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Els Ports Natural Park

Els Ports Natural Park

en Els Ports Natural Park

THE PHYSICAL ENVIRONMENT: For example, there is a noticeable difference between LANDSCAPE AND CLIMATE the two faces of the massif. The southeastern face, influenced by the Mediterranean climate, is much more temperate than the interior face, which has much more The landscape continental climatic conditions. As the altitude increases, Els Ports make up a very complex relief, which the climate becomes sub-Mediterranean, which results straddles the Catalan Mediterranean system and the in increased precipitation and a drop in temperature. In Iberian system. It is formed of Mesozoic limestone climate, as in many other things, Els Ports is an area of materials, resulting in a sheer outline, broken by many sharp contrasts. The weather can change from absolute faults, and with significant overthrusts of the fault calm to a hurricane-like wind from the northwest in the plates. A system of faults separates Els Ports from the blink of an eye. Gusts of wind of over 150 km/h are not coastal plains. The northern front of conglomerates, uncommon. Els Ports, the mountains that lie between , turned towards the depression, stands out, Valencia and , are part of a limestone massif, characterised by the Roques de Benet, Periganyol and characterised by its abrupt cliff faces, which has been Sant Salvador. inhabited by humans since prehistoric times. Els Ports The central structure is of Jurassic-type folds, with the have always been a source of natural resources for axis in a northeast to southwestern direction. In the human subsistence and interests. Today, this fact can western part, the main rivers dig deep whirlpools, as is be seen in the vague traces they have left behind, like the case of the Matarranya river at Les Gúbies del the farms, the chalk ovens, the ice wells, the charcoal Parrissal – outside the national park – Les Gúbies del stores, the dry stone walls, and the paved paths. Regatxol at the head of the Ulldemó river and the Despite its intense population, this territory, which has valleys themselves at Mas de la Franqueta along the been so much explored and exploited in history, now length of Els Estrets. appears to us as a natural forest space, full of wildlife. The massif has a number of mountains remarkable for Cover: Interior face of the Natural Park. Arnes and The importance of its natural value and the need for their height and unique appearance, with a large area Photo: LMDG conservation motivated the Government of Catalonia of Els Ports being above 1,000 m. The highest peak is to create Els Ports Natural Park and Les Fagedes dels Mont Caro, at 1,447 m. Opposite page: Faixes Tancades. Roquetes Ports Partial Nature Reserve, two special protection Photo: Rafael Balada regimes that should guarantee the preservation of the The climate natural value of the area and ensure the sustainable The climate of Els Ports is not the same throughout the This page: Toll del Vidre. Arnes Photo: Josep Vidal use of its many resources. area, as the altitude and aspect affect it significantly. 1 2 3 4 5

