SNOW COSTS/2 SPEEDO’S FASHION PLUNGE/10 Global Edition WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • February 14, 2006 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/ Textiles The New Jersey NEW YORK — For fall, Donna Karan abandoned the yin and yang she’s so fond of exploring in favor of an elegant minimal look, which featured great-looking streamlined clothes. She had two main focuses: coats that were cut to curve and jersey dresses. Here, her evening dress in a day weight of felted jersey, detailed with net. For more on the shows, see pages 4 to 6.

Penney’s Private Side: Faster, Trendier ‘a.n.a’ Seen as New Megabrand

By David Moin PLANO, Tex. — J.C. Penney is heating up the private label game by taking a new approach. With unprecedented speed, and rather stealthily, the retailer last month launched the casual collection a.n.a in its more than 1,000 department stores in misses’, petites and women’s sizes. The moderately priced collection’s official coming out will take place at the Academy Awards on March 5, when Penney’s will run its first a.n.a ads, to be followed by an eight-page mailer about a week later. Penney’s executives are confident the See J.C. Penney, Page 26 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006 WWD.COM Retail Takes Snow in Stride By Sharon Edelson WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles NEW YORK — Retailers in the Northeast were still digging out Monday as they assessed the sales lost from store closures forced by the record snowfall. FASHION Federated Department Stores closed 102 of its Designers are giving evening a fresh twist by using daytime patterns units on Sunday, including 52 Macy’s stores, nine 4 such as herringbone and tartan plaid, and fabrics such as cotton fl annel. Bloomingdale’s and 41 Lord & Taylor stores — all of the L&T units in the region. According to a Federated spokesman, Macy’s East has 189 stores GENERAL J.C. Penney is heating up the private label game with speed and stealth, in the region and Bloomingdale’s, 36. “It’s certainly signifi cant when you close that 1 launching the casual line a.n.a chain wide and in all sizes last month. many stores in one day,” the spokesman said. Speedo is rapidly building its business outside the pool and is launching “What the impact is has yet to be seen. 10 its fi rst winter apparel performance suits at the Winter Olympics. Bloomingdale’s said its 59th Street fl agship and stores in White Flint, Md., and McLean, Va., opened The EU said it plans to reimpose punitive tariffs on a range of U.S. at their normal times on Sunday. The SoHo and 59th 29 products if Congress fails to withdraw tax breaks found illegal by the WTO. Street stores closed two hours early, at 5 p.m., while units in Willow Grove, Pa., and King of Prussia, Pa., MARKETS had delayed openings. Meanwhile, Bloomingdale’s RTW: Missoni’s zigzags and wavy patterns have again become artistic stores in White Plains, Garden City and Huntington, 9 works to be displayed in a museum, this time in Gorizia, Italy. N.Y.; Wayne, Short Hills and Bridgewater, N.J., and Chestnut Hill, Mass., never opened on Sunday. SOURCING: Despite political threats and fresh quotas, China is poised to “We’re back in business today,” said Michael 12 strengthen its lead as the top U.S. supplier of textiles and apparel. Gould, chairman and chief executive offi cer of TEXTILES: European mills are successfully navigating stormy trade Bloomingdale’s. “The snow was a little bump MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY 23 winds as they prepare for the Texworld and Première Vision shows. in the road. We have a long year ahead of us. Obviously it affected business. We had some good The storm’s timing couldn’t have been good for Obituary...... 31 traffi c in the 59th Street store.” jewelers, who were in the throes of Valentine’s For the fi rst time in many years, the Mall at Day sales. Zale’s Manhattan stores at 142 West 34th Classifi ed Advertisements...... 30-31 Short Hills in New Jersey remained closed on a Street, 417 Fifth Avenue, 1187 Third Avenue and 415 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Sunday that wasn’t a holiday. Lexington Avenue were closed on Sunday. Tiffany [email protected], using the individual’s name. “We got 21 inches of snow at the mall,” said Mike & Co. didn’t close its doors Sunday, a spokeswoman McAvenue, general manager. “The storm lasted said. She declined to comment on sales, saying the WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. until 1 p.m. For safety reasons I had to stay closed. company releases its results quarterly. VOLUME 191, NO. 34. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- We are very well prepared today and the mall is Marcia Wilson, Daffy’s chairman and ceo, ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- packed. Right now it looks like the parking lot is 90 said the company kept its stores in New Jersey, ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, percent full. On a weekday it’s typically 70 percent. Philadelphia and Long Island closed on Sunday. Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers A lot of people may have taken the day off.” In Manhattan, the SoHo store was closed and the Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and With Valentine’s Day on Tuesday, McAvenue Wall Street unit opened with curtailed hours. C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; was predicting strong sales. “Saturday was very “It’s probably no more or less meaningful than David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance strong,” he said. “Hopefully there’s a lot of pent-up all the warm weather we had that brought out Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. demand.” The lost business on Sunday represents more shoppers in January,” Wilson said of the Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. a 10 percent loss for the week, he said. “Given the storm. “At the end of the day it’s usually a wash in 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable strength of Saturday, when we saw 15 to 20 percent terms of weather. It would have had more impact Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS more traffi c, and today, which is 4 to 5 percent up were it closer to Christmas. I see it as a blip.” CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, over last year, it will probably net out to a 4 percent Saks Fifth Avenue’s New York fl agship was ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR loss,” he said. “It’s not as bad as one might think.” open and there were shoppers, a spokeswoman DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four New York City store owners whose staffers said. “A lot of people took advantage of the day to weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other were able to report to work opened on Sunday get personalized service,” she added. “Despite val- U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. and tried to take advantage of any intrepid shop- iant attempts, all [other] stores in the metro-New First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, pers braving the streets. York area were closed. Boston was open for an and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions “We were one of the only stores that were open hour, then closed.” Other shuttered locations were and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To on Bleecker Street,” said Stacey Pecor, owner of Stamford and Greenwich, Conn.; Short Hills, N.J.; subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make Olive & Bette’s. “On Columbus Avenue, Banana White Plains, South Hampton and Huntington our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Republic, Betsey Johnson and Intermix were Station, N.Y. interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise closed. We went down to a skeleton staff.” While many businesses appeared to be closed us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- Pecor said business was down 50 percent over on Madison Avenue, Barneys New York was SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- last year at three of Olive & Bette’s New York loca- operating. However, the Manhasset, N.Y., and ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, tions, while the Madison Avenue store saw a gain Chestnut Hill, Mass., stores did not open. Neither OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED over last year. did the Chelsea location on 18th Street, but “it Pecor estimated her business will take a 1 to 2 would have been closed anyway because we’re in percent hit for the month as a result of the snow- the process of setting up for warehouse sales,” a storm. Commenting on the absurdity of the weekend, spokeswoman said. she said, “Saturday we were selling sundresses and Stefani Greenfi eld, the owner of Scoop, was Sunday we were selling Ugg boots and rain boots.” pragmatic. All five Manhattan stores opened In Brief Sunday, but units in Greenwich, Conn., Greenvale, and East ● LESPORTSAC DEAL DONE: Accessory Network Group’s af- Hampton, N.Y., were dark. “It fi liate company, Brand Science, closed Friday on the acquisi- doesn’t help,” she said. “Sunday tion of LeSportsac Inc., in alliance with Japanese conglomerate is a huge day for business, es- Itochu Corp. The deal was announced in November. The com- pecially in the Meatpacking pany did not disclose the sale price, but industry sources said District. But you can’t control it was more than $100 million. While Itochu will distribute the the weather. Hopefully, people brand throughout Asia and the Pacifi c, Brand Science will over- will have a little cabin fever and see global operations of the company, including branding, ad- want to go shopping. I think we’ll vertising, production, sales, product development and design. catch up. If you’re going to be in retail you can’t kill yourself over ● NEW AT SECTOR: Dennis Phillips has been appointed vice the weather.” president of sales at watch fi rm Sector Group USA, a new posi- — With contributions from tion for the Italian fi rm. Phillips will report to Sebastiano Di Kristi Ellis, Washington Bari, managing director of Sector Group USA. Phillips was most recently president of Fendi watches in the U.S. and has held executive positions at Ebel and Swatch Group in the U.S. The 33-year-old fi rm produces its own signature brand and the Phillip Watch and Xenia watch lines, and holds the licenses for Roberto Cavalli, TimeWear, Sisely, Pzero Tempo (Pirelli) Moschino, Valentino and Benetton. WWD. COM News In Real Time Get instant access to everything you need to know about the fash- ion and retailing business. WWD.com is the gateway to the WWD Archive, more than 80,000 stories dating back to 1994. For more information, visit wwd.com.

4 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006

Marc Jacobs Ralph Lauren

DayDay forfor NightNight NEW YORK — Designers are giving evening a fresh twist by using daytime patterns — such as Francisco Costa’s herringbone for a Calvin Klein dress — and fabrics, like the plaid fl annel Marc Jacobs chose for a strap- less number, for looks to wear when the sun goes down. WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006 5 WWD.COM

Zac Posen Calvin Klein Doo.Ri

Derek Lam PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO AND GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY 6 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006 WWD.COM Talk of the Town Whether high on pomp or low on frills, the Gotham runways were home to all kinds of chic.

Boudicca designers It takes a Brian Kirkby and close look Zowie Broach indeed to carried on with appreciate their dark Gothic all the edge — chicly wonderful so, with an details in ubertailored, Nelson androgynous and Sisi silhouette that Li’s Iisli suggested Helmut collection. Newton-meets- “Dark City.”

While her strength lies in shoemaking, Willow’s Kit Willow Hollywould’s Holly Dunlap showed complicated matters Rodebjer’s Carin Rodebjer society-worthy frocks perfect for the with deconstructed combined traditional socials who modeled them. bubble frocks and body- shirting fabric with silk conscious tulle dresses charmeuse and lace with exposed seams. for her Old Testament- inspired collection.

Emerging talent Nuj Stacey Bendet’s fall collection for Novakhett showed a alice + olivia lacked her signature While Zang Toi sent out a rather Patrik Rzepski delivered Peter Hidalgo’s Hidalgo thoughtfully designed polish, but there were still some rococo array of looks, he did offer a watered-down lineup line of elegantly slim grouping of dresses, terrifi c pieces, such as the toggle some wearable separates such as of basics — graphic Ts, suits and dresses made cropped jackets and hoodie knit-trim jacket with a long hip-hugging cashmere trousers and jersey jumpers and one- use of traditional tailoring coats in rich fabrics like angora sweater. city-sleek blazers. shoulder dresses. techniques. cashmere and paper silks. Outerwear was Afshin Feiz’s Sugar and strong suit this season, spice, that’s as the designer showed what Jason Projected Winner several clever creations Wu’s girls including Sixties-inspired are made of. “Whether you love to hate me or hate to love me, bubble jackets and a great I’m not just good TV, I’m a great designer,” declared cloak-style cape jacket. Santino Rice, one of the four “Project Runway” fi nalists. And, yes, for all the reality show goings-on — television crews elbowing out front-row guests — the focus was on the sartorial goods. Unlike last season, where the designers displayed an out-there creative fl air, these fi nalists played it safe. Would-be enfant terrible Rice, for example, showed a relatively tame collection of feminine cocktail frocks and column gowns. Daniel Vosovic sent out a lineup of ladylike elegance with a touch of American sportif — a fur-lined vest and an easy knit wrap blouse — while Chloe Dao, for all the chic successes she had on the show, disappointed. Her stiff, voluminous puff piece set the tone for the all-too-dated look of Eighties power dressing. It was ultimately Kara Janx who sent out a near-perfect collection, with designer vision and, well, terrifi c clothes: fl uid color-block dresses, gathered and tiered baby dolls, as well as simpler dress-down Brocades, leather, Kathy and Lindy Jones’ fare, like stretch graphic Ts and plaid blazers. and Elizabethan-style collection for Palmer Jones So who’ll win the prize? “Talent wins,” said ruffs allowed for a fell short on styling, but Michael Kors after the show, and, judging from more youthful mood at featured some beautiful these presentations, Janx has that in spades.

Pamella Roland. jackets. TURNER AND DAVID MITRA GIANNONI, ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI CENTENO, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY WWD & PORTS 1961

TM . 8 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006 WWD.COM Agent Provocateur Celebrates With Store Opening, Film Fashion Scoops SAN FRANCISCO — Valentine’s Day was the target for saucy lin- CURATOR KATE: The Wonderful Life has gerie brand Agent Provocateur with the opening of a store here Joe Corre always played prominently in Kate Spade’s last week, as well as the launch of a fi lm online by an Oscar-nomi- and staff. world, so it’s no surprise she’s become the nated director and a series of erotic literature in booklets. most enthusiastic champion of the lensman With a black and chrome facade, the 1,000-square-foot store at who captured that best, Slim Aarons. The 54 Geary Street off Union Square is fi lled with the London-based East Coast designer comes to Los Angeles company’s signature boudoir trappings: black and pearl pink Thursday to host an exhibit of 30 Aarons Perspex with laser-cut erotic images, fuchsia Chinese lanterns photographs she hand-selected. All will be and mirrored furnishings. on sale. Signed limited-edition prints also “We knew San Francisco would be a great market because will be auctioned off for the Make a Wish we’ve always had regulars from this city visit our boutiques in Foundation. “Slim Aarons’ photographs London and Los Angeles,” said co-founder Joe Corre amid the uniquely celebrate a woman’s personal sense throng of lingerie-clad models at opening night last Thursday. of style and joie de vivre,” Spade said. She His wife and co-owner Serena Rees was unable to attend the and the photographer fi rst met for a launch event, which drew a packed house, but Corre was in good com- party of his book, “Slim Aarons — A Place pany with old friend and British expat Nick Graham and local in the Sun,” at her New York boutique in Trevor social fi gures. December. “There is such an amazing spirit Traina and As models seductively danced their way down a grand stair- and optimistic glamour depicted in his Eva Idrian case, guests such as Sloan Barnett, Kimberly Bini, Vanessa work,” said Spade. “The photographs have with model. Getty, Kendall Robinson and Stephan Jenkins sipped on vodka always inspired me. Who wouldn’t want to Valentinas. Later, Corre and his new pals supped on duck salad live in that world?” and sushi at the new 415 restaurant nearby. The party favors: Margo Graham, Agent Provocateur fragrance and red lace logo knickers. Jess Morros and SPRING FLING: After the Kate Spade event, This is the company’s fourth store in the U.S., and 17th Nick Graham. Thursday is shaping up to be a busy one in Leila Yavari worldwide including in-store shops in two Selfridges in Los Angeles. Contemporary retailer Express and Eli the U.K. has rallied an endless list of young hosts Bingham The company expanded its publishing activities this — including Eve, Elizabeth Banks, Vanessa month (it has long produced the magazine Knickers Traina, Jordana Brewster, Kidada Jones, Oliver Forever) with two booklets featuring original short sto- Hudson and Rachel Bilson — for a night ries by authors such as Angela Jackson, Bret Goldstein of fashion and music in the name of the and Molly May. “Secrets” and “Confessions” sell for $18 Center for Innovative Education, a nonprofi t at Agent Provocateur stores, select U.K. bookstores and organization that brings unconventional online. programming to low-performing public The company’s Web site is also offering “Tied Up at schools. The late-night party at Smashbox the Offi ce,” an eight-minute, black-and-white fi lm by Mike Studios will showcase the Express spring Figgis for Agent Provocateur. collection, as well a concert by Pharrell’s A friend of Corre and Rees, Figgis was nominated in new recording artist, Robin Thicke. And at both the best director and best screenplay categories for the turntables: DJs Tendaji Lathan, Samantha the 1995 hit “Leaving Las Vegas.” Among other cultural Ronson and Jus Ske. There also will be a footnotes, he also taught Bryan Ferry to play piano when “Legs Gallery,” an exhibit by Resurrection’s they were in the R&B band GasBoard together. Mark Haddawy and Katy Rodriguez featuring The short runs online through Feb. 20. iconic fi lm and fashion images paying — Diane Dorrans Saeks and homage to sexy legs.

