March Weekender Full.Pdf
weekenderJapan’s premier English language magazine MARCH 2013
CHIBA is The great outdoors right next door?
J-POP THE CURSE OF IDOL CULTURE
TRAVEL & ART Naoshima and the inland ISLANDS + setouchi triennale RETURNS
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: Top news from Asia Daily Wire, “Rami-chan” looks forward to the new baseball season, movies, events and more... Tokyo weekender- subat ilan.pdf 1 24.01.2013 10:39
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For further details, please visit our website or call (81-3) 5412 3131 or email us [email protected]. March 2013 CONTENTS 18
NOKOGIRI-YAMA Hiking up the saw tooth mountain, just over the Aqua-Line into Chiba.
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CHIBA’s SURPRISES SETOUCHI TRIENNALE AGENDA Festivals, surfing spots, sake, peanuts and A world class art festival on Naoshima The best goings on this month, including more than we ever thought there was. and surrounding islands. an intimate gig from Grimes (above).
9 Asia Daily Wire 22 Kamogawa Style 38 Baseball A roundup of all the top APAC news of the This was the first place in Japan to see Ahead of the 2013 season we met with past month. surfers hit the beaches. “Rami-chan” of the DeNA Baystars.
10 The Curse of the Japanese Idol 26 Chikura 46 Movies Strong words for the music industry and A town of discovery on the tropical Top movies finally hitting the screens in all who pander to its pushiness. southern tip of the Boso Peninsula. Tokyo this month. 17 Nuts about Chiba 31 Benesse meets Art 50 Back in the Day Meeting the peanut farmers of Chiba who The story of Naoshima and the education A kidnapping, some transvestites and an AA meet the needs of “heavy users”. company that brought art to the island. meeting made our pages in 1988. FROM THE EDITOR March 2013
tokyo he shaved her Publisher Bulbous Cell Media Group head because she Chairman Ray Pedersen
weekenderJapan’s premier English language magazine MARCH 2013 has a boyfriend? Executive Producer Asi Rinestine The latest goings on in ‘idol’ world Editor Matthew Holmes Sconfused and shocked many Art Director Liam Ramshaw of us who live here and Designer Ayako Fujiwara often feel we are looking Media Director Kotaro Toda in on certain aspects of Account Executives Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa CHIBA Japanese culture from the Ohad Elbaz IS THE GREAT OUTDOORS Masaya Okamoto RIGHT NEXT DOOR? outside. Love them or hate
J-POP them, AKB and the like THE CURSE OF IDOL CULTURE Media Consultants Mary Rudow invade our consciousness Marketing Ingrid Dubreuil TRAVEL & ART NAOSHIMA AND THE INLAND ISLANDS every day, from our TV + SETOUCHI TRIENNALE RETURNS screens, from supermarket Society Bill Hersey
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: Top news from Asia Daily Wire, “Rami-chan” looks forward to the new baseball season, movies, events and more... stereos and from billboards Film Christopher O’Keeffe on the Metro but there is, Henry Watts writes on page 10, a darker side to the industry we Editorial Associates Vivian Morelli may not have spotted. As the dust settled – as it seems to have done Matthew Hernon – on an incident that brought discussion of a wider problem back Adam Miller Henry Watts to the mass media agenda, everyone continued to have an opinion. The point that resonated for me was that this was essentially a girl Asia Daily Wire Mace Bertumen being forced to do in her life what she had ‘promised’ when she was just 13 for her career and that this was seen as an OK thing. There IT Manager Nick Adams Development Manager Stephane Boudoux are some strong words for the industry in the piece, which I’d urge Finance & Admin Takako Nakahara you to read. We love to hear your thoughts on articles like this: be it DBA Iryna Sundutova through our Facebook page, Twitter or of course tokyoweekender. com, do get in touch. We travel far and wide across Japan seeking interesting spots to tell you about and often hear from friends and readers who have tips EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 to get us on the road. We rarely hear about Chiba, though, despite it being right there on our doorstep. I’d actually be surprised if there Published by Bulbous Cell Media Group weren’t quite a few of you who are reading this from the prefecture www.bulbouscell.com itself – or who long ago discovered all it has to offer – but I was Published monthly at the Regency Shinsaka Building, 5th floor certainly surprised with what we found, particularly towards the 8-5-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 south of the Boso Peninsula. Even visiting in February was quite an (03) 6846-5615 / (03) 6846-5616 (fax) eye opener – flowers seem to be in bloom already and slightly crazy [email protected] surfers (who to be honest probably never stopped) dotted the white water that, you know, actually looked pretty inviting. To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6846-5615 or email: There was a spot of family-friendly ‘mountaineering’ at [email protected] Nokogiriyama, just over the other side of what was, for me, the inordinately exciting Tokyo Bay Aqua-Line (the surely bubble- era inspired feat of engineering that is the tunnel then bridge For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6846-5615 or email: with a view spanning 14km across the water to Chiba – there’s a [email protected] convenience store in the middle if you get too excited…) and plenty more to bust a few myths. As seems to have become a bit of a habit of www.tokyoweekender.com ours on our travels recently, we also found quite a bit of local booze that helped us ‘soak up the culture’ a little and we hope you’ll do the Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher same this spring – what better way to explore a ‘new’ region? That it comes from generations-old companies sticking to their traditions and doing it right makes it taste all the sweeter.
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*Correction: In our February issue we wrote that Gilt, the online flash fashion site, had sales every Tuesday. They are actually daily.
8 | WEEKENDER | EXPAT LIFE
MARCH 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com ASIA DAILY WIRE | NEWS | 9
sia Daily Wire is your go-to place for all the latest news from across the Asia Pacific region. Covering business, culture, entertainment, North Korea defiantly stages sports and breaking news, Asia Daily Wire is updated round the third nuclear test clock in real time and picks and chooses the best headlines from North Korea said Asources across Asia—doing all the hard work for you. Here is a roundup of it successfully some of the ADW Editor’s picks from the past month... detonated a “miniaturized” nuclear device, defying the Police charge Man arrested UN Security Council and global powers in an two with Papua after stabbing apparent threat to the US. The North said it New Guinea Japanese used a “lighter, miniaturized atomic bomb” ‘witch’ killing tourists in Guam in its most powerful nuclear test yet, moving a step closer to its goal: building a nuclear Police in Papua Police arrested a weapon that is small enough to fit on a long- New Guinea have man accused of range missile. charged two people with the murder of a stabbing spree at a major tourist district in a woman they had accused of witchcraft Guam which left at least three people dead – Exiled Tibetan and then burned alive. Kepari Leniata, a including an 8-month-old baby – and 11 others in 100th self- 20-year-old mother, was stripped, tortured injured. Chad Ryan DeSoto, 21, reportedly immolation and doused in gasoline in front of a mob crashed his car onto a sidewalk before striking A Tibetan exile including children and eventually died in and slashing at tourists at a shopping area at set himself on fire flames on a pile of car tires. the Outrigger Guam Resort. in the Nepalese S. Korean Japan blames capital Wednesday, officials said. About 100 lawmaker Chinese smog Tibetans are believed to have set themselves loses seat for sudden rise on fire since 2009 in protest over religious over Samsung in air pollution persecution by the Chinese government. The Tibetan government-in-exile has urged wiretaps Japanese an end to the protests, which Beijing accuses A South Korean authorities the Dalai Lama of inciting. lawmaker who exposed corruption within issued health warnings as suffocating smog Samsung Electronics Co. has forfeited that had engulfed China apparently blew his seat in parliament. The country’s top over the ocean towards Japan, sending air China bans radio court ruled Roh Hoe-chan had violated pollution to hazardous levels in some places. and TV ads for communications law when he published Air quality in western Japan plummeted luxury items incriminating wiretaps of conversations recently, exceeding government standards China has between officials of the conglomerate. He by up to 42%. announced a received a suspended prison sentence. Muslims ban on radio and Japan’s central say “no” to TV advertisements touting extravagant bank denies Valentine’s gift-giving in another push to crack down on capitalism and corruption. Ads for manipulating Hundreds luxury items such as watches and gold the yen of Muslim coins promote “incorrect values and helped The head of schoolchildren create a bad social ethos,” said China’s TV Japan’s central in Indonesia and Pakistan gave speeches watchdog, the State Administration of Radio, bank dismissed claims it is manipulating and distributed leaflets urging people to Film and Television. the yen to boost the country’s exports, the say “no” to Valentine’s Day. “Valentine’s is latest in a string of denials from Japanese against Islamic culture ... relationships are officials. Tokyo has been on the defensive sacred. We have arranged marriages in For all the top news of 2013 or to over aggressive monetary easing pledged by this culture and people don’t get married read more on these stories, visit: Prime Minister Shinzo Abe since he swept to for love,” said one Islamic spokesman. www.asiadailywire.com power in December. 10 | OPINION | POPULAR CULTURE
they might want to. This is true also of AKB48’s numerous lesser affiliates (such as SKE48 and HKT48, the Nagoya and Fukuoka offshoots) as well as Morning THE CURSE Musume. Meanwhile, the agency representing the male idol involved in the Minegishi affair, Alan Shirahama, released only a short statement about its client’s OF THE behaviour, saying: “We leave his private life up to him”. He could well have been given a stern word behind closed doors, but such treatment is hardly the JAPANESE IDOL persecution that the girl idols go through. If aspiring girls must be more Give a pretty teen their sexual freedom, forcefully restrained to become successful idols, it rather reveals how much more and you ruin a great business opportunity demanding and imposing male fans are with their fantasies. This sort of subjection by Henry Watts might pay well, but isn’t that precisely what is most alarming about it? Why must t takes a very tenacious person indeed weeping wreck of agony and shame. such a clause even exist in a contract? to ignore the crying calls for attention The video – uploaded to YouTube – was Is a submissive and pubescent image of of ‘idol groups’ in Japan. You’ll be hard made apparently as penance to those she attractiveness really what the Japanese pressed to find a billboard or a TV let down. She claims she shaved her head mainstream wishes to project? screen that the greasy smiles of these willingly in a fit of shock at the release of the Besides the obvious gender bias, the factory-producedI pop squirts haven’t covered. story. She did break the rules after all, and core of the problem is surely in the overly Their position in the collective consciousness her comradeship with the more line-towing grandiose title of “idol” – a word used to is so loud and so ubiquitous in fact, that idols of her company could well have left her describe representations of gods, and even the bad publicity feels part of the grand ashamed. She may also have been frustrated images of perfection, not only elite brands performance. at having breached a contract that of darling celebrities. AKB48’s particular Take, for example, the rule could give her a lifetime’s worth brand of “idol” is grossly demanding. Its that bans members of one of riches in exchange for a few members have to attend handshaking of the largest and most years of abstinence. events with enamoured fans, disclose successful idol groups in The idea that someone body measurements, blood types, tastes Japan, AKB48, from having would actually sign and habits as well as take vows of chastity. romantic relationships. such a contract is not It is one of the most unpalatable yet This is a rule that looks like inconceivable, until we cunning social phenomena in Japan. It it was made to be broken. notice that Minegishi first allows fans to entertain their fantasies as One can imagine Japanese joined AKB48 at the age of truths, and primes them ready for willing PR tycoons converging to 13. Suddenly the validity of expulsions of cash. The commercial discuss how better to increase her consent, the questionable machine knows all too well how much their media exposure; forbid role of her parents and the people want to believe that imperfectly precisely that which hormonal and whole predatory nature of the idol evolved primates can achieve perfection. adolescent idols will find hard to resist, industry comes into focus. And a most tyrannical delusion it is too. and voilà, the media hysteria is yours. Indeed AKB48’s male equivalents, the plastic- every time supposed “sex scandals” emerge, looking boys of the Johnny & Associates fans go bewilderingly pale with horror and the agency, operate under similar arrangements media re-hashes old debates about the fairness to their female counterparts and yield equally of the rules. But at least everyone is talking lavish profits. They try to appear single and about AKB. available at all times so their fans can more The most recent violation of this rule was easily picture themselves hanging off their committed last month by formerly top-ranking arms, and so fans feel personally AKB member, Minami Minegishi, who was addressed when listening caught by the gossip rag-mag Shukan Bunshun to them sing. “staying the night” with Alan Shirahama from Johnny’s the boy band GENERATIONS. Nothing could Boys, however, sound more unremarkable than that. are subject only The aftermath however was appalling. to an unwritten Immediately after the photographic evidence expectation that of her romance had come to light, the AKB48 they not be seen with management banished her to the trainee a “publicly-visible ranks of the group for “re-education”. This was girlfriend”, unlike followed by Minegishi herself appearing on- AKB48 who are screen dressed as though she had just crawled contractually bound out of a correctional institute: her hair poorly not to “return the sheared, her scalp visible and her self-esteem a affection” to anyone
