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Fashion's New Frontiers; What's Next

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Fashion's New Frontiers; What's Next ! ! !"#$%&'(#)*+,)!-&'.%+-#/)0$".(#)*+1.2)) FBS C19 Issue 3: 22.05.20 ! ! ! ROMA, LAZIO, ITALY Whilst the UN delegates discuss the issues of the climate of the planet in Paris, many cities of the world organised events and demonstrations for Earth's climate and nature. In Rome almost a million people took to the streets of the capital to take part in the Global climate march. [Photo by Davide Bosco/Pacific Press | LightRocket via Getty Images]! “I don’t really follow market research; I trust my instincts” Anna Wintour, Editor in Chief Vogue ! "! Context: Fashion has not been dormant or slumbering, and certainly not fast asleep, during lockdown. Many designers and creatives have been active in ideas, fund raising, communication and generally keeping busy. However, the loosening of the lockdown rules in several countries has resulted in many more people declaring potentially exciting new plans for the future, ways to engage with consumers and other innovative future facing initiatives. The main fashion organisations of London, Paris, and Italy; Rome Florence Milan, have been busy with many reassurances and actions during the past couple of months. Some of these plans are now coming to fruition, The fashion industry landscape is changing, fashion is thinking, and we are reporting on a cross section of new ideas, concepts and potential innovation routes now starting to appear. Statements being made by many in the creative industries are strong, positive and future forward, but realistic attitudes are still very much in evidence. Facts are facts and understanding the key realities of our situation is both important and multifaceted. The skill of balancing what is actual news and underpinned by evidence, and what is simply conjecture or fake news is not just important, it’s crucial. Experience may not be the key to the future, since the present is so unprecedented. What is certain is, that we are not returning to exactly where we were this time last year, and we are not out of the woods by any means. Is Animal Crossing set to become the Fashion Industry’s COVID19 lifeline? A Balenciaga look reimagined by Maya Murakami (@suqmayazzz) on Animal Crossing https://www.instagram.com/animalcrossingfashionarchive/?hl=en Instagram @animalcrossingfashionarchive Animal Crossing: New Horizons, Nintendo’s latest (and subjectively the greatest) has taken the quarantined fashion world by storm. 2 But that was to be expected. With new places to roam, new characters to befriend, new clothes to shop, and new activities to try out. Animal Crossing offers a slice of life as we knew it. A bit like The Sims on anti-depressants, it’s fast become both an escape and a refuge for millions of fashionistas. Only, there’s more going on underneath the surface than you might expect. Particularly amongst fashion brands and fashion lovers without traditional outlets. On Monday 18th May, lifestyle and esports brand ‘100 Thieves’ unveiled digital copies of every piece of clothing it’s released since 2018 through the Animal Crossing Game. Re_Wiring Fashion: Possibly amongst one of the biggest fashion stories of the last few weeks… Designers Lobby to ‘Fix’ the Fashion System _ Will It Work? In recent weeks, three different groups of designers and retailers have proposed shifts to the fashion industry’s delivery and discounting calendars in an attempt to create a healthier and more profitable industry. So, can they pull it off? The British Fashion Council and the Council for Fashion Designers of America released a joint statement on Thursday 14th May, backing the recently assembled groups of industry players calling for systemic changes to how the business of fashion operates. Over the last month, three separate but sometimes overlapping groups of independent designers and executives — one led by Saks Fifth Avenue, one by Dries Van Noten, and one brought together by The Business of Fashion _ put forth suggestions to make the fashion system more streamlined and profitable. A key focus was resetting the buying, delivery and discounting calendar This initiative centres on the buying and merchandising cycle specifically stock delivery times and controlling the discounting calendar. Whilst this initiative is clearly in the early stages of development, it doesn’t yet address wider issues of sustainability or social responsibility or the impact of the fashion industry on our planet, it is a major step forward in rationalising key 3 elements of the fashion cycle and the concept of delivering product to match the seasons and discounting product only when appropriate. It has aroused a great deal of enthusiasm from those involved. At the last count, this exciting initiative had gained support from approximately 800 fashion industry signatories. Open Letter to the Fashion Industry Recently a group of us from across the global fashion industry, from CEOs to buyers and creative directors, came together in a series of conversations with a shared vision; to discuss ways in which our business needs to