-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO

425 425

Ravenna Rimini © Lonely Planet Lonely © San Marino ( p459 ) Castell’Arquato Castell’Arquato (Parmesan). In the countryside In the countryside (Parmesan). EMILIA-ROMAGNA 22,121 SQ KM, EMILIA-ROMAGNA

Castell'Arquato SAN MARINO 61 SQ KM SAN MARINO AREA: 

( p473 )

( p464 ) Rimini ( p433 ) ( p466 )

Comacchio

Leave the flatlands behind and climb up Leave medieval village of in the picturesque cobbled streets the steep Survey the patchwork of fields and the distant blue Adriatic from your perch atop ) p473 castle walls ( San Marino’s bicycle from the town offices Grab a free and head for the beach in Stand awestruck beneath the stunning apse mosaic at Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe in Enjoy free concerts Enjoy free and open-air movies all summer long during Bologna’s annual festival Bologna Estate Contemplate the cargo from a 2000-year-old shipwreck and pose for photos on the whimsical shipwreck from a 2000-year-old the cargo Contemplate bridge in Trepponti

SAN MARINO 30,000 SAN MARINO POPULATION: EMILIA-ROMAGNA 4.3 MILLION EMILIA-ROMAGNA POPULATION:

     HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS  The regional capital, Bologna, is one of ’s unsung joys. A foodie city with a hedonistic is one of Italy’s unsung joys. capital, Bologna, regional The Much of its medieval architecture dates to the Renaissance, when a handful of power­ to the Renaissance, when a dates Much of its medieval architecture

 ham, popularly known as Parma ham) and parmigiano reggiano Parma ham, popularly known as (cured (cured the world prosciutto crudo the city that gifted await in Parma, gourmet delights that shortthe northwest, hop to Romanesque cathedral and a hint of the boasts a superb approach to life, it’s home to Europe’s oldest university and a stunning medieval centre. A and a stunning medieval centre. oldest university it’s home to Europe’s approach to life, Modena, and the Bentivoglio in Bologna. in Bologna. Modena, and the Bentivoglio ful families set up court here: the Farnese in Parma and Piacenza, the Este in and in Ferrara the Este and Piacenza, in Parma ful families set up court the Farnese here: resorts and quiet backwaters. resorts and quiet backwaters. area rich in art and culture, an area of mouthwatering food and robust wine, of cosmopolitan food and robust wine, mouthwatering of rich in art an area area and culture, Veneto and Tuscany. But take time to explore this underrated region and you’ll discover an and you’ll discover region underrated this But take time to explore and Tuscany. Veneto Emilia-Romagna has long been overlooked as little more than a stepping stone between the a stepping than as little more has long been overlooked Emilia-Romagna & San Marino Marino & San Emilia-Romagna saddle up and take to the road – cycling is one of the region’s most popular pursuits. most popular pursuits. saddle up and take one of the region’s to the road – cycling is earthy pleasures, or San Marino where armies of day-trippers enjoy vast views. Alternatively, Alternatively, armies of day-trippers enjoy vast views. San Marino where earthy or pleasures, a break, head to Rimini where the crowded beaches and cutting-edge clubs promise more the crowded beaches and cutting-edge head to Rimini more clubs promise where a break, centre, Ravenna for its sensational Byzantine mosaics. If, after all that high culture, you need all that high culture, If, after Byzantine mosaics. for its sensational Ravenna centre, within easy distance of Bologna and both merit a visit – Ferrara for its beautiful Renaissance for a visit – Ferrara within easy distance of Bologna and both merit and Ravenna are the highlights of Romagna (the eastern half of Emilia-Romagna). Both are of Emilia-Romagna). Both are half of Romagna (the eastern the highlights are and Ravenna to the south, castles pepper hilltops as flat plains give way to the Apennine peaks. Ferrara Ferrara way to the Apennine peaks. give to the south, castles pepper hilltops as flat plains EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO 426 WWII, up to40%of the city’sindustrial build­ joined thenewlyformed Kingdomof Italy. the endof the 18thcentury.In1860Bologna their controluntil thearrivalof Napoleonat Bologna in1506andthecityremained under family’s palacewasrazed,papaltroops took family,duringwhich the ruling Bentivoglio adopted neutralityinthe 14th century. papacy), goingagainsttheGhibellines, but by sidingwiththeGuelphs (whobacked the involved Bologna. Thecitystarted inevitably Roman Empire forcontrolof northernItaly thepapacyandHoly endless tusslebetween them inall,of whichtoday.The 22stillstand family leftitsmarkbyerecting atower–180of well-to-do abuildingboomandevery brought university aroundthe12thcentury.Wealth pendent communeandleadingEuropean Huns, Goths andLombards. cessively sacked andoccupiedbyVisigoths, Western Empire crumbled, Bolognawassuc­ before surrendering totheRomans.As the They lasted anothercoupleof hundred years from Gaultookover, renaming itBononia. the EtruscanPovalleyterritories untiltribes Felsina. of Fortwocenturiesitwasthecapital as Bologna startedlife inthe6thcenturyBC HISTORY source of studentagitation. and theuniversity, Europe’soldest,isstilla 1977, butthecityremains political, highly in cooled sincestudentsfaceddowntanks Passionstion forleft-wingmilitancy. have buildings), Bolognahaslonghadareputa­ political moniker asreference toitscolourful rainand shelter fromtraffic, summer heat. colonnaded walkwaysthatoffer pedestrians to explore onfoot,thankstothe40kmof wide, of Emilia’ssmallertowns.It’salsoagreat place ensure that’soften avitality missinginmany a large studentpopulationandactive gayscene it’sanattractive,nary capital, animated place; to thenorth’smore culi­ famouscities.Italy’s – porticoes Bologna isawonderfulalternative brick ofcityscapes –aneye-catching ensemble red- Boasting oneof thecountry’sgreat medieval pop 372,000 BOLOGNA During heavy inthelastmonths fighting of Following apopularrebellion againstthe The cityreached itspinnacleasaninde­ Nicknamed BOLOGNA •• History History •• BOLOGNA Renaissance towerspalazzi, Renaissance andarcaded

la rossa (‘thered’ –asmuch a

h enoteca bookshopwithitsowncafe, restaurant and three-level h & wi-fifree; .it/wireless; Palazzo D’Accursio,Piazza 6;internet Maggiore Register at the Iperboledeskinside Register Palazzo D’Accursio. on sixpubliccomputers,orthree hoursofwi-fiaccess. allowingonehourdaily government’s free internetservice, .cst.bo.it; Piazza 1e; Maggiore opposite AlbergoGarisenda’s elevator. hr €2.20;

Iperbole Internet Access Coop Librerie International Feltrinelli Bookshops INFORMATION Bassi anditscontinuation, Via Rizzoli. ter. Themaineast–westarteries are ViaUgo andtheuniversitypoint of quar­ ViaZamboni marksthestarting Ravegnana Piazza diPorta Maggiore, theheartof thecity.Justtoeast, leads toPiazzadelNettunoand Viadell’Indipendenza train andbusstations, ORIENTATION venue. tech industriesand isapopulartrade-fair lovingly and carefully preserved. andithasbeen town insidethewallssurvived ings were thehistoric destroyed.However, Centro Servizi per iTuristi Servizi Centro Tourist Information Post office Post Ospedale Maggiore Medical Services Train station Left Luggage iWash Laundry Liong@te Zamboni 7b; 2) West of the city centre; take bus19from 2) Westofthecitycentre; take Via Bassi. €0.60;

Bologna isbestexplored onfoot.Fromthe Today thecityisacentre hi- forItaly’s 9am-9pm Mon-Sat,10.30am-9pmSun) 9am-midnight Mon-Sat,to8pmSun)Brandnew

h ( Via Petroni €6.80; 38; wash&dryper8kg

(wine bar). h ( 6am-10pm) ( %

h (Piazza Minghetti 4) (Piazza Minghetti % h 10am-midnight) Up the staircase directly 10am-midnight) Upthestaircasedirectly (perbag1st5hr€4,eachadditionalhr 051 203184;www..bologna (

9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat)Themunicipal 051 407 01 61; Via Rizzoli 9; 051 4070161;ViaRizzoli internet per % 9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)

051 220131;ViaOrefici 19;

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( 051 647 81 11; Largo Nigrisoli 051 6478111;LargoNigrisoli

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800 856065;www lonelyplanet.com

EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO

427 427 Rimini SS72 Bellaria S E A ( p459 ), ( p473 ).

Cervia LE MARCHE A D R I A T I C SAN SS16 Marina di Ravenna Chioggia Po Delta MARINO Porto Garibaldi Valle Ravenna Abbazia di Pomposa Bertuzzi UMBRIA Ferrara Ferrara Savio Cesena San Marino ( p456 ). p456 Busseto ( Le Stanze ( p436 ). Stanze Le Valli di San Marino San Marino Po Delta ( p463 ). Adria Comacchio Codigoro One Week / Bologna Forli REGIONAL ITINERARY ITINERARY REGIONAL ( p449 ) before ) before p449 ( Faenza ( p468 ), where you ), where p468 Rimini (

A14 Po Po Rovigo Predappio SS16 EMILIA­ ROMAGNA A13 Ferrara

Reno Imola ( p446 ), pause to see the Unesco-listed, ), pause to see the Unesco-listed, p446 ( ( p435 ). A1 VENETO SS64 (pumpkin-stuffed pasta) and you might (pumpkin-stuffed

Via Emilia Bologna END

( p430 ) loading up on foodie p430 ( Quadrilatero

( p464 ), whose ensemble of churches holds ), p464 ( Panaro Panaro FLORENCE producer ( p456 ). Next day, explore the hilltop fortresses of ). Next day, explore p456 ( A1 START Tolè Ravenna Ravenna

) or Giuseppe Verdi’s villa outside ) or Giuseppe Verdi’s SS9 Scilla

Prato

Secchia Carpi Modena SS623 cappellacci di zucca cappellacci p459 Roffeno Rocca di ( Terme Gaggio A22 Porretta Montano

TUSCANY Po Po Suzzara Maranello Pistoia A11 La Sorbetteria Castiglione Castiglione La Sorbetteria Emilia Monte Mantua

Reggio Cimone (2165m) Guastalla Canossa

Castello di

Canossa ia Lucca Pietra di Bismantova (1047m) Pisa Castelnovo ne'Monti Secch Castell’Arquato

Gigante Parma

Parco del ( opposite ): Italy’s culinary capital and the region’s most dynamic city. Get most dynamic city. region’s Italy’s culinary capital and the ): opposite (

za za LOMBARDY n E

30 km dell’Appennino Tosco-Emiliano

Parco Nazionale

Parma Parma Castello di Torrechiara A12 A15 Livorno 15 miles A21 Busseto Langhirano Schia Sant'Agata di Villanova sull'Arda Bologna ( p452 ) and Cremona

