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Home , Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Baker Lake (Washington), Boulder River Wilderness, Colville National Forest, Duckabush River, Glacier View Wilderness

Wild in CHIEFELBEIN

Only three states have more acres than Washington... S AVE D

We profile all 30 areas— from a tiny island refuge to the vast expanse of Olympic .

A hiker savors the view from Gray Ridge in the wilderness of . Only , and have more wilderness acres than Washington state. By Sam Uzwack and Andrew Engelson Photos by Dave Schiefelbein and Doug Diekema

Alpine Lakes Enchantments, the dark, foreboding Boulder River 2 1 362,789 acres mass of , and the delight- 48,674 acres Established 1976 ful ridge ambles found north of Established 1984 are but a few of the -Snoqualmie wilderness treasures. Another benefit is Mount Baker-Snoqualmie and Wenatchee National the close proximity to the National lowlands. But be warned: the Alpine A haven for climbers and scramblers, The vast Lakes are truly in danger of being loved the boasts a straddles the Cascade Crest. The to death. As a result, Enchantment number of impressive peaks, including beauty of the is in its diversity of permits must be reserved months in Whitehorse and Three Fingers. Owing landscapes as thick, wet west slope advance, and I-90 trailheads are often to its location on the western slope of forests give way to dry, spacious stands full. Consider longer treks, such as the the , the area sees over 100 of eastern pines. The Alpine Lakes are PCT from Stevens to Snoqualmie Pass, inches of a year. The result: thick, also home to some of Washington’s a 67-mile adventure that will take you tangled forests that make travel premier outdoor destinations – the far from the throngs of weekend difficult. Still, several exist, polished wonderland of the warriors. including the Lone Tree Pass , a

November/December 2005 WASHINGTON TRAILS Wild in Washington

21 22 15 24 23 18 13 7 27 2 4 10 12 Juniper 20 13 - 3 1 Sawtooth 6 17 14 30 15 Mount Baker 16 5 19 17 16 18 Noisy-Diobsud 8 29 19 Norse Peak 25 9 20 Olympic 12 21 Pasayten 28 22 Salmo Priest 14 23 24 Stephen Mather 26 11 25 Tatoosh Washington’s 30 26 Trapper Creek 4 Buckhorn 8 View 27 Washington Islands Wilderness Areas 1 Alpine Lakes 5 Clearwater 9 28 Wenaha-Tucannon 2 Boulder River 6 Colonel Bob 10 Henry M. Jackson 29 William O. Douglas 3 The Brothers 7 11 30 Wonder

steep, arduous journey that provides views of Rainier, the Clearwater is the 4 Buckhorn views of Whitehorse—the Squire Creek 44,258 acres place to go. Gaze upon famous Liberty Trail for a look at Three Fingers—and Established 1984 Ridge and the fearsome Willis Wall, the Boulder River Trail for a stroll then higher to the crater. through the last virgin-forested valley in Stands of old growth timber add to the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. Tucked into the northeast corner of feeling of smallness the area instills the lies the amid all the grandeur. The 6.5-mile Buckhorn, an area split in two by the 3 The Brothers Bearhead Summit Trail leads to the site 16,682 acres , and characterized by of an abandoned lookout and makes for dense, stately forests that give way to a fine day outing. Established 1984 steep, rocky ridgelines. The northern Olympic National Forest section features Baldy and Tyler Peaks 6 Colonel Bob Named for the striking, double- and sees few visitors. A greater number 11,961 acres summited peak that dominates the of hikes crisscross the southern portion. southern skyline of the Olympic Range, The summit of Mount Townsend Established 1984 The Brothers offers , backpack- affords views of both the Strait of Juan Olympic National Forest ing, and scrambling in a superb de Fuca and the Puget Sound, and the Receiving more than 120 inches of wilderness setting. (The peaks were committed camper can take in both rain per year, the Colonel Bob Wilder- named by George Davidson of the U.S. spectacular sunsets and sunrises. ness offers visitors a firsthand look at Coast Survey after Edward and Arthur the dense world of the temperate rain Fauntleroy, the brothers of Davidson’s Clearwater forest. Escape to higher ground is 5 fiancée, Ellinor.) The 14,192 acres possible, as a day hike or overnight trip Trail penetrates 20 miles into the heart Established 1984 to the summit of Colonel Bob Moun- of the Olympics, while the Mount tain offers sweeping views of Rainier, Jupiter Trail leads you to views of the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie Adams, St. Helens and the vast expanse enormous bulk of Constance, Hood National Forest of the Ocean. Canal and . If you are seeking unforgettable