transform. It was agreed that the current environment although challenging, presents an opportunity for a fundamental and welcome change that will simplify our businesses, making them more environmentally and socially sustainable and ultimately align them more closely with customers’ needs. o The aim is to achieve this by adjusting the seasonality and flow of both womenswear and menswear goods, starting with the Autumn/Winter 2020 season: o Put the Autumn/Winter season back in winter (August/January) and Spring/Summer season back in summer (February/July) o Create a more balanced flow of deliveries through the season to provide newness but also time for products to create desire. o Discount at the end of the season in order to allow for more full-price selling – January for Autumn/Winter and July for Spring/Summer. We will also work to increase sustainability throughout the supply chain and sales calendar through: • Less unnecessary product • Less waste in fabrics and inventory • Less travel • Make use of digital showrooms in addition to personal creative interactions • Review and adapt fashion shows Working together, we hope these steps will allow our industry to become more responsible for our impact on our customers, on the planet and on the fashion community, and bring back the magic and creativity that has made fashion such an important part of our world. Open Letter to the Fashion Industry. Read more below: #rewiringfashion: This is a proposal for the global fashion industry, the product of ongoing conversations between a growing group of independent designers, CEOs and retail executives from around the world who have come together in this challenging time to rethink how the fashion industry could _ and should _ work. https://www.rewiringfashion.org/ Rewiring Fashion Wants to Change the Fashion System: Spurred by the coronavirus pandemic, 64 fashion heavyweights have signed a proposal to change the industry. https://www.crfashionbook.com/fashion/a32503171/rewiring-fashion-proposal-industry- change/ 4 Second Group of Industry Leaders Call For 'Rewiring' of the Fashion Industry: Facilitated by The Business of Fashion, this call follows on the heels of Tuesday's open letter and proposes changes to runway shows, the fashion calendar and discounting. https://fashionista.com/2020/05/rewiring-fashion-calendar-shows-discounting This Project Aims to Redefine The Fashion of Tomorrow: In an open letter, hundreds of fashion protagonists are rallying together in a major project to re-define tomorrow's fashion. https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/article/rewiring-fashion-new-project-revolutionize-future-open- letter-sustainability Watch this space for further developments… Italy: One of the strongest brands around, pre COVID19, was Bottega Veneta, and its designer Daniel Lee are hosting ‘Bottega Residency’ on their Instagram account with some fascinating contributions. Coronavirus and self-isolation is causing stress and anxiety. For those who fear isolation and loneliness, these uncertain times can be particularly tough. “What can I do?” is a question many are asking themselves. Bottega Veneta has got the answer: Distraction. 5 The Italian brand just launched Bottega Residency; a new multi-platform concept defined as ‘A theatre of joyous distraction’. Bringing together music, film and food and collaborating with artists, rising chefs and film industry partners, the brand promises to get you a weekly dose of everything you need to remain inspired, entertained and positive. Accessible across Instagram, YouTube, Weibo, Line, Spotify, Apple Music, as well as being hosted on a mini-site, Bottega Residency will come alive over the course of each weekend and continue to live on within the brand’s overarching strategy. Bottega Veneta’s Instagram is about to be better than Netflix! This is a perfect distraction for the coming bank holiday weekend. @bottegaveneta To further satisfy your style cravings for the brand Daniel Lee has launched a second account: @newbottega Paris: The Luxury Game: On Monday the 11th May my Instagram account was flooded with returning fashionistas excited to be slowly returning to the business of fashion. The luxury, bespoke and made to order brands and retailers are perfectly positioned make a rapid economic bounce back post COVID19. Brands that have carved out a niche role for themselves as a slower, high-quality alternative quality service providing a captivating alternative to mass retailers at a time when customers want more personalisation including ‘one to one’ appointments and the opportunity for brands to talk directly to their clients. Not so long ago, the luxury retail experience was inherently tactile. The wow factor of walking through a multimillion-dollar vacation home or sitting behind the wheel of a custom luxury vehicle was only possible in the physical realm. But ever-advancing technology has changed the luxury game. It’s not a question of whether or not digital works in luxury. You can pick the finishing’s for your Audi in digital showrooms, try on designer clothes in virtual fitting rooms, or take-home tours on your phone.
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