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Issue No 15 – 2008 www.grapevine.is
LAY LOW The lessons of life.
+ A Plea For Dignity and Respect - Asylum seekers speak out. Downtown Reykjavík and its Problems The Great Hydrogen Swindle
+ Airwaves Artist to Watch YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL Complete RIFF Program AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS – INSIDE! 2 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008
TABLE OF CONTENTS EDITORIAL MASTHEAD
The recent raid on the living quarters of asylum The Reykjavík Grapevine seekers in Njarðvík has raised a lot of questions Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík Articles regarding the live of asylum seekers in Iceland. www.grapevine.is Should we perhaps take a step back and look at [email protected] The Party Needs To Be Monitored what the issue really is? The public debate seems Published by Fröken ehf. 06 You just can’t teach Icelanders to properly drink all of the sudden to centre around how much it costs the society to maintain asylum seekers while their applications Editorial: Open Letter to the Pizza King are being processed, or if they actually supple- +354 540 3600 / [email protected] 06 We love you, man ment their 2500 ISK stipend by black market Advertising: labour, or if there is a black sheep in the group. +354 540 3605 / [email protected] The Liquid Island Really, people? Publisher: 10 In captivity of the continental barathrum we degenerate and start fearing water. Iceland is one of the richest countries in +354 540 3601 / [email protected] the world. At current there are around 40 asylum Training FOR a Cagefight seekers waiting to be processed in Njarðvík. The Publisher: 10 A Grapevine intern mixes it up in MMA past indicates that all of them will be returned to Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] their homes. To this day, Iceland has accepted two Editor: More Monsters and Mythical Beings political refugees. And Bobby Fischer of course. Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] 10 Þorgeirsboli Two! The richest country in the world! Assistant Editor: The people waiting to be processed are Haukur S. Magnússon / [email protected] 8+8=8 kept in Njarðvík, away from everything, living on Contributing Writers: 11 Designers meet manufacturers in Hafnarfjörður 2500 ISK and two bags of groceries. They are not Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] allowed to work, they are not allowed to do any- Valur Gunnarsson / www.myspace.com/valurgunnarsson The Ghost Hydrogen Station thing apart from going to the swimming pool and Ben H. Murray / [email protected] 11 After 5 years, the world’s first public hydrogen station remains hardly used regularly check their email. They are kept in a de- Editorial Interns: facto prison. This is what the richest country in Desiree Andrews / [email protected] Not Quite Prison the world has to offer asylum seekers. Perhaps this Florian Zühlke / [email protected] 12 Asylum seekers are kept in limbo at a Reykjanesbær hostel, sometimes for years should be the centre of public debate regarding James Crugnale / [email protected] asylum seekers in Iceland. Marcus Walsh / [email protected] The Sequences Festival Apart from getting agitated over asylum Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson / [email protected] 32 Playing host to the Site-Specific Revolution seekers, this issue we examine the reality of Stevie Ward / [email protected] the Shell Hydrogen Station that made headlines Art Director: Rock Stars in the Making around the world when it opened a few years ago. Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] 36 Sign concert review We sit down with musician Lay Low who is releas- Design: ing the follow up to her successful debut album Jóhannes Kjartansson / www.joi.is Punk in fast forward Please Don’t Hate Me. We examine Icelandic dive Photographer: 37 Deathmetal Supersquad concert review spots and consider the future of the Pizza King. Gunnlaugur A. Sigurðsson (GAS) / [email protected] Next up: Airwaves. Marketing Director: The Cinematic Laboratory Party Safe, Kids. Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] 38 Icelandic filmmakers experiment with time Sales Director: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] For A Minor Reflection Distribution: 40 Airwaves artist to watch Vigdís Jónsdóttir / [email protected] Proofreader: The Life Aquatic: Iceland Style Jim Rice 42 Hard core scuba diving THE COVER Press releases: A Journey Without a Determined Destination [email protected] 43 Bringing out art out of the galleries Submissions inquiries: [email protected] FREE Subscription inquiries: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] I s s u e N o 1 5 – 2 0 0 8 www.grapevine.is Features General inquiries: [email protected] The Lessons of Life 14 Lay Low’s fortune in the unfortunate Founders: LAY LOW The lessons of life. Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Destinations Valur Gunnarsson The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year
+ A Plea For Dignity and Respect - Asylum seekers speak out. A Trip to the Akranes Museum Centre Downtown Reykjavík and its P r o b l e m s by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, T h e G r e a t Hydrogen Swindle
+ A i r w a v e s Artist to Watch YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL C o m p l e t e RIFF Program AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND 44 Where sports heroes go to be forgotten COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS – INSIDE! and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part Rounding up the Sheep without the written permission of the publishers. The 45 Icelandic customs die hard PHOTOGRAPHY Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around Reykjavík, Baldur Kristjáns Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at MAKE-UP key locations along road #1, and all major tourist attrac- Helga Sjöfn Kjartansdóttir tions and tourist information centres in the country. ON COVER Lay Low You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’).
Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 30.000 copies.
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LETTERS Response from the Red Cross
Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected] or text +354 893 9589
Editor’s Note people who have different stories to tell, The Secretary General of the Red Cross in and that making comments about such a Hafnarfjörður sent us this letter for publi- diverse group as if they are all the same cation regarding the recent developments can be harmful and misleading in many documented in this issue with Icelandic cases. asylum seekers. We gladly honour their request. Those who work in different services that handle asylum seekers should be Dear Reykjavík Grapevine, aware of the diversity oft the group. It is important, especially for public employ- The police search of the residence of ees to talk carefully and not to generalize asylum seekers here in Iceland on the based on few extreme cases. No matter 11th September has triggered a debate what system we apply, there will always that has taken place both in the media be those few that take advantage of it but and within the blog community. Many of the majority should not pay for the wrong the comments made have been mislead- doing of these few. The core of our legal ing and in some cases wrong. As a voice system is that a person is innocent until for vulnerable groups in society who do proven guilty. not have many other representatives, the Icelandic Red Cross finds it necessary to Many of the misleading comments have state some facts regarding asylum seek- lead people to think that asylum seekers ers in this Iceland. live in some kind of luxury, that they have a lot of money and get free cigarettes. To begin with it is vital to underscore The truth is far from it. People applying that every person has the right to seek for asylum in Iceland are indeed nor- refuge in another country. This right is mally provided with a room and they do protected both by the Universal Declara- receive food, necessary medical care, tion of Human Rights from 1948 and by access to the library and the swimming the United Nation 1951 Refugee Conven- pool from the Social Service in Reyk- tion and the 1967 Protocol relating to the janesbær. After staying in the country for Status of Refugees. four weeks they get 2.500 ISK allowance per week. Asylum seekers here in Iceland are far from being a homogeneous group. The After few years of working with people group consists of very different people who have been forced to flee their homes that in many cases have little in common and seek asylum in another country except the fact that they have managed as refugees we know that most asylum to flee their country and have asked for seekers are just normal people that have protection in Iceland. Each case must be found themselves in an abnormal situ- looked into as a particular case, the case ation causing them to flee their homes of one person and the Refugee Conven- and leaving behind what every person tion and Protocol applied in handling loves most, their friends and family. their cases. After the police searched the residence After applying for asylum the asylum of asylum seekers earlier this month, the seeker must wait. Most of them would Red Cross was approached by many who want to be able to take care of them- complained about the treatment they selves during that time. To make a living were given. Based on these complaints and be independent is a part of keeping and the media coverage in the after- our dignity. It is hard for most people not math, often misleading and negative, the to be in control of their own life, some- Red Cross has asked a Reykjavik based thing that most asylum seekers experi- legal firm to go through the process of ence. the operation and we are expecting the results, hopefully in few weeks time. Reykjavík Until recently, the Icelandic system has not been very flexible regarding work Authors: permits for those who wait for their Áshildur Linnet is the Secretary General of Welcome Card case results. When people have waited the Red Cross in Hafnarfjordur. for months, and some cases years, their Atli Vidar Thorstensen is a project man- Enjoy the Thermal Pools, Museums, passive existence becomes unbearable. ager working with refugee and asylum Depression and fear are not uncom- issues at the Red Cross Headquarters in Public Transport and discounts. mon among asylum seekers. Red Cross Reykjavik. volunteers have now for two years been visiting asylum seekers once a week to provide social and psychological sup- port during their wait. The volunteers are probably the ones most aware of the fact that the asylum seekers are all different
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BSI Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík / Phone: +354 562-1011 / [email protected] / www.re.is 6 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008 opinion Interview BY haukur s. magnúSSON — PHOTO BY GAS Open Letter to the Pizza King
From Haukur S. Magnússon
Dear Pizza King, First, I would like to thank you for your ex- cellent commitment to serving us, your humble peasants, over the past few years. You have con- sistently and continually been there for me: in times of trouble, through every trial and tribula- tion, every drunken binge, each and every case of the munchies, I have always been able to rely on your cheesy, greasy solution to life’s mysteries. And I still am. I think I speak for each and every one of us when I say: kudos to you, Pizza King. That being said, I have a few gripes that I want to send your way. Before you read this, you should remember that I cherish you dearly, and I think your contribution to our young society is a remarkable one: a labour of unfettered love and passion for which we are barely worthy. So my comments should be read as a child’s plea to a beloved, alcoholic parent, a prayer to a vengeful God – or Mel Gibson’s ‘The Passion of the Christ‘, if you will. It is not despite my love for you that I dare bring complaints to the throne room of Pizza King, it is because of it. Listen, even though your commitment to serving comfort food to a starving public at lu- dicrous hours of the day is laudable – and even though a specific blend of your oily, greasy, oily garlic oil and surprisingly spicy chilli powder will make just about anything taste pretty good – I still The Party Needs To Be Monitored think you need to re-think some of your strategies. Specifically, you need to re-imagine what it takes “You just can’t teach Icelanders to properly drink all of the sudden” to make and serve top-notch slices of pizza at prices that can’t be beat. You need to look back at where you came from, before you were crowned Pizza King, before you even were Pizza Prince. The Reykjavík Pub-owners’ Asso- Have you made a lot of headway since starting? it. They wouldn’t be attacking one another in front Seek out your roots; go back to the time when you ciation is working with officials to Yeah. We now have a presence in all sorts of groups of a police officer. were just another street-smart, Pizza-nobody with and committees that aim at making the nightlife Everyone needs some form of restraint and a hunger in your eyes and everything to prove. improve the situation in 101 Reyk- run more smoothly and downtown Reykjavík a supervision, especially drunk people. If you’re Now, let’s examine for a minute how you can javík. Kormákur Geirharðsson is a better place. We meet regularly with police and throwing a concert or an open air festival, you accomplish this. I have taken the liberty of compil- founding member. city officials to review the preceding weekends to are expected to keep security and such things in ing a list of items that you should consider, and see if anything can be done better or improved. check. A 10.000 strong outdoor festival will need have numbered them for your convenience. Some Tourism propaganda often describes 101 Reyk- We also collaborated with city and police officials a whole lot of security to ensure nothing goes of them are grievances of friends and acquain- javík as a sort of decadent-Mecca for the north, an on a report on how to make downtown Reykjavík wrong, I can’t see the situation should be different tances that I am kindly passing on, whilst others anything goes place where party-hearty squads of a safer place. We discuss everything from graffiti when 10.000 people convene downtown on week- are based on my own observations and thoughts. drunk Vikings and Valkyries roam sleepless nights to the smoking ban, city planning and transit; any- ends. And there have been times when there are I would like you to ponder the following points for in search of hedonistic outings. While the descrip- thing we think needs improvement. A lot of the maybe ten police officers patrolling downtown, the next few days, as you seek your roots and re- tion is inaccurate, downtown Reykjavík does see meetings discuss shortening the bars’ opening one cop for every thousand citizens. Anyone will claim your glory: a lot of drinking on weekends, and that partying hours, thinking that might improve the downtown tell you that doesn’t sum up. 1) Always bake a pizza all the way through often gets loud and rowdy. So rowdy, in fact, that situation; we feel there are many things the city It’s like in school, you’ve got hall monitors This should be obvious, especially when you find a lot of downtown dwellers express fear of leaving and state could improve upon before reverting to to ensure the kids behave. It isn’t any different for yourself eating a half-baked clump of sauce-cov- their houses on weekends, lest they be attacked such measures. adults, especially drunk adults. They behave like ered wheat that leaves you feeling like you ate a by a modern-day berserker. Many also complain Such as? children, and they need to be monitored as such. fucking brick. Us customers won’t mind the extra that the partying is loud to the point of disturbing We think that visible police enforcement is a pre- Not to say the cops should be carrying weapons wait. their sleep. These outcries are often followed by requisite in these things, and also steady transpor- or anything of the sort, just that they need to be 2) Turn down that crappy music demands that city officials “do something about tation out of downtown, when some of our patrons present in numbers to ensure nothing goes wrong. Nobody crowned you Disco King; we come there it”, and they in turn respond by forming task forc- need to get home. If these things were in order, One of downtown’s biggest problems is the people to eat. es and committees that suggest everything from downtown would clear earlier and we wouldn’t that group every weekend in taxi lines and such. It 3) Play music that is less crappy earlier closing hours to flat out moving Reykjavík face the situations that sometimes occur. creates a bad situation, one that would be greatly This should be obvious. If you switch, you could nightlife to suburbia. The Grapevine met up with We’ve also pointed out that shortening the worsened if all the places started closing at the even turn it up a notch. Kormákur Geirharðsson, spokesperson of the opening hours would drive dozens of families same time. If we do that, we go back a decade, 4) Contrary to popular belief, less isn’t al- Reykjavík Pub-owners’ Association, to get their into bankruptcy, you can’t just make such deci- when all the places closed at 3 AM, a situation of ways more side of the story. sions haphazardly. They must be made following total chaos. Not even the police dared interfere No, sometimes more is more – especially if you’re a proper discussion. We wouldn’t mind closing then, the people gathered in such numbers that making pizza. After a careful, scientific examina- Who belongs to the Pub-owner’s Association? earlier, but officials have got to realise that such the they could get away with anything, even taunt- tion, a panel of EU bureaucrats has put the stan- And why is there a need for one? actions have consequences. If you all of the sud- ing the cops. That was truly an intolerable situa- dard pepperoni/slice ratio at 3:1 – and the system The pubs downtown are all members, pretty den pull three business hours off us, it’s going to tion. works; they are right. That being said, I could much anyone who sells alcohol in 101 Reykjavík. affect; people won’t adjust to coming out earlier Aren’t people just drinking too much? sometimes forgive a 2:1 ratio, if the pepperoni in We have a lot of things we want to work for. Es- at the drop of a hat, it takes one or two years to Well, there’s always a part of the population that’s question are especially large, but never a 1:1 ratio pecially after the smoking ban came to effect, we adjust to such circumstances and by that time the bound to drink too much and cause a ruckus, like you seem to favour. That’s just plain insulting. felt wronged by the officials in that whole ordeal. damage is done. If the state were to lower their whether you’re at a family gathering or an outdoor 5) Throw away stale pizza The bars and pubs – the people who actually have alcohol tolls, for instance, the damage might be festival or on a plane to Spain. That’s just how peo- The product you’ve built your kingdom upon is to enforce and deal with the smoking ban – at no countered. Our research shows that the high al- ple are. Again, I think the only thing that could a time sensitive one. If a given slice of pizza has point did the government approach us for com- cohol tolls cause Icelandic bars to get the least possibly change that would be if DeCode isolated spent over two hours in your heater-box thing, you ment or insight on how it would affect our busi- revenue per liter of alcohol sold in all of Europe, the drinking gene or something; this isn’t anything throw it away and make a new one. THROW IT ness, our patrons and the nightlife. probably the whole world. In Denmark, the pubs you can change instantly. AWAY. This is not an option: this is a rule. A Pizza This is our main reason for forming the as- need to sell only half the amount of alcohol we do King is thus crowned because he is beloved by his sociation; we didn’t have a single voice in the pre- to make the same profit. people, his people will in turn love him if they can paratory committees overseeing the new smoking Would you say the current situation is intol- rely on him for good, fresh pizza every single time. laws – and there are a whole lot of such decisions erable? “It’s like in school, you’ve got I swear, Pizza King, if you serve me one more slice being made without consulting those who work in I wouldn’t say that. Due to my position, I very hall monitors to ensure the kids of stale pizza, I will write you an open letter in a the field and are affected by them. We don’t trust frequently pass through downtown and I do not widely distributed magazine and deride you for it. the people who get seats on the “nightlife com- find the situation to be intolerable. I will say that behave. It isn’t any different for Again. mittees”, as most of them don’t leave their houses there are things that need to be fixed and certain adults, especially drunk adults. Dear Pizza King. I hope you are not offend- after eight and don’t have a clue on what’s going points of stress that need to be resolved, and us in They behave like children, and ed at me for writing you this letter, for pointing out on downtown and what people that seek out the the association are trying our best to fix them. As what could be better. I sincerely hope I have not nightlife want. Our aim was to create a strong uni- for downtown violence and disorderly conduct, they need to be monitored as incurred the wrath of the Pizza King. Please, do fied voice that could work with city and govern- I really think that a more visible police presence such.” not oust me from your Shangri-La of grease, your ment officials, that could have an input whenever downtown would go a long way in countering Elysian Fields of white wheat, your oily Manna. important decisions that affect the nightlife and that. Drunken people will break their beer bottles I love you, man. our livelihood are made. on the ground if they sense they can get away with Ad Grapevine 245x195 (EE) 20/09/07 17:44 Page 1
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Poważne kary za łamanie prawa drogowego Строгие наказания за нарушения правил движения Severe punishments for violation of traffic laws Harðar refsingar við umferðalagabrotum Na Islandii można stracić prawo jazdy bądź zostać ukaranym bardzo wysoką В Исландии за нарушение правил уличного движения можно лишиться In Iceland, people can expect to lose their driver’s licence and receive high fines for violation Á Íslandi getur fólk átt von á að missa ökuréttindi og fá mjög háar sektir vegna grzywna za łamanie prawa drogowego. W niektórych przypadkach dochodzi водительских прав и подвергнуться очень высокому штрафу. В некоторых случаях of traffic laws. In some cases, the car of the guilty party will be confiscated and the driver umferðalagabrota. Í sumum tilfellum er bíll þess sem brýtur af sér tekinn eignarnámi nawet do konfiskaty pojazdu a kierowca zostaje wyslany na specjalny kurs oraz автомобиль, ставший причиной аварии, конфискуют, а водителя посылают на will have to attend a special course or even take a driver’s test again. og ökumaður sendur á sérstakt námskeið, jafnvel þarf sá hinn sami að taka ökuprófið ma obowiązek ponownego zdania egzaminu na prawo jazdy. специальные курсы, и ему придется снова сдавать экзамен на права. að nýju. Speed limits Dopuszczalna prędkość Максимальная скорость Speeding is the most common cause of serious traffic accidents in Iceland. Outside Hámarkshraði Przekraczanie prędkości jest najczęściej popełnianym wykroczeniem na Islandii. Наиболее частой причиной серьезных аварий в Исландии является превышение populated areas on paved roads, the speed limit is 90 km/hr., but only 80 km/hr on gravel Of mikill hraði er algengasta orsök alvarlegra umferðarslysa á Íslandi. Utan þéttbýlis Poza obszarem zabudowanym na drodze asfaltowej maksymalna prędkość скорости. Вне города на асфальтовой дороге максимальная скорость составляет roads. Within populated areas, the speed limit is 50 km/hr., if not stated otherwise. These á bundnu slitlagi er hámarkshraði 90 km/klst. en 80 km/klst. á malarvegum. Í þéttbýli wynosi 90 km/godz. a 80 km/godz. na drodze szortowej. Na obszarze 90 км/час, а на грунтовой – 80 км/час. Внутри города максимальная скорость speed limits are under optimal conditions. er hámarkshraði 50 km/klst. nema annað sé tekið sérstaklega fram. Þetta miðast við zabudowanym maksymalna prędkość wynosi 50 km/godz. chyba, że jest inny равна 50 км/час, если нет специального указателя о другой разрешенной bestu hugsanlegu skilyrði. nakaz. Ten nakaz może być stosowany tylko podczas dobrej pogody. скорости. Эти цифры действительны при самых благоприятных дорожных Penalties for speeding условиях. The penalty for driving at 30 km over the speed limit is 45,000 kr. The penalty for speeding Refsing fyrir of hraðan akstur Mandaty za przekroczenie prędkośc can be up to 110,000 kr, or even more, plus suspension of the driver’s licence. Fyrir að keyra á 30 km yfir hámarkshraða er sektin 45 þúsund krónur. Sekt fyrir of Za przekroczenie prędkości o 30 km mandat wynosi 45 tysięcy koron. Mandat Штраф за превышение скорости hraðan akstur getur orðið 110 þúsund krónur og jafnvel meiri auk sviptingar może wynosić nawet 110 tysięcy koron a także inne kary z odebraniem prawa Штраф за превышение скорости на 30 километров составляет 45 тысяч крон. Drinking and driving is strictly forbidden ökuréttinda. jazdy włącznie. Штраф за превышение скорости может достигать 110 тысяч и более с In Iceland, it is forbidden to drive a car after having consumed alcohol or drugs. Those одновременным лишением водительских прав. driving a car with more than the legal blood alcohol limit of 0.5 per mill, have to pay a Það er bannað að aka eftir neyslu áfengis Zabrania się prowadzenia pojazdu pod wpływem alkoholu penalty and suffer suspension of their drivers’s licence. Á Íslandi er bannað að aka bíl eftir að hafa neytt áfengis eða fíkniefna. Þeir sem aka Na Islandii surowo zabrania się prowadzenia pojazdu pod wpływem alkoholu lub Запрещается вести машину после употребления алкоголя með meira en 0,5 prómill áfengismagns í blóði eru sektaðir og sviptir ökuréttindum. środków odurzających. Osoby mające powyżej 0,5 promila alkoholu we krwii В Исландии запрещается вести машину после употребления алкоголя или Penalties for drunk driving otrzymuja mandat oraz zawieszenie prawa jazdy. наркотических веществ. Если содержание алкоголя в крови водителя превышает The penalties for drunk driving are between 70,000 kr up to 140,000 kr. If driving under the Refsing fyrir ölvunarakstur 0,5 промилле, то он подвергается штрафу и лишается водительских прав. influence of alcohol or drugs, you will not be entitled to compensation in case of an accident Sektir fyrir ölvunarakstur eru frá 70 þúsund krónum til 140 þúsunda. Sá sem keyrir Kary pieniężne za jazdę pod wpływem alkoholu and will have to bear the total cost of the accident yourself. This can amount to several ölvaður eða undir áhrifum fíkniefna fær ekki bætur ef hann lendir í slysi og þarf að Mandaty wynoszą od 70 do 140 tysięcy koron. Osoby prowadzące pod wpływem Штраф за езду в нетрезвом состоянии million krona. bera allan kostnað vegna tjónsins sjálfur. Getur sú upphæð numið milljónum króna. alkoholu bądź też środków odurzających tracą prawo do otrzymania За езду в нетрезвом состоянии взимается штраф в размере от 70 тысяч до 140 jakiegokolwiek odszkodowania i wszelkie koszty muszą pokryć same. тысяч крон. Водитель, попавший в аварию в состоянии опьянения или под Seat Belt Laws Skylt að nota bílbelti влиянием наркотических средств, не получает страховых выплат и обязан сам Drivers as well as all passengers in a car are required to wear a seat belt, both in the front Ökumenn eða farþegar í bíl eru skyldugir til að vera með bílbelti spennt, bæði í Obowiązek zapinania pasów оплачивать причиненный ущерб, который может составлять миллионы крон. and back seats. Children have to be in a safety seat or use other equipment according to framsæti og aftursæti. Börn eiga að vera í barnabílstólum eða nota búnað sem hæfir Zarówno kierowca jak i pasażer mają obowiązek zapinania pasów, również na their age and weight. stærð þeirra og þyngd. tylnych siedzeniach. Dzieci powinny być w specjalnych fotelikach, Обязательное использование ремня безопасности dopasowanych do swojej wagi i wzrostu. Водитель и пассажиры автомобиля на переднем и заднем сидениях обязаны Please keep the following in mind: Þessu til viðbótar skaltu muna: пристегнуть ремни безопасности. Для перевозки детей должно быть специальное Keep a safe distance between you and the car infront of you to enable you to stop Að hafa nægjanlegt bil í næsta bíl svo þú getir stöðvað hindrunarlaust. O tym dodatkowo powinniśmy pamiętać: автомобильное кресло или другое приспособление, соответствующее росту и your car without any problems. Að syfjaður og þreyttur ökumaður er mjög hættulegur. Zawsze zachowywać bezpieczny odstęp w razie nagłego hamowania. весу ребенка. A tired and worn-out driver is very dangerous. Að oft mælist áfengi í blóði ökumanns daginn eftir drykkju. Zmęczony i śpiący kierowca to niebezpieczny kierowca. В дополнение к вышесказанному следует помнить также, что: Alcohol might still be present in your blood on the day after drinking. Að það er skylt að hafa ökuljósin kveikt í akstri allan sólarhringinn. Poziom alkoholu we krwi utrzymuje się nawet następnego dnia. Необходимо сохранять достаточную дистанцию до движущегося впереди You are required to drive with lights on at all hours. Mikilvægt er að draga úr hraða þegar komið er af vegi með bundnu slitlagi Obowiązkowo należy mieć właczone światła mijania przez całą dobę. автомобиля, чтобы суметь вовремя остановить машину. It is important to slow down when a paved road turns into a gravel road. inn á malarveg. Należy zmiejszyć prędkość podczas zmiany z drogi asfaltowej na Невыспавшийся и усталый водитель очень опасен. In Iceland, there are a large number of single-lane bridges where you have to drive Á Íslandi er fjöldi einbreiðra brúa þar sem gæta þarf mikillar varúðar. szortową. Алкоголь часто сохраняется в крови водителя на следующий день после with special care. Það er bannað að tala í síma á meðan á akstri stendur nema notaður sé Na Islandii jest wiele wąskich mostów, na których należy zachować выпивки. sérstakur handfrjáls búnaður. szczególną ostrożność. It is forbidden to use your mobile phone while driving unless you use a special Фары автомобиля должны быть включены при езде в любое время суток. hands free mobile car kit. Zabrania się rozmowy przez telefon, chyba że posiadamy zestaw Важно замедлить скорость при съезде с асфальта на грунтовую дорогу. Á heimasíðunni www.drive.is er kynningarmyndin „How to drive in słuchawkowy. On www.drive.is, you can find an instructional video on “How to drive in Iceland“ en hún fjallar um akstur við íslenskar aðstæður. Myndin er В Исландии много одноколейных мостов, где нужно соблюдать особенную Iceland” which deals with driving in Icelandic conditions. The video is á ensku, þýsku, frönsku og spænsku. осторожность. Na stronie internetowej www.drive.is można zobaczyć film “Jak available in English, German, French and Spanish. jeździć po Islandii/How to drive in Iceland”, który pokazuje jak Запрещается разговаривать по телефону во время езды без специального powinno się jeździć w islandzkich warunkach pogodowych. Film устройства, освобождающего руки водителя. można obejżeć w języku angielskim, niemieckim, francuskim oraz hiszpańskim. На вебсайте www.drive.is есть видеоролик «Как ездить по Исландии», который посвящен особенностям езды по исландским дорогам. Текст видеоролика на английском, немецком, французском и испанском языках. rive in Iceland e.is and see how to d Visit www.driv Wszystko, o czym powinieneś Что нужно знать водителю, чтобы Important information Nauðsynlegt að vita wiedzieć dla swojego bezpieczeństwa обеспечить свою безопасность regarding road safety varðandi öryggi þitt