Rose Apodaca, Los Angeles DREW ALTIZER PHOTOS BY PH. CHRISTOPHE RIHET W.ELYI E.224224 586 3222 / TEL. 212 462 2045 WWW.REPLAY.IT

at 345 Lafayette Street WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006 9 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report Missoni Gets Another Museum Treatment Uniforms Are Essential MILAN — Missoni’s zigzags and wavy patterns large spaces, is a perfect backdrop for the dimen- again have become artistic works to be displayed sions, colors and designs of the wall rugs, which in a museum. are being shown together for the fi rst time. “There This time, Ottavio Missoni’s tapestry, made is even an existing wooden fl oor with geometrical In Zittel’s ‘Critical Space’ with swatches of the brand’s iconic multicolored patterns, similar to our own patchworks,” he said. patterns, is on display at the main museum in the Ottavio Missoni, in his usual laid-back and city of Gorizia, in northeastern Italy. The exhibi- easygoing manner, said he started creating tapes- NEW YORK — Some visi- tion, titled “Kaleidoscope Missoni,” bowed Feb. try as a need to decorate the huge spaces at the tors to the New Museum of 11, which was also Missoni’s 85th birthday, and exhibition site Rotonda of the Besana in Milan Contemporary Art/Chelsea will run until June 4. in 1978 for a fashion show. When might mistake the artist Andrea In addition to Missoni’s experi- designing the wall rugs, his father Zittel’s uniforms for a still life ments with fabrics and materials and sometimes worked on commission or fashion presentation. his entire personal collection — 40 had items reproduced for the home But like much of what pieces of patchwork wall rugs and fabrics collection. she does, Zittel’s handmade tapestries — there are more than 100 Although Missoni downplays any dresses are more complicated pieces from the brand’s ready-to-wear artistic inclinations and shies away than that. For starters, she collections. The exhibition is orga- from the attention of museums and was known to wear an indi- nized by decorative motifs — multicol- art foundations, he believes a hands- vidual piece for weeks or even ored stripes, zigzags, fl ames, graphics on approach is preferable, be it di- months, a habit that hammered and geometrics. Although the installa- rectly or through his son, Luca, who home her practice of using ev- tion is traditional, with rugs hanging coordinates exhibitions around the eryday necessities as the impe- on the walls and mannequins, there world and manages the company’s tus for her artwork. are also two “fl ying,” suspended car- archive and history. In the last 15 years, Zittel pets. The Gorizia exhibit follows other “You must thoroughly know the has created a following for prestigious shows, including those ins and outs of the company and how her art, which questions how at New York’s Whitney Museum of it works,” he said. individuals function in our ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY American Art in 1978, the Guggenheim For his part, Luca Missoni fi rmly Andrea Zittel with one of her A Missoni installation on brand-heavy society. In the uniforms. Museum in 1994 and London’s Victoria steered clear of nostalgia. “We were early Nineties, well before & Albert Museum in 2003. display in Gorizia, Italy. aiming at a contemporary mood, a Brooklyn’s Williamsburg neighborhood became a haven for art- “It’s a multisensorial walk through feeling of going back to our beginnings ists, she was there, pipelining her needs and fantasies about the Missoni world, where visitors may see, touch and and starting all over again,” said Luca, Ottavio’s clothing, shelter and furniture into art, even using her home as feel images, drawings and fabrics,” said Raffaella youngest son who is also creative director of the an exhibition space. Sgubin, superintendent of the museum. The Gorizia brand’s men’s wear and Missoni Sport collections. Zittel came up with the idea of wearing a uniform in 1990, museum is located in the striking 18th-century pala- Ottavio Missoni, born in Dalmatia, across when, as a new graduate student living in fashion-minded zzo Attems-Petzenstein, a work of architect Nicolò the Italian border, has increasingly become an Manhattan, she was overwhelmed by having to spiff up her Pacassi, who also designed the Royal Palace in icon for the neighboring Friuli Venezia Giulia appearance after hours of toiling in her studio for her part- Schönbrunn, Austria. “The palazzo is sort of a royal region, which he represented at the 2005 World time job in an art gallery. That same year, she set up A-Z palace on a smaller scale that perfectly enhances Exposition in Aichi, Japan, with a three-di- Administrative Services, a company name that borrows from Missoni’s works,” said Sgubin. mensional wall rug art piece that also is being her initials, pokes fun at corporate identities and hints at her Luca Missoni, the exhibition’s curator, said the shown in Gorizia. encyclopedic ambitions. style of the imposing and majestic palazzo, with its — Luisa Zargani “I had no money. I knew I was going to be in the studio every day and to have to look decent in the gallery was such a leap,” she said, standing beside a form displaying the sleeveless black linen tea-length dress she designed as her fi rst uniform. Beyond easing any fashion anxieties, the uniform provided a creative medium with an antibranding message. “The whole vehicle of consumer capitalism becomes so op- pressive and instills such fear in people, but they don’t always have to buy into that,” she said. “We’re all in this cycle of always doing something or consuming. But whenever you just stop, you can be in the moment.” Opening the fold of what essentially is a wrap dress held up by a pair of leather suspenders, Zittel said, “It’s really a blan- ket,” recalling how she had to scour the West Village’s leather shops to fi nd the suspenders. More than 75 objects are being exhibited as part of “Andrea Zittel: Critical Space,” which is on display at 556 West 22nd Street today through May 27. The uniform area of the gallery also houses Personal Panels, Zittel’s apron dresses that were inspired by Russian constructionists whose design relied on geometric shapes. Once that chapter of her uniform dressing wrapped up around 1997, she started crocheting dresses includ- ing a hooded, Missoni-type look that took six weeks to make. She later decided to complicate the procedure by crocheting with her fi ngers instead of with a hook and needle. “I like the idea of making a covering for your body by using your body,” she said. By the millennium, Zittel had taught herself how to make felt from raw wool and started making felt dresses, a feat that involved using a dress pattern made from an old shower cur- tain. While she has taken breaks from wearing uniforms, she said she always winds up going back to them. She has a tendency to turn around what most people would consider to be limiting. In 2000, for example, she lived in a base- ment studio in Berlin without a clock for a week. Afterward, she pulled images from the video that recorded her every move and used them for an art piece. Her Escape Vehicle, a minia- ture Gulfstream trailer-type vehicle with a customized interior that looks like a rocky bench one might fi nd near a waterfall, is another of the alluring pieces in the exhibition. But Zittel said the uniforms remain personal favorites. “After looking at all the work in this show, this is the one that feels the most alive and the most substantial to me,” she said. “It’s the only form of public art that isn’t compromised in any way. With sculpture like so many other forms of art, you have to worry about lawsuits or the longevity of a piece.” A few of her uniforms will be sold in the $6,000 range and her hope is buyers will put them to good use. While some might ques- tion the hefty price tag, Zittel said, “It is a low price for art, but a SPRING 2006 high price for clothes.” The uniforms are typically purchased by collectors or institutions that support her do-it-yourself message.” PLEASE VISIT US AT THE NOUVEAU COLLECTIVE. “I wish more people who bought them, or who will buy them, CALL 1-800-892-4982 TO SET UP AN APPOINTMENT. will wear them,” she said. www.vineyardvines.com — Rosemary Feitelberg 10 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006 WWD.COM Speedo Looks Beyond the Water

By Melanie Kletter Sheree Waterson, president of NEW YORK — Speedo North America executives are keenly interested in the Olympic Speedo North America. Winter Games in Turin, but for different reasons than most spectators. The swimwear brand has been building its business outside of the swimming pool, and is using the Olympics in Turin to launch its fi rst winter apparel performance suits for the athletes in luge and skeleton events. Speedo’s move into winter sports is among several initiatives under the direction of Sheree Waterson, who this month is completing her fi rst year as the iconic brand’s North American president. “We want to layer on the cool factor,” Waterson said during an interview at the company’s showroom here. “We are taking Speedo out of the water and onto land.” Among the company’s key moves, in addition to introducing winter sports apparel, are: ● Pumping up the new activewear line with more fashion-forward products. ● A comprehensive marketing campaign intended to show the brand in a fresh way. ● Growing acces- sories, particularly Amanda Beard is the centerpiece footwear. of the new marketing campaign. ● Improved opera- tions through better sourcing. ● More fashion- able looks in the core performance swim offerings and the in- troduction of new performance tech- nologies. Speedo North America, a division of Warnaco Swim Group, is a key piece in Warnaco’s overall strategy to aggressive- ly build up its swim division. In addition to Speedo, Warnaco’s other swim brands include Anne Cole, Catalina and Calvin Klein, and the company makes swimwear under licenses for Nautica and Michael Kors. Warnaco bought Op in August 2004, and that business is seen as a signifi cant growth driver for the company and is now part of the swim division. In the recent nine-month period, Warnaco had overall sales of $1.14 billion, and swim- wear sales were up 22 percent in the third quarter, company executives said on a re- cent call. Nonetheless, the company said in January it would miss its sales and target profi ts for the year, and blamed it partly on lower sales of higher-margin swimwear in the fourth quarter ended Dec. 31. The stock closed Monday at $23.41 on the Nasdaq, down Growing accessories, particularly footwear, is another key focus. The footwear from its 52-week high of $28.22 in January. business is now a stand-alone division, and sales rose 35 percent to $28 million in Waterson is focused on using the brand’s 2004, Roger Williams, president of the Warnaco Swimwear Group, said on a call with past to guide its future. “What is important analysts last year. about Speedo is that we never want to be “We are broadening the footwear line to be not only casual, but technical, foot- something we’re not,” Waterson said. “We are Olympic luge athletes Vonetta Flowers and wear,” Waterson said, noting that the line includes thong styles and water shoes, and building on our heritage to take this brand Jean Prahm in Speedo FSII ice suits. boots will be introduced in 2007. forward.” By having a presence at the Winter Games and introducing winter performance Waterson, who was vice president of women’s apparel at Levi’s before joining apparel, Speedo is looking to build on its strength as a brand for Olympic athletes. Speedo and has a 25-year track record in the industry, brings a distinct sense of fash- At the 2004 Athens Summer Games, Speedo-sponsored Olympic athletes including ion to the company. A petite and lively redhead with a penchant for brands such as Michael Phelps, Natalie Coughlin and Amanda Beard were crowd favorites who Lanvin and Chanel, Waterson wore a black turtleneck, jeans and heavy motorcycle helped the U.S. take home more than two dozen medals in the swim competitions, boots during her recent visit here. including 12 golds. She has scrutinized Speedo top to bottom and has worked with consultants to help In Turin, Speedo is sponsoring luge and skeleton athletes, including Vonetta identify the brand’s key strengths. Flowers, Todd Hays, Chris Soule and Jean Prahm. The Fastskin FSII Ice Speed Suit “I look at the brand and I see so much that we could be,” Waterson said. “There is the athletes wear builds on the aerodynamic technology Speedo used in its perfor- so much history to Speedo.” mance swimsuits at the 2004 Summer Games and in Sydney in 2000. They are de- Speedo North America reported wholesale sales last year of about $250 million, signed to reduce friction drag by fi tting like a second skin, Waterson said. while retail sales of the brand worldwide topped $1 billion. Speedo is by far the larg- “The Winter Olympics are very important for us,” she said. “We spent a lot of time est U.S. athletic swim brand, with overall market share of about 50 percent, accord- testing and developing these suits. People came to us to develop these suits because ing to SportsScanInfo, a sporting goods market research company. The next closest they wanted something for speed, and they know we specialize in speed in the water. competitor is Nike, which has 17 percent of the athletic swim market. They also wanted something that was stylish, and that not only performs technically, The brand long has been known for its swimwear, but in the past two years, it has but also helps them feel great and look great while they do it.” sought to move beyond its core into activewear and innerwear with the Axcelerate The new direction of Speedo will be more apparent to consumers because of a Engineered by Speedo brand. multimillion-dollar national marketing campaign kicking off next month that is de- The Axcelerate activewear line, which bowed at retail last year, has been picked signed to convey energy and emotion, Waterson said. The images were developed by up by stores including Marshall Field’s, Nordstrom, Foley’s and Paragon Sports. KraftWorks and shot by Michael Thompson. They feature Beard in active poses and in For fall, the line is being expanded to include fl eece items and warm-up pieces, products from footwear, sportswear and swim from Axcelerate, and also prominently Waterson noted. feature the company’s boomerang logo. “We see this as a very relevant category that is in need of a distinctive look and we The campaign will include outdoor advertisements on billboards, taxis and bus think we can provide that,” she said. “The line is becoming more defi ned. There is a stops, as well as events and print advertising in magazines including Elle, Self, Lucky, base of bodywear components that can be worn to the gym, as well as tank tops and W, Nylon and Surface. Speedo last year launched its fi rst national ad campaign in six layering looks that can be mixed with everyday apparel.” years, also featuring Beard, to showcase its new direction, but those ads were devel- On the technology front, Speedo last year introduced Endurance, a chlorine-resis- oped in-house. tant fabric made of a polyester and blend that also has UV protection. This is a key “This campaign is to show that we are becoming a lifestyle brand,” said Waterson, initiative for Speedo for 2006 and is used in the performance and racing categories. adding that the company has never advertised before in directional publications such Another new technology is called XD Skin, which dries faster and has water-repellent as Nylon. “We want this ad campaign to be one that is connecting more with image- features. This new proprietary fabric is being used in Speedo’s elite products this leading consumers. We are looking to leverage the attributes of this brand to create a

year in swimwear and triathlon apparel. unique look and feel for Speedo.” THOMAS IANNACCONE BY STOCKMAN/GETTY IMAGES; WATERSON MATTHEW PHOTO BY LUGE WWDSOURCINGHORIZONS Pages 11-21

