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We’re back on the road in California wine country.
JUNE 28, 2021 FEATURES 2 Wine from Windy Places 7 Vibrant in the Valley 4 Paso Robles Power Duo 8 SC Mountains High 6 Monterey Rising 13 Don’t Mention That Movie Extra! Extra! K&L’s Domestic Wine Buyers Go Big! By Ryan Woodhouse
Welcome to this XL edition of Wine News! Fully vaxxed and back on land in Monterey and surrounding areas after our mind-boggling tour the road, Team USA has been scouring wine regions up and down the there earlier this month. Then we’re up into the Santa Cruz Mountains California coast for the latest and greatest finds. And we found such a where I check out some very cool, up-and-coming small producers, as haul, we had to more than triple the size of the newsletter this month! well as some of the region’s iconic stalwarts. Meanwhile, our Domestic Join us on our journey through California’s “windy places” as I explore Department’s SoCal champ, Shelby Griffiths, gives us some great some of the most ocean-influenced, cool-climate, breezy places that insights into present-day Lodi, home to some of the country’s oldest are producing some of the state’s most impressive wines. Next, my vines but also a dynamic culture of grape growing and winemaking. colleague, Kaj Stromer, makes a stop in Paso Robles to check out the And last, but honestly not least, I implore you to take a look at some powerful and ever-intriguing wines of Sans Liege, Field Recordings, and world-class wines made from a much-maligned grape…Merlot—the Groundwork. And, he brings us up to speed with the current lay of the next big thing? Enjoy!
2018 Brave & Maiden “Estate” Santa Ynez 2018 Saintsbury “Sangiacomo Vineyard” 2019 Tatomer Santa Barbara County Pinot Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($24.99) Carneros Chardonnay ($19.95) Elsewhere Noir ($29.95) Wow! Explosive aromatics of Previously $45. This wine was originally $28. A fantastic Chardonnay from one of the crushed flowers, Asian spices, black raspberry, intended for restaurants, but we were region’s best grape-growing families, and liquored cherry, all on a subtle given the option to secure a signifi- crafted by one of the region’s framing of sweet oak tones, make cant cache if we loved it, and we did! stalwart producers. It combines this one of our candidates for Stylistically, this is more reminiscent the classic richness of Sangiacomo wine of the year—already! Juicy of some of the elegant Cabernets Vineyard with a deft touch in the acidity balances the lovely from Sonoma County than their cellar. This wine can easily stand fruit profile, and the texture is bigger Napa Valley cousins. shoulder-to-shoulder with bottles polished and silky for such a There’s plenty of dark berry, selling for twice the price, maybe fresh, young wine. This is just plum, and cocoa on the palate, more. This wine shows perfectly delicious Pinot Noir, that’s all while fresh and lifted acidity ripe fruit, subtle, classy oak, there is to it. The only problem helps the fruit glide across your wonderfully vibrant acidity, and is that the bottle seems to palate. But the tannins remind sea spray salty minerality. 93 JS empty too soon. 95 WE you it’s Cabernet all the way. Cover: Little Lilo Vineyard looks out on Monterey Bay from its perch in the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA.
Key: 93 Critic Score on 100-Point Scale RP Robert Parker Wine Advocate WS Wine Spectator JS James Suckling WE Wine Enthusiast VN Antonio Galloni’s Vinous JD Jeb Dunnuck CG Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wine W&S Wine & Spirits Windy Places at the Edge of a Continent By Ryan Woodhouse
I’ll never forget my first proper visit to the Santa Rita Hills. Our In fact, many of the best growing regions in coastal California share opening visit for the day was at Sandhi and Domaine de la Côte at the these topographical and climatic phenomena. Just to the north of far western end of the appellation (which is officially titled Sta. Rita Sta. Rita Hills, the wide mouth of the Santa Maria Valley similarly Hills for legal reasons of the international wine trade). We drove along channels onshore airflow over famed benchland vineyards such as DOMESTIC a canyon with sheer walls of bright white rock and took a dirt road up Bien Nacido and even more exposed sites such as Solomon Hills and to the top of an escarpment where vines clung to the earth in tightly Presqu’ile. A few hours drive north again and you’ll find the Santa spaced rows trained low to the ground. As we got out of the car, I had Lucia Highlands, where vines cling to the midslopes of the Santa to hold the door handle extra tight so it wasn’t ripped from my hand. Lucia Range that forms the backdrop to the Big Sur coastline, fighting Feeling the air temperature outside, we all reached for a jacket, despite against the howling winds that rip down the Salinas Valley from the the fact that it was mid-August. We stood looking southwest into the Monterey Bay. The deep offshore submarine canyon there fuels some dazzling sun and leaned hard into the constant wind battering us from of the most consistent and powerful onshore winds anywhere on the Pacific Ocean, shrouded in fog on the horizon. The meager canopy the California coast. North of the Golden Gate, in the newly defined on the vines shook in the wind, and the dusty diatomaceous earth Petaluma Gap AVA, this concept of a growing region open to the west, whipped around our feet. It was an eye-opening experience that gave and the powerful influence of the Pacific, became the very basis of the me a real feel for exactly what it was like to grow grapes in this region. appellation. A physical gap in the Coast Range allows ingress of cooler air and winds that make this specific corridor dramatically different than surrounding areas.
Grapes grown in all of these areas share a few things in common: They generally have thicker skins and less juice in the berries; they typically have higher acidity from the diurnal cooling effect of Mother Nature’s powerful air conditioning; they also often experience longer hang times, and thus greater flavor development, as the high winds periodically shut down photosynthesis, delaying the ripening process.
