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Home , Golmud, Langmusi, Namtso, Qinghai, Qinghai Lake, Tanggula Pass

Tibetan Highlands: /// (14 Days) We love road journeys. They are by far our favourite way of traveling. We think the world of western and the countries that border on this region – think Vietnam, Lao, Thailand, Myanmar, for example.

On the Road Experiences is all about sharing with like-minded travelers just how beautiful a road journey in these varied lands can be. Now turn the page to find out what we’ve come to love so much…

p2 p3 Itinerary Map …where you will travel… p. 006 Yes, it is possible… p. 008 Journey of Discovery… p. 010 Day-by-day… p. 056

In closing... Any car you like, so long as it is an SUV… p. 077 Adventures and discoveries in local cuisines p. 078 What’s included/Best Months to Go... p. 080

Photo credits p. 083 p5 Itinerary Map Day1 Day8 Arrival in – Dulan to – Apply for your temporary driving Across the to Golmud license and visit Chengdu’s beautiful Panda Reserve Day9 Golmud to Tuotuohe – Day2 Up, up, up - Onto the Plateau and Chengdu to Maerkang – into the highlands of Qinghai Through the valleys to the Gyarong Tibetan region Day10 Tuotuohe to Naqu – Day3 Cross the famous on Maerkang to Ruoergai – your way to Tibet itself Towards the very north of Sichuan on the way to Gansu Day11 Naqu to Damxung – Day4 Visit one of Tibet’s holiest , Ruoergai to Xiahe – Nam-tso Your first and only stop in Gansu province Day12 Damxung to – Day5 Complete your journey with Xiahe to Qinghai’s capital, – a beautiful drive to your final On your way to Qinghai destination

Day6 Day13 Xining – In and around Lhasa – Spend a day in and around Xining for Visit and explore the a bit of rest and visit the spectacular old city of Lhasa Ta’er Monastery Day14 Day7 Depart from Lhasa – Xining to Dulan – Lift must go on...Farewell Lhasa On the way to Golmud... p6 Yes, it is possible...

A driving holiday in this part of the world is indeed possible. We take care of everything. All you need to do is come, drive and enjoy a rare adventure!

Tibetan Highlands: Sichuan/Gansu/Qinghai/Tibet – Chengdu to Lhasa as your final destination is a 14-day discovery of one of the planet’s most extraordinary places, the . On this journey you will experience the many faces of the plateau: from deep, forested valleys in northern Sichuan, to the wide-open plateau of Qinghai and the stunning landscape of Tibet.

Start your journey in Chengdu, a buzzing Chinese city, before leaving the misty Sichuan lowlands behind. Drive northwest to explore the clear, blue skies and open spaces of Sichuan’s magnificent Aba and Ganzi regions. Cross remote swathes of the plateau, home to herds of and , and pass the headwaters of Asia’s mightiest rivers; the , Yellow and . Before you arrive in Lhasa visit stunning Lake Nam-tso. Ringed by snow-capped mountains, the turquoise waters of the ‘Sky Lake’ have been revered by Tibetans for centuries. End your journey in the cultural and religious heart of Tibet: the holy city of Lhasa.

On the Road in China has paved the way for you to cross borders in your own properly insured SUV, so that you can enjoy the romance of a classic overland journey without any of the logistical headaches that typically accompany such journeys...

p8 p9 p11 Pandas, the symbol for FRIENDSHIP AND PEACE...”

Welcome to Chengdu...who would want to give Sichuan’s panda’s a miss? p13 You have LEFT THE BIG CITY BEHIND...”

Welcome to Chengdu...here in Bamboo Park locals practicing an art p15 ...and are ON THE ROAD IN CHINA...”

Yaks own the local roads p17 A HOLY place outside of TIBET...”

Morning prayer at Ta’er Monastery near Xining p19 The LARGEST SALTWATER LAKE in CHINA...”

Visit on the way to Golmud p21 From the ROADSIDE, VIEWS like these...”

The landscape around Golmud is barren, but still beautiful in autumn p23 ARE you UP for a game of POOL?”

Experiences along the along Qinghai’s Tibetan plateau p25 Where the DRIVING is pure JOY...”

The road towards Tuotuohe p27 Where the YANGTZE originates...”

