STITCH ANATOMY SERIES work. Only one color is worked across the row at a time. In fa ct, that color is worked for two rows, a right side row and a wro ng Mosaic Lesson side row, before changing to the next color, which is then also worked fo r lwo rows. by Suzanne Bryan Every two rows the color will change to the o ne not being used. The not being used is left hanging at the right edge of the About Mosaic Knitting she dedicates an entire chapter to Mosaic work. When changing from one color to the The mosaic stitch pattern is a subset of Patterns. This is the first time that she next, the just used color is allowed to hang slipped stitch patterns, the diffe rence being uses the term Mosaic to describe the stitch to the front and the unused color is picked that the yarn is always carried across the patterns. The instructions are still given up from behind. This allows the colors wrong side of the work when working line by line. Then her next volume was to twist around each other at the right mosaic patterns. Many sti tch patterns ti tled Charted Knitting Designs: A Third selvedge and to create a nice even edge. incorporate stranding the working yarn Treasury of Knitting Patterns fi rst published You will notice that these color changes across the right side as well as the wrong in 1972, and it is here that for the first create little stripes along the selvedge and side to create interesting color designs. time the now standard method of charting are very easy lo use to count the number of In mosaic knitting the strands are always Mosaic Patterns is seen in chapter 8, rows that have bee n worked- each stripe carried across the wrong side. Mosaic Patterns. She then goes on to add accounting for two rows o r one garter a chapter - Mosai c Samplers, chapter 2 in ridge. While knitti ng across a row, various The technique of Mosaic Knitting was her volume A Fourth Treasury of Knitting stitches from the previo us row are slipped invented and the term coined by Barbara Patterns published in 200 I, (originally purlwise according to the pattern, pulling Walker. In Barbara Walker's A Treasu ty of published as Knitting in 1973 ), the color from the row below up into the Kniuing Patterns first published in 1968, she a culminating volume dedicated entirely current row. This is what creates the two presents several Mosaic type stitch patterns to Mosaic patterns- Mosaic Knitting, color patterns. in the chapter on Color-Change Patterns. originall y copyrighted in 1976, published The directions were given as line by line by Schoolhouse Press in 1997. and not in chart form and the designs have not been labeled as Mosaic Patterns. In Mosaic Techniques her next volume - A Second Treasury of Mosaic knitting incorporates two (or Knitting Patterns first published in 1970, sometimes more) colors into the knitted continued on page 10

