SPRING 201T SPARE PARTS MANUAL
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Gear Brands List & Lexicon
Gear Brands List & Lexicon Mountain climbing is an equipment intensive activity. Having good equipment in the mountains increases safety and your comfort level and therefore your chance of having a successful climb. Alpine Ascents does not sell equipment nor do we receive any outside incentive to recommend a particular brand name over another. Our recommendations are based on quality, experience and performance with your best interest in mind. This lexicon represents years of in-field knowledge and experience by a multitude of guides, teachers and climbers. We have found that by being well-equipped on climbs and expeditions our climbers are able to succeed in conditions that force other teams back. No matter which trip you are considering you can trust the gear selection has been carefully thought out to every last detail. People new to the sport often find gear purchasing a daunting chore. We recommend you examine our suggested brands closely to assist in your purchasing decisions and consider renting gear whenever possible. Begin preparing for your trip as far in advance as possible so that you may find sale items. As always we highly recommend consulting our staff of experts prior to making major equipment purchases. A Word on Layering One of the most frequently asked questions regarding outdoor equipment relates to clothing, specifically (and most importantly for safety and comfort), proper layering. There are Four basic layers you will need on most of our trips, including our Mount Rainier programs. They are illustrated below: Underwear -
Ice Gear 2009 Gear Guide AUSTRIALPIN HU.GO
Ice Gear 2009 Gear Guide better swing control; the longer axes are good for glacier travel. Technical and mixed, curve- shafted tools fall in the 45-to-55cm range; size there to preference. Ice Gear Shaft. The classic mountain tool has a straight shaft, for anchor/boot-axe belays or WIth Ice clImbIng, as aid, upward progress allow you to switch out mono and dual front- walking-stick use. For steep ice, curved shafts relies almost directly on gear. Accordingly, ice points, too. offer better swing ‘n’ stick, knuckle protection, gear is highly specialized and typically falls bindings. The basic styles are strap-on, and clearance over bulges. into one of three categories: mountain use/ hybrid, and step-in. For mountain travel, strap- grip. A straight tool sans rubber grip is prefer- AUSTRIALPIN HU.GO glacier travel, waterfall- and pure-ice climbing, ons typically suffice and work with all boots; able for mountain use, where you’ll be posthol- With all the super-specialized ice or mixed climbing/dry tooling. hybrids require a sturdier boot with a heel ing through snow. For technical ice and mixed tools these days, it’s unusual to find welt; and step-ins fit stiffer boots with both use, a molded-rubber grip delivers purchase one so multipurpose — the Austri- Crampons heel and toe welts. and insulation against the shaft. Technical ice There are crampons for all types of climb- tools typically have pinky catches, for even Alpin (austrialpin.net) HU.go ing, from getting purchase on slick slopes to Ice Tools better grip. For hardcore ice and mixed, the Gear breaks the mold with a vari- inverted heel hooking. -
Stevie Haston Aleš Česen Malcolm Bass Tom Ballard Steve Skelton F.Lli Franchini Korra Pesce
# 33 Stile Alpino Luoghi & Montagne MONTE BIANCO BHAGIRATHI III CIVETTA KISHTWAR SHIVLING GASHERBRUM IV HIMALAYA MALTA TAULLIRAJU Protagonisti STEVIE HASTON ALEš ČESEN MALCOLM BASS TOM BALLARD STEVE SKELTON F.LLI FRANCHINI KORRA PESCE Speciale PILASTRO ROSSO DEL BROUILLARD In collaborazione con: ALPINE STUDIO EDITORE Trimestrale anno VIII n° 33 settembre 2016 (n. 3/2016) € 4,90 La giacca più leggera e impermeabile del momento LIGHTWEIGHT WITHOUT COMPROMISE MINIMUS 777 JACKET Con un peso di soli 139g, la Minimus 777 è una giacca per Alpinismo e da Trail di una leggerezza estrema, con 3 strati impermeabili, una traspirabilità elevata e una comprimibilità senza precedenti. Pertex® Shield + exclusive technology: 7 denier face, 