BANGKOK 65 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Jim Thompson's House Chatuchak Weekend Market Wat Pho WET SEASON: MAY-OCTOBER WET SEASON: „

BANGKOK 65 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Jim Thompson's House Chatuchak Weekend Market Wat Pho WET SEASON: MAY-OCTOBER WET SEASON: „

( p108 ) ( p87 ), ( p87 ), ( p83 ), ( p83 ), ( p98 ) in Wat Pho Wat Pho sky-high sundowner Thai cuisine Thai Jim Thompson’s House Jim Thompson’s Chatuchak Weekend Market Chatuchak Weekend Market ( p102 ) and unbeatable sunset views. p102 ( vast rooftop bars for a best food cities. what is one of Asia’s one of the best-preserved examples of examples of one of the best-preserved arttraditional Thai and architecture with its serene reclining Buddha, then Buddha, then reclining with its serene finding yourself a massage Stocking at the up on exotic souvenirs lift to one of Bangkok’s unique the Taking delicious Eating Getting lost in quirky Touring DRY SEASON: NOVEMBER-APRIL DRY „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS „ „

For the visitor, the impact is immediate. Your first move is likely to be joining the ca- Your first move For the visitor, the impact is immediate. kickIf all you want to do is will seem on a peaceful beach, at first glance Bangkok back „ Unlike Thailand’s famously chilled islands and beaches, there’s something about Bangkok Bangkok about something beaches, there’s chilled islands and famously Unlike Thailand’s and seemingly chaotic big, crowded, polluted This fails to get the blood pumping. that never you wouldn’t call it boring. mega-city is many things to many people, but Asian around – almost eight million people cophonous arteries of metal that pump – just barely with alive are and waterways you look the streets Everywhere biggest city. the region’s food mouth-watering Schoolkids create vendors run without sweating, smiling commuters. malls… in push-away kitchens, with fashionistas in air-conditioned shoulders rub bare monks riding in the back of its roguish Bangkok’s famous golden temples, Whether it’s in one of or just walking will happen at the something odd and inexplicable down the street, túk-túk Hey, was that an elephant with a tail light? time. most unexpected of sea But once you tire of palm trees. towers instead like a transit burden full of concrete With its mix pace. and breakneck Bangkok’s conveniences appreciate you’ll better breezes, eating on and some of the most delicious and best-value of the historic and contemporary, earth, in Asia. one of the most invigorating the City of Angels is surely Bangkok BANGKOK But when the Bangkok stockmarket But whentheBangkok collapsed skylinegreweconomy andBangkok’s rapidly. born. Duringthe1980sand‘90sThailand’s Vietnam anditsreputation as‘sincity’was in forAmericantroopsfighting R&R base protesters. student tions have massacring endedinthemilitary occasions massdemonstra- and onseveral ous politicalructionswere notsopeaceful of previ- protestsHowever, inthecapital. without ashot beingfired followingmonths Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra ousted 2006, saw ernment. Thelatest, inSeptember of which halfhave resulted inachange of gov- 19coupattempts, haswitnessed half Bangkok political era. From1932tothepresent day, monarchy and thebeginningsof aturbulent increase theirinfluencein the region. to thecitynegotiate tradecontractsand styles andarchitecture. Europeansflocked adopting andintegrating Western customs, andthecountrybegantomodernise, Bangkok and hisson V(KingChulalongkorn), Rama Under Ratanakosin. IV(King Mongkut) Rama rapidly aroundtheroyalcompoundatKo ering newtemples andthecityexpanded wereand Sukhothai re-enshrined intow- Makok (current-day Bangkok). across theriver tothemodestvillage of Bang dynasty ( p24 ) andpromptlymoved hiscapital But in1782King IfoundedtheChakri Rama of Mae NamChaoPhraya (ChaoPhraya River). atThonburi,onthewestbank the Thaicapital ( by theBurmese p24 ), KingTaksin established invention. of Followingthesacking Ayuthaya As citiesgo, capital isafairlyrecent Bangkok HISTORY 66 During the 1970s, Bangkok becameanDuring the1970s,Bangkok In 1932 Bangkok saw theendof saw absoluteIn 1932Bangkok Buddhist relics fromAyuthaya,Thonburi Krung Thep (City ofAngels). Not surprisingly,most Thais abbreviate itto visnukamprasit’. avatansathit sakkathattiya amonpiman udomratchaniwet mahasathan hadilok popnopparatratchathaniburirom ayuthaya ma- amon rattanakosinmahintara of thecapitalis‘Krungthepmahanakhon of thecapitalin1782.The fullofficialtitle name ofavillagethatpre-dates thearrival Makok, meaning‘PlaceofOlive Plums’,the The nameBangkokis derived fromBang WHAT’S YOURNAME AGAIN? AGO • Hsoy BANGKOK ••History Ratanakosin occupyingaman-made island Ratanakosin Phraya, withtheoriginalroyalcentre of Ko number of luxury hotels. ing skyscrapers, shoppingmallsandagrowing which isdominated‘new Bangkok’, bytower- the royalpalacesandhistorictemples, and two areas: which hasmostof ‘oldBangkok’, todividethecityinto it makeshowever, sense different districts.Forthesake of simplicity, have distinctly does several But thecapital todiscernanyrealmake centre. itdifficult first. Concrete towers asfartheeyecansee the urbanchaos canbepretty intimidatingat isavastsprawlingmessofBangkok acityand place. enjoyable all madethecityaless-congested andmore Suvarnabhumi International Airport,have Skytrain andMetro urbanrailwaysandthe line. infrastructure Large projects, such asthe apace andcranesare prominentonthesky- constructionisprogressingsluggishness, andeconomic following the2006coupd’etat city’ itsowantstobe. Despite theuncertainty ern Asian metropolis,ifnotquite the‘world bitthemod- bounced backandisnowevery of theregion groundtoan economic halt. most in 1997thecity,countryandindeed Phraya. Runningeast fromthisroadare Th along the eastern edge of Mae Nam Chao KrungrunssouthfromChinatown Charoen City of Angels interms of itsmainstreets. Th flyovers. It’sbesttothinkof thispartof the by massive congested andsoaring highways unfathomable amountsof concrete, divided isamoderncreationBangkok’ andquite direction,for atleast20kminevery ‘new the maintrainstation of Hualamphong. Phahurat Chinatown,near andBangkok’s is hometotheIndianneighbourhood of The riverside districtsouthof KoRatanakosin isDusit,thenewroyaldistrict. Ratanakosin ing localartandbarscene. Northeastof Ko travellers’ centre withanincreas- inBangkok the royalcourt.Todayit’smainbudget andmemberswas onceahometoofficials of one of oldestneighbourhoods and Bangkok’s Thisis isBanglamphu. on KoRatanakosin, bank. Tothenorthof theroyaldistrict,still asasuburbonthewest Thonburi nowserving ofon theeastbankandformercapital ORIENTATION Surrounding theoldcityandstretching straddlestheMaeOld Bangkok NamChao After has some rockyyears, Bangkok lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com and Chatuchak Weekend Market. Tomaster panels forChinatown, ThSukhumvit inset a colourfulhand-drawn mapwithuseful of Bangkok equalledis but never worth yourmoney.Onethatisoften imitated they shouldbe good enough. you’re planningtoexplore off thebeaten track andutter rubbish, useful butunless between it –Thailandisfullof them.Qualityvaries to yourfirst used freeyou’ll see maps. Get after you’ve immigration– ally right passed From the momentyouenter Thailand–liter- Maps toislandand flights beach destinations. north andhasalotof (butnotall) domestic the oldDonMuangairportisabout 25km Airport isabout 30km eastof thecentre, while expensive eastof Soi 21 (Soi Asoke). beforestart, becomingmore sophisticated and reputation atits andaratherseedy taurants ofEast here hostshotels, res- ThSukhumvit Square shoppingdistricts. andThPloenchit you’ll reach IandtheSiam ThPhra Ram and along ThPhayathai orThRatchadamri and consulates tothe hotel mix. and thenThSathon,which addsembassies centres of andaneye-poppingdose sleaze, are linedwithhotels, restaurants, shopping andThSilom,which Surawong (Surwongse) There thatare are mapsforsale alsoseveral SuvarnabhumiInternationalBangkok’s Head northof theSilomneighbourhood In twodaysyoucanexplore Bangkok’sfamoussights:the Two Days BANGKOK IN… With more inavisittothe time,factor Four Days Arun ( p83); to traditionalThai architecture. Take inthesunsetfromoneof Erawan Shrine finding somewhere withbetter foodforalotlessmoneydinner. centres t’aichi.Then withavisittotheshoppingsee thelocalspractising chaseawaytheheatstroke and take the and take fashionable restaurants orclubs,suchas or theferry. After toexperiencemodernBangkokatoneofthe dark,headtoTh Sukhumvit Mansion Museum juggle thisplantofitinthe ( p84 ). Ifyou are jetlaggedondaytwo,getupearlyandheadto Wat Pho

on Th Phra IandTh Ram Ploenchit.Don’tforget tofollowtheThai crowdstothebusy (www.nancychandler.net; 250B), BANGKOK••Information Chinatown ( p86 ). Intheafternoon, visit ( p83 ), hometothelargest reclining BuddhainThailand; andmissile-shaped ( p85 ), builtentirely fromgoldenteak, andgetoutontheriver inalong-tail Nancy Chandler’s Map

Walking Tour Walking Chatuchak WeekendMarket National Museum Bed Supperclub ( p88 ). Take adetouruptoDusitsee Jim Thompson’s House 26 &28,Th Sukhumvit). Used books galore. San& 127ThTanao,Plaza, 68-70 ThKhao Banglamphu) 4th fl,ThPhra I) Ram Soi15); Th Sukhumvit, Shaman Bookstore Kinokuniya Dasa BookCafé Books Asia include: bookshops they’re notallthatcheap). Recommended verse range of titlesinthecountry(though Sanhave onThKhao those themostdi- areas alsohave bookstores, second-hand and .bookazine.co.th) Kinokuniya has branches of other languages. major Virtuallyevery mall new titlesinEnglishand,lessoften,selling iswell-stockedBangkok withbookshops Bookshops investmentwise for 250B. Thinknet’s Bangkok, of Bangkok’s noshing neighbourhoods. mapped mom-and-poprestaurants inthree Ideal Map’s check out consider eatingtobesightseeing, Bangkok BusMap the city’sbussystem, Roadway’s purchase 4th fl,SiamParagon, ThPhra I) Rama 3rd fl,622ThSukhumvit); INFORMATION If travelling todistrictsoutsidecentral ( p103 ). Ifyou’re here ontheweekend ( p84 ) thenthe ( p108) (www.asiabook.com) (www.asiabook.com)

Grand Palace ( (www.kinokuniya.com) % and/or (Map (Map p82 ; Good Eats 0 22559834) sky-high bars (Map (Map pp74-5 ; Siam DiscoveryCenter Asia Books Asia ( p87 ) foranintroduction (150B).Forvisitors who SiamParagon Lumphini Park B2S amulet market Bangkok City Atlas %

(www.b2s.co.th) & WatPhra Kaew series, which has series, Emporium 0 26612993;btwnSoi Soi 15

% (www.asiabook.com) , 12) before ( p102), (Map (Map pp80-1 ; Bookazine 0 26290418;D&D Mp p2; 221 p82; (Map Vimanmek Mp p82; (Map (Map (Map pp80-1 ; ( p87) (p86), . Tourist Wat