But for now, I’ll stop my relentless flow of (hot) air pontifi- cating about these regions, and share with you a few wines from these places to see what you think!
Sta. Rita Hills 2018 Gainey Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($19.95) Elsewhere $30. One of the best, if not the best deal in Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Bien Nacido vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley. Noir is Gainey’s 2018 bottling. This is the epitome of fresh, bright, easy-drinking Pinot Noir. Packed with spicy, earthy red While Domaine de la Côte’s very exposed, elevated, and far western fruits, silky tannin, lovely fruit purity, location makes it one of the most extreme sites in the appellation, and immaculate balance, this is an the entire region is defined by the fact that it’s a west-to-east running absolute steal. 93 VN valley where transverse mountain ranges funnel cold ocean air inland, generating a near-continuous onshore flow during the spring and 2017 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills summer seasons. The vines here are “trained” by the wind, the canopy Pinot Noir ($29.95) Always a go-to and fruit under near-constant assault from the gusts. It reminds me of for a more fruit-intense expression back home in southwestern England, where ancient trees grow leaning of Sta. Rita Hills, the 2017 from toward the northeast, bent by the strong and unrelenting southwest- Brewer-Clifton is right on the money erly winds that batter the coast. In the Sta. Rita Hills, canopy growth is with lashings of bold red fruits, stunted by the wind, yields are limited by wind during flowering, and macerated cherry, ripe strawberry, grape clusters and berries grow smaller and thicker-skinned because and baking spice. Lush and rich, but of the wind. The wind is perhaps the most defining characteristic of with lovely freshness and lift to the the region; and Sta. Rita Hills is far from alone in that regard. finish.94 WE
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(Continued on page 4) Above Sanford & Benedict. The WE , 93+ RP
WE 93 RP, 96 VN, 94 93 VN, 93 JD, 93JD, VN, 93 93 Get complete tasting notes at KLWines.com at notes tasting Get complete Another rocking value , 93 WE W&S 2017 Au Bon Climat Au 2017 “Nuits-Blanches Bouge” au Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay ($39.95) crème de la crème Chardonnay of from the late, great Jim Clendenen. Last month many folks in the wine industry and beyond crushed were the by sudden passing this of iconic vigneron. This bottling is the perfect pure example genius. Jim’s of A best barrel selection from Bien Nacido and Le Bon Climat, the wine shows both the power and precision Santa Maria can deliver, with intensity huge flavor of and impact theon palate and yet pin-point focus and linear intensity. World-class. Scar2019 the of Sea “Vino de los Ranchos” Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($24.95) in contemporary, fresh, vibrant Pinot Noir that really shows its cool climate, growing maritime-influenced conditions, this is sourced from the historic Rancho Sisquoc Vineyard and “Grand Cru” site, Bien Nacido. Lots brambly of fruit, forest floor, and distinctly wild notes that Santa Maria is known make for this a stunning bottle Pinot of the for price. 93 Santa Maria Valley “Bien Nacido Foxen Vineyard2018 Block UU” Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay ($26.95) A perennial favorite mine,of this comes from a parcel vines of that was originally Riesling and has now Chardonnay grafted Santa top. on Maria’s almost constant ocean breezes make a complex, for mineral-intense, layered wine with tons intrigue. of The NorthernThe
Not to beNot out W&S wind that funnels through the valley is an , 94 JD, 94 WE done by the by done incredible Pinot Noirs fromthe region,Sta. Rita Hills is also tophenomenal home Chardonnays, perhaps asnone special as those made from these vines old planted Sanford at in 1971 & Benedict. Several folks make wine from the precious few tons this of fruit; Arnot-Roberts’ I love light touch that gently issues forth a wonderfully transparent and elegant expression of this renowned site. 96 VN 2019 Sandhi2019 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($34.99) Arnot-Roberts2019 “Sanford & Benedict Vineyard” Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay ($54.95) Rhône is famed its for Syrah. Many growers there believe the cool mistral important factor in the quality the of wines. No surprise then that Syrah also excels in the Sta. Rita Hills. Melville’s estate bottling is the of one finest examples and is packed with the quintessential black fruits, cracked smoked pepper, meat, and savory spice that lovers this of varietal crave. 95 With fruit that’s than more 80% from the Domaine de la Côte estate, Sandhi’s Sta. Rita Hills bottling is the of one best deals in the region. Fermented 30% whole cluster and aged in neutral oak, this wine really shows the vibrancy, brightness, and liftget you from Pinot Noir grown here. Crunchy wild berries, lots mineral of tones, bramble leaf, and spiced citrus peel. 2018 Melville2018 “Estate” Sta. Rita Hills Syrah ($34.95) The Paso Robles Power Duo By Kaj Stromer
It’s becoming ever more apparent to me that we are seeing a greater Liege wines, based in Paso Robles. The Sans Liege wines carry the batch than ever of locally produced value wines. Though, calling pedigree and gravitas of world-class bottlings while the Groundwork them “value wines” may be a misnomer, as they’re simply great wines express a level of casual comfort.