The beautiful Tanggula Mountain Range p29 PROSTRATING for SPIRITUAL reasons...”

Pilgrims on their way to Lhasa p31 It’s a 40hours TRAIN RIDE from to LHASA...”

With luck, an encounter with the Beijing-Lhasa train p33 KING of the road...”

On the way to Lake Nam-tso p35 With Luck, a VISIT to a HERDER’S TENT...”

On the way to Lake p37 The HIGHEST SALTWATER LAKE in the WORLD...”

First view of Nam-tso lake p39 MAGNIFICENT VIEWS of the nearby mountains...”

Landscape around lake Namtso p41 YAK’s do LOVE the LAKESIDE...”

Lake Namtso p43 HORSES along LAKE NAM-TSO...”

Lake Nam-tso p45 Enjoy your OPENAIR meal...”

Picnic along the way p47 The HOLIEST sanctuary...”

The , Lhasa p49 PILGRIMS PRAY in the shade...”

The Jokhang, Lhasa p51 GOSSIP and PRAYER go hand-in-hand...”

The Jokhang, Lhasa p53 RAINBOW not included...”

The Jokhang, Lhasa p55 p57 Day 1 In the evening, we will meet Day 2 well-preserved official manor for a safety briefing and enjoy hosted Mao Zedong and other Apply for your a group dinner together in Through the valleys to key communist leaders as they temporary driving a lovely restaurant nearby Elevation rested here from the rigours of Driving Distance & Duration the hotel. Dinner will be the Gyarong Tibetan Highest Daytime: 500m the Long March in 1935. Distance: 360 km license and visit an opportunity to begin to region... acquaint yourself with the Overnight: 500m Duration: 7 hours Chengdu’s beautiful many flavors of Sichuan’s Welcome on the Road in China! Even today, the manor makes a cuisine and to meet your fellow Today’s destination is Maerkang, relaxing place to stop, with views Panda Reserve Hotel Elevation travellers. located in the Aba Prefecture, of the beautiful village below and In the morning we will help Shangri-La, Chengdu (*****) 360km northwest of Chengdu. the lush valley beyond. From Highest Daytime: 3200m you complete your temporary Please note: After navigating out of busy Zhuokeji it is 8km to Ma’erkang, Overnight: 2600m Chinese driving license If you need to apply for your Chengdu, you will find yourself a modern town that runs the temporary Chinese driving license, application, if required. on the China National Highway length of a narrow valley. you must arrive one day earlier (at Hotel This involves a simple eye 317 (G317), which runs broadly test and some paperwork, any time convenient for you), we will Note: This is your first stop in higher west to east from Chengdu, altitude. Please be prepared to take Jingjinlong Grand Hotel, and you will have your new arrange the airport pick up for you! everything more slowly to help your license by lunchtime. Spend If you currently hold a full Chinese Sichuan to Naqu in Tibet. It is Maerkang (****) driving license, it is possible to 2,028 km in length. body adjust to the altitude – and ask the afternoon with Sichuan’s us for details of what else you can most famous residents, the arrive today, a day later than those After navigating out of Chengdu do to prevent altitude sickness from giant pandas at Chengdu’s who need to do the temporary impacting your holiday. Panda Breeding Centre, or license application. and our lunch en route, we will visiting one of the fascinating drive more and more into the archaeological sights around countryside. The drive winds the city. through a series of thickly forested valleys into the Gyarong Tibetan region around Maerkang. A white chörten overlooks our turning into the Fubian River valley, and marks our entry into a region that the Red Army passed through on their Long March of the 1930s. As we reach the northern end of this bucolic valley, we will come to the village of Zhuokeji. Zhuokeji’s Day 3 Tibetan, distinct from the local river valleys give way to the Amodo dialect. broad, open horizons of the Aba Towards the very Grasslands. north of Sichuan on Your drive today spans the transition from the deep valleys This high altitude marsh proved the way to Gansu and thick forests of Gyarong to a formidable barrier to the Red Ruoergai, also known as the the high plateau that surrounds Army when they passed this way Songpan Grasslands, is a Ruoergai. From Maerkang in later 1935. Fortunately for county of Ngawa Tibetan and you will retrace our steps to modern-day travellers, Qiang , Zhuokeji before turning off the conditions have improved bordering Gansu to the north. national highway and north markedly, and this remote It is the northernmost county onto a smaller provincial road, region is connected to the of Sichuan province and sits on which will take you all the way outside world by a series of Driving Distance & Duration the eastern part of the Tibetan to our destination. Slowly the surprisingly good roads. Distance: 323 km Plateau and on the northern Duration: 8 hours most edge of Aba grassland. It is part of , one of Tibet’s Elevation most traditional regions. The Highest Daytime: 3400m Aba grasslands range across Overnight: 3400m parts of three Chinese provinces with significant Tibetan Hotel influence: Sichuan, Gansu and Ruoergai Hotel, Ruoergai (**) Qinghai.