Poważne kary za łamanie prawa drogowego Строгие наказания за нарушения правил движения Severe punishments for violation of traffic laws Harðar refsingar við umferðalagabrotum Na Islandii można stracić prawo jazdy bądź zostać ukaranym bardzo wysoką В Исландии за нарушение правил уличного движения можно лишиться In Iceland, people can expect to lose their driver’s licence and receive high fines for violation Á Íslandi getur fólk átt von á að missa ökuréttindi og fá mjög háar sektir vegna grzywna za łamanie prawa drogowego. W niektórych przypadkach dochodzi водительских прав и подвергнуться очень высокому штрафу. В некоторых случаях of traffic laws. In some cases, the car of the guilty party will be confiscated and the driver umferðalagabrota. Í sumum tilfellum er bíll þess sem brýtur af sér tekinn eignarnámi nawet do konfiskaty pojazdu a kierowca zostaje wyslany na specjalny kurs oraz автомобиль, ставший причиной аварии, конфискуют, а водителя посылают на will have to attend a special course or even take a driver’s test again. og ökumaður sendur á sérstakt námskeið, jafnvel þarf sá hinn sami að taka ökuprófið ma obowiązek ponownego zdania egzaminu na prawo jazdy. специальные курсы, и ему придется снова сдавать экзамен на права. að nýju. Speed limits Dopuszczalna prędkość Максимальная скорость Speeding is the most common cause of serious traffic accidents in Iceland. Outside Hámarkshraði Przekraczanie prędkości jest najczęściej popełnianym wykroczeniem na Islandii. Наиболее частой причиной серьезных аварий в Исландии является превышение populated areas on paved roads, the speed limit is 90 km/hr., but only 80 km/hr on gravel Of mikill hraði er algengasta orsök alvarlegra umferðarslysa á Íslandi. Utan þéttbýlis Poza obszarem zabudowanym na drodze asfaltowej maksymalna prędkość скорости. Вне города на асфальтовой дороге максимальная скорость составляет roads. Within populated areas, the speed limit is 50 km/hr., if not stated otherwise. These á bundnu slitlagi er hámarkshraði 90 km/klst. en 80 km/klst. á malarvegum. Í þéttbýli wynosi 90 km/godz. a 80 km/godz. na drodze szortowej. Na obszarze 90 км/час, а на грунтовой – 80 км/час. Внутри города максимальная скорость speed limits are under optimal conditions. er hámarkshraði 50 km/klst. nema annað sé tekið sérstaklega fram. Þetta miðast við zabudowanym maksymalna prędkość wynosi 50 km/godz. chyba, że jest inny равна 50 км/час, если нет специального указателя о другой разрешенной bestu hugsanlegu skilyrði. nakaz. Ten nakaz może być stosowany tylko podczas dobrej pogody. скорости. Эти цифры действительны при самых благоприятных дорожных Penalties for speeding условиях. The penalty for driving at 30 km over the speed limit is 45,000 kr. The penalty for speeding Refsing fyrir of hraðan akstur Mandaty za przekroczenie prędkośc can be up to 110,000 kr, or even more, plus suspension of the driver’s licence. Fyrir að keyra á 30 km yfir hámarkshraða er sektin 45 þúsund krónur. Sekt fyrir of Za przekroczenie prędkości o 30 km mandat wynosi 45 tysięcy koron. Mandat Штраф за превышение скорости hraðan akstur getur orðið 110 þúsund krónur og jafnvel meiri auk sviptingar może wynosić nawet 110 tysięcy koron a także inne kary z odebraniem prawa Штраф за превышение скорости на 30 километров составляет 45 тысяч крон. Drinking and driving is strictly forbidden ökuréttinda. jazdy włącznie. Штраф за превышение скорости может достигать 110 тысяч и более с In Iceland, it is forbidden to drive a car after having consumed alcohol or drugs. Those одновременным лишением водительских прав. driving a car with more than the legal blood alcohol limit of 0.5 per mill, have to pay a Það er bannað að aka eftir neyslu áfengis Zabrania się prowadzenia pojazdu pod wpływem alkoholu penalty and suffer suspension of their drivers’s licence. Á Íslandi er bannað að aka bíl eftir að hafa neytt áfengis eða fíkniefna. Þeir sem aka Na Islandii surowo zabrania się prowadzenia pojazdu pod wpływem alkoholu lub Запрещается вести машину после употребления алкоголя með meira en 0,5 prómill áfengismagns í blóði eru sektaðir og sviptir ökuréttindum. środków odurzających. Osoby mające powyżej 0,5 promila alkoholu we krwii В Исландии запрещается вести машину после употребления алкоголя или Penalties for drunk driving otrzymuja mandat oraz zawieszenie prawa jazdy. наркотических веществ. Если содержание алкоголя в крови водителя превышает The penalties for drunk driving are between 70,000 kr up to 140,000 kr. If driving under the Refsing fyrir ölvunarakstur 0,5 промилле, то он подвергается штрафу и лишается водительских прав. influence of alcohol or drugs, you will not be entitled to compensation in case of an accident Sektir fyrir ölvunarakstur eru frá 70 þúsund krónum til 140 þúsunda. Sá sem keyrir Kary pieniężne za jazdę pod wpływem alkoholu and will have to bear the total cost of the accident yourself. This can amount to several ölvaður eða undir áhrifum fíkniefna fær ekki bætur ef hann lendir í slysi og þarf að Mandaty wynoszą od 70 do 140 tysięcy koron. Osoby prowadzące pod wpływem Штраф за езду в нетрезвом состоянии million krona. bera allan kostnað vegna tjónsins sjálfur. Getur sú upphæð numið milljónum króna. alkoholu bądź też środków odurzających tracą prawo do otrzymania За езду в нетрезвом состоянии взимается штраф в размере от 70 тысяч до 140 jakiegokolwiek odszkodowania i wszelkie koszty muszą pokryć same. тысяч крон. Водитель, попавший в аварию в состоянии опьянения или под Seat Belt Laws Skylt að nota bílbelti влиянием наркотических средств, не получает страховых выплат и обязан сам Drivers as well as all passengers in a car are required to wear a seat belt, both in the front Ökumenn eða farþegar í bíl eru skyldugir til að vera með bílbelti spennt, bæði í Obowiązek zapinania pasów оплачивать причиненный ущерб, который может составлять миллионы крон. and back seats. Children have to be in a safety seat or use other equipment according to framsæti og aftursæti. Börn eiga að vera í barnabílstólum eða nota búnað sem hæfir Zarówno kierowca jak i pasażer mają obowiązek zapinania pasów, również na their age and weight. stærð þeirra og þyngd. tylnych siedzeniach. Dzieci powinny być w specjalnych fotelikach, Обязательное использование ремня безопасности dopasowanych do swojej wagi i wzrostu. Водитель и пассажиры автомобиля на переднем и заднем сидениях обязаны Please keep the following in mind: Þessu til viðbótar skaltu muna: пристегнуть ремни безопасности. Для перевозки детей должно быть специальное Keep a safe distance between you and the car infront of you to enable you to stop Að hafa nægjanlegt bil í næsta bíl svo þú getir stöðvað hindrunarlaust. O tym dodatkowo powinniśmy pamiętać: автомобильное кресло или другое приспособление, соответствующее росту и your car without any problems. Að syfjaður og þreyttur ökumaður er mjög hættulegur. Zawsze zachowywać bezpieczny odstęp w razie nagłego hamowania. весу ребенка. A tired and worn-out driver is very dangerous. Að oft mælist áfengi í blóði ökumanns daginn eftir drykkju. Zmęczony i śpiący kierowca to niebezpieczny kierowca. В дополнение к вышесказанному следует помнить также, что: Alcohol might still be present in your blood on the day after drinking. Að það er skylt að hafa ökuljósin kveikt í akstri allan sólarhringinn. Poziom alkoholu we krwi utrzymuje się nawet następnego dnia. Необходимо сохранять достаточную дистанцию до движущегося впереди You are required to drive with lights on at all hours. Mikilvægt er að draga úr hraða þegar komið er af vegi með bundnu slitlagi Obowiązkowo należy mieć właczone światła mijania przez całą dobę. автомобиля, чтобы суметь вовремя остановить машину. It is important to slow down when a paved road turns into a gravel road. inn á malarveg. Należy zmiejszyć prędkość podczas zmiany z drogi asfaltowej na Невыспавшийся и усталый водитель очень опасен. In Iceland, there are a large number of single-lane bridges where you have to drive Á Íslandi er fjöldi einbreiðra brúa þar sem gæta þarf mikillar varúðar. szortową. Алкоголь часто сохраняется в крови водителя на следующий день после with special care. Það er bannað að tala í síma á meðan á akstri stendur nema notaður sé Na Islandii jest wiele wąskich mostów, na których należy zachować выпивки. sérstakur handfrjáls búnaður. szczególną ostrożność. It is forbidden to use your mobile phone while driving unless you use a special Фары автомобиля должны быть включены при езде в любое время суток. hands free mobile car kit. Zabrania się rozmowy przez telefon, chyba że posiadamy zestaw Важно замедлить скорость при съезде с асфальта на грунтовую дорогу. Á heimasíðunni www.drive.is er kynningarmyndin „How to drive in słuchawkowy. On www.drive.is, you can find an instructional video on “How to drive in Iceland“ en hún fjallar um akstur við íslenskar aðstæður. Myndin er В Исландии много одноколейных мостов, где нужно соблюдать особенную Iceland” which deals with driving in Icelandic conditions. The video is á ensku, þýsku, frönsku og spænsku. осторожность. Na stronie internetowej www.drive.is można zobaczyć film “Jak available in English, German, French and Spanish. jeździć po Islandii/How to drive in Iceland”, który pokazuje jak Запрещается разговаривать по телефону во время езды без специального powinno się jeździć w islandzkich warunkach pogodowych. Film устройства, освобождающего руки водителя. można obejżeć w języku angielskim, niemieckim, francuskim oraz hiszpańskim. На вебсайте www.drive.is есть видеоролик «Как ездить по Исландии», который посвящен особенностям езды по исландским дорогам. Текст видеоролика на английском, немецком, французском и испанском языках. rive in Iceland e.is and see how to d Visit www.driv 10 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008 essay By Ivetta Gerasimchuk article By Haukur S. Magnússon — illustration by hugleikur dagsson
The Liquid Island
The sea is rolling – one, The sea is rolling – two, The sea is rolling – three. Sea shape, freeze! Sea shape, move! (A Russian game)
We are cold in the congealed, browned off scapes of spaceless flatlands, in smeared out cities, in the bowels of the mounted sea bottom. So cold, that in order to feel the beat of life we have to move and alter all the time. We talk on the phone over- taking the speed of sound; we take transatlantic flights competing with the Earth’s rotation. We change the climate, citizenships and lovers; we modify our haircuts, bodies and children – and suffer from fear and dullness. In captivity of the continental barathrums we, like polar bears, go berserk, degenerate and start fearing water. Instead of the seal of life we enjoy a teddy substitute of the Internet. But, same as polar bears, we are lured by our natural habi- tat – a thin girdle between politically divided land and the global ocean that thrashes towards us through chains of enchained rivers, waterlogged basements and dripping roofs. Here, along the liquid coast of the ocean, ÞORGEIRSBOLI - IF YOU SEE HIM COMING, RUN FOR YOUR LIFE everything is flowing at the same speed as our blood: rolling waves, causeways of waterfalls and rainbows at the elements’ edges, sunny spotlights on the slopes of hills, climbing clouds and fog. The ocean reworks both the reflection and the re- flected giving us the freedom not to change any- thing ourselves – and to fear no changes. Washed alive again, stars, triangles, circles, and other sea More Monsters and Mythical Beings: shapes recuperate and mosaic new pictures of be- ing and consciousness. Þorgeirsboli is a Real Evil Piece of Work The watersheds divide cultures where we stop adjusting reality to ourselves or adjusting our- selves to reality and start sponging the firewater of “We’ve got this database of mon- his clan long after he passed. Or that’s how the driving her to an early grave. life. The fetters of dehydration dissolve in the bays sters and creatures in our past. story goes. After that accomplishment, Þorgeirsboli re- of the Greenland Sea, in laving lava fields, in the A lot of their stories are fascinat- Most sources say the ghost-bull was cre- portedly followed his maker, ensuring that no one craters of Hekla and Krafla. Everything changes, ated in the mid-1800s by a fellow named Þorgeir who pissed him off got a good night’s sleep. He but does not change its essence on the liquid, hot ing, it’s a shame that they’re not Stefánsson (others cite him as “Jónsson”), who soon grew infamous; tales of frightful Þorgeirs- island in the very south of the Arctic Ocean. used more in modern culture,” found himself in a state of satanic frustration boli encounters are legion in Icelandic folklore. It rises from the clefts on the shelves of Eu- remarked comic artist Hugleikur when a would-be flame rejected his advances. Some say the bull followed its makers’ family for rope and America, from the coasts of the Lake Dagsson in an interview this sum- Not one to easily accept defeat (nor very tactful, generations, causing an unholy chaos when it Baikal, on the Tibetan Plateau, in optical illusions mer. This prompted the Grapevine apparently), Þorgeir decided the best way of deal- saw fit, whether it was looking after his keepers’ of Sahara, in the light of the liquid star of Venus- ing with rejection was to manifest an evil spirit to best interests or not. Freyja. I can see this island from the windows of a to draft Dagsson to illustrate a se- haunt the object of his affection. The bull’s presence was often sensed late at night Moscow apartment, from an aircraft ladder in the ries of articles on these monsters Some sources claim Þorgeir created his beast in the countryside, when his dark, devastating Charles de Gaulle airport, in the congress-hall of of yore. For the sixth instalment by flaying a calf so that it dragged its hide by its moos would rumble the earth. Those who’ve a Kuwaiti hotel. I know that Johannesburg’s sky- in the series, Dagsson chose to tail before adding to the mix elements of dog, seen him and lived to describe it have reported scrapers, black soils of the Russian steppes, Indian man, cat, mouse, bird, air and two sea creatures him appearing as a dog, a cat, and a string of fog, illustrate “Iceland’s most vicious jungles and Appalachian ridges also can be liquid, – thus allowing the evil entity to reach wide and although most see a skeleton-bull dragging his and I warm them with the breath of Iceland. ghost”, the über-scary ghost-bull far, taking the form of all these beings. Others say bloody loose skin behind him on its tail. Some I wash my face with Drangajökull’s ice, I bathe ÞORGEIRSBOLI. he made the beast by placing a dog’s leg inside say Þorgeirsboli is still grazing somewhere in the in the columnar faceted basalt of Spákonufellshöfði, Þorgeirsboli is an unholy construct, an abomina- a flayed calf’s head and reciting evil poetry over Icelandic countryside, so steer clear of any stray I raise the glass of black volcanic sand. Skál! tion in the face of God and nature. Bred of hate them. Either way, once Þorgeirsboli was manifest cattle you may encounter on hikes and camping and jealousy, Þorgeirsboli did its maker’s evil bid- it immediately started haunting the unfortunate trips, especially if they give out a demonic, dark, dings for as long as he lived, remaining loyal to woman who’d turned down its creator, eventually earth-rumbling moo sound. article by Florian Zühlke — Photo by GAS
It all began with a seminar held by Matt Thornton, Training For the president of 'Straight Blast Gym International', an American MMA association. Arnar and his col- leagues, all disciples of traditional martial arts for a Cagefight years, took part and were disappointed at first. “We had to see that all our techniques didn't work in a real fight.” They decided to form a school for functional instead of fantasy-based martial arts with their hierarchies and rituals. “In our training, It is raining and cold on this soggy Tuesday, but your abilities and hard training count, not titles. when entering the Martial Arts school, Mjölnir, at Also, we always discuss which techniques worked Mýrargata, it is hot! Thirty men and women are do- and which didn't after class.” ing pull-ups, lifting weights or boxing sandbags. James Davis, from Portland, Oregon, tells a All you hear is some pumping jams and sporadic similar story: “As a kid, I took Judo. When I wanted pained groaning. Tuesday's course is 'Combat to rise to the next level, my sensei gave me a piece Conditioning.' “These are hard classes but they of paper with Japanese words I had to learn and are very functional” says Arnar Freyr Vigfússon, proper belt tying techniques. Even as a kid, I asked one of the founders of Mjölnir. “You get explosive- myself what this had to do with Judo?” Though ness, endurance and power. Useful attributes for Davis continued training, he practiced wrestling every martial art.” and boxing as well and joined the Straight Blast At the school by Reykjavík's harbour, a wide Gym in 2004, where he became an instructor. variety of courses are offered: Brazilian jiu jitsu, This brought him to Iceland in August. “The guys kickboxing and wrestling (and their cagefight- from Mjölnir came to Portland for six months for combination 'mixed martial arts' aka MMA), and training. We became friends and ever since then also fitness programs like the aforementioned I wanted to come to Iceland.” Davis is currently combat conditioning. Mjölnir members do hold the assistant teacher for the next three months all the courses. “We rent the facilities to other until his visa ends. Once that happens though he groups as well, like a Capoeira group, which is a will return soon. “Everyone is so nice here. And traditional Brazilian fight dance or a Kettlebell- the students are very eager to learn, which makes training group,” Arnar states. coaching a lot of fun.” REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008 | 11 article article By James Crugnale — PHOTO BY GAS
8 + 8 = 8
By Marcus Walsh
8 + 8 is a month long exhibition showcasing eight designers from Iceland and abroad, collaborating with eight manufacturers from Hafnarfjörður to create innovative products. The companies range from electric heating manufacturers to concrete constructionists, creating products from stoves to garden furniture. “The goal was to create a different view on industry and to create new potential for small companies. A deeper need is to bring more innovation into an industry that is underdeveloped, too few companies are exporting. Design products can have a new complexity. 8+8 is a Pay at the Pump - Hydrogen station by Gas little experiment to create a different vision,” says curator Hrafnkell Birgisson. A key objective for 8+8 is to enhance Hafnarfjörður´s reputation beyond the industrial connotations that it is generally renowned for. The Ghost Hydrogen Station However, the town has a long history of aluminium and concrete production that was utilised in After 5 years, the world’s first public hydrogen station remains hardly used the creative process. Katrín Ólína worked with construction company Mest to design concrete garden furniture featuring two benches and a small stool. “I used concrete, a very local and Despite considerable praise and plus.” Kristjánsson said the hydrogen buses used subishi Motors for supplying the country with a practical material to create a functional sitting high expectations for this first ma- for the trial are now being used for spare parts and fleet of i-MiEV electric cars. area and then incorporated some playfulness into another is being taken to a museum. If Iceland New Energy has their way, though, the stool,” she explains. jor step, six years later the hydro- Iceland will be a mixture of both alternative ener- This originality can raise the profile of gen station at Grjótháls remains Present day uses gies. “People tend to forget that the infrastructure the town beyond manufacturing sheer units, relatively empty and underutil- Today, 13 vehicles currently use the Hydrogen sta- for both making hydrogen and electric charge is especially in the eyes of the curator Hrafnkell ised. Iceland’s hydrogen economy tion at Grjótháls. This figure includes 10 hydrogen already in place: the electric grid. Hydrogen plus Birgisson: “Hafnarfjörður has to become known roadmap is many months behind Toyota Priuses that last year the US firm Quantum batteries will be integrated in vehicles to fulfil all for original products and more than just elves Technologies brought to the country to be used by the service demands and convenience that we and lava. After all, the project is ´Made In schedule and commercial hydro- local energy companies and rental-car provider are currently used to,” said Maak. “Right now we Hafnarfjörður´” Birgisson also points to the need gen vehicles are still unavailable Hertz. Hertz rents out three of these at a cost of are also cooperating with Scandinavian markets to export ´Icelandic Design´ but is wary of the for purchase in the country. $300 US dollars a day. and together we can bargain for a better price for limitations of this used as an umbrella term. “We Despite the introduction of these new vehi- a hydrogen vehicles. The movements of the large have to be careful not to define a culture by its On April 24, 2003, Iceland became the very first cles to the country, there still is the staggering task markets is what steers the demand and our devel- design. There is no such national design and this country in the world to open a public hydrogen of getting the remaining drivers off of fossil fuels. opment relies on their speed as well.” is only good for marketing,” he commented. filling station: the Shell Hydrogen Station at Gr- According to Statistics Iceland, excluding hydro- Icelandic designer Páll Einarsson described jótháls. At the time, it seemed to be a historically gen cars, as of 2007, there are 240,538 presumably The Trouble With Hydrogen the struggle of working with the manufacturer momentous breakthrough for the nation. Head- gas-powered registered vehicles in country. when producing bedroom lights: “I was scared lines like “Iceland launches an energy revolution!” At this year’s Driving Sustainability confer- Hydrogen skeptics like the former assistant sec- that the tooling was limited to straight lines and and “Iceland: pioneering the hydrogen economy!” ence, there were some signs that hydrogen, origi- retary of the US Department of Energy, Joseph thin metals. The company (Flúrlampar) has were trumpeted around the globe. The station nally touted as the solution to the world’s energy Romm, have shared reasons why hydrogen never entered the domestic design field and has was built from a conventional gasoline station in woes, was now becoming seen by some of the hasn’t caught on in other parts of the world. only created industrial sized lamps for shops and the outskirts of Reykjavík with construction costs participants as the black sheep of renewable en- warehouses.” Einarsson´s creative flourish added of $3.07 million US dollars, according to its impact ergy. "The battery people are very critical of hy- • Inefficiency — In terms of alternative-fueled aesthetic quality to the necessity for illumination: assessment. With one available pump provided drogen due to little energy efficiency,” said Teitur vehicles, an electric car can travel three to four “We closed an aluminium sheet in a mould and by Norsk Hydro, the station supplies energy to Torkelsson, conference organiser and managing times farther on a kilowatt-hour of renewable fired it with a shotgun. It rips in a beautiful manner fuel-cell vehicles from electrolysis produced by partner for FTO Sustainable Solutions power than a hydrogen fuel-cell vehicle. and can project the ripple onto a wall. The blast is electrolyzing water. The initial purpose of the sta- During the conference, Shell Hydrogen ad- • Doubts from Car Manufacturers — Ac- a decorative feature and not always functional. It tion was a two-year trial program to power three dressed questions about the future of the energy cording to the Wall Street Journal, top execu- is very subtle.” hydrogen-powered Strætó city buses manufac- in the country. “After the program ended two tives from General Motors Corp and Toyota Birgisson also commented on the unity of tured by Daimler Chrysler. The hydrogen bus pilot years ago, many people were asking, why is the Motor Corp have expressed doubts about the creativity and practicality as a whole in 8+8: “The program concluded in 2007. station still here?” said Steven Rouvroy, European viability of hydrogen fuel cells for mass-market mix of aesthetics and function should not be “The test time came to a logical end,” said Operations Manager for Shell Hydrogen. “Well, hy- production in the near term and suggested separated. It is important to integrate design more María Maack, Environmental Manager of Icelan- drogen is a reality in Iceland, and it is important their companies have instead begun investing in innovation politics. You can call everything dic New Energy, the company that coordinates the we keep investing.” in electric cars. ‘innovation’. It is far too seldom combined with country’s hydrogen projects. “Now, the learned When asked what the rate of growth the sta- • Environmental negatives — Popular Me- pure creativity in design and is too often to do lessons are being integrated into the next gen- tion has been over the years, Rouvroy explained chanics estimates that more than 95% of hydro- with money making. True development must be eration of buses. They should be on the market that there still was a lot of work to do. “[Logically], gen in the United States is made from natural explored first.” By combining their efforts in this within 2 years. Then it is the role of bus operators we should have dismantled the station after the gas; Romm says that as a result, running a car pilot project, the designers can shy away from or the city to introduce them in their fleets. Our bus project was over,” said Rouvroy, adding the on hydrogen in the US will not reduce net car- Scandinavian design assumptions and leave the role as a forerunning tester is over and we have station was preserved when additional projects bon dioxide emissions. stereotypes in the local Ikea. moved on to the next step: the SMART - H2. But were introduced. • Unavailability — When asked by Mc- the project showed clearly that a hydrogen fuel- Chris Paine, director of Who Killed the Elec- Clatchy-Tribune when he expected hydrogen system is operable and can only become better.” tric Car, asked Rouvroy when he expected Ice- cars to become broadly available to consum- WHEN However, according to Eynar Kristjánsson, land’s general populace to be able to buy a hydro- ers, Romm answered, "Not in our lifetime, and Open daily from 14:00 - 19:00 marketing director/head of planning and services gen car. “We don’t expect a commercial vehicle to very possibly never." Weekends from: 12:00 - 17:00 at Strætó, the trial had its share of disadvantages. be available to the public until 2015 or 2020,” said Runs until October 5. “The trial wasn’t profitable,” said Kristjánsson. Rouvroy. “There were some other difficulties. The buses We should have dismantled the WHERE took 30 minutes to be filled and they had to be The Future of Hydrogen station after the bus project Dvergur Gallery filled twice a day. We had to do maintenance in With advancements in electric-battery technol- Lækjargata 2 another place and that was really expensive; the ogy, commercial electric cars may beat hydrogen was over 220 Hafnarfjörður filling station was out of route. Those were big cars to the market in Iceland. At the conference, minuses, but it was clean energy, that was a big Iceland announced a new partnership with Mit- 12 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008
INTERVIEW BY HAUKUR S. MAGNÚSSON — PHOTO BY GAS