DOMESTIC wines that also represent tremendous value. It’s always up to the next generation to innovate and energize, so here we are featuring a If you’re ever visiting Paso pair of innovators. They each have their own solo project as well as a Robles, I strongly urge shared piece of a combined project. These mavericks are taking vines you to stop at Tin City and and wines in totally new and creative directions. They’re looking for visit both of these local untapped potential both in the vineyard and in how they configure legends. their operations. Groundwork Andrew Jones and Curt 2020 Goundwork Paso Schlachlin are two rising Robles Rosé of Grenache stars of the Central Coast ($14.99) It’s firmly rosé season, and will be for a few months to come. wine scene. Their wines This has become my “go to” rose. It’s exactly what have become some of my you’d expect from a thirst-slaking style. There’s favorites, and based on plenty of fresh strawberries and juicy watermelon our sales, are clearly client here with a just a gentle squirt of citrus to frame favorites as well. Andrew the wine and give it lift. This is complex enough to is the man at Field stimulate your every sip while still being easygoing Recordings and Curt is Sans Leige. They pool their resources to make and laid-back. It’s 100% tank fermented, which Groundwork. Together they strive to create unique wines loaded with means it retains a crisp and lively juiciness. It personality and a one-of-a kind experience. weighs in at a pleasantly low 12% alcohol and at $14.99 it goes easy on the wallet. I recommend These guys have an uncanny knack for seeking out the best off-the- you put a case away in your pantry now, as not beaten path vineyards. That comes as no surprise, as Andrew is also much was made. Enjoy a bottle every weekend a viticulturalist and sells budwood to other wineries. He’s got a keen with family and friends. This will be my eye for finding sites that are relatively unknown or under-appreciated summer fling. and coaxing the best out of their untapped potential. Curt is the winemaker-mastermind behind both the Groundwork and Sans (Continued on page 5)
Windy Places (Continued from page 3) Petaluma Gap with his wife, Emily, they have embarked on their own project, 2018 Keller “El Coro Vineyard” Petaluma Gap Desire Lines. We’ve carried these wines from the Pinot Noir ($29.95) Elsewhere $60. One of the outset and have been wildly impressed. The Winds founding wineries of the new Petaluma Gap AVA, of Change bottling basically echoes what I have been Keller Estate has some of the best vineyards in writing about in this article, taking grapes from cool, the region. El Coro is a hilltop parcel of vines windy places in California and crafting wines from exposed to the full force of those westerly them. Much of this wine is from the very highly breezes. As a result the wine is focused and regarded Griffin’s Lair Vineyard just outside spicy, with brambly red fruits, garrigue, dusty of Petaluma. There are also dashes of fruit earth, and leaf litter. Working winery-direct, from 1880s Mourvèdre and Grenache vines in we can offer the very best pricing on this wine, Oakley, and ancient Carignane from Evangelho making it one of the best sub-$30 Pinot deals planted in the 1890s. The wine is just seamless, in the store. 93 WE, 92 RP showing wonderful saturation on the palate, but no lack of vibrancy. The blend is Syrah (73%), 2019 Desire Lines “Winds of Change” Mourvèdre (10%), Carignan (8%), Grenache California Red Blend ($24.95) Cody (6%), and Petite Sirah (3%). Rasmussen’s “day job” is as assistant winemaker at Bedrock Wine Co. Together
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The The Offering Curt Schlachlin Kaj Stromer hosts at Sans K&L’s Liege. As Curt says, am “I free to make the wine choosing my of Check out more staff product reviews at KLWines.com at product staff reviews more out Check Sans Liege Sans Sans2019 Liege “Côtes Coast” du Central Coast White Blend ($23.99) because Thatmentality I follow one.” no lets him create the shape and outcome all of his wines, though I guess the grapes are the real bosses. This whiteplaysblend loose homage to legendary the white wines theof Rhône. Viognier, of A blend Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, and Clairette. The fruit is sourced from lofty some addresses along the coast including Bien Nacido, White Hawk, and Alta Colina. Once poured, smell you the honeysuckle and lilac with white strawberries, vanilla bean, melon, lime zest, and guava. Who wantdoesn’t that? I know I do. Sans 2018 Liege “The Offering” Santa Barbara County Rhône Blend ($26.95) is thestandard bearer Curt. for he Here balances a reverence the for traditions theof Rhône Valley with the freedom makingof wine in California’s Central Coast. vintage The 2018 39%is Grenache, Syrah,36% and Mourvèdre. 25% With a nod to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Curt ably pulls this off. one wonderno It’s that his wines are so popular around here.
