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The charming Yucatan only occurs in the extreme north of the Yucatan Peninsula (Mark Van Beirs)

THE YUCATAN PENINSULA

21 FEBRUARY – 4 MARCH 2018

LEADER: MARK VAN BEIRS

A very well-behaved Lesser Roadrunner posing for scope views in a derelict meadow near Rio Lagartos became the of the Tour on our 2018 Yucatan trip. Our explorations of the different habitats of the Yucatan Peninsula produced many more splendid observations. The very touristy island of Cozumel yielded cute Ruddy Crakes, White-crowned Pigeon, , Cozumel Emerald, Yucatan , Yucatan Amazon, Cozumel and Yucatan , Black and Western . The astounding waterbird spectacle at the lagoons and mangrove-lined creeks of Rio Lagartos, situated near the northernmost tip of Yucatan is always great fun. Highlights included glorious, endemic Mexican Sheartails,

1 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Yucatan Bobwhite, Bare-throated Tiger and Boat-billed Herons, American White Pelican, Clapper Rail, Rufous-necked and Rufous-naped Wood Rails, Kelp Gull, Yucatan , Yucatan Wren and Orange Oriole. The dry woodland of the Sian Ka’an reserve held Middle American Screech Owl, Pale-billed Woodpecker, Tawny-winged Woodcreeper, Stub-tailed Spadebill, Couch’s Kingbird, , Yucatan , Green-backed Sparrow, Rose-throated and Blue Bunting. Fabulous Grey-throated Chats gave excellent views in the semi-humid forests of the magnificent Mayan archaeological site of Calakmul, where we also found impressive Great Curassows, gaudy Ocellated Turkeys, Bicoloured Hawk, Yucatan Poorwill, Lesson’s Motmot, White-bellied Wren and interesting like Grey Fox and Yucatan Black Howler and Geoffroy’s Monkeys. An excellent selection of migratory North American warblers greatly added to the birding experience of this holiday, where good food, nice accommodation, smooth roads and very enjoyable birding conditions are the norm.

Plain Chachalacas were more often heard than seen (Mark Van Beirs)

The tour started with a pre-dawn drive from the infamous resort town of Cancun to the carferry terminal south of Playa del Carmen. A single Plain Chachalaca obliged beautifully as the sun was hitting the horizon and soon we were sailing towards Cozumel, the ‘Island of the Swallows’. Two Cabot’s Terns and a few Laughing Gulls entertained us on the boat journey. Several frighteningly enormous cruise ships were anchored in the harbour of Cozumel. After checking into our harbourside hotel, we explored a stretch of scrubby forest in the north of the island. As soon as we got out of the minibus, a smart male Western

2 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Spindalis of the endemic race benedicti sat up for great views and a Yucatan Woodpecker showed briefly. We slowly walked along a wide track, picking up goodies like Yucatan , the endemic Cozumel Vireo, a cracking shiny Black Catbird and several responsive Mangrove Warblers. The Cozumel race of Southern House Wren obliged at length. We also found Ruddy Ground Dove, Lesser Goldfinch, White-collared Seedeater and Yellow-faced Grassquit, while an impressive Black Spiny-tailed Iguana was sunning itself. After this brief, but excellent introduction to the avifauna of Cozumel we had a leisurely lunch which was interrupted by great looks at male and female of the endemic Cozumel Emerald feeding in a flowering hibiscus. They were regularly joined by a Green-breasted Mango and several (of the near endemic race caboti). A couple of Collared Peccaries provided more entertainment. In the afternoon we explored another nice area of woodland where a pair of Yucatan gave terrific looks and we also observed Black-and-white, Magnolia and Palm Warblers, American Redstart, Northern Parula and Blue- grey Gnatcatcher (endemic race cozumelae). As we drove to our next destination we noted Snowy Egret, Brown Pelican, Turkey and Black Vultures, Common Gallinule, American Coot, Northern Jacana, Ruddy Turnstone, Spotted Sandpiper, Royal Tern, Eurasian Collared Dove, Tropical Mockingbird and good numbers of Great-tailed Grackles. In mid-afternoon we birded a small marsh where some of us obtained fair looks at a Ruddy Crake and where Least Grebe, Blue-winged Teal, Little Blue Heron and Great Egret were added to the list. The final of the day included White-crowned Pigeon, Mourning and White-winged Doves and Vaux’s Swift.

Black Catbird is easily seen on Cozumel (Mark Van Beirs);Yucatan Vireo regularly showed well (participant Rainer Kopa)

Before dawn, we were waiting for nightbirds in a nice stretch of woodland, but only a Pauraque called and showed well. Sunrise found us in another patch of scrubby forest where goodies included all too fleeting Doves, a splendid Mangrove Cuckoo, Ovenbird, Northern Waterthrush and a lovely White-nosed Coati. At a secluded marsh we managed to get excellent looks at two cute, well-behaved Ruddy Crakes and a fine Least Bittern. We returned for a scrumptious breakfast, followed by a relaxed drive around the southern half of the island. The wild, windward eastern side gave us a totally different feeling compared to the western side, which is sadly crammed with resorts and hotels. Marshy ponds held Black-bellied Whistling Duck, American White Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Tricoloured Heron, Double-crested Cormorant, Anhinga, Killdeer and Myrtle Warblers. In the afternoon we checked an area of farmbush in the interior of the island where, next to a squadron of roaring tourist quads, we obtained glorious views of a male Hooded Warbler and a couple of male Painted Buntings. The scope studies of a male Green-breasted Mango were fabulous and we also noted Northern Beardless Tyrannulet, Eastern Wood Pewee, a singing male Grey-crowned

3 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Yellowthroat and a stylish Black-throated Green Warbler. Upon returning to our vehicle two Yucatan Amazons flew over showing their distinctive markings and minutes later we observed several more going to their roost.

