The Alps 2007
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Gear Brands List & Lexicon
Gear Brands List & Lexicon Mountain climbing is an equipment intensive activity. Having good equipment in the mountains increases safety and your comfort level and therefore your chance of having a successful climb. Alpine Ascents does not sell equipment nor do we receive any outside incentive to recommend a particular brand name over another. Our recommendations are based on quality, experience and performance with your best interest in mind. This lexicon represents years of in-field knowledge and experience by a multitude of guides, teachers and climbers. We have found that by being well-equipped on climbs and expeditions our climbers are able to succeed in conditions that force other teams back. No matter which trip you are considering you can trust the gear selection has been carefully thought out to every last detail. People new to the sport often find gear purchasing a daunting chore. We recommend you examine our suggested brands closely to assist in your purchasing decisions and consider renting gear whenever possible. Begin preparing for your trip as far in advance as possible so that you may find sale items. As always we highly recommend consulting our staff of experts prior to making major equipment purchases. A Word on Layering One of the most frequently asked questions regarding outdoor equipment relates to clothing, specifically (and most importantly for safety and comfort), proper layering. There are Four basic layers you will need on most of our trips, including our Mount Rainier programs. They are illustrated below: Underwear -
Incontri Ravvicinati
Montagne360 La rivista del Club alpino italiano novembre 2015 € 3,90 ALLE PORTE DEL CIELO INCONTRI RAVViciNATI Il sogno himalayano A tu per tu con la favolosa fauna di un alpinista qualunque dell’Appennino centrale La GROTTA DI FUmaNE Alla ricerca dei primi uomini moderni del Club alpino italiano n. 38/2014. Poste Italiane Spa, sped. in abb. Post. - 45% 2 art. comma 20/b Post. - in legge 662/96 sped. Italiane abb. Filiale Spa, di Milano Poste del Club alpino italiano 38/2014. n. 3,90. Rivista mensile 3,90. € Montagne360. Novembre 2015, 2015, Novembre Montagne360. Editoriale Offerta riservata solo ai Soci orizzonti e orientamenti CLUB ALPINO ITALIANO Facciamo sentire la voce della montagne del P Abbonati mondo alla Conferenza sul clima Ormai ci siamo. Il 30 novembre partirà la Conferenza Parigi 2015 sul Clima, con lo sconto di oltre il COP21. Un’occasione da non perdere per far sentire la voce delle montagne del mondo. In un mio editoriale auspicavo una alleanza dei club alpini sul tema del contrasto ai cambiamenti climatici che vedesse il CAI, che è molto attivo su que- sto fronte, come motore propulsivo. A ulteriore conferma della proattività del CAI, mentre vi proponevo questa riflessione, il nostro Sodalizio, stava inviando all’UIAA (Union Internationale des Association d’Alpinisme) la proposta di in- serire nell’ordine del giorno dell’Assemblea generale di Seoul in Corea (20-24 ottobre 2015) l’adozione di una Delibera sul cambiamento climatico da parte delle Federazioni membri dell’Unione. Il CAI propone all’Assemblea, riprenden- do anche quanto espresso già nel 2013 da Mr. -
From Brunate to Monte Piatto Easy Trail Along the Mountain Side , East from Como
1 From Brunate to Monte Piatto Easy trail along the mountain side , east from Como. From Torno it is possible to get back to Como by boat all year round. ITINERARY: Brunate - Monte Piatto - Torno WALKING TIME: 2hrs 30min ASCENT: almost none DESCENT: 400m DIFFICULTY: Easy. The path is mainly flat. The last section is a stepped mule track downhill, but the first section of the path is rather rugged. Not recommended in bad weather. TRAIL SIGNS: Signs to “Montepiatto” all along the trail CONNECTIONS: To Brunate Funicular from Como, Piazza De Gasperi every 30 minutes From Torno to Como boats and buses no. C30/31/32 ROUTE: From the