Fornovo Torre degli Asinelli degli Asinelli of 97.6m-high Torre climb the spiral staircase ), then p428 ( Maggiore Piazza SS62 Monchio Fidenza delle Corti A1 Castell'Arquato Next, head west into Emilia’s agricultural heartland, home to the fabled triumvirate of Parmesan, Next, Emilia’s agricultural heartland, head west into of Parmesan, the fabled triumvirate home to Bounce back east into Romagna and join the sea of cyclists in bike-friendlyBounce back east into Romagna Mosaic lovers will rejoice at the sight of will rejoice Mosaic lovers in the last afternoon Back in Bologna, spend your S E A Begin Begin in REGIONAL ITINERARY ITINERARY REGIONAL BEYOND BOLOGNA & ) or go to the Galleria Ferrari in Modena p446) or go to the Galleria Ferrari 12th-century cathedral in in Parma Regio of opera at the Teatro an evening acquainted with its crenellated palaces and two dozen surviving in palaces and two dozen towers at ground level medieval with its crenellated acquainted central at the city’s tastebuds your indulging ) for spectacularevening Spend the bird’s-eye views. p431 ( 17th-century chapel at in the converted or sipping wine legendary eateries prosciutto and balsamic vinegar. After visiting a local After prosciutto and balsamic vinegar. Canossa ( p460 ) and other legacies of the Este dukes are best visited on best visited dukes are and other legacies of the Este ) p460 ( Estense Castello the showy where Fortifytwo wheels. some yourself with bike paths 50km furtherfollow the riverside to east into the just be ready cup of to a sweet dream–inducing yourself to treat for your friends, and don’t forget presents from Bologna’s best ice cream an incomparably vibrant collectionan incomparably vibrant of early Christian artwork and gold. Trade in dazzling green down the coast in for the Adriatic’s glimmer an hour glitter Ravenna’s the club circuit at nearby Riccione, or leave blue sea, hit the lively can dip your toe in the deep at the views from the fortifiedcountry (briefly) to gawk of hilltop republic Piacenza Via Emilia Bardi L I G U R I A N Castello 0 0 La Spezia lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO Palazzo D’Accursio after itsoriginal resi­ Maggiore, Bramante’s 16th-century staircase wasde­ Bramante’s 16th-century staircase in1580, whileinside, Donato main portal the Gregorian calendar,was placedabove the prelateXIII, theBolognese responsible for of16th centuries.The statue PopeGregory current looktomakeovers inthe15thand of architectural styles,itowesmuch of its to Bolognacitycouncilsince1336. Asalad dent, FrancescoD’Accursio) home hasbeen continents of the pre-Oceania world. thefourknown nipple,symbolise from every winds andfourbuxomsirens, water spouting god,fourcherubs representmuscled sea the the sculpted byGiambolognain1566.Beneath astirringbronzestatue (Neptune’s Fountain), Nettuno owesitsnametothe out inthe13thcentury. times,itwaslaid find yourselfpassingseveral A lively which pedestrianhubthrough you’ll pointforsightseeing. and anobvious starting Piazza Maggiore isthecity’sprincipalfocus ofand aseries impressive Renaissance Flanked bytheworld’sfifth-largest basilica Piazza Maggiore&delNettuno SIGHTS office Tourist office. adjacent tothemaintourist service Mon-Sat, 10am-2pmSun)Afree hotelbooking 428 airport 60; Piazza 1e);trainstation Maggiore Forming thewestern flankof Piazza Adjacent toPiazzaMaggiore, Piazzadel

     IN EMILIA-ROMAGNA OUR TOPFIVEFOODIEEXPERIENCES

( OON • Sights •• BOLOGNA (the fatone) hand whytheycallthiscity taurants ( p435 ), anddiscovering first­ Exploring Bologna’shundreds ofres­ producers near Touring balsamic-vinegar andParmesan Sorbetteria Castiglione Tasting flavoursat all18ice-cream Museo delParmigiano Museo delProsciuttotoSoragna’s Museum-hopping –fromLanghirano’s latero district Garibaldi ( p456 Quadri­) orBologna’s Shopping thedelisofParma’s %

051 6472113);PiazzaMaggiore Palazzo Comunale (www.bolognaturismo.info;

( p430) Modena ( p446 )

(

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( p458) 45) Bologna ( p435), Fontana delNettuno (knownalsoas 051 251947) ‘la grassa’ ( % h Via Via 051 2396

9am-7pm); La palazzi,

greatest church. Dedicated tothecity’spat­ 54 42; the GothicBasilicadiSanPetronio temporary exhibition on. tothepublicunlessthere’s a are off-limits theacousticsare amazing.Both per: diagonallyoppositeStand someoneandwhis­ where twoperpendicular passagesintersect. the Beneath nal residence of Bologna’schief magistrate. neighbouring period,the 1249 and1272.Datingtothesame II, whowasheldhere bypapalforcesbetween mate sonof HolyRomanEmperorFrederick Enzoisnamedafter KingEnzo,theillegiti­ Re this very spot. resistance occupation,manyon toGerman photos of hundreds of killedinthe partisans of artist Bolognese Giorgio Morandi. Morandi, dedicated tothetrademarkstilllives ings, sculpture andfurniture, andtheMuseo collection of 13th-to19th-centurypaint­ Collezioni Comunalid’Arte two directly uptothe 1st floor. signed toallowhorse-drawncarriages toride of the leap year. the Juliancalendar andledtothecreation indiscoveringstrumental theanomaliesof andDomenico Guglielmi,itwasin­ Cassini the eastern aisle. Designedin1656by Gian dial thatstretches 67.7malongthefloorof and Jacopo diPaolo. Note alsothehuge sun­ frescoes byGiovannicontain da Modena Old andNewTestaments; inside,chapels Madonna andChild andscenesfromthe Jacopo dellaQuercia,boastsa beautiful oddly. out poking apses semiconstructed you cansee and ifyouwalkalongViadell’Archiginnasio As aresult completed thefacadewasnever new university onthebasilica’seastern flank. IV blocked constructionbycommissioning a years after buildinghadstarted,PopePius St Peter’s inRome,but1561,some169 Originally itwasintended tobelarger than finished. itwasnever Surprisingly, though, 47m, it’stheworld’sfifth-largest basilica. andmeasuring132mby66m ron saint h Dominating thepiazza’ssouthernflank, thesquare,Over the13th-centuryPalazzo del Outside thepalazzo,three large panelsbear On the2ndflooryou’llfind The central doorway, carved in1425 by The centraldoorway,carved 9am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6.30pmSat&Sun) 9am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, art galleries galleries art h 7.45am-12.30pm &3.30-6pm) whispering gallery palazzo, there’s awhispering Palazzo delPodestà

( % 5 03 9 admissionfree; 051 203629; withitsinteresting

lonelyplanet.com wastheorigi­ isBologna’s

( palazzo’ % palazzi 051 22 : the s

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

& SAN MARINO

UMBRIA UMBRIA (100km)

(90km) (30km)

Livorno Livorno

Perugia To Piombino Piombino To To Siena Siena To

TUSCANY TUSCANY

429 429 (40km);

A1 A1

To Arezzo Arezzo To LE MARCHE MARCHE LE

(40km)

To Ancona Ancona To

Pisa S E A A E S

FLORENCE FLORENCE

L I G U R I A N N A I R U G I L

A11 A11 MARINO Lucca Lucca

SAN SAN

Prato Prato

Pesaro Pesaro

Airport

Pistoia

Fellini

Cattolica Cattolica

Federico Federico San Marino Marino San A12 A12

SS72

Riccione

Rivazzurra Rivazzurra Secchia Secchia La Spezia Spezia La

Rimini Rimini

Predappio Predappio Genoa

Terme

Viserba Viserba

SS16 SS16 Gulf of of Gulf

Porretta Cesena Cesena

A1 A1

(2165m) Bellaria Bellaria ��

BOLOGNA BOLOGNA •• Emilia-Romagna Scilla

Cimone Forli Forli

Montano Monte Monte Tosco-Emiliano

Gaggio Gaggio dell’Appennino

Cervia Parco Nazionale Parco

Roffeno

A14 A14

Faenza Faenza

Via Adriatica Adriatica Via A12 A12

Rocca di di Rocca

Savio

Tolè Tolè

Gigante

Corti Corti

Imola Imola

SS623 SS623

Parco del Parco Enza Enza delle delle

Monchio Monchio Pietra di Bismantova (1047m) Bismantova di Pietra

Ventimiglia (180km) Ventimiglia

RAVENNA RAVENNA Castelnovo ne'Monti ne'Monti Castelnovo

Schia Schia

To Genoa (30km); (30km); Genoa To

Via Emilia Emilia Via

Vignola Vignola

SS63 SS63

Marina di Ravenna di Marina LIGURIA LIGURIA SS62 SS62 Val Parma Val SS665 SS665

Maranello Maranello

Tizzano Tizzano

di Rossena di

BOLOGNA BOLOGNA

San Vitale San

Berceto

Castello

Pineta

Canossa

Pastorello Pastorello

Cassio

SS9 SS9 Stazione Stazione

Castello di di Castello

S E A A E S Langhirano Langhirano

Ciano Ciano Bardi

Comacchio

SS16 SS16

Emilia Emilia

Castello Castello

Parma Parma Terenzo

Valli di di Valli

Delta del Po del Delta Reggio

A D R I A T I C C I T A I R D A

SS64 SS64 MODENA MODENA Fornovo Parco del del Parco

Castello di Torrechiara Torrechiara di Castello Porto Garibaldi Garibaldi Porto

A15 A15

Comacchio Comacchio

Reno Reno Collecchio Collecchio

Bobbio Bobbio

Bertuzzi Carpi Carpi Castell'Arquato Castell'Arquato

PARMA PARMA

Valle Valle

Salsomagglore Terme Salsomagglore

Secchia Secchia A22

Gorino Gorino

Trebbia Trebbia Panaro Panaro

Fidenza Fidenza

Fontevivo

FERRARA FERRARA Codigoro

Pomposa

Fontanellato

(135km) Abbazia di di Abbazia

Colorno (75km); Turin (75km); Soragna Soragna A1 A1

Guastalla (50km); Genoa (50km);

Roncole Verdi Roncole

Po Delta Po To Alessandria Alessandria To

Busseto

Via Emilia Emilia Via

Po Po

Suzzara A13 A13

PIACENZA PIACENZA Villanova sull'Arda Villanova

Sant'Agata di di Sant'Agata

Adria Adria

VENETO

SS10 SS10 Po Po A21 A21

Rovigo

Po Po Cremona

Mantua

A21 A21

(15km) (35km) (25km) LOMBARDY LOMBARDY (40km)

Chioggia Chioggia To Milan Milan To To Padua Padua To To Verona To To Brescia Brescia To

EMILIA-ROMAGNA EMILIA-ROMAGNA 0 0 20 miles 20

0 0 30 km 30 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 430 BOLOGNA •• Sights lonelyplanet.com

BOLOGNA ‚ A B C To A13; SS64; D Main Train Ferrara (55km) Station SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Vi r" S" a Manz i 17 on Via Sant' Alò Basilica di San Domenico...... 8 C4 denza Vicolo 6 7" Basilica di San Petronio ...... 9 A2 en i" ‚ ‚ #H 66 p <" Mandria 6666 1 15 Basilica di Santo Stefano...... 10 C3