As nearly the entire county is covered in high altitude grasslands, it is perfect for herding yaks and sheep. During the summer, thousands of families live in traditional style yak wool tents on the grasslands. It is also the territory of the Goloks, nomads who speak their own dialect of Day 4 nestled amongst the hills. rare and expensive cordyceps Tashilhumpo Monastery in While Langmusi today has fungus. From Hezuo, a further Shigatse; and near Your first and only a slightly ramshackle feel, 70km brings us to Xiahe, Xining, Qinghai. stop in Gansu province it is home to two venerable home to . monasteries constructed in Before checking into the The monastery occupies the The slender province of Gansu the eighteenth-century – a hotel, a visit to this monastery western end of the town, flows east to west along the testament to this region’s is a must. It was founded in encircled by a long wall , the gap through early importance to Tibetan 1709 by Ngagong Tsunde and of prayer wheels. If time which all manner of goods Buddhists, something you which accommodates nearly permits, walk a kora around once streamed from China to will see more evidence of in 2000 monks. The monastery the monastery at dusk as . the coming days. In Gansu, is one of the six major monks ascend to the rooftops the first major settlement is Tibetan monasteries of the to pray beneath the evening Driving Distance & Duration Gansu offers an entrancingly the modern town of Hezuo, Gelugpa order. The others are skies before checking into Distance: 260 km rich cultural and geographic a major trading centre for Ganden, Sera and Drepung your hotel. Duration: 6-7 hours diversity. The ethnic diversity is herbal remedies including the monasteries near Lhasa; equally astonishing: in Linxia, Elevation the local Hui Muslims act as Highest Daytime: 3200m though the silk route lives Overnight: 2900m on; in Xiahe and Langmusi a pronounced Tibetan Hotel disposition holds sway, while Jiusheng Hotel, Xiahe (***) other minority groups such as the Bao’an and Dongxiang join in the colourful minority patchwork.

Between Ruoergai and Xiahe, we will skirt the eastern edge of the wild Aba Grasslands on a good road that runs north into Gansu and Xiahe. 90km from Ruoergai, just before the Sichuan-Gansu border the village of Langmusi sits p63 Day 5 cultural traditions. The Yangtze River, the will use a back road that For the next portion of your province received its name and the Lantsang River) and climbs out of Xiahe towards trip, monasteries give way to On your way to from the reason that there is the province is honored as the the Gansu-Qinghai border, as we leave China’s passing roadside chapels and Driving Distance & Duration Qinghai an inland salt water lake: The ‘water tower of China’. ethnic Tibetan region behind Distance: 270 km Qinghai Lake, which is the herders’ settlements as you and pass into the Muslim go. A short detour will bring Duration: 6-7 hours Today you will leave Gansu largest lake in China and sits Your drive from Xiahe to northwest. In Xining, the you to Wutun, a major centre Elevation province behind and enter at an altitude of 3,300m. The Xining takes you through a smell of grilled lamb and for Tibetan thangka painting. Highest Daytime: 3200m Qinghai province. Qinghai is capital city of Qinghai Province wide range of scenery, from cumin wafts through the Wutun’s two small monasteries Overnight: 2275m a large, sparsely populated is Xining, your destination high-altitude grasslands are decorated with a wealth nightmarkets, and thousands Chinese province spread for today. Despite appearing through dramatically sculpted of intricate paintings, some gather for Friday prayers at the Hotel across the high-altitude very arid Qinghai Province is desert-like landscapes to of which have survived for city’s spectacular mosques. Yinlong Hotel, Xining (***) Tibetan Plateau. It’s a place in fact the source of three of Xining, one of northwest centuries in the region’s dry of strong Tibetan and Mongol China’s greatest rivers (the China’s largest cities. You climate.