On the production line at a textile factory in Huaibei in east China’s Anhui province. PHOTO BY REUTERS/CHINA NEWSPOHOTO/LANDOVPHOTO BY NEW OPPORTUNITIES This year began with an agreement limiting imports to the U.S. from China through 2008, which caused sourcing executives to seek out fresh avenues of production in places such as India and Vietnam. Still, most companies are looking at China as the core of their manufacturing needs. Meanwhile, World Trade Organization countries are trying to hammer out a deal to reduce or lower tariffs globally, but many obstacles remain. 12 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006

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SOURCING HORIZONS

Two worlds passing in the port at Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. PHOTO BY STEPHEN SHAVER/BLOOMBERG NEWS/LANDOV STEPHEN SHAVER/BLOOMBERG PHOTO BY China Restrained but Undaunted

By Evan Clark ranging from cotton trousers to knit fabric and valued tween fi rms. at more than $6 billion — are restrained by quotas, “So new quota is less expensive than old quota, so WASHINGTON — THREATENED BY CONGRESS AND which gradually allow larger shipments to the U.S. be- to say, and, if China was competitive with old quota, restrained by a new set of quotas, China has taken fore expiring at the end of 2008. you can imagine that they continue to be competitive some blows, but is still poised to strengthen its lead There is a provision in the deal that allows for quo- with new quota,” said Zane. as the number-one producer of textiles and apparel tas on additional categories, though it is unclear how The availability of quota in China also complicates shipped to the U.S. likely or when those restrictions could be applied. sourcing within the country. Still, the restraints on China have opened up an Domestic textile groups are working on somehow ex- “The costs are a factor; another factor is practical- opportunity for other countries, such as India, to tending restraints on Chinese imports beyond 2008. ity,” said Mark Jaeger, senior vice president and gen- develop their industries, beef up their infrastruc- eral counsel at Jockey International. “It’s not as easy tures and become more important sources of apparel to move production to contractors that have not been bound for the U.S. allocated quota. It’s made it stickier to transfer busi- “It continues to be a buyer’s market,” said Bob The world will wind up with ness amongst customers in China.” Zane, senior vice president at Liz Claiborne Inc. “Lots “ Many doing business in China simply deal with ad- of product is available from lots of different sources, fewer factories in fewer countries ditional costs from quotas as best they can. and many of the [factories] continue to solicit business “As a collection, when you’re doing production and by offering better conditions and more services.” doing more things, providing you’re working closely with a retailer, there are cer- That advantage for importers won’t last, said Zane, tain categories that you must price-average with cer- who expects a “shaking out” or consolidation of pro- more and more services, as well tain quota conditions to satisfy the customer’s needs,” duction down the road. said Robert Rosen, chief executive offi cer of La Rose “The world will wind up with fewer factories in as more and more product. Inc., which produces the Bob Mackie Studio line. fewer countries doing more things, providing more ” This mean accepting lower profi ts on some categories and more services, as well as more and more prod- — Bob Zane, Liz Claiborne Inc. to keep the business in China and the retailers happy. uct,” he said. “It’s all about working for the retailer, and making China will continue to grow, eventually producing the retailing community comfortable and profi table, and 50 to 80 percent of U.S.-destined apparel, said Zane. The accord was counted as a win for the domestic because of that, we are forced to do this,” said Rosen. Last year, the country captured 33 percent of the ap- textile industry, which used its clout on Capitol Hill The new arrangement with China is an improvement parel and textile import market to the U.S. with ship- to push for the restrictions. At least some importers, for importers over the chaos of sourcing last year. Before ments of 16.8 billion square meter equivalents valued however, seem to have taken what they saw as a lemon the deal was reached, importers doing business in the at $22.4 billion. of an agreement and made lemonade. country faced the looming possibility of temporary safe- The overall trade defi cit with China, which hit Zane pointed out that the quotas provided by the guard quotas being imposed by the U.S. government $201.6 billion last year, has fueled efforts to clamp latest agreement are in some cases four times greater — they were — and fi lling them before orders that were down on the country, including a restrictive import than the 2004 quotas, and Chinese factories are able already placed could be brought to the U.S. market. agreement inked in November. to buy quota more cheaply than in years past, he said. “The whole thing with China is predictability,” said Under that deal, 34 types of goods from China — Quota in China can be traded like a commodity be- Continued on page 14

14 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006

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SOURCING HORIZONS New Quotas Boost China’s Neighbors PHOTO BY JENS BUETTNER/EPA/CORBIS PHOTO BY OPAs allow Made in China labels for goods made in Hong Kong and Macau. The China Alternative: Hong Kong, Macau OPAs

By Vicki Rothrock HONG KONG — Outward processing arrangements have become an integral part of the garment manu- facturing business in Asia, given past uncertainty over textile and apparel quotas and the current import restraint agreements between China and the U.S. and the European Union. PHOTO BY JEREMY HORNER/CORBIS PHOTO BY The issue of quota focuses on a “Made in China” Indian producers stand to gain from U.S. restrictions on Chinese apparel and textiles. stamp. Outward processing arrangements, known as OPAs, allow companies to do part of the work in Continued from page 12 China and part of it in Hong Kong or Macau, which Tom Haugen, president of Li & Fung USA. “If you need something, it’s not a big deal to pay more money for it as are special administrative districts of China, but long as you know you’re going to get it.” have their exports treated autonomously. Even with that stability, the restraints in China are pushing business elsewhere or at least giving other ap- In order to have the country of origin as Hong parel-producing countries some breathing room. Kong or Macau, effectively skirting the quota issue, “It’s a great thing for India,” said Haugen. “It buys them a little more time to get their infrastructure [such as companies subcontract outside these two territo- roads and ports] pulled together. It’s not terrifi c now, but it will certainly get better.” ries “the subsidiary or minor fi nishing processes,” Bangladesh, Indonesia and Vietnam are also likely benefi ciaries of restraints on China, said Haugen. according to the Hong Kong Trade & Industry Given that the import agreement with China just went into effect on Jan. 1 and the long lead times for ap- Department. parel production, it remains unclear exactly how much production will shift and where it will end up. To qualify, garments that are produced with this “From a sourcing perspective for us, everything is sort of status quo,” said Joe McConnell, vice president of arrangement must have principal manufacturing strategic sourcing at Kellwood Co. “We’re looking at the costs and the opportunities, and I think that’s what the processes completed in Hong Kong or Macau. For next few months are going to be about.” example, principal processes that are required for a When making those sourcing decisions, McConnell said Kellwood would look at the availability of novelty, garment made from knitted fabrics include sewing, basic and specialty fabrics in the region and their proximity to the factory, what type of needlework the factory linking and the stitching of parts into a garment. offers, lead and delivery times and, of course, cost. The fl exibility that comes with working with For now, he said Kellwood would continue to increase production in China and also look into shifting pro- OPAs becomes important when there is only so duction to Sri Lanka, Indonesia and Thailand. much quota to be had from China, whether the gar- As U.S. brands look around the world and reconsider where to produce their goods and how much it will ments are bound for the U.S. or the EU. cost, the varying trade restrictions on each country, such as the standard duties placed on foreign goods, become Figures detailing how many garments have been important points of difference. shipped out of Hong Kong or Macau through OPAs “As we move forward with the proliferation of so many trade agreements and preferences by the United weren’t available. States, that will further skew how people are responding [to restraints on China],” said Thomas Travis, chair- Global apparel supply chain service provider man of Sandler & Travis Trade Advisory Services. Luen Thai began preparing OPAs in late 2004 in Trade pacts, such as the North American Free Trade Agreement or preference programs such as the African Hong Kong and Macau. The two facilities account- Growth & Opportunity Act, giving special treatment to goods from countries in sub-Saharan Africa, reduce the ed for 2.9 percent of Luen Thai’s fi rst-half ship- burden of duties on imports. ments in 2005. Luen Thai’s fi rst-half 2005 sales The power of trade pacts can be seen in the example of Jordan, which entered into a free-trade agreement were $267.5 million. with the U.S. in 2001 and has qualifi ed industrial zones that let it take advantage of a trade deal between the The company’s Hong Kong OPA was renovated U.S. and Israel. Jordanian apparel exports to the U.S. topped $1 billion last year, up from about $12 million in last year for expansion. The target is 400,000 units 1999. Liz Claiborne, for one, began manufacturing there about fi ve years ago and last year did $70 million worth a month, said chief operating offi cer Henry Tan of business in the country. during the company’s fi rst-half fi nancial announce- Travis said for companies manufacturing with man-made fi ber, where duty rates can be high, producing in coun- ment in September. At that time, the facility was tries or regions with free trade or preferential agreements that qualify for duty-free shipments is benefi cial. turning out about 75,000 units a month. The Central American Free Trade Agreement, which has passed Congress and was signed by President The OPAs relieve some of the pressure, Tan Bush, but has yet to be implemented, could benefi t from restrictions on China. U.S. Trade Representative Rob said, but it’s been diffi cult for companies who don’t Portman last week said he hopes El Salvador and Nicaragua will be ready to put the pact into effect on March have that alternative. In addition, OPAs aren’t con- 1, and Guatemala, Costa Rica, Honduras and the Dominican Republic are working on it. sidered as effi cient as vertical manufacturing in Other countries might become more attractive places to do business, given the uncertainty surrounding one facility. China’s policies managing its currency, the yuan. While Luen Thai is a major contender in the U.S. textile fi rms and many lawmakers believe the yuan is undervalued by as much as 40 percent, giving the manufacturing world, smaller sourcing fi rms based country’s goods signifi cant pricing power on the international market. in Hong Kong also are taking advantage of OPAs. Last year, Sens. Charles Schumer (D., N.Y.) and Lindsey Graham (R., S.C.) introduced a bill that would impose Last year, William E. Connor & Associates put a 27.5 percent tariff on all imports from China if that nation does not revalue its currency. a China country of origin stamp on less than half Despite plenty of tough talk directed at China and its currency policies, Treasury Secretary John Snow has of its products; about 50 percent was completed at so far refrained from declaring the country a currency manipulator, a distinction that could ultimately lead to an OPA in Hong Kong or Macau. Another privately World Trade Organization action. He did say in November, however, that steps taken by the Chinese government held fi rm, Lark Apparel Holdings Ltd., was using to let the value of yuan fl uctuate mildly were insuffi cient. OPAs in southern China. “The actual operation of the new system is highly constricted,” said Snow. “As a result, the distortions and Working with an OPA is benefi cial, but it does risks created by China’s rigid exchange rate still persist....It is imperative that China move toward greater fl ex- require more paperwork, time and freight costs. ibility as quickly as possible.” Not any factory in Hong Kong or Macau can The question of currency reform in China and what the U.S. will ultimately do about it looms large for some switch gears and become an OPA overnight. To importers. qualify as an OPA facility in Hong Kong, the fac- “I just think one day that we’re playing tough guy with China, we’re threatening them with all these sanctions tory needs to have a valid factory registration, as and the next day we’re backing off,” said Steven Feinstein, president of New York-based M.M.&R. Inc., which mar- well as be registered as an OPA with the Trade & kets the ECI brand. “One day we’re threatening that if they don’t loosen up on their currency restrictions that we’re Industry Department. going to do this, and then the next day it’s not an issue anymore. It’s just very hard to gauge what’s going on.” CRYSTAL SILVER SHADE Like a nocturnal sphinx basking in a pool of shimmering light, Crystal Silver Shade purrs with sleek sophistication. The appeal of this new effect lies in its timeless and understated elegance. Find more detailed information on the Crystal Silver Shade product assortment and other Swarovski innovations for Spring/Summer 2007 in our CRYSTALLIZED™ magazine, available from February 2006, and on www.swarovski.com/business

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SOURCING HORIZONS Global Tariff Talks at Hig

