Touching the sky: lookouts of the

Miner’s Ridge Lookout & photo by Ethan D’Onofrio story by John D’Onofrio

I met Fred T. Darvill twice. the Himalayas, the Andes, the Alaska Range, etc.—in his opinion Fred was a champion of the North Cascades, the author of the most beautiful aerie he had ever been to was right there at Park the Sierra Club’s “Little Blue” book, Hiking the North Cascades Butte. Then he hedged: Maybe the Hidden Lake Peak Lookout (published way back in 1982), a seminal guide to these stupendous above the Cascade River was even better. Regardless of the waffling, mountains. I’ve had Darvill’s book so long, the printing has worn his point was taken: the lookouts of the North Cascades were set off the cover. Fred was a long-time advocate for wild lands—he was among the most beautiful places on Earth. We said our goodbyes instrumental in the creation of North Cascades National Park in and he went down the mountain, leaving me to my reverie. 1968, an effort that included personally (and successfully) lobbying The second time I met Fred was many years later. I was again President Lynden Johnson in a famous face-to-face meeting at the climbing the precipitous trail to Park Butte, this time with a friend. White House. And he was also a one-man preservation force dedi- We were hoping to spend the night in the lookout cabin. It was cated to saving the smattering of historic lookout cabins sprinkled October and bitterly cold with a sharp-edged wind and hoar ice lac- strategically around the range. Virtually all of these were slated to be ing the high meadows. It smelled like . We reached the cabin in destroyed at one time or another by the Forest Service. late afternoon and there was Fred again, doing some maintenance on The first time I met Fred was in 1986. I was on my very first the structure. He had just finished tearing down the old wood privy, hiking trip in the North Cascades, to the Park Butte Lookout on the which had been replaced by a newer model, and asked if we’d mind south side of Mount Baker. I was hiking solo, following a write-up burning the wood in the cabin’s woodstove. We were happy to oblige in his legendary book. It was early in the season, and somewhere in and enjoyed a stormy night beside the warmth of a crackling fire. the Morovitz Meadows I lost the trail in the snow. I could see the With respect to the question of which is more spectacular— lookout perched high above, but the route was uncertain. Eventually Park Butte or Hidden Lake Peak, I too am on the fence. And let’s not I noticed a single pair of boot prints heading up in what seemed to overlook Winchester Peak, Copper Ridge, Miner’s Ridge, Pilchuck, be the right direction. I followed these tracks, which sure enough led Gobbler’s Knob, or famous Desolation Peak Lookout, the much right to the cabin door, and bumped into a wiry “old timer” busily ballyhooed one-time haunt of Jack Kerouac. These—and many engaged in housekeeping chores. This was Fred T. Darvill. other—lookouts scattered around the range offer scenery junkies a We talked about our shared love of the mountains and passion- veritable lifetime of exploration, mountain gazing, and base camps ate appreciation for wildly scenic spots. He told me that while he from which to explore the high country wonderlands of the North had travelled in most of the major mountain ranges of the world— Cascades. If you’re lucky, you may have the supreme experience of

42 race | play | experience >>> connect with ANW contributors & advertisers at Adventuresnw.com spending a night in one of these historic structures, accommodations unequaled by ~ fresh ingredients any five-star resort. ~ daily specials ~ no msg added In no particular order, here are some ~ of the best of the best within Mount gluten-free Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest and menu available North Cascades National Park: Enjoy in our Park Butte (5,400 feet) inviting Strategically situated on the south side atmosphere of Mount Baker, Park Butte rises like a senti- ~or take your ~serving lunch & dinner~ nel above the lush alpine gardens of Morovitz meal home! next to Bellingham’s REI ~ 360-734-8088 Meadows. The views of Baker and the gothic- looking Black Buttes command center stage, but the skyline of peaks to the east and the “There is no place more beautiful in close-at-hand Twin Sisters range will have your head turning like an owl’s. Using Park the Spring & Summer than right here Butte as a base, delightful explorations are in Whatcom County.” possible, including the glorious route up the Railroad Grade to the glacier and rock land- scapes that mark the climber’s way up Baker. ~Sally Farrell Several small tarns below the lookout provide Realtor®/Life Long Bellinghamster water to facilitate an overnight visit. The Park Butte Lookout was built in the fall of 1932 and was used for fire detection 360-393-7339 / [email protected] / sallyfarrell.com until 1961. In 1962 the Skagit Alpine Club volunteered to maintain the structure, sav- ing it from destruction, and thanks to their volunteer efforts the lookout remains in Are you on the right path? good condition to this day. It is available for overnight use if unoccupied by volunteers Let us help you find from the club. the beauty & magic Hidden Lake Peak (6,900 feet) in your life! The first sight of Hidden Lake Peak Lookout will threaten to take your breath 112 Ohio St., Ste 103 away—and climbing the impossibly steep Bellingham boulder slope will surely finish the job. But 360.392.2838 once you reach the top, you’ll have a most counseling our community nwbehavioral.org remarkable place to catch it again, sur- rounded by a 360-degree panorama of the sea of peaks that constitutes the heart of the 18-hole Championship “Scottish Style” Links Course Cascades, including many of the big-names of the range, stretching from Mount Baker Whether you play us twice a year to Mount Rainier. Situated as it is atop a or 200 times a year... gigantic boulder pile, the Hidden Lake Peak ...we have a membership that will save you a bundle! Lookout feels undeniably wild and isolated • free rounds • 4 levels of membership • discounted play 99 from the greenery below. To watch the sun- beginning at just $99 Come play set from this perch is a peak experience, in one of the best conditioned 205 W. Smith Road every sense of the word. If you’re planning an courses around! overnight stay you’ll have to melt snow for Gently Rolling Fairways 360-398-8300 Flowering Meadows 888-322-NBGC drinking water or else haul it up the rocks. Panoramic Views of Mt. Baker continued >>> NorthBellinghamGolf.com

