Alessandra Rich Oscar de la Renta Alexander Wang Peter Pilotto Your MUSE Alice Peter Som What better way to anticipate the new Autumn Winter 2011 season than with the 9th Ashi Ports 1961 edition of Muse? Welcome to another magazine bursting with the latest looks from our Azzaro Prabal Gurung fantastic designers. Balmain Preen Carolina Herrera Proenza Schouler As of this Fall season, Muse will be available as an iPad application. Now you can browse Carven Rabih Kayrouz through the magazine, accessing all the trends and latest designs with one click. E-mail Christian Louboutin Randa Khalil Raad Jewellery us directly through the application to inquire about every look you love in Muse available Christian Siriano Roksanda Ilincic at AlOthman, and gain instant access to the AlOthman website, our O blog and Clements Ribeiro Roland Mouret our Online Outlet. With this technology at your fingertips, planning your new season’s David Szeto Shi wardrobe could not be simpler! Derek Lam Temperley London Diane Von Furstenberg Theysken's Theory In our last edition, I mentioned plans for our exclusive Bridal boutique in Kuwait; We Edun The Row can now confirm the location will be opening in Maryam Complex this August. Here Elie Saab brand directory Thierry Mugler every bride will be able to find her dream gown with designers such as Oscar dela Elizabeth and James Vera Wang Renta, Monique Lhuillier, Marchesa and Elie Saab. Our intention is to provide the most Erdem Victoria Beckham personalized service possible, as we know that every bride is unique. Within the store Erin VPL there is an exclusive and intimate private lounge for the bride to gather with her loved Hakaan Zero + Maria Cornejo ones, and experience the fantasy of choosing her gown. J. Mendel Jason Wu bridal That is my update for the moment; of course you can always catch up on the latest news Jonathan Saunders Ashi on our O Blog. Once again I am taking this opportunity to thank everybody for their hard Joseph Carolina Herrera work, enabling this edition of Muse to happen. I would also like to thank you, our readers, Lela Rose Christian Louboutin for your wonderful support. Maia N Check out our blog Elie Saab Marchesa www.alothmanblog.com Giambattista Valli A celebration of fashion, Muse number nine. Marios Schwab Marchesa Enjoy. Matthew Williamson Monique Lhuillier Monique Lhuillier Oscar de la Renta Naeem Khan Rabih Kayrouz Nicholas Kirkwood Vera Wang 2 Do not compete with this color. Allow righten up your winter with the color- it to take center stage by pairing it with B Erdem

Edun blocking trend, which we have seen with a nude shoes and simple jewelry. simple black and maroon mix from Jonathan

Peter Pilotto Saunders, Preen’s gorgeous orange and black contrast, and Zero + Maria Cornejo’s

Jonathan Saunders geometric color pairings. Carven Matthew Williamson Diane Von Diane Von Furstenberg Alice Cornejo Zero + Maria Peter Pilotto BLOCK IT UP Diane Von Furstenberg Diane Von THE BLUES Preen Matthew Williamson Roksanda Ilincic Naeem Khan Christian Louboutin

Black is always a runway regular, but this season cobalt Christian Louboutin blue has stolen the spotlight. We saw this stunning hue in Alessandra Rich

Preen lacy dresses by Erdem and Carven, Diane Von Furstenberg’s If the color blocking is neutral, you can still Preen sequin gown, and even Christian Louboutin’s “Rollergirl” get away with colored shoes! If the shades Erdem Proenza Schouler velvet flat. This shade pops on any skin tone, and is a are loud, then don’t overwhelm your outfit 4 refreshing change from Fall’s usual neutrals. with bright accessories. 5 Christian This Fall is not a time to be shy, as we have seen Louboutin

many dresses showing a little leg with sultry slits. Alice Preen Nicholas Alessandra Rich created just enough allure by Kirkwood Roksanda Ilincic adding high slits to her otherwise modest gowns. Carven

Elie Saab and Jonathan Saunders also show us Matthew Williamson how to balance a slit with longer sleeves.