(www to

67 is a

, BANGKOK BANGKOK BANGKOK 8.30am-noon Sat). Sathon Tai, 507SoiSuanPhlu; e 42 o details. for p402 See pagesthe photoandvisa onyourpassport. sions require twophotosandaphotocopyof regular police. asabilingualliaisonwiththe scams. Itcanalsoact includinggem involvingtourists, unit thathandlescrime multimedia.com) is nowabusiness paper ing and events. The ing andevents. as articlesonculture, din- entertainment, with localandinternational newsaswell kokpost.net) isthe major dailybroadsheet, guage media. The English-lan- haswell-established Bangkok Media chains such asGloriaJean and Starbucks. able inagrowingnumberof cafés,including before youmake abooking.Free wi-fi isavail- rageous insometop-endplaces;check rates from free (inmanymidrange places)toout- of thelobby. Pricesare alsodiverse, ranging room wi-fi toalonelymachine inthecorner offers of somelevel internet access,fromin- and inallthebig shopping centres. andThSilom, terminals alongThSukhumvit find independentinternet cafésorguesthouse fewer have CD-burning capabilities. You’ll camerafiles,but also printanduploaddigital common elsewhere. Mostinternet caféscan at about40Banhour;60Bto120Bhouris some of thecheapest rates intown,starting Sanandaroundhaveexample, ThKhao neighbourhoods. For similar withincertain are generally pretty cheap, andcharges are haven’t recommended specificplaces.Rates a coffee). Internet caféscomeandgosowe you canget onlinefree (orforthepriceof cafés andplentyof wi-fi hotspotswhere hasliterally hundredsBangkok of internet Internet Access Immigration Office extensions orapplications,visitthe For visa Immigration Police Tourist English. Police Fire listed underMedical Services ( right ). For an ambulance, calloneof thehospitals Emergency 68 Almost every hotelAlmost every listed inthischapter ( % AGO • Ifrain BANGKOK ••Information ( % 199) 191) OrdinaryThaipolicedon’tusuallyspeak ( % Mostapplicationsandexten- 1155; Mp pp72-3; (Map Bangkok Post h Nation h 24hr) An English-speaking 24hr) AnEnglish-speaking 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, % 0 22873101-10;Th (www.nation (www.bang 1000-07; www.bkkchristianhosp.th.com; 124 1000-07; www.bkkchristianhosp.th.com; Th Silom) banks; these canchangebanks; these cash andcheques in find smallmoney-exchange counters outside San,you’lloftenping districtandThKhao tourist areas, such astheSiamSquare shop- linked totheCirrusandPlusnetworks.In upcashforaccounts many willalsocough accept major international credit cardsand –they’reBangkok everywhere. ATMs Bank aguidetofindanATMYou won’tneed in Money Hospital Bumrungrad International BNH Hospital Bangkok Hospital Hospital Bangkok Christian emergencies. dental tourism’. Theycanalsohandlemedicaland become major centres of elective ‘medical in theregion have andthe better hospitals istheleadinghealth-careBangkok centre Services Medical magazines. international Tribune called published inconjunctionwithafree paper more Internet cafésoften details. alsohave their way tomake international calls; see p399 for this orsimilarprograms are easilythecheapest Many internet caféshave Bangkok Skypeand Telephone pp74–5). (Map Klang,justeastof ThTanaoRatchadamnoen and onthealleyimmediately northof Th opposite WatBowonniwet(Map pp74–5 ), ( Tha Si Phraya. get here isviaChao Phraya express boatto valuables viaregular mail. The easiestwayto moneyor the mainbuilding.Donotsend include poste restante andpackagingwithin Th CharoenKrung; atthehuge Services Post about 9amor10amto 8pm daily. major currencies andare typicallyopen from Th Sukhumvit) % .bnhhospital.com; 9Th Convent) Bangkapi) Tat 2Soi47,ThPhetburi www.bangkokhospital.com; Mai, h There are convenient 0 26671000;www.bumrungrad.com;33Soi3, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSat) 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, Daily Xpress iswidelyavailable, asare allmajor Mp pp78-9; (Map h Mp pp70-1; (Map 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pmSat&Sun) 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, . The main postoffice % International Herald Mp pp78-9; (Map post officebranches 0 26862700;www % on Th Rambutri, onThRambutri, lonelyplanet.com 0 23103000; Mp p82; (Map Mp pp78-9; (Map

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them. Staff canalso‘unlock’ them. Staff phones here. Center; Map Center; Map pp80-1 I) ; 4thfl,ThPhraRam wheeled motorcycle)drivers,wheeled apublic use For long-distance calls. pp80-1; a newmobile phone, tion onmobilephones,see p399 . Ifyouneed .yellowpages.co.th) canbehandy.Forinforma- and Australia. Theonline about 10Baminute toEurope,NorthAmerica own phoneswithcompetitive rates, at starting lonelyplanet.com Bangkok Tourist Division Bangkok Tourist andtheatres;nightclubs it costs 100B. and handyreviews of restaurants, sights, .bangkok101.com), which hasphotofeatures .com), andthemonthly ent weekly pendent publications:thefree andirrever- in town,there are twogood-qualityinde- happy hours, banddates andwhich DJsare Bangkok Post. lifestyle intheFridayeditionof insert the part of theirnametolure in commissions. tion andneartouristcentres co-optTAT as be aware thattravel agents inthetrainsta- fices donotmake travel arrangements. Also of- city-specific information.Note thatthese TouristDivisionfor mation, andBangkok tourism matters: TAT forcountrywideinfor- hastwoorganisations thathandle Bangkok Tourist Information throne. a tofind–expectbegreeteddifficult by squattoiletsaremodern Bangkok positively centres have In toiletsforthedisabled. 1B to2Bforavisit;somenewershopping restaurant. Shopping centres charge might toilet inashopping centre, hotel orfast-food the túk-túk(pronounced againstatreeIf youdon’twanttopee like Toilets Telephone ofThailand Organization the main post office. Small, quiet,air-conditionedinternationalcallcentre outside pp78-9; ofThailand Communications Authority for the symbol of a mahout on for thesymbol ofamahout an elephant. aroundtownare lessuseful,butdohavemaps. Look kiosks ised withhundreds ofbrochures andfree booklets. Green south ofSaphanPhraPinklao, it’sfantasticallywell organ- h 17ThPhraAthit; 7612-4; www.bangkoktourist.com; Targeting theyoungones, 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat&Sun)Immediately 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, % % 0 26141000;ThCharoenKrung; 0 22511111;ThPloenchit;SkytrainChitlom) BK Magazine Fornewrestaurants, current BANGKOK••Dangers&Annoyances MBK Mp pp74-5; (Map (Mahboonkrong Shopping (Mahboonkrong Bangkok 101 (www.bkmagazine Yellow Pages đ úk hasmillionsof (TOT; Map Map (TOT; đ h % Guru (CAT; Map úk; three- 8am-8pm) 8am-8pm) 0 2225 (www (www isa .com; 14thfl,WallStreet Tower,33/70ThSurawong; Silom) 2134 4077; 2nd fl, btwn Gate 2& 2134 4077;2ndfl,btwnGate 5; the bo Nok &ThChakrapatdipong; pp74-5; (Map .diethelm-travel.com; 140/1 Th Withayu, Kian .diethelm-travel.com; 140/1ThWithayu,Kian Gwan Bldg) almost certainly betryingtoconyou.Don’t almost certainly your newandexotic Thaifriend,theywill where thanbecoming you’re going.Rather proach youaskingwhere you’re fromand see p108 formore on buying gems. attempt youfromyourmoney– toseparate a gem shop willalwaysresult inadrawn-out The offer of acheap ride withashort stop at ‘gem orpromotionsat souvenir sales’ shops. túk-túk drivers foreigners whosteer towards The mostcommonconartistsare and thetaxi Scams down trees (tempting asit may seem). (at leastinfrontof thebrown-suits) orcut you. Don’tlitter cigarette (even butts), jaywalk whocanpaythefine. Thatmeans on those the policediscriminately rules enforcecertain theboxedinformation, see text, p83 . which willbetacked ontoyourbill.Formore in exchange foracommission, thecostof lure foreigners shops intojewelleryandtailor Most of thescamsinvolve toutswhotryto many of whomspecificallytarget foreigners. lion, hasitsfairshareBangkok of conartists, As expectforacityof mil- youmight seven DANGERS &ANNOYANCES STA Travel Diethelm Travel insteadstations of travel agents. busandtrainticketslong-distance directly at it’sbesttobuy scams information.Generally, theboxedto bescams;see text, p83formore cheap tickets totheislandswilloften prove tickets willusuallybeOK,butunbelievably plenty of sharks outthere sobecareful. Flight ily discounted planetickets, butthere are streets where touristsgatheroften offer heav- Travel agents Sanandother alongThKhao Travel Agencies TAT 1600 Phetburi Tat1600 Phetburi Mai; thailand.org) Although the city may seem entirely thecitymayseem lawless, Although waryof smartlydressed menwhoap- Be Reliable agents include: (for assistance8am-8pm xing stadium; (Map (Map pp78-9 ; Head Office % 0 2283 1555; cnr Th Ratchadamnoen 0 22831555;cnrThRatchadamnoen (Map (Map pp72-3 ; Suvarnabhumi InternationalAirport h Mp pp72-3; (Map % 8.30am-4.30pm); h % 0 22360262;www.statravel (Continued on page 83) page on (Continued 8.30am-4.30pm) opposite % 1672; www.tourism h 0 22559150;www % 8am-4pm). 0 22505500; Banglamphu ( %

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BANGKOK BANGKOK 70 BANGKOK •• Greater Bangkok lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com BANGKOK •• Greater Bangkok 71 BANGKOK

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Soi 39 (Phrompong) 37 3 Khao San,theGrandPalaceKhao and Wat Pho. mers includearoundtheErawanShrine, Th women! Popularhuntinggroundsforscam- hasplentyof –Bangkok trustworthy con automatically assumethatfemale Thaisare lonelyplanet.com Na PhraLan;admissiontoboth&DusitPark 250B; and the Kaew Phra Thailand’s mostfamousattractionsare ; yfritcdh;!rit}skik(;y' PALACE GRAND & KAEW PHRA WAT andfineviewsofshophouses the river. and are filledwithhistoricwát,atmospheric twodistrictsareThese intheoldpartof Bangkok Ko Ratanakosin&Thonburi district. hotel Dusit, allof which abuttheBanglamphu Thonburiandnearby on KoRatanakosin, try. Many are conveniently concentrated sive wát(temples) andpalacesinthecoun- ishometosomeofcapital themostimpres- while you’re in Fortunately, theBangkok. inafew soit’swellworthtaking ‘sights’, ticularly well-stocked withtraditional Thai Thailand’s islandsandbeaches are notpar- SIGHTS (Continued from page 69) page from (Continued

„ „ „ „ of gemscams,see p390 . in yourfootsteps. As agift tofuture visitors,stopthescamcyclebyjustsaying‘no’.Fordetails off negligible sums. Butdiligencetofairandhonestbusinessbenefitsthetravellers whofollow If yourtravel fundsare abother to resist ample,itmightseemlike thevariousscamsthatsiphon JUST SAY NO:BANGKOKSCAMS

valuables with youonthebus. How generous. This scamhasbeen runningforyearsbutiseasytoavoid simplybycarrying ries. Onetraveller reported that hisstolencredit cardwasusedtopay forthetrip’spetrol. bags, searchingthrough hidingplacesandstealing credit andeven cards, electronics toilet- thieves have into(andlater hourstocombthroughyourbags,breaking locked re-sealing) Tourist busestothesouth an honestdriver. If thedriver has‘forgotten’ toputthemeter on,justsay‘meter, very, very reasonable meter rate. beyond thetouristarea willusuallyhelpinfinding Walking 150B forin-towndestinations),whichwill usuallybethree timesmore expensive thanthe Flat-fare taxiride gem andtailorshopsthatpaycommissions. tous scam.These alleged‘tours’bypassall thesightsandinstead cruisetoallthefly-by-night Túk-túk rides for10B dhist holidayorforcleaning. These are set-ups fortrips toabogusgemsale. Closed today Grand Palace (Temple of theEmeraldBuddha) BANGKOK••Sights – Ignore any‘friendly’localwhotells isclosedforaBud- youthatanattraction Mp pp74-5; (Map –Flatlyrefuse anydriver who quotes aflatfare (usuallybetween100B and –Saygoodbyetoyourday’sitineraryifyouclimbaboardthisubiqui-