lakeside road Lungo Lario Trieste in Como you can reach Brunate by funicular. The tram-like vehicle shuffles between the lake and the mountain village in 8 minutes. At the top station walk down the steps to turn right along via Roma. Here you can see lots of charming buildings dating back to the early 20th century, the golden era for Brunate’s tourism, like Villa Pirotta (Federico Frigerio, 1902) or the fountain called “Tre Fontane” with a Campari advertising bas-relief of the 30es. Turn left to follow via Nidrino, and pass by the Chalet Sonzogno (1902). Do not follow via Monte Rosa but instead walk down to the sportscentre. At the end of the football pitch follow the track on the right marked as “Strada Regia.” The trail slowly works its way down to the Monti di Blevio . Ignore the “Strada Regia” which leads to Capovico but continue straight along the flat path until you reach Monti di Sorto . -
Area Notes 1993 COMPILED by ROY RUDDLE
Area Notes 1993 COMPILED BY ROY RUDDLE The Alps Lindsay Griffin Tibet and China J6zef Nyka Bhutan J6zef Nyka India Harish Kapadia Nepal Bill 0'Connor Pakistan Paul Nunn Central Asia J6zef Nyka North America H Adams Carter South America David Sharman Middle East Tony Howard New Zealand Richard Thompson LINDSAY GRIFFIN The Alps and Pyrenees 1993 In preparing these notes Lindsay Griffin would like to acknowledge the assist ance of Patrick Gabarrou, Alison Hargreaves, Mireille Lazarevitch, Neil McAdie, Giuseppe Miotti, Brendan Murphy, Michel Piola, Andres Lietha, Simon Richardson, Ian Roper, Franci Savenc, Pierre Tardivel, John Sumner, Dick Turnbull and Dave Wilkinson. He would welcome further information and any new route descriptions for publication in these pages at: 2 Top Sling, Tregarth, Bangor, Gwynedd LL57 4RL. The year saw AC members involved in several important winter as cents, a continuous crossing of all the 4000m peaks in the Alps, plus a fine series of first woman solo ascents. It also saw the demise of two outstanding continental activists: Romain Vogler, one of the greatest Swiss Alpine rock-climbers and full-time guide, died at the age of 34 in a rappelling accident on a crag at Maladiere. It appears that he was making a long rappel and had not set the ropes equally, his weight com ing on to a single strand as he neared the bottom. In May Fred Vimal, France's most promising young Alpinist, was killed whilst trying to solo a hard mixed free/aid route on the Grand Capucin. He was held by his ropes after a 20m fall, but appears to have hit his head and prob ably died of hypothermia. -
Traversée Des Pointes Lachenal 150 032 Triangle Du Tacul
031 Pointe Lachenal - Traversée des Pointes Lachenal 150 032 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Négri 152 PREFACE 5 033 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Grisolle 154 INTRODUCTION 6 034 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Mazeaud 156 GÉOGRAPHIE 10 035 Triangle du Tacul - Goulotte Chéré 158 NOTES TECHNIQUES 12 036 Mont Blanc du Tacul - Voie Normale 160 CONTACTS UTILES 18 037 Mont Maudit - Arête Est et Voie Normale en Boucle 162 uN ORNY-TRIENT 19 038 Mont Blanc - Voie des Trois Monts 164 001 Gendarme d’Orny - Voie Papa Paye 24 SEPT ST. GERVAIS-LES CONTAMINES 169 002 Aiguille de la Cabane - Voie du Bon Accueil 28 039 Mont Blanc - Voie Normale par l’Aiguille du Goûter et l’Arête des Bosses 176 003 Aiguille d’Orny - La Moquette 32 040 Aiguille de Bionnassay - Traversée des Arêtes Sud - Nord Est 179 004 Aiguilles Dorées - Couloir Copt 36 041 Dômes de Miage - Arête Mettrier au Dôme Oriental 183 005 Aiguille Sans Nom - Arête S et Demie Traversée des Aiguilles vers l’E 41 042 Dômes de Miage - Traversée des Dômes de Miage d’Est en Ouest 186 006 Tête Blanche - Face N 46 043 Aiguille Nord de Trélatête - Voie Normale de la Face NNO 189 DEuX BASSIN DU TOUR 49 HuiT VAL VENY-SEIGNE 191 007 Aiguille du Tour - Voie Normale à la Pointe S 54 044 Aiguille des Glaciers - Voie Normale de l’Arête Ouest 198 008 Aiguille du Tour - Coulouir de la Table 58 045 Dôme de Neige des Glaciers - Arête des Lanchettes 201 009 Aiguille du Chardonnet - Arête Forbes 60 046 Petit Mont Blanc - Voie Normale 204 010 Aiguille du Chardonnet - Éperon Migot 65 047 -