Erdem Alessandra Rich

Proenza GROOVY BABY Naeem Khan Schouler Elie Saab Jonathan Saunders

Roksanda Ilincic This style is very natural, so embrace the look with soft flowing waves and plenty of bracelets! Clements Ribeiro hannel your inner Farrah Fawcett Elizabeth C and with Alice’s floral prints, Carven’s James

Balmain mustard hues, and Matthew Williamson’s shaggy vest. Elizabeth and James was also bursting with UP TO THERE hippie styles that stay true to Mary- Kate and Ashley’s design aesthetic. Theory

Matthew Williamson Complete your outfit with far-out Theysken’s wedges from Nicholas Kirkwood.

Add a sky-high platform, like Christian Louboutin’s “Volpi” pumps to really show off those legs.

Elie Saab 6 Erin Christian Louboutin 7 Collars and hems are experiencing full on detailing and drama on runways Temperley this Fall season. Whether it’s a frilly collar on Marchesa’s tulle creation, or London feathered trims on Matthew Williamson and Oscar de la Renta’s skirts, these

Naeem Khan adorning elements will naturally place you under the spotlight. Monique Lhuillier Christian Siriano

Marchesa The Row COLLARS & HEMS Erdem

Matthew Williamson Temperley London Temperley

This season marks the return of the classic and

the very captivating one- Carolina Herrera shoulder gown. Some designers brought major attention to the shoulder Elie Saab with decorative bows and ruffles as seen on Carolina Herrera and Temperley London. Other designers THE COLD SHOULDER like Lela Rose and Monique London Temperley

Lhuillier softly enfolded it Keep that shoulder bare by wearing your hair up Roksanda Ilincic with delicate tulle. Either in a high bun or ponytail, but don’t be afraid to go way this trend will never for those statement earrings or bold cuff. Don’t consider a necklace that will compete with the dress! Keep the focus on the hems and collars by fail to deliver the grace and Carven Oscar de la Renta

Christian Siriano minimizing the accessories. Balance the elegance in an evening Lela Rose dramatic pieces with simpler fitted ones. 8 gown or cocktail dress. 9 AlOthman Blog is the number one destination for fashion enthusiasts and shopaholics in Kuwait. It provides a daily editorial of the hottest and THE O BLOG most sought after designer clothes and accessories carried by AlOthman. A Chat With This issue, we present you with a special Q&A with Alessandra Rich. alothmanblog.com What’s piece of advice would you give someone wanting to start a career in fashion design?

How do you keep your collections new and fresh while still staying Approach fashion with true to your style of determination, quality and design? precision and don't be afraid to communicate new ideas and build What is your favorite your own identity. It's hard piece from this Fall 2011 work but the feedback can be so collection? rewarding at the same time.

I don't think about I want to create stylish favourites. Each day my dresses that feel modern choice would be different and wearable. Each season the depending on my feelings and collection is evolving, with new what I am doing. materials and concepts, but the identity of Alessandra Rich is always embodied in the design. What is the most challenging part about being a designer? We admire how you work with lace in your collections, what other fabrics do you enjoy working with?

Transforming the creative idea into a dress in the I like to experiment with lace as it boutique. Each step from design, serves to dress the body but discreetly fabric research, manufacturing show the skin, but every fabric and presentation presents a has its own allure. I enjoy working challenge that requires a with our fabric manufacturers and different set of skills. often challenge their skills to create something unique for me.

10 11 Alessandra Rich

Candid among brocade and decorated rosettes and scented by lace and incense, the new Alessandra Rich woman is ready to complete her daily ritual of beauty and femininity.

12 13 Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang Fall 11 collection playfully follows the dogma of a rich girl with silk lounge wear, sweeping silhouettes and tufted fur shoes. Playing on the stereotypes of wealth, decadence is shaken from its vortex when fused with extreme sports, and remixed in an irreverent way. Outerwear is the building block for the collection and stands out with exaggerated detailing of fur accents, tuxedo lapels and sporty puffer sleeves. Parka and windbreaker elements disrupt polished wool coats, while cummerbunds unexpectedly adorn track pants.