The male of the endemic Mexican Sheartail is a real gem, as is the male Vermilion Flycatcher (Mark Van Beirs)

The following morning, we took the first ferry across to the mainland, enjoyed a delicious breakfast in Cancun and drove along an almost deserted highway to the northernmost tip of the Yucatan Peninsula. We arrived around midday in the quiet seaside village of Rio Lagartos. While enjoying some tasty seafood we observed American White and Brown Pelicans, loads of Magnificent Frigatebirds, Double-crested Cormorant, American Oystercatcher and Mangrove Swallow. The feeders were visited by a splendid male and a female of the localized, endemic Mexican Sheartail. Ruby-throated, Cinnamon and Buff- bellied added to the enjoyment. In the afternoon we had a look at an active heronry in the , where lots of colourful Roseate Spoonbills, Great and Snowy Egrets, Tricoloured and Little Blue Herons and Neotropic Cormorants were displaying and nesting. Afterwards we birded the nearby cactus-

The Rio Lagartos boat trip produced great looks at a flock of stately American White Pelicans (Mark Van Beirs)

4 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com studded scrubby woodland. At first everything was still very quiet because of the heat and the strong wind, but gradually things started to wake up. Our main target here was the endemic, very localized Yucatan Wren which eventually showed very well as a pair perched on top of a prickly pear cactus. A cute Ferruginous Pygmy Owl was hooting away and a glistening male Canivet’s Emerald obliged at length. While wandering about we also added American Flamingo, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Western Osprey, Black-necked Stilt, Least Sandpiper, Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, Zenaida Dove, Groove-billed Ani, Velasquez’s Woodpecker, Northern Crested Caracara, Olive-throated Parakeet, Vermilion Flycatcher, Tree Swallow, Blue-black Grassquit, Northern and Indigo Bunting to the tally.

The rarely-seen Rufous-necked Wood Rail performed very well (Mark Van Beirs), as did this Yellow-crowned Night Heron (participant Rainer Kopa)

At dawn we were already slowly sailing along the edge of the extensive mangroves of the Ria Lagartos Reserve. It was low tide, so a nice stretch of mud was visible. Our man on the spot took us straight to a specific area, where soon we were first observing a well-performing Clapper Rail. Minutes later several Rufous-necked Wood Rails appeared and showed brilliantly. Both adult and immature birds were about and allowed in depth studies! A splendid accomplishment. As we had seen our main target so soon, we had time to just enjoy the abundance of waterbirds, while slowly cruising about. We obtained cracking looks at an exquisite Bare-throated Tiger Heron, admired the marvellous display of Great Blue Herons, approached a large flock of ponderous American White Pelicans and bizarre Black Skimmers and studied a very friendly Common Black Hawk. Other interesting included American Flamingo, Wood Stork, Yellow-crowned Night and Green Herons, Reddish Egret (a dark morph), lots of Double-crested Cormorants, several Western Ospreys, Belted Kingfisher and a pair of White-fronted Amazons. We collected a good selection of waders like Grey and Semipalmated Plovers, Whimbrel, Marbled Godwit, Sanderling, Semipalmated, Western and Spotted Sandpipers and Willet. Next to the abundant Laughing Gulls, we found decidedly uncommon gulls like Ring-billed, Kelp, American Herring and Lesser Black-backed! Terns were also well represented as Gull- billed, Caspian, Royal, Cabot’s, Common and Forster’s showed very well. Several Common Raccoons were seen along the edges of the mangroves soon after dawn and a couple of medium-sized Morelet’s Crocodiles were found basking on the mud banks. While enjoying a flavoursome lunch we observed the comings and goings of very smart male and more modestly-clad female Mexican Sheartails next to a couple of Cinnamon Hummingbirds. After a short rest in the heat of the day we continued our explorations. At the edge of the village a soaring Zone-tailed Hawk caught our attention. Its imitation of a tilting Turkey Vulture was plain to see. Sadly, the saltpans to the east of the village, which used to be easily accessible, are now out of bounds. In the general area we picked up new birds like Snowy Plover, Common Ground Dove and Hooded Oriole, while a scrubby, rather open meadow yielded fantastic views of a showy Lesser Roadrunner. The blue orbital ring around the pale eye and its stripy could be discerned. A Turquoise-browed Motmot was glimpsed while driving back to our accommodation. After dinner a nocturnal boat trip along the nearby creeks

5 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com produced excellent views of three different Yucatan perched high up in the canopy of mangrove trees. We also located a single Boat-billed Heron and a Black-crowned Night Heron.