33 54 70 # Piazza

Indi 8" # Biblioteca Comunale...... (see 21)

69 XX Settembre Via la l e A Via 7" M Cappella di San Domenico.....(seedo 8) Via M # o ‚ a dell' ila as Via U zzo Piazza di 1 Via C B ini r Bas old g si nd ri Chiesa della Trinità...... (see 10) erdan ni 71 À" n Porta 58 i # l Piazza del Via Ri Chiesa di San Francesco...... a 11 B3 # o Ravegnana t 20Via i zzoli To MAMbo (200m); Nettuno Don 68 S as #pM Q" Chiesa di San Giacomo in 24 a n z i o Via Ob ni i" l G Ame Arcigay & Arcilesbica i n l # Q" i Quadrilatero 27 V 13 e 19 #H g # (300m); Cassero Maggiore ...... 12 C3 i 7 4 s Parco della

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Porta V # Via de 40 g 14 ' P ie o i e ‚ À" ti ‚ ‚ Saragozza 56 e V p d z l i 66 6a 6Via Cartoleria Piazza San a Vi i A a To A14; a S ' 34 a To Trattoria ar zza b C t ago gl i Domenico a @" V r a Forli Airport s ll i Meloncello (1.4km); Basilica a a Ta t e INFORMATION M d <" i @" t (70km); Rimini G g S a 8 36 s Santuario della Madonna a i i l a a i a n (120km) i di San Luca Centro Servizi per i Turisti ...... (see 7) V V o C t V n a o (3.5km) e S Feltrinelli International...... 1 B1 Vi te @" fa 4 Iperbole ...... 2 A2 n !0 Vi @" 38 o ale A iWash...... 3 D3 37 Al 31 Vicolo del Falcone Librerie Coop...... di 4 A1 i" Via ni ‚ Or i" Liong@te ...... (see 27) feo 32 666 Post Office ...... 665 B2 6 6 Tourist Office ...... 6 C1 Tourist Office ...... 7 A1 The Quadrilatero and Roman artefacts and one of Italy’s best To the east of Piazza Maggiore, the grid Etruscan collections. 6of streets around Via Clavature66 (Street of A few doors down, Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio Locksmiths) sits on what was once Roman is the result of Pope Pius IV’s project to cur­ Bologna. Known as the Quadrilatero, this tail the Basilica di San Petronio. Seat of the bustling district is one of the centre’s most city university from 1563 to 1805 (notice enticing – colourful market stalls and deli­ the professors’ coats of arms on the walls), cious delis open onto cobbled medieval it today houses Bologna’s 700,000-volume streets lined with trendy cafes, swish bars and Biblioteca Comunale (Municipal Library) and neighbourhood eateries. the fascinating 17th-century Teatro Anatomico (%051 27 68 11; Piazza Galvani 1; admission free; h9am­ South & West of Piazza Maggiore 6.45pm Mon-Fri, to 1.45pm Sat), where public body Running south off Piazza Maggiore, Via dissections were held under the sinister gaze dell’Archiginnasio leads to the Museo Civico of an Inquisition priest, ready to intervene if Archeologico (%051 275 72 11; Via dell’Archiginnasio proceedings became too spiritually compro­ 2; admission free; h9am-3pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6.30pm Sat mising. Cedar-wood tiered seats surround a & Sun) with its well-documented Egyptian central marble-topped table while a sculp­ EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO

431 431 7am­ 9am­ Torre h h (admission

, which houses, which . This austere . This austere Basilica di Santo Cortile di Pilato is

is open to the pub­ was one of the first the first was one of

BOLOGNA BOLOGNA •• Sights

, an atmospheric medieval 051 22 17 62; 051 22 17 62; San Francesco; Piazza Chiesa del Crocefisso 051 614 23 39; Via di San Luca 36; 051 614 23 39; Via di San Luca Basilica Santuario Madonna della di 051 22 32 56; Via Santo Stefano 24; % ( % 2.30-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Feb, to 6pm Mar)2.30-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Feb, (

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9am-6pm, to 5pm Oct-May) 6.30am-noon & 3-7pm) 6.30am-noon &

h About 3.5km southwest of the city centre, city centre, the of 3.5km southwest About From the two towers, head southeast along From the two towers, Chiesa di San to the west, the Chiesa di San Some way h houses a representation of the Virgin Mary, Mary, the Virgin of houses a representation churches – hence the basilica’s nickname Sette churches Entry is via the Chiese – but only four remain. 11th-century and leads through San Petronio the bones of to the Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro as started life probably octagonal structure a baptistry. Next door, the are unmistakable the landmarks. The taller of are two, the 97.6m-high Torre degli Asinelli €3; lic, although it’s not advisable for the weak- or superstitious 498 steps) are kneed (there says if you climb the tower students (local lore Built by the Asinelli you’ll never graduate). family between 1109 and 1119, today it leans 48m neighbouring The 1.3m off vertical. Garisenda its bounds given is sensibly out of 3.2m tilt. drunken for the Via Santo Stefano Stefano seven were complex. Originally there religious supposedly painted by St Luke and trans­ supposedly Luke by St painted from the Middle Eastported Bologna in to sanctuarythe 12th century. The 18th-century to the city walls by the world’s is connected be­ by 666 arches, portico, held aloft longest bus Take ginning at Piazza di Porta Saragozza. Villa Spada, from to 20 from the city centre minibus (buy the you can continue by where on board) to the sanctu­ ticket €3.40 return stop on continue one more ary. Alternatively, walk the and arch bus 20 to the Meloncello arches. the 2km under remaining University Quarter Piazza di Porta Ravegnana, Towering above LeBologna’s two leaning towers, Due Torri, tableaux of the choir stalls. Mozart When the choir tableauxof academy, the city’s music a month at spent organ. played the church’s he occasionally in Italybuilt in the French to be churches of include the tomb Features Gothic style. 14th­ V and a remarkable Pope Alexander century marble altarpiece depicting sundry St Francis. of saints and scenes from the life the hilltop San Luca Francesco 12.30pm & 12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm)

m 2 3 4 1 s 0 e l 0 i 4 m B3 B2 B3 B1 B2 B1 B3 B3 B2 B1 B3 B1 B2 C2 C4 C4 C1 C2 C3 C1 C2 C4 C2 C1 C2 C2 C2 A2 A4 A2 A2 A2 D2 D3 D3 2 . 0 64 65 62 63 70 56 57 61 69 40 41 38 39 59 67 68 42 43 46 52 53 54 66 44 45 48 58 37 51 71 60 55 47 49 50 F À f ?8 rini ...... (seerini 43) Baker Jazz Club.... ina Bentivoglio ...... ina Bentivoglio toria del Rosso...... duce Market ...... duce Market 0 0 ANSPORT Castiglione...... u-Lounge Bar...... Paolo Atti...... Le Sfogline...... I Campetti ...... I Campetti Hertz...... La Baita...... Cinema Chaplin...... Corto Maltese...... Gilberto...... Budget...... Osteria de' Poeti ...... Osteria de' Poeti P122@s...... Marco Fadiga Bistrot..... Mercato delle Erbe ...... Mercato delle Erbe ATC ...... (see 71) ...... ATC Autorimessa...... Pincio Teatro Comunale ...... Teatro Comunale Tamburini...... Trat DRINKING ...... Bravo Caffè Osteria L'Infedele...... Terzi...... Aerobus Shuttles...... ATC ...... (see 66) Trattoria Fantoni ...... Trattoria Fantoni English Empire...... Kinki...... Tambu Main ...... Bus Station Marsalino...... N La Sorbetteria Pro SHOPPING Enoteca Italiana...... TR Cant ENTERTAINMENT Chez La Scuderia...... Le Stanze...... 051 640 04 11; Piazza San Domenico San Domenico 051 640 04 11; Piazza B3 B1 B1 B3 B4 C4 C4 C4 A2 A2 A1 A2 A1 A1 A1 A2 A1 A2 A1 D3 D2 D4 D3 D2 24)

29 30 28 36 22 24 35 27 14 13 34 25 32 16 18 23 33 17 19 21 31 15 26 20 % (

... (see ... E i @ 9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat , built in 1238 to house the remains of San of , built in 1238 to house remains the TING rre Garisenda...... EEPING ntana del atro (seeAnatomico..... 21) Nettuno ...... Nettuno Rosa...... di Seta ...... di Seta Archeologico...... Cecilia...... Nazionale...... Medievale...... dell'Archiginnasio...... Mamolo d'Arte...... (see 19) San Pietro...... Drapperie...... useo Morandi ...... (see 19) ...... useo Morandi A short walk south brings you to the Basilica h Hotel Porta San Albergo Rossini...... Hotel Orologio ...... Hotel Orologio Whispering Gallery...... (see 6) Albergo Panorama...... Godot Wine Bar Metropolitana di di Metropolitana Drogheria della Il Convento dei Fiori Fiori Il dei Convento Museo Civico Museo Civico Oratorio di Santa Palazzo Poggi...... Pinacoteca EA M Museo Civico Museo Civico SL Gelateria...... Grom Albergo..... Garisenda Fo Palazzo Hammam Bleu ...... Hammam Bleu Collezioni Comunali Comunali Collezioni Albergo Centrale...... delle Albergo Torre degli Asinelli To Prendiparte B&B...... Te Palazzo Comunale...... Palazzo del Podestà....(see 6) Palazzo ... del Re Enzo Notice, too, the intricately executed wooden executed Notice, too, the intricately a host of artists. carved Michelangelo artists. angel the a host of the altaron the right when he was only 19. of is in the Cappella was de­ di San Domenico, which signed by Nicola Pisano added to by and later & Sun) the Dominican order, Domenico, founder of sarcophagus who died in 1221. His elaborate di San Domenico 13; subsequently rebuilt. wood. The theatre, and many of the building’s and many of wood. The theatre, WWII and was destroyed during frescoes, The canopy above the lecturer’s chair is sup­ chair the lecturer’s The canopy above carved by two skinless figures ported into the tured Apollo looks down from the ceiling. tured

lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com

66 EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO include Ludovico’s the viewingpublic. Workstolookoutfor emotional, designed toappealthepietyof and theirimagery isoften charged highly and 16th century.Much of theirworkisreligious inthelatter Italy halfof through the sweeping influenced bytheCounter-Reformation were baroqueart,theCarraccis deeply Italian Annibale. Amongthefoundingfathers of cousinsLudovico,Carracci Agostino and bythe late-16th-century canvases important century onwards,includinganumber of artistsfromthe14th works byBolognese h ( physics. and architectureto shipsandoldmaps,military are dedicatedprises to befoundinmuseums ofthe Museum NaturalSciences. Furthersur­ shellsin andgianttortoise Obstetrics Museum where waxworkuteri inthe youcanperuse 10.30am-1.30pm&2.30-5.30pmSatSun) & 2-4pmTue-Fri, poggi.unibo.it; ViaZamboni33;admissionfree; at down theroadtouniversity museums and theirimagery bold and unabashed. remarkably goodnick,theircolours vibrant andherhusband Valeriano,Cecilia theyare in Depicting thelife andTechnicolor deathof St 1pm &2-6pm) Santa Cecilia 16th-century frescoes intheadjacent were mainlyresponsible forthemagnificent pair (knownasIlFrancia).Thesame Raibolini Lorenzo byFrancesco andanaltarpiece Costa chapel withfrescoes by istheBentivoglio light collection of paintingsandartefacts. Thehigh­ h Giacomo Maggiore the13th-century Via Zamboni, once served as altars. ably oldertombsof inthesideaisles twosaints ing dates fromthe11thcentury.Theconsider­ thebulkof thebuild­ masonry andcarvings, city’s oldest.Incorporatingrecycled Roman , isthe fourth church, eAgricola theSantiVitale a modestcloister andasmall courtyard, the the 8th-century Lombardartefact. Beyond condemning Christtodeath.Infact,it’san tohavePilate issaid washedhishands after named after thecentralbasininwhich Pontius 432 % Palazzo Poggi Palazzo Poggi Pinacoteca Nazionale onthearttrail,Pinacoteca Back For abreak fromecclesiasticalarthead To thenorthof thebasilicacomplex,along 8.30am-1pm &3.30-6.30pm) 9am-7pm Tue-Sun) 051 420 94 11; Via delle Belle Arti 56;adult/child€4/2; 051 4209411;ViadelleBelleArti BOLOGNA •• Activities Activities •• BOLOGNA

