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The paper that can’t be bought! FREE! *Within Australia* 19th EDITION The Voice of the Great Barrier Reef 2006 And drifting world wide *INSIDE* Darwin Bound Ying & Yang cruising Market News Lettuce talk Platypus Cruises Wow! Wow! Wow! Getting Larried But surviving And all the other weird and rude surprises you expect from TCP! Cay Hickson photo TCP, for all boaties everywhere! TCP as always, covers the joys and hardships of boating. This What’s your story??? issue juxtaposes the amazement and joy of The Platypus crew as Free on line editions they commune with the gentle giants of Ningaloo Reef and the fear and destruction of Cyclone Larry. From Customs to Cockroaches It can’t be about you without you! to Market News and Black Tuesday Blues... it’s all inside! www.thecoastalpassage.com Great walks of the Whitsundays Isabelle on Spion Kopf track on South Molle Island- Dinghy Bay on Brampton Island cut into the side of a mountain. maintained paths and viewing of the island is moist, lush and very tropical lookouts offering magnificent views of are as tha t are wel l-s ign with its shady overhead canopy, and a Brampton and the neighbouring islands. The Story & Photos by Graeme and Isabelle posted. The variety of walks delightful variety of green leafy plants, vines summit track is all uphill, and may be best Hurst, SY “Quiet Achiever” will suit all interests with their abundance of and maiden-hair ferns. The track passes by planned as a separate adventure. It takes you tropical flora and fauna and scenic views that beautiful Dinghy Bay on the southern side of through more lush vegetation as you wind Your dreams have come true; you have are the stuff of glossy travel literature. The the island, which makes a very worthwhile your way endlessly upwards. The views are arrived at the Whitsundays and when walking tracks will suit most levels of fitness diversion, particularly if you remembered well worth the walk, and there are some safely anchored in one of the delightful and stamina, from the leisurely coastal stroll your birthday suit! Nearby there are picnic welcome seats at the lookouts to assist your sheltered inlets, you soon see the islands to the challenge of climbing a mountain. tables among a stand of tall hoop pine where recovery in the gentle breeze that often drifts are every bit as beautiful as your dreams the breeze usually provides cool relief as it in. Also look out for the 4000-year-old cyclad had promised. The handsome hoop pines We enjoy our walks and took the time to sighs through the shady trees. near the track in the grounds of the resort. and shady she-oaks right down to the search out many of them, and would like to water's edge, the tall peaks, crystal-clear share our favourite locations with you. The western side of the island is dry and South Molle Island water and white sandy beaches they are more sparsely populated with hardy shrubs all there beckoning. Now you are eager to Brampton Island and eucalypts that cling to the arid terrain. The only anchorage at South Molle is in the get ashore and stretch your legs, so are Look carefully and you may see a lace northern bay off the resort, so the walks all there any goods walks to be enjoyed? Brampton is one of the few islands with a path monitor quietly foraging in the undergrowth. start and end from across the golf course that allows you to walk right around the whole In the north-eastern corner of Brampton is the behind the resort. South Molle Island has a Yes is the answer. They seem to be a bit of a coastline. The track is well maintained and welcoming resort where you may relax by the number of lovely walks and our two favourites secret, but we have found that some of the relatively easy, but it is a longish walk taking pool with a cold drink, or take a refreshing are the Spion Kopf track, and the walk to the islands offer lovely walks that provide an about 2 3 hours, so it is advisable to take shower. summit. excellent opportunity to explore interesting some refreshments. Like all the islands in the and at times spectacular scenery while also Cumberland Group, the moist south easterly Leading off the circuit track near the airstrip continued next page... maintaining a healthy level of fitness. Most of trade winds prevail, creating some interesting is the summit track that leads up to the the islands are National Parks, and have well- diversity in the flora. The south eastern side highest point of the island with two splendid Page 2 The Coastal Passage #19 2006 Great walks of the Whitsundays Graeme studies the magnificent Hoop Pines along the Whitsunday Whitsunday Island overlooking Gulnare Inlet and Hamilton beyond Peak Track. Whitsunday Island overlooking Dugong Inlet with Hook Island beyond The Spion Kopf track is possibly the most branches above the track as you near the track is under the exciting walk in the Whitsundays, with much resort. tall canopy of the of it cut out of the side of a steep spur and forest and takes you past some magnificent offering unobstructed views across the Visiting sailors are welcome at South Molle, stands of Hoop Pine, perhaps the tallest spectacul ar coastline and surrounding and the pool is a great way to cool off after the that remain in the islands after the loggers islands. The grass trees are the dominant walk. Consider planning your visit for a Friday went through more than 100 years ago. Cid plant and their beauty adds to the exhilaration and enjoy the seafood banquet and South Harbour was once the site of a saw mill! of this walk. While the 90 minute walk winds Seas Island floorshow good fun! its way uphill to an impressive lookout, it is not After climbing the first peak, the track a strenuous walk, except for a steep section Whitsunday Peak drops down into a saddle before rising near the end. again for the strenuous haul up to the Nara Inlet, Hook Island Rising up from Cid Harbour, Whitsunday summit. At this stage the track is hard to The walk to the summit is longer and there is Peak is the tallest mountain in the area, and follow, requiring you to keep a lookout for Nara Inlet not much shade along the way, but the views the route to the top is by far the most the coloured ribbons in the trees marking the across to Shute Harbour and Daydream challenging! While the track appears well- way. The terrain is very rough leading up from One of the shortest of our favourite walks is Island make the effort worthwhile. Share the formed at the start near the camping ground, the saddle, and the person who marked the the walk up to the aboriginal cave on the Spion Kopf track to the junction and allow once you turn uphill at the junction, it soon track does not appear to have put much eastern shore of Nara Inlet. It is believed the about 2 hours for the round trip. On the return becomes a narrow, steep and difficult climb thought into avoiding the most difficult Ngaro aboriginals occupied the cave on their trip, look out for the colony of fruit bats in the over some very rough terrain. Most of the sections as you scramble over rocky fishing expeditions to Hook Island before outcrops rather than skirt around them. It all white occupation. There are remains of adds to the challenge and sense of aboriginal artwork on the cave walls, some of achievement once the trees thin out and you which have been touched up for better reach the pinnacle. Never be caught display. There are also some fine specimens of the ancient Zamia Palm (Calas Media) in From the summit, the views are magnificent the area. in every direction, and the whole Whitsunday Group can be seen clearly. Make sure you out on the water The track continues on past the cave where bring your camera as well as lots of water for there are several good lookouts offering fine this 4 hour round trip. views down Nara Inlet and some great photographs of your yacht at anchor. The Long Island again! path can be taken right through to the head of Nara Inlet where it meets a dry river bed that At last - an Onboard Sewage Treatment There are two good anchorages at Long has some rocky outcrops that form a large System that meets all government Island, and both are off resorts who make waterfall during the wet season. The regulations and doesn’t cost an arm yachties very welcome. To the north is Happy adventurous can follow the rocky creek bed and a leg! Bay and the Club Crocodile Resort, while for some distance inland. further south is the classy Peppers Palm Bay Only Resort in Palm Bay. The delightful forest A dinghy is required to get to the start of the walks are accessible from either resort. track which leads off a small beach up some There is also the highlight at the Peppers steps that have been formed into the side of 00 Palm Bay Resort of mooring close to the $ the rocky cliff. The walk to the cave takes beach with the stern of your boat tied to a about 10 minutes and is not hard, while you 1487 palm tree! All the facilities of this peaceful up- plus freight should allow up to an hour to explore the rest market resort are made available to you.