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Fabric Preparation: the Key to Consistent Dyeing and Finishing

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Fabric Preparation: the Key to Consistent Dyeing and Finishing PREPARATI ON PREPARINGFIBERS, YARNS, OR FABRICS FOR THE DYEING AND FINISHING PROCESSES. TYPICAL ?REPARATION PROCESSES 4 - SCOURING - BLEACHING - - MERCERIZATION ( COTTON 1 I 1 1 IMPURITIES IN TEXTILE f IBERS MECHANICALLY CI EANED COTTON @-\ 5 p""" \\1 PROTEINS 1.3% MINERAL MATTER 1.2% PECTINS 0.9% AND 0.6X , b fw WAXES OILS _. P I GMENTS RAW WOOL 0.4VL)L DIRT 26% SUI NT 28% FATS 12% MINERALS 1% PIGMENTS MAN-MADES PROCESSING AIDS (CONING AND KNITTING OILS) OILY AND PARTICULATE MATTER FROM PROCESSING DISCOLORATION FROM PROCESSING 2 SINGEING BURNING OFF OF THE SHORT FIBER ENDS ON THE SURFACE OF FABRICS. WHY? c DES I2 I N6 +Or 1. SIZE ACTS AS DYE AND FINISH RESIST 2. SIZE MAY ABSORB DYE AND/OR FINISH 3. SIZE STIFFENS FABRIC HANDLE REMOVAL OF IMPURITIES OTHER THAN PIGMENTS AND MOTES FROM . TEXTILE FIBERS WAXES WATER INSOLUBLE DIRT /J WHY? IMPROVEABSORBANCE OF WATER AND CHEMICAL SOLUTIONS so THAT DYES AND CHEMICALS ARE ABSORBED UNIFORMLY BY FIBERS. BLFACH I NG DESTRUCTION OF COLOR IMPURITIES IN TEXTILE FIBERS WHY? PROVIDE GOOD BASE WHITE FOR DYEING NOT ALWAYS NECESSARY 1. MAN-MADE FIBERS USUALLY HAVE REQUIRED WHITENESS 2. DARK SHADES 3. OTHER SHADES MAY ONLY REQUIRE A PARTIAL BLEACH MFRCERIZATI ON I TREATMENT OF COTTON YARNS OR FABRICS UNDER TENSION WITH STRONG WHY? IMPROVE DYEABILITY, STRENGTH, AND OTHER PROPERTIES cLUs~~~) OBJECTIVES IN PREPARATION PRODUCE SUBSTRATE THAT HAS -EVEN AND RAPID IMBIBITION OF WATER -UNIFORM POWER OF ABSORPTION OF DYES AND CHEMICALS -MINIMAL FIBER DAMAGE -HIGH WHITENESS -TOTAL CLEARANCE OF SEED HUSKS (COTTON) MANY PROBLEMS IN PREPARATION -DUE TO QUALITY OF SUBSTRATE -DO NOT SHOW UP UNTIL LATER PROCESSING - d *'\ $w.* \,La, h rdyr -S bLcs(c SINGEING BURNING OFF OFTHE SHORT FIBER ENDS ON THE SURFACE OF FABRICS TO MAINLY PERFORMED ON WOVEN- FABRICS COMPOSED OF SPUN YARNS. hdk thbc &e- bh bALtS THE PROCESS FABRIC IS PASSED By GAS FLAMES AT HIGHSPEED (UPTO 250 YD/MaN) -- FABRIC MAY BE PASSED OVER 1. HEATED PLATES OR ROLLS 2. HEATED WIRES FABRIC MOVES DIRECTLY INTO QUENCH BOX .. PROBLEMS 1. FLAME GAPS- SINGE STREAKS 2. MELT BALLS- MAY DYE DARKER UPON DRYINtG PRESENCE OF WATER SOLUBILIZING GROUP ON SIZE (POLYMER) FACILITATES REMOVAL IMPORTANT WARP SI7FS 1. STARCH - CELUJLDSE e C I Gk . Cff VERY POOR WATER SOLUBILITY I 2. CARBOXYMETHYLCELLULOSE (CMCI - s3X.u- >a\+ --'@ % fi -CH,C-ONA 3. POLYVINYL ALCOHOL (?VA) i C# 4. OTHERS - - -_I_ WI-CI-.