ST. THOMAS DELIVERS! See Story on Page 14 TIM WRIGHT BARBARA WARDEN AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

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AUGUST 2007 NO. 143 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

ST. THOMAS DELIVERS! See story on page 14 TIM WRIGHT BARBARA WARDEN AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

JACK FOARD Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane Legendre Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution - Gladys Jones Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Bob and Judi Goodchild Tel: (473) 443-5784, [email protected] Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Distribution - Wayne Barthelmy Ad Sales & Distribution - Giselle Sankar Cruising Kids’ Corner ...... 32 Dolly’s Deep Secrets...... 32 All Ashore… ...... 33 Cooking with Cruisers...... 37 Readers’ Forum ...... 39 Classified Ads...... 44 Advertisers’ Index ...... 44 Calendar...... 46 [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 634-2055, Fax: (868) 634-2056 [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448, [email protected] Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 [email protected] Martinique: Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 584-1292, [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/St. Kitts & Nevis: Distribution - Eric Bendahan (599) 553 3850 Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 Rainforest Fear Dread defied in Dominica ...... 36 Cruising Blues Anchorages being edged out?....42 Big Gulp! Swallowing the anchor...... 29 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the ISSN 1605 - 1998 DEPARTMENTS www.caribbeancompass.com AUGUST 2007 • NUMBER 143 AUGUST 2007 • NUMBER is published monthly by We support free speech! sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. ©2007 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. Distribution - Hubert J. Winston, Distribution - Norman Faria Distribution - Cees de Jong Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch

Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 774-6657 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 426-0861 [email protected] Curaçao: Tel: (5999) 767-9042, Fax: (5999) 767-9003, [email protected] Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, 24 Victoria Street, Roseau, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Caribbean Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. Business Briefs...... 6 Regatta News ...... 9 Destinations ...... 14 Eco-News...... 16 Meridian Passage ...... 18 Sailors’ Horoscope ...... 30 Island Poets ...... 30 Cruising Crossword ...... 31 Caribbean Compass Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected] Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] JULIA BARTLETT JULIA DEAN BARNES DEAN Old Time Island What’s new in Carriacou?...... 21 Cayuco Jungle Ride Panama’s other canal ...... 24 Caribbean Optis Record-setting youth regatta ....11 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Look at Sea Monthly The Caribbean’s —Continued on next page & Updates

12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 Frank Bozarth Virginia Beach, Virginia USA “Your articles far surpass other www.caribbeancompass.com Join our growing list of on-line subscribers! Same price, same content — faster delivery! sailing magazines!” Commodore Escrich (at left) receives the fishing rod with which Fidel Castro won Commodore Escrich (at left) receives the fishing rod with Tournament in 1960, Havana’s 11th Ernest Hemingway International Billfish from Captain Arocha Cover Photo: Barbara Warden Honeymoon Bay, St. Thomas delivers! Visitor Safety and Security Discussions Held representation of the Yacht The Caribbean Marine Association (CMA), through the the Antigua & Barbuda Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT) and and Security Network Marine Association (ABMA) participated in a Visitor Safety Trinidad, on July 5th Policy Dialogue held at the Cascadia Hotel in Port of Spain, of Caribbean States and 6th. The event was organized jointly by the Association (ACS) and Caribbean Hotel Association (CHA). tourism industry with regard Discussions were held among various stakeholders in the to be implemented at a to safety and security problems and possible solutions to meet representatives of regional level. Stakeholders were given the opportunity and local and regional law national and regional associations, ministers of tourism, and suggestions for enforcement officials to discuss specific needs, challenges the tourism stakehold- improving visitor safety and security. The group representing General Manager of YSATT ers and ancillary services was led by Sharon McIntosh, and Manager of the CMA. France, Italy, Russia, the Cayman Islands, the Bahamas and Switzerland on the France, Italy, Russia, the Cayman Islands, the Bahamas occasion of the Club’s 15th anniversary, May 31st. HIYC with the fishing In honor of the event, Captain Julio Arocha Garrido presented he won first prize by catch- rod used by the Cuban President Fidel Castro Ruz when in 1960. That tournament ing five marlin at the Ernest Hemingway Billfish Tournament last Ernest Hemingway Billfish was the only time Castro and Hemingway met and the rod will be displayed in the Tournament in which Hemingway would participate. The most treasured mementos. club’s headquarters at Marina Hemingway as one of its by hosting Optimist, kayak, In addition to a reception and party, HIYC celebrated rowboat and windsurfer races, and a conference on sportsfishing. Europe, the US and the HIYC hosts a number of long-distance sailing events from children from the Lesser Antilles, as well as local regattas, and has sponsored youth regattas such as Academy of Nautical Sports of Havana to attend regional Schoelcher Week in Martinique. For more information contact [email protected].

Cuban Yacht Club Celebrates 15 Years Cuban Yacht Havana, Cuba, Yacht Club (HIYC) of of the Hemingway International The members to hundreds offered a warm welcome José Miguel Diaz Escrich and its Commodore from Spain, and delegations the Cuban government, diplomats, of guests from Info AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 el 473-409-2264 Manager Jean-Yves Rouseré • @:[email protected] • Cell: 473-439-4913 • Tel/FaxOffice: e-mail: [email protected]/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527(evenings) (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) Located oppositeG.Y.E. Come inandseeusforallyour SAILS &CANVASSAILS VHF: ch VHF: [email protected] OR EMAIL: OR EMAIL: www.boglesroundhouse.com For moreinformation,For moreinformation, visit: visit: OR EMAIL: OR EMAIL: For moreinformation,For moreinformation, visit: visit: BIMINI &DODGER C on including ta GRENADINES JYA atSIMBoatyard,Prickly Bay,Grenada c 1 t 6 us

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Caribbean OneDesignKeelboatChampionships This year,ateamfromGrenadacompetedforthefirsttimeinSt.Maarten’s GSA SummerProgramme, helpingtotrainyounglocalsailors. the vocationaltraining instituteNEWLO.Thetraineeinstructors willalsotakepartina candidates willalso undertake aboatrepairandmaintenance trainingcourseat work; practicalsailing andsailinginstruction;safety rescue techniques.The Stephens. Thecourse includesplanningandtheory;presentation andclassroom Bruno —willundertakeanintensiveprogramme ledbyGSAInstructorNick Programme. Threelocalsailors—KevinBanfield, MichaelMcQueenandVaughn funding fromtheGrenadaOlympicAssociation throughitsTalentIdentification development wastheinitiationofanInstructor TrainingCourse,madepossiblewith making, particularlyinitsYouthSailingProgramme. Sheannouncedthatthelatest In handingovertoRuss,Jacquihighlighted theprogressthatAssociationwas as Secretary. James Benoit,representingGrenadaYacht Club,asVicePresidentandSarahBaker Jacqui willremainontheAssociation’sexecutive inthepositionofTreasurer,with Pascall ofHorizonYachtCharters,whostepped downafterthreeyearsinthepost. Bay Resort&Villas,atitsrecentAnnualGeneralMeeting.HetakesoverfromJacqui The GrenadaSailingAssociationelectedanewpresident,RussFieldenofTrueBlue Grenada SailingAssociationontheMove Señor LeVrierwillpostupdatesatwww.bocasmarina.com. of allowingairportImmigrationofficialsonIslaColóntorenewcruisers’visas. way fromBocasTownonIslaColón.AttheJuly12thmeeting,ideawasraised town ofChanguinolatorenewvisas.isoveranhour’sjourneyeach in thepopularcruisingareaofBocasdelToroitiscurrentlynecessarytovisit until fiveyearsago,butthegovernmentisnowawareofitspotential.Ifyourboat The boatingindustryinPanamawasalmostnon-existentoutsideoftheCanalZone United States,CanadaandcertainEuropeancountrieswillbeamongthoseexempt. ther 60days)currentlybeingissuedtonon-yachtingtourists.Itisanticipatedthatthe 30-day touristvisas(renewableattheImmigrationDepartment’sdiscretionforafur- in thenextfewweekswhichwillidentifycertaincountriesthatbeexemptfrom A specialresolutionhasbeenpassedandisexpectedtobesignedbythePresident shown whentheycheckintoBocasorotherPanamanianports. Marinos fromtheirportofentrybeforerelinquishingitsothatthecopycanbe Señor LeVrierrecommendsthatcaptainsphotocopytheirzarpe/Permisode is inPanama. stamped everymonth,butbydoingthisyoucanstayaslongtheship Assembly reconvenesinSeptember.Thevisaconsistsofabookletthathastobe same visaascommercialcrewsandthiswillcontinueatleastuntiltheNational At themomentcaptainsandcrewsofprivatepleasurevesselsarebeingissued regarding visasforcruisers.Hereportedthefollowinginformation. five othermarinaownersinPanamaCityonJuly12thtodiscussthecurrentsituation Marina inPanama,attendedaninformalmeetingwithagovernmentministerand Julia Bartlettreports:PabloLeVrier,oneoftheownersBocasYachtClub& Panama VisaChanges [email protected]. For moreinformationcontacttheCaribbeanMarineAssociationat partner withintheregionalframeworkoffutureSafetyandSecurityNetwork. order toprovidecontinuingparticipationintheprojectandwillseekbecomea holders. TheCaribbeanMarineAssociationwillcontinuetoliaisewiththeACSin ever, therewasmuchconsultationandfeedbackprovidedbyothertourismstake- The firstphaseofthisprojectwasfocusedontheneedshotelindustry,how- security network.Weawaittheresultsoftheirdiscussions. and formulatedanActionPlanfortheimplementationofaregionalsafety judicial sectors.Theysoughttoprioritizeissuesinneedofthemosturgentattention On July7th,aclosedsessionwasheldforhigh-levelofficialsinthetourism,legaland (hotels, marinas,beaches,etcetera)mustcomplywithbasicstandardsforsafety. players inthetourismindustrybyotherstakeholders;standardsforfacilities dards forallareasoftourism;recognitionandsupportcertified,standardised • ment officialstodealwithresponseandfollow-upofcrimeagainsttourists and countries;increasedsignageonroadsattourismsites;dedicatedgovern- by victimsofcrimetoauthorities;sharingstatisticsanddatabetweenagencies • products/services; increasedcommunitypolicing • services were: Some oftherecommendationsmadebystakeholdersandancillarytourism a whole,andthereistheneedtoaddressthisthroughcoordinatedregionaleffort. crime againstavisitorhadfar-reachingnegativeconsequencesfordestinationas very lowprobabilityofatouristbeingvictimcrime,itwasnotedthatserious tors. Crimesagainstthepersonwereapproximatelyonepercent.Althoughthereisa with robberyandlarcenyaccountingforalmost90percentofallcrimesagainstvisi- Participants learnedthatpropertycrimesagainsttouristswerethemostprevalent, frompreviouspage —Continued Industry standards–development,implantationandenforcementofindustrystan- Communication –collaborationamongalltourismstakeholders;communication Community involvement–throughlocalawareness,ownershipoftourism —Continued onnextpage —Continued AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 at , Carib Finisterre National (1966)…. Islands to —Continued on page 46 . This was the herald of . This was the , a 46-foot Alden ketch, on a , a 46-foot Alden was the only yacht in any harbor Carib : “Yachting in the English-speaking : “Yachting Isles of the Caribbees Carib , producing first articles for the magazine ) and sailed throughout the Eastern throughout sailed ) and , is astonishing. To have done all he did to , is astonishing. To have done Compass Islands to Windward Malabar XII Malabar 1999 the December Dey wrote in Richard Caribbean. issue of modernity until into did not accelerate West Indies and journalist photographer when an unknown 1947… the Lesser Antilles sailed up Carleton Mitchell named chronicle of and wrote an amazing in a 46-foot ketch his trip, It was the islands as we know it now…. sailing among arguably a brilliant career for Mitchell, also the start of yachtsman. [H]is association the greatest American boats, spanned five decades, four with the islands each with revised editions. and two books, of Spain to up the islands, from Port “…Mitchell sailed of 1947. He four months in the winter Annapolis, over had shipped the sailed the boat the previ- steamer to Trinidad, having and Greater ous winter among the Bahamas Antilles…. The result of the voyage, Windward of such high quality, in produce the book, and a book of a small yacht is nothing so little time from the deck short of incredible…” white, the full- and half- “In both color and black and (22 x 28 cm) book cap- page pictures in the oversize were at the end of colo- ture the West Indies as they To see nialism, on the eve of redevelopment. anchor with only local sloops and schooners for com- anchor with only local sloops alone in English pany in Admiralty Bay or utterly dockyard is to get some Harbor off the abandoned over the last half of idea of how yachting has grown the century. between Grenada and Saba; only once, in Castries, between Grenada and Saba; Much might be made of did he encounter another…. to be the bridge from Mitchell’s cruise, showing it to a common one, the yachting as a unique pastime fulcrum between the colonial past of the region and its independent future. “[Mitchell made] a second investigative voyage in 1965. This time he was in the 38-foot yawl with which he had won three Bermuda races in suc- cession. He was again working for the Geographic (the articles were subdivided by island group), and then a book, (John Alden’s Carib . After a short stint in the retail busi- Temptress given the option of using a mooring buoy as part of as buoy a mooring of using the option given the anchors and using their own system; their mooring Bay. at Marigot in the Marina or berthing mangroves; the measures, preparedness of these hurricane As part for use requirements additional has also outlined Marina laying at least which include moorings of the SLASPA scope; anchor at maximum available one additional ring with a boat to the mooring buoy attaching their length of chain or high-strength minimum ten-metre not to the size of the boat but rope appropriate diame- diameter (for chain) or 24mm exceeding 13mm that the buoy or nylon rope. This ensures ter for polyester and that weaker than the buoy system attachment is of scope. sink the boat through lack the buoy will not at right positioned, as far as practical, Boats should be mangroves. line of the shore or angles to the adjacent is only by permission of the Berthing in the Marina itself will only be granted to Marina at Marigot Bay and liability for any damage boats that carry third party Marina or other boats. that might be caused to the will apply. Normal check-in and charges damage to the man- “In order to avoid environmental will apply only grove system, the above arrangements warning and for 48 hours for the period of a watch or there is a significant risk thereafter unless it is clear that weather system due to from a named or numbered days,” Hathaway said. strike in the following seven all local boat operators “We certainly want to assure captains of yachts visiting and yacht owners, and the a tried and trusted St. Lucia, that Marigot Bay remains do all in our power to hurricane hole and we will he added. ensure this remains the case,” For more information visit www.marigotbay.com. Eight Bells CARLETON MITCHELL Noted yachtsman, writer and photographer Carleton Mitchell died on July 16th at his home in Key Biscayne, Florida. He was 96. Born in New Orleans in 1910, Mitchell dropped out of Miami University in Ohio in 1932 to sail aboard a yacht called ness, he moved to the Bahamas, became a self- taught photographer, and worked as a publicity photographer for The Bahamas Development Board. In 1946 Mitchell purchased See report on this See report on ) The trip was made ) The trip was Marigot Bay Okay in a Storm St. Lucia, has issued a The Marina at Marigot Bay, that the new moor- statement reassuring boatowners will not obstruct boats ing buoy field in the inner bay should a tropi- from seeking shelter in the mangroves the island. The field of cal storm or hurricane threaten by the marina earlier this 20 mooring buoys was laid Air and Sea Ports year on behalf of the St. Lucia from the St. Lucia Authority following approval Development Control Authority. been used as a hurri- Marigot Bay has traditionally to Marina at Marigot Bay cane shelter and according number of measures will Manager, Bob Hathaway, a can continue to be be adopted to ensure the bay by the new per- used as a safe haven unhampered manent mooring system. for tropical The new moorings are not warranted storm or hurricane force winds and could sink boats moored to them due to snatch loads and the lack of scope on the riser chains in the event of a high storm surge. For this reason all boats occupying these mooring buoys will be asked to vacate the mooring or use it as part of their stern or bow mooring system in the mangroves. All buoys which might obstruct free anchoring will then be removed by Marina staff and the chains dropped to the bottom of the bay. Hathaway said as boats arrive in the bay, they will be event in Regatta News, page 9. event in Regatta Geo. from Bryden & Minors; possible with sponsorship St. Ltd.; Horizon Yacht Charters, F. Huggins & Co. Terry Neilson. Maarten; and continue Sailing Association plans to The Grenada in initiatives to develop sailing these important for would like to thank its members Grenada, and support in the future. their continued Jacqui Pascall at (473) For more information contact 456-0914. 439-1000 or Sarah Baker at —Continued page from previous the membership: good news for also more There was by two was represented first time Grenada for the Design Keelboat One in the Caribbean adult crews Maarten. Robbie in June in St. held Championships and of Patrick Brathwaite led a crew Yearwood by and Mark Solomon was joined Lawrence Tod, and Brian Sylvester. ( Kevin Banfield AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, cnyeBros.Ltd. McIntyre EQUIPMENT MARINE SERVICE SPARES (DUTY FREEPRICES) ENGINES KMRN TEL: (784)4571806FAX:4561364 TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL Y AMAHA MA Located CALLIAQUA,St.Vincent email: [email protected] PHONE: (473) 4443944/1555 E-mail: [email protected] PAIE opposite Howard’sMarine Outboard Engines2HP-250HP Duty-Free EnginesforYachts FAX: (473)444 2899 P.O. Box17,Kingstown Parts -RepairsService R INE DISTRIBUTOR LTD company, alsobasedinRodneyBay. and accommodationbyUlrichMeixnerof DSLcharter with printouts availableforboth customer,mechanic Adjustments arefacilitated courtesyofa“palmpilot”, this includedcompression, fuelandexhaustemissions. ing correctingfaultcodes generatedbytheengine; ed byatheory/computer diagnosticsegmentinclud- H63 marinegearbox. Practicalworkwascompliment- tled andthenre-assembledausedengine andan completed ahands-onsectionwherethey disman- least, BengtGustafsssonledthecourseand thetrio Legendary, inthefieldofVolvodieselmechanics at (of course),HubertSonson. skippered bychartercaptainanddiesel mechanic yacht, friendly D3/D4Volvomarinediesel.A35-foot Bavaria for aseven-daytrainingcoursebasedon theeco- fellow St.LuciansAlwinAugustinandHubertSonson In June,CharleswasaccompaniedtoMartiniqueby with Volvo’shelpofcourse. a firstforRodneyBay.”That’spromisehe’skept, we’ll offerfullserviceforVolvoPentamarineengines, director, EgbertCharles,promised,“Inthenearfuture the VolvoPentamarinefamily.Marintek’smanaging located atRodneyBay,St.Lucia,waswelcomedinto Marintek, anelectricalandrefrigerationworkshop Max Krowdrahreports:Atthebeginningof2007, St. LuciansCompleteVolvoMarineTraining For moreinformationseeadonpage23. in theyard,andsecurityis24hoursaday,everyday. on site.Electricityandwaterareavailabletoallboats with amajorchandlery,sailloft,restaurantandmore SIMS isaconvenientlylocatedfull-serviceboatyard, storage seasons.” look forwardtomanyupcomingsuccessfulandsafe storage toyourboatsandpeaceofmindyou.We Marine Servicesarededicatedtobringingsecure ration eachboathastaken.WeatSpiceIsland storage sectionsdependingonthedegreeofprepa- all boats’tie-downs,weldedchocksandseparate companies’ specifications.Thisincludessteelcradles, ods havesincebeenupdatedtoallmajorinsurance were abletolearnpositivelessons.Ourstoragemeth- have treatedthisasanexperiencefromwhichwe aware ofthis,aswetoofeltthefullimpact,but hurricane’s force.WeatSpiceIslandMarinearefully ry, especiallythosewhoexperiencedthebruntofthis years agoitisstillfreshinmanyayachtsman’smemo- “Though theinfamousHurricaneIvanpassedthree secure storageatalowdailyrate. their specifications.Ourrecentlybuiltmastrackoffers you speaktoyourinsurancecompaniesregarding optional, andthoughwerecommenditdoadvise during thesummerstorageseason.Mastremovalis to offercustomersreasonablypricedmastremoval says, “Byinvestinginourowncranewearenowable can handlemastsupto80feet.SIMS’JustinEvans on thesouthcoastofGrenada:a20-toncranewhich new mechanicaladditiontotheirpopularboatyard Spice IslandMarineServicesisproudtoannouncea 20-Ton CraneforSpiceIslandMarine,Grenada BRIEFS BUSINESS Out ofSight , wassuppliedforbothtransport Out ofSight was www1.ft10class.info/index.htm and For moreinformationonFlyingTigersvisit the FlyingTigerperformsintradewinds! the WindwardIslands.Bettheycan’twait toseehow Yachts, oneofthefirstyachtchartercompanies in In the1970sBillStevensownedandran and otherBillStevens’boatsattheHanshengfactory. China fouryearsagotooverseeproductionofthis Compass’s Guide toVenezuela Jeff FisherofGrenada,whoco-authoredthe The FlyingTigeralreadyhasCaribbeanconnections. it toAntiguasoonafter.” We willassembletheboatatBobby’sMarinaandsail owner/operator Island GlobalYachting(IGY). coming together,”said AndrewL.Farkas,CEOof Thomas andthemanner inwhichthedevelopmentis that weareexperiencing atYachtHavenGrandeSt. Phase II.“Weareincredibly pleasedwiththesuccess construction andwillimmediatelycontinue oninto Grande St.ThomasmarinaisfinalizingPhase Iofits Having openedinMarchofthisyear,Yacht Haven Yacht HavenGrandeSt.ThomasFinalizes PhaseI www.sailinganarchy.com/forums/index.php?showforum=15. foot containerasthisissueof ber 42isscheduledtoarriveinSt.Maartena40- will beallovertheCaribbeaninfuture.Hullnum- Caribbean. Iamsurethatthisveryaffordableboat ordered thefirstFlyingTigertobeshipped Sven HarderofAntiguatells soon willhittheCaribbeancircuit. America andAustralia,aswellChina,very Today, FlyingTigersareactivelyracedinNorth boat. Theywereallwrong.” did wewouldbeputtingoutapoorlybuilt,‘cheap’ that wecouldbringthisprojecttorealityandif early daysoftheproject…Therewasrampantdoubt Perry adds,“TherewasalotofChinabashinginthe dred boats. tributed ideassoonresultedindepositsforoverahun- The conceptofincorporatingthebestfreelycon- yacht building.” process thatIthinkisuniqueinthehistoryofAmerican the design.Thisopenedfloodgateandstarteda readers contributeideasthatwouldhelpmesolidify Sailing Anarchywebsite[www.sailinganarchy.com] without thinkingmuchaboutit,Isuggestedthatthe design atthatpointwerepreliminarydrawings…Then of thedesign.Unfortunatelyallthatexisted was soonpepperedwithquestionsastothespecifics outboard rudder…Interestinthedesigngrew[and]I drew alightandfasthullwithliftingbulbkeel ten metersastheoveralllengthwewouldworkwith.I ed 30degreesitfittightlyintothecontainer.Billchose the beamofboatsothatwhenwastilt- tainer forshipping.Formethatmeantmanipulating idea wastodesignaboatthatwouldfitintocon- On theclassassociation’swebsite,Perrywrites:“The The firstonetoreachtheCaribbeanhasjustarrived. the nomineesforSailingWorldBoatofYear2007. Stevens atHanshengYachtsinXiamen,China,isamong design clubracerdesignedbyBobPerryandbuiltBill The FlyingTiger10M(FT10),anewten-metre,one- Caribbean’s FirstFlyingTigerforAntigua and toolsI’mconfidentVolvowillthriveinSt.Lucia.” attended intwoyearsandwiththebackup,training what he’sabout.“ThisisthethirdVolvocourseI’ve experience, andallwhichthatentails,Charlesknows practical andrelevant.”With16yearsofRodneyBay Charles describedthecourseas“comprehensive, and dealertoassesstheengine’sefficiency. original Grenadaislandagent,movedto with ChrisDoyleandwas Compass —Continued onnextpage —Continued Compass Caribbean circuit? pounce onthe — poisedto one-design racer The FlyingTiger , “Wehavejust goes topress. Cruising AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 . PM daily with one hour for and 1:30 PM PM to 5:00 AM Head firefighting officer for STCW’95 certification, Marco London (at right), with MSWI students in St. Maarten lunch between 12:30 The latest schedule of events for the Antigua Charter Yacht Show 2007 show is available at www.antiguayachtshow.com. who used to work for St. Maarten’s government fire department and who is already approved by the school, will conduct the first marine firefighting courses in Grenada and will teach interested local firefighters to take over his STCW’95 instruction job later on. A school-approved St. Maarten doctor will do the same for the first aid and medical courses. Along with the STCW’95 course, the Maritime School of the West Indies in Grenada will also offer sailing courses, RIB courses, Bareboat Captain licenses, Master 200 Ton Yachtmaster courses and others. The school will work in close cooperation with MAYAG and the Grenada Government. For more information visit www.MSWI.org. Brokers to Celebrate 25 Years at Antigua Charter Show The international Charter Yacht Brokers Association (see www.cyba.net) will celebrate its Silver Jubilee at the Antigua Charter Yacht Show this year with a gala cocktail party held at the Admiral’s Inn at Nelson’s Dockyard on December 7th. All charter brokers are welcome. The Charter Yacht Brokers Association now lists more than 70 members. For the past 46 years, a charter yacht show in Antigua has given brokers the opportunity to personally inspect yachts in the Caribbean charter fleet and meet their captains and crews, so the best possible matches can be made between clients and boats. Registration is now open for the 2007 Antigua Charter Yacht Show, which will run from December 5th to 10th. Early registration opens on December 4th, when the Captains’ Briefing will also take place. To accommodate all the yachts, the show will be hosted at three marinas: Nelson’s Dockyard Marina in English Harbour, the Falmouth Harbour Marina and the Antigua Yacht Club Marina. Yacht viewing hours are from 9:00 yachtsman Peter De Savary’s Port Louis Marina proj- Louis Marina Savary’s Port Peter De yachtsman offer has to that Grenada the opportunities ect and tourism industries. and to the yachting time ago,” a very long been to Grenada “We’d that the local knew already Veerle, “so we added we’ve But nevertheless were really friendly. people were driving Each time when we been overwhelmed. people to ask for directions, around and stopped it all. car and spend time to explain would run to the you in supermarkets, restaurants, All the employees island friendly. This is the way every name it, were its tourists. should accommodate from Peter with representatives “We’ve had meetings and and himself, the Marine De Savary’s company the of Grenada (MAYAG), Yachting Association Club and the Grenada Government, Grenada Yacht with open arms. I think that and they all welcome you Grenada has a bright future.” school is to have a small The aim of the new maritime classroom facilities, office in Port Louis Marina, and space in a building additional offices and apartment five-day MCA-recog- nearby. To instruct the official needs to find a certified nized STCW’95 course, MSWI instruction swimming pool where sea rescue can be taught. IYT instructor Lou Hoffman Class 4 Captain and official in Grenada while the will start up the first courses willing to become school will look for local people instructors at the school. firefighting instructor Marco London, a professional , with music by house DJ Maggie. PM New Shoreside Bar in St. Vincent Cheers Sports Bar and Guest House is now open, just opposite Young Island at one of the more popular yacht mooring spots on St. Vincent. If it’s just too much trouble to get back to the boat after a Black Pearl cocktail at Cheers’ open beach bar, or you want a night ashore to be sure to catch a flight from the nearby airport, Cheers offers seven rooms at affordable rates. There’s a barbecue every Friday night from 6:00 Yacht Harbor will remain busy year-round and can actually drive business to your other marinas. In the winter season, however, the limited number of facilities such as Yacht Haven Grande which can berth the megayachts returning to the Caribbean are a valued commodity and lead the nautical tourism industry in occupancy and revenue.” For more information visit www.yachthavengrande.com. —Continued page from previous yacht- a world-class St. Thomas as of “The renaissance has begun.” destination nautical tourism ing and intro- led by the II of the marina, of Phase Construction Club, is expect- on the Yacht of 25 slips fronting duction for the bookings month. Advance this ed to commence strong. season are reportedly 2007/2008 yachting world-class Yacht Haven Grande offers The Marina at black as high-speed in-slip fueling, amenities such up to 600 and waste oil removal, water pump-out security power, WiFi, 24-hour amps of three-phase for compliance, side-to berthing including full ISPS feet and beyond, and 18-foot-wide yachts up to 450 and piers. The marina services concrete docks laun- provisioning, catering, include comprehensive ships’ chandlery. dry, florist, and Grande, located in St. To complement Yacht Haven south coast, IGY also Thomas Harbor on the island’s Yacht Harbor on the east recently acquired American This full-service marina end of the island at Red Hook. 30 and 70 feet, and accommodates vessels between in the area. is one of the most active marinas standpoint, these two “Strategically from a business stated Jeff Boyd, marinas are the perfect marriage,” of Marina Operations. IGY Executive Vice President larger vessels do not stay “During the summer season, restrictions, therein the Caribbean, due to insurance Grande that cater to fore facilities like Yacht Haven a reduced occupancy, these megayachts will be at marinas like American while smaller craft and sportfish MSWI to Open Maritime School in Grenada The Maritime School of the West Indies (MSWI), head- quartered in St. Maarten, will soon open a second school in the region. It is hoped that an office will be open by the end of the year at the new Port Louis Marina, located in St. George’s Lagoon, Grenada. The MSWI is an International Yachtmaster Training (IYT) affiliated institution (see www.Yachtmaster.com) and has instructed hundreds of megayacht crew, day- charter crew and even coastguard personnel from St. Maarten and Curaçao, over the past years. Courses given in St. Maarten include the UK Maritime and Coastguard Agency (MCA) recognized STCW’95, Master 200 Ton Coastal, Offshore and Ocean, and several others for professional officers and crew, as well as recreational courses such as the Bareboat Captain’s course. MSWI is officially recognized by the government of the Netherlands Antilles, and the IYT and MCA courses are approved by 25 administrations worldwide. Principal of the school, Veerle Rolus, said that, during a recent two-week visit to Grenada, she was absolutely impressed with British entrepreneur and For more information, phone or fax (784) 457-4004. AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 ins andamenities,thenewlyrenamed recently pliedamongCanada’sAtlanticprovinces. where thevesselwillcall. tape inpermittingthetransportinganduseofvehiclesamongvariouscountries Meals wouldbeforsaleattheonboardcafeteria.Thefirmisworkingtoreducered he envisagesaUS$10to$15chargeperpersonnightforcabinaccommodation. pared toincreasingairfares.Althoughtheferry’sfeescheduleisstillbefinalized, a regionalsealink.Hepointedtoitsadvantages,forexample,valuemoneycom- al touriststotakeupwhathecalledthe“unique,excitingexperience”oftravelingon ports already,hedisclosed. some inPuertoRicoandVenezuela.Shippingagentshavebeenidentifiedseveral tion alongwithotherportsasthebusinessexpands.Hecitedports,such have anadditionalexportcarrier,Mr.Jamessaidthiswouldbeafutureconsidera- that Guyanesevegetableandfruitexporterscan to otherregionalcountries. pick upfruitsandvegetablestherefortransport Caribbean Rose tem wouldbeexpanded.Forexample,the ever pointedoutthattherouteofnewsys- commendable effortwentontherocks.Hehow- James declinedtogointodetailsofwhythat 1990s. ItwentoutofserviceinMarch2000.Mr. and MargaritaIsland,Venezuela,duringthe ing St.Lucia,Barbados,Vincent,Trinidad built inScandinavia,operatedonaroutecover- gap,” heobserved. previous ferrysystem.Wearenowrevisitingthe There istheexpression‘bridginggap’froma service. Ithinkexperienceisthekeytoitall. involved ifwedidn’tseetheneedforsucha said hewasenthusiasticabouttheproject. across fromthePortofSpaindocksinTrinidad, Mariner’s ClubBuildingonWrightsonRoad 55 vehiclesand400tonnesofgeneralcargo. seating arrangements.Additionally,the2,558-gross-tonnevesselcanaccommodate Steamship Agencieswhichrepresentsthevessel. this month,accordingtoGeorgeJames,theManagingDirectorofGlobal After aperiodofrefurbishinginNewfoundland,includinginstallationmorecab- The privatesectorinitiativeiscenteredonanex-Canadianferrywhichupuntil T In additiontothecargo,Mr.Jamesencouragesregionalpeopleandextra-region- Asked aboutplacingGuyanaontheroute,so The “I knowthiswillwork.Wewouldn’thavegot Mr. James,speakingathisofficeintheold The steel-hulledferryhasacapacitytocarry300passengers,bothincabinsand Windward ing thismonthofaferrysystemoutPortSpain,Trinidad. ing theEasternCaribbeanareashouldbeaddressedbyexpectedlaunch- he much-talked-aboutneedforapassenger/cargoseatransportsystemserv- would becallingatDominicato , aslightlydifferenttypeofferry Caribbean Rose