WASHINGTON TRAILS /December 2005 Wild in Washington

Where’s Our Next CHIEFELBEIN S AVE Wilderness? D Washington Trails Association has been a constistent supporter of the Wild Sky WildernessWilderness, a proposed 106,000-acre wilderness area protecting high and forested lowland valleys in the drainage west of . Wild Sky would be the first new Congressionally desig- nated wilderness in Washing- ton state since 1984 (bills in 1988 permanently protected wilderness areas within the state’s three major National Parks). Hiking opportunities Glacier Peak and in Wild Sky would include the , in the 8-mile round trip hike up West Glacier Peak Cady Ridge. Wilderness. Within Wild Sky would provide wilderness bound- essential habitat for , , only travel by , black bear, and foot (either human many other species. or pack animal) is allowed, and the land is to be 7 Glacier Peak preserved so that 570,573 acres “earth and its community of life Established 1964 are untrammeled.” Mount Baker-Snoqualmie and Wenatchee National Forests Glacier View 8 9 Goat Rocks Home to the most remote of 3,123 acres 107,018 acres Washington volcanoes, the Glacier Established 1984 Peak Wilderness features rugged, Established 1964 mountainous terrain coupled with Mount Baker-Snoqualmie and Mount deep, lush valleys. Over 450 miles of National Forest Baker-Snoqualmie National trail cut through the area, featuring Nestled against the western of Forests everything from easy day hikes to multi- Mount Rainier National Park, the The Goat Rocks offer the quintessen- day, cross-country outings. The famous serves up tial alpine experience: high, rocky crags, Ptarmigan Traverse, a combination of unparalleled views of The Mountain. wildflower-carpeted , and rock scrambling and glacier travel, is as The 6-mile round-trip journey on the plenty of cool, inviting lakes, all sand- classic a route as they come. An Glacier View Trail is a must; just be sure wiched between the awesome presence abundance of wildlife, including , to leave plenty of time to gaze upon the of the state’s two highest peaks–Rainier , black bear, and western flanks of Rainier. Pack a map to the north and Adams to the south. , inhabits the wilderness, so keep and try to pick out the Sunset Amphi- The PCT gains its highest elevation in a sharp eye out for that prize-winning theater, Tahoma and Puyallup , Washington as it passes under Old photo. Point Success and more. Snowy and above the Packwood

November/December 2005 WASHINGTON TRAILS Wild in Washington

What is Wilderness? CHIEFELBEIN

S Wilderness is land set aside by AVE

D Congress, where the earth and its community of life are untram- meled by people, and where people themselves are visitors who do not remain. The Wilder- ness Act, which grants power to Congress to permanently protect such areas, became law in 1964.