FAUNA (Oenanthe leucura) and the citril finch (Serinus FLORA AND VEGETATION characteristic of the Mediterranean highlands, with citrinella). communities native to the southern Catalan mountains Reptiles are also well represented in Els Ports; in fact, such as hedgehog broom, mountain kidney-vetch The wide variety of habitats that Els Ports offers leads to over 50% of the species living in Catalonia can be The characteristic position of the Els Ports massif, (Erinaceo-Anthyllidetum montanae), earthnuts and a wealth of animal life. The animal populations of Els found in this natural space.The Mediterranean terrapin between the Iberian and Catalan mountains, means fescue (Conopodio-Festucetum gautieri). Ports are of great interest not just for the abundance (Mauremys leprosa), the Mediterranean gecko that the flora and fauna to be found there is a relic Rock-growing vegetation is very typical of the massif, and variety of species, but also because there are (Hemidactylus turcicus), the Spanish psammodromus of other times and places, with Eurosiberian and and is of significant interest. There is the Jasonio- animals that are endemic, or very rare in Catalonia. (Psammodromus hispanicus), Bedriagai's skink Boreoalpine species living alongside typically Linarietum cadevallii on the sunny mountainsides, the Among the animal population, the most spectacular is (Chalcides bedriagai), the horseshoe whip snake Mediterranean species, resulting in a geo-botanical Tarragonan Hieracio-Salicetum in the shade and the the population of Spanish ibex (Capra pyrenaica subsp. (Coluber hippocrepis) and the Lataste's viper (Vipera paradise in which over 1,000 species can be found. Antirrhinetum pertegasii in the shadowy nooks. hispanica), a species that is endemic to the Iberian latasti) are good examples of the reptile population. In the base area and on the eastern face of the range, Among this rock-growing vegetation there are some Peninsula, and which has a controlled population for The same can be said for amphibians, as, again, the predominant vegetation is shrubland of kermes noteworthy endemic species such as the dwarf willow hunting, managed by the Reserva Nacional de Caça more than 50% of the species found in Catalonia oak and European fan palms (Querco-Lentiscetum). (Salix tarraconensis), Antirrhinum sempervirens subsp. (National Hunting Reserve). Among the other most are recorded in the park. Some extremely On the western face, which is fresher and more pertegasii, Brassica repanda dertosensis, Armeria noteworthy mammals are the otter (Lutra lutra), the interesting species can be seen, such as the Spanish continental in character, the base stage is occupied by fontqueri, Saxifraga longifolia, Erodium celtibericum, wildcat (Felis sylvestris), and the bat group, which with ribbed newt (Pleurodeles waltl), the marbled newt oak groves (Quercetum rotundifoliae). Knautia rupicola, etc. over 20 species is one of the richest bat communities on (Triturus marmoratus), and the parsley frog (Pelodytes In the higher zones, the potential vegetation is evergreen Other plant species stand out for their rarity, such as the Iberian Peninsula. punctatus). Their presence in Els Ports is of particular oak grove (Quercetum mediterraneo-montanum). Prunus prostrata, Brimeura fontqueri, Dryopteris 1 Griffon Vultures (Gyps fulvus) Many different birds also find the ideal living and nesting importance, as it indicates the existence of enough The sub-Mediterranean stage is basically covered by submontana etc., or for phyto-geographical aspects: Photo: Vicent Pellicer conditions in Els Ports. Among them are large sedentary damp areas and water sources for them to remain, a mountain pine groves (Violo-Quercetum faginae Polygala calcarea, Gymnocarpium robertianum, birds of prey, such as the griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus), remarkable fact amidst a landscape and climate that pinetosum salzmanni) and by Scots pine with Primula acaulis, Nepeta tuberosa, Ramonda myconi, 2 Spanish Ibex (Capra pyrenaica subsp. hispanica); female and the golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), the Bonelli's are essentially Mediterranean. bearberry (Arctostaphylo-Pinetum catalaunicae); and Atropa baetica etc. young eagle (Hieraaetus fasciatus), the goshawk (Accipiter In the river, there are a number of interesting in the most unusual spots we can find box scrub The humid environments have some relictual species Photo: Vicent Pellicer gentilis), the peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus), the native species, such as the Southwest European (Violo-Quercetum faginae buxetosum) and others. In such as the butterwort (Pinguicola dertosensis), endemic 3 Mediterranean creek plant life eagle owl (Bubo bubo), etc. and those that nest there nase (Chondrostoma toxostoma), the red roach the more humid areas of the upper stages, to the to the massifs and found on limestone stalactites. Photo: Ana Ávila Aguilà for the summer, such as the short-toed eagle (Circaetus (Rutilus arcasii) and the white-clawed crayfish south of the massif, there are beech groves (Primulo- Of particular interest are the beech tree groves of gallicus), the booted eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus), the (Austrapotamobius pallipes); and among the Fagetum) and yew groves (Saniculo-Taxetum), which these mountains, the most southerly in the Catalan 4 Faig Pare, a monumental tree Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus), etc. invertebrates, there are endemic species from the are a remnant of times gone by, when the weather territories. These beech tree groves are some of the Photo: Boluña fotografs There are many other interesting bird species to be mollusc, arachnid and coleopteran groups that appear was cooler and more humid. most southerly in Europe and have been especially found in Els Ports, including the dipper (Cinclus on the list of endangered species in the Plan for Areas The ridge tops, subjected to strong winds for a protected by the Les Fagedes dels Ports Partial Nature 5 Pine trees on the cliffs Photo: Jarkov Reverté cinclus), the nuthatch (Sitta europaea), the wheatear of Natural Interest in Catalonia. good part of the year, house a number of species Reserve. el Raval de Crist Bitem TRANSPORT AND ACCESS 5 km

Benifallet lÕEbre Pinell de Brai

Freginals If you are coming by train (RENFE) Santa Magdalena SERRAT DEL MONTSIË SERRAT

Xerta Information: (00 34) 934 900 202 Roquetes Recommended station: Tortosa. Observatori de l'Ebre Santa Bˆrbara

els Reguers If you are coming by bus (Bus company to these locations: HIFE) Mare de DŽu Mare de la Fontcalda

0 Information: (00 34) 977 440 300 la Miliana Recommended station: Tortosa. Buses leave from here 1

Ref. de la Font Nova Monday to Friday to all the villages in the Natural Park. barranc de Sant Antoni PaŸls If you are coming by car LA REFOIA