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Browse over 50,000 listings at www.realestate.co.jp okyo’s neighbour to the east may have more to offer than you think. If the first and last thing you know about GETTING TO the prefecture is its Disney resort, Narita Airport or the industrial/commercial complex around Makurari, then it might be time to take a second look; go a little deeper and youT will find in Chiba lots to do and see. KNOW OUR The bulk of the prefecture falls on a peninsula that a fair few of us Tokyoites dismiss when getting round to booking that weekend away or even thinking about a day trip out of the city. We might consider Chiba simply a bunch of satellite towns from which to commute to Tokyo NEIGHBOURS but there is, however, good reason to consider heading in the opposite direction and going just a little further. Get on the Tokyo Bay ferry from It’s right on our doorstep but, for many of us, Chiba near Yokosuka, head off on the train or bus or drive over the Tokyo Bay isn’t where we consider when looking for an escape Aqualine and, as many locals will tell you, you’ll feel further away than you’ve had to travel. Isn’t that the perfect kind of escape? from the city. Have we been mistaken? If you are one of those who has been caught up in the recent boom for outdoor pursuits – or a die hard who’s been getting into the great by Matthew Holmes
MARCH 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com CHIBA | TRAVEL | 15
Hot springs, Edo-period towns, fishing villages, sake breweries and museums make the prefecture rich with opportunity for exploration. outdoors since you were a kid – you can’t ignore Chiba. Its hills and forests have trekking and hiking routes through un-spoilt surroundings; road or mountain bikers will find trails that can truly challenge them and local beaches around the 530km of protected coastline aren’t just for relaxing. Surfing, kayaking, fishing, diving and Impressive festivals that the spectacular float festival celebrates; local business owners push huge wooden even paragliding centers exist along the in Sawara Pacific shore and there are plenty of options floats through the streets and thousands of Sawara, part of Katori City, is a great place to for a family day out, with Kamogawa Sea people watch them from the sidelines while visit at any time but it is most well known for World, the Disney Resort (of course!) and enjoying everything a local festival has to offer the Sawara Grand Festival (above) – which Nokogiri-yama to name a few. – snacks and local booze included. This is the happens twice a year. Each July and October The warm Kuroshio ocean current kind of town you’ll need to explore on foot and the Edo-period streets, lined with wooden brushes past the Boso peninsula, bringing we’d highly recommend taking the trip at float houses, come to life and the area around the an almost tropical feel to areas such as festival time (in 2013 the dates are July 12-14 town’s canals – the ‘suigo’ district – becomes Kamogawa, Chikura and Onjuku, which and October 11-13) or even for the Iris Festival the place to be. are noticeably milder than Tokyo in (Ayame Matsuri) in June. Look out for the It is to these canals the town owed a level winter; there are also plenty of hills to head barrels of multi-award winning sake brewer, of prosperity not seen in many other places to for some respite in the summer. Hot Tokun-shuzo, which has since 1825 grown rice after its formation; Sawara was a key point springs, Edo-period towns, fishing villages, by the Tone river and produced the finest local for merchants doing trade with Edo and many sake breweries and museums make the drink on offer. local bridges and pathways have been neatly prefecture rich with opportunity for restored to reflect that past. It is this heritage exploration. Narita is not just home
1 to an Airport Perhaps surprisingly – at least the way the wind was blowing on the day we visited! – we couldn’t hear the planes taking off just a few kilometers away at the Airport. Your first experience in Narita will probably be a stroll down the quaint and tourist friendly Omotesando street that weaves from just near the station down the hill towards the Narita San (also known as Narita Shinshoji). The one-lane street is lined with trinket sellers 3 and filled with the sweet-smelling smoke 2 from their neighbors, the eel restaurants. You wouldn’t believe 2012 was apparently a bad year for (farmers of) the slippery creatures; the restaurants appear to be thriving and will invite you in for anything from a quick lunch to a fairly gourmet experience you can pay a little more for. The temple itself was founded over 1 Ever spotted this when coming in to land at Narita? 1,000 years ago by high priest Kancho after a 2 Omotesando street in Narita, lined with restaurants rebellion against the central government of and shops 3 Canal boat in Sawara at festival time. Kyoto had been suppressed. It first became
www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 16 | TRAVEL | CHIBA
to find what works for alcohol, and so began Iinuma Sake. At MAP OF CHIBA you. It might depend Iinuma Sake (www.iinumahonke.co.jp) the what you’re eating or owners have decided to open up parts of who you’re with but their brewery to groups who want to take you’ll hopefully find a lesson in sake making – not a set of skills something you like.” you’ll be able to take home and replicate, We tried a couple of but a start-to-finish experience of creating recommended drops, top-grade sake, and that means getting both made with water stuck in with your hands. We watched a that flows underground group steadily polishing and weighing from a nearby spring their rice (to see how much of its husk had and down towards been removed for the perfect ratio) then the temple and were soaking, steaming and readying it for the impressed enough to mash, where, with koji yeast having been take a couple of bottles added and the rice further steamed, the home. final brewing stage occurs while water is added. To see the care and precision that Can you goes into making sake at this level was fascinating – to learn about differences imagine behind some more mysterious labels as paying your eye-opening as the seasonal specials on taxes in offer at the tasting corner. Sake? The Iinuma family was Myth busting in charge of taxes near Even just a couple of days away from the what is now Shisui- city and towards the east and south side machi 300 years ago of the prefecture allowed for a spot of and that meant, at personal myth-busting and we definitely the behest of the local rid ourselves of some false Chiba pre- Chiba-kun, the prefecture’s mascot, has Disneyland on the tip of his tongue 1. The Daimyo, collecting heart of peanut farming in Yachimata (see p. 17) 2. Kamogawa was the first place conceptions. surfers took to the waves in Japan (see p. 22) 3. Chikura is a great place to discover rice from nearby Even the highways have triangular an escape you didn’t realise was so close (see p. 26) 4. Scaling Mt. Nokogiri makes a farmers. People paid warning signs suggesting you might be great day trip (see p. 18) 5. Narita is not just an airport. (see p. 15). their dues in rice and joined on the road by monkeys, deer or there was occasionally any number of the other wild animals who a popular site for pilgrims during the Edo a surplus – and what are you going to do live in the lush forests that fill the Boso Period thanks to renowned Kabuki actor, with all those spare grains? You guessed it… peninsula. To the north it was the rice fields Ichikawa Danjuro, who had his prayers (Are you sensing a theme? If you are, we and simple landscapes that impressed us answered at the temple and consequently don’t blame you – Chiba is well known as a and consistently made us forget that we wrote and starred in many plays about the centre of agriculture and of course rice is a were never more than a couple of hours site and its God, Fudo-myo. large part of that…) The story goes that the from home… We visited a 150-year-old sake maker Daimyo ‘suggested’ the family start brewing on the corner at the top of the hill on our way back to the station – Chomeisen is 1 2 easy to spot and its tasting counter at the front door really did beckon us in… “Actually we’re young – we’re only the fifth generation,” says Masae Takizawa, who was there to generously fill us in on the area’s history – and of course top up our plastic cups. She invited us to take a look at the buildings around the back, which survived at the frontier of a huge fire that destroyed 3 the station and its surrounding buildings in 1945 and which remain at the heart of the operation. The sake has won awards, particularly one variety that is ideal served warm, “but we don’t want people to take it too seriously,” Takizawa says. “You should just enjoy it. Yes, we recommend a 1 Look for the barrels outside Chomeisen 2 Spot the way of drinking our sake and have many tasting counter and step inside 3 Not much has changed at Tokun-shuzo, in Sawara, for almost 200 years. different kinds, but we really just want you
MARCH 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com CHIBA | FEATURE | 17
CHIBA’s FARMERS SHOw US THE SECRET OF THEIR TASTY NUTS
1 the dry heat of the our own new found ability to, we thought, country’s central shock snackers. Mr Fukuda talks in fairly plains. This is serious terms, though. He says peanuts, in one time we can part, helped the hungry and nourished many be thankful for Japanese after the second world war, when Japan’s hot, humid many items were rationed. That hunger and sometimes helped the peanut farmers from Chiba – with seemingly never recovering infrastructure and new railways ending summers. allowing them to travel to Tokyo – quite “It is stimulated an opportunity as they travelled the short by the enthusiasts distance and made their fortune. who come back Right now we’re waiting for the arrival for our produce,” of the yellow flowers – in April or May – that says Fukuda of an will herald the start of a new year’s crop and 3 industry which, the opportunity to make cooking oil, pastes while he admits and snacks of all manner but, for Fukuda and has fallen in the many like him, fresh and natural is best. If you past few decades, haven’t tried them that way, he’d urge you to thrives on demand think about giving it a go. for quality. He talks about the people he calls “heavy users” DID YOU KNOW ? and their insistence The healthy and humble peanut started its journey on Japanese nuts, to Japan in the Andes: Columbus brought the plant of which 80% now 2 to Europe from America and gradually trade along come from Chiba the Silk Road allowed its passage to China. Okinawa hen I see those bocchi in the (the bulk of the rest are grown in neighboring was the first part of Japan to grow the crop but in the fields I’m probably like many Ibaraki). Particularly people who like to eat post war years Chiba farmers spotted their chance people in Chiba,” says Mamoru W their nuts fresh – that is not roasted and salted and found conditions perfectly suited to allow them Fukuda, of Yachimata City’s Chamber of but lightly boiled – have a keen fondness for to thrive. While Japan is globally a comparatively Commerce and Industry, “I know autumn the flavour and indeed texture of Japanese small market, producers here have forged a niche is on its way.” He’s talking about the bails peanuts, Fukuda says, and those people say in the “high-end peanut” market and are known for of freshly harvested peanuts sitting in the that nothing else can compare. That is one the consistency of their crop. sweeping fields gently drying in the late reason wealthy Chinese are snapping them summer sun ready to become snacks for up – they send their fairly cheap pre-made/ Main image: Local peanut farmer 1 Boxes of peanuts true connoisseurs. ready-roast “nut-based snacks” this way and drying naturally in the sun 2 ‘Bocchi’ - bails of freshly Fukuda says they are connoisseurs companies such as Fukuda’s vacuum pack or harvested peanuts 3 The finished product – delicious because he knows that most people who freeze on site some of their best produce and and natural Chiba peanuts. choose Chiba peanuts – particularly from send it in the opposite direction. Yachimata – are after a specific taste; Most of us will have at some point had a American varieties are dried more quickly, friend annoy us with their ‘impressive new often artificially, and those from China, fact’ – that a peanut is not a nut – and though the biggest point of origin for imported we may have groaned to hear the news again varieties, can suffer from time spent in we were perhaps once just as impressed by THE SECRETS OF THE SAW-TOOTH MOUNTAIN