% –Onthelongjourneysouth,well-organised andconnected 0 22226889;Th h 8.30am- Wat .watpho.com; ThSanamChai;Tharawat;admission50B; (Wat PhraChetuphon;Map pp72-3 ; largestBangkok’s andoldesttemple, ; yfFrTç WAT PHO I)takeof MBK,ThPhra Ram bus 47. to ThaChang.FromtheSiamSqarea (infront Sanam Luang,orbyChaoPhraya express boat viaa short walksouthfromBanglamphu, the GrandPalace are bestreached eitherby ignore anyoneoutside. WatPhra Kaew and seasons. changing by theKing(orcrownprince)tomark ofsets robes, which are ceremonially changed since. ever Theimagein Bangkok hasthree before itwaswonbackin1778andhasbeen of war. Itspentmore than200years inLaos but hasrepeatedly ahigh-profile spoil been the 15thcentury.Theimage isonly66cmhigh made of nephrite jade–dates backtoatleast called Emerald Buddha(Phra Kaew) –actually structures are open to the public. Only theexterior façadesof theGrandPalace beings andincredible amountsof goldinlay. of(Thai-style stupas),ornate statues mythical buildings are extravagant, withgolden compound southof SanamLuang. Thetemple 3.30pm) Guides canbehired attheticket kiosk; Housed inthemain Housed , occupying the same expansive, occupyingthesame walled bòht % (chapel), the so- kráp/kâ’. 0 26223533;www Wat Pho Pho Wat chedi 83

BANGKOK BANGKOK BANGKOK h admission20B; 2891 1149;www.watarun.org; ThArun Amarin; This striking ;yfvi=IO ARUN WAT fromtheticketstart pavilion at 9.30am. onThursday; allWednesday andGerman on WednesdayandThursday, Japanese on mended free tours inEnglish andFrench recom- runshighly members. Themuseum inthefuneralparadesofused royalfamily miss theincredible ornate goldenchariots Thai antiquitiesandceremonial objects.Don’t in SoutheastAsia andhasavastcollectionof 50B; www.thailandmuseum.com; ThNaPhraThat;admission The rbrbT#yIRl$kocsj'(k^b NATIONAL MUSEUM Phraya Express pieris Tha Tien. more information, see p87 . Thenearest Chao Thai medicine,particularlymassage. For of traditional for theteaching andpreservation European dress torepresent said Marco Polo. within thecompound,includingfigures in guardthedoorways mythicalheroes Chinese of of theEmeraldBuddha. Toweringstatues Uposatha stupa). Theinterior of themainchapel, and dozens of colourfulmosaic of temples withhuge goldenBuddhaimages ing fantastic mother-of-pearl inlays. goldenfigurehigh feet bear- includes3m-high Thailand’s largest, this46m-longand15m- atWatPhomous sight isthe enjoyable thanWatPhra Kaew. Themostfa- and isquieter, lesstouristyandthusmore h 84 Wat Pho is alsothenationalheadquarters The surroundingcompoundhasanumber sure pointyourfeet awayfromsacred Buddhaimages. permitted. Alsoremember yourshoesoffwhenever totake youenter atemple buildingandbe areas youare supposedtowearshoeswithclosedheelsandtoes. Sandalsandflip-flopsare not dressing inthecourtyard roomandissuedwithasarongbefore beingallowedin.For walking This tobeshownintoa expect appliestomenandwomen.Ifyou’re flashingtoomuchskin basically anythingthatreveals more thanyourarms(notshoulders)andhead–are notallowed. to enter unlessyou’re wellcovered. orspaghettistraptops,capripants– sleeveless shirts Shorts, gusto. andtheGrandPalace EspeciallyatWatPhra Kaew andinDusitPark, youwon’tbeallowed Temples inBangkokhave dress codesandthosewithroyalcredentials enforcethemwithsome TEMPLE DRESSRULES 8am-6pm) 8am-5pm) h National Museum National Museum AGO • Sgt BANGKOK ••Sights 9am-4pm Wed-Sun) , isjustasimpressive astheTemple consists of fourstupas around an was foundedinthe16thcentury wát (Temple of Dawn; Map ofDawn;Map (Temple pp72-3 ; Mp pp74-5; (Map isoneof thelargest Reclining Buddha Reclining % chedi 0 22241402; (brick (brick % Phra 0 . Suphannahong, ceremonies of state. Theornately decorated bytheroyalfamilyforimportant still used the drydockforThairoyalbarges, which are sion 30B,still/videocamerafee 100/200B; pp72-3; (Map Chao Phraya River, thisinteresting inThonburi,onthewestsideofOver the ginvritmÅoÉ' ROYAL BARGESNATIONAL MUSEUM Tha Thai Wang. (3.50B perperson) fromThaTien (N8)to ries runover few toWatArunevery minutes ternoon toavoid thecrowds.Cross-river fer- Visit earlyinthemorningorlate intheaf- with broken ceramicsandseashells. Chinese elongated Khmer 5.30pm) admission tosummit10B; 4561; offTh Boriphat; The man-made ;yflitgdL attractions. Victorian-era is thecurrent royaldistrictandhasseveral is theplaceforyou.Furthernorth, Dusit thenthis about partyingthansightseeing, and bars. IfyourtriptoThailand ismore San area of hotels, restaurants guesthouses, atmospheremopolitan aroundtheThKhao in someparts,andanalmostunfeasibly cos- districthasamore localfeel Ko Ratanakosin thatsitsjustnorthofBanglamphu theroyal The oldresidential neighbourhood of Banglamphu &Dusit which stops atthepierfor the museum. N13), from ThaPhra Athit(Banglamphu, in theworld.Toget here, take thetourist boat single pieceof timber,itisthelargest dugout personal barge. At45mlongandmadefroma WAT &GOLDEN MOUNT SAKET and adjoining % 0 2424 0004; Khlong BangkokNoi;admis- 0 24240004;Khlong or ‘Golden Swan’, is the king’s or‘GoldenSwan’,istheking’s Golden Mount Ъ rahng Wat Saket (tower),allcovered (Map pp74-5; (Map lonelyplanet.com

offer fineviews h 9am-5pm) h museum museum % 7.30am- 0 2223 is is Bamrung Meuang; admission20B; Bamrung Meuang; klong Klang. Fromeastern partsof thecity,take the alongThRatchadamnoen from Banglamphu in love WatSaket withBangkok. iswalkable up here before willmake itcloses youfall over awalk theoldcity.Ifyou’re buff, asunset lonelyplanet.com Tha SaphanPhan Fah andwalk from there. ortake the from Banglamphu, religious ritual.WatSuthatisaneasywalk death-defying (orsometimesnot)Brahmin redSwing, atall, ina swingformerlyused the northentranceis bronze. Opposite Sukhothai-period surviving Phrahigh SiSakayamuni,Thailand’slargest wí·h wàt. ThemainattractionisThailand’slargest ably themostattractive of Buddhist Bangkok’s lity make floor-to-ceiling muralsandrelative tranquil- The trulyremarkable Buddhaimage, colourful ;yfl=myLoN WAT SUTHAT Mahathat. Wat paraphernalia thantheamuletmarket at amulet market withmore Hindureligious Wat Saket andworthadetourforitsquiet have tolookfromoutside. Thistemple isnear you’ll birthdaycake; though, eval atnight, (MetalPrasat Palace) are lituplike amedi- whenthe37spiresnight of Loha theallmetal admission free; Ratchanatda A mixof imaginabletemple every style, ;yfik(oyffk WAT RATCHANATDA western terminus atTha Saphan Phan Fah. missing from thisdish. whoaddtheThai spice long foryoungBangkokians, district has becomeamajor entertainment stretchleave ofroad,butit’snot really Bangkokhavingseen justthisshort fair. Today,Banglamphu Think cabaret ofitasabackpacker inwhichyouare andaparticipant. bothaspectator woodenfrogs,amongotherthings.brand-name clothes,Thai fastfood,coldbeersandcroaking stallholders offering hair-braiding, body-piercing,pirated CDs,hippy jewellery, handicrafts,fake transvestitesglobe, minglingwithbeggars,hawkers, andsurroundedby andstreet performers, At Sanismobbedbytravellers anytimeofdayornight,Th Khao from acrosstheelse onearth. (‘stingy foreigners’) –Banglamphuhasevolved intoaclearing houseoftravellers anywhere unlike inThai asfaràng – knownjokingly homes intoguesthousesforsmellybackpackers their converting Almost 30yearsafter SanRd, asit’sknown,firststarted localsontheKhao THAN ă Critics claim Th Khao Sancocoons travellersCritics claimTh Khao fromthereal Thailand. It’struethatmanypeople (often speltas hn, Ŏ or mainchapel, housingthe8m- Wat Suthat N KHAO SAN Mp pp74-5; (Map h 8am-5pm) BANGKOK••Sights

Mp pp74-5; (Map khlong % Sao Ching-Cha is moststunningat 0 2224 8807; 2 Th Mahachai; 0 22248807;2ThMahachai; h ; canal)boattoits 8.30am-9pm) % klong 0 22249845;Th , theGiant boatto argu- Wat courtyard behind the intimate of someof olderwát.The Bangkok’s admission 20B; Temple; Map pp72-3 V; Ayuthaya&Th PhraRam ; cnrThSri in Carrara thisrenowned Italy, Built of shimmeringwhite marblefrom ;yfg[P&}[rb^i WAT BENCHAMABOPHIT from Th Klang. Ratchadamnoen To get here take bus70 fromBanglamphu, theboxedappropriately; see text, opposite . threethat oncehoused white elephants. twolargeThong Naigate, showcases stables and the other buildingshave royaltreasures ondisplay regionalhind itcontains handicrafts.Several be- The façadeisamazing,andthemuseum structure withastrongMoorish influence. Nang AphisekDusit) of themansionat10am and 2pm. sical dancesare staged inapavilion ontheside about anhour. Free performancesof Thaiclas- 9.30amand3pmlast between half-hour Compulsory tours (inEnglish)leave every gle nail,heldtogether bytinywoodenpegs. treasures. Itwasreportedly builtwithoutasin- largest goldenteak buildingandisfullof royal Palace ticket; admission100Borfree withGrand 6300-9; ThRatchawithi; Museum Mansion of Europe. Onthegrounds, tour inspiration fromhisturn-of-the-century estate of King Chulalongkorn, whotookgreat Dusit Park (Map pp72–3 ) isaformerpalace l;of=lb^ DUSIT PARK Nearby isthe This isroyalpropertysoyoumustdress Royal ElephantMuseum h h 9.30am-4pm) , a smaller but even more, asmallerbuteven ornate 8.30am-5pm) (Phra ThiiNangWimanmek; Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall Abhisek DusitThrone is said tobetheworld’s issaid bòht isgrandifnotas has53Buddha , neartheThU Vimanmek TeakVimanmek kêe ngók wát % (Phra Thii (Marble (Marble 0 2628

