Wild in Washington CHIEFELBEIN Only three states have more wilderness acres than Washington... S AVE D We profile all 30 areas— from a tiny island refuge to the vast expanse of Olympic National Park. A hiker savors the view from Gray Wolf Ridge in the wilderness of Olympic National Park. Only Alaska, California and Arizona have more wilderness acres than Washington state. By Sam Uzwack and Andrew Engelson Photos by Dave Schiefelbein and Doug Diekema Alpine Lakes Enchantments, the dark, foreboding Boulder River 2 1 362,789 acres mass of Mount Stuart, and the delight- 48,674 acres Established 1976 ful ridge ambles found north of Established 1984 Snoqualmie Pass are but a few of the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie wilderness treasures. Another benefit is Mount Baker-Snoqualmie and Wenatchee National the close proximity to the Puget Sound National Forest Forests lowlands. But be warned: the Alpine A haven for climbers and scramblers, The vast Alpine Lakes Wilderness Lakes are truly in danger of being loved the Boulder River Wilderness boasts a straddles the Cascade Crest. The to death. As a result, Enchantment number of impressive peaks, including beauty of the area is in its diversity of permits must be reserved months in Whitehorse and Three Fingers. Owing landscapes as thick, wet west slope advance, and I-90 trailheads are often to its location on the western slope of forests give way to dry, spacious stands full. Consider longer treks, such as the the Cascades, the area sees over 100 of eastern pines. The Alpine Lakes are PCT from Stevens to Snoqualmie Pass, inches of rain a year. The result: thick, also home to some of Washington’s a 67-mile adventure that will take you tangled forests that make travel premier outdoor destinations – the far from the throngs of weekend difficult. Still, several trails exist, polished granite wonderland of the warriors. including the Lone Tree Pass Trail, a November/December 2005 WASHINGTON TRAILS Wild in Washington 21 22 15 24 23 18 13 7 27 2 4 10 12 Juniper Dunes 20 13 Lake Chelan- 3 1 Sawtooth 6 17 14 Mount Adams 30 15 Mount Baker 16 Mount Rainier 5 19 17 Mount Skokomish 16 18 Noisy-Diobsud 8 29 19 Norse Peak 25 9 20 Olympic 12 21 Pasayten 28 22 Salmo Priest 14 23 San Juan Islands 24 Stephen Mather 26 11 25 Tatoosh Washington’s 30 26 Trapper Creek 4 Buckhorn 8 Glacier View 27 Washington Islands Wilderness Areas 1 Alpine Lakes 5 Clearwater 9 Goat Rocks 28 Wenaha-Tucannon 2 Boulder River 6 Colonel Bob 10 Henry M. Jackson 29 William O. Douglas 3 The Brothers 7 Glacier Peak 11 Indian Heaven 30 Wonder Mountain steep, arduous journey that provides views of Rainier, the Clearwater is the 4 Buckhorn views of Whitehorse—the Squire Creek 44,258 acres place to go. Gaze upon famous Liberty Trail for a look at Three Fingers—and Established 1984 Ridge and the fearsome Willis Wall, the Boulder River Trail for a stroll then higher to the summit crater. through the last virgin-forested valley in Olympic National Forest Stands of old growth timber add to the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. Tucked into the northeast corner of feeling of smallness the area instills the Olympic Peninsula lies the amid all the grandeur. The 6.5-mile Buckhorn, an area split in two by the 3 The Brothers Bearhead Summit Trail leads to the site 16,682 acres Dungeness River, and characterized by of an abandoned lookout and makes for dense, stately forests that give way to a fine day outing. Established 1984 steep, rocky ridgelines. The northern Olympic National Forest section features Baldy and Tyler Peaks 6 Colonel Bob Named for the striking, double- and sees few visitors. A greater number 11,961 acres summited peak that dominates the of hikes crisscross the southern portion. southern skyline of the Olympic Range, The summit of Mount Townsend Established 1984 The Brothers offers hiking, backpack- affords views of both the Strait of Juan Olympic National Forest ing, and scrambling in a superb de Fuca and the Puget Sound, and the Receiving more than 120 inches of wilderness setting. (The peaks were committed camper can take in both rain per year, the Colonel Bob Wilder- named by George Davidson of the U.S. spectacular sunsets and sunrises. ness offers visitors a firsthand look at Coast Survey after Edward and Arthur the dense world of the temperate rain Fauntleroy, the brothers of Davidson’s Clearwater forest. Escape to higher ground is 5 fiancée, Ellinor.) The Duckabush River 14,192 acres possible, as a day hike or overnight trip Trail penetrates 20 miles into the heart Established 1984 to the summit of Colonel Bob Moun- of the Olympics, while the Mount tain offers sweeping views of Rainier, Jupiter Trail leads you to views of the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie Adams, St. Helens and the vast expanse enormous bulk of Constance, Hood National Forest of the