The Grapevine asked Atli Viðar Thorstensen, proj- ect manager working with refugee and asylum is- sues at the Red Cross HQ in Reykjavík, to answer some questions regarding asylum seekers. 1) How many individuals have officially sought asylum in Iceland since 2000? How many have been granted asylum? 2000=25, 2001=53, 2002=117, 2003=80, 2004=76, 2005=87, 2006=39, 2007=42, 2008=50 Out of these numbers, two asylum seekers have been granted “refugee status”, and nearly 40 resi- dency permits have been granted for humanitarian reasons, including 5-6 this year. 2) How many asylum seekers are presently in Iceland? There are currently 40-45 asylum seekers in Iceland. 3) Describe the process that asylum seekers must go through when they arrive in Iceland? When an asylum seeker arrives in Iceland and re- quests asylum the police department is usually the first government agency to handle his application. They investigate the travel documents, and take his photo and finger prints. They also book an inter- Asylum seeker 99345-349: Farzad Rahmanian view where the individual in question explains the reasons why he is seeking asylum in Iceland as a refugee. A Red Cross representative is present during the police debriefing and the asylum seeker has a right to confer with him in private before it starts. Not Quite Prison An interpreter that speaks the asylum seeker’s mother tongue (or other language he is comfort- Asylum seekers are kept in limbo at a Reykjanesbær hostel, sometimes for years able expressing himself in and understands) is also present. In the police interview, the asylum seeker is made to give detailed information on his back- ground, family and why he fled his home country There is an up and coming “refu- for five months. All of them live in Njarðvík’s FIT room, looking for an ID card and whatever else.” or previous country of residence. gee camp” in Reykjanesbær. You hostel, which houses the male contingent of the 40 Sultani continues: “It was around seven After the debriefing, his application is sent probably haven’t heard about it. or so asylum seekers that are in Iceland at present o’clock that morning. I was working on the Internet to the Directorate of Immigration [“Útlendingastof- (women and children are kept at a separate loca- and they barged in and said they wanted to search nun” – the government agency that oversees mat- September 11 2008, as morning slowly crept over tion). The Red Cross supplies the asylum seekers the house. They had something like 70 people ters of immigrants and asylum seekers] for review. Reykjanesbær, a total of 58 police officers and an with food, and they each get a stipend of 2.500 ISK and stayed three or four hours, and brought dogs Most of the asylum seekers wait for the Director- unspecified number of police dogs rushed the per week to spend on anything else. They are not in some of the rooms searching. They said in the ate’s response in Reykjanesbær, where they are put living quarters of 42 asylum seekers. During that permitted to hold jobs while their asylum pleas are news they had brought a translator and lawyer with up by the agency. morning-long raid, the police reportedly broke being processed, but they are provided with Inter- them, and it’s not true. We didn’t see a lawyer or The Directorate usually conducts another in- down doors to the asylum seekers’ rooms, hand- net access and a pass to the local swimming pool translator there. Just the police and the dogs.” terview with those asylum seekers whose cases go cuffed some of them, went through their posses- for recreation. “It was a really bad day, I thought maybe they under so-called “material review”, i.e. where their sions and confiscated IDs, passports and 1.6 mil- Our conversation comes off to a hesitant were going to deport a lot of people from Iceland to cases are resolved in Iceland instead of undergoing lion ISK in cash. start. The men are obviously agitated with their other countries, I was very worried.” the so-called “Dublin-way”, which means that an- Later that day, police officials were quoted in situation and they seem to have a lot of their mind, *But they are not? other state within the Dublin-pact could be respon- saying that the raid had been a total success, and while they treat my questions with an initial suspi- “No. They have the right to search, and they did so sible for handling the individuals plea for asylum. would help Útlendingastofnun (the Icelandic Direc- cion. They tell me about the life at Fit hostel, how that day, September 11. That’s why a lot of people got 4) Who makes the decision of whether to grant torate of Immigration) quickly close the cases of at they wound up in Iceland and that they would like nervous, because of that operation on that day.” asylum in specific cases? What rules and regu- least ten of the 42 asylum seekers. They stated that nothing more than to earn their keep here whilst lations to they follow? the raid had been spurred by suspicions that cer- awaiting resolution of their pleas. They also seem Where is the freedom and democracy The Directorate of Immigration makes the deci- tain asylum seekers were involved in illegal activi- to think that no one in Iceland knows about the for us? sion. If they refuse the request, an asylum seeker ties, and some of them had willingly given out false makeshift Reykjanesbær refugee camp they call Rahmanian draws a deep breath and starts talking. can file a complaint to the Ministry of Justice. The information as to their purported refugee status. home, and express a great disappointment when “Even if they are in the right, and even if they aren’t deciding agencies go by Icelandic rules and regula- Meanwhile, several of the asylum seekers I tell them the Grapevine is an English-language sure about all the asylum seekers or all the people tions, as well as the UN charters on Human rights went on record stating their treatment at the hands magazine. in the Fit hostel, it wasn’t the right way to go about and Refugee matters. of Icelandic officials stating had been unnecessary, “We want to tell our story in an Icelandic it. Let’s take a look at another country. Let’s go to 5) Is it right that those who seek asylum in Ice- inhumane and degrading. One asylum seeker – 35- paper too. The Icelandic people don’t know about America, for example. They say they want to bring land are in fact “stuck” here until their cases year-old Iranian refugee Farzad Rahmanian – went the asylum seekers staying at Fit hostel,” says Rah- freedom and democracy to other countries, like have been processed? further in protesting the raid and confiscation of manian. “Come with me, we’ll ask anyone sitting at my country and Afghanistan and Iraq. They say: Yes and no. Some bring their own passports and his possessions, and sat outside the Keflavík po- this café. No one knows about us or our situation, “We just want to give people freedom and democ- can withdraw their application for asylum and lice station in silent demonstration throughout the I want to show you, 90% of the Icelandic people racy” and we say, OK you are right. We’ll take it. But return home if the situation there changes or for weekend. don’t even know where the camp in Iceland is.” I where is the freedom and democracy for us? Can other reasons. Many are here without ID, however, The raid got a lot of media attention in Ice- accompany him to several tables and we ask the you show me? “ and could not leave the country if they wanted. But land, and the public discourse around it quickly patrons questions about the asylum seekers and “We want to see where this democracy is, people are not being kept here by the government. turned ugly – as it often does lately when matters their situation. Surprisingly, many of them have not where everyone is free and can go wherever they If they are stuck here, it is because of their circum- concerning immigrants or refugees are discussed heard anything about them, or last week’s police want. We certainly can’t. We can’t go anywhere, do stances rather than the government. in public domain. The “illegal immigrants” – inter- raid. Rahmanian seems pleased to have confirmed anything. And you are a Schengen country. Why 6) Why has the Directorate of Immigration take national asylum seekers that are made to live un- this as we sit down to further discuss. are you not following the same rules as Schengen? up to four years to answer some applications? der drab conditions at a Njarðvík hostel while their It’s not right. It’s not the same. If we were in a coun- Some cases are more complicated than others, pleas for asylum are in process – were condemned The opportunity to move forward try like Sweden or Germany or France or Italy, af- and it is sometimes hard to verify relevant infor- for “abusing the Icelandic welfare system”, amongst *How is life at the Fit hostel? ter a few weeks or months they will allow you to mation and gather what’s missing. The process other things. “Very difficult,” says Kavyanpour, “like a prison. work there and live by your own way. Even if they usually doesn’t take long, it is rather under special The local authorities did not help when they, We haven’t got any ID cards, and thus can’t go any- want to decline your request for asylum. You get a circumstances that they do. A long waiting period in a frankly ludicrous attempt to justify the raid, re- where or do anything. It is not a good life.” Rahma- kennitala [identity number]; you are the same as is bad for everyone, both the government and the leased statements saying that each asylum seeker nian takes the lead. “Nobody invited us here, the other humans living there. We have a right to ask asylum seekers, and the Red Cross has emphasised cost the state 7.000 ISK per day, that they had “this Icelandic immigration will say, so if you came by this question. The 14th article of the human rights that the process period must be shortened as much one time” apprehended an asylum seeker that was yourself here you are not allowed to do anything charter says that everyone has the right to seek and as possible, without it affecting the quality of the wanted for murder (!), and that they had suspected you want, OK? We are here for three years, some for enjoy in other countries asylum from persecution. process. But it’s best to seek answers to questions some of them of working in the black market and/ four years, they give us food every week, two plas- This is not difficult to understand, is it?” regarding the processing time with the Directorate or distributing illegal drugs. Sure enough, not all tic bags, but we are not allowed to touch anything. of Immigration asylum seekers are saints, but the same can be said Just to sit inside and look at things. I ask you this, as 7) What factors are taken into consideration about any group of humans. It certainly does not a human being: If I allow you to stay in some house I ask you this, as a human being: If when processing an asylum seeker’s applica- warrant the police’s actions that day. for three years, just watching TV and working with tion? the Internet, eating food, do you want something I allow you to stay in some house Primarily the reasons the asylum seeker cites for Under process more? Do you want the opportunity to move for- for three years, just watching his situation. Humanitarian concerns are also A week after the raid, the Grapevine met up with ward? To get a job? Exactly. That is what we want; taken into consideration when the applications are three of the asylum seekers to get their seriously to be able to live the same as other human beings, TV and working with the Internet, processed. The UN Refugee Agency has published under-reported side of the story. Present were the nothing else.” eating food, do you want some- a guidebook and instructions on how to interpret aforementioned Farzad Rahmanian, 27 year old Af- We discuss last week’s raid on the Fit hostel. the UN Refugee treaty, which was translated and ghani Elyas Sultani and 50 year old Iranian Mehdi Rahmanian is happy to report that the police have thing more? Do you want the op- published by the Icelandic Human Rights agency Kavyanpour. Rahmanian and Kavyanpour’s cases just returned the small sum of cash they confiscat- portunity to move forward? To and the Red Cross this summer. That guidebook is have both been “in process” with authorities for ed from his room, after they had broken down his fundamental in interpreting the refugee “concept”, an extended period of time, Rahmanian for just door. “I wasn’t there to give them the key,” he says, get a job? which is a closed one by nature. The number of over three years and Kavyanpour for almost four. “and they didn’t ask the owner of the house for it. asylum seekers that are granted refugee status is Sultani’s case has been “under process” in Iceland They just broke down my door and came inside my probably rarely lower than in Iceland. ;^gZ^hcZZYZYWni]ZcZlXdbZg L]dhZ`cZZhVgZ[gdoZccjbW0 BZViVcYXaZVca^cZcVbVccZZYh L]d]Vh[VgZYVXgdhhi]Z[Zaah#
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Cappuccino + bagel + joghurt = Kr. 740 Rauðarárstígur 8 14 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008
INTERVIEW By SVEINN BIRKIR BJÖRNSSON — PHOTO BY BALDUR KRISTJÁNS
The Lessons of Life Lay Low’s fortune in the unfortunate
At the beginning of 2006, Lovísa grandfather came to London on a boat as a young different. But all of a sudden I was there, alone with Elísabet Sigrúnardóttir was just man, like so many people at the time. He got a job an acoustic guitar, singing by myself. That evolved there and has been living there for a long time. into an album contract and all of I sudden I had an known as the girl from Benny Cre- He doesn’t even speak the language anymore. album to record. I didn’t even have enough songs spo’s Gang. And even that would Sadly, I’ve never been there. I am always planning for an album. First I had to write more material be stretching it, since the band to go. My grandmother and a part of my family in for an album. I essentially just released a demo. was only known by a small group London still goes there often. The situation in Sri The songs are just how they came to me originally. There was not a lot of thought put into it.” of people who pay attention to the Lanka has been very difficult, so it’s not the best time to go, but I really hope to go there sometime. Despite the album being published as essen- grassroots of the Reykjavík music You have to know where you come from.” tially a first draft, the Icelandic public fell in love scene. All that changed when she I ask if she does anything special to foster with it. It sold 9000 copies and won three catego- released her first attempt at solo that relationship with her Sri Lankan heritage, ries at the Icelandic music awards. In a matter of work under the alias Lay Low on cook traditional food for example? “Not really. months Lovísa had gone from being a minor mys- It is a very special place for me, but most of the pace sensation to playing international music fes- her myspace page in 2006. It was time I’m not even aware of it... You know, I am just tivals and having her songs featured on hit televi- an instant hit and in a matter of Icelandic. I don’t even notice that I have a darker sion dramas like Grey’s Anatomy. It all happened months she had been signed by the complexion than most Icelanders. I never even fast. Cod Music record label, published think about it. But because I have a very good re- “The album came out two years ago, and her first album, sold 9000 copies lationship with my family in London, I try to pay at the time I never thought anyone would buy it. attention to what is happening there. But I have I wasn’t even thinking about it, I was just glad to and won three categories at the not really explored those roots.” able to do it. I was really surprised when it started Icelandic Music Awards. By the to sell like it did. There were a few people who end of 2006, everyone knew Lay Country Music knew our band, Benny Crespo’s Gang, and at first I Low. As it turns out, things tend to On Lovísa’s debut album, Please Don’t Hate Me, was just the girl from Benny Crespo’s Gang. When move fast for Lovísa. she plays what could best be described as country the album came out in October, I was working in & western music, heavily influenced by American Skífan record store, and people would come up to blues and roots music. On her new album, out me and ask about the album: “who is this?” and The moniker Lay Low is apt. It hints at the quiet, al- next month, she takes an even more decisive step asked me to describe the music and if I would rec- most shy and subdued persona that is Lovísa Sig- towards country music. How did a young girl from ommend it, without even knowing that they had rúnardóttir. And just like Lay Low’s music, Lovísa Laugarnes become fixated on country? my album in their hands. Just before Christmas I has a very pleasant presence. To get the conversa- “There were so many different paths for me started to notice that people had begun to recog- tion flowing, I ask her when she first started to play towards country. I think some nise me, and ask if I was this Lay an instrument. of it goes back to my church Low person. That was new for “I started to play the piano when I was ten band. Many songs we played Discography me as well. I have never gotten years old. I don’t really count the year I spent learn- were inspired by gospel, blues Lay Low used to calling myself Lay Low. ing the flute when I was eight because I was not a and country and that’s when I Please Don´t Hate Me How did it all come about? very good student. I learned to play the piano for first started to appreciate coun- (2006) In 2005 I had access to a re- five years, but when I entered my teens, I gave it try music, although I was not hearsal space through Benny up. It was no longer cool. That’s when I started to deeply interested in it at the Benny Crespo's Gang Crespo’s Gang had a rehearsal play the bass.” time. When I got a little older, I Benny Crespo´s Gang space and some of my friends For a woman of her relatively small stature, got into country through a good (2007) and I decided to start a band. We the bass hardly seems like an obvious choice friend of mine and I began to were just fooling around with to replace the piano. “No it isn’t. I belonged to a discover a lot of old country. Lay Low some country songs and soon church, and there was a band that always played People tend to think of country Ökutímar – Music from the we had three original songs, but there, young people with electric guitars and music and think of cowboys play (2008) we didn’t have a singer. Since I drums, and they needed a bass player and asked and horses, which is very far had mostly written of the basis me if I would learn the bass. That’s what started from what I am into. Country is Lay Low of the songs, I tried to sing some it I guess. It was a lot of fun. I played the bass for such a wide music genre. I re- Farewell Good Night´s Sleep of them myself. It was awful. I many years, and it was my instrument up until I ally don’t like a lot of the new (2008) used a lot of effects, a lot of over- joined Benny Crespo’s Gang. That’s when I started stuff. I am more into the Nash- drive and overload to hide my to play the guitar in a band. I was awful. I could ville period, from around 1960. voice because I was so shy. But play a little guitar, by myself, but I had no idea how That’s really the period that inspired and influ- my friends liked it and said I sang well. I didn’t to play in a rock band. I could never keep the beat. enced my new album.” really believe them. Soon after that, two of them Eventually, they had me play synthesisers as well “It didn’t hurt that the producer who worked moved abroad to go to school so the band broke to hide the fact that I wasn’t a very good guitar with me on this new album is a big fan of the same up. player. But playing in Benny Crespo’s Gang was period in country music. He wanted to record the “I continued to write and do some singing the first time I really started to play the guitar. And whole album with the technique used in that pe- though, and my first song was Please Don’t Hate think about it as an instrument. I started to write a riod. The whole album was recorded using analog Me, which, again I recorded with a lot of overdrive little myself and it snowballed until I started as a technique, and all the equipment was old. I even because I was so shy. I let a friend of mine hear solo artist. That’s my musical upbringing.” think some of the strings had mould. But it was it and she encouraged me to put it on myspace, The church Lovísa refers to is the free a lot of fun to do. There is a very different vibe which I did for two weeks before taking it out church congregation Kefas, which her parents through the whole album just from recording in again. In the meantime, people from the Cod Mu- belonged to. Lovísa was an active participator in that environment. You can really hear the differ- sic label had heard it and they asked me to play organised youth operation in the church for many ence.” a gig for them. I had never played live by myself years, which remains somewhat responsible for before and I only had 3 songs. That’s when the her musical success. “I played with the church Lay Low is Born name came. There was no real thought behind band for a long time. I only learned to play the The songs from Please Don’t Hate me are char- it. I just needed a name for the poster because I bass in a music school for a year, a year and a half acterised by that same low key aura and easy was playing my first show and I didn’t want to be maybe. Almost everything I learned on the bass, demeanour that surrounds Lovísa. She openly ad- Lovísa, because I thought everyone would relate I learned from playing in that band during mass mits that she was very sceptical about her abilities that to Benny Crespo’s Gang, so I wanted it sound once a week for a long, long time. But I don’t play as a singer and had reservations about her music. like it was maybe a band. My friend suggested Lay with them anymore.” A part of the charm on Please Don’t Hate Me is Low, it sounded a bit like Lovísa so... Soon people Are you religious? that this tentativeness is almost audible in her re- started to call me Lay Low. I never do that myself. “Yes I am. I don’t belong to the congregation cordings. Was it difficult step to take to come out I always introduce myself as Lovísa. That’s how anymore, but I have my own faith.” as a solo artist and publish her own material? it started. This was in February 2006 and I had an “Yes, I often wonder how I got myself into album out in October.” Roots this position where I am today. I am putting out my Lovísa is born in London to an Icelandic mother second album, I have spent the last two months in In Sickness and in Health and a Sri Lankan father. Her parents divorced London recording with experienced profession- But it wasn’t always this easy. Before she ever be- when she was three and her mother brought her als, and it all feels very adult. I am still coming to came known as Lay Low, she had to struggle to back to Iceland, first to live in Kópavogur, but grips with the fact that this could be a professional just be Lovísa. “I was very sick for two years, and they eventually settled in the Laugarnes district career for me.” for a long time nobody knew what was wrong with of Reykjavík. Her father still lives in London and “When I put that one song on my myspace me,” she tells me. “The first year I was able to work Lovísa and him still have a strong relation ship. But site. I was really shy about letting people hear me and go to school, but as it progressed I wasn’t able does she have any ties to her Sri Lankan heritage? sing. I had done some singing with Benny Crespo’s to do anything. I couldn’t drive, I couldn’t talk and “I have a distant family in Sri Lanka. My Gang, but it was totally different. I had a whole I needed help to shower. The second year, I was grandmother’s siblings and their families. My band behind me, and the singing was completely constantly going through treatments to try to >>> REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008 | 15
get better. I was in persistent pain. At last I was discovered to have non-malignant tumour by my pituitary gland. It was extremely difficult because I also had a very rare neurological decease on top of it. Eventually I had an operation and it all got better. That was a new beginning. It was a very special experience. She says this experience taught her to put things in perspective, and I ask her how this has affected her as a musician. “What I learned from this was to appreciate the smaller things. And your health. I look at this as a second chance at live. Nobody knew what was wrong with me and nobody could say for certain that I would be OK again. I was nineteen and I thought I would spend the rest of my life like this, not be able to do any- thing. That was not a very uplifting vision for the future.” “Nobody knew if the operation would be a success but it went better than anyone believed it would, so for me it was a second chance. That makes you re-evaluate things. Sometimes I forget it. I can remember it know when I talk about it now. I have to remind myself more often that I am on my second chance so that this was not all for nothing. Sadly, there are a lot of people who are not as lucky as me to be able to stand up again after a difficult struggle so I have to be thankful for that. This is reflected in some of the lyrics on my first album, it was closer to me then. But I think this also changed me a lot as a person. I was so young. I was still in school and I had no idea what to do with my life. You learn from that experi- ence.” Lovísa and fellow band-member from Benny Crespo’s Gang, Magnús Öder, had been married, but around the same time she started to make a comeback from her illness, she also got divorced. “We were very young. Just kids really. I think it is kind of cute to think about it afterwards. We are very good friends today, but it wasn’t working out as a relationship. I don’t think we are any worse off for having tried it. We could have done something a lot more awful. I find it funny to be able to say that I was divorced by the age of 22. Thankfully there were no kids. There is just a dog that goes back and forth between us.” Lovísa and Magnús maintain a very close personal and professional relationship, and apart from playing together in Benny Crespo’s Gang, Magnús has been a permanent fixture in her live back-up band, both in Iceland and abroad. “We worked it all out between us. We are just very good friends. We are more like brothers and sister really. I am very glad for that. Not everybody can be such good friends after they break up.” All in all, Lovísa seems to have been rather fortunate through life? “Yes well...” Or perhaps, more fortunate in your unfor- tune really? “Yes. A lot of good has come out of the bad things.”
Lay Low's new album Farewell to Goodnight's Sleep, is out October 16. That same day, Lay Low will play a release concert in Fríkirkjan and play the Iceland Airwaves festival.
I could play a little guitar, by myself, but I had no idea how to play in a rock band. I could never keep the beat. Eventually, they had me play synthesisers as well to hide the fact that I wasn’t a very good guitar player 16 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008
CD REVIEWS CONCERT REVIEW By Sveinn birkir björnsson — PHOTO BY GAS
THE VERDICT No newbies on EP but new versions compensate for this
listen www.myspace.com/ brianjonestownmassacre
The Brian Jonestown Massacre Just Like Kicking Jesus reviewed by MARCUS WALSH
This record has two lots of two versions of songs and then the su- perbly titled ‘Bring Me The Head Of Paul McCartney On Heather Mill’s Wooden Peg’ which appears on their latest album ‘My Bloody Un- derground’. Fans may feel hard done by the lack of fresh material, but this is really just a thank you to Iceland from the ever-changing, always-partying and forever mesmerising band for the good times had here. The white shoegaze of both English and Icelandic versions of ‘Amazing Electronic Talking Cave’ wash so well together that they could have used both for one composition. The red and green swivels in the psychedelic title track doesn’t spoil the colour either. The whole EP is drenched in feedback and their choice of FX is once again ooh la la. The band gives away so much stuff away for free that it would be a bit rich for an onslaught of grumbles. No complaints here.
THE VERDICT Newcomer is a little hard on himself in his choice of name SIGN PREPARES FOR SUPERSTARDOM
listen www.myspace.com/ josefkarl Rock Stars in the Making
Wanker Of The 1st Degree Endless Dark had just finished their part in war- with a cover of Maiden’s Run to the Hills. The Retrogade! ming up the very moderate number of people al- band used this opportunity to debut the song in WHO ready gathered at Amsterdam early on Saturday front of a live audience. A similar Kerrang! release Sign night when we joined them. The thin crowd ex- where the band covered Youth Gone Wilde, had Mammút reviewed by MARCUS WALSH panded somewhat when indie-rock outfit Mam- previously landed the band a spot on tour with Endless Dark mút stepped on stage to do their part. Performing Skid Row. This debut is an absolute scattershot of electronic ideas, but just material from their newly-released sophmore al- While this might suggest that the band plays WHERE because you are scatterbrained doesn’t necessarily mean you are a bum Karkari, Mammút got a very welcome recep- heavy metal the old fashion way, Sign’s music is Amsterdam wanker. With a blockbusting sixteen tracks, clocking in at just over tion. Behind the strength of vocalist Katrína Mo- really power pop, thinly disguised as metal. The 36 minutes, the trouble is that an idea doesn’t get the opportunity to gensen, Mammút is an enjoyable live band, and Darkness comes to mind. Sing-along choruses WHEN flourish like it deserves and that’s a shame. The sound is very remi- their long-overdue return from a self-imposed with a hard rock edge, written for mass con- Saturday, September 20 niscent of British contemporary Nathan Fake, employing Yamaha hiatus is surely welcomed. sumption. But none of the above really matters, keyboard distortion to a very choppy effect like in the excellent ‘Blast With the stated reason for the night’s show because onstage Sign look and act the part of bi- THE VERDICT Them All’. If only the idea was fleshed out beyond its mere 1 minute to raise funds for an upcoming tour in support of gger-than-life rockstars better than anyone since Sign proved they are and 40 seconds, then it could form part of the spine of the album. This their last year’s release The Hope, Sign should Mötley Crüe did 20 years ago. I’ve seen them play ready, willing and able to is not yet fully realised enough to be termed Intelligent Dance Mu- be pleased with the turnout. When the band live about ten times in recent years and everytime rock. sic™ but it does display compelling potential. The next step for Jósef appeared on stage, Amsterdam was packed and I’ve been equally impressed with their stage per- Karl Gunnarsson will be an interesting one and despite the apparent crowd was ready to rock. For the last year, Sign sona and performance. Their perceived shortage inconsistency here, he can still go and rub one out in satisfaction. has quietly been making a name for themselves of metal pedigree should not hold this band back in international rock circles, courtesy of Kerrang! as long as they can keep the cool. magazine. The band was recently awarded a spot on an Iron Maiden tribute disk alongside establis- hed acts such as Metallica and Machine Head, Auður, Gljúfrasteinn. Photo: Halldór Laxness, 1955 © Halldór Laxness’ Family Laxness’ © Halldór 1955 Laxness, Halldór Photo: Gljúfrasteinn. Auður,
MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS SURTSEY – GENESIS THE LATE VIEW The ancient vellums on display Multimedia exhibition on a new volcanic island Halldór Laxness’ private photographs
EXHIBITIONS - GUIDED TOURS The Culture House – Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11 am and 5 pm National Centre for Cultural Heritage Free guided tour of THE MEDIEVAL MANU SCRIPTS CAFETERIA - CULTURE SHOP Hverfi sgata 15 · 101 Reykjavík (City Centre) exhibition Mondays and Fridays at 3:30 pm. Tel: 545 1400 · www.thjodmenning.is REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008 | 17
CONCERT REVIEW By Florian zühlke — PHOTO BY HÖSKARINN CD REVIEWS
THE VERDICT Live album would be best coming from just one venue
listen www.myspace.com/ thefoghorns
The Foghorns Willa Cather Way
reviewed by MARCUS WALSH
Like how The Dirtbombs throw down garage rock and soul into live recordings, The Foghorns employ percussive ‘bucket music,’ (a genre the band themselves have coined) and bluegrass on Willa Cather Way and sound decent for it; well, at least for the six first tracks anyway. The acoustics sound very different between the two live venues of Homer’s in Omaha, New England and Zoma in Madi- son, Wisconsin. The final two tracks from the latter venue suffer as a result of a tinny recording and hearing too much of the crowd jars considerably with the previous succinct sound quality and straight- talking lyrics of singer Bart Cameron. The frankness of “This is a bad place to be sober” in ‘So Sober’ is akin to the author that the CD is named after and is humorous, especially in the context of the venue here being a record store. Overall, it’s just a shame about the last two tracks.
