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JOURNEY BEYOND “We can see them [the pigs] from the kitchen – I know that BREAKING sounds a bit gruesome – but they get looked after so well, they’re the healthiest and NEW happiest pigs I’ve ever seen.” For Head Chef and part owner Evan Hayter, paddock to plate isn’t a fad – it’s a mindset. The winery uses solar power, rainwater and a wood oven in the kitchen. Many ingredients GROUND are grown on-site; a practice that is becoming less of a hobby and more of a belief system for the small team. And we’re not just talking about a simple veggie patch. “We farm trout in the winter, marron in the dams, and WORDS Victoria Johnson pigs, which were originally brought in to regenerate the PICTURES Tim Campbell property. They’re able to dig up and eat weeds like arum lilies, which were causing a lot of damage. Naturally, pigs are delicious, so they made their way onto the menu!” Pork now features extensively on Hayter’s menu. He makes his own smallgoods and even cites it as his favourite ingredient to cook with. “We can see them [the pigs] from the kitchen – I know When one thinks of the Margaret River wine region, the that sounds a bit gruesome – but they get looked after so well, Recently cited by Gourmet Traveller as ‘Margaret big players spring to mind – Leeuwin Estate, Vasse Felix, they’re the healthiest and happiest pigs I’ve ever seen.” River’s most influential chef’, Evan Hayter traded Voyager Estate – all essential dining stops on any trip to this “We grow our veggies on a patch of land the pigs had already gourmet corner of Western Australia. The lesser-known worked over - it’s probably half an acre’s worth. We’ve fenced the bright lights of a Michelin-starred international Arimia Estate, however, is rapidly rising to the top of any it off and built up garden beds. Right now, we’ve got tomatoes, restaurant career for a tiny winery restaurant in astute foodie’s south-west agenda. corn, watermelon, chilli, capsicums, eggplant… the next step is It’s tucked away down a dirt road off the main tourist hiring a full-time gardener and taking it to the next level.” Margaret River. We chewed the fat with him over how trail, so you won’t exactly stumble across it. Do your home- The vines are managed using organic and biodynamic he’s blazing a trail when it comes to sustainability; work though, and you’ll find this small winery restaurant principles, and all the wine is made using fruit sourced from is punching well above its weight, and not just because the the property. There are 200 olive trees, fruit trees and even and not just because it’s trending on Instagram. food is delicious. beehives on-site. 44 45 BREAKING NEW GROUND “We’ve forgotten what beef tastes like. But a sirloin from a five-year-old animal is completely different. And the whole grain fed versus grass fed issue is irrelevant when it gets to an animal that’s been aged properly.” “The whole place just makes sense, it all works,” Hayter says. “The approach I’ve taken with meat is to only use whole The menu at Arimia changes every second month, which animals. If I want beef on the menu, I buy a whole cow. It Hayter believes is key to serving up the best possible dining works out cheaper, if you’re smart about it – the challenge is I experience. have to change my menu a lot. “It’s better for everyone if we’re all producing seasonal “Beef from the shop is from animals as young as nine menus. I like my ingredients to tell me what I’m cooking, not months old. I don’t believe that a cow develops much flavour the other way around. in that time – we’ve forgotten what beef tastes like. But a “I’ve got great relationships with local suppliers; I get sirloin from a five-year-old animal is completely different. them to dictate what I can have, rather than calling up and And the whole grain fed versus grass fed issue is irrelevant ordering whatever I want, whenever I want it. That would when it gets to an animal that’s been aged properly.” be easier, but I don’t believe it’s the right thing to do because What sets Hayter apart from the masses though is his you end up with non-seasonal produce. I see my job as taking generosity of spirit. There’s an air of confidence about him, the best of what’s available and creating a dish out of that.” minus that notorious chef-like arrogance. What he brings to As part owner of the Estate, Hayter takes his job serious- the table is unique, and consequently he views neighbour- ly. Most mornings, he’s out the door at first light, taking the ing businesses as friends, not competitors. Hayter willingly scenic 30-minute drive up Caves Road - a dream commute shares his knowledge for the love of food. for city slickers. “A lot of local chefs have said they respect what I do, which “I walk into the kitchen and turn everything on, put a pile is really humbling. I’ve put a lot of chefs onto the suppliers of sticks into the wood oven, then go for a walk around the I use, which most chefs wouldn’t do. I believe that we can’t property and collect some more sticks. The team and I then move forward without the support of everyone around us.” feed the pigs, and in winter we feed the trout. The chefs like In his home kitchen, Hayter keeps it simple. it, it’s good for my team.” “It’s usually hand-made pasta and a couple of good It’s clearly the diversity of the job that keeps Hayter’s bottles of wine.” flame alight, and he attributes this to his business partner And when quizzed on what he’s drinking right now, his Ann Spencer. response is unsurprisingly earthy. “She has unwavering support for what I do. You can’t find “There’s a local French dude named Francois; his label is that in hospitality – I’m so lucky.” Revelation Wines. He’s producing this natural chardonnay… Hayter’s most recent passion project is his sourdough. he gave me a bottle, and it was awesome. It was a little bit “It [the sourdough] changes that little bit every day, stinky, it was just fun. I’m pretty excited about it.” from the way you prove it to how long you prove it for, and So, what’s next on the cards for Hayter? the timber you use in the oven – we use a mixture of jarrah, “Pruning of the olive trees, then the vineyard, and then marri and karri, and they all have different qualities in the it’s firebreaks again. There’s 135 acres on the property to way they burn. maintain, and we all pitch in.” “We serve it with vegan aioli made from biodynamic Longer term, Hayter’s dream is to be entirely self-suffi- garlic which we confit; we then purée that with a tofu that we cient, and to share Arimia’s story with its diners. make from soybeans. Served with a little bit of estate olive “I want to get a few more animals, grow everything oil, it’s so cool.” on-site. Farm tours will hopefully become part of the When asked his thoughts on nose-to-tail cooking, it’s a experience – I’d like to step things up – become a destination no-brainer. restaurant. That’s where we want to be.” 46 47.

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