Man and Turtle in the Central Carolines
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Man and Turtle in the Central Carolines MIKE A. McCoY1 Abstract This paper shows the relationships, both past and present, between the people of the central Carolines and the green sea turtle, Chelonia mydas (Linnaeus). The report focuses on the islands from Satawa! to Woleai, including various uninhabited islands and atolls. Much of the information contained here is embodied in taboos, beliefs, and practices, both past and present, which for generations have been a part of life in these islands. A survey of factors governing the present harvesting of turtles shows that increased pressure in being placed on the stocks in this area. The dependence of these island people upon the sea and the green turtle as a major source of protein make it imperative that the islanders be educated as to the detrimental effect of poor management on the resource. According to local legend, long before people inhabited the island of Satawa! and the rest of the Carolines, a number of birds got together and decided to build a canoe. Built of leaves, it was ready to sail when a rat came to the water's edge and asked to accompany the birds on their voyage. As the voyage progressed, the rat made a continual nuisance of himself-drinking all of the coconuts stored on board and eating most of the copra with which they had provisioned the canoe. Finally, unable to stand it any longer, the birds bade the rat farewell and flew off in the direction of an island. The rat drifted aimlessly, later spotting a large turtle drifting lazily on the surface. The rat summoned the turtle, and related his plight, asking the turtle to take him back to land. The turtle agreed, but made it plain that he was an ocean animal, and would not approach close to land. The cunning rat jumped on the turtle's back unging him to swim as close to the island as he wished. As they approached the island the turtle commanded the rat to jump off and swim ashore. The rat pleaded that the reef fish would eat him if he tried to swim ashore and asked the turtle to get just a bit closer. The turtle swam over the fringing reef and once again told the rat to jump. Once again the rat refused, saying that the fish would surely eat him. So the turtle came up near the beach and begged the rat to jump off onto the sand. The rat, however, was not inclined to, saying that the small land crabs would eat him. He again asked the turtle to get just a bit closer. So the turtle, a creature of the deep sea, crawled up onto the beach for the first time and told the rat to jump off. The rat asked him to go just a little farther inland. As they reached the edge of the woods, the rat quickly jumped down, and called to his former companions, the birds. They descended upon the hapless turtle, flipping him over and rejoicing at their good luck. 1 District Fisheries Officer, Yap, W. Caroline Islands 96943; Associate of Yap Institute of Natural Science. · Micronesica 10(2):207-221. 1974 (December). 11•• 1:,7• ., .. .... .... 141• 141• 141• 144. ..... ,... 147• N 0 Yap (X) H1•I Dis Incl I,,. Ill TRUST TERRITORY Of THE PACIFi°C ISLANDS ULITHI ATOLL "'1"4L"LOI'./ l 1aol J,o {(• FA.IS I. YA/I ISLANDS y , • IIUIIU-~N'/. TAI' I. •A•fL•TOldl. I. •,l,"UUT I, ,•I A 1•• FARAULEP' ATOLL ~'1 NGUI.U ATOLL l> tJ SOROL ATOLL ....... WEST FAYU ATOLL ~ . I,. ••I l'IKtlOT I. OLIIURAO ATOLL J LAIIOTREK ATOLL WOLEAI ATOLL ELATO ATOL';?.'-~ ,;:1 ti,FALIK ATOLL e s:: IATAWAL I. 1• 1-,. EAURIPIK ATOLL ;· 4;:. ~- .. .. ,. ,. 100 90 100 200 ............. .. NOTt r .. UOlft.OtUC CINTIIU o, lll~OI AND LMIOONI Allll PlOTTID TO 114' ICALI, OUTLIIU OITAIU o, lllAkOI UO lAtOONI AU HAWN TO o•l•NALF MAP ICAll, ,. 111• ,._,. .... .. .. 140• .. ,. 141• .... ,.... ,,. .... 1••· ,.,. Vol. 10. December 1974 209 Thusly, the people of Satawal recorded the legendary beginnings and result of the first turtle's slow and laborious ascent onto land. There is no need for the rat's cunning today, however, for many turtles meet a similar fate as the people of Satawal patiently wait for turtles to nest on several uninhabited islands in the vicinity. Since 1969 I have lived in the island of Satawal and have accompanied the men of the island on numerous turtling expeditions via canoe to neighboring islands. Often, the older men lament the passing of the former "good times" of abundance. Although no quantitative information from the past is available, the previous five years have shown me that increased pressure on the turtles of the central Carolines is evident. Working with the U.S. Peace Corps and later