is duetoarriveinTrinidad NORMAN FARIA NORMAN link fortheislands create anaffordablesea Caribbean Rose the 300-passenger the Right: Formerlynamed such aservice’ says, ‘Weseeaneedfor Agencies, GeorgeJames, of theGlobalSteamship Left: ManagingDirector Regional Ferry haps tomoreports.” mentary toours,sinceIbelievetheyaregoingmuchfartherthanweandper- this tocomplementtheprivatesectorinitiative.“Ithinkitwouldbeverycomple- considered bytheregionalgovernmentbodyCARICOM,Mr.Jamessaidheexpected seafarers’ union. countries andMr.Jamessaidhehadnoobjectiontothembeingrepresentedbya in Kingstown,St.Vincent&theGrenadines.TheferrywillhavecrewfromCARICOM islands duringtheearly1960s. Caribbean governments-run regional ferryservicesincludedtheCanadiangovernment-donatedandEastern latter vesselsoperatedbythelateBarbadianCaptainAlbertSelby),previousinter- Asked aboutrecentnewsoutofPortSpainthatanewferryisbeingseriously Though theoperation’sheadofficeisinPortofSpain,ferrywillberegistered Aside fromthe Maritime Princess Due toStart aims to Windward , This Month and othereffortssuchasthe Federal Palm and Federal Maple by NormanFaria Stella SI which servicedthe and Stella SII (the AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 —Continued on next page Deloitte by the windward mark. the windward by Deloitte win the finish to run home to sailed the last Conyers and third second place, Deloitte took the event. Lane. helmed by George to Ogier, place went at Conyers, Eldridge, partner Guy At the prizegiving, team steering the Scatcliffe for young Bryshaun praised who very excited for our helmsman, to victory. “I was up-and- in the front rank of BVI’s young proved himself two years by driving us to the win after coming sailors the He was aggressive in claiming of placing second. boat in the starts and handling the pole position at exceptional the race course. He showed tight spots on comebacks us to several important maturity by leading not go well for us initially.” when things did for & Calder was awarded a prize Team Maples including each of the crewmembers, sportsmanship; least one race. novices, took the helm for at Carriacou’s Windward Cup Cup regatta for indige- Stick around — the Windward be held in Carriacou on nous Grenadines sailboats will weeks after the Carriacou August 18th and 19th, two Cup’s three-race for- Regatta Festival. The Windward courses, one for decked mat will feature two separate and longer), B (35 to 40 vessels in Classes A (40 feet and the other for open feet) and C (under 35 feet), In addition to prizes in “stern boats” in two classes. finishes the course for each class, every boat that award. For off- each race will get a participation will be available. island participants, accommodation like to make this regat- Organizer Billy Pringle says, “We’d event for the Grenadines, ta a signature end-of-season and racing skills.” showcasing local boatbuilding on page 16. For more information see ad Canceled Bahia Redonda Clasico 2007 The Bahia Redonda Clasico Regatta, usually held in the waters off Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela, in October, will not take place this year. Aruba’s Billfish Tournament Aruba’s 34rd International Billfish Tournament, hosted by the Bucuti Yacht Club, will take place November 2nd through 4th. First prize is US$10,000! For more information contact [email protected]. Multi-Island Race Set for November The fourth edition of the Course de l’Alliance regatta is set for November 23rd through 25th. This event takes racers from Dutch St. Maarten to St. Barths, on to Anguilla, and finally to French St. Martin. Organizers hope to top last year’s 23 entries. Registration will take place on the Thursday before the event at the Sint Maarten Yacht Club, a long-time supporter of the event. The skippers’ briefing will be held at the Spinnaker Bar & Grill just downstairs of the Yacht Club after registration. The entry fee of 150 Euros includes breakfast and din- ners for a crew of four; additional crewmembers can be fed for 50 Euros each. Registered boats are eligible for free dockage at the Marina Fort Louis at Marigot, St. Martin, but space is limited so make arrangements ahead of time! For more information visit www.coursedelalliance.com. saw Explorer Explorer to switch boats, allowing the races to keep a the races boats, allowing to switch fantastic sailing by some of the Caribbean’s best of the Caribbean’s sailing by some fantastic the alongside floating dock Teams used the sailors. Explorer pace. steady inno- considered an has been Sails Regatta The North regatta to be copied. This year the vative regatta turn heads. umpiring model that may introduced an to have a senior international The island is fortunate by coinci- of David de Vries and judge in the person Rob senior judge and umpire, dence, another on the island. the USA, happened to be Overton from which two designed a penalty system Together these existing rules and allows a combination builds on the between penalty system that is initiated of the existing on-the- well as one initiated by the competitors as are designed so that water judges. The penalty levels with participant- there is an incentive for compliance first try-out, the system initiated penalty calls. In this was that this highly worked well and the consensus close racing was saved competitive event with very relations that some- from the possible antagonistic level. times occur in regattas at this judges, the floating obser- Between the on-the-water racing by all 18 vation point, and the incredible a success and teams, this event was unquestionably to their schedule for the one that these sailors will add 2008 racing season. Services Winner 17-Year-Old Helms Financial Bryshaun Scatcliffe helmed Seventeen-year-old BVI sailor to victory in the team’s Team Conyers Dill & Pearman Services Challenge. third attempt to win the Financial in eleven IC24s on June This one-design event was sailed Tortola, BVI. 24th out of Nanny Cay Marina, in Paradise and spon- The event, organised by Racing sored by the BVI International Finance Centre, stars employees of companies within the BVI financial services sector. The participating teams were Banco Popular; Beacon Capital Management; Conyers Dill & Pearman; Deloitte; INTAC; Maples & Calder; Nerine; Ogier; RSM; Tricor; and Walkers. The teams met at the Royal BVI Yacht Club on the Friday preceding the event for the weigh-in, briefing and Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial (Epernay) N/V reception. Saturday was practice day and the battle began Sunday. A new rule this year allowed financial-service teams to engage the services of one or two outside sailors to improve their chances. This meant that many smaller companies were able to race competitively. Team Conyers, which came second in the 2005 and 2006 Financial Services Challenges, went into the final race tied on points with Deloitte. Helmsman Scatcliffe managed to win the pin end with great speed as they took off along the shore just off Nanny Cay. Andrew Waters, helming for Deloitte, started midline and looked to be in great shape finding clean air and the freedom to tack off when he wanted. As Conyers tacked back towards the fleet it became obvious that the committee boat end of the line had been favoured. Team Deloitte crossed comfortably and managed to get three boats between themselves and Conyers once the windward gate had been rounded. It all looked to be over until the two teams took opposite leeward marks and Conyers sailed a great final upwind leg to get ahead of aboard the floating observation point point observation floating the aboard

Lagoon, St. Maarten, over the weekend of June 16th and 17th. The first six races determined the Gold and Silver Fleets, and an additional 12 races determined the winners. In the Gold Fleet, last year’s winner, Chris Rosenberg of St. Thomas, USVI, from Team Vertical Yachts, gave an outstanding performance with four first places out of six races. Local St. Maarten sailor, Frits Bus, placed second with his Team Carib. Third place was awarded to the Stanton brothers, Chris and Peter, from St. Croix, USVI. In the Silver Fleet, first place went to Donald Stollmeyer and Team Bacchanal Boys from Trinidad & Tobago. Second place was awarded to Team Scuba Shop of St. Maarten, led by Simon Manley. Third went to Team Wadadli Too, led by Bernie Evan-Wong of Antigua. The all women’s team was led by Emma Paull of Tortola, BVI, who has been on the top women’s team for the past three years. Although unable to repeat their success at this North Sails Regatta, they placed second during their first race to make it into the Gold Fleet. Conditions on the water were ideal. Spectators

NEWS Caribbean Keelboat Champs Rosenberg Tops Caribbean Keelboat Championships The North Sails Bay 18 races sailed in the Simpson saw a total of REGATTA Once again, Chris Rosenberg and his St. Thomas team gave an outstanding performance AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 ing around4:00 Great BayandyachtswillracetoSimpsonBay,finish- Saturday willseetheyachtsstartingat10:00 thrown intheFortLouisMarinaparkinglot. captains andcrew,apartyforeveryonewillbe cent classics.Drinksandfoodwillbeavailablefor regatta, whichwillallowthepublictoseemagnifi- on thedocksatFortLouisMarinaMarigotafter ing totheFrenchsideofisland.Theyachtswillbe around 11:00 Friday willbethefirstracedaywithacoursestart and skippers’briefingonJanuary17th,2008. tration followedbytheofficialopeningcocktailparty race daysandfourparties.Theeventstartswithregis- 2008. Theprogramisspreadoverfourdayswiththree Regatta isscheduledforthethirdweek-endinJanuary that the3rdSt.Maarten-St.MartinClassicYacht Classic YachtRegattaorganizationhaveannounced West IndiesEventsandtheSt.Maarten-St.Martin Classic YachtRegattaScheduled 3rd St.Maarten-St.Martin frompreviouspage —Continued The startonSundaywillbeagainat11:00 same evening. accommodate press,sponsorsandinvitedgueststhe trated aroundTaloulaMango’s.AVIPlocationwill the regattapartywithlivebandwillalsobeconcen- front ofthebarandrestaurant.Eveningactivities (as lastyear)withTaloulaMango’s,startsrightin races willbeheldataround4:00 be offeredthefamousfreebeachbuffet.Localboat the publicwhileyachtowners,captainsandcrewwill Pasanggrahan RoyalGuestHousewillaccommodate afternoon. Aregattavillageonthebeachat course toGreatBay,wheretheywillarriveintheearly adedicatedprivate managementservice. Horizon Yacht Management . Horizon Yacht Management St. Martin Grenada Antigua AM PM out ofSimpsonBay,St.Maarten,rac- . Asecondlocalboatregattawill 599 544 3329 473 4391000 268 5624725 PM , incooperation Three managementservice onegreat locations, great AM AM out of on a [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Anguilla-registered classicschooner, Third timecouldagainbeacharmforRichardWest’s For moreinformationonPortLouisvisitwww.portlouis- held fromJanuary25ththrough29th. The PortLouisGrenadaSailingFestival2008willbe established internationalsailingevent. organizers saythiswillenhancethealreadywell- vide berthingfacilitiesforover300boatsandthe the event.ThePortLouisMarinawillbeabletopro- infrastructure forthesuccessfulstagingandgrowthof Additionally, PortLouiswillalsoprovidetheneeded next threeyears. make asignificantcontributiontothefestivalover Sailing Festival.Astitlesponsor,PortLouisGrenadawill marina, willbethenewtitlesponsorofGrenada have announcedthatPortLouis,Grenada’snewest Port LouisGrenadaandtheSailingFestival Port LouistoSponsorGrenadaSailingFestival For moreinformationvisitwww.ClassicRegatta.com. more attractive. Caribbean circuitforclassicyachtsbecomesever long-established AntiguaClassicYachtRegatta,the scheduled forFebruary(seeitembelow)andthe Together withanewclassicregattainGrenada defend histitle. St. MartinClassicYachtregattasaboard the firstplaceoverallintwopreviousSt.Maarten- sailing event.RichardWestfromAnguilla,whowon giving partyinSimpsonBaywillcloseoffthefirst-class A silentauction,awardsceremony,buffetandprize- start offtheGreatBaybeachonSunday. Charm III Charm III Technical Installations Secure Moorings&Dockage , will

Full ServiceMarinas www.horizonyachtmanagement.com ELS KROON ELS www.horizon-yacht-sales.com www.grenadasailingfestival.com/sponsors.htm Festival 2008.Forcompletelistofsponsorsvisit other sponsors’repsinatoasttoGrenadaSailing Danny DonelanofPortLouisMarina(center)joins next month! about theIRCDivisioninRolexRegatta2008 We’ve runoutofspace,sowe’llbringyouthenews Stay Tuned! ed intheJulyissueof Crédit Maritime in theTourdeGuadeloupe2007wasLucCoquelinon The overallthirdplacewinnerinRacing/CruisingClass Correction will beavailablesoonatwww.ClassicRegatta.com. plus schedules,program,raceinstructionsandcourses Registration forTheGrenadaClassicYachtRegatta afternoon followedbyaprize-givingparty. docks. Anawardsceremonywillbeheldinthelate George’s Harbourinaparadeandreturntothe sail backtoSt.George’s.Theyachtswillinto On SundaytheyachtswillleaveSt.David’sHarbourto all withalivebandisalsoscheduled. compliments ofBelAirPlantation.Abeachpartyfor and invitedguestsattheWater’sEdgerestaurant, coast. Afreebuffetwillbeofferedforparticipants will finishinSt.David’sHarbouronGrenada’ssouth Saturday’s racewillalsostartoutofSt.George’s,and general public. Friday nightpartywithalivebandwillbeopentothe organized startingat4:00 press andVIPs.Ifpossible,localworkboatraceswillbe buffet anddrinkswillbeofferedtoallcaptains,crew, coast andfinishbackinSt.George’s,whereafree Harbour. TheyachtswillsailalongtheGrandAnse On theFriday,startwillbeoutofSt.George’s opening party,ontheThursday. tion, followedbytheskippers’briefingandofficial The GrenadaClassicYachtRegattawillhaveregistra- Government, localhotels,marinasandbusinesses. Marine andYachtingAssociationofGrenada,the also workcloselywiththeGrenadaYachtClub, in Grenadaforseveralyears.WestIndiesEventswill Shipwrights Ltd.whoheldtheWoodenBoatRegatta days, isorganizedincooperationwithFredThomasof The GrenadaClassicYachtRegatta,withthreerace Grenada fromFebruary21stthrough24th,2008. a newClassicRegattaisscheduledtotakeplacein Martin ClassicYachtRegatta,haveannouncedthat West IndiesEvents,organizersoftheSt.Maarten- New ClassicRegattaAnnouncedforGrenada sailing Festivalvisitwww.grenadasailingfestival.com grenada.com. FormoreinformationontheGrenada Authorized dealers New andUsedYacht Brokerage , not Professional Delivery RoutineMaintenance Sofaia Parapharmacie Compass PM on GrandAnseBeach.A . as report- AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11

DEAN BARNES Marmaris Genoa NEW! newport - freeport voyage in fall 2007 Cherbourg La Rochelle Toulon Palma de Mallorca CALL FOR SPECIALS! Martinique Newport World Class Yacht Logistics Class Yacht World Freeport St. Thomas www.yacht-transport.com Left: Puerto Rico’s Fernando Monllor in the lead to take first place among 95 young sailors racing in St. Thomas. His team-mate Raul Rios later won the Optimist North American Championship, held in Mexico in July. a Above: Nikki Barnes of St. Thomas practiced five days week for 13 months straight to become Scotiabank’s Top Girl. She went on to win Top North American Girl at the Opti North American Championship, and as this issue goes to press she’s competing in the Opti Worlds in Sardinia Martinique to Palma – November Port Everglades St. Thomas to Newport – October Martinique to La Rochelle – December

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Monllor, age 13, said his secret to success was He adds, “I rounded the mark twenty-ninth in one Monllor also won the 13- to 15-year-old Red Fleet, Following a spectacular tacking duel in the last (reigning North American champ) following in second and third places overall, respectively. “great starts and covering the fleet right to the finish.” race. After that, I just told myself, ‘I’m fast’, as a way to psych myself to catch up. And, I relaxed. My coach helped me learn that. It helped.” while St. Thomas’ Nikole “Nikki” Barnes, who ended fourth in Red, took the Top Girl and Pete Ives Sportsmanship titles. race of the regatta against Christopher Williford, of Florida, St. Thomas’ Ian Barrows won the 11- to 12- year-old Blue Fleet by a narrow five-point lead after 12 races. RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES

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Yacht at Rest Yacht Scotiabank Regatta Highlights Regatta Scotiabank An A-level advanced fleet and budding Green Fleet The participants, all between eight and 15 years at the 15th Annual Scotiabank Caribbean International Optimist Regatta, held June 22 to 24 out of the St. Thomas Yacht Club in the US Virgin Islands, gave notice to the world that Opti sailing is thriving in the Caribbean. old, came from Curaçao, Trinidad & Tobago, Barbados, the British Virgin Islands, all three US Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, Cayman Islands, Bermuda, the US mainland from South Carolina to Washington State, and even Germany. Yet it was Puerto Rico’s Fernando Monllor who sailed to the top of the record-setting 95 entries, with his fellow islanders Raul Rios (reigning South American champ) and Ivan Aponte AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 first, aftersailinganOptimistforlessthanayear. cleaned upfirstandsecondplaces.ElliotVernontook mer SunfishWorldChampion,coachedfromakayak. and father,Cor,aninternationalsailingjudgefor- Just racedinBlueFleet,brotherArdsailedRed that’s whatItriedfor,”saidvanAanholt,whosebrother sickness. “Ilikebeingatthetop.SowhenIfeltbetter, enjoyed beingintheleadfirstdayspiteofsea- I did.” about mystrategybecauseIreallywantedtowin,and ning,” saidHackstaff.“TheseconddayIreallythought I reallyhatedthat.And,that’swhenOdillewaswin- got ablackflagthefirstdayforbeingoverearly.Boy, years-and-under WhiteFleetandhis11thbirthday.“I tions ontheregatta’sfinalday—awininten- frompreviouspage —Continued In thebeginners’GreenFleet,CaymanIslandsailors Curaçao’s OdillevanAanholtendedsecond,and St. Thomas’AddisonHackstaffenjoyedtwocelebra- responsibility forthemselvesandtheirdecisions.” tremendous skills,suchasleadershipandtaking events wehost.” Rolex Regattaforyachts,makingitoneofthelargest the numberofboatsalmostequalsourInternational ta overtheyears.It’sbecomebiggerandbetter.Infact, said, “We’reverypleasedwiththegrowthofthisregat- America’s Cup. by helping Rather, hisuncle,PeterHolmberg,wasmakingnews ta’s secondday.No,he’snotaddictedtocartoons. pulling himselfawayfromthetelevisiononregat- his firstScotiabankRegatta,buthadatoughtime ing newpeopleandtraveling.” “What IlikebestaboutOptisailingisgoingfast,meet- “This wasmyfirstinternationalregatta,”Vernonsaid. About OptimistsailingRiceadds,“Kidslearn Karen Rice,regattaco-directorwithCindyHackstaff, St. Thomas’GreenFleeter,KaiHolmberg,enjoyed that kayak?) son, Ard.(GeeCor,can’tyourigasailon van Aanholt,herewithhis13-year-old On-the-water judgingbyCuraçao’sCor Alinghi win itsfirstraceofthe2007 International Optimist Regatta 2007Winners 3) AlexandriaRich,St.Croix,USVI,53points 2) CamiloBernal,CaymanIslands,52points 1) ElliotVernon,CaymanIslands,37points Green Fleet 3) AntonioBailey,Bermuda,551points 2) OdillevanAanholt,Curaçao,492points 1) AddisonHackstaff,St.Thomas,USVI,440points White Fleet 3) EduardoAriza,DominicanRepublic,189points 2) ChristopherWilliford,USA,128points 1) IanBarrows,St.Thomas,USVI,123points Blue Fleet 3) IvanAponte,PuertoRico,77points 2) RaulRios,PuertoRico,64points 1) FernandoMonllor,PuertoRico,54points Red Fleet Nikole “Nikki”Barnes,St.Thomas,USVI,88points Top Girl 3) IvanAponte,PuertoRico,77points 2) RaulRios,PuertoRico,64points 1) FernandoMonllor,PuertoRico,54points Overall Scotiabank Caribbean AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 AINT PUERTO LA CRUZ,VENEZUELA PUERTO ANTIFOULING P THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE Zinc Anodes Plumbing Marine Paints Batteries Epoxy Antifouling SAILOR’S TIN FREE SINCE 1990 • REPLACEMENT PARTS & CHANDLERY MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS • PERSONALIZED ATTENTION BY OUR EXPERIENCED STAFF THE CRUISING ABC 3 ON AMER Le Marin Centre de Carenage 97290 Le Marin Centre de Carenage 97290 T XANADU MARINE: A TELEPHONE: (58) (281) 265-3844 FAX: (281) 265-2448 (58) E-mail: [email protected] Standby VHF Channel 72 E-mail: Standby [email protected] Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 [email protected] Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 CORNER OF MIRANDA & GUARAGUAO, CORNER OF MIRANDA DISCOUNTS ON ARTIGIANA BATTELLIARTIGIANA DISCOUNTS ON DINGHYS AND CARIBE NEW * Mercury * Delco * Underwater Metal Kit * Z-Spar * Cetol Marlin Bottom Paint Ancor Whale * * * Ritchie * Breeze Tempo * Teleflex Seachoice * Marpac * * Jabsco * Groco * Perko Flags Pumps * 3-M * Wix * Shurflo* Johnson Racor * * Orion * Sunbrella * Camp Zincs * Marine Padlocks * Starbrite Boatlife Supplies * Marinco * Garmin * Uniden * Canvaswork Vinyl * Clear Weblon System * Shields West * * Sta-lok * 316 SS Rigging * Cordage Apelco * Harken Charts lolaire Aqua Signal * Imray * Waterproofing Accessories * Dinghy

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, “Coaching is the life blood of the program and we are

Compass Spreads Optimism Spreads Sailing Program Program Sailing

The Optimist North American Championship 2005 was held in Tobago. Afterward, the national Opti association bought many of these boats to help get more local kids into sailing According to TTODA’s leaders, “Our vision is to extend the sport of sailing to chil- According to TTODA’s leaders, “Our vision is to extend challenging sport ide- “More than their involvement in a physically and mentally the public note that the per- Brochures which are part of TTODA’s introduction to to 11-year-old age group The only requirement for children in the specified seven- At eight feet long and with a single sail, the Optimist dinghy is sailed in over 110 The annual Optimist North American Championship Regatta was held at Pigeon Later that year, T&T’s Matthew Scott won second place in the Optimist World David Lewis tells True to Operation Optimist’s motto, “A new wave of hope… from a little sail boat”, For more information on Operation Optimist contact David Lewis at tel (868) 645-5522. Trinidad & Tobago has embarked on an ambitious program to spread the joy of ambitious program to spread has embarked on an Trinidad & Tobago youth development program run by the Trinidad Operation Optimist is a national were limitations involved in getting all of Trinidad to David recognized that there dren from all walks of life by establishing a series of Optimist Youth Sailing Schools dren from all walks of life by establishing a series of Optimist the ages of seven and 11 in coastal communities, where boys and girls between called an Optimist at mini- years can learn to single-handedly sail a little… dinghy mal cost to them or their parents. reside, we are convinced that ally suited to the coastal towns and villages where they our nation’s youth a foun- learning to sail at a young impressionable age will give behaviors that will chart their dation of knowledge, discipline, positive attitudes and course for more promising and hopeful futures.” paramount, whether the chil- sonal and social development aspect of the program is in competitive sailboat rac- dren involved simply sail for fun, decide to get involved the marine sector. ing, or ultimately are led to one of the many careers in is the ability to swim. Similar programs based on a proven international template developed by the International Optimist Dinghy Association (IODA) have been successfully implemented in IODA member countries worldwide. countries by over 150,000 young people. The Optimist dinghy is designed to teach children as young as seven years to sail, yet technical enough to hold the interest of a young teen. Optimist dinghy championship regattas are held in all six continents and a world championship is held each year. At the 2004 Summer Olympic Games in Athens, over 60 percent of the skippers and 70 percent of the medal-winning skippers were former Optimist sailors. Point, Tobago, in June 2005. This was the first time a Caribbean country had hosted the event. One hundred eighty-five Optimist sailors from 18 nations participated. Three young T&T sailors — Anthony Alkins, Matthew Scott and James Leighton — placed in the top ten in the Individual Event, and Trinidad & Tobago came fourth in the Team Event. Operation Optimist had the foresight to purchase many of the Optimist dinghies which had been brought to Tobago for the regatta. Championship 2005 held in Switzerland. project to underprivileged kids in coastal villages around the country. Swedish project to underprivileged kids in coastal villages around the potential locations. These experts came to Trinidad and made a survey of all west coast; Invaders include Point Fortin, Vessigny and Point a Pierre on Trinidad’s and Buccoo Village and Bay in Port of Spain; Las Cuevas on the north coast; launched on May 11th, 2007, Speyside in Tobago. Operation Optimist was officially opened in September, 2005. at Vessigny Beach where the program’s pilot school in the south of Trinidad near Today, the Operation Optimist program at Vessigny, at other sites. the Pitch Lake, is up and running while work is ongoing Trinidad & Tobago has won the bid to host the 2009 Optimist World Championships. TTODA is awaiting financial support approval from the government. continuing to seek funding for foreign coaches until we have developed our own. We have 60 boats in stock for immediate expansion and that will bring our total stock on the islands to approximately 150 Optimists. This means that we can have great local and regional regattas at a moment’s notice.”