by Peter Sidell o to the top of any of the tall buildings in Tokyo minutes from Hamakanaya JR station) but you can save your and you might get the impression that the legs for the paths at the top by driving or taking the cable car urban labyrinth never ends, so uninterrupted that whisks you to near the summit in just a few minutes. is the greyness spreading towards the horizons. Arriving at the cable car station you’ll find lookouts that give Head east into Chiba prefecture, however, and a sweeping 360-degree panorama: on one side you have a Git’s possible to not only get out into lush green countryside fine view across Tokyo Bay to the Miura Peninsula and, on a and fresh air, but also to take in an important piece of Japan’s very clear day, to the Izu Peninsula and Mount Fuji beyond, spiritual past. while on the other you can see the rough-hewn coastline and Overlooking the town of Kanaya on the coast of Tokyo the scenic, rumpled landscape of low hills inland. Bay, Nokogiriyama isn’t a staid, dreary museum piece; with From there, a short walk along a rough path and down mountaintop lookouts and its sprawling temple grounds and some sheltered steps brings you to Nihon-ji temple, founded gardens, it’s a place where venerable Buddhist statues live in in 725, and it’s here that you’ll find the main must-see sights. harmony with their appealing natural setting. The period of the area’s history as a quarry (from the 14th If you’re feeling energetic it’s possible to scale the 329m to the 18th century) is evident from the straight lines and (1,080ft) mountain on foot from Kanaya in about an hour flat, chiseled rock faces, and from the precise angles of the (the trail starts about 15 minutes from the ferry port, or ten alcove inhabited by the Hyaku-shaku Kannon, a relief image
Photo by Takashi Suzuki CHIBA | TRAVEL | 19
Nokogiriyama 1 isn’t a staid, dreary museum piece; with the mountaintop lookouts and its sprawling temple grounds and gardens, it’s a place where venerable Buddhist statues live in harmony with their appealing 2 natural setting of the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy carved into the rock. At over 30m high she towers over visitors, bestowing mercy on supplicants with 3 a slight frown that suggests she’d rather be out in the open air than stuck in her box. Despite 1 A sceneic walk to the top of the mountain will take you her constriction and the lack of light due to just over an hour 2 Carved statues of Buddhist devotees high walls around, though, she’s an impressive and deities 3 Don’t get too close to te edge at the famous “The view of hell”. piece of work and appears dignified and austere. From here you can take the ‘1500-Arhat Down a slope you come to the stately A few minutes on from the Kannon is the Approach’ down the mountain. This long path Daibutsu, sitting meditatively on his pedestal in Ruriko observatory, a collection of lookout winds left and right and up and down past a tranquil clearing; he’s around the same height points providing more views out across Tokyo shelves, caves and alcoves in the rock, some as the Kannon and as elegantly simple a piece of Bay, and also of the forested hills stretching naturally formed, some man-made, and each work, but the setting gives him a more peaceful north towards Tokyo. One of the lookouts here clustered with carved statues of Buddhist air than his companion up the hill. At 31m he’s is known as Jigoku Nozoki, ‘A view of hell’, devotees and deities. There are only in fact the largest stone-carved Buddha figure in Japan, after the vertiginous drop it overlooks from its 538 now, as many of those originally placed with a deeply serene expression and posture that precarious-looking outcrop above the Kannon; here were destroyed in a nationwide wave acts in harmony with the natural surroundings to I’m sure it’s perfectly safe, but I wouldn’t like to of anti-Buddhist violence, prompted by the create a restful atmosphere, making this the best be there during an earthquake. government’s establishment of Shinto as the place on the mountain to pause for a break, some state religion and the outlawing of Buddhist reflection and perhaps a picnic lunch. practice at the start of the Meiji Period in 1868; If you want to approach the mountain as DID YOU KNOW ? however, those that survived are still numerous originally intended then the main entrance to enough to display a tremendous variety of Nihon-ji is actually along the coast between The Daibutsu represents Yakushi Nyorai, the expressions, with as wide a range as humans Hamakanaya and Hota stations. The narrow path Buddha of Healing; he took three years to carve, in their postures, faces and manners. They’re takes you slowly uphill through an airy forest of between 1780 and 1783. standing, sitting and occasionally reclining, tall, slender trees until you come to two ancient Owing to weathering and earthquake damage, smiling, frowning, sometimes scowling, each stone lanterns that stand like sentinels on either the Daibutsu needed extensive restoration and in a rather un-saintly fashion. Some of them side. The vermilion buildings at the entrance make that was completed in 1966. The Hyakushaku chat convivially with their neighbours, some of a striking contrast with the lush greenery around, Kannon was carved at the same time as this them perch in hermit-like solitude. Many are and beyond them there’s a compact garden with restoration work and was completed in 1963. badly weathered or cracked, or lack limbs or cherry blossom trees overlooking a pond spanned Hyaku means 100; shaku is a traditional heads – beheading was a common method of by stone bridges that look as old as anything else unit of measurement based on the average Meiji-era violation – but those that have made here. length between nodes on bamboo, defined it through the ages intact display the exquisite Just a couple of hours south of the big city, as being 10/33m, or 30.3cm. Although its use craftsmanship, lavish attention to detail and Nokogiriyama makes for a day out that’s both was discontinued by law in 1966, it’s still used imagination of their makers. refreshing and interesting, leaving you to head informally in such fields as traditional carpentry. This is also a very atmospheric part of the back to the urban jungle with a clear mind and
An Arhat is a Buddhist disciple who has achieved mountain; while the very top is rather bare lifted spirits. nirvana, or complete spiritual enlightenment; the in places, along these paths it seems nature 1500 Arhat statues were carved between 1779 is determinedly encroaching to reclaim its Access: Hamakanaya and Hota stations are on the and 1798. territory. There are steps and stones completely JR Uchibo line; it’s also possible to reach Kanaya by overgrown with vivid green moss and ferns the Tokyo Bay ferry from Kurihama if you’re coming Nokogiriyama means ‘Saw-tooth mountain’ and growing out of the cracks, roots push their from south west of Tokyo, or along Route 127 down its name pertains to its jagged, zigzag profile. This way up out of the earthen paths and a fallen the coast if you’re driving. The Tokyo Bay Aqua- comes from its days as a quarry, when it was tree across one of the flights of steps has been Line, too, offers a ‘shortcut’ with a view. used as a source of stone to lay foundations in there long enough for ivy to have completely the marshy land on which Edo was built. overgrown and enveloped its base.
www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 NARITA AIRPORT JAPAN’s GATEWAY TO THE WORLD
NArita AIRPORT apan’s skies are changing drastically. Around 80,000 people a day are entering and leaving the country to and from Fly to 10 cities 99 cities around the world and Narita AirportJ is their gateway. within Japan International airlines have always had strong presence at Narita Airport, however recently low-cost domestic carriers are attracting a lot of attention, with their number steadily increasing. Whether your trip is a holiday or you’re going away on business, Narita is a truly modern airport with the facilities to meet your expectations and the capacity to cope with the challenges new trends in aviation have brought. These changes have brought a renewed focus on the customer experience and Narita Airport not only gets you to where you need to go but will treat you with the kind of hospitality you’d expect from the best in the world. NARITA AIRPORT | ADVERTISING | 21 NARITA AIRPORT UNDER AN HOUR BALANCE arita is under an hour away from most parts of he airport has found the central Tokyo. If you use the sleek Keisei Skyliner, balance between efficiency changing at Nippori, your journey will be just 47 and comfort. It is spacious and minutes from Tokyo Station, 41 minutes from Ueno, has the capacity to provide N48 minutes from Ikebukuro, 56 minutes from Shinjuku and 58 speedT for business travelers as well as minutes from Shinagawa. There are many companies that will relaxation for those on vacation. Narita take you to the airport, be that by bus or train, making Narita has worked to remove the stress from nearer than you think. With the growth in numbers of low- your airport experience with extremely cost carriers taking advantage of Narita Airport’s capacity, hospitable service, state of the art access from the capital has become even easier. From Ginza, facilities and a smooth, modern feel for example, you can reach the airport in around an hour to everything from digital signage to on the Access Narita bus and bus services such as the Tokyo observation decks. Shuttle make it possible to get from Tokyo Station to Narita Airport for as little as ¥1,000. This service enables travelers to arrive at the airport early in the morning when trains aren’t running. CHOICES
irlines fly from Narita to 99 cities around the world and 10 different cities in Japan. Low-cost carriers can take youA to the beaches of Okinawa or ski resorts of Hokkaido and the world’s major airlines can take you in comfort to almost anywhere in the world. There is a choice of six low-cost carrier companies at Narita Airport, going to eight international destinations as well as four domestic cities and in the future those numbers are expected to grow further. This way of flying has proved popular with families who want to get the most out of their holiday budget, sometimes saving up to 75%, even on domestic flight tickets.
SHOPPING & EVENTS
he Oasis Project, in tandem with the traditional Japanese aesthetic of parts of the airport, involves concerts and events that will make your time at Narita Airport – however short or long – a Tpleasure. World class shopping facilities and international or local dining options will help get your holiday/trip back home off to a great start.
AIRPORT NAVI APPLICATION
ownload the free NRT_Airport Navi app for your iPhone or Android smartphone before your journey and the experience will be even smoother. The app provides flight information and details, displays airport maps (working with your smartphone’s GPS and the free Wi-Fi available throughoutD the airport) and advises you of any necessary info for your journey with its MY FLIGHT facility. 22 | TRAVEL | CHIBA
MAKING WAVES IN KAMOGAWA
he first surfers to take to the waves the town feels like a genuinely year-round in Japan did so at Kamogawa in destination. the 1950s and it is the ocean that Cyclists head to the palm tree lined keeps many people coming back coastline and hikers head to nearby Mt. again and again to an area rich Takazuru; people pick strawberries, withT outdoor opportunities. blueberries and mikan oranges at local The town, which sits on the south east farms and fish for local species from the coast of the Boso Peninsula, acts as a base for beach or a boat and many of them, we’re many fans of outdoor activities and the local told, can’t believe how close the resort-style waters – warmed by the Kuroshio Current, city is to Tokyo. which brushes past the southern Boso The white sand of local beaches is far peninsula – play a key part in that. removed from many other locations in Sea kayaking schools, surf rental shops, Kanto and really is worth traveling for; paragliding and scuba diving centers come it is clean, the water is blue – great for to life between spring and autumn but, as the swimming as well as surfing in the summer local climate is also warm and the local area – and the seemingly endless Pacific offers a has a somewhat tropical feel, it’s no wonder fresh ocean breeze.
MARCH 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com CHIBA | TRAVEL | 23
1 3
to often rave about the gentler side of the creatures. If timed carefully it is also possible to take in the killer whale show while eating lunch at the park’s Ocean restaurant.
Seaworld’s “Tropical Island” area has deep, emerald green water brimming will colourful fish and coral reef – definitely one for wannabe scuba divers to get inspired by. At the “Eco- 2 aquarium” fish local to the waters off the Boso peninsula live in a natural recreation of their home. Polar Adventure takes us to each end of the world with sea otters and flightless penguins.
For more information on Kamogawa Sea World visit: www.kamogawa-seaworld.jp/
1 Rowing over to Niemonjima 2 Impressive diving just a few english/ minutes off the shore 3 The adventurous take to the skies.
There are lots of points to explore on family-friendly days out and is KAMOGAWA’S ONSENS your travels around the sweeping just a short distance from central coastline that makes up the area. Kamogawa. Its 58 tanks are home If you head to the Futomi area to 11,000 sea creatures from 800 – famous for the Futomi Flower different species including sea Center – you’ll find one of the turtles, Japanese spider crabs, prefecture’s Designated Places of pelicans, jellyfish, sharks and Scenic Beauty, Niemonjima Island. performing whales and dolphins. The Niemon family privately owns Kamogawa Seaworld is famous Many of Kamogawa’s local it but visitors can easily arrange a for being the first place in Japan hotels and traditional ryokan rowing boat to take them across to breed and teach tricks to killer offer outdoor baths. This to the island, which is home to whales and show visitor why is in part due to the warm wildlife and vegetation not found the magnificent creatures are local temperatures on the anywhere else, as well as 300-year- known as the “kings of the sea.” peninsula but even in winter old architecture that has stood the The whales seem to have great they offer a fantastic way to test of time. rapport with their trainers and unwind after a day of action Speak to the local shop owners visitors, especially kids, are said by the coast. and you’ll hear of hidden alcoves and caves to kayak towards and learn of 1 coral-like underwater formations perfect for anything up to some fairly advanced scuba diving. Anyone wishing to get out of Tokyo, be that by road or rail, will find just a couple of hours away a great location for active pursuits that will refresh the mind and body.