14 1515 Alice

Inspired by Josephine Baker, Autumn/Winter 2011 combines embellishments and vintage style lace appliqués with a bold animal print, deco inspired prints, beaded jersey and faux fur. An opulent and rich collection, it brings a little more glamour to the ALICE by Temperley line by expanding the eveningwear offer and injecting more Temperley DNA into the collection. With a full year of ALICE collections under the belt, the brand has now come into its own with a definable identity that distinguishes it from adjacent contemporary brands.

16 17 Balmain

Decarnin and his new stylist, Melanie Ward (who replaced Emmanuelle Alt after the latter was elevated to the editor in chief role at Paris Vogue), traded the punk influences of last season for glam rock, swapping Sid's version of "My Way" for David Bowie's "Lady Grinning Soul" off Aladdin Sane. Bowie's Thin White Duke was all over the Fall men's collections, but it was Ziggy Stardust in his spangled glory who seemed to be the inspiration behind today's crystal- encrusted jumpsuits. The all-in-ones were a first for Decarnin's Balmain, hard as that may be to believe given how thoroughly the designer has plumbed the seventies for ideas.

When this collection hits the stores, some of the first pieces to go will be the metallic leather peaked-lapel blazers, one ice blue, the other yellow gold. They delivered the trademark house sizzle, but in a fresh, powerful way. And without all the embroidered glitz, they'll ring up quite a savings at the register. As questions swirl, it's a new day at Balmain.

18 19 Carolina Herrera

The Carolina Herrera Fall 2011 collection focuses on linear structure and shifting proportion, toward or away from the form. A clear outline traces the defined waist, sleeves--emphasized for day and evening--and the sculpted neckline. Wool and cashmere of varying weights are accented with fur or embroidery. Airy silks and crepe de chines transform to liquid in motion. Embroidery appears as texture without motif or pattern. The colors have a graceful simplicity: amethyst, sapphire, turquoise, primrose, jasper red, clay, black and cocoa.

20 21 Carven

This winter, the CARVEN woman is militant, committed and staunch. The colours and materials of her wardrobe are influenced by military intelligence. Khaki, beige and taupe predominate on heavy wool-look fabrics that are both functional and sturdy.

Like a secret agent in a Paris winter, this season the CARVEN woman will be strong, elegant, artistic and regal.

22 23 Christian Louboutin

This Winter at Christian Louboutin, glamour and rock’n’roll go side by side, and natural materials are matched against precious fabrics.

Black boots, loafers and men’s sneakers are studded, spiked, made of velvet and satin, while furs literally explode on crocodile and leather pumps.

Chartreuse, purple, red…all these multicolored heels are like a fresh breath of the 60s.

In Christian Louboutin’s fantasy world, lionesses bare their strassed claws, fauns put on their gazelle hooves and griffins spread their wings on the women’s shoulders at nightfall.

24 25 Christian Siriano

The look for this collection "came organically. It struck me naturally as I was researching images of plant life looking for inspiration for prints last season, and then all of a sudden it literally came to me from these organic inspirations. I read about these dark plants that only survive out of sunlight, beautiful leaves and blossoms that come up black and thrive in the dark. I have had my dark moments in past collections but this time I let the dark thrive in the same way. I wouldn't say the collection explores dark themes, though. The clothes themselves are very beauty-centric, I focused on the delicate and the intricate. There is color involved; we have some greens and a beautiful mauve, and the shades of black and gray really helped me work more with different types of luxurious textures. I wanted some of the folds and sculptures of this collection to mimic the qualities of these plants. " - Christian Siriano

26 27 Clements Ribeiro

For autumn winter 2011 Suzanne "and I have continued with our love of the mid-length and we have evolved this into the silhouettes and shapes which ensure that the pieces are ultra feminine. Although the mid-length was perceived as daring, this has now been considered as more flattering as it creates a longer, thinner shape. We had wanted something grown up and elegant, without losing freshness, romantic but still remaining dark. Victorian gothic and Venetian textiles are presented through the deep colour palette and dark embellishment, whilst a long billowing silhouette is accentuated by high stacked shoes. Decadent lace adds to the essence of the Victorian gothic feel that is black and glazed, in big crochet like tights or interpreted in print, fading to nothing, resembling Havishan. "- Clements Ribeiro