By John Zarocostas Pascal Lamy GENEVA — THE DOHA ROUND OF GLOBAL trade liberalization talks are at a crossroads, as ministers and top negotiators from 149 countries prepare the groundwork for the endgame trade- offs needed to reach a successful deal by the end of this year. An agreement would help lower barriers to goods and services worth $11 trillion a year, including more than $453 billion a year in textiles and apparel, according to 2004 World Trade Organization fi gures. Pascal Lamy, director-general of the Geneva- based WTO, which is sponsoring the talks, said 2006 “must be the year in which we conclude the round for the benefi t of all participants.” Lamy said the Hong Kong Ministerial held in December “provided a road map for the fi nal stages of the negotiations.” At Hong Kong, the WTO’s 149 members agreed to scrap agricultural export subsidies by 2013, while cotton-rich countries agreed to eliminate all forms of export subsidies for cotton this year. They also agreed to provide duty-free and quota-free market access for products coming from the 50 Least Developed Countries, which combined account for less then 1 percent of world trade, on 97 percent of products by 2008 or no later than the start of the implementation period. Terms to broker a deal on trade facilitation that will simplify customs clearance procedures were also agreed upon in Hong Kong. But those talks failed to craft a blueprint for agriculture and nonagricultural market access. Instead, mem- bers said those models for agriculture and NAMA, including numerical targets, dates and formulas for slashing tariffs and subsidies, would be estab- Some feel it won’t come about until this summer. lished by the end of April. There’s a feeling by other envoys that the round In a bid to expedite the process, during a meet- will end in 2006 and insist it’s in the hands of the ing late last month in Davos, Switzerland, minis- EU and its stance on agriculture. Some fear many ters from about 20 countries, including U.S. Trade WTO members will opt for a lower level of ambi- Representative Rob Portman, reaffi rmed the Hong tion by accepting what Brussels puts on the table. Kong road map and agreed to a set of new timelines. However, there are concerns by some envoys that “There’s a sea change in attitude…by appear- among the major powers — with the exception of ance, people are ready to deal,” said a senior the U.S., which is pushing hard on both agriculture trade offi cial who requested anonymity. and NAMA — many are preparing for a minimum “We see a flurry about process, but have package or what is being called “Doha Light.” yet to come to grips with substance,” said Portman is adamant this is “not acceptable” for Ujal Singh Bhatia, India’s WTO ambassador. “But, the U.S. and believes the round is a “once-in-a- hopefully soon…we can tackle this honestly.” generation opportunity to slash tariffs, distorting The chief U.S. agriculture negotiator, Richard subsidies and increasing global growth.” Crowder, earlier this month admitted that the end But, “No one wants to pay a big bill; the ambi- of April “is an aggressive timetable,” but added, tion is not there,” said a WTO ambassador from a “It is needed to conclude the round by the end developing country, speaking anonymously. of 2006, before the expiration of the President’s In preparation for the package deal, WTO trade trade promotion authority in 2007.” diplomats said discussions are also under way on “Fast track [as TPA used to be known] is al- how to accommodate the concerns of poor countries KNOWLEDGE • SERVICE • SOLUTIONS ready in people’s minds,” said an ambassador that stand to lose existing market share from the from a developing country who did not want his erosion of trade preferences in a deal to slash tariffs. name used. “Everyone is sensitive to that and to Textiles and apparel are among the products some the changed mood in Congress, which is not most poor African and Caribbean countries are asking be favorable to trade.” exempted from normal formula cuts under NAMA. A To prepare the groundwork for the linkages to the diplomat tracking NAMA said this could be achieved possible trade-offs, ministers at Davos agreed that by providing longer periods for the phase-in of the all key issues, in particular agriculture and NAMA, cuts, or an agreement to cut lower than those envis- need to move simultaneously. Until now, many de- aged by the formula, or a mixture of the two. veloping countries have held back from contemplat- A senior official from a major Asian tex- ing the ambitious demands of the European Union tiles exporting power, who asked not to be and the U.S. on industrial tariffs until they see their named, said, “We’re sympathetic to the need demands on agriculture met fi rst. for more fl exibility on these products, but the The hard-line stance of the EU on market ac- cuts in tariff peaks and tariff escalation should cess for agricultural products has been so far the not be minimized. We could consider longer biggest barrier to a breakthrough. Brussels linked implementation periods, and some need to further movement, however, on progress by major be compensated for market loss. But these should 3145 NORTHWEST BLVD. developing countries on NAMA and services. not be across the board, but targeted.” “After Hong Kong and the mini ministerial in For competitive textile and apparel export- Davos, people are looking to close the round very ers such as Sri Lanka, a major outcome of NAMA GASTONIA, NC 28052 much this year,” said Guillermo Valles Galmes, should be to go after the high-tariff, rich countries. Uruguay’s WTO ambassador. “What we would like to see is the high tariff and tel 704-864-5495 fax 704-836-3143 Munir Ahmad, executive director of the 26-mem- tariff peaks in Sri Lanka’s exports of textiles and ber International Textiles & Clothing Bureau, the apparel sharply reduced,” said Gomi Senadhira, www.radicispandex.com umbrella body for developing country exporters, Sri Lanka’s WTO ambassador. “Not only do we pay said, “I think it will be fi nished this year. The issues higher tariffs, but we face discriminatory treatment are ripe and the only thing required is the political in countries such as the U.S. and Canada. Because www.radicigroup.com will to do it. People can see the shape of a package.” of [the African Growth & Opportunity Act] and Given the poor track record of WTO members other [free-trade agreement] benefi ts, [many of] our in the Doha talks in meeting self-imposed dead- competitors get duty-free and quota-free access. So lines, some negotiators are skeptical that a posi- you have tariff peaks on one side and preferential

Solotards by Capezio tive outcome can be achieved by the end of April. arrangements to our competitors on the other.” WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006 17

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Cotton Conference Highlights Trade Challenges gh Noon Jon Fee, a partner at Washington-based law fi rm Alston & Bird By Khanh T.L. Tran LLP, warned against a rolling implementation of CAFTA. While BEVERLY HILLS — AS RETAILERS AND MANUFACTURERS CAFTA may go into effect in El Salvador and Nicaragua on March look abroad to produce lower-cost clothing, apparel executives 1, Costa Rica has yet to ratify the trade agreement, he noted. must navigate issues such as trade preferences, the pending im- “This rolling implementation is really ineffective and danger- plementation of the Central American Free Trade Agreement ous,” he said, citing potential complications with products that and on-time deliveries. start production in one country and are fi nished in another. These global challenges were addressed at Cotton Inc.’s Labuda noted attendees’ unease with CAFTA and said, “We’ll Sourcing Summit 2006, which ended here Friday at the Beverly see what happens.” Hilton Hotel. The three-day summit drew 200 attendees, includ- Labuda added that her offi ce recorded $21 billion in trade ing manufacturers from as far as India and Peru, as well as ex- preference claims out of $88.4 billion in imports last year. She ecutives responsible for sourcing and design from companies said she expects trade preference claims to increase 6 percent such as Gap Inc., Kellwood Co. and Polo Ralph Lauren. Janet this year. Labuda, director of textile enforcement and operations for U.S. Sonia Syngal, vice president of sourcing strategy for San Customs and Border Protection, also attended to offer the gov- Francisco’s Gap, said the company generates annual sales of ernment’s perspective. more than $16 billion and sources $7 billion a year. “American companies are really important for Peruvian Manufacturers from China and India tried to woo new clients companies,” said Patricio Luzanto, general manager of Peru’s at the summit. Limatex, which manufactures T-shirts for Abercrombie & Fitch, “China is not the cheapest place to make product,” acknowl- among other clients. edged Rick Helfenbein, president of New York-based Luen Thai According to Luzanto, 70 percent of Peru’s exports head USA, which runs factories in China, including a 1.4-million- to the U.S. market, while the rest go to Europe and Latin square-foot facility that is a 90-minute drive from Hong Kong, America. employs more than 8,000 workers and uses roughly 2 million Free-trade agreements with Peru and other countries in the pounds of cotton a week. Andean region were hot topics of discussion. The Bush admin- Helfenbein said his company offers an effi cient system mod- istration signed a FTA with Peru in December and negotiations eled after shoe factories. with Colombia and Ecuador are still under way. Summit par- Jagadish Hinduja, managing director of manufacturer ticipants were eager for a regional Andean pact to be signed. Gokaldas Images, located in Bangalore, India, countered that Maureen Gray, vice president of international trade for Polo India’s hourly wages are cheaper than China’s, although the Ralph Lauren, said the company saved about $6 million in du- subcontinent still faces challenges such as high power and capi- ties last year on products made in Colombia and Peru. tal costs, poor roads and low productivity. CAFTA, on the other hand, was a vexing topic. Nonetheless, he said India is the world’s third-largest pro- “CAFTA has not been to our expectations,” said Joe ducer of cotton and that the government plans to invest up to McConnell, vice president of strategic sourcing at St. Louis- $15 billion in its apparel industry, ranging from spinning to gar- based Kellwood. ment dyeing, in the next four years. PHOTO BY EPA/MARTIAL TREZZINI/LANDOV EPA/MARTIAL PHOTO BY

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SOURCING HORIZONS End of Presidential Trade Authority Looms Over Agenda

By Kristi Ellis “There is an obvious urgency with the Doha agenda,” said Phillip Swagel, resi- dent scholar at the American Enterprise Institute, referring to the current WTO- WASHINGTON — THE U.S. IS DRIVING ITS DOMESTIC AND GLOBAL TRADE sponsored global trade talks meant to reduce or eliminate quotas. “Right now it is agenda this year with a single engine — the expiration of Trade Promotion pushing people to get a far-reaching agreement, but at some point it will have the Authority. opposite effect and force people to focus on a limited agreement.” The specter of losing TPA, which allows the President to negotiate trade deals Swagel said TPA renewal is “extremely unlikely” given the current mood in that Congress cannot amend, has by default become the catalyst behind the time- Congress on trade. table for the global round of trade talks, as well as several bilateral trade deals the “The fact that it is hard to imagine TPA passing is a real comment on how U.S. is negotiating. Congress and the public view trade and trade policy,” said Cass Johnson, president Retailers and apparel importers are generally supportive of presidential negoti- of the National Council of Textile Organizations. “The amazing thing is [the U.S.] ating power because it allows the President to negotiate a trade deal that cannot be can’t do any substantial trade agreements after June 2007 because it knows it won’t changed by Congress and sets a rigid timetable for consideration. The U.S. textile get TPA and that shows you are in a very tenuous environment.” industry is largely opposed to such authority because it diminishes Congressional Johnson, whose group supported CAFTA, said the general mood on the Hill re- power and takes away lawmakers’ ability to change aspects of trade deals that could garding trade is “trepidation.” harm domestic industries. “They view it as politically costly and they don’t see the payback except in the On Capitol Hill, Republicans and Democrats both acknowledge that the expira- philosophical sense,” said Johnson. tion of TPA on July 1, 2007, has given a sense of urgency to all trade matters because He also noted that the European Union might not be able, politically, to move the it appears unlikely Congress will extend the controversial authority next year as the Doha round forward, adding the round could collapse because there is a deadline 2008 presidential race begins and Bush takes on lame duck status. for TPA. In addition, the midterm elections in November could change the balance of Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American Manufacturing Trade Action power in one or both chambers, which, in turn, will impact the vote on TPA. Coalition, said, “Every agreement ever submitted to Congress under fast track has Congress narrowly approved TPA in 2002 as part of a broader trade package been approved, but when you look at the [overall] legislative process, probably less known as the Trade Act of 2002. The authority gives foreign countries assurance that than 5 percent of all bills introduced are ever passed and signed into law…so you Congress won’t amend trade pacts negotiated by the administration, since it only have a 95 percent failure rate. allows for an up or down vote. But it also greatly diminishes the role of Congress in “With fast track, you have a 100 percent success rate with all agreements and altering a trade deal, which is why renewal of the authority is far from certain. something is wrong there. It was an enormous concession by Congress to the execu- TPA, formerly known as fast track, expired in 1994 and wasn’t renewed until 2002. tive branch and we have a $700 billion annual trade defi cit to show for it.” During that eight-year period, the only free-trade agreement that cleared Congress Tantillo also said the climate on the Hill does not favor renewal of TPA. was one with Jordan. “Congress will have an opportunity to look at the concessions the U.S. has made Congress has passed every other bilateral and multilateral trade deal under fast up to a point early next year and they will have a much more clear view of what fast track or TPA, including pacts with Australia, Bahrain, Chile, Israel, Morocco and track extension gave them,” said Tantillo. “Right now, it looks like Doha will provide Singapore; two regional agreements — the North American Free Trade Agreement signifi cant one-way concessions from the U.S., with nonreciprocal access from nu- with Mexico and Canada, and the Central American Free Trade Agreement with merous WTO countries, and that will be a diffi cult product to sell.” Costa Rica, Honduras, Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua and the Dominican Importers and retailers are supportive of TPA, but they acknowledge the prospect Republic — as well and the GATT, the multilateral pact that led to the creation of of renewal is not promising. the WTO. GATT also resulted in most countries dropping import quotas this year “TPA expires one-and-a-half years from now and that means there is less than a after a 10-year phaseout. year to get an agreement on Doha and free-trade agreements,” said Stephen Lamar, senior vice president at the American Apparel & Footwear Association. “Everyone knows that, so people are responding and not just sitting on proposals. The deadline in the expiration of TPA certainly creates a dynamic that makes folks more likely to come to the table with serious proposals.” innovationinnovation in Julia Hughes, vice president of international trade at the motionmotion U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles & Apparel, said the trade agenda would be in great jeopardy without TPA. “Clinton lost it and that made it difficult to have momentum on trade issues,” said Hughes. “Realistically, without it, you can’t bring home the negotiations be- cause it is a pretty rare deal that gets consensus in either house.”