SEA WORLD 2 You can watch beluga whales, stroke dolphins, have your picture taken with sea lions or even kiss a killer whale at Kamogawa Seaworld. Located along Tojoh beach, with 3 a terrific view of the Pacific Ocean, 1 Having a killer time in the pool 2 this offers one of Chiba Prefecture Gorgeous coastline 3 You don’t need to go and indeed the Kanto region’s most scuba diving to meet this little fella’.
www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 BUSINESS IN CHIBA THE GATEWAY
TO jAPAN by Matthew Hernon Home to the port of Chiba and Narita International Airport, Chiba Prefecture is the gateway to Japan, yet at the same time it offers much more than a point at which to start or end your Japan journey.
elightful scenery, striking coastlines, a vast Where in Chiba? collection of historical sites and Tokyo Another hugely significant development in Chiba’s Disney Resort make it a place well worth history was the construction of the Makuhari Complex in visiting – and staying. Yet beyond Mickey the 1980s. With hotels, restaurants, cinemas, shopping and Minnie, there are also some great malls and parks along the seashore, it has become one businessD opportunities, particularly for foreign-affiliated of the most popular tourist areas in the region as well companies looking to invest in areas outside the capital. as being one of the country’s most significant business Starting a business or setting up a new office is never districts. easy, particularly in a foreign country, but luckily there The main attraction there is Makuhari Messe, the is help at hand. Chiba Investment Support Center (CISC) second largest convention complex in Japan behind offers a wide range of free services to help international Tokyo Big Sight, which plays host to a variety of important companies that are attempting to set up or become trade shows such as CEATEC, SEMICON and FOODEX. established in the area, but why should one choose Chiba? Along with Makuhari, Oribe names “Kashiwanoha” and “Kazusa Akademia Park” as places with great Why Chiba? potential in the region, though he believes that “virtually “Chiba has a number of advantages that make it a great any area in Chiba would be worth investing in, depending place to do business,” says CISC’s Shigeyuki Oribe. “The on the industry.” fact that the commercial center, Makuhari, is so near Tokyo and Narita Airport (both are around 30 minutes What does CISC offer? from the airport by train and bus respectively) makes it Before investing in anything in the prefecture it would be extremely handy for business people.” a good idea to give CISC a call. Unsurprisingly, there are a “Cost is another factor. In Makuhari you can find number of hurdles to overcome when starting a business comfortable and well-equipped offices that don’t require in Japan and it is essential to have a good understanding huge rent like in Tokyo, sometimes it is up to 60% cheaper. of the regulations and customs in this country. That is People also enjoy an excellent quality of life as well as where CISC can prove invaluable. being able to find some great opportunities in a wide “We have a number of experienced advisers that can variety of industries.” help companies develop their business plans in addition That hasn’t always been the case. Until the 1950s, to providing support with things like obtaining a visa Chiba had little in the way of industry apart from the or registering a company,” says Oribe. “On top of that brewing of soy sauce, liquor and sweet sake. In the we provide information about office space and factory decades that followed, however, officials went to great facilities (to buy and to rent), and we can also introduce lengths to attract major enterprise to the area. It proved experts who give advice on both legal and tax issues.” a success, helping to turn Chiba in to one of Japan’s most important industrial regions, particularly in the steel, For more information you can check the CISC website: chemical, petrochemical and machinery industries. www.businesssupport-chiba.jp/eng/top/ CHIBA | ADVERTORIAL | 25
The quiet, peaceful surroundings make it an ideal location for both executive off-site meetings and international conferences
There are a number of dining options allowing guests to choose from Western style food at Camellia, Japanese style at Sazanka or Yamazato and Chinese style at the renowned Toh-Ka-Lin. The restaurants, lounge (Ciel Bleu), bar (Orchid Bar), and banquet halls are all open to non-staying guests.
Kazusa Akademia Hall The complex has a number of state-of-the-art conference rooms and halls that have earned a reputation for being amongst the best in the Kazusa Academia Park country. Varying in size, the contemporary rooms are all equipped with high-tech equipment and comfortable furniture. Kazusa Arc is a distinguished convention and resort complex less The quiet, peaceful surroundings make than 60-minutes drive from Tokyo via the Tokyo Bay Aqua-Line. it an ideal location for both executive off-site meetings and international conferences. Last Whether it is business, sightseeing or a round of golf that brings you year, Kazusa Akademia Hall played host to a to the area, the center, set amid year-round greenery of the Boso conference led by delegates from developing nations who had taken part in the IMF and Peninsula in Chiba, will meet your needs. World Bank meetings in Tokyo. More and more companies, particularly kura, one of Japan’s most popular For sporty guests there is the adjacent foreign ones, are being drawn to the venue hotel groups, is known for its Aqua Kazusa Sports Club, which has a wide and it is easy to understand why. Close outstanding facilities and first- range of facilities, including a 25-metre proximity to Tokyo, superb facilities, clean class-service, yet an advantage swimming pool, an aerobics studio, a sauna air and a number of golf courses nearby, it thatO this particular hotel has over others is and a training room. In addition to that, sounds like the perfect place to do business. that because it is located in such a secluded there are 12 golf courses within a 30-minute area, space is not an issue. drive of the resort, while those interested in For more information on Kazusa After exiting the highway just after shopping can visit the nearby Mitsui Outlet Academia Park please visit: crossing the Tokyo Bay Aqua-Line into Chiba Park Kisarazu, which has over 170 stores. www.kap.co.jp/english/ you’ll pass Kasusa Golf Club and head through the forest towards the Academia park, its 1 R&D facilities and the resort-oriented hotel itself. There are 124 rooms in a wide range of sizes, from Standard Doubles, a comfortable 28-30 m sq, to the Royal Suite Room, which is a luxurious 120 m sq. All the rooms have a classical feel with modern touches, allowing 2 guests a comfortable and relaxing stay. 3 Rooms offer great views of the local area and on a clear day even Tokyo Skytree is visible across nearby Tokyo Bay, a reminder of how accessible the place is from the capital. In truth though, it feels a million miles away; around the hotel there is an oasis of serenity amidst acres of forest and 1 Sleek and modern interior design 2 Impressive conference facilities 3 Total relaxation at the hotel’s spa. beautiful grasslands.
www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 26 | FEATURE | CHIBA CHIKURA... GET OUT OF TOWN t is a love affair with the area that started 1 2 back in April 1977 when, living in Tokyo as a teacher at an international school, David Green, his wife, Yoshiko, and two friends, asked themselves a simple question one Iweekend: ‘Why don’t we go on a bike trip?’ They rode down as far as Kawasaki and hopped on the now non-existant ferry that would take them over to Kisarazu and eventually down towards Tateyama and the southern tip of the Boso Peninsula near Chikura. They found a place that they would return to year after year. 3 Today it is the Tokyo Bay Aqua-Line or a ferry from Kurihama, near Chigasaki, that is many people’s route direct from Tokyo but you can also go down by bus very easily (and also directly) from Tokyo station in under two hours. When people do make the trip – for the weekend or even just a day – they are, we hear, often surprised with what they find and just how near it is to home. Below: Surfer strolls out to sea 1 Perfect weather for a Green went yearly with friends before picnic at the Lodge 2 Flowers in full bloom this month 3 returning with his 9th grade students for cycle trips A group of childeren enjoy a cycle tour. in the natural surroundings many of them couldn’t believe were just over an hour or so from the city. His cycle trips, beach days, barbecues and spring Everyone is welcome: we saw a couple discussing “We’d camp on the beach at first, he says, “but music festivals are not the only thing bringing guests something on their laptop and the lunch-time rush we gradually got more organized – at some point in back to the town year after year. brought tourists on their way to the nearby Flower the 80s we started wearing helmets!” He eventually Chikura has in recent years become known as Line – already coming into bloom this early in set up home, and business, in the area and is now something of a colony for artists. The Chikura Kaigan spring. based permanently in Chikura – “one day you Museum of Art has got quite a bit of media attention We met Kanamoto-san down the road at Indy’s, wake up and realize you are where you belong,” he due to its founder, well-known photographer a classic American diner-style pizza café that could says – where he runs Discover Japan from a lodge Shimpei Asai, and many more who had once been double as home to any bikers in the area – the mock surrounded by thick bamboo forest that the sound visitors have ended up staying. motorbike garage fills the corner of the room but it of the nearby sea washes over. We took a stroll around the town and found many was the pizzas he shoveled out of his terracotta style The center hosts schools, groups and families local cafes, pensions and restaurants with a stylish oven that made us promise to be back. with children of any age and occasionally couples aesthetic and a welcoming ethos. Locals seemed to Green always urges people they should stay or groups of friends and has a simple philosophy: go out of their way to help us – foreigners come to over in Chikura. It’s so close, but if you come “We want to get people out of Tokyo, especially to a the area often and many of the business owners we down Friday night, “the feeling of waking up here, part of Japan that is special to us and that they might met had been travellers themselves. We met Toshiro surrounded by nature with a whole weekend not see living in such a big city. There is potential to Komiyama, who worked with Asai, and he told us it before you is just unrivalled.” either be quite active or relax while enjoying the was his love of Ernest Hemingway and his lifestyle – Mr Nakagawa is another who first came to the beautiful local nature and it’s all so close.” and a visit to his former Key West home – that led him town due to Asai’s museum and it’s no coincidence to open Sand Café that his Porto Maison Rooms, a sophisticated and back in 1994 after modern small hotel near the Flower Line, also has initially coming to an open, Key West feel. Its relaxed café allows pets, the area to work as do the rooms upstairs – great news for many who at the museum. don’t want to leave anyone behind in Tokyo. We sat in its rustic Hawaii-inspired Long Field is another option, wooden building only a couple of minutes’ walk form the beach at and drank excellent Chikura. It is airy and light and, as in many of the coffee from what places we visit, we got the feeling that a design- he called “rugged” minded owner had brought quite a natural and cups – Komiyama personal touch to the place. imagined when Overall we agree with David that a weekend – surfing he could or even longer – would be a great amount of time have a place to to spend in the area. For years people have been relax afterwards finding a place they might not have known existed and live a simple so close to Tokyo and that such rural hospitality is so lifestyle only a town welcoming to foreigners means that we might have like this could offer. a new favorite getaway.
MARCH 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com DIsCOVERING CHIKURA
PIZZA INDY’S PORTO MAISON ROOMS
Pizza “Indy’s” Cafe & Hotel Porto Maison Rooms Addres: 167-1 Makita, Chikura-cho, Chiba, 295-005 Addres: 301 Kawaguchi, Chikura-cho, Chiba 295-0023 Tel: 0470-44-0599 Tel: 0470-43-1008
SEASIDE PENSION LONG FieLDS SAND CAFE
Seaside pension “Long Fields” Sand Cafe Addres: 2965-4 Kitaasai Chikura-cho, Chiba 295-0011 Addres: 2908-1 Seto, Chikura-cho, Chiba 295-0004 Tel: 0470-40-0955 Tel: 0470-44-5255
www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 28 | CULTURE | CRAFTS CHOPSTICKS 101 PICKING UP THE PIeCES
hether you’re a dexterous whiz or fledging finger manipulator with them by Vivian Morelli Did you know? in your hands, whether you think they Chopsticks are such an important part make your dish taste more authentic or Chopsticks: The Low Down of Japanese culture that the country has Chopsticks are one of the go-to presents Wsimply allow you to scan through emails or slash some designated August 4 every year “Chopstick visitors to Japan pick up as keepsakes or more watermelons on Fruit Ninja in your non-eating Day” to express appreciation to chopsticks to give away as tokens of their journey, hand on your iPhone while dining, you’ve got to respect for their “contributions to dining” and to so deeply rooted into our perceptions those sticks. Once limited to this side of the Pacific bless the bamboo trees that have been cut of Japanese culture as they are. As you Ocean, chopsticks are now staple tools in the hands of down to make them. Around 100 people know, their use is not limited to Japan and skilled noodle slurpers and rice eaters around the world. head that day to Hie Shrine in Tokyo and collectors who visit China, Korea, Vietnam throw 7,000 pairs to pray for health. or any number of other nations may find a different style according to cuisine and Etiquette cultural variations. In fact whole theses exist While some points of etiquette (don’t exploring the relationship between family point them at anyone and definitely don’t makeup, education levels and climate on stab anyone) are fairly obvious, some we the development of design differences; it’s have to learn as we go when living here in not only food habits that mean Chinese Japan. You’ll probably have been told that chopsticks are longer and thicker than chopsticks should be held towards their many, for example, though it is thought the end, not in the middle or the front third. practice of “raking” food into the mouth We’d guess someone’s also already let you is one reason points were never ‘sharp’. know leaving stuck-up chopsticks into your Japanese chopsticks are shorter and do tend food, especially rice, is a major no-no as to taper to a point, while Korean chopsticks this is only done at funerals with rice at the are characteristically made of metal. altar. In the same vein, passing food directly from your set of chopsticks to another is one A Bit of Background more funeral tradition – involving passing Just like paper, printing, gunpowder and the bones of a cremated body – to avoid compasses, chopsticks originated in China. mimicking lest you offend. The first chopsticks were not used as eating utensils, but were probably used only for Handcrafted Chopsticks cooking, stoking a fire, serving or grabbing Whether made of lacquered wood or bits of food from a communal bowl – which bamboo, whether ornate or simple in may have been further away than dainty design, a set of chopsticks can be a gorgeous modern Japanese hashi could reach… It keepsake that doubles up with some daily appears that the Chinese started using functionality. They are often offered as sticks of wood in order to take food from gifts or tokens of good luck and unique, the fire and it wasn’t until the Han Dynasty high quality styles can be found for that – approximately 2,000 years ago – that purpose. More than 80% of the lacquered chopsticks were first raised to the mouth as chopsticks (Wakasa-nuri) in Japan are a matter of course. Rulers were said later to made in Obama/Wakasa Bay area of Fukui have often used silver chopsticks, convinced Prefecture. In Obama, there are only as they were that the metal would change four people who are acknowledged to be colour if poison was present in the food. traditional industrial craftsmen by the Legend says Confucius had a major Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry influence on their development due to his – these are craftsmen who make only the non-violent teachings: his philosophy was highest quality lacquered chopsticks. Using that instruments such as knives, with their shells and eggshells and patterning with a connections to war and violence, were not polished finish, these traditional chopsticks to be used at the dinner table and advocated are still crafted in the same way as in days the new trend for chopsticks. (Then we gone by and by owning a set you could help went and earned the Samurai blade to cut preserve an important tradition. through those melon pixels while we ate in Browse the creations of local artisans and the ramen shop – sorry Confucius…) learn more at jcrafts.com.
