In the Driver's Seat

{ realdiscoveries somm stories} } A view of the Alloro Vineyard property in Oregon. “the Driver’sIN THE In his wheelhouse: Alloro Vineyard proprietor David Nemarnik founded his property in the Chehalem Mountains AVA in 1999. The vineyards have been dry-farmed sinceSeat 2001. THE WILLAMETTE PHOTOS: COURTESY OF ALLORO VINEYARD ALLORO OF COURTESY PHOTOS: VALLEY CARVES A SPECIAL PLACE IN ITS DIVERSE TERROIR FOR PINOT NOIR BY MERIDITH MAY 106 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2019 Somm Journal Oct_Nov_102-128_KNv3.indd 106 9/25/19 5:40 PM Alloro Vineyard CHEHALEM MOUNTAINS AVA Alloro Vineyard’s110-acre property (with 34 under vine) is located in Sherwood within the Chehalem Mountains AVA. Sustainably farmed, it’s tended by demand for Oregon wine is un- proprietor David Nemarnik, who precedented,” said Tom Danowski, also grows figs, chestnuts, olives, CEO of the Oregon Winegrowers and an assortment of vegetables PHOTO COURTESY OF ALLORO VINEYARD ALLORO OF COURTESY PHOTO Association, in a recent article in while raising Hereford cattle and “thethe Yamhill Valley News-Register. sheep. That’s good news for a state that In this region, the well-draining, boasts 769 wineries and over 1,000 10-foot-deep silty loam called Lau- vineyards; according to the article, relwood soil reigns—in fact, Alloro Oregon’s wine industry “generated is Italian for “laurel,” an evergreen $5.6 billion in statewide economic plant that symbolizes immortality impact in 2017, an increase of 67% and peace. The roads of the estate over the last three years.” are lined with laurel as well as But it’s the Willamette Valley in cypress trees, leading to a breath- particular that is the focal point for taking Mediterranean-style villa. world-class Pinot Noir and high- Nemarnik walks his property ev- toned, constantly evolving Chardon- ery day, looking after his Pinot Noir nay. Over two-thirds of Oregon’s and Chardonnay vines. “I know the vineyard acres are in this fertile idiosyncrasies of each block,” he valley, and the state’s high standards told The SOMM Journal. “But the for wine production make this Tom Fitzpatrick is the winemaker for Alloro Vineyard. vintages are all varying enough that 100-mile-long-by-60-mile-wide He has been making wine in Oregon since 2007 and it’s an active process of decision growing region worthy of constant has been at this estate for the past ten years. making on pruning and picking.” rediscovery. The Willamette Valley is home Alloro Vineyard 2017 Chardonnay, Chehalem Mountains ($30) Edgy with flinty min- to 550 wineries within its eight erality; savory tones light up the palate, along with lemon blossom and crisp Asian pear. sub-AVAs: Chehalem Mountains, Bright acidity is sunshine in the glass. This vineyard’s unique east-west exposure makes for Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity Hills, a later harvest. 94 McMinnville, Ribbon Ridge, Yamhill- Carlton, Willamette Valley, and new Alloro Vineyard 2016 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains ($40) The estate’s flagship wine, coastal AVA Van Duzer. The TTB is it’s expressive and spicy with notes of cedar and cranberry. A glorious satin texture washes now exploring approval of a ninth across the palate, where juicy red fruit combines with salted meats and sweet tobacco. 93 sub-AVA, Laurelwood, nestled inside the Chehalem Mountains. Alloro Vineyard 2016 Riservata Pinot VINEYARD ALLORO OF COURTESY PHOTO On a recent trip to the Wil- Noir, Chehalem Mountains ($50) This lamette, I visited just a handful of has all the elements of the estate Pinot but wineries, specifically choosing prop- is more complex, with deeper shadows erties that I had never been to nor and a core of chocolate. The mouthfeel is covered in our publication before memorable. Winemaker Tom Fitzpatrick and whose wines I had not tasted. focuses on weight and fullness for the All produce 5,000 cases or a bit palate: “I pull more new oak for the darker less, and all are looking to expand flavors,” he told me. The wood is all French, The Alloro Vineyard 2016 Riservata. their national distribution. Here are and he works with various coopers to the four that made a particularly obtain different levels of grain tightness— lasting impression. from low to considerably high. 95 { SOMMjournal.com } 107 Somm Journal Oct_Nov_102-128_KNv3.indd 107 9/25/19 5:40 PM PHOTO COURTESY OF LENNÉ ESTATE COURTESY PHOTO Lenné Estate owner Steve Lutz. Lenné Estate YAMHILL-CARLTON AVA In naming his winery after his father-in-law, Lenny, owner Steve Lutz thought that it would be a marketing coup to add a French twist—hence Lenné. He also played on le nez, which means “the nose” in French, for his label graph- Le Cadeau ics. (Let the record show that we got the pun—and we appreciated it.) Vineyard The south-facing hillsides of his 20.9-acre vineyard, which sits at an elevation of 420–575 feet, are home to