Andrew Jones lines up’em at Groundwork. Andrew Jones, I never thought that a Ramato-style Pinot Gris would become top selling my of one wines. I first tastedat it the winery a monthscouple back while visiting with all Andrew. If you’re about the “orange” wine movement, this isyou, for though seems it to me that just about everyone loves it. The fruit is sourced from vineyards in Paso Robles, Santa Barbara County, and Edna The Valley. wine is fermented its on skins, which gives rosé a lovely it and hue a more textural mouthfeel. This is a white wine that drinks likered. a 2020 Field Recordings “Domo Arigato Ramato”Mr. Central Coast ($19.99) Field Recordings Recordings Field Field Recordings2018 “Wonderwall” Central Coast Syrah ($18.99) who began his wine journey as a nursery vine has grower, stepped foot in nearly all the vineyards the on Central Coast of California. All his vineyard expertise is translated into his bottled wine, Field Recordings and Wonderwall. This classic coastal Syrah is full-bodied, with savory notes tapenade of and roasted meat, balanced plum by fruit and a seasoning of white pepper. This should be a perfect back yard grilling wine. Paso Power (Continued from page 4) SECTION HEADERDOMESTIC 6 Stromer By Kaj Brand Ian of Wines the and Monterey Rising bombs of the past, here is your chance to taste unadorned Chardonnay Chardonnay unadorned taste to chance your is here past, of the bombs butter the away have moved from tastes your If Chablis. entry-level an ($14.95) Chardonnay County Monterey “Jack’s Hill” Paysan 2018 P’tit Le years. afew quite in experiences eye-opening one of my biggest it was that say Ican us. it took wherever of conversation thread the followed and lineup the through extensively we tasted facility, of the tour brief a After winery. at his Ian up with catch to chance the had We recently of quality. pursuit the and farming organic to committed being while $25 for under of place wines distinctive make to possible still it is that He us shows Brand. I. and Marea, La Paysan, P’tit labels—Le three behind mastermind the is Brand the Year” by of the “Winemaker Named up.” blown completely hasn’t been that of California region coastal major last the “Monterey is it, puts Ian As County). Benito San neighboring of areas viticultural the including (often area Monterey the from wines in best out the bringing to careers their have dedicated who winemakers key one of several is Brand Ian Brand. of Ian we think lately and wine; of great we think of County, Monterey however, we think when Merchants, Wine K&L at Here Eastwood. or Clint Nicklaus, Jack Miller, Henry like names of iconic Garner; by Erroll asong or even of whales, songs the two, or festival amusic perhaps Carmel-by-the-Sea; and Pebble Beach, Sur, Big cliffs; onto seaside hanging trees cypress gnarled and waves of crashing word “Monterey,” the think you hear When you likely San Francisco Chronicle Francisco San Bonny Doon, Chalone, and dozens more Monterey wines at KLWines.com The Jack’s Hill Chardonnay is a dead ringer for ringer dead is a Chardonnay Hill The Jack’s $20. Elsewhere in 2018, 2018, in Ian Brand talks with K&L’s with talks Brand Ian Not all sea and surf: the Enz vineyard holds its ground in the Lime Kiln Valley AVA, just east of Monterey County. AVA, Kiln Valley Monterey Lime of the in east ground its just holds vineyard Enz the surf: and sea all Not team during a2018 visit. during team more here than meets the pocketbook. pocketbook. the meets more than here there’s that taster the inform herbs and violets, fruit, of black amounts But copious Cab. night Tuesday standard your just was this you assumed You’d if forgiven be silk. as smooth yet complex, deep, is that wine is a result The old vines. 45-year- from sourced is price at this Cabernet a that learn to You’d surprised be Cabernet. pedigreed unmistakably still it is Sauvignon, Cabernet “un” Valley Napa an be might ($19.99)Sauvignon Cabernet County Benito San Vine” “Old Paysan P’tit 2019 Le 93 price. friendlier even and character delicious flat-out of its on account for more back you coming keeps that red simple everyday perfect the is This finish. on the of herbs atouch pepper, with and of smoke notes fruit, red bright with balanced It’s quite drinking. uncomplicated and for easy blend made du-Rhône me of aCôtes- It reminds Ian. from wine best-selling our hands-down ($14.99) Blend Red County Benito San Pape” P’tit “Le Paysan 2017 P’tit Le a must-buy. this of $15makes low tariff but the price, the twice at like for There’s more. to here back plenty coming keep to taster the encourages which of restraint, ahint with yet glass, the fill flavors fruit andapple pear The fruit. WE 90 90 WE While this This is
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Single-variety
95 years!95 I particularly like fuses it how the dark, brooding saddle leather and earth with the right amount West of Coast fruit. A “Bandol” red,kissed theby California sun! finish.wonderno It’s this has becomeourof one of best sellers. I. Brand2019 & Family “Enz Vineyard Old Vine” Lime Kiln Valley Mourvèdre ($39.95) bottlings Mourvèdre of in the are US quite rare, making this gem all the noteworthy.more More commonly associated with Spain (Monastrell) and the French region Bandol, of known where it’s for its brooding power and earthy flavors, the grape has yet to findits footing in the US. Ian sources the fruit from the esteemed Enz vineyard located in inthe remote Lime Kiln Valley AVA the Gabilan Mountains. His keen sense pedigree for led him here to an exceptional discovery. Enz is a planting where the vine age exceeds 2020 Rio Monte CellarsLodi Sauvignon Sourced Blanc ($19.99) from 30-year-old vines deep in the heart Lodi, of this fresh, electri fying grapefruit expression Sauvignon of Blanc will turn heads and be the star any of summer outdoor bash. Decorated sommelier- turned-winemaker Patrick Cappielloand his business partner, cult winemaker Pax Mahle, are all about “the spirit California” old of Rio Monte at Cellars. A low-intervention return to an style old of California wine, when lower-alcohol wines the were norm. Haarmeyer2019 “St. Rey SRV” Clarksburg Chenin Blanc ($16.99) Deep in the Sacramento River Delta lies Clarksburg, where the