--*LU--4--------.u. -.--rra FOR SYNTHETIC FILAMENT YARN A.POLYESTER SIZES POLYESTER CONTAINING SULFONIC ACID GROUPS (-so ti> WHICH AIDS _- 3 THE POLYMER IN WATER- -Do hloy *&\LE LJ-0LdCcE. 'to o-f-.cy\a/Fj: B. ACRYLIC SIZES COPOLYMER CONTAINING ACRYLIC ACID (CHL= CHI AND VARIOUS ACRYLATES J I CUH. - i" + (yL-- L y,, i t c'c c ;2I -CH - Cif,-CG - LUZ--(t+ - iU,-c+/ - ccc h dccM tCCE tcc /t ACRYLIC ACID AIDS IN DISPERSING THE COPOLYMER IN WATER, ESPECIALLY _Jc 4- 2 .UNDER ALKALINE CONDITIONS. THF PROCESSES I. DESIZING PURPOSE: CHEMICAL DESTRUCTION AND/OR REMOVAL OF WARP SIZE. WHY: SIZE PREVENTS ABSORPTION OF DYES AND CHEMICALS INTO FIBERS. SIZE MAY INTERACT WITH DYES AND CHEMICALS. DESIZE PROCEDURE DEPENDS ON TYPE-Of SIZE,CONDUCT DROP TEST TO IDENTIFY. -1. STARCH T#E&: -DOES NOT READILY REDISSOLVE IN WATER -MUST BE BROKEN DOWN INTO WATER SOLUBLE COMPOUNDS TECHNIQUES A. ENZYMES- BREAK STARCH DOWN IN WATER SOLUBLE SUGARS AND 7 DEXTR I NES -- B. OXIDIZING AGENTS- OXIDATION INTO ALKALINE SOLUBLE COMPUNDS C..- ACIDS- HYDROLYZES STARCH INTO WATER SOLUBLE COMPOUNDS a. in -ACIDS AND -OXIDIZING AGENTS CAN ALSO DEGRADE CELLULOSE. ENZYMES SPECIFIC TO STARCH A. ENYZMATIC DESIZING COMPONENTS OF STARCH I. AMYLOSE- STRAIGHT CHAIN COMPONENT I/., . ,., I #/ ,I,,, .', ,,, I' f:irf~~i &./I r'r, - 20-30% OF STARCH e LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT WATER SOLUBLE 11. AMYLOPECTIN- BRANCHED CHAIN COMPONENT 70-80% OF STARCH HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT NOT WATER SOLUBLE EFFECT Of PROCESS PARAMETERS IN FNZYMATIC DESIZI NG PH TEMPERATURE ELECTROLYTES fFFFCT 0F PH ON ACT1VITY OF ALPHA AMYU 1 loo , 5 so La I I I I I I I 1 5.0 s.5 6.0 b!Si 1.0 ?. 5 0.0 0. s H Flmm b \ I TABLE I1 RELATIVE DESIZING EFFICIENCY OF RAPIDASE DESIZING . ENZYMES AT VARIOUS TEMPERATURES 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180 18.6 23 25.6 48.8 72 81.4 100 100 \ I i TABLE 1 pH AND TEMPERATURE RANGES OF DIFFEREM AMYLASES G1 ucose Units Branch Point Random points attacked by alpha amylase PROCESS TYPICAL FORMULATION 0.1-1.0% BACTERIAL ENZYME '- 10% SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.5% CALCIUM CHLORIDE 0.1-0.2% WETTING AGENT .l. SATURA'TE FABRIC WITH DESIZE SOLUTION AT 160 DEGREES F (100% WPU) 2. DIGESTION OF STARCH A. BATCH FOR 2-12 HOURS B. J-BOX 10-30 MINUTES AT 170-180- DEGREES F c. STEAM 0.5-2.0 MINUTES AT 210-212 DEGREES F 3. THOROUGH WASH AT 180 DEGREES F OR ABOVE IS VERY IMPORTANT. 