Toponymy of Climbing Space: Names Within the Polish Climbing Community
Toponymy of Climbing Space: Names Within the Polish Climbing Community Mariusz Rutkowski University of Warmia and Mazury Social groups create social space from geographic space in ways which are useful to their members. The nature of the social space can be approached through the names which are used to define it. A study of the names in the "climbing space" created by Polish climbers shows that they are l;lsed in ways which are meaningful only within the context of climbing and they serve to express group values and to promote group solidarity. The perception of mountains or more particularly the perception of the surrounding space, is conditioned by social as well as geographical factors; one important social factor is membership in a particular social group and engaging in the kinds of activies associated with it. Social groups have their own characteristic spatial activities, which determine the perception of space characteristic of them. This perception should be understood as a mental reflection of physical (objective) reality rather than as passive reception. The perception is a dynamic process in which a group delineates space, which results in the creation of a particular kind of social space (Lefebvre 1974). Creation of space is understood in its cultural and symbolic meaning, and not as creation of physical spatial forms (e.g., buildings), but as distinguishing from the surround- ing reality such objects as may be attributed to a specific type of activity. 1 Therefore, social space can be defined as symbolic space, perceived and mentally processed by a particular group, and the creation of such an understood social space is a prerequisite for successfully realizing the activities which are important to that group. -
Stage De Perfectionnement À L'alpinisme À Chamonix(AA535)
AA535 Stage de perfectionnement à l'Alpinisme à Chamonix (AA535) Alpes du Nord - France 5 jours (dont 5 jours : Alpinisme) Prix à partir de775.00 EUR p.p. Niveau Type Accompagné Age minimum 18 ans Portage Affaire pour deux ou plusieurs jours Hébergement Gîte Refuge Groupe de 4 à 6 personnes Repas Pension complète Encadrement Guide de haute montagne Les points forts de ce voyage - Un apprentissage complet des techniques d'alpinisme. - Une pédagogie adaptée pour évoluer en sécurité en haute montagne. - Les décors prestigieux de Chamonix et sa région. - Deux nuits en haute montagne, en refuge. TREK AVENTURE Agence trekking (Licence 191913) 25, Bohey - L-9647 DONCOLS Tél.: (BE) +32 61 24 04 10 (FR) +33 1 81 22 12 40 (LU) + 352 20 33 12 25 Document généré le 03/10/2021/ à 06/31 AA535 Votre voyage Ce séjour permet de mieux appréhender des excursions demandant un minimum de connaissances en alpinisme. C'est également l'occasion de côtoyer les glaciers et les parois mythiques de la vallée de Chamonix,... Un stage très complet pour découvrir la haute montagne, améliorer ses techniques, acquérir les bons réflexes, pour s'aventurer hors des sentiers battus sur les glaciers et réaliser des courses de rocher faciles. Notre camp de base, idéalement situé au c½ur de la capitale chamoniarde, permet de réaliser des courses à la journée et de retrouver le soir l'ambiance chaleureuse des ruelles animées de la ville. J 1 à J2 / école de neige et de glace - glacier du Tour, refuge Albert 1er /plateau et refuge du Trient Rendez-vous à 10 heures devant la gare ferroviaire de Montroc. -
031 Pointe Lachenal