85 BANGKOK BANGKOK BANGKOK US$190 million’s worthat early 2008prices). from 5.5tonnesof solidgold(that’sahefty anincrediblehouses Buddha image made ThTraimit);admission 20B; (aka Mitthaphap of theGoldenBuddha; Map pp76-7 ; Traimit andThYaowarat, intheheartof Th Right Chinatown,between ;yfw^i}b^i TRAIMIT WAT backstreets. the distinctively in style,dotted around Chinese there are dozensof littlewát,someof them walking tour( p88 ) fordirections. Elsewhere are theTrok Itsaranuphap like amoshpit.See interesting andcongested of all–morningsin Chakwarat) and andTh ThRatchawong (Soi Wanit;between the city.Theoldmarkets along andsomeofhouses thebeststreet foodin markets, charismatic oldsoilinedwithshop- great crowded foraimlesswanderingthrough characters.in Chinese Thewholedistrictis quet restaurants, allwithloudneonsigns lined withgoldshops, herbalistsandban- centred onbustlingThYaowarat, which is Bangkok’s Chinatown (Map pp76–7 ) is for a wander. The surroundinggroundsare place apleasant ideal placetocompare Buddhisticonography. and stylefromThaihistory,makingthisthe images representing mudra(gesture) every 86 Chinatown organ. Womenprayhere whentheyhopetobecomepregnant (holdontoyourdaughters). and a3m-highphallusstatueare hundreds ofwoodenandstonerepresentations ofthemale % a metalpendantcaseforabout30B. fragments andotherpotent objects. Ifyoufancybuyinganamulet,several stallscanfititinto Buddhistmonasteries, butthereby important are alsotinyBuddhaimages,phallicsymbols,bone antiquities. Theanimistic andpart mostcommonamuletsare smallceramicplaques,produced San). Th Khao the ordinarystrangeness,here isalistofitsmore unusualsights(see p85 fortheweirdnessof placewithouteven trying.Bangkok canbeaweirdandwonderful Butifyouneedtogobeyond FREAKY BANGKOK (N9) orTha Phra ChantoTha WangLang (Siriraj, N10). andcannibalSiOuey.Togethere, thecross-river take serial child-killer ferry fromTha Chang evidence frommanyofBangkok’smostheinousmurdercases,includingthepreserved bodyof Soi Somkhit, ThWithayu) Soi Somkhit, AGO • Sgt BANGKOK ••Sights For a creepy exploration of human mortality, the For acreepy explorationofhumanmortality, Perhaps Bangkok’s strangestreligious site isthe The 0 2419 7000; 2nd fl, Forensic Medicine Bldg, Siriraj Hospital;admission40B; Bldg,Siriraj 0 24197000;2ndfl,Forensic Medicine amulet market Trok Itsaranuphap hidden awaybehindtheNaiLert Park Hotel. Scattered aroundaspirithouse

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91 BANGKOK BANGKOK BANGKOK of arowof godowns,theattrac- oldChinese resort.com; 256 Soi Wat Rakhang, Th Arun Amarin, Thonburi; Thonburi; ThArunAmarin, 256SoiWatRakhang, resort.com; odr Delightful. order. ion issuperromantic; mealsare cooked to den andpool.The riverside diningpavil- ages (somequite new)are arounda gar- set Fourvillasofdestination initself. varying convertedbeen intoa luxurious, personal Bhuvanath’s 19th-centurymansionhas las 10,000-25,000B; vil- KoRatanakosin; www.thaivillas.com; 396ThMaharat; not-wholly-uninterrupted river views. Aurum has12tastefully furnishedroomswith tive andvery faux-Parisian–style comfortable tw/d withbreakfast 3600/4100B; KoRatanakosin; 396ThMaharat; www.aurum-bangkok.com; roomhas Moonlight no view. exactly luxurious,butit’svery private. The rooms withsilksandfour-poster beds.It’snot Thonburi side,Ibrikhasjustthree romantic that’sliterallyontheriver right house onthe d withbreakfast 3200-3500B; is the pick. (with wi-fi andcablebroadband).Thesuite appealingly decorated butratherdarkrooms rant, thebarandviewsof WatArunasthe retreat appeals asmuch fortheDeckrestau- 92 Aurum: The River Place River The Aurum: Chakrabongse Villas Chakrabongse Villas Resort Ibrik 6000B to9000B,before heftyonlinediscounting. and boutiquehotels, andthevastmajorityofinternational atabout brands,you’re looking higher. atmore than10,000B,butinmostoftheluxuriousdesign Inthetoptierroomsstart budget, somevery niceroomscanbehadforbetweenabout1500Band2500B. are often quite cheap,whiletrendier newplacesmore pricey.Ifyou’re onalowermidrange more modestrates –modestyseeminglydefinedbythestyleofdécor. Thus theolderplaces at upto4500Bwilloften goforbetweenabout2500Band4000B. have More modestproperties onlineorinadvancebyphone;see discounts canbefoundbybooking p382 fordetails. These are thewalk-in rates wewere notingthatbig,sometimeshuge, quoted, butit’swellworth with pricesrisingsize andlocation. with ashared andstylishroomsare bathroom.More availableforupwardsof800B, comfortable are over butthoseonwafer-thin budgetscanstillgetadormbedforbetween150Band400B elsewhere inThailand. Wehave dividedroomsintothefollowingthree categories: Bangkok suffers fromcapital-citysyndromeandroom rates canbeconsiderablyhigherthan BANGKOK ROOMS:WHAT YOURMONEYWILLBUY AGO • Sepn BANGKOK ••Sleeping Bangkok’s growingarrayof The So whatdoyougetforyourmoney?At the Top-end Midrange Budget midrange : under1000B : over 4500B Mp pp72-3; (Map : 1000B-4500B as is where Roomslisted you’llfindthebiggestdiscountsforadvancebookings. (Map pp72-3 ; pp72-3; (Map a ) Mp pp72-3; (Map Prince Chakrabongse % a )

In awhite wooden 0 28489220;www.ibrik ) At theriver-end top-end % % 0 26223356; 0 26222248; hotels start atabout4500Bperroomandclimbmuchhotels start budget movie so thetiny,boxlike fanroomsfeatured inthe pies have replaced been byflashpackingcouples supercheap are flophouses almostover. As hip- The daysof San( ThKhao p85 ) beingallabout Banglamphu most of thebest(and cheapest) placesare not yourown discretion. and use Rememberthat meanit’snogood–look around that doesn’t Ifoneis notlistedhotels here, inBanglamphu. There and are to100guesthouses nowclose BUDGET Express bus from Suvarnabhumi. N13)or AirportAthit (ThaBanglamphu, the ChaoPhraya River express toThaPhra tems atraveller here Get bypublicbus, needs. unless youpay in advance. aroom usuallywon’treserve by 10am.Staff andmanyplacesarefor roomsisintense full From DecembertoFebruary, competition more experienced travellers prefer tostay. are San,andthese wheredius fromThKhao of midrange placeshave spread ina1kmra- food andscreening movies.nightly faràng-oriented tached restaurants serving atabout 500B.starting Mostplaceshave at- air-conditioned roomswithprivate bathrooms Calmer guesthouses andagrowing number guesthouses Calmer Th Khao Sanhasall thelife-supportTh Khao sys- end,thedaysof50BbedsinBanglamphu The Beach Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels have replaced been bylarger, rooftop pool,smallbutmainlystylish rooms Soi 1,ThSamsen;s300B,d400-600B) [email protected]; SoiPhrasuli;s220-380B, d [email protected]; Th Khao San and Th Ratchadamnoen Klang Klang SanandThRatchadamnoen Th Khao supercheap thealleyrunningparallelbetween andifyou’re of Banglamphu; going Khlong north San;inthesoioff ThSamsen Th Khao westof bends aroundWatChanaSongkhram which pretty noisy.LookalongSoiRambutri, San,andthestreet actually onThKhao canget Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Prasuri Guest House Prasuri ahead. Book clean showers and toilets.Great atmosphere. home hasninetinyroomsthatshare two San, thiscentury-oldwooden ThKhao off San;r700-950B; 138ThKhao bangkok.com; Rikka is great value. Sanlocation,thenewand acentralKhao San;r600-950B; .com; 259ThKhao attractive. most café-lobby andthegardenrooftop thatare the familialatmosphere centred aroundthe Boworn hasblandbutcleanroomsit’s ornbb.com; 335ThPhraSumen;r600-700B; rooms are also available. Cheaper roomswithfansandshared bath- location andclean,smartlydecorated rooms. mellow moodwithitshidden,relatively quiet d from590B; ThChakraphong; .lamphuhouse.com; 75-77SoiRambutri, San.Guestscanuse to ThKhao the kitchen. make theRoof Viewworththe10-minute walk sparsely stylish roomsandafriendlyyoungcrew 6, ThSamsen;s450B,d550-800B; recommended. strongly with fanandshared bathroom;reservations has10rooms century nobleman’steak house amid thevillage life of Soi1,thishistoric19th- homely caféis a highlight. arein anoldwoodenhouse best,whilethe San.Thesimplerooms onThKhao houses 160/250B) San;s/dwithshared bathroom 0 26290714;52ThKhao vate bathroom(400B to 600B). bathroom (200Bto400B)orwithfanandpri- offeringguesthouses roomswithfanandshared where you’ll findahandfulof old-stylewooden Shambara Inn Rikka Lamphu House Place Roof View Prakorp’s House Others include: Boworn BB GuestHouse Villa Oneof few remaining old-styleguest- ai Mp pp74-5; (Map (Map pp74-5; (Map Mp pp74-5 ; (Map Mp pp74-5; (Map ) Mp pp74-5; (Map Mp pp74-5; (Map

Lamphu House creates House Lamphu a Mp pp74-5; (Map Mp pp74-5; (Map % % % 0 22827511;www.rikkainn 0 22827968;www.shambara ai 0 26291073;www.bow % Inagardenoasis ais % % BANGKOK••Sleeping % % 0 26295861;www 081-805 8846; Soi 081-805 8846;Soi ) 0 22811345;fax 0 22817009;230 These white, white, These 0 22801428; ai ) ai With a ) Just ) (get inbefore sometanning thebeach) and 104-room hotel ontheriverfront hasapool ber of empire, theNewSiamguesthouse this of veteran theErawanhascom- guesthouses, 2629 3535;www.newsiam.net;21ThPhraAthit;dwith backpacker atmosphere; bathrooms backpacker are shared. but variable rooms;be sure tosee but variable a few. 280-420B; guesthouse ina quiet soi. 200-room, reliable butfairlysoulless midrange place. ais s/tw2000/2200B; www.viengtai.co.th; 42ThRambutri; s 280B,d380-650B; ThPhraAthit; www.newsiam.net; 21SoiChanaSongkhram, Royal Hotel Royal Hotel Hotel Viengtai ina service historic setting. tique hotel offers bothcharisma andwarm this10-room bou- furnished oldshophouses, 3190-3990B, f6590B; 609ThPhraSumen;dwithbreakfast .oldbangkokinn.com; tion…and...emm aMaccas in the lobby. loca- rooftop pool,amiddle-of-the-action has 76airy,tropical-manorstylerooms,a leader of San’sgentrification, ThKhao Buddy San;r2400-2900B; lodge.com; 265ThKhao value. pool and40colourfulnewroomsit’sgood isnotreehouse butwithathe Lamphu path afew minutes northeastof San, Khao ais ThPrachatipatai;s/d1250/1450B;155 WanchatBridge, 0991-92; www.lamphutreehotel.com; SoiBaanPan Thom, popular. also 1590B) are best.TheNewSiamsIIandIIIare withviews(from vaguely stylish rooms;those breakfast 1190-2190B; price. excellent roomswithmodestfittingsforan fortable 1000B; ThPhraAthit;r .erawanhouse.net; 17SoiChanaSongkhram, Ngan full-moon party. lamphu faster thanmushroomsataKoPha- Midrange placesare poppingupinBang- MIDRANGE New SiamGuestHouse & ThAtsadang;d1200-1700B; Klang 9111-26; fax022242083; cnrThRatchadamnoen Buddy Lodge o o Erawan House Also try: Old BangkokInn ai ai ) A Banglamphu fixture since1953;nowa ) ABanglamphufixture Lamphu Treehouse Lamphu Treehouse ) New Siam Riverside New SiamRiverside (Hotel Ratanakosin; Map Map (Hotel Ratanakosin; pp74-5 ; Accessed viaa Accessed ) A dashof ‘boutique’inthissoi (Map (Map pp74-5 ; (Map (Map pp74-5 ; ) Simple,family-run–ifalittletired – a Mp pp74-5; (Map ai ais Mp pp74-5; (Map ) The original New Siam. Relaxed, NewSiam.Relaxed, ) Theoriginal Mp pp74-5; (Map ) In several evocatively evocatively In several as % % (Map pp74-5 ; pp74-5; (Map ) % The fourthmem- 0 26294477;www.buddy 0 22805434-45; % klong Mp pp74-5; (Map ) Old, comfortable ) Old,comfortable 0 26292121;www 0 26291787;www % ai -side foot- 0 22824554; % % 0 2222 The ) % 0 2282 93

0 BANGKOK BANGKOK BANGKOK tion are quite appealing. budget placesaround Hualamphongtrainsta- changeHowever, iscomingandsomeof the risma bypassfamiliar inhotels in,ahm,China. from thesortof suffering cha-affairs total full of energy. Mosthotels are institutional Bangkok’s Chinatown isnoisy,hectic and Chinatown &Hualamphong restaurants and markets. Recommended. encourage youtospendyourmoney atlocal willalso butthehelpfulstaff fasts are served, is atoptheagenda. Deliciousorganic break- responsibilitying. Socialandenvironmental inagardenandconvertedset woodenbuild- this arty,rusticallycharming boutiquehotel s/d1800/2200B; Krung Kasem; 8188-90; www.phranakorn-nornlen.com;46SoiThewet1,Th attractive and fair value. Sanjoints.Roomsaresuperior tomanyKhao social astheneighbouring Shanti, butstill 5942; ThSiAyuthaya;s350B,d600-850B) value. excellent buttheair-conditionedfantastic roomsare ented atmosphere. Thefanroomsaren’t place downalanehasaneasy,family-ori- Ayuthaya;s/d250/430B; Th Sri chilled. Very strumming guitars andnotdoingtoomuch. ispopularwithpeoplehangingout, taurant bathrooms. Thedownstairs caféandres- concrete wingwithartfulwallmuralsand of tothenewer roomsfromsimpleaffairs Shanti Lodge hasavariety and self-assured, Ayuthaya;dm200,s/d400/750-850B; Th Sri along Th Samsen. 3,30and53 Thewet, N15)orpublicbuses a ChaoPhraya express boat(get atTha off convenient tootherareas. Toget here, take andDusit,butnotthat San, KoRatanakosin Nornlen, are a(longish)walktoThKhao plus theecofriendly midrange Phranakorn who are ‘over’ places, San.These ThKhao appeals particularly torepeat travellers ing fromthenearbywetmarket. Thewet andtheonlyfastfoodcom- no nightclubs aged agenuinely tomaintain localfeel, with actually pre-dates Sanbuthasman- ThKhao Library, astripof family-runbudget places North of neartheNational Banglamphu Thewet 94 o o Ayuttaya Sri Taewez AGO • Sepn BANGKOK ••Sleeping Mp pp72-3; (Map Phranakorn Nornlen Phranakorn Shanti Lodge

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) .com; 3/15 Soi 31, Th Sukhumvit; r3100-6000B; .com; 3/15Soi 31,ThSukhumvit; for oneawayfrom the cacophonous street. bed). Superiorrooms are thebestvalue;ask soyoucansurffrom the bigflatscreen TVs internet andwireless keyboards plugged into concrete modewithhi-tech gadgetry (free placecombinesaminimalist,polished- rise rfromwithbreakfast 2900B; Sukhumvit; Th 2850; www.bangkokboutiquehotel.com;241Soi Asoke, value. Superb breakfasts. broadbandisalsofree. Cable andfree buffet munal space,solidsecurity huge rooms(36to67sqm),plentyof com- phere ithas andappealstofamiliesbecause the 12-roomNapahasahomelyB&Batmos- minutes walkfromThongLoSkytrain, seven d 2750-4800B; 5525; www.napaplace.com;11/3Yaek 2,Soi36,ThSukhumvit; wi-fi and cable internet. byafewor separated inches. Roomshave both pushedtogethersingle mattresses ononebase, mind thatthesmallroomsallcomewithtwo ists. Itisreasonable bearin value,though 11 andisaimedatyoung,party-oriented tour- market has147roomsattheendof busySoi Accor’s forayintothehip-design-boutique r2590B; 33Soi11,ThSukhumvit; -sukhumvit.com; and smiling service. design,broadbandinternetenough included a little,butitisvery goodvalue,with‘chic’- bestretchingclassification might credulity new midranger. ‘boutique’ Theself-applied gym andtherooftop poolissmallinthis Everything fromthefoyer,torooms, rfrom2300B; .com; 34Soi13,ThSukhumvit; Citichic MIDRANGE Soi 42 and left. Kanong on SkytraindownSoi71,turnright popular. Take fromthePhra ormototaxi ataxi and-unpretentious vibehasmadeithugely pricey forshared bathrooms,butthehip- available. It’sinconveniently located and double-bunk; women-onlydormsare also have pullscreens each flirtatious between spotless white private roomsanddormsthat anddeliversises low-cost’,with ‘high-style dm 560B,s/d1085/1470B; .co.th; BanhomYong42,Soi71,ThSukhumvit; 191SoiPridi Bangkok Boutique Hotel Bangkok BoutiqueHotel Le Fenix Now! Refill Seven Seven Napa PlaceBed&Breakfast Mp p82; (Map Mp p82 ; (Map ai Mp p82; (Map (Map pp70-1; (Map % % ) Tucked awayinaquietsoi 0 23423888;www.citichichotel 081-616 2636; www.sleepatseven % ais % 0 23054000;www.lefenix 0 27132044;www.refillnow Mp pp70-1; (Map Mp p82; (Map ai ) Refill prom- ais ai This low- % ) % ai 0 2261 0 2661 Six ) 97

) ) BANGKOK BANGKOK BANGKOK and, intheuber-chic Flava lounge bar-cum- cream leather,mirrors, silver andbluemotifs worldoftwo adjacentbuildingsisarock-star it‘boutique’or‘design’,butthishotel in Call rfromUS$200; .com; 10Soi15,ThSukhumvit; vintage-car airport transfers. the ambienceyou’re here for. Ask about the aren’t huge (theSiamsuites are tiny),butit’s animals.Rooms copper bathtubsandstuffed full of art,books,antiquefurniture, beaten Hemingway, androomspacked IndianRaj and theSubcontinent.ThinkLivingston, modelled onthecolonialmansionsof Africa This unique12-roomboutiqueplaceis r5800-7200B; .com; 267Soi31,ThSukhumvit; Eugenia TOP END couples. and Goodforhipyoungsingles during thestay. wi-fi andmobilephonesiPodstouse are quite smallbutwellappointed withfree hence theyellowshirts onMondays).Rooms is yellow;theKingwasbornonaMonday, that each dayhasitsowncolour(egMonday applies toitssixroomsandlobby theThaiidea London’s Ministryof Sound,thisdesignhotel colours. Fromthedesignersrooms, seven of 98 Dream Dream US$85. as We-Train International House Rama Gardens Hotel HotelAmari Airport Refill Now! Novotel Hotel SuvarnabhumiAirport Grand InnComeHotel Suvarnabhumi International Airport islands andbeachesofthesouth. manyofwhichflytothe stillhostssomedomesticservices, flights, butoldDonMuangairport allinternational whichtakes Most peoplewillusethenewSuvarnabhumiInternational Airport, AIRPORT ACCOMMODATION Don Muang Airport r from4700B; bar. ‘lively’ karaoke Bangplee; s/twfrom1800/2000B; buses toairport. 600-plus luxurious roomsintheairport. 600-plus luxurious run bytheAssociation forthePromotion oftheStatusWomen. Take Hotel. ataxi(about80B) fromoutsideAmari dm200B,r800-1100B; DonMuang; Sikan, tungkha, AGO • Etn BANGKOK ••Eating Mp p82; (Map ) Opposite Don Muang, it’s the most popular airport hotel and has well-equipped day-useroomsfrom hotelandhaswell-equipped it’sthemostpopular airport ) OppositeDonMuang, Mp p82; (Map (see p97 ) Nearest goodbudgetoption. as % % 0 22599017-19;www.theeugenia ) Tranquil garden setting and very comfortable deluxe wingswithdeep-soaktubs. Shuttle ) Tranquilgardensettingandverycomfortable 0 22548500;www.dreambkk (Map (Map pp70-1 ; (Map (Map pp70-1 ;

( % 0 2738 8189-99; www.grandinncome-hotel.com; 99 Moo 6, Th Kingkaew, 99Moo6,ThKingkaew, 0 27388189-99;www.grandinncome-hotel.com; ai (Map (Map pp70-1 ; % % ) Solid midranger a few minutes by shuttle bus east of the airport, with ) Solidmidrangerafew minutesbyshuttlebuseastoftheairport, ais ais 0 2566 1020; www.amari.com; 333 Th Choet Wutthakat; rfrom US$90; 333ThChoetWutthakat; 0 25661020;www.amari.com; 0 2561 0022; www.ramagardenshotel.com; 9/9 Th Vibhavadi Rangsit; 0 25610022;www.ramagardenshotel.com;9/9 ThVibhavadiRangsit; ( % % as 0 21311111;www.novotel.com;rfrom5000B; 0 2967 8550-54; www.we-train.co.th; 501/1 Muu 3,ThDe 501/1Muu 0 29678550-54;www.we-train.co.th; cha- ) ) ) Quiet place with good-value rooms 3km from airport, ) Quietplacewithgood-value rooms3kmfromairport, more evident than in Bangkok. Thecity’smore thaninBangkok. evident Nowhere istheThaireverenceelse forfood Bangkok’s more interesting new buildings. spaciousandtastefullyfurnishedroomsinoneof Bright, rfrom7500B,ste13,500B; Sukhumvit; Th 4111; www.grandmillenniumskv.com; 30SoiAsoke, Sukhumvit Grand Millennium S15 no walk in. only, isalsoexcellent.Reservations taurant wi-fithrough totheminibar. TheFrench res- fromairportpickup they includeeverything, and, infairness,sotooare theprices.But notch works.Roomsare –everything huge are alltop but very stylish décorandservice masterpiece of design.Thefittings,restrained 33,000B; Soi16;r15,000B- &Sukhumvit .com; cnrThRatchadapisek Znsye rooms. Zen-styled ai cnrSoi15;d4500-6000B,ste7700B; 217 ThSukhumvit, EATING oepie, though. overpriced, apparently). sleep, (for deeper Suites are way Blue isthetheme,and195roomsare blue-lit restaurant, awhite tiger (withbluestripes). Also worthconsidering: Ma DuZi Ma Mp p82; (Map ) Newboutiqueplacewithreasonably sized, ai Mp p82; (Map % )