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WWD.COM U.S. Pushes Ahead on Free Trade By Evan Clark American FTA. Agreements already exist with Australia, Chile, WASHINGTON — BENEATH THE BIGGER ISSUES OF Israel, Jordan, Morocco and Singapore, as well as the international cohesion, lower prices and lost jobs, free North American Free Trade Agreement with Mexico trade agreements are complex pacts fi lled with legal and Canada. Here’s a primer to the agreements in nuances and details that can translate into big oppor- the works, put together by WWD and International tunities or major threats. Development Systems. Understanding those fi ne points is vital if importers are going to take advantage of reduced duty rates pro- ● Andean Trade Promotion Agreement vided by the trade deals. Peru, Colombia and Ecuador “As the patchwork of these free trade agreements comes Talks wrapped up with Peru in December 2005 and are together, the most important element is the rule of ori- ongoing with Colombia and Ecuador. gin,” said Natalie Hanson, vice president of International Rule of Origin: Yarn forward (for Peru) U.S. Trade Rep. Rob Portman and Development Systems, a trade consulting fi rm here. Trade Preference Level: No (for Peru) South Korean Trade Minister The rule of origin dictates where the raw materi- Total apparel and textile imports: $1.5 billion (for region) Hyun-chong Kim recently agreed to als can come from for goods to be eligible for duty-free begin talks for a free trade agreement. treatment. The standard is yarn forward, which means ● Bahrain Free Trade Agreement AP PHOTO/DENNIS COOK PHOTO BY the yarn used in the imports must come from one of the Waiting to be implemented countries in the agreement. Rule of Origin: Yarn forward ● South Korea Free Trade Agreement However, even agreements with similar rules of ori- Trade Preference Level: 10-year TPLs for fabrics, cot- On Feb. 2, the U.S. and South Korea said they would begin gin can be quite different in practice, given the varying ton, man-made fi ber apparel, made-ups (sheets, towels) negotiations after a mandatory 90-day waiting period, which exceptions baked into each deal. Most apparel and textile items will be duty-free upon gives Congress a chance to weigh in before talks start. Trade preference levels, which often allow quantities implementation. Total apparel and textile imports: $1.9 billion of some raw materials to come from countries outside the Total apparel and textile imports: $173 million accord, are one kind of important and frequent exception. ● Thailand Free Trade Agreement “Of what we have right now, the most liberal rule of ● Central American Free Trade Agreement Negotiations began June 2004. origin is the one used for the Israel and Jordan free trade Costa Rica, Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Guatemala, Total apparel and textile imports: $2.1 billion agreements,” said Hanson. “That rule does away with the Honduras, Nicaragua need for a tariff preference level.” Waiting to be implemented ● Oman Free Trade Agreement It is the U.S. Trade Representative’s offi ce that ham- Rule of Origin: Yarn forward Waiting for Congressional approval mers out these details and signs a treaty that gets present- Trade Preference Level: 10-year TPL for cotton and Rule of Origin: Yarn forward ed to Congress for approval. Once Congress signs off on the man-made fi ber from Nicaragua and a two-year TPL for Trade Preference Level: Cotton and man-made fi ber pact and the President gives his OK, the countries often woven tailored wool apparel from Costa Rica. apparel have to make some fi nal tweaks, such as adjusting certain Duty-free treatment is retroactive to January 2004. Total apparel and textile imports: $61 million laws, before the agreement is implemented. Total apparel and textile imports: $9.3 billion The number of agreements has expanded sig- ● United Arab Emirates Free Trade Agreement nifi cantly under the Bush administration, which this ● South African Customs Union Free Trade Agreement Negotiations began in March 2005. month said it would begin talks for an FTA with South Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia, South Africa and Swaziland Total apparel and textile imports: $251 million Korea. With two-way trade of about $70 billion a year, Negotiations began June 2003. an agreement would be the largest since the North Total apparel and textile imports: $735 million (Import fi gures are for the 12 months ended November 2005.)

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WWD.COM

SOURCING HORIZONS Lost at Sea: Gauging the Risks of Ocean Freight

By Ross Tucker In 1999, the Ever Decent collided with a luxury liner in the English Channel. NEW YORK — There is no shortage of opportunity for goods to get lost or damaged in their journey from the factory floor to store shelves. Ships sink, and containers leak, slide overboard in storms, fall off truck beds and get broken into at port facilities. Insurance has kept lawsuits for damage re- covery down. However, with larger ships scheduled to hit the seas in the coming years, accidents may put more at stake for shippers and insurers. Getting an idea of how many goods are currently lost or damaged in transit is diffi cult to pin down because ocean freight shipping lines, ports, rail lines and trucking com- panies are not eager to advertise such statistics. Transit industry sources pointed out that the rate of loss or dam- age is low considering the numerous times goods change hands and forms of transportation along the way. “The entire logistics industry has become more so- phisticated in areas like how they handle hazardous cargo,” said Lee Sandler, a founding partner of inter- national trade law fi rm Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg. “We don’t see as many claims where cargo wasn’t se- cured properly or where cargo that was supposed to be stored below deck wasn’t.” Steve Ferreira, founder of Ocean Freight Refunds, which audits freight records to reclaim improper charges, said he also has seen improvements in how ocean carriers handle and arrange cargo. “The general public thinks it’s only our stereos and TVs being shipped,” said Ferreira. “But there’s fi re- works and highly corrosive chemicals. Those things can AP PHOTO/MIKE PETTPHOTO BY really wreak havoc on a closed hatch containership.” od and that’s a conservative number,” said Ferreira. The carrier in turn has bought liability insurance to Ferreira said several years ago a container fi lled “That’s going to be huge claims against the insurance protect itself for damage to cargo.” with fi reworks was loaded in the middle of a ship agencies.” Ferreira, however, has noticed his customers opting and exploded during the voyage, resulting in loss of With larger ships going to sea, those loses also will to pay for more protection. life and the destruction of containers within 100 feet. get a bump. “I’m noticing that a lot of my customers, more so Those sorts of problems have been greatly reduced. China’s dominant manufacturing position has made than ever, are purchasing marine insurance to protect “I think in fairness to the steamship lines, they’re the Pacifi c Ocean the crucial artery for nearly all themselves,” said Ferreira. probably doing a better job about looking at the types major ship lines. For APL Lines, trans-Pacifi c shipping The explanation for the trend has little to do with any of cargo that could cause havoc on a ship.” accounts for nearly 36 percent of its annual contain- increase in the number of goods getting lost or damaged. However, damage claims occur at a fairly consistent er volume. The company’s second-largest trade area Instead, Ferreira believes it has more to do with price rate, according to Ferreira. comes from trade between Asian countries, accounting protection in the rare event something does go wrong. “What I see, based on my experience working with for 31 percent of its container volume. “There’s a tremendous shortage of raw materials the big-box retailers, is that for every 100 containers, I APL is anticipating signifi cant growth in container in China, so that if a customer does experience a loss, would expect to have one claim,” said Ferreira. “The volume in its trans-Pacifi c route over the next four they want to be able to re-create the order. Without the claim could be for a loss, damage, shortage or pilfer- years, as well. Container volume is forecasted to reach insurance, there’s no guarantee they’ll get the same age, or even a hole in the container that causes dam- 17 million 20-foot equivalent units — the standard pricing from their vendor,” said Ferreira, who added age to part of the shipment.” maritime industry measurement used to count cargo that such insurance wasn’t cheap. Container losses in the Pacifi c Ocean pick up each containers — by 2009, up from about 12 million TEUs Sandler points out that shippers may fi le suits if year between June and December as a result of hur- in 2005. Ships capable of carrying up to 12,000 TEUs they have no insurance or are underinsured. ricanes, according to Ferreira. are also on the horizon. “In that case, they typically sue the carrier and ev- “There’s at least several hundred containers per LeRoy Lambert, a partner with maritime law fi rm eryone in the supply chain looking for someone who hurricane season that are lost during that time peri- Healy & Baillie, concedes that larger ships have the could be deemed responsible, someone with the deep- potential for larger losses, but doesn’t feel that makes est pocket,” said Sandler. those ships more or less prone to risk. “The technology is keeping pace and they’re getting more and more sophisticated,” said Lambert. The shipper of the goods has one year to fi le a law- suit for lost or damaged goods, according to Lambert. Most issues are resolved between the insurance agents of both the shipper and the carrier. Lawsuits are gen- erally fi led only as a measure of protection. “As the year runs out, a protective suit will get fi led,” said Lambert. “People aren’t just going to walk away.” Still, Lambert doesn’t anticipate a rise in the num- ber of lawsuits fi led over the coming years. “Most companies will have fi rst-party insurance,” said Lambert. “You insure the goods that you own for Workers struggle to retrieve toppled containers. shipment so if you have a loss, you fi rst go to your in-

PHOTO BY AP PHOTO/STR PHOTO BY Loss claims are usually sorted out among insurance agents.

surance carrier. It’s like collision coverage for a car…. EPA/STAFF/LANDOV PHOTO BY

In an unrelated case, Benetton Trading USA fi led suit against The plaintiffs named in the lawsuit included Target Corp., Maersk for failure to deliver products. Benetton claimed Phillips-Van Heusen, Oxford Industries, Saramax Apparel damages of just over $200,000 for shipments of wearing Group, Boutique Jacob, I.E. Industries Fashions, At Last LEGAL BRIEFS apparel damaged between Genoa, Italy, and Newark. Sportswear and Consolidated Apparel Group, as well as the The cases fi led were standard shipping lawsuits with no insurance companies that cover some of those companies. GAP SUES MAERSK: The Gap Inc. fi led a $10.9 million reference to a signifi cant misdeed, said Steven Gursky, a The lawsuit alleges that Hapag-Lloyd and other named breach of contract of carriage lawsuit against A.P. Moller partner with Dreier LLP, who is not affi liated with the cases. defendants breached their duty to provide a seaworthy vessel KS, which does business as the freight carrier Maersk “Sometimes things happen when goods are shipped,” at the commencement of the voyage, and as a result failed to Sealand, for loss and damage to a shipment of clothing. said Gurksy. deliver the cargoes in good order and condition. Hapag-Lloyd According to the suit fi led in Manhattan Federal Court said the lawsuit fi led was for cargo that was destroyed, along late last month, 10 containers carrying women’s and girls’ TSUNAMI TROUBLE: A group of retail and apparel companies with the carrying vessel Jaami, by a tsunami in the Indian merchandise for Gap were lost overboard, and four others fi led a lawsuit against Hapag-Lloyd, a logistics company, Ocean on Dec. 26, 2004, according to Eva Gjersvik, head of were damaged while in transit in January 2003. According and other affi liated companies seeking combined damages group communication for the Hapag-Lloyd Container Line. to court documents, the loss and damage occurred en route of $4.5 million. The complaint was fi led in January for The company declined to comment further, citing company to Port of Newark, N.J., from Colombo, Sri Lanka. apparel goods allegedly damaged or lost while aboard the policy regarding pending litigation. Maersk declined to comment on the pending litigation. M/V Jaami ship in December 2004. — Liza Casabona

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An overview of the Texworld show. Texworld Expands Before ’07 Move PARIS — Texworld will be moving to its roomi- er Porte de Versailles venue in March 2007, but to accommodate newcomers at the show’s La Defense-based event that starts its four-day run on Monday, two halls have been added, dubbed L’Espace Grande Arche. Hall E will host the event’s fi rst Chinese trend forum, showcasing Chinese textile manu- facturers. “Creativity is a major [focus] point for these manufacturers, who are proving they are on a par with Europeans in terms of trends,” said or- ganizer Stephanie Keukert. Nature-based and ethnic themes represent Buyers inspecting piece goods. two of the key trends explored in the Chinese forum, Keukert said. “To take part, manufacturers have to produce twice-yearly collections and be able to demon- strate their own design identity, not just what they’re producing for other companies,” she said. Mills See European Rebound In Hall F, about 70 international exhibitors will be on display, primarily from China, India By Robert Murphy and Turkey. Exhibitors will be divided into four sectors: cotton, denim and linen; knitwear; wool, PARIS — Low-cost textiles from the Far East continue to boom, but and functional textiles. high-end European mills are successfully navigating choppy seas, Newcomers will include Harbin Linen Group, according to organizers of Texworld and Première Vision, which Shenglon Linen and China’s Haitian Textile, open their doors to visitors here next week. as well as Maral Overseas, an Indian fi rm that High-end European fi rms, PV’s bread and butter, have suffered makes knitwear for brands such as Lacoste. in recent years from a wave of companies in Asian countries includ- “These exhibitors are very keen to be seen ing China, the mainstay of Texworld. Daniel Faure, PV’s president, as fashion-forward brands,” said a Texworld expects that trend to continue. spokeswoman. “I can’t say that European textile mills are euphoric,” he said. — Katya Foreman But business this season won’t be dour necessarily, Faure said, stressing that fi rms with niche products and creations with “real added value” have thrived. “There are European companies that have done very well re- cently,” he said. “But they don’t like to talk about it. They don’t want to share their secret formula with the others.” Signs of economic recovery in Europe, especially an increase in con- sumer spending in Germany, augurs well for the season, organizers said. “Germany is moving in the right direction and usually that is a very good harbinger of things to come for the rest of Europe,” said Stephanie Keukert, who organizes Texworld. “There are also signs of improvement in Italy.” Growth should also come from America and Asia. Organizers said preregistration numbers were healthy. Texworld has more reason to feel upbeat than PV. Texworld’s 680 exhibitors are mostly from countries such as India and China, the most direct threats to European mills. Though the fairs don’t admit to being in direct competition, crossover shopping between them has increased, as clothing manufacturers concentrate on the bottom line. Creativity and innovation are more prodigious at PV, with buy- ers fl ocking there to get the best read on trends. This season, PV is pumping even more energy into its trend forums and reorganizing the exhibitors into more-defi ned sections. Increasingly, however, buyers are taking the trends from mills exhibiting at PV and asking enterprising mills at Texworld to re- produce them less expensively. That poses a threat to the European textile trade. On the one hand, European mills have had to reevaluate their customer bases, with the most successful companies making their focus razor sharp in order to offer value to justify their higher pric- es. While most mills continue to cater to the high end, some have shifted to target mass manufacturers that have begun to relocate a portion of their sourcing and textile buying closer to home to avoid relying too greatly on any one market or supplier. “It’s a real trend,” said Faure. “More companies today don’t want to take the risk of putting too much in the same basket. They want to avoid fi nding themselves in a sticky situation.” On the other hand, many of Texworld’s mills spot opportunity in higher-end products. They are funneling time and capital into creat- ing such wares, which they hope will appeal to a broader audience and differentiate them from the stiff competition. “There is much more concentration on quality now from our ex- hibitors,” said Keukert. “The competition is so great that they have to do it.” China continues to be a major preoccupation, especially for Europeans. Keukert, however, said concerns that arose after the elimination of quotas had “calmed.” She said Chinese manufactur- ers had started to develop more at home and also were concentrat- ing on greater quality. “That means prices will go up,” said Keukert. “China isn’t the golden environment it was.” India is gaining momentum, she added. “The Indian mills are very optimistic and they are gaining confi - dence,” Keukert said. “The government is opening its borders more and this is good for business.” 24 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006

Textiles & Trade

SoftNEW YORK — Expect fabric colorsFocus and decoration to be much softer at Première Vision, Feb. 21-24 at Parc D’Expositions, Nord Villepinte in Paris. As fashion designers move away from overly ornate clothes, textile designers are following suit by concentrating on tonal looks in neutral shades, more organic and rustic styles, as well as botanical prints. While color still plays a role, the palette is more neutral than in past seasons, with shades of ivory, white, rose, beige and navy taking the lead.

Ratti’s silk print. Linton Tweeds’ cotton, silk, polyester and rayon tweed. Bischoff’s silk and polyester jacquard.

Seidra’s linen, rayon, wool and rayon tweed. Schoeller’s nylon and spandex jacquard. WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006 25 WWD.COM

Weisbrod’s cotton and nylon jacquard. Gruppo Colombo’s polyester jacquard.

Saris’ silk print. Henry Bertrand’s silk jacquard. Sophie Hallette’s cotton lace. PHOTOS BY STEPHEN SULLIVAN; FASHION ASSISTANT: COURTNEY KRYSTON; STYLED BY DANIELA KRYSTON; STYLED BY GILBERT COURTNEY ASSISTANT: FASHION STEPHEN SULLIVAN; PHOTOS BY Hurel’s silk jacquard. Marc Rozier’s silk jacquard.

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Cotton and A.n.a’s in-store setup Cotton cargos spandex at J.C. Penney. and a rayon cropped and cotton T. jeans and a halter from a.n.a. PHOTOS BY LARRY TRAVIS PHOTOS BY

Continued from page one enables the home offi ce to view and approve colors on matched to create outfi ts. line has the DNA for major volume. products being manufactured overseas without hav- Denim, knit and woven pants, espadrilles and skirts “This is our largest single women’s launch,” said Ken ing to ship samples to Plano. Also, Penney’s is using its are key components; the collection is priced from $18 to Hicks, president and chief merchandising offi cer, during clout to secure factory time and fabric positions early $80, with a two-piece outfi t generally costing about $50. an interview with the a.n.a team here. “A.n.a has the po- on. After conducting focus groups, Penney’s committed Penney’s says its “smart” prices aren’t necessarily the tential to be as large or larger than Worthington,” one of to launching a.n.a last July, and had it in resort locations lowest, but offer strong value, with bottoms priced $36 the store’s other private label brands that generates an in November and all stores last month. and $30; tops, $36, $24 and $22 and tanks and camis $22 estimated $700 million to $800 million in annual sales. In the past, launches of Penney’s private brands and $18. But there is plenty of competition. A.n.a will most never came out of the gate with chain-wide distribution, Arizona, St. John’s Bay and The J.C. Penney Home directly go up against lower-priced chains such as Old typically being restricted to at most a few hundred loca- Collection are Penney’s largest in-house brands, Navy and New York & Co., and against Wal-Mart’s Metro tions for a season or two before going national. Penney’s each exceeding $1 billion in annual sales. Volume for 7 brand, launched last October, which is priced about 25 Bisou Bisou label, for example, started with 300 stores, Stafford, a key Penney’s private label men’s wear collec- percent below a.n.a, and expects to have sales of $200 and still isn’t in all the retailer’s doors. But with a.n.a’s tion with traditional styling and an emphasis on dress million in the fi rst year. shirts, suits and sport coats, is in the same range as Throughout the retail industry, there’s been a build- Worthington. Penney’s began offering private brands in up of private label, and it’s most noticeable among 1914 and currently offers 25 of them. They account for Penney’s closest rivals. At Federated Department We really felt that we had such about 40 percent of the chain’s total sales. Stores, private brands account for about 20 percent of “ Penney’s private brands are being given sharper volume, excluding May Department Stores, which had a big niche for this business. identities for “lifestyle merchandising” and executives about half the private label percentage and was ac- — Liz Sweney, J.C.” Penney are more confi dent they can deliver relevant fashion at quired by Federated last year. This fall, Federated will “smart” prices. For example, St. John’s Bay, primarily begin to stock former May locations with its private for traditional looks with little embellishment, dabbled brands, such as INC and Charter Club. Kohl’s has an es- casual approach, “We really felt that we had such a big with some modern casual looks that diluted the image timated 15 percent of its sales volume in private label niche for this business,” said Liz Sweney, executive vice and confused customers. “It really didn’t have a lot of and is also seeking more exclusive merchandise. And president of women’s. clarity to it,” Sweney said. Now with the introduction Sears Holdings is building up its in-house design team Executives described a.n.a as “modern, easy to of a.n.a, St. John’s Bay has shed its casual component. and doing more direct importing for its private labels. wear and comfortable” and the casual counterpart “We’re not downplaying St. John’s Bay at all, but by hav- Customers are referring to a.n.a as Ana, though in- to Worthington, which offers modern career clothes. ing a brand that’s true to itself, rather than soup to nuts, side Penney’s a.n.a stands for “a new approach” and A.n.a, which also is available in Penney’s spring-sum- we really bring it to life,” Sweney explained. “Lifestyle refl ects the store’s efforts to hone its broad stable of mer catalogue and on its Web site, takes a more femi- merchandising is somewhat of a buzzword in the indus- private brands. Cycle times are being reduced to four nine approach than the typical Penney’s presentation, try, but we are serious about it,” she added. months from seven, largely through the creation of with detailing and embellishment such as blouses with With a.n.a, Penney’s now promotes four lifestyles in-house design teams, an ongoing process that start- picot, skirts with handkerchief hems, crocheted shrugs, through private brands. A.n.a is displayed in the front of ed about three years ago, and also through the use of tunic-length tanks with lace on top, slim knits belted the store on the left as shoppers enter, and in Penney’s spectrophotometers, a color measuring technology that over wrap skirts and city shorts. Items can be mixed and larger or “A” locations, there are 30 racks, known as WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006 27 WWD.COM w Approach With ‘a.n.a’

four-ways, displaying a.n.a in misses’ sizes and occu- resent more than half the chain’s volume. “There is An in-store pying about 1,500 square feet. Petites and large sizes no target,” for how big a piece of the business private look on a each have six to eight four-ways, for another 800 or so brands should represent. Penney’s executives are mannequin. square feet. The front of the presentation, or about confi dent that 80 percent of its assortment (private 25 percent of the space, will be changed every month, and national brands) is strong and see “wiggle room” with 12 to 16 new pieces fl owing in. Considering in the 20 percent that’s less important and to some a.n.a’s prominent footprint, the brand’s graphics degree expendable. lack drama and appear small, especially in light of “Private brands are a key strength for…Penney, how some of Penney’s other in-house brands, such and a.n.a is by far the largest brand launch we’ve ever as Nicole by Nicole Miller, are presented. However, undertaken right out of the box,” Myron E. Ullman Sweney said change is on the way. “We are adding a 3rd, chairman and chief executive offi cer, said in a huge 40-inch by 60-inch lifestyle collage,” she said. statement. “The line was developed based on clear “The name will be very prominent.” Also, “brand car- feedback from our customers, who wanted a fun line riers” which are fi xtures for graphics, will be placed of fashionable casual and weekend wear. With the on the fl oor. strength of our design team, our worldwide sourcing “The way we are executing is different,” said organization and an industry-leading planning and Sweney. Aside from the fl ow, the photography on allocation infrastructure, we were able to develop graphics and choice of models is different, with the right product and bring it to our customer across models depicted beside sports cars or in country all of our distribution channels in record time, the club settings to emphasize a lifestyle. Whereas re- fastest in J.C. Penney’s history. tailers’ private brands have a reputation for copying “The response from customers has been outstand- designer looks, according to Brian Deleu, lead de- ing,” Ullman added. “By achieving much faster cycle signer for a.n.a, “This is truly a designed brand. We times, we expect to be able to keep fresh new styles are not getting samples from Tommy [Hilfi ger] and on the fl oor at all times.” knocking off.” “Customers told us they were looking for some- Penney’s private brands are situated front and thing beyond basics with more style, more fashion center — to the right of a.n.a at the store entrance detailing and a modern fi t,” Hicks added. “This brand is Worthington, and Nicole by Nicole Miller and the is for the fashion-conscious woman who is self-confi - trendier Bisou Bisou are just behind. The company dent and who keeps her wardrobe updated. She likes is contemplating brand extensions with its private to see outfi ts pulled together in the store so it is easy labels, including an upcoming Miss Bisou collection for her to understand and easy to shop.” for juniors. Asked when Penney’s will decide if a.n.a will be a “Will private brands be the predominance at permanent fi xture in the private brand stable, Hicks Penney’s? Probably not,” Hicks said. However, he did replied, “We really have to give it a couple of years say there could be signifi cant percentage gains, but to know. A brand could start slow and take off, or it most likely not to the point where private brands rep- could start great and slow down.”

A cotton skirt The line’s cotton and rayon and skirt, tank and cotton kimono- cotton and Lycra sleeve blouse. shrug. Cotton and spandex cropped pants, cotton and rayon laced trimmed tunic. 28 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006 WWD.COM REFRIGERATED POETRY: Even the most tempestuous winter storm has a MEMO PAD predictable aftermath: school closings, transit delays, and, more often than not, the literary stylings of Robert D. Warren, Tricomi in Reality TV Talks McFadden. For more than 30 years, McFadden, a senior writer at The New York Times, has been the paper’s go-to guy for page-one NEW YORK — The daily escapades of the duo stories about severe weather. His 1,700-word article in Monday’s behind Warren-Tricomi salons and products may Perricone Lends Hand at NewBeauty paper was a prime example of his oeuvre, blending on-the-scene soon out-lather the Seventies film “Shampoo.” LOS ANGELES — Clinical dermatologist detail (provided by a platoon of Times reporters) and meteorological Hairstylists Edward Tricomi and Joel Warren Nicholas Perricone, widely recognized as a pio- analysis with a large helping of lyricism. are in talks to star in a reality TV series, said neer of doctor-created beauty brands, has joined In McFadden’s words, the Blizzard of ’06 was “a great Crab staff at their eponymous Midtown salon. the editorial advisory board of NewBeauty, a nebula 1,200 miles long” that “transformed straw-drab landscapes On Saturday, a camera crew trailed the styl- recently launched magazine dedicated to cos- into February postcards and brought out skiers, sledders and ists at the 16 West 57th Street salon, hovering metic surgery. other wonderlanders.” Indoors, “it was a day to relax by a window, over clients with microphones, as they fi lmed In an alliance announced here last week, perhaps with a glass of wine and soft jazz on the radio, and take in what is likely the pilot Perricone said his objective the unreal loveliness of winter — the panes frosted like glass from episode. Unsuspecting pa- was to focus on the antiag- Murano, the sills drifted with fl ourishes of lacework, and, out in trons were asked to sign ing arena. “That is a very the storm, dreamscapes of snow blowing down a street, curtains of wavers stipulating that BEAUTY BEAT broad category, but it will snow falling in great sweeps, snow settling like peace in the parks they agreed to appear on encompass everything from and skeletal woodlands.” television, but were not told what network they nutrition to exercise, lifestyle to supplements, as Lovely, indeed — but hardly unique. After all, if you’ve seen one might appear on. well as topical treatments,” he said. “classic nor’easter,” haven’t you seen them all? McFadden declined Apparently, some people were tipped off to The announcement was made as part of a an interview Monday, but a perusal of his clips suggests that his the news: Young socialites and models arrived press conference at Nordstrom in The Grove appreciation of nature’s fury is, if not canned, at least remarkably in droves for Saturday’s taping. shopping mall here. changeless. Some recurring motifs: To ensure the effort is riddled with drama, real- “One of the reasons that the three groups are ● Jan. 23, 2005: “[F]or those so inclined, it was a chance to relax ity TV star of “Blow Out” fame, Brandon Martinez, coming together is because Dr. Perricone was indoors, snowed in with Bach, Brubeck or a good book, cozy behind panes embroidered with frost. For those who ventured out to play Dr. Nicholas — hooded, booted, muffl ed to the eyes — the storm offered glimpses Perricone of nature’s beauty: empty streets turned into white meadows, black- and-white woodlands painted in moonlight, snowfl akes glittering like confections in a bakery — frosted, glazed, powdered, sugary — and in the parks children, romping, padded like armadillos.” ● Jan. 11, 2004: “Everywhere, people were buttoned to the eyes, padded like armadillos, breath smoking at nostrils, faces grimacing from the cold.” ● Dec. 7, 2003: “In Central Park, children frolicked in the drifts with sleds and snowboards…in the frail December light, there were glimpses of subtle beauty: the dark bare Japanese-print branches looped and netted, snowfl akes glittering like jewels in the windy air.” ● Feb. 18, 2003: “The distant scrape of plows and shovels, a child’s shout in the wind, gave the day an old-fashioned feel, Edward Tricomi tumultuous yet private, the stillness of a small town, silent in winter.” and Joel Warren ● Feb. 4, 1996: “In Central Park, the frozen lake, the snow- covered footbridge, were dark overhanging trees, were like a setting on a lacquered box from Japan.” is now a member of the Warren-Tricomi styling one of the founding fathers of physician-based ● Jan. 9, 1996: ‘The storm gave the city a quiet solitude, team and will appear in the pilot. Martinez made skin care, and Nordstrom was one of the fi rst to making it more like a small town, silent in winter.” his small-screen debut on Bravo’s “Blow Out,” follow that trend,” said Adam Sandow, publish- ● Jan. 8, 1996: “Cars lay half-buried like the machines of starring Hollywood hairstylist Jonathan Antin. er and chief executive offi cer of the Boca Raton, some ancient civilization. And with duty cozily snowbound, there Martinez — described on the “Blow Out” Web site Fla.-based magazine. was time to sit at a window with Chopin or Beethoven and watch as “a heterosexual bad boy” — grabbed airtime on Perricone joins other experts in their fi elds, the world turn.” “Blow Out” by bickering with Antin throughout the such as hairstylist Frédéric Fekkai and plastic ● Sept. 18, 1995: “For some, it was a day to curl up with a fi rst season. surgeon Robert Singer, who advise NewBeauty’s novel or listen to Billie Holiday blues by a streaming window.” On this day at Warren-Tricomi, Martinez ban- publishers and editors on content. ● Feb. 12, 1994: “[F]or many it was a day off to ski or skate, tered with a model, who detailed the trials of Sandow’s company, NewBeauty Media Group, to sit at a window and admire the wild beauty of Whittier’s persuading her agent to let her grow out her also is venturing into custom publishing with snowbound American landscape …comic snowy caps on heroic boy-cut hairdo. Nordstrom, covering the various products avail- statues, cars buried in the snow like the machines of some lost “As a model, you’re never supposed to change able at the department store in advertising-driv- civilization.” — Jeff Bercovici your look, you know,” she told the heavily tattooed en supplements. NewBeauty is published three Martinez while cameras rolled. Later, as another times a year, and currently prints 500,000 copies OK DOWNSIZES: OK’s price isn’t the only thing that’s shrinking. The statuesque beauty settled into his chair, Martinez per issue, with an average of 300 pages per issue. fl edgling celebrity weekly is also reducing its trim size, just in time chatted with an assistant about her plans for that Perricone will be on board for issue number four. for a 13-week trial run at a new cover price $1.99, (down from evening. “You going out tonight? We should all go “The antiaging section will look at infl am- $3.29). The issue that goes on newsstands this week will measure out,” he said to her. mation and hormonal therapies, but will really 9- by 11.25-inches — bigger than the 8.5- by 10.5-inches typical Away from the cameras, several stylists grum- break them down into very specifi c core compo- of other weeklies, but smaller than the 12- by 9.5-inches it started bled about the Hollywood invasion, particularly nents of the science, what people are hearing out with. While competitors speculated the move was aimed at those being bumped by hulking cameramen. and thinking about, and where it all fi ts in,” said saving on paper costs, Christian Toksvig, OK’s chief executive offi cer, If Antin’s success is any indication, a TV se- Perricone. said it was necessary to fi x a distribution snafu. “The problem we ries could catapult Warren-Tricomi into a na- — Kavita Daswani were having is that, just purely physically, it was so hard in certain tional brand name. places to get the magazine in the racks,” he said, adding that Like Antin, Warren-Tricomi launched a prod- some retailers had given up trying to shelve OK alongside other uct line to a handful of retailers last year, which weeklies. “Obviously, there is a very small paper savings, but in is currently sold in Bath & Body Works and C.O. YSL Beauté Exec Said Heading to Dior the big scheme of things it’s not something we’re looking at as a Bigelow stores. PARIS — Parfums Christian Dior is said to have savings tool.” Bravo publicist Nora Grudman said the poached a marketing executive from rival Yves As to whether scaling OK down will detract from its NBC-owned network is not affi liated with the Saint Laurent Beauté, WWD has learned. Dior is distinctiveness in a crowded market, he said, “The size reduction is Warren-Tricomi venture and has no plans to expected to name Romain Spitzer as its market- so small I don’t think any reader will notice it.” — J.B. create a “Blow Out” spin-off. Antin, meanwhile, ing director for fragrances, according to sources. is gearing up for his third season of “Blow Out,” He previously had the same title at YSL, and his (NO) ESCAPE FROM NEW YORK: Remember that new magazine about which is slated to premiere March 21. résumé includes stints at Shiseido and Guerlain. culture and travel James Truman is developing for LTB Media? It’s going to be called — drumroll, please — Culture & Travel. LTB went public Monday with its plans for the launch, which include two issues in 2006 and an initial circulation of 60,000. Michael Boodro, formerly of Elle Décor, The New York Times and Vogue, will be the editor, as reported last week by WWD. “It’s both for the art world Boneparth, Johnson to Headline AAFA Awards insider, and also, perhaps, a larger circle around that of people who, through travel, are interested in exploring [culture],” said Truman, NEW YORK — The 28th Annual American Ap- Blake Nordstrom, accepting the Retailer of the who spent 11 years as editorial director of Condé Nast Publications, parel & Footwear Association American Image Year Award on behalf of Nordstrom Inc., and leaving in January 2005. (WWD is a unit of Condé Nast.) “It’s for Awards are set for May 15, honoring fi ve of the Simon Doonan, creative director of Barneys people who are tired of going to the beach.” industry’s best. New York, who will receive the Fashion Maver- Although Truman did preliminary work on an arts-and-culture The event, which takes place at the Grand ick Award. Forty percent of the evening’s pro- title at Condé Nast, LTB was already planning to start Culture & Hyatt Hotel here, will benefi t St. Jude Children’s ceeds will benefi t the hospital. Travel when it hired him to be ceo and managing editor last October, Research Hospital. This year’s honorees are The dinner and dance will take place at 7-10 he said. At that time, Truman said he would be based in London, Peter Boneparth, chairman and chief executive p.m. Throughout the past few years, the AAFA but now, he says, “I seem to be moving back to New York. At the offi cer of Jones Apparel Group, who will receive American Image Awards dinner has collectively moment I’m spending three weeks [a month] in New York and one the Man of the Year Award; Marlo Thomas, who raised close to $3 million for various charities. in London. I haven’t given up on Europe completely. I just found I will accept the 2006 Spirit of a Woman Award for The AAFA chose St. Jude as this year’s charity needed to be here more often than in London.” — J.B. her work on behalf of St. Jude; Betsey Johnson, for its work in fi nding cures for children with who will be honored as Designer of the Year; cancer and other diseases. WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006 29 WWD.COM WTO Hits U.S. on Subsidies, Again China Sweater Snag Resolved By John Zarocostas A three-member WTO appellate body By Evan Clark they took a very literal reading of it, panel rejected a U.S. appeal and upheld and in doing that they made it more GENEVA — The European Union said it earlier panel fi ndings that ruled the U.S. WASHINGTON — Many lightweight narrow than was intended by the nego- would reimpose punitive tariffs of 14 to 17 “still maintains” tax breaks prohibited sweaters made in China have been de- tiators,” the trade offi cial said. percent on U.S. products — including textiles under global norms. The panel found that railed on their way to the selling floor The confusion has cost vendors that and apparel — valued at about $4 billion a despite efforts to repeal the offending mea- this year because of confusion at the have either had goods stopped at the year if Washington fails to withdraw export tax sures, the U.S. still maintains prohibited U.S. border over a trade agreement border or paid to bring in the sweaters breaks found to be illegal under a World Trade subsidies through transitional and grandfa- that took effect Jan. 1. under quota to insure delivery. Organization ruling affirmed on Monday. thering measures and “it continues to fail to The disconnect appears to have Elan Eliau, principal and chief “The U.S. now has three months to act implement fully” the recommendations and been resolved, though not without executive offi cer of New York-based to avoid reimposition of retaliatory mea- ruling to withdraw the illegal subsidies. some extra quota-related costs to im- knit house Joseph A, said he was pay- sures,” said Peter Mandelson, EU Trade EU offi cials countered that the benefi ts porters as well as headaches. Goods ing about 15 percent extra to bring in Commissioner. “The EU will not accept a to U.S. corporations from the transition and are still stuck at the border, but some goods under quota. system of tax benefi ts which gives U.S. ex- grandfathering provisions allow Boeing and should be released soon, government “Until there’s more clarity and until porters, including Boeing, an unfair advan- other firms to benefit from illegal subsi- offi cials and importers said. everything kind of unfolds, that’s your tage against their European competitors. dies. EU offi cials said the measures, which “It really was a Customs [and Border best bet,” he said. “Even though that We are seeking nothing more than the rees- could kick in 60 days after the latest WTO Protection] defi nition problem that we affects the costs of the goods, I am not tablishment of a level playing fi eld.” ruling is adopted, would start with punitive think has been resolved now,” said a raising my prices to the customers and U.S. officials and some members of duties of 14 percent and increase by 1 per- U.S. trade offi cial, speaking on the con- am just absorbing it.” Congress charged that the EU revived the cent each month until they reach 17 percent, dition of anonymity. “[Now] fi ne-gauge Jeffrey Meier, vice president of glob- tax break dispute as retaliation after the or $680 million after a year. knit sweaters that are knit to shape al sourcing at Hampshire Group, said U.S. fi led a WTO dispute against EU subsi- In March 2004, the EU slapped 5 percent come in quota-free.” he is hoping for clarifi cation on the dies to aircraft manufacturer Airbus. duties on many products including textiles, The delays came after a deal defi nition for more adorned sweaters. Sen. Chuck Grassley (R., Iowa), chair- agricultural goods, electronics and steel, and was signed by the U.S. and China in “Since these basic knit-to-shape and man of the infl uential Senate Finance Com- increased them to 14 percent over a nine- November that placed restrictions on linked lightweight sweaters are not mittee, said the Europeans seemed to have month span. The WTO in May 2003 authorized 34 kinds of apparel and textile imports made in [any other] part of the world, “appreciated and accepted” our compli- the EU to impose sanctions after the U.S. had from China. The agreement expires at we have not choice but to go to China,” ance efforts until the U.S. raised the issue failed to repeal the illegal tax breaks. the end of 2008. said Meier. “Why wouldn’t we also at of Airbus subsidies. Both the Foreign Sales Corporation Act Excluded from the restrictions, or the same time include enhancements “Their blatant linkage of WTO disputes and its successor, the Extra Territorial Income quotas, were knit-to-shape sweaters to these basic sweaters when the en- is a dangerous precedent,” he said. Act, granted income tax rebates to U.S. export- that met specific technical require- hancements, such as hand-crochet A spokeswoman for U.S. Trade Repre- ers. However, the EU suspended the sanctions ments, such as a stitch count of 10 to 18 trims, are also only made in China. If sentative Rob Portman said, “It’s a serious on Jan. 1, 2005, to challenge the revised U.S. stitches every 2 centimeters. U.S. Customs continues to reject the concern and we will continue to urge them not law — the American Jobs Creation Act — that “This fairly narrow defi nition was trim-enhanced sweaters, it will create to reimpose sanctions. Prolonging the dispute also was found in breach by a WTO panel in negotiated into it [the deal] and then a lot of problems in the market and a is not helpful to fostering trade relations.” September 2004 and upheld Monday. when Customs got their hands on it lot of further delays.”

1906- 2006 100 Years OF FASHION

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Seeking a detail oriented individual, who’s responsibilities will include communication w/overseas office & factories, production time lines, order entry, measure garments, tech SHANGHAI MFR. pckgs, grading specs, follow Exp’d in better / designer evening wear. up on samples, fabric & trim. Samples and productions of any styles. Must be very organized and Call Mr. Ping at (212) 980-3515 have ability to multi-task & able to work under pressure. Please email resume w/sal history assistant [email protected] PRODUCTION ASSIST. Design DIRECTOR/$$ DESIGN SALES ASSISTANT CELEBRITY’s Jr. Collection Busy Public Women’s Sportswear Firm PATTERN/SAMPLES Leading moderate sportswear company Seeks Energetic Person w/ Great Attitude, located in New York City, seeks assistant Great oppty. lead team of designers TECHNICAL DESIGN Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast ADMIN ASSIST $8-10 HOUR and put your stamp on this mjr. celeb- Strong Communication Skills Detail for sales team. The responsibilities of ASSISTANT Oriented, Team Player. Resp Include: work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Full Time Only, General Office Duties, this position include: writing sales rity’s new licensed Jr. sportswear Energetic, Excellent English. Computer collection. Req: current expr. as a Jr. Established private label company Worldwide Production, Tracking Daily orders, order tracking for accounts, seeks individual with 2 - 4 yrs experi- E-mails/Faxes, Understanding of Garment PATTERNS, SAMPLES, A+. 34th St & 7th Avenue Location. compiling selling reports, filing, making sportswear des. dir w/apparel selling Call Todd 212-947-3400 on Macy’s 4th. floor, MAC knowl. ence. Must have strong knowledge of Construction/Lab Testing. Heavy sample requests. To be considered specs, fit evaluation, construction and Computer Work (Excel/Word) and Able PRODUCTIONS you must be highly organized, detail E-mail resume: [email protected] (Fax)917-591-2521 (Tel)917-945-0418 grading. Candidate must be detailed to Handle Multi Tasks. Retail Links a Plus All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Admin Since 1967 oriented, able to multi task, good follow Major Benefits, Salary Commensurate Call Sherry 212-719-0622. oriented and a team player who is able W-I-N-S-T-O-N up skills and knowledge of Excel a to work with customer tech depart- With Exp. FAX Resume: MUST. We offer a great work environ- ments as well as overseas offices. Attn: Carmella PATTERNS, SAMPLES, APPAREL STAFFING ment with opportunities for growth Design Director Knowledge of Excel, Illustrator, and 212-556-5462 DESIGN * SALES * MERCH plus competitive salary and benefits. Seeking design directors, men’s and Freeboarders a MUST. PRODUCTIONS ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION E-mail resumes to: women’s, to guide the evolution of a Please send resume & salary Full service shop to the trade. [email protected]. venerable European designer brand requirements to : (212) 302-1856 or Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Production Asst/Coord based in Japan. Position requires 2 visits email: [email protected] Private Label Children’s wear importer per season to Tokyo, 1 per season to APPAREL JOBS seeks detailed & exp’d asst to commu- Pier 22 Designs Europe. Product is approximately 100 nicate w/overseas factories. Knowledge 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)Technicals garment sketches plus seasonal concept Full service CAD/Design Studio 3)Designers-assoc-assist.boy-girl-YG men-Jr CAD ARTIST - Freelance of CTL, MTL lab testing requirements. 718.428.8828 [email protected] per season. Please submit resumes Executive Assistant Excel, Word, AS400 a must. Please fax Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) Midtown Apparel Co. seeks a FREE- Entry level position for fast paced con- LANCE CAD artist to work in-house. with one page of examples to: resume to: 212-868-3167 Attn: Tess [email protected] temporary showroom. Must be respon- Main focus will be Children’s Sportswear; sible, organized & computer literate. A/R Chargeback Mgr. creating allover prints, screenprint Fax resume to 212-840-5047 Reconcile, review, & resolve c/b issues graphics, etc. Must be exp’d. in Illustrator/ Designer $100-140K. Current exp in Production Asst w/ major retailers. Knowl. of factoring, Photoshop on the MAC. To set up an bras. Creative plus patternmaking Major Outerwear Apparel Mfr. based logistics and shipping issues. Strong interview, E-mail: [email protected] skills required. Midtown growing Co. out of Morris County, NJ seeks focused, computer and communication skills. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency FABRIC BUYER R&D $110K flexible and motivated self-starter. Three yrs. exp req. E-mail stating sal Better Bridge Couture Designer Candidate must have excellent commu- req. to: [email protected] [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 nication skills and proficiency in MS Data Entry/Computer DESIGNER-4+ yrs doing a Newborn/ Outlook, Word, & Excel. Consider NYC Garment Co. seeks exp’d. individual Inf/Todd Girls/Boys sportswear line/ entry-level college graduate. Excellent ASSISTANT DESIGNER w/strong knowledge of Allocating, Picking, line devel/know Illus/Photo. $80-100K benefits with op pty for growth. Pls fax Fast paced women’s private label and EDI. Fax resume to: 516-829-7881 Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 Pattern Maker resume: Attn: Theresa 973-328-8681 sportswear company seeks a 3+ year For 1st pattern needed 3-5 years casual experienced, organized, detail oriented, Designer- Girls & Boys experience preferred. Pls fax resume to: 212-221-3721 and proficient in Illustrator - Photoshop- DESIGN Well est’d & fast growing childrens co. Excel team player to assist in all Production Coordinator seeks highly qualified individual to Ladies & Children’s sleepwear co. aspects of design. Please fax resume to: Associate Designer head our design dept. must be exp’d in (212) 868 - 2801 seeks experienced, highly organized, Junior panty and daywear co. seeks all phases of design including knowl- Planner/Coordinator detail-oriented individual. Garment talented Associate Designer. Should edge of specs. Photoshop & Illustrator Must have 2-3 years exp, be detail knowledge & computer proficiency a have 2+ yrs. of design experience in a must. Great opportunity. oriented & organized. Computer profi- must. Must be bilingual both Korean the industry. Must be a self starter, Fax resume to: 212-302-2669 cient with strong analytical skills & English. E-mail resume to: detail oriented, have strong knowledge necessary. MUST KNOW EDI replen- [email protected] of garment construction and spec. ishment. Pls fax resume: 212-221-8135 or Fax: 212-869-3938 CAD experience also required. DESIGNER Please fax resume to: (212) 679-4260 Private label missy apparel co. seeks designer to work w/ design director on major accounts. Responsibilities include: PR Account Executive Production Manager specs, client presentation / follow-up, 2+ yrs exp. in fashion req. Must have Progressive NY based Missy Sptswr fabric sourcing, sample coord., & daily exceptional interpersonal, organizational, Co seeks experienced, self motivated communication w/ overseas prod’n team. communication skills. E-mail resume: person to be in charge of domestic Min. 5 yrs. exp. in design - import & [email protected] or fax: 212-840-8849. production. Must have knowledge of private label background necessary. fabric and garment construction. Also Must be proficient in Excel & Word, must be able to trouble shoot all CAD exp. a plus. Only organized self problems related to gmt sewing, be starters need apply -- no divas! Pls. fax PRODUCT DEVEL $60-65K able to work under pressure and ship a resume & cover letter to (212) 868-3659 Knits/Wovens. Private Label Mfr quality gmt on time. Must be experi- [email protected] 212-947-3400 enced in both woven and knits. Please send resumes to: Box#M 1004 c/o Fairchild Classified Production Assistant 750 Third Avenue, 5th Fl Major Textile Importer seeks self- New York, NY 10017 motivated, experienced person to assist in all stages of textile production. Responsibilities include daily follow-up Quality Control / Knits w/ overseas, sourcing, price negotiations, L.I.C. area. Must have extensive knowl. liaison between sales and production of knit garment construction. Ability Must be detail-oriented with excellent to do quality & spec audits. 5 years exp communication & organizational skills. a must. Good salary & benefits. Please fax resume to: 212-704-0938 Please fax resume to 212-947-1246 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2006 31 Obituary WWD.COM California Mart’s Sidney L. Morse