MARCH 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com
ART ISLANDS Yayoi Kusama “Pumpkin” (Photo: Shigeo Anzai)
wanted to create a kind of paradise Fukutake has used a significant that would reflect the beauty of portion of his considerable wealth Japan and the spirit of Shinto,” says turning the barren, aging and WELCOME Soichiro Fukutake, Chairman & depopulated islands of the Seto Inland CEO of educational giants Benesse Sea into not only his “paradise” but IHoldings, Inc. “People here (in Japan) also into one of the most remarkable no longer appreciate how attractive and and breathtaking art destinations in enchanting this country is, they seem to the world. Weekender recently met TO THE focus their attention entirely on money. It up with the man, who currently lives is like our values have been polluted by the in New Zealand, to find out more western world, a place where cash is king, about the project and his recent 2012 so it is natural that people chase money, Montblanc Patron of Art award. Cont. ART ISLANDS but Japan shouldn’t be like that.” on next page by Matthew Hernon www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 It was terrible to see a beautiful island like Naoshima being damaged by industrialization, it reflected how greedy people had become here and I wanted to do something about it. I see this project as a kind of counter-measure to the excesses that have spoiled this land.
ince its founding over 100 years ago, Montblanc has made a unique commitment to the art world by promoting a variety of activities that celebrate the beauty of art whilst also Sacknowledging its importance for current and artists in their rooms, the museum and on by the lessons there that he decided to buy future generations. the lawns and beaches surrounding the main the company outright. Acquiring control of As well as supporting up-and-coming building. The coexistence of art and nature a foreign organization was a bold move for a artists, it has also been keen to recognize people makes it a truly spectacular site. traditional Japanese company like Fukutake who make outstanding contributions to the Just as fascinating is the Chichu Art Publishing, as they were then known, but he development of art and culture through the Museum, also designed by Ando. To protect the had no hesitation. They have since, under the Montblanc de la Culture Arts Patronage Award, stunning scenery of Naoshima, he constructed name Benesse, gone on to become one of the which was set up in 1992. the vast majority of the building underground, biggest educational companies in the world. The award – its prize including a limited yet despite this the galleries receive an “We are growing all the time. We now edition ‘Patron of Art’ fountain pen and 15,000 abundance of natural light. Artworks by James have over 230 Senior Nursing facilities, but our euros that the winner can donate to a project Turrell, Walter De Maria and Claude Monet are main business is in correspondence education of his/her choice – is handed out annually in on permanent display there; the latter of the that includes online and postal services. We 12 different countries: China, France, Germany, three is Mr. Fukutake’s favourite artist and he have operations in over 70 countries and at the Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Russia, purchased five original paintings from Monet’s moment we are the third largest educational Spain, the UK and the US. There are three Water Lilies series with the aim of making them company in the world. My goal is to make sure nominees in each country and the winners the “iconic pieces” of the museum. that we reach number one. are each selected by a jury of internationally Other destinations worth visiting in You don’t necessarily need an abundance renowned artists. Past honorees include Queen Naoshima include the Lee Ufan Museum, a of capital and stock to get there. For me the Sofia of Spain, the Prince of Wales, Yoko Ono and collaboration between Ando and the renowned greatest organization on the planet is the the late Susan Sontag. Korean minimalist painter, Ufan, and the Art Catholic Church; they have properties all House Project, a collection of abandoned houses over the world, yet they don’t have products The Islands that have been converted in to wonderful to sell. All they have is a message and our “It was terrible to see a beautiful island like installations. On top of all that there are also the establishment is built around a similar model. Naoshima being damaged by industrialization,” museums in Teshima and Inujima. The project Our name, Benesse, derives from a Latin Fukutake says, “It reflected how greedy people has proved to be a massive success not only in phrase meaning ‘live well’ and this is a message had become here and I wanted to do something terms of the number of people visiting, but also we hope to spread globally through our about it. That is why I decided to build museums in how it has it has rejuvenated an aging society. educational programs, art projects and nursing there. I see this project as a kind of counter- Elderly tourists often help with the project, services.” measure to the excesses that have spoiled this working voluntarily as tour guides. It was during his stay in Tokyo when Mr. land.” Thanks to Fukutake’s vision and funding, Fukutake started to become captivated by the Benesse Art Site Naoshima, the collective the island has become one of the top tourist idea of living well. People in the capital city name for art activities on the islands of destinations in the country. It would have been were “moving too quickly, had lots of stress, Naoshima, Teshima and Inujima, houses some easy to stop after Benesse House had been were overly obsessed with material things and of the most unique museums in the world. One completed in 1992 but he was determined to had no real awareness of what was around of the core facilities in the area is the Benesse make the whole area somewhere to be proud of. them.” Moving away from that environment, House. Designed by one of the country’s most he found a healthier, happier existence and celebrated architects, Tadao Ando, it doubles Why Benesse? he wanted to share that feeling with others. up as an art museum and a resort hotel. Guests Back in 1991, after a six-week study course at Through his obvious passion for the arts, we can enjoy the work of internationally acclaimed Berlitz in New York, Fukutake was so impressed feel sure he will achieve his goals.
MARCH 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com TRAVEL | ART | 33
2 THE ENCHANTED ISLANDS The Setouchi Triennale brings striking 1 Funjo Hagetaka “20th Century Recall” art to the inland sea west of Kansai 2 Shinji Ohmaki “Liminal Air - core -” 3 1 Yodogawa Technique “Black Porgy in Uno” by Adam Miller 3 he Setouchi Triennale – a contemporary to the islands of art festival held on multiple islands in the Setouchi Area, the Seto Inland Sea, including perhaps where nature and its best known, Naoshima – will return people harmonize toT the area this year after a successful inaugural together,” was well event three years ago. If you’ve heard of the rewarded, with islands and always wanted to visit, now could be almost a million the perfect time. visitors heading to The festival not only celebrates the works – see the vast range of many of them iconic outdoor sculptures – that art on display. Once are permanently housed on the islands but also again, the festival curates a collection of specially commissioned has attracted some Photos by Osamu Nakamura Osamu by Photos international pieces spread out in clusters over of Japan’s finest more than a dozen locations, split into spring, artists as well as international stars from China, “Seirensho”. If you want to see each of the three summer and autumn schedules. The Triennale France, Portugal, Spain, Argentina, Switzerland seasons’ exhibitions, there is an all-inclusive offers a chance to enjoy some of the best and Germany. “In today’s globalizing world,” Passport, valid for the entire year, which costs a contemporary art around as well as a great excuse organizers say, “with increasing homogenization mere ¥5,000. to explore Okayama and Kagawa prefectures. and streamlining, the islands are losing their Although these Passports will get you in to see When the festival started in 2010, its unique characteristics.” Bringing together such a the vast majority of the works being displayed, organizers’ ambitious concept, to “return vitality selection of world talent could, they hope, mean some aspects of the festival require a separate fee. “new opportunities for For example, you can visit Naoshima’s famous 1 the rebirth of the Seto Chichu museum for ¥1,000 or duck into the caves Inland Sea.” at Megijima for just ¥300. The Takamatsu city The works on display swimming pool has the “Hiroko Taniyama I’m are just as varied as the here” experience, which will cost ¥500 for adults nationalities of the more and just ¥330 for high school students. Perhaps than 200 creators, with the most enticing, however, is the Naoshima bath, paintings, sculptures, charmingly named “I Love 湯 (yu)” – yu being performance art, the Japanese for hot-water and a character that installations and many decorates the exterior of many a hot bath nation events held in parallel. wide. This is only ¥500 and well worth a visit. The 2013 Setouchi Triennale is an Your Passport adventurous project and one that aims to to the Art please the taste of anyone with even a fleeting The Art Setouchi Passport, interest in art. The works are as varied as they available at many of the are enthralling and the organizers have worked 3 1 Installation by German artist Tobias museums and locations alongside local businesses to make this a real Rehberger 2 Noe Aoki “Particles in but also in advance, success. It may seem a little daunting to have the Air / Karato” 3 Harumi Yukutake “Epuioise” offers great value. It so much choice at your disposal but for more costs ¥4,500 (¥3,500 in information and detailed suggested itineraries, 2 advance, under 15s free) however much time you have, simply visit the and provides access/ detailed English-language website. This really admission to all Triennale does seem too good a chance to pass up. works as well as to other related art facilities, such The opening dates are from March 20th until April as the Lee Ufan Museum, 21st. The summer exhibitions will be open between Benesse House Museum, July 20th and September 1st and the final set of Art House Project, and dates will run from October 5th to November 4th.