sailing to children throughout this twin-island republic in the southern Caribbean. republic in the southern throughout this twin-island sailing to children and boasts world class racing yachtsmen especially, produces Although Trinidad, has active yacht service ports at Chaguaramas, sailing one of the Caribbean’s most for of the population as an activity for the local elite and been seen by the majority aims to change that. foreigners. Operation Optimist Association (TTODA) working together with the govern- & Tobago Optimist Dinghy is David Lewis, and the vice-president is Colin ment. The president of TTODA the Optimist program in Trinidad in 1991 after seeing Barcant. David initiated the while he was the President of the Trinidad & Tobago Optimist program in Martinique then, TTODA has used the Optimist boat to teach hun- Sailing Association. Since dreds of kids to sail at Chaguaramas. the and decided to get the government involved to take come to sail in one location T&T’s Youth Youth T&T’s AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 remote enoughthatI’veneverseenitpacked—often, palm trees,andafewricketythatchedshelters.It’s tered onthreesides,linedwithwhitesandybeach, remote littlesliceoutofparadiseisasmallcoveshel- practically nooneevercomeshere. these reclusiveandiconoclasticislandersmeansthat dwellers (theNewYorkorJerseyoftheregion)and connect betweenbusycommercialSt.Thomas carts insteadofcars.Thebasic,inherentpsychicdis- Island, becausemanyinsularnativesheredrivegolf docks), isliketheNantucketofCaribbean.No,Fire (yes, justtenminutesfromthedreadedcruiseship dinghy ridefromCrownBayorSt.ThomasHarbor here aretheonesyoushouldvisit.Fromyourboat. it. Howeverithappens,weappreciateitsmarvels,and Maybe we’vebeenherejustlongenoughtoappreciate the islandlongenoughtobeinureditsbeauty. we’re alittledifferent.Maybewehaven’tbeenaround but youhearitallthetime),myfriendsandI—well, an island20mileslongandaboutthreeacross, touch theoceanfromonemonthtonext(toughon ferent. WhileI’veheardsomelocalssaytheydon’t Why developaharboropentothetradewinds? into thecute,overpricedharborofRedHook.Ididtoo. — orrather,unsteadyswellperpetuallyrunning apiece. Orbangedyourshinsandheadinthesteady lithic cruiseshipsdisgorging3,000sweatingtourists anchored inSt.ThomasHarbornexttothreemega- Virgin Beauty–Really! And HoneymoonBayisthemostbeautifulspot.This Water Island,agorgeousanchorageorshort Honeymoon CoveatWaterIsland But whenyouknowwheretogo,St.Thomasisdif- Phone: +(5999) 4658936 Fax: 4658941 Email: [email protected] A New marinecenterpresentsthelatestDutchinnovationinboathandling equipment. Thomas. Yes,St.Iknow,you land istheVirginIslands’notoriousSt. part-time cruiser,oneofmymainbasesondry Or, St.Thomas:ARebuttal D D Curaçao Marine E E S S Hauling capacity45tonsandCatamarans upto33ftbeam. T T I I N N A A T T by BarbaraGailS.Warden I I O O N N Safe drystoragewith24hourssecurity We arelocatedinthesafeharbor ofWillemstad. AWLGRIP® indoorspraypainting S S and manyotherservices. - Long-termstorage. much toyourself Magen’s Baypretty have majestic weekday youcan side andonany island tothenorth but sailaroundthe crowded andcrazy, Amalie, mightbe town, Charlotte St. Thomas’smain wind cutoffbytheislandyoupracticallycoasttoa west open.Theapproachisdeadeasy,andwiththe shelter ofthebigrockheadlandsthatleaveonly winds: youcanrestsmoothlyatanchorunderthe the fewheretrulyprotectedfromprevailing it’s practicallyempty. Sailboats liegentlyinthisgreatanchorage,oneof www.curacaomarine.com ing newreleases.Gofigure. beach orfromyourboat—andnotoldies,butspank- sheet youcanwatchfrombothsides—the miss movienight,wheretheyrigagianttranslucent Boat todeliverpizzayourcockpit(really).Anddon’t gourmet dinnerunderthestars.OrradioPizza can dinghyinandreserveapicnictableformoonlit Thursdays) bythebeach.OnSaturdaynights,you amazing sloppyjoes(wait,Ithinktheareonlyon in atruckandgrillsburgers,hotdogs,truly day, Heidi,atransplantfrommainlandUS,drivesup for marinelife—fishingandsnorkeling.Duringthe headlands plungingintothewaterarealsoagreatbet stop inaperfectspotforyouranchor.Andtherocky weekday. Also,anydayafter4:00 here’s atip:Youliveonboat.don’twork.Go This fabulousbeachcanbecrowdedonweekends,but Magen’s Bay —Continued onnextpage —Continued PM is prettyempty. AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 Now I’ve headed back to spend the summer on Cape back to spend the summer Now I’ve headed As my friend John says, “Sooo, it’s not your favorite Former marketing executive turned sailor/freelance Festival, heard lively reggae, bought magic mush- magic bought reggae, lively heard Festival, and freshly dug icky — they’re (legal here, but rooms our slugs), and like black and taste… they look... The the beach. for a run along and I went friend Rosh ferry. We thought back on the we zoomed next day, hour (only another Virgin Gorda about going to briefly rock for- explore the wonderful natural or so away) to didn’t. Maybe secret pools there, but we mations and After all, it’s not far. another time. called from St. Thomas. Cod, but my friend Keith just He’s going diving this afternoon, probably on one of the wrecks off the south side of the island. Then he and some friends might head over to St. John to do some hiking and possible drinking while hiking in the island’s vast national parklands. After all, St. John’s only half an hour by ferry, an hour or so by sail. tropical island: it’s just got some amazing places, beautiful beaches, ever-changing population, and is surrounded by other beautiful tropical islands? Oh. Well then.” writer Barbara Gail S. Warden presently divides her time between adventuring in New England and exploring the Caribbean — and writing about it all. Instead, we met a small boy who showed us his baby And Surrounding Islands And Surrounding hour or we took off for Tortola, a mere And recently This is not your marina’s kiddy pool. A hike from Magen’s Bay takes you to Peterborg Point where an otherworldly landscape has tidal pools perfect for a secluded skinny-dip traversed trails (and changed tires). We found several traversed trails (and changed deserted beaches (Smith’s, and another that some of us thought was Smith’s but others thought wasn’t) and great hiking and mountain-biking trails. We talked off and on about diving out on the wreck of a giant old broken-in-two steel boat that sits just off the coast, half in 15 to 30 feet of water, half over the drop- off in 80 feet, but didn’t. chicken which had died that morning, and a small girl who showed us her baby goat (still alive). My friend Keith and I took turns holding the baby goat but no one touched the chicken. We met an old woman whose legs were speckled brown and white like the old Appaloosa of a friend of mine. The woman was scaling tiny fish for dinner, oblivious to about 200 flies buzzing all about her. We visited the Tortola Music pictures (the unusual clarity of the water gives a strik- gives the water of clarity unusual (the pictures I luckily realized water, which view below ingly clear to each and talking the photos), parents saw before my voices echo weirdly, to our listening other underwater, clear. yet perfectly and diminished drowned of us rent- a few hours by sail. Several so by ferry, or accessible drove down remote, barely ed an SUV and ditches and We jumped dirt dare-I-call-them-roads. Another film-worthy cove with palm trees galore, cove with palm film-worthy Another the (on the right from your anchor), At the far end mind a gentle, occa- If you anchor here (if you don’t Peterborg Point otherworldly spot is just This truly amazing, remote, except the dead depart- We saw no one. Not a soul, We spent about an hour in one tiny pool, a creation Magen’s is a bit more of a destination. On the north On the of a destination. is a bit more Magen’s are and rarely easy approach, it offers another coast, stunningly beautiful in this boats at anchor there other It’s and picnicking. for swimming spot and wonderful perfect for a times the size of Honeymoon, also about six with the packed sand at the waterline, sunset run along along the sides to cool off. nice snorkeling and church see are locals — families few people you One been coming here for generations. groups who’ve a gener- as I was getting up to leave, recent afternoon, and even lady with a striking bosom ously endowed the beach. strolled majestically across larger derrière belting out in water, she started Stopping thigh-deep of all ages materialized gospel like Ella herself. People behind palm trees, all from the sea, the beach, and lungs. Everyone just sud- joining in at the tops of their like falling into the mid- denly burst into song. It was I stayed another 20 dle of a South Sea island musical. minutes just to listen. the popular end of the sional swell), also don’t miss showers at the bath beach for free half-fresh/half-salt bar or the restaurant, house, lunch at the beachside shop. With a little luck, ice and souvenirs at the gift you might never need to leave. Bay. We hiked out here minutes from popular Magen’s just clambering over one morning and spent hours and lounging in absolutely rocks, scaling small cliffs, clear green water sur- unbelievable pools of startlingly rounded by rocks. ed souls of the crabs that are scattered all about, oddly high and dry from the ocean. Perhaps there is a magic in this place that attracts them out of their natural elements, and they can’t find their way home before they die on the sunny rocks. It feels magical… you could believe many strange tales here. of rock exactly like a deep Jacuzzi, with an entrance guarded by spiky black sea urchins. We floated in buoyant crystalline green water, did perfect somer- saults without touching the urchins, and rested our feet on the edge to float side by side, gazing at the sky. “This is what it must feel like in the womb,” said my friend. We contemplated this for a while, arms draped loosely about one another, sides touching, then added simultaneously, “For twins.” We took turns snapping —Continued page from previous AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 to findquietanchoragesfarfrom“TheMadding Crowd”. are notdescribedintheotherguides.Thisenables them anchorages thatarepopularwithbareboaters. pictures anddescribehotels,bars,restaurants and describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonly onesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, ARE MOREECONOMICAL! www.iUniverse.com andwww.seabooks.com Real sailorscircleinStreet’sGuidetheanchorages that Real sailorsalsobuytheotherguides,that have pretty Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor experience intheCaribbean,series’fourvolumes Carriacou BUY STREET’SGUIDES cover theEasternCaribbeanfromPuertoRico [email protected] at bookshopsand chandleries, orfrom Written byanauthorwith50yearsofsailing WITHOUT IT LEAVE PORT STREET’S GUIDES the coastofVenezuelatoABCs. Street’s Guidesare available REAL SAILORS down throughtheislandsand DON’T Bay bynaval architectBobHathaway, AlvinJean vessel, whichwasdesigned andbuiltrightinMarigot Her ExcellencyDame PearletteLouisy,christenedthe Marigot Bayshoreline. St.Lucia’sGovernorGeneral, numerous localbars and restaurantswhichdotthe Lucia’s westcoast,to anearbybeachandtothe guests fromDiscoveryatMarigotBay,aresort onSt. Sunshine Express Possibly theCaribbean’sfirstsolar-powered ferry,the Solar FerryLaunchedinSt.Lucia www.fundacionlatortuga.org. For moreinformationonFundacionLaTortuga visit lection inthearea,supportedevent. CONSERVA, thecompanyinchargeofgarbage col- The PoliceForceoftheStateAnzoátegui and and games. al, thenenjoyedaswimandanafternoonofsports al thatwasdulysortedandpackedforproperdispos- children collectedaround300kilosofpollutingmateri- presented byinadequatedisposalofgarbage.The who showedakeenunderstandingoftheproblems Oceans 2007,included14childrenagesnineto14, group FundacionLaTortugatomarktheMonthof The event,organizedbythenon-profitenvironmental Lecheria nearmanypopularPuertoLaCruzmarinas.. the beachesofVenezuelancoastalcity Fundacion LaTortuga,assumedthetaskofcleaning orphanage, togetherwiththeirstaffandmembersof In June22,thechildrenofCasaHogarDonBosco Venezuelan Kids’BeachClean-Up mes/Associated_Projects.html. For moreinformationvisitwww.cavehill.uwi.edu/cer- and CERMES. collaboration withtheSustainableGrenadinesProject for theConservationandStudyofCaribbeanBirdsin The RestorationProjectisimplementedbytheSociety the predictedresults. fisheries. Neverthelesstheprojectproceeded,with the bay,causingdamagetoreefs,seagrassesand and FrigateIslandwouldcutoffwatercirculationto ment’s constructionofacausewaybetweenUnion mental assessmentpointedoutthatthedevelop- marina, condominiumsandgolfcourse.Anenviron- accepted aproposalbydeveloperfor300-boat ignated aconservationarea,thegovernment birds. Despitethefactthatareawasofficiallydes- lations ofseabirds,waterbirds,shorebirdsandland- important habitatsforwinteringandmigratingpopu- lagoon andnearbyFrigateIslandalsoprovided seagrass beds)forfish,shellfish,andinvertebrates.The tats (includingcoralreefs,mangroves,mudflatsand Ashton Lagoononcehadarangeofimportanthabi- Studies (CERMES)attheUniversityofWestIndies, Centre forResourceManagementandEnvironmental approximately adecadeago.Accordingtothe struction ofamarinaprojectwhichwasaborted mental damagecausedbytheinitialphasesofcon- Island intheGrenadinesaimstoreverseenviron- The AshtonLagoonRestorationProjectonUnion as ecotourismandmariculture. nity’s visionforitssustainableusethroughoptionssuch Ashton Lagoonarea,incorporatingthelocalcommu- was thedevelopmentofarestorationplanfor a coastalengineer.Theaimoftheplanningworkshop land, birdlifeandcoralreefecologists;fishermen cials; local,regionalandinternationalmarine,wet- attended bycommunitymembers;governmentoffi- Catholic ChurchinUnionIsland.Thisworkshopwas was heldfromApril22ndto24thattheSt.Joseph’s The AshtonLagoonParticipatoryPlanningWorkshop Restoration forDamagedGrenadinesLagoon Caribbean Eco-News was launchedinearlyJulytoshuttle According toaJuly17reportin Hurricanes ChillOutStressedReefs [email protected]. For moreinformationcontact quiet, emission-freeboatstoothersintheregion. locally andtheteamsaysitcansupplymoreofthese cells, allthenecessaryskillandexpertisewasavailable team importedcomponentssuchasthephotovoltaic Pierre andZariousRene.Whilethelocalboat-building www.oceanconservancy.org. For moreinformation visit can onlybereached byboat. can beofparticular help bycleaningupplacesthat and othercoastalareas savesmarinelife.Boaters removed fromtheshoreline, beaches,mangroves make marinelitter—weshouldcleanitup! Trash become ahugeglobalvolunteereffort. Humans 2007. SponsoredbyOceanConservancy, thishas September 15thisInternationalCoastalCleanup Day International CoastalCleanupDayComing! mes/margov_profile.html. For moreinformationvisitwww.cavehill.uwi.edu/cer- from theInternationalDevelopmentResearch Centre. which hasbeenimplementedwiththeaid ofagrant Resource GovernanceintheEasternCaribbean” with theCERMESfour-yearprojecton“Marine 2007/2008. Thefellowshipandresearchareassociated scheduled tocommenceintheacademicyear by atwo-yearfellowshipandresearchgrantis in theEasternCaribbean.Thedegreewillbefacilitated degree whichfocusesonmarineresourcegovernance the CaveHillCampusinBarbadosisofferinganMPhil Management andEnvironmentalStudies(CERMES)at The UniversityoftheWestIndiesCentreforResource Eastern CaribbeanMarineResourceDegree much fartherawayfromthehurricanes,didnot. found thatallhurricanesandtropicalstorms monitoring projectatreefsofftheFloridaKeys.They He andhiscolleaguesuseddatafromalong-term might behelpedbythiscoolingeffect. reef thatwasclose,butnottootoastorm good forareef.ButManzellowonderedwhether Of course,adirecthitbyhurricanewouldn’tbe deep, withtheresultthatsurfacewatersgetcooler. Hurricanes’ intensewindsstircolderwaterupfromthe algae canrepopulatethecoral. unless thewatertemperaturereturnstonormaland food, bleachingcanleadtothedeathofareef, water. Becausealgaeprovidemostofthecorals’ stressed, mostcommonlybywarmer-than-normal symbiotic algaefromthecoral,occurswhenareefis benefit bleachedcoralreefs.Bleaching,thelossof Science, andhiscolleaguesthinkthathurricanescan Miami’s RosenstielSchoolofMarineandAtmospheric Derek P.Manzello,aresearcherattheUniversityof Islands reefs,whichwere pletely, whiletheVirgin recovered almostcom- found thatthesereefs reefs. Theresearchers passed neartheFlorida Hurricanes RitaandWilma Islands. Butthatfall, reefs offtheUSVirgin bleaching in2005,aswere reefs werehithardby center track.TheFlorida tance fromthestorm’s days, dependingondis- effect lastedupto40 250 miles.Thecooling storms thatpassedwithin degrees Fahrenheit)from tures ofasmuch5.5 drop inaveragetempera- with thegreatesteffect(a surface-water cooling, miles ofthereefscaused passed withinabout450 The NewYorkTimes , AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 , April 2005 —Continued on next page . AM Caribbean Compass Caribbean — Hugo du Plessis, — Hugo du If we’re going to be here, let’s be ready to be here, If we’re going Having seen a fleet of bareboats’ roller-furling jibs deploy in the middle of Having seen a fleet of bareboats’ Arriving early not only gives you a better spot but allows you to help everyone Arriving early not only gives you a better spot but allows When you go to climb around in the mangroves and secure lines, wear your When you go to climb around in the mangroves and Go around and talk to your neighbors. Get their addresses and contact infor- Go around and talk to your neighbors. Get their addresses Have a camera and take a lot of pictures of what everything looked like before Have a camera and take a lot of pictures of what everything It is important to remember that just because you got there first it doesn’t mean It is important to remember that just because you got We’re going to cram a lot of information into this August’s issue so that everyone into this August’s issue so cram a lot of information We’re going to helpful hints (and if you did, Gentle Reader, what- If you missed the last month’s hole Prepping the boat in a hurricane hole, here are some ideas about what to do besides Once you get to your hidey • Take everything off the deck: biminis, barbecues, propane bottles, outboards on Take everything off the deck: biminis, barbecues, propane • • • • • HURRICANE PREPARATION 2007 BY BRAD GLIDDEN BY BRAD 2007 PREPARATION HURRICANE Part Two: Part HIDEY-HOLE IN THE actually doing something about August, September can be thinking, talking and boat is in the water, your choices when a storm and October storms. If your local hurricane hole or to head away to where you hope approaches are to stay in a and then, choose to stay aboard or go ashore. the storm isn’t going to be; a review. You have identified where you are going ever were you thinking?), here’s gone there and scoped the place out. You have a good to go for shelter, and actually getting dark, blowing 30 knots, and there are 40 other idea how to get in, even if it’s a’comin’. You’ve looked at the harbor and feel con- boats in the harbour and more even if a six-foot storm surge thunders over some fident it’s sheltered from waves, cays. If you have to go to another island for shelter, you of the protecting reefs and days in advance of landfall of any storm. In addition are ready to jump at least two a two-week supply of any prescription medications and to food and water, you have in small bills. You have LOTS of mosquito repellent. a two-week supply of cash “We’re all going to die”. running in circles screaming Hurricane Hugo, I have been rather emphatic that people take their roller-furling Hurricane Hugo, I have been it, main too. Don’t expect an in-the-mast-furling main sails off. Jibs, and if you have to stay there for a storm. on deck but the lifelines and pushpits — everything! There should be nothing left the gel-coat. the storm, including where and how other boats were “secured”. If there is a fla- the storm, including where and how other boats were or disk; there may be law- grantly negligent operation around, document it on film poorly secured boat suits after it is all over. The owners/agents of an over-insured, one, two or more cruising (one of Don Street’s “bareboat bombs”) that wipes out by customary standards families should be made to own up to their failure to abide and practices of good seamanship. you will gash yourself on heaviest shoes! Who cares if they get wet? One slip and all over your boat for the mangroves or the barnacles growing on them. Bleeding hours is not the best way to ride out a storm. mation. Give them yours. See what you have that they may need, and vice versa. mation. Give them yours. See what you have that they Get everyone to agree to a VHF channel to monitor. that you have a right to take up the whole harbor. You can’t set your anchors or that you have a right to take up the whole harbor. You room. Boats are going to be spring lines to take up a 300-foot area; there just isn’t accordingly. Also, try very as crowded as if they are in a marina. Set yourself up In a bad storm, boats under hard not to line your masts up with the neighbors’. and you DON’T want to lock bare poles will be knocked down to rail in the water, your masts together. There will also be boats that else to intelligently cram the next two dozen boats in. If you have your act will be dropped off and left unattended and under-prepared. temporarily halted projec- together, you should take some time to deal with these tiles so they don’t come down on you at 2 Those involved were ordinary fish- Those involved were ordinary As in Bequia in the St. Vincent several observers in the Response several observers was Book — related, the industry place in much like what was taking the nearby Grenadines. ermen and small businesspeople another who saw the whales as just a liveli- fish whose catching meant table. hood and putting food on the the Grenadines, where International Whaling Commission catch recently renewed an annual whales, limit of four humpback started whaling in Barbados was of New by former crewmembers had England whaling ships which 18th visited the islands since the by Norman Faria by Norman Remembered

For more information phone (246) 426-6081, or e-mail: [email protected]. For more information phone (246) 426-6081, or e-mail: The Barbados Public Library staged a modest but significant reminder of the now but significant reminder Public Library staged a modest The Barbados lamented by no artifacts, an omission on posters — there were As the information It is not known how many whaleboats were stationed at each. No details are given It is not known how many was stiff competition among With a good market for the whale oil in England, there that, in 1912, ninety 30- The exhibition quoted a Barbados newspaper as saying baleen cleaned and cut to Also, bones were ground down to make fertilizer, the off Barbados’ coasts. But Whales, mainly humpbacks, are still sometimes seen located in the historic dis- *For those interested in history, the Barbados Museum, on Coleridge Street in The main branch of the Barbados Public Library is located Whaling in Barbados Whaling defunct whaling industry in Barbados in June at their Speightstown branch on the June at their Speightstown industry in Barbados in defunct whaling The com- whaling stations were located. of the island where the three northwest side during of the activities in Barbados was held as part mendable exhibition Fishermen’s Week. about their construction or type, only that they had sails and were manned by a crew about their construction or type, only that they had sails they must have been sim- of 14 men per boat. Based on the New England whaleboat, shows what appears to be a ilar to those used in Bequia. A painting of one of them of Bequia) and the gunter-rigged mainsail (rather than the sprit-sail arrangement harpooners used harpoons, crew paddling using a type of Amerindian paddle. The is what appears to be a brass and then a “bomb lance” for the coup de grace. There and said to be used by har- gun, of large calibre, exhibited in the Barbados Museum* pooners from a Speightstown station. passed a Fisheries the Barbados stations. In 1904, the colonial government stipulation on how profits Regulation Act governing such competition. It included same whale together. and expenses were to be split if two boats struck the pounds sterling per ton. gallon barrels of whale oil were sold in England at 13 make brooms and the meat consumed locally. watch them now rather the industry has long gone and only tourists and locals ago who were undoubt- than the spotters on the hills at the three stations a century Let’s go, boys. Looks to be a edly equally happy as they hollered: “Thar she blows! good catch today.” is worth a visit. It is a trict of The Garrison just outside the capital city of Bridgetown, if you pull your dinghy up 15-minute walk from the yacht anchorage at Carlisle Bay side of the hotel pier). For more on the beach in front of the Cruising Club (on the south information visit www.barbados.org/museum. Station. Bridgetown, near the Law Courts and the Central Police century. When Barbadians signed off as crew, they set up their own industry. In its signed off as crew, they set up their own industry. In century. When Barbadians of stations in or around the two west coast towns heyday, there were three whaling Speightstown and Holetown. AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 TYRREL BAYYACHTHAULOUT Fair tides! after itsrising,thetiderunswestward.Timesgivenarelocal. setting tojustafteritsnadir,thetiderunseastward;andfromnadirsoon reaches itszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward.Fromjustafterthemoon’s the eastsoonaftermoonrise,continuestorununtilaboutanhourmoon passage (orzenith)ofthemoonforthisandnextmonth,willhelpyoucalculatetides. Street’s GuidesandcompilerofImray-Iolairecharts,whichshowsthetimemeridian passage fasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDonStreet,authorof 01728 1642 1558 20 1517 19 1437 18 1357 (new) 17 1316 16 1232 15 1145 14 1054 13 0958 12 0859 11 0758 10 0657 9 0559 8 0505 7 0414 6 0325 5 0238 4 0150 3 2 1 TIME DATE August 2007 For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolairecharts. Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestartsrunning Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewillmakeyour MERIDIAN PASSAGE cruise throughSt.Vincent,GrenadaandtheGrenadines. Come alongsideoursplendidjettyandreplenishyour ENTERPRISE A steppingstoneasyou B &CFUELS Petite Martinique Welcomes youto For furtherinformationcallGlennClementor OF THEMOON supplies of Reynold Belmar.Tel/Fax:(473)443-9110 AUGUST &SEPTEMBER at thecheapestpricesinGrenadines. Call sign:“GolfSierra”VHFchannel16 FUEL, OIL,WATERandICE 1028 0940 0849 9 0753 8 0653 7 0552 6 0452 5 0354 4 0300 3 2 1 TIME 0208 DATE 0119 (full) September 2007 0029 31 0000 30 2340 29 2248 28 2155 27 2100 26 2004 25 1910 24 1817 23 22 21 ● ● ● ● ● ● New environmentallyfriendlyhaulout Chandlery Mini -Marina Do ityourselforlabouravailable Fuel Dock,Water 50-ton hoist,18ftbeam,8ftdraft Phone/Fax: 473.443.8175 E-mail: [email protected] CARRIACOU VHF: 16 00242 0142 (full) 0048 30 0000 29 2356 28 2306 27 2216 26 2126 25 2034 24 1941 23 1847 22 1753 21 1700 20 1610 19 1522 18 1437 17 1355 (new) 16 1314 15 1234 14 1154 13 1112 12 11 10 in alldirections and morelinestakentoadockseaward,givingmultiplepointsofattachment with firehosechafeguards,threeanchorssetonlongrodestoholdtheboatwelloff, Take photosofyourprepjob.Thisshotshowsamarinaoption:docklinestripledup —Continued frompreviouspage —Continued but steady recovery. screaming beforeand duringthestorm;afterwardsistimeto settledownforaslow be counter-productive; itcouldbedisastrous.Wedidallour runningaroundand lots ofworktodo;it willtakeawhiletogetitalldone.Rushing thingswillprobably primordial soupofbacteria floatingaroundjustwaitingtoinfect you.Therewillbe gers, tearmusclesor breaklimbs.Septictanksashorehave overflowed.Thereisa This isthetimethatpeoplesteponthings andfallorgashthemselvespinchfin- debris everywhere,muchofithiddenunder water,mudorotherflotsam.Becareful! take picturesbeforethestorm,right?Take morenow. precedent atyourperil.Getalawyerto“arrest” aboatthathasharmedyou.Youdid you. Thereareliterally500yearsofAdmiralty caselawtodecideclaims.Youignore You cannotclaimorstripaboat,nomatter howtrashed,nomatterwhatitdidto lawyers hadlotsoffunafterthe ny. Samethingwithaboatonthebottom, nomatterhowlongit’sbeenthere(the adrift andabandonedatseabelongsto someone, evenifitistheinsurancecompa- board light. “boater” flares.Evenbetterisastrobelight,eitherfromlifejacketoryourman-over- grade flaresareaboutthreetimesmoreefficientthanUSCGorFrenchapproved fall on.Muchsaferisafloatingorangesmokeorhand-heldflare.Hint:SOLAS fected bywater.They They willgoalongdistancewiththewind.burnphosphoruswhichisunaf- it issafetodoso. VHF antennasmaybegone,radiosshortedout.Goandknockonhullsassoon as emergencies; don’tcountonseeingsomeonetopsidewavingorsoundingthefoghorn. a blacksquareandball.Couplessingle-handersmaybebelowdealingwith for distresssignals:anupside-downnationalflag,astrobelight,orangeflagwith running forcover. ing. Remember,though,thatonaregularday40-knotsquallwouldsendeveryone only aquarteroftheforce80knotsthatjustwentbyanditwillfeellikenoth- of hoursinmind.Thestormwillpass.Eventually. advance andradiusofhurricane-forcewind”forecastyouheard.Keepthatnumber storm bywindshiftandbarometerfall.Keepnotes.Rememberthelast“speedof arm inaheartbeat. Boston Whalersurgingalongsideinthree-footseasand40-knotwindscancrushan chaos reign. knots; ifyougethitbysomething,itwillhurt.Itmayevenkill.Staybelowandlet is toomuchstuffflyingabout.Therelittleusefulworkyoucandoondeckin100 wildest storiesusuallycomefromthosewhowereleastpreparedbeforehand. unless yousawityourself.Whenhearingwildrumors,considerthesource. The tion oflooting,nonetheaboveareevertrue.Don’tbelieveanyoutlandishstory out.” “Thegovernmentisbulldozingallthebeachedboats.”Withpossibleexcep- to snatcheveryone’sboatoffthebeach.”“Ahighlycontagiousdiseasehasbroken ing.” “Massivelootinghasbrokenout.”“TheNavyisbringinginheavy-lifthelicopters 25 deadinthemorgue.”“Therearedozensmissing.”isanotherstormcom- work todo.Youaren’tgoinggetitalldoneatonce. vise-grips arereallyusefuliftheyinyourpocket. ly). Forthoseoccasionswhenyouhaveafewseconds,goodqualitymulti-toolor one-handed. Ajackknifemaynotbeusableifyou’reholdingonfordearlife(literal- ware store.Thesearenotonlysharp,butcanbefishedoutofapocketandopened your regularsailingknifedoesn’tfitthiscategory,getautilityfromthehard- no timetosawawaywithadullbladeorfumblearoundopeningclosedblade.If you willbreathe—inraindrivenat60ormoremilesanhour. keep youafloat,butalsoprotectwhensmashintosomething. be quicklysweptalongwayifyougooverboard.TheTypeIlifejacketwillnotonly will dieofaheartattackfromthesurprise. day; theywillinflateonyouwhenleastexpectitinhurricaneconditionsand more accuratethan“inflate”.Theytendtobetriggeredbymoistureevenonagood these situations.Theyinflateasquicklyanairbaginacar;fact,“explode”is a TypeIjacketmayabsorbsomeoftheblows.Adeflatedinflatablewon’t. tether. Youwillbeblownaroundondecknomatterhownimbleorlargeyouare,and • If youarestayingaboardandhavetogoondeckinablow After thestormistimeforheightened awarenessandcaution.Therewillbe • Andnow,the“S”word,asinsalvage: Everyboatbelongstosomebody.A • • • • • • Now isreallythetimetobecalmandcollected.Therewilldaysifnotweeksof After it’sallover • When, astheysayupinNewEngland,it’sreallycomingontoblow: • • • It isessentialtohaveareallygoodlifejacketlight,orC-strobe,onyou.Youcould There aremanyreasonswhyanautomaticinflatablelifejacketisdangerousin Look aroundyou.Someoneisworseoffthanyouareandcanusesomehelp. If youareindistress,thinkseriouslybeforefiringoffameteororparachuteflare. Wear asnorkelandmask.Itistheonlywayyouwillsee—possibly Carry arazor-sharpknifewithfixedblade.Ifyouneedtouseone,therewillbe A smallflashlightyoucanholdinyourteethis“handy”. Watch yourbarometer.Ifallradiosfail,youcanstilltellthepassageof Under noconditionsevertrytofendoffanotherboatorpilingevenadinghy! First ofall,therewillbemorerumorsthanmosquitoesafterthestorm.“There’s Don’t beahero!Therecomespointwherethewindistoostrongand/orthere You mustbewearingaTypeIlifejacket( Don’t over-reacttotheeuphoriaofbeingalive.Ifitisblowing40knots,that will start afireoneventhemostwaterloggedlandorboatthey Titanic was found).Likewisewithaboatonbeach. not nifaal)adaharnesswitha an inflatable)anda A AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 PORT OF ENTRY HAPPY HOUR 5-6 TOURS ARRANGED MOORING FACILITIES BAR AND RESTAURANT WATER, ICE, SHOWERS CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE ... Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay Sandy Island www.scubamax.com • * Standard at PADI 5 Air-Fills [email protected] • and Snorkel Gear Rental Scuba • for Sailors Special Group Prices & 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch & 15 Specialties PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor from Beginner to Instructor PADI Courses s Mustique • ’ • at Hillsborough, Service for Sailors Rendezvous • pm or individually dives at 9.30 am and 1.30 Daily Phone/Fax (473) 443-7882 and VHF CH 16 and VHF CH 443-7882 (473) Phone/Fax Find us right in the town of Hillsborough! the town us right in Find and Choice Meats Sunday: 9am to 12pm VHF Ch 16 & 68 (range limited by the hills) in the Grenadines. West Indies. ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WALLILABOU E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230 Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) Monday-Saturday: 8am to 12pm & 3pm to 6pm Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Corea Your Expert Guide to Carriacou’s Best Diving Best Carriacou’s Guide to Expert Your THE FOOD STORE THE FOOD STORE P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & Your #1 Choice for Provisioning TRAINING INSTRUCTOR and have the (NHC emphasis.) —Continued on page 28 in case the storm changes course. The . At their website (www.nhc.noaa.gov) the pros , told me about hurricanes. ‘The best thing is No one, especially the National Hurricane Center, The NHC/TPC does not warrant that avoiding these reader feedback from experienced sailors over the years. from experienced sailors reader feedback Harbinger Compass

HURRICANE PREPARATION 2007 BY BRAD GLIDDEN BY BRAD 2007 PREPARATION HURRICANE “A hurricane is a very large weather system, with, as an average, tropical-storm- “A hurricane is a very large weather system, with, as eye, your odds of surviving So, if you can move 30, 40 or 50 miles away from the in advance of the storm is But other folks think that trying to go somewhere else 20 years ago my sailing “[There are] storms we’ve weathered at anchor. Nearly “As for the many barstool admirals who advocate putting to sea in the face of a “As for the many barstool admirals who advocate putting St. Lucia, Brad is exactly “If the hurricane is expected to go anywhere south of perils of going to sea in the Don Street’s statement, above, touches on exactly the As another reader quoted notes, a hurricane can cover a very broad area with trop- Everyone on both sides of this question is in agreement on one point: “But if you are going to go to sea to dodge a hurricane, you cannot dither around, “We stress that THE DECISION TO SAIL AWAY MUST BE MADE EARLY. You can- “…the decision to run must be made three to four days in advance of H-hour, in So if you’re going, go at least three days ahead of projected landfall Nothing has provoked more impassioned opinions than the questions of whether questions of than the opinions more impassioned has provoked Nothing Wind force goes to base your decisions on: a storm, here’s a formula In preparing for Let’s look at some Sail Out or Tuck In? Sail Out or Tuck staying in the projected path of a storm — especial- Some folks are adamant that turns away, so what? One can soon return and “Why not move? If the hurricane talks on hurricane preparation in Grenada with John “We have in the past given

STAY OR GO? STAY Part Three: Part Three: force winds extending out 150 miles and hurricane-force winds 30. This means the force winds extending out 150 miles and hurricane-force ‘only’ 70 knots or so, 30 miles maximum winds are at the eye wall, and it’s down to My guess was 60 knots of away.… We weathered Ivan 30 miles north of the eye. wind; I heard that 70 was measured.” go up dramatically. if there is any chance of being playing Russian Roulette with three chambers loaded, caught at sea. mentor, Jim Schlake of the safest place to be. Our short answer is ‘SOMEWHERE ELSE!’ Just one degree of lat- safest place to be. Our short answer is ‘SOMEWHERE in a disaster.” itude can make the difference between being safe or being hurricane, if any of them actually have a boat capable of such folly, I encourage them hurricane, if any of them actually have a boat capable be well worth reading. Some to do so, as the article they write if they survive would when storms approach. Their large boats, and many fast boats, do in fact do this to return. Surviving a captains and crews dread setting out, and are very relieved an experienced crew, enough hurricane at sea requires a very well-found vessel, is possible, and courage. speed that avoidance of the worst parts of the storm only boat out there in the Furthermore, be aware that your yacht will not be the will be out trying to hang storm; that every large commercial vessel in the Caribbean are.” out in the ‘quiet’ quadrant of the storm, just like you a hurricane hole and stuff right — don’t go to sea to dodge it, instead find yourself to safeguard your boat, then yourself into it. Do all the preparations that are possible ashore.” make the decision whether to stay on the boat or to go was headed for the islands phrase “if the hurricane is expected to…”. Hurricane Ivan projected to go over Antigua in 2004. Three days before it hit Grenada, the track was for “safety” to the south, only and the Virgins. At least one boat left St. Croix headed to sail into the path of the storm. ical-storm-force winds extending out from the eye some 150 miles, and hurricane force winds 30 miles. But remember that maximum winds are at the eye wall, decreasing to (“only”) 70 knots or so at about 30 miles away. Any given harbor is a small, small target for a direct hit by the eye, and even a near miss of 20 or 30 miles is (probably, maybe, should be) a survivable experience. you must stick to your plans, and you must get as far south of the hurricane as FAST as you can. If the wind is light, then motorsail (no breakdowns allowed).” not afford to keep waiting and hoping the hurricane will turn away; by then it will be too late. You should aim for a minimum of at least three days for leaving.” order to get into port and make adequate preparations on the chance that the storm track changes. Coming into a hurricane hole less than 24 hours before the closest forecasted track position endangers all the others in that hurricane hole who arrived in time to make complete preparations.” to be where they ain’t.’ …I had told Schlake that I thought putting to sea to avoid it to be where they ain’t.’ …I had told Schlake that I thought there in one of those.’ What sounded like a good strategy. ‘You don’t want to be out finally a believer.” then? ‘The mangroves,’ he said, ‘are the answer.’ I am knows exactly where the storm is going Users operating in the vicinity of these systems are advised to continually monitor the latest Forecast/Advisories from the TPC/NHC and proceed at their own risk.” ability aboard to monitor weather forecasts farther north in the islands you are, the greater the risk that you won’t be able to get far enough south in time. to sail away from an approaching storm or tuck the boat inshore, and, if tucked in and, if the boat inshore, storm or tuck approaching away from an to sail go ashore. whether to stay aboard or an anchorage, is four times the double the wind speed of the speed; that means up as the square much worse? Think 100 knots ain’t that out in 60-knot line squalls. force. You’ve been is 10,000; 60 squared is 3,600; 100 squared the proportional force as: You can figure seven times a soul-searing 22,500, or nearly 14,400 and 150 squared is 120 squared is you don’t seen-it-felt-it-lived-through-it, 60-knot squall. If you haven’t the force of that is. of 120 knots of wind what five hours really deep-in-your-guts-know ly a big storm, where 100 knots is nearly twice as bad as 70 — is, well, nuts. ly a big storm, where 100 knots has been reduced or eliminated by putting distance the risk to the cruising home and the boat…. Moving your cruising home to anchor- between the hurricane’s path possible path is an important part of the strategy.” ages farther from a hurricane’s the John’s favorite line is to ask us where we consider and Melodye Pompa, and remind us of the old 1-2-3 Rule: “The 1-2-3 Rule, commonly taught to mariners, refers remind us of the old 1-2-3 Rule: “The 1-2-3 Rule, commonly to the rounded long-term NHC/TPC forecast errors of 100-200-300 nautical miles at 24-48-72 hours, respectively….. danger areas will eliminate the risk of harm from tropical cyclones. AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20