p64 Day 6 was a warlord in Day 7 the 1920s and his house has Spend a day in and been really nicely restored, On the way to Golmud around Xining for a with some buildings covered in Driving Distance & Duration Driving Distance & Duration big jade tiles. Distance: 0-50 km Today you will be driving up to serve the camel caravans Distance: 426 km bit of a rest and visit Duration: 0-2 hours along the Tibetan Plateau that transported goods through Duration: 8-9 hours the spectacular Ta’er Xining is also a wonderful (Depends on your chosen and Lake Qinghai to Dulan. this desolate landscape to place to explore the province’s activity) Both, the current Chinese Golmud and Lhasa until the Elevation monastery varied cultures – Muslim (Huí, name “Qinghai” and the older 1960s. Trucks having taken Highest Daytime: 3200m Salar and Uighur), Tibetan and Elevation Mongolian name Kokonor of over their role, the camels now Overnight: 3100m Today you will have the whole – especially the Highest Daytime: 2200m Lake Qinghai translate to “Blue run wild – keep your eye out culinary mix that these groups day to explore the area around Overnight: 2750m Lake”. The lake lies 3194m for hem wandering along the Hotel bring together. Xining, but perhaps most above sea level and is located roadside! 都蘭金世界大酒店, Dulan importantly, to get some rest Hotel (**) nd Our team will be happy to at the crossroads of several for the more strenuous 2 part Yinlong Hotel, Xining (***) of the journey. arrange any of these to fill your bird migration routes across day with wonderful memories. Asia. Many species use Qinghai What might you be in the as an intermediate stop during mood for? An early visit of migration. Ta’er Monastery, Qinghai’s most vibrant monastery? It Leaving the cold blue waters lies around 25km Southwest of Qinghai Lake behind, our of Xining and also belongs journey continues west to to the six great Gelukpa sect the eastern edge of the arid monasteries in Tibet. Here Qaidam Basin. En route you will witness the religious devotion of the Tibetan we will pass Chaka salt people – watch pilgrims as lake, a dazzling expanse of they prostrate themselves in shimmering white crystals, front of the monastery’s most and the largest of the Qaidam important shrines, and see the Basin’s salt lakes – the basin’s monks debating in Taer’s great name comes from the Tibetan courtyard. word for “salt marsh”. From Chaka the road passes through A visit to the Museum of China an increasingly arid landscape Tibetan Medicine Culture, or to Ma Bufang’s former residence? towards Dulan, passing a string of settlements that grew p67 Day 8 the Tibetan Plateau south of Day 9 extinction, and soak up the open spaces that define this corner of Across the Qaidam the Tarim Basin and the Gansu Up, Up, Up - Onto the Corridor and continues east Driving Distance & Asia. Driving Distance & Basin to Golmud south of the Wei River to end at Duration Plateau and into the Duration the North China Plain. Stop for the night in the tiny Distance: 346 km highlands of Qinghai Distance: 410 km Today’s road is spectacular as settlement of Tuotuohe, which After reaching the highland Duration: 7-8 hours is the first town on the Yangtze Duration: 6 hours it stretches across the edge Today you will ascend to the town of Golmud in the – the river runs nearby, already of the Qaidam Basin, with the Tibetan Plateau over the Kunlun afternoon, you are free to Elevation broad and swift-flowing even Elevation to the south Mountains on a wonderful road relax or explore the town – Highest Daytime: 3200m this close to its source. Gaze out Highest Daytime: 4500m separating it from the central (the G109 that stretches from perhaps shopping in the town’s Overnight: 2800m over the river and mountains, Overnight: 3600m Tibetan Plateau beyond. The Beijing all the way to Lhasa) that enormous market or visiting one and imagine the journey that Kunlun Mountains are one of arches and curves across the of Golmud’s mosques. In the the river will undergo before the longest mountain chains Hotel plains. Hotel evening we will head for dinner it reaches its mouth near in Asia, extending more than DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel, Changjiangyuan hotel, 3,000 km. In the broadest sense, in a colourful local restaurant – worlds away from Golmud (*****) See Tibetan Antelope from Tuotuohe (**) it forms the northern edge of serving Qinghai specialties. the road and learn about the the dusty streets of Tuotuohe… species’ return from the brink of