Alfara de Carles The main roads into the regions are:

MONTASPRE Motorway AP-7. Barcelona-Valencia Bot - Exit 40: l’Aldea-Tortosa

Sant Roc - Exit 41: -Sant Carles de la Ràpita la Vall Figuera la Vall

Mas de Barberans National road: CN-340. Barcelona-Valencia PLË DE LA GALERA Lloret

LA CARAMELLA Eix de l'Ebre C12. Lleida-Amposta MONTSAGRE el Toscar MARACO RASES DEL Ref. de Caro barranc de la Galera

riu Natural Park Major road els Valentins Canaleta Sant Salvador d'Horta el Mascar Nature Reserve Minor road la Vall CARO Information Centre Track or Path ROQUES Ref. de les Clotes LES FOIES DE BENET

Sant Rafael del Riu Car Park

Mas de la Franqueta Picnic Area

riu dels Viewpoint Estrets

Horta de Sant Joan Shelter Castell de Mudfer Arenys de Lled— Arenys de Lled—) (Arens Ref. de Terranyes Valldebous Lled— d'Algars (Lled—) barranc de Ref. del Mas Frare MOLA DE CATê TERRANYES Ref. del Mol’ de lÕOli CARLARES Arnes riu Algars la SŽnia la Fou MILLERS Ulldem— riu LES VALLCANERES Rossell (Rosell) Cretes (Cretas) Poblat ibric de Sant Antoni Calaceit Convent de Benifassˆ Calaceit (Calaceite) Beseit () Ref. de la Font Ferrera el Matarranya REFALGARê TINEN‚A DE BENIFASSË el Bellestar 1 2