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tel: 440-2310 Venezuela Today: and con tening tothespeechesofChavez,talkinglocalspro Guardia Costa have nothingtoworry aboutwithofficials.Thesame is easy.Aslongas your paperworkisinorder,you doing. Youalsocan check inbyyourself;I’veheardit will checkyouinand outandtheyknowwhatthey’re Nacional get tomeetthelocalsandlearnSpanish. the mostwonderfulfreshveggiesandfruits. Youalso meat, chickenandeggsallthetime,not tomention reach fromallmarinas,isafunplaceto shop andhas local marketindowntownPuertoLaCruz, easyto when itisdelivered;youcanevenplace orders.The and you’reokay.Withmeat,youjustneed tofindout but itissoldabouteverythreeweeksso just buyextra er, andsoisfish.Thehardestthingto find isbutter, empty meatcounter.Porkisreadilyavailable,howev- unusual toseeagrocerystorewithcompletely merchant wantstosellgoodsundercost,soit’snot milk andbutter.It’saridiculouslylowcapno price caponstaplefoodssuchaseggs,chicken,beef, you cangetfuelatthelocalprice. price. MostcruisersgotoMochimaorCumaná,where fuel indowntownPuertoLaCruzattheinternational Caribbean islands.Wearenowallowedagaintobuy to besmugglingfueloutofheresellinthe This fueldockisnowclosed,astheownerwasfound pockets. Sonofuelwasbeingsoldtoforeignvessels. the fuelsoldatinternationalpriceintotheirown employees wererunningascamtoputmoneyfrom above attheinternationalprice.Butonefueldock, 1,000 litresoffuelatthelocalpricetheneverylitre a specialrestriction:foreignboatwasabletobuy This rumorstartedinPuertoLaCruz,wheretherewas nothing toworryabout. days tobeinFlorida.Playbytherulesandthereis Florida, foroneexample,allowsvisitingboatsonly60 rumor listagain.WehavesimilarrulesintheUS: boat orloseit.Ijusthopethatthiswillnotmakethe line hewillgetcaughtandeitherpaytaxesonhis ment togetanother18months.Somewheredownthe bring theboatbackin45days,asthatisrequire- months beforepayingtaxesonit.Mostlikelyhewill do. IngeneralaboatcanbeinVenezuelafor18 to registerhisboatinVenezuela—whichhedidn’t boat ownerisaVenezuelancitizenandlegallyneeds owner sailedtoBonaire.Nowhereisthecatch: were goingtoconfiscateaUS-registeredboat,sothe [email protected]. [email protected]; PuertoLaCruzNet:PLC- anything questionable:VenezuelaNet: the USEmbassyandtheywillinformusifthereis nets youcansignupwith,whichareconnectedwith I’m suretheembassieswouldwarnus.Therearetwo don’t thinkhe’sthatstupid.Iftherewassucharisk, against thecountriesofconfiscatedboats,andI mented foreignvessels,hewouldcommitcrimes pared totheirs.Besides,if Venezuelan ones,asourboatsareworthnothingcom- seize someexpensiveboatstheywouldconfiscatethe nas orvisitingyachts.Mythoughtisiftheywantedto countries do—butisnotinterestedinseizingmari- Venezuelan governmentcontrolsallports—asmost foreign boatsconfiscated.Thefactisthatthe of therumorscurrentlymakingrounds. news doesn’tleavethegate.We’dliketodebunksome Unfortunately badnewstravelsatlightspeed,good make upourownminds—adecisionwedon’tregret. make lastyear.Wecameheretoseeforourselvesand to comeVenezuela.Wehadthesamedecision eyes what’sgoingon. A First-HandLook W Regarding Customs, About therumoredfoodshortage:Chavezputa Another rumoristhatforeignboatscan’tgetfuel. One recentrumorwasthatVenezuelanCustoms One rumoristhatmarinasarebeingtakenoverand Many cruiserswonderedthisseasonwhetherornot : Thereareyachtclearance agentsherethat El Presidente also veryawareofthepoliticalsituation,lis- 2006 andarethoroughlyenjoyingit.We e’ve beeninVenezuelasinceSeptember D D E patrols the canals,mainlyonthe week- E S S , andjustseeingwithourown T T Guardia Costa I I El Presidente N N A A T T and seized docu- I I O O Guardia N N S S by SidandManuelaOlshefski by for example,isawonderfulmarinabutsurrounded that cruisersandlocalsgetrobbed.BahiaRedonda, States oranywhereelse.Thereforeitdoeshappenhere crime. YouhavethesameproblemsinUnited it tobe;thereisnosuchthingasacitywithoutany gers over60yearsofage. travel inthiscountryoffersreducedfaresforpassen- Flying withinthecountryisveryreasonable,too.All fortable asflyingfirstclasswhileenjoyingmovies. no problem;it’sacheapwaytotravelandisascom- the utmostrespect.Alsotakingbusesonlongtripsis at thesetwiceinallourtravels,andweretreatedwith sure thecar’spapersareinorder.We’vebeenstopped a lotofcheckpointswhere our friends,andhaveneverhadaproblem.Thereare trips bycarthroughthecountry,andsodomanyof only realdangerliesinthecrazydrivershere.Wetake planting oraccusationsofbeinganAmericanspy,the questionable, isabsurd.Ratherthanfacingdrug us withafriendly“ bay. We’veneverbeenstoppedandtheyalwaysgreet ends tokeepthelittlespoiledkidsintheirdinghiesat Caribbean aboard safely tothisfriendly country. wish youfollowingseas andmaythewindblowyou you inaboutyour new homeawayfromhome.We VHF channel72orstopbyandsayhello. Wecanfill yourself howbeautifulitis.Lifeisstillgood here. we tellyouthis:GiveVenezuelaachance, visit,seefor country andhassomuchtooffer.Wefeel strongly when another hurricaneseason.Venezuelais abeautiful buddy boat)whenvisitingthoseanchorages. just usecommonsenseprecautions(such ashavinga lems. And,yes,someanchoragesare questionable; cruisers away. losing theirjobsbecauseoftherumorsthatkeep one yet.Manypeopleare,however,concernedabout fanatics thatdohateAmericans,butwehaven’tmet the utmostrespect.I’msuretherearesomeChavez have beennothingbutfriendlytousandtreatwith and manywonderfulrestaurants. robbed. Withinashortwalkingdistancearemall walk aroundwithouthavingtoworryaboutgetting upscale neighborhoodofLecheriawhereitissafeto expensive thantheothermarinasbutitisin home ortraveling,andarehonestreliable. even willtakecareofyourboatwhileyouarevisiting they willdriveyouaroundandtranslateforyou.Some You canhirethemhourlyforaveryreasonableprice; know wherealltheimportantstoresforcruisersare. Leo, Andres,RaulandCarlos,whospeakEnglish There arewonderfultaxidrivers,includingArnaldo, rio ings and—guesswhat?ifyouwalkthrougha able. Icannottellyouhowmanyignorethesewarn- bus buttotakeataxiinstead,whichisveryafford- to walkaroundtheneighborhood,andnottake Play bytherulesandthere Is itsafeinPuertoLaCruz?It’sasyouwant The latestrumor,aboutdrivinginVenezuelabeing Sid andManuelaOlshefski arecruisingthe If youdecidetocomehere,feelfreecontact uson We loveithere,feelsafe,andaregoing tospend We don’tdenythatVenezuelahaspoliticalprob- Do thelocalshateAmericans?Absolutelynot;they We liketostayatMarinaMaremares;itisabitmore All themarinasherehavesecurityguards24/7. barrios you’re likelytogetrobbed. is nothingtoworryabout and cruisersarewarnedovernot Paradise. Hola ”. Guardia Nacional make bar- AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 by Ralph Trout 16ft channel • 24 hour security Shower facilities • • Telephone hook-up • 120 concrete slip berths Fuel dock and bunkering WE OFFER: • • Free satellite TV at each slip • (single phase and three phase) Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378 Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps • Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets • Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality. Wireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean • We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha – American system) Carriacou: Carriacou: Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their “Home”! Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: [email protected] IT’S MUCH MORE THAN A MARINA: IT’S HOME! The Back-In-Time Island Back-In-Time The A traditional Grenadines ‘board house’ in Carriacou, with galvanized roof, gingerbread trim, and fixed louvers for A traditional Grenadines ‘board house’ in Carriacou, with the foreground is from a boatbuilding project ventilation between the sash windows. The lumber in SS SS N N N N O O O O II II T T T T A A A A N N N N —Continued on next page II II T T T T SS SS

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hristmas 1994 was the first time I anchored at first time I 1994 was the hristmas Windward, Carriacou. This is a harbour on the This is a harbour Windward, Carriacou. southernmost of the inhabited east side of the

The last time I was here the island was taking quite I was here the island was The last time home to fewer than The small island of Carriacou, to check out local I recently returned to Carriacou What we did find was a relief. Things hadn’t changed C a beating from Hurricane Lenny. It was 1999, almost Hurricane Lenny. It was a beating from a “what I had left Bequia after checking eight years ago. to be awak- Net satellite photo only looked to be safe” Island, by the roar of an ened in Chatham Bay, Union a place to weather the huge, unleashed sea. Looking for I approached Hillsborough, misdirected ground swell, village of Carriacou, only the port of entry and biggest the approaching 20-plus- to discover it was hidden by days I had three foot waves. For two roller-coaster of Sandy Island, a hooks set in the slight protection shore. tiny islet just off the Carriacou from that storm. Most 7,000 souls, took serious licks and main street were of Hillsborough’s sea front waves. Usually tran- crushed or eroded by the violent anchorage on the west, quil Tyrell Bay, a favorite yacht businesses. The village lost its beach road and several inside the reef on and harbor of Windward, protected from Lenny, Carriacou’s east side, remained and Emily left some land but later Hurricanes Ivan and dry. scars and a few boats high met but never visited. I had friends whom my wife had been forewarned by other boaties that Windward had I changed, so I wasn’t certain if she would see what always craved — basic Caribbean. We usually stay away from posh marinas and hotels. White-jacketed waiters and drinks with paper umbrellas are actually a turn-off for my wife. Our luxury is really hot water baths, really cold air conditioning, and to enjoy both while watching remote-controlled cable TV; none of which we would find in Windward. much in that village and all of Carriacou seemed to be faring better than big brother Grenada. Grenadines. Then it was the quaintest, most remark- it was the quaintest, Grenadines. Then Caribbean, part of the real able, most unchanged people were I was cruising to find. The exactly what and the and diving were excellent, friendly, the fishing very strong. rum was strong, AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 party. Thismightbetherecordforfastestbuilding keel beforetherewillbeanothermemorablelaunching continues ontheinteriorandcastingoflead-ballast and caulkedwithdeckhousehatchinplace.Work February 17th.Sheisnowcompletelyplanked,decked, an impressivesloopforhisbrother“UncleC”Cyrilon ground musiciship-hopandnotclassiccalypso. of aworkweek,it’sCampariandsoda.Theback- Now insteadofarumbottlebeingdrainedattheend forcing rodstosilicon-coatedbronzescrewsandbolts. the typeoffastenerused;evolvingfrombentsteelrein- stages ofcompletionhere.Theseboatsdifferonlyin ent instylefromtheirancestors,arenowvarious Scottish fishermen.Fourwoodenboats,nottoodiffer- for thefreshwaterspringthatnourishedoriginal locally-made woodenboatscrewedbysuperbsailors. around boats,whichisthisisland’sclaimtofame; developments meanmuch-neededjobsthatrevolve sucking, under-usedgolfcourses.Carriacou’smain accommodate visitors,buildingposhhotelswithwater- mangrove. UsuallyI’magainstislandschangingto the northsideofTyrellborderingasadlysickanddying brought totheislandistheirHummervehicle. inter-island freight.Thebiggestchangethey’ve “get mehome”transport,tofoodandsundries sels servicingmostofCarriacou’sneedsfrombasic who helpedbuildthenewboatyardhasafleetofves- maran hometheSundaywevisited.TheAlexisfamily was puttingthefinishingtouchesonhisfloatingcata- boats onthehard.Mygoodfriend,HopeMcLawrence, shallow reefandpresentlyaccommodatesabout20 Stewart, iswedgedbetweenasteepdrivewayand lunch, yacht.Theneweryard,managedbyJerry was hometothepreviousowner’swooden,termite- Bay, andbotharebusy.Foryearstheolderrailway haulouts now,sidebyside,onthesouthofTyrell idents returningfromabroad.Thereareactuallytwo hotels, butonmostlyattractiveprivatehomesforres- an airofoptimismandadefinitelackidleness. that haveoccurredseemtobenefitall.Thereseemsbe seems almostimpossible.Thedevelopmentandchanges finding arestaurantopenaftereighto’clockonweeknight movie theaters(butmaybeafewmoreDVDrenters)and Martinique formonenation.)Thelittleislandstillhasno frompreviouspage —Continued Close totheFishingDepot,BernardComptonstarted Watering Bay,thatsurroundsWindward,isnamed A sizablelocallyownedmarinaisslowlyformingon Construction isprovidingalotofwork,noton (The islandsofCarriacou,GrenadaandPetite Fishermen anddiversselltheircatch.Goatscows and blueW’satthe“T”inroadprovidesessentials. from foodandclothestofishingequipmentliquor, Mallick’s acrossfromthepostofficehasbeststock bar isagoodsourceofhardware.Yellow-painted their outsidecolor.ThewhiteoneattheSunsetDisco and competinginthesailingregattas. quite activebuildingboatsalongWindward’sshoreline Calvin Patricearesomeoftheoldershipwrightsstill contests. TheComptonsandCheesman,Gordon, painted anddetailedracingsloopsawaitinter-island tions. Nearby,pastapileoflocalcedar,threenewly- work-idling questionsunlessyoubroughtenoughliba- of aCarriacouvessel.Aneatly-paintedsignwarnsoff Windward stillhasitsthreestores,recognizedby Bernard Comptonisbuildingthisimpressivesloopforhisbrother‘UncleC’atthevillageofWindward Island MarineServicesandfiveminutesdrivefromtheairport. True BlueRestaurant.LocatedfiveminuteswalkfromSpice dishes areamustatourwatersideDodgyDockLoungeBarand fabulous accommodation.Caribbeancocktailsanddelicious coast ofGrenadaandenjoyourfullservicemarina Dock, moororsetanchoratTrueBlueBaylocatedinthesouth True BlueBayMarina Indigo CarRentals&HorizonYachtCharters Resort &Villas [email protected] www.truebluebay.com Aquanauts DiveCenter described astenmonthsdrought,twoflood. of pigeonpeasandcorn.Carriacou’sweatherisbest plowed readyforpromisedrainbeforeplantingcrops roam unfetteredeverywhere.Almosteveryone’syardis anchored offDave’scompound. provided thestimulusformanyCaribbeantaleswhile on, orratherslippingJackIronover-proofrum towards UnionIslandandPetiteMartinique.Sipping it’s fromhisdecklookingoutonthemulti-seablues time experience.Iftherereallyisamillion-dollarview, Indian-style self-containedcottagesarelikeaback-in- most tastefulexpressionsoftourism.ItsfourWest Resort. Thisisnotdevelopmentperse,butoneofthe VHF Channel16 At theendofbayisCarriacouDave’sBayaleau 473 4438783 —Continued onnextpage —Continued AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 New Sail Loft ferry, which travels twice a day from ferry, which travels twice Osprey Around every turn the many undeveloped beaches, many undeveloped every turn the Around new few slight changes, a sparkling We did find a produce in Hillsborough It’s still difficult to get fresh still exists, with the Old The charismatic rumshop Another Carriacou fixture is Max at Silver Diving. He Another Carriacou fixture is The cost of living is going up, along with the water teous police will hit you with an EC$1,500 fine, for fine, an EC$1,500 with hit you will police teous safety. your own hand- cottages with cedar shake slanting old slightly and sailboats, trim, trademark gingerbread made Kodak pigs provide floppy-eared long and unique, photos is from best view for postcard-type moments. The turquoise sea Hillsborough where the the hospital above and sugar mill towers. backdrops cannons no longer along the beach road that health clinic man who sat the airport’s runway. The passes across from the chasing wandering livestock in the little hut is now out the road for planes tarmac and blocking to be the Air (see ad on page 28) seems of a job. SVG only airline. also doesn’t have a sign even with the new market that Board is the best from the main street. The Marketing places for lunch or an early bet. There are several nice Roof, Calaloo, Excelsior’s dinner, including The Green Island Café. Butterfly, Ava’s, and the Sandi the Eagle next to the town Man’s in Harvey Vale and I counted five rumshops dock. In fact, in Hillsborough thirst of travelers getting in a row ready to quench the off the Grenada’s capital, St. George’s. We found cold drinks, Grenada’s capital, St. George’s. views from Bill great lunches, and spectacular the “new” internet café. Paterson’s Place opposite even more personable than Always smiling, Bill seems On his beach-front patio, he was almost a decade ago. and strangers trade tales, rebuilt after Lenny, locals on world politics, and reminiscences, and observations the changing climate. provided scuba tanks, good dive locations, and observations every day. Another thing that hasn’t changed is the island’s strong tidal current, but the numbers of fish have diminished. If you are diving in Carriacou, drift with your boat. level from the changing climate, they say. There will always be wars and better job opportunities in far-off places. Now you can watch a movie on your telephone and talk to another continent over your hand-held computer. The world is quickly changing, yet Carriacou, and especially Windward, is like a time machine taking you back to a less stressing, more har- monious yesteryear. New Sail Loft Taxi vans can provide a reasonable tour, or you can None of these three undesignated historical land- historical undesignated these three None of estate have been a large, wealthy Dumfries must at the end of a track that most vehicles could traverse on a dry day, but you still have to park and walk. If you hike it from Harvey Vale in Tyrell, up and over Belmont village, go early and carry lots of liquids. These places haven’t changed in many decades and are worth the effort. rent a car from Wayne Bullen in Hillsborough or Quality Jeeps in Harvey Vale, but you have to purchase a Grenada driver’s permit. Buckle up, or cour- farther, the Dumfries Estate. Estate. Dumfries the farther, signs, Don’t look for visitors. are meant to attract marks mys- overall tourism of Grenada’s to be part as it seems The a mystery. locations remain let the sites’ tique to hardly mentions in Hillsborough museum adequate good maps are hard to find. these ruins, and ruin has a huge well and one building with another the first Coming from the beach, large stone cistern. ruins truly lie is the graveyard. These thing you’ll see Following the road just over the hill from Dave’s lies One of those tales happened as we were about to go were about as we those tales happened One of this incident, two young local boys paddled up in a sea kayak straddled with a 25-pound shark they had speared. Carriacou just makes good stories. the unrestored indigo factory, almost hidden in the dense bush. The path to the fieldstone-lined well is worth a bit of sweat to understand the constant importance of water to the life of these islands. Farther along, approachable only through the public refuse dump, lie the ruins of the cotton factory and out fishing in Dave’s skiff. My wife, not a fan of small not a fan of skiff. My wife, in Dave’s out fishing saw day, said she as it was that blustery winds boats in the white with The skiff is totally in the boat. a snake see anything and I couldn’t painted orange outboard swearing snake. She waded back ashore resembling a under the I saw the snake coiled I was blind. Finally not a small it swivels. This proved motor head where get out to the tree boa. How did it snake, but a five-foot calmed of Jack-and-sodas laughingly boat? As a couple —Continued page from previous Strange stowaway. Before we can go fishing, Dave extracts a five-foot tree boa from under the motor head Strange stowaway. Before we can go fishing, Dave extracts AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 the policeridetheirbikesafterdark et, includingthedriver,andthisinatownwhereeven and wastakenabackwheneveryoneputonalifejack- mering stillmorningwhilethebirdsweresinging and mostoftentheonlywaytogetplaces. Bocas Townisstillviathecanal.Infactitquicker yachting influx. tory forIslaColónuntiltheveryrecenttouristand mainly responsibleforthemostprosperouserainhis- Panama Canalwas,butitwasavisionachievedand aquatic societyeventoday. without goingonthe“outside.” ported fromIslaColóntotheportofChanguinola cocoa, sugarcane,andturtleproductstobetrans- allel tothecoastanditenabledbananas,coconuts, cos protectedfromthetrade-drivenwaves.Itrunspar- hundred yearsagotoprovideasaferouteforthecayu- gunwales withbananas,“haymuchoproblema.” a round-bottomeddugout well-found yachtthishardlypresentsaproblembutin breadth oftheCaribbeanSea.Runningdownwindina and thewavescanbuilduninterruptedacross easy toforgetthatjustoutsidethetradewindsdoblow Panamanian sideoftheborderwithCostaRica,itis when weleft,everyboneinmybodywasawarethatI anyway. Althoughthewaterhadlookedlikeglass was doingataroughguess;fartoofastforsailor, at, let’ssay,90milesanhour,whichourwatertaxi it hasasimilarconsistencyifyouhitwithyourface a muchlesspredictableelementthantarmacbutIbet liked goingfastonwater.Itseemstomethatwateris like, believeme. coming abouttenfeetoffthewater.That’swhatitfelt slid forwardandwetookofflikeastuntboat,thebow THE OTHERPANAMA CANAL I caughtthewaterbusfromBocasTownonashim- Today thequickestwaytogetChanguinolafrom The canalwasn’ttheengineeringfeatthat The “outside”isviewedwithdeepmistrustinthis The 15-mile-longChanguinolaCanalwasdugovera In thetranquilityofBahiadeAlmirante,on Personally, althoughIhaveracedcars,never We reversedoutofourslip,thenthegearleverwas by JuliaBartlett cayuco , loadedoverthe sin luz . towards themangrovesofmainland. was tryingtostayseatedonawoodenbench. we passedourwater-busdriver’shome Motoring uptheChanguinolaCanalfromcruisingmeccaofBocasdelRiototownChanguinola, But wedidn’tslowdown. I breathedasighofreliefwhenweeventuallyturned slalom stakestuckinthemudwithother. along onesideoftheboatasourdriverbrushed seat infront.Thebranchesofthemangrovescraped ways. FortunatelyIstillhadmyvice-likegriponthe my prayerswitheyesclosed,theworldslidside- nobody elseseemedtobepanicking. mangrove. Theonlyreassuranceformewasthat impenetrable densityofextremelyhealthy-lookingred not headingforit.Wewereinsteadan tangle, wherepossiblythecanalstarted,butwewere At theverylastsecond,whenIwasactuallysaying I hadthoughtthatseenabreakintheglossy

—Continued onnextpage —Continued ALL PHOTOS: JULIA BARTLETT JULIA PHOTOS: ALL AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

Navigating the good life Protected Harbor Nightlife Downtown Restaurant, Bar & Grille Beach Depth Up to 25 Feet at Face Dock at Face Depth Up to 25 Feet Foot Air Market 1 Minute by Open 24 Hour Security Gated Marina Our destination appeared in the distance: a small cov- appeared in the distance: Our destination we bustling town of Changuinola To get into the a shock after the pris- Changuinola town comes as full of blaring horns, It is a rude frontier-type town Shopping over, we downed a few beers, ate an amaz- It took the driver some time to stow everyone’s good- Shopping is not my thing, but if all shopping trips were strewn with driftwood. Then we followed the river we followed Then driftwood. with strewn Now snowy egrets. dotted with between banks inland float- we passed to change and began the waterscape water was more iris; then there of water ing islands track a virgin we were ploughing more until iris and purple. of green and solid meadows through soft drinks. a shack selling ice cream and ered dock with the Chiquita taxi. Along the road were caught a $2 banana remnants of the once-thriving plantations, the it in 1915. a mysterious pest attacked industry before and by 1934 died a slow agonising death The industry are grown a tree left. Today bananas there was hardly are tra- the avenues of plantations once more and bananas and type system on which versed by a ski-lift workers ride. tine canal. Clouds of black emissions garish colours and vitality. made me hold my breath as trucks passed. My friend and I appeared to be the only two gringos in town that day. But it is the sort of town where, if you are patient, you can buy almost everything you need, including a type of bottom paint. ingly delicious and inexpensive meal, and wandered back to catch another taxi to the canal. ies in the boat. He was obviously well practiced in the art as everything from stoves to bicycle wheels disappeared. Then we reversed gently back out into the water irises. like this one I’d look forward to them with anticipation. Introducing the NEW Introducing PORT ANTONIO, PORT JAMAICA

Out of the Water Storage Up to 95 Feet Storage Water Out of the Full Service Marina Travel-lift 100 Ton Sheds Paint Duty Free Zone in Marina Duty Free 24 Hour Fuel Specialists Engine and Part PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT ON YOUR PROTECT THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASON THIS HURRICANE WATER THE Errol Flynn MarinaErrol & Boatyard Flynn Changuinola (left) is a frontier-type town where you can buy almost everything you need and get a good meal, too The canal (above), running parallel to the coast, provides small craft a safe route protected from trade-driven waves The water buses here (right) are quicker than their land-based counterparts Channel 16 . cayucos nmarina.com • VHF Contact John Louis • 876-715-6044 • 876-873-4412 Contact John e-mail: info@errolflyn The only 100-ton travel lift in this part of the lift in this part only 100-ton travel The up to 95' in length. Caribbean, servicing yachts www.errolflynnmarina.com Sometimes we wound past fallen trees and some- The boat pulled into a wooden jetty at the turtle Shortly afterward we turned the corner where the What had started as a commercial enterprise is now What had started as a commercial ride at the Magic “This is better than the jungle home on stilts to drop off Our driver pulled over to his picking up speed but Then we chugged off again Then we entered the canal, which was the gap I had was the gap canal, which entered the Then we times the jungle formed a cathedral over our heads. The water was a mosaic reflection of clear browns and greens. The perfume from the flowers was almost overwhelming, thatched dwellings peeped out in small clearings and naked toddlers splashed in the shallows. reserve to pick up a volunteer, and there on the opposite bank a family of howler monkeys peered quizzi- cally at us from between the highest boughs — too far away and too well-camouflaged for my camera. I made myself a mental promise to seriously upgrade at the first opportunity. sea is just on the other side of a wild stretch of beach a gift from the gods. said in a hushed awe. Kingdom,” my travel companion baby had been the reason some milk. Perhaps a hungry he chatted, I saw a king- for the flight from town. As heron standing like a stat- fisher dive and a huge white aboard seemed to hold ue in the shallows. Everybody on their way to work. their breath, including the folk local traffic in slowing to pass the occasional seen but which could only be entered from this con- from this only be entered which could seen but cealed channel. —Continued page from previous pace a more sedate we adopted swerve and Another open and eventually my hands able to prise and I was for my camera. to reach shaking enough I stopped AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 S S Downloadable waypoints Up-do-date, livelyandrelevanttext Aerial andsceniccolorphotography Full Colorsketchcharts Check outthefeaturesthatmakethem t t CHRIS DOYLE'SGUIDES the Caribbean'sbestsellers! “Have yougotthelatestWindwardsguideyet?” . . akgsPc pcl:+(599)553-3850/(590)690-222473 Packages Pick–upcall: M & updatesonthewebat M n.0135021 -al [email protected] 001-3057042314E-mail: Int. a a All theinfoyouneedifareplanningacruise! www.doyleguides.com a a r r t t e e n n and deliver allyour goods. All you need iscontactustofastpickup Documentsetc. Freight, Overnight Packages, Express packagesanddocuments, same day, collect anddeliver doortolocalthe offer thenew system delivery Martin, St. Maarten/ the DutchandFrench sideofSt. fast andefficientCOURIERSERVICES to CIRExpress give newspapers etc... magazines, pallets, parcels, If you need totransport deflated thedinghyand stoweditondeck,preparingtodepart PricklyBayatdawn. shore islandsofVenezuela beckoned—LosTestigos,Margarita, Blanquilla….We on ourreturntripto Grenada. increased withevery trouble-freerunthatwemadeintheSouthern Grenadinesand inaction. ByFebruaryitwasrunning normally. Confidenceintheenginealso with use.Wecouldonlyassumethatits faulthadbeentheresultofsixmonths wander thedecklookingforatreetopee against. who willalleviatehisloneliness.Perhaps allthreebreedsofdogareunhappyasthey complaint whenapproached;then,indelight, hewillwelcomeanyone,friendorfoe, he wailshissolitudetotheskyandall theanchorage.Hewillonlyceasehisvocal The worstbreedofallisthe“lonelyhowler”. Ifalonelyhowlerisleftaloneonboard, es within50yards.Iftheanchorageisbusy heisyappingawaynearlyallthetime. “persistent yapper”.Heyellshisheadoff wheneveranyvesselordinghyapproach- is ararebreedindeed,perhapsalmost non-existent. Afarcommonerbreedisthe barks whenfacedwithastrangerboardinghismaster’sboatevilintent.This boat-dog. Oneisthe“perfectguarddog”.Heobedient,loyalandquiet.only colourless coral. had proliferated.Thesnorkellingseemedtohavelostitsallurewithfewerfishand beyond ourmeans.Theanchoragesseemedovercrowded;noisyoutboardmotors and veginthelovelyproducemarketUnionIslandseemedtohaveescalated big supermarketsinGrenadawereunder-stockedandover-priced.Thecostsoffruit it shoneoutoftherosyspectacleourmemory.Soappearedtousthateven the all intheautopilot. of trouble-freerunningtocompletelyrestoreourconfidence.Westillhadnofaith at we believedthattheengineproblemwasnowcured,itwouldtakemanymorehours too muchhardworkandhadbeguntoloseitsattraction.Toaddthis,although furling, andnostack-pack.Herboomsgoosenecksarehigh.Sailingseemed all heavier andmorephysicallydemanding.Shehasnoself-tailingwinches,in-mast our age.AsAlanpassedhis70thbirthdayandImy69th,all in anareathathadalwaysbeenoneofourfavouriteCaribbeancruisinggrounds. Carriacou andthesouthernGrenadines.Thiswouldbeourfourthfinalseason dropped anchorundersail. approached PricklyBayonGrenada’ssouthcoast,sowemadeourwayinand making eightknots,ormoreattimes,andeatingupthemilestowardsGrenada. husband, Alan,workedonthesailswhileIclungtowheel.Wepressedforward steer. Assquallscamethrough,regularadjustmentstothesailswereneeded.My were sailingclose-hauled.Noadjustmentwouldcureitsoweforcedtohand started toyawthrough20degreesormore.Suchawasunacceptableaswe which (liketheengine)hadworkedperfectlyinshelteredwatersofTrinidad,now and couldlayourcourse. “hunt.” Weshutitdownbeforegotanyworse.Atleastwewerenowinopenwater that area.Thencameasoundstruckfearinourminds:theenginebeganto open water,tofindourselvesleapingandpitchingintheirregularseascommon from BocadeMonos,thenarrowpassagebetweenTrinidadandMonosIsland,into even thoughitwasunlikelythatwecouldreachGrenadabeforedusk.Weemerged rain, sowedecidedtowaitandseewhatdawnwouldbring. Grenada. Butattheappointedhourtherewereserioussquallswithhighwindand forecast wasgoodandourplantoleaveat2 Immigration tocheckoutofTrinidad&Tobago. free winesandspirits,collectedourliferaftfromservicingwenttoCustoms tidal currentstodoourlastshoppinginTrinidad.Welaidagoodsupplyofduty- all boatsystems,theengine,autopilot.Everythingwasapparentlyrunningfine. marina wasreplacedbytheweirdwailofhowlermonkeysinforest.Wetested nearby, uninhabitedScotlandBay.Heretheearlymorningcallofparrotsin spent afewdaysinsliponthequaysideandthenanotheratanchor of themanyboatyardsinChaguaramas,Trinidad.AfterlaunchingNovember,we Skybird’s FinalCaribbeanSeason: Next month: ‘Retailtherapy’in Porlamar. It wastimetoleave the EasternCaribbeanislandchainand headwest.Theoff- We madeseveralexperimentswiththe autopilotanditsperformanceimproved And thentherewerethedogs.AlanandIconcludedthatarethreetypesof Worry breedsdissatisfaction,andnothingthisyearseemedquitesowonderfulas This year,however,nothingseemedtobequitesogoodasbefore.Perhapsitwas After aweekortwo,onceourengineproblemsweresolved,wecruisedGrenada, We arrivedjustafterdarknessfell.Buttheenginefailedtorestartaswe There wasagoodwindandwemadefastpassageundersailbuttheautopilot, Dawn sawmoderationinthewindandbrokensunshinesowedecidedtosetout, We droppedanchorinScotlandBayagainforafewhoursofsleep.Theweather We returnedtoanchorinthedeep,dirtywatersofChaguaramaswithitsswirling Our yacht, THE ISLANDCHAIN Skybird, ADIEU TO was laiduponthehardfor2006hurricaneseasonatone by MaryRobinson AM for the85-milepassageupto Skybird’s

gear seemed HART & STONE & HART AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 ARBOUR 284 495-5685 H Fax: 284 495-5706 ACHT Y VHF Ch: 16 Full Service Marina Facility during hurricane season. Web: www.vgmarina.biz LEAVE YOUR BOAT ORDA G located within convenient walking distance. IN OUR CARE THIS SUMMER 284 495-5318 495-5318 284 Tel: 284 495-5500 laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in IRGIN fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice, offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket, V a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space

FRANK STEFANKO . This is a caipirinha is a grand vessel it is evening. Star Clipper Star Clipper by Carol Reed

raises her glorious sails and slips towards the deep once again. Can raises her glorious sails and slips towards the deep once