the Marine Resources Division of the Trust Territory, I have been able to collect information on turtles from throughout the area. This in part, led to the establishment of an experimental turtle hatchery at West Fayu Atoll in 1972, and an on-going tagging program staff ed by volunteers from Satawal Ialand. General Description of Satawal and its Resource Islands As the easternmost inhabited island in Yap District of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, Satawal is situated at 7°2l 'N-147°02'E. A total land area of .505 square miles is covered with coconut palms and breadfruit trees, with a large taro patch in the center of the island insuring an adequate supply of food to the islands approximately 400 inhabitants. In contrast to the abundance of food on the island is the marked lack of reef fish. Since there is no lagoon, the fringing reef flat must provide most of the protein necessary for the Satawal diet. It is probably this scarcity of fish that has been one of the reasons that the people seek other sources of protein. One of the most impor tant sources has been the marine fauna of West Fayu atoll. The atoll of West Fayu is approximately 47 miles north-northwest of Satawa!. Situated at 80°5' N-146°44' E, the atoll contains one small island of approximately .024 square miles and is uninhabited except for the times when canoes from Satawal visit to fish and catch turtles. The lagoon is approximately two and one half miles long with depths of up to 22 fathoms. The main entrance to the lagoon is large enough to permit small ships and canoes to enter on the southeast side. In addition, there is another shallow entrance at the far western side which is navigable by canoes, but only during favorable weather. For an undetermined number of years, surely reaching back into the last century, the people of Satawa! have sailed to West Fayu and exploited the resources there. The conveyances used for the journey are the traditional breadfruit planked canoes which are still built and sailed in the central Carolines. These canoes are up to 28 feet in length and the largest of them are capable of transporting five or six mature turtles as well as a crew of up to ten or fifteen men. West Fayu is traditional ly linked to Satawal; all turtles and fish taken there are recognized as the property 210 Micronesica of all and are placed at the disposal of the chiefs of Satawa! for distribution among the inhabitants. Satawa!, in turn, is linked to Lamotrek and other islands to the west, stretching in a complex social and traditional political system that reaches to Yap, almost 600 miles to the west. In addition to West Fayu, the island of Pikelot 54 miles north-east at 8°05' N- 147038' E is also used as a resource island. Resembling Satawa! in that it only possesses a small fringing reef, it nonetheless is close to numerous banks and shoals and is exploited primarily for turtles. Some confusion might arise owing to the islanders' local names for these islands. Pikelot is known as Pik (pronounced peek) while West Fayu is referred to as Pigelo. In addition, the island of Gaferut at 9°14' N-145°23' E is called Fayu in the Central Carolines (Gafrut or Gafe,roor is a mythical island of local navigational lore.) Although a part of Yap District, Pikelot is exploited primarily by the people of Puluwat, Pulusuk, and Pulap-Tamatam of Truk District. However, the people and chiefs of Satawa! claim it as traditionally belonging to Satawa!. In fact, whenever canoes from the Truk District islands sail to Satawa!, they invariably stop first at Pikelot, winds permitting, and bring turtles to Satawa!. There are various reasons given for the relative lack of Satawa! voyages to Pikelot. The most probable is that it is directly in the path of the northeast trade winds, and requires a long and laborious journey. Oftentimes, it is impossible to land due to big waves and more than one canoe from Satawa! has met its end on the difficult landing ap proach. 2 In comparison to the relatively precarious landing at Pikelot, the lagoon at West Fayu with its easily-navigated passage offers a more hospitable place in which to anchor. Much less often visited by Satawa! canoes are the islands of Olimarao and Elato to the west. Olimarao is uninhabited and is exploted primarily by the people from Lamotrek and Elato. Satawal's traditionally subservient position to Lamotrek and to a lesser extent to Elato has meant less exploitation of Elato and Olimarao by the people of Satawa!. Olimarao is situated at 7°41' N-145°51' E, and is more than the day's sail that it takes to reach West Fayu from Satawa!.