ALBERT TAUBMAN DIES REMEMBERING CARLOS FALCHI AND DR. FREDRIC BRANDT WERE REMEMBERED AT SEPARATE MEMORIAL HOLLYWOOD HIGH SERVICES. PAGE 6 BURBERRY HEADED TO THE GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY FOR A SHOW AND PARTY. PAGE 10 MALL PIONEER AND DEVELOPER WAS 91. PAGE 7

U.S., CHINA PRESSURE XXXXXX Alibaba’s Challenge: Xxx Xxx Xxx Fighting Counterfeits Xxx Xxx Xxx Xxx

By LARA FARRAR By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET

BEIJING — As Alibaba faces continued criticism MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as from regulators in China and the United States over resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut its business practices, analysts say it could be chal- perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fugiantur lenging for the e-commerce giant to overcome some modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim volendus, sinus problems, particularly what appears to be an endem- eaquas dolorep tatatent qui que sandelendis quis aut MONDAY, APRIL 20, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ic presence of counterfeits and gray-market products voluptur? on its consumer-to-consumer marketplace platform, Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam num exp- WWD labo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet autat. Taobao.com. The platform is renowned among Chinese shop- Antiur, nobit faceptat. pers for its vast array of goods for sale, ranging from Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae nusci pets to fake college diplomas and counterfeits, or im solente molorep eribus des corpora tibus, odis et very close replicas, of fashion brands. dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo int adigend uciendus “It is very hard to eradicate the problem,” John aperita consequam utatur, quiani conectiam ut as Fang, an analyst with the Shanghai-based China intionsequas et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. Market Research Group, said, adding that heightened Tem voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut eicae scrutiny could be related to China’s slowing economy, lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non re cone con which expanded 7 percent year-on-year on the fi rst cumquasped et quis del mo dellupt ataerum faccae quarter, the slowest growth in six years. In March, re- repudae ne voluptat la cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut tail sales rose at the slowest pace in nearly a decade. et atur asitisimi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta “The brands are hurting,” Fang said. “It is very dolesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos volu- hard to do business in China right now, so if the fake pis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis volorporem products are out there, it is making business even imporro conse con ratquiasse vellum re et et optate more diffi cult.” con consequuntio doluptiam eata digenis aut offi c to Torsten Stocker, greater China partner at A.T. inctur sam re re dolupta tessin con pe corio dolorum Kearney in Hong Kong, said it will be “diffi cult” for aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem even- Alibaba to eradicate goods on Taobao that are blatant dae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui apiendam rere- counterfeits or products that brands see as knockoffs, hen dendandi doluptur maiorrovid eum es quid eturi and thus, potentially undermining their legitimate tem re, incipsa nisquiam quatenimet quiditatem im- sales channels to mainland shoppers. “If you take 5,000 porrovid ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blant eos storefronts down that sell these products, they will just dolupti atistia cus, aborpore landio to blautet as aut pop up under a different name or company again,” he offi cipsam earciaes excearum, qui te offi cilicit est aut said. “Getting to the actual producers is not easy.” id mil min ea pore mil iumque pro vit offi cab il en- Last week, at an American Apparel & Footwear dantotatum verovid mod et rat.Soloremquiam et pro Association conference in New York, the U.S. Trade que pelique plibus et, similiqui ius essi re arum et Representative’s offi ce joined in on a chorus of criti- od mo earum aliquat latur, offi c tem faciend itatend cism that has been ongoing for months against Alibaba, esequatur molene landit endam solor sene vitaqua ti- Imitation which had a record-breaking initial public offering in asitaquunt faccuptur sum qui od untorum facitiis do- lessita dolupta temporepe platect enistiam con conse- SEE PAGE 9 ditae. Itatum et aut ant enim acillor am eos esectas et explam repudae. Nequam, omniminum faceruptatas Game Kohl’s Signs Thakoon Using a faux-marble pattern on his polished calfskin bag for For One-off Collection Charlotte Olympia and a burst of Xxxxxx Xxxxxx stars on his patent-leather bag for By LISA LOCKWOOD By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET Roger Vivier, the labels’ creative THAKOON PANICHGUL IS next up in Kohl’s MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as director, Bruno Frisoni, revealed his Department Store’s seventh installment of its resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut lighthearted side for fall. For more DesigNation limited-edition collection. perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fugiantur The misses’ apparel collection and accessories modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim volendus, sinus fun accessories with a novelty spin, will be inspired by Panichgul’s trip to London and eaquas dolorep tatatent qui que sandelendis quis aut see pages 4 and 5. will be available exclusively at Kohl’s and kohls.com voluptur? beginning this fall. Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam num exp- “DesigNation is built to inspire our customers with labo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet autat. designs shaped by some of the world’s most popular Antiur, nobit faceptat. destinations, and Thakoon Panichgul is the perfect Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae nusci person to bring London to life as he is known for im solente molorep eribus des corpora tibus, odis et showcasing distinct global infl uences through his col- dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo int adigend uciendus lections,” said Nancy Feldman, Kohl’s executive vice aperita consequam utatur, quiani conectiam ut as president of women’s apparel. intionsequas et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. Panichgul recently celebrated his brand’s 10th an- Tem voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut eicae niversary in London. For Kohl’s, he will translate his lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non re cone con affi nity for the British capital’s character, culture and cumquasped et quis del mo dellupt ataerum faccae history to unusual prints and patterns for shirts, sweat- repudae ne voluptat la cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut ers, knit tops, dresses and bottoms, all under $200. et atur asitisimi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta “The DesigNation collection allows me to explore dolesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos volu- London, a city I love so much, in depth, and to bring pis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis volorporem my imprint and take on its captivating culture to imporro conse con ratquiasse vellum re et et optate women everywhere,” the designer said. con consequuntio doluptiam eata digenis aut offi c Asked what prompted him to do a collaboration with to inctur sam re re dolupta tessin con pe corio do- Kohl’s, he told WWD, “Kohl’s has established a tradi- lorum aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem tion of working with brands to create accessible fashion evendae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui apiendam to women — the title they have given the DesigNation rerehen dendandi doluptur maiorrovid eum es quid initiative is completely apropos. The opportunity to eturi tem re, incipsa nisquiam quatenimet quiditatem contribute to this unique platform, and tie it to London imporrovid ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blan was too good to pass up, and so much fun.” He said he PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON SEE PAGE 8 SEE PAGE XX 2 WWD MONDAY, APRIL 20, 2015 WWD.COM