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h Oratorio di Oratorio 10am-1pm h 10am­ ,

rotating exhibits showcase theworkof exhibitsshowcase rotating up­ former municipalbakery, itspermanentand inacavernous Housed newest museum. free; di Bologna; the historicalcentre, MAMbo 10am-6.30pmSat&Sun) 3pm Tue-Fri, ( oppositeit stands the a landmarkthansomewhere out, tosearch opment manytimesover thecenturies.More h San Pietro di Bologna’s cathedral,theMetropolitana A shortwalknorthof PiazzaMaggiore, North ofPiazzaMaggiore works. little-known are alsorepresented, butbycomparatively ElGreco of(Ecstasy andTitian StCecilia). as wellRaphael’s worksbyGiotto, gallery you’llfindseveral byAnnibale. Ludovico ElsewhereSan inthe St Jerome) byAgostino andthe GirolamoComunione diSan ing tours inEnglish(€13). Groupsassem­ Various outfitsoffer guided, two-hourwalk­ TOURS for afullweek of classes. from €80forasinglefour-hour courseto€250 courses forEnglish speakers. Pricesrange 49) Via Malvasia Bolognese a goodplacetolearncook.LaVecchia Scuola Notonlyagreat placetoeat,Bolognaisalso opposite . theboxedand theregion asawhole,see text, at€50fora Prices start rubdown. half-hour Sat &Sun) mam.it; VicoloBarbazzi4; ACTIVITIES artists. and-coming Italian scrub atHammamBleu Take timeouttorejuvenate and withasauna cfi slabs. coffin andmedieval battle armour,bronzestatues by Jacopo dellaQuerciaandthecollectionof interest are inthemuseum the finefrescoes the 15th-centuryPalazzo Ghilisardi-Fava. Of COURSES % For informationoncyclinginBologna Further up,nearthenorthwestern edge of 8.30am-noon &4-6.15pm)

051 219 39 30; Via Manzoni 4;admissionfree; 051 2193930;ViaManzoni h 10am-6pm Tue-Sun, to10pmThu) , aTurkish bathinthe historiccentre.

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% isoneof schools thatoffer several 051 649 66 11; Via Don Minzoni 14;admission 051 6496611;ViaDonMinzoni

051 6491576;www.lavecchiascuola.com; 051 222112;Viadell’Indipendenza9; h Estasi diSanta Cecilia noon-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm noon-10pm Mon-Fri,

( hassuffered redevel­ % Museo Civico Medievale CivicoMedievale Museo 051 580162;www.ham

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051 32 50 16; 051 50 18 10; % ( % camp sites per adult/

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Some 6km north of the centre, the centre, Some 6km north of ) (July to August) A small-scale jazz fest A three-month to mid- (mid-June

BOLOGNA BOLOGNA •• Events & Festivals

pi Ostello Due Torri-San Sisto SLEEPING ; [email protected] organised by four venues in and around Via Mascarella in Via Zamboni. the university quarter northwest of September) program of concerts, film projections, dance performances Held in open-air venues and much more. Touristthroughout the city, many events free. are offices carry details. €16/25/42; Accommodation in Bologna is geared to the to the Accommodation in Bologna is geared to midrange with a glut of market, business op­ budget few and precious top-end hotels the busy spring and tions. If possible, avoid seasons,autumn trade-fair when prices sky­ and advance booked heavily get hotels rocket, reservations fair sea­ essential. Outside of are up to 50% discounts of offer son, some hotels rates. weekend and attractive Budget Centro Turistico Città di Bologna ; www.hotelcamping.com child/tent €8.50/5/13, 2-person bungalows €50-90; well-equipped camp ground is on This large, town, 6km from the train the north side of station. facilities include a bar, mini­ On-site bus 68 from the Take and newsagent. market main bus station. Bologna Estate Salotto del Jazz

(1:200,000; €7) published by the Touring Club of Italy. published by the Touring (1:200,000; €7) Solemn

www.trambusopen

(bicycle tourism) trend, Emilia-Romagna offers excellent excellent offers Emilia-Romagna trend, cicloturismo (bicycle tourism) Emilia-Romagna

– A 75km descent from the Apennine spa town of Porretta Terme to Terme Apennine spa town of Porretta – A 75km descent from the 051 35 08 53; 051 275 02 54; www.guidearte. % ( 051 22 09 64; www.lachiocciolasnc 347 8944094; infoprimaclasse@libero % ( % % ( ( Outlined below are a couple of routes, one flat, one downhill, which can be modified to make downhill, which can be one flat, one of routes, a couple are Outlined below Bologna. Take one of the regular trains from Bologna to Porretta, then hit the road for Gag­ to Porretta, trains from Bologna one of the regular Take Bologna. 20km before turn right onto the SS623 and follow for about Gaggio At Montano via Silla. gio Tolè, the road continues for about 36km and Tolè. From di Roffeno turning off right for Rocca back to Bologna. Into the Apennines – A 45km trip through the villages of the Po valley. From Bologna train – A 45km trip through the Bologna–Ferrara di Corticella, and Via station head north go under the A14 auto­ Giacomo Matteotti along Via continue Once there Maggiore. and follow the signs for Castel strada, to the left of the A13, a further 21km. If you don’t want to then to Ferrara, and in Casale for 13km to San Pietro the east coast. could go on to the Po Delta, about 50km away on head back to Bologna, you

runs an hour-long, hop-on-hop-off bus runs an hour-long,

  PEDAL ROUND THE REGION REGION ROUND THE PEDAL of Italy’s the forefront At and the the flatlands of the Po Delta encompassing geography is mixed, region’s The cycling. of bike-hire repair points, hundreds are excellent. There Apennines, and facilities are peaks of the and transporting widespread your bikeon the rail network. is easy shops are Tourist offices can get hold of a decent regional you’d be advised to and basic maps, although supply itineraries the best is map; one of them less challenging.

Trambus Open

.com) tour of the city departing from the train sta­ tour of can be (€10) tion several times daily. Tickets on board. bought processions takein Bologna’s major to the city streets the fifth on the Saturday before Sunday festival religious and Sunday. after Easter and the following Wednesday

Celebrazioni della Madonna di San Luca gious processions. Summer is generally the gious processions. Summer is generally Big events a party. include best time to catch the following: endar with gigs ranging from street raves to raves endar with gigs ranging from street jazz concerts, ballet performances and reli­ FESTIVALS & EVENTS and varied events cal­ Bologna has a lively Prima Classe two-hour cycle also organises Call rental). ahead (€20 including bike tours to reserve a minimum of your spot; there’s three participants. Prima Classe Le Guide d’Arte La Chiocciola ble outside the main tourist office on Piazza ble outside the main tourist booking required). (no Maggiore at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book .it) English-language tours 11am Monday and Friday, 3pm language and Thursday. German- (4pm in summer) Tuesday and Saturday. tours 10am Tuesday .com) Meets 10.15am Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. .com) Meets 10.15am Wednesday, Saturday and com) Meets 3pm Saturday. com) Meets 3pm EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO 60, d€75-120; centralebologna.it; off Via Rizzoli. The entranceisin acovered shoppinggallery rooms withcomfy bedsandmodestfurniture. no-nonsense towers, hasseven theGarisenda room €85-110) bathroom €45-55,dwithout€65-85, dwithbath­ 9;swithout delLeone, ViaRizzoli ; 3rdfl,Galleria garisenda.com breakfast. buffet quet floors, modernfurniture andanample sun pourin. benefit fromair-con thatlet the andskylights tuckedthose undertheeaves upstairs, which Verdi. Downstairs roomsare mustierthan Rossini iswellplacednearstudentyPiazza mid-Jul–mid-Aug; .com; ViadeiBibiena11;s€40-75,d€70-100; Rossini Albergo Midrange 12.40am) opposite the train station. hourlyfrom8.40pmto or bus21B(evenings, Irnerio, bus301(Sunday)fromthestation (Monday toSaturday,until8.20pm)fromVia are modern,functionalandcheap. Take bus93 Bologna’s twoHIhostels, barely 100mapart, 434 room €50/70/80/90) ramabologna.it; 4thfl,ViaLivraghi1;s/d/tr/qwithoutbath­ rooms at Albergo Centrale comewithpar­rooms atAlbergo Centrale ily payalotmore, thelarge old-fashioned central locationforwhich youcouldeas­ French are spoken. with bathroomcosts€10extra. Englishand towers andfloweryterraces. Theloneroom many offering lovely viewsof nearbypalazzi, pensione withexceptionallyspaciousrooms, Albergo Garisenda Albergo Centrale Albergo Albergo Panorama Albergo GAY BOLOGNA night andonFridaysthere byinternational are gayandlesbianartists.’ concerts events. The Cassero ( p445 ) isvery popular–WednesdayisthebignightbutThursday islesbian level, Bolognahasavivaciousgayscene. There are gaynightsatmanyclubsandlotsofcultural various collectives suchasCarniscelte, an Then there’s theMovimento IdentitàTransessuale(MIT;Movement forTransexualIdentity)and counsellingandHIVadvice.branches ofArcigayandArcilesbica,whichprovide healthservices, past several years. ‘The cityishometonumerousgroups,includingthenationalandBologna withArcigay(Italy’sbiggestgay-rightsorganisation) forthe who’sbeenworking gay activist ‘ Bologna isthecentre ofItaly’ssocialandpoliticalgaymovement,’ saysMaurizioCecconi, a OON • Sleeping •• BOLOGNA For more informationcheckout But, asMaurizioisquicktopointout,there’s more togaylife thanpolitics. ‘Onthecultural Intheshadowof Bologna’sleaning

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; ViaIVNovembre 10;s€103-327,d€169-357; rthotels.it .albergodrapperie.com; Via delle Drapperie 5;s€60-105, ViadelleDrapperie .albergodrapperie.com; d €100-350; VicolodelFalcone.hotel-portasanmamolo.it; 6-8;s€70-180, SanMamolo Porta Hotel Top End frescoes. ceiling ings, theoccasionalbrickarch andcolourful 21 attractive roomswithwood-beamed ceil­ this welcomingthree-starhas establishment heart of theatmosphericQuadrilatero district, breakfast perperson€5extra; d €75-140, .prendiparte.it; Via Sant’Alò7;r€300) .prendiparte.it; location. downtown chocscomplimentary andanunbeatable swirling grey andwhite marblebathrooms, nished inelegantgold,blueandburgundy, smartroomsfur­ with itsslickservice, pile justoffPiazzaMaggiore guests seduces run byBolognaArtsHotels, thisrefined paiW tiles. mosaic with linensheets andbathroomsfeature cool fixtures;and snazzymodernlight bedscome alongside Mapplethorpe-style flowerphotos of sharpdesign.Religious-inspired frescoes sit 14th-century convent, IlConvento isamodel 440; well. stone quil gardenwithfloweringtrees andanold windows andflowerboxes overlook atran­ and plentyof charm. Roomswithshuttered refined hotel offers solidthree-star comforts at thehistoricalcentre’s southernedge, this .silkflowersnunnery.com; Via Orfeo 34;r €130-270, ste€280­ .silkflowersnunnery.com; ViaOrfeo Albergo delleDrapperie Albergo o Orologio Hotel Il Convento dei Fiori di Seta diSeta deiFiori Il Convento a ) orlogontowww.cassero.it.