& the Grenadines & the Sailing St. Vincent Vincent St. Sailing

Star Clipper

A bottle filled with Chanfleur water rolls lazily to starboard across the carpeted A bottle filled with Chanfleur water rolls lazily to starboard and then forward to Okay, no showers right now. It’s too tiresome. First: breakfast, Let the young and Wait! Could the drill work for brains? “BRAIN OVERBOARD!” and feeling tranquil. The day ashore is spent on Union Island, shelling, snorkeling, on deck in bare feet, and The evening entertainment of steel drum music, dancing “Missing: two brains. Send them back to New Jersey, please.” “Missing: two brains. Send them back to New Jersey, of reality is altered. There This is the gift and the mystery of life at sea. One’s sense The ship’s IMPORTANT “news” included our “drink of the day”: Frank and Carol stand at the bow and gaze at the Southern Cross; their old friend, at the Southern Cross; their stand at the bow and gaze Frank and Carol power, propelled forward by the winds of night. The bow rises with the sails’ moon shines on the strange dark sea, making a creamy The nearly full but waning And awakens to some very challenging choices: The pair retires for the evening. Neither Frank nor Carol can locate their brains in Ummm — wait! Call the purser! I LOVE the suspension of time and space. I become led more by natural instinct On shore, local people live at a different pace, to a different beat, and with much Back on board, we watch as the sun illuminates the sea. Island hills rise up into Soon enough, we’ll be returning to the rush of an airport, with the worries about I’ll just bet our pesky little brains will catch up with us there, nipping around our A trip on a sailing ship is not only a vacation of place, but a vacation of the mind. It sure was nice while it lasted. On deck of the sailing cruise ship On deck of the cabin floor — indicating the heeling of the clipper ship. “Oh, look,” Frank and Carol cabin floor — indicating the heeling of the clipper ship. in their bunk. But neither one observe languidly as they, too, roll gently to starboard at the moment. moves to pick up the bottle. It seems kind of amusing and entertain the passengers. watch Captain Oleg practice the “man overboard” drill brains. Grab some grap- attractive crew scramble out to search for two middle-aged la Man o’ War jellyfish. The pling hooks. The brains could be floating out there á air-filled Man o’ War’s cranial lobes could be floating upright like the pearly-blue, sail, with the nerves and medulla trailing below like tentacles. waters, and a sliver of beach Volcanic tree-covered mountains, warm (like the womb) shore near a shack of wood are the entertainment. Three local children frolic on the Their nearby parents are and corrugated tin painted with brilliant blues and reds. cooking barbecue. brain. At nearly midnight, a few “boat drinks” does nothing to recapture anyone’s the is no phone (well, almost), no TV, no e-mail. It is a fine thing not to know the tabloid news, politics, or war. There is no media beating the latest scandal to death. The sense of competition drops away. we make some signs to leave on shore? waiting for them. walk across. light-path bright enough to the to the sumptuous breakfast buffet? Or take a dip in Take a shower first? Or go breakfast? ship’s salty pool, and THEN grey matter seems to have departed somewhere near order to make a decision. The certainly seem to have jumped ship. the Grenadines. The brains and by my senses — NOT by what I must do today. The change of reality is a delight: new people, foods, scents, voices. The neighbors who moor their yachts in our cove may be from England, France, Canada or the BVI. less accumulation of the material things we seem to value. Homes are built of bright or faded wood with tin roofs. Colorful clothes are hung to dry, pulling on lines like kites in the breeze. Flowers grace the yards with hummingbirds as visitors. Fish can fly. These latitudes are floating between past and present. clouds that haze and halo the tops. Rain showers shift lights and darks across the hillsides. Bananas or sugar cane grow neatly on the lower slopes, as the fields spread out like clean sheets. Clear and brilliant daylight streams down through rips in the clouds, pouring spilt gold and pushing the cloud-shadows away. Spices scent the air. Fresh nutmegs and seashells fill a jar on my night stand. My brain, however, is nowhere to be found. luggage and of jobs still waiting. feet like hyperactive puppies. It will happen just about as we get into a line and someone starts complaining. Brazilian drink which I had never before heard of nor tasted. So, you see what I mean. The Case of the Missing Brains: Missing of the Case The If, like Carol, you must lose your mind, the on which to do it AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 Hurricane LuísapproachingBarbuda,September5th,1995 work. Justwhatthatpointisintermsofwindspeed the “nail”standard. still alotofplacesonotherislandsthatarebuiltto in 1995wethrough-bolteverything,butthereare nail willalmostdo?”Well,sinceHurricaneMarilyn industry intheVirgins:“Whyuseascrewwhen built condo?Weusedtojokeintheconstruction that haven’teverseenarealblow?Afriend’sunder- people, thatwon’ttakeyourdog?Marinabuildings options ashore?Publicshelters,filledwithpanicked properly securedIwouldsticktotheboat.” houses blowingapartinhurricanes,ifIhadmyboat stay ontheboatortogoashore.Withstoriesof guard yourboat,thenmakethedecisionwhetherto Ivan convincesmeIwasfarsaferinthemangroves.” forever beso.Asforsafety,alookaroundashoreafter anyway —ithappens.Iamentitledtotry.Maythat been aboard.Andcountlessstoriesofthosewholost aboard, aswellthosewhocouldhave,hadthey stories ofpeoplesavingtheirboatsbecausetheywere ly, justkeepinganeyeonthings.Therearecountless extreme winds(ifany),andthingstodobelow—most- that. Also,thereisworktobedonebeforeandafterthe done ondeck.Ithinkthelimitismuchhigherthan that, above75knotsofwind,nousefulworkcanbe agree ishisinsistencethatonemustgoashoreand proved usefultomany.Butwhereweseriouslydis- learned somenewthings,too.Itrustthatthearticles he said,wasremindedofthingsI’dforgotten,and remarkably comprehensive.Iagreewithmostofwhat ( beach atLilliputandseekshelterashore? aboard yourboat,ortrussituplikeGulliveronthe You havetotuckintoamangroveswamp.Doyoustay The worstthatcanhappenifyougotoseaisdie. hauled outortiedinthemangroves,isyourboatlost. of itall. a strangeharborindeterioratingconditionsattheend long “dash”to“safety”problematical,withanarrivalin gear orcrewfailure.Allthesearefactorsthatmakea might become30knotsandten-footseasmaycause running fortwodaysdownwindandseainwhat engine maypackitin,thestormveerleftoftrack, The windtypicallydiesthedaybeforeastorm,your frompage19 —Continued Compass Yes indeed,uptoacertainpointyoucandouseful Also tobeconsideredis:justwhatareyour “Do allthepreparationsthatarepossibletosafe- “Brad Glidden’s‘HurricaneSurvival’articles Now, youmaynothavetheoptionofleavingtown. Stay AboardorGoAshore? Remember, theworstthatcanhappenifyourboatis

, July,August,andSeptember2004)were

hours andthreeeyepassesasthestormmeandered Lagoon, St.Maarten,forHurricaneLenny.After30 has friendswhostayedaboardinSimpsonBay have theoptionofgettingoffboat.YourAuthor seen uptillnow,thenquadruplethem. think abouttheworstsustainedconditionsyou’ve Remember theforce-goes-up-as-the-squarerule, on yourage,fitnessandboat’scharacteristics. 75 knots?80?100?Somewhereinthere,depending and rollitsgunnelsintotheseaishighlysubjective— or waveactioncausingtheboattopitchitsbowunder www.cruisingguides.com. dleries orfromCruisingGuidePublications, Hurricane Survival your life? it allgoestohell,andwhat’sworthmore,yourboator what’s comingatyou,whatthefall-backpositionisif admirals. Decidejusthowmuchyoucanhandle, lives ourselves.Well,hereyougo.Ignorethebarstool be freeofoutsideinfluencesandgettorunourown make. Weallhaveadoptedthissailinglifesowecan each one,andlogicwillprevail.” Now imagineaninexperiencedfamilyoffourinside images ofwreckedandruinedboatsafterahurricane. safe ashore.Moregraphically,putinyourmindallthe boat awayasbestyoucan,rentahotelroom,andstay es, andthebestadvicetogivethemissimply:Put don’t knowwhattheyshoulddoasastormapproach- growing populationofneophytecruiserswhoreally and thenGETOFF!” the spraylikeachargingbull.” the surfaceandcomingtowardsmeemergingoutof pletely onherside.Themastsarelayingalmostflat wind andsea,sheisbearingdownonmelyingcom- [is] a62-footketch.Withthecombinedforceof is nowayIcandoanything.…headingdirectlyforme Delphina off anydriftingboats—atotallyimpossibletask;with One ofthereasonsforstayingonboatwastofend look forwardtoseeayachtdraggingdowntowardsme. be blownorwashedovertheside.…Myworstfear:I on thebowforanhour,surethatifItrytomovewill bay.… thedecksarenowfullyawash….Iamtrapped The problemis,ifyouguesswrongmaynot Brad Gliddenistheauthorof Stay safe. Staying orgoingisthetoughestcallyouwillhaveto “…the Caribbeanisbecominghometoarapidly “If yourboathastostayinthewater,doallyoucan, Last butnotleast: You’re goingtofendTHAToff,Skipper?

bucking likeanout-of-controlbronco,there

NOAA story in being mangled. fallen intoacrevicekeptherfrom of her.Onlythefactthatshehad the rocksandboatrolledontop for it;onecrewmemberslippedon by thedrawbridge.Theyhadtoleap ended uponthegranitebreakwater to abandonship,astheirboat and theywatched,withnooptions around, theirmooringsfinallyletgo face up,holdingontothestan- myself fromthedeck,solaydown, with suchforceIamunabletoraise in theback.Awallofwindsweeps though anexpresstrainhashitme no sound,butsuddenlyIfeelas anchor lines…Thereisnowarning, Grenada. “Igoforwardtoadjustthe about stayingaboardduringIvanin

feet, comepoundingacrossthe later estimatedtobeinexcessof25 chions. Withinseconds,waves, , availableatbookshopsandchan- Steve Woosterwroteahair-raising Compass’s A Cruiser’sGuideto April 2005issue Flyingfish VenturesLtd Marine Survey throughout theCaribbean throughout Marine Survey Martinique andSpiceIslandMarineinGrenada and manyboatyards,includingCarenantillesin reducing windagebypullingthemastifpossible, “hurricane pits”. Virgin GordaYachtHarbouroffersstorageindug Marina inTortola.Goingtheotherway—down those usedinthisphototakenatNannyCay dles, heavy-dutysandscrewsandstraps,suchas high winds. effective waystokeephard-storedboatssafein boatyards throughouttheCaribbeanhavelearned blown infrompaststormstheregionisthat direct hitbyahurricaneisgood.” together, thenthechanceofyourboatsurvivinga chocked withplentyofscrewstandsproperlytied ‘dead men’,securedinaspecialcradle,orwell ashore… withthehulltieddownstrapsto Street says,“Ifyourboatisproperlysecured including weatheringhalfadozenhurricanes,Don done byGrenadaMarine. photos ofcradle-storedboatstoclients,asis them. Extraspecialservicesincludee-mailing off isdiverted,and/orbygravellingorpaving stand” surfacesbyensuringthatheavyrainrun- across theboardhaveimprovedtheir“hard (see itemonpage6)offerthisoption.Yards PURCHASE –INSURANCE-DAMAGE Accreditation - American Boatand Yacht Council Marine Surveyors,Grenada STAND UP! Many experiencedsailorsalsorecommend Innovative systemsincludegalvanizedsteelcra- “It’s anillwindthatblowsnogood,”andthegood After 50yearsofCaribbeancruisingexperience, ADMIRAL MARINE [email protected] Tel: Grenada (+1473) 4074388 Grenada Tel: Society of Accredited MarineSurveyors Y Ocean Yachtmaster(Commercial) RYA GET UP, Accredited MarineSurveyor Accredited Bob Goodchild AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 has Mima Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware Gentlemen’s Guide to Passages Guide to Gentlemen’s All of the things we once took for All of the things we once and head for the open sea. The furniture tric bills, water bills and so on, and on tric bills, water bills and so and on…. were not granted (and had to learn The water “granted”) are now back. always comes on when we turn on the tap — the tanks are never empty! The electricity always comes on when we flip the switch — we don’t have to charge the batteries. There is Internet all hours of the day or night, we can run the air conditioning whenever we want, the garbage is picked up at the house and we can just get into the car and go to AM It seems that we have now closed the chapter of we have now closed the chapter It seems that We have moved ashore. We now have a house We have moved ashore. We , said that learning another language would another language that learning , said our lives where we were sea gypsies. our lives where been sold to a great couple who are going to take been sold to a great couple will have as great a up cruising and we hope they much as we did. We time as we did and learn as as much as we have hope that it changes them is a good change! been changed — because it Republic of Panamá. just outside of Panamá City, for us. It is not a We love it. It is a great house things we need and grand house, but it has all the we did not consider it sure fit our budget. What such problems dis- was that all the things we had when we moved onto entangling ourselves from now that we the boat, we are having to re-establish car insurance, tele- are back on land. There are post-office box, elec- phone, cell phone, television, And the SPACE! Figure that a 50-foot boat which is 14 The question, I guess, is: Is the Grand Adventure And it changed us. One of the books we depended One of the books changed us. And it When the weather turns bad, we don’t have to won- is not built-in and can be moved. Things placed on a table just stay there! The cost of homeowners’ insurance is less than a tenth the cost of boat insurance. Toilets don’t need to be pumped 20 times by hand; just pull the handle and they flush by themselves. feet wide and pointed on one end has (maybe) 500 square feet of room, of which 100 square feet is engine room. That leaves 400 square feet of living space — including bedrooms, bathrooms, kitchen and sitting area. Now, our terrace alone is 468 square feet. My wife, Steph, came in the other day, just amazed, to report that her walk-in closet had as much room as the cabin where we slept for the past eight years. We really don’t know what to do with all of this space. We just sit and look at it for the most part and enjoy being in our house. over? The answer is: NO! The only thing we wanted to do, and did not get to do in these past years, was to explore South America. We want to see Tierra del Fuego, the mountains of Chile, the forests of Brazil and the hundred other places we have heard of and never got to visit. We are now situated where we can travel to South America a lot more easily than from the States and we plan to explore in the next few years. It will take a few more months to get our life in order here, and then we will be off on Chapter Two. rich and some were poor. It just did not matter. We not matter. did It just poor. were and some rich and each other and enjoyed what we had shared we were. where Van Sant’s on, Bruce South just being a it did not say was that change you. What meeting and from place to place and nomad, drifting you just as the people, would change interacting with a lot less now able to be happy with much. We are new car and in the US. We don’t need a than we had are just as we know that other brands fine clothes; people speak Del Monte and that nice good as Tide or all sorts of languages. the store if we need something! der if the anchor will hold or if we will be forced to leave harbor at 2 e-mail: [email protected] z Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear Steph, before (left) and after (above) swallowing the hook. Will ‘dirt dwelling’ measure up to the Grand Adventure of living afloat? 452 0311 ) 758 ( By Tom Lane Fax: z FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR SEA GYPSY A RETIRING A RETIRING And we met people. People from all walks of life — We read all the books we always intended to read, books we always intended We read all the Johnson Hardware Ltd. Johnson Hardware ly, but we fixed it. We have written articles for the sailing magazines, the local papers and the cruisers’ magazines. We managed to sail for over eight years and 12,000 miles without damaging the boat. We got damaged some, but we healed. from mechanic to orthopedic surgeon, from counselor to power company engineer — and we made more friends than we ever dreamed we would. We all had something in common: we were trying to survive — and we did. We spent long evenings anchored miles from any town, talking and drinking rum and just being ourselves. We drank our rum with no ice and swapped sea tales, we learned to be grateful for what we had and not to miss the things we did not have. We learned that where a person comes from is not nearly as important as who he or she is. Some were “Pirates of the Caribbean”, we have sailed those sailed we have Caribbean”, the of “Pirates same visited the same beaches, walked the waters, also We have the same docks. and been on castles visit, ever get to that only sailors lot of places been a coral fish and seen tropical clear waters, dived the by in learned to get by most. We in pictures only seen nights at and have spent many French and Spanish English. almost no one else spoke gatherings where met a lot of lived in Venezuela and studied Spanish, ran from We ran from hurricanes, great people there. the sea when and learned the ways of tropical storms, had almost when it was horrible. We it was calm and always quick- and we fixed it — not everything break, Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils 452 0299 ) THOUGHTS FROM THOUGHTS 758 ( Tel: Tel: , to get used z Mima

ell, we appear to be somewhat settled here on settled somewhat to be we appear ell, It is of land in Panamá. small plot our own living as from boat as different just about

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia W Well, we adjusted. We adapted. We learned. We If we did not have something, we learned to live with- It was a Grand Adventure! If you saw the movie It took us nearly one year to make the transition year to make us nearly one It took was the boat, Ah, then there Want to turn on the light and read? How are Want to turn on the light learned that we had to make and store electricity before we could use it. We learned that we had to make and store water before we needed it. We learned to wash clothes by hand and buy supplies from small stores. When we got to large towns, we learned to stock the boat with the things we needed now and the things we knew we would want a month or so down the line. We learned to live with the ocean, the weather and nature in its raw and “close-up” self. out it. We learned to live a very simple life, close to nature and very close to the sea and its weather. We learned to read charts and maps, navigate and sail, just like our grandfathers did. As the years passed, all of this stuff became second nature to us. boat living is from having a house. a house. is from having boat living called a boat we life to having a “normal” from living land life was untangled from the home. Just getting — electricity, there were all the services unbelievable: — and untold cell phone, insurance water, telephone, cancelled or that had to be either other things When paperwork was a real nightmare. changed. The a boat some- that we would be living on we told people it just didn’t Atlantic or Caribbean Sea, where in the them. make sense to you going to get the electricity? Want to make you going to get the electricity? to get the water? iced tea? How are you going — forget it! Want the Want to make a phone call How about those tall, Internet — forget that too! have? How are you cold drinks boaters always do you get the soft going to make the ice? Where have clean clothes? drinks or mixer? Will you them by hand and Sure, if you are willing to wash way, did you store you have the water. (By the got a car? Nope soap?) And speaking of shopping, you use to get to — just a 12-foot dinghy that store… if there is one! land. Then you walk to the to. It was not all that big. The furniture was all all that big. The furniture to. It was not what you got. Set built in: what was there was top of the furniture, something else down on move, sometimes gen- though, and it was likely to tly and sometimes quite fast! AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 36) ROW 35) NAILS 33) POOP 29) TON 27) HULL 25) SHEET 23) MIDDLE 22) SEAMS 21) QUARTER 19) FOREDECK 16) WAIST 15) CARGO 13) HE 11) RAILS 10) STEEL 9) PUMP 5) TOP 3) BEAM 1) FLUSH ACROSS Crossword Solution have afewfriendsaboardtoliventhingsup. hook inanewplacemaybethebestsolution.Perhaps your headandenjoydreams. the sails,crawlintoyourbunk,pullmosquitonetover opposition toyourightnow,sojustsettheanchor,cover Enjoy it! reach ahighpointaroundthe17th. like workingontheboat,butcreativityandlovewillboth sail through. love life.Easeyourmainsheet,bearoffalittle,andyou’ll business aroundthe25th,precededbyroughseasinyour sailing bynextmonth. fluky windsandchangingcurrents,allwillbeplain tractions thisAugust.Trytoholdasteadycourseinthe ative inspirationcominginSeptember. decks ofpreviousmonths’projectstobereadyforthecre- winds pickupinthesecondhalf.Continueclearing The hightidewillbebetweenthe17thand24th. love allcontributingtoyourbusinessorfinancialsuccess. with favorablecurrentsofcommunication,creativityand the winds,holdontoyouremotionalhelm. input fromcreworcruisingbuddies. working afterthe7th.Don’tbedistractedbynegative be byyourself;asolopassagecouldjustthething. on therocks,especially17th.Takethistimetojust negative aspectuntilthe20th.Youmightfeelyourlifeis good advantageinbusinessdealings. ideas willfinallybeappreciated.Hoisttheseaspectsto This monthshouldberatherboring.Hangingonthe Creativity, communications,loveandbusinessareallin Smooth seasandclearskiesaretheorderofmonth. You’ll havefun,funthismonth!Youmaynotfeel There willbesomeconfusionandmisunderstandingsin You’ll betemptedofftherhumblinebyavarietyofdis- This willbeamonthstartinginthedoldrums,butfair This willbeaverypositiveandproductivetimeforyou, While thosearoundyouarecastingtheircomposureto Tropical torporgotyou?It’sokay—you’llfeelmorelike Love, communication,creativityandbusinessareallin Sail on!Communicationsclearupandyourcreative AUGUST 2007 SAGITTARIUS (23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN (22Dec-20Jan) QAIS(21Jan-19Feb) AQUARIUS SCORPIO (24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS (21Apr-21May) GEMINI (22May-21Jun) CANCER (22Jun-23Jul) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) VIRGO (24Aug-23Sep) ARIES (21Mar-20Apr) LIBRA (24Sep-23Oct) 13) HELM 12) AFT 10) STOPPER 8) BEARS 7) APE 6) POST 5) TRI 4) MAR 3) BELOW 2) UPPER DOWN 46) PROW 45) HMS 44) KNEES 43) ASH 42) TEAK 41) SPAR 40) ARE 39) LOAD LEO (24Jul-23Aug) 43) AS 42) TAR 38) DECK 37) OR 36) RAKE 34) SWELLS 32) HALF 31) CLEATS 30) NAPS 28) UP 27) HOUSE 26) TOP 24) IRON 20) EYE 19) FIBERGLASS 18) CARDS 17) OAKUM 14) PIPE in everybounteousworld. ensuring sublimeexpression into aperfectlyblendedbeing, marrow andmysticalspirit seen andunseen, life’s melodies,entwining on uptolaughterthatringsandsings from theverycoolestdepths to befilled,omnipotentandfree, Only then into beguilingemptiness. beyond fearorregretting becoming onewithgravitationalbeing, until wavesareaswantedeurythmicbreath, over andaheart-filledchest, known tomermaidsandmoonbeams to washtidalrhythmsofwisdom, allowing wavesofwhitewater into aseaofwonder, Another womanwadeswaistdeep, Wisdom Waves of — RebeccaGensemerFink Island Poets Let’s workhandintosaveourwhales! This isreallynofairytale— So helpsaveusallfrombecomingextinct. We aretiredandscaredoflivinglifeonthebrink, Chasing uswithyourharpoongun. Sometimes youputusontherun, Stop throwingharpoonsatmyface! So whenIrisetothesurface And aplacetoraisemyyoung. I’m justhereforthesun I meanyounoharm, No needforalarm, There isnothingbetterthantheCaribbeanSea! Life isgood;thefoodfree— That’s howIroam. From countryto The seaismyhome; A WHALE THE CRY OF Keithon isastudentattheBequiaSeventhDay Adventist SecondarySchool — KeithonGrant AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Solution on page 30 — through 27 Across 38 Down or elsewhere 23 Across 38 Down ‘Decks’ ACROSS stem to stern with no breaks 1) 38 Down laid 3) 38 Down support 5) 2D +38 Down is handy to move water 9) A 38 Down ____ 3 Acrosses are made of this 10) Some 38 Down stern, hand or toe 11) These can be male crewmember 13) Pronoun for this is stowed on 38 Down 15) If containerized, fore and main masts 16) 38 Down between to bow 19) Area from foremast main mast 21) 38 Down abaft 22) Spaces between 38 Down planks 23) Second 38 Down 25) Sail control line 27) Body of ship 29) 15 Across weight measure to taffrail area 33) ______38 Down: mizzenmast diamond-shaped heads 35) 38 Down _____: spikes with 36) Propel with oars the Plimsoll Mark 39) ____ waterline is shown by ___ better than one! 40) On a catamaran, two heads of a naval vessel 41) ____ 38 Down: uppermost one 42) Durable hardwood for 38 Down with oars in a calm 43) ____ breeze: progress made 44) 38 Down 3 Across reinforcements 45) Her Majesty’s Ship (abbr.) of a ship 46) Archaic term for bow structure DOWN Shelter 2) 38 Down between Main and 3) Beneath the 38 Down 4) El ___ Caribe (Spanish) 5) A ___maran is a multi-27 Across 6) This can be stem or stern 7) 38 Down ___: a muscular crewman 8) Heavy mats used to scour wooden 38 Acrosses 10) Ringbolt in 38 Down to prevent cable going overboard at sea 12) The 33 Across 38 Down is ____ of the mizzen mast 13) Steering station 14) Hawse____: cylinder to pass anchor chain 17) Rope fibers used for caulking 18) You need a full 38 Down of these 19) Today, a 38 Down is more often made of this than wood 20) Pad___: one fitted to a plate which rivets to 24) ‘Wooden ships and ____ men’ 26) Platform supported by lower mast’s trestle-trees 27) Structure on 38 Down with gangway on either side 28) Toward the wind 30) What the off-watch often does 31) Notorious toe-stubbers on 38 Down 32) Space between bulkhead of steerage and forepart of 34) Large ocean waves 36) To fire shells lengthwise of a vessel’s 38 Down 37) Either 38) What a floor is to a building, this is to a vessel 42) Slang for 38 Down hand 43) __ good __ it gets SS SS EE EE EE EE CC CC II II UU UU VV VV 36 37 36 40 QQ QQ RR RR II II EE EE NN NN SS II SS II

TT TT KK KK RR RR II II 22 AA 27 28 27 AA HH HH rossword MM CC MM CC II II Full Service Station: 42 14 BB BB Mobile: +696 29 28 12 C Conveniently located at Didier and Maria Caribbean Compass 2007 Saturday by appointment On-line! © tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 16 17 - Grocery - Ice - Cigarettes - Cold Drinks - Fuel/Diesel/Gas - Laundry - Call Station located at Carenantilles dockyard LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE e-mail: [email protected] Tel: +596 74 70 94 Fax: +596 7478 08 Tel: Open 7am to 7pm Sundays: 7am to 1pm - Breakfast (Coffee, Croissants) - Fishing Items Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) Voiles Assistance Carenantilles Dockyard LE MARIN 43 ruising ruising C Subscribe to the 18 19 20 Caribbean Compass Caribbean 1 2 4 3 6 5 41 15 www.caribbeancompass.com ompass 78 21 35

9 10 12 11

13 38 39 44 45 46 23 2423 32 31 30 29 33 25 26 34

C parlumps marooned AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2007 © sides oftheirbodiesweregoingtoactasescorts.Asyoucanimagine,Merrywasin cottage thenextdayatsevensharp.Deep-waterfishwithglowinglightsalong with thecutestblackcurlsyoueversaw.GempromisedtopickMerryupathercoral ball withme.” was celebratingtheweddinganniversaryofGem’sparents. as mucheitherofthemcouldtakeawayfromwheretheyfeltathome.Theball sunny, coralreefhome.Theyoftenspentweekendstogetherhowever,butthatwas Marcus, buttheydidn’tlivetogetherbecauseMotherMermaidhadpinedforher was Gem’sownmother,wifeofMerman Mother Mermaid’sball.Mermaid Merry. Gemwantedtoaskhercome necessary, hemadeaspecialefforttofind spear withthreeprongs)forprotectionif them all.So,takinghistrident(thatis maids andMerrywastheprettiestof company, especiallythatofprettymer- esting storiestotell. water creaturescomevisitingwithinter- tom oftheseaandmanywonderfuldeep- It isalwayscalmandpleasantatthebot- homes wherestormsnevertroublethem. don’t likeleavingthecomfortoftheirown they areunfriendly;it’sjustthat aren’t verysociable.Iwouldn’tsaythat never seethem.Notonlythatbutthey choose toliveindeepwaterandsowe they do,thensodomermen. yes, ifmermaidsexist,whichofcourse water surroundingherhome,shemetupwithGem,thesonofMermanMarcus.Oh an easymeal?)Well,onedaywhenMerrywasswimmingaboutinthelovelyclear M Merry wasveryhappytoacceptGem’sinvitationbecauseheSOgoodlooking “I’ve beenlookingforyouallover!”greetedGem.“IwanttocomeMother’s But Gemwasstillyoungenoughtolike The troublewithmermenisthatthey bigger. Thenitcomes outandgrazesonseagrassalgae. conch burrowsinto the sandforaboutayear,allwhile feedingandgetting place. Thismeansthat itchangesshapeandbeginstogrow itsshell.Thebaby sea foraboutthreeweeks. Thenitsinkstothebottomand the adultconchweare familiarwith.Thebabyiscalleda es uptohalfamillionfertilizedeggsinone spawning. on thefemaleandreleasespermforreproduction totakeplace.Thefemalereleas- and thefemale(Sally).Themalehasalong ‘arm’whichhecanrestinsideagroove out ofthewatersothatvisitorscansee thedifferencebetweenmale(Jerry) The conchfarmhastwo‘tame’which emergefromtheirshellswhenlifted production andmarketingoffarmedconch willenablewildconchstockstorecover. cially endangeredspeciesbecauseofover-fishing. ConchWorldProvohopesthatthe Caribbean regionformanyhundredsofyears butconchisnowonthelistofcommer- cial conchfarm.Meatfromthequeen( one specieswhichisbeingsuccessfullyfarmedinthisregion. DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS A concheggis There areseveraldifferenttypesofconch butthequeenconchislargest. In Providenciales,TurksandCaicosIslands,youwillfindtheworld’sonlycommer- Last month,welookedattheprosandconsoffishfarming.Nowlet’slook (Remember howthatsharkwiththetoothachegotitintohisheadtocatch the reef,thankstoallofhergoodfriends,especiallyglassysweeper. ermaid Merrywasstilllivinginherbeautifulcoralhouseonthefarsideof He

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e a . takes the specialword. sarily intheordergiven.Findwhichcodesymbolrepresentseachletterthenfind million conchperyear—agreathelptoglobalstocksofthisfascinatingcreature. ed andthemeatsoldlocallyorexported.Theconchfarm’sgoalistoharvestone so thatalargepercentageofthemsurvive.Theadultconchcanthenbeharvest- conch farmkeepstheeggsandbabiesinspecialtraysthenfencedponds predators suchascrabs,lobsters,fishandoctopuslikethemfordinner!The wild, onlyasmallpercentageofconcheggsandbabieswillgrowtoadulthoodas mature conchlargerthanseveninchesandwithflaredlipscanbetaken.Inthe ment oftheconch’sbody. the yearsgobyandhasabeautifulpinkcolourinside,rubbedshinymove- about threeyears,theshellgrowsalip.Thelipbecomesbroaderandthickeras conch hasawhiteshellwhichbecomesbrownasthegrowsolder.After er. Welldone,Mr.Needlefish! as hardshecould,Merrycouldnotfindwheretheedgeshadbeenbroughttogeth- tailor hadsewnittogetheragain.Wasreallyimpossibletoseethemend?Yes,try away, butthenshethoughtoftheawfultearinhemandhowMr.Needlefish dropped it,beingtoosleepytocare.Shebeganfolditbeforeputtingcarefully successful evening. evening, Gemaskedhertobehisoneandonlygirlfriend.Yes,ithadbeenavery kissed andhuggedeachothertoowhenGemtookMerryhomethat other andpromisedtogiveanevenbetterballthenextyear.GemMerry sea grapes.MermanMarcusandMotherMermaidkissedhuggedeach tle morselsofplantfoodanddrinkinggrapejuicesqueezedfromripe,luscious grateful shewas. pretty faceandhereyessparkledwithpleasure. where thetearhadbeen.Merrylookedatherlovelydressandabigsmilelitup sewing thetornedgestogether.Whenjobwasdoneitimpossibletosee bit, andthenhethreadedthefinegoldsilkthroughhisbeakcarefullybegan wouldn’t doatall. are Houndfishwithfatterandshorterbeaksmakingthemclumsysewerssothey mend Merry’sdress.Therearecertainlyneedlefishwholiveonthereef,butthese a beaksolong,thinandsharpthathewasthebestpersoninwholeoceanto the way,Mr.Needlefishtailorwasanoceanicfishwithalong,slenderbodyand and rubieswasatrifleoverdone,butMerrycouldn’tresistputtingonallherbest waist andmatchedthedeepgreenofhereyes.Anecklacebraceletemeralds showed offherbrightredhairthatfloatedinglossytendrilsdowntoslender en sheathsparklingwithsilversequinsandrainbowbeads.Acoronetofemeralds a panicallthenextdaytryingtodecidewhatwear.Inendshechosegold- The followingwordsfromthepassagearerepresentedincodebutnotneces- WORD PUZZLE Most countrieshavefisheryregulationstopreventover-fishingofconch.Only Conch growtheirownshells.Astheconchgetsbigger,sodoesshell.Ababy THE END It wasaballtorememberwitheveryonedancing,laughing,eatingdelicatelit- “Nothing toit,mydear.Nowhurryalongtheball,youtwo,andenjoyyourselves.” “Oh thankyou,Mr.Needlefish!”Merrycurtsiedtoshowjusthowvery In notime,Mr.NeedlefishwasatMerry’sside.Heinspectedthetear,grunteda So JerryswamoffasfasthecouldtorouseMr.Needlefishoutofhisbed.By by LeeKessell The nextmorningMerrypickeduphergoldengownfromthefloorwhereshehad him tobringhisgoldthread.” and fetchMr.Needlefishthetailortell “Not abitofit.Here—Jerry,hurryoff the escortsboomedinhisbigdeepvoice, Merry. “You’llhavetotakemehome.” zippy noise. coral prongandrippedwithanasty hem ofhergoldensheathcaughtona was suddenlypulledupshortwhenthe brown face.NowonderthenthatMerry black curlsawayfromhissmooth, A circletofsapphiresheldhiscute, silk embroideredwithgoldenseastars. rigged outinhisbesttunicofturquoise anything buteachother.Gemwasall hands andneitherofthemhadeyesfor side readytolighttheway. Gem arrivedatherdoor,escortsoneither finery. Shewasreadyandwaitingwhen But beforeGemcouldprotest,oneof “Oh, mydress!It’sruined!”sobbed Gem andMerryswamalongholding Answer onpage 39 AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 it pulled into . While reflect- PM AM we arrived in Port Antonio. The smiling AM Finally the bus lurched into the night. It was obvious the driver knew every curve was obvious the driver knew lurched into the night. It Finally the bus locals scur- on this Saturday evening, through many villages As the bus traveled on the bus or by the people but rather felt quite We felt no threat for our safety Our night was nearly over and at 12:30 Filled with rural villagers and large bags of produce, meats and furnishings, Filled with rural villagers and large bags of produce, meats through the night the bus from Kingston to Port Antonio traveled ‘forever’ bus traveled forever through the night and somewhere around 11:30 bus traveled forever through the night and somewhere looked up wearily with some nodding, while others shook their heads. Consequently shook their while others some nodding, up wearily with looked the camera. smiled into sight but most ducked out of of people a number slow to a along the road and suddenly bus would be moving quickly and bump. The drop off to sleep passengers managed to of pot holes. Most of the crawl over a series often washboard, roads. lumbered along the rough, as the noisy bus car stereos and loud music boomed from the dusty streets, while ried up and down happening but was obviously night life scattered along the way. There sidewalk bars stopped, peo- lit conditions. When the bus pick out through the dimly it was hard to goods. The bus onto the roof, unloading off and someone would climb ple would get when and where and they knew a lifeline for these rural communities was obviously people getting off the bus smiled and gave affectionate to expect its arrival. The jokes passed back and forth. We had trouble decipher- words to the driver and little as Jamaican patois was spoken by everyone. Sometimes ing much of what was said and speculate on the gist of the conversation. we could catch the odd word the enjoying this unique experience. It seemed comfortable and at home, thoroughly driver dropped us off right at the marina gate. ing on the tired faces trekking up the hill, we suddenly felt lonely as we were now ing on the tired faces trekking up the hill, we suddenly felt sadness for the passen- the only passengers, save one, left on the bus. We also It was obvious their night gers who had to pack their goods all the way up the hill. was far from over. a mountain village and began unloading the majority of the cargo. People could be a mountain village and began unloading the majority a steep road. The driver told seen in the dim light loading up parcels and trekking up until 4:00 us on some of his trips the people pack their goods home Wind and Sea Day Charter, Mayreau,Tobago Cays, Palm Island, Mopion Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878 [email protected] Okaou Boutique Souvenirs, Craft,Tee Shirts, Pareos, Bathing suits, Furniture and more… Tel: (784) 458 8316 Bougainvilla@vincysurf .com Seaquarium Restaurant & Bar Seafood specialties, Live lobsters (Sept to Apr), Bar, Pizzeria, Pool, Table Games and its Giant Aquarium Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8311 [email protected] The Dock Water Station, Dockage, Watertaxi, Ice (Blocks & Cubes), Bakery (French bread) Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878 [email protected] Union Island ALL ASHORE… ALL