28 29 David Szeto

Inspired partly by black and white Hollywood spaghetti western films, and the glamour of Marlene Dietrich in Destry Rides Again. The influence of the late Millicent Rogers, the Standard Oil heiress’s mixture of couture and her love for Native Amercian jewelery is apparent for this Fall/Winter 2011. Draped dresses in jersey with it’s couture feeling, (think Grés) contrast the rest of this sometimes rugged western attire. Prints such as floral ‘liberty/ Japanese kimono’ prints and ‘American Indian’ rugs made into soft blouses and ponchos, are often contrasted with silk leopard fringing. The changing silhouette, 1955’s Dior’s A-line, could be responsible for this season’s very narrow shoulders and looseness around the hips in jackets, coats and dresses. The line remains feminine, with the use of jersey, wools and silk cut on the bias, gliding with the wearing as she moves.

30 31 Derek Lam

In this collection, I have used "new combinations to make clothes look fresh, fluid, weightless, yet also appropriate for the Fall/ Winter season. Some of the new combinations are logical: sleeves and backs of heavier weight clothing are made of slippery cloths. The usual layering of clothes are lightened, the arm slips easily under coats; the bulk is eliminated where you don’t want it. Tunics in flannel, doubleface jersey and military gabardine are combined with liquid twills and laundered poplins on bottom. These light weight fabrics snap around and against the body, enhancing the sense of speed in movement, as a relief to the more rigid cloths. The use of fabrics in an outfit, cloths usually considered more for warmer weather, the silky twills (like lining fabrics), the laundered crepes and poplins are used liberally to blur the idea of seasonal clothing. " - Derek Lam 32 33 Diane Von Furstenberg

Muses and artists... travelers "and settlers… always pushing the boundaries with strength and panache. – Diane" Von Furstenberg and Yvan Mispelaere

34 35 Edun

Edun presents the FW11 Women's Collection "Storytellers and Liars," the second collection for Edun under the creative direction of Sharon Wauchob. The theme “Storytellers and Liars” explores storytelling as it changes over time in various cultures.

Who is the storyteller and who is the liar?, the clothes ask light- heartedly. When does a story become a lie? The pieces translate this notion through prints and the juxtaposition of fabrics with carefully selected iconic references repurposed to create a feeling that is completely fresh and new.

The collection also carries Edun’s personalized, signature handcrafted detailing, specifically knotting and embroidery.

36 37 Elie Saab

Like a modern-day Belle de Jour fresh from the set of a Luis Buñuel film, the ELIE SAAB woman dons a tall, slim silhouette, the epitome of Parisian chic.

Slightly flared silhouettes are structured with aplomb, recalling the perfectly matte black of the Sixties, while scuba-inspired sheath dresses in crêpe dialogue with the perfect fit of looks in fresh stretch wool. Box pleats and formfitting, wraparound draping provide a counterpoint to the wool crepe jackets subtly crafted with lace and chiffon openwork, which bring a couture spirit to the collection.

For evening, pleated, ribbed looks in aubergine, ecru or pale gray. The last passages twinkle like constellations in silver-white, dark purple and black. Chic returns with welcome simplicity.

38 39 Elie Saab

40 41 Elizabeth and James

Elizabeth and James Fall 2011 collection seeks inspiration in opposing elements - masculine and feminine, light and dark, classic and contemporary. Manifest in an eclectic mix of materials, fabrics and silhouettes, each piece is rooted with a modern elegance while channeling retro glamour.

A smart, high waist trouser, a bell-sleeved printed dress and a hand crochet pullover are Fall womenswear silhouettes and textures reminiscent of bohemian chic style of 1970's icons. Blush and taupe infuse the collection with a ready femininity while leather detailing evokes toughness. Fur ponchos, vests, coats and trimmed parkas add a polished, rock-and-roll tinge.

Elizabeth and James continues to push boundaries, creating progressive wardrobe staples for a modern, multi-faceted customer.