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051 223955; a 051 589023;www 051 272039;www ) Right inthe Right

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EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO

In 435 435 palazzo, 051 23 32 57; Via d’Azeglio

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Specialising in Locals queue up With its wooden 051 22 01 18; Via Rialto 051 22 25 29; Via Cartoleria % ( 051 27 34 37; 051 23 61 66; 051 23 61 %

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BOLOGNA BOLOGNA •• Eating % % Bologna’s branch of this of Bologna’s branch ( ( %

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h Osteria de’ Poeti Drogheria della Rosa Gelateria Grom Marco Fadiga Bistrot Marco Fadiga Godot Wine Bar you! Yes, there’s a great wine selection, with a great there’s you! Yes, 13; scoops out some as­ gelateria Torino-based all made with scru­ toundingly tasty flavours, pulously sourced ingredients. meals €40-50; the board and up on daily specials chalked an emphasis on Italian but Godot vintages, Bologna’s premier as one of has also emerged concoc­ whipping up extravagant restaurants, datterini di patate, rombo in crosta tions like semi-confit, olive nere e salsa al prezzemolo (turbot in a potato crust with semiconfit of parsley). and black olives dates, Gelaterie o day and night at this award-winning gelateria, on energy its creative focuseswhich all of the gianduia (chocolate­ Taste 18 flavours. with whole hazelnuts in­ hazelnut ice cream side) and you’ll be an instant convert. difficult to picture this place as the pharmacy difficult to picture it’s a charming, that it once was. Nowadays high-end trattoria, run by an affable English- happily go throughspeaking owner who will ultrafresh sweetthe day’s short, of menu with you. Expect superbly prepared choices Bolognese as tortellini classics such of versions balsamic vinegar. with or steak 23; meals €35-40; fine wine and seafood, bar to from its oyster Royal its let-out-all-the-stops Grand Plateau that includes combo platter (an extravagant imaginable), every seajust about creature is ideal for a eatery this elegant yet relaxed romantic dinner. the wine cellar of a 14th-century a of the wine cellar place is an atmospheric eatery this historic a table by the Take local fare. to enjoy hearty from and order stone fireplace impressive as staplesa selection such of di Parma e prosciutto fiori zucchini di zucca, courgettes (pasta pumpkin flowers, with frequent feature ham). Evenings and Parma live music. and bottles, it’s not apothecaries’ jars shelves, meals €30-40; meals €30-40; 10; meals €35-40; Via Castiglione 44;

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closed Sun & dinner Mon) 051 22 45 89; (the fat one), Bologna is (the fat one), Bologna la grassa This trendy spot under the porti­ This trendy and mix it with Trattoria del Rosso

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o The university district northeast of Via northeast of district The university catessen also has a classy self-service lunch early or be here a table get canteen. To grab to queue. prepared tasty – if pricey – pasta, meat and fish dishes. tasty – if pricey – pasta, meat and coes near Piazza Maggiore attracts a fashion­ coes near Piazza Maggiore pizzas and able local crowd with its wood-fired P122@s meals €35-45) MIDRANGE the vegetarian options are a welcome sight in are options the vegetarian meat-obsessed city. a such in the city. The daily fixed-price lunch and and lunch in the city. The daily fixed-price exceptional value and dinner menus (€10) are nially popular trattoria is said to be the oldest food at welcome prices. The atmosphere’s food at welcome prices. The atmosphere’s clash of and the decor is an agreeable jovial modern art. and clutter

BUDGET Trattoria Fantoni Restaurants hard-up students and gourmet diners alike. alike. diners hard-up students and gourmet the sumptuous delis For foodie gifts head to in the Quadrilatero. and a full, dry sauvignon blanc. the area and tortellini is a speciality. The hills and tortellini the area nearby produce the light, fizzy Lambrusco red sauce sauce della (baloney or Bologna sausage) hails from celebrated for its cuisine. Spaghetti bolognese for its cuisine. celebrated even call the meat if locals was born here, EATING Known as book well in advance. advance. book well in outstanding views from the terrace up top. A outstanding views from the terrace a honeymoon or anniversary; spot for dreamy kitchen and lounge) is spread over three floors floors three over is spread and lounge) kitchen levels to explore, more nine are and there up and prison halfway with a 17th-century a room at this unique B&B, you get an entire an entire get B&B, you at this unique a room (bedroom, area The living tower. 900-year-old Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Rizzoli harbours hundreds of restaurants, restaurants, of hundreds Rizzoli harbours to catering trattorias, takeawayscafes and meals €15; Righi 30; meals €16-18; the centre, Via del Pratello is a long-standing is a Via del Pratello the centre, with pubs, trat­ hang-out packed bohemian is a the best, Fantoni One of torias and bars. dishing up classic Italian eatery much-loved h EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO presso withplumandcinnamon). to toywithacaffè conprugnaecannella (es­ unusual range of coffees, Terzi isagreat spot top jazz joint, the Bentivoglio isajackof all top jazzjoint,theBentivoglio h known delis (see p445 known delis(see ). nightly), thismuch-lovednightly), institution oozes costs €28)andpart jazzclub(there’s live music bels), partrestaurant (thedailyprix-fixe menu trades. Part fromover winebar(choose 500la­ onits cocktails midnight terrace.porticoed frompredinnerfor everything Lounge attractsachic, stylishly dressed crowd of swish cafes several intheQuadrilatero, Nu- football broadcastsongamenights. ranges fromjazztoblues,interrupted onlyby line thewallsandcool,eclecticsoundtrack the hours withaglassof wine. Vintage adverts h hours.the wee the surroundingcolonnadedsidewalksuntil energy of itsyouthful patrons,whospillonto university-district pubhumswiththeraucous this ontap, bothGuinnessandBass Serving and free wi-fi. ing columns,vaulted ceilings,artyphotos image-conscious students,itfeatures tower­ Alltheragefamily’s formerstables. with happening bar-cafe occupiestheBentivoglio dressier sceneheadto the Quadrilatero. out fromPiazzaVerdi. Foramore upmarket, congregate alongthecluster of streets fanning something tosuityourtaste. Thirsty students a cosywinebarorswankcafe, you’llfind Bologna. Whetheryou’re after araucouspub, DRINKING &Sat) Mon-Wed, Fri market of PiazzaMaggiore harbours adailyproduce ket. Alternatively, theQuadrilatero area east Mon-Wed &Fri) ( Via UBassi27; delleErbe Stock uponvictualsattheMercato Self-Catering 436 There’s noshortage of placestodrinkin bentivoglio.it 4b; ; ViaMascarella Mon-Fri, to12.30pmSat) Mon-Fri, Nu-Lounge Bar L’Infedele Osteria English Empire La Scuderia Cantina Bentivoglio Cantina Terzi 7pm-3am) 8am-1am Mon-Sat) BOLOGNA •• Drinking Drinking •• BOLOGNA

( Via Clavature; ( % Avery agreeable spottowhileaway 051 236470;ViaOberdan10;

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ist offices and some hotels, is a useful quar­ist officesandsomehotels, isauseful Guest of Bologna,available free fromtour­ nightlife andathrivingtheatre scene. tion ensures andenergetic acosmopolitan ENTERTAINMENT 11am-3am; a modestrestaurant at 8pm. morphs intoawinebarat6pm,andbecomes watering holethatopensasatearoom at4pm, chameleonlike, Marsalino isalaid-back & dinnerTue-Sat, dinnerSun,lunchMon) live jazzandafull food menu. and soft, Ittoofeatures subtlelighting. regular winebarwithreda sexy walls,blackfurniture late) ceilings andshelves fullof winebottles. cosy charm withitsancientbrickfloors, arched house musicandthe Sunday house gay night. scene, withartexhibitions, videoprojections, remains attheforefront of Bologna’s club and reinventing after 50years, itself Kinki Zamboni 1a; (9pm to10.30pm). happyhour commercial soundsandnightly 9/2a; cally costsaround€15foraweekend night. funkanddisco.rock, house, Admissiontypi­ from’70spoptoundergroundeverything to suityourstyle. Theclubslisted here offer Whatever yourscene, you’llfindsomewhere Nightclubs able atnewsstands. Bologna Spettacolo avail­ (€1.50,inItalian), The mostcomprehensive listingsguideis 2night Magazine inItalian). (www.2night.it, terly guide towhat’son,asisthemonthly vibrant cities.Thelarge studentpopula­ Bologna isoneof mostculturally Italy’s family’s private chapel. astheBentivoglio hintatitsearlieruse coes the mainbararea, where 17th-centuryfres­ or embracetheexpansive chapel-chic vibein people-watch alfresco atthesidewalktables, can hideawayonvelvet backroomcouches, sign concept;dependingonyourmood,you rooms atthishipcornerbarhasitsownde­ Le Stanze Le Stanze Marsalino Bravo Caffè Kinki Kinki Maltese Corto Across from Cantina Bentivoglio, Bravo is Bentivoglio, AcrossfromCantina h 9pm-3am)

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(Continued on page 445)

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) 051 24 54 00; www.autostazionebo.it 051 24 71 01; Via G Amendola 12f ) 051 24 71 01; Via G Amendola 12f 051 26 60 43; Via Belvedere 2) 43; Via Belvedere 051 26 60

Frequent trains from Bologna serveFrequent cities Bologna is a major transport junction for Bologna is a major Major car-hire companies are represented represented companies are car-hire Major On Friday and Saturday there’s a flea and a flea Saturday there’s On Friday and

