ITALY: A Leader in Wine Interview by Kristen Wolfe Bieler ■ Portraits by Andrew Kist The Italian Trade Commission has been promoting their Naturalemente Italiano program for five years now, with great success. We sat down with Trade Commissioner Executive Director for the USA, Aniello Musella, to discuss what the Commission has planned for the present and future of Italian wines in the United States. The Beverage Network: How has the American Musella: Yes. Throughout much of the 1960s and 1970s, opinion of Italian wine changed over the last Italy exported large quantities of inexpensive Lambrusco decade? wines. When looking specifically at still table wines today, Italy remains the leading U.S. supplier, both in Musella: The American consumer’s opinion of Italian terms of value as well as quantity. While we now want to wine has changed as a result of the transformation that focus on higher quality wines, we still want to be a has taken place in the Italian wine industry since the source of value in the American market. 1960s. After the completion of the DOC appellation system, new regulations and new technology (both in TBN: What do you wish Americans understood vinification and vineyard management) made us more about Italian wines that they currently do not? competitive, not only as suppliers of great volumes of wine but also as producers of quality wines. The last Musella: I wish that Americans could better understand twenty years have seen a revolution in winemaking our appellation system. It is broad and complex, so this that has spanned the Italian Peninsula. This transfor- will obviously be a process that needs time to evolve and mation was brought about not only by the govern- which requires a massive communication effort on the ments’ regulation of the industry, but also by the inno- part of the Italian wine industry. I am encouraged, how- vation and entrepreneurial spirit of our most dynamic ever, to see that those who try Italian wines are absolute- wine makers. I believe that over the last decade ly fascinated by the variety of tastes available, and by the American consumers have come to understand this fact that they feel that our wines continue to offer a evolutionary process and have rewarded us by becom- remarkable value for the price. ing our customers. TBN: Italian wine sales in this country remain incredi- TBN: This renaissance in quality is evidenced in bly strong, despite price increases due to the weak the bulk of wines being imported to the American U.S. dollar and competition from many New World market as well, correct? wine countries. Can you explain this phenomenon? Aniello Musella, Italian Trade Commissioner Executive Director for the United States of America at his office in New York City Food & Wine team at the ITC (Clockwise from left): Giovanni Mafodda, Senior Deputy Trade Commissioner, Augusto Marchini, Assistant Trade Commissioner and Aniello Musella However, we must not forget that the vast majority of Americans still do not drink wine. These are the ones that we all should tar- get to promote wine consumption. TBN: Which efforts by the Italian Trade Commission have been most effective in educating consumers and creating interest in Italian products? Musella: The Italian Trade Commission has been active in cam- paigning for Italian wines in the United States for over 40 years. Over this time, our success in creating interest for the wines of Italy at a consumer level has been achieved through educational activi- ties such as: meaningful communication campaigns; advertising in the local medias; informative literature; our website (www.italian- made.com); wine tastings and classes; working with licensees to promote our products at the point of sale; and the organization of countless trade and press trips to Italy. Musella: The latest figures show that in 2005 Italy maintains first place among the major importing countries, above Australia and TBN: Describe the current “Naturalmente Italiano” campaign France. According to end of year information just recently released and the message you are trying to get across to licensees? by the US Department of Commerce, total American imports of Italian wines in December 2005 registered a marked increase in Musella: We have always relied on the trade as the foundation on value of 11.4 percent. I believe that our enormous reservoir of which to build our message. The Naturalmente Italiano campaign is indigenous grape varieties that go beyond the very popular grape currently in its fifth year and has been very successful in finding dis- types (Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet, etc) gives us a tribution for many new producers in this market. Our greatest chal- useful edge over some of our most aggressive competitors. lenge is the complexity and consolidation of the American market. We advise our small vintners to form liaisons and work together to TBN: U.S. per capita consumption remains much lower promote and market their products in this country. This substantial- than European countries. Do you view this as a signifi- ly increases their impact on markets that may already be crowded cant opportunity? with competitors, many of them, from a more solid economic base. There are currently about 70 companies involved in this campaign, Musella: Even though per capita in Italy we still consume much but there have been hundreds involved over the five years that it more wine (49 liters per person in 2004) than the average has been active, as many move on once they find U.S. distribution. American (8 liters per person), our consumption – as is the case in many European countries – is decreasing. Opportunity is in the TBN: Which Italian region are you most excited about that American market and it is our responsibility to promote wine con- retailers and restaurateurs should be paying attention to? sumption as an integral component of a healthy lifestyle. But U.S. consumption is growing at a slow rate which means Musella: Some of the largest newcomers are Sicily and Campania. that everyone in the wine industry is competing to serve that Their wines account for a good portion of the 11 percent increase same small percentage of the general public who drink wine on a that Italian wines experienced in the U.S. market last year. These daily basis. Within this segment of consumers, there is an even regions offer a number of indigenous grape varieties which provide a smaller number that has developed a more sophisticated palate – wide range of choices for the consumer. These vines have ancient those who tend to travel more, to be more educated about wine histories in our soils and they provide something very different from and who are willing to spend more money on wine and food. our competition. ■ ITALY: A Passion for Wine By Mary Ewing Mulligan and Ed McCarthy The local-color television features sur- Castle & winery in Piedmont rounding network coverage of the Winter Olympics in Torino earlier this year brought the sights and sounds and flavors of Italy to millions of Americans. Anyone thinking about planning a vacation, buying a gift of gourmet food, choosing a bottle of wine for dinner or even deciding on a restaurant for the next night out could hardly ignore the suggestion that Italy— and Italy’s foods, wines and other prod- ucts—stands in a class of its own. Not that we Americans needed much vines seem to be growing in every available 2.5 times greater than the wine production reminder of what a wonderful place Italy is, viable acre of land; and in people’s homes— of the entire United States—although the or how appropriate Italy’s foods and wines anywhere in the country—wine is the bev- U.S. is the fourth largest wine producer in are for our own lifestyles. Italy already ranks erage of choice at every meal. the world and the world’s leading non- as one of the top tourist destinations for The statistics regarding Italian wines European wine producer. Italy also leads all Americans, and Italian cuisine is likewise a and their performance in the U.S. have other countries in the amount of wine sup- favorite here. As far as the wines are con- always been compelling. Tiny Italy, three- plied to American wine drinkers. cerned, Italy is the reigning champion on quarters the size of California and only 60 To be fair, France’s wine production is these shores, and has been, for decades. In percent the size of France, produces more also high, and in some years has been equal other words, Americans have a love affair wine than any other country in the world. to Italy’s. But Italy has sustained its presence with Italy. Even though Italy’s wine production has as the leading foreign supplier of wine to the If we Americans love Italy, it’s logical fallen about 20 percent from its highs during U.S. across three decades. Italy currently that we love its wines, because wine is the the 1990s, the country produced 47.5 mil- produces about 22 percent of all the wine in lifeblood of the Italian people. A first trip to lion hectoliters a year (approximately 1.25 the world, and holds a 30 percent share of Italy is always an eye-opening experience: billion gallons) in 2005. That figure is about wine imported to the U.S. Admittedly, in a climate of overproduction—in 2004, the equivalent of 586 million cases of wine went unsold in the world— 2005 TOTAL WINE IMPORTED a large production of wine is a mixed blessing. But the volume of wine production in Italy testifies to the penetration of wine in the TO THE UNITED STATES country’s culture.