strong Delta breeze sweeps through the vineyards and coolmarine air mingles with the vines. here that It’s Sacramento native Craig Haarmeyer hasbeen promoting his “Sacramento terroir” through movement his eye-opening single-vineyard bottlings Chenin of Blanc. In an area that’s oftenoverlooked, Craig celebrates richthe history region’s with the variety, and captures the terroir in this bottling with notes of crunchy yellow apples, minerally oyster shells, and lanolin. The balanceof savoriness in this wine makes a perfect match a weeknight for cheese plate those on warm summer nights you feel likedon’t cooking. From Alicante Bouschet to Zinfandel, discover the Valley’s old-vine reds at KLWines.com at reds old-vine Valley’s the discover Zinfandel, to Bouschet Alicante From Cabernet Franc can exist in two styles; the The traditionally Spanish white Elsewhere $30. Craig Haarmeyer draws a barrel sample in his Sacramento West winery. Vibrant in the Valley: Classic California Varietal Whites California Varietal Classic inVibrant the Valley: ShelbyBy Griffiths 2019 La2019 Marea “Kristy Vineyard” Monterey County Albariño ($19.95) grape Albariño has been the Galician “it” wine for decades. Its savory salinity and cool and juicy flavors make a favorite it seafood of lovers around the world. The cooling maritime influence thatpours over western Spain’s flankworks much the same way here. Theresult is a wine with crisp minerality, hints citrus, of and bright fruit. Millions years of ago, this region was a shallow ocean bed. Now the area is replete with deposits limestone of which give the wine lift and intensity. The La Marea line wines of homage to the is Ian’s best of Spain. I. Brand2018 & Family “Bayly Ranch” California Cabernet Franc ($19.99) elegantmore central Loire style the or muscular more style found in Bordeaux. The Bayly Ranch CabFranc nod a more is towards the Loire Valley reds Chinon, of Saumur, and Bourgueil. notes Tobacco and plums frame the nose. The wine mediumis weight of more and an styleOld World that beguileswith you an ethereal expression the of grape.plenty brightof There’s berries, mild spice, long a and savory When I am asked what region in the am world I excited about winefor I am right oftenmet now, with shock when I reply with enthusiasmmy California’swarm for Centrallarge, Valley. This viticultural area has been long known producing for high-volume, easy-going blends. While this association holds some truth, the Valley isalso a hotbed heritage of vineyards and rare grape varieties that are deeply rooted in the winemaking state’s history. This treasure trove vinesof has been catching the attention many of small, independent producers who are flocking to region the producing and exciting, high-quality, and affordable wines from these viticulturalgems. In the spiritsummer, of here are a few varietal white wines that recently have caught attention my and should catch yours as well. SECTION HEADERDOMESTIC 8 above feet 2,500 some mountains of the line ridge the follows that road ameandering Skyline, we hit 9until on Highway redwoods the into one. up a memorable was We headed day the of visit first Our home. hills these call who of producers variety remarkable the and region of the diversity the show him would that itinerary an put to together Iwanted so before, here much time spent hadn’t Kaj Stromer. Kaj colleague, my SoCal (SCM) with Mountains Cruz Santa of the out on atour headed Irecently removed, being restrictions many with and vaccinated, Now fully laurels. on their of resting instead toes on their old guard the keeping and limits upper the pushing winemakers and of farmers generation anew with better, and better getting they’re And country. the in wines compelling most the some of have long produced Mountains Cruz Santa The points. these on both Antonio more with agree Icouldn’t admit I must place.” of speak that reds and whites fine for regions preeminent world’s the of one is Mountains Cruz Santa the that believed long Ihave decade… past the over time any at than year this Mountains Cruz Santa the from wines exceptional truly more “I tasted beauty.” singular of wines yields often so that struggle that precisely is it But elements. the against astruggle tion defini own its by is viticulture States…Mountain United the in regions fascinating most the of one remains Mountains Cruz Santa “The Galloni: Antonio critic wine famed from of acouple quotes with article this start I’ll By Ryan Woodhouse The Past, Present and Future of Santa the Cruz Mountains We offer a Personalat Sommelier Service KLWines.com - belief recently reinforced by some huge by some reinforced recently belief a region, the in wines best of the some making they’re Ithink again, say will And I buddy, Thomas. his Cole with Madson is duo that the of part also is Ken pages. these in before about Ihave written that producer young asmall, Wines, Madson were from Two wines of the acidity. vibrant lovely and again, and fruit, concentrated naturally intriguing, savory bois sous an having reds the line, acid a keen with whites the freshness: and tension of beautiful athread had All winemakers. by different but were made Ascona, from came all that of wines selection a beautiful through tasted and vines the overlooking we stood stroll, informative a highly After light. morning early the in rows the we walked as palpable was vines the to connection his and around, farmers best one of the as region the in folks many to He’s known appellation. entire the across vineyards small of dozens after looks that acompany Viticulture, Rhizos runs Ken vines. the farm and property on the Abbey, live and Ken hosts, Our varieties. of grape anumber to planted aspects and tions undula many with forest by dense surrounded planting fascinating a vineyard, Ascona the destination, our We reached soon ocean. the note that worked well with the powerful, powerful, the with well worked that note critics’ scores. critics’ Morning light at Ascona vineyard. Ascona at light Morning Santa Cruz Mountains Mountains Santa Cruz sandstone at Ascona. sandstone - SPIRITSDOMESTIC 9