and by the time we made a report and by the time we made a PM

by Bev Bate Bougainvilla We had left our boat on a mooring ball in Port Antonio, Jamaica, for five weeks We had left our boat on a arrived in Kingston Our flight from Vancouver We planned to take a taxi to Halfway Tree, We planned to take a taxi where one bus orig- The taxi driver insisted we go We journeyed through back streets with the Here among transport trucks on the street with traveled to a small mar- It was over an hour later when the bus finally pulled out,

while we returned to Canada. around 4:00

Bus Ride Bus Jamaican Jamaican where we had successfully caught local buses to where we had successfully always earlier in the Port Antonio in the past, but convinced us not to day. This time our taxi driver of its reputation as a go to Halfway Tree because who frequent the hot-spot for transient thieves waiting for area seeking out innocent passengers of the day. buses in the closing hours Although it would inated its trip to Port Antonio. take the longer east coast route around the island (about 65 miles instead of 43), he assured us it was a good, safe bus and he could guarantee us a seat on it. driver to a location where transport trucks were lined along the street in various states of repair. A dilapidated-looking bus was set to pull out onto the street where the taxi dropped us off. It looked like a horror bus from a Central American mountain village. The driver assured us his bus was safe and that he would be driving us all the way to Port Antonio, but it would be a very long ride. Bill looked around the bus, checking the tires, the front end and the axles. They appeared to be solid and the tires had good tread. This gave assurance that the drive train was safe and only the body of the bus was dilapidated. over one hour to wait until departure, I realized I would have to make a “pit stop”. Sheepishly I approached the bus driver asking if there was a toilet I could use. The driver reluctantly said that there was, but it would be most unsavory. I responded that I was a boat person, and if it meant going behind a bush, that was okay. He worked up a bit of a smile and directed me to the facility used by the mechanics. It was cleaner than many service station restrooms I’d encountered. the local garbage pile. The ket and backed in for another lengthy wait right beside people appeared out of the stench of garbage and urine was very unpleasant. Several roof of the bus. Bill checked dark and we heard the noise of someone climbing on the and bags of groceries, some and found people approaching the bus with large boxes was placing them on a roof of which were being passed up to a man on the roof who filled to capacity, as was the rack. After about an hour of loading, the roof rack was and furnishings. Every time interior of the bus, with large bags of produce, meats shuffled out of the way while another person boarded the bus, bags and boxes were all local people, with bright the person maneuvered their way to a seat. They were obviously very tired. Bill smiles and warm greetings, and unusually patient although a photo. Suddenly, the faces went to the front and asked if it would be okay to take and arranged for delivery of our luggage that and arranged for delivery in on 5:00. missed the flight, it was closing AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 speakers infrontandback. ride and,morelikely,thejoyofraucoustunestilldetonatingfromoversized more composedofustwo.Buttheteenswereinhigheuphoriaoverthrill imminent, infact.Peterlookedapprehensive—abadsign,ashe’sdefinitelythe catch mybreath,gazingaroundatthisdeath-trap,anddeathseemedprobable; Numerous limbshungsuspendedfromopenwindows.Inthehotair,Ifoughtto make room,half-seatswereyankeddown,andyoungchildrencollectedontolaps. wool inthecolorsofEthiopianflag.Mothersamplegirthsqueezedcloserto coins tothe“conductor”—ayoungboywearingbulgybobblehatofmulti-colored “Crikey!” Ithought.“Areweboardingthisthing?”hissedtoPeter. motioned forapick-up,anditskiddedtostop,practicallydoingwheelie. reling forward,vibratingtothereggaebeat,wheelspulsing.MyhusbandPeter “Rastaman” announceditselfinscarletlettersdownthesides,anditcontinuedbar- impending fury.Isteppedbacktomergewiththestatelypalmbehindme. red, yellowandgreen.Schoolchildrenrushedtheroadsidestoescapeitspathof morning breeze.Abeat-upvanroundedthecorner,paintedinRastacolorsof before wesawit:Thunderousreggaemusicblastedfromaroundthebend,riding said thewomanatlocalfarmer’smarket,whoseadviceI’dsought.Weheardit decided. IfSuedidit,thenIwould.She’sthemoresagaciousofustwo. the daymeltedustopuddlesofoilybutterfromliterssunlotionwe’dapply,I morning routinetogetusallofftheboatintimemakefallsbeforeheatof now, foradventurestucktomeliketwosidesofVelcro.Beforepluggingmyselfintothe it? OfcourseNOT.But—wouldIdoThatwasthepuzzlingquestionnaggingme — atallorderforthis50-year-oldcruisingbroad.CouldIdoit?Ofcourse.Should cussions withJonandSue,itwas“decided”thatwe’dalljumpfromthetopoffalls and otherteensintheharbor. Sue, andtheirteenkidsChrisAmanda; and Warren;ourfriendson husband PeterandI;ourteensons,Adam Sisters Waterfalls.Allofusweregoing:my feine. Today,weweretrekkingtotheSeven lightening boltofenergyfrommymugcaf- foot catamaran,whiletryingtosummona I studiedthemfromthebowof to driftinfromtheirnightlyexcursions,and waters astheredorbrose.Fishermenbegan tropical mistdriftingoverthedarkstill still inshadow.Heatrapidlyreplacedthe With lessconfidencethanwefelt,boardedthealready-packedbus,passing “Catch thefirstmorningjitneythatheadsintoGrandEtangforestreserve,” Last nightduringourregulareveningdis- I fringed theharbor,leavinglagoon sun wasjustgildingthehilltopsthat t wasearlymorninginGrenada.The ALL ASHORE… Ocelot Scud , Jonand , our44- U by TinaDreffin n —Continued onnextpage —Continued S d e o v n e e n and thendowndown…’ ‘My eyesfollowedTom’selongatedframe,ashelaunchedintotheair, at the Sisters AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 walked up to stand Toucana The kids had made the summit. Screams drew made the summit. Screams The kids had up into Sue gasp and looked Suddenly, I heard he leaned forward Arms pulled him forward and My eyes followed Tom’s elongated frame, as he hidden in the bottom of my bag, just in case, but just in case, of my bag, in the bottom hidden — you just never strips behind the butterfly I’d left had cut last waterfall trek, Warren know. (On our blood.) stump, leaving a trail of his foot on a tree at the undergrowth next to the falls our eyes to the She’d young girl emerged in tears. bottom, and a had at the top, and her father frozen with fear taut, and down. My nerves grew guided her back risk. considering our sons’ my legs felt weak, and words hung limp in my throat, the clouds. My was falling, suspended I grasped her arm: A body the female shape. in air, a scream running before waters, where a confetti Her body fell into the dark pool below. When her of boulders bordered the sigh of relief. The kids head surfaced, I breathed a “whoop, whoop,” applauded from the top, yelling and then Tom from His arms stretched sentinel at the narrow edge. forward at the waist. overhead, and he slowly bent him not to: Just Surely no! Please no! I willed jump — please! the curve of his body over the falls, tumbling into stretched out in beau- with feet extended behind, dive. A 10! Tears tiful form — a perfect swan his risk. “I am not welled in my eyes, considering mother,” I said to our going to be the one to tell his a mobile phone — friends. None of us had brought public phones nearby, we didn’t even own one! No jitney to flag down for either. Nothing but a crazy any 911s. launched into the air, and then down and down. A splash and his head popped up from the surface. He was triumphant; the kid crowd atop the falls went wild. I pressed my hands to my face and bowed my head: Kids! One after the other they

CHRIS DOYLE Energy spent, we collapsed onto sun-baked rocks to munch on our picnic, idling on our picnic, to munch sun-baked rocks onto spent, we collapsed Energy gleeful Rasta driv- As we stood on the pavement waving down another outrageous, gagging water. Current tugged at my suit, and I thought my skin might peel off. peel skin might my thought and I suit, at my tugged Current water. gagging kissed. the falls, we Behind were supplies big jump. Emergency for the kids’ while waiting away, the afternoon jumped last, helping oth- tumbled forward, dropping into the pool below. Our sons ers go first, encouraging them with “whoop, whoop”. my taut violin strings; er, I realized I had become undone — euphoria had untwined Spice Island. Once onboard, I we had survived another riotous day in the paradise of along with our friends, “No donned my sunglasses, kept my eyes open, and sang the bend, a red orb plunged woman, no cry”, to the beat of Bob Marley. As we rounded — along with a happier me. into the sea, to be resurrected again with the next dawn Our driver drove like a madman, bent on speed. Bodies slid to the right, then left, to the right, then Bodies slid bent on speed. a madman, drove like Our driver of we entered the dark rainforest An hour later, road and disappeared The teens charged up the of trees opened Forty-five minutes later, a gallery loud enough to blanket The falls stretch beyond tree height, releasing a roar “You’re crazy, girl!” she said. I looked at Peter — he shook his head a big no! Sue? and faces mashed against windows when rounding a corner. I knew what my seat- I knew what a corner. when rounding windows mashed against and faces breath. from his the aroma wafting night by the previous had for dinner neighbor of humanity, from the mass seeped Body odor More bodies cloud overhead. into a thick gathering safely 22 in a van that should boarded. I counted my sun- my eyes and pulled down seat 11. I shut rhythm of myself to ease into the glasses, willing is getting “Part of the experience the adventure. to myself over and over. there,” I said the last to forest reserve, and were the Grand Etang blessed now empty. I thanked the get off, the van as we whatevers” for our safe arrival, “whoevers and sore limbs the pavement, rubbing spilled out onto flash, we were lifted into and crunched elbows. In a survived! uproarious laughter: We had adults bantered about into the rainforest, while we nearly late morning, it our ride from hell. Though of vines along the dirt was cool under the canopy Sisters Waterfalls. trail that led to the Seven trees bordered the Cocoa, nutmeg and banana paradise peeked from skinny trail. Scarlet birds of ears that grew along- behind a curtain of elephant a backdrop to the side the riverbed. Hills formed belt along the river- forest that now ran in a narrow with multi-colored bank. Tree trunks were daubed burnt oranges, blues lichens: sulphurous yellows, slopped along the and greens. We slipped and rich sound of the teens’ muddy trail, following the giggles in front. that dropped into an to reveal a tumbling cascade us. Tangled ropes emerald-green pool, beckoning of lianas, called “monkey ropes,” dangled from the dense greens of the undergrowth, reaching out to kiss cascading waters. The kids disappeared into it, racing one another to the top of the falls, first navigating across vast chasms of raging waters of smaller cascades. At the top, there is no honorable return — you either jump or camp out, immersed you over the edge. in your own jittery nerves, until finally someone pushes the backdrop of the hills. words. At the summit, the kids appeared tiny against bottle, and we quickly peeled Whether I do it or don’t was shoved back into the genie rim. The coolness of the clear off our sweaty clothes to dive into the pool from its race to the bottom fury of the green waters swept us away. Peter challenged me in a I couldn’t inhale without falls, where mist was heavy with water droplets, so thick —Continued page from previous AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 Caption way wedreamalushCaribbeanislandshouldbe. riches ofthisuniqueisland.Dominicaisunspoiled,the all aboutprotectingandmanagingthegreatnatural given thegovernmenttimetoplanforagrowththatis or lengtheningtherunwaytobringin747s.Thishas building high-risehotelsandwaterfronttouristzones as thebigmoneyresortshaveshownnointerestin sparse anddarkbeacheshavebeenablessingofsorts soft coralandspongesnotfarbeneaththesurface.The ity ofthewaterandtreasuresbrilliantlycolored and uninviting,notevenhintingatthewonderfulclar- mering aquashores.Thebeachandwatersseemdark and thosehaveblackvolcanicsandratherthanshim- Eastern Caribbean.Theislandhasveryfewbeaches of theforest,itwasindeedintoxicating. Whether itwastheoxygenorsimplequietmajesty lously invigoratedby“alltheoxygeninair.” and sensuousearthysmells.Desirésaidshefeltfabu- and alive.Thewholeforestbreathedoutrichvapors They wereassymmetricalsnowflakesbutverdant foot-tall treeferns,partoftheunderstoryfarbelow. hard tobelieveIwaslookingatthecanopiesof20- along withBigJohnCooperfrom was tossinginlargeroundsoflogstostokethefire glow ofthefire,hadopeneddoorfireboxand swill. Aglisteningblackman,musclesripplinginthe densers thatpullthedevilishrumfromfermented giant vatsofbrewingrumandthesteam-drivencon- saw theoldwaterwheel-drivencanecrusherand tillery, surroundedbyitsownfieldsofsugarcane.We Bling”, andwhatawondrousdayitwas. the daywithWinstoninhisshinyredvancalled“Bling history andlovedtosharehisisland’sstory.Wespent guide namedWinstonwhoknewtheislandandits join themonatouroftheisland.Wehiredlocal Our friendsChrisandYanion Dominica isperhapsthelasttruejewelin Looking downfromhighontheaerialtramitwas The firststopofthemorningwasatasmallrumdis- ALL ASHORE… Durban Dancer Magus invited us, , to story onthewayuptotopofmountain.She Rosa, gaveusawonderfulnarratedtouroftheunder- our opentramwithjusttwootherpeople.Ourguide, queue up. forest beforethebusloadsfromshipstartedto Winston’s planwasagoodone:togetustherain- rainforest isonlyopenondaysthecruiseshipscome. this daythatwasagoodthing.Theaerialtraminthe cruise shipcomingintothetownofRoseau,andon on thecliffsoveroceanwecouldseetherewasa bottles. of itandheadedbacktothevanwithour“souvenir” aged rumforabout$12.Wesampledlittlesipsofall $3 perbottle.Themostexpensiverumwasadark eral weeks,thattastedlikerawfirewaterbutcostonly There wasthecheapwhiterum,curedforatleastsev- examples ofthevarioustypesrumtheybottled. problem isdathedarumtaster,too!” ing butboxershorts.Winstonwinkedandsaid,“His and hishipshardlyheldupwhatappearedtobenoth- even hotter.Hehadnotanounceoffatonhisbody RAINFOREST We werethefirstcustomersofdayandshared As weheadedalongtheroadprecariouslyperched Our hostledustotheofficeandproudlysetout FEAR by JackFoard site atweb.mac.com/famouspotatoes2. Admiral 38catamaran smile wasstrong. It wasawonderfultrip.Mykneeswereweakbutmy us madeitallseemwonderfullyprehistoricandwild. and birds.Thevolcanicmountainsthatsurrounded exposed topsandtheblossomswerealivewithinsects that manyofthetalltreeswerebloomingontheirsun- silently overthetopofrainforestcanopy.Wesaw and tenseknees.ButIdidit! were likerubberfromwalkingsofaronseverelybent we finallyreachedthesafetyofothersidemylegs never stopped,butIreallywasscaredwitless.When got aniceovationandthewordsofencouragement that mademefeellesslikelytofallovertheside. knees moreandtogetlowerlower.Somehow quite realizeit,butasthegorgegotdeeperIbentmy the gorgejustkeepgettingdeeperanddeeper.Ididn’t all thosestepsseemedtohardlyhelpthesituation,as one morestepandstep.Iwasdismayedthat and runbackbutImademyselftakeonemorestep abyss mylegsgotweaker.Itrulywantedtoturnaround through me.Witheachstepfartheroutandoverthe not takelongbeforesmallwavesofpanicbegantoflow swaying bridge,somethingIcouldnotunderstand. one, Desandmyfriendssteppedfearlesslyontothe all eyeskeptglancingbacktoseehowIdidasoneby each stepcloser.Ihadalreadyconfessedmyfear,so the gorgelookedeverdeeperandmoremenacingwith could appreciatehowsturdyandwellmadeitwas.but catch thetramdown.AsweapproachedbridgeI for metohandleIcouldalwayswalkbackupand myself followingalongthinkingthatifitwastoomuch that itwouldbegreatfun.WhatwasIgoingtodo? My pulsejumpedtenbeatswheneveryoneelseagreed little bridgeswayinghighabovethatsteeprockygorge. praying thatnoonewouldwanttocrossskinny as Ihaveadreadandfearofheights.wasjustabout ceed tothetramstationjustbelow.” down wherewewillcrossthebridgeonfootandpro- those ofyouwhowishtomayexitthetramandhike the chasmbelow.Rosasaid,“Whenwegettotop, and couldseeasuspensionfootbridgethatcrossed was veryentertainingandinformative. the punchlinessomehowlosttheirpunch,thoughshe to worksoextremelyhardate-n-u-n-c-i-a-t-i-o-nthat the plants.Butheraccentwassothickandshehad us storiesabouttheaphrodisiacpropertiesofsome pointed outvarioustrees,flowersandbirdstold • Visa/MasterCardaccepted • Activitydesk(Tours, diving andwatersportactivities) • Lightboatrepairand cleaning • Yachtchandleryagents ofBudgetMarine • Telephone&internet WIFIconnection • Garbagedisposal • Cleanrestroomsandshowers • Bakery • Ice&Provisioning(Grocerystore) • Nightsecurity • Securedmoorings • Nearbylaundryservice • Dinghydock • Fuel(MarineDiesel)/Wateratthedock • DinghyBar Jack FoardiscruisingtheCaribbeanaboard I wasthrilledtogetbackonthetramandglide After wehadclearlypassedthepointofnoreturnI The sidesofthegorgedroppedawayquicklyanditdid When thetramstoppedtoletgroupout,Ifound Riding onthistramwaspushingmycomfortlevel, On thewayupwecrossedhighaboveadeepgorge & soonMercuryMarine Famous Potatoes. [email protected] www.dominicamarinecenter.com Capitainerie Tel:+7672752851 THE CITYOFROSEAU UNIQUE INDOMINICA VHF: 16WorkingCH:19 Fax: +7674487701 SITUATED IN Visit hisweb- AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 PM VHF CH68 CH68 VHF Daily – 10:30 Phone (784) 458-3458 The Flamboyant Hotel AM BEQUIA AM lunch and dinner We serve breakfast, Tel: (784) 458 3041 The Flamboyant Hotel The Flamboyant -midnight (50% off all drinks) VHF Ch68 or Tel: (784) 458 3474 VHF Ch68 or Tel: PM Tel: (473) 444-4247 Closed on Mondays OPEN until 3 Pool *** Sports TV *** Admiralty Bay, Bequia & 11 Open Daily 6:00 Located at PM RESTAURANT & BAR RESTAURANT Open from 11:00am to 10:00pm. to 10:00pm. Open from 11:00am -7 the Frangipani and Plantation House. Information & Reservation: (473) 444-4247 Information & Cocktails *** Relaxation *** Parties *** Cocktails *** Relaxation & Shoreline Mini-Market in Grenada for fun and fine food fun and fine for in Grenada Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! PM In addition to our famous pizza we offer Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between Admiralty Bay, Situated in A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people. Monday: Grenada Buffet & Crab Races Monday: Grenada Steel Band Music Wednesday: Dinner & Extempo Calypsonian Friday: BBQ BEACHSIDE TERRACE TERRACE BEACHSIDE The home of Grenada’s Longest Happy Hour!! The home of Grenada’s Longest 4 Beachside Terrace - your special place special TerraceBeachside - your PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR PORTHOLE RESTAURANT New Location at Gingerbread Café MAC’S PIZZERIA seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods. Located directly on the beach at Located directly on the beach For Reservations:

For the Gardeners First locate some eddoes to plant. For a nice-sized Keep eddoes watered and they should sprout new Eddoes must be harvested in the dry season when Cream of Eddo Soup Cream butter 2 Tablespoons chopped 1 medium onion, minced 2 cloves garlic celery 1/4 Cup chopped peeled and diced 2 pounds eddoes, broth 4 Cups chicken bene, chopped 1 bunch chadon to taste Salt and spices in onion, a large pot on low heat. Stir Melt butter in Eddo Shoestrings 2 pounds eddoes Salt and spice to taste four Cups) Oil for deep frying (three to strips (about 1/8 inch Peel and slice eddoes into thin Eddo Cakes 1 pound eddoes, peeled and grated 2 Tablespoons flour 2 chadon bene leaves, chopped fine 1 medium onion, chopped 1 medium sweet pepper, chopped 3 Tablespoons butter Salt and seasoning to taste. Blend grated eddoes with flour and chadon bene, ‘Cruising on roots! We found a hairy odd-shaped one in Carriacou called “eddo”’

and season to taste. Cook onion and pepper in butter until brown. Drop eddo mixture by large spoonfuls into the hot skillet on top of the onions and peppers. Cook until golden brown. Cakes should be about three inches in diameter and less than one inch thick. Carefully turn with a spatula. row you need a five-gallon bucket of starter eddoes. Fork the row about 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Pull dirt up so the row is about eight inches high. Plant the starter eddoes so the green stem points upward. Space the roots about six to nine inches apart. stems in two weeks. For a small vegetable plot, or even a flower garden, eddoes make a nice border, but initially will take daily watering. A soaker hose is a useful tool to get the eddoes growing. Eddoes grow up, not down as most roots, so dirt must be carefully pulled around the protruding roots. This molding will cause the eddoes to start more of the small clusters. Once a month, fertilize with diamonium sulfate and phospho- rus. the leaves yellow, wilt and disappear. This is usually a five- to six-month cycle depending on the occurrence of rain. Use a fork and carefully pry the clusters of roots from the soil. Then wash and store in the sun to dry. Once dry, store in a cool dry place. garlic, and celery. Add eddoes. Cover and cook for 15 Add eddoes. Cover and garlic, and celery. eddoes are chicken broth and boil until minutes. Add and spices to taste. Serve soft. Add chadon bene, salt a blender and purée. it as it is, or put soup into for half an hour then thick), Place strips in ice water towel dry. Drop into heated oil and fry until golden brown. Turn with a wire skimmer. Drain on newspaper or paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and seasonings. ) are a SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL SHIRLEY SEA BY AT SERVING EDDOES Colocasia esculenta var. antiquorum will work) , which is made from steaming or boiling them , which is made from steaming Store the roots for up to one week in a cool and dry Eddo is a perennial crop grown throughout the trop- Eddo Garlic Pie 1 pound eddoes, peeled and boiled 2 medium onions, chopped 6 cloves fresh garlic, minced 1/4 Cup flour Salt and spice to taste 3 Tablespoons butter or margarine 1/4 Cup grated Parmesan cheese (Cheddar 1/4 Cup bread crumbs Mash eddoes. Mix mashed eddoes with onions, gar- Bake for 45 minutes at 375°F. Remove and cover Sliced mushrooms, shredded carrots, or other veg- Eddoes provide a good dietary fiber at 110 calories Eddoes can be fried, baked, roasted, boiled or Select tubers that are firm and hairy, with no wrin- Cruising on roots! Seems every island market we island market Seems every on roots! Cruising be yellow, white, but it can also The flesh is usually Eddoes ( location, making sure that the roots do not dry out. ics. Like dasheen (which I wrote about in the June 2007 issue), eddoes will grow almost anywhere. Clusters of smaller brown hairy roots surround the central “head” eddo root, and it is these smaller roots which are harvested. Eddoes flourish easily in moist soil and left alone will naturally multiply. In fact, in parts of the United States eddoes are considered a pest plant. The only problem with planting eddoes is using them all! lic, flour, salt, spices and milk. Place in a greased bak- ing dish or pie pan. Top with butter slices and cheese. with bread crumbs. Return to oven for 10 minutes. Serves four. etables may be added. Eddo pie gets firm as it cools. “hard” way that some eddoes won’t become soft and creamy when boiled, but remain hard. This comes from too much water content. Peeling one will show water or palatable dryness at the center to a trained eddo eye; ask to have this done at the market stall before purchasing. per adult serving with no cholesterol, but two grams of protein. The starch molecules in eddoes are among the smallest in the plant world and make them easy to digest. steamed. Eddoes absorb large quantities of liquid while cooking adding bulk and flavor. Casseroles, soups and stews benefit from these roots. kling. Purchase the really small smooth bulbs that are tiny attachments to the head root. We learned the wheat. First grown in Southeast Asia, eddo was first wheat. First grown in Southeast about the time of Christ. recorded by the Chinese the Mediterranean long Eddoes were grown around as “taro root” in Hawaii, before the potato. Known of the Hawaiian dish eddoes are the main ingredient poi before mashing them into a paste. visit has one or two “new to me” root vegetables. We root vegetables. “new to me” one or two visit has called odd-shaped one in Carriacou found a hairy broth can- friend Rudy says a good “eddo”. Our local without them. not be prepared Irish potato, The taste is similar to an pink or orange. should nutty flavor. Raw eddoes but with a pleasant oxalate as all varieties contain calcium never be eaten considerable crystals can cause you crystals. These If you are disappear during cooking. discomfort, but gloves when it might be wise to wear new to eddoes, the skin. peeling as they can irritate very old food; they have been cultivated longer than very old food; they have been AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 subscription to share withfriendsandfamily. each individualpageisprintable,for thosearticlesyouwanttofileor for thepostmantoarrive!Theentire on-lineissueisdownloadableand promptly everymonthwhile“backhome” —withoutanxiouslywaiting while traveling.On-linesubscribers willenjoythecomplete home, atwork(weassumemarine-related researchisapproved!)or articles, photosandadvertisements includingtheclassifieds—at be abletoreadeachcompletemonthly issue—everypage,withall Caribbean Compass www.caribbeancompass.com. On-Line Subscriptions Sunbuilt Hardware Buzz Restaurant St. LuciaYachtClub The BoatyardPub Rodney BayMarinaBoatyardOffice Sea Spray Ben’s Chartering The BreadBasket NBC Bank The SailLoft Regis Electronics Razmataz Restaurant DSL YachtCharters Scuttlebutt’s Restaurant Johnson Hardware Island WaterWorld RODNEY BAYAREA ers inthisissueappear free monthlycopyofthe Check itout!Tell your friends!Forfulldetailsongetting youron-line When you’renotintheCaribbean,with anon-linesubscriptionyou’ll Great newsfor Read inNextMonth’s Ahoy, Traditional BoatsRaceAroundGuadeloupe Exploring JamaicafromPortAntonio Compass Now Available! PICK UP! Compass Being BoatlessinParadise Readers! WheninPuertoLaCruz,Venezuela,pickupyour Compass are nowavailable! Compass Caribbean Compass bold , visitourwebsite: – andmore! readers —on-linesubscriptionsto ): SMMA office SOUFRIERE AREA Cocokreole Hotel Moorings inMarigot Marigot BeachClub Oasis Marigot JJ’s ParadiseResort Discovery atMarigotBay Villa Zandoli The Shack MARIGOT BAYAREA at anyoftheselocations(advertis- Compass Compass : northern Leewards,substitutedoradoorsimilarwhitefishforthebarracuda. American (i.e.non-alcoholic)appleciderorsweetcider. chopped tomatoes,thenthereservedcider. were cooked. book, writtenespeciallyforpeoplelivingonboats. Court BayonthesouthcoastofGrenada. 14th at9:00 aired onSaturday,July television specialwhich highlight ofanhour-long coast ofSt.Lucia,wasa fishing villageonthewest turesque anchorageand fest atAnseLaRaye,apic- a goodovernightanchorage exceptintimesofnortherlyswells. you don’thavetowait. AnselaRayeholdsitsfishfestevery Fridaynight,andit’s was thehighest-rated cookingshow. and lastyearthe local produce,saltfishandbananaketchup. island’s fare,including cased examplesofthe Robby Skeete,andshow- Market withlocalchef Plantation andCastries Fond DouxCocoa ning PaulaDeenvisited Food Network’sEmmy-win- ** Inareaswhereciguatera(“fishpoisoning”)exists,suchastheVirginIslandsand * Bon Appétit! Serves four. Three minutesbeforeserving,sprinklewithgarlicandparsley. Cook inhot220°C/425°Fovenfor20minutes. Season totastewithsaltandpepper. theslicedpotatoes andonions,thenthefish, In anovendish,arrange Coat fishwithflour,andbrownbothsidesonhighheatintheoilwhichonions Slice onionsfinelyandsimmerinoliveoiluntiltranslucent.Remove. Peel andslicepotatoescook10minutesinboilingcider.Remove,reserving Cooking time:30minutes Preparation: 10minutes Parsley, finelychopped 2 garliccloves,finelychopped Salt andpepper 200 grams(abouthalfapound)tomatoes,chopped 2 Tablespoonsflour 4 slicesofbarracudaorotherwhitefish** 2 Tablespoonsoliveoil 2 onions 1/2 litre(2Cups)applecider*orwhitewine 6 potatoes Barracuda inCider I hopeyouenjoy! It’s withgreatpleasurethatIofferyouthisrecipefrommyFrench/Englishcook- I’m Luke,ChefdeCuisineandnewmanagerofWhisperCoveMarinainClarke’s A visittotheweeklyfish This specialwillbe shown againontheFoodNetworkthroughout theyear,but Forbes St. LucianSeafoodStarsonTVSpecial This istheEuropeanorBritishciderwithalcoholiccontent.ratherthan Une Casserole magazine listedDeenontheir“100Most PowerfulCelebritiesin2007”list PM (EST). The à laMer Wall StreetJournal

said hershow,“Cooking withPaulaDeen”, DOMINIQUE SERAFINI DOMINIQUE AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 in ! Apartment ✽ Compass & Marine Centre & Marine PADI Dive Shop Barefoot Barefoot Yacht Charters Yacht ✽ REMEMBER Raymarine Electronics Raymarine ✽ ASA Sailing School Restaurant, Bar, dinghy dock Restaurant, Bar, dinghy ☛ ✽ E-mail: [email protected] Spare parts ordering & dodger repairs at great prices & dodger repairs at great http://www.barefootyachts.com ✽ St. Vincent - professional sail, bimini St. Vincent - professional to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in St. Best Full Service Vincent’s Dolly’s Answer Tel: (784) 456-9526 Fax: (784) 456-9238 Bareboat & Crewed Charters Bareboat & Crewed Internet Café - Fax and weather service Facility for Visiting Yachtsmen Visiting Facility for Surfshop - Watersports Centre - Boutique Surfshop - Watersports Special word: CARIBBEAN Blue Lagoon, St.Blue Lagoon, Vincent & the Grenadines ✽ Doyle Barefoot - the only sail repair loft Doyle Barefoot - the only ✽ mainland about the nouveau riche —Continued on next page S/V Raven Eye , Compass Please accept this response to the June Forum’s let- I am the cruiser net announcer in question. Over the Yacht insurance buyers should be aware that yacht should be buyers Yacht insurance in recent years the Every indicator suggests that in the size and frequen- With the dramatic increase I have had the privilege to live through the period in There is little argument among yacht insurance pro- I have never derided the improvement that GPS has Harking back to my long-lost youth on the Texas I would like to add that our experience is that the ter from Katie aboard unorthodox VHF cruiser’s net which until recently had been broadcast here in Margarita on Friday mornings. past year, I’ve delivered some 50 broadcasts of “Funky Friday Morning Edition of the Porlamar Cruisers’ Net”. I am also guilty of 72 similarly idiotic cruiser net broadcasts in Luperon, Dominican Republic (2001- 2002) and 12 irreverent broadcasts in Grenada (2005- 2006, which inspired an even more irreverent three- CD series known as “The Grenada Cruiser’s Thirty Minute Radio Hour”). being based on the conventional waterfront wisdom so wisdom waterfront conventional on the based being sundowners. over often expressed insur- speck in the infinitesimal is but an insurance factors by external is affected and ance marketplace for the is important Therefore it its control. far beyond as much as business to stand alone yacht insurance than is paid in more in premium possible by taking specific loss I do not have access to the out in claims. overall insur- but the status of the ratios for yachts, world’s finan- well documented in the ance market is reports and filings, annual cial press, governmental as a result of sources. It is known that multiple other the world’s in the past three years, natural disasters took in to paid out far more than they insurers have or damaged properties. insure the lost far from profitable. Absent insuring of yachts has been statistics but rely- the specific yacht premium-to-loss dealing with the ing on almost 50 years of experience some facts seem self- ebb and flow of marine claims, mariner who evident. Just as the experienced 40 knots in harbor can observes the wind blowing offshore, the increas- reliably forecast that it is rough claims across the claims ing flow of more and larger of the market as can be desk is as good an indicator had a rough period. had. The yacht insurers have decade, I cannot conceive cy of yacht claims in the last of 2004 and 2005 that the yacht premium income to the claims outflow. We could come anywhere close exit the market in the have seen at least three insurers other well-intended yacht period and are aware of before the subject insurers who went into receivership insurers remaining in the period. Many of the yacht and draconian terms market have added restrictions to their policies. There is not a queue of enthusiastic insurers clamoring at the barricades to get into the yacht insurance business. which yachting grew from the domain of the rich and famous to the present “everyman” level and I know of no other series of disasters affecting the yacht insurance market which will approach the 2004 and 2005 experiences. I was intimately acquainted with Hurricanes Audrey, Carla, Camille, Betsy, Andrew, and Hugo in the years before Ivan, Wilma, Katrina and Rita, and can say with certitude that the latter quar- tet of apocalyptic storms was far more destructive to the yacht insurers than was the previous group. fessionals that there are more and larger claims today than in years past. Using the same flow-of-claims logic cited above, it is my opinion that the percentage of claims to vessels insured has increased significantly and that the size of the claim has increased exponen- tially. Unfortunately the actual statistical information is not at “my fingertips” as you suggest, but is “seat of the pants” information. made to navigation (I am not an idiot). But if Captain Campbell could sit in the claims desk for a few days he would be astounded at the GPS stories that cross the desk. One underlying factor which we see regularly in those relying solely on electronic charts is the surprise when their vessel humps on a shoal which was charted before Francis Drake was a cabin boy. I believe that paper charts are a necessary supplement to the GPS and the electronic gizmos sold to the boating public as a panacea for navigation ills. (There is nothing as comforting to me on a dark night in close proximity to shoals as physically putting an accurate ”X” on a paper chart.) Many of the ills in the salvage and boat-repair businesses trace their existence to the GPS which encourages the increasing horde of “over- confident boat owners who lack basis sea sense”. waterfront (and based on seat-of-the-pants statistics), I believe that vessel owners and operators of the period were more competent than the owners who today commit the truly outrageous lapses in common sea sense which result in insurance claims. Caribbean boater, excluding Puerto Rico, is a far superior seaman to his or her US counterpart. Such is life at the yacht claims desk. Peace and good sailing, Guy Matthews Texas Dear Compass . I don’t know Compass , , .