This Common Black Hawk held territory in the Rio Lagartos mangroves (Mark Van Beirs)

6 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com While the sun was struggling with the horizon, we found ourselves in a nice patch of scrubby woodland dotted with clumps of prickly pear cacti. We heard several Yucatan Bobwhites call in the distance and listened to the dawn chorus of already known species. On our walk, we added new birds like Red-billed Pigeon, Northern Beardless Tyrannulet, Least Flycatcher, Mangrove Vireo, smart Altamira and Hooded Orioles and a gaudy male Blue Grosbeak. Several parties of White-fronted Amazons flew past. We bumped into an antswarm next to the track where two Barred Antshrikes, several showy Yucatan , a male Grey-crowned Yellowthroat, a Grey Catbird and several Groove-billed Anis were feeding unconcerned by our presence on the hapless that were trying to flee from the vicious ants. On the return walk we suddenly flushed a covey of eight Yucatan Bobwhites and although the views were a bit brief, we were relieved to see this speciality. A nearby lake held an interesting variety of waterbirds including a dinghy- looking immature American Flamingo, c15 American Wigeon and a Sora. On the return to base, we stopped at the edge of a large mangrove forest near the village, where, to our surprise, we found another Rufous- necked Wood Rail. We enjoyed a short break in the heat of the day and in the afternoon we explored a couple of quiet backroads through little used meadows and patches of scrub. A small secluded pond gave us a splendid Rufous-naped Wood Rail (a recent split from Grey-necked Wood Rail) and a Solitary Sandpiper. Regular stops added new birds like White-eyed Vireo, Scrub , a couple of stylish Yellow-throated Warblers, a terrific Yellow-breasted and a male Rose-breasted Grosbeak to the list.

The Bare-throated Tiger Heron is a very smart mangrove denizen (Mark Van Beirs)

7 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com A short pre-breakfast outing produced excellent views of a covey of ten Yucatan Bobwhites scurrying about in an open area amongst cacti-studded scrub. The black-throated male especially gave very satisfying views! We had another look at the small tree-lined pond where two Rufous-naped Wood Rails were foraging very actively allowing perfect views. We returned to base and enjoyed a yummy breakfast, which was briefly interrupted by two Clapper Rails feeding along the edge of the mangroves. We then loaded up and drove straight south to the unremarkable town of Felipe Carillo Puerto. A Roadside Hawk and a couple of Yucatan Jays were the only birds of note on the journey. In the afternoon we made our first visit to the famous Sian

The cute Middle American Screech Owl gave cracking views (participant Rainer Kopa)

8 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Ka’an Reserve along the Vigia Chico track. Little was moving at first, but a pair of Spot-breasted Wrens was lured in for good looks and Wedge-tailed Sabrewing, Buff-bellied Hummingbird and White-bellied Emerald performed. A flowering tree held a nice female Rose-throated Tanager and two Bat Falcons were chasing eachother over the forest. Eight superbly elegant Swallow-tailed Kites circled over accompanied by several Purple Martins. Other goodies included Black-headed and Gartered Trogons, Greenish Elaenia, Brown Jay and Tennessee Warbler. In late afternoon Thicket Tinamous started calling and just at dusk we heard the distinctive purring call of a Middle American Screech Owl. It didn’t take too long before this cutie showed beautifully in the torchbeam. Not much later we also obtained fair views of a responsive Mottled Owl, but Northern Potoo and Yucatan Nightjar remained voices in the night.

Yucatan Jays lead a boisterous life, while Yucatan Flycatchers behave more modestly (Mark Van Beirs)

We spent the whole following day in the forests of the Sian Ka’an Reserve. At dawn we were overlooking a large clearing and watched the birds wake up. A pair of Crane Hawks were patrolling the forest edge and a couple of Grey Hawks flew past. Noisy parties of Brown Jays were guarding the area and a smart Grey- headed Tanager showed very nicely. We also picked up Scaled Pigeon, Lineated Woodpecker, Yellow- bellied Elaenia, Tropical Pewee, Masked Tityra, Yellow-throated Euphonia, Black-cowled Oriole and Black- headed Saltator here. As the sun was beginning to heat things up, we retreated to the forest itself and walked along a wide track which gave us several more specialities. A minute, cute Stub-tailed Spadebill performed very well for all and a pair of subtle Yucatan Flycatchers allowed close inspection. A singing Green-backed Sparrow showed off its distinctive features and we also noted Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, Dusky-capped and Brown-crested Flycatchers and Lesser Greenlet. After a break in the heat of the day we returned to the forest where the only bird of note was Blue Ground Dove. Our late afternoon at a large scrubby clearing dotted with palms was more birdy with spectacular Keel-billed Toucans, cryptic Couch’s Kingbirds and a striking Black-cowled Oriole, next to more widespread species like Red- billed Pigeon, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Black-crowned Tityra, Northern Rough-winged Swallow, Clay-coloured Thrush and .

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The male Rose-throated Becard is an eye-catcher (Mark Van Beirs); The Bright-rumped Attila is often heard (participant Rainer Kopa)

A final morning in the Sian Ka’an Reserve produced a trio of smashing Pale-billed Woodpeckers, a nice Tawny-winged Woodcreeper, a pair of gorgeous Rose-throated Becards, a party of boisterous Yucatan Jays and a male, female and a young male of the adorable Rose-throated Tanager. Other new species for the tour included Bicoloured Hawk (glimpsed only), Cuckoo, Golden-olive Woodpecker, Yellow-throated Vireo and Yucatan Squirrel. In mid-morning we returned to the hotel for a delicious brunch and later drove south and then east to our base in the Calakmul area. Several Grey-breasted Martins enlivened the journey. During the final hours of daylight we explored the grounds of our hotel and observed a good selection of migrant warblers and also a female Summer Tanager. Towards dusk we stood guard near the famous bat cave and saw thousands upon thousands of bats leave their roost in swirling clouds. We managed to scope an attending Bicoloured Hawk here. On the after dinner nightbird session we only heard a rather distant Yucatan Poorwill.