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www.TKGA.com 9 that is very dense yet elastic. The row to Before starting the chart you will need to STITCH ANATOMY stitch ratio is 2 rows (or one garter ridge) work one row of the color you have chosen to 1 stitch which is very convenient and for the white squares- that will allow you to allows for very geometric designs. Each two have white stitches to slip in that first black rows account for one color change vertically row. Without that fi rst foundation row the and each stitch allows for one color change black row would just be all black because continued from page 9 horizontally - creating perfect little squares. there would be no white stitches to slip. (See Swatches 1 and 2) There are only two colors- black and It is very simple and even a very new knitter Mosaic patterns can also be worked in a white- for the squares. You can choose who has mastered only the knit and slip which colors you want to use for each. You stitch can create these beautiful designs. Stockinette fabric and in that case the row to stitch ratio does not produce perfect can use a darker color for the black squares squares, but vertical rectangles. The row to and a lighter color fo r the white squares Mosaic patterns that are worked only with (See Swatch 1)- or you can reverse that stitch ratio will not be the same as a true knit stitches create a garter stitch type fabric completely and use a light color yarn for the Stockinette, but will be tighter due to the dark squares and the dark color yarn for the drawing in effect of the slipped stitches. white squares fo r a completely different look Stockinette mosaic patterns are more dense (Sec Swatch 2). Swatch 1 than regular Stockinette and less pl iable and elastic-not as dense as , but Notice that there are vertical red lines on much more dense than regular Stockinette each side of the chart. These mark the fabric. (See Swatch 3) beginning and end of one multiple, which can be repeated as many times as you wish Mosaic patterns can also be worked with for your project. The squares on the outsides a combination of Stockinette and gatter of those Ji nes are the edge stitches and will stitch which creates very interesting effects only be worked once for each edge, no and depending on the ratio of garter stitch matter how many times the interior design to Stockinette stitch will give a fabric is repeated. Across the top of the chart it says somewhere between the garter stitch mosaic "Multiple of 14 plus 3". This means that the fabric and the Stockinette mosaic fabric. main design is 14 stitches across and that there are three edge stitches - one on the Charts and symbols right and two on the left. If you wanted to Swatch 2 Mosaic charts are very simple to read once repeat this multiple 5 times, you would cast you IJ nderstand the layout. I\otice that on 73 stitches: 5 x 14 + 3. each row on the chart represents two rows of knitting- one row going fr om right to The chart is read from the bottom up left and then another row going from left starting in the bottom right corner, reading to right. You can tell this by looking at the from right to left and then back from left numbers going from the bottom to the top to right on the same row, move up a row on each side of the chart. On the right side and repeat. The design can also be repeated the numbers start with 1 and are all odd, vertically. After finishing row 28, start back at while on the left the numbers start with 2 row 1 and repeat as many times as you wish. In our little sampler we worked the and are all even. This makes the chart very design twice. easy to work, since you only have to read the first row of a set of two rows from the chart With yarn in front or with yam in back? as you are knitting, and then can fo llow the So how are these stitches worked? Following Swatch3 work on your needle to work the second the above chart as an example, using cream (or even) row. The first co1Lll11n ofsq uares color for the white squares and teal blue lets you know which color you will work fo r for the black squares we will knit a sample those two rows- for example in row 1, the that works the pattern twice vertically and first square is black. That lets you know that horizontally. Start by 31 stitches you will only be working witl1 the yarn you with the cream, 14 x 2 for the pattern and 3 have chosen for the black squares; all the for the edge stitches and then knit one row. white squares in that row represent slipped This will be the fo undation for starting the stitches. Row 3 starts with a white square, pattern. Then starting with row 1 drop the so you know you will only be working with white yarn in the front and then starting the yarn represented by the white squares, with the teal yarn, k3, sll, k1, sll, k5, sll, and that all the black squares represent the etc. across the row. Remember to work the slipped stitches. slip stitches purlwise. Once you are at the