7 micron membrane, 7 denier tricot backer montane.eu La giacca più leggera e EDITORIAL # 33 impermeabile del momento • Firstly I would like to openly admit that I do not really like to write about or com- ment on other peoples mountaineering endeavors, because it is impossible to comple- tely understand an experience in the mountains unless you have lived it yourself. Ten years after my predecessor I will have the difficult task to replace Fabio Palma in writing the editorials of Stile Alpino. Certainly he is better skilled than me in writing and has been one of the creators of this magazine founded by the Ragni di Lecco group. Nonetheless, I will try to be up to the job helping to select the last ascents around the world and to suggest new places but always taking care to include ascents in the Alps and close to home. The objective of Stile Alpino is to improve and steadily grow in order to publish ar- ticles, that might not have been published before, on ascents in unknown or known areas. -
Reviving We Can't Hear a Historical Race That Hasn't Been Run How to Take in Over 70 Years Great Action Shots Like the One on This Cover Tableofcontents
WWW.MOUNTAINEERS.ORG JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2014 • VOLUME 108 • NO. 1 MountaineerEXPLORE • LEARN • CONSERVE exciting and unpredictable mixed climbing mentoring women in the lead listening to animals reviving we can't hear a historical race that hasn't been run how to take in over 70 years great action shots like the one on this cover tableofcontents Jan/Feb 2014 » Volume 108 » Number 1 Enriching the community by helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. 14 Mountaineers to the Rescue The Pierce County Red Cross honors six Mountaineers 18 Beauty of Unpredictability An interview with mixed-climber Roger Strong 22 Women in the Lead 10 An all-female climbing mentor group led by Stef Schiller 23 Have Camera Will Capture Mike Warren discusses his outdoor photography tricks 6 DONOR HIGHLIGHT Bill Hecker with a vision of world-class climbing 7 Impact GIVING The plan to add friction slabs 8 OUTDOOR Education Sisters of Adventure by Carolyn and Isabelle Stratford 10 Conservation currents 18 The importance and conservation of bees 12 nature'S waY Experts on sound, from underwater to extinction 16 MEMBER HIGHLIGHT Nina Crampton and her 10 essential answers 28 RETRO rewinD The Patrol Race is back after over 70 years 23 DiscOVER THE MOuntaineers Mountaineer magazine would like to thank The Mountaineers If you are thinking of joining—or have joined and aren’t sure where to Foundation for its financial assistance. The Foundation operates start—why not set a date to Meet The Mountainers? Check the as a separate organization from The Mountaineers, which has received about one-third of the Foundation’s gifts to various Branching Out section of the magazine (page 32) for times and nonprofit organizations. -
Sometimes the Leader Does Fall... a Look Into the Experiences of Ice Climbers Who Have Fallen on Ice Screws
SOMETIMES THE LEADER DOES FALL... A LOOK INTO THE EXPERIENCES OF ICE CLIMBERS WHO HAVE FALLEN ON ICE SCREWS Kel Rossiter Ed.D., Educational Leadership & Policy Studies--M.S., Kinesiology/Outdoor Education AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide INTRODUCTION/BACKGROUND Last winter a climber with Adventure Spirit Rock+Ice+Alpine was asking me about the holding power of ice screws. We discussed the various lab studies that have been done (a list of links to some interesting ones can be found at the bottom of this paper) then he said, “That's great, but has anyone ever specifically done research into how they actually perform in the field?” He had a point. While the dictum in ice climbing is that “the leader never falls,” in the end, they sometimes do. So presumably there was an ample population from which to sample— but I was unaware of any actual field research done with this population. So, fueled by that question, I decided to explore the topic. The results of this inquiry appear below. Though I have a background in research, make no mistake: This presentation of findings should not be viewed through the same lens as academic research. Aside from running it by a few academic-climber friends there has been only an informal peer review, there are significant short-comings in the methodology (noted below), and ideas are put forth that don't necessarily build directly on prior research (largely because—as noted—there really hasn't been much research on the topic and much less field research). In addition, this write up is not done in the typical “5 Part” research format of Introduction, Methodology, Results, Analysis, and Conclusion. -
