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Lookouts of the North Cascades

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Lookouts of the North Cascades Touching the sky: lookouts of the North Cascades miner’s ridge Lookout & Glacier Peak photo by ethan d’onofrio story by John D’Onofrio I met Fred T. Darvill twice. the Himalayas, the Andes, the Alaska Range, etc.—in his opinion Fred was a champion of the North Cascades, the author of the most beautiful aerie he had ever been to was right there at Park the Sierra Club’s “Little Blue” book, Hiking the North Cascades Butte. Then he hedged: Maybe the Hidden Lake Peak Lookout (published way back in 1982), a seminal guide to these stupendous above the Cascade River was even better. Regardless of the waffling, mountains. I’ve had Darvill’s book so long, the printing has worn his point was taken: the lookouts of the North Cascades were set off the cover. Fred was a long-time advocate for wild lands—he was among the most beautiful places on Earth. We said our goodbyes instrumental in the creation of North Cascades National Park in and he went down the mountain, leaving me to my reverie. 1968, an effort that included personally (and successfully) lobbying The second time I met Fred was many years later. I was again President Lynden Johnson in a famous face-to-face meeting at the climbing the precipitous trail to Park Butte, this time with a friend. White House. And he was also a one-man preservation force dedi- We were hoping to spend the night in the lookout cabin. It was cated to saving the smattering of historic lookout cabins sprinkled October and bitterly cold with a sharp-edged wind and hoar ice lac- strategically around the range. Virtually all of these were slated to be ing the high meadows. It smelled like snow. We reached the cabin in destroyed at one time or another by the Forest Service. late afternoon and there was Fred again, doing some maintenance on The first time I met Fred was in 1986. I was on my very first the structure. He had just finished tearing down the old wood privy, hiking trip in the North Cascades, to the Park Butte Lookout on the which had been replaced by a newer model, and asked if we’d mind south side of Mount Baker. I was hiking solo, following a write-up burning the wood in the cabin’s woodstove. We were happy to oblige in his legendary book. It was early in the season, and somewhere in and enjoyed a stormy night beside the warmth of a crackling fire. the Morovitz Meadows I lost the trail in the snow. I could see the With respect to the question of which is more spectacular— lookout perched high above, but the route was uncertain. Eventually Park Butte or Hidden Lake Peak, I too am on the fence. And let’s not I noticed a single pair of boot prints heading up in what seemed to overlook Winchester Peak, Copper Ridge, Miner’s Ridge, Pilchuck, be the right direction. I followed these tracks, which sure enough led Gobbler’s Knob, or famous Desolation Peak Lookout, the much right to the cabin door, and bumped into a wiry “old timer” busily ballyhooed one-time haunt of Jack Kerouac. These—and many engaged in housekeeping chores. This was Fred T. Darvill. other—lookouts scattered around the range offer scenery junkies a We talked about our shared love of the mountains and passion- veritable lifetime of exploration, mountain gazing, and base camps ate appreciation for wildly scenic spots. He told me that while he from which to explore the high country wonderlands of the North had travelled in most of the major mountain ranges of the world— Cascades. If you’re lucky, you may have the supreme experience of 42 race | play | experience >>> connect with AnW contributors & advertisers at AdventuresnW.com spending a night in one of these historic structures, accommodations unequaled by ~ fresh ingredients any five-star resort. ~ daily specials ~ no msg added In no particular order, here are some ~ of the best of the best within Mount gluten-free Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest and menu available North Cascades National Park: Enjoy in our Park Butte (5,400 feet) inviting Strategically situated on the south side atmosphere of Mount Baker, Park Butte rises like a senti- ~or take your ~serving lunch & dinner~ nel above the lush alpine gardens of Morovitz meal home! next to Bellingham’s REI ~ 360-734-8088 Meadows. The views of Baker and the gothic- looking Black Buttes command center stage, but the skyline of peaks to the east and the “There is no place more beautiful in close-at-hand Twin Sisters range will have your head turning like an owl’s. Using Park the Spring & Summer than right here Butte as a base, delightful explorations are in Whatcom County.” possible, including