THE VILLAGES Roquetes Prat de Comte El Racó de la Cova d'en Marc (Marc's Cave) at La Vall, all types of environment and take the walker through Roquetes houses the Administration Offices and Known and recognised for its cuisine, this village offers A small village (360 inhabitants) set right at the edge which is of great interest for the geological formations all the different landscapes hidden in Els Ports: steep an Information Point of the Natural Park. It is just some of the best meat in the region. It is well linked to of the Natural Park. It is well linked with Horta de Sant found there and the views of the gully, or the trail of gullies and cliffs, beech groves and Scots pine An important element of the mountain range is its outside Tortosa and is well linked by the AP7 Tortosa and La Sénia. A few kilometres from the village Joan and is also near the Sanctuary of La Fontcalda, Els Hortets and Cova la Roja at La Fou. woods.... However, routes must be planned according villages, which are located around the edge and shared motorway and the Eix de l'Ebre road. From Roquetes, is the Leisure Area of La Vall, from which the visitor can where the Via Verde (Green Route) passes, a trail that The area of La font Nova, in the municipality of Alfara to the experience and physical fitness of each visitor. between the two sides, each one offering a different walkers can make their way up to the peak of Mont make trips of varying lengths and levels of difficulty: follows a disused train line, and is today used as a de Carles, is another option, in this case for exploring We recommend that you are well-equipped for any way into the park. Getting to know the different faces Caro, which at a height of 1,447 m is the highest Racó d'en Marc, Mas del Barró, and many more. cycle path. There are many different walks that can be the southern face of the ridge, the views to the mouth hike that you do, and that you always use a detailed of this wild territory, while staying among the hospitality point in Els Ports. taken from here, some of them as spectacular as the of the Ebro river and enjoying the climb up to La walking map. There is a wide and varied selection of of its people, is the best option for the visitor. climb up to El Tossal d'Engrilló, with one of the best Moleta. From Paüls we can enter Els Ports through the accommodation available along the way: shelters such Tortosa views of the Ebro regions. recreation area of Sant Roc, and in the heart of the as the one at Font Ferrera (FEEC - The Catalan This commercial and services centre is the capital of Park on the path that leads to El Mascar a Fredes, is Federation of Rambling Clubs, with warden), the one the region of El Baix Ebre. It extends to both sides of Arnes the area at Cova Avellanes. Another point from which at Mas del Frare (key must be requested), at Caro (UEC the river and has a historic old town that is both A small, charming village. It is highly recommended to begin a walk is the recreation area at the gully of - Union of Ramblers of Catalonia, with warden), the extremely important and beautiful, with its gothic that you take a walk around the streets of the old THE PARK ON FOOT Lloret, from which we can reach El Racó del Moro and one at Les Clotes (open), or villages to meet all the A peaceful and picturesque village (380 inhabitants), cathedral. town and visit the façade of the Town Hall, one of the La cova Pintada (The Painted Cave). walker's needs, with a wide range of services available. located right in the centre of the Natural Park, Tortosa is well served for transport by the AP7 most outstanding Renaissance buildings in the area. Family trails For more information, you can ask at the Information surrounded by mountains. The old castle of Carles, the motorway, the N-340 national road and the Eix de From Arnes, it is easy to reach Horta de Sant Joan, Els Ports Natural Park has recreation areas throughout Long-hike trails Centres of Els Ports Natural Park, where they will also chapel of Sant Julià, Els Ullals or the Font Nova can be l'Ebre road.The most direct access to Els Ports is in the Beseit, Vallderoures, and even as far as Morella. You the three regions.These areas, in addition to being rest There are two long-hike (GR) trails that cross Els Ports inform you of the activities organised in these areas visited. Excursions can leave from the village itself, or direction of Roquetes. can take trips to Els Estrets d'Arnes –one of the and leisure areas, are also the departure point for Natural Park. One of these is the GR-7, which crosses such as talks, outings to get to know Els Ports, courses, from the area of Toscar. The village is well known for prettiest and most spectacular spots in the National family trails and rambles for those who want to enjoy the massif lengthwise, passing Font Ferrera, Casetes workshops etc. its ox farms, many of which offer restaurant facilities Park– to El Toll de Vidre, and to Les . MONTSIÀ nature. The areas are equipped with tables and Velles, El Mascar, Les Clotes, L'Espina, Sant Roc and and amateur bullfight using youn animals. Horta de Sant Joan running water, and welcome all those people and the village of Paüls. A variation on this trail is the GR- Paüls La Sénia A village with an array of history on show.The village's activities that are respectful of the environment. This is 171: this breaks away from GR-7 at the summit of El 1 Mas de Barberans Paüls, on the edge of the Natural Park, still This is the southernmost village in the Natural Park, old town can be visited, as can the Town Hall square, the case of the recreation area at La Franqueta at Mascar, and passes Toscar and L'Alfara de Carles to Photo: Jarkov Reverté maintains its mountain village charm. It is near and it is well known for the variety and quality of its the old prison, the Picasso Centre, the Els Ports Horta de Sant Joan, from where the visitor can begin return to the original path at Paüls and then continue and is well linked to Tortosa by the Eix de furniture makers, with exhibition and sales points Ecomuseum, and the oldest tree in Catalonia, an olive trails such as the route of La Cova d'en Picasso to Prat de Comte. 2 Prat de Compte l'Ebre road. Visitors can begin trails on foot from the open at the weekends. It is well linked to La Tinença tree known as Lo Parot. Horta de Sant Joan is well (Picasso's Cave), the Mas de Corretja trail or the trail The other long-hike trail is the GR-8, which takes us Photo: Jarkov Reverté village itself, or by walking to the Recreation Area at de Benifassà, Morella and Vinaròs. The majority of the linked with Gandesa and Vallderoures. In the interior to Els Estrets d'Arnes. Other recreation areas situated from the Shelter of Font Ferrera to Beseit (Teruel), the chapel of Sant Roc. There is a wide array of Partial Nature Reserve of the Beech Groves of Els Ports of Els Ports, the Recreation Area of La Franqueta is a further to the south in the park are those at La Fou through the areas of Refalgarí and Millers. 3 Paüls choices for the walker. lies within this municipality. departure point for various marked walking trails. and La Vall, which offer possibilities such as the trail to These long-distance paths offer sections passing through Photo: Jarkov Reverté 2 3

