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SNOW COSTS/2 SPEEDO’S FASHION PLUNGE/10 Global Edition WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • February 14, 2006 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/ Textiles The New Jersey NEW YORK — For fall, Donna Karan abandoned the yin and yang she’s so fond of exploring in favor of an elegant minimal look, which featured great-looking streamlined clothes. She had two main focuses: coats that were cut to curve and jersey dresses. Here, her evening dress in a day weight of felted jersey, detailed with net. For more on the shows, see pages 4 to 6. Penney’s Private Side: Faster, Trendier ‘a.n.a’ Seen as New Megabrand By David Moin PLANO, Tex. — J.C. Penney is heating up the private label game by taking a new approach. With unprecedented speed, and rather stealthily, the retailer last month launched the casual collection a.n.a in its more than 1,000 department stores in misses’, petites and women’s sizes. The moderately priced collection’s official coming out will take place at the Academy Awards on March 5, when Penney’s will run its first a.n.a ads, to be followed by an eight-page mailer about a week later. Penney’s executives are confident the See J.C. Penney, Page 26 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006 WWD.COM Retail Takes Snow in Stride By Sharon Edelson WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles NEW YORK — Retailers in the Northeast were still digging out Monday as they assessed the sales lost from store closures forced by the record snowfall. FASHION Federated Department Stores closed 102 of its Designers are giving evening a fresh twist by using daytime patterns units on Sunday, including 52 Macy’s stores, nine 4 such as herringbone and tartan plaid, and fabrics such as cotton fl annel. Bloomingdale’s and 41 Lord & Taylor stores — all of the L&T units in the region. According to a Federated spokesman, Macy’s East has 189 stores GENERAL J.C. Penney is heating up the private label game with speed and stealth, in the region and Bloomingdale’s, 36. “It’s certainly signifi cant when you close that 1 launching the casual line a.n.a chain wide and in all sizes last month. many stores in one day,” the spokesman said. Speedo is rapidly building its business outside the pool and is launching “What the impact is has yet to be seen. 10 its fi rst winter apparel performance suits at the Winter Olympics. Bloomingdale’s said its 59th Street fl agship and stores in White Flint, Md., and McLean, Va., opened The EU said it plans to reimpose punitive tariffs on a range of U.S. at their normal times on Sunday. The SoHo and 59th 29 products if Congress fails to withdraw tax breaks found illegal by the WTO. Street stores closed two hours early, at 5 p.m., while units in Willow Grove, Pa., and King of Prussia, Pa., MARKETS had delayed openings. Meanwhile, Bloomingdale’s RTW: Missoni’s zigzags and wavy patterns have again become artistic stores in White Plains, Garden City and Huntington, 9 works to be displayed in a museum, this time in Gorizia, Italy. N.Y.; Wayne, Short Hills and Bridgewater, N.J., and Chestnut Hill, Mass., never opened on Sunday. SOURCING: Despite political threats and fresh quotas, China is poised to “We’re back in business today,” said Michael 12 strengthen its lead as the top U.S. supplier of textiles and apparel. Gould, chairman and chief executive offi cer of TEXTILES: European mills are successfully navigating stormy trade Bloomingdale’s. “The snow was a little bump MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY 23 winds as they prepare for the Texworld and Première Vision shows. in the road. We have a long year ahead of us. Obviously it affected business. We had some good The storm’s timing couldn’t have been good for Obituary.............................................................................................31 traffi c in the 59th Street store.” jewelers, who were in the throes of Valentine’s For the fi rst time in many years, the Mall at Day sales. Zale’s Manhattan stores at 142 West 34th Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................30-31 Short Hills in New Jersey remained closed on a Street, 417 Fifth Avenue, 1187 Third Avenue and 415 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Sunday that wasn’t a holiday. Lexington Avenue were closed on Sunday. Tiffany [email protected], using the individual’s name. “We got 21 inches of snow at the mall,” said Mike & Co. didn’t close its doors Sunday, a spokeswoman McAvenue, general manager. “The storm lasted said. She declined to comment on sales, saying the WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. until 1 p.m. For safety reasons I had to stay closed. company releases its results quarterly. VOLUME 191, NO. 34. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- We are very well prepared today and the mall is Marcia Wilson, Daffy’s chairman and ceo, ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- packed. Right now it looks like the parking lot is 90 said the company kept its stores in New Jersey, ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, percent full. On a weekday it’s typically 70 percent. Philadelphia and Long Island closed on Sunday. Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers A lot of people may have taken the day off.” In Manhattan, the SoHo store was closed and the Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and With Valentine’s Day on Tuesday, McAvenue Wall Street unit opened with curtailed hours. C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; was predicting strong sales. “Saturday was very “It’s probably no more or less meaningful than David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance strong,” he said. “Hopefully there’s a lot of pent-up all the warm weather we had that brought out Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. demand.” The lost business on Sunday represents more shoppers in January,” Wilson said of the Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. a 10 percent loss for the week, he said. “Given the storm. “At the end of the day it’s usually a wash in 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable strength of Saturday, when we saw 15 to 20 percent terms of weather. It would have had more impact Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS more traffi c, and today, which is 4 to 5 percent up were it closer to Christmas. I see it as a blip.” CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, over last year, it will probably net out to a 4 percent Saks Fifth Avenue’s New York fl agship was ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR loss,” he said. “It’s not as bad as one might think.” open and there were shoppers, a spokeswoman DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four New York City store owners whose staffers said. “A lot of people took advantage of the day to weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other were able to report to work opened on Sunday get personalized service,” she added. “Despite val- U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. and tried to take advantage of any intrepid shop- iant attempts, all [other] stores in the metro-New First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, pers braving the streets. York area were closed. Boston was open for an and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions “We were one of the only stores that were open hour, then closed.” Other shuttered locations were and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To on Bleecker Street,” said Stacey Pecor, owner of Stamford and Greenwich, Conn.; Short Hills, N.J.; subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make Olive & Bette’s. “On Columbus Avenue, Banana White Plains, South Hampton and Huntington our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Republic, Betsey Johnson and Intermix were Station, N.Y.