This male Grey-throated Chat was one of the highlights at Calakmul; Yucatan Black Howler Monkeys kept us awake at night (Mark Van Beirs)

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The archaeological temples of Calakmul are a joy to visit as well as a splendid birding site (Mark Van Beirs)

At 04.00 most of us got almost shaken out of bed by the amazingly loud, rumbling and reverberating howling of a male Yucatan Black Howler Monkey that had chosen the tree above one of the chalets as its roost! At dawn we were driving along the deserted entrance track through well preserved xerophytic woodland to the world famous archaeological site of Calakmul. It didn’t take too long before we had decent views of a male Great Curassow, soon followed by a party of four exquisite Ocellated Turkeys parading on the track. These large fowl only survive in well protected areas and the Biosphere Reserve of Calakmul must be one of the best sites in to observe these marvellous creatures. Later in the day, in more sunny conditions, we had more terrific encounters with the Ocellated Turkeys, so that we could appreciate their superb finery in detail. After munching our packed breakfast, we slowly walked along, picking up new birds like Lesson’s Motmot (scope views of this fairly recent split from Blue-crowned Motmot), Collared Aracari, Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, Bright-rumped Attila and Summer Tanager. But, the highlight of the morning was a fantastic male Grey-throated Chat that showed wonderfully at close range, allowing us to discern the gorgeous colours of this localized species. When it started to get a bit too hot, we drove to the archaeological site and wandered about these spectacular remains of the Mayan Golden Age. The Calakmul site is situated deep in the jungles of the greater Petén Basin region, just 35 km from the Guatemalan border. It was one of the largest and most powerful ancient cities ever uncovered in the Maya lowlands. No fewer than 6,750 ancient structures have been identified at Calakmul ("The city of the Two Adjacent Pyramids”) and Structure nr 2, the great pyramid is, with its 45m, one of the tallest of the Maya pyramids. Calakmul reached its apogee in the 7th century. We walked amongst a selection of the best-preserved structures and strolled along the Plaza Central. The almost total lack of other visitors and especially vendors (in very sharp contrast to Chichen Itza) made a visit to this remarkable site a real delight. The large trees within the compound held several parties of acrobatic Geoffroy’s Spider Monkeys and we also found a female Yucatan Black Howler Monkey with her baby. A swift Deppe’s Squirrel was another addition to the list. After this splendid cultural experience, we strolled further along the quiet track and added Crested Guan, Red-lored Amazon, Green Jay, Yellow-backed Oriole, Red-throated Ant Tanager (scope views), a male Blue Bunting and a White-tailed

11 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Deer to the tally. On our post dinner excursion, we went in search of our remaining nocturnal target and after quite a struggle, finally managed to get great looks at a perched, singing Yucatan Poorwill.

The Rufous-naped Wood Rail is a recent split from Grey-necked Wood Rail and showed very well (Mark Van Beirs)

We returned the following morning to one of the better stretches of forest along the Calakmul entrance track. Most of the birds were known to us by now, but we still added several interesting species. A quick look at a small pond gave us a couple of Purple Gallinules. Several tiny White-bellied Wrens obliged in the undergrowth and we had a fantastic time observing two males and a female Grey-throated Chat at minimal range. Magic stuff! A curious Grey Fox walked past and we also found Collared Trogon, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Slaty-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Yellow-olive Flatbill, Carolina Wren (of the White-browed form), Long-billed Gnatwren and Tropical Gnatcatcher. A Tawny-crowned Greenlet was calling from the understorey, but refused to show. During the midday break Ian observed a Collared Forest Falcon from his chalet and watched a gopher digging up the lawn. In mid-afternoon we resumed our activities and visited several spots along the entrance track, but not much was found moving. A couple of Rufous-naped Wood Rails were foraging at the edge of a pond, where a Ringed Kingfisher was also busy. A White-breasted Wood Wren was the final new bird of this very enjoyable holiday, which gave us all the endemics and specialities of the Yucatan Peninsula.

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Ocellated Turkeys are always a joy to observe (Mark Van Beirs)

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR

The species names and used in the report mostly follows Gill, F & D Donsker (Eds). IOC World Bird Names. This list is updated several times annually and is available at http://www.worldbirdnames.org.

Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were only recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (LO). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL).

Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g. it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).

Conservation threat categories and information are taken from Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International’s magnificent book on the sad status of the rarest 10% of the world’s avifauna, and updates on the BirdLife website: http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/home E = Endangered, V = Vulnerable, NT = Near Threatened, DD = Data Deficient.

Thicket Tinamou ◊ Crypturellus cinnamomeus (H) We heard its mournful call regularly in the south. Black-bellied Whistling Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis A few were noted on Cozumel. Blue-winged Teal Spatula discors Regular observations. American Wigeon Anas americana 15 showed well on a lagoon at Rio Lagartos. Plain Chachalaca ◊ Ortalis vetula Regular encounters with this vociferous species. Crested Guan Penelope purpurascens A single bird showed briefly at Calakmul. Great Curassow ◊ Crax rubra Excellent observations of several at Calakmul.