42 43 Erdem

Inspired by the likes of Jackson Pollack and Cy Twombley, artists whose wives were strongly influential in their work and lives, Erdem takes his collection to a level of sophistication and maturity. His A/W 11 woman embodies an artists’ wife and muse, whom has torn apart his canvases, reworking the masterpieces into clothes.

44 45 Erin

Erin Fetherston debuts her new collection 'Erin' for Autumn- Winter 2011. The 'Erin' line is an evolution on the designer's signature feminine aesthetic with an ethos for visually striking design in easy to wear pieces. This season Fetherston found inspiration in the mystique and romance of the desert, a reflection of her recent travels to Egypt and Dubai. Fetherston expresses an attitude of relaxed glamour through drapey and voluminous shapes alongside body conscious silhouettes. The collection embraces both modern and fanciful elements through dreamy colors and textures. Fetherston balances the novel with the alluring to create pieces that are sophisticated, poetic, and playfully unique.

46 47 Hakaan

Hakaan is a man of few words but it’s plain to see how he likes his women. Controlled, sleek and sexy, adjectives that have characterized his relatively short span of collections but this season, it’s softened up and become more fuild. "It’s a little more masculine than the last collection. Over time, my mood has progressed to become more loose and comfortable - more about the real women today," explains Hakaan. Cue a look at the loose tailoring of the 80s/90s in a high-contrast palette of black, red, softening to shades of cream and grey.

48 49 Jason Wu

The collection is inspired " by the beautiful photographs taken by Robert Polidori, as documented in his book "Parcours Muséologique Revisité", which documents the restoration process of the Versailles over a period of 25 years. The contrast between the raw building materials and the grandeur of the Versailles was especially interesting. - Jason Wu"

50 51 Jonathan Saunders

The general mood for AW11 was "looking for the balance between the ornate and decadent combined with the minimal and Modern. A strict but subtlety sexy silhouette was also important as found in the subversive photography of Paul Outerbridge from the 40’s. The prints were the traditional element part inspired William Morris and old fashioned wallpaper. - Jonathan Saunders"

52 53 Lela Rose

Lela Rose Fall 2011 centers around diaphanous fabrics and filmy printed overlays in pursuit of the hazy and obscured imagery seen in the works of contemporary artist Gerhard Richter.

Sculpted shoulders, strict silhouettes and scraped prints as seen in cotton canvas and obscured taffeta show visible trails of the artist’s tools.

Dip dyed silk, printed feathers and blurred chiffon recall Richter’s rendering of fragile illusions while cumulative layers of veiled tulle are used to expose prior layers.

Filament embroidered mohair, hand-loomed organza and burnished brocade in colors such as sapphire, smoke, deep green and copper bring a painterly palette to the collection.

54 55 Marchesa

Marchesa’s Fall 2011 Collection unravels Miss Havisham’s endless plight of lost love with an ethereal soiree of shredded fabrics and embellishments in shades of blush, porcelain, smoked sky and fiery red. Dramatic jet velvets parade the halls with delicately embroidered illusions and tulle flares. Snow gauze and lace cascades softly trickle down a melancholy path laden with red draped silk taffetas and fiery tulle ruffle skirts. Creams kiss with ebonies while smoky pythons meet their feathered misty match. Three dimensional leather details are dressed in hand appliquéd crystals and stone while re appliquéd lace are swathe in embroidered pearls with porcelain colored tulles floating throughout. Marchesa’s Fall 2011 Collection breathes ‘ Great Expectations’ of classic opulence, both ethereal and romantic.

56 5757 Marios Schwab

The traditional craft of broguing is explored, intriguing elements of movement, structure and drape combine. The methodology of framing draws the eye to the décolletage and contours of the female form. Swarovski pearls clustering in a range of striking, raised brogue decorations.

58 59 Matthew Williamson

How might a nomad interpret luxury, and, for that matter, couture techniques, and all-out glamour? This season, Matthew Williamson imagines a heroine who appreciates the wilderness as much as she does the city; who adores traditional blanket coats as much as she might the drama and the sequins, and who can effortlessly pair it all together with aplomb.