Fall Into Crevasse - Traveling Unroped on a Glacier Alaska, St
AAC Publications Fall Into Crevasse - Traveling Unroped on a Glacier Alaska, St. Elias Range, Middle Peak At the end of March, I (Colin Haley, 28) left for a climbing trip in Alaska’s St. Elias Range with Portlanders John Frieh and Daniel Harro. We were flown into the range by Paul Claus midday on April 1. We spent a few hours setting up our base camp and then went for a short ski up-glacier to scope our objective. About 20 minutes out of camp, I suddenly broke through a totally hidden crevasse and fell approximately 15 meters, ricocheting off the walls of the crevasse. We had left for our leisurely ski with essentially no equipment, so Daniel immediately skied back to camp to fetch a rope, crampons, ice tools, and harnesses. I was able to climb out of the crevasse with a top-rope (and even managed to rescue my skis and poles). Fortunately, I escaped any truly serious injuries. Unfortunately, however, I had a fractured cheekbone and my trip was over. We skied back to camp and the next morning I flew off the glacier, for a total of about 16 hours in the St. Elias Range. John and Daniel graciously offered to fly out and help get me home, but I was confident I’d be alright, so I told them to stay and go climbing. This accident has undoubtedly made me more wary of glacier travel, even though it’s something I’ve been doing very regularly for over 15 years. I’m sure I will continue to do some occasional solo travel on glaciers, but I absolutely view solo glacier travel much more seriously now. -
Winter Newsletter 2010
JMCS JMCS Winter Newsletter 2010 Next Page Click on the articles below to view or use the buttons on the navigation bar at the bottom of the page Secretary’s Introduction Climbing on Smith Rock, by Susan Jensen Ice Climbing in Norway, by Roy Harrison Spring in New Zealand, by Dave Coustick A Short Walk in the Khumbu, by Ruairidh Finlayson A visit to Verdon, by Bryan Rynne The Inaccessible Pinnacle of France, by Stuart Murdoch Mont Blanc, by Ruth Love Climbing on Mingulay, by Patrick Winter Designed by Sarah Wright 2010 Back Page Next Page Secretary’s Introduction In the past, written accounts by Edinburgh JMCS members of their own recent activities (as distinct from reports of formal Meets) have been printed off and sent round with the invitations to attend the AGM and dinner. This year I received too many articles to make printing an economic proposition, especially if the photos accompanying the articles were to appear in colour. So this year we have decided to ‘publish’ the articles on the Club website rather than in print. This will save money, preserve the rain forest and show off the photos to proper effect. When I invited contributions, I expected that much of what came back would relate to the Scottish mega-winter of 2009/10. But in fact, during the whole of that remarkable season, no-one in the Club seems to have done anything that they felt was worth writing about. It would also seem that it is leaving the UK, in particular, that unlocks the well-springs of literary inspiration for JMCS Members, for all but one of the contributions which I received proved to be about climbing or walking abroad. -
Ice Climbing Anchor Strength: an In-Depth Analysis