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American Wigeon; Roseate Spoonbill (Mark Van Beirs)

Yucatan Bobwhite ◊ nigrogularis After initial all too brief sightings, we had cracking looks. Ocellated Turkey ◊ Meleagris ocellata Terrific looks at several at Calakmul. Magnificent finery! Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus Good looks at several on Cozumel. Yellow eyes! American Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber Lots at Rio Lagartos, but never really close. Wood Stork Mycteria americana Three sightings of this widespread species. American White Ibis Eudocimus albus Good numbers were noted at Rio Lagartos. Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja Lots of these amazingly-coloured birds at Rio Lagartos. Least Bittern Ixobrychus exilis Two excellent observations at a reedy pond on Cozumel.

Bare-throated Tiger Heron; Green Heron (Mark Van Beirs)

Bare-throated Tiger Heron Tigrisoma mexicanum Fantastic looks at one at Rio Lagartos. A cracker! Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius We saw a couple at night at Rio Lagartos. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Just two in the Rio Lagartos area. Yellow-crowned Night Heron Nyctanassa violacea Regular and attractive at Rio Lagartos. Green Heron Butorides virescens Small numbers were seen on Cozumel and at Rio Lagartos. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Small numbers were noted in the north of Yucatan. Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias Regular at Rio Lagartos. Some impressive display was witnessed. Great Egret (American G E) Ardea [alba] egretta Fairly common wherever we encountered lagoons. Reddish Egret Egretta rufescens A single dark morph bird showed well at Rio Lagartos. Tricolored Heron (Louisiana H) Egretta tricolor Common at Rio Lagartos. Breeding plumage! Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea Common at Rio Lagartos. Confusing immatures! Snowy Egret Egretta thula Common at ponds and lagoons. Yellow lores! American White Pelican Pelecanus erythrorhynchos Splendid encounters at Rio Lagartos. Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis Many excellent encounters at Rio Lagartos. Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens Fantastic looks at these expert aerial kleptoparasites.

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Great Blue Heron; American White Pelican (Mark Van Beirs)

Brown Pelican (Mark Van Beirs)

Neotropic Cormorant (Olivaceous C) Phalacrocorax brasilianus Regular at Rio Lagartos. Double-crested Cormorant Phalacrocorax auritus Common at Rio Lagartos. Green eyes! Anhinga Anhinga anhinga Two sightings of the “snakebird”. Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Common all along our route. Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus Several showed well at Rio Lagartos. Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Very common in Yucatan. Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus Six excellent observations of this widespread piscivore. Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus Terrific looks at eight soaring birds over Sian Ka’an. Bicolored Hawk Accipiter bicolor Two sightings in the Calakmul area.

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Magnificent Frigatebird; Double-crested Cormorant (Mark Van Beirs)

Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens Fair views of two at Sian Ka’an. Common Black Hawk Buteogallus anthracinus Perfect views on the Rio Lagartos boat trip.

Western Osprey; Roadside Hawk (Mark Van Beirs)

Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris Regular at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Grey Hawk Buteo plagiatus Nice looks at two at Sian Ka’an. Zone-tailed Hawk Buteo albonotatus Excellent close up looks at one at Rio Lagartos. Ruddy Crake Laterallus ruber Good looks at this cutie for all at a lagoon on Cozumel. Clapper Rail Rallus crepitans A very nice observation of two birds on the Rio Lagartos boat trip. Rufous-necked Wood Rail ◊ Aramides axillaris Terrific views of four birds on the Rio Lagartos boat trip.

16 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Rufous-naped Wood Rail ◊ Aramides albiventris Great looks at two at Rio Lagartos. Also at Calamul. Sora Porzana carolina One showed well at a reedy lagoon at Rio Lagartos. Purple Gallinule (American P G) Porphyrio martinica Two were seen briefly at the Calakmul lagoon. Common Gallinule (Laughing G) Gallinula galeata A few were seen on Cozumel. American Coot Fulica americana A handful of encounters. American Oystercatcher Haematopus palliatus Good looks at Rio Lagartos. Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus Common at Rio Lagartos.

Grey Plover; Northern Jacana (Mark Van Beirs)

Grey Plover (Black-bellied P) Pluvialis squatarola A few were note at Rio Lagartos. Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus Common on the Rio Lagartos mudflats. Killdeer Charadrius vociferus A few were seen and heard at Rio Lagartos. Snowy Plover Charadrius nivosus A single observation at Rio Lagartos. Northern Jacana Jacana spinosa A handful of sightings. Whimbrel (Hudsonian W) Numenius [phaeopus] hudsonicus A single bird was seen at Rio Lagartos.

Marbled Godwit; Ruddy Turnstone (Mark Van Beirs)

Marbled Godwit Limosa fedoa Very nice looks at several on the Rio Lagartos mudflats. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Common on Cozumel and at Rio Lagartos. Sanderling Calidris alba A flock of c60 birds showed well at Rio Lagartos. Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla Regular at Rio Lagartos. Semipalmated Sandpiper Calidris pusilla A single bird was observed at Rio Lagartos. Western Sandpiper Calidris mauri A single bird was identified on the Rio Lagartos mudflats.

17 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius Several nice encounters. Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria A single bird showed well at the Rufous-naped Wood Rail pond. Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes Small numbers were noted at Rio Lagartos.