Improving Fire Safety in Bangladesh THE BRIEFING BOX systems, where the U.S. and Europe public water sys- By MAYU SAINI tems can usually supply ample water to support them. IN TODAY’S WWD Similarly, for fi re alarms, lighting and other ALMOST TWO YEARS after Rana Plaza, the commit- emergency equipment, there is a steady supply of ment to factory safety in Bangladesh has not lost steam. electricity that is usually available. On the contrary, it seems to be picking up mo- “In most of the Bangladesh factories, the water Models at the opening of Burberry’s Rodeo Drive fl agship. mentum under the direction of Mark Chubb, a fi re- supply required for fi re protection and electrical sys- For more see page 10 and WWD.com. safety expert who moved to Dhaka from Seattle tems are both provided on site,” Chubb said. “There to take up a new position as safety offi cer for the are large cisterns, there are generators, and that kind Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety. of equipment introduces a level of complexity again A certifi ed chief fi re offi cer who has dealt with that is somewhat unique to Bangladesh.” situations in fi re safety and emergency manage- Interpreting regulatory framework into a practi- ment for more than three decades, Chubb is expect- cal situation is not new to Chubb, who spent con- ed to bring greater strength to the process of ensur- siderable time in the early part of his career devel- ing factory safety. Efforts for worker and building oping building codes in the U.S. and helping local safety have been an important focus in Bangladesh offi cials interpret and apply them consistently. after the collapse of Rana Plaza on April 24, 2013, “In an average eight-hour day, I would spend six which cost 1,133 workers their lives. hours a day on the phone explaining regulations,” The Alliance represents a group of North American he said. “So it’s not at all unusual for those regu- apparel brands and retailers, including Gap Inc., J.C. latory requirements to be diffi cult to interpret and Penney Co., Kohl’s Corp., Target Corp., VF Corp. and apply on a regular basis. In some ways, what we’re Wal-Mart Stores Inc. Bangladesh is the second-largest seeing in Bangladesh is very typical. But we just exporter of apparel in the world, after China, with ex- didn’t encounter the urban intensity we have in JONES KATIE PHOTO BY ports of $24.5 billion in the sector last year. Dhaka and Chittagong.” Chubb has a clear view of the work ahead. The urban intensity can change the same rules, “I have characterized the challenges I have seen and call for more ingenuity in application and in Analysts say it could be challenging for Alibaba to overcome here into two buckets, if you will,” he said. “One an emergency. what appears to be an endemic presence of counterfeits and bucket are challenges that are unique to or endem- “In the end, we are trying to apply standards gray-market products on Taobao.com. PAGE 1 ic to Bangladesh, and to that end they may be typi- that were developed elsewhere in the world to situ- cal of any developing country.” ations that are very different because of the speed Thakoon Panichgul is next up in Kohl’s seventh installment He explained that the other bucket involved as- with which Dhaka and Bangladesh have developed, of its DesignNation limited-edition collection, with a misses’ pects more endemic to fi re and building safety in and the density of urban population,” he said. apparel and accessories line. PAGE 1 general, including the developed world. Worker training continues to be an important “These are very familiar problems for people agenda item. the late Fredric Brandt best assembled in the who work with building codes and work with engi- “One of my objectives is to begin working with Those who knew neering problems in the United states or anywhere partners with civil defence and other government Alice Tully Hall at Lincoln Center on Thursday night to pay their in Europe,” Chubb said. agencies to help identify how we can help support respects to the celebrity dermatologist. PAGE 6 In the first basket — factors special to their training needs and try to build some institu- Bangladesh — are issues such as poor enforcement tions in the country that will enable us to transfer In tribute to the exuberant life that Carlos Falchi led, family of building-safety standards in past years resulting lessons from the remediation program to those agen- and friends of the designer gathered at Urban Zen here in unfortunate conditions for many buildings, many cies where they can carry on successfully,” he said. Thursday night to celebrate his memory. PAGE 6 of which are in need of attention, and the limits The worker training will be expanded along with that the existing infrastructure imposes. an assessment of how well earlier training interven- Poppy Delevingne is about to undertake a global fragrance “This also limits where we can get,” Chubb said. tions have worked. Chubb observed that this would mission for Jo Malone London as the British brand’s fi rst “The infrastructure in Bangladesh will only sup- probably be extended to training in other sectors to ambassador, or Jo Malone London Girl. PAGE 8 port certain kinds of intervention or intervention ensure the sustainability of the remediation efforts. that can only take things to a certain level because In Bangladesh, as the teams from the Alliance To fete the opening of its Rodeo Drive fl agship, Burberry of certain endemic situations. For example, if we work with other stakeholders, including the Accord brought a massive dose of British fl avor to one of Hollywood’s are successful in enclosing staircases and install- on Fire and Building Safety, a compendium of more most iconic locations, Griffi th Observatory. PAGE 10 ing sprinklers and fi re alarms to improve fi re and than 180 retailers and brands, mostly European, building safety in Bangladesh, we are still going to along with the Bangladesh government, factory Emilio Pucci opened its third store in Florida, in the Miami have challenges in terms of the public space.” owners and workers, fi re and safety issues need Design District. Pucci’s famed Torre print, originally designed in more than technical information. With his back- He explained that in the U.S. and Europe there 1966, embellishes the entire facade. PAGE 11 were certain assumptions of the quality of public ground in engineering and public policy, much of space, the width of streets, the degree to which build- Chubb’s work has involved issues related to the ings in an urban landscape can be discharged, along transfer of technical information or standards into In order to fete April 20 — aka National Marijuana Day — High with a public right of way that is protected, open, a political and legal context, a skill that should help Times magazine has launched a petition to free all non-violent accessible and wide enough for people to discharge negotiate the complexities of the present system. marijuana users from U.S. prisons. PAGE 11 freely in any direction. Chubb said that since a large part of the tech- “That’s clearly not the case in Bangladesh,” nical staff with which he would be working had Chubb said. “Many of the buildings are in very been engaged from the engineering community and ON WWD.COM densely populated urban areas where street widths the technical community in the garment sector in are inadequate, where adjacent land uses encroach Bangladesh, it would be easier to ensure that stan- Burberry: To celebrate the opening of its Rodeo Drive fl agship, right on the public way and are often right next to dards were not imposed from outside, but rather Burberry brought a massive dose of British fl avor to Hollywood. the building and the ability of people to discharge work toward helping the country raise the standard For more, see WWD.com. freely once they come out at the ground level is that it has really identifi ed and tried to establish. going to be a challenge. That’s not a challenge that The commitment to make these changes, along we would have routinely expected or encountered with a realism of the economic challenges associ- CORRECTION in the U.S. and Europe. So even if we increase the ated with it, would help work these out, along with level of fi re and building safety, we’re going to have the social and technical challenges, he said. Puig’s three facilities in Spain manufacture more than a challenge getting people out of the building.” “In other words, we know it’s going to take time 67 percent of its products, while its factory in Chartres, Another example he cited is related to sprinkler to improve fi re-safety measures,” Chubb added. France, is responsible for 31 percent. This information was incorrect in an article on page 9 on Friday.

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Benetton Contributes to Rana Plaza Fund @ WWD.com/social MILAN — Benetton Group has contributed $1.1 mil- cial association with Rana Plaza. lion to the Rana Plaza Donors Trust Fund, double “We have decided to go further, to demonstrate TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. the amount recommended by independent asses- very clearly how deeply we care,” said Marco WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. sors PwC and Worldwide Responsible Accredited Airoldi, chief executive offi cer of Benetton Group, COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 80. MONDAY, APRIL 20, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays Production (WRAP). noting: “Whilst there is no real redress for the trag- and holidays, with one additional issue in March, June, August, September, October, November and December, and two This brings the Italian clothing giant’s total pay- ic loss of life, we hope that this robust and clear additional issues in April and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals ments in support of victims of the 2013 garment fac- mechanism for calculating compensation could be postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses tory tragedy in Dhaka, Bangladesh, to $1.6 million; used more widely. For this reason, we decided to to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, Benetton Group had previously donated $500,000 to make the PwC report available to stakeholders.” P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at BRAC, a Bangladesh-based non-governmental aid Benetton Group was among 29 brands connect- wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York organization. ed to fi rms manufacturing inside the Rana Plaza Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected The news of additional reparations comes after building, and it joined labels such as H&M and address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you Benetton Group’s February agreement to join other Abercrombie & Fitch in signing the Fire and Building are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues fashion fi rms — such as Inditex, El Corte Inglès, Safety Accord after the collapse, which killed more contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business and production among many others — in supporting the Rana Plaza than a thousand people and injured thousands more. correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656, or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. Donors Trust Fund, following mounting pressure “With a tragedy of this scale, no fi nancial contri- For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. and an online petition circulated by the Avaaz cam- bution can ever really be enough, but we welcome To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED paign group that singled out the retailer and sug- Benetton’s decision to pay more than its calculated MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND gested it was shirking responsibility. share of the fund based on the report published by TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED PwC calculated Benetton Group’s retributions at PwC,” said Avedis Seferian, president and ceo of WRAP. TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE $550,000, based on the fashion company’s commer- — CYNTHIA MARTENS ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. M_HAD_Fall2015.indd 1 4/13/15 3:23 PM 4 WWD MONDAY, APRIL 20, 2015 kitschy

Alexis Bittar’s 10-karat gold, Lucite and cerulean crystal cabochon poodle pin. L

L Giannico’s yellow satin pump with crystal embroidery and black velvet and metal pump. L businessACCESSORIES DESIGNERS HAD FUN FOR FALL, CREATING THESE SUREFIRE CONVERSATION STARTERS. — ROXANNE ROBINSON

L Yazbukey’s Plexiglas clutch.

Marco De Vincenzo’s rainbow acetate sunglasses with coordinating lenses. L 4 WWD MONDAY, APRIL 20, 2015 WWD MONDAY, APRIL 20, 2015 5 WWD.COM kitschy L Emilio Pucci Eyewear’s acetate and metal sunglasses.

Kate Spade’s metal and resin clutch. L

L Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane’s leather pump.

