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The Montes de Hierro Greenway

The new Montes de Hierro Greenways network is a journey through the underground history of Vizcaya. Because for centuries iron moulded the landscape, the life, and the character of this region, before the alchemy of the Guggenheim museum clad it in shining titanium.

This Greenway network is a must for anyone wishing to discover the roots of our cosmopolitan 21st century Greater by following the path of these iron arteries which in bygone days forged the city and its surroundings.

These trails whisper to their travellers a mute testimony from centuries gone by, relating legends from the Roman Empire to the Industrial Revolution and revealing like an open book all the secrets of the men and women of iron who were behind them.

TECHNICAL DATA

CONDITIONED GRRENWAY

Exploring the mining landscape of Las Encartaciones/.

LOCATON

Traslaviña () - Kobaron () BIZCAIA

Length: 42,5 Km

Users: * (*) Km 8: In the area of the quarry there is a short section with a significant slope

(*) Km 16: At the recreational area of La Aceña there is a steep incline and the temporary closure of a tunnel obliges users to take a provisional detour along a dirt track

(*) Km 39: On arriving at Playa de La Arena beach it is necessary to cross a short stretch of sand. For cyclists, skaters, those with baby buggies, and persons of restricted mobility, access to the section of the Itsaslur Greenway should be made via the village of Kobaron since the access via Pobeña requires negotiating a steep flight of steps

These latter obstacles are expected to be removed in the medium term thanks to an inter-territorial initiative affecting the costal path between Muskiz and Mioño () under the auspices of the Ministry of the Environment, Rural and Marine Affairs

: Section of bidegorri or cycle path between Gallarta – Playa de La Arena and the Pobeña – Kobaron section of the Itsaslur Greenway

Type of surface: Compacted gravel between the FEVE station at Traslaviña (Km 0) and Santelices (Muskiz) (Km 25). Tarmac between Santelices (Km 25) and Kobaron (Muskiz) (Km 42.5)

Natural settings: Mercadillo or Barbadun Valley. Salt marshes of the river Barbadun and Playa de La Arena in Muskiz. Regeneration forests. Views over the sea and of beautiful valleys covered with either Atlantic forest or plantations of pine and eucalyptus

Cultural heritage: Blast furnace in

Vizcaya suspension bridge, historical town centre, Salazar Tower, Basilica of Santa María, Santa Clara convent, Plaza de la Ranchería, Iron Pier, Town Hall, and Museum of Industry in .

San Félix de Cantalicio church in

Peñas Negras interpretation centre (La Arboleda).Museum of Mining in the Basque Country (Gallarta), calcining kilns of the San José and Lorenza mines, limestone needles at the Cristina mine, mine head belonging to the Ezequiela pit, Church of San Pedro (Las Carreras) and Church of Santa Juliana de Abanto-Ciérvana/Abanto-. Muñatones Castle and the El Pobal ironworks in Muskiz. Cave paintings in the Arenaza cave, Eskatxabel dolmen and Loizaga Tower/Rolls Royce Museum in . Museum of Las Encartaciones (former House of Assemblies) in the village of Avellaneda, calcining kilns and the old mining village and recreational area of Alén (Sopuerta). Remains of ironworks and iron mills on the banks of the river Barbadun, along which the Ironworks Route runs, a route which brings together the highest density of proto- industrial remains in Vizcaya, the star of which is the restored El Pobal ironworks. Moreover, the entire route of the Greenways is scattered with mining remains: minefields, mines, loaders, villages…

Infraestructure: Greenway (Traslaviña – Gallarta, and Pobeña-Kobaron) and bidegorri/cycle path (Gallarta – Playa de La Arena). 7 tunnels (3 with lighting), 7 buildings linked to mining operations (3 in ruins), 7 rest areas, 11 recreational areas, 1 play area in the recreational area of La Aceña, water fountains, benches, waste bins, and signage. The Santelices- Gallarta section is illuminated by lampposts

Recreational areas of Tuetxe, Santa Cruz and La Toba in Artzentales; Alén, San Roque de Carral, El Alisal and La Baluga in Sopuerta; La Aceña/Atxuriaga and Aguasjuntas in Galdames; Siete Robles and El Cerrillo in Abanto-Zierbena; and Rebortun in Muskiz

How to get there: Feve. Bilbao – Santander Line. Traslaviña Station (Artzentales) . Sestao Station. Railway. Suburban network. Line C 1. Bilbao-: Sestao and Portugalete stations. Line C 2. Bilbao-Muskiz: Urioste (Ortuella), Gallarta (Abanto-Zierbena), Putxeta (Abanto- Zierbena) and Muskiz. Galdames stations: Bus Empresa Encartaciones (Bizkaibus). Lines A3323, A3334, A3336 and A3337. Artzentales: Bus (Bizkaibus). Line A0652

Connections: Bilbao: 20 km to Gallarta.