THE VERDICT Unknown quantities Sleeps like an angry bear SURE ARE ANGRY equate to a positive sur- prise Punk in Fast Forward
Kaffi Hljomalind is still Reykjavík's most reliable It was not just their traditional emo-sound, that bet when it comes to all-ages shows. Regrettably, fell somewhere between Texas Is The Reason WHO Sökudólgarnir the times that the concerts begin are less than and Mineral, that suddenly resurrected all of the Morri, Líf & Fjör predictable. So I had to wait 45 minutes the last teenage desperation and rhapsodic joy of those The Best Hardcore Band in time I went there and this time I missed the first mid-90s bands. The band played flawlessly and the World, band, when I was 25 minutes late. seemed more dedicated with every song. For this Sleeps Like An Angry Bear, reviewed by MARCUS WALSH That's why I did not get to see Morri this eve- reason, it is not surprising that they were the most Death Metal Super Squad ning. Sorry guys! The band cannot have played celebrated band this evening. Good job! Just one This record is put on the desk in a brown paper bag. No previous longer than 20 minutes. Anyway, brevity should thing: when you want to ecstatically wreck your WHERE encounters with the band. Whatever to expect? It’s just an EP so if it’s characterise this evening in general, as no band instruments at the end of the show, just throwing Hljómalind tedious, then at least it will be over soon. Late Sunday night, I lit some (except Sleeps Like An Angry Bear) broke that your drumsticks aside and, uhm...kicking over candles and pressed play. Holy smoke. Not being able to understand mark. your drum stool is not very Kurt-Cobainesque. In WHEN foreign lyrics can often be a shortcoming to the listener if the music The first band I saw was called The Best for a penny, in for a pound! Friday, September 19 grates. However, a deeper listen beyond the words reveal that the Hardcore Band In The World. Unfortunately, The last band of the evening was Death folk and bluegrass on offer here is amusingly peculiar enough in its the four could not live up to their name at all, Metal Super Squad. Yet, by then there were only THE VERDICT conviction while still sounding familiar. Sökudólgarnir translates as although their mixture of fast old-school har- about 20 people left of the audience. All the others Many interesting ideas ‘The Culprits’ and the music is similarly mischievous. All five tracks dcore and melodic elements would have been a missed out on a way-too-short but intensive show saw light of day but the are strong, especially the upbeat country of ‘Símanúmerabúggí’ that good basis. However, their sloppy playing gave by this punk rock band. They should have played show suffered for its creates an urge to see it played in the flesh. The band offer variety as the whole show a very unmotivated appearance. more than ten minutes though. Because of their brevity. ‘Rónablús’ offers a light blues boogie, if you’ll only take the record by The audience answered by standing around mo- set's brevity, their show seemed somehow incom- the hand. tionless. plete. Still, what would you do if everyone left After their short gig, Sleeps Like An Angry right before your gig? Bear got on stage. This trio really inspired me.
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AVj\VkZ\^(+IZa/**&(*')DeZcBdc#";g^,#(%"&-#&*#HVijgYVn,#(%"&,#(%#HjcYVn-#(%"&,#%%# 18 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008 article article By Marcus walsh — photo by Gas
DJ Platurn Home at last
Ragnhildur Magnúsdóttir, is the director of From Oakland to Iceland: A Hip-Hop Homecoming, showing at this year’s Iceland Airwaves festival. Raised in California and part of the famed Oakland Faders Crew, her brother DJ Platurn returns to his native Iceland which he left at age 7. The film docu- ments his life as an exported Icelander and ex- plores his three week tour DJ’ing in his homeland, reconnecting with his family, and lifting the lid on Icelandic rap and beatboxing.
The film examines the difference between Ice- landic rap and the rest of the world. How do you explain the difference? Most people don’t even know there is hip hop in Iceland; people don’t put the two together. An Ice- landic rapper's reality is European politics or drugs or domestic violence. They aren’t shooting caps in anyone’s asses scene from the past: Icelandic delicacies How do you describe the movie? It’s a Fusion of hip hop and Iceland, the flavor of my brother's two cultures- the beats he produced with the landscape. It contrasts. I can relate to it;0 although I live here now, I lived in the states for 18 Old Food in New Context years. When you’re away, you really want to get back on the front of a mountain, you want to go An Exhibition of Icelandic Food History somewhere and be in the landscape. How would you describe your brother's works? He mixed Bjork's ‘Human behavior’ and Public En- emy. I love how eclectic he is. ‘Gangsta Rap meets The buffet of the century: a history The only fruit that were available were for those the freezer was the best hiding place for this. 80’s funk soul’ is how to define my brother -it has of Icelandic food culture is the who needed prescriptions. The doctors prescribed Where do you find such interesting stories? to be funky. oranges and such for colds. The government ran Before this exhibit there were no good books What do you hope will happen for this mov- first exhibit of its kind, focused this for around 25 years. about Icelandic food culture. We had to do this ie? on Icelandic food culture in the Are there any other myths that need dispel- ourselves. We gathered together old recipes and I’d like to show it on a few different mediums and 20th century. Organiser Sólveig ling? interviews. There are only primary sources for a couple of festivals, and a premiere in Oakland. I Ólafsdóttir sheds some light on the From the beginning of the 20th century, until 1930, available for research purposes. A lot of untold hope it gets out there and people see it, and if it ex- project. there was free import for everything into Iceland, stories. The whole thing lacks a lot of overview. We poses ten people to Icelandic hip hop or the great unlike in the latter part of the 20th century. We go forward and try to fill out the full picture of Ice- music my brothers been doing then that’s perfect. need to dispel a few myths. We say to foreigners landic food culture. There’s not so much you can do with a movie this So, can you tell us a little bit about the upcom- try the shark, try the black death, try the sea pests, How do you recreate such history and pre- size, I’m aware of its short comings. ing exhibition? but we don’t like them either. There is nothing vent an exhibition being ‘dry’? How has it been launching the film in Iceland? The exhibition is about food in Reykjavik in the we can term typically Icelandic. There is nothing It’s difficult to put food in an exhibition and so an It’s been hard, the film circle here is very small and 20th century. It is a timeline showing the food cul- unique about this. You shouldn’t like something atmosphere will be on display in a very orderly old closed. The Icelandic Film Centre has been very ture change in Reykjavik. On the opening weekend just because it is “Icelandic”. The only thing that is kitchen exhibit. Posters of old brands from Iceland supportive, but other than that, it’s been very typi- we’re offering a five course menu on the Saturday, ‘unique’ is that only an Icelander would typically will be on the walls, including one of a canned cally ‘Icelandic’ and negative. I’ve even had female including rye bread with whipped cream. This an eat dried fish and butter. meat called ‘Geysir’. Brands that have been around filmmakers ‘dissing’ the project. I experienced that Icelandic version of a Danish dish that normally What was Reykjavik like for foreign troops for many decades, having connections to every some people were relatively negative towards it includes apples. stationed here? household. and it made me want to connect to people abroad. Apples were hard to get hold of earlier this During the Second World War, 20,000 British sol- Did any foods get ‘lost in translation’ along Maybe it was because the local scene was so nega- century weren’t they? diers got bored of the canned meat they brought. the way? tive that I ended up talking to MTV. I was looking The myth that Icelanders ate their first apples Reykjavik housewives tried to make fish and chips. We are actually going to offer mistaken recipes for other ventures: if anyone attempts to film some- around 1950 is simply not true. For the first 30 There was no history of deep fried culture here because of the errors in translation. In one recipe thing here without asking ten people in the scene years of this century, if you had money you could though. It was just bad potatoes. from Norway in baking cookies, you should use for help, or if you do it on your own and show up buy apples and grapes in Reykjavik. It was very Where would this kind of event take place? blackcurrant, but in translation they came out as with a film- you’re almost like an intruder. At Sk- special. Most of the ships came from England or Hotel Borg was one of the locations. The cooks coriander cookies, so I am going to bake some of jaldborg where we premiered the film it was pretty Denmark. You could call them “colonial grapes.” and the managers of the hotel tried to make the those! positive, but there was this strange vibe around, The government banned imports on fruit and veg- menu like continental style for the officers. The of- like ''who does this bitch think she is?' You have etables shortly after the Second World War. Some- ficers did not like this food. It sounds hilarious. Buffet of the Century: A History of Icelandic to own it. I’m not going to participate in that nega- time around 1955, we began to import fruit again, Did the Reykjavikians get anything back in Food Culture runs from September 26 to No- tive bullshit. I had 70 women in my apartment last but only at Christmas time. Especially apples. The return for their “efforts”? vember 23 at night, all networking and female bonding. smell of the apples are deeply connected with In return, the canned meat that the troops brought Aðalstræti 10, 101 Reykjavik Christmas still today. was the hottest thing on the black market. The mili- www.matarsetur.is So was it just apples available? tary brought many other things off the boat and REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008 | 19 article and Free travel bookings The Cinematic Laboratory LOOK for all services Filmmakers experiment with time BOOK in Iceland Book hotel, guesthouse, By Stevie Ward ...free travel services whale watching, horse riding, Sylvain Lavigne from Montreal, along with his two collaborators, Ianic Mathieu and all around Iceland glacier tours etc. Janick Lavoie, has launched an event called the Grettir Kabarett. The Canadian based Kino organisation invites members from around the world to meet in Reykjavik to col- laborate with local artists, filmmakers, actors, and musicians in order to make films Blönduós Akureyri in 72 hours. Secure Look and Book kiosks credit card The Hypothesis are located inside payment According to legend, Kino started in early 1999 in Montreal when a simple bet was the Information and printout waged between friends: produce an original short film every month until the new mil- Centres in these places: of booking Egilsstaðir lennium and the end of the world. A year later, they were disappointed to learn that the confirmation. Apocalypse had been postponed, but true to their word, and two hundred short films With more to come soon Borgarnes Hveragerði www.lookandbook.is later, the Kino concept was born. Laboratory Theatre is always a challenge. Fuelled on a creative spirit and found- ed on buzzwords like ‘Organic’ ‘Fused’ and ‘Collaborative’, the European trend for time-based devised theatre has bred its way around the world. Thankfully, this idea has finally found its way into interactive film events, where half the joy is not in the finished article, it is in the art of making of the work itself.
The Formula Every morning during the Kino Kabaret, a brainstorming session takes place at the ‘Kinolab’- a veritable ‘Bat Cave’ for filmmakers. The teams are formed and the rest is left to cinematic chance. “It’s like putting a party together.” Sylvain comments “You know where and when and what to bring, but then you have go with the flow.” Col- laboration between the hosting city’s artists and the Kinoïtes (Kino members) is the ultimate goal. The challenge for these newly formed teams is to produce forty-five minutes of original programming with no fighting or using pre-made dialogue, scripts or foot- age. “Inspired by kinè, a Greek word meaning movement, KINO is Independence and Freedom of Expression.” Their mission is to assemble artists who believe that the im- portance of a cinematographic work does not rest on the amount of its production budget; the real test is in the simultaneous fusion of different egos, creative visions and improvisational work styles.
The Catalyst When a lab experiment is finished, there is always an unveiling. The catalyst for great Kino film is the challenge to have the films complete for open screenings hosted by the Kinoïtes every seventy-two hours. As well as releasing their fledgling films into the Kabaret ambiance with cocktails and constructive criticism, each director is encour- aged to muse over their new work and answer questions about their journeys and respective methodologies.
The Results As creativity goes, it is better to expect the unexpected. “There are gems and crap, you invite everyone and they give it their best shot.” Sylvain explains “It’s part of the spirit of the event, there are wonderful surprises. In Berlin there was a French breadmaker who got inspired by a screening, and decided he wanted to make a Kino. It wasn’t the most wonderful piece, but it wasn’t bad. Now he can go back to his bakery, and say he made a film- that’s a wonderful thing. Another guy came across the Reykjavik Kabaret, got adopted by a group and ended up in front of the camera–he now has an agent and is working in television.” Although Kino does not promise automatic stardom or baked goods, it can offer a new challenge for film and theatre artists from various backgrounds around the world, and a great chance to share talents with a public audience.
INFO The Kino Kabaret is a year-long organization with over fifty independently run- ning chapters in fourteen countries and four continents. The fifth annual Reyk- javik International Film Festival (September 25-October 5, 2008) is host to this year’s Kabaret. For more information please see http://kino00.com.
To take part Show up on September 27 at Hresso at 20:00.
New in Reykjavik? Need help getting started?
Service centres provide information about DAY social services tours The department of welfare gives information and advice about social entitlements and provides support in cases of social or personal problems for registered residents in Reykjavik. For general information about operations in the City of Reykjavik and additional information on Spectacular e.g. specific housing benefits, pre-school applications or financial aid, you should contact service centers in your own neighbourhood: • Vesturgarður, service centre for the residents of Vesturbaer district, Hjardarhagi 45-47, Breathtaking tel. 411-1700 • Miðborg and Hlíðar, service centre for the residents of the city centre and the district of Hlidar, Unforgettable Skulagata 21, tel. 411-1600 • Laugardalur and Háaleiti, service centre for the residents of the districts of Laugardalur and Haaleiti, Sidumuli 39, tel. 411-1500 • Breidholt, service centre for the residents of Breidholt, Alfabakki 12, tel. 411-1300 Glacier & Hot • Ábær and Grafarholt, service centre for the residents of the districts of Arbaer and Grafarholt, Baejarhals 1, tel. 411-1200 • Miðgarður, service centre for the residents of Grafarvogur and Kjalarnes, Langarimi 21, spring walks tel. 411-1400 Borgartún 10-12 105 Reykjavík Tel: 411 9000 www.mountainguides.is www.reykjavik.is Phone: +354 587 9999 20 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008 article by Sveinn Birkir björnsson — PHOTO BY GAS
For a Minor Reflection Airwaves artist to watch
Iceland Airwaves is fast approach- ing. The line up is complete, so now it is time to start planning what to see and what to skip. The Grapevine is always willing to lend a helping hand, so as a part of our effort to preview the festival, we present an Airwaves artist to watch, a band that you should make every effort to see this year.
Last year, the post-rock foursome For a Minor Re- flection released their debut album, Reistu þig við, sólin er komin á loft..., an instrumental ode to the sun presumably, that was widely regarded as one of the finest releases of 2007. Like so many bands before them, FAMR begat its life in a garage. And like so many other bands, they are bound together by their love of Pink Floyd and improv blues. “The guys had been playing to- gether for a while, and then I met [guitarist] Kjar- tan [Hólm] at a high school dance and we were drinking and talking and he invited me to come to jam with them in the garage,” says Guðfinnur Svein- sson, the band’s other guitar player. “We were just jamming to Comfortably Numb and improvising some blues to begin with.” It was a modest beginning by all accounts, but things progressed fast and soon the band was head over heels in the process of recording an al- bum. The hour-long instrumental opus was well re- ceived by the music press and fans alike. “We don’t really try to define ourselves, we don’t really think of ourselves as a post-rock band, but we won’t get mad if someone decides to call us that,” Guðfinnur says about their perception from the music press. The success of their debut album has led to bigger and better things for the young band, and next up for the youngsters is a tour through Europe in support of Sigur Rós. “That’s like going from the first division to the premier division,” Guðfinnur says. “It is a big step for us, and I just hope we’ll be able to prove we are worth it.” The band has already started work on their follow-up album, which should see the light of day in the not too distant future. “There will be lesser blues influence on it,” Guðfinnur explains. But there is still room for some improvisation. “Kjartan usu- ally brings in the basic idea and then we improvise around it. Then the songs continue to take shape while we play around with them in rehearsal.” “But right now, we are just focusing on the tour. Airwaves is just a warm up for the tour. If we do well there, then that’s just an added bonus.”
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The Housing Financing Fund offers walk-in service at its main office in Reykjavik, Mondays through Fridays, 8 am – 4 pm. Our advisors are ready to assist you with credit evaluations, loan applications or answer any questions you might have regarding home purchasing and/or home loans. You can also call us at 569 6900 or toll-free at 800 6969. 8]ZX`djii]ZiZgbhVcYXdcY^i^dchd[djg]djh^c\adVchVilll#][[#^h Tel:551-2344 [email protected] Address: Vesturgata 3b lll#][[#^h 101 Reykjavík 7dg\Vgic^'&!&%*GZn`_Vk` IZa/*+.+.%%!Idaa"[gZZ/-%%+.+. Iceland’s very first Tapas-Bar 22 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008 destination — UNDERWATER
The Life Aquatic: Iceland Style by Desiree Andrews
Thanks to the development of new technology ers like Erlendur Bogason and Omar Haflidason, who have been diving fied with the otherworldly feeling of going just a few meters below the designed to tackle the problems of frigid water for over ten and twenty years respectively, know that Iceland’s waters surface. It strikes me that the history of Iceland is so pervasive that it’s and severe weather, Iceland’s waters have are ripe for discovery. nearly tangible; it leaves me wondering what else might be waiting to While the rough waters surrounding the island will tear apart be found. become the new frontier in diving and a revolu- most sunken vessels within two or three winters, there are still protect- tion is happening meters under the surface. ed fjords where lost ships are preserved and these wrecks are just wait- Erlendur Bogason is a scientific diver who is most famous ing to be found. “In Iceland there are a lot of undiscovered things,” says for discovering Strýtan, the world’s only geothermic chim- Underwater explorers have travelled the world for decades, building a Erlendur, a scientific research diver. “One year we found three wrecks ney that can be reached by a scuba diver. Below is a list of legacy of adventure and romance. But until now, Iceland has been left in one week.” his top five dive sites in Iceland. all but untouched. According to Tobias Klose, owner of the Reykjavik The secrets to aquatic treasures like sunken ships are found on based dive company Dive.is, today cold-water recreational diving is land as often as they are underwater. As a boy, Omar heard stories of Lónafjörður located in northeast Iceland. becoming a trend but diving here is more than fish-gazing and under- farmers in the West Fjords who looked out past the shore and saw doz- Best dived April-May. Some 10–15 years ago I was working as water tourism. Commercial divers have been in high demand for years ens of men walking across the frozen sheets of ice toward land, leaving a diver in Þórshöfn and the local fishermen showed me a big and the scientific community is starting to turn their eyes toward the icy their ship, deeply embedded the frozen sea, to sink to the bottom of steam of cod. Every year the cod comes to the same spots to waters of this once forgotten area. the ocean. For a long time he wrote off the tales as rumour but when spawn. Since then I have dived there every year to study the cod Jeff Timm, a diving guide at Diving.is, took me to Þingvellir Na- he found the story written in a book of 17th century Icelandic sagas, spawning behaviour and also how the cod behave around fish- tional Park to give me a taste of dry-suit diving at Silfra, considered by the details of a sunken British ship were so well documented that he ing gear, especially hooks. many well-respected divers to be one of the top five sites in the world. thought there might be something to it after all. With a visibility that is unrivalled—on a good day a diver can see over Years later, as a commercial diver, Omar and a few friends set out The hot water submarine cones in Eyjafjörður 100 meters— and deep canyons created by the divide in the American to find the lost ship. “At first, nobody believed that we would find any- In 1997, we discovered the giant 50m high cone in Eyjafjörður. It and Eurasian continental plates, diving here feels like an epic adven- thing,” he said. “We had the stories with us. The eyewitness accounts rises from the seafloor at 70m depth up to 15m depth under the ture even if you’re just going down a few meters. were well described and we had good landmarks—in a way it was like seafloor. The fresh water that comes out of the cone is 73.6°c. The dive gear takes about 20 minutes to put on. Silfra water is a treasure map.” Using the clues from the saga, they pinpointed the lo- This was the first underwater area in Iceland to be protected cold and protecting every part of your body becomes paramount if cation and sent down an underwater sonar device to see what they by law. you’re going in. Getting suited up is a cumbersome process, starting could find. The trip was worth the effort as the sonar reported back with a full-body thermal layer and completed by a heavy neoprene dry abnormal echoes that indicated the existence of foreign objects on the Icelandic fresh water rivers suit. Aside from the oxygen, this is probably the most important tool for ocean’s floor. When you dive under the surface of a clear Icelandic river you diving in the icy waters. After their hunch was confirmed, Omar and his team took on sev- will discover colours and fish you don’t expect and diving under Once I’m adequately waterproofed, I put on a snug neoprene dive eral dives over the course of a few years, pulling up wood planks that a big waterfall is an indescribable experience. hood, gloves and a mask before I am loaded up with weights, an oxy- established the ship’s age— over three hundred years old—and later, gen tank and flippers. I have to say that even though everyone in full using a metal detector, they found three cannons. The Skútan Standard in the harbour of Akureyri dive gear looks a little ridiculous, it still feels pretty bad-ass. All I need Omar and his team had solved the mystery of the saga. “It’s not often The 60m long and 11m wide ship was discovered by me and two is a gun strapped to my hip and a 1970s spy theme playing in the back- that a commercial diver gets to be part of an adventure like this,” he other divers in 1997. ground. says. “And when we do it’s very exciting.” Cold is not quite the right word to describe Silfra. My lips instantly Omar isn’t the only diver to follow the clues from the past to inter- Surtsey and Heimaey become numb; they are only thing exposed to the true temperature of esting dive sites. On a trip to the northeast coast, Erlendur ran into an I dived here with Karl Gunnarsson, a seaweed biologist. We the 3°C water. I breathe softly, pulling air from my regulator and head old man who claimed to have seen two British trawlers sink in the har- were studying how life begins at the floor of the new island. This down below. It’s certainly no dip in a tropical sea; there’s a constricting bour near his farm in 1933. The farmer said that all of the men survived is special for me because I was born in the Westmann Islands feeling of the freezing water pushing in on me but that goes away after a the shipwrecks but were plagued with disease and had to be quaran- and the eruptions of Surtsey started in 1963 – the same year as bit and I’m left to experience what divers in this area have been feeling tined to the small farm for over 30 days. Erlendur loaded up his gear and I was born. for the past two decades: an overwhelming sense of amazement. found the sunken trawlers within an hour. In doing so, he unravelled a While recreational diving is a growing industry in Iceland, com- rich strand of history that would otherwise have been forgotten. Dive.is offers trips to Silfra and other dive sites year-round. mercial and scientific diving has an exciting, if not long, tradition. Div- I end my dive less eventfully than these divers, but I am still satis- Check out their website, www.dive.is, for more information. REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008 | 23 “You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't been to us“ interview By BERGUR EBBI BENEDIKTSSON — PHOTO BY GAS Don’t miss it!
Viking feasts every night - live entertainment For booking and further information: Tel.: +354 565-1213 www.vikingvillage.is [email protected] Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur
We don´t serve foreigners... A Journey Without a Determined Destination because to us - nobody is foreign. Only 45 min. drive from Reykjavík is Eyrarbakki, a beautiful village by the south coast, where foreigners have been feeling at home since the 9th century AD. So welcome to Rauða húsið, a restaurant that makes you feel at home. “We are interested in the phenomenon of ress and maybe it will be more strictly Tel: (+354) 483-3330, screen-tests. It is an interesting blend of act- INFO moulded three weeks after the opening or Eyrarbakki - South coast ing and being yourself,” says Ólafur Ólafsson Libia Castro and Ólafur maybe it will still be quite loose. one of the two artists behind the exhibition Ólafsson have worked Everybody is Doing What They Can, recently together as a pair in nu- A travelling show opened in the Reykjavík Art Museum - Haf- merous projects in the past Their idea is to take the exhibition out of narhús. The show revolves around videos years. Their art often deals the exhibition hall and project some of of people being interviewed in a screen- with themes of socio-polit- the videos in other locations around town test manner, as if they are auditioning for ical situations and they put to further difuse the boarders between a part. Some videos were produced before an effort in to integrading the public space and the museum. “Our the opening but there is also a studio inside their art in to the com- background lies in social sculpture, life the exhibition hall where people are inter- munity where it is shown. art, fluxus and conceptual art. Life art is viewed on the spot. They do this by staying for experiential, it is not aiming at putting it- The exhibition, which Ólafur’s col- long periods on site and self apart from life but to take a place in laborator Libia Castro says is best explained with the cooperation of life,” says Ólafur. Maybe it is the journey by using the word “project,” is the first in a local communities and but not the destination? Olafur and Libia series set up in Hafnarhúsið where the rela- activist groups. Libia and agree on that in this case. There is no final tionship between the museum and the pub- Ólafur had a big project on goal since the process itself is the goal. In lic space outside its walls is examined. I ask the Manifesta7 Art Festival the meantime, I guess everybody is doing Olafur and Libia about the idea behind the in South Tyrol in Italy what they can. screentests and how it is aimed to examine earlier this year and also the relationship between the public and the had a notable input on the Olafur and Libia’s project will be up until museum. CAC Festival in Malaga in November 2. A new exhibition by Hlynur 2007. They have received Halldórsson which carries on the theme Image building process several awards for their of erasing boarders between the museum “The original idea we had was to make an achievements. and the public will open on November 6. advertisement for television but we weren’t The exhibition is called “In/Out” and is sure what subject we wanted to advertise, if any, since that about making a deal with various companies around town was not the main issue. In order to start that project we de- and borrows items from them to install them in the museum cided to arrange informal interviews with people and record in a formal manner. The companies, which can be shops or them. Then we realised we had two parallel projects and other services, then get pieces of art from the museum and we decided to drop the advertisement part but to go full for- put them on display in their premises. 7>8N8A:G:CI6AH6C9G:E6>GH7>8N8A:G:CI6AH6C9G:E6>GH ward with the screen-tests,” says Olafur, and Libia concludes We advise people to go to Hafnarhúsið and see for that the uncertainty about the subject is ongoing. “We don’t themselves. If the exhibitions are journeys without a deter- deZc/bdc"[g^-"&-$hVi&%"&) have the image yet. We chose a group which is related partly mined destination a visitor can surely expect something VaalZZ`ViAVj\VgYVajg8Vbe^c\h^iZ through certain issues and ask them about journalism, ad- similar from the trip to the museum. vertisments, economical- and partly environmental issues,” she says and adds that building the image is a work in prog- =kZg[^h\ViV*%se]dcZ/**&*+*(
Licensing and registration of travel- EXPECT related services The Icelandic Tourist Board issues licences to tour operators and travel agents, as well as issuing registration to booking services and information centres. HANG Tour operators and travel agents are required to use a special logo approved by the Icelandic Tourist Board on all their advertisements and on their Internet OVERS... website. Booking services and information centres are entitled to use a Tourist Board logo on all their material. The logos below are recognised by the Icelandic Tourist Board.