Never miss an issue—subscribe to receive anw in your mailbox at ADVENTURESNW.COM <<< race | play | experience 43 <<

Hidden Lake Peak Lookout photo by John D’Onofrio LNT.org

Winchester Lookout photo by John D’Onofrio

Mountain. And of course, Mount Baker fills can be transported to the dock at Lucerne, the sky to the southeast. The end-of-the- where bus transport can be arranged to day alpenglow on its snow-covered dome is Holden Village, an old mining town now one of the classic sights in these remarkable operated as a retreat center by the Lutheran WATER FOWLED mountains. If the lookout is too busy for Church. From Holden, a trail climbs over you (it gets very busy), an appealing side-trip Cloudy and Suiattle passes to Miner’s Ridge is to High Pass on a shoulder of Larrabee. and Image Lake, a distance of approximately The High Pass trail forks right off of the 16 miles. Winchester trail after it begins climbing The lookout is staffed by a wilderness from Twin Lakes. ranger in summer, but splendid camping Winchester Mountain Lookout is options abound near Image Lake. The views We stand for wildlife, thriving maintained by the Mount Baker Club, a from the lookout (and the whole ridge) pines, hiking, fishing, Bellingham-based all volunteer organization are off the charts—Plummer Mountain, boating, biking, climbing responsible for saving it from destruction by Northstar and distant are jaw- and camping out. We think the Forest Service in 1982. The structure, dropping, and the massive bulk of Glacier which is now on the National Registry of Peak is on full display. The hike to Miner’s that educating people is the Historic Places, is available for overnight use Ridge is one of the epic backcountry trips in key to land protection, and on a first-come-first-served basis. the North Cascades, with the lookout being believe that when people Miner’s Ridge (6,210 feet) only one of a succession of highlights that know how to take care of also include Cloudy Pass and the Lyman The luminous green meadows of their lands, they will forge Lakes. With the western trailhead inacces- Miner’s Ridge cradling Image Lake used to the path to protect them. sible (the Forest Service is looking at 2011 be a very busy place, despite the significant before road repairs can be completed) visit- grunt required to get there. Its reputation Because when it comes to ing Miner’s Ridge Lookout from the east as one of the premier beauty spots in the healthy lands, we’re all in represents a superlative opportunity to enjoy mountain west assured visitors of having this together. one of the most beautiful spots in the North company when they arrived. But in 2003 Cascades—and have it to yourself. when the took out the road in The biggest problem facing the adven- one of its periodic winter floods, hikers faced turous hiker is simply to choose from such a 20-mile hike just to get to the original an embarrassment of riches. But no worries: trailhead. This turn of events has resulted in with a little time, some hiking boots and considerable thinning of the crowds. But an a bold spirit, a lifetime of lookout touring excellent alternative approach from the east awaits. Don’t forget your camera. exists, albeit one that requires some logisti- cal considerations. By booking passage on * Ed. Note: The “lucky North Cascades the Lady of the Lake on , hikers backcountry ranger” is none other than regular ANW contributor Abigail Sussman.

race | play | experience 45