Maps to use: National Geographic Institute Map:scale 1:25.000. Sheet 61-I. Ministry of Development Official Road Map.

Further information in the Greenways Guide, volume III

DESCRIPTION

Tramo I. Vía Verde del Alimoche-Galdames: De Traslaviña a Gallarta Km. 0 / Km. 4 / Km. 10 / Km. 12 / Km. 14 / Km. 16 / Km. 23 / Km. 27 Tramo II. Carril bici / bidegorri: De Gallarta a la Vía Verde de Itsaslur Km. 31 Tramo III. Vía Verde de Itsaslur. De Pobeña a Kobaron Km. 39 / Km. 42,5

Introducción

The original purpose of the network of Montes de Hierro Greenways was to join the two existing Greenways in the rural district of Las Encartaciones/Enkarterri, on the of the Bilbao estuary: the Itsaslur Greenway and the Galdamesa Greenway. In 2011 the latter extended its route by 15 km to reach the FEVE station at Traslaviña, following the path of the old Castro- Traslaviña railway line. For 2012 a further extension of the route is planned in the direction of the Bilbao estuary: Sestao, Portugalete and .

All the railway routes share a common feature, their mining origins, linked to the extraction of high quality iron ore, which centuries ago was renowned throughout Europe, even getting a mention in the works of Shakespeare. And in the more recent past, iron drove the industrial development of the entire area (with companies such as ), giving rise both to the birth of the Basque bourgeoisie and of the labour movement and its most emblematic leaders.

The existence of the Montes de Hierro Greenways network is thanks to the efforts and collaboration of many nameless people, public institutions and small local associations: the Ministry of the Environment and Rural and Marine Affairs, the Spanish Railways Foundation, FEVE, the Basque Government, the Regional Government of Vizcaya, Basquetour, ADR Enkarterrialde, Enkartur, the Mancomunidad (Commonwealth) de Las Encartaciones, several town councils (Abanto-Zierbena, Arzentales, Barakaldo, Galdames, Muskiz, Portugalete, Sopuerta, Sestao, Zierbena…) and many more besides, all of which have enthusiastically taken part in this joint project for more than 10 years.

We invite you to start the Montes de Hierro Greenways from km 0, at Traslaviña train station. Or from wherever you prefer. Design the route of your choice as from July 2011 on the web page at www.montesdhierro.com.

Section I. Alimoche Greenway - Galdames: From Traslaviña to Gallarta

Km 0

The Montes de Hierro Greenways set off from the Traslaviña train station on the present Bilbao–Santander FEVE line. From here we can also access the Ironworks Route and the GR-281 footpath (which takes us through to the heights which border on the river Kadagua). There is an active service point, at 0 km, Burdinkleta.

If we take the Greenway, we will arrive at Las Barrietas by following the crystalline waters of the river Kolitza, through two tunnels (87 and 147 metres in length, respectively), an old iron mill and a pretty wooden footbridge crossing the river.

Km 4

On the far bank we are greeted by the ruins of another iron mill and of an old mineral ore loader next to the old train station. At this point the junction with the road leading up to the former mining village of Alén invites us to make a detour from the Greenway to discover mountain bloomeries (ironworks) dating back to over 2,000 years ago, in a zone now equipped as a recreational area.

Km 10

If we continue along the Greenway flanked by forest on either side, in a short while we will be able to see the spectacular crags which are home to the Egyptian vulture, an unusual bird in danger of extinction. Then, after travelling across the top of the Sopuerta quarry, we arrive at the village of El Castaño, where we are greeted by an old railway wagon inviting us to visit the Catalina mine complex, famous for its two calcining kilns and the Los Herreros tunnel, a 2 km long bore which was excavated by pick and shovel in the first half of the 20th century. The El Alisal recreational area is also nearby.

The tunnel, an impressive feat of engineering, allows the railway to pass under the Muñecas Pass and reappear in the Cantabrian Otañes valley, before finally arriving at the site of the once magnificent cantilever loading arm which used to overhang the cliffs at Castro-Urdiales before it was swept away in a gale. The long-awaited refurbishment of this tunnel may one day enable the route of the Greenway to reach the original destination of the Traslaviña – Castro railway; the sea.

Km 12

After passing through another tunnel and leaving behind the Ermita del Pilar chapel we reach Sopuerta Abentura, an attractive family adventure park offering a variety of activities (see www.sopuerta-abentura.com).

Km 14

Pressing on beyond the Jarralta dam loading facility we arrive at El Arenao (where we rejoin the Ironworks Route), before reaching the old railway bridge, now refurbished as a majestic wooden footbridge over the road. A little further on, another wooden footbridge over the river Barbadun (teeming with trout and also salmon to an increasingly greater extent) and a short tunnel under the road lead us through a wetland area to La Aceña, where the former Sestao-Galdames and Castro-Traslaviña railways used to meet.

Km 16

In order to reach La Aceña we need to climb a steep slope, although we can the regain our strength by taking a rest at its recreational area, with picnic tables, a kiddies’ playground, and a beautiful riverside walk around the Tardía and mines. This is the site of an old mining village which today is occupied by a pleasant reservoir, now used as a trout fishing reserve. In the vicinity there is a bar-restaurant, accommodation, and a sport area with a car park which once again connects us with the GR-281 footpath. There is a plan to set up a bike rental point at the old railway station. There is an active service point at 16 km, Kirik. In addition, at km 16, there is an educational area called Parque Infantil de la Naturaleza (PIN) (Nature Playground).

If we continue along the Greenway through a series of tunnels, such as the Vallejas tunnel and the Malpeña tunnel (also known as the “Witch’s Tunnel”) and one or two more, we pass through the Galdames valley to the Mercadillo valley through a succession of shades of green, which is a constant companion on our journey, until we arrive at the village of El Cerco. Here there used to be another ore train loading facility, of which little survives; only strange embankments and walls forming a railway cutting, and, to our right, a circular depression which used to house a railway turntable for the locomotives needing to turn around at this point.

Km 23

Continuing through the tree covered landscape, a constant of this section, we arrive at Santelices, where a crossroads offers us the possibility of leaving the Greenway, either to drop down to the El Pobal ironworks or to climb up to the Peñas Negras Mining Interpretation Centre and the mining village of La Arboleda. This latter detour takes us high into the Montes de Triano hills and affords us a view of a spectacular landscape where we

can see a large number of abandoned mining operations and the way they have been integrated into the landscape, often in the form of reservoirs and lakes. Nevertheless, it is worth carrying on along the Greenway another 8 km further to the village of Gallarta.

Km 27

In Gallarta the Basque Mining Museum awaits us with its spectacular views over the Concha Mine which, having been excavated under the original village for decades, now has galleries which are below sea level.

As we continue along the route, punctuated by magnificent views of the village of Putxeta, the Pozo Gerente reservoir, and Playa de La Arena beach, we come across the Borja Mine loader, the El Sobaco tunnel (a 150 metre long tunnel which is disproportionately wide for a narrow gauge railway, equipped with excellent lighting and with a pavement for pedestrians), and the Cotorrio hostel. And further on still we reach the ruins of the El Once loading facility (so called because it is eleven kilometres from the start of the Sestao-Galdames railway line, ‘once’ being the Spanish for ‘eleven’), where we find the end of a long inclined plane, the largest in the area, which used to serve the Saúco Mines at Galdames. After the Picón bend a recreational area invites us to take a break next to the old Los Castaños station. The depression which used to house the turntable where the small locomotives used to turn around still exists today, now converted into a neat little pond.

If we continue along the Greenway, the old San Fermín inclined plane and the Calcos Viejos tunnel (50 m long) lead us towards an urban section where the Greenway runs parallel to the motor traffic, so we will need to take extra care here. After leaving the village, home to the former Hospital Minero de Triano (Triano Mining Hospital), the Mining Museum and the Concha Mine, we rejoin a quieter section, where the Greenway splits in two. One fork takes us to the sea and the other to the Bilbao estuary.

Section II. Cycle path / bidegorri: from Gallarta to the Itsaslur Greenway

Km 31

Until the imminent refurbishment of the Benedicta tunnel in Sestao restores the original route of the iron ore to the Bilbao estuary where shortly the Greenway will link up with the cycle path (bidegorri) network of Greater Bilbao, we recommend the following

route to the sea. We will need to take the bidegorri to our left next to the recreational area which has been set up next to Gallarta’s football ground, following the spectacular bucket line of the Orconera Iron Company, for the barely 8 km stretch separating us from the Cantabrian Sea, the Playa de la Arena beach, and the cliff top Itsaslur Greenway.

At this point it is worth mentioning the Orconera Iron Company’s aerial bucket tramway. This tramway, which used to link the Carmen VII mine in Ortuella with the ore washing facility at Pobeña in Muskiz, could be considered to be the last link in the Montes de Hierro Greenways network. While the original route is impossible to restore (since it was an aerial transport system), the remains of this great engineering feat –considered in its day to be the most important in Europe due to its technical perfection and its length (8 km)-, has spawned another traffic free route in the form of the bidegorri or cycle path which runs between Abanto-Zierbena and Muskiz.

Section III. Itsaslur Greenway. From Pobeña to Kobaron

Km 39

Once we set foot on the ferrous red beach at Playa de La Arena, it is worth stopping to take a stroll around the dunes and salt marshes, home to such beautiful birds as the heron and such strange birds as the cormorant, before finishing off our journey by accessing the Itsaslur Greenway via a short flight of steps at Pobeña on the far side of the bridge which spans the Barbadun river. Here we can still find traces of the old bucket line, and we link up with another important cultural asset, the Way of St James, and a hostel for pilgrims of that route.

Km 42,5

After taking the opportunity to admire the unique mining heritage site of the El Castillo, Josefa and Amalia Vizcaína coastal mines, where a few years ago the sea swept away the only Vizcayan loading facility capable of loading ships on the open sea, we reach our final destination. Later we can enjoy a well- earned rest at the recreational area which signals the end of our marathon journey. Although… after having a rest, those who are eager for more can follow the path on to the Piquillo Greenway, which takes us to the beautiful seaside town and fishing port of Castro Urdiales and the province of Cantabria.

Further information about the Itsaslur Greenway.

MAPS

PROFILE

RAILWAY HISTORY

Línea Castro – Traslaviña. Este, era también un ferrocarril minero. Fue en 1914 cuando se estableció la compañía concesionaria: Ferrocarril de San Julián de Musques a Castro Urdiales y Traslaviña. Nació con la pretensión de unir el ferrocarril de Triano con el Santander-Bilbao. Su actividad fue la del transporte de mercancías, siendo a partir de 1922 explotado por los Ferrocarriles del Estado. En 1966 fue cerrado debido a la baja rentabilidad, provocada en buena parte por la crisis minera. Desde hace unos años se trabaja tanto en parte vasca como en el municipio cántabro de Castro Urdiales por hacer posible su recuperación como vía verde.

Línea Sestao – Galdames. Fue allá por el año 1876 cuando los empresarios ingleses de la Bilbao River Cantabrian Rail inauguraron un ferrocarril de 22 km queunía sus explotaciones mineras del municipio de Galdames con losmuelles del Nervión en Sestao. Fue el más largo y el único de losferrocarriles mineros de esta zona que comunicaba el Nervión conla cara occidental de los montes de Triano.

Su sinuosísimo trazado contó con un ancho peculiar (1,14 m) y por sus raíles, además de transportarse la producción de sus propias minas en Galdames, se movieron los

minerales de todas las minas vecinas al ferrocarril. Así, numerosos cargaderos jalonaban esta ruta. El más singular de ellos se situaba en el barrio de La Florida. A este punto arribaba un excepcional plano inclinado de casi 4 Km. de longitud que, desde la Mina Sauco, llegaba al ferrocarril. Fue uno de los planos más largos de España y contaba con seis estaciones intermedias para el trasiego de sus vagonetas.

Además de transportar mineral al puerto y a las acerías bilbaínas, sus carriles soportaron un tráfico, más o menos regular, de trenes de viajeros. Estos pasajeros no eran otros que mineros que, aprovechando la facilidad de transporte ofrecida por este ferrocarril, fueron asentándose en sus márgenes, creando nuevos barrios mineros en plena montaña: La Balastrera, La Aceña, Saúco... Tras la Guerra Civil fue otra empresa con nombre anglosajón la que adquirió el trazado ferroviario, la Babock & Wilcox, entidad que gestionó la explotación hasta el año 1968. Cuatro años más tarde, en 1972, las vías fueron desmanteladas y su camino quedó expedito para nuevos usos.

El ferrocarril de Covarón. Hacia 1860 la sociedad The Vizcaya and Santander Mining Cº Ltd inicia la explotación de las minas San Julián y Amalia Vizcaína en el barrio de Kobaron (Muskiz. Bizkaia). Pero es la compañía del ingeniero escocés José Mac Lennan quien una década más tarde impulsa la explotación y comercialización industrial del mineral. Para dar salida a la producción de rubios y carbonato de hierro la compañía Mac Lennan construye un ferrocarril de ancho métrico y 2,6 km de longitud, entre el paraje de El Covarón y el cargadero costero de Campomar, donde embarcaba en dirección a Durham (Inglaterra). El primigenio sistema a sangre es sustituido por locomotoras de vapor en 1895, cuyos talleres y depósitos se situaron en la misma estación de El Cobarón.

Más adelante la línea principal se alargaría con un segundo e inconexo tramo ferroviario de 500 mm de anchura. El conoció como Ferrocarril del Carrascal arrastraban el mineral de las minas San Francisco y Consolación, en la zona de el Carrascal, hasta la estación de El Cobarón, donde trasvasaba el mineral, mediante dos planos inclinados de 20 metros, en el ferrocarril de Compomar. En el año 1963 cesa toda actividad minera y el cargadero embarcaba su última remesa.

INTERESTING DATA

1. Festivals and holidays 2. Accommodation 3. Eco-tourism 4. Managing Authority 5. Town Councils 6. Emergencies 7. Coaches & buses 8. Railway

Festivals and holidays

Artzentales August 5 Nuestra Señora de las Nieves

September 2 San Antolín

September 8 Nuestra Señora de Traslaviña

September 14 Exaltación de Santa Cruz

September 29 Festividad de San Miguel

Sopuerta May 3 Sta. Cruz

June 24 San Bartolomé

July 26 Santa Ana

August 15 Andra Mari, Mercadillo

August 16 San Roque

Galdames June 29 San Pedro

June 30 Santa Lucía

December 24 Ogi Eguna

Muskiz June 24 San Juan

Third Sunday of September Feria agrícola y ganadera

Fourth Saturday in September Feria de caza y pesca

Abanto-Ciérvana/Abanto-Zierbena March 19 San José

June 13 San Antonio de Padua

June 29 San Pedro

June 30 Santa Lucía

Ortuella May 18, San Félix de Cantalicio

Accommodation

Artzentales Agroturismo La Toba Telf: 946 109 611- 616 859 920 www.nekatur.net/latoba

Hotel y Albergue Amalurra Tel.: 946 109 540 www.amalurra.com

Albergue C.A.R. La Estación Telf: 946 109 004 / 670 413 102 www.laestacion.com

Casa Rural Kolitza Telf: 670 74 73 92 www.casaruralkolitza.com

Sopuerta Apartamentos rurales pikatzaenea Tel.: 617 471 936 / 637 119 556 [email protected] www.pikatzaenea.com

Casa Rural Urrezko Ametsa Tel.: 946 104 898 / 627 270 797 [email protected] www.urrezko.es

Casa Rural Enkartada Tel.: 638 579 183 / 946 104 005 [email protected] www.enkartada.com

Agroturismo Lezamakoetxe Tel.: 946 504 237 / 630 173 912 [email protected] www.nekatur.com/lezamakoetxe