ACCOMMODATION AND SHELTERS • Els Ports contains some very fragile ecosystems. Be • The massif of Els Ports has very complex relief that Information centres and places of interest FREE SHELTERS Area (Department of the Environment and Housing Planning Service. Last WITH WARDENS very careful not to start fires; carelessness can makes access and movement difficult. It is therefore updated: 2004) destroy something that nature has taken centuries to recommended that you take great care, and that you 35.050 ha Information Centre of Els Ports Natural Park Caro Shelter - U.E.C. (Alfara de Carles) These are simple rain shelters, open to everyone, and create. do not always trust only in your map. (includes 867 ha of Nature Reserve) Av. Val de Zafán, s/n (Apartat de Correus 70) 43520 Roquetes Tel: 977 267 128 / 617 808 816 it is therefore possible that they might be full. They are • We recommend that to get to know the park, you • To sum up: before entering the Natural Park, ask for Telephone: 977 504 012 reached by following the track. stick to the marked paths, and we would like to information at the Information Centres, where they Municipalities Font Ferrera Shelter - FEEC (La Sénia) remind you that motor vehicles are not permitted off will tell you how you can enjoy the park without Alfara de Carles Fax: 977 58 08 73 Les Clotes Shelter (Horta de Sant Joan) 40 places the marked roads and tracks. damaging it. Arnes Telephone Information Centre: 977 500 845 Horta de Sant Joan Tel: 977 588 668 / 647 847 105 Mas del Torrero-Terranyes Shelter (Arnes) • Do not frighten the wild animals or do anything that Opening hours: La Sénia Winter hours (from 16th September to 31st May) might disturb them; simply observe them. Mas de Barberans Accommodation at the Restaurant del Port Shelter of La Font Nova _CCEX (Alfara de Monday to Friday 10am-1pm / 4pm-6pm. • Do not pick the plants. Remember that the majority Paüls (Tortosa) 30 places Carles) Saturday 9am-1pm / 4pm-6pm. Prat de Comte are protected, and that it is our duty and Sunday: 9am-1pm. Tel: 977 267 143 / 607 380 965 Roquetes Shelter of La Font Ferrera (La Sénia) responsibility to conserve them. Summer hours (from 1st June to 15th September) Tortosa The different villages offer a wide variety of 20 free places when the warden is absent. • If it is the season for picking mushrooms, follow the Monday to Friday 10am-1pm / 5pm-7pm. Saturday: 9am-1pm / rules and recommendations given in the Information 5pm-7pm accommodation (rural houses, hotels, guest houses, Sunday: 9am-1pm. Centres. Regions hostels) and restaurants. RULES AND RECOMMENDATIONS • Respect private property. Remember that the El Baix Ebre El Montsià Ecomuseu dels Ports (Els Ports Ecomuseum) mountains and the woodland have their owners who C/ de Picasso, 18 LOCKED SHELTERS La Terra Alta • Els Ports is one of the most important natural spaces take care of the maintenance and improvement of 43596 Horta de Sant Joan in Catalonia, and has been declared a Natural Park the forests. Date of Creation Telephone: 977 435 686 to preserve its geological, biological and landscape • Do not enter enclosed areas or use tracks marked as These are shelters which are kept closed, and the key Decree 160/2001, of 12th June, declaring the Els Ports Natural E-mail: [email protected] importance, and also the cultural values of those private property. 1 Viewpoint of Salt de Ferrassó should be requested in advance from the manager. Photo: Josep-Maria Forcadell-Roig Park and the Les Fagedes dels Ports Partial Nature Reserve. http://www.elsports.org who live and work there. You should therefore • In Els Ports there are various herds of bull oxen. Opening hours: Mas del Frare Shelter (La Sénia) respect and learn to appreciate the surroundings. When planning a visit or excursion, ask in the Park 2 La Vall recreation area International Protection Tuesday to Saturday: 11am-1:30pm / 5pm-8pm. Tel: 630 518 254 • Be aware that the instructions of the park wardens Information Centres, in order to avoid surprises. Photo: Josep-Maria Forcadell-Roig Sundays and bank holidays:11am-1:30pm. Mondays: Closed Natura 2000. Mediterranean Region. (forest guards), accredited personnel of the Natural Remember, bulls can be very dangerous. Shelter of La Font Nova - CCEX (Centre Park, and the owners and inhabitants of the park, • Remember that the activities that can be carried out 3 Park Information Centre Web Excursionista de Xerta) (Alfara de Carles) must be followed at all times. in the Natural Park are regulated. Canyoning, rock Photo: Jarkov Reverté http://www.parcsdecatalunya.net Tel: 977 473 664 / 977 473 369 • Make use of the infrastructure and equipment in the climbing, group activities etc. are governed by park, and take your rubbish to the nearest bins. specific regulations. Information can be obtained at El Retaule beech grove. La Sénia (back cover) E-mail Photo: Boluña Fotògrafs Separate your rubbish in the correct way. the Natural Park Information Centres. [email protected] © GOVERNMENT OF CATALONIA DEPARTMENT OF THE ENVIRONMENT AND HOUSING, DIRECTORATE GENERAL FOR NATURE PARKS SERVICE Dr. Roux, 80 08017 Barcelona Tel. 935 674 200 Legal Deposit: B-50.384-05 Design and Layout: LMDG / Lluís Mestres / Lucia Joglar. Acknowledgements for the photos on pages 4, 5 and 9: Josep Vidal, Xavier Parellada, Rafael Balada, Carles Flaqué, Fèlix Amat, Joan Manel Roig, Jordi Beltrán, Vicent Pellicer. Printing: IMGESA www.parcsdecatalunya.net

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