THE BIGGEST CLUB IN List of licenced Tour DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. Operators and Travel Agencies on: LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. visiticeland.com WWW.NASA.IS 24 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008 destination
Akranes Sports Museum by James Crugnale — Photo by GAS
Akranes, located 48 km northeast of Reykjavik, offers one of Iceland’s most comprehensive mu- seums that will appeal to those with many varying interests. Getting there is half the fun. After a long adventurous slog through Iceland’s third longest tunnel, Hvalfjörður, you follow the viewpoint sign (the infographic is shaped like a cloverleaf) un- til you see the giant ship (Sigurfari, which is the only decked vessel preserved from former times in Iceland.) The museum offers several different sec- tions, including multiple museum-within-a-muse- ums like the folk museum (with artifacts left over from the cod wars), and many other colorful, di- verse exhibitions. Perhaps the most attention grabbing of these is the Iceland Sports Museum, built in 2002. If you wanted to discover every possible achieve- ment and contribution Iceland has made in sports, you’ve hit pay dirt. Vilhjálmur Einarsson’s Olympic silver medal from his historic triple jump in 1956 is included, as are his footprints measur- ing the approximate distance he sprawled in his momentous achievement. Other Olympic paraphernalia includes Vala Flosadóttir’s pole from the 2000 Olympics where she won the bronze and Bjarni Friðriksson’s judo suit from his bronze-winning effort in 1984. There is a special section dedicated to Jón Páll Sigmars- son with many of his trophies from the World’s Strongest Man competition and NBA player, Pétur Guðmundsson’s Los Angeles Lakers pre-game basketball outfit. Museum curator Jón Allansson is optimistic that he’ll be receiving items from this year’s silver-winning handball team soon. “We hope we’ll get something from them,” Allansson said.
Akranes Museum Centre Garðar, 300 Akranes www.museum.is
Open September 15 - May 14 13:00 - 17:00
A bicycle crushed by jón páll Sigmarsson, the strongest man in the world; may he rest in peace
GRÍMSEY
ÍSAFJÖRÐUR Air Iceland ÞÓRSHÖFN
VOPNAFJÖRÐUR AKUREYRI www.airiceland.is destinations EGILSSTAÐIR
CONSTABLE POINT Greenland KULUSUK Greenland NUUK Greenland Fly and discover NARSARSSUAQ Greenland REYKJAVÍK FAROE ISLANDS
Get your action-packed day tour brochure Air Iceland - Domestic flights / tel. 570 3030 WESTMAN ISLANDS SIA.IS FLU 43442 08.2008 at hotels, airports or any travel agent. ÍSLENSKA REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008 | 25
destination
Rounding up the Sheep
by Florian Zühlke — Photos by GAS
The Icelandic people have a strong, abiding con- nection with their farm animals. Though, admitted- ly, in everyday life in downtown Reykjavík, they've become a mere cliché – a stuffed animal for chil- dren or a novel cuisine found in national dishes like svið. But for generations past, sheep and hors- es both guaranteed income and survival for rural settlements. Every fall, this fact is celebrated when the urbanites flock to the country side to partake in traditional sheep herding! All over Iceland, sheep are led into the high- lands in the spring, where they can enjoy the ad- vantages of a life in nature for the summer: unlim- ited grass, freedom of movement and best of all, no people around to chase them. Before winter the sheep have to be on the farm again to save them from hypothermia or to be brought to slaughter- house. Either way, every year between September and October (depending on the region, they are earlier up North) small groups of young men are chosen to round up the sheep and bring them back to the lowland. The search is an adventure, which can last up to a week and during which the partici- pants get by on the backs of horses only accompa- nied by smoked lamb snacks, warm clothes, dirty jokes and some encouraging booze. The big social event is held the day the group is expected back with the herd. Originally, the farm- ers met to divvy up the returning sheep by their unique ear indentations. Nowadays, the homecom- ing of the sheep has become a popular tradition unique to Iceland. The whole community gathers at the herding place and passes the time waiting for the flock singing folk-songs, drinking and other forms of revelry. Kids have fun playing with the horses and sheep that have already arrived. In the evening there is often a great celebration with the requisite drinking and dancing, which concludes the festivities.
For info on round-up dates: www.bondi.is
GRÍMSEY
ÍSAFJÖRÐUR Air Iceland ÞÓRSHÖFN
VOPNAFJÖRÐUR AKUREYRI www.airiceland.is destinations EGILSSTAÐIR
CONSTABLE POINT Greenland KULUSUK Greenland NUUK Greenland Fly and discover NARSARSSUAQ Greenland REYKJAVÍK FAROE ISLANDS
Get your action-packed day tour brochure Air Iceland - Domestic flights / tel. 570 3030 WESTMAN ISLANDS SIA.IS FLU 43442 08.2008 at hotels, airports or any travel agent. ÍSLENSKA 26 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 15—2008 the list by Bergur ebbi benediktsson — PHOTOs BY GAS top activities on a Sunday afternoon
Númi Þorkell Thomasson is a 29-year Kolaportið old half-Icelandic, half- German cook. 1 This is the flea market where you can find anything from salted cod to the The cool kids also know him as the LP you’ve always been looking for. It’s even fun to be there if you don’t have drummer of the late legendary indie- any money. rock group Andhéri. After a few years living in Berlin, where he studied to A make-over and funky dance become a chef at the Kempinski Bristol 2 Have some artificial nails installed and do a silhouette dance in front of cam- Berlin Restaurant, Númi is back and is eras. At least that’s what I did last Sunday for my friends who are going to use about to open a new restaurant, Segur- this in some kind of dance-project. mo, at the Boston bar on Laugavegur. “The menu will be basic but delicious. Hang out with parents You will be able to choose from a dish 3 On Sundays it’s great to meet friends who have children. Just to hang out and of meat, fish and vegetables, but the chat and watch the children play. courses will change every week”, says Númi who, in addition to cooking the Esjan meals, also plans to stand in the door- 4 To take a hike up Mt. Esja is a good activity when you’ve been staying in way like a crazy Italian chef and wave Reykjavík for too long. Up there you can see the town in perspective. How to hungry bystanders and encourage small and insignificant it all is. them to step in. Númi has charm so it will probably pay off. To pick lovage 5 Sometimes I spend my Sunday afternoons sneaking into gardens to pick lovage, which I use as a spice for the authentic Icelandic meat soup. I only pick it where it is obviously not being used by anyone so I don’t consider it Númi Þorkell stealing. top Icelandic Writers
Tinna Gunnlaugsdóttir is the artistic Halldór Laxness director of the National Theatre of 1 He is more Icelandic than anything else, but his works deal with feelings relative Iceland. Before taking on that job she to all people and therefore he is without borders. worked as an actor on stage and in movies for 25 years. Tinna is now pro- Jón Kalman Stefánsson moting the winter schedule of the the- 2 In a way Jón Kalman is a logical and a modern continuation of Laxness, but he atre where she says the emphasis will also has elements of Scandinavian magic realism. be put on Icelandic pieces. “On the big stage we’ll have two big plays: Sum- Vigdís Grímsdóttir merlight, and then Comes the Night 3 She has insight that makes her creation palpable and true. which is based on the novel with the same name by Jón Kalman Stefánsson and Frida…viva la vida by Brynhildur Einar Már Guðmundsson Guðjónsdóttir” She also points out that 4 Einar Már is a sincere man of storytelling. this winter also holds a new piece by Sigurður Pálsson, one of Iceland’s most respected authors and a new produc- Kristín Marja Baldursdóttir tion of an Icelandic classic, Hart í bak, 5 I just feel that what she writes is interesting and exciting. from 1962. She also encourages people to check out an experimental produc- tion of Macbeth that will start this month. Tinna Gunnlaugsdóttir top Interesting Buildings in ReykjavÍk
Elís Pétursson is a 28-year old musi- The Music Hall cian from Reykjavík who, among other 1 When I walk down Bankastræti I sometimes imagine how cool this house things, plays bass with the pop-group will be when it’s finished. It will sprinkle the downtown of Reykjavik with a Jeff Who. The band is now on the verge metropolitan touch. At least it will be cooler than the Esso gas station and the of releasing its second album, which tire-shop that used to be there. I guess I will miss the Go-kart lap though. will follow up their popular debut from 2006. “It will hopefully be ready before Hallgrímskirkja the Iceland Airwaves Festival. We had 2 I grew up near this church and even though it’s going through some make- finished recording and then we decid- over today I’m always fond of it. I can’t imagine a Sunday without the chime ed to do some finesse changes,” says of the out-of-tune bells. Elís. He also implies that the overall sound of the new album will be a little Kópavogskirkja bit more sophisticated and a little less 3 I hope it’s OK to reach a little bit out of Reykjavík to the nearby Kópavogur. happy-go-lucky but without jeopardiz- I basically like the architecture of this structure. It’s neat because it is not ing the main task of being excellent trying too hard. pop. We look forward to hearing the album and can agree that its first sin- The Næpa gle, the excellent She’s Got the Touch, 4 I like the Icelandic name of this house “næpa” which means turnip. Instead sounds promising. of giving it a more grand name like “Kremlin” or “The Red Tower” we basi- cally thought it reminded us so much of a turnip we couldn’t resist.
The Old City Library at Þingholtsstræti 5 It’s a genuinely elegant house. It’s kind of hard to imagine that this used to be Elís Pétursson a library. It should host a specialised bar serving only whiskey and cognac.
Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland. Issue 15 — September 26 - October 9 2008 www.grapevine.is
Stuffed with stuff
Even though your commit- Proud ment to serving comfort Sponsors ≥ food to a starving public at ludicrous hours of the day is laudable – and even though a specific blend of your oily, September 25 greasy, oily garlic oil and sur- — October 5 prisingly spicy chilli powder 2008 will make just about anything taste pretty good – I still think Docs in
you need to re-think some of Focus∫ your strategies. The category focuses on the most interesting Haukur S Magnússon lovingly points out documentaries of the film industry today. some of Pizza King’s slight flaws . The diverse selection at this years festival is a Page 6 good reflection of the growth in documentary making in recent years. Viewers have realized that documentaries aren’t just informative but Here, along the liquid coast of also just as fun as other film art forms. the ocean, everything is flow- The film themes vary from the graffiti-artist’s struggle ing at the same speed as our for recognition to propaganda manufacturing in Turkmenistan. Some of these films,
blood: rolling waves, cause- like Indestructible, depict human tragedy ways of waterfalls and rain- in ∫ a powerful way. bows at the elements’ edges, Ticket info: sunny spotlights on the slopes riff.is of hills, climbing clouds and fog. The ocean reworks both the reflection and the reflected giving us the freedom not to change anything ourselves – and to fear no changes. Ivetta Gerasimchuk lyrically captures the Icelandic sprit Page 6
Laboratory Theatre is al- ways a challenge. Fuelled on a creative spirit and founded on buzzwords like ‘Organic’ ‘Fused’ and ‘Collaborative’, the European trend for time- based devised theatre has bred its way around the world. Stevie Ward deconstructs an experiment conducted by Kino Kabaret Page 39
All over Iceland, sheep are led into the highlands in the spring. There, they can enjoy all the advantages of a life in freedom for the summer: unlimited grass, freedom of movement and best of all, no people around to chase them. Encounters with feral sheep (or horses, which also run free) on your excursions happen quite often. Florian Zühlke cavorts with sheep and shep- herds on a traditional Réttir Page 45 With Support ≥ Music, Art, Films and Events Listings + Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map + Get Medieval at the Culture House · Haddaway at Nasa · Ben Frost Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland. Issue 15 2008 www.grapevine.is What: ID Lab at Reykjavik Art Museum (B5) B2 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 15 2008 Listings Music Dance-on-the-table, scream till you lose your voice
If you’re looking for a night of energetic, Indy rock band, Sudden Weather dance-on-the-table, scream-out-song- Change, was started in 2006 by former 1 F7 lyrics-till-you-lose-your-voice fun, try members of the now defunct System hitting up Kaffibarinn on October 2 Failure 3550 ERROR ERROR. Their What where three bands, Skátar, Sudden sound, that is at once soulful and en- Skátar, Sudden Weather Weather Change and Sykur will take the thusiastically dynamic, has given them Change & Sykur stage starting at 21:00. a dominating presence in the Reykjavik Where: Skátar, a band known for their commit- music scene. Kaffibarinn ment to DIY music production and lively Vibrantly electronic, Sykur’s new wave Bergstaðastræti 1 performances, are sure to pump up the beats will have you longing for you old 101 Reykjavík crowd and set the scene for an exciting Casio keyboard. These boys don’t just When: night. If you want to get a preview, stay home and play synthesizers, they Thursay October 2, 21:00 download their newest single Party Lin- also play them in public. Free Admission ers at grapewire.net.
Art Music Get Medieval at the Beat Box culture house &The Blues
The Culture House is featuring a stirring mult of Viking Expansion, the settlement Glaumbar is American-style sports bar, exhibition entitled Medieval Manuscripts of the Atlantic Islands and the period of brash and boisterous, with a huge video – Eddas and Sagas. This permanent Christianisation. screen showing matches, deafening showcase presents the principal medi- music, and weekend DJs. It has recently eval manuscripts including law codices Where: become the home of the Beat Box club and Christian works, and the legendary The Culture House, who collaborated with Glaumbar during Sagas of Icelanders. Other early scripts Hverfisgata 15 the prestigious Reykjavik Jazz Festival from centuries past are also on display. When: in August, filling every single seat and The ancient scrolls on display are some Daily from 11:00 - 17:00 spot to stand in Glaumbar for four of the rarest artefacts of the country’s Admission fee 300 ISK nights in a row past that provide written sources of Many of Iceland’s best musicians in the information on the society, religion and field have played in Glaumbar during world view of the people of Northern 2 F6 Beat Box nights, such as Tómas R. Ein- Europe from pagan times through the tu- arsson, Samúels Jóns Samúelsson Big Band, Moses Hightower, Dísa, Mama’s Bag, DJ Magic and many more. No wonder then that Blues Band B.Sig has been asked to bring their cool and mel- low rhythms and sensational melodies into our ears and hearts.
Where: B.Sig and more. Where: Glaumbar, Tryggvagata 20 When: October 9, 21:00
3 E5 B3 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 15 2008 Listings
If you would like to be included 23:00 DJ Hjalti’s a.k.a Casanova Q-Bar in the Grapevine listings, free of (house Music all night long). 21:00 Company B in concert. charge, contact the Grapevine by Glaumbar Rósenberg email at [email protected]. 23:00 DJ Lurkur. 21:00 Django Reinhardt (European Hressó Jazz that has to be heard) tribute 21:00 Live band Galaxia. band play tonight. 23:00 DJ Maggi. Kaffibarinn Music & 23:00 DJ Alfons X (Electro, House, THURSDAY OCT 2 Hip Hop). Entertainment Prikið Glaumbar 21:00 Reykjavík Grapevine and 22:00 Beat Box / Mama’s Bag FRIDAY Sept 26 RIFF throw a party to celebrate (Soul, R’n’B). the premiere of two musically Hressó Amsterdam oriented documentaries at the 22:00 Troubadours Jogvan and 23:00 DJ Master. Reykjavík International Film Vignir live. Apótek Festival. Kaffibarinn 23:00 DJ Áki. Oliver 22:00 Bands Skátar, Sudden Bar 11 23:30 DJ Brynjar Már. Weather Change and Sykur. 23:00 DJ Matti. Q-Bar Q-Bar Café Cultura 23:00 Lez Jungle Night with DJ 23:00 Sexual Chocolate. 23:00 DJ Sexy Lazer. Glimmer. Rósenberg Café Paris Rósenberg 21:00 Two Jazz Bands. 23:00 DJs Andri Ramirez and 21:30 Mood play blues and folk Vegamót Stjáni. rock tonight. 23:00 DJ Mr. Gorilla Funk. Glaumbar Sólon 23:00 DJ Valdi. 23:00 Downstairs: Party. Upstairs: Hressó Dancing. FRIDAY Oct 3 21:00 Menn Ársins (Pop / Rock). 23:00 DJ Maggi. Apótek Kaffibarinn SUNDAY Sept 28 23:00 Dance music with various 23:00 DJ Magic. DJs Oliver B5 Bar 11 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. Live music. 23:45 DJ Biggi in Maus. Prikið Prikið Glaumbar 21:30 Troubadours Franz and 21:00 Hangover Movie Night. 23:00 DJ Valdi. Kristó. Rósenberg Hressó Q-Bar 21:00 Halli and Davið play soft 21:00 Live Band Dalton. 21:00 DJ Yamaho. rock for y’all. 23:00 DJ Johnny. Rósenberg Kaffibarinn 22:00 Thin Jim and the Castaways 23:00 Karíus & Baktus (Santiago infused country). MONDAY SEPT 29 (Bloodgroup). Sólon NASA 23:00 Downstairs Party, upstairs Q-Bar 23:00 Haddaway. dance. 21:00 Horror Movie Night with Oliver The Iceland Symphony Orchestra free Popcorn. 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. 19:30 “Fire and Ice”. Sólon Q-Bar Vegamót 21:00 Salsa night. 23:00 Disco Night. 23:00 DJ Jónas. Rósenberg 21:00 Múlinn presents the first of Tuesday SEPT 30 many Jazz nights for the winter. SATURDAY SEPt 27 The Icelandic Symphony Oliver Orchestra Amsterdam 21:00 Live Music. 21:00 “Now Listen! Gamelan.” 22:00 Brain Police, Esja, Brant Q-Bar Vegamót Bjork and the Bros (CAL). 22:00 Live Music Night with Elín 23:45 DJ Simon. Admission 1500ISK. Ey & Myrra. Apótek Rósenberg 23:00 Dance music with various 22:00 Band: Memphis Mafia. SATURDAY oct 4 DJs. B5 Apótek 23:00 DJ Gulli from Ósóma cranks WEDNESDAY Oct 1 21:00 Dance music with various the beats. DJs. Café Cultura Kaffibarinn B5 23:00 Prince Liborious. 23:45 Oli in Wentems.