Casa Rural Batzarkide Telf: 946 504 201 www.hotelbatzarkide.com

Galdames Albergue de Txábarri Tel. 94 650 41 54 www.galdames.org

Albergue Areitz Soroa Tel. 94 610 49 10 www.areitzsoroa.com

Hotel rural El Puente La Aceña. Tel. 94 610 46 62

Muskiz Hotel Muskiz* Tel. 94 670 78 28 www.hotelmuskiz.com

Hotel Palacio Muñatones* Tel. 94 633 88 71 www.hotelpalaciomunatones.com

Hotel Las Palmeras Tel. 946 706 392 www.laspalmerashotelrural.com

Pensión Eguzkilore Tel. 94 670 82 74

Casa rural Labeondo-Museo Txakoli Tel. 94 670 61 11 www.labeondo.com

Apartamentos Mugarri Barrio de Pobeña. Tel.: 946 707 799 / 617 038 292 www.apartamentosmugarri.com

Albergue Pobeña Telf: 946 708 037; 636 515 438

Abanto-Ciérvana/Abanto-Zierbena Apartamentos La Arena Tel. 946 365 454 www.laarena.com

Casa rural San Pedro Tel. 946 368 766 www.arsanpedro.com

Albergue Municipal (Barrio de Cotorrio) Tel. 94 636 20 00

Ortuella Hotel Ortuella** Tel. 94 635 32 04 www.hotelortuella.com

Eco-tourism

Balmaseda Tourism Office (headquarter Enkartur) Tel.946 802 976 / 946 800 226; www.enkartur.net; [email protected]

Sopuerta Tourism Office Tel.94 610 40 28; [email protected]

Tourist Information Point Muskiz Tel. 946706567; 636 515438 [email protected]

Bicycle Loan Service -Bilbo Bizi. (Bilbao). Tel. 94 656 49 05 www.bilbao.net

Environmental Interpretation Center of Peñas Negras (Ortuella) Tel. 94 633 80 97 y 94 427 79 17

BTQ Events and Services. (Muskiz) Canoeing. Tel. 656 795 601 www.btqeventos.com

Erauntzi Surf Taldea. Surf. Playa de La Arena (Muskiz). Tel. 658 755 472

Areitz Soroa School of Environmental Education (Galdames) Tel. 94 650 41 54

Torre Loizaga (Galdames). Rolls-Royce museum www.torreloizaga.com

Mining Museum in the Basque Country (Gallarta). Tel. 94 636 36 82. www.museominero.net

Encartaciones museum. (Sopuerta) Tel. 946 504 488 / 946 104 815; www.enkarterrimuseoa.net; [email protected]

Sopuerta Aventure (Sopuerta).Tel. 637 443 074 www.sopuerta-abentura.com

Ferreria El Pobal. Ctra. Muskiz-Sopuerta. Tel: 629 271 516 www.bizkaia.net; [email protected]

Managing Authority

Enkarterrialde. Asociación de Desarrollo de Enkartaciones Bº de San Miguel, s/n 48870 Artzentales- BIZKAIA Telf: 946 109 590 e-mail: [email protected] Web: www.enkarterrialde.org

Diputación Foral de Bizkaia. Departamento de Medio Ambiente Alameda Rekalde, 30. 4º 48009 Bilbao Telf: 944 067 700 Fax: 944 068 615 e-mail: [email protected]

Town Councils

Artzentales Tel. 946 109 655 www.artzentales.org

Sopuerta Tel. 946 504 052 www.sopuerta.org

Galdames Barrio de San Pedro Tel. 946 504 433 www.galdames.org

Muskiz Tel. 946 706 000 www.muskiz.org

Abanto-Ciérvana/Abanto-Zierbena Tel. 946 362 000 www.abanto-zierbena.org

Ortuella Tel. 946 640 200 www.ortuella.biz

Emergencies

EMERGENCIES: Tel. 112

Coaches & buses

Encartaciones-Bizkaiabus. Tel. 946 363 424. www.encartaciones.es

Railway

Renfe. Tel. 902 240 202. www.renfe.es

LINKS www.turismoa.euskadi.net Official Website Tourism of the Basque Government. www.btteuskadi.net Official Website of Euskadi MTB Centres www.senderismoeuskadi.net Official site for hiking in Euskadi www.bizkaia.net Website of the Provincial Council of Bizkaia www.mybilbaobizkaia.com Tourism page Bizkaia Provincial Council. www.enkartur.net Tourism resources page of the region of the Encartaciones www.nekatur.net Accommodation rural tourism