The Arnot- Early morning walk at Ascona with Ken Swegles. A very small three-barrel 2019 Arnot-Roberts2019 Gulch” “Trout Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay ($44.95) Roberts style works perfectly with Gulch fruit. Trout The concentration of produces Wente clone this old flavorful wines while retaining great acidity. Thenose is floralwith a whiff of citrus oil and fern. The palate is fullof stony minerals and baked bread lees notes. Piercing, focused acidity theon finish with incredible persistence. 96 VN Farm2019 Cottage Gulch “Trout Vineyard” Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir ($39.95) production from Ryan Alfaro. This might inaugural be Ryan’s release under the Farm Cottage label, but his father has been farming this vineyard than more for a decade and Ryan has experience working with the fruit under his family’s eponymous label.Farm The Cottage Pinot is a stunning expression of this vineyard. Mount Eden Clone planted in 1980, fermented entirely whole cluster. The wine is light and translucent in the glass, the nose explosive with potpourri, exotic spiced berries, ripe raspberry, redwood grove, and warm earth. Vibrant, and so silky the on palate. This is a stylelove, I perfectly executed. Hundreds of vintage Cabs up for auction now at KLWines.com at auction now for up Cabs vintage of Hundreds WE Ryan Alfaro Top-notch SyrahTop-notch can you WE 96 A stunning bottle SCM of Pinot Wonderfully Noir. uses a light touch here. A stainless steel ferment and aging in neutral oak preserves signature the site’s ocean breeze salinity and mouthwatering acidity. Bright, vibrant, and delicious. Leaving Ascona Vineyard behind, descendedwe from 2,400 feet almost to sea level in the town Santa of Cruz before heading into up the mountains again coastal (the side the of range this time) to visit the renowned Gulch Trout vineyard nestled in the hills above Aptos. Our host was Ryan Alfaro, winemaker Alfaro at Family Vineyards, which was founded hisby father Richard Along with in 1997. their estate home near the hamlet Corralitos, of the Alfaros recently Gulch, bought Trout a vineyard they had been farming than more for a decade prior. that a trueNow it’s estate property, pride was Ryan’s plain to see as walkedhe us around the blocks mature, of Pinot Noir 41-year-old and Chardonnay. The closeproximity to the ocean and persistent morning means fog this is a very cool site and fruit often hangs until late October. The vines are farmedorganically and without irrigation. Beyond the fruit Alfaro keeps the for winery, the prizedgrapes from this site are pledged (by handshake agreements) to top producers Ceritas, Arnot-Roberts, and Kutch. Ryan, making now the wines his for family’s winery, also recently launched a fledglingbrand of hisown, Farm Cottage, with the inaugural release Gulch being Pinot. a Trout So, with a simple trestle table in up put the vineyard, and the bottles chilled down self-converted in Ryan’s camper vanfridge, treated were we to some wines. Alfaro2019 Gulch “Trout Vineyard” Santa Cruz ($24.95) Chardonnay Mountains run against up challengers from anywhere. Classic aromas and flavorsof lilac smoky and lavender, berries, cracked allspice, pepper, cured meat, and fried sage. The wine haslots of savory stemmy made 100% they’re wholebut cluster) innotes (it’s perfect union with the core fruit of and really work well. already It’s drinking beautifully, I imaginebut will it grow in breadth and depth with years more in bottle. World-class Syrah. 2019 Madson “Ascona Vineyard” Madson2019 “Ascona Santa Cruz Mountains Syrah ($29.95) focused fruits theof forest, small black and red berries, leaf litter, bramble, turned earth. Brightacidity that is beautifully laced through the perfectly ripe fruit. An ethereal texture the on palate flavors but on thatgo on. and 96 2019 Madson “Ascona Vineyard” Madson2019 “Ascona Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir ($49.95) 2019 Assiduous “Bald Mountain Vineyard” Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay ($24.95) A phenomenal bottle of Chardonnay from one of my favorite vineyards in the region, Ryan Beauregard’s Bald Mountain. This older DOMESTIC planting of Chardonnay, in the western edge of the mountains near Bonny Doon, grows in a unique white sand soil made from ancient sea floor. The wines from here all share a piercing minerality and persistence on the palate. Keegan’s expression deftly balances a nice, almost exotic ripeness, with good mid-palate density and lovely noisette quality along with the trademark minerality and focused acidity through the finish.
The difference? K&L’s wine buyers take the less traveled road.
Our next stop was just a few minutes away (via a mildly intimi- dating dirt road) on an adjacent spine of land looking out to the Monterey Bay. We met with Keegan Mayo of Assiduous Wines to check out a tiny but high-caliber vineyard called Lilo. One of the most picturesque vineyards you’re ever likely to see, this little parcel of vines is surrounded by stands of coast redwoods with a clear line of sight out to the glistening Pacific and on to the Big Sur coastline in the distance. Sadly, Keegan’s own bottling from Lilo is all but sold out. However, he brought the rest of his stellar SCM releases for us to try. The Assiduous wines are a perfect example of how non-interventionist, or so-called “hands-off” winemaking is actually very much hands-on! With a guiding principle of less is more when it comes to manipulative winemaking, Keegan is essentially making natural wines, but is not dogmatic about the process and not entirely comfortable with the label. His assiduous work in the vineyard and cellar means the wines are remarkably clean, pure and precise, traits not always found in this genre of wine. 2020 Assiduous Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Gris ($17.95) The prior vintage of this wine helped put Keegan on many people’s radar when Esther Mobley of the San Francisco Chronicle wrote it up as one of her “Wine of the Week” selections. Predominantly from the Regan vineyard, which Keegan picks early and uses a little extended skin contact to build texture and complexity (but without making this a full-blown orange wine), the 2020 vintage is very crisp, with a keen acid line and plenty of salinity on the finish. Great for shellfish or any manner of seafood. Assiduous winemaker, Keegan Mayo.