, Compass Readers’ Forum Readers’ Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass Compass As mentioned in its footnote, the article in question I read with interest Guy Matthews’ article “Yacht Alas, Mr. Matthews suffers from one of the same In particular, he boldly proclaims “brave” yacht While it is probably true that there are many more Mr. Matthews also claims that the GPS has been a Sure the GPS can be abused. Sure the GPS has led We have asked Guy Matthews for his comments on First, I hope that the platoon of surveyors with whom Second, I am not a spokesman for any insurer or Please note that apparently the Caribbean Maritime Please note that apparently Dear when or why they changed, but we found out only when or why they changed, on 7241.0. when we no longer heard it Regards, Bill Campbell S/V Alcheringa II was excerpted from a presentation given by Guy Matthews to the annual meeting of the US National Association of Marine Surveyors in Galveston, Texas, in April 2007. The presentation, geared toward profes- sionals in the field, was very much longer and more detailed; the choice of what to include in the Dear Ken, Dear Insurance, Past, Present and Future” in the June 2007 issue of complaints he makes against surveyors — lack of precision [and] lack of data to support his claim. insurers heroes for continuing to insure yachts during a time of “unprecedented” and “horrendous” losses. Alas, there is not one number, not one statistic, nothing in his article to back up this sweeping claim. I for one doubt it is even true. I, one of many, question the high rates charged by the insurers. recreational and personal sailing and motor vessels out in the world today, is it really true that the percentage of claims is greater than in the past? Is it really true that the cost to insurers is greater than ever before compared with the amount they take in? If it is, it would be most kind of Mr. Matthews to give us the data. Since he is in the yacht-insurance business, surely he has this information at his fingertips. blessing “to salvors, surveyors and boatyards due to numerous groundings, strandings and other unto- ward events caused by over-confident boatowners who lack basic sea sense”. While this may be a small part of the story, I’d bet that the GPS has done more in avoiding such situations than the paper charts of old. Proof of that may lie in the history of shipwreck after shipwreck across the Caribbean in days of yore. What skipper in the 18th century and up to GPS times wouldn’t have given an arm and a leg for a GPS during storms where star sightings could not be had, where in rough weather even a good star sight could be a mile off position, and where dead reckoning was close to just that. to more unskilled sailors going out to sea, but on balance, I’d wager it has done more to prevent wrecks than cause them. Ken Campbell S/V Magic the particular information you found lacking or questionable in our version of his presentation. His response follows. CC I deal daily do not find out that their oracle is charged with the surveyor’s most serious of crimes — lack of precision and inadequate data support. Touché. special interest and the opinions which I express are empirically based on personal viewing of yacht insurance claims crossing the claims desk rather than article, and what to leave out, was the editor’s. Mobile Net (George) has moved to 7250.0, not the Mobile Net (George) has moved 7241.0 listed in the June 2007 Dear AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 In factanythingyoucanthink of- ePaeBe aia Petite Calivigny BleuMarina, Le Phare Leathering SteeringWheels&Grabrails [email protected] Laying-up Covers&Dinghy Dave &JaneRoyce Exterior &InteriorUpholstery Dodgers, Biminis, Awnings, Stak-paks &Sailcovers, Tel/Fax (473)4432960 rnd,West Indies Grenada, we haveitcovered! SCIENTIFIC SAILMAKING NEW L Agents for OCA TION in Porlamar (nowfromahandheld smuggledintosoli- viction(s), I’llcontinue tovolunteerdothenethere radio journalismethics orwhatever).Pendingmycon- mention acoupleof injunctions filedbysomeboardof international maritime communicationlaw(notto pending myindictment on130separateviolationsof Porlamar Cruisers’Net”isnowonindefinite hiatus plaints, the“FunkyFridayMorningEdition ofthe never dreamedI’dgetbustedbythedamn VHFpolice! And maybeyou’reright,butonething’s forsure:I you out,thengee,maybeyou’vegotthewrong hobby”! satire, you’regoingtopissafewfolksoff. Ifthatbums might reply,“Heyman,ifyou’regoingto doirreverent know Icandothatwellenoughbyaccident.) Thenyou deliberately pissanyoneoff.(Thosewho knowme versy, detractfromaharmoniousharbor spiritor trying tohaveagoodtimeouthere,notcreatecontro- just alow-life,longhairedvagabondhippiecruiser were annoyedwithmeforquitting.Butheyguys,I’m with anypettyVHFtechnicalities.Afewfansactually cowardly or“lettingthebastardsgettome”andhell believe inrulestoo.TheyarerightandIwaswrong. must betaken.Whenitcomestomattersnautical,I technical, howeveranal,rudelydelivered, plaints havenowcomeforth,theirpoint,however the absenceofcomplaints.However,sincethosecom- would haveconcernedmyselfwithVHFregulationsin any VHFcruisernetdoesso).Thataside,Inever pen toservealegitimatepurposewell(totheextent ly notmystupidcruisernet,evenifitdoesalsohap- not music,humor,entertainmentandcertain- for legitimate,necessarymaritimecommunications, the legitimateuseofVHFradio.ismeantsolely ers” rightfullyobservethatsuchbroadcaststranscend was thatmynetswereillegal.TheVHF“by-the-book- even thoughnoone’sentitledtoanynetbeginwith? to doso?WhoamIdenythemtheirconventionalnet, turn theirVHFoffbutwhothehellamItoforcethem my program)mademeuncomfortable.Sure,theycan (the twowordsmostcommonlyusedinhighpraiseof minded few,findthebroadcastsirritatingormoronic it? Don’tlisten!Seemsfairenough. one thatmeetstheirapprovalineveryway.Don’tlike right toexpectacruisernetatall,letalonedemand overboard”). Andit’struethatnoonereallyhasany that suckeroutbytherootsandthrowdamnthing suggested duringsomeofmybroadcasts,“justtear like it,theycanjustturntheirradiosoff”(or,asI’ve Many supportivecruiserstoldme“Hey,iftheydon’t fun outofitforme.Yes,Iknowwhatyou’rethinking. them? Isn’tthatavaluablepublicservice?) never dateanyonewhohashadafungusnamedafter intent. (Imean,what’swrongwithadvisingcruisersto inappropriate, seemedtounderminethatoriginal felt mynetwastoounconventional,controversialor that. Butallthenegativewavesfromthosefewwho a yukortwointhemorning,unforgivablesinslike create alittlepositivespiritintheanchorage,giveus mirth andmerrimenttothenetonceaweek,maybe the conclusionthatmaybeitwouldbebesttostop. volity andItried,reallydid.Butgraduallycameto to ignoreitall,carryonwithallthejokesandfri- had alotofexperienceinthatregard. guy! IcantellwhenI’vepissedsomeoneoff,having calling outobscenities.Hey!I’maperceptivekinda started disrupting(keyingout)thebroadcastsand/or plaints. Ikindasensedthiswhencertainlisteners ciated, justlikethecommentsfrom ments, enthusiasmandsupportallgreatlyappre- years, I’vereceivedonlypositivefeedback:compli- cruiser’s netatall. lar areaofexpertise).Sono,notyourtypicalmorning personal relationshipsatimeortwo(myownparticu- think Imighthaveevengivenadviceonromanceand forgot totakemyschizophreniamedication.Hell,I cruising charactersmightchimein,especiallywhenI this. You’dneverknewwhencertainother(fictitious) one anotherandaboutwhyweareouthere,doing and thepeoplewemeet,aboutwayrelateto relevant questionsaboutrespectfortheplaceswevisit three-minute “radiosermonettes”,askingourselves 20 seconds).Sometimes,I’veevenofferedtwo-or dinghy security)andplayingrockmusic(forawhole munications technicalitiesbysingingsongs(about doubt violateddozensofinternationalmaritimecom- lead. Amidstallthebuffooneryandjokes,I’veno around usandthisridiculouslywonderfullifeweall poke funatourselves,thecruisinglifestyle,world weather, securitymatters,etcetera—buttheyalso (too) seriously.Theyincludeallthenecessities— spoof “normal”cruisernetsandthosewhotakethem nuts. Yes,they’resatirical.Irreverentlyso.they tle different.Okay,alotmynetsare frompreviouspage —Continued That’s right.Promptedbytheaforementioned com- You maydisagree.Manyhave.SomefeelI’mbeing And finally,allthebadvibesaside,nakedtruth True, butknowingthatsomeothers,evenanarrow- Secondly, allthegriefIstartedreceivingtook First ofall,thewholepointhadbeentoaddalittle Why didIgiveitup?Threereasons. Now, allthefansofFunkyFridayNetadvisedme However, morerecently,therehavebeencom- But mostcruisersreallyseemedtolikeit.Overthe If you’veeverheardone,youknowmynetsarealit- Raven’s Eye. and ageneratortokeep thelaundryfunctioning. which wereatbreaking point—withfood,medicine US$38,000 wasraised tosupportthehospitals— the parishworstaffected. Inaddition,inexcessof remote villages,principally inSt.David’s,whichwas and otheradhocorganisationstobe distributed to Bequia andVenezuela,wasflowingthrough thisgroup ing andlocalcommunitiesinBarbados, Trinidad, Within daysaid,donatedanddelivered by theyacht- to helpthosewhowereunable themselves. destroyed, theyusedwhateverresources theyhadleft houses oryachtsthatwereseverely damaged or by thehurricane.Whilemostofthesevolunteers had pooled theirresourcestosupportthose worst affected of internationalyachtspeople,ex-patsand Grenadians reported ever. sidered bytheUnitedNationstobemostunder- Day TsunamiandHurricaneKatrina),wasalsocon- ly followedbytwocentury-classdisasters(theBoxing disaster ofimmenseproportionsand,beingsoquick- cent ofGrenada’sgrossdomesticproduct.Thiswasa International MonetaryFundtobemorethan200per- devastated, withdamageestimatedbythe one-third ofGrenadianshomeless.Theislandwas 4 HurricaneIvanwhich,onSeptember7th,2004,left working withthepeopleofGrenada. as a12-monthproject,hasclosedafter33months Dear so beforepresstime. Allen Chastenetforaresponse,butwereunabletodo S/V SecondMillennium John Pompa productive thanhyperbole. applications tothosewhostoppedby. a cupofJamaicancoffeeandhandedoutpassport kiosks inanumberofUSairportswheretheyoffered ing “woeisme”,tookapositiveapproach.Theysetup Jamaica who,insteadofwringingtheirhandsandcry- should followtheexampleoftheircounterpartsin passport regulationsdogointoeffect?Perhapsthey Caribbean doingtopreparefortheinevitablewhen lation ofallOECScountriescombined.) in theUSismorethan13to20timestotalpopu- numbers intoperspective:thenumberofillegalaliens and howbesttohandlethatsituation?(Toputthose undocumented (i.e.illegal)personscurrentlyintheUS regarding theestimated13millionto20 debate currentlytakingplaceintheUnitedStates have theynotbeenpayingattentiontotheheated ders sincetheterroristattacksofSeptember11?And that theUnitedStateshasbeentighteningtheirbor- non-cricket fansstayedaway? of thousandscricketfanscomingtotheislands, Cricket? Orpossibly,becauseofallthepredictions “disastrous” (Mr.Chastenet’sword)WorldCup price-gouging CTOmembersengagedinduringthe tors totheCaribbeanismoreofadirectresult out oftheyear?Isitpossiblethatdeclineinvisi- already haveonlyaten-percentoccupancysixmonths build moreandhotelstoaddthosethat Caribbean islands,includingSt.Lucia,continuingto “overwhelming evidence”comefrom?),whyarethe Hemisphere TravelInitiativepassportrule.” suffered considerablyasaresultoftheWestern ing thattourismandcommerceintheCaribbeanhave Association —CTO):“Theevidenceisnowoverwhelm- Tourism (andchairmanoftheCaribbean department: Dear S/V Nomad Keith Smith Caribbean Compass Cruisers’ Net(orifyoureadithereinthepagesof Funky FridayMorningEditionofthePorlamar doubts. Butrememberthisfolks:ifyouhearditonthe even thoughthecourt-appointedpsychiatristhashis Really. Honest,Iwill.Myattorneystoldmetosayso acceptable cruisernets.Inthemeantime,I’llbehave. conventional, strictlyinformativeanduniversally publicly andmostsincerelyapologize. more austereandnormalcruisers’net,Idohereby anyone orfailedtoliveuptheirexpectationsfora has beenmypleasure.TotheextentIhaveoffended a smiletoyourfaceandifIeverdid,I’mthankful.It and encouragement.Again,myonlyhopewastobring used tolookforwardit. Friday frivolity.Sorrytothose(includingme)who advice ofcounsel,withoutanytheearlierFunky tary confinementhereonCellBlockF)but,the CrisisShield grewoutofthisdisasterwhen agroup CrisisShield cameaboutasaresultoftheCategory CrisisShield’s GrenadaAppeal,originallyconceived Quote fromJuly2007 Editor’s note:WeattemptedtocontactCTOChairman Surely, somethingalongthoselineswouldbemore What arethetourismofficialsofEastern Hasn’t theCTObeenpayingattentiontofact If whatMr.Chastenetsaysistrue(wheredoesthis Allen Chastenet,whoisalsoSt.Lucia’sMinisterof So, let’sgetbacktobasics,moreserious, But mysincerethankstoeveryonefortheirsupport Compass Compass , Readers, ) thenitcertainlymustbetrue! Compass —Continued onnextpage —Continued , Info&Updates AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 SAIL cell: 340-513-3147 e-mail: [email protected] office: 340-0714-6271 POWER www.maritimeyachtsales.com Fax: 340-777-6272 MARTINIQUE BOATS FOR SALE FOR BOATS www.acyachtbrokers.com Independent Boatyard St. Thomas, USVI Independent Boatyard E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: Port de plaisance du MARIN Port de A&C YACHT BROKERS YACHT A&C 47 Stevens, 1981 44 Beneteau Oceanis , 1994 1978 44 CSY walkover, 42 Hunter Passage, 1995 42 Catalina MKII, 1996 $ 185,000 38 Kennex Catamaran, 1992 38 Morgan/Catalina, 1996 $ 79,000 37 C&C, 198536 Frers, 1985 1976 36 Cabo Rico Tiburon, $ 139,000 $ 159,000 35 Morgan, 1971 $ 119,000 $ 210,000 198834 Tartan, $ 121,900 $ 29,000 $ 28,000 55 Cheoy Lee LRC, 1980 198050 Marine Trader, 2003 45 Silverton MY, 42 Cruisers Express, 1999 37 Fountaine Pagot Trawler 34 Mainship, 1979 $ 48,600 27 Grady White, 1997 $ 48,500 $ 415,000 198526 Fortier w/cuddy, $ 329,000 $ 249,000 $ 445,000 $ 49,000 $ 149,000 $ 59,900 $ 40,000 $ 30,000

Readers, Readers, GUY DEAN GUY Compass Compass At a time when the workload of the government of the government workload of when the At a time trustees, like to thank my fellow Finally, I would and my imperfect mem- Due to the passage of time joined in — whether To all of you who so generously My name is Melanie Tompkins and I’m a journalist My name is Melanie Tompkins primetime one hour doc- We are currently making a If you have a story or would like more information, Many thanks in advance and I look forward to hear- We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or address, We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Send your letters to: [email protected] or fax (784) 457-3410 or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the Grenadines Jackie van Straalan). van Jackie found many still than normal was higher Grenada like and we would to CrisisShield, give support time to for Reconstruction the Agency thank: to particularly Housing the Emergency Development; and Grenadian Ministry of Legal Affairs; Committee; the — and note Customs; and Coast Guard Immigrations; and the of the Prime Minister’s Office the assistance and Finance. Ministries of Housing was vital. present, whose contribution both past and (UK, US and Bruce (UK); Paul Collis They were: Sarah (US); Davidson (US); Kathleen Davidson Canada); Jim Geankoplis (UK - Chairman); Greta Colin Habgood (US), and (Canada); Ron Richards (US), Promil Paul Vicki Thackray (US). are bound to have ory, others deserving of recognition mentioned or not, all stood been overlooked. However, without expectation of up and made a difference without whom CrisisShield recognition or reward, and existed. could not and would not have or recipient — thank as volunteer, donor, supporter you for sharing the adventure! Nick Bruce, Founding Trustee CrisisShield S/Y Indigo Drum Dear who works for the TV company ITV in the UK. who works for the TV company people’s experiences of umentary for ITV1 concerning abroad. The programme buying and owning property will feature a wide range of experiences from around the globe and will look at owners of holiday homes and permanent residences. We are hoping to speak to as many people as possible with a good story to tell, and would love to hear about a range of scenarios — from damaging weather conditions, to building disasters or even just something strange and spooky about the property that’s affecting their lives. feel free to contact me. I can be reached at [email protected] or on tel +44 (0)20 7578 4227. ing from you. Best wishes, Melanie Tompkins UK Dear and a way we can contact you if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints (kudos are okay!). We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld in print at your request. – ); S/Y S/Y – dam- ) ran the – damaged S/Y Dione ) assisted for – damaged by M/Y Sonia D - former yacht – written off by ) worked for ten S/Y Myriad – damaged by Ivan); ); Paul Pearson ( M/Y Happy Our S/Y Jacobite – lost as a result of Ivan); S/Y Calical S/Y My Way S/Y Indigo Drum – damaged by Ivan); Steve ); Russell Hough; Craig and S/Y Fortuna S/Y Drummer S/Y Fabuloso – damaged by Ivan); Peter and Anne S/Y Little Women S/Y Melika S/Y Delphina S/Y Muskrat ); Cay Hickson ( ); Jesse James; Paul (whose surname and boat- Recognising that meeting these acute support needs these acute that meeting Recognising a further of the Appeal, By the conclusion any organisation like The other key element for Chartered Institute of Our largest donor was the With any operation like this the obvious activity is My wife, Sarah Bruce, ( Working equally hard but on a part-time basis were: Of course, businesses were also of significant assis- S/Y Wend by Ivan) worked for the 33-month duration of the Appeal in whatever roles needed doing (albeit we have both been part-time for the last few months); Jim and Kathleen Davidson ( was only the start of Grenada’s challenges, a number Grenada’s challenges, the start of was only by their aid efforts formalised volunteers then of these Non-Governmental as a CrisisShield registering US and Canada. in the UK, Organisation/Charity chronic need the focus moved to the With this change housing. for hurricane-resistant the total to had been raised, bringing US$264,000 13 new with this extra money funding US$302,050, families left houses for Grenadian hurricane-resistant simple statis- Ivan. But these homeless by Hurricane that months and years of determination tics belie the competing have shown while CrisisShield volunteers operating to attract funding, and with other disasters and culture that pro- in a post-disaster environment to develop tolerance, vided plenty of opportunities Without the self- determination and understanding. volunteers, none of less contributions of these would have been possi- CrisisShield’s achievements to mention all by ble. While they are too numerous everyone involved. name, I would like to thank who are prepared to put CrisisShield is those people The majority were indi- their hands in their pockets. most generous donors viduals, with two of the three anonymity. However, two expressing a preference for mention. organisations deserve particular of Richard Housing. Thanks to the encouragement Billings made CrisisShield Renwick MBE, Barrington Appeal which con- the beneficiary of his President’s to our work. Theirs and tributed a total of US$60,781 instrumental and came at their members’ support was all further lines of a time when, due to other disasters, funding had dried up. Also making a big impact was the fourth largest contributor, Grenada’s Housing Authority, providing US$35,350 of early funding towards four houses which were co-funded by further donations made on island. Other notable donors included Nightingale Charitable Trust, Alasdair and Jean England, Sonia Drake, John Triggs, the Melvin and Bren Simon Foundation, Doug and Gill Hurt, Trevor and Terri Butcher, John Franklin, Andy Green, Craig and Karen Marsh, Greta Geankoplis, Enza Marine, Leon Taylor and a syndicate organised by David Williams. just the tip of the iceberg, with most of the work being hidden from view. While volunteers came and went, notable amongst those who contributed at some stage of the Appeal or other, and who undertook these often thankless tasks, were: —Continued page from previous months running the construction and fundraising respectively; Ron Thomson ( several months in setting up the yard and construction processes; Robert Monnier ( Greta Geankoplis (ex- yard for the time we were building steel-framed houses; Anshu Sharma helped out on the fundraising for a number of weeks. The arrival of these volunteers and the energy they infused was critical to the continua- tion of CrisisShield at a time when we were beset by one unexpected challenge after another. Ivan); Vicki Thackray; Sonia Drake (ex- Wooster (ex- Michael MacIntyre; Claude and Wendy McKernan ( damaged by Ivan); Grant Lambert; Joni St. Bernard; John Triggs ( Sarah Kennedy; Mike Bingley and Lucy Murchie ( damaged by Ivan); Daniela Froehlich ( Robin and Nanette Swaisland ( Jasp Tulaichean II Thomson ( name escape me, sorry); Isabel Slinger; Laura Macneil; Trevor and Terri Butcher ( tance to our cause, including: CoTech (Guy Thackray); Compass Publishing; Palm Island Resort; SVG Air; Island Water World (Jonathan Fisher); Calabash Hotel (Clive Barnes); Horizon Yacht Charters (James and Jacqui Pascal); Enza Marine (Neil Mcleod and then Greta Geankoplis); Outfitters (Alston and Margaret DeRoche); Budget Marine (Junior Cuffie); Prickly Bay Waterside (Jan and Conor); Bananas (Roger, Claire and Myrna Spronk); Ciboney Chambers (Nizam Burke); De Big Fish (Brad); Digicel (Janis Cuffie); Phusion (Richard Ramdhanny and Dee); and not for- getting the now closed Barking Barracuda (Ron and aged by Ivan); Clare Lee; Junior Cuffie; Numa Rais; Steve Aspey ( Karen Marsh (ex- Ivan); Jill Richards; Jill Longson; Inga Luce (Harbour Home); Marilyn Prickett; Allen Brusilow; Pastor Maureen Magneson, and; last but definitely not least, Denyse Ogilvie. AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 use thisemailaddress: If youwouldlikemoreinformationaboutthisjoborsendyourCVtous,please Anyone withaninterestiswelcometoapply. have apositivedispositiontolifethiscouldbeyourDREAMjob. This isaFUNjobwithgreatearningpotential.Ifyouarewillingtoworkhardand We offer fulltrainingonsiteintheCaribbean. Dive master/instructorforeithertheCaptainand/orChefisaplus. Chef/Hostess withabasicunderstandingofcooking. licence. Requirements: CaptainwithaSkipper’s between CaptainandChefthemoresuccessfulyourcharterswillbe. The natureofthejobissuchthatbetterunderstandingandteamwork We prefercouplesthataremarriedORhavebeenlivingtogetherforatleastayear. We arelookingforcrew, mainlyteamsintheformof a CaptainandChef/Hostess. eeeu3S $ 7 0 Jana 52fo $145 000 Jeanneau45.2from $115000 Beneteau411from 50000 50000 $ $ $800000 35”RacingExtreme $550000 HouseBoat 63”Catamaran Princess50 $590000 LagoonCata55S $75000 $75000 Beneteau 38S5 $75000 Wauquiez 38 $219000 Van derStadt46 01 E230000 84 Beneteau 50 $90000 $90000 92 Nauticat 52 03 Jeanneau 35 Beneteau 41S5 BAREBOAT, RACE,CREWEDCHARTERS–REPAIRS,EXOTICMATERIALS T UI,RDE A AIATEL:(758)4584430FAX: 4520742 ST. LUCIA,RODNEYBAYMARINA Call RonCooper (727)367-5004•www.coopermarine.com Caribbean YachtingB.J.Inc • 63x24PowerCatUSCGStabilitytestfor149PAX • FastdeliveryTwinDiesel-BasePrice$299,000 WWW.CARIBBEANYACHTINGBJ.COM Tel. StVincent +7844573407 Tel. StMaarten+5995510550

VIAL O MEIT DELIVERY IMMEDIATE FOR AVAILABLE All newOffshore 53’catamaranTwindiesel, CREW V email: [email protected] or bymailto:BequiaMarina,P.O.Box 194,PortElizabeth, operating TERM CHARTERS, allinclusive,7days. We arethefastestgrowingchartercompany, six destinationsintheCaribbean. TradeWinds CruiseCluboperateafleetofcatamaransacross YACHT CHARTERS,BROKERAGE,SERVICES,RACES 49 passengers, Baseprice$199,000 • Availableassingleordoubledeck AGENT FORNEWJEANNEAUYACHTS [email protected] Bequia, StVincent &theGrenadines CATAMARANS NEW SEATING FOR90PASSENGERS ACANCIES! NEW 63’SAILCAT At St.Lucia’sPitonswepaidforamarineparkmooringbuoy restricted anchorages. anchorages. Youshould giveMartiniqueatrynexttime you’ve hadenoughof Martinique, whichshows accesstoallthosetemptingwindward bays,islandsand consists ofoneduplicated form,andisfreeduringopening hours. dlery (Fort-de-France),inair-conditioned comfort—ittakeslessthanfiveminutes, in Martinique,andit’sfree.Youcaneven doyourclearanceatSeaServiceschan- endangering reefs?Theseare“harbours” andhavealwaysbeensheltersforboats. like Marigot,bywhatauthoritycanboats bepreventedfromanchoringiftheyarenot resort likeCanouan,orsandybaysinanislandMustique,anaturalharbour of earningadollar?Dowehavetogofartherafieldlookforlittleliberty? ly necessarytorestrictanchoringinsuchawholesalefashion?Oristhisjustway anchor, butIgatherthestoryissame. Nowadays theboatsarejustalittletooclosetogetherforpeaceofmind. scratch bandjump-up,arrivingsolofromGrenadaandmaneuveringundersail. Admiralty Bay,Bequia,whichIusedtodoregularlyfortheThursdayevening anchorage infrontoftheCottonHouse? mooring buoy,whichofcourseischargedfor.Whathappenedtothepleasant is theonlyplacewhereyachtscannowstop,andthattheymustmakefastto a we reachedthemooringsinfrontofBasil’sBar,weresurprisedtofindthatthis three andahalfmetres,reasonablyshelteredbehindthestarboardreef.Laterwhen anchor therewhenthewindallowed)wedroppedonasandybottominabout sonnel oftheshoresidedevelopment. they wereabletoanchorfarthernorththanus,butorderedleavebytheper- ran inwhichtheyanchoredCanouan’slagoonthedayafterus.Withshoaldraft have lostmostoftheirfauna. were quitebigenoughthankyou,lazyrays,andmanywhiteseaurchins,seemto The reefsinsidethelagoonwhereIhavesnorkelledwithbigbarracudas,sharksthat memory) tobegreatlydilapidatedcausingtheanchoragefairlyuncomfortable. timetres underthekeelnotfarfromcoralbarrierwhichseems(fromprevious good eitherforsnorkellingoranchoring.Wefoundaspotwithabout30cen- float) insidethebuoyedperimeter. southern reef.Thiswedid,butweresurprisedtofindanactivefishpot(without ing morningwhereweshoulduseabuoyandcouldpaythensnorkelonthe our ownanchor.However,hefinallysaidwouldvisitusatthePitonsfollow- ask for$20theparkfee.AsfarasIknowwewerenotinaareaandused rolling. Notlongafter,theSoufriereMarineManagementAreaparkwardencameto Chris Doyle)whichwedulydid,arrivingatnightfall.Wetookalineashoretoavoid is theHummingbirdAnchoragewhereyoucanuseyourownanchor(accordingto channel, theredidnotseemanywhereelsetogo. out sufficientscopeforthe14or15metredepth.Apartfromreefentrance indicated tomebetweentwocatamaranswhichweretooclosetogetherforput regularly isnowoutofbounds.Ananchoragetotheportsideentrancewas sheer quantityofboats,whatstruckmemostwastheregulations. ern endoftheEasternCaribbeanchain.Apartfromincreasedchargesand the anchoragesbetweenCulebrainSpanishVirginsandGrenadaatsouth- more than20years.Iknewtheislandsreallywellatthattime,includingnearlyall And JeromeNouel has performedalabourofloveinhis cruisingguideto P.S. Finally,apartfromsomefishingregulations, youcananchoralmostanywhere Martinique S/Y Tchin Jeremy Hobday Ah well,luckilywehaveourmemories! And whenitcomestoareallyextensiveanchoragebehindreeffrontingprivate Well, 20or30yearshavemadeabigdifferencetoecologicalissues,butisitreal- We didnotgoasfarTobagoCays,whereIusedtospendmanylazydaysat However, itwasstillpossibletoanchorinfrontoftheFrangipaniHotelat Arriving atBritanniaBayinMustiquecomingfromCanouan(Ioftenusedto In MustiquewemetsomefriendsfromMartiniquewhohadcharteredacatama- Inside thewindwardlagoonatCanouaninGrenadines,conditionswerenot Farther southalongSt.Lucia’scoast,justaroundthecornerfromAnseChastenet For instance,theinnerharbourofMarigotBay,St.Lucia,whereIusedtoanchor I recentlycruiseddown-islandfortendaysfromMartiniqueafteranabsenceof Dear Compass Letter of , the Month

—Continued onnextpage —Continued DEREK BERRY DEREK —Continued from previous page Dear Jeremy, Thanks very much for your letter, which brings up an important issue facing Caribbean yachting tourism development today: the balance between free anchoring and factors which prevent it. Free anchoring has always been an icon of cruising, and one of the main attractions of the Caribbean as a sailing destination, and we hope it always will be. But as you mention, the number of boats sailing in the waters of the Caribbean has increased phenomenally in the past 20 years, and — as in the case of vehicles using the roads or human beings populating the planet — there is inevitably a correlation between numbers of users and numbers of rules regulating that use. While not acting as an apologist for rules and regulations, we’ve done a little research on the instances you mention in the interest of clarification: • The inner harbour of Marigot Bay, St. Lucia: We spoke to Bob Hathaway, manager of The Marina at Marigot Bay. Bob tells us that it was the intention of the Saint Lucia Air and Seaports Authority (SLASPA) in giving permission for the mooring buoy field to be laid in the inner part of Marigot Bay that anchoring in the inner bay should be prohibited except under tropical storm or hurricane conditions. In practice, he says, this position is not being actively enforced by SLASPA and is only being actively enforced by the Marina when the anchored boat would cause an obstruction to access to the Marina, a navigation channel or another yacht already on a mooring buoy. Bob adds, “Compass readers might be interested to know that the net proceeds of the SLASPA mooring buoy field are used exclusively for the benefit of Marigot Bay and have, thus far, been used to fund the installation of lit navigation markers and the maintenance of the water security patrol craft. No profit is taken from the mooring buoys by The Marina at Marigot Bay.” For more information, contact Bob at (758) 451-4275/285-4515 or marina@marigotbay.com, call the Marina on VHF16, or visit www.marigotbay.com/the-marina.html. WILFRED DEDERER

ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, In Bequia we St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 anchored in front of the Frangipani Hotel, but found Tel: (340) 779-1660 the boats just a Fax: (340) 779-2779 little too close [email protected] together for peace of mind Mid Rambler 49' 1979 Mariah 44' 1977 Transpacific Ketch CSY New Rigging, Bluewater Cruiser, Loaded Classic Cruiser $199,000 Sail $115,000 40' 1987 O'Day Sloop 2 strms, new engine, well maintained $ 74,000 43' 1979 Young Sun Bluewater cruiser, AP, radar, liferaft $115,000 44' '82 Ta Chiao CT Canoe Stern, Perkins 4-108 $105,000 50' '90 Morgan Catalina, 3 strm, new eng, chain plates $145,000

