STITCH ANATOMY LINEN STITCH LESSON BY BINKA SCHWAN

Linen Stitch has become one of the most resembles Seed Stitch and being able to use the Linen Stitch is a combination of knits, purls, popular stitch patterns in . It is a purl side as the public side makes it even more and slipped stitches. When working on the knit/ relatively easy stitch pattern to work, is versatile, versatile. Using solid or variegated , one or public side, the stitches are slipped with the and can be worked in one or multiple colors. more colors, or even changing colors every row yarn in front and when working on the purl/ The end result on the knit side looks exactly like or every two rows makes the basic Linen Stitch private side, they are slipped with the yarn in a woven linen fabric. The purl side of the fabric pattern very unique and interesting. back. It is basically a two-stitch pattern where

12 Cast On I August – October 2015 BACK TO Copyright 2015 The Knitting Guild Association. Cast On content is for readers’ personal use and may not be shared or reproduced without permission from the editors. CONTENTS the slipped stitches alternate with the knit or the However, all Slip Stitch patterns are not Mosaic purl stitches. patterns. In Mosaic patterns, the working yarn is always held to the private side when stitches Linen Stitch results in a fabric that does not are slipped. In Slip Stitch patterns the working curl and therefore is excellent for jackets, vests, yarn can be held either to the public/front or scarves, and shawls. It can also be used for home to the private/back sides when the stitches are decor items such as placemats, pillows, and table slipped. Again, in Linen Stitch, the bars from runners. There are abundant knitting patterns the working yarn across the slipped stitches are available for these items, or you can experiment always to the public side. and try your own design. Tension Linen Stitch is also known by other names When working Linen Stitch, overall tension is such as Fabric Stitch and Woven Stitch. There very important. Because slipped stitches are is also a variation called the Half Linen Stitch involved, the knitter may need to pay a bit of where slipped stitches are worked only on the attention to the pattern so that the stitches FIGURE 1: Public side Linen Stitch in solid color yarn. knit rows and purl side rows are simply purled are slipped evenly and are the same tension across. Both the Linen Stitch and the Half Linen throughout. However, this usually becomes Stitch can be worked flat or in the round. The second nature after a few rows, and the pattern two pillow patterns that accompany this article becomes easy to work and maintain without too use both the Linen Stitch and the Half Linen much thinking involved! Stitch patterns. And, to show the versatility and reversibility of these stitch patterns, both the Slipped stitches will pull the fabric vertically knit sides and the purl sides are highlighted. and the "bars," or stranded yarn across the slipped stitches, will pull the fabric horizontally. Slipped Stitches in Linen Stitch If the working yarn is too loose across the A “slipped” stitch is made by simply slipping slipped stitch, the previous stitch can become a stitch from the left to the enlarged because the yarn can work its way right needle without working the stitch. Unless into the previous stitch. And, if the working directed otherwise by the pattern, this stitch is yarn is pulled too tightly across the slipped slipped as if to purl, which will result in a stitch stitch, the fabric can pucker. The goal is to have that is not twisted at the base. The working yarn the bars across all stitches be of the same size FIGURE 2: Private side Linen Stitch in solid color yarn. is brought to the front (WYIF) or to the back and tension. This will ensure that the resultant of the work (WYIB) before the stitch is slipped. fabric is even and "squared" and no pulling or The working yarn is then brought across the puckering has occurred. should always slipped stitch forming a bar across the slipped be measured in the Linen Stitch pattern, as the stitch. The next stitch, when working the Linen gauge of slipped stitch patterns can be quite Stitch pattern, is then either knit or purled. In different from that of Stockinette Stitch gauge. Linen Stitch, the bar across the slipped stitch is always on the knit or public side of the work, Refer to the excellent Stitch Anatomy article whether you are working a knit row or a purl on Slip Stitches by Molly Ferrante, Cast On, row, or working in the round. And this bar February-April 2010, for more information on (slipped stitch) is offset by one stitch every row. Slip Stitch technique. The combination of the placement of the bar and worked stitches makes the Color in Linen Stitch resemble the weave of linen fabric. Using a solid color, multiple solid colors, or