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103 BANGKOK BANGKOK BANGKOK around town, gocheck out begin fillingup until midnight. and usuallyinclude adrink.Mostplacesdon’t grey hairs. Cover charges as600B runashigh you’re legal(20years the old);they’llcardeven 2am closingtime. an IDtoprove You’llneed city’s ‘entertainment zones’thatqualify forthe andRCA (RoyalCityAve),Ratchadapisek the Silom, onthesoisoff Sukhumvit, standards castofa rotating hotspotshasslowedtoafew tobe only vaguememoriestoday.Whatused justlastyearare anight ing inthousands often clubscene,andvenuesBangkok thatwere pull- Fickleness isthereigning characteristic of the Discos &Nightclubs ings rag Nation listingsinthedaily tainment idea of what’sgoingon,check outtheenter- tures clubbers. and cosmopolitan Toget an entertainment optionsforbothculture vul- isamatureBangkok metropoliswithlotsof 104 ENTERTAINMENT To get anidea of current happenings on the quiet end of RCA is packed tothegillswithyoung ispacked on thequietendofRCA Women only. the sameladieswhorunZeta, Sheladrawsaslightlymore mature crowdwithlivemusic,apooltableandfood. G.O.D. DJ Station Dinners, cruises,clubbingandcontests are theorderofweek. mid-November, whenthecity’ssmallbutfun can befoundatwww.fridae.com. Bothgaysandlesbiansare welladvisedtovisitBangkokin covering More gay-friendlybusinessesin18Thai cities,includingBangkok. listingsandevents or assegregated. spelt nightlife isoutandopenwithbars,discos for manygays,Bangkok’smale-gay Is there a gay-friendlier cityontheplanet?Whilestepping offtheWestern shelfis a gamble GAY &LESBIANBANGKOK Zeta Telephone Shela Kluen Saek which to watch the virtual gay pride paradethatisSoi4. gaypride which towatchthevirtual features eachother. telephonessothatpatronscan‘ring’ seatinginfrontisprobably thebestplacefrom Thecafélike ing gayerbytheday,KluenSaekisbarely abletocontainamixed crowdofraversinitscoolgrey grip. parties and parties among themostwellknowngaydestinationsintown,thisplacehaspoundingdancemusic,flamboyantcostume not averse to a bit of shirtless dancing. LocatedonthetinyalleybetweenSoi2andThaniya. not aversetoabitofshirtless destination.Open lateand,asthenamesuggests, former Freeman hasbeen reincarnated asthispopularafter-hours AGO • Etranet BANGKOK ••Entertainment Utopia, thewell-knowngayinformationprovider, publishesthe Some recommended bars: (Map (Map pp70-1 ; newspapers, list- theexcellentweekly kàthoey; (Map (Map pp72-3 ; BK (Guys On Display; Map (Guys OnDisplay;Map pp78-9 ; gà·teu·i andthemonthly (Map (Map pp78-9 ; (Map (Map pp78-9 ; (Map (Map pp72-3 ; ladyboys)cabarets, butnightspotsforThai lesbians cabaret at11pm. % % 0 22030994;29RoyalCityAve IX)Thisexceedinglypopularlesbianclub offPhraRam (RCA), 0 22546463;106/12-13SoiLangSuan(cnr&Sarasin)Ownedby % % % 0 2266 4029; 8/6-8 Soi 2, Th Silom) Massively popularwiththeyoungercrowd,and 0 22664029;8/6-8Soi2,ThSilom)Massively 0 22343279;114/11-13Soi4,ThSilom)Bangkok’soldestgaybar-restaurant still 0 2254 2962; 297 Th Sarasin) One of a strip ofbarsalongThSarasinthatisbecom- 0 22542962;297ThSarasin)Oneofastrip Bangkok Post Bangkok 101 Bangkok Spin % 0 26328032;Soi2/1,ThSilom;cover280B; and . Pride Festival

torm-dee tertainment press,tertainment inparticular (www.bangkokspin.com), aswelltheen- (Ekamai), ThSukhumvit) (Ekamai), andneon, table, whisky set neon, neon. meant live aroundthe stage shows,wiggling outinBangkok from thedayswhen anight the previous decade,DanceFever isahold over Ratchadaphisek) recent arrivalonBangkok’s club scene. RCA’s popularAstra, Culture isthebiggest folkswhoran building andrunbythesame Sat) Ayuthaya; Th Sri -culture-bkk.com; insanely crowded events. to followthetraditionof big-name DJsand space previously occupiedbyAstra andlooks the infamousbeatmachine, thisclubfillsthe Royal CityAve IX) offThPhraRam (RCA), .bangkokrecorder.com). the Bangkok Post’s Nang Len Dance Fever Club Culture 808 Club

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place has comfortable VIP seats and shows VIPseats place hascomfortable Thai version of hall manages beer aBavarian Phayathai) .egv.com; I&Th SiamDiscoveryCenter,cnrThPhraRam the Thai films with English subtitles. international blockbusters in Englishand I) .sfcinemacity.com; 7thfl, MBKCentre, ThPhraRam international andThaifilms in English. www.thaicinema.org. at some reviews of Thaimovies are available respectfully. screening andyouare expected tostand sure going tothemovies isa social event. expats, andvariousannualfilmfestivals en- centres also screen movies forthebenefitof Manythe usualstaples. of cultural Bangkok’s movies (sometimessubtitledinEnglish), are Hollywood blockbusters inEnglish, andThai IandThPloenchit. around ThPhra Ram mas are inthebigshopping centres housed Mostcine- service. massage) andseatside clude reclining (somewithelectric seats ringinatamereVIP seats 500Bandin- cinemas worthavisitintheirownright. loveBangkok’s of excessmakes theglitzy amoviewould wanttosee overseas, but thinkthatonlyfilmfanaticsYou might Cinemas is still entertaining. buttheshow operation thanattheCalypso, 800B; 600- btwnSoi22&24;tickets ington Sq,ThSukhumvit show. Broadway cabaret, thisplaceishalfMoulinRouge, half 8.15pm &9.45pm) 1000B; fl, AsiaHotel,296ThPhayathai;tickets performed byThailand’s third gender. that are basicallylip-syncingdanceroutines (ladyboys; see p127 formore cabarets details) isfamouswithtouristsforits Bangkok Cabaret music and fresh beer. withlive night to pack’eminjustaboutevery III) Th PhraRam % SF CinemaCity EGV Cinema For movie listingsandshow times,see The royalanthemisplayedbefore every Cabaret Mambo Tawan Brewhouse DaengGerman Calypso Cabaret Cabaret Calypso 0 2678 1114; 462/61 Th Narathiwat Ratchanakharin, cnr 0 26781114;462/61ThNarathiwatRatchanakharin, Bangkok Post h shows 8.30pm&10pm) Bangkok’s poshestcinemashowsBangkok’s

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BANGKOK BANGKOK avant-garde flicksare onthe menu here. lar stadium is close to isclose lar stadium Lumphini Park. .com; 3rd fl, UMB Cinema, RCA, Th Phra Ram IX) ThPhraRam .com; 3rdfl,UMBCinema,RCA, on Thursday nights. Wed &Thu) h Nok;admission1000-2000B; 2281 4205;1ThRatchadamnoen Tue 5-8pm&8.30-11.30pm Sat) &Fri, IV;admission1000-2000B; Th PhraRam from awindow ticket vendor. areseats soldoutunlessyouhear itdirectly that thecheap anyonewhosays Don’t believe tourist intobuyinganexpensive ringsideseat. programmes aticket every mafiatriestosteer cheer fromthebleachers in3rdclass.Atsome whiledie-hard seats sit, backpackers usuallyoptforthe2nd-class most expensive andwhere theVIPs usually are Ringsideseats the cording toseating. Admissionfees varyac- central Bangkok. thai No-holds-barred Moo·ay Tai which cater toan Asian clientele. complexes’tainment along ThRatchadaphisek, Plaza (Soi4),andthelongstripof vast‘enter- particularly SoiCowboy(Soi23)andNana mainly shifted tothestreets offThSukhumvit, circus-like shows. ‘sex’ market atoneof andsinkacoldbeer the than ittakes tobuzzaroundthepirated goods butfew herethe spectacle, stay foranylonger ThSilomandSurawong,for 2, between pearance atSoiPatpong 1andSoiPatpong pitiable. it’s forotherssome peoplethisisparadise, liberal attitudetowardslove forsale. For numbers totake advantage of Thailand’s lonely foreign menstillflockhere inhuge islegendaryBangkok foritsgo-go bars, and Go-Go Bars hotels. This isaconvenient cinemafortheSukhumvit ShoppingCentre, ThSukhumvit) cinemacity.com; Emporium filmsaswellUS art house blockbusters. 2) 106 This retro cinemashows someEuropeanand Most visitors to Bangkok putinanap- Most visitors toBangkok SFX Cinema Lido Multiplex Sanam Muay Ratchadamnoen Sanam Muay Lumpinee Sanam Muay business has sex daystheserious These House bouts 5-8pm&8.30pm-midnight Sun,6.30-11.30pmMon, ) can be seen attwoboxing in ) canbeseen stadiums AGO • Sopn BANGKOK ••Shopping The best-matched boutsare heldhere Mp pp70-1; (Map (Map pp80-1; (Map Mp p82; (Map moo·ay tai % moo·ay tai 0 26415177;www.houserama Mp pp72-3; (Map

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BANGKOK BANGKOK BANGKOK Ruam Rudi,ThPloenchit; mall is also, somewhat incongruously, one of mall isalso,somewhatincongruously,oneof out SiamDiscovery’s subduedcorridors. The quite aThSilomarea antique shop, Rasi 108 objets d’art ofSayam stocksaclassy selection handmade Sukhumvit) are also well stocked. andTh Silom San, Th Sukhumvit on ThKhao ( Bazaar Night right ), butthestreet markets Market ( right ), followedbythe Suan Lum isChatuchak WeekendThe bestplacetostart Handicrafts are excellentvalueinBangkok. Handicrafts make himapopularchoice among expats. including amoney-back guarantee, service, in thebusiness, Uthai’s fixed pricesandgood name inan unreliable business. isareliable expats,Johnny’s Gems Bangkok Fuang Nakhon; reputable shops are: at aprofit and backhome. Twolongstanding tomers tobuylarge quantitiesof gems tosell scam, where shopkeepers trytopersuade cus- p390 ). Above allbeware of theinfamousgem entice customers (formore informationsee ers thestreet off oroffer to phoney‘sales’ drivers andothertoutswhobringinforeign- many stores offer bigcommissions totúk-túk glass gems are astopquality,and off passed techniques.derhanded sales Flawedoreven many gem dealers are notoriousfortheirun- but amateurs shouldtread very carefully as isamajorBangkok centre forthegem trade, Gems &Jewellery Face. North Shop, RockcampClimbingShop andthe on the3rdfloorare Equinox ProCam-Fis, Within tent-pitching of distance each other the bestplacesintowntostockupoutdoorgear. I) Th PhraRam wools and cottons. of hasawideselection banker-sensibilitytailor andreliablein men’ssuits,thislongstanding Soi 7,SiamSq; the city’sbestfoodcourts (see p101 ). available here, andthe6thfloorholdsoneof Siam Discovery Center Center Siam Discovery TailorsMarco Rasi Sayam Rasi Some reliable handicrafts: shopsselling Gems Uthai’s Johnny’s Gems AGO • Sopn BANGKOK ••Shopping