Ice Climbing Anchor Strength: An In-Depth Analysis J. Marc Beverly, BS-EMS, M-PAS, Certified Guide Stephen W. Attaway, PhD Abstract: Ice climbing anchors are seemingly simple, yet have a mystique that surrounds their use and overall strengths. Not all ice climbing anchors are used in a standard configuration. Placing an ice screw into an already existing ice screw hole is called re-boring. Re-boring of ice screws is a common practice among ice climbers. Re-boring is typically preferred when placing a screw to avoid creating adjacent holes that could serve as a potential fracture propagation point. We evaluated re-boring strengths for several ice screw designs to determine the strength as a function of length of screw. Slow pull tests were performed, and the results were compared with prior data from drop testing on ice screws. Static pull testing using lake ice was compared with drop testing on waterfall ice and found to be a good substitute test medium. In addition, we evaluated Abalakov anchors (a.k.a. V-thread anchors), with 7mm Perlon cord as well as 1” tubular webbing in different configurations. Their strengths were then compared with that of the single re- bored ice screws. The nature of ice is a continually changing medium and hard to predict in the field. However, the actual strengths shown from our testing methods in the real-world environment make a strong case for the strength of re-boring. Recently, re-bored holes in a freezing environment were found to be strong enough in most configurations. Abalakov ice anchors were also found to be strong, provided that enough ice area was enclosed by the anchor. -
Helmets Culture Shock Be Inspired
32418_Cover 12/4/02 10:58 am Page 1 ISSUE 26 - SUMMER 2002 £2.50 Helmets Off Centre Impacts Culture Shock Climbers in Wadi Rum Be Inspired Stanage and On Peak Rock ALPINE A – Z NEW INSURANCE PULLING POWER PHOTO COMP WINNERS • MOUNTAIN TRAVEL • YEARBOOK • EXHIBITION FOREWORD... SUMMER SUMMITS elcome to Summit 26 which this time focuses on mountain travel, summer rock and getting Wout in the great outdoors. For me, like many climbers and walkers, the day the clocks change is a notable date in the annual calendar. All of a sudden the winter blues start to fade away, the daffodils come into bloom, the evenings lengthen, optimism returns, plans start to become reality – it’s summertime and it's time to head for the hills! The spring and summer months are indeed a wonderful time in the climbing year-book. This year, the clocks went forward over the Easter weekend and for some of us, the sun even shone. Honeypot areas such as Snowdonia, the Lakes, the Yorkshire Dales and other National Parks were heaving with visitors: Portland, Pembroke and Gogarth bus- tled - people were out there doing it and the countryside was well and truly back in business. Personally, I had an unusually quiet Easter. Unlike many others who headed for Scotland, the Alps, Fontainebleau or Sardinia, I stayed at home, recharged my batteries, ate good food, drank Abso- lution and made plans for the year. A couple of long walks took me up and around the Kinder plateau, following in the footsteps of the Kinder trespassers on one occasion and scoping out some new lines on another. -
SA Winter Mountaineering Essentials List
Winter Mountaineering Essentials List Timothy Larsen 2021/06 Apparel: SHELL: ● A sturdy pair of gaiters -BLACK DIAMOND FRONTPOINT GAITER ● Breathable waterproof shell - STORMLINE STRETCH RAIN SHELL or HIGHLINE STRETCH SHELL ● Waterproof pants - STORMLINE STRETCH FULL ZIP RAIN PANTS ● Warm shell gloves GLISSADE GLOVES to Very warm mitts MERCURY MITTS depending on the expected environment MID-LAYERS: ● High quality down jacket - APPROACH DOWN HOODY ● Mid-layer Jacket - FACTOR HOODY ● Warm hiking pants - ALPINE PANTS BASE LAYER: ● 2x Base Layer shirts - LS RHYTHM TEE ● 2x Baselayer pants - SOLUTION 150 MERINO BASE BOTTOM ● Synthetic balaclava - DOME BALACLAVA ● Base layer gloves to be worn under your main gloves to allow you to do “fingery” tasks that require that you remove the main glove MIDWEIGHT SCREENTAP FLEECE GLOVES ● Synthetic beanie - BLACK DIAMOND BRAND BEANIE ● Wool and Synthetic Socks Footwear: B1: Boreal Zanskar, Zamberlan Vioz Plus and the Scarpa Marmaloda Pro. B2: Boreal Brenta and Scarpa Ribelle Winter camping: There are three essentials: FOUR SEASON TENT Vango Mirage Pro A PROPER SLEEPING BAG JR GEAR HELIUM DOWN - 550g to 1050g. AN INSULATED MAT E3 GEAR INSULATOR MAT -10MM. JR GEAR PRESIDON. JR GEAR DRY BAG PUMP. Other Equipment: ● Hiking Pack 75-100L Black Diamond Mission 75L ● Trekking Poles* Any of the Black Diamond Flick Lock poles will serve you well – but the Pro Series (with Stainless Steel flick lock) will be the most reliable Black Diamond Alpine Cork Poles ● Headlamp - Black Diamond Storm 400, REVOLT 350 or ICON -
