en Els Ports Natural Park THE PHYSICAL ENVIRONMENT: For example, there is a noticeable difference between LANDSCAPE AND CLIMATE the two faces of the massif. The southeastern face, influenced by the Mediterranean climate, is much more temperate than the interior face, which has much more The landscape continental climatic conditions. As the altitude increases, Els Ports make up a very complex relief, which the climate becomes sub-Mediterranean, which results straddles the Catalan Mediterranean system and the in increased precipitation and a drop in temperature. In Iberian system. It is formed of Mesozoic limestone climate, as in many other things, Els Ports is an area of materials, resulting in a sheer outline, broken by many sharp contrasts. The weather can change from absolute faults, and with significant overthrusts of the fault calm to a hurricane-like wind from the northwest in the plates. A system of faults separates Els Ports from the blink of an eye. Gusts of wind of over 150 km/h are not coastal plains. The northern front of conglomerates, uncommon. Els Ports, the mountains that lie between Catalonia, turned towards the Ebro depression, stands out, Valencia and Aragon, are part of a limestone massif, characterised by the Roques de Benet, Periganyol and characterised by its abrupt cliff faces, which has been Sant Salvador. inhabited by humans since prehistoric times. Els Ports The central structure is of Jurassic-type folds, with the have always been a source of natural resources for axis in a northeast to southwestern direction. In the human subsistence and interests. Today, this fact can western part, the main rivers dig deep whirlpools, as is be seen in the vague traces they have left behind, like the case of the Matarranya river at Les Gúbies del the farms, the chalk ovens, the ice wells, the charcoal Parrissal – outside the national park – Les Gúbies del stores, the dry stone walls, and the paved paths. Regatxol at the head of the Ulldemó river and the Despite its intense population, this territory, which has valleys themselves at Mas de la Franqueta along the been so much explored and exploited in history, now length of Els Estrets. appears to us as a natural forest space, full of wildlife. The massif has a number of mountains remarkable for Cover: Interior face of the Natural Park. Arnes and Horta de Sant Joan The importance of its natural value and the need for their height and unique appearance, with a large area Photo: LMDG conservation motivated the Government of Catalonia of Els Ports being above 1,000 m. The highest peak is to create Els Ports Natural Park and Les Fagedes dels Mont Caro, at 1,447 m. Opposite page: Faixes Tancades. Roquetes Ports Partial Nature Reserve, two special protection Photo: Rafael Balada regimes that should guarantee the preservation of the The climate natural value of the area and ensure the sustainable The climate of Els Ports is not the same throughout the This page: Toll del Vidre. Arnes Photo: Josep Vidal use of its many resources. area, as the altitude and aspect affect it significantly. 1 2 3 4 5 FAUNA (Oenanthe leucura) and the citril finch (Serinus FLORA AND VEGETATION characteristic of the Mediterranean highlands, with citrinella). communities native to the southern Catalan mountains Reptiles are also well represented in Els Ports; in fact, such as hedgehog broom, mountain kidney-vetch The wide variety of habitats that Els Ports offers leads to over 50% of the species living in Catalonia can be The characteristic position of the Els Ports massif, (Erinaceo-Anthyllidetum montanae), earthnuts and a wealth of animal life. The animal populations of Els found in this natural space.The Mediterranean terrapin between the Iberian and Catalan mountains, means fescue (Conopodio-Festucetum gautieri). Ports are of great interest not just for the abundance (Mauremys leprosa), the Mediterranean gecko that the flora and fauna to be found there is a relic Rock-growing vegetation is very typical of the massif, and variety of species, but also because there are (Hemidactylus turcicus), the Spanish psammodromus of other times and places, with Eurosiberian and and is of significant interest. There is the Jasonio- animals that are endemic, or very rare in Catalonia. (Psammodromus hispanicus), Bedriagai's skink Boreoalpine species living alongside typically Linarietum cadevallii on the sunny mountainsides, the Among the animal population, the most spectacular is (Chalcides bedriagai), the horseshoe whip snake Mediterranean species, resulting in a geo-botanical Tarragonan Hieracio-Salicetum in the shade and the the population of Spanish ibex (Capra pyrenaica subsp. (Coluber hippocrepis) and the Lataste's viper (Vipera paradise in which over 1,000 species can be found. Antirrhinetum pertegasii in the shadowy nooks. hispanica), a species that is endemic to the Iberian latasti) are good examples of the reptile population. In the base area and on the eastern face of the range, Among this rock-growing vegetation there are some Peninsula, and which has a controlled population for The same can be said for