Alexis Bittar’s 10-karat gold, Lucite and cerulean crystal cabochon poodle pin. L Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane’s leather pump, Emilio Pucci Eyewear’s acetate and metal sunglasses and Stella McCartney’s brass and crystal necklace. Photo by George Chinsee

Giannico’s yellow satin pump with crystal embroidery and black velvet and metal pump. Photo by George Chinsee L Giannico’s yellow satin pump with crystal embroidery and Alexis Bittar’s 10-karat gold, Lucite and cerulean crystal cabochon poodle pin. L black velvet and metal pump. L Photo by courtesy photo

L Stella McCartney’s brass and crystal necklace. Anya Hindmarch’s capra leather and suede bag. Photo by courtesy photo

Kate Spade’s metal and resin clutch. ACCESSORIES DESIGNERS HAD FUN FOR FALL, CREATING THESE SUREFIRE CONVERSATION STARTERS. — ROXANNE ROBINSON Photo by courtesy photo business Mary Katrantzou’s acrylic and foam clutch. Photo by Xavier Granet

Marco De Vincenzo’s rainbow acetate sunglasses with coordinating lenses. Photo by courtesy photo

Yazbukey’s Plexiglas clutch. Photo by courtesy photo

L Yazbukey’s Plexiglas clutch.

L Mary Katrantzou’s acrylic and foam clutch.

Marco De Vincenzo’s rainbow acetate sunglasses with coordinating lenses. L L Anya Hindmarch’s capra leather and suede bag. GRANET PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE AND XAVIER 6 WWD MONDAY, APRIL 20, 2015

Friends, Colleagues Bid Goodbye to Fredric Brandt made the mistake of telling the fash- By PETE BORN and ANNA DYSINGER Kelly Ripa with the wave of orchids ionista doctor that he needed a coat for behind her at the memorial service work. Brandt quickly whisked him off “I THINK WE can all agree that Dr. B for Dr. Fredric Brandt. to Moncler. would have loved to be headlining at “Fred comes out with two guys hold-

Alice Tully Hall,” said Kelly Ripa, star ing a ton of coats: orange, silver, white, of “Live! With Kelly and Michael.” The plaid,” the hair stylist said. packed audience at Lincoln Center Garren wanted something less outra- erupted in laughter because it was geous, so Brandt selected a green coat probably true; before Ripa, the 10 pre- with ruching, straps, buckles and fur. vious speakers had recalled Dr. Fredric “I said, ‘I’ll take it,’” Garren recalled. Brandt’s penchant for show tunes, musi- ’’ “I just wanted to go home. I told [my hus- cals and the occasional rap. band] Tom: ‘I’ll put it back in the bag and Ripa was standing in the middle return it eventually.’” of the theater’s broad stage that was It wasn’t just Brandt’s knack for dress- fi lled with 3,000 white orchid blooms, ing that garnered him attention — his arranged to resemble a huge wave. skills as a cosmetic dermatologist were The orchids were in reference to the equally as lauded by colleagues. late Brandt, who always kept fresh ar- “He was someone that consistently rangements in his dermatology offi ce. remained ahead of the curve in the Thursday night, the fl owers were also world of aesthetics, never surrendering a reminder of the passing of Brandt his number-one position for several de- to his 400 friends and colleagues who cades,” said Howard D. Sobel, a cosmetic fi lled Alice Tully to celebrate his life dermatologist and friend of Brandt’s for and say goodbye. more than 30 years, during a reception “This is the saddest thing that I after the service. “It’s almost an impos-

never thought I would have to do. JOHN CALABRESE PHOTOS BY sible accomplishment to reproduce no When I look out into this room I see matter what your fi eld of expertise is.” so many beautiful faces and I realized Joy Behar, past cohost of “The View,” that Fred is all around us,” Ripa said, admitted that she will certainly miss his apparently referring to the doctor’s When I look out into this room I see skillful hands. artistry in aesthetic dermatology. “He “At one point I said to him, ‘I need is with all of us now.” so many beautiful faces and I realize to lose weight but I don’t want to lose a Ripa was the last of 11 speakers to lot because I’ll look old.’ He said, ‘Don’t take turns at the microphone during the that Fred is all around us. worry, you have me,’” Behar recalled. “What are we going to do without him — KELLY RIPA now? We’re all going to have to stay fat.” Joy Behar Brandt had shared an offi ce in New York with Roy Geronemus, and the two of hour-and-a-half memorial service, mark- bered with a smile. “We sat there with them were lifelong friends. ing the death of the 65-year-old Brandt, the door cracked open giggling like chil- “He cared a great deal about his ap- who was found dead on April 5 of what dren. We laughed so much that day. That pearance,” Geronemus said of Brandt. later was described as a suicide in his is what I will remember the most about “He would interrupt conversations with Coconut Grove, Fla., home. him: his laughter, his unabashed joy, his patients and others and say, ‘What I re-

The event was arranged by Lisa sense of humor, his kindness, his selfl ess- ally want to know from you is, how do I Marie Falcone, a New York socialite and ness. He gave us everything he had and look?’ One day we were in the elevator Brandt’s close friend. there will never be another Fred Brandt. together and we were joined by one of Brandt was praised throughout the eve- Brandt, who was often identifi ed by my patients who wanted to know if Fred ning both by testimonials of his great medi- his roster of celebrity clients includ- was my son. I didn’t know whether to cal accomplishments and equally great ing Madonna, Stephanie Seymour, Joy sulk or make an appointment with him.

humor, generosity and manic goodwill. Behar and Ripa, also had a reputa- He laughed but refused to gloat — that Ripa recalled an incident a few years tion as a clotheshorse.’’ He had a habit wasn’t his style.” ago when she was shooting a commercial of buying his outrageously chic outfi ts Geronemus, like several others, also and broke out with a massive pimple. In a straight off the runway, kilt and all. pointed out that Brandt’s generosity panic, she summoned Brandt, who arrived “Fred considered me a boring dress- knew no bounds. “It didn’t matter if you only to tell her that he was on a very tight er,” said star hair stylist Garren. “I were an Academy Award winner, lived schedule and a solution’’ had to be found thought I was pretty cool,” he protested, on Fifth Avenue or you were a blue-col- quickly so he could return to the offi ce. referring to his own affi nity for white, lar worker — you were treated well by “Then a group of male models dis- black and navy. Fred. He felt an enormous responsibil- robed and oiled up and suddenly Fred He got a crash course in the Brandt ity for his patients and wanted nothing and I are ordering lunch,” Ripa remem- school of shopping one day when he but perfection for everyone.”

Vera Carlos Falchi’s Jovial Spirit Remembered Wang behind the wheel of his car. To try to were the only ones that were not spitting By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG keep the mood buoyant after the memori- out the Champagne,” she said. al service, Jennifer Balbier arranged for Frasch, who fi rst met Falchi in his NEW YORK — In tribute to the exuber- Davi Vieira’s Brazilian band to perform. Neiman Marcus days, talked about the ant life that Carlos Falchi led, family Guests were also offered cheese-bread designer’s love of life. On a more serious and friends of the designer gathered at note, he said, “As the years progressed I Urban Zen here Thursday night to cel- realized just how important that Carlos ebrate his memory. was to our industry. He was the guy who Instead of mournful black, many He was the guy who was always there, always quick to advise women in the standing-room-only crowd and to mentor our young industry tal- wore jewel tones and vibrant prints as a was always there, ent...to me that was Carlos — give, give, wink at his love of color. His bags — in all give — what a guy,” Frasch said. “And he shapes and sizes, including his draped- was a wonderful friend, kind, curious and-cinched Buffalo bag and patchwork always quick to advise and always so gentle.” leathers — were so well-represented that Frasch also described Falchi as some- one photographer waited at the entrance and to mentor our one who never left his roots, continuing to shoot every last one. Having dressed to see the bright side, being remarkably an assortment of performers over the young industry talent. creative and loving people. “From his years — including Tina Turner, Rihanna, humble, humble start to be recognized for Elvis Presley and Mick Jagger — Cher — RON FRASCH his great genius is really, truly an amazing represented his musical roots by provid- story. There are so many ways to remem- ing the substantial display of lilies. hors d’oeuvres, a personal favorite of the ber this remarkable citizen of our times — Falchi died March 27 at the age of 70. late designer. his freedom, his passion, his immense love Vera Wang, Ron Frasch, Mindy Falchi’s daughters Kate and Juliet for his daughters and Missy,” he added. Grossman, Kay Unger, Fern Mallis, Stan recalled memorable vignettes from Recalling how Falchi danced tire- Herman and Lisa Smilor were among childhood through adulthood. Kate lessly at Frasch’s wedding, Frasch said the faces in the crowd. One of the speak- Falchi laughed about sneaking into a his wife’s family still referred to Falchi ers, Michele Ateyeh, recalled how Falchi Champagne tasting with her father at The as the superfun guy who showed them all loved driving so much that even 20 blocks Plaza Hotel, when he passed himself off how to dance. “This was Carlos, diving in, or a short spin to Michael’s restaurant as a Boston restaurant owner. “Though I being a part of life and never sitting on were enough of a reason for him to get don’t think the scam worked’’ because we the sidelines,” he said. AMBER DE VOS PHOTO BY

’’ ’’ WWD MONDAY, APRIL 20, 2015 7 WWD.COM OBITUARY Design Takes the Fore at Salone del Mobile Mall Pioneer, Philanthropist Alfred Taubman “Because I’m used to working their stores redesigned or get with jewelry, this seemed so big By DAVID MOIN out of his mall. when I was making it, but now it “I figured maybe I should looks so small compared to ev- A. ALFRED TAUBMAN, the He was so proud of what know who this guy Taubman erything else here,” she said. visionary developer and is,” Walker said. “I called him At the sprawling Salone fair- founder of Taubman Centers, and he invited me up to his of- grounds outside town, brands died Friday night after suffer- this wonderful company he fi ces in New York and we sat including Versace, Roberto ing a heart attack at his home and talked for an hour about Cavalli, Fendi, Frette, Diesel in Bloomfield Hills, Mich. founded 65 years ago has architecture and design. That and Missoni showed off stacks Taubman was 91. became the start of a very long of designs — quirky, elegant and “Just last month he was in accomplished. and very personal relationship at times extreme. Frette’s collec- Puerto Rico to celebrate with — 40 years….He liked people tion of home ware was as whim- us the grand opening of the — ROBERT TAUBMAN, immensely. He was friendly sical as it was polished and was Mall of San Juan,” said Robert with the janitor or the presi- inspired by the patterns and Taubman, president and chief TAUBMAN CENTERS dent. He was so wealthy that he textures of Milanese architec- executive officer of Taubman was not impressed by wealth. ture. The Gothic curves of the Centers, and one of Alfred It was what you did with your Duomo’s rose window, the geo- Taubman’s three children. “He wealth.” metric lines of tram tracks across was so proud of what this won- “Al had a great sense of ar- the city and the roof patterns of derful company he founded 65 chitecture and scale, and al- the city’s central station popped years ago has accomplished.” ways took it a step up,” said on bed linens and towels. After dinner Friday night, Sydney Forbes, founder and Cavalli put a focus on func- “a heart attack took him from partner of Forbes Co., which tion, showing off tall closets with us, ending what was a full ex- partnered with Taubman OBITUARY clothing rails that moved up and traordinary life that touched so Centers in creating the Mall down by remote control. A big, many people in so many won- at Millenia in Orlando and portable vanity trunk was cov- derful ways around the world. ’’ Waterside Shops in Naples, ered in quilted white leather and Right now it is diffi cult for me Fla., and is partnering with fi lled with a table, mirrors, and to express our sadness,” said Taubman on the planned Mall Pioneer, Philanthropist Alfred Taubman drawers for makeup and jewelry. Robert Taubman. Mall at Miami Worldcenter, a The Cavalli collection was also “Our father was really our 765,000-square-foot center to fi lled with predictably lavish con- inspiration, and the culture of be anchored by Bloomingdale’s coctions such as candleholders the company and our values and Macy’s. resembling snakes; pleated and are really based on him,” added “He created an atmosphere studded suede sofas; hair calf William Taubman, chief operat- that attracted shoppers, that patchwork rugs, and gold-fringed ing offi cer of Taubman Centers, made them feel comfortable,” handles on night tables. and Alfred’s other son. Forbes said. “You walked in and Versace unveiled two new The tall and gregarious you felt good. He took the big collections, La Coupe des Deux Alfred Taubman took his family- fi rst step forward in terms of de- and #Greek. Its showroom at run shopping-center business sign and aesthetics and he was the fairgrounds was fi lled with on a path of growth through concerned about the tenants, white Mongolian fur covered the development of traditional and knew what they were doing side tables; spindly Fifties-style malls that were selectively mer- and who could do the busi- leather chairs dotted with the chandised rather than just fi lled ness.” Not long ago, Taubman brand’s Medusa head motif, and with tenants willing to pay the A. Alfred Taubman enjoys a moment with his sons Robert and William. told Forbes that he wanted to black wood-framed beds and most rent. With an education in be around to see the opening of sofas, which seemed spare and architecture, Taubman had a square foot last year. Taubman Kennedy School at Harvard ments included at different Miami Worldcenter. “He always understated compared with the sensitivity to aesthetics and an Centers operates 19 mall prop- University, and established The times, the former Woodward said that he wanted to plant signature Versace fare. attention to detail unlike other erties in the U.S., has another A. Alfred Taubman Center for & Lothrop and Wanamaker’s another tree even though he Fabrics are the drivers be- developers and builders. “He expected to open next year in esign Education at the College department stores. In 1983, wouldn’t necessarily be there to hind the Missoni collection, and loved great form, simple great Honolulu called International for Creative Studies in Detroit. Taubman bought the Sotheby’s sit under it.” the brand offered up a variety of modernist form, but integrity Marketplace, and has two proj- Taubman wrote “Threshold auction house, a deal that would Three weeks ago, Alfred fresh prints, including one that in every way was important to ects under construction in Resistance: The Extraordinary end up tarnishing his reputa- attended the grand open- featured pale, naïf fl owers and him,” William said. South Korea and China. Career of a Luxury Retailing tion. In the early Aughts, he ing at the Mall of San Juan in sparkles and another with pas- Taubman pioneered re- “He was a tall, strong, out- Pioneer,” in which he coined and the-then head of Sotheby’s, Puerto Rico, another Taubman tel zigzags. Sofas came covered gional, upscale centers with going guy with a very strong the phrase “threshold resis- Diana Brooks, were charged Centers project. “We walked in a 3-D houndstooth pattern skylights, terrazzo fl oors, brass personality,” said Burt Tansky, tance” to describe the psycho- with running a six-year price- him through and together we while chunky, poolside chairs railings, landscaping and split- the former chairman and ceo logical and physical barriers fi xing scheme with fellow auc- looked at the architecture and were covered in jazzy, dark level parking as well as food of Neiman Marcus Group. “He that keep shoppers from enter- tion house Christie’s. Taubman the merchandising,” said his stripes with a Seventies feel. courts and movie theaters. leaves behind a legacy of estab- ing a store. was found guilty, forced to re- son William. Diesel took outer space as Carpeting the malls just didn’t lishing some of the best malls in Several who knew Taubman sign as Sotheby’s chairman, “He had the chance to expe- one of its inspirations, with a do it for him, believing that the country.” described him as a larger- fi ned $7.5 million and sentenced rience that and he loved it. He tableware collection featuring carpeting caused friction and “He didn’t just love the ar- than-life fi gure, highly visual to a year and a day in prison, did say the ceiling could have astronaut-shaped vases with tired the feet of shoppers. He chitecture of what he was build- in social circles attending but he ended up serving about been 10 feet lower and that plants sprouting out of their hel- convinced retailers to build ing. He loved the merchandise black ties and fund-raisers nine months. He always pro- maybe we wasted a little money mets and giant salt shakers and big branch stores to serve as and had a feel for the way the with his wife Judy. Each year fessed his innocence. on the volume of space. But he pepper mills shaped like rocket anchors and luxury brands to customer shopped and how he would take friends on a In business, he had a reputa- agreed it was very dramatic. ships. The brand also introduced enter malls when previously the merchandise should fl ow,” fi shing trip to Iceland and stay tion of sometimes being uncom- What was great about my father wooden flooring and outdoor they only considered high said Michael Gould, the former in a cabin. He also collected promising, tough with tenants, was that he was very analytical. furniture this year along with streets. And he foresaw how the Bloomingdale’s chairman and art, played golf, loved eating and micromanaging, yet con- He was very direct. He would tie-dyed fabrics and wood with a nation’s burgeoning highway ceo, who knew Taubman for and had a personal chef. tinuously striving for the best. give you his opinion, and he also subtle camoufl age pattern. system would draw people to more than 30 years. “His malls Born in 1924 in Pontiac, Taubman would prefer that any understood that unless you were At Fendi Casa, the brand the suburbs and believed that were always of a classy nature, Mich., to Jewish immigrants space in the mall stayed vacant going to be there to execute, you made a nod to one of its most im- mall development should fol- but what he gave back to the who came to the U.S. from until he found what he thought had to let the person executing portant markets, China, by creat- low the population migration. community, to schools, to all Białystok, Poland, Taubman would be the right tenant. make the decision.” ing a red lacquered “Zen table,” He could be daring. In 1971, sorts of organizations, repre- grew up through the Great “I considered Alfred a men- When the Sotheby’s situa- Murano glasses with dragon Taubman, anticipating the great sents a far greater legacy than Depression, and started work- tor,” said Ken Walker, a retail tion erupted, Alfred had to turn designs and patterned “pixel ef- growth that would come to the his malls.” ing at age 11 as a stock boy in architect, brand-builder and over the reins of the business fect” cushions that also recall northwest suburbs of Chicago, The billionaire Taubman a Sims department store. He currently, an operating partner to his sons. “He was willing to the shapes of Chinese calligra- opened the mega two-million- was as recognized for his phi- served in the Air Force dur- at Marvin Traub Associates. let go,” William said. “He never phy. A Fendi spokesman said square-foot Woodfi eld Mall in lanthropy as for his malls, ing World War II and after- Walker, who had lunch with stopped giving us his advice, that while the U.S. has tradition- Schaumburg, Ill., which at the supporting stem-cell re- ward studied architecture at Taubman earlier this month, but he was smart enough to ally been the brand’s biggest time had a population of only search at the University of the University of Michigan recalled that decades ago, know he had to let us make our market, China has been rapidly 18,000. The mall is now owned Michigan. During his lifetime, and Lawrence Technological when he was involved in de- own decisions.” growing quickly and becoming by the Simon Property Group. he donated $160 million to the University but did not graduate signing Burdines stores, among The funeral service will one of the brand’s most impor- Among some of Taubman’s University of Michigan, es- from those schools. He did work others, he received several sur- be held Tuesday morning at tant markets. Fendi Casa is also other successful upscale prop- tablishing its Alfred Taubman for a time at an architectural prise phone calls from retail- the Shaarey Zedek synagogue, opening a “hub” in Beijing to erties are the Mall at Short Medical Research Institute, fi rm, but in 1950, he saw the ex- ers. “They would say, ‘I’m in 27375 Bell Road, Southfield, oversee collaborations and fur- Hills in New Jersey, the Beverly the Taubman College of plosive growth of the suburbs one of Taubman’s centers and Mich. In addition to his two niture projects. Center in Los Angeles and Architecture and Urban coming and decided to start a he won’t renew the lease and sons, Alfred Taubman is sur- Most recently, Fendi Casa Cherry Creek in Denver. The Planning and the Taubman retail real estate development he told me to call you’” to im- vived by his wife, Judith; his furnished the new Yacht Club portfolio of regional and su- Medical Library. He also do- fi rm, which began by building a prove the store design. “I never daughter, Gayle; a stepdaughter de Monaco designed by Jacques perregional malls remains nated more than $35 million bridal shop and progressed into even met Taubman yet I was Tiffany, a stepson Christopher, Grange. The new club is now highly productive, generat- for the Taubman Center for shopping centers. getting these calls from retail- nine grandchildren and one home to Fendi’s long and lush ing $809 in average sales per domestic public policy at the Taubman’s personal invest- ers,” told by Taubman to get great-grandchild. Hampton sofa, and is the back- drop of its latest ad campaign. 8 WWD MONDAY, APRIL 20, 2015 Thakoon Channels London for Kohl’s InTurn Draws Investors {Continued from page one} Born in Thailand and raised in Omaha, created a complete range of ready-to-wear, Panichgul earned a business degree from To Off-price Sales Model with an emphasis on distinct pieces that Boston University and moved to New York to that give clear reads on the offer. would stand alone or mix easily together. pursue a fashion degree. Prior to launch- By DAVID MOIN InTurn lists purchasing rules, Panichgul said he has always had a ing his own label, he spent four years as such as whether you can buy all certain affi nity for London. “London is a writer and editor for Harper’s Bazaar. THE ALREADY burgeoning off- of the inventory or part of it, and a city I have always loved the energy of. He later enrolled in The New School’s price sector could accelerate with for how long the offer stands; The culture is distinctly familiar, but Parsons School of Design. In September B-to-B technology being intro- geographic restrictions on where also very international. The idea was 2004, Panichgul presented his fi rst ready- duced to automate how buyers pro- the product can sell, and calen- to bring a certain energy intrinsic to to-wear collection. In 2006, he was cure excess inventory from brands. dar restrictions on when to start London style to the Thakoon vernacu- one of three recipients of the Vogue/ The new platform, called and stop selling the products. In lar for Kohl’s,” he said. CFDA Fashion Fund and also has InTurn, has attracted some addition, there’s a margin ana- Panichgul said he collaborated been nominated by the CFDA for the high-profi le industry investors lyzer that calculates purchase with Kohl’s from start to fi nish. “The Swarovski Award for Best Emerging — Ken Seiff, founder of Bluefl y, prices to get the desired mar- design team at Kohl’s is adept when it Womenswear Designer. and Silas Chou, who backed gins. Frequently, buyers are writ- comes to working with designers, and Over the years, Thakoon has devel- the Michael Kors and Tommy ing orders without product pic- translating their vision and silhouettes oped a cult following for his ro- Hilfi ger businesses. tures, descriptions, UPCs, color in a way that works perfectly for the mantic, feminine designs, which In addition, Kirsten Green of codes and country-of-origin in- Kohl’s customer,” he said. He noted that A look have been worn by First Lady Forerunner Ventures led a $3.6 formation; however, InTurn is price point is always a consideration and from Michelle Obama, who wore a million round of fi nancing that in- designed to provide all that. It’s an important factor of the design process at Thakoon Thakoon fl oral dress on the eve- cluded Seiff ’s Beanstalk Ventures cloud-based (nothing needs to be any level, “so it was natural to defi ne, and for Kohl’s. ning President Obama accepted seed investment fi rm; Novel TMT, installed), it’s mobile ready, and focus on the pieces and shapes that could the 2008 Democratic nomination. which is Chou’s family’s technolo- it works on any kind of device. be executed the right way, at the right price Panichgul also designed a limited-edition gy-investment arm; Lerer Hippeau The introduction of point for this initiative.” clothing line at Target in 2009. Ventures; Bobby Lent, cofounder InTurn is timely, considering Panichgul has been in the news lately. Launched in fall 2012, Kohls’ DesigNation of Ariba, and T5 Capital. Nordstrom Rack, Saks Off-5th, As reported, he is among the designers has featured such designers as Narciso “We are redefi ning an area of Bloomingdale’s, Century 21 and being considered to do a global e-com- Rodriguez, Derek Lam, Catherine Malandrino, T.J. Maxx are aggressively merce venture with Vivian Chou, daughter Peter Som and Elie Tahari, with the upcom- expanding their outlet fl eets, of Hong Kong mogul Silas Chou, but no de- ing collaboration with Milly by Michelle Smith while Macy’s is considering cision has been made yet. launching April 23. opening outlets for the fi rst time. But getting the invento- ry on the selling fl oors is de- layed by manual, ineffi cient Poppy Delevingne Tapped by Jo Malone tools and processes, which means brands are stuck with Cook, while he was wear- merchandise longer, leading By SAMANTHA CONTI Poppy ing the brand’s Amber & to steeper markdowns, and Delevingne Lavender cologne. “The fi rst off-price buyers can’t thor- LONDON — Poppy thing I noticed was how good oughly analyze the inventory. Delevingne is about to under- he smelled,” said Delevingne. “Brands have been sell- take a global fragrance mis- Such was her dedication The InTurn platform. ing their excess inventory sion for Jo Malone London to the brand that she wore to retailers in linear fash- as the British brand’s first its Orange Blossom cologne retail that’s been very manual ion using Excel spreadsheets ambassador, or Jo Malone on her wedding day and dur- and outdated,” Ronen Lazar, for too long,” Lazar said. “It’s ar- London Girl. ing her honeymoon, and is InTurn’s chief executive offi- chaic and massively ineffi cient. Delevingne has already now a devotee of Tuberose cer and cofounder, told WWD. Buyers have been handcuffed thrown herself into the new Angelica. “It’s a little muskier, “Instead of taking days or weeks to buying what they are offered, role with gusto, and is plan- a little sexier. It’s me grow- to assemble the offer, it can now not what they want. And because ning two events with the ing up a bit,” she said during take minutes. It improves the selling off price is a by-product brand, a division of The Estée an interview at the brand’s work fl ow on both sides, making of their core business, brands Lauder Cos. Inc. The first grand town house in London’s things happen faster.” end up selling to buyers who event, next week, will be “a Marylebone. “While nearly every aspect of may not be the optimal buyers ball with a modern twist,” and Jean-Guillaume Trottier, the retail experience has been for their inventory. This is cost- the second, “a dinner celebrat- global general manager of automated, the sellers and buy- ing both sides billions of dollars ing English roses,” will take Jo Malone London, said, “We ers of excess inventory have been a year,” said Lazar. “There’s a place in Los Angeles in May. want to work with people, like completely ignored,” Seiff added. tremendous amount of money In an interview, Delevingne Poppy, who are already big “Transactions between the sell- left on the table.” said there are more projects advocates of our brand. This ers and buyers have been run on InTurn executives said the in the pipeline, and the brand JAMES MASON PHOTO BY has made our collaboration a Excel spreadsheets for 40 years. technology has been in beta test- is an easy fi t for her. “I’m look- very natural one,” he added, This is the fi rst big innovation in ing with some major brands and ing forward to being the peony pioneer,” said noting that her primary focus will be on “shar- this space since Microsoft Excel.” retailers since last fall, though Delevingne, the British model, actress and ing her love for Jo Malone London rather than According to the executives, they declined to mention who swimwear entrepreneur who is an elder sister creating new scents and collections.” InTurn eliminates the manu- they were. Lazar has assembled of Cara Delevingne. Trottier said that going forward, the role of am- al labor involved in creating a team that includes Michael The company said she is “brimming with ideas bassador may vary depending on the individual. spreadsheets; sorts by classifi ca- Newman, previously vice chair- and will offer her support and dynamism to a “We would like them to be able to work with tion; shows sizing and color in- man, chief operating and chief fi - wide spectrum of projects over the next year.” the brand in their own tailored way, incorporat- formation; indicates quantities, nancial offi cer of Ralph Lauren, Not only was Delevingne a dedicated Red ing their strengths and what comes naturally. We suggested retail prices, whole- and David Margolis, founder and Roses fan as a very young woman — she turns will also consider further additions to the pro- sale prices, new asking prices former president of The TJX 29 next month — but she was fi rst drawn to the gram, both male and female, in London and in and, in effect, creates “private, Companies’ Winners division, as man who would become her husband, James other key global cities,” he said. curated showrooms for retailers” strategic advisers.

Evert said the line consists of stretch fabric with recovery for Chris Evert Unveils Activewear Line high performance. “All fabrics “I’ve always dreamed of creat- women. You want to look good have great wicking,” she said. By SHARON EDELSON ing my own line and Tail felt like a on the court as well as perform “Tail fabrics are known for their natural fi t as a partner,” Evert, 61, well. I’ve been in the game for so moisture management, com- CHRIS EVERT HAS launched a said. “For years, as I dropped my long, I’ve seen different trends fort stretch and sun protection. tennis and activewear collection children off at school, other moms come and go. Chrissie by Tail in- Most fabrics are protected with aimed at women over 30. would say, ‘When are you going to cludes my favorite details such UPF 40-plus and are easy care The tennis legend, who start a tennis and active line that’s as mesh on a dress, pleated and — most can be machine washed holds 157 singles titles, 18 built for women’s bodies?’ ruffl ed skirts and cap sleeves — and dried. The fabrics also have Grand Slam singles titles and “The other lines available are these have been part of my signa- an extremely soft and luxurious six U.S. Open wins, among beautiful, but they’re designed ture style on the court.” hand feel, including our luxe other tennis-related acco- for the 18-year-old body,” she For example, the Lilliana jersey and luxe slub.” lades, has designed Chrissie added. “I’m designing for myself, skort for $73, in yellow high- When Italian activewear by Tail in partnership with Tail but the unique fi ts and styles will lighter, has an asymmetric ruffl e company Ellesse relaunched Activewear. The collection, appeal to women of all ages.” and the Ziara skort has a row of its business in North America which features about 100 styles, Evert describes her personal pleats at the hem. A neon pink in 2011, Evert took a minority is divided into three groups by style as “feminine with a little dress, $99, has a zipper detail stake in the U.S. arm, signed on Chris Evert color: highlighter yellow and edge.” “I like the cleanness of and double fl ounce. There are as its spokeswoman and collabo- wearing powder blue; neon pink, and classic tennis whites, but at the several legging styles and skeg- rated on a full line of tennis ap- Chrissie atomic blue. It’s available on same time I also love vibrant gings, $85, with mesh sides and parel that was to bow the follow- by Tail. tailactivewear.com and in 200 colors,” she said. “I actually shorts. Zip jackets are $105, long- ing year, but the collection was specialty stores this month. think they’re more fl attering on sleeve cardigans and wraps, $85. never produced. 2.5x7 (right)

WWD MONDAY, APRIL 20, 2015 9 WWD.COM

Alibaba Faces Challenges in Fixing Counterfeit Woes {Continued from page one} based technology consultancy tiny has been seen as surpris- New York last year. At the AAFA Marbridge Consulting,’’ said. ing. Natkin said that it is hard to conference, a USTR representa- “It is coming under attack, and pinpoint what, exactly, is going tive said Alibaba has “essential- therefore is vulnerable and that on behind the country’s opaque ly reversed course” on its efforts gains momentum as people start political scene, but the fact that to remove counterfeit items to look into the company.” Alibaba is rapidly expanding its from Taobao. Natkin also said the chal- business into sectors long domi- A week earlier, the AAFA filed lenge of eradicating counter- nated by big state-owned enter- complaints with the USTR and feit products from Taobao is prises or bureaucrats, such as the U.S. Securities and Exchange an overwhelming one. “There banking, health care and public Commission that claimed coun- is this vast ocean of stores,” he services, is one possible expla- terfeiting is worsening on Taobao said. “There is just so much you nation for Beijing’s criticism. and called for immediate ac- have to sift through. It is sort of “Alibaba is getting into a lot of tion. In response to the AAFA an impossible task.” areas that are sort of government complaint, Alibaba said in a He added the question of territory,” Natkin said. “It is get- statement that it is “dedicated what could happen to Taobao in ting powerful in those areas. That to the fight against counterfeits because the health and integrity Alibaba’s Taobao has been under fire over counterfeits. of our marketplaces depend on consumer trust,” adding that the year, with China’s State lators could stem from the fact If you take 5,000 storefronts down e-commerce giant has been work- Administration of Industry and that Alibaba has come to repre- ing closely with the AAFA since Commerce, or SAIC, releasing sent China’s e-commerce indus- that sell these products, they will 2012 to discuss how Alibaba can a report that accused Alibaba try abroad. With pressure on the address the sales of counterfeit employees of taking bribes and company from Beijing, in addi- goods online. criticizing the company for not tion to the announcement of a just pop up under a different name Alibaba declined to comment doing enough to crack down on Chinese government investiga- on the USTR allegations. the sale of counterfeit products. tion looking into business practic- or company again. In 2012, the USTR removed Meanwhile, at the end of es across China’s online shopping Taobao from its “Notorious January, a lawsuit was filed sector, it is an opportune time to — TORSTEN STOCKER, A.T. KEARNEY Markets” list and declined to re- in New York against Alibaba, step up criticism of the company. list the site in its 2013 and 2014 claiming the e-commerce giant Alibaba “is just so big and just the future “is the question that is perceived by some as a threat.” reports. Alibaba said it has hired made misleading statements so visible,” Stocker said. “If you everyone always wonders.” “It is unclear how long Alibaba around 2,000 employees to help and hid the fact that it met with are big and visible, you are the “We have long felt that will have to weather this or what with intellectual property and Chinese regulators months target of any underlying system- Taobao still plays this very im- measures they will have to take to counterfeit issues. The company before the company’s IPO in atic criticism. Who else do you go portant role for the company,” convince people to stop attacking said it has more than 5,000 vol- September. The plaintiffs are after if you don’t go after them? If Natkin said. “Even just in terms them,” he added. “My guess is that unteers monitoring Taobao for alleging Alibaba met with SAIC you are hoping for some change or of a traffic hub, it is so enormous they still have a stretch to go. It is fakes, and, in 2013 and 2014 spent in July 2014, just two months be- some enforcement, then Alibaba and generates traffic for so many not necessarily great for them, but $160.7 million to battle intellec- fore its IPO, and that regulators is probably your best bet.” other [Alibaba] platforms.” at the same time, in terms of the tual property infringement and raised concerns about possible “Everyone sees this as a Alibaba has long been seen overall ecosystem, they are re- enhance consumer protection. illegal business practices. moment of weakness for the as a symbol of national pride markably well-positioned. Additional scrutiny came Stocker said the increased company,” Mark Natkin, man- for China’s IT industry, which is “They probably’’ can withstand from Beijing earlier this criticism from American regu- aging director of the Beijing- why Chinese government scru- a little longer,” Natkin said. Sarah Jessica Parker and Zappos Partner on New Shoe Collection WWD PRINT SUBSCRIBERS: most part, really seem to be connect- By KARI HAMANAKA ing with the consumer. We’ll have PLEASE GIVE US YOUR shoes that are misses and it’s mysteri- LAS VEGAS — Expect nothing short of ous, sometimes inexplicable when you EMAIL ADDRESS sparkle and glam from Sarah Jessica love a shoe so much. But the beauty Parker’s latest business move. is, as we have more and more retail The company she owns with George partners, we can try things and what DON’T MISS OUT ON THE Malkemus III, SJP Collection, debuted worked with Nordstrom might not work an exclusive line for Las Vegas-based with Zappos. What worked with Zappos NEW DAILY DIGITAL EDITION! Zappos’ luxury business, Zappos Couture. might not work with the Neiman It’s aptly named The Strip Collection. Marcus customer.” The Strip totals 24 pieces ranging Parker is adamant on the point about from $350 for styles like an almond-toe manufacturing in Italy, saying the idea On April 29th, the print edition of WWD will re-launch in a pump named Lady to $545 for the satin of moving it elsewhere to lower price Wittman adorned with Swarovski crys- points and broaden the customer base weekly glossy format. The final edition of the daily newspaper tals. The line launched Friday with the hasn’t been a consideration. opening of a two-day pop-up on the main “Not for a second,” she said. “We’ll go in its current format will be on April 24, 2015. level of the Aria’s Shops at Crystals. close the doors before we do it anywhere “It seemed right,” Parker told WWD. “It else. We are only doing it in Italy.... was amusing and the collection is some of Consumers are really, really smart. They our essential silhouettes that we’ve now pick up a shoe and they look and [if] it Beginning with the April 27th issue, we’ll produce a curated been producing for about a year, but we’ve says ‘Made in Italy,’ I think that’s a dif- used fabrications that very much tell the ferent experience for them.” Daily Digital edition of WWD that will reflect the top stories story of what people imagine Vegas to be As for the SJP Collection, while at night — fantasy and whimsy and deca- there’s no shortage of potential deals to dence and luxury and sparkle.” be done that would propel the company of the day. It will be emailed to you before you wake up each It could be a boon for SJP Collection into more categories, it’s taking a slower as it grows with broadened distribution tack. SJP Collection is already in candles business day! and possibilities for category expansion. and bags, the entire line of which is set Parker said the company expects to an- for a revamp to take it to a level that nounce another retail partner in the “we’ve really not gotten there enough” coming months. with, she said. In order to ensure that you receive the Daily Digital, “The dividend of this experience is “I think in the other areas of growth, that other retail partners see all these people have been hospitable about that, please go to wwd-email.com or call 1-866-401-7801 sparkly, beautiful shoes and they’re like but we’ve all seen mistakes that have ‘We’d like some for ourselves,’” she said. been made when you grow too fast,” to provide or update your email address. Parker and Malkemus launched SJP Parker said. “I think it’s really important collection in February 2014 and remain to shore up our base in the footwear cat- its sole owners. They began selling ex- egory first. It’s really fun to lay in bed at clusively in Nordstrom for about a year. night and dream about the possibilities, “We launched this brand and I had but the truth is, I want to get this right very specific ideas about it — color and as tempting as all the other offers, I as a neutral, single sole and not be- think we want to spend a little bit more traying it, that the shoes all be made time in the shoe category and the bags, in Italy... and that [the shoes] be re- which seem to go hand in glove so to ally comfortable,” she said. “And what speak, and then I think we’ll look at pos- we’ve learned is those ideas, for the sibilities for growth, but very carefully.”

WWD_QuarterPgAd3.indd 1 3/27/15 5:02 PM 10 WWD MONDAY, APRIL 20, 2015

Models in Burberry and members of Jourdan Dunn and Naomi Campbell the First Battalion Grenadier Guards.

Brit Stars TO FETE THE opening of its Rodeo ended the show wearing a collection of Drive fl agship, Burberry brought a eveningwear exclusive to the Rodeo Drive massive dose of British fl avor to one store. Even show-weary editors took notice eye of Hollywood’s most iconic locations, as Jourdan Dunn, Charlotte Wiggins, Malaika Firth, Griffi th Observatory. “I wanted to be Ella Richards and Amber Anderson strutted able to celebrate the store in a special out in fl oor-length tulle dresses with silk way because this is a showman’s city. embroidery and cutout bodices looking like This is where James Dean shot ‘Rebel luxe gypsies or canyon-dwelling California Without a Cause.’ That was such a big bohemians. For the men, there were slim fi lm moment, and I just thought if we velvet tuxedos trimmed in grosgrain. could bring a little of London to that Applause broke out when Naomi scenic environment, then that would Campbell closed the show, or so everyone be something extraordinary,” said thought, until the First Battalion Christopher Bailey Thursday night. Grenadier Guards entered playing drums He brought more than a little: and fl utes, then marched on as the far wrought-iron Georgian gates from wall opened to reveal the Observatory lit London gave way to English lavender with projections of British and American and rose gardens overlooking the fl ags. Surprise guest James Corden, who was Hollywood sign. Flutes of Champagne fi lming a bit for “The Late Late Show,” and several string quartets kept 600- brought up the rear. “That was beautiful,” plus guests — including the Beckham declared Elton John as the crowd made Rosie Huntington- Alison brood, Mila Kunis, Rose Byrne, Jason its way onto the lawn. “It was really Whiteley in Burberry. Mosshart Statham, Dylan Penn and Kate Beckinsale; mental. Not your average show,” said a gaggle of models (Cara Delevingne, Byrne. “It made me really homesick,” Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Suki said Huntington-Whiteley. Had Waterhouse), and a handful of she ever been to the Observatory? musicians (Jamie Hince, Ellie “Yes, I hike up here. Usually by Goulding, Matt Bellamy, Alison the time I get here, I’m sweating, Mosshart) occupied until sunset. but tonight, not so much.” “Now this says, ‘We are a fashion By now, the Guards had taken house,’ ” noted Ashley Madekwe off their black fur hats (or lent approvingly. “This is not some them to guests like Campbell, who cocktail soiree on a rooftop; this insisted on wearing one for photos) is Griffi th Park Observatory. It’s and were swilling drinks. “This is very grand.” probably the biggest engagement At dusk, guests were ushered we’ve ever been invited to, civilian- up a fl ight of stairs, into a custom- wise. Obviously, we do a lot of things built structure resembling the for the Royal family. But Burberry London runway venue. After fl ew us all this way to the Hollywood a good deal of shuffl ing and sign, which is totally surreal,” said schmoozing — teens Kiernan one of the soldiers. Shipka and Brooklyn Beckham said Marveled Cat Deeley, “They’ve got their hellos and Anjelica Huston all these medals on, and you turn hugged Elton John — around and go, ‘Bloody hell, they are the show began with really brave.’ ” FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE George Ezra, Tom Odell, Bailey, after the extravaganza, Clare Maguire and looked pleased. Elton John with Brooklyn, Cruz, WWD.com/eye. Benjamin Clementine Cara Delevingne “I told you we were going to do Romeo and Victoria Beckham in Burberry. serenading the in Burberry. something fun,” he said. models, who — MARCY MEDINA

Laura and Nathalie Love, both Anjelia Huston Kate Beckinsale and Christopher Bailey in Burberry. in Burberry. Jaime King in Burberry. and Clare Maguire RUNWAY AND BAILEY PHOTOS BY STEFANIE KEENAN/GETTY IMAGES FOR BURBERRY; BECKINSALE AND KING BY JEFF VESPA/GETTY IMAGES FOR BURBERRY; ALL OTHERS BY KATIE JONES KATIE ALL OTHERS BY IMAGES FOR BURBERRY; JEFF VESPA/GETTY BECKINSALE AND KING BY KEENAN/GETTY IMAGES FOR BURBERRY; STEFANIE AND BAILEY PHOTOS BY RUNWAY 2.5x7 (right)

WWD MONDAY, APRIL 20, 2015 11 WWD.COM Oscar’s Green Fairy FASHION SCOOPS THE NEW YORKERS for Children’s annual spring dinner on Thursday Alina Baikova in was held in honor of Oscar de la Renta, a Oscar de la Renta. longtime champion of the organization. NO BOX SEATS FOR WOODY: For diehard embellishes the entire facade. Painted But it was Diane Von Furstenberg — or at dance fans, the Youth America Grand in giant black and white mazelike blocks, least, her brand — that created the most Prix is a night at Lincoln Center that is the facade appears like an optical public buzz around the Mandarin Oriental’s not to be missed. Thursday’s Bulgari- artwork hanging above the sidewalk. grand ballroom as four women decked sponsored gala was no exception, with Inside, white terrazzo tiles and white out in their finest formal wrap dresses Paloma Herrera, Teresa Reichlen, Melissa walls provide a canvas for the colorful swanned around the room, trailed by a Hamilton and Isabella Boylston performing clothing hanging on open brass fi xtures. crew of cameras, boom mic operators at the David H. Koch Theater alongside The cashier’s table is cut from a rose- and PAs with waivers to be signed. up-and-comers in the “Stars of Today colored travertine stone, a key material Season two of E!’s reality show “House of Meet the Stars of Tomorrow” event. in all new Pucci stores. Located at 140 DVF” was well under way, and everyone The Bolshoi Ballet’s Evgenia Obraztsova NE 39th Street, the one-fl oor boutique at the Saks Fifth Avenue-sponsored and Semyon Chudin performed a pas de spans 1,600 square feet. The full Pucci event — Peter Copping, Arizona Muse, Sophie deux from “The Pharaoh’s Daughter”; spring collection is available, as well Theallet, Christine Schwarzman, Julie Macklowe, Mariinsky Ballet’s Xander Parish drew as special gowns, beaded caftans and Bibhu Mohapatra and Hailey Clauson — had the most laughs for his overachieving embroidered pieces that cater to the been unwittingly cast as extras. “Season performance in the New York premiere Miami clientele. The shop also features two is going really well — the girls are of “Ballet 101,” and fashion designer B. women’s and men’s swimwear and very cute,” said Jessica Joffe, unofficial Michael took a bow for his costumes worn resort pieces from the Orlebar Brown den mother to the contestants vying for by Joffrey dancers in Alexei Kremnev’s + Emilio Pucci collaboration, as well a chance to be a “global ambassador” of world premiere of the artistically-lit as sunglasses by the brand’s licensee, DVF. “We’re down to four, and tonight “Windy Sand.” Karen LeFrak, who wrote Marcolin. Pucci’s other two stores are in we’re watching them to see how they are the music, joined him on stage, and back Palm Beach and Aventura. In total, Pucci in a social setting like this, because this in her seat she had her own rooting has fi ve freestanding stores in the U.S. will be a big part of their eventual job.” section in friends Soon-Yi Previn and Woody and 28 internationally. — LISA LOCKWOOD By the time the dinner bell rang Allen. During the YAGP intermission, the and the contestants had retreated to director chatted with fans of his own WOOSTER IN SHANGHAI: Nick Wooster is their seats in the rear of the ballroom, genre. As it turned out, the New Yorker currently in Shanghai for the launch cameras in tow, the focus had returned is a bit of a modern dance buff, having of his Wooster + Lardini capsule to de la Renta, and his history with the studied with the late Martha collection at Strasburgo, organization. Nearby stood Alina Baikova, Graham. “But I was not very FOR MORE a Japanese-owned luxury the newly minted face of de la Renta’s good. I was the disgrace SCOOPS, SEE men’s wear boutique with latest fragrance, “Flor.” The Ukrainian of the class,” Allen said. two outlets in China. Wooster model lingered, looking statuesque in “Diane Keaton and I studied WWD.com. appeared in-store for a day of a slip dress — ODLR, of course — and for a couple of months. She style consulting and meet-and- perhaps a bit overwhelmed. “I don’t was quite good, but I was greets, fi rst in Beijing, where really know what it means,” she said embarrassing.” he visited the Strasburgo when asked how it felt to be the new The fi lmmaker’s own body of work store in Parkview Green, an upscale face of the brand. “It’s a pleasure for me, will be the subject of much introspection art gallery-cum-shopping mall in the but I don’t think it means something.” in Barcelona, where a museum of sorts commercial Chaoyang District. Now The gig had at least scored her an is being built in his honor. Still in the in Shanghai, Wooster’s visit centers invite for the evening, which raised blueprint stage, The Woody Allen Centre around the boutique in Yifeng Galleria, more than $725,000, and some form of will be housed in the city where he shot a heritage building on the Bund lingering familiarity among the crowd, Liu Wen and the 2008 Oscar-winning “Vicky Cristina specializing in designer men’s wear. as each guest took home their own Cora Emmanuel Barcelona.” Allen said he is of course This is the fi rst time that Wooster’s

bottle of “Flor.” — LAUREN MCCARTHY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY pleased, even though he can’t quite pieces are being sold through an picture the fi nished product. “Yes, but I’ve offi cial outlet in the country. Speaking only seen, you know, lines on the page. I’m with WWD at Strasburgo in Shanghai, 4/20 FRIENDLY: In order to fete April not good at that abstract….I can’t fi gure Wooster said: “It’s just been incredible. 20 — aka National Marijuana Day that out too well,” he said. “They look like It was my fi rst time in Beijing, at the MEMO PAD — High Times magazine will do just boxes to me so I can’t tell. But I’m beginning of this trip, and I went to see more than spark up a few joints. The sure they know what they’re doing.” Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, GRAYDON’S DOCUMENTARY PUSH: Vanity magazine has launched a petition to — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG the Great Wall. I’ve been to Shanghai Fair editor in chief Graydon Carter is free all non-violent marijuana users once before, but the views still amaze looking to get into the documentary from U.S. prisons. Posted on Change. WELCOME TO MIAMI: Emilio Pucci opened me. The Bund is just unbelievable. And game. Aside from long-publicized org as well as Hightimes.com starting its third store in Florida, in the Miami what’s so crazy is to think that right plans to produce a Nora Ephron Monday, the petition demands that Design District. Pucci’s famed Torre across the river, all of that’s only been documentary for HBO, Carter has U.S. Attorney General Loretta Lynch and print, originally designed in 1966, around for 10 years or so.” — CINDY KUAN been eyeing Walter Isaacson’s book “The California Attorney General Attorney Innovators: How a Group of Hackers, Kamala Harris free what High Times’ Geniuses, and Geeks Created the Chris Simunek estimates is “tens of Digital Revolution,” as another project. thousands” of prisoners. Simunek, who According to e-mails found on serves as High Times’ “Sordid Affairs Wikileaks between Carter and Sony Editor,” told WWD that he decided to chief executive offi cer Michael Lynton, pen the petition on April 20 because the Vanity Fair editor is interested in it’s the highest traffi cked time on the turning “The Innovators” into a four- magazine’s Web site. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. part TV series. Sony had procured “We need a groundswell — mass the rights to Isaacson’s book with pardons and mass releases — not on Columbia Pictures president Doug the scale of tens but on the scale of Check out Belgrad and producer Scott Rudin. thousands,” he said, explaining that In an e-mail dated Oct. 22, 2014, while it’s hard to know how many are the new DIGITAL Carter wrote to Lynton: “Don’t want to in jail, the underlying message is that intrude on your turf if you have other the inmates are not criminals. Branded Off-price Merchandise version of ideas for this, I will buzz off. But the “We want to them to free the wanted for our Louisville Outlet. Retail4LESS, Louisville’s biggest story of our age is the Internet. prisoners who have been jailed for NEW Outlet destination. And Walter’s book is the Best and the growing, smoking, selling — to us Our New York office is now open by appointment. The Brightest of that story. It can’t be done they are not quote-unquote crimes,” Contact Gary at 516.829.2400 in one documentary. But a four-hour Simunek said. “It’s getting to the point Take a look at our story at premier series, similar to what Bob Hughes did where this hypocrisy can no longer be www.retail4LESSoutlet.com. destination with the ‘Shock of the New’ might be ignored. Marijuana is legal in some the way to go.” places, but people are in jail. This is a for the fashion That same day, Lynton wrote back, xenophobic war that America has been PATTERNS, SAMPLES, industry’s Real Estate, adding that all three parties were waging against this plant since the PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. Business Opportunities, “very open to the idea of creating a Thirties.” Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 doc along the lines” Carter described. Simunek went a step further, calling and Help Wanted listings. “I leave it to you to work out the such imprisonment a “human right’s creative approach and the economics,” issue.” He even invoked President POST YOUR LISTINGS ONLINE NOW! Lynton replied. “It all sounded like a Barack Obama, saying, “If the president very good idea to me.” had been arrested for smoking FASHIONCAREERS.MARKET.ADICIO.COM “You are the man Michael,” Carter marijuana when he was young, he wrote back. would never have become president,” WWD reached out to Carter on Simunek noted. “For every person whether he is moving forward with the behind bars for marijuana, there is project. He declined to comment. a roadblock between them and the — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD American dream.” — A.S.