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the area. Theworkshop inthebackproduces largest andmostimpressive religious shop in & ThRatchaprarop) kets andshops thatextends northfromTh 4563; www.larrysdive.com;8/3Soi22,Th Sukhumvit) master.net; 16 Asoke Court, Soi23,Th master.net; Court, 16Asoke Sukhumvit) www.planetscuba.net; 666Th Sukhumvit) market. Thai Phetchaburi, Pratunamistheparagonof the lonelyplanet.com serves some,butnot all, serves domestic routes. tre andafter beingtemporarily retired itnow www2.airportthai.co.th) departures. and tion andreal-time of details airportarrivals .com site hasgood,more up-to-date informa- www.bangkokairportonline The unofficial sù·wan·ná·poom) worksfairlyefficiently. at mosttimesSuvarnabhumi(pronounced theboxedteething problems (see text, p32 ), international airport.After ratheralotof of thatacts asthemain centralBangkok glass andconcrete construction 30kmeast ( late 2006, hastwomainairports.Opened in Bangkok Air GETTING THERE&AWAY Planet Scuba Bar&Grill Center, Larry’s Dive supply.com; 457/4ThSri Ayuthaya) Supply Dive Master Dive Indeed Dive around Th Sukhumvit. Most of dive Bangkok’s shopsare located Scuba DivingSupplies Thailand. over gigantic bronzeBuddhaimages forwátall 4800; 87SoiNava,BamrungMuang) (p85). or tryatWatMahathat andWatRatchanatda theboxedthe amuletmarkets, see text, p86 , in Buddhist rituals. andothervotive Buddha statues objectsused with dozensof massive emporiaselling bronze Muang,nearWatSuthat,islined Th Bamrung Religious Paraphernalia indeed.com; 14/2Soi21,Th Sukhumvit) % Pratunam Market Pratunam Market Don Muang Airport Airport Don Muang Charoen Chaikarnchang To buytraditionalBuddhistamulets,visit 0 21321888;www2.airportthai.co.th) Mp pp72-3; (Map Mp p82; (Map Mp p82; (Map Suvarnabhumi International Airport Airport Suvarnabhumi International Mp pp70-1; (Map BANGKOK •• Getting There &Away BANGKOK••Getting Avirtualjungleof mar- is 25kmnorthof thecitycen- (Map (Map pp80-1 ; cnrThPhetchaburi % % Mp pp70-1 ; (Map % 0 26657471;www.dive 0 22593191;www.dive % Mp pp74-5; (Map 0 23544815;www.dive 0 22614412/3; Thisiseasilythe (Map (Map p82 ; % isthevast 0 25351111; % % 0 2663 0 2222 organised station is the departure pointforbusesto all organised station isthedeparture in thefarwesternsuburbs, thisnewandrefreshingly well Phuttamonthon 1,Chim Phli)AcrossSaphanPhraPinklao % by Skytrainstationisright Trat. TheEkamai the terminal. and eastern gulfcoastsuchasPattaya, Chanthaburi Rayong, Busestocitiesonornear the 6846; Soi40,ThSukhumvit) Southern BusTerminal BusTerminal &Northeastern Northern BusTerminalEastern in Bangkok: There are three main publicbusterminals PUBLIC BUS information about bustravel in Thailand. Incidents of theftare also quite common. orsafe aspromised. prompt, fast,comfortable aren’t alwaysas services San.These Th Khao or fromatouristcentre, particularlyalong you booktickets forpick-upatyourhotel atravelthrough agent. Itisnotrecommended be booked attheterminals themselves, not (see ment busstations below ); tickets should The bestprivate leave buses fromthegovern- PRIVATE BUS of bus scams. person orwithinreach; see p412 fordetails islands inthesouth,keep valuablesonyour ing totouristsandrunningthebeaches and always completely up to date. .co.th/Eng/HomeEnglish.htm, it’snot though departure timesandfares atwww.transport Youcancheckterminals aroundBangkok. buscompany,whichthe state-run hasthree are Saw, tioned publicbuses Khaw runbyBaw p411 Ordinaryandair-condi- fordetails). varieties(see comeinseveral kingdom. Buses allover fanoutfromBangkok the services A vastnetworkof publicandprivate bus Bus various maps. Bangkok see p110 . Many airlineoffices appearonthe totheairports, Fortransportdetails details. bus 3fromThPhraAthit in Banglamphu. anordinarybus3;alternativelyyoucancatch you cantake leavefromhere. FromMoChitSkytrainstation, northeast and andallbusestothenorth Market), (and theWeekend ofChatuchakPark honyothin) Thisterminalisjustnorth 611/448;ThPha- office029362852 ext northeastern pp70-1; Map See See p411 andtheregional chapters formore cater- andespeciallyonbuses On allbuses, For hotels neartheairports,see p98 for 0 24351200;cnrThBoromaratchachonanee &Th % northern office 0 2936 2852 ext 311/442, office029362852 ext northern (Ekamai; Map Map (Ekamai; p82 ; (Sai Tai Map Mai; pp70-1 ; % (Mo Chit; 0 2391

109 BANGKOK BANGKOK BANGKOK travel agents (frequently using thename who trytosteeryou towards at thestation Hat Yai andthenontoMalaysia. Ignore touts SiThammarat, Surat Thani,Trang, Nakhon midnight rapid andexpress trainsdepart forHuaHin, whenheadingsouth. Ordinary,you’ll use Thailand’s –mainrailhubandthe station hourly 10pm 5am- IV) .co.th; ThPhraRam 1690;www.railway 2220 4334,information&advancebooking 5hr hourly historic located justsoutheastofCentrally Chinatown, 250B hourly 5am- 3½hr Train 152B 2hr hourly 4.30am- hourly 117B Trat 5am-8pm Rayong 3½hr 4hr Pattaya 152B 194B Chanthaburi Ban Phe Destination Price Duration Frequency Trat for Ko Chang. nections toKoSametandChanthaburi, Phe andBan are forcon- 7daily used nal. Rayong bustermi- fromtheEastern long-haul buses by Places ontheeastern gulfcoastare served 11hr 295-590B Trang 377-750B Surat Thani 437-870B 14hr Songkhla 4 6 15hr Satun 433-800B 357-665B Ranong daily 14hr 596-900B Phuket 10hr 6 4 daily 7daily 13-14hr every 6-8daily half-hourly 2½hr 12-13hr 10 80-120B Phetchaburi daily 20 10daily daily half-hourly Pattaya 125B 353-705B 2hr 15hr 3½hr Thammarat daily 337-660B Si Nakhon 14hr 99-171B Krabi 357-710B 640-950B Ko Samui Hua Hin 12hr Hat Yai5 5 Duration Frequency Chumphon 211-500B 7hr daily Destination Price daily onmostof expensive services routes: these air-con. Private companiesalsooffer more ices fromtheSouthernbusterminal thathave Fares listed here are forgovernment-run serv- You canreach thestationonbus503fromTh Phra Athit. andwesternThailand. – aswellbusestoKanchanaburi SuratThani,Krabi,HatYaipoints south–helloPhuket, 110 midnight minutes 9.20am-6pm AGO • GtigAon Around BANGKOK ••Getting Hualamphong trainstation is Bangkok’s – and indeed –andindeed isBangkok’s (Map pp76-7; (Map

% 0 finishing atSala Daeng Skytrain. Park, ThSaladaeng,Patpong, PlazaHotelandothers, Skytrain,Lumphini World shoppingcentre, Ratchadamri Th PhraSumen, San. Khao Soi 30,DemocracyMonument,RoyalHotel,Th Phra Athit, are fewer services to are fewer services Don Muang. There SuvarnabhumiandBangkok. between You cantravel busandsoonSkytrain bytaxi, To/From theAirport fully slowlyinabusas a taxi. road alternative, aswellmove youmight pain- ferry are all better options. times theSkytrain,Metro, about4.30pmand9.30pm.Atthese between isanimmovablein Bangkok forceof nature traffic and 5pmto7.30pm.OnFridaynights rush hours are fromabout 7.30amto10am hours theycanbeexcruciatinglyslow.The Taxis are cheap butduringthemanyrush rely primarily onSkytrainandmeter taxis. what timeitis.Inthenewpartof town,you’ll on where youare, where you’re goingand around Getting easilyalldepends Bangkok GETTING AROUND Banglamphu. from train station cluding Kanchanaburi) leave from travel inThailand, see p417 . a reputable agent. Formore ontrain details rectly ticket atthe station desksorthrough ‘TAT’); it’sbetter tobookalltraintickets di- AE-4 24, 20,18,10,6,Central Chidlom,CentralWorld, Soi Nana. AE-3 AE-2 AE-1 landmarks. other majorstop atSkytrainstations, hotels and counter 1.Routes is nearentrance8onlevel TheAirportExpress going toBanglamphu. butmorecentral Bangkok, expensive ifyou’re parable fortwoormore peopleheadingto fare, meaning thepriceof willbecom- ataxi foraflat150B operate from5amtomidnight city.They Suvarnabhumi andBangkok tween routesAirport Express be- runsfouruseful Bus&MinivansAirport SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT korn University. Monument, PhayathaiSkytrain,Siam Sq,MBK,Chulalong- If the traffic isbadandthereIf thetraffic isn’tanon- Infrequent trainstowestern Thailand(in-

to Hualamphongtrain station to Sukhumvit to Banglamphu to Silom

Mp p7- Thonburi) pp72-3; (Map By expressway viaPratunam,Central Soi 52,EasternBusTerminal, Soi 34, By expressway via Th Phetchaburi Byexpressway viaThPhetchaburi klong , acrosstheriver lonelyplanet.com Via Victory ViaVictory boatorriver Bangkok Noi (you’re better offusingtheAEbus). the frontdoorandcostabout 180Bperperson pickupfrom conditioned minivans.These canbookyouonair-hotels andguesthouses If headingtotheairportfromBanglamphu, lonelyplanet.com to/from Don Muang. There are nolonger any express airport buses DON MUANG AIRPORT 250B/300-350B/350-425B per vehicle. Asoke/Silom/Banglamphu shouldcost200- to ataxi the tollway.Dependingontraffic, drivers willusuallyaskyourpermission touse driversburse foranytollcharges (upto60B); airportsurchargepay a50Bofficial and reim- Youmust also ‘meter, please’. insist bysaying their meter, buttheyoften trytheirluckso booked thisdeskshould alwaysuse through the fast-moving Cabs queueforapublictaxi. andjoinwalk outsideonthearrivalslevel ing youto‘limousines’(which cost800Bflat), Ignore thetoutsandallyellowsignspoint- Taxi (thered line)taking local service 27 minutes. (the pinkline)thatwilltake 15minutes, and a Phetchaburi. There willbeanexpress service nearSoiAsokein centralBangkok, andTh a huge newCityAirTerminal (Map pp72–3 ) line willrunfromdownstairs attheairportto From early2009(insha’Allah) anewSkytrain Skytrain shuttle from the airport. reached Centre, Transportation viaafree andTratstopatthePublicRayong toplacesincludingPattaya,Intercity buses Bus 556SouthernTerminal Airport Buses 554&555DonMuang Skytrain. Bus 552KlongToei Bus 551SiamParagon are: useful Suvarnabhumi fora 35Bflatfare. Most serve window) to the airport. 552Suvarnabhumifor theyellowBTS onthe minivan(25B,about40minutes;the BTS look near themarket entranceopposite Tesco take take theSkytraintoOnNut(40B),thenfrom With more timeandlessmoney,youcould Local Transport Monument (for Th Khao San)andThammasat Monument (forThKhao University. Several otherair-conditionedSeveral localbuses BANGKOK •• Getting Around BANGKOK••Getting Via Sukhumvit 101andOnNut Via Sukhumvit Via Victory Monument. Via Victory ViaDemocracy transport alongandacrossChaoPhraya pavedbeen over, there isstillplentyof Taxi Taxi Sq andHualamphongtrain station. to keep aneyeon flags. those wanted triphalfway to Nonthaburibe sure of theflagson their roofs. Toavoid anun- differentiated bythecolour ferent services, range from10Bto 34B. There are fourdif- piers andtheirnumbers. Fares are cheap and themapsinthisbook show theBangkok; and fromNonthaburi(N30)in northern runningtomore are useful theservices touristsrarely Much these. (S4), though use consecutively from Sathorn. Riverside.station, pierisnumbered Each and connectstotheSkytrain’sSaphanTaksin pier isknownasSathornorSaphanTaksin, alongtheChaoPhraya. The central service www.chaophrayaboat.co.th) The RIVER FERRIES River andup adjoining canals. manyof Although Bangkok’s Boat hour). one 9.30pm (3rd-classordinary/express 5/10B, hourfrom2pmto every and thenroughly one to1½hours from4amto11.30am every trains toHualamphongtrainstation whichcess has toDonMuangtrainstation, to theAmariAirportHotel alsoprovides ac- fromTerminalThe walkwaythatcrosses 1 Train to Sukhumvit and Silom. are butabout thesame lowertoBanglamphu airport charge addedtothemeter fare. Fares outside thearrivalshallandthere isa50B As leave atSuvarnabhumipublictaxis from Bus 29 Bus 513 Bus 510 routes: air-conditioned Useful actuallygetand youmight aseat. withair-connot allowed.Buses are faster, and theDemocracyMonument;luggage is San passingThKhao on toBanglamphu, infrontofhighway theairportandcarries Slow, crowdedpublicbus59stopsonthe Bus Ferries runfourstopssouthtoRatburana Chao Phraya Express BoatCo Express Chao Phraya Northern BusTerminal, Northern Monument, Siam Victory Th Sukhumvit, EasternBusTerminal. ThSukhumvit, Monument,SouthernBusTerminal. Victory operates the mainferry ( % klong 0 26236001; have

