Anchor AMIDST THE RUINS Pining for the mellifluous voice of Rani Roopmati and the soft strains of music that once reverberated in its corridors, sits forlorn the citadel of Mandu, atop the hill watching the revered Narmada gently flow by. Words SHOMA ABHYANKAR Dating back to 11th century, on a distant hill of the Vindhya Overlooking the plateau of Malwa and valley of Narmada, ranges is Mandapa Durg or Buddhi Mandu, the old Mandu Mandu’s strategic position as a military post proved to be with rock cut caves and temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, its undoing. It caught the eye of the Delhi Sultanate and that was ruled by the Parmar kings. A flourishing town, after much resistance fell to Alauddin Khalji in 1305. Later Mandapa Durg, attracted much attention. Attacked, the Afghan governor of Malwa declared his independence plundered and desecrated by many rulers from Delhi, the to establish the Ghuri Dynasty. It was Hoshang Shah, the town gradually lost its Hindu origins and somewhere along son of the rebel governor who elevated Mandu’s status and the time came to be known as Mandu. renamed it ‘Shadiabad’, the ‘City of Joy’. Scrupulous warrior On a summer trip to Indore, a sudden plan to visit Mandu that he was, his taste in architecture was equally refined. materialised amidst strong protests and discouraging heat Hoshang Shah who had the town of Hoshangabad named waves. Mandu is best visited in monsoons when the dry after him, built not only the impregnable fort wall of Mandu bleak brown landscape of deep chasms, mysterious cervices, but is also credited with the impressive Jami Masjid, Asharafi sharp-edged cliffs and defiant plateaus are clothed in softer Mahal and his own tomb built in white marble. As the guide soothing emerald-esque hues. It is during the rains that rattled off more names and dates from his memory, it was the little lakes come back to life and proudly show off the the tiny bits he mentioned randomly that interested me reflections of palaces and pavilions. And it is during the rains more. Included in the Mandu village group of monuments, that the freshly bathed ruins speak of the bygone era. Hoshang Shah’s contributions have a distinct flavour. While But I had no patience to wait for the monsoon and revisit the Jami Masjid built on a raised platform with its three the region. I reached Mandu under the scorching sun and large domes and many small cupolas on three-sided corridors was immediately drawn to makeshift stalls selling sweet was influenced from the architecture of the Mosque of and sour juice made from large sweet potato look-alike Damascus, his pristine white tomb, the first in the country to fruits of the Baobab tree locally called ‘Mandu ki imli’. The be clad in marble, was said to be the inspiration for surprisingly refreshing juice boosted the sapped energy just Taj Mahal. enough for me to explore the stone ruins. Asharafi Mahal opposite the Jami Masjid, once a A wiry middle-aged man claiming to be a legitimate guide madarassa or school built by Hoshang Shah, later became convinced me to hire his services. It was a wise decision home to a seven-storeyed victory tower of another ruler. considering that the monuments segregated in distinct The guide in all earnestness informed me that the king who Once a famous post under Mughal rule, Mandu today, houses the groups are strewn over an expanse of 13 kilometres within built the tower named it so because a single ‘asharfi’ or gold ruins of numerous structures and the battlement walls. coin, presumably the currency then, was placed on each step ancient architectural marvels that stand testament to its grand and varied history AUGUST 2018 67 BEHZAD J. LARRY DIC0818-Anchor-Mandu_1st read done.indd 66-67 02/08/18 6:09 pm The stone ruins of Mandu in the form of mosques, forts and palaces take us back to the days of Islamic rule when Afghan architectural style was picked up even by the local artisans 68 AUGUST 2018 DIC0818-Anchor-Mandu_1st read done.indd 68-69 02/08/18 6:09 pm Resembling a huge ship, the linear structure of Jahaz Mahal was constructed to sit sandwiched between the twin lakes of Munj Talao and Kapur Talao; (below) with its three large domes and many small cupolas on three-sided corridors, Jami Masjid was influenced from the architecture of the Mosque of Damascus DISCOVER THIS Baobab trees, native to Africa are found only at Mandu in India. Some of these trees are believed to be 500 years old. These bottle-trunk trees were brought by African merchants who had a flourishing trade relation with the Malwa rulers. The fruits of this tree are said to be a storehouse of