10 Discover Oregon Pinot Noir under $30 at KLWines.com DOMESTIC 11
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vintageThe 2017 produced profound 94 VN, 93 WE finish I up figured,To the day, tourwhat ofthe would SCM be complete without seeing the crown jewel, Ridge Bello? Monte Senior vice president of vineyard operations Ridge for Vineyards, David Gates, graciously hours a couple gave his of time us to show a few parcels the of “first growth” site, including brand-new some blocks being planted the at very the top of hill. also were We invited to delve into the underground cellar the at winery, old dug into the limestone tion to this place is undeniable, and strives he historic theto uphold site’s significance. Our visit was arranged Alex by Krause Birichino, of which has been long a staple our of SCM portfolio. Recently theyoffered were a small parcelof Peter Martin Ray Cabernet and jumped the at chance. Birichino also now makes a Chardonnay from this heralded site. After a somewhat awe-inspiring tour the of vineyard stood we and tasted the most recent releases amidst the beautiful vines rustling in the breeze. Birichino2019 Martin “Peter Ray Vineyard” Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay ($54.95) Coming from 1982-planted vines Chassagne- of Montrachet lineage, this wine has incredible phenolic density and presence the on palate. Golden orchard fruit, quince, baked pear, piquant acidity, and mineral tinges. Subtle nutty oak frames the wine and adds a spicy nuance without distracting. moreish A savory, acidity lingers a wine long. It’s will you back go to time and time again and findnuances more unfolding. Birichino2017 Martin “Peter Ray Vineyard” Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($74.95) wines in this neighborhood, wines power of and longevity. Aromas violet of pastilles and blackcurrant cordial lead the way with a panoply and blue of purple berry fruits. Savory nuances are woven throughout— unsmoked cigar, cedar chest, dusty earth. Fine noble but tannin, beautifully integrated subtle oak, and spirited acidity that gives a wonderful sense energy of and vitality. Writing in Vinous, critic Josh Raynolds said theof wine: “Seamless, focused, lithe and distinctly school old in character, in the best finishingway, impressively long and spicy.” This vineyard, immediately adjacentMount to Eden Estate, consists old,of head-trainedvines growing the of out red-tinged, iron-rich Franciscanshale soils. The vines are direct descendantsPaulof originalMasson’s plantings here, distinct a lineage from any other in “clones” California. shown were around We the vineyard Frédéricby Ballario, a Champagne native lives who now the on mountain and is the full-time caretaker the of vines. His connec Did we forget to mention Finger Lakes? Find refreshing Riesling at KLWines.com at Riesling refreshing Find Lakes? Finger mention to forget we Did
Vineyard manager, Frédéric Ballario, at Peter Martin Ray. Next stop was back the on over San Francisco Bay side the of mountains in the famed “Chaine “Golden or Chain,” d’Or,” as early vintners dubbed the ridge peaks of that run along the eastern edge the of Santa Cruz Mountains from Los Gatos in the south to inWoodside the north. privileged were We enough to be able to walk the historic Peter Martin Ray vineyard high above Saratoga. 2019 Assiduous2019 “Bates Ranch” Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon ($29.95) When I heard Keegan had managed to get his hands some on highly sought-after Bates Ranch fruit I was excited to taste the result. And was it worth the wait! Theiconic vineyard, set highon the Hecker Pass the at southern the end of AVA, has produced some the of finest longest- and lived Cabernet in the region. gentle Keegan’s attentivebut hand in the cellar has resulted in a wonderfully pure and varietally correct wine bursting with black and red currants, briary tones, singed cedar, cigar box, and dried herbs. Keegan spoke this how of wine is made of up 50% vine old along plantings with (1972) younger vines, which feels he gives the perfect combination bold of fruit, powerful structure, and savory umami qualities. I couldn’t agree more! vineyards, growers, and winemakers across the region—it’s quite obvious that neither David, nor Ridge Vineyards in general, take their position at the literal and qualitative peak of the SCM for granted. They’re still very much looking at their peers and new generations of vignerons to keep their finger on the pulse and their wines at the forefront. From what I can see (and taste), the future of this place is set to be just as impressive as its past. DOMESTIC
bedrock with hand-stacked barrels floor to ceiling. It was quite surreal. Associate winemaker Shun Ishikubo appeared with a freshly drawn tank sample of the newly assembled blend for 2019 Monte Bello set for bottling in the coming months (it’s stunning), and we even got to taste some of the individual barrel components that will become 2020 Monte Bello (also beautiful and seemingly free from any notice- able smoke issues from the devastating fires that plagued much of the region last summer). Kaj and I could hardly wipe the grins off our faces as next we sat down to taste all the current release wines, with a few library bottles thrown in for good measure. I was in awe of David’s intimate knowledge of the vines and wines. His 32 years with Ridge mean he’s likely forgotten more about growing grapes here than most will ever know, and yet I was struck by his continued drive to improve and innovate. He was highly knowledgeable about so many other
Underground cellar at Ridge Monte Bello.
We tasted too many wines to list, but here are a few highlights we have available:
2019 Ridge Vineyards “Estate” Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay ($49.95) Speaking of constant fine tuning and not resting on their laurels, one of the most dramatically different wines in Ridge’s portfolio today versus a decade ago is the estate Chard. Grown on Monte Bello vineyard, this wine has become progressively more restrained and focused, with a deliberate dialing back of ripeness and new oak usage. It’s still a powerful, flavorful wine, but the crystalline core of acidity and minimal oak impact really allows the quality and vitality of the fruit to shine through. 94 JS
(Continued on back page) Barrel tasting 2020 Monte Bello at Ridge Vineyards with David Gates.