% % % hours) and Milan (regional €13.50, 2¼ hours; €13.50, 2¼ hours; and Milan (regional hours) one hour). Eurostar €37.10, throughout for details, Emilia-Romagna; see & Away listings under indi­ Getting There vidual cities in this chapter. at Guglielmo Marconi airport and outside at Guglielmo Marconi the train station. City offices include ( 25 48 30; Via G Amendola 16a) Train Eurostar serv­Thanks to a high-velocity ice, Bologna is only an hour from Florence by train, making it an appealing point of planning a tour visitors entry for overseas of Tuscany. and has half-hourly services train €5.40, 1½ hours; (regional to Florence Eurostar €18.10, one hour), Rome (regional Eurostar €50.40, three hours; €23.20, five daily from Gatwick) and Ryanair (one daily daily from Gatwick) and from Stansted). Bus the main bus station from busesIntercity leave ( XX the train sta­ just southeast of Settembre, tion. However, destinations, the for nearly all option. train’s a better Car & Motorcycle and to Milan, Florence Bologna is linked The A13 Rome by the A1 Autostrada del Sole. and Venice, Padua to Ferrara, heads directly Bologna and the A14 to Rimini and Ravenna. con­ is also on the SS9 (Via Emilia), which nects Milan to the Adriatic coast. The SS64 to Ferrara. goes ( oil, and olive wine and 23 59 89; Via Marsala 2b) wine. regional selection of della Montagnola at the Parco antique market VIII Agosto. that seeps into Piazza & AWAY GETTING THERE Air Bologna’s the city. Nonstop flights from London of (three Airways on British available are 647 96 15; www.bologna-airport.it)

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h % ( Saturday and Wednesday are the Wednesday are Saturday and Tamburini Tamburini %

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Elsewhere, Elsewhere, For foodie buys head to the Quadrilatero, For foodie buys head to the Quadrilatero, Jazz fiends should make for Cantina make fiends should Jazz Cassero h % Monday from September through May. through May. Monday from September Belvedere 7b) Belvedere Via Drapperie 5; 8pm, closed Sun Jun-Aug) 1; Drapperie 6; a haven of delis and speciality food shops, delis and speciality food shops, of a haven including dell’Indipendenza, Via Massimo d’Azeglio, dell’Indipendenza, Via Massimo You can safely and Via San Felice. Via Farini after­ on Thursday your wallet behind leave shut. are noons, when most shops Bologna’s main shopping streets are Via are streets Bologna’s main shopping Via Bassi, Via Rizzoli, Via Marconi, Ugo SHOPPING

Bologna has a year-round cultural calendar. cultural calendar. Bologna has a year-round Comunale Teatro Respighi 1) Theatre & Opera the city centre; shows art-house films in their the city centre; original version.

.it; admission €5) Cinemas Cinema Chaplin its own summertime Porto del Jazz festival. festival. del Jazz its own summertime Porto Bentivoglio (see p436 ) or Chez Baker Jazz Club Bentivoglio (see p436 ( music and hosts live frequent features which canned, plus a garden for outdoor chilling. outdoor chilling. canned, plus a garden for Italian; Via della Barca 1; and live and music, screenings film of floors Hosts concerts and weekend DJ nights. Hosts concerts and weekend of-town club (bus 25 from main train station). Arcigay organisation. (but not exclusively) club, home of Italy’s of club, home (but not exclusively) Minzoni 18; night Sun-Tue) (Continued from page 436) lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com big nights at this legendary gay and lesbian gay big nights at this legendary Baita ; Via Gardinobologna.it 65b; admission €7) for the first time in Italy, is Bologna’s main for the first opera and classical music venue. Via Stalingrado 83; EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO bought onboard). bought .Apart fromabrief Napoleonic in 1598,after thefamilylost Ferrara tothe ofthe capital amuch-reduced Este duchy tobe Prosperity came when itwaschosen Este familylate inthefollowingcentury. tothe in the12thcenturyandthenpassed Itbecameafree city in the2ndcenturyBC. alongtheViaEmilia rison townsestablished Modena wasoneof of aseries Romangar­ Unesco WorldHeritage– listed cathedral. and reason foravisit,isthestunning enough azzas andimpressive centre, thickwithmarket vibrant pi­ stalls, cityandyou’llfindalively medieval affluent factoriesthatringthis pasttheunsightly Get pop 179,900 MODENA WEST OFBOLOGNA CAT RadioTaxi phoneCotabo To bookataxi, Taxi withthe train station city centre. 30 andAare thatconnectthe amongseveral andonViaMarconi.bus station 25, Buses mation booths the atthemaintrainstation, ATC bussystem, runby Bologna hasanefficient Public Transport station. bus €13/18; ( hours. 24 and make for unlimited tripsoncitybuses parkindesignated Limitato), spaces Traffico that entitlesyoutoenter theZTL(Zonaa hotel canprovide aticket (€7perday) hicles. Ifyou’re downtown,your staying Much tove­ of thecitycentre isoff-limits Car &Motorcycle 20-minute journeycosts€5(tickets canbe minutes 5.30amand11.10pm.The between Guglielmo Marconi 15to30 airportevery shuttles Aerobus To/From theAirport GETTING AROUND 446 depart from the main train station for depart fromthemaintrainstation % Some 40kmnorthwestof Bologna, Pincio You canhire abike atAutorimessa

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( % lonelyplanet.com parmigiano 059 20312;

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, inItalian) (www.modenaterradimotori.com

Via Cervetta 5;s/d/tr €80/110/145; Via Cervetta

Viale Moreali 41;s/d/tr/q€48/80/100/125,

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( 059 238447;www.hotel % 059 210303; 059 234598;modena@ ) Thisfamily-run

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mamma. There’s nomenu;justaskwhat food you’dexpectfromamid-1950sItalian homemade thekindof no-nonsense serves trattoria,which affordable stairs tothissweet, duce market? acrossthestreet Straight andup­ for lunch after amorning shoppingatthepro­ meals €17; drunk chilled and with everything. alively, sparklingred,is Lambrusco, tobe pone produces excellentprosciutto crudoandzam­ bygourmets,butthecentrebest inItaly also product isaceto balsamico,considered the gastronomictown.Itsmostfamous portant Like BolognaandParma, Modenaisanim­ Eating &Drinking Parking costs €12. cious terrace overlooking thegardenoutback. paintings, sparklingchandeliers andaspa­ elegance withitsacres of marble,gilt-framed exudesold-school stitution, theCanalgrande €190-220; hotel.it; CorsoCanalgrande6;s€114-132,d€154-180,jrste available for €12. fresh andgarage parkingis fruitinseason, Breakfast featuresincluding flat-screen TVs. contemporary look,withmodernamenities this welcomingboutiquehotel boastsacool, Within astone’sthrowof PiazzaGrande, (ih mushrooms). (with trevigiano Vegetarians canopt forrisottoalradicchio speciality –bollitomisto (mixed boiled meat). marmalade before moving onto thehouse andfig cheese antipasto of pecorino salami, is whatyoupayforatDanilo’s.Tuck intoan inawarm,old-fashioned diningroom served 29-31; meals€25-30; fresh at the market. The menuchanges dailydependingonwhat’s nonstop stream of banter withthecustomers. platesjuggles andorders whilekeeping upa older couplerunstheplace–she cooks,he northern edge of downtown Modena. An into asinglewood-panelledroomatthe littlelunch spot,tuckedfabulous, affordable meals €20; todayand take yourpick. they’re serving meals €25-30; Trattoria Aldina Trattoria Hotel Canalgrande Trattoria Ermes Trattoria Ristorante daEnzo Ristorante daDanilo Ristorante (stuffed pig’strotter).(stuffed Anotherspeciality aiW

h h h (with red chicory) orai funghi lunch Mon-Sat) lunch Mon-Sat)

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( ) ( % Avenerable in­ Modenese ( % ( % Mon-Sat) %

059 23 80 65; Via Ganaceto 89; 059 238065;ViaGanaceto ( 059 236106;ViaAlbinelli40; % 059 217160;www.canalgrande Where dolocalshead 059 225177;ViaColtellini 17; Here’s yetanother 059 225498;ViaColtellini Traditionalfood

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449 449 059 37 . % (

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More than 60 years on, Ferrari has become the world’s ultimate status symbol, its prancing become the world’s ultimate has than 60 years on, Ferrari More models on Modena’s Piazza Ferrari latest On Sunday in April and May, you can catch the . There’s another cluster of bars along Via bars of another cluster . There’s the chequered flag in Brescia. May also sees the flag in Brescia. the chequered cars that starts and finishes in Modena. FERRARI MOTORS INTO HISTORY INTO HISTORY FERRARI MOTORS by the best workplace (2007) Europe’s Voted tory was established by Enzo Ferrari in 1943, 14 years after he had founded the company that he had founded the company that in 1943, 14 years after tory was established by Enzo Ferrari road car to roll off in 1947, the 125S became the first Ferrari Four years later, bears his name. the production line. black horse logo (taken from an emblem used by Italian WWI ace Francesco Baracca) a modern of all time – as of 2009 has also become the most successful racing team motoring icon. Ferrari Championships, nine 24­ it had won 14 Formula One Constructors’ Championships, 14 Drivers’ Mans races and eight Mille Migliahour Le races. May’s outing during an extended get versions venerable More Grande. ) lemiglia.it Modena’s fresh-produce Modena’s fresh-produce Hostaria Giusti A youthful bar-hopping crowd congregates crowd congregates A youthful bar-hopping Antica Pasticceria S offers mainly drama. mainly drama. offers Entertainment of a back alley is one of Modena’s most be­ a back alley is one of of parties at only private It hosts eateries. loved you can sit on the dinnertime, but at lunch attached deli, which dates to the 1600s, this to the 1600s, this dates which attached deli, unassuming-looking while main opera venue is is main opera venue ; Corso Canalgrande 85) 30 10; www.teatrocomunalemodena.it During July and August, outdoor concerts and Modena’s on Piazza Grande. staged ballet are Emilia, near the cathedral. Irish Pub late) along Via dei Gallucci at places like 2.30pm Mon-Sat year-round, 4.30-7pm Sat Oct-May)2.30pm Mon-Sat year-round, 4.30-7pm main entrance on Via Albinelli. the child in anyone. in anyone. the child Emilia 77; to satisfytooth, with enough delectable cakes back patio and savour regional specialities like specialities like regional back patio and savour al lambrusco fritto con zabaglione cotechino (fried Modena sausage with wine-flavoured egg custard). such as such in balsamic vinegar) and regarded restaurant is known for its classic, for its classic, is known restaurant regarded to dishes translates which cooking, regional burro e salvia with butter tortelli (pumpkin and sage). lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com meals €50-60; 15) EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun) ViaFarini.re.it/turismo; 1a; Tourist office Tourist Information ning in1406. the 400years itcontrolledthetown, begin­ of wasbuiltbytheEste Reggio familyduring Roman colonyalongtheViaEmilia. Much asa town startedlife inthe2nd centuryBC to thesouth. forexploringtheApennines practical base not really awholelotto ically harmonioustowncentres. Whilethere’s Emilia boastsoneof theregion’s mostaesthet­ public buildingsandaleafypark,Reggio ofWith itsseries attractive squares, grand pop 162,300 home byprisoners. walls,extracted fromlettersmuseum’s written the profoundly moving quotes thatcover the versions (inEnglish, French of andGerman) Nov-Mar) 10am-12.30pm&2.30-5.30pmSun & 3-7pmSunApr-Oct, Concentration Camp experience of prisoners inthenearby Nov-Mar) 1pm &3-7pmFri-Sun child €3/2; PoliticoeRazziale al Deportato square, Rome andVenice’s Piazza San Marco. thirdlargestItaly’s after PiazzaSanPietroin . Measuring 270mby60m,thepiazzais Martiri 2.30-6pm Mon) 2; ( Information isavailable fromthe easy andworthwhiledetourfromModena. ies, theattractive townof makes Carpi an Once thecentre of thePiofamilyterritor­ pop 65,800 Carpi minutes). 30 take bus800(€2.30, Modena’s busstation Ferrari. a of own theworld’spopulationthatdoesn’t tothe99.9% the companyfactoryisoff-limits collection of Ferraris. Justdowntheroad, 450 Postoffice % h Known also as Reggio nell’Emilia, the Known alsoasReggio Running downtheeastern flankof the Maranello is17kmsouthof Modena. From 059 649255;www.turismo.carpidiem.it; 9.30am-1pm &3-6pmTue-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pmSun, WEST OF BOLOGNA •• Reggio Emilia Reggio •• WEST OFBOLOGNA