p69 Day 10 Day 11 Cross the famous Visit one of Tibet’s Tanggula pass on your Driving Distance & Duration holiest lakes, Lake Distance: 410 km way to Tibet itself Nam-tso Duration: 6.5 hours After a short drive south along the mountain and the massive Today’s drive from Naqu to the G109, the main road you glaciers that feed the Yangtze. Elevation Damxung is a short one through have used yesterday, you will Stop for a picnic lunch in the Highest Daytime: 5231m a beautiful landscape. leave the road behind as you wild before returning to the Overnight: 4520m drive west towards Mount road and entering Tibet over After lunch in Damxung, you Geladandong (6,621m). the Tanglha Range, taking will drive over the in one of the highest pass of Hotel to catch your first sight of Nam- Driving Distance & Duration After practicing some off-road the trip – at 5,231m – before Naqu Hotel, Naqu (***/****) tso’s glittering blue waters Distance: 290 km skills – including crossing dropping to Naqu, one of and drive to the island of Tashi Duration: 7 hours several small rivers – you Tibet’s highest towns and your Do – the best place to enjoy will climb to a lookout from overnight stop tonight. the dramatic scenery. The Elevation where you will be able to see saltwater lake lies at 4,750m, Highest Daytime: 4750m and is ringed to the south by Overnight: 4280m the Nyechen Tanglha mountain range, whose snow-capped Hotel peaks soar to over 7,000m – a Pema Hotel, Damxung (**) truly awe-inspiring setting.

After walking around the edge of the island on a kora circuit used by pilgrims, or taking a ride on horseback, you will return to Damxung for dinner in a local restaurant.

p71 Day 12 Day 13 In the evening, join our farewell The road initially runs south dinner, a great opportunity to Complete your through a wide valley, with the Visit Potala Palace look back over your amazing Driving Distance & Duration Elevation Nyechen Tanglha range to its journey. We hope that you journey with a Distance: 160 km and explore the old Highest Daytime: 3650m west. 75km from Damxung, you Duration: 3 hours city of Lhasa will return home with many Overnight: 3650m beautiful drive to your will pass Yangbachen, a major beautiful, new memories final destination geothermal hot-spot; keep an from your time on the road in Elevation After your long journey, today Hotel eye out for the area’s geysers Sichuan, Qinghai and Tibet. Highest Daytime: 4300m will be a day to enjoy simply Four Points Sheraton Lhasa Complete your long journey and jets of steam emerging Overnight: 3650m being in Lhasa. (*****) to Lhasa in an easy morning’s from various industrial-looking drive, arriving in this fabled city buildings. Soon you have Hotel We start the day with a visit in time for lunch overlooking arrived in Lhasa! Four Points Sheraton Lhasa the magnificent Potala Palace, the golden roofs of the (*****) which lies in the center of the Jokhang Temple. The remainder of the day will city, and wander through the be yours to spend as you wish richly decorated halls and Today’s drive is the shortest – that said, we will arrange for long and adventurous journey, chapels that were home to and simplest of your trip; a you to see the major Lhasa before joining a group dinner in generations of Dalai Lamas. quick jaunt down the G109 sights tomorrow. Therefore an atmospheric restaurant. After lunch we will arrange will bring you to your final this afternoon would be a a gentle walking tour around destination on this journey, great opportunity to relax in the the old city, where we will pass Lhasa! sunshine and reflect on your markets and workshops where Tibet’s traditional handicrafts are kept alive, as artisans paint thangkas and hammer out copper prayer wheels... Then we enter the holy precincts of the Jokhang Temple, one of Tibet’s most atmospheric religious sites with its yak butter lamps, clouds of juniper incense and pilgrims murmuring prayers around you. Day 14 Life must go on… Farewell Lhasa

This morning will be your last in Lhasa. Spend the time before your flight at leisure, perhaps eating brunch in the sunshine or wandering the old city’s streets, before transferring to the airport. Choice of Cars

We include in the package price end, the mood of journeys in an SUV we procure from Avis this region, no matter how or Hertz or another reputable comfortable or even luxurious car rental company. Most of the night’s hotel may be. the SUVs are Toyotas, but on occasion Mitsubishis or other What’s more, they offer brands may also make an sufficient clearance when appearance. required and thus add a sense of safety and all-round ability. We wish the car rental markets (4-wheel drive capability is of China would be more hardly needed in China these developed and we could give days since all roads are either you more choice, but this is not very well-paved or, with good so: since we want to provide gravel, offer solid support.) well-maintained and well- insured cars, the choice is And so SUVs from reputable rather limited. brands are our car of choice!