Simulating and Testing Ice Screw Performance in the Laboratory Final
Simulating and Testing Ice Screw Performance in the Laboratory Final Report 16. 622 Spring 2003 Authors: Warren Bennett & Stefano Alziati Advisors: Dr. Kim Blair & David Custer 13th May 2002 i Abstract This project replicated natural ice formations in the laboratory by testing a set of methodologies of ice manufacture and analyzing the ice specimens obtained through a series of prescribed measurements. Once repeatable ice formation was achieved, the variables affecting ice screw safety were tested in the simulated ice. Ice screws are protection devices that allow climbers to anchor themselves to ice. This project was a response to the current lack of any controlled testing procedure for ice screws, and the perceived margin for improvement of ice screw design and usage in the field. This project is of value to the technical and the climbing community because it will create a methodology for making ‘climbing ice’ types in the lab and provide data on current safety standards of ice climbing equipment. This study will reduce the failure rate in ice climbing by being the first step towards the improvement of such protective equipment, and in educating climbers about the limits of their equipment and how to use that equipment most effectively. The conclusion drawn from the data obtained in Stage 1 was that more research should be done into how different ice types can be differentiated. The density test was the only statistically significant quantitative method for describing different ice types. The main conclusion from Stage 2 was that raising the loading rate lowers the failure loads. Climbers should therefore concentrate on employing methods for reducing the loading rate on ice screws in the event of a fall. -
SUMMER MOUNTAINEERING EQUIPMENT LIST for Overnight Trips
SUMMER MOUNTAINEERING EQUIPMENT LIST For overnight trips FOOTWEAR: Objective dependent - check with MAG on the exact requirements for your trip ● Lightweight Mountaineering Boots: depending on the objective, they may need to accommodate a semi-automatic crampon. Be sure to break them in with some long hikes prior to your trip. (Guide’s Pick: Scarpa Zodiac Tech GTX) ● Approach Shoes: Sticky rubber hiking shoe for non-technical climbing. ● Rock Shoes: For technical rock climbing routes. Sticky rubber approach shoes are fine for moderate routes (i.e. Granite Peak in MT). Not necessary for Gannett Peak. ● Socks: 2 to 4 pairs (synthetic or wool-mix), sized for your boots. At least one thin liner is recommended for blister management. ● River Crossing Shoes: lightweight Crocs or Keens that can also double as a camp shoe NOTE: On Gannett Peak, some participants choose to have a hiking approach shoe for the majority of the hiking and only use the climbing boot on the day of our climb. This can be a good combination but obviously adds weight to your load. TOP LAYERS ● T-shirt/Sport Shirt: synthetic ● Long Sleeve Base Layer: synthetic or wool ● Fleece: medium-weight polar fleece ● Puffy Jacket: down or synthetic fill, light to medium-weight ● Rain Jacket: lightweight BOTTOM LAYERS ● Bottom Base Layer (long johns): lightweight synthetic or wool ● Climbing Pant: synthetic/nylon ● Hiking Short: synthetic ● Rain Pant: lightweight OTHER ● Gaiters: through mid-July (Guide’s pick: Black Diamond Talus or Cirque Gaiters) ● Hat or Visor: for sun ● Warm Hat: lightweight that fits under a helmet ● Gloves: light to mid-weight, with Gore-Tex shell ● Backpack: 60L-75L (Guide’s Pick: Osprey: Ariel or Aether Series) ● Summit Pack: 15-25L super lightweight ● Sleeping Bag: 15 degree (Guide’s Pick: Mountain Hardwear Phantom 15) ● Sleeping Pad: Closed-cell foam or Thermarest (as lightweight as possible) ● Tent (optional): MAG can supply tents but they are 4-season and made to last.