Photos by Osamu Nakamura Osamu by Photos the Inujima Art Project For more details: http://setouchi-artfest.jp/en/
www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 34 | TRAVEL | OKAYAMA
INLAND ISLANDS WITH A VIEW by Adam Miller
t the southernmost point of Kurashiki to many. The town is called the ‘town of textiles’ due city, Okayama prefecture, expansive and to the roots of that industry here and it is particularly spectacular views out into the Seto Inland denim collectors and hardcore jeans fans that visit. Sea are interrupted only by the many In the 60s the first domestically produced jeans were Aislands dotted around the bay and one of the most made here and today the Jeans Museum will teach you remarkable feats of engineering in the country. more about the industry and show you the quality that The Great Seto Bridge is a 13.1 km long, two-tiered comes off the local looms. structure that spans the inland sea between Honshu All around the area you’ll find local dishes with and Shikoku, crossing five small islands and taking in a focus on seafood, with octopus and tai (sea bream) much of the Setonaikai National Park on its way. Built seemingly ubiquitous in this area. Octopus here is between 1978-1988, it is the longest two-tiered bridge not frozen for transportation so avoids the chewiness system in the world and you can either drive across the some associate with the creature and locals proudly highway on the top deck – well worth it for the view – or celebrate how soft and succulent it is. Perhaps the take a train on the lower. most popular dish here though – and indeed all around This isn’t just a bridge – it really has to be seen to Okayama – is barazushi, a seasonal selection of the be believed and takes in some incredible surroundings. freshest local fish arranged on a dish of sushi rice. This It is such an impressive structure that the vast majority made a great lunch. of the surrounding companies are focused towards it, This part of Japan may seem a little off the beaten with local hotels priding themselves on offering great track but with so many sights nearby would be worth views and lookout points, cafes, restaurants and gift finding a base here to explore further. There is plenty shops standing in its shadows. We found the Okayama of opportunity to relax and just enjoy the view but if coastline to be particularly beautiful at dusk and dawn you come towards the summer you might also find – most impressive for us was the way colours changed some more active pursuits based around the local throughout the day as we explored the region, and that beaches that come to life when the weather warms up. would be the same were you traveling by car, train or on foot. Map of the area The walk up nearby Washuzan mountain (near Washuzan Highlands amusement park) is perhaps the best place to take in the local scenery. A fairly easy- going hiking trail offers impressive views and on crisp late winter’s morning, with a clear sky, it was well worth going up a little bit further than the visitor center and main lookout to the 133m summit, a really peaceful place to stop. Kojima, in southern Kurashiki, is a small town not far from the bridge that despite its size is known
MARCH 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com WHERE TO STAY IN SETOUCHI
SETOUCHI KOJIMA HOTEL odeled on the shape of a luxurious sea-liner, the Setouchi Kojima Hotel stands proud at the top of a lush green Mhill overlooking the Seto Bridge and the sea separating Okayama from Shikoku, which turns from a tranquil turquoise during the day to a deep amber as the sun slowly sets. It is not surprising that such a captivating view attracts so many brides and grooms who want their special day to be extraordinary. But the Kojima Hotel doesn’t rest on its laurels, relying solely on the local landscape; it also has spectacular Japanese and French restaurants as well as a breakfast buffet and an impressive range of entertainment. The biggest draw is perhaps the hot baths, which boast large separated areas for both male and female guests, with veranda-baths overlooking the amazing Seto Bridge. Be sure to time your visit alongside Bridge Illumination dates, as seeing it lit up is a wonder to behold.
Address: 303-53, Shimotsui Fukiage, Okayama, 711-0926 Web: www.setouchi-kojima-hotel.jp Tel: 086-473-7711 | Fax: 086-473-7727
f you were to judge the quality of a business by the SHIMODEN HOTEL patrons it attracts, the Shimoden hotel would bask in I its high accolades. It is easy to see why the hotel is so popular with both domestic and international guests, with its long history (81 years and counting) mixed with its family friendly approach to hospitality it truly is a special place to stay. The hotel has a private beach and large barbecue area, a pool (with a water slide) and a luxurious, unisex hot bath built level with the lapping waves of the ocean. The food is exceptional, with freshly caught local specialties such as succulent octopus and tai (sea bream), being served at the on site restaurant year round.
Address: Ohama Kaigan, Kurashiki-city, Okayama, 711-0924 Web: http://shimoden.bonvoyage.co.jp/english.html Tel: 086-479-7111 | Fax: 086-479-7117
HIGHLAND HOTEL he Highland Hotel has achieved the near impossible by balancing an air of authentically Japanese tradition with all Tof the luxuries of a modern hotel. Originally built in 1980, the hotel is made up of several buildings and has 76 rooms, each of which is furnished with tatami mats and thick, soft futons. Popular with an international demographic, the comfortable and serene Highland Hotel often acts as a base for travellers who are able to explore surrounding cities (Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima etc.), and then return to the welcoming Highland, its natural hot spring baths and panoramic views of the ocean. For those with the means to enjoy them, there are two suites to choose from: both have a Japanese and Western style room as well as a private bath and veranda in what is a perfectly peaceful locale to soak up the scenery.
Address: 303-17 Fukiage Shimotsui, Okayama, 711-0926 Web: www.hailand.co.jp Tel: 086-479-9500 | Fax: 086-479-9549 WHERE TO STAY IN KURASHIKI
RYOKAN KURASHIKI he Bikan historical quarter is one of Kurashiki’s biggest draws, and a hotel that blends in effortlessly with its idyllic Tsurroundings is Ryokan Kurashiki, which is both steeped in tradition and dripping with luxury. Opened to the public in 1957, the hotel is made up of several buildings, the oldest being a staggering 305 years old. Downstairs there is a scenic garden and a large restaurant, which serves fine local cuisine. There are five rooms to choose from, each unique in design and atmosphere. Staying at the Ryokan Kurashiki is an experience in itself – as if you are digesting the local history just by staying there – and is certainly not simply a place to lay your head at night. Its dedication to tradition is astonishing, especially to international guests, as Ritsuko Nakamura of the hotel states, “we want their stay in a Ryokan to be special.”
Address: 4-1 Honmachi, Kurashiki city, Okayama, 710-0054 Web: www.ryokan-kurashiki.jp/top.php Tel: 086-422-0730 | Fax: 086-422-0990
yokan Misono boasts dozens of spacious rooms, all of which RYOKAN MISONO are slightly different from one another, with layout, size, Rfurniture and antiques altering from one room to the next. Guests can enjoy their meals in their rooms, or they can venture to the ground floor and eat in a private dining area. This flexibility is also apparent throughout as not only do guests get a private bath in their room, there is also a large public bath, which families can reserve for an hour at a time if they are unaccustomed to bathing with strangers. A perfect locale to relax, the hotel is adorned with a gallery’s worth of artwork and shelves of books, which guests are welcome to borrow during their stay. As if that wasn’t enough for the culture-vultures, Ryokan Misono has also been hosting regular live events for the past 27 years, attracting the best jazz, classical and world-music artists to the area.
Address: 3-4-1 Oimatsucyo Kurashiki City, Okayama Web: http://misono21.com/ Tel: 086-422-3618 | Fax: 086-421-0371
KURASHIKI KOKUSAI HOTEL ituated opposite one of Japan’s most famous and longest running art museums, The Ohara Museum of Art, it is no Ssurprise that the Kurashiki Kokusai Hotel is invested so heavily in traditional Japanese art and culture. The lobby is truly breathtaking, with a panoramic motif that attracts art lovers from around the globe. Rooms are varied, and you can select from Western style singles, doubles, twins and even triple rooms, as well as roomy Japanese style options. Whichever space you choose however, you will enjoy a spacious and relaxing environment, which will give you the chance to soak up your surroundings during the day, and recharge your batteries at night. Much like the rooms, the food blends traditional Japanese with western cuisine, so no matter what you are looking for, you will be sure to find it at the Kurashiki Kokusai Hotel.
Address: 1-1-44, Chuo, Kurashiki, Okayama, 710-0046 Web: www.kurashiki-kokusai-hotel.co.jp Tel: 086-422-5141 | Fax: 086-422-5192
MARCH 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com OKAYAMA | TRAVEL | 37
A WALK THROUGH HISTORY he city itself is like a museum,” says galleries displaying modern art, sculptures, ancient Masanori Nishimura of the Kurashiki pottery and stoneware, classic Japanese art and much City Hall – it’s clear the care in which the more. Founded in 1930, it is one of Japan’s oldest art city, in Okayama prefecture, is tended for museums and was reputedly the first establishment by locals is a real source of pride. to display western art on a permanent basis. The TWalking down Kurashiki’s atmospheric Hon Machi art is extremely varied and the walls see Monet rub Street, you can easily take the area’s beauty for shoulders with Picasso and Pollock. As there is so granted. A river, inhabited by small boats and a pair much to see, dedicating an entire afternoon to take in of elegant swans, splits the shopping arcade; on each the works is highly advisable. bank are rows of carefully restored and cared-for The town has a deep connection to baseball, in buildings, some of traditional Japanese design, others part due to the Muscat Stadium but also because influenced by western style. This pristine appearance of Senichi Hoshino, a former baseball player who is not a happy fluke or a natural occurrence, though: became a successful manager after his retirement. the local council and business owners have been A small museum celebrates perhaps the area’s working together to make Kurashiki a place of most famous son and its gift shop – as large as the perfection that brings history to life. exhibition itself – sells everything from Hanshin Tiger They have taken painstaking and expensive towels to cookies branded with a cartoon version of measures to maintain the area and not only have the Senichi’s face. For true die-hard fans there is also a buildings been carefully brought back to their former photo-booth that can create a picture of you standing glory, rules such as that which states structures are side by side with the great man himself. not permitted to be more than 13m high have been Besides the historical buildings and art museums, introduced. In a similar vein, things have been there is one aspect of Kurashiki that really captured restructured so that undoubtedly ugly overhead my attention, namely the care locals invest in their cables are nowhere to be seen. craft beer and sake. The local beers are numerous The amount of pride you feel from the locals and varied with a selection of ales and stouts on offer. in Kurashiki is astonishing, and it seems to be faith Many local businesses have their own sake brewed well placed – in 2012 the town won the Asia-wide especially for them, like their own miniature brand Metropolitan Best Scenery award. of which you can find almost any variety. You could It is not just the aesthetics that make the area stay a week and not get through all of the drinks so amazing; there is also a vast amount to do. First available but luckily the locals are friendly and quick on most people’s list would be a trip to the Ohara to recommend their favorite tipple, so take your time, Museum of Art, which is separated into several see what catches your eye and enjoy.