Music & Entertainment | Venue finder
22 Good for anyone look- Celtic Cross Highlander ing for a decent band, Rex Laugavegur 22 | G7 ing for a deal, there Hverfisgata 26 | H6 Lækjargata 10 | E7 chances are you’ll find Austurstræti | E5 A popular place are enough tables for Arguably the most If you prefer Scottish it at NASA. Rex is quite fancy among the city´s party everyone and TVs for authentic Irish pub to Irish, this might be Næsti Bar and you may feel out scenesters, this three sport | watching. outside Ireland, a very the place for a single Ingólfstræti 1A | F6 of place if you don’t storied bar makes for Bjarni Fel lively space where malt. On nights where dress up a bit. One of a great night out with Austurstræti 20 | E5 you’ll often find live Hressó queues snake down the more posh spots chatting upstairs and Named after the Ice- music, sometimes two Austurstræti 20 | E5 Laugavegur, Næsti Bar in town. dancing downstairs land’s most legendary bands playing at once. With a spacious can be great place to Rósenberg with regular DJs. sports commentator, Dillon neutral interior, pleas- sneak off to and chat Klapparstígur 25 | G7 Amsterdam this is the place for the Laugavegur 30 | H7 ant courtyard and a with friends over a Live music venue that Hafnarstræti 5 | E6 three Bs: ball, burger The quintessential varied lunch menu, beer. Frequented also has something to of- Kaffi Amsterdam and beer. rock pub Dillion serves Hressó attracts no by the literary and act- fer every single night, seems to have been Boston moderately priced specific type of crowd. ing elite. ranging from rock to around forever, though Laugavegur 28b | H6 drinks, and has pretty Tap beer and music Óliver jazz to poetry. You recently it’s been rein- A fresh addition to the good music, too. The makes a fair hangout Laugavegur 20A | H7 name it, they got it. vented as a live venue. Reykjavík bar scene. mix of students and on weekends. This nightclub attracts Sólon Good music, cheap Roomy bar floor, nice tattooed tough guys Hverfisbarinn a crowd of crazy danc- Bankastræti 7A | F5 beer, and colorful sofas and stylish inte- always creates a fun Hverfisgata 20 | G6 ers that may not be Truly a jack of all characters to be found. rior make this a comfy atmosphere. After a long line, you’ll for everyone. In which trades establishment. Apótek café as well as a tavern Dubliner get in and wonder case, air conditioning By night a decent res- Austurstræti 16 | E5 with good, unintrusive Hafnarstræti 4 | E5 what all the fuss was and fine food make taurant, by day a café/ Sporting a chic and music. The city’s main Irish about. You may end Oliver a good lunch bistro and on Friday pristine interior with Café Cultura pub attracts quite a lot up here if you’re still spot. and Saturday nights a a healthy club atmo- Hverfisgata 18 | G6 of foreigners, though going at 4 on a Sunday Ölstofan nightclub. Art exhibi- sphere. Cultura is a café/bar there´s an influx of morning, in which case Vegamótastígur | G6 tions on the walls to B5 with a party feel. The locals on weekends. it’s just as good as any. No tricks here. You’ll top it off. Bankastræti 5 | F6 menu features all sorts Good if you’re looking Kaffi Hljómalind want just simple beer Thorvaldsen By day a chic little of international dishes, for the darker stuff Laugavegur 23 | G6 in this simple pub. Austurstræti 8 | E5 bistro with good food alongside the staple on tap. This organic, free- Also the hangout for Dress formally for this and a prime loca- salad and sandwich. Glaumbar trade café prides itself Reykjavík intellectual fancy spot, and come tion for Laugavegur Café Paris Tryggvagata 20 | E4 not only on great food circles before 12 to avoid a people watching | Austurstræti 14 | E5 The premier sports bar and coffee but being a Prikið long line. DJs play by night a stylish bar With an outdoor ter- in town, though after strong cultural center, Bankastræti | F5 Thursdays, Fridays and with a “whiskey room” race, this café gets the final whistle, DJs hosting live music as Part of the Reykjavík Saturdays. and manhattanesque busy on sunny days. take the floor and be- well as lectures and bar scene for decades, Vegamót clientele. With a cosy interior, gin a night of feverish poetry nights. this café/bar has a Vegamótastígur 4 | G6 Bar 11 fine menu and atten- dancing. Kaffibarinn fairly cheap menu and Vegamót´s kitchen is Laugavegur 11 | G6 tive service, it makes a Grand Rokk Bergstraðastræti 1 | F6 attracts a mix of stu- open until 22.00 daily The sweatiest Rock fine spot for evening Smiðjustígur | G6 A popular place to dents and old regulars. and sports an appeal- joint on the northern dining as well. As its Viking theme ac- grab a drink after work, R&B and Hip-Hop ing lunch menu. Come hemisphere. Mötley Café Victor curately displays, this this daytime coffee plays on weekends. for a tasty brunch on Crüe would have Hafnarstræti 1-3| D4 hardcore chess hang- joint roils with night- Q-Bar weekends. If you like played this bar 25 Victor attracts a di- out is no place for the time activity on week- Ingólfstræti 3 | F6 Óliver, try Vegamót years ago and still be verse crowd, both in lily livered. Take the ends with live DJs. A roomy gay/straight and vice versa. The talking about it. age and origin, a rule pub quiz on Fridays at Parties often pound bar. Some of the party goes on late. Belly´s that extends to the 17.30, the winner gets until dawn. best DJs in town play Hafnarstræti 18a | E5 musicians that play a free case of beer! NASA regularly, making it an Belly´s deserves praise there. Þorvaldsenstræti 2| E6 especially lively space for having the cheap- The main live venue in on weekends. est bar prices around. town. If you are look- B4 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 15 2008 Listings
Dwarf Gallery WEDNESDAY oct 8 on view in the Library Room is 20:00 Bacon Live Support Unit in dedicated to Helgi Hálfdanarson’s translations and original writings. Concert Kaffibarinn The Late View – Halldór Laxness’ Glaumbar 23:00 Bedroom Community Photographs 23:00 DJ Atli Skemmtanalögga. #4. Ben Frost feat. Borgar Nobel Laureate and cosmopolitan Hressó Magnússon. Halldór Laxness was better known 21:00 Live music. Rósenberg for his writing but also proved to 23:00 DJ Maggi. 21:00 Live Jazz. Kaffibarinn be a good photographer. This is 23:00 Long Saturday - DJ Magic & an exhibition of his works. Alfons X. THURSDAY oct 9 Exhibition Series Kaffi Hljómalind Ásta Ólafsdóttir displays her 18:00 Die Young (Hardcore, TX), artwork at the Culture Shop. Glaumbar Gavin Portland + guest. Dwarf Gallery 23:00 Bít Box / B.Sig / Rock ’n’ Nasa Oct 3 - Oct 6 Soul. 22:45 Týr (Folk-Metal from This is a Circle: An exhibition by Hressó Runavík). Natalija Ribovic & Toru Fujita in 21:00 Troubadours Jogvan & Oliver memory of Úlfur Chaka Karlsson Vignir live. 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. The Einar Jónsson Museum Nasa Q-Bar Permanent exhibition: 21:00 Motion Boys release 23:00 Party Zone Night with The work of sculptor Einar concert. Multiple DJs. Jónsson. Rósenberg Rósenberg Fótógrafí 21:00 Múlinn Jazz Company 22:00 Misery loves Company (Tom A new exhibition opens present another 3 days off live Waits Cover Band). monthly with works of various jazz. Sólon photographers The Icelandic Symphony 23:00 Downstairs: Party. Upstairs: Gallery 100° Orchestra Dance. Oct - Nov 19:30 A Gypsy Gala. Vegamót Leonardo Da Vinci. An exhibition Vegamót 22:00 Hannes & Dóri. of Da Vinci’s drawings and 23:00 DJ Hannes. machines. Gallery Ágúst SUNDAY oct 5 Aug 16 – Sept 27 Exhibition by Katrín Elvarsdóttir Prikið Art Oct 4 - Nov 1 Exhibition: IN VISIBLE INK 21:00 Hang-Over Cinema. 101 Gallery Gallery Fold Popcorn and Coke available. Aug 22 – Oct 5 Current exhibition: Gallery Fold’s Rósenberg ZEÐRIK - Instalments by Sigga summer exhibition. Paintings 23:00 Andrea Glyfa. Björg Sigurðardóttir by Ásgrímur Jónsson, Jón Artótek Stefánsson, Jóhannes S. Kjarval, Sept 11 - Oct 19 Finnur Jónsson, Þorvaldur Monday oct 6 Exhibition by Ólöf Björg Skúlason, Jóhann Briem and Nína ASÍ Art Museum Tryggvadótti Q-Bar Sept 27- Oct 19 Gallery Kling & Bang 21:00 Horror Movie Night with Haraldur Jónsson – Myrkurlampi. Sept 9 – Sept 28 NEW WEBPAGE! free Popcorn. An Exhibition that is both “a state The Orange Fire that you showed Sólon of mind and an extension to ones me in Hljómskálagarðurinn 21:00 Salsa Night. body”. Exhibition by Ásdís Sif ARMY.IS Rósenberg The Culture House Gunnarsdóttir 23:00 Two troubadours play live. Permanent exhibitions: Oct 04 – Oct 24 Medieval Manuscripts; The WANTS YOU! Sequences / Trommusólo / Drum Library Room. The Icelandic Army shop solo Trommusólo / Drumsolo Tuesday oct 7 Current exhibitions: Gallery StartArt at kolaportið fleamarket Surtsey – Genesis Sept 25 – Oct 29 Oliver The exhibition traces the Six exhibitions by Ragnhildur 21:00 Live music. emergence and evolution of the Stefánsdóttir, Kristín Reynisdóttir, Q-Bar island Surtsey until the present Björn Birnir, Björn Valdimarsson, Living Museum by the Sea 21:00 Live Music with Ellín Ey and day and predicts its geographical Gréta S. Guðjónsdóttir, Kristveig Myrra. and ecological development over Halldórsdóttir, Ása Ólafsdóttir and Rósenberg the next 120 years. Þórdís Alda Sigurðardóttir 13:00 Live Troubadour Girls and From Beyond the Oceans – Gallery Turpentine Poetry (1 pm to 1 am). Translations and original writings Sept 12 - Oct 5 by Helgi Hálfdanarson Home: A solo exhibition of The thematic exhibition currently Víkin the works of visual artist Birta Reykjavik Art | Venue finder 101 Gallery Gallery Dwarf hosts Wed–Sat 12–17 Hitt Húsið The National Gallery Reykjavík Art Maritime Museum Hverfisgata 18A | F6 exhibitions which www.galleriagust.is – Gallery Tukt of Iceland Museum Thu–Sat 14–17 and by speak straight to the Gallerí Ágúst is a Pósthússtræti 3-5 Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | E8 Open daily 10–16 appointment hearts of the “cute” contemporary art | E6 Tue–Sun 11–17 www.listasafnreykja- www.101hotel. generation. gallery in the centre www.hitthusid.is www.listasafn.is vikur.is is/101hotel/101gallery/ The Einar Jónsson of Reykjavík. With an Initially thought of Houses the national Ásmundur Sveinsson Located in the 101 Museum ambitious programme as a hobby centre to art collection and is Sculpture Museum of exhibitions, it also Hotel, features a Eiriksgata | G9 keep the youth from the centre of research Sigtún broad selection of Tue–Sun 14–17 presents and sells art- drinking, Hitt húsið is and documentation of Hafnarhús international and local www.skulptur.is work of Icelandic and still operational and Icelandic art. Tryggvagata 17 | E5 Open daily from 11am to 5pm international artists. contemporary art. Features a permanent organises events as The National Kjarvalsstaðir Closed Mondays Artótek exhibition on the Gallery Fold well as hosting art Museum Flókagata | K11 exhibitions in their Gal- Specialising in Tryggvagata 15 | D5 sculptor Einar Jónsson Rauðarástígur 14-16 Suðurgata 41 | C9 Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu as well as temporary | J9 lery – Gallery Tukt. Open daily 10–17 contemporary art by Víkin 10–19, Fri 11–19, Sat exhibits. Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat i8 Gallery natmus.is/ local and international artists. Free entrance. Grandagarði 8 - 101 Reykjavík and Sun 13–17 Fótógrafí 11–16 / Sun 14–16 Klapparstígur 33 | G7 Established in 1863, Tel: 517 9400 www.sjominjasafn.is www.sim.is/Index/ Skólavörðustígur 4a www.myndlist.is Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat this museum features Reykjavík City More of an art auction Islenska/Artotek | F7 13–17 and by appoint- exhibits on Icelandic Theatre An Icelandic art www.fotografi.is than just a gallery, Fold ment. www.i8.is cultural heritage. Listabraut 3 also evaluates and exhibition space and Features photographic Represents work by an The Nordic House Presenting Icelandic art dealer. Pieces are exhibits art. eclectic mix of Icelan- music and dance exhibitions by local Sturlugata 5 | C11 available for purchase photographers. Gallery Kling & Bang dic and international Tue–Sun 12–17 performances as well or lease. contemporary artists. as dramatic theatre, Gallery 100° Hverfisgata 42 | G7 www.nordice.is/ ASÍ Art Museum Thurs–Sun from 14–18 Living Art Museum Explores and promotes produces six new Bæjarháls 1 shows each year. Freyugata 41 | G10 www.or.is/Forsida/Gal- this.is/klingogbang/ Vatnsstígur 3 – G7 Scandinavian culture Tue–Sun 13–17 lery100/ Exhibits upcoming Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / with regular lectures, Reykjavík Maritime Run by the ASÍ labour Open weekdays from and established Thu 13–22. www.nylo.is films and exhibitions. Museum contemporary artists union, features mostly 08:30–16:00 A non-profit gallery The Numismatic Grandagarður 8 | C3 as well as hosting contemporary Icelan- An art museum run that organises 8–10 Museum With a fishing trawler- dic art. Free entry. screenings, lectures larger exhibitions every turned-exhibit space, by the Orkuveita Einholt 4 | K9 and performances. Árbæjarsafn Reykjavíkur energy year as well as other Open Mon–Fri educates on the Kistuhylur 4 corporation. Features Gallery Turpentine cultural events. 13:30–15:30. maritime and fishing An open-air museum contemporary art by Ingólfstræti 5 | F7 Lost Horse Gallery Presents a cultural his- traditions of Iceland. featuring arts-and- Icelandic and foreign Tue–Fri 12–18 / Sat Skólastræti 1 | F6 tory of Iceland through Reykjavík Museum crafts fairs and exhibi- artists. 11–16 Weekends from 13–19 analysis of collected of Photography tions in the summer. Gallery Auga fyrir www.turpentine.is and by appointment on coins, medals and Tryggvagata 16 | D5 Houses a collection of The Culture House Auga weekdays. books. Weekdays 12–19 / Icelandic contempo- Located in a renovated Sat–Sun 13–17 Hverfisgata 15 | F6 Hverfisgata 35 | G7 Reykjavík 871+/-2 rary artwork as well stable off Laugavegur, www.ljosmyndasafn- Open daily 11–17 Independently run Aðalstræti 17 | D6 as works from old www.thjodmenning.is art museum featuring features work by local Open daily 10–17 reykjavikur.is Icelandic masters both A Museum of Icelandic Icelandic art. artists. Museum on the Features work by for display and sale. local and international cultural history, with Gallery StartArt The National Film founding of Reykjavík. Gerðuberg Cultural photographers, as well an ongoing exhibition Laugavegur 12B | G7 Archive Located in the oldest of the original manu- Centre Hvaleyrarbraut 13 house in the city. Tours as an archive on the Tue–Sat 1–17 history of photography. scripts of the sagas www.startart.is Gerðuberg 3-5 www.kvikmyndasafn.is in English on Mondays and eddas. Contemporary Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed The National Film and Saturdays at 14.00 Sigurjón Ólafsson 11–21 / Thu–Fri 11–17 Dwarf Gallery Icelandic and foreign Archive of Iceland Reykjavík Art Gallery Museum / Sat–Sun 13–16 screens old movie Laugarnestangi 70 Grundarstígur 21 | H8 art. Admission is free Skúlagata 28 | H6 www.gerduberg.is Opening Hours: Fri and the gallery is run classics and master- Tuesday through Features a permanent Located in Breiðholt, and Sat 18–20 without any govern- pieces twice a week for Sunday 14–18 exhibition of sculptor the Gerðuberg cultural www.this.is/birta ment funding. 500 ISK per ticket. The city’s public art Sigurjón Ólafsson’s centre hosts both exhi- An independently gallery features works works. Gallery Ágúst bitions and events. run basement Gallery, Baldursgata 12 | F9 by Icelandic artists. B5 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 15 2008 Listings Music Faroese Viking Metal Our quality... Honoring the gods
Faroe Islands-based Týr, one of the bands like Amon Amarth or Die Apo- What: most popular modern Viking-metal kalyptischen Reiter, Týr got to play the Týr Releases bands, is coming to NASA. The group legendary Wacken festival in Germany Where & When: was founded in 1998 by long-time fri- in 2007. Paddy’s, Keflavík ends Heri Joensen (guitar, vocals) and Currently, the four are on tour again to on Thursday, October 2, 20:30. Kári Streymoy (drums). promote their new album, “Land,” which Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri Since then, their mixture of true heavy was just released this summer. on Friday, October 3, 21:00. metal and traditional Scandinavian Nasa, Reykjavík folk-songs has had an impressive on Saturday, October 4, 21:00. impact on the international metal scene. 4 F6 Hellirinn, Reykjavík After touring Europe several times with on Sunday, October 5, 18:00.
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Upcoming Releases: Retro Stefson - Montaña (october) - Reykjavík! Art untitled second album (november) ID LAB - The Reykjavik Art Museum is premier- appear in the exhibit. Her multime- Upcoming Distribution: ing a new art instillation called ID LAB dia artwork has been described as starting September 27 and running “supernatural, organic and dreamlike,” Skakkamanage through January 11. The exhibition will combining the literary traditions of All over the face (october 20th) use fashion and design to illustrate and Iceland with a modern style. Hrafnhildur explore the societal artifice of identity Arnardóttir, Huginn Þór Arason, and FM Belfast - and the social zeitgeist of our time. By Jón Sæmundur Auðarson will also have How to make friends (october) using striking concepts that manifest in worked displayed. the traditional as well as the contem- porary, the instillation hopes to present What: ideas that stretch far beyond their Exhibition Opening external influences. Where: The exhibition presents works by a Reykjavík Art Museum Check out our Webstore... range of Icelandic artists including the When: three-person team of Icelandic Love 27 September – January 11 Corporation who describes their work as being “fueled by champagne, a natu- www.kimirecords.net ral capacity for mayhem and a devout 5 E5 respect for Dolly Parton.” kimirecords Katrín Ólína Pétursdóttir’s work will also Big helpings at lower prices B6 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 15 2008 Listings
Guðjónsdóttira The Numismatic Museum Gerðasafn Permanent exhibition: Oct 4 - Nov 16 The Central Bank of Iceland and Ecuadorian Cultural Festival the National Museum of Iceland Gerðuberg Cultural Centre jointly operate a numismatic Sept 12 – Nov 2 collection consisting of Icelandic Mola. An exhibition of knitting art notes and coins. by Colombian Indian tribe Cuna. Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 Sept 21 – Nov 2 Permanent exhibition: www.victor.is Video Art exhibition. The Settlement Exhibition Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum Reykjavík Art Gallery Gljúfrasteinn was the home and Current exhibition: workplace of Halldór Laxness Magnús Tómasson, Pétur Már (winner of the Nobel Prize for Pétursson and Tolli Literature in 1955) and his family Reykjavík Art Museum Hafnarstræti 1-3 for more than half a century. It has – Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture 101 Reykjavík now been opened to the public as Museum a museum, unchanged from when Permanent Exhibition tel: 561 9555 Laxness lived there. The Shape of Line i8 Gallery A new retrospective of works Sept 12 - Oct 26 by Ásmundur Sveinsson. The Pleinairism: An exhibition of works exhibition focuses on abstract by; Francis Alys, AA Bronson, works from 1945 onwards. Paul Chan, Tacita Dean and many Reykjavík Art Museum many more. – Hafnarhús Living Art Museum Sept 18 – Nov 2 Aug 16 – Sept 29 Everybody is Doing What They Tillit – rúcksicht – regards Can: Exhibition by Hlynur Hallson Libia Castro and Ólafur Ólafsson. ey survived a night at Paddy’s...... Can you? Sept 9 - Oct 18 The two artists have worked Grassroot 2008-Björk together since the late 1990s, Viggósdóttir-Guðmundur Vignir building up a strong body of Karlsson-Halldór Ragnarsson- work which focuses on social Jeanette Castroni-Jóna Hlíf issues and the sharing of life Halldórsdóttir experiences. Their work has a Oct 11 - Oct 22 strong political core and gives Bj Nielsen-Darri Lorenzen- voice to people on the margins of Finnbogi Pétursson-Ingólfur our society, migrants and asylum Arnrasson-Mika Vanio-Bjorn seekers. Quiring Sept 18 – Jan 11 The National Film Archive of Parallel Universes Iceland A private Exhibition by Ingibjörg The National Film Archive of Jónsdóttir Iceland screens old movie classics Sept 27 - Jan 11 and masterpieces twice a week Imaginary Friends: for 500 ISK per ticket. Exhibition by Hrafnhildur The National Gallery of Iceland Arnardóttir July 10 – Sept 28 Reykjavík Art Museum Exhibition: Highlight of Icelandic – Kjarvalsstaðir Art 18 May – 31 Aug At the annual summer exhibition Dreams of the Sublime and at the National Gallery of Nowhere in Contemporary Iceland the emphasis is on Icelandic Art: different periods in modern and This exhibition includes many Paddy’s Irish Pub ✳ Hafnargata 38, Reykjanesbær ✳ phone: 421-8900 ✳ www.myspace.com/paddysforever contemporary Icelandic art. Each new works of photography part of the exhibition focuses on a and video art by Iceland’s most certain period in the short history outstanding artists, building on of Icelandic art since it was first their disparate ideas about nature recognised as a profession, and as a phenomenon. various aspects of development in 18 May – 31 Aug the kitchen is open again art are explored in light Where Am I?: An exhibition in lunch - brunch - dinner - drinks of social change- Ongoing which children and adults can Sept 25 - Oct 5 contemplate their planet, their An Exhibition by Iranian artist country, and the landmarks of Shirin Neshat who has for their environment. decades been in the forefront of 18 May – 31 Dec artists who use video to express Jóhannes S. Kjarval – Key her particular criticism of Iranian Works: The current exhibition society. The prohibition of women in Kjarvalsstaðir’s east gallery singing publically, or the fact that features key works from the mentally ill women do not have museum’s collection along to veil their hair are examples with works on loan from the of her keen eye for curiosities Labour Unions’ Art Gallery and concerning reigning political from the collection of Ingibjörg system, which she reproaches for Guðmundsdóttir and Þorvaldur its ambiguous position in terms of Guðmundsson. sexual discrimination. 13 Sept – 16 Nov BOSTON Oct 11 - Dec 2 Visual Symphony – The Art of Love at First Sight: Modern and Bragi Ásgeirsson for 60 Years RESTAURANT - BAR temporary art from the Würth Reykjavík Maritime Museum LAUGAVEGUR 28B-2nd floor collection Current Exhibitions: The private collection of the Living Museum by the Sea; tel. 517 7816 German industrialist Reinhold Arterial for Country and City; open 12-01 weekdays 12-03 weekends Würth has grown enormously From Poverty to Abundance; The during the last decades. It is Shark – Light and Life Energy; now considered one of the Hidden Craftsman. largest private collections in Reykjavík Museum Europe in terms of modern and (Árbæjarsafn) contemporary art. The exhibition Current exhibitions: displays the recent acquisitions Building Techniques in Reykjavík from this important private 1840-1940; Disco and Punk – collections, where Impressionist Different cultures?; Christmas is works to contemporary German Coming; History of Reykjavík – and international art will be on from farm to city; Memories of a display. House; Living and Playing The National Museum The Reykjavík Museum of Permanent exhibition: Photography The Making of a Nation Sept 13 - Nov 23 June 6 – Jan 21 Home/Away Photography Over the Ocean and Home: Exhibition: An exhibition Icelandic artefacts from Sweden. documenting over 50 years Sept 27 - Nov 30 of asylum seekers in Iceland, The Nation, the Country and charting back to 1956. the Republic: Exhibition of the Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum works of photographer Vigfús Permanent exhibition: Sigurgeirsson, both photos and Works of sculptor Sigurjón videos from between 1928 and Ólafsson. 1958. Sept 28 - Oct 12 Prjónaheimur Lúka: Twin sisters OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK Gunnhildur and Brynhildur exhibit a collection of hand knitted For more information about art design clothing. outside Reykjavík visit grapevine.is B7 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 15 2008 Listasafn Reykjavíkur Listings Reykjavik Art Museum Music HADDAWAY AT NASA
The NO LIMITS Night- a mecca for new song in co-operation with Dr.Alban music and fashion of the 90s, has been called ‘I love the 90s’, Haddaway will be ‘The Church of Solid Hits’ in Iceland handing the night over to ‘musical cow- for the last two years. The 90’s dress boy DJs’ Curver and Kiki-ow who keep code and prominent back-catalogue of up the fun with non-stop 90s music for dance, trance and popular hits insures the remainder of the night. If you want that the nights are a huge success. The to ‘jump around’ with ‘no limits’ the growing trend in Icelandic clublife, No night is unmissable. Limits parties have dominated Icelandic Hafnarhús New-Year’s eve with many people com- What: Ingibjörg Jónsdóttir ing from all over the country to worship Haddaway Kjarvalsstaðir Parallel Universes at the altar of nostalgia-now they will When: Bragi Ásgeirsson 18 September 2008 – 11 January 2009 finally have their preacher. Friday, October 3 Visual Symphony ‘What is love? ‘Well I’ll tell you. 90’s Leg- Where: 13 September – 16 November end Haddaway exploded in 1993 with NASA, Thorvaldsenstræti 2 the song which stayed in the charts for 52 weeks selling over 8 million records. Reykjavik Art Museum The song is without a doubt one of the 4 E6 biggest 90s hits and played a big roll in the 1998 movie ‘Night at the Roxbury’ directed by John Fortenberry. Perform- ing their greatest hits and showcasing a
Hafnarhús Ólafur Ólafsson & Libia Castro Everybody is Doing What They Can Ásmundarsafn 18 September - 2 November Water Carrier 22 August – 31 December Watercolours by eleven artists
Hafnarhús Kjarvalsstaðir Ásmundur Sveinsson Free admission. Tryggvagata 17 daily 10–17 Flókagata, daily 10–17 Sculpture Museum, Thursdays to 22 Sigtún, 1.5.–30.9. daily 10–16 1.10.–30.4. daily 13–16
www.artmuseum.is [email protected] T +354 590 1200 F +354 590 1201
Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, You save at the pink stations Hveragerði, Reykjavík, Ísafjörður Akranes, Hafnarfjörður, Súðavík Music Njarðvík, Sandgerði, Akureyri Egilsstaðir A Rhythm Raver Kópavogur, Neskaupstaður, Neskaupstaður Stykkishólmur Grundarfjörður This new phenomenon of throwing live do next. So, this October 2 he will make Grundarfjörður, Hreðavatnsskáli concerts at the narrow and raunchy another appearance at the before- Akranes Hveragerði Kaffibarinn has in the last few months mentioned bar, accompanied by Borgar Stykkishólmur, Súðavík, Reykjavík Sandgerði Selfoss Njarðvík turned out to be quite a success. One Magnússon and whatever they’ll be Ísafjörður, Vík í Mýrdal Hafnarfjörður can of course see the perfectly proper up to, expect bottles falling out of the shelves and spatters of beer filling up image of sweaty and well-oiled rockers and Hreðavatnsskáli have Vík going hand in hand with the hard drink- the air due to their extremely dynamic The Orkan network is growing steadily, offering more savings ing regulars at the infamous bar, but bass. more than just stunning throughout Iceland. Keep an eye out for the Orkan petrol stations and this spring when Ben Frost performed take advantage of our lower prices. in a completely packed Kaffibar it was What: nature and beautiful obvious that his kind of acts are just as Ben Frost 1 F7 people in common! appropriate. The Australian-Icelandic When: www.orkan.is musician Ben Frost has researched the October 2, 21:00 DYNAMO REYKJAVIK whole electro spectrum in his works but Where: you can never guess what he’s going Kaffibarinn >XZaVcY^X 6gi ÆÆÆ I]Z:hhZcXZ d[VCVi^dc
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GVjVg{ghi\jg&)!cZVg=aZbbjgWjhhiVi^dc!iZa#**&%)%% @g^c\aVcH]dee^c\BVaa!iZa#*+-%)%%Ælll#bncYa^hi#^h Useful Numbers A B C D E F Emergency number: 112 Police: 444 1000 Medical help: 1770 Dental emergency: 575 0505 AA: 551 2010 1 Your Information: 118 Telegrams: 146 Ad Tax Free Refund ð Iceland Refund, Fiskisló A›alstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 www.is.eurorefund.com Here! 2 Opening Hours Grandagarður Bars and clubs: According to regula- tions bars may be open until 01:00 on weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. Contact our sales Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun representative closed. The shopping centres Kringlan The Old Harbour at 540 3600 and Smáralind as well as most super- 3 markets and tourist shops have longer Ánanaust M opening hours. ýra rgat Swimming pools: a weekdays 06:30-22:30, weekends 08:00- Nýlenduga 20:30 although some may be open an ta hour longer. svegur 4 amne The State owned ÁTVR liquor stores: Fr Ránargat Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat 11-18. Vesturgat a Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri Bárugat a Geirsgata
09-16. a a Tourist Information Öldugat gisgat Bræðraborgarstígur a Icelandic Travel Market Æ Tryggvag Bankastræti 2, Tel: 522 4979, 5 3 Tourist Information Centre rðastræti 5 at a a A›alstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, G H Skú Sæbrau Túngat afnars www.visitreykjavik.is a Austurst træti lagat t Both tourist infos offer information for ræti Lindargat a tourists as well as providing internet a 4 a access, booking service, a phone centre, Ban kastræt 2 Sæbraut money exchange service, tax refund and 6 Hver ígur selling the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The i fisgat Hofsvallagat Sólvallagat i a Reykjavík Tourist Card gives admission i ækjargata a L lapparst to city busses, various museums, Reyk- sstræt K ta javík swimming pools, The Family Park i L 1 augavegur tnsstígur Hringbraut rga gholt and Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture House Va ún n Ingólfsstræt Borgart Þi and the National and University Library. arstræt Suðu ð rnargata H a ta Sk ver Getting Around 7 Tj ólavör fisgat a Public Transport Bergs ð tígur The only public transport system in L us City Pond aufásvegur tígur Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run ev- Skúlagat tún rkjuvegur a rakkas La ery 20 minutes and price per fare is 280 íki F ugavegur a r Nó F ISK for adults and 100 ISK for children. Óðinsgata ígur st Grettisg Complete route map at: www.bus.is. Tel: ta ata 540 2700 Vi 8 Njálsga Hátún Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on week- a t Snorrabraut days and 10:00-24:00 on weekends kimelur a Bir Bergþórugat Barónsstígur Taxi Baldursgat a Laugavegur Hreyfill-Bæjarlei›ir, Sóleyjargata a a Brautarholt Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 Bragagat BSR, Tel: 561 0000 Njarðargat
9 uðarárstígur For disabled travellers: Skipholt Reykjavík Group Travel Service, ta r Ra Skipholt Bergst Brunasta›ir 3, Tel: 587 8030, rga Eiríksgata www.randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_ Barónsstígu tún Hljómskáli aðarstræti a travel_service/ Suðu Hringbrau Park Nó L Airlines aufásvegur t t Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, 10 Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is Háteigsv Snorrabraut egur Air Vestmannaeyjar, unnarsbrau Tel: 481 3255, www.eyjaflug.is G Bus Terminal Flókagat Vat rstígur BSÍ, Vatnsm‡rarvegur 10, nsmýrarvegur a
Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is Gamla Hringbraut uðará ta Flybus 11 Ra Busses run daily from the BSÍ Bus Terminal to Keflavík International Njarðarga Miklatún
Airport in connection with all departing íð flights. Departures daily from 04:45 to Bus terminal Hringbra
15:00/16:30 (every 15 - 60 minutes). For ut ngahl La Ból Flybus time schedule see: staðarhlí L]Vi»h[dg Mi www.flybus.is klabr ð 12 aut Y^ccZgidc^\]i4 Samferda.net glumýrarbraut in A reasonable choice for the budget Kr traveller. You log on to the website www. samferda.net, choose your destination and hopefully find a travel buddy to share the cost. 13 AVj\VkZ\jg**WqIZa (*)**&&*&& DeZc&&/%%"''/%% Domestic Airport G H I J K L M N
Reykjavík What’s this Ask for a Tax Free ð Center thing? 1 form & save up to 15% Fiskisló City Map These things are pretty useful, check it out: Every venue that’s mentioned in our Grandagarður info section gets a little marker like this, which will help you locate it on our map. Say you want to try out “Lystin” after reading our review - no problem, sir, just look up the corresponding icon on the The Old Harbour map!
Ánanaust M ýra rgat a Nýlenduga ta svegur amne Fr Ránargat Vesturgat a Bárugat a Geirsgata a a Öldugat gisgat Bræðraborgarstígur a Æ Tryggvag rðastræti at a a G H Skú Sæbrau Túngat afnars a Austurst træti lagat t ræti Lindargat a a a Ban 2 Sæbraut kastræt Hver i fisgat Hofsvallagat Sólvallagat i i a
ækjargata a L lapparstígur sstræt K ta i L 1 augavegur tnsstígur Hringbraut rga gholt Va ún n Ingólfsstræt Borgart Þi arstræt Suðu ð rnargata H a ta Sk ver Tj ólavör fisgat a Bergs
ð tígur L us 7 City Pond aufásvegur tígur Skúlagat tún rkjuvegur a rakkas La íki F ugavegur a r Nó F Óðinsgata ígur st Grettisg ta a Vi ta Njálsga Hátún a kimelur ta Snorrabraut Bir Bergþórugat Barónsstígur Baldursgat a Laugavegur Sóleyjargata a a Brautarholt
Bragagat Njarðargat
uðarárstígur Skipholt ta r Ra Skipholt rga Bergst Eiríksgata Barónsstígu tún Suðu Hringbrau Hljómskáli aðarstræti a Park Nó L aufásvegur t t Háteigsv Snorrabraut egur unnarsbrau G
gur Flókagat Va tnsmýrarvegur árstí a
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Domestic Airport
THE ORIGINAL TASTE
INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE AUSTURSTRÆTI - 4 Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is B10 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 15 2008 Eating
Food 19. hæðin
Reviewed by Sveinn Birkir — Photo by GAS
Nineteen floors up in the air is high Opening with sea-food soup and a va- Where: enough so that you have to pop your riety of salads, my trusted photographer Smáratorg 3 ears on the elevator trip down again. and myself quickly moved on to a more Kópavogur You should try it sometime. The lunch breakfast based combo of bacon and Tel.: 575 7500 restaurant 19. hæðin, located on the 19th eggs, followed by syrup laced pancakes floor of the Smáratorg tower obviously, and juice. We then decided to sample the 6 is likely to affect other senses just as luscious steaks on offer. The lamb proved much. to be better than the veal, but both were How much: Let’s begin with the eyes. 19 floors up in excellent. Although overstuffed like 2500 – 3000 ISK the air, this place is as much a visual feast Thanksgiving turkeys, we managed to as a culinary one. The view stretches far make our way to the dessert table where What we think: and wide and on a clear day you’ll be a selection of fruits, cream, cakes and Great and surprisingly pretty impressed. But the view is hardly custard awaited. With some hesitation I affordable weekend brunch. enough to drag you into a restaurant. decided to risk a little custard pudding Especially one that is not open for din- and some chocolate cake to go with the ner. That would most likely be the taste paper-thin crème brûlée, which mostly buds. And again, 19. hæðin delivers. On consisted of the sugary crust that is the weekdays, the restaurant offers a blend sole reason crème brûlées exist in the of hot and cold dishes in a buffet man- first place. ner that will satisfy most occasions. On With our stomach walls about to split weekends, however, the staff pull out all open, we hightailed out of there before the stops to create an exquisite brunch doing ourselves any more damage. collection that will keep you sated well into next week, for a very modest 2650 ISK a head.
we bring the o to sush
Osushi Lækjargata 2a Og Borgartún 29 I Sími : 561 0562
Food & Drink | Venue finder
3 Frakkar gars make an excellent the best hot dog stand both in age and origin, parstígur. Offers an named sandwiches Baldursgata 14 | F9 choice in fine dining. in Europe. Don’t be a rule that extends to ever-changing menu with equally imagina- A seriously Icelandic Austurlanda- intimidated by the the musicians that play of specials and soup tive contents. Good for atmosphere and tradi- hraðlestin perpetual line in front there. du jours, alongside a an adventurous bite. tional Icelandic dishes Hverfisgata 64A | H7 – an absolute must and Domo basic menu Hornið prepared in the good Though a bit expensive worth the wait. Þingholtsstræti 5 | F7 Grái Kötturinn Hafnarstræti 15 | E6 old-fashioned way. for take-away, it is well Café Cultura The elegantly deco- Hverfisgata 16A | G7 Since 1979, this Italian RSVP and keep your worth it for a spicy bite Hverfisgata 18 | G6 rated Domo serves Legendary for its early restaurant has been ears pricked for wild of this Indian cuisine. Cultura is a café/bar delicious French-Asian opening ours, the Gray a longtime Reykjavík whaling tales! A few tables to the with a party feel. The cuisine, excellent sushi Cat serves amazing staple. Famous for its Af lífi og sál side for those who menu features all sorts and has a great wine breakfasts and coffee pizza and stuffed cal- Restaurant choose to dine in. of international dishes, list. A sure choice. that packs a wallop. A zones, it proudly offers Laugavegi 55b | 7H Á Næstu Grösum alongside the staple Eldsmiðjan splendid way to start an affordable menu of A high street backyard Laugavegur 20B | G7 salad and sandwich. Bragagata 38A | G9 you off on your day. high-quality dishes restaurant where the Regarded by many to Café Loki Totally satisfying Grillhúsið Hótel Holt menu changes every be the best vegetarian Lokastígur 28 | G9 oven-baked pizza Tryggvagata 20 | Bergstaðarstræti 37 night, so who knows place in town, “First With a splendid view with a wide choice of E5/E6 | F7 what´s for dinner? But Vegetarian” offers of Hallgrímskirkja, Café toppings–snails an With a menu of rea- Housing Iceland´s serving such dishes as a healthy and tasty Loki is the perfect unusual specialty. Well sonably priced home- most renowned res- grilled dolphin, bac- menu of vegetarian place to take a load worth the cost. Order, style food, Grillhúsið taurant, The Gallery, an calao and kangaroo, and vegan dishes. In- off your feet and enjoy take away or eat has satiated hungry evening here is an un- you can´t go wrong by dian theme on Fridays some solid homemade comfortably among the regulars since 1994 forgettable experience. dropping by for lunch a hit. Icelandic food. paintings. with juicy burgers, Delicious French- or dinner. B5 Café Paris Fiskmarkaðurinn sandwiches, steaks inspired cuisine and Aktu Taktu Bankastræti 5 | F6 Austurstræti 14 | E6 Aðalstræti 12 | D6 and fish dishes. fine wines await. Skúlugata 15 | K8 By day a chic little With an outdoor ter- Run and co-owned by Habibi Humarshúsið This drive-in destina- bistro with good food race, this café gets the national team of Hafnarstræti 20 | D5 Ammtmanstígur 1 tion in 101 Reykjavík and a prime loca- busy on sunny days. chefs, this establish- A reliable source of | E7 is busy day and night tion for Laugavegur With a cosy interior, ment specializing in high quality shawarma One of the oldest res- and the burgers are people watching–by fine menu and atten- Japanese cuisine has and falafel. Important taurants in the country, especially tasty. The night a stylish bar tive service, it makes a everything planned to ingredient for success- the lobster house is caramel shakes are a with a “whiskey room” fine spot for evening the last detail, ensur- ful living. known of course for local favorite. and Manhattanesque dining as well. ing a relaxing evening. Hamborgarabúlla its lobster and also American Style clientele. Café Roma Geysir Bar/Bistro Tómasar (“Bullan”) its impressive cognac Tryggvagata 26 | E5 Babalú Rauðarárstígur 8 | J9 Aðalstræti 2 | D6 Geirsgata 1 | D5 lounge. Fine intimate With a soft bun and Skólavörðustígur 22A Roma, an Italian deli Situated in the digni- Considered by some dining. lots of veggies, you | G8 and café, offers a va- fied Geysir Building at to be the best real Hressó can settle into a booth It’s tough to miss café riety of breads, soups the corner of Vestur- hamburger in Reyk- Austurstræti 20 | E6 and eat for hours. Big Babalú walking up as well as tempting gata and Aðalstræti, javík, “Bullan” does With a spacious portions for authentic Skólavörðustigur. A desserts. For a good this stylish bistro is serve some mysteri- neutral interior and American dining. cozy place for coffee bargain, come at always a good place to ously delicious burgers, a varied lunch menu, Argentína Steak- and cake, the well- lunchtime for the grab a tasty bite for a guaranteed to take the Hressó attracts no house worn, homey ambience specials. reasonable price. edge off any hangover. specific type of crowd. Barónstígur | I8 makes it difficult to Café Victor Garðurinn Hlölla Bátar Tap beer and music leave. makes a fair hangout True to its name with Hafnarstræti 1-3 | Klappastigur 37 | G7 Ingólfstorg | D6 tender steaks and Bæjarins Beztu D6/E6 “Ecstasy’s Heart” is The first sub sandwich on weekends. flamingly vibrant South Tryggvagata | E6 A hangout for older a simple, friendly, shop in Iceland, Hlölla Icelandic American décor. Gen- The oldest fast-food in foreigners, Victor at- family-run vegetarian Bátar has a large Fish & Chips erous portions, fine Iceland, it is feasibly tracts a diverse crowd, restaurant on Klap- selection of creatively Tryggvagata 8 | E5 wine, liqueurs and ci- B11 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 15 2008 Eating
Food Af lífi og sál
Reviewed by Sverrir Hjálmarsson — Photo by GAS
Af lífi og sál is located in a cosy port just mushrooms with a cheese mix, served Where: off of Laugavegur. The restaurant itself with a salad and green and red peppers. Laugavegur 55b is on two floors, with a balcony on the The smooth and salty taste of the mush- 101 Reykjavík second floor overlooking the port. The room made this the perfect appetizer. Tel.: 551 1511 interior is simple and relaxing and to- Next we had antipasto which came with gether with the enjoyable music creates a mixture of meats, cheese and olives. 7 H8 a welcoming atmosphere. It was so good that neither of us really The bistro offers a ‘floating menu,’ that wanted to share it with the other. How much: is to say they have a different menu in As for the main course, I had the gi- 1500 - 3000 ISK the evening than in the daytime. Dur- ant carp with lemon and caper butter, ing the daytime the emphasis is on served with tomato salad and shrimp What we think: lighter courses as well as lower prices. risotto. To be honest the carp was a bit A pleasant place for a quiet You’ll find everything from soups and to salty for my taste and I’ve never re- meal. salads to Icelandic opened-faced sand- ally been a fan of risotto, so I was a bit wiches and crêpes. In the evening they disappointed with the course. My com- switch to a sophisticated and more tra- panion had the baccalo with tomato and ditional menu, offering a variety of fish toasted garlic, served with salad, olives and meat courses as well as inviting and shrimp risotto. By his account the “They put on such a appetizers and desirable desserts. The dish was tasty and fulfilling, and even beautiful meal for us. prices are a bit higher in the evening, further complimented by the excellent We had the most but that only reflects the transforma- Pinot Grigio we had with it. Overall, the amazing freshest fish I've tion from bistro to restaurant. meal was very enjoyable despite the let ever had in my life. For starters, my companion for the down by the carp. It was all so perfectly evening and I decided to share two cooked too...Beautiful!” courses. First, we had grilled portobello Jamie Oliver’s Diary
by the sea and a delicios lobster at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri
Not your average all sorts of tough folks. renowned for its Santa Maria Sushibarinn pleasant establishment. fish’n’chips joint, but If you want traditional greasy sandwiches Laugavegur 22A, | F7 Laugavegur 2 | F7 Tívolí a healthy restaurant Icelandic food, a great and its unique Nonni- Authentic Mexican Deceptively ordinary Laugavegur 3 | F7 using only organic place to see another sauce. Open late for a food, directly from the Sushibarinn has re- A stylish bistro with a vegetables and qual- side of Reykjavík. midnight cravings. stove of the owner’s cently become the talk wide variety of selec- ity fish products. The Kebabhúsið O Sushi mother, who is an of the town among tions and positively spiced skyr side a Austurstræti 2 | E6 Lækjargata 2A | E6 authentic Mexican. Reykjavík sushi lovers, charming atmosphere. -Spör Ragnheiður ehf. Ágústsdóttir special treat. The name says it all, Also called “The Served with a healthy serving, in our opinion, distaste for anything the very best rolls Tjarnarbakkinn Indian Mango really. Train”, O Sushi’s most Vonarstræti 3 | D7 Frakkarstígur 12 | H8 intriguing feature is texmex. Also the best in city. Kofi Tómasar quality/price ratio in Right above the Iöno Specializing in deli- Frændu a conveyor belt that Svarta Kaffi theater, an ideal place cious dishes from the runs around the entire town with every dish Laugavegur 54 | H8 Laugavegur 2 | F7 under 1000 ISK. to go before shows. Goa region of India, Nestled in a basement restaurant delivering A cosy second floor Nice views of the pond honed to perfection in location, Uncle Tom´s a buffet of authentic Segafredo café, their fame lies and outdoor dining in the owner’s period as Cabin has the feeling sushi straight to your Lækjatorg | E6 partly in their tasty the summertime. The head chef at the Four of a back-alley London table. The Italian coffee chain Súpa í Brauði (Soup lamb comes especially Seasons. Incredible Café. On weekends it Pizza King makes its way to Læk- in Bread) and also in recommended. service as well as food. becomes a happening Hafnarstræti 18 | E6 jatorg Square, bringing their romantic atmo- strong espresso and sphere. Good for a few Vegamót Jómfrúin and diverse bar. This little place serves Vegamótastígur 4 Lækjargata 4 | E6 not only the cheap- Italian lunch snacks early evening drinks. Krua Thai to grab on the way to | G7 These days, good Tryggvagata 14 | D5 est but largest slices Sægreifinn Vegamót´s kitchen is Smörrebröd can be an downtown. A local fa- work or just to enjoy Verbuð 8, Geirsgata We dare you to find on the spot. open until 22.00 daily elusive delicacy. Lucky a better meal for the vorite, and open until 6 | D5 and sports an appeal- for us out in the colo- same price anywhere on Friday and Saturday Shalimar Right next to the ing lunch menu. Come The Forget-Me-Not Burger – Simply Magical! nies, it’s alive and well else. Every dish is nights. Austurstræti 4 | E6 harbor, Sægrefinn fish for a tasty brunch on at Jómfrúin with fresh delicious. Just eat what Pizza Pronto Shalimar sports the shop is like none other weekends. If you like eel imported specially looks best to you on Vallarstræti 4 | D6 conceit of being the in the country. With a Óliver, try Vegamót from Denmark. their colorful menu. With a convenient northernmost Indian diverse fish selection, and vice versa. restaurant in the world exquisite lobster soup Kaffi Hljómalind La Primavera location and late hours, Við Tjörnina Laugavegur 21 | G7 a good place to snack and has fine daily spe- and good service, an Austurstræti 9 | E6 cials. We recommend absolute must-try. Templarasund 3 | E7 This organic, free-trade Though it sounds in between bars. Three A Reykjavík classic café prides itself not sizes of pizza with the quite addictive Tapas strange, La Primavera chicken tikka masala. with menu exclusively only on great lunches serves delicious tra- a good selection of Vesturgata 3B | D5 of traditional cuisine, and food but being a ditional North Italian toppings. A cheap, if Sjávarkjallarinn For those with a bit as frequented by tour- strong cultural center, cuisine using only local unhealthy, choice. Aðalstræti 2 | D6 of money and time to ists as it is by locals. A hosting live music as produce. A startlingly Prikið Elegant Seafood Cellar spare, Tapas serves perfect opportunity to well as lectures and tasty combination and Bankastræti 12 | F6 focuses on gourmet course after course of try Icelandic delicacies. poetry nights. a local favorite. Part of the Reykjavík seafood and tantaliz- delightful miniature ing asian-fusion dishes. dishes. Also serves Vitabar Kaffitár Mokka bar scene for decades, Bergþórugata 21 | H9 Bankastræti 8 | F6 this café/bar has a Share the exotic menu, tasty and unusually af- Skólavörðustígur 3A courses selected by fordable lobster. Really a bar, but best Kaffitár celebrates | F7 fairly cheap menu and known for its ham- good coffee, and attracts a mix of stu- the chef, with a friend Thorvaldsen Operating since 1958, for the most fun. burgers. Burger and serves it in abundance, Mokka is the city dents and old regulars. Austurstræti 8 | E6 fries for 500 one of along with sweet center´s oldest cof- Mostly R&B and Hip- Sólon Dress formally for this the best deals in town, treats and tasty if pricy fee joint and founder Hop on weekends. Bankastræti 7a | F6 fancy spot, and come but Forget-Me-Not special blends. Eat in of Icelandic coffee Raðhúskaffi | D7 Truly a jack-of-all before 12 to avoid a blue cheese and Garlic or to go, a great way culture. Regular art Tjarnargata 11 trades establishment. long line. DJs play Extravaganza are alse to enjoy your morning exhibits are always Located in the City By night a decent res- Thursdays, Fridays and winners. boost. worth a look. Hall with a great view taurant, by day a café/ Saturdays. bistro and on Friday Kaffivagninn Nonnabiti of the pond, this café Tíu Dropar Grandagarður 10 has a good selection and Saturday nights a Laugavegur 27 | G7 Hafnarstræti 9 | E6 nightclub. Art exhibi- | D1 “Nonni” is one of the of pastries and a good An old-fashioned café By the harbor, this place to relax. Regular tions on the walls to with warm atmosphere more popular junk- top it off. lunch and coffee place food places in town, art exhibits add to the and generous coffee Bergþórugata 21 – 101 Reykjavík – Tel.: 5517200 is a gathering place for aesthetic. refills. A thoroughly B12 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 15 2008 Shopping SHOPPING Stylist: Erna Bergmann − Hair & Makeup: Elísabet Alma − Models: Eva & Geiri − Photographer: GAS
She wears: Pink Tank Top: Anatomie - Anatomie Black Tank Top: Anatomie - Anatomie Shorts: Anatomie - Anatomie Socks: Gaspard Yurkievich - Kronkron Leggings: Danskin - Ástund Shoes: Alexander McQueen for Puma - Anatomie Towel: Billabong - Brim
He wears: Jacket: Nike Limited - Kronkron T-Shirt: Kr3w - Noland Shorts: Wood Wood - Kron Kron Socks: Second Hand - Spúútnik Shoes: Nike - Kronkron
Special Thanks: Baðhúsið
Shopping | Venue finder
12 Tónar streetwear designs as you can even book an antique furniture and A flashy vintage cloth- Lækjargata 2A | E6 items of any kind. the colourfully printed Second-hand clothing store to satisfy them. Skólavörðust. 15 | G8 well as funky maga- excursion on the spot. vintage accoutrements ing shop with every- A great source for all Kronkron designer products. for the fairer sex at a Trilogia zines and media. to perk up your apart- thing from necklaces to reasonable price. A record label as well Dead kinds of reading mate- Laugavegi 63B | I8 Mál og Menning Laugavegur 7 | F7 ment. fur coats to kimonos. as a store, all the best Blue Lagoon Store Laugavegur 29 | G7 rial, with restaurants on This hip new shop Laugavegur 18 | G7 Skarthúsið A collection of trendy new Icelandic music on Laugavegur 15 | G7 Artist Jón Sæmun- G-Star Raw Green Apple the second floor. stocks the latest trends A multi-level store with Laugavegur 12 | F7 designer wear fills CDs or live on Fridays All the natural skincare dur Auðarson’s own Laugavegur 86 | I8 Laugavegur 20 | G7 Kisan in everything from games, books, souve- Glittery accessory shop the shop, summery at 5 PM. products from the hand-printed Rock and A store for the Dutch The tiny shop Laugavegur 7 | F7 socks to sweaters. nirs and a bustling café stuffed with cheap dresses, sweaters and 66°¨North famous geothermal spa Roll label, Dead, plus jeans brand, an edgy combines massage An interesting mix of KVK on the top floor. jewellery, bags or other skirts. at their outlet here. others. collection with innova- and other relaxation small items. Bankastræti 5 | F6 items from all around Laugavegur 27 | G7 Nakti Apinn The Viking tive details and washes. products with organic High quality Icelandic Brim Dogma the world you won’t Small yet stuffed Bankastræti 14 | F7 Skífan Hafnarstræti 3 | E5 products. outdoors clothing, Laugurvegur 71 | H7 Laugavegur 32 | H7 Galleri Sautján find anywhere else. designer shop KVK, Offers an amazing Laugavegur 26 | G7 This large tourist shop designed for life at 66° Big surf wear, skate Dogma offers street Laugavegur 91 | I8 Gyllti Kötturinn Kisuberjatréð which stocks a nice array of colourful de- Selection of CDs, DVDs sells all sorts of smart North wear, and snowboard clothing with interest- Stocking many hip Austurstræti 8 | E6 Vesturgata 4 | D5 selection of local signer wear as well as and computer games souvenirs to bring back Aftur shop. ing prints. Hooded labels, a unisex store One of a few second A lovely gallery/gift designs. contemporary media. as well as some Icelan- home. Laugavegur 23 | G7 Börn Náttúrunnar sweaters and T-shirts offering casual busi- hand shops that have shop run by ten artists Liborius Nexus dic films with English Þorsteinn Bergmann made by both Icelandic ness wear to evening popped up in recent subtitles. Aftur’s internation- Skólavörðustígur 17a and designers where Laugavegur 7 | F7 Hverfisgata 103 | I8 Skólavörðustígur 36 and foreign designers dress wear. year, Gyllti Kötturinn ally acclaimed label is | G8 they sell their products. One of a kind, very The biggest comic Spúútnik | G8 can be found. also offers some pieces proudly displayed here The basement Gilbert Kolaportið high-end shop featur- book and gaming store Laugavegur 32 | G7 Since the 1940s this by locals. in their shop/studio. children’s toy store Fígúra Laugavegur 62 | H8 Tryggvagata 19 | E5 ing the latest, crispest in Reykjavík has some- One of the best small store has offered Álafoss sells clothes and toys Skólavörðustígur | G8 Watchmaker Gilbert Handprjóna- Open on weekends, designs for both sexes. thing for everyone. second-hand shops a huge selections of Laugavegur 1 | F7 only made of organic This shop features Guðjónsson has sold sambandið you can get a bargain Marimekko Noland in the country, with household supplies for products as well as Icelandic designer watches and clocks on Sklólavörðustígur 19A recycled clothes at a a laughable low price. The downtown outlet on almost anything at Laugavegur 56 | H8 Laugavegur 32 | H7 for famous makers of books about childcare wear, everything from Laugavegur for over 40 | G7 this indoor flea market. Finnish designer brand A new skate shop range of prices. Anatomie and parenthood. street clothes to party years. Recently, Gilbert All sorts of hand knit traditional Icelandic Kraum Marimekko has found offering fresh tees and Systur Skólavörðustígur | G8 dresses. designed his own line woollen clothing as woolens. Cintamani Aðalstræti 10 | D6 its spot on Laugav- sneakers from Krew, Laugavegur 70 | H7 A great little shop with of wristwatches. well as fine yarns and Belleville Laugavegur 11 | F7 Friða Frænka Featuring the best in egur. The Marimekko Supra and more. For whatever women’s an excellent selection knitting supplies. Laugavegur 25 | G7 Featuring quality Vesturgata 3 | D5 Glamúr contemporary Icelandic concept store stocks Rokk og Rósir lingerie needs you of sportswear. Icelandic outdoor gear, A real treasure chest of Laugavegur 41 | Iða a wide selection of might have, this is the Stuffed with trendy H7 design of everyday Laugavegur 17 | G7
B14 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 15 2008
INTERVIEW By SteVIE WARD
together and when they had suggestions for col- laborations, we agreed to it. The festival strives to give Icelandic and foreign artists a platform to work together.” It is evident that this platform is successful. Two of this year’s artists, composer Hildur Ingvel- dardóttir Guðnadóttir and visual artist Elín Hans- dóttir, met on a plane and decided to collaborate. The aptly named ‘Ode to flying’ is a re-devising of "Music for airports 2/2" (originally recorded 30 years ago by Brian Eno.) Honorary Artist Ruri comments on her first time collaboration with acclaimed musician Jo- hann Johansson: “It’s quite a challenge because we hadn’t even met before this idea came up, and for me it is a very interesting one.” The multi-media art- ist started working with the musician long distance in the summer. “Then we met in Copenhagen, so we have been working it over the net, which is typi- cal for the times in which we are living.”
New Media Revolution The festival experiments with ‘New Media’ – the creation of live and virtual exchanges for audienc- es – through interactive video, sound and installa- tion. Experimentation with the inseparable nature of reality and simulation in the 70’s led to the devel- opment of walk-through installations that allowed audiences the freedom to move within the space and become affected in ways never before allowed in art exhibitions. “New Media artists had to fight their way into being,” Tinna explains. “The pieces in Sequences are not ones that are commonly acknowledged. There is a lot of New Media in museums, but how can you buy a performance? How can you sell it? It’s impossible to recreate or capture.” flysky - From last year's Sequences festival Ruri comments: “People say ‘It cannot be art because you cannot keep it, there is nothing left, when you finish it’ so I say it’s like memories: it lives onward in the memories of those who are present. Memories are not valid, some say they have no Exploring Site Specific Art value. I love to ask the person, ‘are you married?’ Very often they say yes. So I ask, ‘Why did you get The Sequences Festival is on again married? By the same method of evaluation, it has no real value. It only lives in your memory.” In regard to this year’s memories, Tinna con- cludes: “When so much is focused on the audience The Sequences Festival is an annual indepen- ‘active’, creating new rules for the audience: you Spatial experimentation is evident in so much of going ‘through something’, you have to be here to dent arts festival established in Reykjavík in activate the space when you walk into it, and you ‘Sequences’. The aim of ‘Situationists’ was to notice see it. I like art as an experience. It should be alive 2006. Founded by four artist-run galleries— choose when the performance ends. “There is a how certain spaces intervene with states of mind, and overwhelming – New Media is the future of The Living Art Museum, Kling & Bang Gallery, magical aspect to it,” Kristin continues. “It becomes and to seek out reasons for movement there, other art.” The Dwarf Gallery and Gallery Bananananas a surreal thread into daily life, rather than some- than those the environment was designed for. Tin- and developed by the Center for Icelandic thing you have to put aside, with directions on how na Guðmundsdóttir remarks that remnants from Art— this year’s 27 works focus on time-based to experience it. In Sequences 2006, Andrew Bur- last year’s festival are still ‘intervening’ with Reyk- Sequences Arts Festival arts with emphasis on site-specific, multi-dis- gess had a video work projected onto Parliament javik’s landscape. “People still point out Theresa October 11 - 17 ciplinary work. We sat down with Executive called ‘Another Þing’, which completely distorted Himmer’s sequined waterfall from 2006 and they For more info: Director Tinna Guðmundsdóttir, Artistic Di- the way one experienced the space. This year, Mag- ask ‘has that always been there?’ When they dis- www.sequences.is rector Kristín Björk Kristjánsdóttir and Hon- nús Árnason, ‘The Darkest Star of Icelandic art’ will cover where it came from, it is such a nice feeling to orary Artist Ruri to explore the inspiration take the Nordic House under siege with a morbid realise you were a part of it, a part of the magic.” behind the festival. slime installation.” A Multi-disciplinary Movement Ever since artists removed the proscenium arch or The Magic of Time and Space The festival aims to facilitate the fusion of differ- traditional exhibition spaces from the equation, Honorary Artist Ruri explains: “Art is like magic ent artistic disciplines, Kristin explains. “Even the festivals have continued to create artwork away and the time based artworks in Sequences bring Sequences artists themselves are inter-disciplinary. from black-box style theatres or museums. “I’m fas- together magic and technology and science.” Time They always have more than one string to their cinated about how you can walk through town and Based Media (introduced in 1972 by UK video art bow. For example, in our VJ event, filmmakers col- have things pour over you” Kristín Björk Kristjáns- pioneer David Hall) is this festival’s primary ele- laborate with musicians. Danni from Sometime will A person shouldn't need an ar- dóttir explains. “A person shouldn't need an arrow ment. Performances can be ‘one-off’ moments in be playing a scruffy, custom made drum kit that row pointed at art saying ‘this pointed at art saying ‘this is art’; I like how it can be time, or run for the entire duration. For example triggers video signals.” something that just happens to you. You don’t have ‘Stilluppsteypa’, an experimental electronic duo, “It was inspired by Iceland Airwaves,” Tinna is art’; I like how it can be some- to step into a space that is specifically an art space will exhibit an `artificial intergalactic alien presen- continues. “They always have artists who make thing that just happens to you.. to experience it. The thinner the line between art tation` in the basement of Listasafn Íslands which something ‘deluxe’ just for them. We wanted to do and reality becomes, the more interesting it gets.” will only exist for the length of the festival, whilst something similarly special for Icelandic artists. This opens the mind to view all spaces as some works may become permanent installations. We really tried this year to bring different people Books, Music, Souvenirs & lots more.