By Adam Tschorn in 1962. 30 fi lms and was serving as president of Under Sidney Morse’s three-decade movie investment company Red Cloud LOS ANGELES — Sidney L. Morse, who stewardship as managing partner, the Films Inc. served as general manager of the California family-owned building became an impor- “We are deeply saddened to hear of the Mart for 30 years, died of complications tant anchor of the Los Angeles apparel passing of Sidney Morse,” said California from leukemia on Feb. 1 at The Johns industry. Market Center general manager John Kim. Hopkins Hospital in Baltimore. He was 71. But the fallout from a California “Sidney and his family created a building A native of New York City, Morse recession and softening of the real es- that has withstood the test of time as a moved with his parents to Los Angeles tate market adversely affected rents landmark of the apparel industry. On be- as a teenager, where he attended Los at the 1.9 million-square-foot trade half of everyone at the California Market Angeles High School and earned an asso- mart, which failed to make mortgage Center, we offer Sidney’s family our most ciate of arts degree in animal husbandry payments on $265 million; in 1994, the heartfelt condolences.” from Sierra College. Equitable Life Assurance Society as- Morse is survived by his wife, Faye, Early in his career, he worked as sumed ownership of the building from four children from a previous marriage an executive at Belmar Builders and the Morse family. Sidney Morse then and 10 grandchildren. California Lingerie Inc. before joining embarked on the second phase of his In lieu of fl owers, the family asked his father, Barney, and uncle, Harvey, career, which included investing in real that donations be made to the Arizona who cofounded the California Mart, estate and motion pictures. He moved Cancer Centre Director’s Circle, 1515 which is now known as the California to Tucson, Ariz., in 1995 and at the time North Campbell Avenue, P.O. Box 245013, Market Center, in downtown Los Angeles of his death had invested in more than Tucson, Ariz. 85724.

ABC CARPET & HOME Seeking exp’d. GENERAL MERCHANDISE MANAGER who shares our passion for beauty & growth. As our business con- Account Executive tinues to grow we require visionary leadership to support & di- Major sweater & knit co seeks an Acct Exec w/ strong substantial volume for SALES MANAGER rect the multifaceted and unique position of our home furnish- JR & Contemporary sales in mass ings merchandising group. Proven skill in the analytical, sys- Southpole/Lot29 based in Fort Lee, NJ is seeking merchandise moderate and budget Exciting new high grade women’s enthusiastic & qualified individuals to join our team. volume business. Lucrative package shoe line seeks seasoned exp’d tems and organizational needs of a retail business are of par- commensurate with extensive back- amount importance. A strong candidate will have a solid Fashion Designer ground. Fax resume to: 212-768-3844 motivated Manager to grow line. track record as a GMM with a min. of 10 years in home fur- Technical Designer San Francisco based. 7-10 yrs. nishings (ready-to-wear acceptable) buying, negotiation & Fashion Merchandiser footwear exp. and market management.A motivational management style. Enthusiasm knowledge required. Graphic Designer Fax resume to: (415) 956-6098 for the road (domestic & international). An eye for the authen- Production Coordinator CHILDREN’S APPAREL JUNIOR tic, indigenous & sustainable & the desire to break new Sales Manager & Key Account Executive ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVE- ground in retail. Please email confidential resumes to: Operation SHOWROOM LOCATION David Lauber, CFO: [email protected] The largest infant’s clothing manufac- SALES Competitive salary, medical, dental, and turer in the world. Started in NYC over Seeking an exp’d. Salesperson w/contacts 50 years ago, we specialize in newborn, in Sweaters and Cut & Sew Knits. Fax life insurance, 401K and etc. infant and toddler boys and girls appa- resume to Howard at: 212-221-3480 rel, as well as girls 4-6x and boys 4-7 Must be authorized to work in USA. sizes. We are seeking a motivated children’s Junior Account Representa- Website Manager Fax: (917) 591-8810 email: [email protected] tive for our midtown showroom loca- High-profile shoe and Accessories with its corporate HQ located tion. This candidate will be responsi- SHOWROOM SALES ble for maintaining new and existing Come join us "BY THE SEA" for in Rye, NY seeks motivated individual to run its website sales accounts. This individual should fun and travel. Designer swimwear. PLAZATOO.COM. Responsibilities include merchandising, have some retail and/or wholesale experi- Sales exp. a must. Outgoing personality. DESIGN ASSISTANT Computer literate a must. sales analysis and customer service. Ideal candidate will be PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT ence. This individual should be profes- detail oriented with excellent oral and written communica- sional, organized, detail-oriented, and Please fax resume to: (212) 563-7072 Manhattan-based manufacturer able to multi-task across a wide spec- tion skills and have PRIOR experience within retail; website DESIGNER trum of duties. Candidates must have management a must. Excellent salary and benefits. of Men’s Quality Outerwear excellent written, verbal, and Women’s Outerwear is looking for an energetic telephone communication skills. Excellent Fax or email resume to: salary & benefits. Please e-mail your Seeking a motivated and detailed individual to bring talent and 914-937-6796 OR EMAIL TO [email protected] creation to the private-label resume to [email protected] or Designer to join our dynamic team. fax your resume to (212) 947-2039. world of better men’s tailored No telephone calls please. EOE Must have a keen fashion sense, as well as: outerwear. The individual RETAIL ANALYST needs to have a keen eye for Pololeathergoods, a licensee for Polo / MIA Shoes, Inc. EMMELLE Ralph Lauren and a division of •Minimum 5 years experience color matching, experience in SALESPERSON FT/PT Kellwood, is seeking to fill a Retail GREAT OPPORTUNITY!! •Photoshop/Illustrator literate sourcing trims, knowledge of Madison Avenue Designer Boutique Analyst Position. The essential respon- PDM, Illustrator, & Photoshop, seeks Sales Associate with a minimum sibilities of this position include: Order Processing / •PDM package prep of (3) years experience. Must be assortment planning, working closely •Overseas resource/flat sketch/ and enjoy the challenge of highly motivated and professional. Customer Service working directly with customers. Sales Executive with sales team to analyze retail presentations Please call: (212) 570-6559 or results, managing wholesale inventory, Miami Co. is seeking Experience in sourcing woolen Must be a dynamic, energetic and Fax resume to: (212) 249-1427 plan/monitor wholesale business with •Supervise sample room fabrics and a background in dedicated sales professional with expe- management and manage basic re- experienced people for our rience in wholesale. Must have plenishment programs. Fax resume to: 631-514-3131 men’s clothing & outerwear a relationships with A+ retailers. Guide Customer Service Dept. plus. Please fax resume with customers in selection and merchan- Qualified candidates must have ana- Shoe Industry knowledge Division of the dising of products. Good follow up lytical skills and be proficient in G-III Apparel Group, Ltd. salary requirements to SAB: skills required as well as proven track Excel. We are looking for candidates with inside sales exp a record of growth in product category. who have an understanding of retail 610-834-1147. EOE plus! AS400/Computer. We will be setting up interviews to be math and financial plans from dept. held during the Coterie. stores, and the ability to handle rapidly changing organizational issues and E-mail resume to: SPEC TECHNICIAN Technical Designer Please email resume to time sensitive requirements. Retail [email protected] Knitwear Importer located in So. Central Exp. in Wovens, Collection Line. [email protected] or background a plus. NJ seeks person w/min 2-3 yrs Exp Phone (212)302-0216 or Fax (212)302-1161 fax to 310.945.5253. or Fax: 305-455-2636 APPLY TODAY! working with Men’s/Boys/Girls knitwear. Send resume with cover letter and Must have complete understanding of salary requirements to: garment construction. Responsibilities TECHNICAL DESIGNER SALES MANAGER/$$$ SALES REPS [email protected] include: specing/grading/fitting/ approval CELEBRITY’S JR. COLLECTION Jr. contemporary premium jeans mfr. of preproduction & production samples, Jr Knits/CAD/Bi-lingual Chinese $50K One of the most popular celebrities has [email protected] looking for road reps in all territories. communicating with overseas factories. a new line licensed branded sportswear Must have existing relationships with Samplemaker $700-$750 Wk Outstanding computer skills a must. line which needs a sales pro. You must department and specialty stores. For BETTER RUNWAY DESIGNER [email protected] F:732-280-6190 have recent JR. apparel expr. selling to SENIOR APPAREL WOVEN/KNIT Textile Print+Color Stylist $60-70K consideration please fax resumes to: Call Kwan 212-947-3400 Jessilyn Macy’s 4th. fl. type accounts. 212-398-7950 att: Paul DESIGNER CHILDRENSWEAR current exp in computer follow-up w/ E-mail resume: [email protected] A leading childrens wear manufacturer SPORTSWEAR & DRESS Mills on all tech packages. Strong tech (Fax)917-591-2521 (Tel)917-945-0418 SAMPLEMAKER is seeking a senior girls woven/knit ap- MFR./IMPORTER • TWO POSITIONS: knowledge of fabrics, prints, lab dips, Well estb’d Couture Co. seeks highly skilled parel designer. Experience with age 1. TECH DESIGNER yarn dyes, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy exp’d sewers/tailors for a stable/secure ranges including newborn, infant, tod- 2. PRODUCTION COORDINATOR position. Knowledge of cutting a plus. dler & 4-6x. Knowledge of Illustrator & Please Fax or E-mail all resumes to: Oppty for growth. Please call 212-869-2296 Photoshop programs. This candidate (212) 869-1525 will be responsible for the product de- [email protected] Trainer/Quality Control signing, sketching, conduct fit sessions To train blind workers to make men’s Secretary to CEO - and issuing final approval for sample fit. military / air force uniforms. Will do Excellent salary & benefits. If you SUPERVISOR Q.C. inspecting / records. Must be an Garment Importer have all of the qualifications noted 2nd shift - 4-12 PM - sewing - men’s exp’d trainer and speak English fluent- 2 to 3 years of Garment experience above, Please e-mail your resume to: military / air force uniforms. Exp’d, ref ly. Ref req’d. B’klyn location. Great Fluent English and Mandarin A must [email protected]. req’d. B’klyn location. Great benefits benefits and salary. EOE. Fax resume 1-800-289-0273 Fax to 212 869 8961 No telephone calls please. EOE and salary. EOE. Fax resume to: to: (718) 853-8805 Attn: Mr. Leo Santos. (718) 853-8805 Attn: Mr. Leo Santos