Willet; Black Skimmer (Mark Van Beirs)

Willet (Eastern W) Tringa [semipalmata] semipalmata Regular at Rio Lagartos. Attractive in flight. Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca A few were seen at Rio Lagartos. Black Skimmer Rynchops niger A flock of c130 birds gave splendid looks at Rio Lagartos. Laughing Gull Leucophaeus atricilla Common along the coast of Yuacatan. Ring-billed Gull Larus delawarensis A single bird showed well at Rio Lagartos. Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus A single adult bird showed well on the Rio Lagartos boat trip.

American Herring Gull; Royal Tern (Mark Van Beirs)

American Herring Gull Larus smithsonianus Several birds were found at Rio Lagartos. Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus Two adults were identified at Rio Lagartos. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Two were noted in a tern flock at Rio Lagartos. Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Regular and impressive at Rio Lagartos. Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus Regular encounters along the coasts of Yucatan. Cabot's Tern Thalasseus acuflavidus Common at Rio Lagartos. Common Tern Sterna hirundo A couple were hiding amongst the more common Forster’s Terns. Forster's Tern Sterna forsteri A flock of c30 birds was roosting on a sand bank at Rio Lagartos. Rock Dove (introduced) (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia White-crowned Pigeon ◊ Patagioenas leucocephala Nice scope views of several on Isla Cozumel. Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa Two were scoped at Sian Ka’an.

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Forster’s Terns (Mark Van Beirs)

Red-billed Pigeon Patagioenas flavirostris A handful of encounters. Eurasian Collared Dove (introduced) Streptopelia decaocto Common in villages. A recent arrival! Common Ground Dove Columbina passerina Regular in drier habitat. Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti Common all along our route. Blue Ground Dove Claravis pretiosa Regularly heard and seen once at Sian Ka’an. White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Often heard and seen a couple of times. Caribbean Dove ◊ Leptotila jamaicensis Fair views on Isla Cozumel. Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura A single bird was seen on Isla Cozumel. Zenaida Dove Zenaida aurita Several were seen in flight at Rio Lagartos.

White-winged Dove; Ferruginous Pygmy Owl (Mark Van Beirs)

White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica Regular all along our route. A distinctive voice of the Yucatan. Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Regular. Lesser Roadrunner ◊ Geococcyx velox THE BIRD OF THE TRIP. Great looks at Rio Lagartos.

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The Lesser Roadrunner that became the Bird of the Trip (Mark Van Beirs)

Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Just a few sightings. Mangrove Cuckoo minor Very nice views of one on Isla Cozumel. Middle American Screech Owl ◊ (Guatemalan S O) Megascops guatemalae Excellent at Sian Ka’an. Mottled Owl Strix virgata Good looks at a calling bird at Sian Ka’an. Ferruginous Pygmy Owl Glaucidium brasilianum Great looks at this tiny species. Often heard. Northern Potoo Nyctibius jamaicensis (H) We heard it not too far away at Sian Ka’an. Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis Three nice observations of this widespread species. Yucatan Poorwill ◊ yucatanicus Tremendous views, eventually, at Calakmul. Yucatan Nightjar ◊ Antrostomus badius Several were seen well on the Rio Lagartos nocturnal boat trip. Vaux's Swift Chaetura vauxi Common on Isla Cozumel. Wedge-tailed Sabrewing ◊ Campylopterus pampa Regular at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Green-breasted Mango ◊ Anthracothorax prevostii Fantastic scope views on Isla Cozumel. Cozumel Emerald ◊ Chlorostilbon forficatus Several excellent observations on Isla Cozumel. Canivet's Emerald ◊ Chlorostilbon canivetii A regular species of the Yucatan woodlands. Cinnamon Hummingbird ◊ Amazilia rutila Common and easy to identify. Buff-bellied Hummingbird ◊ Amazilia yucatanensis Fairly regular at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl A single observation of this widespread bird at Sian Ka’an. White-bellied Emerald ◊ Amazilia candida Regular at sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Mexican Sheartail ◊ eliza Fantastic looks at dazzling males and females at Rio Lagartos. Ruby-throated Hummingbird Archilochus colubris Just a few sightings of this northern migrant. Black-headed Trogon ◊ Trogon melanocephalus Cracking views of a male at Sian Ka’an. Often heard. Gartered Trogon (Northern Violaceous T) Trogon caligatus Regular observations. Collared Trogon Trogon collaris Nice looks at male and female at Calakmul.

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Green-breasted Mango; Cozumel Emerald (Mark Van Beirs)

Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata (NL) One was seen at Calakmul. Belted Kingfisher Megaceryle alcyon Several were noted on the Rio Lagartos boat trip. Lesson's Motmot ◊ Momotus lessonii Scope views of this smart species at Calakmul. Turquoise-browed Motmot ◊ Eumomota superciliosa A single sighting at Rio Lagartos. Emerald Toucanet ◊ (White-throated T) Aulacorhynchus prasinus (H) We heard it at Calakmul. Collared Aracari Pteroglossus torquatus Nice looks at two at Calakmul. Keel-billed Toucan Ramphastos sulfuratus First-rate views of this stunner at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul.

Yucatan Woodpecker; Pale-billed Woodpecker (Mark Van Beirs)

Yucatan Woodpecker ◊ pygmaeus Outstanding encounters on Isla Cozumel. Velasquez's Woodpecker ◊ Melanerpes santacruzi The most regularly seen woodpecker. Ladder-backed Woodpecker Dryobates scalaris (H) We heard it at Rio Lagartos.