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ACCOMMODATION PIPAR • SÍA • 80693 For more information: www.sequences.is Full details and complete festival overview in the next issue of The Reykjavík Grapevine. September 25 — October 5 2008 FIFilm ScheduleLM + Movie Reviews + Electronica Reykjavik (ICE) + Missing? (US) + Blind Loves (SVK) Your essential guide to REYKJAVÍK INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL 2008. Issue 15 2008 www.grapevine.is/art/film www.riff.is
What: Dieter Roth Puzzle (C3) Regnboginn October 3 20:00 C2 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 15 2008 Listings Midnight Movies Sound on Sight The Crown Jewel ELECTRONICA REYKJAVIK of Ozploitation Electronica Reykjavik is the story of a revolution in music. The electronic and Long Weekend is not only a golden nug- encourage everyone to grab the oppor- house music of the late 80’s and early get of the Ozploitation-era but also a for- tunity to watch this original work on the 90’s not only defined a generation, it gotten classic of horror cinema. A young big screen. Screening before the feature affected a whole other generation of married couple on the brink of a divorce is the short film Violence in the Cinema, musicians. A scene of mostly under- head into a secluded beach to try to part 1 (1971) by George Miller, director ground and avant-garde Icelandic work out their problems. They have no of the Mad Max trilogy, where the rising electronic artists emerged, many of respect for their surroundings and slowly wave of violent cinema is discussed in a which are portrayed in the film. Be nature starts turning against them. The fairly straightforward manner. prepared for the deepest rhythms of environment becomes uncanny and nature and - above all - a very sexy threatening, but no monsters are in- Regboginn party. The film gives rare insight into the volved – rather, the horror lies within the 27.9 | 23:30 (AUS) 1978 early days of Icelandic dance music as detailed atmosphere that lures the audi- 3.10 | 23:30 92 min, it features footage from clubs long gone ence into the seething paranoia. The film 5.10 | 22:30 35mm and hairstyles better forgotten as well celebrates its 30th anniversary this year as performances from artists such as and is projected from a new film print. A Anonymous, Biogen, GusGus, Ghostigi- remake is on the way and therefore we tal and many more.
Regnboginn Arnar Q&A Jónasson 27.9 | 18:30 (ICE) 2008 1.10 | 19:30 55 min, Iðnó Beta SP 30.9 | 22:30
New Visions Horizon: Argentina Blind loves Leonera
As the title indicates, Blind Loves is Would you sacrifice your mother to be can be in a healthier environment, but about the love between blind people. free? Leonera is about Julia, a young Julia is unwilling to let go. This film deals It follows two couples, a blind mother Argentinian woman who is possibly with ethical dilemmas, but in the end it and a young teenage girl, trying to find a murderer. Either she or Ramiro, her boils down to a single question: Would love on the Internet. The first couple has lover, killed Nahuel and either Ramiro or you sacrifice your mother to be free? clearly been together for a long time but Nahuel is the father of her son, Tómás. It the second one just started dating and looks like it could get ugly in court. In Ar- Regnboginn Pablo Trapero the girl’s parents are not very pleased. gentina children can be raised in prison 30.9 | 19:30 (ARG) 2008 The blind mother has a child who is to be with their mothers. Julia’s mother 1.10 | 22:00 113 mín, not blind and they have a very special wants to raise her grandson so that he 2.10 | 17:00 Digibeta relationship. The teenage girl meets a boy on the Internet but is afraid to tell him that she’s blind. How can a blind person find love? Do blind people see love differently than other people? In a very entertaining manner, this film shows how blind people struggle with love and how, like everybody else, they only want to love and be loved.
Regnboginn Jurajw 26.9 | 22:30 Lehotsky 1.10 | 19:30 (SVK) 2008 3.10 | 17:00 77 mín, 35 mm
Event Event RIFF | Venues Bæjarbíó Hafnafirði be transformed into a MÍNUS25 FESTIVAL TV Strandargötu 6 | modern cinema. This old cinema will National Gallery of host a few special Iceland Minus25 is a special section within the Festival TV is a channel that shows re- events, for example the Fríkirkjuvegi 7 | E8 Reykjavík International Film Festival ports from the program and interviews Kung Fu extravaganza The recipient of the Cre- which the celebrated that is dedicated to young people from with guests of Reykjavik International ative Excellency Award musician Paul Oscar will at the 2008 Reykjavík In- 5–25 years old. The festival has worked Film Festival. The reports are made by offer eager viewers. ternational Film Festival during the past years to become more the media students at the University of Hitt Húsið will host several exhibi- Pósthússtræti 5 | E6 tions at this art museum than a film festival by adding an im- Iceland and film students at Borgar- This youth culture by the city pond. portant educational value to the event. holtsskóli College, who will prepare centre will be a haven Regnboginn The objective of the Minus25 program daily clips from the festival. The vast for young enthusiastic Hverfisgötu 54 | H7 filmmakers as it hosts is to provide young people with film selection of clips will be screened on One of the three main the youth film weekend, RIFF cinemas and also oriented entertainment, education and various venues across the city centre, amongst other fun the only functional experience during the festival. The main but will also be available at the festi- events. cinema on a daily basis. collaborators in the Minus25 program val’s official webpage www.riff.is. So, if Hressingarskálinn It boasts of five fully Austurstræti 20 | E6 equipped screening are Hitt Húsið and The Nordic House you want to be sure you’re not missing If you want to take part rooms and screens the and most of the program will take place out on some crucial event, and also if in the celebrated ‘Gret- bulk of the program. tir Cabaret’ you’ll have there. The detailed schedule can be you do so, check out this brand new The Nordic House to show up at this old Sturlugötu 5 | C11 found on the Riff webpage, www.riff.is. festival TV. coffee place where the The Nordic culture cen- participants gather. tre, nicley designed by Iða the famous architect Al- Lækjargötu 2 | E5 var Alto is a milestone in In this central coffee the festival’s schedule shop tickets will be and hosts many screen- available during open- ings as well as a various ing hours or from 12PM special events. till 6PM. Volunteer Centre Iðnó Laugarvegi 35 | H7 Vonarstræti 3 | E7 A lot of people volunteer An old and antique their work at the festival. hall where a restaurant At the volunteer centre and a music venue is you can get tickets and operated nowadays. For festival info from 10AM this year’s RIFF it will till 8PM. C3 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 15 2008 Listings
17:30 Home 20:00 And Rolling/ Electronica SUNDAY OCT 5 TUESDAY SEPT 30 RIFF Schedule 20:00 Pandora’s Reykjavik 22:30 I Loved You So Long 22:30 Story of Stuff/ Stone Silence Iðnó Nordic House Regnboginn Regnboginn Thursday Sept 25 13:00 Breakfast With Scot 12.00 An afternoon with Gloria 15:30 Birdsong 17:30 Pandora’s Box 15:30 Whisper Trees/ In Search of Fan and Baltasar Kormákur 17:30 Tale 52 20:00 Blind Loves Iðnó a Legend 17.30 Up The Yangtze: Q&A with 20:00 Zift 22:30 Without Mercy 15:30 Wild Combination: A Portrait 17:30 Squeeze Box director Yung Chang 22:30 The Ax of Arthur Russel 20:00 Up The Yangtze Iðnó Regnboginn 17:30 Shadow of the Holy Book 22:30 Icelandic Shorts 20.00 Breakfast with Scot: Q&A 15:30 Story of Stuff/ Stone 20:00 Cat Dancer THURSDAY OCT 2 Nordic House with producer Paul Brown Sclence 22:30 33 Scenes from Life 13:00 Young Heros 10 & under The Grand Rokk 17:30 Drifting Flower Nordic House Iðnó 15:30 Dieter Roth Puzzle 21:00 Grettir Kaberet Screening. 20:00 Fridge/ About Water 15:30 Two Looks 13:00 Story of Stuff/ Stone 17:30 Shadow of the Holy Book Films made in 72hrs will be 22:30 Wisper Trees/ In Search of a 17:30 Flow: For Love of Water Silence 20:00 Bomd It! screened before an audience. Legend 20:00 Indestructible 15:30 Fury 22:30 Terribly Happy Regnboginn 22:30 Feast of Villains 17:30 Generation 68/ Only a Birth Regnboginn 15:30 Soar Regnboginn 20:00 A Jihad for Love 15:30 Tulpan 17:30 A Zone WEDNESDAY OCT 1 20:00 O´Horten 22:30 She’s a Boy I Knew 17:30 TBA 22:30 A Country Teacher 20:00 Cold Lunch Nordic House 20:00 TBA Nordic House Regnboginn 22:30 Before Tomorrow 15:30 Wild Bull 22:30 TBA 12.00 Lecture Mate Amargo: 17:30 Cold Lunch 17:30 Up the Yangtze Regnboginn Modern Argentinian filmmaking 20:00 Snow 20:00 Two Looks 15:30 Barcelona Hólmfríður Garðarsdóttir 22:30 Tale 52 22:30 Wild Combination MONDAY SEPT 29 17:30 TBA 20.00 The Shadow of The Holy Regnboginn Regnboginn 20:00 TBA Book: Q&A with director Arto 20:00 Breakfast with Scot Iðnó 17:30Lion’s Den 22:30 TBA Halonen 23:30 Heavy Metal in Baghdad 13:00 Cat Dancers 20:00 I Loved You So Long Regnboginn Iðnó Regnboginn 15:30 My Winnipeg 22:30 Tulpan 15:30 Drifting Flowers 17.30 Upstream Battle: Q&Awith 17:30 Berlin Calling 17:30 Generation 68 Regnboginn 17:30 My Winnipeg director Ben Kempas 20:00 Uprising 20:00 In Search of a Legend 17:30 Adoration 20:00 Heavy Metal in Baghdad 20.00 Bomb it!: Q&A with director 23:30 Investigator 22:30 That’s What I Call Dance/ 20:00 O´Horten 22:30 Fury Jon Reiss Everybody Present! 22:30 Lou Reed’s Berlin Regnboginn Nordic House Regnboginn 15:30 Before Tomorrow Friday SEPt 26 13:00 Tale 52 17:30 Fridge/ About Water 17:30 Home THURSDAY OCT 2 15:30 33 Scenes From Life 20:00 Good Cats 20:00 Snow Iðnó 17:30 Wild Bull 22:30 My Winnipeg 22:30 Violence in the Cinema/ Nordic House 15:30 A Beautiful trag 20:00 Berlin Song Regnboginn Long Weekend 10.00 Sound on Sight market 17:30 The Fridge/ About Water 22:30 Indestructible 17:30 Revanche Ráðhúsið 20:00 The Suicide Tour Regnboginn 20:00 The Most Distant Course 16.00 Bomb It! Bomb It! – Panel 22:30 Bomb It! 17:30 Berlin Calling 22:30 Cold Lunch Events on graffiti Nordic House 20:00 Missing Bæjarbío FRIDAY Sept 26 Iðnó 13:30 The last Continent 22:30 Zift 21:00 Kung Fu Night 20.00 A Jihad For Love: Q&A with 15:30 Up Stream Battle Regnboginn Listaháskóli Íslands producer Sandi Dubowski 17:30 Shirin Neshat 17:30 Before I Forget 11.30 Shirin Neshat Masterclass- Regnboginn 20:00 Drifting Flowers 20:00 Lou Reed’s Berlin FRIDAY OCT 3 She will speak about her own 20.00 I’ve Loved You So Long: 22:30 A Jihad for Love 22:30 O’Horten work and the connection between Q&A with director Phillipe Claudel Regnboginn Regnboginn Iðnó filmmaking and visual arts. 21.00 B-movie night with Páll 17:00 Ev. Present 17:30 Mr. Big 13:00 Flow Nordic House Óskar 18:15 Thats What I Call Dance 20:00 The Last Continent 15:30 Good Cats 17.00 Shirin Neshat: Q&A with 22:30 Revanche 22:30 Feast of Villians 17:30 She’s a Boy I knew director Regnboginn Regnboginn 20:00 Terribly Happy Regnboginn 17:30 The Ax 17:30 Barcelona FRIDAY OCT 3 22:30 Berlin Song 17.00 Everybody present!: Director 20:00 With Your Permission 20:00 Soar Nordic House present María Guðmundsdóttir 22:30 Blind Loves 22:30 With Your Permission Nordic House 13:00 Polar Radio 18.15 RegnboginnThat’s what I Regnboginn 11.00 Screening I´ve loved you 15:30 Shadow Of The Holy Book call dancing: Director present 17:30 Good Cats so long and Q&A with director 17:30 Young Heros 14+ Ásthildur Kjartansdóttir 20:00 Mr. Big Philippe Claudel TUESDAY SEPT 30 20:00 A Beautiful Tragedy Iðnó 22:30 Berlin Song 12.00 Sandi Dubowski: 22:30 33 Scenes From Life 20.00 The Suicide Tourist: Q&A Regnboginn Discussion- Faith and Iðnó Regnboginn with director John Zaritsky 17:30 Pandora´s Box homosexuality- the producer 13:00 Wild Bull 17:30 Icelandic Shorts Regnboginn 20:00 Birdsong of A Jihad for Love leads a 15:30 A Line a Day Must Be 20:30 Dieter Roth Puzzle 20.30 Only a Birth: Director 22:30 Before I Forget discussion. Enough! Regnboginn present Þór Elís Pálsson 17:30 Up The Yangtze 17:30 Adoration 18.00 Arto Halonen Masterclass 20:00 Breakfast with Scot 20:00 Without Mercy Regnboginn SATURDAY Sept 27 22:30 And Rolling/ Electronica 22:30 With Your Permission 17.00 Icelandic shorts: Directors Reykjavik Regnboginn SATURDY Sept 27 present Iðnó Nordic House Nordic House 17:30 Pandora’s Box Nordic House 17.30 She’s a Boy I Knew: Q&A 13:30 Young Heros 10-12 15:30 Young Heros 12-14 20:00 Hanna K 12:00 John Zaritsky documentary with Director Gwen Haworth 15:30 Young Heros 10-12 17:30 Young Heros 14+ 22:30 Zift masterclass Regnboginn 17:30 Two Looks 20:00 Squeeze Box! Regnboginn 17:00 Eye for an eye by Árni 20.30 Dieter Roth Puzzle: Director 20:00 Shirin Neshat 22:30 A Beautiful Tragedy 17:30 Blind Loves Beinteinn Árnason present Hilmar Oddsson 22:30 My Winnipeg Regnboginn 20:00 Before I Forget Regnboginn 20.00 Without Mercy: Q&A with Regnboginn 17:30 Afterschool 22:30 The Most Distant Course 18:30 Electronica Reykjavik: director Elemér Ragályi 15:30 A Country Teacher 20:00 Birdsong Regnboginn Director present Arnar Jónasson 20:00 Bæjarbíó Hjaltalín in 18:30 Electronica Reykjavik 22:30 Adoration 23:30 Violence in the Cinema/ 20:00 Directors present Elsa Concert 20:15 And Rolling Regnboginn Long Weekend María Jakobsdóttir & Gaukur The Grand Rokk 21:30 O´Horten 17:30 The Most Distant Course Bæjarbío Úlfarsson 21:00 Grettir Kaberet Screening Regnboginn 20:00 Revanche 20:00 Sons of the Soil Films made in 72hrs. 15:30 Before Tomorrow 22:30 Soar 17:30 Snow Regnboginn 20:00 Hanna K 17:30 Cat Dancers SATURDAY OCT 4 SUNDAY SEPT 28 22:30 Berlin Calling 20:00 Bomb It! SATURDAY OCT 4 Háskólatorg Háskóla Íslands Regnboginn 22:30 Mr. Big Iðnó 13:00 An afternoon with Costa- 15:30 A Line a Day Must Be Regnboginn 13:00 Upstream Battle Nordic House Gavras Enough 17:30 Lou Reed’s Berlin 15:30 That’s What I Call Dance/ 10.00 Screening of Okay followed Iðnó 17:30 Generation 68/ Only A Birth 20:00 Lions Den Everybody Present! by Q&A 17:30 Squeezebox!: Q&A with 20:00 Terribly Happy 22:30 Home 17:30 The Suicide Tour 14.00 Work in progress: Sunshine director Zach Shaffer 22:30 She’s a Boy I Knew 20:00 A Line a Day Must Be Boy by Friðrik Þór 20:00 Iðnó Frontier Ghandhi Regnboginn Enough! Ráðhúsið world premiere: Q&A with 15:30 I Loved You So Long WEDNESDAY OCT 1 22:30 Drifting Flowers 16.00 Nordic panel: The Self- director T.C. McLuhan 17:30 Without Mercy Nordic House Image of Nordic filmmaking Kringlan 20:00 Barcelona Iðnó 17:30 Feast of Villans The panel includes including 20:00 Drive-In Movie! Dayshift/ 22:30 Rain 13:00 Wisper of Trees/ Story of 20:00 33 Scenes From Life Paprika Steen, the Danish Remote Control director: Oskar Regnboginn Stuff 22:30 Dieter Roth Puzzle filmmaker and actress, the Jonnsson. 23:30 Violence in the Cinema/ 15:30 Heavy Metal in Baghdad Regnboginn Faroese filmmaker Katrin Long Weekend 17:30 Upstream Battle 15:30 Cat Dancers Ottarsdóttir and Laufey 20:00 Bomb It! 17:30 Fury Guðjónsdóttir. 22:30 Terribly Happy 20:00 Garbage Warrior MONDAY SEPT 29 Regnboginn SUNDAY SEPT 28 Nordic House 22:30 Heavy Metal in Baghdad 18.00 With Your Permission: Q&A 13:00 Without Mercy Regnboginn Ráðhúsið with director Paprika Steen 20.00 Iðnó A Line a Day Must Be Iðnó 15:30 Young Heros 12-14 15:30 A Zone 12.00 Pannel: The importance Enough: Q&A with director Katrin 15:30 A Jihad for Love 17:30 The Last Continent 17:30 With Your Permission of documentaries in the Ottarsdottir 17:30 Squeeze Box 20:00 Shadow Of The Holy Book 20:00 A Country Teacher environmental discussion. 20:00 Frountier Ghandi 22:30 Breakfast with Scot 22:30 I Loved You So Long Filmmaker Pannel Includes, Yung 22:30 Frountier Ghandi Regnboginn Regnboginn Chang, Konstanty Kulik, Ben Nordic House 17:30 Rain 15:30 Cold Lunch Kempas and Teri McLuhan SUNDAY OCT 5 13:30 Young Heros 10-12 20:00 Adoration 17:30 Tulpan 17.00 Peace Concert with David 15:30 Young Heros 10-12 22:30 Lion’s Den 20:00 Investigator Amram- From India to Iceland The Grand Rokk 17:30 The Suicide Tour Regnboginn 22:30 Revanche Iðnó 21:00 Grettir Kaberet Screening 20:00 Flow 17:30 Investigator Regnboginn 17.30 Iðnó Generation ´68: Q&A 22:30 Wild Combination: A 20:00 Afterschool 15:30 Snow with director Simon Brook Portrait of Arthur Russell 22:30 Hanna K 17:30 The Ax 20.00 Search of a Legend: Q&A Regnboginn Regnboginn 20:00 Rain with director Konstanty Kulik 15:30 Afterschool 17:30 Indestructible 22:30 Tale 52 C4 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 15 2008 Listings Young Heroes Costa-Gavras Zezil’s World Missing?
Children have long been a neglected from the Middle East. Kristopher on the Missing is based on real events that audience when it comes to documenta- other hand is really relieved when he de- took place right after the 1973 coup ries and the few that are made for them cides to tell his family and friends that he d’état in Chile. An American father tend to be made for TV. That is changing is gay. Finally we follow the day Estonia played by Jack Lemmon arrives in South however and this year the festival will, in joined the EU – but particularly we follow America to search for his son. Slowly he co-operation with the Goethe-Institut, Mikk, Kristo and Sascha who turned 18 starts to realise that not everything is offer thirteen documentaries for children, that same day. the way it should be in this country, nor divided into four different programs in his own. and organised by different age groups. Nordic House ZeZils Verden Jack Lemmon proved in this film that In the age group 14+ the highlight is 30.9 | 17:00 Denmark he was not just a capable comedian but the Danish film Zeizil’s World. Here we 3.10 | 17:00 35 min also a good dramatic actor. The script meet Zezil and Kristopher who are both won an Oscar and the film received outsiders in their way. Zezil feels like a the Golden Palm at Cannes as well as foreigner in her own country, because winning awards at nearly every other while she is Danish, her ancestors come festival that year. The film received good reviews everywhere except in Chile where it was banned during the dicta- torship. Missing has long since become a classic and was a major milestone in Costa-Gavras’ career.
Regboginn Costa-Gavras Q&A (US) 1982 29.9 | 20:00 122 mín, 35 mm
Icelandic Open Sea According to the director himself, there is nothing significant about the main Panorama A Feast of Villains character of this film. Fu Gui fills a certain space but has no understand- NAGLINN ing of that space. In reality Fu Gui is nothing but a badly beaten dog unable Under the Icelandic Panorama category, to confront the world with anything but we bring you the films that we believe nervous fear. Fu Gui badly needs money will reflect Icelandic film production in to pay for his father’s medicine and in the coming years. On of the more suc- order to get the money he heads south cessful Icelandic shorts in this category to sell one of his kidneys illegally but is “The Nail” by Benedikt Erlingsson. is cheated out of the money. When he This is a picture about a nail, about returns, his father has died and now men, the male animal, politicians and he can’t even pay for the funeral. That brain damage. Róbert is a leader of a bizarre plotline manifests that Feast of nation who gets a nail rammed into his Villains is a tragicomic take on a grim head, resulting in brain damage. He reality. Director Pan Jianlin was born becomes a better leader but a worse in 1969 and belongs to a new genera- politician. Benedikt Erlingsson has tion of Chinese filmmakers, less afraid lately performed the one act play Mr. of criticizing the government and has Skallagrímsson for a full house in the shown again and again that he is an Settlement Centre in Borgarnes. Many artist unafraid to use the film medium to Icelanders also remember him from tackle serious issues. Fóstbræður (Stepbrothers), a sketch show from the late 90s. Norræna Pan Jianlin húsið (CHN) 2008 Regnboginn Benedikt 25.9 | 22:30 85 min, Q&A Erlingsson 4.10 | 17:30 Digibeta 3.10 | 17:00 (ICE) 2008 Regnboginn Iðnó 15 min, 29.9 | 22:00 5.10 | 22:30 Digibeta
Docs in Focus Docs in Focus Bomb it! The Global Shadow Of Graffiti Documentary The Holy Book
Bomb it! takes the viewer on a journey In Shadow of the Holy Book director to the origins of modern street art in Arto Halonen and his friend, reporter New York where the first tags ushered Kevin Frazier, investigate the relation- in a new form of communication, a way ship between a few big corporations for the forgotten people of the sprawl- and the dictator state Turkmenistan. ing metropolises to scream and reveal The former Turkmenistan leader what the world is really like, to reject its Saparmut Niyazov (also known as previously accepted norms. This form Turkmenbashi) wrote the propaganda of communication has evolved into book Ruhnama and made it mandatory elaborate street art spread across the reading in all the schools in the country. continents, from Amsterdam to Tokyo Today the book is like the Bible of to São Paulo to London. This street art Turkmenistan. In order to do business in now has its own aesthetic values that Turkmenistan various large corporations question the definitions of art and what have translated the Ruhmana into their makes a space public. own language, despite little interest in It embraces life – true life, not the jaded, the book outside of Turkmenistan, thus self-indulgent views that permeate the opening up business opportunities with so-called clean parts of the world. The Turkmenistan. In this way the corpora- director Jon Reiss has been named one tions are also supporting the human of the “10 Digital Directors to Watch” rights violations that are widespread in by Daily Variety and we have to say we the country. agree, digital or not. Iðnó Arto Halonen Iðnó Jon Reiss 25.9 | 17:30 (FIN) 2007 26.9 | 22:30 (US) 2007 Norræna 90 mín, Q&A 93 mín, húsið Digibeta 1.10 | 20:00 Digibeta Q&A Regnboginn 1.10 | 20:00 30.9 | 19:30 5.10 | 17:30 Norræna húsið 5.10 | 20:00