Williamson’s imagination was spiked after seeing the work of Francisco Infante-Arana, the Russian avant-garde artist, and in particular his series of dramatic mirror art exhibited amongst the wilderness. In the same way that Infante-Arana finds strange harmony in setting his reflective installations against natural backdrops such as woods, oceans, and tall grass, so too does Williamson in his mesmerising textural combinations of natural furs and feathers, against sequins and metal shards.

60 61 Monique Lhuillier

Dark, Sultry and Seductive. This woman knows how to get what she wants. Dark, lean and very structured silhouettes. Suits are cut with strong shoulders and frayed edge details in wools, tweeds and techno jacquard fabrics. Lace is back! The illusion of skin through layers of lace and corsets in blouses and cocktail dresses. Feathers are incorporated to add a flirty edge. Evening is sultry and dramatic with flowing chiffons in dark ombres and deep scarlet. Gala gowns are dark, seductive and epic in proportion. She is truly the knock-out of the night!

62 63 Naeem Khan

This collection is an " exploration of artistry, technique, and heritage coming together to redefine the glamour of the cosmopolitan woman. "-Naeem Khan

64 6565 66 67 Nicholas Kirkwood

This Season for Autumn/Winter we "have expanded our collection with a number of different volumes and ratios. There is a bit of a dark undertone but still a lot of playful colours. -Nicholas" Kirkwood

68 69 Oscar de la Renta

70 71 Oscar de la Renta

72 73 Oscar de la Renta

74 75 Peter Pilotto

Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos push their signature aesthetic and motifs into new, tougher territory for Autumn/Winter 2011. The prints were inspired by artists such as Rodchenko, Malevich and the Suprematists. Longer lengths and unexpected peep-holes of skin create a new definition of sensuality that pushes the Peter Pilotto language forward whilst staying resolutely true to the label's identity.

76 77 Peter Som

The collection was truly about things my "friends wanted to wear. It was about being polished and effortless with a touch of the unexpected. Loved the idea of Cindy Sherman 'Film Stills' series - everyday but heightened and with a touch of quirk. - Peter Som"

78 79 Ports 1961

Inspired by opulent European interiors and formal architecture, Fiona Cibani presents her ports 1961’s Fall/winter 2011 collection. The fusion between raw artistry and masculine tailoring morph into a lean feminine silhouette, emphasized by leather bands at the waist and bust to create visual division that elongate the body and enhance natural proportion. Luxurious European fabrics take inspiration from plasterwork from tweeds to bonded jacquards with a glisten sheen resembling wet stucco, to a new form of lace created from laser-cut leather appliqués. Strong colors feature Bordeaux, Pewter, Brown, Navy and Black with note of Gold and silver for metallic radiance.

80 81 Prabal Gurung

This season draws from the romantic styles seen throughout the Victorian era with a slightly disheveled, savage edge. The silhouettes and detailing create a juxtaposition between precious and casual couture, in a way reminiscent of Miss Havisham meets John Singer Sargent's A Parisian Beggar Girl. The pieces are beautifully crafted with quiet strength and femininity expressed through Gurung’s signature attention to form, structure and detail. For the fifth consecutive season, the collection is styled by Tiina Laakkonen with casting by John Pfeiffer.

82 83 Preen

Design duo Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi of London-label Preen turned to the San Francisco arts and crafts movement for inspiration for their AW11 collection, Minimal Craft. Venturing into artisanal crafts of wood blocking, weaving and appliqué, Preen blended these seamlessly into their very modern and minimal silhouette. Connoisseur of couture, Diana Vreeland inspired the play between the luxurious simple block-colours and expressive embellishment and print.

84 85 Proenza Schouler

We are always mostly inspired by our "personal experiences. We make clothes based on things we see and how we feel. It is always deeply personal. We never know what the overarching mood or trend for any given season is, we just mostly know how we feel and what we like. A/W 2001 started from a trip we made to the American West during early Fall. The colors of the desert and the general feeling of the place was incredibly inspiring to us. This led us to native cultures, blankets, autumnal colors and a little psychedelic something thrown into the mix. The whole thing was rung through computers and digitized, a sort of modernization of an American classic. - Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez"

86 87 Rabih Kayrouz

Maison Rabih Kayrouz adapts the heritage of Couture to the Ready-to-Wear industry. This straightforward approach which advocates impeccable craftsmanship is an evolution rather than a revolution. It is a sensuality drawn from passion. The concept of luxury is constantly changing; as is its denomination “Haute Couture”. Today’s clientele seek a new approach to “Couture”, one that is more accessible, less venerated and restricted. They seek instant empathy and comfort in order to keep up with modern life while benefiting from artisanal innovations and craftsmanship. In short: A passion for Couture moulded into the rigour of Ready-to-Wear.