Who was Colonel Bob? Colonel Robert G. Ingersoll (1833– 1899) (a.k.a. the Great Agnostic) th Blaca Lake, was the commander of the 11 Henry M. Cavalry Regiment and Jackson fought in the Battle of Shiloh Wilderness. during the Civil War. He is best The area is known as the most popular orator named for a of his time, and held radical views longtime U.S. on , religion, and women’s senator who suffrage that prevented him from helped secure attaining political office higher Congressional than Illinois Attorney General. designation for many of the Who was William O. state’s wilderness Douglas? areas. William Orville Douglas (1898– 1980) was an associate justice of the Supreme Court from 1939– Glacier, and the hiking is dramatic. The acre Blanca Lake makes for an ideal 1975. His decisions reflected a trail follows the true crest, alternating day hike destination, complete with deep commitment to the under- between slippery scree slopes dropping views of the Glacier and privileged and the environment. off to the valley below and airy sections . Raised in Yakima, Douglas knew on the top of the ridge itself, some no the wilderness area named for him wider than a single hiker. 11 Indian Heaven intimately from an early age. 20,960 acres Henry M. Jackson 10 Established 1984 What are the smallest and 100,356 acres Gifford Pinchot National Established 1984 largest wilderness areas in Forest Washington? Mount Baker-Snoqualmie For the last 10,000 years Native and Wenatchee National San Juan Islands is the smallest, American tribes, including the , comprising just 353 acres of bird Forests Klickitat and Umatilla have visited this habitat on 83 small islands and Situated just north of Stevens Pass, area to hunt elk and gather huckleber- rocks within San Juan Islands the Henry M. Jackson Wilderness takes ries. Today, the “Sahalee Tyee” (the . The its name from the longtime Washington Native American name for this area) largest, 876,669 acres, is the senator who fought to preserve our features over 150 lakes, crumbling Olympic Wilderness, which state’s wild spaces. Sharp, serrated volcanic formations, and nearly 42 makes up 95 percent of Olympic peaks characterize the area, a beautiful miles of backcountry trails to explore. National Park, and which was backdrop for the many alpine lakes and Watch for areas closed for the annual officially designated by Congress meadows. The PCT offers 32 miles of Native American . in 1988. high ridge wandering, while the 180-

WASHINGTON TRAILS November/December 2005 Wild in Washington IEKEMA D OUG D

Mount Baker from Skyline Ridge, in the , designated in 1984.

12 Juniper Dunes 14 Mount Adams of the most dramatic scenery in the 7,140 acres 46,353 acres state, with an astounding 10,000 acres Established 1984 Established 1964 of permanent ice. An easy 3-mile stroll up the Skyline Divide Trail brings the Bureau of Land Gifford Pinchot National massive Mount Baker to within arm’s Management Forest reach; as night falls, the sun slips behind Featuring the northernmost growth With the second-highest peak in the Island as the Puget Sound of western juniper and ten-story tall state as its centerpiece, the Mount shimmers below…and that’s just on the sand dunes, the Juniper Dunes Wilder- Adams Wilderness calls to anyone west. To the east, and ness presents the would-be visitor with wanting a remote experience near a big the Pickets fill the horizon, an endless a curious challenge: no legal access. mountain. The 12,276-foot peak can be array of jagged ridges. For a more Permission is required to travel a reached by a nontechnical route on the personal view of one of Baker’s glaciers, variety of old jeep trails over privately south side, although an ice axe and head up the Heliotrope Ridge Trail, but owned lands. Expect no water or crampons are needed, as well as an be prepared for hordes of climbers in maintained trails. understanding of travel at altitude and the summer months. mountain . Another challenging Lake Chelan-Sawtooth option is the 34-mile Mount Adams 16 Mount Rainier 13 151,435 acres Highline Trail, but be prepared to earn 228,480 acres Established 1984 this circuit around the mountain. Established 1988 Several miles pass through the Yakama Okanogan and Wenatchee , and a special Mount Rainier National National Forests permit is needed from the . A 21- Park The distinguishing feature of the mile stretch of the PCT also crosses the Nearly 97 percent of Mount Rainier Lake Chelan-Sawtooth wilderness is its wilderness. National park is designated as wilder- more open, Rocky Mountain feel. As a ness. The mountain, Washington’s result, off-trail travel becomes more 15 Mount Baker highest peak at 14,410 feet, dominates inviting, as park-like ridges and open 117,528 acres the park and is the state’s defining icon. meadows beckon. Nearly 200 miles of Established 1984 The wilderness protects not only the trails traverse the area, attracting peak and its 27 glaciers, but also a vast backpackers, horsepackers and Mount Baker- of river valley fisherman alike.All Lake forests, high alpine meadows and a trailheads must be reached by or Extending from State Highway 20 network of 300 miles of trail. The park’s private boat, a delightful way to start off north to the Canadian border, the preeminent trail is the Wonderland, a your wilderness experience. Mount Baker Wilderness offers some 97-mile loop around the mountain.