111 BANGKOK BANGKOK BANGKOK 7.30am and evening at5.35pm 7.30am andevening and 6.05pm. inthemorning7amto N30 only.Justacoupleofservices on thetime of day. fiveto20minutesdepending every N24, N30.Departing depending onthetime of day. fiveto20minutes every departing common service, N10, N12,N13,N15,N18,N21,N22,N24,N30.Themost 15to20minutesmorningsand every evenings. 5am and 10pmor11pm,except forthe‘all- or 8B. Most of thebuslinesrunbetween at7B start for ordinary(fan-con) buses and increase depending ondistance. Fares ditioned fares at 10Bor12B typicallystart are buses routes. cheap: Bangkok air-con- incredibly informationonallbus useful ( are runbythe which byusingthepublicbuses, Bangkok You cansave alotof moneytravelling in Bus be leftbehind.Fares range from7B to 20B. onoryou’ll just afew –jumpstraight seconds by dailycommuters andpullintothepiers for boatsare at ThaPratunam.These mostlyused –after amandatory changeSukhumvit of boat both), andotherpointsfurthereastalongTh ping centres (get atThaHuaChangfor off theSiamSquareThompson’s House, shop- an easywaytoget toJim fromBanglamphu andare toRamkhamhaeng) (Banglamphu SaenSaep andthenKhlong Banglamphu boatsrunalongKhlong taxi Canal KLONG BOATS until late at night. which charge few 3.50Bandrunevery minutes – askforoneoronboardsat the piers. and are sometimesavailable attheferry piers routes, pricesandtimes ing mapsthatdetail 50B. for hourfrom10amto3.35pm Thonburi every Phra AthitwiththeRoyalBarges in Museum 120B. There isalsoaboatthatconnectsTha 3pm. Aone-daypassforunlimited travel costs 30minutes9.30amand Pier) every between andSathorn(Central Athit inBanglamphu PhraA specialtouristboatrunsbetween Blue Express Yellow Express Orange Express Local Line(noflag) 112 % All thisisbestillustrated inthesmall,fold- There are alsodozens of cross-river ferries, 0 22464262;www.bmta.co.th) AGO • GtigAon Around BANGKOK ••Getting Nonthaburi express, stoppingN10and Nonthaburi Stops atN3,N5,N10,N12,N15,N22, Stops atN1,N3,N4,N5,N6,N8,N9, Bangkok Mass Transit Authority TransitAuthority Bangkok Mass The all-stops service, operating Theall-stopsservice, ; thewebsite has Th Phetburi Th Phetburi Tat Mai) www.budget.co.th; 19/23BldgA,RoyalCityAve, Thai Tower, All Seasons Pl,87Th Thai Tower,AllSeasons Withayu). Mp pp80–1). (Map .com; 2/12ThWithayu)AlsoatGrandHyattErawanHotel Avis Rent-A-Car ing in Thailand. car. See p412 formore information ondriv- ataround1500Bperdayforasmallstart deal withoverzealous police. Car-hire rates means youdon’thave tonavigate, parkor 6pm), which gives localdrivers a job and (600B aday,8amto vide chauffeur service Suvarnabhumi airport. Mostcanalsopro- companies have andat inBangkok offices still wanttogive itago,allthebigcar-hire hiring acarwhenyouget there. Butifyou better offgoingsouthbyplaneortrainand be car tovisitsouthernThailand,youmight ubiquitous. Ifyouare thinkingof hiringa mysterious andthealternative –are –taxis isfrustrating,roadrulescanbe sible, traffic is notareal goodidea. Parking isimpos- Renting acarjusttodrive aroundBangkok Car around Hualamphong train station. are particularly commononordinarybuses, andpickpockets Bag-slashers buses. Bangkok careful withyourbelongingswhenridingon route mapavailable. Have smallchange andbe at Asia Books( p67 ), isthemostup-to-date midmorning. to which runfrom3amor4am buses, night’ that link up with the Skytrain. Altogether there are withfour 18stations andterminatesstation) at Hualamphong. Silom (withaccess toSalaDaengSkytrain Convention LumphiniPark Centre, and to Asoke Sirikit Queen Skytrainstation), (withaccess Sukhumvit Cultural Centre, Thailand to theMoChitSkytrainstation), Sue) itconnectswithChatuchak (withaccess đ www.mrta.co.th) the railway openedin2004andisoperated by The first lineof underground Bangkok’s (SUBWAY)METRO Metro (Subway)&Skytrain(BTS) Hertz Rental Budget Car âi din Reliable car-rental companiesinclude: Bangkok BusMap, Metropolitan Rapid TransitAuthority Rapid Metropolitan Mp pp80-1; (Map or‘Metro’. Atthenorthend(Bang . Thaiscallthesubway ( % % Mp pp70-1; (Map 0 22555300;www.avisthailand 0 2654 1105; www.hertz.com; M 0 26541105;www.hertz.com; byRoadway,available % lonelyplanet.com 0 2203 9200; 0 22039200; rót fai

(MRTA; night, exceptduringpeakhoursnight, –6amto9am minutes from6amtomid- seven run every atticketcan bebought windows. Thetrains cost 15Bto39B;child andconcessionfares phong toChinatownandThonburi.Fares lonelyplanet.com Bangkok. Mostcommonly andpopularlyBangkok. in twopurposes serve Motorcycle taxis Motorcycle Taxi flexible. more with 100Btravel and30B carddeposit)are available, buttherechargeable cards(130B, are kiosks.One-day(120B)passes the staffed accept coinsandnotes; pickupchange at Ticketrun from6amtomidnight. machines built attheeastern endof the line. Weekend Market. Five more are stations tobe turns northuptoMoChit,nearChatuchak theSilomline. Fromhereit meets theline the maininterchange atSiam,where station the shoppingandcommercialdistrict ing over theMetro atAsoke. Itcontinuesinto cross- alongThSukhumvit runs westright Soi81of thislinedistant ThSukhumvit, 2009. in sion acrosstheriver isduetocomeonline river ferries ( p111 ). Along-awaited exten- The finalstopconnectstotheChaoPhraya of KrungandThSathon. section ThCharoen Saphan Taksin, ontheriver nearattheinter- ern endof ThSathontofinish (fornow)at ofvia theeastern section ThSilomandwest- Siam interchange andbendsaround station the I,nearSiamSq,itpasses Th Phra Ram scheduled for early 2009. with anotherroute toSuvarnabhumi airport ing rush hours. There are twoSkytrainlines, indur- tosqueeze cheap, you’llneed although are andrelatively fast,efficient fort. Services jamsinair-conditionedlegendary traffic com- .bts.co.th) The (BTS)SKYTRAIN bus terminal attheBang Sue end. Chatuchak weekend market andthenorthern andChinatownatoneend, train station is noweasilyconnected toHualamphong hotelfor visitors area isthattheSukhumvit less thanfive minutes. Themainadvantage and 4.30pmto7.30pm–whenfrequency is Future extensions will connectHualam- Fares range from15Bto40Band trains Line Sukhumvit Silom Line BTS Skytrain BTS allowsyoutosoarabove Bangkok’s Starting at National Stadium on atNationalStadium Starting BANGKOK •• Getting Around BANGKOK••Getting

RunningfromOnNut,at (rót faifáh; % 0 26176000;www for 20Babove the metered fare. .taxiradio.co.th foranidea of fares. Phetchaburi www (1700B),amongothers; see to Pattaya (1500B),HuaHin (2300B) and involved. Taxis can alsobehired fortrips 2000B, depending onhowmuch drivingis find another cab. flat fee; ifthis happens justwalkawayand themeterrefuse andtrytocharge touse a and othertouristareas, somecabbiesmight just tryanothercab. San AroundThKhao ofifthis happens, tinations because thetraffic; refuse des- hours, might togocertain taxis 24 ofis talk raising rates. taxi passenger. of fuelprices,there high Because ing onwhere –mustbepaidbythe youstart Freeway tolls–25Bto70Bdepend- traffic. charge20km, plusasmallstanding inslow greater20km and5.50Bforanydistance than then 4.50Bforthenext10km,5B13kmto The meter charge is35Bforthefirst 2km, flag themdownanywhere inthecitycentre. butlessoftenfront seat intheback.Youcan conditioned andhave inthe workingseatbelts best valuecabsonearth.Mostare new,air- of are thousands taxis Bangkok’s someof the Taxi nearby. hospitals yourself intheknowledge thatthere are good riders. Comfort is allinaday’sworkforthese you’d paygoodmoneyforatDisneyland,but periences. It’sthesortof white-knuckle ride side of near-death theroadand several ex- age tripinvolves sometimeonthewrong from responsible tokamikaze,buttheaver- whichever godyou’re into. Drivers range on thisforlonger aprayerto trips)andsay town), straponthehelmet(theywillinsist a short tripuptoabout 100Bgoingacross want togo,negotiate aprice(from20Bfor Youtell yourriderwhereing thetraffic. you ask). you unless ing about 10Bforthe trip(withoutahelmet gather ateitherendof theirsoi,usuallycharg- Riders wearcoloured, numbered vests and far endsof soithatrunoff thatthoroughfare. thoroughfare, tothe such asThSukhumvit, work, runningfromthecornerof amain they formpartof thepublic transportnet- - You canhire alldayfor1500B to ataxi During themorningandafternoon rush Taxi Radio Their other purpose isasameansofTheir otherpurpose beat- hour ‘phone-a-cab’ services are available hour ‘phone-a-cab’services ( % 1681; www.taxiradio.co.th) andother

113 BANGKOK BANGKOK BANGKOK © LonelyPlanetPublications ing too-good-to-be-true 10B trips. about túk-túkscams,andignore anyoneoffer- theboxedties. See text, p83 , formore details morewill steer youtoeven rip-off opportuni- ‘special’ temples, helpfullocalswho you’llmeet silk shops andmassage parlours. Enroute to little ‘detours’ tocommission-paying gem and inducing machines are notoriousfortaking For foreigners, emphysema- these however, for.or forshort hopsnotworthusingataxi shaws) are byThaisasatraffic-jumper used iconictúk-túk(like rick- Bangkok’s motorised Túk-Túk 114 the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake AGO • GtigAon Around BANGKOK ••Getting ad quieter. and areyou’ll findtaxis cheaper, cleaner,cooler as much. Onceyou’ve hadtheexperience, the pollutionwon’tsouryouralfresco trip for ashorttrip,preferably when atnight, so it’sworthbargaining downtoabout 40B it’s aniconicexperiencetotravel bytúk-túk if notmore, theshortest foreven trip.Still, tobequotedfair price).Expect a100Bfare, drivers figure touristsdon’tknowwhatisa few them,andthe(partly because expatsuse always askfortoomuch bahtfromforeigners The otherproblemisthattúk-túkdrivers lonelyplanet.com