10 Cast On • August - October 2011 and you need to tighten it a bit. This can be in fi ner weight yarn, mosaic patterns can done by working more closely to the tip of be used in sweaters, hats, socks and other the right needle after slipping the stitch and lighter garments. Mosaic patterns also look before working into the next stitch. Continue very nice felted. working following the chart from bottom to top and repeat the pattern one more time Color up to row 26. Finish by knitting one row of Most patterns are worked with hvo colors, cream and then in pattern with one fo r the dark and one for the light. But the cream. Your swatch should be square. there are no rules saying that you can use The height and width should be equal, aU only hvo colors. Changing colors can create sides being of equal length. very interesting effects as in the second mosaic pillow pattern included with this Circular vs Flat article. Rather than using a variety of colors, Mosaic kni tting can be worked circular as a yarn was chosen that has long color well as flat. When working circular the edge repeats. The effect is very striking. Variegated stitches on the chart are omitted. You will and metallic also look interesting when start with the first square o(row 1 right after worked against a contrasting solid yarn. the first red line and will work the repeat fo r When using multicolored yarns with a solid end of the I st row, turn the work and work the desired number oftimes and then just it is best that the variegated yarn does not back following the stitches on your needle. move to row 2 without working the last hvo contain any of the solid color or you will You will kn it the teal and slip the cream just or firs t edge stitches. All sl ips will be worked lose stitch detail as that same color from as you did in row l. At the end of row two, with the ya rn held to the back for every row. the variegated meets the same color in the drop the teal yarn to the front and pick up If the pattern is to be worked in Stockinette, background solid color. the cream yarn from behind ready to start all rows wi ll be knit. If the pattern is to be the next row. worked in garter stitch, every other row will be purled. Remember that, when purli ng, Mosaic fabrics ca n be blocked as regula r When working the slip stitches on the the yarn will need to be taken to the back garter or Stockinette fab rics. The garter odd numbered rows (RS) always hold the before a slip stitch and then returned to the stitch mosaic patterns work well without working yarn to the back of the work ( wyib ). front to continue purling. Patterns with blocking, as they will lie perfectly flat This means that when you come to the combinations of knits and purls can also be without any coaxing. stitch that is to be slipped, hold the working used with these same techniques. yarn in the back, slip the stitch purlwise and Solving Common Problems then knit into the next stitch in the usual Gauge When incorporating a mosaic pattern into manner. When working on even numbered One very interesting aspect of Mosaic another fabric, such as plain Stockinette, rows (WS) always hold the working yarn to knitting is that the gauge for aU the patterns there may need to be stitch number the front (wyif) when slipping the stitches. will remain the same as long as you are using adjustments to accommodate the difference When you come to a stitch that is to be the same needles and yarn. You can move in stitch gauge between the mosaic fabric slipped, bring the working yarn from th e from one pattern to another and maintain and the plain Stockinette. Be sure to work back to the front, slip the stitch and then the same stitch and row gauge. If you change gauge swatches for both fabrics to check the take the working yarn back to the back from garter stitch patterns to Stockinette stitch and row gauge before you start. to .knit the next stitch, all the while being patterns or a combination of the hvo, the sure to leave just the right amount of yarn row gauge will change, but the stitch gauge When working increases or decreases ca re stranded across the slipped stitch(es) so that will remain the same. must be taken in maintaining the pattern as the stitches are not too crowded or so that the stitch that is on the top of the there is not too much slack in the strand. Fabric and Texture or will be the one showing up as There should be just enough slack so that Mosaic fabric worked with garter stitch the pattern. As an example you may want the stitches that are being slipped can stay is the same denseness as regular garter to use an ssk instead of a k2og in order to in their correct approximation to each other stitch. When worked with Stockinette or get the stitch of the right color on the top or without being crowded. You can check the a combination of Stockinette and garter vice versa. With increases you will need to be tension of the stranding after you have done stitch, the fabric is much denser than regul ar aware of which color (and row) the increases a few rows. Stretch the fabric a bit from side Stockinette but not as dense as garter stitch. are being made in. They will only need to to side- everything should stretch at the The garter stitch fabric has the very nice be made in the RS rows. For example if you same tension. If it is too tight on some rows, property of lying flat, while the Stockinette want the increase to be in the dark color, it be sure to loosen up the tension of those mosaic stitch has a very strong curl (much will need to be made in a row where the dark strands. You can loosen up the stranding more curl than regular Stockinette due to the color is the working yarn, and vice versa with by moving the stitches on the right needle slipped stitches) that will need to be blocked the light color. a little further from the point after slipping to lie flat. Garter Mosaic stitches have a very the stitch and before working into the next rich nubby feel and look, which works well stitch. If there are gaps between the stitches, for jackets, pillows, purses or other garments the tension of the stranding is too loose where a thick fabric is desired. Worked continued on page 12