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Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels WEST OF BOLOGNA •• Reggio Emilia 451

0 400 m REGGIO EMILIA 0 0.2 miles

‚ A B C ‚ D To SS9; A1 To Mantua (55km) INFORMATION SLEEPING i

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F lia I e o E I a s Police Station ...... 1 D5 h R t ‚ 3 L d c V i a u a i SS9

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South of Langhirano,South of the road down follow heightsFurther south still, the around The mountains here are criss-crossed with are The mountains here views of the Apennines and has some exqui­ and the Apennines of views Sights by Dominated 13th-century town hall, its two martial bronze horses. named after though most of the present structure was built structure the present though most of in the 15th century. PIACENZA pop 100,300 border with the regional of Just short Lombardy, Piacenza is worth a quick stop­ cen­ Its picturesque area. in the if you’re over boasts a beautiful Gothic town hall and a tre august churches. couple of walk from the old town, an easy 15-minute Piazza dei Cavalli, where the central square, you’ll find the tourist office .comune.piacenza.it/english; plus 9.30am-12.30pm Sun year-round, 1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sat & Mon Apr-Sep) Spezia, in good weather. It’s a possible base Spezia, in good weather. that lakes the 20 glacial for exploring some of the province. of dot the southern corner walking with ri­ and cycling tracks and dotted is to follow a section trek fugi. An interesting the signed Romea, or the Via Francigena, of heading south to an ancient pilgrim route Fornovo, Collecchio, of Rome via the villages Cassio and Berceto, each Bardone, Terenzo, The tourist with a small Romanesque church. ) can advise on maps p454 ( office in Parma and accommodation. h & Sep, 2-6pm Sat & 10am-6pm Sun Mar-May & Oct, & 10am-5pm Sun Nov) site frescoes in the Camera in the frescoes d’Oro (Golden site also a smart restaurant-cum- Room). There’s the B&B here, 25; s/d ; Strada del Castello 50 15; www.tavernadelcastello.it €55/90) crossing the river the Parma, of the west bank to and continuing at Pastorello that offers Apennine village , a charming Parma pleasant walking in summer and reasonable skiing at winter Parma, also merits a mention. Soaring above also merits a mention. Soaring above Parma, from 898, al­ the surrounding town, it dates Monchio delle Corti views as far as La offer

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0524 9 74 50; adult/child €4/3; A combined ticket for the first three Verdi Verdi three for the first A combined ticket Just north of Langhirano,Just north of the majestic The first port of call is port of The first TEP buses from Parma run along this route route run along this TEP buses from Parma Verdi’s villa, Verdi’s In Busseto, there are a couple of sights couple of a are In Busseto, there , it would , it would Busseto towards Continuing

% South into the Apennines he composed many of his major works, is in his major he composed many of 87; by guided tour only adult/child €4/3; 87; by guided tour only adult/child 93 11 17; Via Roma 119; adult/child €4/3; 93 11 17; Via Roma 119; adult/child search, but scheduled to reopen in 2010. One search, to reopen but scheduled by Pier Maria built or rebuilt many castles of in the 15th century, it commands great Rossi Castello di Torrechiara re­ of at the time damage due to earthquake south of Parma along the SS665. While the Parma south of town itself it has an interest­ is unexceptional, local ham ing museum history of tracing the ). p458 text, production (see the boxed and remote villages. It’s ideal for unhurried villages. and remote it the best out of exploring, although to get a car. you’ll need countryside to the south of Parma is pep­ Parma countryside to the south of with medieval churches castles, ancient pered A relatively unexplored area, the mountainous the area, unexplored A relatively once on Sunday. 4.30pm Sat & Sun Nov-Feb) six times daily from Monday to Saturday, and , in Italian; Piazza Verdi 10; Verdi , in Italian; Piazza www.bussetolive.com 2­ Mar-Oct,1pm & 3-6.30pm Tue-Sun 9.30am-12.30pm & venues costs €8.50. For more information, For more costs €8.50. venues contact Busseto’s west of Busseto. Busseto. west of Sant’Agata di Villanova sull’Arda, 5km north­ di Villanova Sant’Agata Tue-Sun Mar-Sep,Tue-Sun Oct 9.30-11.30am & 2.30-4.30pm Tue-Sun Sat & Sun Jan) & Nov, 9.30-11.30am & 2.30-4.30pm Verdi 22; admission €8; Verdi patron and site of Verdi’s first concert, it’s concert, first Verdi’s of patron and site museum curated filled with now a lovingly Verdi memorabilia. & 3-6.30pm Tue-Sun) Sun Nov-Feb) 3-6.30pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct,3-6.30pm Tue-Sun 9.30am-1pm & 2.30-5pm Tue- dedicated to the great composer. The most composer. to the great dedicated Verdi famous is the stately Teatro Verdi, 5km beyond Soragna. Soragna. beyond 5km Verdi, Sat & Sun Dec-Feb) Giuseppe Verdi was born in 1813. Now a was born in 1813. 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% % is a brief hop to the south. % ( ( ( , in Italian) 800 211173; www.tempi.piacenza.it EAST •• BOLOGNA OF Ferrara

0532 76 23 22; Via Ragno 14; per hr €4; ( Viale Cavour 27) Viale ( % (

% ( on the main square facing the castle. the castle. facing square on the main 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-1pm & 2-5pm 8.30am-1pm 8.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Thu, 9am-7pm Mon-Fri) Internet. 9am-7pm Mon-Fri) The Este dynasty ruled Ferrara from 1260 dynasty ruled Ferrara The Este in 1598, Pope Clement fell When the Este Local information is available at the helpful at is available Local information Tempi Post office Tourist office URP Informacittà and after the Napoleonic period, when it was the Napoleonic period, and after Today’s local the lower Po. city of made chief the of much restored carefully has government during WWII. was battered which centre, Orientation To castle. Cavour southeast to Ferrara’s runs della Martiri east, Corso the castle’s immediate Libertà leads down to the cathedral and ad­ the from where Trieste, joining Piazza Trento centro storico Information Denali Police station EAST OF BOLOGNA EAST OF BOLOGNA FERRARA pop 133,600 Emilia-Romagna’s Less smug than some of the of much retains Ferrara cities, provincial its Renaissance heyday splendour of austere family, it was a force when, as seat the Este of with. to be reckoned to 1598, its political and military prowess by intense cultural activity. Petrarch, matched Antonio and poetsTitian, Torquato Ariosto all spent time and Ludovico Tasso dukes. Este the of under the patronage here its over VIII claimed the city, only to preside importance during recovered Ferrara decline. Italian; Vicolo degli Spalti 4; s/d/tr €35/60/75) Vicolo degli Spalti Italian; the uphill from minutes B&B five two-room Vito and her frisky dog Owner Clara castle. to numer­ hosts and can point you lovely are attractions. ous other local tourist office del Municipio; Piazza Sun) betweenruns buses Piacenza and regularly 55 minutes). Castell’Arquato (€3.10, Sun) In ’s courtyard. h h h From Porta Po near the train station, Viale

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0523 80 32 15; Ca’ di Cima Castle apart, Castell’Arquato is an atmos­ Bus 2 (€1) runs between the train station Piacenza is just off the A1 linking Milan Antica Trattoria Dell’Angelo Hotel Astor

Antica Osteria del Teatro Antica Osteria del Teatro % pheric place for a stopover. You can try local pheric place for a stopover. built by Luchino Visconti. Visconti. built by Luchino Tibini 29-31; s/d/tr 29-31; s/d/tr Tibini at wine at the Enoteca Comunale del Municipio; Piazza eval centre is the crenellated is the crenellated eval centre ( €3.50/2.50; Dominating the beautifully preserved medi­ The hill-top the countryside of the green rises above Piacenza. 33km southeast of Arda Valley, AROUND PIACENZA and Piazza dei Cavalli. Turin. Via Emilia (SS9) also runs past on its way to Rimini and the Adriatic Sea. and Bologna and the A21 joining Brescia and and Bologna and the A21 joining Brescia , one hour, hourly), Parma (€4.30, €5.10/10.90, one hour, hourly), Parma half-hourly)40 minutes, (regular/ and Bologna hourly). Eurostar €8.80/17.10, 1½ hours, ient way to reach most destinations. There are are most destinations. There ient way to reach trains to/from Milan (regular/Eurostar frequent Piacenza’s bus station on Piazza is located conven­ Citadella; however, is a more the train built around fresh, locally sourced ingredients ingredients locally sourced built around fresh, wine list. and an abundant Getting There & Around is what you get here, at one of Emilia’s top at one of here, is what you get The seasonally menu is restaurants. changing Verdi 16; tasting menus €70-90; Verdi 15th-century cuisine in a restored Weekday lunch specials are a steal, with pasta/ a steal, are Weekday specials lunch costing €4/5. main courses homemade fare – think spinach-and-ricotta – think spinach-and-ricotta homemade fare tortelloni, wine. red roast meat and fizzy local tablecloths, this laid-back trattoria is as tra­ this laid-back tablecloths, The food is hearty, ditional as they come. ceiling, wood-fired heater and red-checked and red-checked heater ceiling, wood-fired they’re clean and comfortable enough. clean and they’re The rooms make no great impression, but impression, no great make The rooms access for disabled guests. Take bus 1, 16 or 1, 16 or bus for disabledaccess Take guests. station. the train 17 from Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Tibini 14; meals €20-25; Tibini three-star hotel near the train station offers near the train station offers hotel three-star rates. at reasonable modest accommodation request at touristrequest office Tue-Fri) 460 EAST OF BOLOGNA •• Ferrara lonelyplanet.com