88 89 Roksanda Ilincic

For AW11 I was drawn to the " fascinating feather markings and colourings of birds of prey.

The combination of natural, neutral tones against vivid, statement colours - designed to be noticed -provided the perfect reference for the collection. - Roksanda Ilincic"

90 9191 Roland Mouret

Roland Mouret explores a balance between freedom and war, escape and conformity, a looser de-mob informality contrasted with military precision, a life led in two places: private and public.

The starting point - David Bowie in "Merry Christmas Mr Lawrence" inspired a nomadic ideal influenced by the East.

"I live between the city and the country and love the contrast of dressing for both places. I saw no reason why they couldn't meet on the journey between them." says the designer.

92 93 Temperley London

Inspired by decorative Venetian fans The Unfolding Picture is full of dramatic flourishes and extravagant visual reference. Intricately carved bone fans translate into delicate stitch work while a digital print on heavy silk is more literal, shown on sweeping, full skirts and luxurious silk twill day dresses. A muted, neutral palette of champagne, cream and mink is suffused with cinnamon, gold and bursts of rich venetian red.

94 95 The Row

The Fall 2011 season has brought new evolution to THE ROW. The films “The Triplets of Bellville” and “The Fantastic Mr. Fox” and the artist Egon Schiele all served as launching points in the creation of a collection that balances between exaggerated, child-like naiveté and a deep brooding attitude.

96 97 Theysken’s Theory

For the second Theysken’s Theory collection, Olivier Theyskens pursued the initial concept of combining Theory’s core values with his point of view as a contemporary designer, capturing different moods, combining androgynous tailoring with feminine touches, identifying a relaxed elegance. For Fall / Winter 2011-2012, the collection offers an urban look infusing revisited Japanese references, abstract prints and contrasted silhouettes. The collection refers to key Japanese style elements with a new approach to the construction of the traditional Kimono for coats and jackets, the sophistication of high waist tie-belts, the composition of panels and glossy shiny fabrics reminiscent of the silks used in Geisha attires. Another key element of the collection is the abstracts prints. By superimposing blueprints of Cathedral plans and Mies Van der Rohe architecture projects, the prints suggest an abstract plaid effect, which are enhanced by layering them with “vaporized” leopard. The Fall / Winter 2011-2012 collection corroborates the Theysken’s Theory signature: the cool urban allure with a complete wardrobe for all the moments of the day (and night) and a sharp, yet romantic attitude.

98 99 Thierry Mugler

We were looking at the idea of science as "religion. A notion of space and time and how the human body is affected in the evolutionary process and how that, in turn, is played out through fashion and the evolution of fashion itself. There was an idea about looking at the inside of the body as well as the outside, and that had started with Rico [the heavily anatomically tattooed model Rick Genest] in the menswear. We wanted an idea of glamour, but one walking into the future. - Nicola Formichetti" 100 101 Vera Wang

The grace, romance and effortless style of iconic American women who fascinated the English aristocracy during the 1930’s: Viscountess Thelma Furness, Lady Emerald Cunard, The Duchess of Windsor Wallis Simpson … all embodied a classic American spirit informed by British style at its most glamorous.

102 103 Victoria Beckham

Autumn/Winter 2011 represents "what I feel is an important evolution of the Victoria Beckham collection. While I have retained my signature structures the introduction of the precise volume pieces and new lengths are of huge relevance for me this season. - Victoria Beckham"

104 105 Zero + Maria Cornejo

I am always energized by "the inspiring individuals around me and I realized that the greatest luxury is to have the freedom to express one’s own point of view. - Maria Cornejo."

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