Power 32' 2003 Sea Ray Sundancer Low hrs, great weekender $125,000 36' 1989 Grand Banks Trwl, Classic, Twin Cummins $170,000 • The Hummingbird Anchorage, St. Lucia: Jeremy, your copy of Doyle must be an old 42' '81 Post Sportfish Twin DD's, very good condition $159,900 one! The Hummingbird Anchorage has been part of the SMMA since the marine park was officially launched in 1995. On page 182 of his 2007-2008 edition of Sailors 48' '89 Hi Star Trawler Sundeck, 3 strms, 375HP Cats $100,000 Guide to the Windward Islands, Chris writes: “Hummingbird Anchorage: This is the most comfortable anchorage in the SMMA and it is one of the only places where you Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale are allowed to use your own anchor in the park. Unfortunately, anchoring is now only permitted from 1800-0600, so it only works for a one-night stop.” www.stthomasyachts.com Our understanding is that this is a compromise to allow anchoring yet not conflict with traditional fishing activities, such as seine netting, which are permitted in that zone of the SMMA. For more information visit www.smma.org.lc or call SMMA on VHF 16. • Windward lagoon at Canouan: We spoke to one of the staff at The Moorings yacht charter base in Canouan. Although she noted that The Moorings prefer that their guests not go there due to safety factors, as far as either of us know there is no law against anchoring on the windward side of Canouan. However, there apparently has been a problem with people from anchored yachts coming ashore and attempting to use the swimming pool or SAIL 40’ Beneteau M405, 3 cab/2 hd, Loaded ’95 $119K other private facilities at the resort, whereupon resort personnel have asked them to leave 64’ Haj Kutter Schooner, Square Rig, 3 cab/1 hd’30 $475K 40’ Bayfield, 2 cab/1 hd, Ketch, Motivated Sellers ’84 $99K the grounds. (Note however, that all beaches in St. Vincent & the Grenadines are public.) 60’ Palomba Pilothouse CC, Ketch, 5 cab/2 hd ’70 $119K 40’ Catalina 400, 2cab/2hd, Great Condition ’95 $109K • Mustique: Mustique is a privately owned island managed by the Mustique Company. 58’ Boothbay Challenger CC, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd ’73 $295K 40’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3cab/2hd, Well Priced ’00 $112K 54’ Hylas CC, 3 cab/2 hd, Immaculate Condition ’99 $700K 40’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/2 hd ’99 $109K The company is responsible for a marine conservation area extending 1,000 feet offshore 54’ Gulfstar 54, 3 cab/2 hd, Luxurious & Spacious ’86 $349K 39’ Tollycraft Fast Passage Cutter, 2 cab/1 hd ’83 $125K right around the island. For many years now, Britannia Bay has been the only permit- 53’ German Frers, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd ’01 $299K 38’ Hunter 380, 3cab/1hd, Lowest Price on Market ’99 $79K ted yacht anchorage and it has been mandatory to use a mooring there unless they are 52’ Jeanneau Sun Ody, 3 cab/3 hd, Loaded! ’03 $405K 37’ Tartan 3700, 2 cab/1 hd, Upgrades ’03 $219K 51’ Formosa Cust. Ketch CC, 3 cab/3 hd ’80 $199K 37’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2cab/1hd, Motivated ’00 $109K all taken or your yacht is over 50 feet in length. Day charter boats can ask the harbour- 50’ Beneteau 50, Cutter, 4 cab/1 crew/5 hd ’02 $329K 36’ S2 11.0A, 1 cab/1 Qtr berth/1 hd ’85 $49K master for permission to anchor at Endeavour Bay (in front of the Cotton House Hotel). 49’ Ta Chiao CT49, Cutter CC, 2 cab/2 hd ’85 $159K 36’ Tiburon, Cutter/Ketch 1cab/1hd Solid Cruiser ’76 $47K For more information visit the harbourmaster at his office at the foot of the Britannia 47’ Vagabond, Ketch CC, 2 cab/2 hd ’87 $249K 36’ Beneteau M362, 2 Cab/1hd, Lowest on Market ’00 $75K Bay jetty, or call Mustique Moorings at (784) 488-8363, VHF 16/68. 46’ Morgan 461 CC, 3 cab/2 hd ’82 $87K 36’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2 cab/1 hd ’99 $65K 46’ Kelly Peterson KP46 CC, Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd ’88 $249K 35’ O’Day, 2 cab/1 hd, Great Condition ’87 $42K Regarding your last question, “by what authority can boats be prevented from 46’Formosa Peterson Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd ’79 $119K 31’ Bombay Clipper, 1 cab/1 hd ’81 $24K anchoring?” The waters around Mustique and the Hummingbird Anchorage have been 46’ Hunter 460, 3 cab/2 hd 2 avail.from ’00 $149K MULTIHULLS made marine protected areas under the laws of St. Vincent & the Grenadines and St. 45’Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/3 hd ’99 $149K 82’ Dufour Nautitech 8cab/8hd, Major refit ’95 $895K 45’ Bombay Explorer, 2 cab/2 hd World Cruiser ’78 $59K 46’ Fountaine Pajot Bahia 4 cab/4 hd, 2 avail from… ’01 $370K Lucia respectively. Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, a port of entry, is under the control of the 45’ Hunter Marine Passage CC, 2 cab/2 hd ’98 $149K 42’ SolarisCat, 4 cab/4 hd, in Rio Dulce ’86 $109K St. Lucia Air and Sea Ports Authority (SLASPA). 44’ Beneteau 44CC, 2 cab/2 hd, In Great Shape ’94 $189K 40’Fountaine Pajot Lavezzi, Owner’s Version ’03 $295K Behind the question of who has the legal authority to prohibit anchoring are justifi- 44’ CSY 44CC, Cutter 2 cab/2 hd, Reduced – Motivated ’77 $ 85K 38’ Lagoon 4 cab/4 hd, Meticulous owners ’01 $239K 44’ CSY Walkover CC, 2 cab/2 hd, Great Condition ’79 $165K 27’ Heavenly Twins, 2 cab/2 hd ’92 $59K able reasons for such prohibition, which include environmental protection and avoid- 43’ Hans Christ. Christina, Cutter, 3 cab/1 hd ’88 $185K POWER ance of user conflicts, as well as other reasons which might be viewed askance. But 43’ Jeanneau Sun Od. 3-4 cab/2 hd, 2 avail. from ’01 $175K 56’ Horizon Motor yacht, Immaculate Condition!’01 $690K overall there is the need for policies that balance any reasons for “no anchoring” rules 43’ Mason, 2 cab/1hd, World Cruiser ’81 $99K 48’ Horizon 48 Motor Yacht, 3 cab/3 head ’00 $310K 42’ Dufour Gibsea, 3 cab/2 hd, Well Maintained ’01 $125K 42’ Hi-Star Trawler, 2 cab/2 hd ’88 $199K with the overwhelming desire of both yachting visitors and local recreational sailors to 42’ J Boat J/130, 2 cab/1hd, Good Upgrades ’93 $199K 42’ Nova Marine Trawler, Sundeck trawler ’98 $249K have abundant safe places to anchor their boats. While the clock will never turn back 42’ Hunter, 2 cab/2 hd, New Listing ’03 $199K 42’ Hershine 42, Motor yacht 4 cab/4 head ’89 $99K 20 years to the days when we could anchor just about anywhere, we hope that the 41’ Morgan 416, Ketch, CC, 2 cab/2 hd ’83 $78K 36’ Heritage East 36 2 cab/2 hd, 2 avail from ’01 $187K powers that be will wisely use the principle of “asset allocation” for their marine 40’ Island Packet, 2 cab/2 hd, Well Maintained ’98 $219K 35’ Maxum SCR 3500, 2 cab/1 head ’01 $129K 40’ Beneteau CC, 2 cab/2 hd ’00 $149K 27’ Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab ’06 $99K resources, designating appropriate areas for environmental reserves, fishing, commercial shipping and recreational boating — including the right mix of dockage, moor- P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands ings and plenty of room for good old-fashioned anchoring. Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 email: [email protected] CC website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boats AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 E-mail [email protected] condition US$30,000 wheel steering,lotsmore.Good jibs, 2mains,spinnaker,TV,CD, Yanmar 2GM20,newAwlgrip,2 PEARSON 30'BUILT1973 Olliver orDalliTel(784)458-8888 US$60K/neg. Formoreinfocall dition andresonablypricedat Revolutionary boatingoodcon- built byLaGriffeMarine. engines. MarcEspagnondesign, 12m x6.6m6000kg,227cv CANOUAN STAR Selwyn Tel(473)435-4174 Grenada YachtClubContact extras forcruising.Berthedat Zetus manualwindlass,many Durban, S.A.Yanmarr2GM20, Beckmeyer, builtbyZ-Craftin Africa designbyOswald Bermuda sloop.PopularSo. 31' (9.35M)MURIA1992 590 207-524 [email protected] Tel(590) www.seaandsail.fr E-mail Guadeloupe, 150K$ revenue garanteed,lying charter possibilities,good regatta managementand tion, wellequipped,readyfor DUFOUR 34,2006 [email protected] (+596) 696-907429E-mail equipped. US$75,000Tel Well maintained,6berths,fully fortable andspaciousvessel. fiberglass hull,seaworthy,com- Martinique, recentlyrestored, 45' MOTORSAILER DETSRLCTO PG LOCATION ADVERTISER oprMrn S 42 26 USA St.Maarten 42 34 13 St.Lucia 35 7 Cooper Marine Martinique Antigua CIRExpress 31 Martinique 40 Caribbean Yachting 9 Trinidad Guadeloupe Caribbean StarAirlines 43 Caribbean PropellersLtd. Grenada Martinique 2 Carene Shop 33 Carenantilles Tortola SintMaarten Caraibe Yachts UnionIsland 4 31 Caraibe Greement 43 Canvas Shop Martinique 40 BVI YachtSales Carriacou Budget Marine Trinidad 7 Bougainvilla 39 Grenada 18 Bogles RoundHouse PetiteMartinique Bichik Services St.Vincent 39 Trinidad Bay IslandYachts 41 Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock Martinique Art Fabrik UK Aikane Trinidad Admiral YachtInsurance A&C YachtBrokers BOATS FORSALE perfect condi- Catamaran , lying , new [email protected] 9194-2436 (Brazil)E-mail Jon Wilkins(5516) E-mail [email protected], Choy Tel(246)429-8131/239-5955 Lucia. US$85,000Kristine storage RodneyBay,St. excellent condition,lyingin owner improvements,in new dinghy/OBandmany auto pilot,powerwinch, worthy, fullyequipped,GPS, 100hp diesel,newsails,sea- FISHER 37 [email protected] Tel (868)650-1914E-mail 52' IRWINKETCH or www.yachtworld.com [email protected] new paint.E-mail Engines recentlyoverhauled, enclosure andmuchmore. boom mainfurling,cockpit ter, Autohelm6000,Sto- ator, wind,solar,chartplot- price. NorthernLightsgener- comfort atafractionofthe excellent condition,cruisein ENDEAVOUR 38 mail [email protected] and readytocruise$35KE- ics, shoaldraft,inCaribbean new bilgepumps&electron- head, Harkenrollerfurling, thruhulls, bottomjob,new sails, newImronpaint, designed classic.Asof'05new BRISTOL 351974 Trinidad, Tel(868)739-6449 Simpson Cat40'175K, Craddock 40'110K,Roger POA, RogerSimpson42'86K, Ketch 40'100K,PowerCat72' Pearson 36'45K,Custom Van derStadt40'139K, US4285K, SanJuan34'50K, 44' 135Euro,GrandSoleil52' Hallberg 45'POA,Bavarian Hallberg Rassy15'US$350K, CMS YACHTBROKER # newly installed DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER in Trinidad sadDem rnd 40 48 Grenada SintMaarten 4 20 22 UK16/45 10 Island WaterWorld Bequia Grenada Island Dreams Grenada 28 38 Iolaire Enterprises Tortola 37 Horizon YachtManagement Grenadines Sails Grenada Trinidad 25 Grenada Marine Grenada 26 Food Fair 37 Flying FishVentures Jamaica Flamboyant OwlBar 5 12 USA Grenada Flamboyant BeachsideTerrace 1 21 First Mate Errol FlynnMarina Trinidad Tortola 20 Echo Marine-JotunSpecial Barbados Grenada Doyle's Guides 14 36 Doyle OffshoreSails Carriacou Doyle OffshoreSails Curaçao Down IslandRealEstate Dominica 11 Dopco Travel 19 Dominica MarineCenter Martinique Dockwise YachtTransportSarl Curaçao Marine Mustique Corea's FoodStoreMustique Alden , 456 4963after6pm. Sale byowner.Call(784) and Land.Seriousbuyersonly. Point, LowerBayBequia.House PROPERTY FORSALE [email protected] 409-0730/404-5795 E-mail easy expansion.Tel(473) land. Housedesignedfor house on4acresofcultivated room, 2bathJapanesestyle tourism project.With2bed- DAVID GRENADA -LaPASTORA,ST. www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay views overlookingSouthern and multiacretracts.Great CARRIACOU, ONEACRELOTS [email protected] rental available.E-mail fruit trees.US$320,000,Term land, fencedwithmature road -nostairs!12,558sqft of full kitchen,laundry,levelwith bedrooms, 1guestbedroom, yards frombeach.2master Lovely 1250sqft.cottage,100 FRIENDSHIP BAY,BEQUIA DIESEL 36HP YANMAROUTBOARD E-mail [email protected] meters. mono/multihulls. 16-17&22 has 3mastssuitablefor MASTS -TURBULENCEGRENADA [email protected] 404-4305/443-6434 E-mail details &picturesTel(473) Carriacou, US$30,000for ously forsaleasis,wherelying needing restorationsheisseri- space, grace&pace.Now Garcia in1984.Familyboatwith STEELEYE 43'STEELKETCH [email protected] Antigua. US$30,000E-mail sailing, readytogo,lying well equippedforbluewater 3" beam,Ariesselfsteering,very CARTER 331972 PROPERTY FORSALE MISC. FORSALE TEL (868)650-1914 Prime locationforEco- Tel (473)439-4495/415-8271 ADVERTISERS INDEX Perkins 30hp,12' CLASSIFIEDS at Bells , builtby # DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER [email protected] Tel (340)775-6144E-mail at reasonablerates. and OfficeSpaceavailable large lockers,ArtistsStudios also We sient rental. term, shorttermandtran- low slipsavailableforlong THOMAS COMPASS POINTMARINA,ST. full moon.VHF16 6pm Moonlightpartyevery Happy Houreverydayfrom5- personal laundryservice. propane tankfill-up, sale. Taxiserviceavailable, Eggs, bread,cheese,iceon NIMROD’S RUMSHOP,GRENADA Tel (473)420-1874 nails, etc.FordetailscallAndrea cleaning eyes&ears,cutting bathing, dematting,trimming, Grooming fordogs&puppies- cats tobirdsandhamsters. any typeofpetfromdogs& Grenada. 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MID ATLANTIC ATLANTIC MID [email protected] TEL +351 292 391616 TEL +351 Non-Technical Handbook Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 - 33927 FAX +351 292 391656 +351 FAX or e-mail: [email protected] Please Support Them. for Trans-Atlantic Yachts Trans-Atlantic for I have been in the Bunkered Fuel (+10,000lt) Bunkered EU-VAT (15%) Importation EU-VAT Practical information on the proper way to insure a yacht 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims Our Advertisers Support YACHT SERVICES YACHT PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL HORTA PT-9900-144 To Marine Insurance and how to navigate through the marine insurance system Yacht Owner’s Guide www.midatlanticyachtservices.com Electronics, Chandlery, Rigging . It is noticeable that the original “Mike” came from I think that saying things like “they creep around For God’s sake, all these kids are doing is hitchhik- Nigel Harrison is cruising the Caribbean aboard What is suddenly wrong with hitchhiking? It’s not a What is suddenly wrong with of course you take a risk, If you take someone along, that the more, er, generously built, may have trouble with, for example getting round the back of the engine or getting something out of the back of a quarter berth. They will certainly look a lot better in a bosun’s chair. I have never had anyone on my boat, who, given proper, clear direction, did not make themselves very useful. And they were all fun to have aboard. internetland. Is it wise to make arrangements with someone you have met only in cyberspace? Of course the vast majority of internet hitchers (that’s exactly what they are) are great, but trading typing over the ether does not compare with a face-to-face meeting. These days anyone can get to a computer and put out their virtual thumb, but it takes a big effort to get out to where the boats are and look around. We met a guy in the Canaries who was entirely broke, sleeping in a car park and looking for a lift home. We offered to get him to the Caribbean, but he decided to hold out for the States, his home. I would bet my boat he was a good guy. lazily” on the back of an article about the behaviour of one young person does a lot of harm. It is the responsibility of the writer to look well to each word, and think of the consequences for others of what we say. It is so easy to place obstacles in the way of people who deserve quite the reverse. “If you haven’t got anything good to say, don’t say anything at all”, as they say in Yorkshire, is not true. If we find something to be a problem, we should let others know, but in context, not as a “one statement covers all” message. ing — and what’s wrong with that? It’s a mode of travel that has been killed off on land by fear and selfish- ness and a “should’ve tried harder at school” attitude. Let’s not kill it off at sea. Boating seems complex and expensive to a young non-boater. We should all take the chance, whenever we can, to introduce folk to our wonderful, blessed lifestyle. Please, next time someone asks, give it your consideration. Have a pint and mull it over. Have a pint with them. None of this “one hour work, one hour sail” crap. Amuri Mina that’s all you need to know about that. Happy days. that’s all you need to know by, is their workload so Are yachties so hard done or time left to give a lit- hard, that they have no energy The guy asking how much tle to a complete stranger? anything, but shames Mike would pay does not justify yachties, one and all. It’s environmentally sign of laziness but of initiative. great people, make lifelong friendly, it’s fun, you meet in Angelika’s article friends. As the singlehanders love, or at least “lurve”. know, you might even find and they are taking a risk but it is infinitesimally small you will have with you too. The chances are that who is smart, keen, strong, someone, probably young, fit, and if not already experienced, then very quick to learn. Probability says they will be all this. They have shown the initiative by looking round the marina, by putting out their thumb. Being young, they are flexi- ble and slim. They will be able to do all kinds of jobs WHAT’S ON MY MIND ON WHAT’S Are yachties so hard done by Are yachties so hard done a little to a complete stranger? , and Angelika Gruener, I’m , and Angelika Gruener, Nigel Harrison In Defence of Defence In by , and it referred to people looking for , and it referred to people Compass

that they have no energy or time left to give that they have no energy Compass

Sweeping generalizations are fun and easy to write, Now I have never, to my knowledge, crept lazily These friends were all kinds and of all ages, from the Could it be that the fault is sometimes not with the I don’t debate for a second that “Mike”, specifically, I don’t debate for a second

Now then, Yacht Hitchhikers Yacht even easier to remember, and invariably wrong. They can be used to all kinds of effects, to discredit, to shame, to hurt, even when they are made accidentally. round a marina looking for a ride on a boat, but I have helped lots of folk out on their boats, sometimes for cash, sometimes for “mate’s rates”, sometimes for free. When I spent a year working nearly every day on my boat in Cornwall, I helped all the other boatowners in the yard on their projects and they helped me with mine. Besides this swapping of skills and labour I was helped by an army of friends who didn’t have a boat, and didn’t have any interest in going out on mine. This army was often supplemented by passers-by, for example a welder walking down the road who saw me battling with an upside-down weld and a weak M.I.G. welder and who jumped over the wall and popped the plate on. It took him an hour or so and he wouldn’t even stop for a cup of tea as his lunch break was over. Fancy that. student midwife who helped paint for three or four evenings, to the inventor of a certain windvane steering kit who made me some shims for my engine mounts. Now what can we make of that? I would like to propose a sweeping generalization of my own: “Nearly everyone is nice and very helpful and they don’t want anything in return.” passage-seekers, but with the boatowners? If no one is offering to help you that seems, given our experiences, a little strange. It is surely human nature to help someone you see struggling with a job. Is it true, this “one hour’s sailing for one hour’s work”? Surely not. We depend on human kindness in small ways every day. I hitchhiked from Los Angeles to Canada with two huge bags of climbing gear. I’ve hitched all over the world with those two damn bags. (And once through Ireland with an outboard motor.) No-one has ever said to me, “I’ll take you one hour towards Yosemite, if you change the oil”. They were more likely to offer me a room for the night and some food. In Ireland with the outboard, we were taken to a pub and fed, and another guy gave us a bottle of poteen. In Switzerland two girls paid for me to stay in a hotel for the night — and is a lazy little do-nothing. I would be angry too if he is a lazy little do-nothing. no work, ate everything, turned up, hung around, did boatyards ring with the and buggered off. (It’s not like down free grub, drinks, sound of yachties turning I do debate, I’m afraid, is etcetera, themselves.) What tagged onto the end of a statement like the one above, an article about one young person. Angelika led us across the chasm from “Mike” to “they” in one easy sentence. This is what we call in English a sweeping generalization, and is a disservice to the many boat hitchers I have come across. afraid I am going to have to pull you up. Remember afraid I am going to have to do… there is never any- this? “When there is work he can help you… these one coming along to ask if the marinas looking people always creep lazily around to go to sea.” It was in for boats that are all ready June’s a passage on a boat. AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 TBA 26 24 19 17 15 8 6 3 SEPTEMBER 31 28 25 25 WindwardCupRegatta,Carriacou. 24 18 -19 16 -22 16 15 13 -14 11 -12 10 9 7 6 -7 6 4 -5 3 1 -11 1 -6 1 1 AUGUST If youwouldlikea nauticalortourismeventlistedFREE inourcalendar, at thetimethisissueof and thename contactinformationoftheorganizing bodyto so pleasecontacteventorganizers directly forconfirmation. 24th AnnualInternationalBlueMarlinTournament, Havana,Cuba.CNIH FULL MOON Republic Day.PublicholidayinTrinidad& Tobago Independence Day.PublicholidayinSt.Kitts&Nevis National Heroesday,PublicholidayinSt.Kitts&Nevis plus UnderwaterCleanup,Bonaire(www.dive-friends-bonaire.com) CleanupDay.CoastalCleanupsinmanyislands, International Coastal Virgin oftheValleyFestival,Venezuela.Religiousboatparades Bonaire FlagDay.PublicholidayinBonaire;boatraces Labor Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI Dragonboat RegattaatKayakCentre,Chaguaramas Independence Day.PublicholidayinTrinidad. FULL MOON GreatRace(powerboats)TrinidadtoTobago Carib St. LouisFestival,Corossol,Barts.Fishingcontests,boatraces Festival ofSt.Barthelemy,Gustavia,Barts.Boatraces www.sanjuaninternational.com 54th SanJuanInternationalBillfishTournament,PuertoRico. Restoration Day.PublicholidayinDominicanRepublic Feast oftheAssumption.PublicholidayinFrenchWestIndies Grenada Carnival‘Spicemas’.Publicholidayin Fête duVentRegatta,Lorient,St.Barts Constitution Day.PublicholidayinAnguilla August Thursday,publicholidayinAnguilla Culturama inSt.Kitts Antigua Carnival.Publicholidayin Independence DayinJamaica Emancipation Day;KadoomentDayinBarbados; Public holidayinmanyislands:AugustBankHoliday; CSA CaribbeanDinghyChampionship,St.Croix,www.stcroixyc.com Carriacou Children’[email protected] BVI AugustFestival.www.bvitourism.com/BVIFestival/ www.carriacouregatta.com Carriacou RegattaFestival.Yachtandworkboatraces. Carriacou [email protected] Carriacou Children’sEducationFundPotluckBarbecue, St. Vincent&theGrenadines,andTrinidadTobago Emancipation Day.PublicholidayinBarbados, All informationwascorrecttothebest ofourknowledge please sendthename anddate(s)oftheevent •[email protected] CALENDAR Compass went topress—butplanschange,

See adonpage16. SANDI POMEROY SANDI credited to MarcieConnelly-Lynn. The lowerphotoonpage 23oftheJuly2007issue Errata For moreinformation [email protected] or(868)634-4938. TT$160 millioninprivate sectorinvestment.” employs morethan1,500workers,contributes TT$125milliontotheGDPwithover says JanePeake,Past-PresidentofYSATT. “The[yachtserviceindustryinTrinidad] “For anindustrythatisonly12yearsold, we canboastsomeincrediblemilestones,” Level ofTheLureSeafoodGrillandBar. and PolishingSystemsUsage,Caribbean Weather,tobeheldintheUpper including SailMail,TRACProducts,Stone Cold MarineRefrigerationUnits,Sanding One oftheshow’shighlightswillbeproduct demonstrationsandlecturesontopics on thedaywithanadditional$500,000in quotationsbeingrequested. Last year30companiesexhibitedwithnearly $250,000inbusinessbeingtransacted L.P Marine&IndustrialSupplies,andThe Mariner’s Office. Service, DominicaMarineCenter,WestCoast Fabricators,CalypsoMarineCanvas, Boaters’ Enterprise,DockyardElectric,GoodwoodMarine,MembersOnlyTaxi Marine Design/FretworksLtd.,RepublicBank,TrumpTours,Apadoca’sDutyFree, Ltd., BudgetMarineTrinidad,IMTOffshore(Dominica),TrintracLimited,Associated Boaters’ Shop,Peake’sChandlery,MarcOneMarineSupplies,AceSails&Canvas T&T MarineElectrical,Nau-T-KolRefrigeration,AllServices,DynamiteMarine, The followingcompanieshavealreadysignedup:3MMarineDivision,EchoMarine, strations. ItistheonlyshowofitstypeinsouthernCaribbean.Entrancefree. buyers throughacombinationofexhibits,one-on-onemeetingsandproductdemon- third voyageuptheislandsin1970his42-foottrawleryacht islands astheywererapidlydeveloped,Mitchellrevisedthebookaftermakinga Lesser Antillesanditspeople.Toaccountforthechangethattookplacein No otherbookpresentssuchacomprehensive,informative,andlivelyviewofthe frompage5 —Continued 5:00 In a1986autobiographicalarticlefor Trades ShowonOctober13thatSweetWaterMarina,Chaguaramas,from11:00 display attheYachtServicesAssociationofTrinidad&Tobago(YSATT)5thMarine The rangeofmarineservicesandsuppliesofferedinChaguaramas,Trinidad,willbe on Trinidad’s MarineTradesShowforOctober it allintoonespot,asaresource,foranyonetouse.” to takemyknowledgefrom30yearsinthemarinebusinesswithboatgearandput gories suchasabove-deck,electronics,safetyandnavigation,Mikesays,“Iwanted MyBoatsGear.com issetupasa“how-toguide”withgearorganizedinto20cate- resource forboatowners.CreatedbyformerboatbuilderandbrokerMikeHobson, The newly-launchedsiteMyBoatsGear.comaimstobeaone-stopboating-gear Cruisers’ Site-ings 27656. CommentsmustbesentbyAugust24. mariners viathewebsitehttp://dms.dot.gov.UseDocketIDnumberUSCG-2007- equipment tocontinuetheirbroadcastsasoneofitscoremissionssafeguard ion onthevalueofforecastsandneedforCoastGuardtoinvestinnew casts areusedandwhatalternativeservicesbeingused.Pleasesendyouropin- The CoastGuardneedsinformationontheextenttowhichtheseweatherbroad- available. (Soundssimilartogrumblesheardinmanyacockpit!) manufactured. Repairsaredifficulttoaccomplishandsparepartsgenerallynot says thebroadcastingequipmenthasexceededitslifeexpectancyandisnolonger Guard highseascommunicationstationssuchasNMNandNMG.TheCoast vides marineradiobroadcastsofweatherforecastsandwarningsviaUSCoast Teri Rothbauerreports:Dothisnow!TheUSNationalWeatherServicecurrentlypro- Save theWeatherBroadcasts! our previousReaders’Surveys.Keepupthegoodwork! and Martinique.Bothlocationswerealsovoted“MostCourteousEfficient”in congratulations and on dutyinMartinique.Thankstoreaderswhoparticipatedthesurvey,andmany Caribbean. ComingaveryclosesecondweretheCustomsandImmigrationofficers and ImmigrationofficersondutyinBequiaas“MostCourteousEfficient”the In ourmostrecentReaders’Survey, Customs andImmigrationKudos remembered atachurchserviceinSt.LuciaonJuly19th. petitor attheBequiaEasterRegattaandotherregionalsailingevents.Lesterwas shore events,winningmanyofthemthroughtheyears.Hewasalsoafrequentcom- ing toSt.Lucia,hesailedhisyacht He wasinhismid-70s.BornGrenada,Lesteranactiveracingsailor.Aftermov- Well-known WindwardIslandsyachtsmanLesterRapierdiedinSt.Lucialastmonth. LESTER RAPIER mother hassaidIanswered,‘Iwanttosailandwriteaboutit’.” “Somewhere aroundten,whenaskedwhatIwantedtodogrewup,my a 2007Readers’SurveyAwardcertificate Bequia, asCompassPublishingLtd’sManagingDirectorTomHopmanpresents Patrick Hutchins,representingallSVGCustomsandImmigrationpersonnelat Compass PM . Thisshowbringstogethermanufacturers,distributors,suppliers,contractorsand editor SallyErdle(atleft)congratulatesCustomsofficersJomoAlexisand felicitations to theCustomsandImmigrationofficersinBequia Aegis Caribbean Compass Yachting regularly intheSt.LuciaYachtClub’soff- magazine, CarletonMitchellwrote: Compass readers namedCustoms Sans Terre should havebeen .” AM

to WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED AUGUST 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47

WILFRED DEDERER ssociation A www.caribbeanmarineassociation.com [email protected] Boulevard Allègre, 97290 Le Marin Martinique, FWI Tel: 596 (0)596 74 83 83, Fax: 596 (0)596 74 92 20 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.portmarin.com Western Main Road, Chaguaramas, Trinidad Tel: (868) 634-4303, Fax: (868) 634-4327 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.powerboats.co.tt Independent Consultant Specialist in Yachting & Disaster Preparedness for the Caribbean Region 20 Collens Road, Fairways, Maraval, Trinidad & Tobago Tel: (868) 724-6997 E-mail: [email protected] Port du Marin Power Boats Mutual Facilities Ltd. Honorary Members * Have been invited by the board of directors to be a member of the association, due Erik Blommestein Current Board of Directors Keats Compton - President (MIASL representative) Sam Welch - Vice President (MABVI representative) Donald Stollmeyer - Secretary/ Treasurer (YSATT representative) George Clarke - Director (ABMA representative) Justin Evans - Director (MAYAG) representative to the contributions they have given to the industry. arine M

between all members and other related organisations. between all members and environment and the quality of the Caribbean waters, the Caribbean preserve, protect and enhance the nautical tourism experience. which influence the yachting industry. NGOs on policies and challenges The Caribbean Marine Association (CMA) is a regional association geared towards the development of the geared towards (CMA) is a regional association Marine Association The Caribbean communications to improve international ideas and information, and and share experience, • To compile and standards that are designed to the yachting industry to adopt best practices • To encourage all within tourism organisations and other advice and assist all Caribbean governments, regional • To offer non-political yachting industry within the Caribbean Basin. Its aims are: within the Caribbean yachting industry

aribbean

Nelson’s Dockyard, English Harbour, Antigua Tel/Fax: (268) 460-1122 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.abma.ag PO Box 679, St. George’s, Grenada Tel: (473) 443-1667, Fax: (473) 443-1668 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.grenadamarine.com/mayag/ PO Box 3042, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands Tel: (284) 494-2751, Fax: (284) 494-5166 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.marinebvi.com CrewsInn Hotel & Yachting Centre, Chaguaramas, Trinidad Tel: (868) 634-4938, Fax: (868) 634-2160 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.ysatt.org PO Box GM 614 Castries, St.Lucia Tel: (758) 452-2300; 484-3646, (M); (758) 453-0219 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.miasl.org PO Box 2434, Kingstown, St. Vincent & the Grenadines Tel: (784) 456-9608, Fax: (784) 456-9917 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.svgrma.com Airport Road #46, Simpsonbay, St. Maarten, Netherland Antilles Tel: (599) 545-2500, Fax: (599) 545-2501 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.smmta.com Kennan Holdings, LLC PO Box 7277, St. Thomas, USVI 00801 Tel: (443) 321-3797, Fax: (340) 715-2827 Website: www.allatsea.net Compass Publishing Ltd PO Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.caribbeancompass.com Lot 5 Western Main Road, Chaguaramas, Trinidad Tel: (868) 634-4420/4427, Fax: (868) 634-4387 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.peakeyachts.com

The

Full Members Trades Association of a Caribbean Country * A Full Member is a Marine ASSOCIATION (ABMA) ANTIGUA & BARBUDA MARINE (MAYAG) MARINE & YACHTING ASSOCIATION OF GRENADA (MABVI) MARINE ASSOCIATION OF THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS TOBAGO (YSATT) YACHT SERVICES ASSOCIATION OF TRINIDAD & (MIASL) INC. MARINE INDUSTRIES ASSOCIATION OF ST. LUCIA MARINE ASSN. ST. VINCENT & THE GRENADINES RECREATIONAL ST. MAARTEN MARINE TRADES ASSOCIATION (SMMTA) Associate Members * An Associate Member is an individual marine related business within the Caribbean All At Sea Caribbean Compass Peake Yacht Services Current CMA Members Current Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited