A guide to the heart of

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MADHYA PRADESH MADHYA PRADESH TOP SIGHTS • FOOD • SHOPPING

All you need to know about Madhya Pradesh • Top 10 attractions of Madhya Pradesh • Options for staying, eating and shopping • Everything you need to know while planning a trip

• Packed with travel tips from experts World’s Leading Travel Expert

WHY YOU CAN TRUST US... World’s Our job is to make amazing travel Leading experiences happen. We visit the places Travel we write about each and every edition. We Expert never take freebies for positive coverage, so 1st Edition Published January 2018 you can always rely on us to tell it like it is. Not for sale Pocket MADHYA PRADESH TOP SIGHTS • FOOD • SHOPPING

This guide is researched and written by Supriya Sehgal Contents Foreword...... 4 ...... 64 Plan Your Trip...... 6 ...... 78 Need to Know...... 8 ...... 92 This is Madhya Pradesh ...... 12 ...... 100 10 Top Experiences...... 16 ...... 108 Madhya Pradesh in a Week... 24 ...... 116 Getting Around...... 26 Mandu...... 126 Eating Out ...... 28 ...... 136 Tribal Culture...... 30 Kanha National Park...... 140 Shopping Guide...... 32 Bandhavgarh National Park... 150 ...... 158 Mp’s best trips...... 34 Pench National Park...... 162 Madhya Pradesh at a Glance...... 36 Satpura...... 168 ...... 38 Index...... 174 ...... 48 Acknowledgements...... 190 ...... 56 4 Pocket Madhya Pradesh The Heart of 5

foreword multicultural influences on cuisine (Bhopali, Bundeli, ) and the merging together of its Islamic and Hindu traditions to create an unbeatable The Heart of India repertoire of dishes. Devendra ROYAL LEGACY The heart of , Madhya Forts, palaces and temples are reminders of the state’s ancient history and its kingdoms. Remnants of the past still cast their glory on the architectural Pradesh beats to the rhythm of heritage, landscape of the state. Madhya Pradesh’s royal legacy is experienced natural beauty, culture and traditions in through cuisine, sports, hospitality and literature, especially poetry.

the country. SPORTING HERITAGE

Madhya Pradesh has a long legacy of robust sporting traditions. is NATURAL WEALTH a popular sport and we have three international cricket stadiums across Madhya Pradesh has abundant natural resources. Its forests, virgin and the former kingdoms of Gwalior and Indore, and the royal descendants are otherwise, are a haven for magnificent wildlife, beasts and birds and rich keen patrons and players of the game. Hockey is popular as are football and forest cover. It’s no wonder that its many sanctuaries and national parks are traditional sports like langdi and kho kho. a huge draw for the traveller with a love for the wild and the great outdoors. The author is a first class cricketer and has been playing for Madhya Pradesh for two The majority of India’s tiger reserves and wildlife sanctuaries are located decades. The domestic cricketing hero lives in Ujjain. here, attracting tourists from the rest of India and abroad to witness the beauty of these animals in their natural surroundings. The state is keen on Boat rides offer panoramic views of ’s ghats conservation and protection of its flora and fauna.

ARCHITECTURe

Madhya Pradesh’s grand monuments and temples are architectural wonders. The monuments bring alive the history of the past and the various faiths that contributed to the heritage of the state. The World Heritage site of the stunning temples at Khajuraho; the stunning stupa at Sanchi that bears testimony to the Buddhist faith, the festivals that bring people together for special rites, and the forts and palaces of the former royal dynasties of Gwalior, Indore, Ujjain, , and Bundela are all major attractions.

CRAFTS & TRADITIONS

Madhya Pradesh’s pride is its hardy people. Its many tribal communities have yielded fascinating customs, crafts and art traditions. The state’s textile heritage from Maheshwar and Chanderi speak of the expertise of its artisans. The Gonds and their paintings adorn not just the walls of their own homes but art galleries and museums in Madhya Pradesh and across the country and the world at large. Lesser known but no less special is the state’s cuisine. If the royal hunting history of the past offered sumptuous recipes of game meat, Madhya Pradesh’s chefs celebrate the state’s 6 plan your trip plan your trip 7

Plan Your Trip

Need to Know...... 8

This is Madhya Pradesh ...... 12

10 Top Experiences...... 16

Madhya Pradesh in a Week...... 24

Getting Around...... 26

Eating in Madhya Pradesh ...... 28

Tribal Culture of Madhya Pradesh...... 30

Shopping Guide...... 32

The majestic medieval hilltop fort at Gwalior 8 plan your trip need to know 9

Apart from being home to a third of India’s forests, the state has a rich cache Need To Know of towering forts, ancient temples and almost fairy-tale like structures that have stood the test of time. Its royal past is seen throughout the state in the form of architecture, modern institutions and heritage monuments and hotels. The state’s efficient tourism infrastructure makes it welcoming for visitors.

WHEN TO GO

Oct–Feb Expectedly, the plains of MP are best to visit during the winter.

Mar–Jun The four major national parks are best seen in the hotter months of March–May. Wildlife enthusiasts often extend their visits until June end to scan the ‘tiger hotspots’.

Quick Facts

• Languages: , English. Price Ranges • Money: ATMs of both nationalised Throughout this book, reviews use and private banks are available in all the following price ranges. Rates major tourist towns. quoted don’t include seasonal • Phone Connectivity: BSNL pricing, taxes, unless otherwise numbers do work in remote areas. specified. Get a pre-paid SIM if you must stay Key to Rates connected. Jungle safaris offer a unqiue travel experience in Madhya Pradesh • Internet Access: Wi-fi is mostly Accommodation available at hotels in Bhopal, Indore, ``` over `5000 Madhya Pradesh has a varied and fascinating history. Many dynasties and Khajuraho and other major cities. In `` `2000–5000 some cases, wi-fi may be available empires have left their footprints on this soil whose imprints can be felt even only in the lobby area or if paid for. ` below `2000 today. • Tourist Information: The head Eating Apart from a rich repository of historic gems, it is one of the subcontinent’s office of the Madhya Pradesh State most restful, laid-back states which offers an opportunity to enjoy the art of Tourism Development Corporation ``` over `500 ‘doing nothing’. The only time you are shaken out of your comfort is when Ltd (MPSTDC) is in Bhopal. `` `200–500 you traverse the jungles that fill almost 11,000sq km across the state. It’s (Paryatan Bhawan, Bhadbhada ` below `500 the best place to hear the roar of a tiger or the chatter of macaques. It’s not Road; 10am–5pm; closed on Sun, surprising that Madhya Pradesh has the highest number of national parks 2nd and 3rd Sat and state holidays). Abbreviations and wildlife sanctuaries in the country. Their website www.mptourism.com s single rooms gives ample information. Brochures The state also boasts of religious and cultural diversity. It offers a treasure of main destinations are available d double rooms trove of cultural experiences – whether it’s the Buddhist structures of at MP Tourism counters at airports, ste suites Sanchi or the temples at Orchha, the vibrant markets around the ancient and private and MPSTDC- in Bhopal or the pulsating energy of festivals in Ujjain. properties throughout the state. 10 plan your trip Need To Know 11

number of airports, but for travellers, these are the most important ones: Top Tip: Booking for safaris Bhoj International Airport (Bhopal), Devi Airport (Indore), Gwalior Airport, Jabalpur Airport and Khajuraho Airport. These are March and April are busy months for wildlife lodges, so it is best to book close to the tourist sectors and connected to major Indian cities by a fleet of at least one month ahead. There is a limit on safari Gypsys that can enter service providers like Air India, IndiGo and Jet Airways. each day, so you need to instruct the resort to arrange them for you beforehand. Even though tickets and 4-wheel drives (Gypsys) are available • Rail: Rail connectivity extends to the major tourist areas of Madhya at the park gates, it is best to ask your hotel or resort to arrange this. The Pradesh including Gwalior, , Khajuraho, Bhopal, Jabalpur and Jhansi. premium of approximately `500 is worth it. Jabalpur is a major junction on the Western Railways Division of India, and other cities like Bhopal, Gwalior, Khajuraho and other parts are also well- connected. The New –Bhopal, Shatabdi (Train No 12002) FIRST TIME IN MADHYA PRADESH is a popular train that connects Gwalior, Lalitpur and Bhopal. The main • Advance Planning: There is merit in planning train tickets two months in station, Gwalior Junction, is centrally located and more than 30 daily trains advance for availability and flights for better rates. If visiting the national go to ’s Cantonment station and Delhi, and to Jhansi (for Orchha and parks, book your safaris with your accommodation, as limited vehicles Khajuraho). (Gypsy) can go into the jungle on each day. Many hotels near the national parks shut down during the off-season (July–Oct), so checking ahead will • Road: Madhya Pradesh lends itself to great road trips. Even though many of help. Many hotels remain open during non-peak period so you can avail of the interiors have single lane highways, the roads are in decent condition. It discounted tariffs. is better to hire a cab (Ola /Uber) for extended trips. Recommended MP Tour and Travels; www.mptourandtravels.com; %9584003002; day trips from HEALTH & SAFETY `1800 onwards, longer trips `9–11 per km (min 250km/day) plus `200 driver allowance/day). • Hospitals: Carry your own specific medication if needed. Bhopal and Indore have good medical facilities, but the smaller towns will not be able to Bhil tribal women at a local festival handle complicated medical issues. Bhopal Memorial Hospital & Research Centre (%755 274 2212 – 16; Bypass Road, Bhanpur) and Bombay Hospital (www.bombayhospitalindore.com; Indore Ring Road) are Indore’s best general hospitals.

• Travelling Alone: Madhya Pradesh is safe to travel alone, but as a precaution, arrive at your accommodation by 8pm (later for Bhopal and Indore) if you’re travelling alone. It is recommended to cross the areas bordering before sunset.

WHAT TO PACK

Expect hot and dry summers (40-420C) and sharp winters (touching a low of 10-150C), so pack clothing accordingly. Essentials should include sunscreen, hats, caps and walking shoes that will withstand long treks through forts, a tryst with the jungles and ones that you can easily ditch when entering a temple or a weaver’s home.

Getting There & Away

• Air: Madhya Pradesh is well-connected to the rest of the country by a 12 pSulanmm yourer Hol tridaysip ThBesis tis S Madhyaummer Hpolradeshidays 13

This is Madhya Pradesh Historic Legacy The mighty of India, from to the Gupta and Satavahana The second largest state in India, Madhya Pradesh offers eclectic kings had marched on this soil, leaving behind their signatures in the form of charms, prehistoric art, tiger parks, fantastic relief work on the architecture, royal legacies and a people who are culturally attuned and hard World Heritage–listed temples, monuments, palaces and a wealth working. The beautiful monuments, temples, mosques and stupas that hark back to the past tell us of the multicultural heritage of this state. of tribal crafts, villages and markets. Orchha and Gwalior are complemented with the delightfully mischievous The Heartland erotic of Khajuraho, created by the Chandelas possibly between 900–1100 AD. Madhya Pradesh has a glorious prehistoric past. The cave The landlocked state, plugged into the map of India, is where the country’s paintings at Bhimbetka rock shelters and pottery remains are testimony to geographical heart ticks. It lives up to its serendipitous location in active human settlements in the region and an antiquity that leads travellers showcasing the most exquisite vistas of the subcontinent – each so diverse from the other – that it takes some time to mentally yank yourself out from to the early days of human life almost 10,000 years ago. The rock shelters one experience and completely immerse in another. with black and red stick figures give explicit orientation to hunting methods, celebrations and the harmony between man and the wild. Madhya Pradesh is surrounded by to the south, to the west, Uttar Pradesh to the north and Chhattisgarh to the east, which was Kipling’s Country carved out from Madhya Pradesh itself. The linguistic, culinary and cultural influences blending into the state from all these directions offer a fantastic The state’s literary legacy further complements its mosaic of geographical opportunity to experience a multi-cultural diversity. richness. Madhya Pradesh has the largest green cover in India. It is a state with vast swathes of natural woodlands, forested areas and large tracts that Splendid marks the 17th century Jehangir in Orchha offer sanctuary to man, bird and beast. 14 plan your trip This is Madhya Pradesh 15

Ochre hued crags, emerald Satpura mountain ranges, dense green jungles, Kanha National Park is called the pride of Madhya Pradesh for its abundant wildlife are home to a rich and varied wildlife here. Its rivers include the mighty Narmada that snakes through the state, the Betwa and the banks of the locked in the slim alleys, where around the historic mosques, are lanes holy where the pilgrims of the congregate. This crammed with excellent street food. Poha-jalebi is the staple breakfast food mosaic of varied geographical zones has resulted in Madhya Pradesh having of the city. In the more reserved Chanderi (p48), the only clamour comes six tiger reserves, 10 national parks and 25 wildlife sanctuaries. This is tiger from the house of the weavers, who create magic in silk and cotton, bent country, and five of the parks and sanctuaries are rooted in conservation over their looms. The music of Gwalior’s (p38) famous son Tansen (p42) and of the Royal . Kanha (p140), Pench (p162), Bandhavgarh the craftsmanship of Gond artists (p30) speak of Madhya Pradesh’s varied (p150), Panna (p158), Satpura (p168) and Sanjay Dubri promise a seamless cultural and artistic traditions. The regal splendour of the , landscape of sal or teak canopies and nothing but shades of green as and echoes in Gwalior, Rewa, Orchha (p56), and Maheshwar among far as the eyes can see. The big wildlife loop is one of the most stunning other towns and cities. experiences of the state. Beyond the jungles, exquisite temples and forts, it is the impact of the Cities & Culture diversity of Madhya Pradesh that is truly impressive. Commemorative cairns in Sanchi (p97) for Buddhists, the delirious devotion seen at the temples and It is not only the history that leaves the traveller awestruck, but also the melas across the state and the camaraderie during Eid in Bhopal all make living culture of its cities. For instance, Bhopal (p78), the state capital, Madhya Pradesh extraordinary as a state. echoes the vibe of any modern city in India. However the old part is time- 16 pSulanmm yourer Hol tridaysip Bes10t S Toummp Eerxp erHoliencesidays 17

10 Top Experiences 2 National Parks of Madhya Pradesh The big national park loop of Panna (p158), Bandhavgarh (p150), Kanha (p140), Pench (p162) and Satpura (p168) shelter tigers, leopards, wild boars, sloth bears, jackals, hyenas, dholes and many species of birds, reptiles and diverse flora. With 10 national parks, of which six are tiger reserves, Madhya Pradesh is one of the greenest regions in the Indian subcontinent. You can look beyond the superlatives to hear the roar of the tiger, the rutting of the deer or the eerie quiet of the jungles from the comfort of high-end wildlife lodges. Be immersed in the forest life with the help of naturalists, who accompany you on the safaris. No other testimony works better to describe this stunning lush region, other than the fact that it sparked the writing of Rudyard Kipling’s Jungle Book.

1 Khajuraho

Despite being abandoned for a millennium, the ancient Khajuraho shrines (both Jain and Hindu) are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and people are awestruck by the splendid structures. Built between the 10–12th centuries by the Chandela kings, the temple town faded away to obscurity until TS Burt, a British explorer (p67), pegged it on the travel map of India in 1883. Of the 85 temples that stood until the end of the 12th century, only some 20 remain, scattered over a small region of 6sq km. Ever since, 3 Satpura Walking Trail this unassuming but historically rich town has been at the top of the list for many travellers. The primary highlight is the temple circuit, especially a few Satpura (p168) injects a fresh dose of excitement for wildlife enthusiasts that have a profusion of erotic sculptures and intricate carvings draping the who tread on the land that their favourite animals walk on. This is one of surfaces. This, and the travel hostels, cafes and a lazy vibe to match, has the few national parks in the country that allows ‘on-foot’ discoveries with made Khajuraho a decidedly bohemian destination. a specific walking trail chalked out for visitors. Although the trail lies on the periphery of the jungle, it is not hard to spot animals at close proximity. 18 plan your trip 10 Top Experiences 19

households, and the town makes for an essential stop for travellers who want to veer off the regular itineraries. The weavers behind the looms may not have stepped out of this small town, but the Chanderi saris that they magically churn out, are regulars in international and national markets. The craft goes back to the 2nd century and there is no sign of its slowing down as geometric and floral designs continue to decorate the silk, silk-cotton and cotton yardages produced.

Even if you don’t sight them, a rustle in the leaves is sure to send nervous excitement soaring. This is ideal for those who are interested in reptiles – monitor lizards, snakes and frogs. Forest guards, equipped with guns, offer company and share anecdotes during the walk.

4 Chanderi

Start your trip to Chanderi (p48) by visiting the ancient but well-maintained fort. The 11th-century town that dominated trade routes through Central India held the interest of several Mughal and kings, resulting in its streets 5 Ujjain Kumbh Mela resounding with the sound of battle and flowing with the blood Historic Ujjain (p108) is one of the four holy cities (the others being of soldiers. The town is dotted Allahabad, Haridwar and ) in India that is reserved as a venue for the with Mughal and Bundela relics once-in-12-years religious festival, Kumbh Mela (p114). This is a time that that rise from the otherwise offers many photo-opportunities. The banks of the Shipra River in Ujjain are dusty lego-like townscape. inundated with devotees attending the Poorna Kumbh Mela, one of the most Add to that the sound of fervent Hindu festivals in India. The event draws ascetics and devotees from working looms in almost all the every nook and corner who arrive here in waves to take a dip on specific holy 20 plan your trip 10 Top Experiences 21

days. The last Kumbh Mela was held in 2016, so the next big date is a decade in distinct red and white depictions on the inner walls of the cave shelters. and more away. According to believers, a dip in the river, on the shahi snan Co-ordinated animal hunting and celebrations make the two key themes of (royal bath) day, offers salvation from the cycle of rebirth. this stick figure artwork. The mammoth caves are numbered with signage outside, but it’s best to take a guide who can complement the information 6 Bhopal Street Food with their own twisted anecdotes and inferences. After all, that’s what makes travel fun. They say that Bhopal’s (p78) diverse culture is best sampled on a plate. A culinary extravaganza unfolds on the slim network of lanes in the old city

with a ‘jalebi-poha-’ staple breakfast combo being the showstopper. The striking line-up includes lassi, dahi vada, papri , nihari, biryani, mutton stew, moong dal halwa, Sulaimani chai, kebab bun and much more, dished out both from its Muslim kitchens and Hindu camps – no better landscape than the stomach to find such secularity. The ‘stand around the stall’ culture of eating allows for more people to fit into the already crammed streets, adding atmosphere to the collective love of food.

7 Bhimbetka Rock Shelters

The unimpressive craggy hill sprawled over 10sq km opens an ancient world of art by cave dwellers almost 10,000 years ago. Representation of life in the bygone era is showcased at the Bhimbetka rock shelters (p82) 22 plan your trip 10 Top Experiences 23

8 Orchha

Pleasantly bereft of over-commercialisation, the erstwhile 16th-century royal citadel of Bundela chief, Rudra Pratap, Orchha (p56) is ideal for those who like paced-out travel plans minus the well-oiled slick hospitality of over- touristic cities. Orchha’s charm lies in its location by the rocky , its handful of monuments and the chance to raft down the river and cycle to explore some green belts on the outskirts. The cenotaphs commemorating the erstwhile rulers of Orchha stand out against the backdrop of the river and blue sky. The offbeat traveller is likely to find this stop worthwhile. Among many other legends that make a trip here interesting, the one about the Ram Raja Temple (p58) stands out – it is the only place in India where Lord is worshipped both as a king and a deity.

with the fort, that he called it the ‘pearl amongst the fortresses of Hind’. The ornamented Man Mandir Palace is the most stunning part of the fort. Do trek around to see the step-wells, palaces, underground pools and temples within the complex.

a Sanchi Stupa

A definitive reminder of Madhya Pradesh’s unique social and historical composition, the Sanchi Stupa (p94) stands not only as the main among the Buddha’s relics but as the veritable symbol of the state’s diversity. Built in the 3rd century BC with additions until the 12th century AD, it is the oldest stone structure in India that covers the relics of the Buddha with its hemispherical brick-work. The stupa was commissioned by Ashoka as a bid to spread the religion across India. The mortal remains of the Buddha were distributed across the 9 country and Sri Lanka and this was the Gwalior, and the twin sub-cities of Lashkar and Morar, stand in the looming spot chosen by the king in Central India. shadow of the 8th-century hill-fort. The fort had a distinct and practical 3km Since then Sanchi has been an integral wall to ward off any attack by the Mughals – adversaries of the Bundelas part of the Buddhist travel circuit. in the region for a long time. So enamoured was the Mughal king, , 24 plan your trip Madhya Pradesh in a Week 25

amazing sound and light show to dash off Madhya Pradesh in a Week to Khajuraho (175km; 4hr) by train so that The state deserves plenty of time to immerse oneself in its natural you can start your temple tour early the next morning. and historical destinations. But if you have only a week available for Madhya Pradesh, this plan would offer an ample introduction. Day 3 – Khajuraho Taking a cab is recommended so you can see the countryside and Visiting the Western group of temples can stop as you please. take over three hours just looking at the fine intricate sculptures on the temples. After sightseeing, a spa session at one of the Day 1 – Gwalior luxury accommodations in town will alleviate Arrive in Gwalior in the morning and spend the day viewing and walking your travel weariness and the heat of the day. around the grand fort. Visits to the tombs of the great musician Tansen and his mentor Gaus, and the State Museum with its many artefacts are Day 4 & 5 – Bandhavgarh & Safari Time worthwhile. In the evening, catch the 45-minute sound and light show and Keep enough time on the tarmac to reach drive to Orchha (124km; 3hr) to spend the night. Bandhavgarh for the afternoon safari. Kankati, Bamera and other tiger spots are Day 2 – Orchha well-known tourist clinchers as they offer Settle for a more relaxed day at the small town, by cycling to all the sightings pretty regularly. Rows of four- monuments – especially the cenotaphs. Relax by the Betwa River or try your wheelers (Gypsys) work as tiger spotting rafting skills if there is ample water in the river. Use the late evening after the beacons. Also keep your eyes peeled for Safaris help to get close to the wild in sloth bears, jackals, dholes and wild boars for Madhya Pradesh Bhopal is marked by its beautiful twin lakes some more wildlife action. Spend the evening at a wildlife lodge in the company of other enthusiasts and naturalists.

Reserve the next day for another safari. Set aside ample time to relax in the midst of birdsong at the lodges that are mostly located at the fringes of the forest. King’s Lodge is recommended for this. Leave the tiger reserve in the afternoon to reach Bhopal, the capital of Madhya Pradesh.

Day 6 & 7 – Bhopal & Around

It is imperative to keep at least two days for this city to understand the cultural diversity of the state. The tribal and state museums, Taj-ul-Masjid, street food scene and visits to other monuments are likely to take up the whole day. Spend the evening by the lake at Bharat Bhawan and watch the water light up with the reflection of the city’s acknowledgment of the night.

A swift half-day trip to the Bhimbetka cave shelters or Sanchi is a good detour. If you are quick enough, and have more time back in the city, a brisk stroll by the lake will offer the local flavour of the city. That would be a perfect way to end the trip. 26 plan your trip Getting Around 27

Getting Around Cabs Taxis are the best way to get around as If You Like: Madhya Pradesh is well-connected to the north, west, east and they offer flexibility. Ample cab services Tropic of Cancer south Indian cities. Major airports include the ones at Bhopal, in major cities like Bhopal, Indore and Gwalior allow smooth travel between Located 30km northeast of Indore and Khajuraho. However, the trains form an elaborate the travel sectors of the state. The Bhopal, a small village, Chhola, network within cities, making it convenient to get around. It’s approximate rates of all cab companies is famous for the fact that the prudent to plan ahead and book your tickets two months in are `9–11 per km for a minimum of Tropic of Cancer runs through 250km per day and an extra `200 for it. Drive here to get a bite of advance. Within cities and around, it is recommended to hire a cab. daily allowance for the driver. Tolls and excitement. parking fees are separate. Use this rough Air calculation to fix the rate ahead and Ola/Uber are good bets. Top Tip: Air India, Jet Airways and IndiGo are Autorickshaws Highway Treat the main air carriers that operate in the Autorickshaws are easily available in big cities. Minimum charges are `20 state. These connect Bhopal, Khajuraho but fix a price earlier so that there is no squabbling. Tourist savvy towns like This is a MPSTDC (Madhya and Indore for travellers coming in from Khajuraho and Orchha also offer cycles for the day. Pradesh State Tourism Delhi, Bengaluru, and . Development Corporation) Other major cities like and initiative and it’s easy to spot are also connected, but may Highway Treats are comfy pit stops along the state’s highways Highway Treat restaurants have stops in the middle. and hotels along the major highways of the state. They Train are open until 10pm and have Some of the most convenient trains that clean toilet facilities. Some should be on your radar are the Delhi- Highway Treats also provide Bhopal, Habibganj Shatabdi (Train No rooms to stay. 12002) that runs between and Bhopal, covering Gwalior as well. Kushinagar Express (Train No 11015) and Mumbai CST– Express (Train No 11057) are the popular trains from Mumbai. More than 20 trains ply between all the prominent Madhya Pradesh cities and Delhi or Mumbai. Look up www.indianrail.gov.in for details.

Road

A number of national and state highways criss-cross the length and breadth of Madhya Pradesh. The road conditions are not superlatively good and the roads are sometimes just single lanes, obstructed by highway traffic of large vehicles, but the rewards of verdant topography and forest areas are worth the slowing down. 28 plan your trip Eating Out 29

showed interest in this trading city, Eating Out brought their gastronomical traditions Snapshot: Mahua If there is one thing that dominates the cuisine in Madhya Pradesh, here. Rogan josh and murg mussalam are popular meat dishes here. The One of the most visible trees in it is the diversity. A mixed religious lineage and seasonal and local nargisi kofta, a dish of eggs coated in Madhya Pradesh and around is availability of meat and veggies make each regional cuisine distinct mince, is a popular snack. the mahua. The butter tree or Madhuca Indica and its flower in the state. The influence of Maharashtrian, Gujarati is a recurring motif in festive and Rajasthani cuisines is also evident rituals here. The tree sheds Flavours from history in the region. It must have been its creamy flowers which are picked by the forest people Madhya Pradesh cuisine offers a tempting variety. The Baghelkhand region the work of the Peshwas of , who, and used in a variety of ways. of the Vindhyas, Bhopal, and Malwa (p76), each bears its along with allies like the Holkars of While some roast the flowers in signature dishes, flavours and spices. A good variety of vegetarian and meat Indore, the Scindias of Gwalior and the dishes, the mahua is popularly preparations are available in the state. Bhonsles of left more than just a historical imprint – they left their love consumed as a toddy. The Wheat, maize, jowar-made breads or rotis and lentil-based dishes are for poha, although the dash of sev and local alcohol is distilled from staples here. jalebi is a bonafide Madhya Pradesh the flowers and makes for a touch. This is true for the Indori poha potent drink. In Bhopal, the streets around Jama Masjid thrum to the retail cacophony of too which is a treat in itself. Halt at bazaars. In here, old stalwarts dish out biryani, nihari, Sulaimani chai and the ’s bastion of Gwalior for golden pearls of motichoor ladoo and, kebabs as a nod to Bhopal’s nawabi heritage. The Mughals, who repeatedly given the Maratha past, local dishes like dal ka shorba or the charo ka ras (chicken broth). A thali offering Gwalior’s staples of dal bati churma Bundelkhandi cuisine can be found along the northern border of the state, close to Uttar Pradesh’s appetite. Though difficult to find at hotels, local homes still keep up with the Bundeli recipes of anwariya (Indian gooseberry curry), thopa (savoury), thonmar (jowar porridge) and besan ke aloo (chickpea flour and potatoes) amongst others, with rice and makki ki roti making their appearance.

Quick Treats

MP has a fine tradition of snacks that can double as easy meals on the go. The palak puri, a household treat earlier, has rightly stepped out into eating outlets across the state. These are piping hot puris made of wheat with a layer of palak or spinach sauteed with spices. A dip of mango chutney or pickle by the side is best when wolfing down these finger-licking treats. The dahi puri or bafla (ghee fried wheat wedges) are quick treats as well.

Desserts

Travellers with a sweet tooth may want to go in search of the popular corn and milk dessert or raas ki kheer, chakki ki shaak, mawa baati, gajak, khopra pak and malpua. 30 plan your trip Tribal Culture 31

Tribal Culture Top Tip: Bhopal Tribal Museum Journeys into Madhya Pradesh’s tribal heartland are full of The best way to get a perspective into the tribal life of the state is a visit interesting surprises. The state that harks back to the times of the to the Tribal Museum in Bhopal (p80), where tribal life is accurately Mahabharata thrums with cultural traditions. The arts and crafts of depicted. Exhibits of utensils, clothing and crafts showcase an elaborate the people are a real showcase of their aesthetic sensiblity. presentation of an indigenous age-old society under one roof. Shamla Hills; Indian/foreigner `10/100, camera `50; noon–8pm Tue–Sun Tribal Communities

The once unfragmented state of Madhya Pradesh was home to almost Festivals 40 per cent of India’s tribal population, especially the Gonds, the largest Tribal festivals are mostly associated with the seasons – Bidari , tribe here, followed by the Bhils. Since the time Chhattisgarh was carved Hardhili, Navakhani, Jawara, Madai, Chherata and Bakbad are celebrated out of Madhya Pradesh, the state is now left with a tribal population that with great enthusiasm even now. comprises Gonds, Bhils, Baigas, Korkus, Bhariyas, Halbas, Kauls, Mariyas and Sahariyas. The Gonds are scattered around the Narmada, Satpura and Nagaji Fair is held at Posa village in in November or the Vindhya regions and the Bhils around , and Khargone. Today December. The fair is held in honour of Saint Nagaji who resided here 400 the Bhils and Gonds, in certain areas, have inched closer to urban life. Many years ago. It doubles as an animal fair where selling and buying of monkeys of them work in the lodges close to the jungles, so interaction with them and domestic animals take place for over a month along with the setting up is imperative. Others stay in smaller villages in the countryside and largely of food and children’s stalls. depend on farming.

Folk Traditions Music, arts and crafts mark the state’s folk festivals and fairs You are likely to encounter Gond villages during your trip to Madhya Pradesh. The village homes, which are not yet touched by rapid urbanisation, are a showcase for their indigenous aesthetics. The walls are often painted indigo, ochre and black. The process of painting motifs on them is called dhigna. The Gonds are also known for their love for storytelling, music, dancing and singing. The main dance forms include karma, saila, rina, dadaria and sua. Art forms like swang, gammat or tamasha are not prevalent on tourist circuits, but a detour to the villages will reward you with these sights. Local knowledge and calendars are imperative.

Arts & Crafts

Evidence of cave art on the cave shelters and rock galleries in Madhya Pradesh is testimony that art was a preoccupation with the prehistoric people here. Pottery, bamboo weaving, stone cutting and weaving are still practised in the interior villages. Gond painting, using natural dyes and pigments, has now become widely recognised as an art form outside the state too. 32 plan your trip Shopping Guide 33

today. Textiles and saris of Bagh wooden block prints are available at all Shopping Guide state emporiums. Roopayan, next to Malwa Resort in Mandu (41km), is a Fabulous textiles, vibrant art and metal craft all make for great buys small shop selling good-quality scarves, shawls, bedspreads, and clothing of Bagh prints. while travelling around Madhya Pradesh. Be it for your collection or Roopayan, Main Rd, Mandu; 9am–7pm; Mrignayanee across the state for souvenirs and gifts, the state emporiums and craftsmen in the Thappa & Thussa Jewellery – Gold and copper sheets are beaten together local areas have much to offer. and then stamped with floral and geometric patterns to make the Thappa and Thussa jewellery. The talented goldsmiths of Bhopal braid them Experience the joy of personalised retail therapy by having conversations together after beating them into thin sheets and then turn them into exotic with local craftspeople and shop owners who can give you an idea of the neckpieces and bangles. provenance or the making of a particular textile or a craft piece in MP. Chowk bazaar, Bhopal; dawn–dusk; `500 onwards Tikamgarhi Brass Metal Craft – Tikamgarh in Orchha has been the home to bell metal craft for hundreds of years. A few households are still engaged Gond Paintings – Colourful Gond paintings that reflect the affinity of the in the making of curios like canons and war weapons (earlier used by tribes to the flora and fauna of the land are popular buys. Gond art is also royalty) and bullock carts, cattle bells and temple decorations as symbols of available as table-top objects, souvenirs and other curios. daily life. Mrignayanee; Bhopal; %755 2554162; www.mphandicrafts.com; 10am–6pm; `200 onwards Shops on the main temple street of Orchha Dhurries from Siron – Pit looms in Siron, Jhabua and Jabalpur areas Morena Gajak – Get a box or two of the ‘melt-in-your-mouth’ Morena gajak produce colourful carpets, mostly hand-woven by women, who incorporate from none other than Daulatram Gupta, the unmatchable maker of the geometric and floral motifs on them. dessert. He imported the recipe from his wife’s namesake village. The shop Mrignayanee; www.mphandicrafts.com; 10am–6pm; `200 onwards is in Gwalior (p45) but one can also visit the factory on the outskirts with prior planning and permission. %751 2327190; Shri Anturam Shivhare Chowk, Naya Sadak, Lakshar; 10am–9pm Tikamgarhi brass metal crafts make for souvenirs and gifts

Chanderi Textiles – Geometrical and flower motifs make for key designs on the Chanderi fabric in silk, silk-cotton and pure cotton. The origin of the saris can be traced back to the Mughals, indicated by some designs that bear resemblance to the ashrafi coins of the era. At Chanderi, shop at Motamal Handlooms though the state-run Mrignayanees in key cities are the best for a reasonable variety. Motalmal Handlooms %754 7253321; Rajghat Rd; 10am–6pm, or any shop on Rajghat Rd

Maheshwari Saris – The tassel-ended cotton saris from Maheshwar have a fan following. The thin gauzy fabric is comfortable for the harsh summer and a favourite in the northern parts of India. Weaving centres at Maheshwar; Mrignayanee emporiums www.mphandicrafts.com

Bagh Prints – Craftsmen continue the 400-year-old block print tradition of their ancestors from Sind, better known for its Ajrak prints in MP even 34 Best Trips best trips 35

MP’s Best Trips

Madhya Pradesh at a Glance...... 36 Gwalior...... 38 Chanderi...... 48 Orchha...... 56 Khajuraho ...... 64 Bhopal...... 78 Sanchi ...... 92 Pachmarhi...... 100 Ujjain...... 108 Indore...... 116 Mandu...... 126 Jabalpur...... 136 Kanha National Park...... 140 Bandhavgarh National Park...... 150 Panna National Park...... 158 Pench National Park...... 162 Satpura...... 168

Wander the palaces and battlements of Orchha for a slice of heritage 36 Best Trips Madhya Pradesh at a glance 37 Madhya Pradesh at a Glance Tracking tigers at one of India’s two best tiger parks: Bandhavgarh Agra

National Park or Kanha National Park while wandering the plains of Dholpur U T T A R Pench; blushing at the erotic carvings on the exquisite temples in R A J A S T H A N Gwalior 25 P R A D E S H 86 Khajuraho; watching the sun set over the sculpted stone temples 28

Allahabad in Orchha; dining like a prince at Ahilya Fort in Maheshwar; cooling Jhansi Kota Raneh Chitrakoot Falls off under a waterfall in Pachmarhi; marvelling at the Jain rock Madhav (Shivpuri) Orchha National Park sculptures at the magnificent Gwalior Fort; seeking devotional Khajuraho 27 Lalitpur Bamitha Panna 3 Chanderi Madla Rewa fervour in Ujjain or beholding vibrant tribal art, Madhya Pradesh is 26 PannaAmarpatan National Park truly the heart of all experiences. Udayapur Sagar Tala Katni 12 Bandhavgarh National Park getting around Madhya Pradesh Islamnagar Umaria Sanchi Jabalpur Ujjain Bhojpur TRAIN More than 20 daily trains go to Agra’s cantonment station and to Bhopal 12 Narsinghpur Dindori Obaidullaganj 7 Jhansi for Orchha or Khajuraho and Delhi, while more than 15 go to Bhopal. Bhimbetka Dhar Indore Pipariya Hoshangabad Kanha Satpura Cycle-rickshaws, autorickshaws and taxis and Timurni Pachmarhi National CAB & AUTORICKSHAW Mandu National Chiraidongri Park Bhoramdeo Park Bilaspur cabs for hire are plentiful across all cities and towns. 26 Dhamnod Omkareshwar Khatiya Maheshwar Chhindwara Seoni Barnawapara Khandwa Betul Balaghat Khawasa Sanctuary Pench Tiger Reserve (National Park) The rock caves are records of ’s footfall in Madhya Pradesh (National Park) Raipur 3 Sirpur Nagpur 6 C H H A T T I S G A R H

Dhamtari

Udanti 7 43 Sanctuary (National Park) M A H A R A S H T R A Bastar Region Kondagaon Nagarnar Chitrakote Falls Bastar Jagdalpur Tokapal Chingitarai 16 Pakhnar Kanger Darbha Valley A N D H R A Kuknar National Park P R A D E S H 4 !0 0 200 km 0 120 miles 38 Best Trips Gwalior 39

Gwalior

Why Go? Famous for its medieval hilltop fort described by Mughal emperor Babur as ‘the pearl amongst fortresses in India’, Gwalior makes an interesting stop en route to some of the better-known destinations in this part of India. The city also houses the elaborate Jai Vilas Palace, the historic seat of the Scindias, one of the most famous royal families of the region.

Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & AROUND are available for hire. Ola cabs can Road travel to Gwalior from the be hired by downloading the app. northern cities is convenient. The When To Go Taj Express Highway upto Agra has Oct–Feb greatly reduced time for travellers from Delhi. Great For

Within the city, cabs (`9–11 per km, min 250km, plus `200 per day driver allowance) and autorickshaws

The 8th-century fort is Gwalior’s towering landmark 40 Best Trips Gwalior 41

1 Sights and town are named. Chaturbhuj Mandir, a 9th-century If You Like: Gwalior Darshan is before the next gate, Hathiya Paur Gwalior Fort (Elephant Gate), is now the entrance MP Tourism’s little yellow bus, Gwalior Darshan, takes passengers on a full- This majestic 8th-century hilltop to the palace grounds (as the last day city tour, taking in all the main sights, including Gwalior Fort and Jai fort overlooks Gwalior. Much of gate, Hawa Gate, no longer exists). Vilas Palace. Enquire at the tourist office at Tansen Residency, where the it is now occupied by the Scindia Sound and light show English, Indian/ tour begins. Minimum eight passengers. School, established by foreigner, children `130/300/60; English %751 2340370; MP Tourism, Tansen Residency; adult/child `155/80 in 1897. A sound 7.30pm, Hindi 6.30pm, winter timings are and light show is held nightly in an hour later the amphitheatre. From the east a Jai Vilas Palace & for his favourite rani, it holds a series of gates lead up to the fort. Scindia Museum large collection of Hindu and Jain Jain Rock Sculptures sculptures, including the famed At the bottom, the first gate is the The museum occupies some 35 Salabhanjika (an exceptionally 17th-century Gwalior Gate (Alamgiri An impressive set of sculptures rooms of the Scindias’ opulent carved female figure), plus copies of Gate) that leads to the State (mid-15th century) are carved into Jai Vilas Palace, built by Maharaja the frescoes. Archaeological Museum. The next is the rock between Urvai Gate and Jayajirao in 1874 using prisoners Badalgarh, named after Badal Singh, the inner fort walls. They represent from the fort. The convicts were Indian/foreigner `10/100, camera/video Man Singh’s uncle. Further up is the figures of (the 24 great tasked with the 12-year job of `50/200; 10am–5pm 15th-century Ganesh Gate. Nearby is Jain teachers). There are more than weaving the hall carpet, one of Kabutar Khana, a pigeon house, and 30 images, including a splendid the largest in Asia. The Durbar Sahastrabahu (Sas-Bahu) a small to the hermit 17m-high standing sculpture of the Hall ceiling has two 12.5m-high, Temples first , Adinath. Gwalipa, after whom both the fort 3.5-tonne chandeliers, each with The Mayan-like Sas-Bahu (a Enter via the fort A pair of crystal chandeliers hanging in the 250 light bulbs – said to be the corruption of Sahastrabahu or Durbar Hall of Jai Vilas Palace largest pair in the world. The rooms thousand armed one) temples, date Man Singh Palace are filled with cut-glass furniture, from the 9th–11th centuries. The big This imperial-style palace, inside stuffed tigers and a ladies-only temple, dedicated to Vishnu, and the the fort, has unusually decorated swimming pool with its own boat. smaller temple, dedicated to , monuments: the outer walls include The cavernous dining room displays are stacked with sculptures. a frieze of yellow ducks. These and a model railway with a silver train Dawn–dusk; entry free mosaic tiles of elephants, tigers and that carried after-dinner brandy and crocodiles in blue, yellow and green cigars around the table. give it an alternative identity. Built by Enter the palace from the west; Indian/ Used as a drinks factory and coffee Tomar ruler Man Singh between 1486 foreigner `75/450, camera/video `70/50; shop by the British after the First and 1516, this is a fine example of 10am–5.30pm Tue–Sun War of Independence in 1857, this early Hindu architecture. The counter 30m-high, 8th-century temple is the has tickets for the ruins of Shah State oldest monument in the compound. Jahan Palace, Karan Palace and other Archaeological Museum The gold-topped gurudwara nearby palaces northwest of the fort. This museum is within Gujari Mahal, is dedicated to Sikh hero Guru Har Indian/foreigner `5/100, video `25; just through Gwalior Gate. Built Gobind, who was imprisoned in Man dawn–dusk in the 15th century by Man Singh Singh Palace from 1617 to 1619. Dawn–dusk; entry free 42 Best Trips Gwalior 43

nearly 130-year-old building was Tansen Residency mpsTdc `` built as a guesthouse for the Snapshot: Mian Tansen %751 4056789; www.mptourism.com; Prince of Wales (later King George 6A Gandhi Rd; d from `2990–4290 (incl The cultural gem from Gwalior is Mian Tansen, the 16th-century musician V). Every room features heritage breakfast & bed tea) A mid-range hotel and composer. Ramtanu Pandey was bestowed the honorific title of luxury – and the villas even come run by MP Tourism, the rooms are maestro or mian by Emperor , and was hailed as one of the nav with their own private pool! There’s modern, with updated bathrooms. ratans or nine gems of the emperor’s court. a gorgeous main pool, the soothing There’s a bar and restaurant and Tansen’s music was a product of the cultural influences of his time. Jiva Spa (massage treatments from the location is central. Don’t skip Hindustani, Persian and Central Asian music, Bhakti and Sufi traditions, `1900), the excellent Silver Saloon the North Indian fare at Malhar, the compositions in Brajbhasa birthed unique gharanas in Hindustani music. restaurant and the spiffing Bada Bar multi-cuisine restaurant in the hotel. Ragas prefixed with Mian, like Mian ki Malhar, Todi, all refer to Tansen’s (beer `415). musical signature and the . Hotel Gwalior Deo Bagh HERITAGE HOTEL ``` Tansen Samaroh (p46) is held in December at Behat village in Gwalior and Regency BUSINESS HOTEL `` is one of India’s oldest music festivals. %751 2820357; www.deo-bagh. %751 2340670; www.hotelregencygroup. Tansen Samadhi Parisar; %8109409002; www.tansensamaroh.com neemranahotels.com; Jadhav Kothi, opp com; Link Rd; d `5600–7400 (incl Janaktal, d `4283–6187 (incl breakfast) breakfast) The Indian business Deo Bagh takes you back to the Tomb of Tansen Ghar Museum hotel offers standard rooms that 17th century, complete with two are perfectly decent, though the Tucked away in the winding lanes The ancestral residence of the Maratha temples within the property central air-conditioning struggles of the old town, and in the same family of sarod maestro itself. Aside from the exemplary to make much of an impact. You compound as the resplendent tomb is now a museum for hospitality, 15 rooms overlooking of Mohammed Gaus, is the smaller, tracing the history of classical music Nau Bagh offer complete solitude to Performers at Tansen Samaroh pay musical simpler tomb of Tansen (see box in Gwalior. unwind after a day’s sightseeing. homage to the 16th-century maestro above), the father of Hindustani Haifz Ali Khan Rd, Jiwaji Ganj; 10am–5pm; classical music. The Tansen Mon closed; entry free Samaroh (p46) is held through day and night in December every year Old City in Gwalior. A pilgrimage for music Stroll by the old city of Gwalior for lovers and artists from across the period structures, including tombs country, it is held where the 16th- of Sufi saints, temples and historic century legend Tansen lies buried. lanes that showcase the past. The 8am–6pm; entry free Bada, a market place in Gwalior is fun, especially during . Rani Lakshmi Bai Samadhi Kila Gate The resting place of the great Bundela warrior, Rani Lakshmi Bai, lies in the 4 middle of a well-manicured park, the Accommodation Phool Bagh. Her statue in black stone stands tall in front of an eternal flame, Usha Kiran exemplifying her valiant image. Palace HERITAGE HOTEL ``` Phool Bagh; dawn–dusk; entry free %751 2444000; www.tajhotels.com; Jayendraganj; d from `6500 This grand, 44 Best Trips Gwalior 45

can pay an extra `700 to `1000 for and Continental dishes, as ‘grande deluxe’ rooms with modern well as some Thai, Nepali and If You Like: Morena gajak furnishings. There’s a bar with DJs Marathi specialities, are served in each night as well. the AC restaurant or the palm- The famous Morena gajak (made of sesame, sugar and ghee) is from the shaded verandah of this exquisite family of Daulatram Gupta, though the proprietor admits that it was from his wife’s home in Morena that he imported this recipe. The 40-year-old Hotel Landmark HOTEL `` heritage hotel. no-fuss shop can arrange for a trip to the factory if one is interested. %751 4011271; www.hotellandmarkgwalior. %751 2327190; Shri Anturam Shivhare Chowk, Naya Sadak, Lakshar; 10am–9pm com; Manik Vilas Colony, close to Railway NORTH Station; d from `3650–9999 (incl breakfast) Moti Mahal Delux INDIAN `` Ideal for business travellers, the Link Rd next to bus stand; mains `170–440; Gajak from Morena is a treat hotel offers swift service, a travel noon–11pm The flavours pop at this desk, reasonably comfortable stylish non-veg Delhi transplant, as and well-lit rooms and an enviable they have done for nearly 100 years. location close to the business centre. They work their special magic on Northwest frontier cuisine. Hotel DM HOTEL ` %751 2342083; Link Rd; d from `600, Kwality with AC from `1500 The rooms are a Restaurant Multi-cuisine `` bit cramped but they are slightly Captain Upamanyu Singh Marg; mains better than the other budget options `250–500; 11am–11pm This is a around town and the wi-fi certainly favourite address for the locals for helps. All have clean bathrooms. generic Indian or Chinese food. The vegetarians tend to veer towards Hotel India HOTEL ` hara bhara kebab and the non-veg %751 2341983; Station Rd; d `1360, with towards murg musallam. AC `2000 Basic rooms and facilities are on offer at this 2nd-floor hotel Volga Multi-cuisine `` across from the train station, where Jayendraganj, Shinde ki Chhawani; mains you’ll have the added advantage `250–500; 11am–11pm Supposedly the of room service from Indian Coffee oldest restaurant in Gwalior, go here Indian House, which owns and operates for a quick meal. 7 Shopping the hotel. Perch yourself on the 2nd- Coffee House SOUTH INDIAN ` floor breezeway looking out on to HQ BAR `` Station Rd; mains `45–250; 7.30am– Mrignayanee handicrafts the street below and watch India run. 10.30pm This popular branch does Hotel Gwalior Regency, Link Rd; minimum Shekh ki bagiya; www.mphandicrafts.com; all the breakfast favourites – coffee, spend `500; 2pm–midnight This small 11am–8pm The state-run emporium dosas, scrambled eggs – and has 5 but trendy bar inside the Gwalior is an easy shopping destination for Eating a main-course menu, including Regency does good cocktails (`250 elegant Chanderi and Maheshwari excellent thalis (`120 to `220), in a Silver Saloon INDIAN ``` to `380) set to choice tunes led by saris and textiles, artefacts, Gond separate 1st-floor family section. art, jewellery, souvenirs and ` a DJ. Usha Kiran Palace, Jayendraganj; mains 500– handicrafts. 1100; 7am–11pm Mouth-watering Indian 46 Best Trips Gwalior 47

Expert Recommendation MP’s cultural festivals

Musician and singer Vidya Shah worked in Madhya Pradesh at the grassroots level. Here she lists some of the prominent music and dance festivals of the state.

Think MP and you think culture. MP is one of the largest states in A festival is held annually in February India and culturally too it matches in this quaint town in the name of up in scale. Over the years it has one of the legends of India, Baba evolved into a rich centre for the Alauddin Khan who taught the likes performing arts including beautiful of Pandit Ravi Shankar and Ustad Ali performance spaces. The Bharat Akbar Khan. If in luck you might also Bhavan in Bhopal and the Khajuraho get to hear the legendary Maihar temples are a beautiful juxtaposition Band that was originally set up for of the traditional and contemporary. the common man way back in 1918. There are several festivals that take The festival may not be peaking in place across the state and most of its glory but the place has a lot of these are a serious and enjoyable historical sanctity. celebration of traditional music and other performing arts. KHAJURAHO

GWALIOR For dance, Khajuraho is a magical experience. The stunning sandstone The Tansen Samaroh (or Festival) carved temples, provide the back- held through day and night, in drop before which the festival takes December every year, in Gwalior, place usually in February. Here you with artists from across the country can witness the performances of is an absolute pilgrimage for the the various traditional dance forms music lover, especially for classical from across India. Entry to the Indian music. Organised where the festival is free. 16th-century legend Tansen lies buried, the festival pays homage to For more details check http://www. the maestro with musicians from all mptourism.com/ over performing.

ManyThe Khajuraho groups in dance Chennai festival take isvisitors a big cultural on heritage draw walks in Madhya Pradesh 48 Best Trips Chanderi 49

Chanderi

Why Go? The proud stone monuments that dot the brown-green scrubland of Chanderi are silent reminders of the heritage of the Bundela and Malwa of the past. The constant clack of looms that weave the gossamer Chanderi fabric across homes breaks the quiet of the town. Textile tradition and a medieval past make Chanderi an interesting stop.

Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & AROUND `2500–3000 one way (depending Train: Lalitpur is the closest railway on the car) from Gwalior to station to Chanderi (100km), which Chanderi. falls on the Delhi–Bhopal Habibganj When To Go Shatabdi route. From here, cabs at Nov–Mar `100 are available for hire to reach the town. Great For

Cab: Gwalior lies 210km from Chanderi. Cabs can be hired at

The delicate handwoven textile is a hallmark of Chanderi 50 Best Trips Chanderi 51

1 Sights Badal Mahal Gate The striking Badal Mahal stands Top Tip: Baolis of Chanderi tall against the backdrop of the fort. Walk around the town and you can spot a number (nearly 1200 of them) of The well-kept hilltop fort was Built by Mahmud Shah Khilji ancient step-wells (baolis), which were most probably constructed in the also known as Kirtidurg, built by in 1450, its well-manicured garden 15th century. The Battisi Baoli, named after the 32 steps that lead down to Raja Kirti Pal in the 11th century. and the tall imposing structure greet its base, is the most famous. The wide courtyard and mixed curious visitors spellbound by its architecture illustrate how beauty. of leprosy. The ancient bone-white Singpur Mahal subsequent rulers – Bundela Dawn–dusk; entry free temple’s reflection looks splendid in The Singpur Mahal was the last Rajputs, and Mughals – left the shimmering water. Morning and their signature imprint. Noteworthy Jama Masjid bastion of the Bundelas and used evening aartis are held here. as the Chanderi museum for a are a tombstone of the 15th-century- Bang in the middle of the city, stands Dawn–dusk; entry free long time by the Madhya Pradesh Dhrupad singer, Baiju Bawara, and the with three prominent government. A large open courtyard Jauhar Smarak. Wind down the domes and a wide prayer courtyard. Shehzadi ka Rauza and jaali work on the walls around southern part of the fort to walk Built by Ghiyasuddin Balban in 1251, still bear testimony to the lively court through the large the elegant structure is a place of A dignified memorial to love, the proceedings or entertainment that (bloody gate), a name derived from prayer and comes alive during Eid. lover’s tomb (1420–35 AD) stands opposite the Parmeshwar taal. once took place in the courtyard. the bloody battles held here. The fort Dawn–dusk; entry free is lit up between 7–8pm every day According to legend, Mehrunissa, Pichor Rd; 10am–5pm; entry free, and is a spectacle to behold. the daughter of the governor, was in camera `25 Lakshman Temple Dawn–dusk; entry free love with the army chief. Her father Legend has it that Kirti Pal, the disapproved and sent his men to Koshak Mahal founder of the town, bathed in a pool kill the chief. The mortally wounded Built by the Sultan of Malwa in the Badal Mahal Gate was built by Sultan Mahmud (Parmeshwar taal) adjoining a temple chief dropped dead at this very spot; 15th century to celebrate victory Shah Khilji to Lord Lakshman and was cured a grief-stricken Mehrunissa rushed over Jaunpur, Koshak Mahal is a to the same place and killed herself grand building. It is a complex made upon seeing her dead paramour. The up of four smaller mahals, in local repentant father built the tomb as a sandstone. Ornamental carvings and commemoration of their love. jaali work can be seen on the walls. Dawn–dusk; entry free Isagrah Rd; dawn–dusk; entry free

Shahi Madarsa Kati Ghati Originally a tomb, the impressive This rock-gate in the southern part stone-clad Shahi Madarsa was of the town is legendary. According converted into a learning centre. The to local folklore, the rock was cut verandahs with intricate jaali-work down overnight by the Emperor on the other three sides amplify its Babur, to make a passageway to beauty. attack Chanderi. A mosque-like Bypass Rd; dawn–dusk; entry free sculpture is hewn on one of the stone walls where the Mughals said 52 Best Trips Chanderi 53

If You Like: Weaving centres Even though Pranpur, on the outskirts of Chanderi, has been developed as an exclusive village for tourists to see the entire process of weaving, one can walk into the lanes of the old part of town and peep into any home to get an idea of the weaving heritage of the town. If interested, visit the NGO, Chanderiyaan (9am–6pm), located in an old historical structure near Raja-Rani Mahal. A double storey facility is dedicated as a skills training sector. The older, Institute of Textile Technology, inaugurated in 1910, is yet another learning and development centre for the Chanderi weavers. Chanderiyaan; %9691280958/9907082823; located close to the Musa Baodi

stands at the end of a long staircase. rooms. The amenities include a Meditation caves perched on top of TV, hot shower, clean bedding and a craggy hillside can be seen from laundry. The in-house restaurant the bottom. (11am–7.30pm) offers reasonably Next to Raja-Rani Mahal; dawn–dusk; entry tasty meals. You can shop for saris at the weaving centres and refused to pay the mason. The free in Chanderi distraught mason committed suicide Hotel Shrikunj HOTEL ` at the same spot over Khan’s broken % their prayers before going to battle. Tomb of Nizam-Uddin 8989616247; near Dak Bungalow; dbl promise. Even today this massive AC/non-AC `1250/600 This new facility The second fable revolves around Few people visit the large complex rock gateway bears no doors. offers clean rooms with en suite Jiman Khan, the son of the then wedged in the middle of the old part bathrooms with hot showers and an Governor of Chanderi, Sher Khan. He Entry free of town. The complex has a number in-house restaurant that looks out had commissioned this gateway and of tombstones dedicated to Saint onto a cheerful lawn. This is a good announced a reward to anyone who Shri Chaubisi Jain Temple Nizam-Uddin and his kin. stop in the centre of town to stay or could cut down the rock soonest. The many Jain shrines in the town Dawn–dusk; entry free even grab a quick meal. A mason agreed to complete the bear testimony to the fact that project overnight. When Khan Chanderi was a major seat of Jain 4 Accommodation & 7 inspected the gate in the morning, culture. The most prominent is the 5 Shopping he found that there were no hinges Shri Chaubisi Jain Temple. A Jain Eating on the rock gateway to install doors, Tirthankara, chiseled out of rock, %7547 253321; Rajghat Rd; 10am–6pm Tana Bana mpstdc ` A number of shops on the Rajghat %7547 252222; www.mptourism.com; Road in Chanderi offer the fruit of its Top Tip: Chanderi Museum Rajghat Rd; dbl deluxe/AC `2290/1990; looms in silk and silk-cotton combos. Run by MP Tourism, Tana Bana is Motamal Handlooms offers a large This well-kept museum displays sculptures and relics from different eras a well-kept facility, with exquisite variety, neatly stacked as per price, of Chanderi’s history. The museum has six galleries. The cut-off stone head Chanderi-themed tiles that run so one can stick to a budget of sari of a Jain Tirthankara and an intricately carved wild boar deserve special along the building, adding a dash of shopping. mention. atmosphere to the otherwise basic Mugawali Rd; 10am–5pm, Fri closed, entry Indian/foreigner `5 54 Best Trips Chanderi 55

tragedy through the eyes of those affected most deeply by it, and yet, Expert Recommendation it’s less about death, destruction and Best books on Madhya Pradesh pain and more about the triumph of the human spirit. Ankita Mukherji is Senior Editor, NDTV and produces and anchors the prime time show News First at 10. Here’s her essential reading list if you’re planning a Animal’s People, Indra Sinha trip to the ‘Heart of India’. The 2007 Booker-shortlisted work of fiction is based on the Bhopal gas tragedy. The book’s narrator is a Jungle Book, Rudyard Kipling Kipling’s magical yet at times flawed 19-year-old orphan affected by the and dangerous landscape. Kipling’s book says Mowgli the gas disaster and is called the Animal. man-cub was reared in the Seonee hills by the wolves but modern day Divine Ecstasy, The Story of Seoni in Madhya Pradesh bears Khajuraho, Shobita Punja Rani Lakshmibai, the Valiant Queen Gond artist Venkat Raman Singh Shyam tells of Jhansi, Deepa Agarwal little resemblance to the Council Khajuraho draws more visitors to the story of his people in this book Rock where Akela held court. But Madhya Pradesh than any other For young travellers, this is the best dig a little deeper and the forests of landmark. Read Shobita Punja’s introduction to one of the bravest Cooking Delights of the , Pench are not that far removed from exhaustively researched Divine women warriors in India’s history–. Digvijaya Singh Ecstasy, The Story of Khajuraho if little Manikarnika, born with a fierce Lip-smacking recipes are interspersed Embossed cover from the original edition of you want to go beyond the glossy sense of her own destiny, became with fascinating anecdotes from the Kipling’s The Jungle Book coffee table books on the subject. the brave Queen of Jhansi fighting royal house of Sailana. Punja weaves a convincing narrative against the British in what would come to be known as the first War of to explain the reason behind the The Waterhouse Albums, The Indian Independence. existence of these erotic sculptures Alkazi Foundation basing her theory on the Shiv Fascinating portraits of the Bhopal Purana. This is art history at its most Finding My Way, Venkat Raman begums, that rare lineage of women compelling. Singh Shyam and S. Anand rulers, in one of the earliest photo Gond artist Venkat Raman Singh albums from this part of the world. Five Past Midnight in Bhopal, Shyam’s wonderful book transports Dominique Lapierre and Javier the reader to the forests of Central Yogini Cult and Temples, Vidhya Moro India among a people we rarely hear Dehejia, for the National Museum Bhopal is very far removed from about. Discover the longstanding Imagine a cult of women who could the dusty, congested middle Indian heritage of tales and legends of the fly, would partner with 64 men at town one expects. It’s serene lakes Gondi tribals and the vivid colours the same time, and were the terror and surrounding hills might make and creatures that populate their of everyone around them. The you forget that it was also the site world. This is a volume to cherish temples are almost all in MP and of the world’s deadliest industrial long after your holiday is over. the Khajuraho brand of Tantrism is disaster. Five Past Midnight in Bhopal closely linked. chronicles the Union Carbide gas Many groups in Chennai take visitors on heritage walks 56 Best Trips Orchha 57

Orchha

Why Go? On the banks of the boulder-strewn Betwa River, Orchha is a supreme showcase of Mughal architecture, stunning 16th-century temples and grander palaces and cenotaphs dotting the pastoral landscape as well. The atmosphere in Orchha is laid-back which makes for a relaxing stay.

Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & AROUND the city, but most people walk or The closest airport from Orchha is cycle (`50/day) to get around. Gwalior (124km/3hours) but the When To Go best way is by train from Jhansi. By Oct–Feb; just after the monsoon for road, take a cab (approx `4000– rafting. 4500 return or `9–11/km, minimum 250km/day plus driver allowance of Great For `200 per day). Autorickshaws are available within

Cenotaphs and imposing palaces dot the skyline in Orchha 58 Best Trips Orchha 59

1 Sights are the smaller Rai Praveen Mahal (9am–5pm), a pavilion and Top Tip: Combined ticket formal Mughal garden, and Khana Palaces Hammam (dawn–dusk), with some The combined ticket (Indian/foreigner `10/250, camera/video `25/100) Crossing the granite bridge from the fine vaulted ceilings. On the other covers Jehangir Mahal, Raja Mahal, Rai Praveen Mahal, the camel stables, village centre brings you to a fortified side of the village, Palki Mahal the , Chaturbhuj Temple and Lakshmi Narayan Temple and is sold complex dominated by two imposing (9am–6pm) was the palace of only at the ticket office (8am–5pm) at Raja Mahal. 17th-century palaces – Jehangir Dinman Hardol (the son of Bir Singh Mahal and Raja Mahal. Deo), who committed suicide as 9am–1pm & 7–11pm Oct–Mar, 8am–1pm & Amar Mahal HOTEL ``` Jehangir Mahal (dawn–dusk), of he was accused of having an affair 8–11pm Apr–Sep %7680 252102; www.amarmahal.com; s/d steep staircases and precipitous with his brother’s wife. His memorial from `4600/5600, ste `9900 Kick your walkways, represents a zenith of is in the adjacent Phool Bagh Chaturbhuj Temple feet up like a maharaja in rooms medieval with (9am–6pm), a traditional charbagh Ram Raja is overlooked by the featuring lovely wood-carved four- Hindu sculptural elements. Behind (formal Persian garden, divided into spectacular towers of Chaturbhuj poster beds set around a gorgeous the palace, sturdy camel stables quarters). Prince Hardol is venerated Temple, an immensely solid building. courtyard with white pillar verandahs (dawn–dusk) overlook a green as a folk hero here. Buy a cheap torch from the bazaar or the large pool. There’s an landscape dotted with monuments. Sound and light show (Raja Mahal; Indian/ and climb the internal stairs to the Ayurvedic massage and yoga centre It also serves as a wedding foreigner `130/300; in English 7.30pm, in roof where, from among the mossy beside the pool (which non-guests destination. In the nearby Raja Hindi 6.30pm) spires and domes, you get the best can use for `300). This is probably Mahal, the caretaker will open the view in town. Orchha’s most luxurious stay. painted rooms where Rama, Chhatris and Orchha royalty wrestle, hunt, 9am–5pm; entry free fight and dance across the walls and Cenotaphs to Orchha’s rulers, Bundelkhand Riverside HOTEL `` ceilings. including Bir Singh Deo, are in Lakshmi Narayan Temple %7680 252612; www.bundelkhandriverside. the form of immense and serene Downhill from the palace compound, Lakshmi Narayan Temple, on the com; s/d `2990/3990 Owned by the chhatris that rise beside the river road out to Ganj village, has fine grandson of Orchha’s last king, about a kilometre south of the rooftop views and well-preserved Vir Singh, this hotel has antique- Pavilions and sculpted halls embellish village. They’re best seen at dusk, murals on the ceilings of its domed style furniture and some of the Orchha’s palaces when cinematic sunsets drop across towers. maharaja’s personal art collection the Betwa River for photo ops. 9am–5pm; entry free displayed in the corridors. Exquisite 9am–5.30pm; entry free rooms overlook either the river or the graceful gardens, which contain Ram Raja Temple 4 Accommodation some 16th-century monuments At the centre of a lively square is the as well as a small swimming pool Ram Raja Temple. Built as a palace The (non-guests `250). Cheaper cabins for Madhukar Shah’s wife, legend Orchha Palace HOTEL` `` overlook the river but lack air-con. has it that a temple was built when %9516006201; www.orchhapalace.com; One of Orchha’s best restaurants, an idol of Lord Rama, temporarily Swant ; delux `6490, d `4500 (off Turquoise Diner, is here as well. installed by the rani, proved season) onwards Comfy and spacious impossible to move. Don’t miss the interiors, in-house restaurants and The Orchha Resort HOTEL `` evening aarti at 8pm and the change amenities make this a good pick and %9927188882; www.orchharesort.com; of guard ceremony. a destination wedding venue too. Kanchanaghat 1; tent s/d `2250/2750, room 60 Best Trips Orchha 61

s/d `3650/4250 onwards In tune with gorgeous too, with regal touches the heritage vibe of the town, this such as throne-like toilets. If You Like: Seondha Fort resort offers large ornate rooms and Ditch the usual and stay for a couple of nights in the 400-year old historic Swiss tents, right by the river. Notch Betwa Retreat mpstdc `` Seondha Fort (67km, north of Orchha). Enroute, halt at the Ratangarh up the luxury by using the in-house %7680 252618; www.mptourism.com; tents/ spa and swimming pool. Mata temple, which seems to work miracles on snake-bite victims, and the cottages `2590/2590, ste `3990 onwards that Ahilya Bai built for her father-in-law. The lady of the palace, This MPSTDC property, overlooking Mrs. Uma Kumari, is great company and will ensure that nothing disturbs Hotel the river with views of the chhatris, you from the copious amount of relaxation that lies in store here. Sheesh Mahal mpstdc `` makes an excellent family choice and %8146653511; Seondha; d `3000 full board %7680 252624; www.mptourism.com; a wedding destination. With TVs and Jehangir Mahal; s/d `1790/2590, ste `3990 minibars, the rooms are comfy. See if onwards This palatial hotel is located you can spring for the heritage suite, Hotel Laxmi run hotel offer Indian, Chinese and in a wing of Jehangir Mahal. The built within a 17th-century changing Temple View HOTEL ` Continental dishes. The Indian dishes (especially tandoori items) surrounding architecture is stunning room surrounded by a large, Lakshmi Narayan Temple Rd; s/d `600/800, are recommended. – arches, columns, lattice windows beautifully manicured lawn. with AC `1200/1400 If you don’t mind – and the rooms themselves are being a little on the outskirts of the INDIAN ` action, this 10-room guesthouse on Betwa Tarang the road to Laxmi Narayan Temple Jehangir Mahal Rd; mains `80–180; Detour: Datia offers the best budget rooms in 8am–10pm This budget place does town with spacious, freshly tiled excellent pure-veg food– the thalis Located 49km north of Orchha, Datia is a small town that represents the bathrooms and flat-screen TVs. (`130–`200) are particularly good. architectural genius of the Bundelas. The Peetambra Peeth (one of the True to its name, the rooftop affords It also has the attraction of a rooftop shaktipeeths of the country), Beer Singh Deo Mahal, Rajgarh Palace and memorable views of the temple. terrace, where you can sit and enjoy the Datia chhatris (tombstones of the royal family) are worth your while. All stupendous views of Jehangir Mahal. of this can be covered in a day’s time. Monarch Rama HOTEL ` Beers are off menu but available. %7680 252015; Jhansi Rd; s/d `400/500, The chhatris at Datia showcase Bundela architecture with AC `900/1250 Rave traveller Ram Raja reviews about value here are not Restaurant INDIAN ` unfounded. The basic rooms on offer Jehangir Mahal Rd; mains `60–320; are cleaner and more affordable 7am–11.30pm No hygiene awards than the competition and the staff is here, but this friendly, family-run friendly and accommodating. street side restaurant offers eggy breakfasts, tasty vegetarian fare and 5 a decent espresso under the shade Eating & of a large tree. 6 Nightlife Bhola Restaurant INDIAN ` INDIAN `` Jharokha Restaurant Jehangir Mahal & Tikamgarh Rd; mains Hotel Sheesh Mahal; mains `110–380; `50–100; 7.30am–10pm A great spot for 7am–10pm Good food, cold beer and people-watching and fresh juices. friendly waiters at this government- 62 Best Trips Orchha 63

Expert Recommendation Get the best photos

Sanjoy Ghosh is one of India’s leading photographers whose assignments have taken him across India and abroad. Here are his tips to get the best photos from your travels across Madhya Pradesh.

KHAJURAHO, SANCHI, pictures of interesting people and GWALIOR & UJJAIN panoramas. The live dance or music Madhya Pradesh offers a stunning performances during the cultural range of architecture which makes festive season in Khajuraho or the for good images for your album. You Tansen Samaroh (p42) in Gwalior are in luck if you pick a good sunny make for dramatic images. The day to visit the monuments across Kumbh Mela (p114), that is held these cities, as the natural light will every 12 years in Ujjain, is a riot pick out the chiselled marvels of of people, action, festivity and the sculptures, cupolas and pillars. interesting images. Monuments like the temples in Khajuraho (p66) are lit up at night KANHA, BANDHAVGARH, PENCH, for some moody vignettes. The PANNA & SANJAY stupas in Sanchi (p94) and the sculpted Buddhist relics make for The state’s best pictures are of its heritage keepsake images. Madhya wildlife, especially the tiger. Across Pradesh’s towering forts and palaces the sanctuaries and wildlife parks, of the former kingdoms of Gwalior the light, speed and angle for taking like the main fort (p40), Jai Vilas pictures cannot be predetermined Palace (p41) and Sun Temple make and depend on your luck and a for arresting images. little waiting. A safari on a vehicle may yield good sightings and you have to be quick to get the best FESTIVALS & CULTURAL EVENTS that you can when a tiger ambles These are seasonal images. If across your path during a visit to the you end up in Madhya Pradesh many parks. Keep your eyes peeled during the festival season, you for other creatures that can offer can be sure to come back with interesting photo ops as well.

ManyThe wildlife groups in inMadhya Chennai Pradesh’s take visitors national on heritage parks offers walks many photo opportunities 64 Best Trips Khajuraho 65

Khajuraho

Why Go? The erotic carvings that swathe Khajuraho’s three groups of UNESCO World Heritage Site-listed temples are among the finest temple art in the world. The Western Group of temples, in particular, contains some stunning sculptures. Legend has it that Khajuraho was founded by Chandravarman, the son of the moon god Chandra, who descended and saw a beautiful maiden as she bathed in a stream. Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & AROUND train station (`300) and Direct flights from Delhi are (`800). available. Khajuraho is small enough When To Go to move around in autorickshaws. Oct–Feb Cabs cost `9–11 per km (minimum 250 km per day, plus `200 for driver Great For allowance). Yashowaran Taxi Driver Union is opposite Gole Market. Fares include all taxes and tolls: airport (`300),

The Parsvanath Temple is the largest in the Jain enclosure in Khajuraho 66 Best Trips Khajuraho 67

1 Sights Western Group Temples Snapshot: History Temples Khajuraho’s most striking, best- Most of the 85 original temples (of which some 20 remain) were built from The temples are superb examples preserved temples are those within 950 to 1050 AD under the Chandela dynasty. The wider world remained of Indo-Aryan architecture, but it’s the fenced-off section of the Western largely ignorant of their existence until British officer TS Burt was their liberally embellished carvings Group and are the only temples you apparently guided to the ruins by his palanquin bearers in 1838. that have made Khajuraho famous. need to pay to see. Indian/foreigner `30/500, video `25; dawn– Around the outsides of the temples architecture. It also has the most dusk An Archaeological Survey of India Temple are bands of exceedingly artistic representations of female beauty (ASI) guidebook to Khajuraho (`60) and a The large Lakshmana Temple took stonework showing a storyboard and sexual acrobatics. There are 872 1½-hour audio guide (`100) are available at 20 years to build and was completed of life a millennium ago – gods, statues, most nearly 1m high – taller the ticket office. Officially licensed guides in about 954 AD during the reign of goddesses, warriors, musicians, than those at the other temples. One cost `1190/1508 for a half-/full day, plus , according to an inscribed and real and mythological animals. frequently photographed sculpture `476/635 for languages other than English slab in the mandapa (pillared Sensuous, posturing surasundaris illustrates the feasibility of the or Hindi. pavilion in front of a temple). This (heavenly nymphs), handstand position. The 31m-high (dancing nymphs) and nayikas A nightly sound and light show is arguably the best preserved of all the Khajuraho temples. here is like a linga. It’s (heroines) have been carved as sees techni-colour floodlights decorated with 84 subsidiary spires, You’ll see carvings of battalions of playful figures dancing and swirling sweep across the temples of the which make up a mountain-like soldiers here. More sensuous figures out from the temple. The mithuna Western Group as Indian classical rooftop scene reminiscent of the intertwine between the elephants (erotic poses) display the dexterity music soundtracks a potted history Himalayan abode of the gods. of the sculptors. of Khajuraho. Photography is in the frieze ringing the basement, while some superb carvings can be prohibited. Mahadeva Temple The artistic talent of the Chandelas are best Indian/foreigner/child `250/700/120; found around the (inner Mahadeva, a small ruined temple found in Khajuraho English 7.40pm, Hindi 6.30pm sanctum). Lakshmana is dedicated to Vishnu, although it’s similar on the same platform as Kandariya in design to the Shiva temples – Mahadev and Devi Jagadamba, is Vishvanath and Kandariya Mahadev. dedicated to Shiva, who is carved on , dedicated to Vishnu’s boar the lintel of its doorway. It houses incarnation, and the locked Lakshmi one of Khajuraho’s finest sculptures are two small shrines facing the – a sardula (mythical beast – part large Lakshmana Temple. Inside lion, part other animal – possibly Varaha is a wonderful, 1.5m-high human) caressing a woman. sandstone boar, dating from 900 AD and meticulously carved with a Devi Jagadamba Temple pantheon of gods. Devi Jagadamba was originally dedicated to Vishnu, but later to Kandariya Mahadev Temple and then Kali. The carvings The 30.5m-long Kandariya Mahadev, include sardulas accompanied by built between 1025 and 1050 AD is Vishnu, surasundaris, and mithunas the largest temple and represents frolicking in the third uppermost the high point of Chandela band. Its three-part design is simpler 68 Best Trips Khajuraho 69

If You Like: Old village temples

The Eastern Group includes three named, but the image of Vishnu Hindu temples scattered around above the sanctum doorway the old village and four Jain reveals its original dedication to temples further south. All temples Vishnu. are open from dawn to dusk. Javari Temple Temple Javari Temple (1075–1100 AD) The temple contains a 2.5m-tall stands just north of the old village. statue of Hanuman. It’s little more This is dedicated to Vishnu and than a bright orange shrine, but is a good example of small-scale the interest is in the pedestal Khajuraho architecture with its inscription dating to 922 AD, the crocodile-covered entrance and oldest dateable inscription in slender shikhara. Khajuraho. Vamana Temple Temple The Vamana Temple (1050–1075 than the Kandariya Mahadev and Sculpted torans adorn the temple’s main The granite Brahma Temple, with AD), 200m further north of Javari Chitragupta temples. gateway in perfect symmetry its sandstone shikhara overlooking Temple, is dedicated to the dwarf Narora Sagar, is one of the oldest in incarnation of Vishnu. It has Chitragupta Temple small temple originally dedicated Khajuraho, dating from about 900 quirky touches such as elephants to Vishnu and now with an image of North of Devi Jagadamba, AD. The four-faced in the protruding from the walls and there Gauri riding a godha (iguana). Chitragupta (1000–1025 AD) is sanctum led to it being incorrectly are a few erotic scenes. unique in Khajuraho – and rare Vishvanath Temple among North Indian temples – in Matangesvara Temple Chausath Yogini Temple being dedicated to the sun god Believed to have been built in 1002 AD, the Vishvanath Temple is Skirting the southern boundary of The ruins of Chausath Yogini, . It has some fine carvings of the fenced enclosure, Matangesvara beyond Shiv Sagar, date to the late apsaras and surasundaris, elephant reached by steps on the northern and southern sides. Elephants flank is the only temple in the Western 9th century and are probably the fights and hunting scenes, mithunas Group still in everyday use. It may be oldest in Khajuraho. Constructed and a procession of stone-carriers. the southern steps. Vishvanath is another superlative example the plainest temple here (suggesting entirely of granite, it’s the only In the inner sanctum, Surya drives an early construction), but inside it temple not aligned east to west. his seven-horse chariot, while in the of Chandela’s architecture. Its sculptures include sensuous sports a polished 2.5m-high lingam The temple’s name means 64 – it central niche on the south facade (phallic image of Shiva). From its once had 64 cells for the yoginis is an 11-headed statue of Vishnu, surasundaris writing letters, cuddling babies and playing music. platform you can peer into an open- (female attendants) of Kali, while the representing his 10 incarnations. air storage facility scattered with 65th sheltered the goddess herself. At the other end of the platform, a temple finds, but it’s not open to the It’s reputedly India’s oldest yogini 2.2m-long statue of , Shiva’s Parvati Temple public. temple. bull vehicle, faces the temple. The Continuing around the enclosure basement of the 12-pillared shrine is from Chitragupta, the closed-up decorated with an elephant frieze. Parvati Temple is on your right, a 70 Best Trips Khajuraho 71

Eastern Group Temples Adinath Temple Adjacent to Parsvanath Temple, the Parsvanath Temple smaller Adinath has been partially While not competing in size and restored over the centuries. With erotica with the western-enclosure fine carvings on its three bands of temples, Parsvanath Temple, the sculptures, it’s similar to Khajuraho’s largest of the Jain temples in the Hindu temples, particularly Vamana. walled enclosure, is notable for Only the striking black image in the exceptional precision of its the inner sanctum triggers a Jain construction as well as for its reminder. sculptural beauty. Some of the best preserved of Khajuraho’s most Shanti Nath Temple famous images can be seen here, including the woman removing a Shanti Nath, built about a century thorn from her foot and another ago, houses components from older applying eye make-up, both on the temples, including a 4.5m-high southern side. Adinath statue with a plastered-over Although the temple was originally inscription on the pedestal dating to dedicated to Adinath, a jet-black about 1027 AD. image of Parsvanath was substituted south of the Jain enclosure. This Perfect symmetry marks the structures about a century ago. Both an is the youngest temple, dating to at Khajuraho Southern Group inscription on the mahamandapa 1100–1150 AD. Its relatively wooden, dedicated to Shiva (judging by doorway and its similarities with the Temples repetitious sculptures, such as those the white marble lingam at the slightly simpler Lakshmana Temple of Shiva, suggest that Khajuraho’s apex of the mound). Although date it to 950–970 AD. Duladeo Temple temple builders had passed their there are some exquisitely carved Women gather to offer prayers at the A dirt track runs to the isolated artistic peak by this point, although figures, unfinished carvings were Chausath Yogini Temple Duladeo Temple, about 1km they had certainly lost none of their zeal for eroticism. also excavated, suggesting that what would have been Khajuraho’s largest temple, was abandoned as Chaturbhuja Temple resources flagged. The ruined Chaturbhuja Temple has a fine 2.7m-high, four-armed statue of Vishnu in the sanctum. It is Other Sights Khajuraho’s only developed temple without erotic sculptures. Raneh Falls The 30m-high Raneh Falls is a Bijamandala Temple worthwhile nature excursion, 18km Just before Chaturbhuja there’s a from Khajuraho, if it has just rained. signed track leading to Bijamandala The cascading falls are located on Temple. This is the excavated River Ken with falls of varying levels mound of an 11th-century temple, that make for an impressive sight. 72 Best Trips Khajuraho 73

hotel, tucked away off a quiet dirt Hotel Zen HOTEL ` road in a far more pastoral village %7686 274228; www.hotlzenkhajuraho. than Khajuraho’s main drag, is a star. co.in; Jain Temples Rd; d/tr `500/600, Sparkling-clean rooms are spacious, with AC `1000–1300 (incl breakfast) A varying according to view (garden or popular backpacker hang-out. The sunrise), all with sizeable bathrooms upstairs rooms are the brightest and and comfortable furnishings (the overlook a series of courtyards with `1500 non-ACs feel like a steal). lotus ponds, winter bonfires, candles Surendra, the manager, is delightful flickering at night and a decent and takes his family’s hospitality restaurant. Rooms have cable TV. business very seriously (as he does his great masala chai). You could eat Osaka Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE ` off the floor in the stylish restaurant, which offers sunset views, as does %7686 272839; off Basti Rd; `500–600, the extraordinary rooftop terrace with AC `1000–1200 Spacious rooms which is the best by far in town and here are pretty basic but have a candlelit for romantic dinners. homey feel to them. The owner and family are very welcoming, and there Archaeological Museum Raneh Falls on the River Ken is a good day Hotel Harmony HOTEL ` are some nice temple views from the The Archaeological Museum, trip from Khajuraho %7686 274135; www.hotelharmonyonline. announced by a wonderful 11th- bargaining at any time of year. The Lalit Temple View offers five-star com; Jain Temples Rd; s/d `800/1000, with century statue of Ganesh dancing Hotel staff are more than happy to luxury amenities AC `1200/1500 Cosy, well-equipped sensuously, has a small but well- organise tours and travel. presented collection of sculptures rooms off marble corridors are from around Khajuraho. tastefully decorated and come with Lalit Temple View HOTEL ``` mostly effective mosquito screens Main Rd; entry free with same-day Western %7686 272111; www.thelalit.com; Main and cable TV. Great food is available Group ticket; 9am–5pm Sat–Thu Rd; r from `8570, with temple view `14,080 at the Zorba the Buddha restaurant Sweeps aside all other five-star and you can eat under the stars on Tribal Art Museum pretenders with supreme luxury, the rooftop. Wi-fi is charged per day. The Tribal & Folk Art Museum gives a impeccable service and high prices. taste of Madhya Pradesh’s vibrant tribal Rooms are immaculate with large- Hotel Surya HOTEL ` culture through paintings, terracotta screen TVs, wood-carved furniture %7686 274144; www.hotelsuryakhajuraho. sculptures, masks and statues. and tasteful artwork. If you’re not com; Jain Temples Rd; d `400–1000, fussed about temple views, it has a Chandela Cultural Complex; 12noon–8pm; with AC `800–1600 There’s quite a block of ‘budget’ rooms hidden away Open all days, except Mondays and range of rooms in this sprawling, from the main grounds – all the government holidays well-run hotel with whitewashed same amenities for half the price. corridors, marble staircases and a 4 Accommodation lovely courtyard garden out back. Hotel Isabel Palace HOTEL `` Some rooms have TV. Some have Hefty discounts (20% to 50%) are %7686 274770; www.hotelisabelpalace. balconies. Yoga, massage, cycling available out of season (April to com; Temple Rd; r from `1500, with AC tours and cooking classes are September), although it’s worth `2250–2800 (incl breakfast) This newish available. Wi-fi costs` 50 per day. 74 Best Trips Khajuraho 75

Agrasen Multi-cuisine `` If You Like: Jain Temples Rd; thalis `130–380; 7am– MPSTDC hotels 10.30pm While perhaps not India’s best, the thalis at this other­wise MPSTDC offers comfortable and unthrilling restaurant are extremely budget-friendly accommodation good and come with perhaps the options in Khajuraho. best dal fry in the country. The fact • Hotel Jhankar that it tends to fill nightly with locals, not tourists, speaks volumes. %7686 274063; www.mpstdc.com; Dist A 1st-floor terrace is lit up nicely Chattarpur; r from `2290 after dark. • Hotel Payal %7686 274064; www.mpstdc.com; Dist Mediterraneo ITALIAN `` Chattarpur; r from `1990, with AC `2590 Jain Temples Rd; mains `200–440, pizza • Tourist Village `350–460; 7.30am–10pm Far removed %7686 274062; www.mpstdc.com; 43 from its Italian roots, Mediterraneo Tulsi Vihar Bag Sevania; r from `2290 manages acceptable Italian fare served on a lovely terrace overlooking the street. Dishes uthapam, thali – as well as coffee Khajuraho’s restaurants offer pizzas and other rooftop. It’s set away from the main include chicken, salads, organic (Madras style with chicory) and multi-cuisine options street so is quieter than elsewhere. whole wheat pasta and surprisingly chai, served in a narrow cafe. Ideal souvenirs and handicrafts. It has good wood-fired pizzas. Beer and for breakfast. The unique house a non-bargaining policy. The shop 5 Eating wine are also available. speciality is the tasty egg, cheese and veg dosa (`200). is located at the Madhya Pradesh Tourism office. Raja’s Cafe Multi-cuisine `` Blue Sky Lassi Corner INDIAN ` www.rajacafe.com; Main Rd; mains `140– Restaurant Multi-cuisine `` Kandariya Art Jain Temples Rd; meals `15–60, lassis `15– 380; 8am–10pm Raja’s has been at Main Rd; mains `80–260, tree house per & Culture HANDICRAFTS the top of its game for more than 35 person `50; 7am–10.30pm An ordinary 45; 9am–9.30pm This tarpaulin-covered %7686 274031; Jhansi Rd; 9am–9pm years, with espresso coffee, English restaurant with an extraordinary bamboo shack is a great place for a A huge emporium where full-size breakfasts, wood-fired pizzas, seating arrangement: a rickety quick chai break, lazy lassi, breakfast replicas of some of Khajuraho’s superb Indian, Italian and Chinese wooden platform, three storeys up, and simple Indian fare. temple carvings can be bought dishes, and an otherwise eclectic leading out to the most unusual – if you have a spare `10,000 menu full of things you might place to eat in Khajuraho – a one- 7 Shopping to `1,000,000! Smaller, more miss, depending on your passport table tree house with an unrivalled affordable versions, along with (rosti, fish and chips, lasagna). The view of the western temples. Mrignayanee HANDICRAFTS textiles, wood carvings and marble location, with a temple-view terrace, % inlay, can be found indoors. is great, as is the restaurant design, 7686 274233; Opp Lalit Hotel, Temple Madras Nightly one-hour folk-dancing with a delightful courtyard shaded Road (Western temples) The state-run Coffee House SOUTH INDIAN ` performances (`550) can be seen at by a 170-year-old neem tree. But it’s emporium is an easy shopping Main & Jain Temples Rds; mains `50–200; the comfortable indoor theatre here, the food that steals the show. Wi-fi destination for elegant Chanderi 8.30am–9.30pm Three generations of starting at 8pm and 9.45pm. downstairs only. and Maheshwari saris and textiles, tasty South Indian fare – dosa, idli, artefacts, Gond art, jewellery, 76 Best Trips Khajuraho 77

BUNDELI BHOPALI Expert Recommendation Nestling between the mountainous The lakes and hilly terrain of Bhopal terrain of the Vindhyas and the Indo and its Hindu and Muslim population Cuisine from Central India Gangetic plain, Bundelkhand offers a have influenced its cuisine. Seekh clay-pot cooked sparse cuisine that kebab, keema and other mutton Pushpraj Singh Judeo, head of the royal family of reflects its Hindu and Jain past. dishes are a nod to Bhopal’s royal Rewa, is a foodie. He lists his favourite dishes from the feasting traditions. four culinary regions of Madhya Pradesh. Thadula: Rice, dal and wheat flour are ground to make a dough spiced Biryani pulao: Cream, ghee, with coriander, ginger, garlic and flavoursome spices, combined with MALWA BAGHELKHAND (VINDHYA) chilli paste and rolled into puris and chunky pieces of meat, make for Black soil and proximity to Baghel or the lair of the white tiger deep fried. this aromatic biryani. While mutton and Maharashtra add has red and black soil and the rocky is preferred, modern versions use the groundnuts, coconuts and terrain of the Vindhyas. Chickpeas Gulgula: This is a sweet dish using chicken too in the biryani. Keema or sweetness to the dishes. and maize are popular, as are wheat flour, dry ginger and chironji mince pulao is also popular. mutton dishes. mixed with jaggery and deep fried Dal Bati & Churma: Dal (lentils), and floated in sugar syrup. Bafla: This maida or wheat cake with urad or arhar, are mixed with curry Indrahaar: This is a mixed dal a generous dollop of ghee makes for leaves, mustard, methi seeds and a preparation using urad, chana, arhar, a tasty accompaniment with dal. little sugar. The dough is shaped into moong and masoor, tempered with balls and smoked on hot coals or red chillies, curry leaves, mustard steamed and is served with jaggery seeds and curd. The dal is ground or panjeeri, a crunchy mix of wheat and fermented and cut into slabs, flour, sugar and jaggery. deep fried and served with chat masala. It is eaten as an appetiser or Poha: Poha now can be called a a snack with tea; or floated in a gravy staple breakfast of Madhya Pradesh. of gram flour and curd. It gets its In Malwa, they keep it simple. name from the food of god Indra and Cooked rice flakes tempered with the royals of the region were known mustard seeds, turmeric, curry to freely partake of this. leaves, onions and boiled or lightly fried potatoes with a dash of sugar. Sone ki machhi: A saur is marinated Sev and pomegranate are often and coated in a paste of green added as dressings. chillies, coriander, ginger, garlic and peanuts and grated coconut. Imarti with milk: This favourite The pieces are steamed in a wrap dessert from Malwa is jalebi soaked of chiula leaves and served with in sugar syrup and dipped in milk chutney. with cream. It is both a breakfast and dinner delight. ManyJalebis groups for breakfast in Chennai offer take a sweet visitors start on to heritage the day walks 78 Best Trips Bhopal 79

Bhopal

Why Go? Bhopal offers two starkly contrasting cityscapes. In the north is the Muslim-dominated old city of mosques and crowded bazaars. The south has modern shopping complexes and upmarket hotels and restaurants nestled comfortably in the Arera and Shamla Hills. Both offer quiet surprises for the traveller.

Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & AROUND `1800 onwards, longer trips `9–11 Air India and Jet Airways fly daily per km (min 250km/day) plus `200 from Delhi and Mumbai. Airport to driver allowance/day) city costs `300 by autorickshaw; When To Go `800 by taxi. The New Delhi-Bhopal Habibganj Shatabdi Express/12002 Oct–Feb is a convenient train. Inside the Great For city, autorickshaws charge by conjecture. Try Ola cabs (get the app); else, try a cab service MP Tour and Travels, Vikas Singh Baghel; www.mptourandtravels.com; %9584003002; day trips from

The Jama Masjid in Bhopal was built in the 19th century 80 Best Trips Bhopal 81

1 Sights anthropological museum. Museum of Man; www.igrms.com; Shamla If You Like: Bhopal on wheels Hills; Indian/foreigner `10/500, video `50; Tribal Museum A guided tour on an open bus departs from Palash Residency and winds 10am–5pm Tue–Sun Nov–Feb, 11am–6pm Step into this well-kept museum through the hills and the old city. Stops include Lakshmi Narayan Temple, Mar–Sep dedicated to the seven tribes and MP Tourism Boat Club and Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya. sub-tribes of Madhya Pradesh. %755 3295040; 3½hr tour `100; 11am–5pm Tue–Sun Opened in 2013, the artistic space State Museum was built by 1500 tribals using local This first-class archaeological still incomplete after funds had materials from their villages. The museum spread over 17 galleries Dhai Seedi Ki Masjid been diverted to other projects, stunning results are divided into five includes some wonderful temple Bhopal’s oldest and teeniest mosque and construction did not resume galleries featuring hyper-examples sculptures as well as 87 Jain bronzes is inside the grounds of Hamidia until 1971. Fortress-like terracotta of tribal life. There’s also a very unearthed by a surprised farmer in Hospital. The prayer hall is really walls surround three gleaming white interesting museum shop. western Madhya Pradesh. Keep an small, about 16sq m and the mosque domes and a pair of towering pink eye out for the tiny, but remarkably was built some 400 years ago. Shamla Hills; Indian/foreigner `10/100, minarets with white domes. From animated, metal carpet seller in the Kohefiza; dawn–dusk camera `50; noon–8pm Tue–Sun Hamidia Rd to Taj-ul-Masajid, an Royal Art Gallery. autorickshaw costs `40. Shamla Hills; Indian/foreigner `10/100, Gol Ghar Rashtriya Noon–3pm Fri Manav Sangrahalaya camera/video `50/200; 10.30am–5.30pm Originally, Gulshan-e-Alam, this relic Tue–Sun Do drop in to this place, a kind of Jama Masjid from the reign of Nawab tribal safari park spread out over an Begum (1868–1901) is now named Taj-ul-Masajid The gold spikes crowning the squat Gol Ghar. The circular building was open-air hillside complex that was a minarets of the Jama Masjid, built In 1877, Bhopal’s third female ruler, inaugurated in 2013 as a monument prehistoric settlement and is now an in 1837 by Qudsia Begum, glint Shah Jahan Begum set about that is now open to the public. Crane serenely above the skull caps and The metal carpet seller displayed at the building Taj-ul-Masajid, one of the your neck to see the ornate dome, veils swirling through the bazaar Royal Art Gallery largest mosques in the city. It was swathed with colourful flowers below. and motifs. The Jannat Bagh that Chowk Bazaar Rd; dawn–dusk surrounds the structure tempers the bright colours of the Gohar Mahal Gol Ghar. Formerly the structure This is another architectural gem was first the office of the Nawab and by Qudsia Begum who built this later an aviary. It is said that gold sprawling palace in 1820 and is threads lay strewn around so that said to have resided here. It was the birds could weave their nests named after her as Gauhar or Gohar, here. One such nest was presented colloquially. It is a fine example of to Queen Victoria. Hindu and Islamic architectural Aali Manzil Rd; 10am–5pm elements. The venue hosts sales of handicrafts and textiles too . MP Tourism Boat Club Behind Shaukat Mahal, Upper Lake The club offers motorboat rides (`210, five minutes, minimum three 82 Best Trips Bhopal 83

Snapshot: Bhopal gas tragedy

At five minutes past midnight on using yoga, ayurvedic treatments, 3 December 1984, 40 tonnes of conventional medicine and herbal deadly methyl isocyanate (MIC) remedies. Volunteers and visitors gas leaked out over Bhopal from are welcome and donations can the US-owned Union Carbide be made. If walking from Hamidia chemical plant. Blown by the wind, Road, turn right after about 500m a 40-foot wall of toxic cloud hugged and ask for Sambhavna. the ground and coursed through The the city. (www.rememberbhopal.net; There were 5295 initial fatalities HIG 22, Housing Board Colony, according to official figures, but the continuing death toll stands Rd, near Triveni Heights; at over 25,000. The charity 10am–5pm Tue–Sun) opened in people), pedal boats (`60 per boat, Bhopal’s Upper Lake offers water sports for Sambhavna Trust Clinic (%755 2014 near the now-derelict Union 30 minutes), jet skiing (`400 per recreation 2730904; www.bhopal.org; Berasia Carbide factory site, preserving the person) and even parasailing (`500). %9303090998; Lane no. 2, Kamla Park; Rd, Bafna Colony; 8.30am–3pm), belongings and pictures of victims An autorickshaw here from New open Nov–Mar, 9am–3pm, for women, 6–11 opened in 1996, treats more than and over 50 audio recordings from Market costs `80. pm for men; massages start from `400 200 Union Carbide victims a day survivors, doctors and experts. %775 3295043; Lake Drive Rd; 10.30am– 6.30pm Bharat Bhawan folk music and a centre for classical Jehan Numa An amphitheatre, garden sculptures, cinema. Check monthly events on Palace Hotel HERITAGE HOTEL ``` Qadimi Hammam theatre and live performances make the website. %755 2661100; www.hoteljehanumapalace. Built in the early 1700s, a Turkish Bharat Bhawan a good place to visit. % 755 2660239; www.bharatbhawan.org; com; 157 Shamla Hill; patio s/d `5480/6700, bath, the Qadimi Hammam, is still The cool air from the adjoining lake 10am–6pm s/d from `7920/9140, ste from `19,500 (incl a major draw. Separate sections helps if you want a walk around. The breakfast) This former 19th-century for men and women are well bhawan also has a Museum of Fine 4 palace lost none of its colonial-era maintained. Naseem, the lady of the Arts, a repertory, Centre of Indian Accommodation charm through its conversion into house, doubles as a deft masseuse. Poetry, a library of classical and Jehan Numa a top-class hotel. Arched walkways Retreat HERITAGE HOTEL ``` and immaculate lawns lead you to beautifully decorated rooms. The Detour: Bhimbetka & Islamnagar % 755 660 6600 www.http://www. fact that you can sleep in a patio The Bhimbetka rock shelters, 45km from Bhopal, still exhibit traces of life jehannuma.com; Near Van Vihar, Dr. Salim room – perfectly great in a five- on earth from as long as 10,000 years ago. These ancient rock paintings Ali Road, Prempura; cottages `14,000 star hotel is unbelievable. Worth a depict hunting scenes and life as it was in the Stone Age and after. Entry (incl breakfast) The sprawling resort splurge. There’s a palm-lined Indian/foreigner `50/100; 7am–7pm doesn’t hold back on the plushness, pool, an excellent health spa, complete with a spa, luxurious Islamnagar is about 11km on the Bhopa-Berasia Road and 20km on three restaurants, two bars and a the Bypass Road. It was the palace of Bhopal’s Afghan rulers and its surrounds and birding for outdoorsy coffee shop. impressive architecture makes it worthy of a halt. activities among others. 84 Best Trips Bhopal 85

Palash Residency mpstdc `` makes up for the rusty housekeeping and slightly noisy rooms. Even then, Snapshot: Begums of Bhopal %755 2553066; palash@mptourism. this is one of the most reasonable com; TT Nagar; s/d from `3860/4220 Between 1819–1926, Bhopal had places to stay if you’re looking for the unique distinction of having four This stately mid-range MP Tourism hotel is walking distance from New a budget accommodation in the female Muslim rulers. It wasn’t easy middle of town. to begin with, though. Opposition to Market. Breezy corridors lead to smart rooms with heavy wood having a female ruler came from all Hotel Ranjeet HOTEL ` quarters – meddlesome neighbours furniture, wall-mounted flat-screen % who looked at an opportunity to TVs, kettles and complimentary 755 2740500; www.ranjeethotels. annex the kingdoms and avaracious toiletries. There’s free wi-fi in the com; 3 Hamidia Rd; s/d from `450/700, male members who laid claim to the lobby, a spa, bar, three restaurants with AC from `750/1000 (incl breakfast) throne. Even the British and a new pool. An MP Tourism Even in the cheapest rooms you Company opposed it until the first office is based here. get your own soap, towel, bottle of begum had to gently remind them mineral water and a complimentary that Britannia was ruled by a female Hotel Sonali Regency HOTEL ` breakfast at Ranjeet. On our pass through, rooms were under the sovereign. Qudisa was the first %755 2740880; www.hotelsonaliregency. knife getting a contemporary begum; she was succeeded by her com; Radha Talkies Rd; s/d from `650/750, Shah Jahan Begum was the third female facelift, so expect shiny new floors daughter Sikandar who was followed with AC from `1350/1550 (incl breakfast) ruler of Bhopal by her daughter Shah Jahan. The last Excellent service, right down to and woodwork, contemporary was Sultan Jahan who abdicated the throne in favour of her son, the first the errand boys, makes this a bathrooms and higher rates than male Nawab of Bhopal after five generations. great option near Hamidia Road. those listed here. The restaurant Newly renovated AC rooms have is good, there’s a bar, and it’s convenient to get to the bus and Noor-Us-Sabah `8799 (incl breakfast) Ask specifically new floors, funky-shaped beds and working hot showers. Skip the train stations from here. Palace HERITAGE HOTEL ``` for rooms overlooking the lake since this is the speciality of the hotel. This lowest category; executive non-AC %755 4223333; www.noorussabahpalace. is one of the stalwarts of Bhopal’s rooms (from `900) are every bit 5 Eating com; VIP Rd; s/d `6500/7500, ste from hospitality, so one can’t go wrong as comfortable as the AC rooms. `16,500 (incl breakfast) Perched on with the clean and spacious rooms. Amenities include towels and Under the Mango Tree INDIAN ``` a hilltop overlooking the lake, the toiletries hygienically wrapped in It’s the balcony you will find hard to Jehan Numa Palace Hotel, 157 Shamla Welcom Heritage acquired hotel plastic and a morning newspaper. tear yourself away from. Hill; mains `380–750; 7.30–11pm Jehan leaves nothing to the imagination From Hamidia Road, turn left down Numa Palace’s best restaurant where luxury is concerned. The the lane alongside Hotel Ranjit and Hotel Amer Palace HOTEL `` specialises in barbecue kebabs and building was constructed in the follow it around to the right. 1920s and is still dotted with %755 4292770; www.hotelamerpalace. tandoori items. The pankhi chicken com; MP Nagar; s/d from `3640/4540 (incl kebab (marinated chicken wings) is remnants of the royal past – black Hotel Tilak HOTEL ` and white photographs, ornate breakfast) Conveniently located, Hotel melt-off-the-bone astonishing, but % artefacts and even the city’s first car. Amer Palace offers more than just 755 4273333; www.tilakhotel.com; drowning yourself in flavour with spacious and clean rooms; in-house Nagar; s/d from the sampler platter (from `830) `1500/3000 with AC (incl breakfast) Newly Lake View Ashok HOTEL ``` dining, a famous bakery called the is the way to go. Good food, wine, Amer Bakery Hut and a health club opened, Hotel Tilak promises clean draught beer (Woodpecker, a local %755 2660090; www.lakeviewashok; 157 are ample reasons to book this hotel. and spacious rooms and ample swill) and cocktails all combine Shamla Hill; s/d `5299/5700, ste from cheer in its hospitality – all of this under a romantic white pavilion and 86 Best Trips Bhopal 87

If You Like: Street food in the Old City Haji Lassi eat at the basic restaurant itself. The best lassis in town dance in Chatori Gali; mains less than `100; The street food of Bhopal requires Delhi Zayaka pink and green-tinted-tall glasses. 8am–8pm special mention. Tucked away in Try the Chicken Afghan – it beats No surprise then that politicians, the labyrinth of lanes in the old part everything else on the menu. As a Bollywood stars and the who’s who Salim Bhai Kebab Bun of town, a trip here can leave you contrast to other ‘stand and eat’ of India have stopped here for a swig. For a quick snack of kebab bun, head breathless for more reasons than shops, here you can sit comfortably %9826064603; Itwara Chowk; mains less straight to Chatori Gali. The shop is one – the sheer number of options and get a view of the road. than `100 ( falooda for `65, lassi `45 per the first one to your right, with no to eat and the jostling through %9644653948; Sultania Rd; mains `200– glass); 10am–midnight distinguishable signage. crowds that you might have to do. If 400; 11am–midnight Chatori Gali; mains less than `100; you want a quick spin of the place, Jameel 8am–8pm autorickshaw driver cum guide, Jai Jinendra Stalwarts in dishing out the best Syed Masood Ali is your best bet nihari, biryani, mutton stew and Famous Biryani %9179479885. A swift, no-nonsense service style is the only way that this shop has moong dal halwa, Jameel doesn’t Only a plate of biryani from here can been keeping customers happy for need to spruce up the restaurant. make you dig into it as early as 8 in Mamaji Jalebi Wale the last 23 years. The dahi vada and The food does all the talking. the morning. The mutton biryani is Jalebi and poha are the two papri chaat are to die for. Ibrahimpura; mains less than `100; 10am– incomparable to anything that you specialities of this old shop. No %9893040392; Jain Mandir Rd; mains less noon might have eaten before. counsel can get you through than `100; 8am–10pm %9893841745; Itwara Chowk; mains less the crowds – just some plain ol’ Hotel Gazala than `100; 8am–8pm elbowing. Anything for a hot jalebi. The nali-nihari combo at this busy % Kalyan Singh Swad Bhandar 9039313139; Lakherapura; mains less shop in Chatori Gali moves quickly. Bhopal’s street food offers a treat for smoked than `100; 8am–11pm Look at nothing else but this pit stop for the poha-sev and jalebi breakfast So get here quick to pack some or meat and more at Itwara Road. Zam Zam %755 2731495; Itwara Rd; mains less than A standing-room-only crowd swarms `100; 8am–8pm this fast-food hotspot day and night for some of Bhopal’s best biryani, but it’s the finger-lickin’, Sulaimani Chai outrageously good chicken tikka, All along the Itwara Chowk, dusty grilled over hot coals before your shanties dish out the best sulaimani eyes and dipped in house green- chai. Jamal Bhai’s shop is more chilli yoghurt sauce that’s the true popular than the others; it might showstopper. It’s so cheap, we have something to do with his extra ordered both! polite demeanour. Hamidia Rd; mains `50–100; 11.30am– Itwara Rd; mains less than `100 (chai for midnight `5); 6am–12.30am 88 Best Trips Bhopal 89

canteen-style restaurant does brisk of souvenirs, textiles, jewellery and business in South Indian breakfasts, local handicrafts. thaalis, snacks, shakes and a load of presumably more-hygienic 2 versions of many Indian street-food Activities favourites. In truth, it’s a bit of a madhouse and rightfully so. Has an Heritage Walk impressive range of cakes, cookies %9899692790; info@indiacitywalks. and sweets at a side counter, one of com; `500 per person and more for groups the best in town. Contact the National Award winner India City Walks as this is one of 7 the better ways to get close to the Shopping interesting parts of Bhopal. Walks follow thematic experiences that Mrignayanee include heritage as well. %755 2554162; www.mphandicrafts.com; Shopping Centre, TT Nagar; 10am–6pm Kerwa Dam zip lining Sample bhelpuri and other street food Indian train, the decor trumps the The state-run emporium is an easy in Bhopal food here. Try the railway cutlets, a Drive about 15km from Bhopal’s shopping destination for elegant classic on the menu. New Market area to reach Kerwa Chanderi and Maheshwari saris, Dam, a picnic spot. Trekking and zip the heavy boughs of a venerable textiles, artefacts, jewellery, centenarian mango tree. Wind n Waves Multi-cuisine `` lining activities make for a day’s fun. souvenirs and handicrafts. The MPSTDC’s Kerwa serves easy %755 2661523; Van Vihar Rd, Shamla INDIAN ``` meals and snacks. Bapu ki Kutiya Hills; mains `175–450; 9am–11pm The Tribes India %755 4220849; MP Nagar; mains `500– Madhya Pradesh Tourism’s cheerful %755 2579644; Inner Court GTB Complex; Colourful Gond art on boxes 750; 10.30am–11pm Simple fare, largely restaurant offers Continental, Indian 10am–8pm Shop here for a variety make for giftables North Indian, at the immensely and Chinese fare and can mix a popular Bapu ki Kutiya, is its forte. mean cocktail for sundowners. The pure vegetarian restaurant is usually packed with locals – a little Indian waiting time is expected. It is heart- Coffee House SOUTH INDIAN ` warming to see that the restaurant New Market Rd, New Market; mains has not disturbed a tree that cuts `50–260; 7am–11pm As always, Indian through the ceiling, with holy strings Coffee House is a top spot for attached to it. This used to be the breakfast, and this is one of the resting place for a peer. nicest outlets in India. Waiters in fan- tailed hats dish out filter coffee plus INDIAN ``` Bhopal Express South Indian favourites. %755 2660802; opp Doordarshan premises, Lake View, Shamla Hills; mains Manohar INDIAN ` `500–750; 11am–11pm Themed and 6 Hamidia Rd; mains `30–150, thaali designed after the coaches of an `130–160; 8am–11pm This bright, clean, 90 Best Trips Bhopal 91

are made from white, black and This belt is well known for the green sandstone. paintings of the Gond community. Expert Recommendation These tribal paintings which depict Crafts of Madhya Pradesh The tribal communities of Dindori nature, local gods and legends are district carve wood to make masks vivid and colourful. Dots and lines Uma Tewari works with traditional craft techniques. and figurines used in rituals. Potters are delicately patterned to fill in the She is the founder of Then & Now, a sustainable make terracotta toys used as empty spaces as animals and birds project. offerings during festivals. Utility merge with the flora and fauna. items of natural materials such as bamboo and cane are also available. Successive ruling dynasties of HANDICRAFTS Madhya Pradesh have lent their Zardozi (gold embroidery) has been patronage to different skills resulting prevalent in Bhopal for the last 300 in a plethora of craft techniques. years. The city’s tiny bejewelled purses are very well-known. A small TEXTILES group of artisans in the capital city also makes colourful wood toys Delicate stripes and checks with and containers. Ujjain has a few floral and geometric borders and the families of wood carvers who make fine Maheshwari sari traditions were idols, especially for tribals. They encouraged by none other than Rani are also famous for making combs Ahilyabai of the Holkar dynasty of with geometric patterns. This city Indore. Chanderi has been a weaving is also known to make figurines and centre of royal repute since Vedic masks of papier mache. Indore, times. Its delicate zari motif has Dewas, Gwalior and Bilaspur have evolved from the traditional circle been known for leather footwear. to many intricate designs – floral, Today, they have moved onto making peacocks and geometrics. On the leather toys of international repute. banks of the River Bagh are a group of printers, migrants from Sindh, Pakistan. The waters of this river SCULPTURE have a high copper content that give The Scindias of Gwalior patronised depth to the colour. The Bagh print sandstone carving. Intricate lattices is characterised by red and black on with geometric Islamic patterns a white or beige background, floral exemplify the skill of the artisans. geometrical prints and large cross Today, stone sculptures are also borders. These textiles are sold as made. Woollen carpets have been saris, dupattas, stoles, bedcovers or woven here since Mughal times. just fabric. Stone carvers are based around Jabalpur too, famous for its marble rocks. Boxes, trays and small objects ManyGond artistgroups Rajinder in Chennai Shyam’s take visitorswork on on Krishna heritage and walks his cattle friends 92 Best Trips Sanchi 93

Sanchi

Why Go? Sanchi, 48km northeast of Bhopal, is a rounded hill topped with some of India’s oldest Buddhist structures. Today, the remarkably preserved Great Stupa is the centrepiece of Sanchi’s Buddhist monuments, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s from here that Emperor Ashoka spread his message of peace and it is one of the best maintained Buddhist monuments in the country. Plan a day trip from Bhopal. Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & around When To Go A cab from Bhopal is the best way Nov–Mar to reach Sanchi. The train is also Great For a decent option from Bhopal and

takes less than an hour so there’s no need to book a seat. In Sanchi, autorickshaws charge by conjecture. Pay `20 minimum fare for short distances and bargain for anything else. Best if you have your own cab from Bhopal.

India’s oldest Buddhist structures are at Sanchi 94 Best Trips Sanchi 95

1 Sights to the stupas for the sunrise, buy a back down via Stupa 2, although ticket the day before. be prepared for some fence- hopping at the bottom. Instead of Buddhist Monuments Stupas gateways, ‘medallions’ decorate the In 262 BC, repentant of the horrors surrounding wall – naive in design, Stupa 1 (Great Stupa) is beautifully he had inflicted on Kalinga, the but full of energy and imagination. Mauryan emperor Ashoka embraced proportioned and is the main structure on the hill, directly in Flowers, animals and people – some Buddhism and built the Great mythological – ring the stupa. Stupa at Sanchi, near the birthplace front of you as you enter the Stupa 3 is northeast of the Great of his wife. The hilltop Buddhist complex from the north. Originally Stupa (you pass it on your left as you monuments (Indian/foreigner constructed by Ashoka, it was later approach the Great Stupa from the `10/250, video `25; dawn–dusk) enlarged and the original brick main entrance) and similar in design, are reached via a path and stone stupa enclosed within a stone one. though smaller, with a single, rather steps at the end of Monuments Presently it stands 16m high and fine gateway. It once contained Road where the ticket office (dawn– 37m in diameter. Encircling the relics of two important disciples dusk) is located. If you don’t want stupa is a wall with four entrances of Buddha: Sariputta and Maha to walk up the hill, autorickshaws through magnificently carved Moggallana. They were moved to will deposit you at the top for `30. toranas (gateways) that are the London in 1853 but returned in 1953 Official central government guides finest Buddhist works of art in and are now kept in the modern mill about and charge `1035/1310 Sanchi, if not in India. Sanchi is an important stop on the Buddhist vihara (resting place). for half/full day. If you’re going up Stupa 2 is halfway down the hill circuit in India to the west (turn right at Stupa Only the base is left of the 2nd- The Great Stupa’s northern gateway was built 1). If you come up from the village century BC Stupa 4, which stands never represented directly – his by Emperor Ashoka by the main route you can walk behind Stupa 3. Between Stupas 1 presence was only alluded to and 3 is the small Stupa 5, unusual through symbols. The lotus stands in that it once contained a statue of for his birth, the bodhi tree for his the Buddha, now displayed in the enlightenment, the wheel for his museum. teachings, and the footprint and throne for his presence. The stupa Toranas itself symbolises Lord Buddha. The Great Stupa’s four toranas (gateways) were erected around Northern Gateway 35 BC, but had all fallen down by The Northern Gateway, topped by the time the site was rediscovered. a broken Wheel of Law, is the best They have since been repositioned. preserved of the toranas. Scenes Scenes carved onto the pillars include a monkey offering a bowl and their triple architraves (main of honey to Gautama Buddha, who beam across the top of columns) is represented by a bodhi tree. are mainly tales from the Jatakas, Another panel depicts the Miracle episodes from Buddha’s various of Sravasti – one of several miracles lives. At this stage in Buddhist represented here – in which the art, Lord Buddha himself was Buddha, again in the form of a bodhi 96 Best Trips Sanchi 97

back to life as the queen of Benares. hall) remarkably similar in style to Her wish came true, and as queen classical Greek columned buildings. she ordered hunters to track down To its left is the small, also Greek-like and kill the elephant king. A hunter Temple 17. Beyond both of them, the found the great elephant but before large Temple 40 dates back to the he could kill it, the elephant handed Ashokan period, in part. over his tusks, an act so noble it led The rectangular Temple 31, beside to the queen dying of remorse. Stupa 5, contains a well-executed image of Buddha. Western Gateway Pot-bellied dwarves support Monasteries the architraves of the Western The earliest monasteries were made Gateway, which has some of the of wood and are long gone. The site’s most interesting scenes. The usual plan was of a central courtyard top architrave shows Lord Buddha surrounded by monastic cells. These in seven different incarnations, days only the courtyards and stone manifested three times as a stupa foundations remain. Monasteries and four times as a tree. The rear 45 and Monastery 47, standing on tree, ascends a road into the air. A meditating Buddha at the main entrance of of one pillar shows the Buddha the eastern ridge to the left of Stupa Elephants support the architraves the Great Stupa resisting the Temptation of Mara 1, date from the transition from above the columns, while delicately (the Buddhist personification of evil, Buddhism to , with strong carved yakshis (maidens) hang Southern Gateway often called the Buddhist devil). Hindu elements in their design. The nonchalantly on each side. The back-to-back lions supporting former has two sitting Buddhas. The the Southern Gateway, the oldest Pillars one housed inside is exceptional. Eastern Gateway gateway, form the state emblem of Of the scattered pillar remains, the Behind Monastery 51, partway down the hill towards Stupa 2, is the The breathtaking carved figure of a India, which can be seen on every most important is Pillar 10, erected Great Bowl, carved from a boulder, yakshi hanging from an architrave banknote. The gateway narrates by Ashoka but later broken. Two into which food and offerings were on the Eastern Gateway, is one Ashoka’s life as a Buddhist, with upper sections of this beautifully placed for distribution to the monks. of Sanchi’s best-known images. scenes of Gautama Buddha’s birth proportioned and executed shaft One of the pillars, supported by and another representation of the lie side by side behind Stupa 1; the elephants, features scenes from Great Departure. capital (head of the pillar, usually Other Sights the Buddha’s passage to nirvana. Also featured is the Chhaddanta sculpted) is in the museum. Pillar Another shows Buddha’s mother Jataka, a story in which Bodhisattva 25, east of Stupa 1, dating from the Vihara Maya’s dream, which she had when (Buddha before he had reached Sunga period (2nd century BC) and The vihara, literally ‘resting place’, he was conceived, of an elephant enlightenment) took on the form of the 5th-century AD Pillar 35, west of was built to house the returned relics standing on the moon. Across the an elephant king who had six tusks. Stupa 1, are less impressive. from Stupa 3. They can be viewed on front of the middle architrave is the The less favoured of the elephant the last Sunday of the month. The Great Departure, when the Buddha king’s two wives was so jealous of Temples vihara is immediately on your left as (a riderless horse) set out to find the other that she decided to starve Temple 18, behind Stupa 1, is a you enter the complex. enlightenment. herself to death, vowing to come chaitya (prayer room or assembly 9am–5pm 98 Best Trips Sanchi 99

Archaeological Museum from `2140/2690 (incl breakfast) This This fine museum has a small family-friendly MP Tourism hotel Detour: Vidisha, Udaigiri Caves & collection of sculptures from the site. is the most comfortable place to Heliodorus Pillar The centrepiece is the 3rd-century stay in Sanchi. AC bungalows are set among well-kept gardens, with BC lion capital from the Ashoka Pillar 5 contains the finest carving – a a children’s play area and a big Vidisha 10. Other highlights include a yakshi superb image of Vishnu in his boar slide leading to a small kiddie pool. This small but thriving market town hanging from a mango tree, and incarnation topped with a frieze of Note that non-AC rooms are not was a commercial centre in the beautifully serene Buddha figures in gods, who also flank the entrance located here but nearby at Gateway 5th and 6th centuries BC. These red sandstone. There are also some to Cave 6. Lotus-ceilinged Cave 7 Cafeteria. days it’s an interesting place for a interesting photos showing the site, wander or a chai break en route to was cut out for the personal use of The restaurant (mains `110 to `290) pre-restoration. Next door is the the Udaigiri Caves. Chandragupta II. On top of the hill preserved Gothic-style ‘bungalow’ of is Sanchi’s best and there’s a bar. are ruins of a 6th-century Gupta There are a number of brightly Sir John Marshall, former director of temple dedicated to the sun god. coloured temples dotted around the Archaeological Survey of India. New Jaiswal Lodge GUESTHOUSE ` the old town, which is located to the 13.5 km from Sanchi; dawn–dusk; Cabs on hire for a day cost approx `2500; Admission incl stupa ticket; 9am–5pm %9981941274; Monuments Rd; s/d/tr left of the main road from Sanchi. Tue–Sun `450/550/650 This friendly place has autorickshaws cost `400 Past the town, and over the railway basic but colourful rooms and small line, is the dusty District Museum Heliodorus Pillar private bathrooms with sit-down 4 (Sagar-Vidisha Rd; Indian/foreigner Accommodation & flush toilets. It does basic meals The Heliodorus Pillar (Khamb `5/50, camera `50; 10am–5pm Baba), just beyond the Udaigiri 5 Eating and air-coolers can be provided if Tue–Sun), which houses some Caves turn-off, was erected by a needed. beautiful sculptures recovered from Greek ambassador, Heliodorus Gateway Retreat mpstdc `` local sites. The most impressive is from Taxila (now in Pakistan), in %7482 266723; www.mptourism.com; Krishna Hotel GUESTHOUSE ` a 3m-high, 2nd-century BC stone about 140 BC, and dedicated to Bhopal-Vidisha Rd; s/d `990/1170, with AC %7482 266610; Bhopal-Vidisha Rd; s/d statue of Kuber Yaksha (treasurer of Vasudeva. The pillar is worshipped from `200/450 Simple rooftop rooms, the gods) on display as you enter. by local fishermen who chain Vishnu in his boar avatar in Udaigiri some with sit-down flush toilets, are 8km from Sanchi; cabs on hire for a day themselves to the pillar on full- slightly more expensive than the cost approx `2500 moon nights. A large tamarind tree darker, noisier rooms at the front. It’s nearby is bristling with old nails as a Udaigiri Caves above Sai Chemist Shop. Pancakes of local exorcism rituals. and a few traveller favourites are Cut into a sandstone hill, about 5km The pillar is close to the Udaigiri available from the kitchen. northwest of Vidisha, are some 20 Caves. Once you cross the Betwa unique Gupta cave shrines. These River, carry straight on, rather than are special as they are some of Gateway Cafeteria INDIAN ` turning left for the caves, and you’ll the most ancient Hindu rock face soon see a sign directing you up Monuments Rd; mains `70–100; 8am–10am, sculptures. They date from the a small lane on your right, which noon–3pm & 7–10.30pm This simple reign of Chandragupta II (382–401 leads to the pillar. MP Tourism place has a very basic AD). Most are Hindu but two, near 11km; 8am–6pm; cabs on hire for a day cost Indian menu and coffee in addition the top of the hill, are Jain (Caves approx `2500 to housing the non-AC rooms of 1 and 20) – unfortunately both are Gateway Retreat. closed due to unsafe roofs. In Cave 4 is a lingam bearing Shiva’s face complete with a third eye. Cave 100 Best Trips Pachmarhi 101

Pachmarhi

Why Go? Swaying sal trees, cool hilly peaks and jungle calls make tourism the mainstay here. An army occupied ‘cantonment town’, Pachmarhi is the other slice of the Satpura Biosphere, which holds nothing in common with its low-key neighbour, the Madai region of the . Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & around When To Go Bhopal is the closest airport to Oct–May Pachmarhi (195km). From Bhopal, Great For cabs are the best option. Cabs can

be hired at `9–11 per km, minimum 250km, plus driver allowance. Alternatively, Pipariya railway station lies 47km from the town on the main Mumbai–Howrah line; a cab to Pachmarhi can cost upto `1000 or more.

Pachmarhi is also called the ‘Queen of Satpura’ 102 Best Trips Pachmarhi 103

1 Sights Chauragarh Loop South of Jaistambha is the road If You Like: Satpura Adventure Institute Bison Lodge that leads towards Chauragarh The ground next to the airstrip is rife with adrenalin as parasailing (`600), (1308m), Madhya Pradesh’s third- Captain Forsyth named Bison ATVs (`300–500), zip lining (`500) and other sporting activities are highest peak. The Shiva shrine at Lodge after a herd of ‘bison’ getting booked by mostly frenzied first timers. The equipment looks the top attracts tens of thousands (gaur) he spotted here. It’s now an haggard with overuse but the camp works like a well-oiled machine. interpretation centre focusing on of pilgrims during the Shivaratri 9am–6pm the history, flora and fauna of the Mela (Jan–Feb). On the way, Satpura region. The complex also stop at Handi Khoh, also known doubles up as the Eco Paryatan as Suicide Point, to gawk down Jata Shankar Temple these falls, they are now named the 100m canyon at the dense Tourism Office where one can buy This cave temple is in a beautiful as ‘bee’ falls after the stinging forest. You’ll spy Chauragarh in tickets for the sights that fall under gorge about 2.5km along a good sensation that you feel when the the distance from here as well as the forested region, hire vehicles track that’s signed just north of the water plummets down on you. There (read Gypsy) and guides, both Priyadarshini (Forsyth Point), further town limits. The small Shiva shrine are two levels to the falls. The easier mandatory. along the road. About 3km beyond is hidden under a huge overhanging spot is a short walk down where Priyadarshini, the road ends at tiered and more tamed water allows 9am–5pm Thu–Tue, to 1pm Wed; forest entry rock. Mahadev Cave (7am–7pm), where people to bathe or dip their feet charge `60 per head or `960 for upto 7 a path 30m into the damp gloom sitting at the edge of rocks. Climb people is incl of guide, Gypsy (4WD) `1425 reveals a lingam with an attendant down 350 steps to see the real per day (`2500 peak season) priest. This is the beginning of the Known as the Big Fall, the route wonder where the falls crash down Dawn and dusk at Pachmarhi offer great 1365-step pilgrim trail to Chauragarh to Rajat Prapat steps up from the onto rocks. This is also accessible to valley views (five hours return hike). snack stall by Vihar leading a more enthusiastic crowd. to a point with magnificent views of 9am–3.30pm; `600 for a local jeep that the gorge and of Rajat Prapat, the drives you from the parking lot for 3km down tallest of Pachmarhi’s waterfalls at to the first level – only if you haven’t already 106m, which tumbles down a gully hired a jeep for the day over a sheer cliff. Reechgarh Apsara Vihar More famous for the shooting of the Known as Fairy Pool on the other Bollywood blockbuster Asoka, rather side of Jaistambha, about 1km past than the jaw droppingly gorgeous Pandav Caves, is the trailhead for rockscape, Reechgarh is worth your Apsara Vihar, a pool underneath a time. It’s a short loop of a cave, small waterfall, which is the best which one can easily duck into and of Pachmarhi’s natural pools for walk along for a small stretch before swimming. emerging back in the light. The Reechgarh caves can be reached by Bee Falls a short walk from the parking lot. Originally named Jamna Prapat, The spot lies in the main city. after a local lady who chanced upon 104 Best Trips Pachmarhi 105

Duchess Falls one of the best heritage chains of The only fall that closes down the country. Overlooking the golf during the monsoon, this is where course of Pachmarhi, this is ideal for the famous Liril ad of yesteryears those looking for something plush. was shot. The falls lie about 8km Think period furniture, mini bar, an away from town. This is accessible LED TV and all the trappings of a by a Gypsy, but one needs to leg luxury resort. Expect discounts on the last 1.5km stretch. Once there, booking through their website. a 35ft tall cascade of water comes thunderously down with force. Glen View mpstdc `` Hire a cab for the day for all the spots, %7578 252533; www.mptourism.com; including Duchess Falls. Gypsy (4WD) `1425 Rajbhavan Rd; s/d `4000/4600, heritage per day (`2500 peak season) s/d `4700/5600 (incl meals) Large, comfortable AC tents and cottages 4 are dotted around the gardens. A Accommodation huge colonial-era cottage has also Most of the staying options can been converted to house the luxury be found in the Jaistambha area, ‘heritage’ rooms, all of which empty 2km southwest of the centre of out onto a sweeping verandah. town. Even though there are more There’s a restaurant and bar. than 350 accommodation options being comfortable, some of the The Duchess Falls cascade down a steep and jammed into this small town, don’t Evelyn’s Own Hotel `` guest rooms themselves lead to jagged rockface get here without a booking during %7578 252056; Saptura Retreat Rd; bathrooms that are a little too crusty it offers adventure activities on peak season. `2000–4000 This rustic colonial-era for the price. The wi-fi is fussy. the property – a climbing wall, cottage, built by a British priest, The Golf View Hotel ``` Rock-End Manor mpstdc `` ATVs and Burma Bridge are hugely was later converted into a charming popular with guests. There are only 6 % % 755 2466515; www.golfview.in; Mahadev guesthouse by the gruff-but-good- 7578 252079; www.mptourism.com; d cottages and Swiss tents and ample Rd; dbl Royal club/Regal club/Forsyth suite/ hearted Colonel Balwant Rao and `5390 (incl meals) A gorgeous colonial- space, so the experience is bound to Victorian suite `7000/8000/9000/10,000 his indomitable wife Pramilla. era building, whitewashed Rock- be without clutter. Originally constructed by the Roman The main cottage, full of family End is perched above the parched Catholic Mission Estate in 1926–27, portraits and period furniture and fairways of the army golf course. Six Hotel Saket Hotel `` this is now a refurbished version by garden are quaint delights. Despite spacious rooms have wonderfully high ceilings, and the furnishings are %7578 252165; www.sakethotel.in; Patel luxurious with quality upholstery, Rd; r from `600, with AC from `1500 There If You Like: Pick a guide framed paintings and full-body is a wide range of rooms at this massage showers. welcoming hotel, one of a myriad A good guide can amp up the trip to Pachmarhi including treks and visits paint-by-number options in town. to horticulture parks. Here are two listed : Woodland The attached restaurant, Raj Bhoj Makrand %9407269532 (mains `60 to `200) does good and Adventure Resort Hotel ``` Purushottam %9406937936 cheap Gujarati, Bengali, Chinese and %7578 252416; dbl AC only rooms `7000 South Indian dishes. A family-friendly spacious resort 106 Best Trips Pachmarhi 107

One of the more prominent options China Bowl Indian & Chinese ` humans eating in a cage. Good wide- amongst the MP Tourism offerings, reaching Indian menu. Mains below `500; 8am–10.30pm Choose Champak Bungalow boasts of a the open-air garden seating over functional pool, a gym and cycles for the cosy restaurant inside, at the 7 hire along with excellent rooms and Shopping atmospheric China Bowl. The large Swiss tents with lavish interiors. The airy verandah also has tables, HANDICRAFTS rooms overlook a large garden, at Mrignayanee making full use of the spacious the end of which stands the in-house Pachmarhi town; 10am–5pm The state- restaurant. colonial building. It is the breakfast run emporium is an easy shopping that comes as a pleasant surprise. destination for elegant Chanderi and Hotel Highlands mpstdc ` Maheshwari saris, textiles, artefacts, Rasoi Indian & Chinese ` Gond art, jewellery, souvenirs and %7578 252099; www.mptourism.com; handicrafts of the state. Pipariya Rd; r (incl breakfast & bed tea) Near Company Garden; mains `90–500; `2140 This MP Tourism property has 8am–11pm Not your average roadside BOUTIQUE great-value rooms with high ceilings, dhaba. A scrumptious, long-winded Prakrit dressing rooms, modern bathrooms non-veg, South Indian and Chinese %7578 252093; Raipur Rd; 11am–7pm and verandahs, which are dotted menu is served here by uniformed The silk-themed boutique with a around well-tended gardens. There’s waiters in several open-air seating manufacturing showcase section of a children’s play area and a bar- areas covered by corrugated roofs. Hoshangabad silk, is a great place to restaurant. Wi-fi is in the lobby only. Credit cards are accepted! pick authentic silk stoles, saris and Champak Bungalow from MP Tourism offers a textiles. Contemporary designs are cosy place to stay 5 Nandavan Restaurant Indian ` also available. The walkthrough of Eating the production unit is not charged. Vanasthali Cottages Hotel `` Mains `50–300; 8am–11pm An outdoor %9424439679; www.vanasthalicottages. New Hotel and restaurant and a sort of reverse zoo, North Indian fare is available in Pachmarhi’s co.in; VIP Rd; dbl `4800 (all incl) The Open Garden as monkeys sit outside watching many restaurants location is one of the few things Restaurant Indian & Chinese `` going for the privately run resort. %7581 013370; Mahadev Rd; mains It beats the clutter with its vantage below `500; 7am–11pm A rowdy gang address, away from the main of monkeys watches keenly over town. A mix of Swiss tents and hungry tourists digging into plates cheerful cottages make up the of Gujarati, Chinese, Bengali, South accommodation. Large and rather Indian or generic North Indian unkempt, it’s the kind of place a paneer and dal dishes. They often group can play music late into the swoop down at unsuspecting guests night and ask for a bonfire in the if the three young waiters clad with cooler months. catapults are distracted from their vigilance. One has to admit that no mpstdc `` Champak Bungalow other meal at Pachmarhi trumps %7578 252034; www.mptourism.com; d such entertainment. dlx/ac/swiss cottage `4890/4490/4490 108 Best Trips Ujjain 109

Ujjain

Why Go? Look beyond Ujjain’s chaos to wander down the ghats by the river and its maze of alleyways. Here, discover an older city, once called Avantika, that drew traders and pilgrims for hundreds of years and inspired Kalidasa’s Meghdoot. Little surprise that it is one of Hinduism’s seven sacred cities. Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & AROUND are a cheaper alternative to move The best way to get into Ujjain by air around in the city. is via Indore (55km/1hour). Ujjain is When To Go well-connected to key cities of India. Nov–Mar Recommended from Delhi: Ujjaiyani Express, Train No 14310. Cabs will Great For cost about `1000–1200. Within the city, cabs are `9–11 per km, min 250km per day and `200 as driver allowance. Autorickshaws

A devotee takes a holy dip in the River Shipra 110 Best Trips Ujjain 111

1 Sights was built by Maharaja Jai Singh in about 1730. He also built Snapshot: History observatories in Jaipur, Delhi, Mahakaleshwar Mandir Varanasi and , but Ujjain’s is The Guptas, the Mandu sultans, Maharaja Jai Singh (of Jaipur fame), the While this is not the most stunning the only one still in use. Marathas and the Scindias have all had a controlling hand in Ujjain’s long temple, tagging along behind a and chequered past, which stretches back to when the city, originally Observatory; Jantar Mantar; admission `10; conga-line through the underground called Avantika, was an important trade stop. When the Scindias moved 8am–5pm chambers can be magical. At non their capital to Gwalior in 1810, Ujjain’s prominence declined rapidly. festival times, the marble walkways Gopal Mandir are a peaceful preamble to the entrance, two tall blackened stone The Scindias built this marble-spired Ram Ghat subterranean chamber containing towers glowing with burning lamps temple, a magnificent example of The most central and popular of one of India’s 12 sacred Shiva are a special feature of Maratha Maratha architecture, in the 19th Ujjain’s river ghats is best visited shrines known as jyotirlingams – art. They add to the spectacle of century. Muslim pillagers originally at dawn or dusk when the devout naturally occurring believed Navaratri in September/October, stole the sanctum’s silver-plated beat cymbals and light oil lamps to derive currents of (creative when filled with oil and lit up. energies perceived as female doors from in (or candles in modern times) at the Banks of Rudra Sagar; dawn–dusk deities) from within themselves Gujarat and installed them in Ghazni, water’s edge. rather than being ritually invested . Mohammed Shah Abdali Dawn–dusk Devotees halt to pick up floral offerings with -shakti by priests. The later took them to Lahore (in present- at the temples temple was destroyed by in day Pakistan), before Mahadaji 1235 and restored by the Scindias in Scindia brought them back here. The the 19th century. alleyways north, east and west of here Banks of Rudra Sagar; Harsiddhi Mandir are wonderful places to explore. Square; 3am–11pm Banks of Rudra Sagar; dawn–dusk

Vedh Shala Harsiddhi Mandir Ujjain has been India’s Greenwich Built during the Maratha period, this since the 4th century BC, and this temple enshrines a famous image simple but interesting observatory of the goddess Annapurna. At the

If You Like: Festivals & events

Kumbh Mela (Apr–May) Ujjain is also one of four sites in India that hosts the incredible Kumbh Mela (p114) during which millions bathe in the Shipra. It takes place here every 12 years, normally during April and May. The last was from 22 April to 21 May in 2016. Navaratri (Sep–Oct) Navaratri leading up to Dussehra is celebrated with particular fervour in Ujjain. Lamps on the large pillars in Harsiddhi Mandir are lit up. 112 Best Trips Ujjain 113

Hotel Grand Tower HOTEL ` %734 2553699; 1 Vikram Marg; s/d from If You Like: S&L shows, heritage walks `1420/1640 In a very busy part of %734 2552263; www.mptourism.com; 10am–6pm Mon–Sat. Located in the grounds town convenient to get to the train of Mahakaleshwar Mandir contact the office for details about the sound station, the all-AC GT has large, and light shows, heritage walks etc. clean, well-kept rooms plus efficient service and the very good Zharokha 1949, this epic sweet shop has been restaurant in the basement below restaurant serving excellent satiating Ujjaini sugar cravings. Hotel Satyam has an extensive menu Kashmiri, Punjabi and Chinese food There’s no English sign or menu, but with detailed descriptions of every (mains `90 to `140). the friendly owner can steer you in dish. Choose from tandoori kebabs, the right direction. Upstairs, there’s a selection of paneer dishes, koftas Hotel Rama Krishna HOTEL ` a great savoury menu that includes and a variety of stuffed vegetables. %734 2553017; www.hotelramakrishna. creative South Indian (green Skip the uneventful thali. co.in; Subhash Rd; s/d `500/650, with AC chutney masala dosa) and Chinese. `900/1000 This cleaner-than-average It’s right of Baker’s Lounge. hotel has the best air-con rooms of those considered, with white-tiled Shivam Restaurant INDIAN ` floors, TVs, stylish trimmings and tight bathrooms. The non-ACs are Hotel Satyam; mains `60–160; 8am–5pm A ritual platter is offered to devotees A girl dressed as a goddess as part of well-worn versions of the same. & 7.30–10.30pm This popular veg at the temples folk rites Sit-down flush toilets throughout. New Sudama restaurant does 4 inexpensive North Indian food Accommodation & (mains `60–100). 5 Eating Hotel Pleasure Anjushree MPsTDC `` Landmark HOTEL ` % 734 6999111/222/333; www.anjushree. %734 2557867; www. com; 72, Goyala Khurd, Indore Rd, `4,500 hotelpleasurelandmark.com; 98 Mahakal With a range of options including Marg; r `900, with AC `1200 Basic rooms deluxe rooms, family rooms and here cop a bit of noise and are a suites this is a contemporary hotel tad cluttered with chunky wooden with modern amenities. furniture, but there’s some historic character and it’s a great location Shipra from which to launch yourself into Residency MPsTDC `` the old town. Squat toilets only. %734 2551495; [email protected]; 0.5km from Railway Station; `2,990 Shree onwards; Given its proximity to the Ganga SWEETS, SOUTH INDIAN ` railway station this is a good option 50 Amarsingh Marg; sweets per kilo from and you can expect comfy rooms. `360, mains `40–120; 7am–11pm Since 114 Best Trips Ujjain 115

Expert Recommendation The Kumbh Mela

Karuna Ezara Parikh is a travel TV host and writer. She attended the Kumbh Mela in Ujjain in May 2016. Here are her tips to navigate a travel trip during this festival.

The Kumbh Mela, held every 12 the camps are safe and clean, and years in Ujjain, is a major draw for provide wi-fi, lockers, coolers and people from near and far, the pilgrim three meals a day. They also allow and the travel thirsty enthusiast. you to be right next to the action. • Fly to Indore and pre-book a taxi to • Find out well in advance what Ujjain. The drive takes about an hour. the important holy dates are. The • Once in Ujjain, you will have to auspicious dates will be significantly use the festival buses to enter. more crowded. If you’re happy to Remember to carry printouts of your brave that, then make sure your trip camp name, location and booking. has at least one such date, as you get to then witness the Kumbh in all • Travel light – there’s a good chance its glory. If it makes you queasy, then you will have to carry your bags for avoid the dates on which you’ll be certain stretches, so anything with surrounded by millions. wheels should be avoided. A light duffel/rucksack is best. • Greet the babas and sadhus with respect. “Om Namo Narayana,” is • Dress modestly. Though no one the correct greeting, but a simple will skin you for it, avoid western “Namaste” will do too. Do not touch clothing. the Naga sadhus. They will bless you • Carry rubber slippers, you’ll need if they wish to. them both at the camp and at the • Always ask sadhus before taking a ghats. photo. • Book your camp beforehand. Though you can stay in a hotel,

Pilgrims congregate at the Kumbh Mela in Ujjain Many groups in Chennai take visitors on heritage walks 116 Best Trips Indore 117

Indore

Why Go? The Holkar dynasty left behind some fine buildings here, but Indore – Madhya Pradesh’s business powerhouse – is used by tourists as the gateway to Omkareshwara, Maheshwar or Mandu. That said, it’s a fine spot to reload. Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & AROUND When To Go Air India flies daily to Delhi and Nov–Mar Mumbai. Jet Airways also flies Great For similar routes out of Bhopal. More

than 20 daily trains go to Agra’s Cantonment station and to Jhansi for Orchha or Khajuraho and Delhi, while more than 15 go to Bhopal. In the city, autorickshaws and taxis are plentiful. An autorickshaw to the airport, 10km northeast of the centre, will cost at least `200.

The is a symbol of the Holkar footprint in Indore 118 Best Trips Indore 119

1 Sights was poisoned during the First War of Independence. If You Like: Choral Resort Lal Bagh Palace AB Rd; Indian/foreigner `10/100, camera/ video `50/200; 10am–5pm Tue–Sun The MP tourism property, over 41km from Indore, overlooks a scenic water Built between 1886 and 1921, Lal front that’s best for boating. Do enjoy a glass of wine with a variety of Bagh Palace is the finest building left multi-cuisine options, including Chinese chow. by the Holkar dynasty. Replicas of Gandhi Hall %8349994778; www.hotelamarvilas.com; ; d AC delux `3290 the Buckingham Palace gates creak This gorgeous Gothic town hall, built at the entrance to the 28-hectare in 1904 and originally called King garden. The palace is dominated by Edward’s Hall, stands incongruously on the banks of River Ken have a contemporary spin to them. European styles. An autorickshaw on MG Rd like a ghost of the Raj. commemorate the Holkar kings. A pool and seven in-house dining from the town centre costs about Dawn–dusk Near Rajwada options make it ideal. `50. Indian/foreigner `5/100; 10am–5pm Rajwada Kaanch Mandir Amar Vilas HOTEL `` Tue–Sun The palatial structure is a remnant The serene Jain shrine gets a %731 4281111; www.hotelamarvilas.com; of the rich architectural style of the fair share of tourists walking Chandra Nagar, AB Rd; s/d `3300/`3900; Central Museum Holkars of the . Now, between people meditating to ste `5900 onwards (incl breakfast) The Housed in a fine Holkar building, this is used as a venue for the sound see its resplendent glass-studded spacious rooms at Amar Vilas this museum has one of Madhya and light show. walls, columns and ceiling. It was and a spate of in-house dining Pradesh’s best collections of Indian/foreigner `10/250; 10am–5pm; constructed in 1903 by a local trader, options, makes it suitable for both medieval and premedieval Hindu sound and light show Indian/foreigner who imported craftsmen from business and leisure travellers. The sculptures, along with tools, `100/250; English/Hindi 7.45pm/6.45pm to do the ornamentation here. executive room is large enough to weaponry and copper-engraved 92 Sir Hukumchand Marg; 10am–5pm accommodate a family with an extra land titles. The well in the garden Krishnapura Chhatris bed. European style interiors gleam at the The majestic Krishnapura chhatris, 4 Accommodation Hotel Lal Bagh Palace with their spires and sculptures, Shreemaya BUSINESS HOTEL `` Hotel Somdeep Palace HOTEL `` %731 2515555; www.shreemaya.com; % 731 3321000; www.somdeeppalace. 12 RNT Marg; s/d from `2880/3700 com; M 10 Rd, near Vijay Nagar Square; s/d Professionally run friendly business `2500/`3500 onwards (incl breakfast) hotel with modern rooms in With spacious rooms, in-house immaculate condition. Rooms dining options, reasonable amenities feature flat-screen TVs, coffee and even a small rooftop swimming makers and balconies with potted pool, one can’t ask for more. plants. Rates include breakfast and airport drop-off, while the multi- Sayaji Hotel HOTEL `` cuisine restaurant is one of the best %731 4006666; www.sayajihotels. in town (mains `155 to `350). com; Scheme No.54, Vijay Nagar; s/d `7000/`8000 onwards (incl breakfast) A Hotel Neelam HOTEL ` longstanding establishment, Sayaji %731 2466001; 33/2 Patel Bridge Corner; looks relatively old but the rooms s/d from `450/650, with AC `750/950 One 120 Best Trips Indore 121

Aspi & Co. CAFE ` Top Tip: for street food %731 3012490; Darshan Mall, Race Course The city is best known for its street food and there is no better way other Rd; mains `100–200; 11am–midnight Its swanky interiors don’t give away the than Sarafa Bazaar to experience it in Indore. Try the Kachori Corner fact that the establishment has been (11am–9pm), Vijay Chaat (9am–9pm), Hira Lassi (8am–9.30pm), Madni around since 1928. Its legendary Darbar for chicken ultimate (10.30am–11.30pm), Nafees for haleem and status comes from four homemade biryani (12pm–11.30pm), and Chaat Gali for a row of shanties that toss up brews, of which Ice-cream Soda a delicious chaat plate. Mirchina is the most famous.

of the few budget places near the romantic open-air rooftop restaurant Guru Kripa INDIAN ` train and bus stations that happily is on Indore’s main avenue of % accepts foreigners. Neelam is well upscale shopping. Mediterranean 731 2465080; opp bus stand; mains run and has simple but clean rooms fare is on order, everything from `250–500; 10am–12am You might need with upgraded bathrooms off a honey-roasted rack of lamb to to holler your order over the buzz, central atrium. great mezze and Moroccan stews. but that’s only a sign of how popular Cocktails (`330 to `400) and wines this veg restaurant is. Great for a quick, no-fuss Indian meal. Hotel Chanakya HOTEL ` are served up in a trendy lounge Indore’s Sarafa Bazaar is the spot % atmosphere with modern city views. 731 2704497; 57/58 RNT Marg, Chhawni Indian for street food Chowk; s/d from `800/900, with AC Coffee House SOUTH INDIAN ` from `1270/1430 Rooms here aren’t 56 Dukan CAFE ` to the bus stand, this restaurant is as flashy as the disco-lit Krishna Old , 56 Dukan St; mains below `100; MG Rd; mains `50–200; 8am–8pm Drink worth a stop for its lassi. Also the waterfall in the entrance hallway but 6am–11.30pm A row of shops (56 once, coffee with Indore’s judiciary at name, which literally translates to they are functional nonetheless. The now much less) makes for a local this Indian Coffee House set inside being vain, is sure to make you smile. cheapest have no windows and it’s favourite hangout. Young Tarang the grounds of the commissioner’s worth paying `100 more for the air- (poha and jalebi), Johny Hotdog office near the district court. A top 7 Shopping cooled ‘semi-deluxe’ AC rooms. The (sizzling egg benjo or mutton spot for breakfast, with dosas and particularly good idli sharing the staff is friendly and the hotel is right burger), Vijay Chaat (nariyal patties) Mrignayanee handicrafts in the heart of an interesting section and Sam’s Momos and Rolls are menu with eggs and toast. % of the old town. There’s no English some of the most famous shops 731 2541945; Mahatma Gandhi Rd sign. Autorickshaws know it by the here. Though the street opens as Hotel Apna INDIAN ` The state-run emporium is an easy shopping destination for famous sweet shop, Mathurawala, early as 6am, the action is in the late Opp Sarvate bus stand; mains `80–190; elegant Chanderi and Maheshwari below it. evening. 11am–11.30pm This restaurant, right saris, textiles, artefacts, Gond art, opposite the Sarvate bus stand, has jewellery, souvenirs and handicrafts Shreemaya Celebration CAFE ` been around more than 50 years and 5 Eating & of the state under one roof. 6 Tuko Ganj; mains `40–190; 7.30am– serves up delicious veg and meat Nightlife 10.30pm This modern bakery next dishes from an all-Indian menu. to Hotel Shreemaya sells pastries, MEDITeRRANEAN ``` Mediterra sandwiches and cakes, as well as Ghamandi Lassi INDIAN ` % 731 4004848; Hotel Sayaji, Vijay Nagar; South Indian, Chinese and pizza. It’s Next to the bus stand; mains less than mains `490–950; 7.30–11.30pm This also a good pick for breakfast. `100; 9am–midnight Located right next 122 Best Trips Indore 123

Detour: Omkareshwar & Maheshwar 4 Accommodation & Demi Moore, Mick Jagger and Sting 5 have all indulged in this heritage Omkareshwar and rivers. Don’t miss the Eating hotel owned by Prince Shivaji Rao beautifully sculpted Siddhanatha Holkar, a 14th-generation Indian- Browse the colourful stalls or join with marvellous elephant American direct descendent of pilgrims at Shri Omkar Mandhata Ahilyabai. Part of Maheshwar carvings around its base. Narmada Resort MPT RESORT `` Temple in this pilgrim town. This Palace, the best rooms come with 79km from Indore/103km from Mandu cave-like temple, which houses a %7280 271455; Near NVD rest house, fabulous river views. Rates include (`9–11 per km, min 250 km per day, plus jyotirlingam is one of many Hindu Khandwa; d `2990 This MPT property all meals as well as boat trips on the `200 driver allowance) monuments on the island. From is a smart option to stay. The river. Booking ahead is essential. the old bridge, head left to the 11th- in-house restaurant offers simple Maheshwar Non-guests who fancy a night to century Gaudi Somnath Temple, homely North Indian, read Punjabi remember should not miss dining The peaceful, riverside town once from where you can descend fare with dal, subji and dahi. here. the hill to the northern tip of the called Mahishmati, still draws island, where sadhus bathe in the pilgrims to its ancient ghats and Manu Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE ` Narmada confluence of the holy Narmada temples on the holy . %9826749004; [email protected]; Retreat MPT RESORT ``` The town is dominated by a 16th- r with shared bathroom `350 Rooms are %8349994784; Narmada Retreat Rd, A weaver working her loom in Maheshwar, century fort built by Emperor Akbar, simple and bathrooms are shared Khargone; d `5220, tents/suite `6500 The famous for its gossamer saris while the Maheshwar Palace and but kept clean. If you ask in advance, MPT resort by the waterfront is a the temples were added during the your hosts can whip up a delicious good option with its gardens, pool reign of 18th-century Holkar queen thali (`100). This is pretty much the and free parking. There’s a multi- Ahilyabai. The palace is part public only place to stay on the island itself cuisine restaurant too. courtyard, part posh hotel. that isn’t a dharamsala. From the ramparts of the fort you Laboo’z Cafe GUESTHOUSE `` Ganesh can see boats (return trip per %7771004818; santosh.ahilyafort@ Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE ` person/boat `50/500) and incense gmail.com; s/d `900/1210, with AC % smoke drifting across the water to 7280 271370; sumitbhoi1137@gmail. from `1430/`1650 (incl breakfast); cafe Baneshwar Temple, located on a com; `250 Budget rooms with thin 6.30am–8pm Not only a delightful tiny island in the middle of the river. mattresses await you here. Upstairs cafe in a glorious tree-shaded Near the palace a small doorway rooms are brighter and have air- courtyard, but also a place with six announces the NGO Rehwa Society coolers, while a shaded garden wonderful rooms to stay in. Each (www.rehwasociety.org; 10am–6pm restaurant overlooking the ghats room is decorated with care. Wed–Mon, shop open daily), a has a multi-cuisine menu including Hansa Heritage HOTEL` craft cooperative for the welfare of western breakfasts. % the weavers. Maheshwari saris are 9827857097; Kila Rd; `700, with AC `1050, ste `1450 Smart, modern famous for their unique weave and Maheshwar simple, geometric patterns. You rooms have a rustic feel with can buy shawls, saris, scarves and Ahilya Fort HERITAGE HOTEL ``` wooden furniture and coloured- fabrics. %7771004811, reservations 9810306178; glass windowpanes. Bathrooms are www.ahilyafort.com; r Indian/foreigner modern and spotlessly clean. Indian Mandu–Maheshwar 63km; cabs charge breakfasts and thalis are available. `8–10 per km, for 250km per day plus driver from `11,750/`18,050 (incl all meals) allowance. 124 Best Trips Indore 125

Expert Recommendation MP’s cricketing legacy

Shamya Dasgupta is Senior Editor with Wisden India and author of Bhiwani Junction – The Untold Story of Boxing in India, and Cricket Changed My life – Stories of Hope and Despair from the IPL and Elsewhere.

Madhya Pradesh has had a long and Jalaj Saxena with cricket. The erstwhile – are also Indore boys. royals have been patrons and players. The game has a loyal Bhopal following in the state and its cities Mansoor Ali Khan, the late nawab of have been witness to some great Pataudi and among India’s greatest games. cricket captains, was born here. Indore Gwalior Cricket flourished here under the Madhavrao Scindia – titular head of patronage of Yeshwantrao Holkar II the once-princely clan, the Scindias in the pre-independence years. The – was president of the Board of great benefitted Control for Cricket in India. This from that benevolence, and the is when the Captain Roop Singh Holkar team won the Stadium, originally a hockey venue, four times between 1940 and 1955. became a cricket stop – a rarity in The city’s Nehru Stadium (capacity: that it’s a cricket stadium named 25,000) has hosted nine One-Day after a hockey legend. It recorded Internationals, the last in 2001. The the first-ever one-day double new was where century (by ). scored 219 against the West Indies in a one-day match Sagar in December 2011. Sau (hundred) and garh (fort), The city has become a cricket hub Saugarh and now Sagar, was where over the years. Gorakhpur-born Chandu Sarwate, who played nine cut his cricketing tests between 1946 and 1951, was teeth in Indore, as did Rajesh born. He also has the distinction Chauhan (from ), Amay of being one-half of the highest Khurasiya (from Jabalpur) and partnership in first-class cricket Naman Ojha (from Ujjain). Two of the between the last two batsmen. state’s best modern-day cricketers – ManyMadhya groups Pradesh’s in Chennai cricketing take historyvisitors includeson heritage memorable walks matches 126 Best Trips Mandu 127

Mandu

Why Go? Perched on top of a pleasantly green forested 20sq km plateau, picturesque Mandu is home to some of India’s finest examples of Sultanate architecture as well as impressive baobab trees, originally from Africa. It is dotted with stunning palaces, tombs, monuments and mosques. Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & Around When To Go Indore is the closest nodal junction Jul–Mar to Mandu (95km) and is well- Great For connected by trains, flights and

road. From Indore, hire a cab at `9–11 per km, minimum of 250km per day, plus driver allowance of `200. Cycles (`100 per day) and autorickshaws are available, but fix the price before setting out.

Jahaz Mahal was built in the 15th century 128 Best Trips Mandu 129

1 Sights Jahaz Mahal Dating from the 15th century, this is Snapshot: Historical legacy There are three main groups of the most famous building in Mandu. ruins in Mandu: the Royal Enclave, Raja , of Bhopal fame, founded Mandu as a fortress retreat in the Built on a narrow strip of land the Village Group and the Rewa 10th century before it was conquered by the Muslim rulers of Delhi in between the Munja and Kapur tanks, Kund Group. Each requires its own 1304. When the Mughals captured Delhi in 1401, the Afghan Dilawar Khan, with a small upper storey like a separate ticket. All other sights are governor of Malwa, set up his own little kingdom and Mandu’s golden age ship’s bridge (use your imagination), free. began. Although Dilawar Khan established Mandu as an independent it’s far longer (120m) than it is wide kingdom, it was his son, Hoshang Shah, who shifted the capital from Dhar (15m) and is a testament to the to Mandu and raised it to its greatest splendour. Royal Enclave evolved water harvesting systems In 1526, Bahadur Shah of Gujarat conquered Mandu, only to be ousted in The Royal Enclave ruins are the of the time. Ghiyas-ud-din, who is 1534 by the Mughal , who in turn lost the kingdom to Mallu Khan, only ones fenced off into one single said to have had a harem of 15,000 an officer of the Khilji dynasty. Ten more years of feuds and invasions saw complex. There’s a Publication maidens, constructed its lookouts, eventually emerge at the top spot, but in 1561 he fled Mandu Sale Counter (9am–5pm) selling scalloped arches, airy rooms and to avoid facing Akbar’s advancing troops. guidebooks, and a shaded garden beautiful pleasure pools. canteen selling tea, coffee and After Akbar added Mandu to the , it kept a considerable Jahaz Mahal Rd; Indian/foreigner `5/100; snacks just to the right of the main degree of independence until taken by the Marathas in 1732. The capital 6am–7pm entrance. of Malwa was then shifted back to Dhar, and the slide in Mandu’s fortunes that had begun with the absconding of Baz Bahadur, became a plummet. Indian/foreigner `5/100, video `25; Taveli Mahal dawn–dusk These former stables now house found here, including 11th- and 12th- owner was more than a shopkeeper. Hindola Mahal or ‘Swing’ Palace has unique a small archaeological museum century sculptures and stone slabs His name, which means ‘beggar architecture which features a handful of artefacts with Quranic text dating back to the master’, is thought to identify him as 15th century. Rajput chief Medini Ray, a powerful 9am–5pm minion of the sultans. The ‘shop’ was a warehouse for saffron and musk, Hindola Mahal imported and sold at a handsome profit when there were enough Just north of Ghiyas’ stately wealthy people to shop here. pleasure dome is Hindola Mahal, so- called because the slope of the walls is supposed to create the impression Mosque of Dilawar Khan that they are swaying. While it Built by Dilawar Khan in 1405, this doesn’t give that impression, it’s an mosque is Mandu’s earliest Islamic eye-catching design nonetheless. building. There are many Hindu Swing Palace elements to the architecture, notably the pillars and ceilings inside, which was typical for this era. Palace & Shop of Gada Shah The house is within the enclave, but Champa Baoli the shop is outside on the road to Delhi Gate. As the buildings’ size and So called because its water internal workmanship suggest, their supposedly smelled as sweet 130 Best Trips Mandu 131

inscription records Shah Jahan Indian/foreigner `5/100, video `25; dawn– sending his architects – including dusk Ustad Hamid, who worked on the – here in 1659 to pay their Baz Bahadur’s Palace respects to the tomb’s builders. Baz Bahadur was the last independent ruler of Mandu. His Ashrafi Mahal palace, constructed around 1509, Mohammed Shah originally built his is beside the Rewa Kund tank tomb as a madrasa (Islamic college), where a water lift at the northern before converting and extending end supplied water to the palace. it. The overambitious design later A curious mix of Rajasthani and collapsed – notably the seven-storey Mughal styles, it was actually built circular tower of victory. The building decades before Baz Bahadur came is an empty shell, but intricate to power. Islamic pillar work can be seen at the top of its great stairway. Rupmati’s Pavilion Standing at the top of a cliff plunging Champa Baoli is a step-well named after the Jama Masjid Rewa Kund Group 366m to the plains, Rupmati’s A pleasant 4km-cycle south of the Pavilion has a beauty unmatched by champa flower Entered by a flight of steps village Mandu, past Sagar Talao, the other monuments – and some leading to a 17m-high domed as the champak flower, Champa brings you to two more ruins. Tickets porch, this disused red-stone Baoli is a step-well surrounded by for both should be bought from Rupmati’s Pavilion finds mention in Malwa mosque dominates the village of subterranean vaulted chambers, outside Baz Bahadur’s Palace. legends on love Mandu. Hoshang Shah began its some of which you can explore. construction around 1406, basing it on the great Umayyad Mosque in Turkish Bath Damascus in Syria, and Mohammed Stars and octagons perforate the Khilji completed it in 1454. Despite domed roofs of this tiny hammam its plain design, it’s reckoned to be (Turkish bath), which had hot the finest and largest example of and cold water and a hypocaust Sultanate architecture in India. (underfloor heated) sauna. Hoshang’s Tomb Village Group Reputed to be India’s oldest marble The Village Group located by the building, this imposing tomb is bus stand in the centre of the village, crowned with a crescent thought contains three monuments. The to have been imported from Persia ticket office is at the entrance to or Mesopotamia. Inside, light filters Jama Masjid; one ticket covers all into the echoing dome through three sights. stone jaalis (carved lattice screens), Indian/foreigner `5/100, video `25; dawn– intended to cast an appropriately dusk subdued light on the tombs. An 132 Best Trips Mandu 133

his lover to poison herself go the of Shatrunjaya, the hilltop temple 4 Accommodation legends. complex at Palitana in Gujarat. In the colourful murals, bears devour You get noticeably less for your sinners’ arms, crocodiles chew their money in Mandu and wi-fi is hard to Other Sights heads, and demons saw one evil come by. character in half, lengthways. Neelkanth Palace Hotel Rupmati HOTEL `` If you’re looking for a great reason Saturday Haat %7292 2652; Main Rd; r from `1750, with to cycle out into the countryside, This colourful weekly haat (market) AC `2100 Clean and colourful rooms consider visiting this unusual former behind Jama Masjid, is similar to with large bathrooms are perched palace turned temple. It stands at ones held all over the Bastar region, on the edge of a cliff with great views the head of a ravine, on the site of a tribal stronghold of Chhattisgarh. of the valley below. Air-con itself an earlier Shiva shrine – Neelkanth Adivasis (tribespeople) walk (and a little less upkeep) is the only or the God with a Blue Throat – and kilometres to come here to buy and difference between the non-AC and is now once again used as a place sell goods ranging from mountains AC rooms. There’s a restaurant and of worship. A stream, built by one of of red chillies to dried mahua (a delightful lawn for outdoor eating Akbar’s governors, trickles through flower used to make a potent liquor with views. a delightful spiral channel and is of the same name). A local variety of usually filled with sweet-scented tamarind that is sold outside makes water. for a tangy snack. Bite into piping hot samosas during a Murals depict folktales on the walls of the To get here, cycle south along Main 10am–dusk halt at Mandu Jain Temple Road for less than 1km until you see a large white water tower. Turn of the dinkiest stone staircases right here and follow the road as it you’ll ever climb. According to twists and turns past villages all the Malwa legends, the music-loving way to Neelkanth (about 2km). You Baz Bahadur built it to persuade a can continue from here, past more beautiful Hindu singer, Rupmati, to remote villages, for about another move here from her home on the kilometre to reach the still-standing plains. From its terrace and domed gateway of the now ruined Songarh pavilions, Rupmati could gaze down Fort, from where there are more at the distant glint of the sacred great views. Narmada River. In fact, the pavilion was built in two or three phases and the style of Jain Temple its arches and pillars suggests it Entered by a kaleidoscopic potpourri was completed 100 years before of colour, this complex is a splash Rupmati’s time. Nonetheless, the of kitsch among the Islamic love story is a subject of Malwa folk monuments. The richly decorated songs – not least because of its temples feature marble, silver and tragic ending. Lured by Rupmati’s gold Tirthankaras with jade eyes beauty, the emperor attacked the and behind them is a theme park- fort and Baz Bahadur fled, leaving like museum with a walk-on replica 134 Best Trips Mandu 135

Malwa Retreat mpstdc `` 5 Eating %7292 263221; www.mptourism.com; Snapshot: The filmi connection Main Rd; r/tents `2050/3650, with AC Shivani Restaurant INDIAN ` Madhya Pradesh has a long time Paan Singh Tomar (2012) The `3230 This is MP Tourism’s cheaper Main Rd; mains `60–180, thali `80–180; association with Bollywood. Stars biopic of the sportsman turned option, with air-cooled and air-con 9am–10pm The subtle canteen-style like Johnny Walker, Jaya Bachchan dacoit of the Chambal valley was rooms and nicely appointed tents interior of this no-nonsense diner and Arjun Rampal hail from here. filmed across Morena in MP. with valley views. The newish spick- with plastic tables and chairs Renowned singer Lata Mangeshkar and-span Malwa Retreat Cafeteria is Bhopal: A Prayer for Rain (2014) is appreciatively understated was born in Indore. The Madhya a step up for Mandu’s dining scene Martin Sheen, Mischa Barton and compared with the gaudy exterior, Pradesh government instituted and the reception doubles as the Kal Penn act in this drama about but it’s the good, honest and cheap the Lata Mangeshkar award in the Tourist Interpretation Centre, where the gas tragedy at the Union food that overshadows both. The 1980s in her honour. Carbide factory in Bhopal. you can arrange local guides, (half- menu is extensive and includes solid Bhopal Express (1999) The film Lion (2016) The biopic film on little day `375), being close to the village. thalis plus local specialities such as about a young married couple Saroo from Khandwa in MP who Mandu kofta (dumplings in a mild Malwa Resort mpstdc `` who fall victim to the gas leak was adopted by a family in Australia sauce). South Indian breakfasts are tragedy in 1984 starred Kay Kay % won hearts and awards. 7292 263235; www.mptourism.com; also available, as are lassi and coffee. Menon, Nethra Raghuraman and Main Rd; r with AC from `4070 The best It also has open-air ‘garden’ seating Naseeruddin Shah. thing about this family-friendly MP across the street. The marble rocks feature prominently Asoka (2001) Bollywood A-listers Tourism property, 2km south of in Asoka Shah Rukh Khan and Kareena the village, is the morning chai in INDIAN ` Yatrika Kapoor acted in this period epic the lakeside gazebo, watching local Main Rd; mains `90–280; 8–10am, drama on Emperor Ashoka. fishermen cast their nets over Sagar noon–3pm & 7–10pm This small cafe The film’s locations included Talao lake. Otherwise, there are large at Malwa Retreat dishes out veg Pachmarhi, Hoshangabad, the gardens dotted with comfortable and non-veg Indian meals in very majestic Ahilya Fort and the marble cottages, children’s play areas, and a flashy contemporary premises with rocks off among other pool, restaurant and bar. an open kitchen. If you want a cold picturesque locations across the beer you’ll need to head to the sister state. Rama Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE ` property, the Malwa Resort. Peepli Live (2010) The modern % 7292 263251; `300, without bathroom satire on televised fake news was `200 Made up of a row of simple 7 Shopping filmed at Badwai village and in and rooms off a courtyard that leads around Bhopal. to the small Rama Temple, HANDICRAFTS Rajneeti (2011) A political thriller accommodation here is slightly more Roopayan with Ranbir Kapoor, Katrina Kaif atmospheric than fellow budget Main Rd; 9am–7pm Next to Malwa and Arjun Rampal. Locations choices. Some bathrooms have Resort, this small shop sells good- included and Kotra showers and sit-down flush toilets, quality scarves, shawls, bed spreads, Sultanabad. but these are still very basic digs. and garments made from material Walk through an archway between that has been block-printed in the Aarakshan (2011) Bhopal’s Badi two shops by the bus stand to get nearby village of Bagh. Jheel or Upper Lake and here. The reception is beyond the played backdrop to dramatic rooms, inside the temple grounds, scenes in this Bachchan starrer. 136 Best Trips Jabalpur 137

Jabalpur

Why Go? Domestic tourists mostly come here to visit the Marble Rocks, an attractive river gorge, but foreigners use it mainly as a launch pad for the famous tiger parks – Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Pench.

Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & AROUND Autorickshaws are usually double Air India flies to Delhi on Monday, the price. Wednesday and Friday. SpiceJet When To Go flies to Delhi and Mumbai daily. Nov–Mar More than 10 daily trains leave for Great For Satna, from where you can proceed

to Khajuraho. For Bandhavgarh National Park, take a train to Umaria. In the city, a cycle-rickshaw from the train station to Russel Chowk is `25.

White mineral deposits gleam on the Marble Rocks on the River Narmada 138 Best Trips Jabalpur 139

1 Sights boatsmen also sing local ditties as bathroom – with modern fixtures. they row you down the river. Free wi-fi throughout. Museum Bhedaghat, 22km from Jabalpur Kalchuri Residency mpstdc `` A collection of 10th-century Tilwara Ghat % sculptures is on display, while 761 2678491; www.mptourism.com; upstairs are galleries for stone and A ghat on the Narmada River, stands South Civil Lines; s/d from `3860/4200 copper inscriptions, ancient coins in memory of Mahatma Gandhi, (incl breakfast) One of the nicest MP and photographs of Bhedaghat’s 64 whose ashes were also brought Tourism properties in the state, this Yogini Temple. here after his death. Visit the government hotel is located in the quieter Civil Lines area just south of Indian/foreigner `10/100, camera/video Tilwadeshwar Temple for Shiva here. the train station. It has large, modern `50/200; 10am–5pm Tue–Sun Near Marble Rocks; dawn–dusk deluxe AC rooms with spacious bathrooms. Standard AC rooms Beohar Palace Tiger Safari are nearly as good. There’s a nice This agency – involved in tiger Visit the historic and striking palace restaurant (mains `130 to `310) and conservation – can customise of the Beohars. The palace was a a spacious pub (beer from `225). River Narmada is the lifeline of safari tours throughout eastern MP. focal point when Gandhi, Nehru and other leaders stayed in the army Madhya Pradesh Photography wildlife tours are a Lodge Shivalaya HOTEL ` speciality, and they handle birding city of Jabalpur in 1933. Gandhi’s %761 2625188; Napier Town; s/d from afraid to spice things up with their and cultural itineraries as well. memorabilia are also showcased. `460/560, r with AC from `1200 (incl fiery gravies (mutton curry, kadhai % Beohar–Niwas Rd 8120445454; www.thetigersafari.com; breakfast) Rooms are basic, but are chicken). Eat up. `13,500 to `66,000 per day for customised clean enough for one night and safaris for two people all-inclusive of vehicle, 4 Accommodation & come with TVs and small bathrooms. Indian accommodation, tours etc 5 Eating The first floor rooms open onto a Coffee House SOUTH INDIAN ` large shared balcony. Marble Rocks www.indiancoffeehousejabalpur.com; Hotel Hotel Wardhman HOTEL `` India; coffee from `10, mains from `60; Carved by the Narmada River, this Yellow Chilli NORTH INDIAN ``` %761 4006002; www.hotelwardhman.com; 7am–10pm Classic for filter coffee and naturally occurring gorge looms www.theyellowchilli.com; Dixit Pride, Napier South Indian breakfasts. over the river for 3km. The name Russel Crossing; s/d from `1440/1680 (incl breakfast) The Wardhman is Russel Town; mains `240–360; noon–midnight ‘marble’ is attributed to the high-on- This higher-end Indian chain, the magnesium white look of the craggy Chowk’s best deal. Rooms are new 7 Shopping and clean – save the odd musty domain of celeb chef Sanjeev rocks. It makes for a picnic spot. The Kapoor, is a gastro-godsend in handicrafts Jabalpur. The khurcha saag murgh Mrignayanee was our favourite dish in all of MP. Civic centre, Marhatal The state-run Detour: Ghughua Fossil Park emporium is an easy shopping destination for elegant Chanderi and The Ghughua Fossil National Park, in Dindori district, has yielded precious Saheb’s Maheshwari saris, textiles, artefacts, plant fossils over 60 million years old that date back to the Food Junction MUGHLAI `` Gond art, jewellery, souvenirs and supercontinent time. It was declared a National Park in 1983. Plant fossils Russel Chowk; meals `80–300; 11am– handicrafts of Madhya Pradesh of 18 family species have been discovered here, including eucalyptus, date 11.30pm Offering the best non-veg in under one roof. palm, banana, jamun and more. These are displayed in a tiny museum. Russel Chowk, this restaurant isn’t 105km west from Jabalpur railway station; best reached by road 140 Best Trips Kanha National Park 141

Kanha National Park

Why Go? Madhya Pradesh is the king of the jungle when it comes to tiger parks, and Kanha is the most famous. The precious forest of Kanha is vast, a real Kipling territory, offering you a complete safari experience. Tigers, leopards and huge populations of deer and antelope, including the rare barasingha (deer) reside in the sal forests and vast meadows. The park is also home to more than 300 bird species. Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & AROUND tourist activity. Khatia Gate in Khatia The closest airports to Kanha lie village is quite popular; other gates in Jabalpur (133km) and Nagpur into the park include Mukki, 45km (261km). From here, pick-ups can southeast of Khatia, and Sarhi, be arranged by the resort you’re 60km northeast. staying in at an additional cost. When To Go Jabalpur, Nagpur and Gondia serve Mar–May as rail junctions. Mumbai and Delhi are connected to these by a vast Great For network of trains. There are three entry points for Kanha, of which only two have major

Kanha is a famous park to spot tigers on a safari 142 Best Trips Kanha National Park 143

1 Sights You’ll see plenty of langur monkeys, the odd gaur (Indian bison) maybe Top Tip: Knowing the big cats even a family or two of wild boar The Forest and the odd lone jackal or two. The highlights of the forest include Munna, the male, which has prominent There are four zones inside the There are two safari slots each day: stripes on his forehead that spell CAT. Link 7, Kingfisher, Bawa, Chhoti forest; Kanha, Sarhi, Kisli and morning (roughly 6am to 11am) and Mada and Bheem are the other popular tigers. The hard ground swamp Mukki. Of these, Kanha is the most afternoon (roughly 3pm to 6pm). deer (barasingha) is unique to this topography – it is not found anywhere attractive to visitors, affording The morning safaris are longer else in Central India. more sightings than the others and tend to produce more tiger although this obviously depends sightings. 4 Accommodation & Kipling Camp HOTEL ``` on the movement of animals. The ` Kanha zone Indian/foreigner 1980/4010, %11 65196377; www.kiplingcamp.com; River Banjar cuts through the ` 5 Eating other zones Indian/foreigner 1370/2690, Mocha Village; American plan d deluxe/ forest as the key water provider to ` Gypsy (4WD) 2500/3000 (depending private cottage `9400/10,500 (incl the animals. ` Inside the forest on the pick-up point) plus 300 for forest activities) A wonderful, laid-back Gonds and Baiga tribals live in this guides Note, while lodgings in the buffer wildlife lodge hosted by one of region, still keeping their traditions Timings: Summer 5.30–11am, 3.30–6.45pm; zone enjoy a wonderfully natural India’s most formidable tiger alive, but slightly urbanised thanks Winter 6-11am, 2.30–5.30pm forest location, there are no facilities proponents, former Nat Geo to the resorts that employ many of that are available in the village that photographer Belinda Wright. It’s them. A walking trip to these villages lies just outside the park. You’ll as informative as it is relaxing to Kanha is home to tribals, woodlands and makes for an interesting orientation need to have a room booked here stay in this jungle setting where wild animals to the tribal culture of the region. in advance in order to get past wildlife discussions follow excellent security at Khatia Gate. If you’re communal meals (Indian for lunch, walking in, book at the MP Tourism Continental for dinner) and guests Tourist Information Booth next to retire to rustic-chic lodges slightly Khatia Gate. Certain resorts offer scented with the essence of English the American Plan (that includes the colonialism. Nature abounds in cost of meals too besides lodging). the fenceless grounds where Check while booking.

Banjaar Tola Resort ``` If You Like: %9303651100: www.tajsafaris.com; Kanha Corbett Foundation National Park; d `50,500 (incl 2 safaris, all meals) The super luxury camp set up Visit the prestigious foundation by Taj Safaris is known to transport for an insight into wildlife you to an ethereal atmosphere. conservation, awareness, tribal Expect other worldly amenities and livelihoods through a museum facilities, despite having a camp-like and special initiatives for the local feel to the accommodation. The community. tented suites are pitched next to %7636 290300; www.corbettfoundation. the Banjar River; bird songs and the org; Kanha office, village Baherakhar, Near sound of the river are as relaxing as Baihar, P.O. Nikkum, Dist. Balaghat a lullaby. 144 Best Trips Kanha National Park 145

langurs and chitals make regular decor and furnishings, and rooms travellers. Surrounded by a thicket, resort, who accompany guests to appearances, only to be outshined overlooking a small lake or a copse you feel that you’re in the heart of the forests. by an occasional tiger and leopard of trees is all one wants to be one the jungle anyway – the sounds of flyby. You can also swim in the river with nature. Chitvan offers just that. the forest only enforce the sense of Tuli Tiger Resort RESORT ``` with Tara, the camp’s memorable The personal terrace is the most nature and solitude. %7489 611006; www.tulihotels.com; near 55-year-old elephant, a truly coveted place for the guests, where Khatia Gate; American plan cottage/tent extraordinary experience. they can slowly sip their tea and take Khatia (Kisli side) d from `6,500/11,000 Wake up to the in the sounds from the jungle. sound of chirping birds or the cheeky Mukki Gate Kanha Earth Lodge RESORT ``` calls of langurs close to your window. Salban– Homestay Bamboo thickets and mixed trees %124 2970497; www.kanhaearthlodge. The Kanha Homestay ``` grow on the property itself, inducting Singinawa com; near Khatia Gate; American plan d from % you into the jungle just as you step Jungle Lodge RESORT ``` 7692835206/9818403038; facebook/ `18,000 Located adjacent to a small salbankanhahomestay; for bookings in. The refreshing yellow colour adds %124 4908610; www.singinawajunglelodge. tribal hamlet, Kanha Earth Lodge sits [email protected]; Baherakhar an endearing charm to the ambience com; near Mukki Gate; American plan d from on 16 acres of natural forest land and Village; s/d `5000,7000 (incl meals) of the ivy-clad cottages. A swimming `14,500 Award winning hospitality prides itself on converting even the Foodies first, a former travel pool, spa and pavilions to relax are awaits at Singinawa. Apart from most ardent wildlife non-enthusiast publisher and a wildlife professional part of the resort. the luxurious rooms with superior into a nature lover. The warm came together to build a home in the amenities, it is the 1000sq ft hospitality and attention to detail is jungle. What’s to complain about? museum celebrating the history of commendable, as is the knowledge Salban–The Kanha Homestay offers a comfy You get up and close to the jungle the Gond and Baiga tribes that is the of the naturalist and manager of the stay in the jungle and enjoy the comforts of homey most fascinating part of the lodge. living in this sprawling homestead with sal and fruit trees. Huge RESORT ``` Infinity Resorts verandahs, roomy ensuite bedrooms %9650193662; www.infinityresorts. and a library make your stay comfy. com; near Mukki Gate; American plan d They also arrange jungle walks, lake from `8000 Choose from large villas visits and safaris, if you request in or tented style rooms at Infinity advance. Resorts, where the local Gond art is integrated with the design. The Muba at Mukki RESORT ``` resort has an amply rustic vibe %9303037453; www.mubaresorts.com; about it that fits in well with the Village Bahmani; d mud house/deluxe/ travel theme. It is fairly close to the cottage `4800/5000/8000 Located park and the resort can arrange the slightly away from the gate of safaris with ease for you. the jungle, Muba offers a taste of the rustic countryside in its rESORT ``` Chitvan Jungle Lodge surroundings, in contrast with the %8860518887; www.chitvan.com; near plush interiors that you can relax in Mukki Gate; American plan ste from `8000 at the resort. The great part of Muba The four different kinds of suites is that it offers multiple options in in the resort echo with the jungle different price brackets, ensuring atmosphere. Soothing colours of the that it appeals to a larger variety of 146 Best Trips Kanha National Park 147

and airy and set around a pleasant, handicrafts made by the tribals of garden. It’s a well-oiled family-run the region. It has a lot to choose operation, and Rahul, the owner/ from for small souvenirs. manager, nails five-star service for three-star prices. From breakfast Aranyak HANDICRAFTS on, the food is outstanding – they even use milk from their own two Khatia Gate, Opp Motel Chandan; 9am–9pm Holsteins. Wi-fi throughout. Aranyak Art Emporium is one of the few bonafide souvenir shops near Motel Chandan HOTEL `` the Khatia Gate of Kanha National Park. Tribal inspired handicrafts are % 7649 277220, 9425855220; www. available here. The shop may remain motelchandan.com; `1000–1400, with AC closed during off-season. `2100 You get great-value modern rooms, some with teak-wood accents, right in Khatia village. The owner organises safaris with four of his own 4WDs and two resident naturalists. American plan (meals included) runs `500 extra per A breakfast buffet at Singinawa Jungle Lodge person.

Machan Complex GUESTHOUSE ` %9993672827; dm `100, `500–700 Machan has bucket hot-water Courtyard House HOMESTAY ``` Kahna Earth Lodge brings you close to the rooms in different buildings, set around a huge banyan tree. There’s % jungle experience 9425153571; www.courtyardhousekanha. a new dorm building, basic mud- com; near Khatia Gate; American plan d from Pugmark Resort HOTEL ``` hut doubles, and larger rooms with `6,500 The home styled Courtyard sit-down flush toilets. The owner, %7649 277291; www.pugmarkresort.com; House is one of the most charming Anil, is a naturalist and extremely American plan d luxury cottage/pool villa properties in Kanha. Choose the welcoming. About 1km before Khatia room `9500/25000 These spacious upper floor that has rooms that Gate, on the right. overlook the pool below and the village-like cottages in Khatia are forest canopy in the distance. just a step above basic but bright 7 Shopping

If You Like: MPSTDC options Kaladirgha HAndicrafts Mocha Baghira Jungle Resort %7649 277244; near Kisli Gate; `3,790– %7642 291859; 6am–10pm; closed 4,990 Located on the banks of the Banjar River, the resort offers AC rooms July–Oct Located close to Mandla and can arrange nature walks and village visits. gate, the shop is packed with wildlife themed bric-a-brac – tees, magnets, Kanha Safari Lodge %7636 290715; 500km from Mukki Gate; `3590– 4,990 This is a good mid-range option and is family friendly. caps etc. The other half has metal 148 Best Trips Kanha National Park 149

Expert Recommendation Safari watch

Dr K. Ullas Karanth is Director for Science-Asia, Wildlife Conservation Society. He shares some tips on how sensitivity goes a long way whilst on a safari.

• Are you on a tiger safari? Follow growl. Total silence enhances the all the rules of the park and listen quality of such a ‘tiger experience’, to your guide. Some basics first: no even when you do not actually see music, no loud chatter, no leaning the cat. out of or getting off your vehicle. • Your vehicles or elephants Wear field clothes that blend with crowding around a tiger, which nature: monkeys and birds that warn clearly shows its unease by growling, other creatures do spot obvious snarling or twitching its ears is not colours. Take a pair of binoculars at all a worthwhile ‘tiger experience’. along and a camera with a 300 mm Do not practise or encourage such or longer telephoto lens if you are a bad behaviour. Maintaining the photographer. officially prescribed distances and • Tigers are generally shy of being time interval specified for watching watched; what you can expect is tigers will improve the quality of a fleeting glimpse in most parks. experience for both visitors and Yet, due to persistent efforts some tigers! Conservation India’s excellent tigers can be spotted, particularly guidelines (www.conservationindia. in the reserves of Central India org/resources/ethics) should be and Rajasthan. This affords you a taken to heart. wonderful opportunity, which even • The jungle is full of other a sharp hunter or mighty king had interesting sights, sounds and not enjoyed. Be grateful for that; smells that you can soak up. There reflect for a moment about the hard are myriad other animals, plants work and past sacrifices of many and even rock formations that are foresters, conservationists and local fascinating in their own right. Get people who have opened a window rid of the trivial mindset that you are for you now. Think of how you can in the jungle only for the tiger, and help local conservation efforts. not for these other natural wonders • For a quality ‘tiger experience’, around you. If you really want to see learn to appreciate the cues all only tigers, go to the nearest good around you–alarm calls of various zoo. It is cheaper and more efficient. species, tracks in the dust, a distant ManyA spotted groups deer in and Chennai langur take in Bandhavgarh visitors on heritage walks 150 Best Trips Bandhavgarh National Park 151

Bandhavgarh National Park

Why Go? If your sole reason for visiting a national park in India is to see a tiger, look no further. Bandhavgarh is India’s top tiger playground and a couple of days here should net you a tiger sighting in this relatively small park. Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & AROUND Tala is the best option. There are The closest airport to Bandhavgarh 20 Gypsys that enter from this National Park is Jabalpur (200km) gate each time. The other gates, and flights ply from Delhi/Mumbai Khitauli and Mugdhi, allow 15 and By train, reach the closest nodal 20, respectively. Most resorts lie on junctions of Umaria (35km, `1000 the Tala side. by cab), Katni (100km, `2500) or When To Go take an overnight train from Bhopal. Mar–May (Jun–Oct park closed) If you are covering a larger park trail by road, cabs are the best bet; else Great For ask your hotel for a pickup. The forest has three gates, of which

Bandhavgarh National Park is India’s popular tiger destination 152 Best Trips Bandhavgarh National Park 153

1 Sights sighted animals such as deer, wild boar and langurs. Top Tip: Animal watch The Forest The park takes its name from an ancient fort perched on top Bamera, a handsome male tiger, who died in June 2016, has inspired Primarily a sal tree forest, of 800m-high cliffs. According legends around his sightings. Monnga, Kankati, Bheem and Bhagoda are Bandhavgarh National Park to the Ramayana, the fort was a the other big cats who are star attractions for tiger watchers and wildlife stretches over 1150sq km and came brother’s home-gift, or Rama’s enthusiasts. Other animals like wild boar, sambars, sloth bears, leopards, under Project Tiger in 1993. As an gift to Lakshmana. Its ramparts jackals, hyenas and over 250 species of birds and a large number of erstwhile hunting reserve of the provide a home for vultures, blue amphibians are also present in the forests. maharajas of Rewa, this land was a rock thrushes and crag martins. rich repository of tigers, with 111 of There are other monuments that lie relatively small park. them becoming game by 1914. The 4 Accommodation & dilapidated now with centuries of www.bandhavgarhnationalpark.com 5 forest became world renowned when weathering. Below that, the forest Eating a small population of white tigers Tala Indian/foreigner `2690/5330, others is a blanket of green with a mix of Indian/foreigner `1370/2690 plus Gypsy was found here. Go here to immerse sal and bamboo trees, and the River Bagh Sarai RESORT ``` in the cathartic atmosphere of the `2200 plus `500 for the forest guides (per Charnaganga runs through it. A 6 in a Gypsy) %9818680958; www.baghsarai.com; rich biodiversity of the forest. couple of days here should reward American plan deluxe private bungalow Timings: Summer 5.30–11am, 3.30–6.45pm The forest boasts of a high density of you a tiger sighting as this is a `6950 Bagh Sarai offers private (sunset), Winter 6–11am, 2.30–5.30pm Royal Bengal tigers (68 as of 2013). bungalows in the thick of the forest. (sunset); timings change by a few minutes There are also more than 40 rarely Bandhavgarh’s ancient ruins refer to the The centre building is where all daily seen leopards and more commonly Ramayana legend guests meet in the evenings to discuss the sightings of the day. A Interpretation Centre drink from ‘Jackal’s House’, the in- Find interesting exhibits at this house bar follows. museum detailing the history and legends of Bandhavgarh, plus some Bandhav Vilas RESORT ``` superb tiger photos on the 1st floor. % It’s on your right just before the 9810726252; www.bandhavvilas.com; ` village. American plan d villa 9000 Bandhav Vilas has over 1,000sq feet spread 11am–1.30pm & 6–8pm, closed Wed evening out with rooms that are refreshingly luxurious with open showers, herbal MP Tourism Canter accessories and plush decor. Despite Book one of MP Tourism’s two 12- that, one feels in rhythm with nature. seat canters, which only traverse Maybe it has something to do with the Magdhi and Khitauli zones of the more earthy influences like a large park for a safari experience. stone statue of sleeping Vishnu, %7627 265366; www.mptourism.com; which greets visitors at the entrance White Tiger Forest Lodge; Indian/foreigner of the resort. A wide courtyard `1200/2400 doubles as an amphitheatre where local performances are held in the 154 Best Trips Bandhavgarh National Park 155

evening, surrounded by the dining Kings Lodge HOTEL ``` and reassembled each season 5m area and a few rooms. off the ground in all their luxurious %124 2970497; www.pugdundeesafaris. glory. Beautiful four-poster beds and com; d American plan `18,000 Located Samode in the heart of tiger country, Kings spacious outdoor porches frame Safari Lodge RESORT ``` Lodge is one of the old resorts the jungle surrounds, and privacy is paramount. %9810726252; www.samode.com; d that etched the importance of eco American plan `66,550 (incl 2 safaris) conscious accommodations in Located away from the entry gate the region – in its own rustic yet White Tiger of the forest, Samode allows you to luxurious way. Steeped in love for Forest Lodge MPSDtc `` experience and immerse yourself wildlife, this is usually the pad for www.mptourism.com; Village Tala; in the local culture as well as many photography workshops and American plan `4490, with AC `4990 orientation to one of the best jungles talks. Every evening is reserved onwards Located just 2 km from the of India. Unmatched hospitality and for wildlife themed movies. You Bandhavgarh National Park, this luxury is the theme of the lodge that can choose between rooms that MPSTDC property offers furnished tops honeymoon and safari lists for are close to the main building with rooms featuring modern amenities. travellers from across the world. Its the dining room, or away into the A bar, restaurant, swimming pool Luxury set in rustic surrounds awaits at vernacular architecture is the best silence. and massage centre offer plenty of Kings Lodge part of the resort. options to indulge. The resort is used Nature for conferences and tours to the morning safari. Real filter coffee or The MPSTDC-run White Tiger Forest Lodge is Heritage Resort HOTEL ``` National Park. lemongrass chai, fresh fruit, porridge near the park %7653 265351; www.natureheritageresort. and lentil pancakes typically find com; American plan d from `7500 A Tigergarh LODGE `` their way to your plate. This is also wonderful mid-range choice with %7489826868; www.tigergarh.com; s/d an excellent souvenir shop – Neelam a slick safari operation. The very `4000/4500, d American plan `5000/5500 spends two to three months per year comfortable adobe-toned cottages, (incl breakfast)This 11-room relative driving herself around India picking strewn amid a wealth of bamboo- newcomer sits under the nose of up wares – and is also the local accented everything, approach the surrounding mountains and Western Union rep. boutique levels, and service is on integrates with nearby villages in an point. Rooms 109 and 110 catch the organic manner. The peaceful place Kolkata Restaurant DHABA `` lobby-only wi-fi. The owner survived and the fashionable country-style Tala Main Rd; mains `70–330, thali `140; a tiger attack in 2003 – ask him cottages provide comfort for the 8am–9pm Friendly chef-owner Amal about it! price, including four-poster beds and Jana is a one-man show at this rain-style showers. glorified dhaba in the middle of the Treehouse Hideaway HOTEL ``` village where he whips up homely %124 4222657; www.treehousehideaway. Malaya Cafe CAFE `` and tasty thalis – he reckons it’s com; s/d American plan `15,000/17,000, Tala Main Rd; snacks `10–120, breakfast due to the mustard oil – that can be Jungle Plan `28,000/30,000 With `350; 9.30am–8pm This welcoming kicked up a notch with a side of his undoubtedly the most special cafe run by an extroverted Gujarati spicy tomato chutney. Omelettes, beds in Bandhavgarh, these five woman does fabulous three-course Chinese and limited Continental massive tree houses clock in at brunches (bookings essential) dishes are also available. 625sq m each and are dismantled that are the perfect finish to a 156 Best Trips Bandhavgarh National Park 157

Expert Recommendation Beyond the big cat

Bhavna Menon works as a project coordinator with Last Wilderness Foundation, an NGO working towards wildlife conservation. Here is her list for animal watch.

• Bandhavgarh With the highest • Pench Tiger Reserve Kipling’s density of tigers, this is the best inspiration, the forests are true chance to spot the big cat and for Bagheera country, dotted with photo ops. The park has leopards, hills and rocky terrains with the sloth bears, jackals, foxes, gaur snaking through the and herbivores like sambar, chital, reserve. Tiger sightings are good barking deer etc. as are sightings of other animals. • Satpura Tiger Reserve Named A photographer’s delight. after the ‘seven hills’ range, this • The best picturesque reserve has hills, maintained park in central India, ravines, gorges and backwaters. Kanha, with its lush sal forests, This tiger reserve also has leopards is stunning. It is also home to the and sloth bears and migratory birds. endangered barasingha (swamp Resorts offer boating on Denwa deer) not found in other central backwaters, night walks and village Indian parks. Kanha is also popular walks. for birding. • Panna Tiger Reserve Panna, • Sanjay – Dubri Sanjay – Dubri with its stunning landscape and is part of the same contiguous a healthy tiger population, offers forest. Sanjay is a tiger reserve and many photo opportunities including Dubri forms the wildlife sanctuary riverscapes and dappled grasslands. with blackbuck, common Indian Visit Dudhwa to sight vultures and fox and civet populations. Sanjay the occasional falcon. Jungle cats, has a successful tiger breeding leopards, wild dogs, sloth bears, programme. sambar, chital, nilgai and porcupines coexist with the big cats.

Madhya Pradesh has a large population of avians like this Tickell’s Manyblue flycatcher groups in Chennai take visitors on heritage walks 158 Best Trips Panna National Park 159

Panna National Park

Why Go? Refreshingly remote, the Panna experience is more relaxed than the other forests, where the scramble to see a tiger can sometimes overtake the experience of the jungle. Incessant birdsong and the gurgle of the keeps you company. Keep your fingers crossed to see a tigress walk her cubs nonchalantly in front of you. Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & AROUND When To Go The nearest airport to Panna is Mar–May (Jul–Oct park closed) Khajuraho (24km). The city is well- Great For connected to major Indian towns,

especially those in the tourist sector like Varanasi and Delhi. Satna is the closest rail head (75km). In fact, the roads from key cities and from Bhopal are also good, but during the monsoons, add a couple of hours to your commute.

Panna National Park by the Ken River offers a picturesque jungle experience 160 Best Trips Panna National Park 161

1 Sights 72km inside the park are something the Panna National Park. forest. The main building overlooks that no other national park in the %773 2275235; www.kenriverlodge.com; the Ken River below. region can offer. The deep gorges The Forest Indian/foreigner `6000/7000 formed by the Ken River are the Panna Tiger Resort HOTEL ``` In 2009, Panna National Park highlight of the forest – they make Boat Ride on the River %712 6653666; www.tulihotels.com; was devoid of all tiger population the topography unique. There are A boat ride on the Ken River offers American plan d `6550 Choose the outer and came under the project of two entry points to Panna National an exciting opportunity to see the wing of the Panna Tiger Resort that rehabilitating those from Kanha Park: Madla and Hinauta, of which river crocodiles up close. overlooks the River Ken. The bright and Bandhavgarh. The 547sq km of the former is used more actively. forested land is replete with other Indian per boat/foreigner per head white rooms and the outside pavilion Indian/foreigner `1320/2640 per jeep plus animals like the leopard, chital, `200/1000. shine through as great features for Gypsy cost and forest guard `300 per jeep. chinkara, nilgai, sambhar and sloth the resort. (6 people in one jeep) plus `2000 per Gypsy bear. This, along with over 200 Timings: 5.30–10.30am and 4.00–6.45pm 4 species of birds and ample reptiles, Accommodation & Jungle Camp mpstdc `` (changes everyday by 10–15 minutes 5 makes the forest an essential on the Eating %773 2275275; www.mptourism.com; depending on the sunrise and sunset) travel list. The ghariyals (crocodiles) tent d `2990 (breakfast additional) in the Ken River that flows for over Ken River Lodge LODGE ``` Run by Madhya Pradesh Tourism, Night Safari %773 2275235; www.kenriverlodge.com; d Jungle Camp is a superior tented The Ken River Lodge offers a unique A night safari organised in the buffer American plan cottages/huts `11,000/8000 accommodation with en suite night safari zone, is also an exclusive aspect of The wooden dining pavilion bathrooms, complete with a jungle overlooking the Ken River is clearly gym for kids and an in-house the best spot in the resort. You need restaurant. It’s a popular haunt for to cross a narrow bridge to reach many here to stop for a meal. The the main resort area. The passionate restaurant dishes out quick Chinese, naturalists and owner of Ken River Indian and Continental fare. Lodge make all the difference to your experience. This is one of the K Raj Tiger Resort HOTEL ` few resorts in the area that remains %773 2275260; www.krajtigerresort.com; d open during the monsoon. They also `1500 (breakfast additional) The simple organise a night safari. but clean rooms are comforting, but what really steals the show is Sarai at Toria LODGE ``` the extremely warm hospitality of %124 4062481; www.saraiattoria.com; the K Raj staff. The bright rooms d cottage `19,800 full board The eight seem a bit off, considering one is in cottages of Sarai at Toria are flanked the vicinity of a jungle and attuned by tall grasses that highlight the to camouflage colours, but the outdoorsy effect of the resort. The comfortable stay trumps everything. main dining area and the library are This is an ideal pick for a budget abuzz with travellers in the evenings, stay. eager to share stories from the 162 Best Trips Pench National Park 163

Pench National Park

Why Go? Pench has a touch of green paradise with its sturdy teak tree thickets spread over 758sq km. The national park is named after the Pench River that runs through it, dissecting its rugged topography. Go here to spot Collar Wali, the star tigress, gangs of dholes and families of nervous deer that flit swiftly through the jungle. Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & Around When To Go Jabalpur (210km) and Nagpur Mar–May (95km) are the nodal points Great For to reach Pench. Both cities are

connected by airports to major cities in India. A 4WD pick-up can be arranged at an extra cost by the resort that you book. If you’re coming from the Bandhavgarh side, then expect a day-long drive of 330km.

A safari is the best way to go tiger-spotting in Pench National Park 164 Best Trips Pench National Park 165

1 Sights flycatcher (state bird of MP) can also be seen here. Snapshot: Cat call The Forest Access Collar Wali, a tigress that had been previously collared for tracking, A mixed forest with a prominent still roams with the contraption. Other well-known tigers include one Pench National Park has three teak tree line, Pench is a popular named BMW and a tiger with the distinguishable marking of an inverse T entry points, Jamtara, Turia and addition to the tiger trail. It has on his head. two major routes inside the forest Karmajhiri. Of these, Turia is the that overlap in the middle, and most popular one, with many `2500/3000/3000 plus forest guard `300 shared jeeps) Taj Hotels has luxury by largely reducing the clutter of resorts converging around this per jeep (6 people in one jeep) properties at all of MP’s major tiger jeeps, offer a fairly peaceful tryst gate. Jamtara and Karmajhiri lie far Timings: 5.30–10.30am and 4.00–6.45pm parks, but this discerning choice with the jungle. Apart from keeping away with only a handful of resorts (changes every day by 10–15 minutes is the most jungle-y and worth the your eyes peeled for wildlife, also around them. If you do not want to depending on the sunrise and sunset) splurge. Twelve massive bamboo look out for the ‘ghost tree’ (white have a package tour ambience, then and sal cottages are hidden away kulu) that serves as a beacon in the staying at these resorts might be amid the forest and feature exquisite thick forest. Pench has the largest better. The number of 4WD vehicles 4 Accommodation & artwork and furniture (including population of herbivorous animals (Gypsy) allowed at every entry point 5 Eating gorgeous antique Rajasthani porch (largely deer) in the region. Apart is what determines the popularity of swings), indoor-outdoor showers from these, it’s easy to spot dholes a section. Jamtara and Karmajhiri and massive elevated machans (Asiatic wild dogs), jackals, wild allow six in a day, while Turia has 40 Turia Gate (open-air patios). The open-air boar and cheeky macaques. Along that leave its gates carrying excited common areas follow suit, only to be with them is a healthy population of travellers. HOTEL ``` Tathastu pleasantly offset by the occasional tigers, sloth bears, leopards, jackals, Indian/foreigner `1370/2640 per jeep %7695 232838; www.tathasturesorts. retro appliance, giving an air of 150 plus species of birds, vultures, plus Gypsy cost Karmajhiri/Turia/Jamtara com; d villa/treehouse/tent/cave room whimsy to the place. The food is gliding squirrels and many varieties `13,000/16,000/16,000/18,000 There’s expectedly divine. A lush pool area of snakes. The Asian paradise Go on an exciting tiger trail in Pench an uncomfortable haphazard kitsch and massage room (treatments to the interior design at this Pench from `2500) round out the luxury. newcomer, but that’s immediately forgotten by the incredible value Mahua Vann HOTEL ``` in the villas. Each enormous three- %9911087646; www.mahuaresorts. bedroom villa comes with a living com; American plan machan cottages/ room, kitchen, dining room, dip pool super deluxe cottages/deluxe cottages d and a dedicated cook, waiter and `12,000/10,000/8000 Mahua Vann is housekeeper. The Flintstonesy cave blessed with thick foliage around rooms, the 10m-high tree houses for one to be tuned into nature and well-appointed tents are great immediately. Cottages with a as well, but are all more expensive vintage vibe and a decided dash than the unbelievably priced villas. of luxury create an atmospheric accommodation. While there are LODGE ``` Baghvan Taj plenty of spaces in the resort to relax %7695 232847; www.tajsafaris.com; in, it’s the library that one finds hard d `47,000 full board (incl 2 safaris in to tear oneself away from. 166 Best Trips Pench National Park 167

rooms if you’re travelling with kids show; it lies on a wooden platform Top Tip: Weekend getaway – these are large rooms with two from where you can gaze at the clear double beds, and not crammed. skies. Many properties at Pench tend to remain open during the monsoon as Three in-house dogs (Tarzan, Jane well, as this is only 167km from Nagpur and is used as a veritable weekend and Bagheera) are also a part of the Mowgli’s Land, FOREST getaway. The more serious, wildlife inclined lodges close down between hospitality team that works to make Forest Rest House REST HOUSE ` July and October. the stay extremely special. %7695 232830; American plan d `18,000 Vintage styled and high-ceilinged, Tuli Tiger Corridor HOTEL ``` garden-facing rooms over the others Karmajhiri Gate Mowgli’s Land is a good choice. The for a view of the well-manicured %7695 232859; www.tulihotels.com; rooms are basic but clean. In fact, lawns and a relaxing setting where American plan cottages/tent cottages from Pench Tree Lodge LODGE ``` a smaller wing of six rooms lies just one can unplug. Apart from the clean d 7,000/11,000 Ultra-luxury cottages % inside the gate. Penny pinchers or and spacious rooms, the resort 11 46035500; www.pugdundeesafaris. dot the 22 acres lush property on com; American plan d `18,000 The fact earnest wildlife enthusiasts, both the fringes of Pench. This resort offers a pool, spa and activities like tend to book this place. nature walks and star gazing. that there are only six treehouses on satiates all hunger for a luxury the property, ensures that one never holiday blended with the wildlife feels crowded out and yet one gets Jungle Home experience – you’ll see that in the a lot of attention from the staff. The HOTEL ``` spa, swimming pool and superior Resort & Spa main pavilion is where one can dine, The Pench Tree Lodge offers a ‘Jungle Book’ dining experience that is offered to %11 46035500; www. swim or hang around the first floor experience up in a treehouse the guests. welcomheritagehotels.in; d deluxe/suite/ common area. The stay throws you cottage `7000/9000/7500 (all meals right in the middle of a ‘Jungle Book’ Kipling’s Court mpstdc `` incl) A Welcom Group property, experience with many an anecdote %7695 232830; www.mptourism.com; Jungle Home Resort and Spa from the staff and plenty of warnings dm/r American plan `1090/3990, r with has a package tourism vibe to it to not carry any food to the luxury AC from `5690 This government-run as it entertains a lot of weekend treehouse, (in case an animal or property wins in both the budget vacationers from Nagpur; but those a reptile slithers in for a bite). The category (considering prices include who are interested in unwinding in balconies of the rooms overlook a all meals, the two well-kept six-bed the pool and the barbeque area, vast expanse of undergrowth – a dorms here are good value) and might enjoy the relaxed no-fuss soothing melange of green. family category (it boasts the best atmosphere of the place. Serious playground in Turia, and 30-odd wildlife enthusiasts are likely to find Jamtara Gate rabbits!). The private cottages aren’t the place sub par. bad either and are dotted around Jamtara dutifully manicured gardens. There’s Pench Jungle Camp HOTEL ``` Wilderness Camp LODGE ``` also a bar. It’s 2km past Turia, about %9999742000; www.penchjunglecamp. 1km before the park gate. com; d `11,000 (incl all meals) With %9190618805; www.jamtarawilderness. cottages tucked away behind small com; full board d `39,501 (incl 2 safaris) The Riverwood thickets and manicured gardens, Luxury tented accommodation with Forest Retreats HOTEL ``` Pench Jungle Camp has a family- all the trappings of a high-end resort vacation vibe to it. In fact, you may ensure super luxurious comfort. Of %9711326357; www.waxpolhotels.com; want to choose the large family all the types, the star bed steals the American plan d `5900 Choose the 168 Best Trips Satpura 169

Satpura

Why Go? Deep canyons cut by rivers, walking safaris, a roaring leopard population and a promise to run into a sloth bear makes Satpura one of the most distinct topographies and experiences of Madhya Pradesh’s wildlife. Experience the tranquillity of the forest without the noisy touristy bustle. Quick Facts

GETTING THERE When To Go Bhopal is the closest airport to Mar–May Satpura, at less than 200km/3 hr. Great For Take a cab from Bhopal for a drop

to the reserve’s entry point, where the resorts are located (`9–11 per km, minimum 250km per day, plus additional `200 for driver allowance). You can also check with your hotel at Satpura for a pickup.

The Satpura biosphere is made up of three wildlife regions 170 Best Trips Satpura 171

1 Sights km with the rivers Son and Denwa fracturing the topography as they Snapshot: The legacy of Forsyth flow inside the forested region. Satpura Biosphere The access to the forest (Satpura The name Forsyth crops up often in conversations at Satpura. The reason Satpura Biosphere includes the Tiger Reserve) is via the Madai is not hard to find. Captain James Forsyth was a British officer in the 19th region which encompasses both region, which is interchangeably century, who was assigned to survey and record Central India’s natural Satpura (Madai region) and used as Satpura. Move 93km resources. His in-depth documentation resonated with love for this Pachmarhi. The Satpura Biosphere east of this part and the forest vast terrain, its original tribal inhabitants and its wildlife. His book, The is made up of three wildlife regions; melts into Pachmarhi (p100), a Highlands of Central India, has eventually served as a rich repository for Satpura (524sq km) the Bori range town that stands in the verdant understanding this region even a whole century later. and the Pachmarhi range (together backdrop of the same jungle, but add up to 903sq km). It is a large whose focus lies on sightseeing stands (on the same bank as the %755 2674302; www.mpforest.gov.in; the area that spans more than 1427sq spots – caves, waterfalls, lakes and resorts). boat crossing alone is `50 per head for all; temples. There is little chance of jeep safari Indian/foreigner `3200/4000 Nature walks are a good way to spot animals Skirting the backwaters of the experiencing the forest in a safari per head (full day I/F `6000/8000), incl in the wild Denwa River along the forest is a like manner. For that, the Madai handful of wildlife conservation guide, jeep for 6–7 people, forest permit region is your best bet. inclined resorts that have developed and boat crossing; elephant safari I/F this sector with the support of the `500/700 (incl of guide and forest permit); Forest Circuits forest department. In fact, such boat I/F `2000/2500 per boat; walking I/F The three main circuits here are teamwork is what sets apart Satpura `750/1400 per head; 3 seater canoes I/F Jhinjhini Mahal and the more from other noted sanctuaries and `950/1050 popular Keria and Lagda routes. national parks. This comparatively Timings: Summer 5–10.30am, 4–6.45pm, Churna is a full day loop that keeps lesser-known Tiger Reserve is winter 6.30–11am, 3–5.30pm you in the forest from 5am until actually brilliant for serious wildlife sunset. Imagine the thrill of spending enthusiasts who would come here 4 the whole day in the company of minus the lure of the big cat. Accommodation & beasts and jungle stories from 5 Eating your forest guide. This is one of Safari on Foot Denwa JUNGLE the very few jungles where people The draw lies in the one-of-a-kind ``` can experience the forest on foot. walking safari. A healthy population Backwater Escape LODGE There are two trails (Bagha Nala and of sloth bears and elusive leopards %9810253436; www. Peeliya), both not more than 10km affords easy sightings here. The denwabackwaterescape.com; cottages/ in length. backwaters also make this an ideal treehouse d `17,000/20,000 full board There are five ways to experience spot for birders. Those fascinated (safari not incl) Spread over 10 acres the jungle – jeep safari, elephant with reptiles will find ample of naturally maintained forested safari, boat, walking and canoe ride. opportunities to spot snakes, frogs land, the Denwa Backwater Escape One needs to hop across the Denwa and monitor lizards. Only 15 jeeps is a luxury property that overlooks River to start the safari. For the enter the forest every day, making the backwaters of the Denwa canoe and boat safaris you will be this one of the few parks where you River. The main pavilion with the picked up from the edge of the river, may go without seeing another jeep swimming pool is perfect to relax where the forest ticketing counter for your entire safari. after a safari, but the highlight is in 172 Best Trips Satpura 173

tribals of the region. A swimming Madhai pool, bush dinner and astronomy Riverside Lodge HOTEL `` sessions on the terrace are some of %94250443620; www. the favoured experiences, other than madhairiversidelodge.com; Sarangpur a trip into the jungle itself. village; deluxe/super deluxe/luxury room d `2500/`3000/`3500 (meals not incl) HOTEL `` The Madhai Resort This accommodation may not be the %9424437150; www.themadhairesort. most swank stop in town, but has com; Bijakhari; d AC/non AC `2500/2200 certainly bagged the best vantage (breakfast not incl) The 12-room basic point. All 13 rooms look onto a property is one of the few that is small garden that stretches into the suited for budget travellers. The 12 backwaters of the Denwa River. The rooms are divided into three blocks rooms are nothing to write home that overlook an insipid garden about, but are easy on the pocket. and the kitchen. Don’t expect well as compared to the plush properties thought out hospitality or insights in the region. It lies walking distance about the forests from the locals from the ticketing counter. who manage this. The good part: it is a short walk away from the ticket Denwa Backwater Escape has a pavilion that Reni Pani offers accommodation in tents When contemporary style meets counter to the forest. looks into the junglescape and cottages local aesthetics, the stay is nothing less than gorgeous. The luxury the thrill of visiting the jungle with property draws inspiration from local the knowledgeable naturalist of the life but infuses luxury seamlessly property. The hospitality is nuanced into it. There are three kinds of units; with every little detail taken care of – nullah (brook), hill and forest. Of from the morning cup of tea before this, the nullah rooms are situated you leave for the jungle, packed along the small brooks; the constant breakfast to eat when you’re there, sound of water is soothing and the refreshing lemonade that meets you just as you return. Forsyth Lodge jUNGLE LODGE ``` %9302625334; www.forsythlodge. Mpstdc ``` Bison Resort com; cottages/cottages with machan d %9425011294; www.mptourism.com; `31,050/`34,155 full board (plus 2 safaris `3,590 onwards (with breakfast) The in shared vehicles) Set on 44 acres of state owned resort offers 12 AC reclaimed forest land, Forsyth Lodge deluxe rooms and a multi-cuisine is one of the most eco-inclined restaurant. luxurious properties of Satpura. Local nuances are reflected in Reni Pani JUNGLE LODGE ``` everything in the lodge – the decor, %755 2661100; www.renipanijunglelodge. warm local hospitality and even com; cottages d `22,000 (incl all meals) aesthetics inspired from the Gond 174 pindexlan your trip MadhyaDharam Pradeshsala & Mc atL aeod Glancei ndexGanj 175

Chitragupta Temple, 68 Gwalior Fort, 22–23, 40 culture, 14–15 Index tribal, 30–31 H Hanuman Temple, 69 D Harsiddhi Mandir, 110–111 A sights, 152–153 Datia, 60 health, 10 accommodation Baz Bahadur’s Palace, 131 Devi Jagadamba Temple, 68 Heliodorus Pillar, 99 in Bandhavgarh National Park, Bee Falls, 103 Dhai Seedi Ki Masjid, 81 Hindola Mahal, 129 153–155 Beohar Palace, 138 Duchess Falls, 104 history, 13 in Bhopal, 83–85 Bharat Bhawan, 82–83 Duladeo Temple, 71 Hoshang’s Tomb, 130–131 in Chanderi, 53 Bhimbetka rock shelters, 20–21, 82 Bhopal, 79–89 in Gwalior, 42–44 E I in Indore, 119–120 accommodation, 83–85 Eastern Gateway, Sanchi, 96 Indore, 117–121 in Jabalpur, 138–139 activities, 89 eating, 28–29. see also individual accommodation, 119–120 in Kanha National Park, 143–147 eating, 85–89 locations eating, 120–121 in Khajuraho, 72–74 gas tragedy, 83 getting there & around, 117 in Maheshwar, 123 getting there & around, 79 nightlife, 120–121 in Mandu, 133–134 shopping, 89 F forests shopping, 121 in Omkareshwar, 123 sights, 80–83 Bandhavgarh National Park, sights, 118–119 in Orchha, 59–61 street food of, 86–87 Internet, 9 in Pachmarhi, 104–106 Bijamandala Temple, 71 152–153 Interpretation Centre, 153 in Panna National Park, 161 Bison Lodge, 102 Kanha National Park, 142 in Pench National Park, 165–167 Brahma Temple, 69 Panna National Park, 160 in Sanchi, 98 Pench National Park, 164 J in Satpura, 171–173 C Satpura, 170–171 Jabalpur, 137–139 in Ujjain, 112–113 Central Museum, 118 forts accommodation, 138–139 Adinath, 70 Champa Baodi, 129–130 Chanderi Fort, 50 eating, 138–139 air travel, 26 Chanderi, 18–19, 49–53 Gwalior Fort, 22–23, 40 getting there & around, 137 Apsara Vihar, 103 accommodation, 53 Seondha Fort, 61 shopping, 139 Archaeological Museum baolis, 51 sights, 138 Khajuraho, 72 eating, 53 G Jahaz Mahal, 128 Sanchi, 98 getting there & around, 49 Gandhi Hall, 118 Jain rock sculptures, 40 Ashrafi Mahal, 131 museum, 52 Ghughua Fossil National Park, 138 Jain Temple, 132–133 autorickshaws, 27 shopping, 53 Gol Ghar, 81 Jai Vilas Palace & Scindia Museum, sights, 50–53 Gopal Mandir, 110 41 B Chanderi Fort, 50 Gwalior, 39–45 Jama Masjid Badal Mahal Gate, 50 Chaturbhuja Temple, 71 accommodation, 42–44 Bhopal, 81 Bandhavgarh National Park, Chaturbhuj Temple, 59 eating, 44–45 Chanderi, 50 151–155 Chauragarh Loop, 102 getting there & around, 39 Mandu, 130 accommodation, 153–155 Chausath Yogini Temple, 69–70 shopping, 45 Jata Shankar Temple, 103 eating, 153 chhatris, 58 sights, 40–42 Javari Temple, 69 getting there & around, 151 Krishnapura, 118–119 Gwalior Darshan bus, 40 176 pindexlan your trip MadhyaDharam Pradeshsala & Mc atL aeod Glancei ndexGanj 177

K sights, 128–133 accommodation, 123 pillars, Sanchi, 97 Kaanch Mandir, 119 Man Singh Palace, 40 Orchha, 22, 57–61 Kandariya Mahadev Temple, 67 map, 37 accommodation, 59–61 Q Kanha National Park, 141–147 Marble Rocks, 138 eating, 61 Qadimi Hammam, 82 accommodation, 143–147 Matangesvara Temple, 69 getting there & around, 57 eating, 143–147 mobile phone, 9 nightlife, 61 R getting there & around, 141 monasteries, Sanchi, 97 sights, 58–59 Rajat Prapat, 103 shopping, 147 money, 9 Rajwada, 118 sights, 142 Mosque of Dilawar Khan, 129 P Ram Ghat, 111 Kati Ghati, 51–52 MP Tourism Boat Club, 81–82 Pachmarhi, 101–107 Ram Raja Temple, 58 Khajuraho, 16, 65–75 MP Tourism Canter, 153 accommodation, 104–106 Raneh Falls, 71–72 accommodation, 72–74 museums eating, 106–107 Rani Durgavati Museum, 138 Eastern Group Temples, 70 Archaeological Museum, 72 getting there & around, 101 Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya, 80 eating, 74–75 Central Museum, 118 shopping, 107 Reechgarh, 103 getting there & around, 65 Chanderi, 52 sights, 102–104 Rewa Kund Group, 131 shopping, 75 Jai Vilas Palace & Scindia packing, 10 Royal Enclave, 128 sights, 66–72 Museum, 41 palaces Rupmati’s Pavilion, 131–132 Southern Group Temples, 71 Rani Durgavati Museum, 138 Ashrafi Mahal, 131 Western Group Temples, 66–70 Sarod Ghar Museum, 42 Baz Bahadur’s, 131 S Koshak Mahal, 51 State Archaeological Museum, Beohar Palace, 138 safety, 10 Krishnapura chhatris, 118–119 41 Hindola Mahal, 129 Samadhi of Rani Lakshmi Bai, 42 Kumbh Mela, Ujjain, 19–20, 110 State Museum, 80–81 Jahaz Mahal, 128 Sanchi, 93–98 Tribal Art Museum, 72 Koshak Mahal, 51 accommodation, 98 L Tribal Museum, 80 Lal Bagh Palace, 118 eating, 98 Lakshmana Temple, 67 Man Singh Palace, 40 getting there & around, 93 Lakshman Temple, 50–51 N Neelkanth Palace, 132 sights, 94–98 Lakshmi Narayan Temple, 59 National Parks, 17 Orchha, 58 Stupas, 23 Lal Bagh Palace, 118 Bandhavgarh National Park, Singpur Mahal, 51 Sarod Ghar Museum, 42 languages, 9 151–155 Taveli Mahal, 128–129 Sasbahu temples, 41 Ghughua Fossil National Park, Palace & Shop of Gada Shah, 129 Satpura, 169–173 M 138 Panna National Park, 159–161 accommodation, 171–173 Magh Mela, Ujjain, 110 Kanha National Park, 141–147 accommodation, 161 eating, 171–173 Mahadeva Temple, 67 Navaratri, Ujjain, 110 eating, 161 getting there, 169 Mahakaleshwar Mandir, 110 nightlife. see individual locations getting there & around, 159 sights, 170–171 Maheshwar, 122–123 night safari, Panna National Park, sights, 160–161 Satpura Biosphere, 170 accommodation, 123 160–161 Parsvanath Temple, 70 Satpura walking trail, 17–18 Mandu, 127–134 Neelkanth Palace, 132 Parvati Temple, 68 Saturday Haat, 133 accommodation, 133–134 Northern Gateway, Sanchi, 95–96 Pench National Park, 163–167 Seondha Fort, 61 eating, 134 accommodation, 165–167 Shahi Madarsa, 51 getting there & around, 127 O eating, 165–167 Shanti Nath, 70 historical legacy, 129 old city, Gwalior, 42 getting there & around, 163 Shehzadi ka Rouza, 51 shopping, 134 Omkareshwar, 122–123 sights, 164–165 shopping, 32–33. see also 178 pindexlan your trip MadhyaDharam Pradeshsala & Mc atL aeod Glanceno Ganjtes 179

individual locations Sanchi, 97 Shri Chaubisi Jain Temple, 52–53 Sas-Bahu temples, 41 Singpur Mahal, 51 Shanti Nath, 70 Southern Gateway, Sanchi, 96–97 Shri Chaubisi Jain Temple, State Archaeological Museum, 41 52–53 State Museum, Bhopal, 80–81 Teli ka Mandir, 41 Stupas, Sanchi, 94–95 Vamana Temple, 69 Vishvanath Temple, 68–69 T Tiger Safari, 138 Taj-ul-Masjid, 81 Tilwara Ghat, 138 Taveli Mahal, 128–129 Tomb of Nizam-Uddin, 53 taxis, 27 Tomb of Tansen, 42 Teli ka Mandir, 41 toranas, Sanchi, 95 temples tourist information, 9 Adinath, 70 train travel, 26 Bijamandala Temple, 71 Tribal Art Museum, 72 Brahma Temple, 69 tribal culture, 30–31 Chaturbhuja Temple, 71 Tribal Museum, 80 Chaturbhuj Temple, 59 Tribal Museum, Bhopal, 31 Chausath Yogini Temple, 69–70 Turkish Bath, 130 Chitragupta Temple, 68 Devi Jagadamba Temple, 68 U Duladeo Temple, 71 Udaigiri Caves, 99 Gopal Mandir, 110 Ujjain, 109–113 Hanuman Temple, 69 accommodation, 112–113 Harsiddhi Mandir, 110–111 eating, 112–113 Jain Temple, 132–133 getting there & around, 109 Jata Shankar Temple, 103 sights, 110–111 Javari Temple, 69 Kandariya Mahadev Temple, 67 V Lakshmana Temple, 67 Vamana Temple, 69 Lakshman Temple, 50–51 Vedh Shala, 110 Lakshmi Narayan Temple, 59 Vidisha, 99 Mahadeva Temple, 67 vihara, 97 Mahakaleshwar Mandir, 110 Village Group, 130 Matangesvara Temple, 69 Vishvanath Temple, 68–69 Parsvanath Temple, 70 Parvati Temple, 68 W Ram Raja Temple, 58 Western Gateway, Sanchi, 97 180 Notes Dharamsala & McLeodno Ganjtes 181 182 Notes Dharamsala & McLeodno Ganjtes 183 184 Notes Dharamsala & McLeodno Ganjtes 185 186 Notes Dharamsala & McLeodno Ganjtes 187 188 Notes Dharamsala & McLeodno Ganjtes 189 190 pAcknowledlan your tgreipments Madhya PradeshAcknowled at ag eGlancements 191

Picture Credits Karuna Ezara Parikh: 114. This guide has been LONELY PLANET INDIA TEAM Placement key: T=Top, TC=Top Kings Lodge: 155. researched and authored by: Senior Commissioning Editor Centre, TR=Top Right, TL=Top Left, Lonely Planet Images: Deba Prasad Supriya Sehgal’ has worked on over Sudha G Tilak C=Centre, B=Bottom, BC=Bottom Roy 139; Jason Fernandes 17; Mark 37 books for Lonely Planet and Design Manager Kavita Saha Centre, BR=Bottom Right, Read 6-7\ 40\ 38\ 149\ 150; Philip other India-based travel books. It’s Layout Designer Arun Aggarwal BL=Bottom Left. Lee Harvey 8\ 18\ 172; Sivan Askayo been a thrilling decade of being Picture Research Manager Shweta 75. on the road for long stretches Although we have done our best to Andrews credit all the copyright holders of Madhya Pradesh Tiger Foundation – an addiction which throws up the photographs used in this book, Society: WAM Mrityunjay Kanwar 63. withdrawal symptoms if she doesn’t we apologise for any unintentional get on a bus or a train for a month. Salban –The Kanha Homestay: 145. Although the authors and omissions. If informed of any further Madhya Pradesh had remained 19, 140. Lonely Planet have taken all acknowledgements we will definitely Sanjoy Ghosh: elusive for a long time until this book reasonable care in preparing include them in future editions of the Santosh Sivan: 135. gave her an opportunity to explore this book, we make no book. 162. it. Wild encounters aside, it was Shweta Andrews: warranty about the accuracy Lonely Planet would like to thank Chanderi’s raw historical backdrop Singinawa Jungle Lodge: 25, 147. or completeness of its content the following photographers, and Bhopal’s stirring food scene Supriya Sehgal: 45, 52, 87, 88, 133, and, to the maximum extent organisations and picture libraries that left her smitten – coming from 168. permitted, disclaim all liability for permission to reproduce their a non foodie, that’s all the testimony 160. arising from its use. photographs: The Ken River Lodge: one needs. Amit Sisodia: 37B, 38B, 40B The Lalit, Khajurao: 73. This edition includes extracts from The Pench Tree Lodge: 167. Lonely Planet India (2016). All images ©Madhya Pradesh Venkat Raman Singh Shyam: 55. Tourism and Lonely Planet/ Nishal White Tiger Lodge: 154. Lama except; Wikipedia: CC BY 2.0/ Soumyadeep 500px: Dhiraj Amritraj 34 – 35. Paul 77; CC BY-SA 3.0/ Manishwiki15 The Board of Control for Cricket in 102; CC BY-SA 3.0/ Syedzohaibullah India: 125. 72; Public Domain 54/ 84. Denwa Backwater Escape: 173. COVER IMAGES: - Dinodia Photo/ Olaf Krüger/ Getty Images: iStockphoto/ vm2002 Front 107. imageBROKER; Back - Dinodia Photo/ Vinay Parelkar - RIGHT; Rajinder Shyam: Gond work of art 91. Dinodia Photo/ MBahuguna - Uma Tewari: 89. CENTRE; Dinodia Photo/ ARCO/ R Müller - LEFT. Kanha Earth Lodge: 146, 157, 164. 192 pAcknowledlan your tgreipments

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