by Adam Miller
www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 38 | SPORTS | BASEBALL
ALEX RAMIREZ IN A LEAGUE OF HIS OWN Weekender touches base with Venezuelan baseball legend Alex Ramirez
lex Ramirez is arguably the was still in Elementary School, and has is also a fantastic cook so she will help out greatest baseball import to been there and seen it all during his time in the kitchen along with our Puerto Rican, have ever played in Japan and here. He helped the Yakult Swallows win Japanese and Brazilian chefs.” with just seven more hits, he’ll the Japan Series in his first year and became There is of course excellent Pernil Pork become the first foreigner to an immediate hero to the supporters, who (a Puerto Rican classic, seasoned and spiced Areach the 2000-hit milestone. helped him feel at home right away. and roasted for around four hours) and The 38 year-old slugger – affectionately “Even with the language difficulties, the idea behind many items on the menu, known as ‘Rami-chan’ – won his first Central they made me feel part of the team,” he says. as well as the decor, is to bring a slice of League MVP Award in 2008, batting with a “It has been the same at all the teams I have the sunny Caribbean nation to Japan – the .319 average and retained that title a year played for here ... So many people in this cocktails help with that, too. later with the league’s highest country have helped me become There is the expected (and popular, average, scoring at .322. He the player I am today and that we’re told) baseball memorabilia in the has hit 40 or more home is one of the major reasons basement from Rami-chan’s own collection, runs on three occasions I give why I have stayed in Japan with the spoils of his career on full show, but and has finished top of for so long. I’ve had offers this is not simply a sports bar. The place has the RBI (Runs Batted God all the from Major league sides, something of a romantic feel, too, and an In) leaderboard four but I politely declined. impressive VIP room for the special guests times. I feel like I belong here and occasions that come often. Ramirez is more glory for all I have and this is where I want With a new restaurant, numerous concerned, though, to retire.” trophies and the money that follows them, about helping his team accomplished in After just a short time Ramirez could be forgiven for taking it easy than earning individual in his company it is in his final couple of years as a player. That, honours. Having won the my career easy to see the infectious though, is not his style. He has prepared as Japan Series with both the personality that has always vigorously for this season as he did for the Tokyo Yakult Swallows and helped make him a firm fans’ previous 12 as he tries to help turn the Yomiuri Giants he now hopes to favourite. He will always be the DeNA Baystars into a genuine repeat the feat with the Yokohama DeNA gentle giant from Venezuela, but feels force in the league. Looking Baystars. He is in bullish mood for the coming completely at home in Japan. So much so, he at recent tables it seems like season, despite the team’s poor record over has decided to open a restaurant in trendy an impossible task, but the last few years. Nishi-Azabu, and it’s at Ramichan CAFÉ we listening to Rami-chan “I strongly believe we have the potential are chatting. speak, it doesn’t sounds to be an A-class team with a chance of “It is the first Puerto Rican eatery in too far-fetched. winning the title. We have added some great Japan and I am so excited about it. players to the roster like Tony Blanco who My wife (who is Puerto Rican) has already won a home run title and I think and I have always wanted to he can help protect the line-up.” own a restaurant, so it is a “(Hitoshi) Tamura has come back and dream come true for us. That I believe he will be a very important player said I can’t take any of the this year, while two new pitchers have come credit for how it looks,” he – (Jorge) Sosa and (Enyelbert) Soto – both of laughs, “She has better taste whom already have proved they can play in than me so I let her choose Japan. When you add them to some of the everything.” exciting young players we’ve already got, “I never imagined it would like (Yoshitomo) Tsutsugoh, who is going to look so beautiful. She, with be one of the best players in the league, and my son, Alex Jr., has created a (Sho) Aranami, I genuinely believe we have a tropical style atmosphere with a chance of doing well this year.” waterfall, a sky ceiling and old Rami-chan’s experience will be vital in Puerto Rican houses painted helping the youngsters develop over the next on the wall. She has done an couple of years. The Caracas-born star made amazing job, but she is not his debut in Japan in 2001, when Tsutsugoh just skilled in design, she
RAMI-CHAN: A CAREER IN NUMBERS
or more home runs times Central League years in a row that 40 scored in three 02 Most Valuable Player 08 Rami-chan finished different NPB seasons. award (2008-2009) the season with an RBI over 100
Photograph Courtesy of Yokohama DeNA Baystars EXPAT LIFE | WEEKENDER | 39
www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 40 | FACES & PLACES | PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES
Andy Serkis, who plays Golum in the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit movies, is flanked by Charo Ireton and her husband, Bill, of Warner Bros. Japan PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES Tokyo’s Longest Running Society Page, with Bill Hersey
o much has been happening in this great city of ours since When Arnold Schwarzenegger was here to promote Batman and my last column I hardly know where to start. I’ve finally Robin, I flew to Kyushu with him, director Joel Schumacher, Arnold’s decided to go back a few weeks to when by accident I turned small group of assistants and a group of local media people. After take- on AXN channel and really got involved in watching the off we were brought a big Austrian style birthday cake and I really HollywoodS Press’s 70th Golden Globe Awards. This made me realize enjoyed joining “Mr. Freeze” (his character in the film) to celebrate his even more how lucky I am, thanks to many friends, for how many birthday high in the sky over Japan. In Kyushu we went to watch the celebs, superstars, royalty and really good people I’ve had the pleasure Yomiuri Giants practice. One of the players – Sadaharu Oh – came up of meeting and getting to know over the years. to our box, met the celebs and gave Arnold and Joel a ball to throw-in First there was Ben Affleck. I spent considerable time with this to start the practice session. This gave Arnold the chance to use one great guy whenever he visited Tokyo. On one of his visits I had a big of his favorite expressions: “Joel, don’t throw it like a girlie boy.” Joel, bonus – Aerosmith’s Steve Tyler’s actress daughter, Liv, who’s not only secure in his success, couldn’t care less and did things his own way. beautiful and talented but also fun and really nice. She partied with us He, by the way, will head the Jury at the Okinawa International Film every night she and Ben were here on a promotional visit. Festival, this year from March 23 to 31. Jodie Foster was a special guest at the Globes. She looked Other Golden Club Nominees I’ve hung out with include one of my wonderful and I had a hard time believing she’s 50. Her speech on her favorite actresses, British superstar Helen Mirren, who’s really fun, life and love of her work was really moving. I’ve spent a lot of time Joaquin Phoenix and the truly cool Denzel Washington, who’s been in with her and even got to introduce her to many Tokyoites at a party in Japan recently to promote “Flight” for Paramount. her honor at the US Embassy. She’s so intelligent and has a great sense I could go on and on, but time to move off memory lane onto our of humor. city’s busy social scene. By the way, I am working on a book about George Clooney’s fun as well. I was in Osaka with him and a few people I’ve met as there’s so much to say, and if all goes as planned I’ll of his friends on an Oceans’ film campaign. We were in a van when get it out this year. we got stuck in traffic so he started singing “The Sun Will Come out There have been lots of 15th Anniversary events the last few Tomorrow” from the musical “Annie”. I hummed the tune a bit, and he months for some reason. Let’s start at the beautiful Meguro Gajoen said “let’s sing it together.” We did, and his entourage applauded and venue where Lady Ratna Sari Dewi Sukarno hosted her magnificent laughed. George, by the way, has a great voice as did his aunt, popular 15th Grand Imperial Charity Banquet. Over 500 people attended the vocalist Rosemary “This Old House” Clooney. NPO, Earth Aid Society’s gala evening and the night was first class
MARCH 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 41
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Japan Through Diplomats’ Eyes photo contest At Dewi Sukarno’s gala charity banquet 1. Wife of EU’s amb., Kaoru Schweisgut, and Lilo Maruyama 2. Mori 8. Pakistani amb. Noor Jadmani, Haitian amb. Judith Exavier, Bahrain amb. Arts’ Yoshiko Mori, Colombian amb. Patricia Cardenas and Minister for Hassan, Dewi and Afghani amb. Dr. Bashir Mohabbat with his wife Yasuko and Protocol Sumio Kusaka 3. Indonesian entrant, Ranayanti Yanvariadi with their daughter Mina 9. Dewi and enka singer, superstar Hiroshi Itsuki her husband 4. Canon cameras’ executive officer, Kazuhiko Noguchi. 5. 10. Kyoko Spector with APA hotel group’s CEO Toshio and his wife, the Argentine amb. Raul Dejean, his wife Teresa, BMW executive Sven Straub, company’s COO, Fumiko Motoya 11. Singer Dennis Joji, Ukrainian model Latvian amb. Peteris Vaivars, the Grand Hyatt’s GM, Christophe Lorvo, and Elizabeth and dancer Huang Shi 12. Japan’s most famous sex-change, Kaoru Bahrain amb. Khalil Hassan 6. Grand Prize winner, Latvian amb. Peteris Maki 13. The gorgeous and very charitable Mme Shinko Vaivars, Prince Takamado Memorial Prize winner, Asta Slavinskaite, Princess Takamado and amb. Cardenas 7. Zimbabwe amb. Harold Stuart Comberbach, with Serbian amb. Bojana Adamovic Dragovic.
www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 42 | SOCIETY | PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES
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At the Koshino/Taos drum group spectacular show and Tunisian amb. Elyes Kasri 7. Hala al Otaibi, her mother Jamilah and Lilo Maruyama 8. 1. Coca Cola execs Arseny Chuk Besher and Tatsuya Hashizumi 2. Yoriyuki Suzuki (Junko International School of the Sacred Heart head, Yvonne Hayes, Swedish minister Ulf Sormark, Koshino’s son) with TBS’s Kishi, Junko, Miss International 2012, Ikumi Yoshimatsu, and his wife Julie and Sacred Heart teacher Una O’Neill 9. Former Ritz Carlton GM Iwan Dietschi, business tycoon Yasuyuki Nambu 3. Photographer Hiroyuki Suzuki (Junko’s husband), US Fumiko Tottori, Greek amb. Nikolaos Tsamados and his wife Yasmine. minister/consular Mark J Davidson, his wife Kuniko and their daughters Akari and In and Around Town Sumika 4. Prominent French banker Christophe Billard (of Societe Générale), Ikumi and 10. Srimathi Karannagoda wife Sri Lankan amb., Philippines amb. Manuel Lopez and Laurence Camma. his wife Maria Teresa at the Lopez’ holiday party. 11. Reebok Japan Fitness and Training Omani national day reception Manager Shiho Ishige, Reebok Japan Brand President Dieter Habert, BodyPlus International 5. Hisanaga Shimiazu, Maali Siam (Palestine), Takako Shimazu and the hostess, Abeer al President David Halton and Reebok CrossFit Ambassador and former K-1 fighter, Nicholas Muslahi 6. Kuwaiti amb. Abdul Rahman al Otaibi, Omani amb. Mohammed al Muslahi Pettas. 12. Ernesto de Lima with his sons Stefano and Leonardo at the Franciscan Chapel.
MARCH 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 43 all the way. Major supporters included Dupont Japan K.K., Garuda her on a few things including Halloween parties for handicapped Indonesia, Moët Hennessy and Lladro Japan. Proceeds went to the kids and she really goes all out to make her events for others fun and Japan Red Cross Society and the Association for Aid and Relief Japan. special. The multi-course dinner was excellent. Dewi’s so talented in so many ways and her show was entertainment at its best. The opening Thanks for the memories… and God bless was by a tall, very striking young actor – Naomichi Hanazono – who Its never easy losing relatives and friends we really care for and really could really sing, dance and play the shamisen. This was followed miss. Seems like there are so many who have left us these last few by a dynamic performance of enka hits as well as good imitations months. in English of Frank Sinatra, Tony Bennett and a few other legendary We lost a lady that I and so many loved when Steven Haynes’ American singers by Hiroshi Itsuki. Clear Tone’s Orchestra, as well as wonderful mom Clara passed away over the holidays while visiting MCs Greg Irwin and Noriko Kawachi, did a great job, as did Bahrain here from San Francisco. She was so cool, so chic, so intelligent, so Ambassador Khalid Hassan in his opening speech. much fun and so loving, just like my mom and grandmother were back One of the highlights of the evening for me was meeting the in Perrysburg, Ohio. Steve was so lucky to have Clara and his late, great late and great singer/actor Kyu Sakamoto’s wife Yukiko Kashiwagi. I father Oliver as loving parents and they were lucky as well to have such first met Kyu when I was on his TV show with English actress Olivia a loving devoted and giving son. Hussey. He, as many of you know, died quite young in a plane crash. Sorry to hear about his wife Keiko and two daughters Ute and My brother Chris (God bless his soul) got a CD of Kyu’s hit “Ue o Muite Madelene’s losing Gerd Knapper recently. Gerd, who came from Aruko” when he was doing a concert tour here in Japan. Unlike me, Germany many years ago, gained international fame as a creative Chris was really talented. Dewi’s charity event was really special, ceramics artist. He lived with his family in the countryside here and I perfect for the occasion. had the opportunity to see some of his work at an exhibition Audi did at their Meiji-Dori showroom a few years ago. Diplomats’ Photo Exhibition a big success It’s been a long time since I last saw Hal Drake, the legendary It was the 15th year as well for the annual Japan Through Diplomatic Pacific Stars and Stripes journalist. I do remember what a funman Eyes photo contest and exhibition. This year’s event was subtitled he was, calling everyone “pops” and always knowing the latest jokes “Hope and Renewal” and the venue, the Roppongi Hills Cafe Space, was from the US. Hal retired in the late 90s and he and his wife moved to wall to wall with people. VIPs there included HiH Princess Takamado, the Gold Coast in Australia, where he continued to write. Hal passed who’s honorary president, Colombian ambassador Patricia Cardenas, away in January. He’s survived by Koz, his wife of 37 years, and several the chairperson, and Diet member Nobutaka Machimura, head of the children from former marriages. jury. The opening program included significant speeches by two of I and the world have recently lost some really good Japanese the major sponsors, Canon inc.’s executive officer Kazuhiko Noguchi friends as well. These included business tycoon Reijiro Hattori, the and BMW executive Sven Straub. It was nice seeing long time friend, President of Seiko. I often ran into Reijiro in Bangkok – he was very Latvian ambassador Peteris Vaivars, win the grand prize and a young international and I really enjoyed the Thai meals we shared. Reijiro lady from Lithuania, Asta Slavinskaite, take the Prince Takamado is survived by his wife Etsuko, a lady who’s very involved in many Memorial Prize. My congratulations to each and every one of the worthwhile charities. I was also sad over the loss of one of Japan’s best- entries for the thought, time and effort they put into making their known film directors, Nagisa Oshima. He was an interesting man who photo creations interesting and original. gained international fame through controversial films like “Woman of the Dunes” and “Merry Christmas Mr. Lawrence.” Another great Glittering Oman National Day celebration director, Akira Kurosawa, first introduced me to Nagisa and I’ll always Oman is one of the few Arab countries I haven’t had the opportunity remember that. to visit but good friends, and two of the world’s top travelers, Mitsuo I also remember Tokyo’s governor Suzuki introducing me to New and Lilo Maruyama, tell me it’s really a magical destination in every York’s great mayor, Ed Koch, who passed away in his favorite city way. I have had the privilege of getting to know the country’s top recently. When Ed was in Tokyo as a guest of governor Suzuki I had fun representatives, ambassador Mohammed al-Muslahi, his wife Abeer trying to teach him how to use chopsticks at the mayor’s welcome party. and their special children. I remember him saying, “The hell with it, I’m using my fingers.” Mohammed is really good at his work and has a warm, I had hoped to put one or two lovely and meaningful poems laid back sense of humour. Abeer is full of energy, a in the column but have run out of space by now so I’ll use great planner and organizer and is always involved in them next time. Both came from dear friends when I lost worthwhile projects that help others. I’ve worked with my beloved brother and believe me they did and still do mean a lot to me.