12 From new releases to collector’s vintages, find more Ridge Vineyards at KLWines.com DOMESTIC 13
, WE 96 JS, 94 JD 95 VN,95 94 JS, WE 94 A stalwart Napa Merlot, of One the of most famed and critically 94 RP Leonetti2018 Walla Walla Valley Merlot ($89.95) acclaimed producers Merlot in the New Leonetti’sWorld. monstrous and age-worthy Merlots are known across the globe, and for good reason. 100% in Merlot a full-throttle style with lashings blackberry, of cassis, dark chocolate, baking spice, and stone. hot Drink this the over or now next ten years of one for the most explosive expressions the of variety theon planet. wine conveys its mountain terroir just as convincingly asthe Cabernet; savory soil notes, dried herbs, cedar, and cigar box. Robust red to black fruits swell with time in the glass: ripe red currant, blackberry, anddark cherry. Nice dusty spices and floral tones also emerge.property’s The formidable structure is present, the but tannins here are softer approachablemore and than its stable mate. Rack lamb— of yes please! Duckhorn2018 Napa Valley Merlot ($44.95) Duckhorn has championed long this varietal even over Cabernet Sauvignon. With some the of best plantings and up down the valley, this bottle is a consistent and me go-to for never disappoints. In fact, I oftenprefer the regular Napa Valley bottling the over more expensive Three Palms vineyard designate. Larkmead2016 “Firebelle” Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend ($94.95) Elsewhere $150. While technically not a varietal Merlot, at 67%, clearly that grape is in the driver’s seat here. Larkmead’s estate is a highly parcellated planting where vines are intricately matched with the different seamsof soil that traverse the property. This is a wine that can match any Cabernet in the valley intensity, and power, for structure. The rich, decadent,mouth-filling texture is bridled some by serious tannin and wonderfully exotic oak. Red to black fruit mingles with loamy earth notes and woodsy spices. Lush mid-palate texture with tons layers. of Nice grip in the finish—decant anfor hour if drinking before 2026. 96 JS, 95 Vintage Cheval Blanc for cellaring or KLWines.com cellaring at for burger-pairing Blanc Cheval Vintage Movie
- WE Famed their for immortal Cabernet WE 2016 Mayacamas2016 Merlot Mount Veeder ($59.95) Sauvignon capable going of five decades in the cellar, Mayacamas also produces some of the fineston Merlot planet(and the it comes in less at than half the price their of This Cab). 2016 Whitehall2016 Lane Napa Valley Whitehall ($21.95) Merlot Lane is perfectly located just off Highway128 in Rutherford. This family-owned- and-operated property quietly and consistently puts stellar out qualitywines, and is Merlot one theirof strong suits. Beautiful plummy fruit, red currant, cacao nib, dusty earth, and subtle tobacco notes. Incredible value. 91 Columbia 41 No L’Ecole 2017 One my of Valley ($21.95) Merlot favorite producers in Washington, consistently out puts L’Ecole excellent wines inspired by traditional Bordeaux flavors.Powerful briary fruit, black and red berries, leather, spice. Medium to full-bodied, this drinks well above its modestprice point. Sub this in a $50 for Cab next time steak have you the on grill and see just can Merlot how deliver. 92 I am course of speaking the of much-maligned grape variety, Merlot. tions and judge the wines they how for express themselves in the glass. In recent years, told, I’m andmore acres more this of dark horse grape are being planted across California, and top producers are fightingget to their handson quality sources it.of Great examples this of variety are generally accessiblemore than their Cabernet Sauvignon counterparts, yet can stand just up as well to extended aging in the cellar. There’s a (andgrape you There’s all its know name) that many people obscure,cool, not not hate to and it’s love hate love. It’s to is nor mysterious. it found the at It’s core some of the of finest most and collectable wines the on planet, and yet theybear don’t its name. Along with Riesling, this grape has been “coming back” “the or next big thing” as for as long I can remember…but is probably neither. I’d likeHowever, to list a few the of finest varietal examplesof this grape here and ask to set you aside all preconcep Don’t Even Mention That Mention Even Don’t Woodhouse Ryan By One last look at the Peter Martin Ray vineyard in the Santa Cruz Mountains before we head back to the shop.
Santa Cruz Mountains (Continued from page 12) 2019 Ridge Vineyards “East Bench” Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($29.95) Ridge’s East Bench Zin can often 2018 Ridge Vineyards “Estate” Santa Cruz be overshadowed by the grandeur and spectacle of Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon ($59.95) I’ve said Geyserville and Lytton Springs, which typically get it before and I’ll say it again, this probably represents higher scores. However, I tasted this wine during the best value bottle of Cabernet one can buy in Ridge’s online, virtual release party, and was quite California. Entirely grown at Monte Bello, farmed smitten. After tasting it again at the winery, I’m the same, and handled the same at harvest, convinced this vintage is every bit as impressive as the wine is set on its own path after a series of the more famous, and expensive, flagship bottlings. rigorous tastings where the 75–100 individual Remarkably silky and elegant, the wine abounds in ferments that come off the property are assessed. rich, ripe fruit. But the palate is so pure, vibrant, and The wines with more structure are given extended polished. The ultimate burger wine and a bargain to maceration and earmarked for Monte Bello. The boot. 94 JS more accessible, fruit-forward lots are selected for the estate Cabernet. This is quite literally baby Monte Bello for a fraction of the price. 94 JS
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