21 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Golden-olive Woodpecker Colaptes rubiginosus Good looks at one at Sian Ka’an. Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Superb views at close range at Sian Ka’an. Pale-billed Woodpecker Campephilus guatemalensis Three birds obliged beautifully at Sian Ka’an. Northern Crested Caracara (Northern C) Caracara cheriway Small numbers were noted on the drives. Collared Forest Falcon Micrastur semitorquatus We heard its raucous voice. Ian saw one at Calakmul. Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis A couple were displaying over the Sian Ka’an forests. White-fronted Amazon ◊ (W-f Parrot) Amazona albifrons Common and vociferous. Red-lored Amazon (R-l Parrot) Amazona autumnalis Three were seen in flight at Calakmul. Yucatan Amazon ◊ Amazona xantholora Great looks at several on Isla Cozumel. Olive-throated Parakeet ◊ (Axtec P) Eupsittula [nana] astec Common. Tawny-winged Woodcreeper ◊ Dendrocincla anabatina A single bird showed well at Sian Ka’an. Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus Very nice views of one at Calakmul. Northern Barred Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae (NL) A single was seen at Sian Ka’an. Ivory-billed Woodcreeper ◊ Xiphorhynchus flavigaster Several excellent sightings.

Female Barred Antshrike (participant Rainer Kopa; Bright-rumped Attila (Mark Van Beirs)

Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus Both sexes gave great views. Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata Nice looks at this unobtrusive species at Sian Ka’an. Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster A single bird was observed at Sian Ka’an. Caribbean Elaenia ◊ Elaenia martinica (H) We heard it at Sian Ka’an. Northern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma imberbe Regular encounters with this tiny species. Northern Bentbill ◊ Oncostoma cinereigulare (H) We heard it a few times at Calakmul. Slaty-headed Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus sylvia A single sighting at Calakmul. Yellow-olive Flatbill (Y-o Flycatcher) Tolmomyias sulphurescens One showed well at Calakmul. Stub-tailed Spadebill ◊ Platyrinchus cancrominus Excellent views of this endearing bird at Sian Ka’an. Eastern Wood Pewee Contopus virens A single bird was seen on Isla Cozumel. Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus Several showed well at Sian Ka’an. Least Flycatcher Empidonax minimus Just a handful of records. Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus obscurus Common, showy and so beautiful! Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Regular observations. Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Just a few observations of this well-known bird. Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Several were seen at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus The famous TK. Common. Couch's Kingbird ◊ Tyrannus couchii Good looks at this cryptic species at Sian Ka’an. Yucatan Flycatcher ◊ yucatanensis Great views of a pair at Sian Ka’an.

22 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer A few were seen and heard at Sian Ka’an. Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus Regular observations at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Bright-rumped Attila (Flammulated A) Attila [spadiceus] flammulatus Cracking looks at Calakmul. Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor A single bird was noted at Sian Ka’an. Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata Regular observations at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Rose-throated Becard Pachyramphus aglaiae Terrific views of this attractive species at Sian Ka’an. Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Very nice looks on Cozumel. Heard at Calakmul. White-eyed Vireo Vireo griseus A couple of observations at Sian Ka’an. Mangrove Vireo ◊ Vireo pallens A regular species of the Yucatan woodland.

Cozumel Vireo (Mark Van Beirs); Yucatan Vireo (participant Rainer Kopa)

Cozumel Vireo ◊ Vireo bairdi Several very nice close ups with this Cozumel endemic. Yellow-throated Vireo Vireo flavifrons Five observations of this smart northern migrant. Yucatan Vireo ◊ Vireo magister Several showed well on Isla Cozumel. Tawny-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus ochraceiceps (H) We heard it at Calakmul. Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus Fairly common at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Yucatan Jay ◊ yucatanicus Regular and noisy at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Green Jay Cyanocorax luxuosus A few were seen at Calakmul.

Brown Jay; Mangrove Swallow (Mark Van Beirs)

Brown Jay Psilorhinus morio Common and boisterous at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul.

23 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Tree Swallow Tachycineta bicolor Regular observations at Rio Lagartos. Mangrove Swallow Tachycineta albilinea Great looks at several along the Rio Lagartos seafront. Purple Martin Progne subis Small numbers were flying over the Sian Ka’an forest. Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Several were noted in a village on the way to Calakmul. Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis A few observations of this migrant. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica A handful of sightings only.

Yucatan Wren; Blue-grey Gnatcatcher of the endemic Cozumel race (Mark Van Beirs)

Yucatan Wren ◊ yucatanicus Cracking views of this endemic at Rio Lagartos. Spot-breasted Wren Pheugopedius maculipectus Regular encounters at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Carolina Wren ◊ (White-browed W) Thryothorus [ludovicianus] albinucha Good looks at Calakmul. House Wren ◊ (Southern H W) Troglodytes [aedon] aedon (H) We heard it at Rio Lagartos. House Wren ◊ (Cozumel W) Troglodytes [aedon] beani Splendid looks at several on Isla Cozumel. White-bellied Wren ◊ Uropsila leucogastra Very nice looks at this tiny species at Calakmul. White-breasted Wood Wren Henicorhina leucosticta A single bird showed quite well at Calakmul. Long-billed Gnatwren Ramphocaenus melanurus Excellent looks at this charming species at Calakmul Blue-grey Gnatcatcher Polioptila caerulea Regularly seen throughout the trip. Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea A single observation at Calakmul. Grey Catbird Dumetella carolinensis Three sightings of this northern migrant. Black Catbird ◊ Melanoptila glabrirostris Common on Cozumel, but also seen on mainland Yucatan.