031 Pointe Lachenal - Pointe Lachenal Traverse 150 032 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Négri 152 PREFACE 5 033 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Grisolle 154 INTRODUCTION 6 034 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Mazeaud 156 GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION 10 035 Triangle du Tacul - Goulotte Chéré 158 TECHNICAL INFORMATION 12 036 Mont Blanc du Tacul - Normal Route 160 USEFUL CONTACTS 18 037 Mont Maudit - Tour of the East Ridge 162 ONE ORNY - TRIENT 19 038 Monte Bianco - Three monts Traverse 164 001 Gendarme d’Orny - Papa Paye Route 24 SEVEN ST. GERVAIS - LES CONTAMINES 169 002 Aiguille de la Cabane - Voie du Bon Accueil 28 039 Monte Bianco - Normal Route via the Aiguille du Gouter and the Bosses Ridge 176 003 Aiguille d’Orny - La Moquette 32 040 Aiguille de Bionnassay - Ridge Traverse 179 004 Aiguilles Dorées - Copt Couloir 36 041 Dômes de Miage - Mettrier Ridge to the East Dome 183 005 Aiguille Sans Nom - S Arête and half traverse of the Aiguilles to the E 41 042 Dômes de Miage - Traverse from East to West 186 006 Tête Blanche - N Face 46 043 Aiguille Nord de Trélatête - Normal Route of the NNW Face 189 TWO TOUR BASIN 49 EIGHT VAL VENY - SEIGNE 191 007 Aiguille du Tour - Normal Route to the S Peak 54 044 Aiguille des Glaciers - Normal Route 198 008 Aiguille du Tour - Couloir de la Table 58 045 Dôme de Neige des Glaciers - Lanchettes Ridge 201 009 Aiguille du Chardonnet - Forbes Arête 60 046 Petit Mont Blanc - Normal Route 204 010 Aiguille du Chardonnet - Éperon Migot 65 047 Aiguille Est di Trélatête - East Ridge 206 THREE -
TARIF Des Courses 2009 Pour
Tarif des courses 2009 en engagement privé de la Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix. Traditionnelle par excellence, cette formule est la plus souple pour parcourir la haute montagne. En rapport avec votre niveau et les conditions du moment, votre guide vous proposera un programme de courses adapté. Le tarif d’une course est établi, en fonction de la longueur, la difficulté et surtout l’engagement de la course, pour 1 personne ou 2 personnes suivant l’itinéraire. Le tarif est l’honoraire du guide il ne comprend pas les frais de refuges ou de remontées mécaniques. Difficulté : En face de chaque course un nombre d’étoiles allant de 0 à 5 étoiles est mis pour «coter» la course par rapport à sa difficulté pure (technique, longueur et engagement).Cette difficulté peut bien-sur variée suivant les conditions. Le nombre d’étoiles n’a en aucun cas un rapport avec l’intérêt et la beauté de la course. LES GRANDES COURSES Les grandes courses sont un rêve pour tous et sont différentes pour chacun ! Tout est fonction de son niveau, ses goûts, ses aspirations… Le tarif d’une course est fonction de sa longueur, sa difficulté technique et de son engagement. Plus la course est «importante», plus ces paramètres varient donc passé un certain niveau de course, une fourchette est donnée pour avoir un ordre de grandeur. Mais le tarif «final» ne pourra être décidé que par le guide après la course, face aux conditions rencontrées, le temps mis… Fourchette 1 . …. De 900 à 1200 euros Fourchette 2 . .. De 1100 à 1400 euros Fourchette 3 . -
Les Clochers D'arpette
31 Les Clochers d’Arpette Portrait : large épaule rocheuse, ou tout du moins rocailleuse, de 2814 m à son point culminant. On trouve plusieurs points cotés sur la carte nationale, dont certains sont plus significatifs que d’autres. Quelqu’un a fixé une grande branche à l’avant-sommet est. Nom : en référence aux nombreux gendarmes rocheux recouvrant la montagne sur le Val d’Arpette et faisant penser à des clochers. Le nom provient surtout de deux grosses tours très lisses à 2500 m environ dans le versant sud-est (celui du Val d’Arpette). Dangers : fortes pentes, chutes de pierres et rochers à « varapper » Région : VS (massif du Mont Blanc), district d’Entremont, commune d’Orsières, Combe de Barmay et Val d’Arpette Accès : Martigny Martigny-Combe Les Valettes Champex Arpette Géologie : granites du massif cristallin externe du Mont Blanc Difficulté : il existe plusieurs itinéraires possibles, partant aussi bien d’Arpette que du versant opposé, mais il s’agit à chaque fois d’itinéraires fastidieux et demandant un pied sûr. La voie la plus courte et