amphibians, as, again, the predominant vegetation is shrubland of kermes noteworthy endemic species such as the dwarf willow hunting, managed by the Reserva Nacional de Caça more than 50% of the species found in Catalonia oak and European fan palms (Querco-Lentiscetum). (Salix tarraconensis), Antirrhinum sempervirens subsp. (National Hunting Reserve). Among the other most are recorded in the park. Some extremely On the western face, which is fresher and more pertegasii, Brassica repanda dertosensis, Armeria noteworthy mammals are the otter (Lutra lutra), the interesting species can be seen, such as the Spanish continental in character, the base stage is occupied by fontqueri, Saxifraga longifolia, Erodium celtibericum, wildcat (Felis sylvestris), and the bat group, which with ribbed newt (Pleurodeles waltl), the marbled newt oak groves (Quercetum rotundifoliae). Knautia rupicola, etc. over 20 species is one of the richest bat communities on (Triturus marmoratus), and the parsley frog (Pelodytes In the higher zones, the potential vegetation is evergreen Other plant species stand out for their rarity, such as the Iberian Peninsula. punctatus). Their presence in Els Ports is of particular oak grove (Quercetum mediterraneo-montanum). Prunus prostrata, Brimeura fontqueri, Dryopteris 1 Griffon Vultures (Gyps fulvus) Many different birds also find the ideal living and nesting importance, as it indicates the existence of enough The sub-Mediterranean stage is basically covered by submontana etc., or for phyto-geographical aspects: Photo: Vicent Pellicer conditions in Els Ports. Among them are large sedentary damp areas and water sources for them to remain, a mountain pine groves (Violo-Quercetum faginae Polygala calcarea, Gymnocarpium robertianum, birds of prey, such as the griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus), remarkable fact amidst a landscape and climate that pinetosum salzmanni) and by Scots pine with Primula acaulis, Nepeta tuberosa, Ramonda myconi, 2 Spanish Ibex (Capra pyrenaica subsp. hispanica); female and the golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), the Bonelli's are essentially Mediterranean. bearberry (Arctostaphylo-Pinetum catalaunicae); and Atropa baetica etc. young eagle (Hieraaetus fasciatus), the goshawk (Accipiter In the river, there are a number of interesting in the most unusual spots we can find box scrub The humid environments have some relictual species Photo: Vicent Pellicer gentilis), the peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus), the native species, such as the Southwest European (Violo-Quercetum faginae buxetosum) and others. In such as the butterwort (Pinguicola dertosensis), endemic 3 Mediterranean creek plant life eagle owl (Bubo bubo), etc. and those that nest there nase (Chondrostoma toxostoma), the red roach the more humid areas of the upper stages, to the to the massifs and found on limestone stalactites. Photo: Ana Ávila Aguilà for the summer, such as the short-toed eagle (Circaetus (Rutilus arcasii) and the white-clawed crayfish south of the massif, there are beech groves (Primulo- Of particular interest are the beech tree groves of gallicus), the booted eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus), the (Austrapotamobius pallipes); and among the Fagetum) and yew groves (Saniculo-Taxetum), which these mountains, the most southerly in the Catalan 4 Faig Pare, a monumental tree Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus), etc. invertebrates, there are endemic species from the are a remnant of times gone by, when the weather territories. These beech tree groves are some of the Photo: Boluña fotografs There are many other interesting bird species to be mollusc, arachnid and coleopteran groups that appear was cooler and more humid. most southerly in Europe and have been especially found in Els Ports, including the dipper (Cinclus on the list of endangered species in the Plan for Areas The ridge tops, subjected to strong winds for a protected by the Les Fagedes dels Ports Partial Nature 5 Pine trees on the cliffs Photo: Jarkov Reverté cinclus), the nuthatch (Sitta europaea), the wheatear of Natural Interest in Catalonia. good part of the year, house a number of species Reserve. Castell GANDESA de Mudfer Calaceit Santa Magdalena (Calaceite) Pinell de Brai Poblat ibric de Sant Antoni de Calaceit Arenys de Lled Bot Mare de Du (Arens de Lled) de la Fontcalda Prat de Comte Lled d'Algars Sant Salvador Benifallet (Lled) d'Horta LA REFOIA Horta de riu Sant Joan Canaleta Cretes (Cretas) Pals lÕEbre MONTSAGRE Ref. del Mol de lÕOli Xerta Tivenys Sant Roc Arnes ROQUES riu dels DE BENET Estrets Ref. de la Font Nova MONTASPRE Mas de Alfara la Franqueta de Carles riu RASES DEL Algars MARACO Ref. de les Clotes Bitem el Toscar Ref. de Terranyes LES FOIES la Vall Figuera Beseit els Reguers (Beceite) TERRANYES riu Ulldem el Mascar Roquetes Ref. de Caro Observatori de l'Ebre MOLA DE CATê el Matarranya Tortosa el Raval CARO de Crist LA CARAMELLA CARLARES MILLERS Ref. del Mas del Frare Lloret barranc de Sant Antoni LES VALLCANERES REFALGARê la Vall Mas de Barberans la Fou Ref.