November/December 2005 WASHINGTON TRAILS Wild in Washington Reservations for backcountry camp- out trails is the 7-mile round trip route subalpine fir and high wildflower sites go quickly, so if you plan to hike all to the summit of Noble Knob, a meadows where whistle and of the Wonderland, make plans in paradise of technicolor wildflower pikas squeak. Heavily glaciated Mount winter and early spring. Congress displays in early summer. The Pacific Olympus (7,980 feet) is at the center of officially designated the wilderness Crest Trail (PCT) also crosses the this wilderness, and many of the park’s areas of the park in 1988. wilderness north to south for 27 miles. peaks and high routes challenge climbers and off-trail afficionados. Mount Skokomish 20 Olympic Nearly 600 miles of trails within the 17 13,015 acres 876,669 acres park make Olympic an overnight Established 1984 Established 1988 backpacker’s dream. The historic Press Expedition route takes hikers on a 45- Olympic National Forest Olympic National Park mile trek from Whiskey Bend up the Situated in the southeast corner of The state’s largest wilderness also valley to Low Divide, and the Olympic Peninsula, this relatively offers the most diverse collection of then down the North Fork Quinault small but rugged wilderness is home to . A 48-mile coastal shoreline River. Other stand-out hikes include several popular trails, including the Offers windswept beaches, rocky Royal Basin and Klahane Ridge in the angler’s route to Mildred Lakes, the seastacks, and tidepools abundant with park’s northeast corner, the remote steep trail to the summit of Mount sealife. Lush temperate Skyline Divide in the southwest corner, Ellinor, and the Putvin Trail. Mount blanket the Hoh, Queets and Quinault and the elegant (and popular) high Skokomish, at 6,434 feet, is the area’s River valleys—and regularly receive up meadows of above highest peak, and the wilderness is to 15 feet of rainfall each year. Higher the . In 1988, Congress home to elk, cougar, black bear, up, dense forests of western red cedar officially designated 95 percent of marmots, and abundant mountain and western hemlock transition to Olympic National Park as wilderness. goats—an not native to the Olympics. CHIEFELBEIN S

Noisy-Diobsud AVE

18 D 14,133 acres Established 1984 Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest Abutting National Park, this rugged little wilderness just south of is an off-trail hiker’s realm. Only a couple trails provide access, and many of the mountainsides and valleys are steep or covered with dense thickets of old- growth red cedar, western hemlock, and devil’s club. The odd name comes from two creeks that drain from here: Noisy and Diobsud.

19 Norse Peak 52,180 acres Established 1984 Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest Views of Mount Rainier to the west are just one of many reasons to visit this wilderness area: high meadows, stands of subalpine fir, and historic lookouts Old growth temperate rain forests can be found in and gold- sites. One of the stand- Olympic National Park’s wilderness areas.

WASHINGTON TRAILS November/December 2005 Wild in Washington 21 Pasayten 529, 477 acres CHIEFELBEIN S

Established 1968 AVE Mount Baker/Snoqualmie D and Okanogan National Forests If you’re looking for solitude, the vast Pasayten—running some 50 miles along the U.S.-Canadian border—is the place for you. It’s home to diverse ecosystems, ranging from westside forests of Douglas fir and red cedar to the more arid eastside stands of Ponderosa pine. Some of the state’s best shows of autumn larches can be found here, as well as the largest population of lynx in the lower 48 states. The wilderness is networked with more than 600 miles of trails, including the northern terminus of the Pacifc Crest Trail, and the fantastic 14-mile Horshoe Basin loop trail, through a -like expanse.