relativement pas compliquée consiste à remonter les pentes d’éboulis du versant sud-sud-ouest et ensuite de suivre l’arête sud-ouest exposée (cotation officielle : entre F et PD). Histoire : montagne parcourue depuis longtemps, sans doute par des chasseurs. L’arête est fut ouverte officiellement par Paul Beaumont et les guides François Fournier et Joseph Fournier le 04.09.1891. Le versant nord fut descendu à ski par Cédric Arnold et Christophe Darbellay le 13.01.1993. Spécificité : montagne sauvage, bien visible de la région de Fully et de ses environs, et donc offrant un beau panorama sur le district de Martigny, entre autres… 52 32 L’Aiguille d’Orny Portrait : aiguille rocheuse de 3150 m d’altitude, dotée d’aucun symbole, mais équipée d’un relais d’escalade. -
Ski Mountaineering Gear List Antarctica Adventure & Ski Cruise
2021 SKI MOUNTAINEERING GEAR LIST ANTARCTICA ADVENTURE & SKI CRUISE This is an extensive list that will allow for a participant to access the most extreme of terrain. Please contact Ice Axe with any questions. We do not provide gear rentals and suggest you contact your local gear shop should you need to rent any equipment. ALPINE TOURING (AT) BOOTS, SKIS & BINDINGS AT Boots – all purpose, long tours Scarpa Maestrale 1.0 Dynafit TLT8 Mountain CR Salomon MTN Lab Dalbello Quantum Free 130 AT Skis – approximately 90-105mm under foot is recommended. Black Diamond Carbon Aspect K2 Wayback 96 Dynafit Denali AT Tech Bindings (works only on boots with Tech fittings, i.e. Dynafit. Recommended.) Dynafit TLT Radical ST Marker Kingpin 10 AT Black Diamond Fritschi Vipec 12 AT Frame Bindings (works with all AT or Alpine boots) Fritschi Freeride Pro Marker Tour F12 EPF AT Marker Alpinist 12 TELEMARK (Tele) BOOTS, SKIS & BINDINGS (Alternative to Alpine Touring) Tele Boots – Scarpa T2 Eco Telemark Boot Tele Binding – Voile Switchback Tele Skis - Voile V6 Ski CLIMBING SKINS (AT or Tele) – Pre-cut or cut-to-fit. A tip/tail attachment is helpful for the cold temperatures. Black Diamond Glide Lite G3 Expedition Skins Dynafit Denali Speedskin (only fits Dynafit Denali skis) SPLITBOARD SET-UP Ski brakes or leashes recommended for glacier travel. Hard shell boots are preferred for use with boot crampons or hiking on firm snow. Ski poles – adjustable length (optional). Climbing skins (snowshoes and/or booting is discouraged for long tours). Releasable bindings may increase your chances of surviving an avalanche. -
Annapurna-2013-Steck
ANNAPURNA 1, South face, Ueli Steck, 8-9 October 2013 By Rodolphe Popier FACTS EXAMINATION and ANALYSIS p4 1/ Objective indirect elements of proofs p4 11/ Lights: p4 Sherpas’ statements p4 Contradicting other members’ statements p5 12/ Tracks: p9 13/ Remnants of tracks found by second team on the route: p11 2/ Timings and conditions P12 21/ A 21st century speed ascent! P12 211/ A global lack of precision in the produced data p12 212/ A speed overview essay p16 213/ Comparative speeds of Steck with 2 other teams p19 22/ Atmospheric and mountain conditions comparison p21 3/ Accounts and contradictions p26 31/ A new official German version following the 2014 Piolet d’Or award p26 32/ 4 different summit accounts P27 33/ 2 versions for the camera’s loss: p29 First version: at 6700m at 15h? p29 Second version: 7000m, after having searched for a bivy spot at the foot of the headwall? P30 34/ A varying number of abseils p32 4/ Further miscellaneous points p35 41/ The SMS / Sat phone p35 42/ In an almost “Olympic shape” after 28 hours of climbing P36 43/ Headwall details discussed with Graziani & Benoist p37 One of the very few in-depth studies, unpublished in its entirety so far, about the climb of Ueli Steck was led by Andreas Kubin, former Chief Editor of Bergsteiger for 25 years. This study is primarily based on his work, checking again his own conclusions and completing it with my own findings. Eberhard Jurgalski originally suggested me to do that study. I didn’t contact Ueli Steck regarding any facts on Annapurna 1.