Pacific Ocean. Canal and Seattle. If you are seeking unforgettable WASHINGTON TRAILS November/December 2005 Wild in Washington Where’s Our Next CHIEFELBEIN S AVE Wilderness? D Washington Trails Association has been a constistent supporter of the Wild Sky WildernessWilderness, a proposed 106,000-acre wilderness area protecting high mountains and forested lowland valleys in the Skykomish River drainage west of Stevens Pass. Wild Sky would be the first new Congressionally desig- nated wilderness in Washing- ton state since 1984 (bills in 1988 permanently protected wilderness areas within the state’s three major National Parks). Hiking opportunities Glacier Peak and in Wild Sky would include the Image Lake, in the 8-mile round trip hike up West Glacier Peak Cady Ridge. Wilderness. Within Wild Sky would provide wilderness bound- essential habitat for salmon, aries, only travel by trout, black bear, lynx and foot (either human many other species. or pack animal) is allowed, and the land is to be 7 Glacier Peak preserved so that 570,573 acres “earth and its community of life Established 1964 are untrammeled.” Mount Baker-Snoqualmie and Wenatchee National Forests Glacier View 8 9 Goat Rocks Home to the most remote of 3,123 acres 107,018 acres Washington volcanoes, the Glacier Established 1984 Peak Wilderness features rugged, Established 1964 mountainous terrain coupled with Mount Baker-Snoqualmie Gifford Pinchot and Mount deep, lush valleys. Over 450 miles of National Forest Baker-Snoqualmie National trail cut through the area, featuring Nestled against the western border of Forests everything from easy day hikes to multi- Mount Rainier National Park, the The Goat Rocks offer the quintessen- day, cross-country outings. The famous Glacier View Wilderness serves up tial alpine experience: high, rocky crags, Ptarmigan Traverse, a combination of unparalleled views of The Mountain. wildflower-carpeted meadows, and rock scrambling and glacier travel, is as The 6-mile round-trip journey on the plenty of cool, inviting lakes, all sand- classic a route as they come. An Glacier View Trail is a must; just be sure wiched between the awesome presence abundance of wildlife, including deer, to leave plenty of time to gaze upon the of the state’s two highest peaks–Rainier elk, black bear, mountain goat and western flanks of Rainier. Pack a map to the north and Adams to the south. cougar, inhabits the wilderness, so keep and try to pick out the Sunset Amphi- The PCT gains its highest elevation in a sharp eye out for that prize-winning theater, Tahoma and Puyallup Glaciers, Washington as it passes under Old photo. Point Success and more. Snowy and above the Packwood November/December 2005 WASHINGTON TRAILS Wild in Washington What is Wilderness? CHIEFELBEIN S Wilderness is land set aside by AVE D Congress, where the earth and its community of life are untram- meled by people, and where people themselves are visitors who do not remain. The Wilder- ness Act, which grants power to Congress to permanently protect such areas, became law in 1964. Who was Colonel Bob? Colonel Robert G. Ingersoll (1833– 1899) (a.k.a. the Great Agnostic) th Blaca Lake, was the commander of the 11 Henry M. Illinois Cavalry Regiment and Jackson fought in the Battle of Shiloh Wilderness. during the Civil War. He is best The area is known as the most popular orator named for a of his time, and held radical views longtime U.S. on slavery, religion, and women’s senator who suffrage that prevented him from helped secure attaining political office higher Congressional than Illinois Attorney General. designation for many of the Who was William O. state’s wilderness Douglas? areas. William Orville Douglas (1898– 1980) was an associate justice of the Supreme Court from 1939– Glacier, and the hiking is dramatic. The acre Blanca Lake makes for an ideal 1975. His decisions reflected a trail follows the true crest, alternating day hike destination, complete with deep commitment to the under- between slippery scree slopes dropping views of the Columbia Glacier and privileged and the environment. off to the valley below and airy sections Monte Cristo Peak. Raised in Yakima, Douglas knew on the top of the ridge itself, some no the wilderness area named for him wider than a single hiker. 11 Indian Heaven intimately from an early age. 20,960 acres Henry M. Jackson 10 Established 1984 What are the smallest and 100,356 acres Gifford Pinchot National Established 1984 largest wilderness areas in Forest Washington? Mount Baker-Snoqualmie For the last 10,000 years Native and Wenatchee National San Juan Islands is the smallest, American tribes, including the Yakama, comprising just 353 acres of bird Forests Klickitat and Umatilla have visited this habitat on 83 small islands and Situated just north of Stevens Pass, area to hunt elk and gather huckleber- rocks within San Juan Islands the Henry M.