variegated yarn can illustrate the versatility of FIGURE 3: Public side Linen Stitch in multiple solid Figure 1 shows an example of the knit side of this stitch pattern. As shown in Figures 1 and colors of yarn. Linen Stitch. This sample was done in a solid 2, using a solid color will enhance the stitch color to highlight the stitch pattern. When pattern and show off the beauty and texture of Linen Stitch is worked in a solid color, the the pattern. beauty and texture of the actual fabric can be seen. Figures 3 and 4 show both the public and private sides of the Linen Stitch pattern where Figure 2 shows the same Linen Stitch swatch, solid color have been used but different but this time the purl side is highlighted. This colors are used every two or more rows. This side of the fabric shows how closely it resembles combination also enhances the stitch pattern the Seed Stitch pattern. and texture, but the addition of color and striping adds further interest. Slip Stitch vs. Mosaic Pattern The Linen Stitch pattern is a Slip Stitch pattern and not a Mosaic pattern. There is often a misunderstanding that Slip Stitch and Mosaic patterns are the same. They are similar in that FIGURE 4: Private side Linen Stitch in multiple solid colors of yarn. Mosaic patterns are all Slip Stitch patterns. continued on page 14

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continued from page 13

Figures 5 and 6 are examples of the public and private sides of Linen Stitch worked in one variegated yarn. You can see that the look of this fabric is completely different from previous examples, demonstrating the versatility of Linen Stitch. And finally, Figures 7 and 8 show three different variegated yarns worked into one design. Again, this looks very different from the previous color samples. There are many color FIGURE 5: Public side Linen Stitch in variegated yarn. FIGURE 6: Private side Linen Stitch in variegated yarn. and design possibilities for Linen Stitch!

Half Linen Stitch In traditional Linen Stitch, every row or round has slipped stitches, which is a two-row pattern. In Half Linen Stitch the pattern is four rows/ rounds. Rows or rounds 1 and 3 incorporate the slipped stitches and rows 2 and 4 are simply purled or, when worked in the round, knit. Figures 9 and 10 show examples of both sides of the half linen stitch done in one color and in Figures 11 and 12 two colors are used with the color changing every two rows. Again, many different designs can be created with a variety of yarns and color combinations.

The two pillow patterns that accompany this FIGURE 7: Public side Linen Stitch using three FIGURE 8: Private side Linen Stitch using three article are done in both Linen Stitch and Half different colors of variegated yarn. different colors of variegated yarn. Linen Stitch. If you choose to make your own pillows, experiment with different colors and combinations. That's the fun of this stitch pattern!

A special thank you to Master Committee Co-Chairs, Suzanne Bryan and Sharon Levering, for their editing assistance.

References Ferrante, Molly. “Slip Stitch Lesson.” Cast On February-April 2010. Editors of Vogue Knitting magazine. Vogue Knitting: The Ultimate Knitting Book. New York, NY: Soho Publishing Company, 2002. FIGURE 9: Public side Half Linen Stitch using one FIGURE 10: Private side Half Linen Stitch using one Walker, Barbara. A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. color solid yarn. color solid yarn. Pittsfield, WI: Schoolhouse Press, 1998.

FIGURE 11: Public side Half Linen Stitch using two FIGURE 12: Private side Half Linen Stitch using two colors of solid yarn. colors of solid yarn.

14 Cast On I August – October 2015 BACK TO Copyright 2015 The Knitting Guild Association. Cast On content is for readers’ personal use and may not be shared or reproduced without permission from the editors. CONTENTS STITCH ANATOMY CHUNKY LINEN STITCH PILLOW BY BINKA SCHWAN

looking chunky pillow that is popular in home Finishing décor today. The solid color also shows the Pieces should not need but may texture of the linen stitch fabric. In addition, require a light steaming to even out the sts. both the knit and purl sides of linen stitch are Weave in all yarn tails. Because you are using Finished Measurements: interesting! To illustrate the reversibility and the knit side of one piece and the purl side of 12" x 16" (30 x 40cm) versatility of this stitch pattern, one side of the the other as the public sides, make certain yarn pillow uses the knit side of the pattern as the tails are woven into the correct side so they are public side while the other side of the pillow Materials and Equipment: not visible on the front. On the piece where the uses the purl side as the public side. Brown Sheep Company, Inc. NATURE SPUN knit side of the linen stitch is public, the yarn CHUNKY (7oz/200g, 155yds/142m, 100% tails should be woven into the purl side. Where Special Abbreviations: wool): the purl side becomes the public side, the tails wyif = with yarn in front 2 skeins #N03C Grey Heather should be woven into the knit side. wyib = with yarn in back Size 19 (15mm) needles or size needed to obtain gauge Place the knit side and purl side of the two Stitch Pattern: Tapestry needle pieces together aligning the cast on edges. 12" x 16" pillow form Linen Stitch for an odd number of stitches Using a single strand of yarn, seam three sides (multiple of 2+1) of the pillow. Insert the pillow form and seam Gauge: Row 1 (RS): K1, *sl 1 wyif, k1; rep from *. the final side. In Linen Stitch pattern with yarn doubled, 8 sts Row 2 (WS): P2, *sl 1 wyib, p1; rep from * to & 15 rows = 4"/10cm. To save time, take time to last stitch, p1. Reference check gauge. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for stitch pattern. Editors of Vogue Knitting Magazine. Vogue Knitting: The Ultimate Knitting Book. New York, DESIGNER NOTE: Linen Stitch fabric resembles Pillow Front and Back (Make 2) NY: Soho Publishing Company, 2002. page 137. woven fabric which is why it is also known as With yarn held doubled, CO 31 sts. Continuing Woven Stitch. For this project, the yarn is held with yarn held double, work the two-row Linen doubled. The combination of the bulky yarn and Stitch pattern for 12", ending on a WS row. BO the stitch pattern produces a very contemporary in pattern on RS.

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public sides of this stitch pattern are interesting! Finishing To illustrate the reversibility and versatility of Pieces should be blocked to pillow this stitch pattern, the knit side of the Half Linen measurements. Or, you can choose to do a light Stitch is used for the pillow front while the purl steaming to even out the stitches. The pieces Finished Measurements: side of the stitch is used for the pillow back. will be stretched to fit the pillow form so if they 12" x 16" (30 x 40cm) are slightly small it is not a problem. Weave Special Abbreviations: in all yarn tails. Because the knit side of Half Materials and Equipment: wyif = with yarn in front Linen Stitch is used for the front of the pillow Schoppel ZAUBERBALL STARKE 6 (437yds/ and the purl side of the stitch used for the back, 400m, 5.29oz/150g, 75% Virgin Wool, 25% Stitch Pattern: yarn tails must be woven in correctly so they Nylon): Half Linen (Double Woven) Stitch for an odd are not visible on the front. On the piece where 1 skein #2170 Blasser Schimmer (Color A) number of stitches (multiple of 2 + 1) the knit side is public, the yarn tails should be Knit Picks WOOL OF THE ANDES SPORT Row 1 (RS): K1, *sl 1 wyif, k1; rep from *. woven into the purl side and where the purl (137yds/125m, 1.76oz/50g, 100% Wool): 2 Row 2 (WS): Purl. side becomes the public side, the tails should be skeins #25269 White (Color B) Row 3: K2, *sl 1 wyif, k1; rep from * to last woven into the knit side. Size 5 (3.75mm) needles or size needed to stitch, k1. obtain gauge Row 4: Purl. Place the knit side of one piece and the purl 12" x 16" pillow form Repeat Rows 1-4 for stitch pattern. side of the other piece together aligning the cast on edges. This will ensure that the front Gauge: Pillow Front and Back (Make 2) will show the knit side of the linen stitch and In Half Linen Stitch pattern after blocking, 20 CO 79 stitches with Color A. Work Rows 1-2 the back of the pillow will have the purl side sts & 21 rows = 4"/10cm. To save time, take of Half Linen Stitch pattern. Change to Color showing. Seam three sides of the pillow, then time to check gauge. B and work Rows 3-4 of Half Linen Stitch insert the pillow form and seam the final side. pattern. Continue Half Linen Stitch pattern as DESIGNER NOTE: The Half Linen Stitch is also established, changing colors every two rows. Reference known as the Double Woven Stitch and is Carry non-working yarn loosely up the right The Harmony Guide to Knitting Stitches. worked with two colors for this project. Color A side. Work Half Linen Stitch pattern for 12" London: Lyric Books, Limited, 1983. page 43. is used for Rows 1 and 2, and Color B is used ending after working Row 1. BO in pattern for Rows 3 and 4. Both the public and non- using Color A.

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