Tropical Mockingbird; Mangrove Warbler of the rufivertex race (Mark Van Beirs)

24 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus Very common throughout. Clay-colored Thrush Turdus grayi A few were seen at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Lesser Goldfinch Spinus psaltria Our only observation was of a male on Cozumel. Scrub Euphonia Euphonia affinis Regular at Sian Ka’an and Calakmul. Yellow-throated Euphonia ◊ Euphonia hirundinacea Several were seen at the same sites. Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapilla A couple of encounters only. Northern Waterthrush Parkesia noveboracensis Regularly seen. Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia Regular throughout the trip. Tennessee Warbler Leiothlypis peregrina A few encounters only. Grey-crowned Yellowthroat Geothlypis poliocephala Fairly common in scrubby fields. Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas A few observations at Rio Lagartos. Hooded Warbler Setophaga citrina Males of this very attractive species were seen three times. American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla Common and always nice. Northern Parula Setophaga americana Small numbers were seen along our route. Magnolia Warbler Setophaga magnolia Good numbers were noted. American Yellow Warbler Setophaga aestiva Just a few were seen. Mangrove Warbler Setophaga petechia Great looks at the race rufivertex on Cozumel. Palm Warbler Setophaga palmarum A few on Cozumel and at Rio Lagartos. Myrtle Warbler Setophaga coronata Small numbers were found on Cozumel and at Rio Lagartos.

Yellow-throated Warbler; of the race caboti (Mark Van Beirs)

Yellow-throated Warbler Setophaga dominica Several excellent observations of this gorgeous bird. Black-throated Green Warbler Setophaga virens Regular sightings. Yellow-breasted Chat Icteria virens Perfect looks at this cracker at Rio Lagartos. Yellow-backed Oriole Icterus chrysater A pair showed well at Calakmul. Orange Oriole ◊ Icterus auratus A few observations of this Yucatan speciality. Altamira Oriole ◊ Icterus gularis Regular observations of this large oriole. Hooded Oriole Icterus cucullatus Regular. The orange race igneus! Black-cowled Oriole ◊ Icterus prosthemelas Several nice sightings at Sian Ka’an. Red-winged Blackbird Agelaius phoeniceus A few observations in the Rio Lagartos area. Melodious Blackbird Dives dives Small numbers were seen and heard in the south. Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus Very common and obvious. Seen most days. Bananaquit Coereba flaveola We only saw this well-known bird on Cozumel (race caboti). Green-backed Sparrow ◊ Arremonops chloronotus Several gave a nice show at Sian Ka’an. Grey-headed Tanager Eucometis penicillata A single bird was seen well at Sian Ka’an. Black-headed Saltator Saltator atriceps Great looks at a noisy party at Sian Ka’an. Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Regular. White-collared Seedeater ◊ Sporophila torqueola Fairly common. Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivaceus We saw this species in small numbers on Cozumel. Western Spindalis ◊ (Western Stripe-headed Tanager) Spindalis zena Beautiful on Cozumel.

25 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Summer Tanager Piranga rubra A male and a female were noted at Calakmul. Rose-throated Tanager ◊ Piranga roseogularis Terrific looks at males and females at Sian Ka’an. Red-throated Ant Tanager ◊ Habia fuscicauda Several family parties were found at Calakmul. Rose-breasted Grosbeak Pheucticus ludovicianus Two nice observations of males. Grey-throated Chat ◊ Granatellus sallaei Fantastic looks at this much wanted beauty at Calakmul. Northern Cardinal Cardinalis cardinalis Regular encounters. Blue Bunting ◊ Cyanocompsa parellina Several males and females showed well at Calakmul. Blue Grosbeak Passerina caerulea A single male was seen near Rio Lagartos. Indigo Bunting Passerina cyanea Regular observations. Painted Bunting ◊ Passerina ciris This gorgeous litle bird showed well on several occasions.

Dawn at Rio Lagartos (Mark Van Beirs)

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A delightful Northern Raccoon (participant Rainer Kopa)

MAMMALS Yucatán Black Howler Monkey Alouatta pigra Great looks at a female and her young at Calakmul.

Geoffroy’s Spider Monkey; Warning sign for bats near Calakmul (Mark Van Beirs)

27 BirdQuest Tour Report: The Yucatan Peninsula 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Geoffroy's Spider Monkey (Black-handed S M) Ateles geoffroyi Several performed well at Calakmul. Central American Agouti Dasyprocta punctata Several sightings at Calakmul. Deppe's Squirrel deppei A single observation at Calakmul. Yucatan Squirrel Sciurus yucatanensis We saw this large squirrel at Sian Ka’an and at Calakmul. Grey Fox Urocyon cinereoargenteus Perfect views of this smart creature at Calakmul. White-nosed Coati Nasua narica We observed this cute mammal on Cozumel and at Calakmul. Northern Raccoon Procyon lotor Marvelous sightings of foraging on our Rio Lagartos boat trip. Collared Peccary Pecari tajacu Two were seen on a Cozumel golf course. White-tailed Deer Odocoileus virginianus A doe crossed the road at Calakmul.

REPTILES Black Spiny-tailed Iguana (Black Ctenosaur) Ctenosaura similis Regular sightings. Impressive. Morelet’s Crocodile (Mexican C) Crocodylus moreletii Several were seen at Rio Lagartos.

The group at Calakmul (Mark Van Beirs)

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