Vitamin C. The juice of the fruit is a natural shield against heat stroke. The fruits are also sold in the form of candied cubes. leading up to seventh floor. The ruler apparently liked his The ship palace or Jahaz Mahal, so called because of its women lithesome and hence, the women from his harem were linear structure was constructed to sit sandwiched between made to climb the seven floors everyday as a fitness regimen two large lakes—the Munj Talao and Kapur Talao. The and rewarded with the gold coin (an amusing lore probably Mughal emperor Jehangir, on his visit to Mandu was so fabricated by travel guides). enamoured that he raved about it in his memoir, Tuzuk-i- The guide steered me next to the Sagar Talao group of Jahangir. I could only imagine those lakes shimmering in the monuments. We stopped at an ‘echo point’ near ‘Dai ka reflection of the terraced palace on an evening lit up by Mahal’ and ‘Dai ki choti behen ka Mahal’—unusual names oil lanterns. for the tombs of the royal wet-nurse and her sister. Promptly Jahaz Mahal was built as a pleasure palace and harem by giving a loud call, he illustrated the strangeness of the echo Ghiyasuddin Khalji who inherited Mandu from his father when the sound reflected twice from one direction and only Muhammad Khalji. Having ousted Hoshang Shah’s dynasty, once from the other side, probably due to the position of Muhammad Khalji and his son ruled Mandu for another half a the tombs. century adding not only new structures to the walled city but The Hindu names of lakes like Sagar Talao have stuck also sprucing up the ones contributed by previous rulers. even after Mandu changed hands with several Muslim rulers. An unusual trapezoid structure, Hindola Mahal, stood out The monuments that still survive at Sagar Talao included the from the rest of the buildings. The massive walls and inclined impressive large Caravan Serai and Mullick Mugith’s mosque. buttresses imparted a swing-like appearance to it. With its While the serai (inn) has plain interiors and exterior, the collapsed roof, the sun filtering across its huge arches created mosque with a central courtyard and corridors has intricately interesting patterns of light and shade. carved pillars from temples pre-dating the mosque. The As far as my eyes could see, there were more ruins that blue tiles that once adorned the mosque are nothing more were lost to time. At one side stood the Taveli Mahal, once than a suggestion now. Each new conqueror left his indelible a stable probably, but housing the tourism office now and on influence on the architecture of the town. By the time opposite end were underground water reservoirs, Champa structures at Sagar Talao were made, the local artisan had Baodi and Ujala Baodi with ramps and steps. mastered the style of Islamic architecture. I stood on the terrace of Jahaz Mahal for that one last look We next proceeded to the Rewa Kund and Royal Enclave before heading towards the corridors where Miyan Bayezid monuments. The Royal Enclave structures were most Baz Bahadur Khan, the last independent Sultan of Malwa elaborate and beautiful but it was those at Rewa Kund that and village belle Roopmati had romanced. There, though are pulled at your heart perhaps because a tragic love story still various versions to the love story—depending on who you breathes in the now silent stone edifices. hear it from. It is in fact the story of the king and the village Wandering through the ruins of the Royal Enclave, the girl that Mandu is most known for. genius of the then architects impressed me much. Complete At Rewa Kund, the guide pointed out to a pleasure with ‘hamam’ or the Turkish bath that had provision of both pavilion right on the edge of the tank which was probably hot and cold water, underground water-cooled pavilions, built much earlier and renovated by subsequent rulers. The terraces with fountains and water palace, the Royal Enclave kund or water tank is much revered among Hindus. The was all grandeur. devotees who take the annual ‘Narmada Parikrama’ begin 70 AUGUST 2018 DIC0818-Anchor-Mandu_1st read done.indd 70-71 02/08/18 6:09 pm A few broad stone steps up from the water tank called Rewa Kund leads you to Baz Bahadur's palace that offers a breathtaking view of Queen Roopmati's pavilion their journey at the tank. It is believed that the water from the river appeared in the tank through some underground fissure. About 40 broad stone steps led from the water tank to the palace known as Baz Bahadur’s palace. An aqueduct that elevated water from Rewa Kund and supplied it for fountains in palace courtyard was the most unique feature of the structure.