www.TKGA.com ll Making a Gauge Swatch Rows 7 & 8: With A, "kl, sll, rep from~ until STITCH ANATOMY (See gauge worksheet included I st rem, kl. w ith this article) Rows 9 & 10: Same as rows 5 & 6. Rows 11 & 12: With A, (kl, sll) 3 times, knit The most important measurement across until6 sts rem, (sll, kl ) 3 times. in knitting is gauge. Be sure to Starting with chart on Row 13 cont in pat, continued from page II make a gauge swatch, even if work the red inset 3 times horizontally you are using the recommended then work chart to the left of the inset one needle and yarns. Your gauge may time. Cont working the inset three times be a little different and can result horizontally, then end with rows above inset Mosaic Pillow Lesson in a pillow top that is too large once. There are two patterns fo r this lesson, both or too small. For a pillow, a little Bind off in pat with color Band weave in for 14" x 14" pillow forms. The pillows are too small can be corrected by ends. both knit flat in mosaic garter stitch as the stretching the pillow top over the front panels of the pillows and the back pillow form, but a too large pillow DESIGNER NOTE panels are knit in Stockinette. Each step in top will sag and look sloppy. This mosaic pattern looks best the pillow patterns will have a following with whole blocks of the pattern explanation. In the chart that follows the white squares are color A and the black completed. In order to center the squares are color B. pattern on the pillow top and to keep the pattern whole the plain Mosaic Pillow #1 by Suzanne Bryan Pillow Front rows were added around the With B, CO 79 sts. margins to frame the pattern in Yarn Symbol: (4) Mediwn Rows l & 2 (RS): K 2 rows. the center. Level of Experience: Easy Rows 3 & 4: With A, kl , sll, k until2 sts rem, sll, kl. PiUowBack Finished Measurements: Rows 5 & 6: With B, k2, sll, k across until 3 With A, CO 75 sts, work in St st until piece sts rem, sll, k2. meas 13 1/2". BO in pat. Weave in ends. Front Length: 14" 1 Front Width: 14"

Materials: Lion Brand LION WOOL (3oz/85g, Mosaic Pillow #1 Chart <- ·····-··18 st multiple·-··--- > 158yds/144m, 100% Wool): 2 skeins Winter White (A) S. R. Kertzer REJUVENATJON (3.5oz/100g, 220yds/20lm, lOOo/o Wool): I skein Jade (B) Size 6 (4.0mm) needles or size needed to obtain correct gauge Tapestry needle 14" x 14" pillow form

Gauge: In Mosaic St, 22 sts & 44 rows = 4"/10 em. In St st, 21 sts & 29 rows= 4"/10 em. To save time, take time to check gauge.

TECHNICAL TIPS

Yarn Choice Most smooth worsted weight yarns would work for these pillows. One solid color with a contrasting color, which can be a solid or variegated yarn. The gauge is a little tighter than recommended on the ball bands in order to make a more durable pillow. This is accomplished by going down one needle size from what is recommended.

12 Cast On • August - October 20 I I Finishing In St st, 21 sts & 29 rows= 4"/10 em. To save Because the pillow front is worked in Mosaic time, take time to check gauge. garter stitch it lays very Oat and does not GAUGE WORKSHEET need blocking. If des ired the pillow back Pillow Front can be blocked, being careful to keep its In the chart that fo llows, black squares will Width: ______original dimensions. Place the pillow top and be worked with Color Band white sq uares (l/8=.125, 1/4=.25, 3/8=.375, 112=.5, back together with wrong side facing, the will be worked with Color A. tops and bottoms matched. Seam one side 5/8=.625, 3/4=.75, 7/8=.875) using mattress stitch keeping the two pieces If yo u switched colors in this chart, using A aligned. In the pillow sample there were 22 for black squares and B fo r white squares, the Number of Stitches: ______garter ridges along the front edges of pillow resulting fabric would look exactly the same. (Don't include ilie selvedge stitches) top and 29 rows on the pillow back per 4". The back has 7 more rows than the ridges on With A, CO 75 sts. Set up row - k~it. Divide the number of stitches by the the front per 4". In order to keep the front With Color B work Chart starting with Row width. This gives you the number of and back even as seaming, it would be best to 1 and RS; right side edge sts once then mult stitches per inch. Do not round off have a ratio of3 front ridges to every 4 back 5 times, then left side edge sts once. Work rows. Using the mattress stitch, seam 1:1, l: 1, the number: Rows 1-36 four times, then rows l-5 once 1:2 along both sides. Then seam the bottom. more. With A, k one row. BO in pat. Weave Will need to know the stitch gauge of both Number of Stitches Per Inch: __ in ends. pieces. The stitch gauge fo r the pillow top is 22 sti tches and the pillow back is 21 stitches Multiply the nu mber of stitches by 4. per 4". A ratio of22/21 stitches, which can be Round this number up or down. worked by seaming the 21 stitch pillow back Mosaic Pillow #2 Chart stitch with 2 pillow front stitches, across Number of Sti tches in 4": ____ the seam using Kitchener stitch. Place the 36 pillow form inside and work the seam across 34 32 Repeat this procedure to determine the top the same as the bottom. Secure 30 all tails and hide inside pillow fo rm. (The 28 the row gauge. Pattern Basics section in this magazine has 26 instructions on Kitchener stitch.) Length: ______(l/8=.125, 1/4=.25, 3/8=.375, 112 =.5, Please check yo ur stitch and row gauge 5/8=.625, 3/4=.75, 7/8=.875) and adjust accordingly using the above as a guideli ne. Your row gauge may be very Number of Rows: ______different on the St st pillow back; check carefully before starting the side scams. (Don't include the cast on or bind off edge) Mosaic Pillow #2 by Suzanne Bryan Divide the number of rows by the length. This gives you the number of Pillow Back Yarn Symbol: (4) Medium rows per inch. Do not round off the Level of Experience: Easy With A, CO 75 sts, work in St st u ntil piece number: meas J 3 l/2". BO in pat. Weave in ends. Finished Measurements: Number of Rows Per Inch: ___ Front Length: 14" Finishing Front Width: 14" Because the pillow front is worked in mosaic garter stitch it lays very fl at and does not Multiply the n umber of rows by 4. Materials: need blocking. If desired, the pillow back ca n Round this number up or down. Lion Brand LION WOOL (3oz/85g, be blocked, being careful to keep its original l58yds/l44m, lOOo/o Wool): dimensions. Place the piJ!ow top and back Number of Rows in 4": _ ____ 2 skei ns Winter Wl1ite (A) tog with WS facing and tops and bottoms Noro KUREYON ( l.76oz/50g, I 20yds/l l0m, matched. Seam one side using mattress stitch If you are getting fewer stitches than lOOo/o Wool): keeping the two pieces aligned. In the pillow the recommended gauge, try using a 1 skein #226 Reds/Teal/Olive/Magenta (B) sample there were 22 garter ridges along the smaller needle size. Size 6 (4.0mm) needles or size needed to front edges of the pillow top and 29 rows on obtain correct gauge the pillow back per 4". The back has 7 more Tapestry needle rows than the ridges on the front per 4". If you are getting more stitches than 14" x 14" pillow fo rm the recommended gauge, try using a larger needle size. Gauge: In Mosaic St, 22 sts & 44 rows = 4"/ I 0 em. continued on page 14

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www.TKGA.com 13 STITCH ANATOMY

continued from page 13

In order to keep the front and back even as seaming, it would be best to have a ratio of 3 front ridges to every 4 back rows. Using the mattress stitch, seam 1: I, I: I, I :2 along both sides. Then seam the bottom. Because the top and bottom have the same st count, the seam can be worked stitch for stitch in Kitchener stitch. Place the pillow fo rm inside and work the seam across the top same as the bottom. Secure aU tails and hide inside pillow form. (The Pattern Basics section in th is magazine has instructions on Kitchener stitch.)

References Porter, Kristi, Slip in Some Color, Winter 20l l. Web. 24 Mar. 20 11. http://www.knitty.com/fSSUEsummer03/FEATslipstitch. html.

Walker, Barbara G., A Fourth Treasury of Knitting Patterns, Schoolhouse, Pittsville, WI, 2001.

Walker, Barbara G., A Second Treastuy ofKnitting Pattern s, Schoolhouse, Pittsville, WI, 1998.

Walker, Barbara G., A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, Schoolhouse, Pittsville, WI, 1998.

Walker, Barbara G., Charted Knitting Designs: A Third Treasury of Knitting Patterns, Schoolhouse, Pittsville, WI, 1998.

Walker, Barbara G., Mosaic Knitting, School-house, Pittsville, WI, 1997.

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