Bill, soccer star Oguro, rocker Koji Tamaki and Maiko and Mireii at the New Lex club Cast party for the musical Thriller at the pop star Miyave at the New Lex Roppongi Gallery Club
www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 44 | WEEKENDER | EXPAT LIFE
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www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 MOVIES Coming to a cinema near you in MARCH
MAR 1 DJANGO UNCHAINED uentin Tarantino has been a director to watch ever since his explosive feature- Qlength debut, Reservoir Dogs, way back in 1992. He has been criticised in recent years for making films less relevant than they once were and for his unabashed, over-the- top borrowing of the kitsch and the retro from cinema’s past. Inglorious Basterds was seen as something of a return to form in 2009 – its eight Academy Award nominations going some way to prove that point. This film is also up for the Best Picture award and that’s not the only similarity it shares with its predecessor: it takes a historical setting, this time the Old West as opposed to the second world war, and places onto it Tarantino’s trademark dialogue and ultra-violence. The story concerns Django (Jamie Foxx), a slave who, in exchange for his freedom and the chance to track down his wife and the man who now owns her, Leonardo DiCaprio’s villainous plantation owner, Calvin Candie, enters into a deal with Christopher Waltz’s bounty hunter, Dr. King Schultz. The film has received praise but also criticism centering around it’s treatment of the difficult subject of slavery. Heavy use of racially charged language, which has been defended as ‘of its time’ can to modern ears be difficult to stomach.
MAR 22 FLIGHT MAR 9 enzel Washington’s latest is the story of an airline pilot, Whip DWhitaker, who is hailed as a hero after he averts disaster by miraculously landing his plane under extreme circumstances, saving most of the people on board. In the aftermath of the landing questions arise over Whip’s character and what really happened aboard the THE MASTER catastrophe-stricken flight. Director Robert Amour Zemeckis, best known for the Back To The eleased at last year’s Venice film irector and screenwriter Michael Future trilogy and Forrest Gump, makes festival, in September, at which it Haneke’s films can often be a difficult his return to live action filmmaking after a won the Best Picture award, the film – watch; the director’s attempts to R few years working on animated features. D inspired by the life and times of controversial highlight social failings can often be harsh and This tense drama offers an engrossing science-fiction writer and founder of confrontational but nevertheless Haneke is one character study carried along by a riveting Scientology, L. Ron Hubbard – proved hugely of the best directors in the world right now at central performance from Washington, who popular with critics. Star Joaquin Phoenix was producing thought-provoking, intelligent cinema. is at his best. last seen playing himself in mockumentary Amour is the story of Georges and Ann, an I’m Still Here, claiming to have given up MAR 1 elderly couple whose relationship is tested when acting for a rap career, but thankfully he has Ann suffers a stroke, leaving half of her body done no such thing and dazzles with a return paralysed. The film has been universally praised to form. He plays Freddie Quell, struggling and it has earned nominations and awards at to cope with a return to civilian life after the film festivals all over the world, including the second world war. When Quell meets the Palme d’or at Cannes. Emmanuelle Riva, who charismatic Lancaster Dodd (Philip Seymour plays Ann, has picked up a nomination for Hoffman), the leader of a new religion, he is Best Actress at this year’s Oscars; at 85 she is soon accepted into the fold and travels with the oldest person to have done so. Jean-Louis the man to spread the word. Trintignant and Isabelle Huppert also star.
MARCH 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com SHOWING THIS MONTH | SCREEN | 47 MAR 15
> SCREENINGS Selected Cinemas
Django Unchained: TOHO Cinemas (Roppongi, Odaiba) Amour: Human Trust Cinema, Shibuya Flight: TOHO Cinemas (Roppongi, Yurakucho/Hibiya, Shibuya) The Master: Human Trust Cinema, Shibuya Cloud Atlas: TOHO Cinemas (Roppongi, Odaiba) Oz: The Great and the Powerful: TOHO Cinemas (Roppongi, Cloud Atlas Odaiba) loud Atlas is the latest work from Lana and Andy Wachowski, who exploded onto the scene and stunned the world with CThe Matrix in 1999 and then thoroughly disappointed with the overblown sequels that followed. This time around they have teamed up with German director Tom Tykwer, who made his name > DVD/BLU-RAY This Month’s Releases with the excellent Run, Lola, Run, to make an ambitious adaptation of a complicated novel by David Mitchell. Containing separate stories MAR 2 Way Back taking place in several different time periods, including the Pacific Ed Harris, Colin Farrell and co play a bunch of of the 19th century, the present, neo-Seoul (not unlike parts of Tokyo Siberian gulag escapees who walk 4,000 miles to now!) and a post-apocolyptic future, the film aims to show how lives their freedom in India in a tale producers say was are connected and actions can ripple through time. Parts in each of the “inspired by real events”. segments are played by the same actors so Tom Hanks, Halle Berry, MAR 2 The Watch Jim Broadbent, Ben Whishaw and Hugh Grant amongst others make If Ben Stiller, Vince Vaughn, Jonah Hill and Richard a variety of appearances in many different guises. While not all the Ayoade lived down your street, you’d expect character changes are entirely successful this is a bold work that is Neighborhood Watch meetings to be eventful, but sure to divide opinion so make sure to check it out for yourself. would you expect alien invasions on the agenda?
MAR 2 The Expendables 2 This sequel to The Expendables is about as MAR 8 predictably titled as it is adequate at providing what action fans might want out of a Sly Stallone- led shoot-up of a movie.
MAR 2 Mirror Mirror This Snow White inspired tale of evil queens, stolen kingdoms and an exiled princess has got Julia Roberts in it, which is about all that needs to be said.
MAR 2 Main Street Colin Firth moves to North Carolina and causes a bit of a stir in the tight-knit community he finds in need of a bit of help. Even Orlando Bloom didn’t get theatergoers too excited, but there he is.
MAR 2 Take This Waltz Oz: The Great and Powerful Michelle Williams is the artist across the road he Wizard of Oz is cinema at its finest. It contains some of that turns her neighbour’s head – and returns the most memorable characters, scenes and songs ever laid the affection. Problem is, she’s married to Tdown on celluloid, not to mention its stunning use of glorious Seth Rogan. technicolor. There’s only been one unofficial sequel to the timeless MAR 6 The Magic of Belle Isle 1939 classic, 1985’s wonderful and slightly terrifying Return to Oz, Morgan Freeman plays Monte Wildhorn, a a very different and much darker film than its predecessor. Oz: The famous Western novelist whose struggle with Great and Powerful sees Disney hoping to mimic the box office success alcoholism has sapped his passion for writing – it had with Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland; again this is this a but then he moves to Belle Isle… colourful and CG laden take on a classic children’s adventure. Set Argo before the events of the original movie, we follow circus magician MAR 13 Based on a true story, Argo’s seven Academy Oscar Diggs (James Franco) as he is whisked away to the magical land Award nominations – and its Best Picture gong of Oz, where his chances at fame and fortune are tested by an array of – tell us it is the Iran-based hostage thriller problems, including three witches played by Rachel Weisz, Mila Kunis starring Ben Affleck to rent this month. and Michelle Williams. The (Tobey Maguire-era) Spider-man trilogy’s Sam Raimi is at the helm of an epic fantasy adventure that should prove a hit with kids and fans of epic, imaginative fantasy alike. This month’s movie previews were written by Christopher O’Keeffe. For more movie news and reviews visit www.tokyoweekender.com
www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 AGENDA 1
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1 MAR 27 2 Mar 6-25 3 Mar 4-7 4 MAR 31 Grimes Yasushi Sugiyama Jimmy Cliff Punkspring Canadian Claire Nihonga style Billboard hosts eight Weezer (pictured) Boucher is back in Japan watercolours from the shows over four nights headline along with NOFX and plays at as intimate a venue as Tokyo artist who died in 1993 grace of ska and reggae from from the and Simple Plan. This promises to you’re ever likely to see her again. Takashimaya’s event space. 64-year-old Jamaican legend. be loud with a capital L. Time: 18:00 (doors) | Tickets: ¥5,500 (adv) Time: 22:30 - late | Tickets: Free! Time: XXXX | Tickets: ¥9,500-¥11,500 Time: 11:00 (doors) | Tickets: ¥8,900(adv) Venue: Club Quattro, Shibuya Venue: Nihonbashi Takashimaya Venue: Billboard Live Venue: Makuhari Messe More info: www.club-quattro.com More info: www.tokyoweekender.com More info: www.billboard-live.com More: www.punkspring.com
5 Mar 19 6 MAR 30 7 Mar 23-24 8 MAR 13 Rufus Wainwright Springroove Roppongi Art Night How to Dress Well Singer with pedigree Ne-Yo and dancehall The yearly event brings Tom Krell uses his voice to brings his tones to the group T.O.K. better not us in 2013 a night (and weave incredible sounds impressive Shibuya Public Hall stay too late, they’ll not want to get most of the next day) devoted around his blend of experimental (Formerly the CC Lemon Hall). mixed up with the following day’s to the message: Witness today’s R&B and pop vibes. Time: 18:30 (doors) | Tickets: ¥7,500 Punkspring crowd... transformation into tomorrow. Time: 18:30 (doors) | Tickets: ¥4,500 Venue: Shibuya Public Hall Time: 13:00 (doors) | Tickets: ¥10,500 Time: 10:00 (Sat) - 18:00 (Sun) Venue: O-Nest, Shibuya More: www.shibuko.com/english Venue: Makuhari Messe Tickets: ¥5,500 | Venue: Various venues More info: www.tokyoindie.com More: www.springroove.com/13/ More: www.roppongiartnight.com/en/
MARCH 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH | AGENDA | 49 MARCH
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Angus Fillet Juicy tenderloin filet chargrilled over an open flame and topped with a choice of Finadene or Demi-glace sauce. Served with mashed potatoes and fresh 11 seasonal mixed veggies.
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Chicken Cobb Salad 9 MAR 18 10 APR 6-7 Crispy chicken with fresh mixed greens, Rita Ora Sonar Sound Tokyo chopped hardboiled It isn’t just the support of Elite electronic eggs, tomatoes, strips her label boss (Jay-Z) that “advanced music” of seasoned ham and has made her a smash in Europe – festival from Barcelona heads east shredded red cheddar but can the Pristina born Brit crack again for another Tokyo edition, with and steppen cheese. the Asian market? Boys Noize (pictured) and more. Tossed in your choice of Time: 18:00 (doors) | Tickets: ¥5,500 Time: 18:30 21:00-late (Sat) 14:00-22:00 (Sun) housemade dressing. Venue: Duo Music Exchange, Shibuya Tickets: ¥7,750 adv, (2 days ¥14,500) More info: www.creativeman.co.jp Venue: Studio Coast | Info: www.sonarsound.jp
11 APR 5 12 MAR 2-17 PiL Artscape Post-punk from John This annual exhibition Lydon and the latest of student artwork – incarnation of his Public Image Ltd, with 500 works from students of who most recently appeared here at over 50 different nationalities is in its Summer Sonic in 2011. 30th year. Tickets: ¥7,500 - ¥8,500 | Time: 18:30 (doors) Time: See website Tickets: Free! Venue: Shibuya AX Venue: Children’s Castle, Aoyama Info: www.creativeman.co.jp More: artscapekanto.com
www.tokyoweekender.com MARCH 2013 BACK IN THE DAY: MARCH 1988 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1988! You can read the rest of this issue (No.10, 1988) and view Weekender’s 42 year archive online. www.tokyoweekender.com/ weekender-archives/