dry- CHEHALEM MOUNTAINS AVA farmed fruit. “These are the poorest soils in the Yamhill- Carlton AVA,” noted Lutz, who planted his first vines on “I’m a clone junkie,” admitted Tom Mortimer, proprietor of Le the site in 2001. “The nutrient-poor, sedimentary Peavine Cadeau Vineyard. Although all of our winery visits centered soil limits vine vigor and forces the plants to struggle. Thou- on the subject of clones, Mortimer expounded on the topic; sands have died, but the carnage was worth it.” while we were listening closely to his discussion of heritage clones versus Pommard versus 115, et cetera, what really Lenné 2017 Chardonnay, Yamhill-Carlton ($48) Aged opened our eyes at Le Cadeau were the rocks. in one-year-old puncheons, this lighthearted, floral white “I call them cobbles,” Mortimer noted, showing their is crystal clear and stunning in its purity. White-peppered variation from softball-, football-, and soccer ball–sized basalt peach and pear lead to white flowers, and stones to the occasional cluster of “bricks.” He cut down a tangerine has angel wings on the mid-palate. virtual forest of uncultivated land in the late 1990s with the “Drew Voit is an adept winemaker. I am adept help of a Caterpillar tractor—which sported 15-inch tooth farmer,” Lutz explained. 94 blades to dig through the never-ending array of stones and rocks—before planting his Parrett Mountain vineyard. Volcanic Lenné 2016 Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton red clay and a light topsoil are also identified on his contigu- ($40) Pillow-light in weight, graceful, and ous 28-acre site (16 acres of which are planted). Tom Mortimer of Le Cadeau. spiced with cinnamon and tobacco leaf. As President of the Chehalem Mountains Winegrowers, Coffee and cranberry make delicious Mortimer observed that “an AVA is a multigenerational direc- partners. Candied lavender plays a role tion. As climate change . comes into play, AVAs also mature as mocha finishes with a cedar bow. 93 on their platform to gain recognition. The 100-square-mile Chehalem Mountains AVA’s diverse topography shows Pinot Lenné 2016 Jill’s 115 Pinot Noir, Noir in a wide variety of expressions.” Yamhill-Carlton ($58) A single-clone To showcase that stylistic range, Mortimer has two wine- red with a mocha nose and fine-grained makers and a consultant overseeing his stable of rock-grown tannins. High acid and white pepper add Pinot Noirs. balance to this deep, dark, ageworthy Pinot Noir. 94 108 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2019 Somm Journal Oct_Nov_102-128_KNv3.indd 108 9/25/19 5:41 PM Youngberg Hill McMINNVILLE AVA PHOTO COURTESY OF YOUNGBERG HILL YOUNGBERG OF COURTESY PHOTO A coastal breeze was cooling down the 85-degree afternoon in mid-August when I visited Youngberg Hill to find proprietor Wayne Bailey standing on the veranda of his popular inn, which overlooks his 50-acre estate. There, 20 acres of sustainably farmed vineyards cover a steep mountain slope, while Highland cattle line the pastures. PHOTO COURTESY OF LE CADEAU VINEYARD OF LE CADEAU COURTESY PHOTO The McMinnville AVA is home to the Willamette Valley’s westernmost vineyards, which experience a maritime influ- ence. The Bailey family’s vineyard blocks produce four distinct Pinot Noirs as well as Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. Taking a holistic approach to farming, the estate has been converted Youngberg Hill founder to Biodynamic viticulture, which Bailey says promotes health- Wayne Bailey. ier vines and high-quality fruit. The Iowa native even went so far as to say that he hopes that this “responsible” grape growing could stave off some of the phylloxera that has threatened his oldest and most prized vines. Though south-facing vines have been the norm throughout the Willamette Val- ley, Bailey added that, because of climate change, east is becoming the new south. “Twenty years ago, if the vines were sloped too much to the east, you’d have a tough Microclimates and variably time ripening fruit,” he explained. “Now, summers are so warm, they need protection shaped “cobbles” define from the hot afternoon sun. But I still hope we have a couple of cool years left.” Le Cadeau Le Cadeau’s property. Vineyard Youngberg Hill 2016 Aspen Block Char- Le Cadeau Vineyard 2017 Rocheaux Youngberg Hill 2015 Jordan donnay, McMinnville ($40) Produced with CHEHALEM MOUNTAINS AVA Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Pinot Noir, McMinnville ($50) four cool-climate clones, with malolactic ($50) From winemaker Jim Sander, it Sourced from a block named fermentation unfolding in 50% single-use offers up a woodsy nose of tree sap, for Bailey’s eldest daughter that and 50% neutral oak barrels. This bone-dry coriander, raspberry, and cherry. 90 sits 800 feet high on volcanic white delivers crisp flavors of green apple rock, where the grapes see a and lemon-lime.

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