2. POLY (VINYL ALCOHOL) PVA SEVERAL GRADES OF PVA 1. FULLY HYDROLYZED 2. PARTIALLY ACETYLATED (EASIER TO SOLUBILIZE) DETERMINE GRADE _- - - SPOT WITH IODINE/BORICACID SOLUTION -TEST ~0%+w~~~~~~~ DEEP BLUE-PURPLE PARTIALLY HYDROLYZED NO COLOR FULLY HYDROLYZED FULLY HYDROLYZED GRADE REQUIRES MORE STRINGENT .CONDITIONS FOR REMOVAL. DESIZING CONDITIONS SPECIAL PROBLEMS WITH .Pv/! OVERDRYING CAN MAKE VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE- DO NOT HEAT SET BE F 0 RE DES IZ I N G . GELS IN ALK'ALINE SOLUTION AND MORE DIFFICULT TO REMOVE- WASH IN NEUTRAL SOLUT 1-ON. 2. CARBOXYMETHYL CELLULOSE (CMC) VARIETY OF GRADES- ALL READILY WATER SOLUBLE f EASILY DESIZED IN WARM WATER (150-160 DEGREES F) pJEE0 hcJTTv3Trrd 4 1' kSkk\ =STS FOR PRESENCE 0F SIZES 1. STARCH FORMS BLUE COLOR WHEN SPOTTED WITH IODINE SOLUTION. 2. PVA (PH GRADE) FORMS BLUE COLOR WHEN SPOTTED WITH IODINE/BORIC ACID SOLUTION. 3. cflc FORMS BLUE OR BLUE-GREEN $OLOR WHEN SPOTTED WITH FERRIC CHLORIDE/POTASSIUM THIOCYANATE SOLUTION FOLLOWED BY POTASSIUM F-€,j?ROCYANIDE SOLUTION. ALTERNATIVE DE SIZE OXIDATIVE DESIZE NITH PEROXIDES ADVANTAGES ‘DEGRADES STARCH, PVA, AND CMC ‘SOME SCOURING AND BLEACHING ACTION ‘CAN COMBINE DESIZE AND SCOUR DISADVANTAGES .-POSSIBILITY OF FIBER DEGRADATION ‘MAY AFFECT PLOYESTER IN BLENDS TYPICAL FORMULATION G/I MAGNESIUM SULFATE 0.06 DTPA (40% SOLN) 3.0 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 40.0 WETTING AGENT (NONIONIC) 5.0 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 4.0 ?AD COLD STEAM 10-15 MINUTES AT 212 DEGREES THOROUGH WASH 17 I 11. SCOURING PURPOSE: DESTRUCTION AND/OR REMOVAL OF OILSJ FATSJ WAXES FORM TEXTILE FIBERS. WHY: THESE IMPURITIES INHIBIT A. RAPID WETTING OF FIBERS B. ABSORBANCY OF FIBERS C. ABSORPTION OF DYE AND CHEMICAL SOLUTIONS ALSO SOFTENS AND SWELLS MOTES FOR EASIER DESTRUCTION IN BLEACHING TS.FRRMVA 1. SAPONIFICATION (FATS AND OILS) . HOT SODIUM HYDROXIDE rc- 3 2. EMULSIFICATION (WAXES) SURFACTANTS p.+h3 3. EXTRACTION ORGANIC SOLVENTS SAPONIFICATION CONVERSION OF FAT OR OIL WITH ALKALI TO GLYCERINE AND SOAP. Ab+ .Y,L a - br<eL- c1- b aasklk out FATS AND OILS ARE NATURALLY OCCURRING ESTERS OF GLYCERINE (TRIGLYCERIDES)c L' '! J-+,~--c ._- - Ri qb I- C .- & k .- - It I R= qLC6 SATURATED OR UNSATURATED FAT IS SOLID AT ROOM TEMPERATURE OIL IS LIQUID AT ROOM TEMPERATURE IN HOT ALKALINE SOLUTION (NAOH) FATS AND OILS BREAK DOWN GLYCERINE (WATER SOLUBLE) SOAPS a 10 PROBLEM SOAPS PRECIPITATE IN HARD WATER FORMING INSOLUBLE SOAPS THAT ARE STICKY, RUBBERY COMPOUNDS. THEY ADHERE TO FIBERS AND FORM RESIST AREAS, ATTRACT SOILS, AND ALTER FABRIC HANDLE. E q,sc.c&s $cL,vc s If INSOLUBLE SOAPS FORM THE "RING AROUND THE BATHTUB. HARD WATFR WA'TER CONTAINING CALCIUM AND MAGNESIUM IONS 1 SOAP (SOLUBLE) IF WATER IS SOFT, PRESENCE OF THESE IONS IN FIBERS WILL CAUSE SAME EFFECT. TO ELIMINATE PROBLEMS CAUSED ZY CA%D MG*, ADD A ?EQ~ESTERING (CHELATING) AGENT TO BATH. SFQUESTERING (CHFI AT ING) AGFNI COMPOUND THAT FORMS WATER SOLUBLE COMPLEX WITH POLYVALENT Ct l+ CATIONS (CA MG ,FEY CU MN? ETC.) so THAT THEY \qILL NOT INTERFERE WITH OTHER PROCESSES. CHELATING AGENTS. FORM STRONGER COMPLEXES WITH METALS THAN OTHER TYPES OF SEQUESTERING AGENTS. P F 6c VlA &A/ 4 w cl'! dPWF 2qL5 CITRIC ACID -ALSO AIDS IN CLEANSING 0 C - 6- c:ka + *- 0 I I C" SODIUM TRIPOLYPHOSPHATE (SIP 1 3. AMINOCARBOXYLIC ACIDS -EXCELLENT FOR MOST METALS -MOST USED N-i>Sc t &+,*-b!.- / cc), ccc I+ fiGC(2. C,H= ETHYLENEDIAMINE TETRAACETIC ACID (EDTA) 4.. AM I NOPOLYPHOSPHON I C ACIDS -SLIGHTLYBETTER THAN AMINOCARBOXYLIC ACIDS 'MORE EXPENSIVE EXAMPLE ETHYLENEDIAMINETETRA(METHYLENE PHOSPHONIC ACID) (EDTPA) 22 I FMULSIF ICATION FORMATION OF A STABLE SUSPENSION OF AN OILY MATERIAL IN WATER WAXES ARE ESTERS OF FATTY ACIDS AND LONG CHAIN ALCOHOLS (3. R-L;I 4:- 1 A WAX ‘THEY ARE DIFFICULT TO SAPONIFY ‘MUST BE REMOVED FROM FIBER BY EMULSIFICATION -PROCESSING ABOVE MELTING POINT (==go DEGREES c> AIDS IN EMULSIFICATION ‘REQUIRES A SURFACTANT (-~)U.J-XQVJ~CI pGsT.’) SURFACTANTS COMPOUND WHICH AT LOW CONCENTRATIONS IN SOLUTION HAS THE PROPERTY OF AGGREGATING AT SURFACES AND INTERFACES AND SUBSTANTIALLY LOWERING THE SURFACE OR INTERFACIAL TENSION. UC-~L-s cy& hsGfc\ pc-\rA- Ay5 THEY ARE COMPOSED OF TWO PARTS -1. HYDROPHOBIC GROUP (TAIL) 2. HYDROPHILIC. GROUP (HEAD) TYPICALLY REPRESENTED AS TAIL HEAD r- 7 i; 1 n .4 P k G +c. \2/ I ANIONICS BEST FOR PARTICULATE MATTER NONIONICS BEST FOR OILY MATTER PROBI E M-CLOUD POINTS NONIONIC SURFACTANTS BECOME INSOLUBLE IN WATER IF CHARACTERISTIC TEMPERATURE IS EXCEEDED OR IN PRESENCE OF ELECTROLYTES (SALTS, BASES) IF CLOUD POINT IS EXCEEDED -SURFACTANT NO LONGER EFFECTIVE 'CAN PRECIPITATE ONTO FABRIC ALTFRNATIVES -NONIONIC /ANIONIC BLENnS -CRYPTONONIONICS(NONIONICS CAPPED WITH IONIC GROUP) -ANIONICS (PHOSPHATE ESTERS) BTRACTION (SOLVENT SCOURING) REMOVING OILY IMPURITIES BY PROCESSING IN ORGANIC SOLVENT IN WHICH THEY ARE SOLUBLE.
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