But SUVs are in fact the right choice for driving journeys in this part of the world because they are spacious enough to accommodate a lot of luggage, ANY car, photography equipment, and as long as good-and-bad-weather gear. Also, they reinforce the feeling it is an SUV” of adventure, exploration and discovery…which is, in the p76 p77 Adventures and Discoveries in Local Cuisines

While this itinerary is not one of Wine and beer is always our ‘Foodie’-themed journeys, included in our meals for you we do believe that each one of to enjoy. (When we travel into our journeys should introduce high-altitude, we suggest you not only to hidden gems of moderation!) cultural and scenic beauty, but that sampling local cuisines is Finally, if you have special also a must. dietary requirements are particularly interested in the Wherever you travel with us, culinary aspect of one of our we will order, with very few journeys, please let us know. exceptions, dishes fresh and on location with an emphasis For private journeys, we can, on local produce. It is not of course, tailor the meal uncommon for our guides to experience to your taste (and venture into the kitchen to pick budget). this, that or the other vegetable and to ask the cook to prepare them in the finest possible way. (On occasion we do preorder a meal: this will normally be the case only for special occasions!)

p78 What’s Included / Best Months to Go...

Generally speaking, our journey packages and • Travel Insurance – 24-hour medical prices are all-inclusive. Once you’ve paid and assistance, evacuation and repatriation you arrive at the starting point, you really won’t emergency service have to take out your wallet again. • Tips & Entrance Fees – basic tips and • Cars – a modern SUV is provided for all entrance fees for jointly attended activities are driving days, expertly maintained and included serviced by Avis, Hertz, or other reputable car rental companies, and covered by the • Activities, Meals, Transport during ‘free times’ best insurance available, and hire car return as indicated in this Journey Dossier from Lhasa to is also included • Top-up Collision Damage Waiver insurance • International Journey Host, Guide and Support Vehicle – you will be accompanied by a registered Chinese tour guide, an On the Road Experiences host and a fully equipped What’s Not Included lead car with a local support driver The only items not included are your flight to • Routes – we provide an extensively researched Chengdu and back from Lhasa, your China visa, and carefully designed itinerary and state-of- and personal purchases (e.g., gifts, souvenirs). the-art satellite navigation system with a pre- • Airport Transfers – all airport transfers are included on all driving days, as are drinks. programmed route for the journey. You will included Meals on non-driving days as specified above. also receive a detailed pre-departure pack Prepare for a culinary adventure! and route book for the journey • Permits and Logistics – all Tibet permits are included • Goodies – you will enjoy an On the Road Home- • Driving License – You will need a temporary Away-from-Home Kit containing wet towels, Chinese driving license for which all • Hotels – the best available or five-star anti-bacterial gel and basic toiletries, and a daily picnic basket containing fresh fruit, fruit arrangements and fees are included. accommodation is included in each overnight stop juice, water, and a mixture of sweets and nibbles • Fuel & Tolls – we provide petrol for the car • Meals – breakfast (a choice of Western and throughout the journey and pay all tolls Local is provided), and lunch and dinner are • Other Essentials – we provide each car with walky-talkies p80 p81p81 Photo Credits

© Jo James – pages 4, 26, 36, 38, 58, 93, 94-95, 96-97, 98-99, 100-101, 102 © Mareen Windisch – pages 86, 110 © Mel – page 112 © On – page 40, 104-105 © Peter Schindler – pages 3, 8, 10, 12, 28, 30, 32, 34, 44, 46, 48, 62, 64, 66, 74, 76, 89, 103, 104, 108-109, 110, 116, 118 © Ron Yue – Cover page, pages 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 42, 52, 54, 56, 60, 68, 70, 72, 78, 80, 82, 84, 88, 90-91, 92, 106-107, 108, 109, 111, 121 Unknown - pages 70-71, 84

p82 p83 Contact Us

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