the glorious route up the Railroad Grade to the glacier and rock land- scapes that mark the climber’s way up Baker. ~Sally Farrell ® Several small tarns below the lookout provide Realtor /Life Long Bellinghamster water to facilitate an overnight visit. The Park Butte Lookout was built in the fall of 1932 and was used for fire detection 360-393-7339 / [email protected] / sallyfarrell.com until 1961. In 1962 the Skagit Alpine Club volunteered to maintain the structure, sav- ing it from destruction, and thanks to their volunteer efforts the lookout remains in Are you on the right path? good condition to this day. It is available for overnight use if unoccupied by volunteers Let us help you find from the club. the beauty & magic Hidden Lake Peak (6,900 feet) in your life! The first sight of Hidden Lake Peak Lookout will threaten to take your breath 112 Ohio St., Ste 103 away—and climbing the impossibly steep Bellingham boulder slope will surely finish the job. But 360.392.2838 once you reach the top, you’ll have a most counseling our community nwbehavioral.org remarkable place to catch it again, sur- rounded by a 360-degree panorama of the sea of peaks that constitutes the heart of the 18-hole Championship “Scottish Style” Links Course Cascades, including many of the big-names of the range, stretching from Mount Baker Whether you play us twice a year to Mount Rainier. Situated as it is atop a or 200 times a year... gigantic boulder pile, the Hidden Lake Peak ...we have a membership that will save you a bundle! Lookout feels undeniably wild and isolated • free rounds • 4 levels of membership • discounted play 99 from the greenery below. To watch the sun- beginning at just $99 Come play set from this perch is a peak experience, in one of the best conditioned 205 W. Smith Road every sense of the word. If you’re planning an courses around! overnight stay you’ll have to melt snow for Gently Rolling Fairways 360-398-8300 Flowering Meadows 888-322-NBGC drinking water or else haul it up the rocks. Panoramic Views of Mt. Baker continued >>> NorthBellinghamGolf.com never miss an issue—subscribe to receive AnW in your mailbox at AdventuresnW.COM <<< race | play | experience 43 <<<LooKOUTS, continued from previous page The biggest problem Side excursions include scrambling to the dramatic scenery the North Cascades have top of Hidden Lake Peak proper or a trip to to offer—Whatcom and Challenger, the facing the adventurous little-visited Sibley Creek Pass. Pickets, and one of the most impressive peaks hiker is simply to The Hidden Lake Peak Lookout was anywhere in the range, Mount Redoubt, ris- choose from such an also built in 1932, and considering its loca- ing like a fortress just below the US/Canada tion perched on boulders high above even the border. High country rambles beckon in all embarrassment of heather fields, the project was a formidable directions. Visit the azure Copper Lake or riches. one. Precut building materials were hauled tiny Egg Lake, or continue along the Copper by pack teams to the saddle below and then Ridge trail through heather gardens and over hand carried and winched the 400 vertical rocky slopes, enjoying ever-changing views feet to its present location. The lookout is of the northern tier. A week spent amongst maintained by the all-volunteer Friends of the glories of Copper Ridge will be savored the Lois Webster Memorial Shelter, based in as spirit-food for years to come. Mt. Vernon and is available for overnight use The lookout cabin on Copper Mountain if not being used by members of the group. is one of the few that is still utilized in sum- It is appropriate to leave a donation to help mer (a lucky North Cascades backcountry to the trailhead at Twin Lakes offers scenes defray maintenance expenses. ranger is stationed there*) but there are ex- rarely glimpsed from an automobile (a high cellent campsites in the vicinity, including Copper Ridge (6,260 feet) clearance one is advised). You can camp at Copper Lake and the glorious view camps Visiting the Copper Ridge Lookout Twin Lakes, or better yet, haul your gear to atop Knob 5689 known as Silesia Camp. represents a commitment of time, muscle the top and enjoy a sky full of glittering stars and sweat. The approach is long and rela- Winchester Mountain (6,520 feet) when the sun goes down. Winchester is the tively demanding: ten miles and 4,800 feet Here’s an easy one—Winchester is an place to admire the dramatic up-thrust fangs of elevation gain. But when you attain the excellent choice for the lookout neophyte of Mount Larrabee and the Border Peaks— sinuous top of Copper Ridge, you will find who wants to experience the glory of the American and Canadian.
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