Salmo-Priest 22 41,335 acres Established 1984 (and Panhandle National Forest) Straddling the border between Washington and Idaho, the Salmo- Weathered wood and Cathedral Peak, . Priest protects huge forests of western red cedar, Douglas fir, grand fir, and mammals in the San Juan Islands. wilderness areas within North Cascades larches in the Selkirk mountain of Small boats are allowed to approach National Park, the National northeast Washington. The wilderness the shoreline, but most of the wilder- Recreation Area, and Lake Chelan is home to a diverse array of wildlife, ness is closed to foot travel, with the . About 400 including , elk, black bear, exception of , which is split miles of trails traverse the wilderness, grizzly, cougar and lynx. The premier betwen a Washington State Park and but the vast majority of acreage is off- trail in the area is the 21-mile Shedroof wilderness land. Puffins, oystercatchers, trail: stunning alpine peaks, solitary Loop, a rugged and solitary route to and bald eagles are just a few of the glacial valleys, and dense forests of high meadows and several old forest birds you can spot here. hemlock, cedar and fir. Wildlife include lookouts. black-tailded deer, cougar, black bear, Stephen Mather the occassional grizzly, marmots, pikas, San Juan Islands 24 23 634,614 acres bald eagles and ospreys. The park offers 353 acres eight distinct plant life zones and holds Established 1988 Established 1976 the distinction of having more plant North Cascades National San Juan Islands National species (1,627) than any other National Park Park. Trails include the superb Wildlife Refuge Named for the first director of the Hannegan Pass/Copper Ridge route, Scattered over 83 small islands and , the Stephen Thornton Lakes, and the challenging rocky islets, the state’s smallest wilder- Mather Wilderness is a vast series of Easy Pass route. ness is a sanctuary for birds and marine

November/December 2005 WASHINGTON TRAILS Wild in Washington 25 Tatoosh 15,750 acres CHIEFELBEIN S

Established 1984 AVE Gifford Pinchot National D Forest A small wilderness bordering Mount Rainier National Park, the Tatoosh protects a series of ridges and valleys draining into the . The premier hike is Tatoosh Ridge, a 6-mile round trip day hike that takes you from Douglas fir forest to mountain hem- lock, fields of wildflowers and views of Rainier, Adams, and St. Helens.

Trapper Creek 26 5,970 acres Established 1984 Gifford Pinchot National Forest This pocket-sized wilderness protects View from Sahale Arm, Stephen Mather Wilderness, North Cascades National Park. the Trapper Creek drainage, an area of old-growth Douglas fir forest and home the Wenaha-Tucannon is located in predominate, while on the dry lands to pileated woodpeckers, goshawks and southeast Washington, with the east of the crest, ponderosa pine is the rare . The primary hike remainder found across the border in abundant. If you’re lucky, you might found here is up Observation Peak, a . Pondersa pine dominates the spot fox, fishers, mountain goats, or elk. 13-mile loop trip ascending to ridges, lower elevations; lodgepole pine, larch, The 12-mile round trip trail up Mount views, and . and spruce inhabit the middle eleva- Aix is a classic, offering wide views tions; subalpine fir tops ridgelines. This from the 7,766-foot summit. Washington Islands 27 solitary wilderness is home to Rocky 485 acres Mountain elk, , cougar, 30 Wonder Mountain Established 1970 black bear, and many other 2,349 acres Copalis, Flattery Rocks and species. The Panjab and Mount Misery Established 1984 Trails take hikers to the high country Olympic National Forest Quillayute Needles where the tribe historically National Wildlife Refuges gathered each summer for hunting, If you’re looking for an off-trail Comprising more than 600 rocks, food gathering and socializing. challenge, the tiny Wonder Mountain seastacks, and reefs along the Washing- Wilderness is for you. No trails cross ton coast, all of Washington Islands William O. Douglas this small parcel of mountains border- 29 ing the south end of Olympic National Wilderness is closed to human visitors. 168,232 acres These remote coastal refuges are home Park. Hardy bushwhackers can trek to to seals, sea lions, sea otters, and Established 1984 four unnamed lakes or the summit of breeding grounds for more than a Okanogan-Wenatchee and 4,848-foot Wonder Mountain. dozen species of birds, including Gifford Pinchot National Acreage and other data courtesy of cormorants, murres and puffins. Forests www.wilderness.net, a partnership Aptly named for the Supreme Court between of the Wilderness Institute Wenaha-Tucannon 28 Justice and conservationist who spent at The University of ’s 111, 048 acres much of his life hiking and exploring College of and Conserva- Established 1978 this region, the William O. offers a tion, the Arthur Carhart National range of wet-side and dry side ecosys- Wilderness Training Center,and the tems and nearly 250 miles of trails to Protecting unique ecosystems in the Aldo Leopold Wilderness Research explore. On the west side, fir, western Blue Mountains, about two-thirds of Institute. hemlock, and western red cedar

WASHINGTON TRAILS November/December 2005