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a INFORMATION Museo Lapidario...... 11 D4 i S" V Denali ...... 1666 B3 Palazzina di Marfisa d'Este.....12 D4 6614 666 Police Station ...... 2 C2 ...... 13 C2 Post Office ...... 3 A1 Palazzo di Ludovico il Moro..14 C4 Tourist Office ...... 4 A1 Palazzo Municipale...... 15 A1 URP Informacittà...... 5 A1 ...... 16 C4 Pinacoteca Nazionale...... (see 13) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Casa Romei...... 6 C4 SLEEPING i9

Castello Estense...... 7 A1 Albergo Annunziata...... 17 A1 o 5 Via Comacchi Duomo...... 8666 A2 Campeggio Comunale 666 ‚ To Comacchio Museo Archeologico Estense...... 18 D1 (52km) Nazionale...... (see 14) Hotel de Prati...... 19 A1 Museo del Risorgimento e Locanda Borgonuovo...... 20 B1 della Resistenza...... 9 C2 Pensione Artisti...... 21 B3 Museo della Cattedrale ...... 10 C3 Student's Hostel Estense...... 22 B2

Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Free wi-fi and one public computer was commissioned by Nicolò II d’Este in 1385. provided by the municipal government. Initially it was intended to protect him and his family from the town’s irate citizenry, who Sights were up in arms over tax increases, but in CASTELLO ESTENSE the late 15th century it became the family’s Complete with moat and drawbridge, Ferrara’s permanent residence. towering castle (%0532 29 92 33; Viale Cavour; adult/ Although sections are now used as govern­ child €7/free, tower extra €1; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) ment offices, a few rooms, including the royal EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO

. ex­ pal­ 461 461 Palazzo Palazzo Museo at the Museo Corso Ercole I d’Este Corso Ercole I d’Este

9am-2pm Tue-Sun) 0532 23 41 30; Via 8.30am-7.30pm Tue- . In the Salone 0532 6 62 99; Via XX 0532 6 62 99; Via XX h % h

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% ( 0532 24 49 49; Via Scandiana 23; adult/ 9am-6pm Tue-Sun)

Casa Romei

EAST •• BOLOGNA OF Ferrara % h (

Palazzo di LudovicoPalazzo il Moro (www.paliodiferrara.it) On the last Sunday of May (www.paliodiferrara.it) 0532 24 49 49; Corso Giovecca 170; adult/child €3/free; adult/child €3/free; 0532 24 49 49; Corso Giovecca 170; 0532 20 58 44; Corso Ercole I d’Este 21; adult/child €4/free; €4/free; Ercole I d’Este 21; adult/child 0532 20 58 44; Corso is where Lucrezia Borgia spent much of of spent much Borgia Lucrezia is where 9am-2pm Tue, Wed, Fri Wed, to 1pm Sun) & Sat, to 7pm Thu, 9am-2pm Tue, 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun) 9am-6pm Tue-Sun) Ferrara’s most famous frescoes are in the are most famous frescoes Ferrara’s Your ticket also gives entry to the nearby gives also Your ticket Next door, the small Next door, the You’ll find yet more Etruscan artefacts, Etruscan artefacts, You’ll find yet more Palazzina di MarfisaIn similar style, the Palazzina d’Este East of Piazza Trento Trieste, the Trieste, Trento Piazza East of % % Sun) Many finds came from the Etruscan town of finds came from the Etruscan town of Many Spina, near modern-day Comacchio. century decorations and a shady garden. walkable. Alternatively, hire a bike and cycle a bike hire Alternatively, walkable. the perimeter. Festivals & Events Il Palio h among the best examples of considered are their type in Italy. Museo Lapidario h Roman and Etruscan collection of mented and inscriptions. tombs stele, Attic selection of along with an impressive vases, in Archeologico Nazionale Settembre 124; adult/child €4/free; CITY WALLS ancient city walls 9km of Ferrara’s Most of or less intact and some parts are more are Savonarola 30; adult/child €3/free; Savonarola 30; adult/child €3/free; brick exterior The austere her time in Ferrara. patio and, on the 1st hides a peaceful inner preservedfloor, a 16th-century apartment in its original state. ( palace, 14th-century pleasure Este’s Schifanoia child €5/free; ’s 15th-century dei Mesi, and seasons depicting the months frescoes century. Regarded as the family’s grandest as the family’s Regarded century. the Pinacoteca home to azzo, it is now Nazionale ( h paintings from collection of and its interesting Bolognese schools. and the Ferrarese e della Resistenza 19; adult/child €3/free; and posters hibits documents, proclamations and from the Italian unification movement uniforms, guns WWII, as well as numerous and hand grenades. Renaissance (districts) of Ferrara compete (districts)each year, the eight contrade of Ferrara

was . 0532 20 74 49; was the Este was the Este % ( 0532 24 49 49; Via San Palazzo MunicipalePalazzo is its three-tiered is its three-tiered

% ( 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun) 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun)

Palazzo dei Diamanti Palazzo h My Last Duchess My Last by Jacopo della by Jacopo Madonna

7.30am-noon & 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Mon-Fri)

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Museo della Cattedrale On the other side of Piazza Trento Trieste, Trieste, Piazza Trento On the other side of Named after the diamond-shaped ashlar Named after Piazza Cattedrale; Piazza built for Sigismondo d’Este late in the 15th late built for Sigismondo d’Este stones on its facade, the Museo Lapidario. If you plan to visit multiple museums, con­ entry (€8) that gives sider a combined ticket to the Museo della Cattedrale, Palazzina and Schifanoia Palazzo d’Este, di Marfisa MUSEUMS & GALLERIES canvases, and some witty bas-reliefs illustrat­ canvases, bas-reliefs and some witty the year. of ing the months Romano; adult/child €5/free; Romano; adult/child €5/free; houses from the cathedral, various artefacts including a serene vigorous Cosimo Tura Quercia, a couple of the the oddly secular duo, mouths agape at the effortoddly secular duo, mouths all up. holding it of clambering out of their coffins). Astride a their coffins). Astride clambering out of handsome lions at the base squats an pair of respectively. Much of the upper level is a of Much respectively. the Final Judgment of graphic representation and hell (notice the four figures and heaven marble facade, combining Romanesque and Gothic styles on the lower and upper tiers 7.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm Sun) The outstanding feature of the pink-and­ of The outstanding feature 12th-century Duomo white CATHEDRAL CATHEDRAL son Borso – they’re 20th-century copies but – they’re son Borso nonetheless imposing. but you can wander around its twin court­ but you can wander around by copper over yards. The entrance is watched Nicolò III and his less-wayward statues of the castle in the late 15th century. Nowadays, the castle in the late offices by administrative occupied it’s largely (admission free; (admission free; to next door moved family home until they Linked to the castle by an elevated passageway, Linked the 13th-century crenellated PALAZZO MUNICIPALE MUNICIPALE PALAZZO they were lovers, providing the inspiration for providing lovers, they were Robert Browning’s had his young second wife, Parisina Malatesta, Malatesta, Parisina secondhad his young wife, discovering after beheaded Ugo, and his son, Giochi (Games Salon), the Cappella (Games Giochi di Renée It dungeon. the claustrophobic de France and Nicolò III d’Este that Duke in 1425 was here suites, are open for viewing. Highlights are the the Highlights for viewing. open are are suites, dei and Salone Room) Giganti (Giants’ Sala dei lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO adult/child/tent €5/3.50/8; gathering, in gathering, late September. .ferraraballoonsfestival.it) Italy’slargesthot-airballoon swathes of polished wood.All roomshave apartments, each decorated withantiques and B&B. There are fourrefined roomsandthree this littlegem isFerrara’s longest-established aiW www.borgonuovo.com; the spacious apartmentwithitsownkitchen in by contemporary art.Theowners alsorent a publicroomsarestairs thebright enlivened bedsteads andantiquefurniture, whiledown­ The upstairs guestroomssportwrought-iron the castle,beautifuldecorandfriendlyowner. a .com; ViaPadiglioni 5;s€49-85,d€75-120,ste€110-150; bathroom. Nobreakfast. able. Book aheadforthethree roomswith convenient andtheowners are ultrahospit­ and akitchen Thelocationis forguests’use. rooms, free bikes, a smallvine-covered terrace budget optionfeatures spotlessold-fashioned d €60,s/dwithoutbathroom€28/50) Meals are alsooffered (€5 to €10). maintenance area andabike storage zone). pumps, drinkingwater forrefilling bottles,a wi-fi amenitiesforcyclists(bike andfantastic geothermal hotwater, abar,backpatio,free beds, butthey’ve added24-hourreception, has classic hostel roomswiththree toeight its youthfulnewowners, Ferrara’s hostel still s/d/tr €16/35/40/45; .ostelloferrara.it; Don’t forget your repellent.insect to PiazzaleSanGiovanni andfollowthesigns. [email protected]; ComunaleEstense Campeggio Sleeping Ferrara BalloonsFestival Festival Buskers’ in Italy,thefirstofficialcompetitionwasheld1279. bedlam.Claimedtobetheoldestraceofitskind medieval turnsPiazza into in ahorseracethatmomentarily Ariostea 462 lt August. late ) Ferrara’sbuskers.com streets are filledwithmusiciansin de Praticharms withitscentrallocationnear walls. Catch bus 1 or 5 from the train station bus1or5fromthetrainstation walls. Catch nicipal campgroundisjustoutsidethecity o Pensione Artisti Estense Student’sHostel Hotel dePrati Hotel ) palazzo Astep up fromyouraverage three-star, ATO OON • Ferrara OFBOLOGNA•• EAST )

Withinanarrow-shot of thecastle, Locanda Borgonuovo Locanda Borgonuovo

next door.

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h 0532 76 10 38; Via Vittoria 66; 0532 761038;ViaVittoria

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( 0532 201158;www s €60-70,d€90-100; Ferrara’s best % ( % Ferrara’s mu­

www.hoteldeprati 0532 752396; 0532 211100;

a fabplace tofeast ontraditional favourites in theheartof Ferrara’s oldJewish quarter is meals €25-30; to thishole-in-the-wallpizzeria,runbythe For asliceof Ferrarese culinaryhistory,head Saraceno 116;pizzas€2.50-3.50; and crunchy consistency. is wellknownforitsdistinctive twisted shape da sugo(stewed Ferrarese porksausage). bread poucha pasta filledwithpumpkin,andsalama Local specialitiesinclude Eating &Drinking €3. costs to €300)150mfromthemainhotel. Parking There are alsosixmodernapartments(€125 directly Estense. acrossfromtheCastello history. Still,youcan’tbeatthelocation, bland, consideringthebuilding’sillustrious theroomsareforts, although surprisingly top-end hotel withabundantcreature com­ simple 240; nunziata.it; of bikes. Reservations are essential. guests have free access tothebrand-newfleet sive displaysof Parking speed. costs€8and can admire Ferrari thepetturtle’simpres­ room, orretire tothefrondypatio,where you Enjoy breakfast intheelegantupstairs sitting andwi-fi. frigobars, safes, flat-screen TVs daily chef’s specials. featuring traditionalFerrarese dishesand ing aroundforthewide-rangingfood menu, wine holdscentre stage here, it’sworthstick­ Vittoria atthislively corner bar. Although oncobblestoned Via mingle withthemasses brick arches inthecosyinterior rooms,or €20-25; and historyasafilmset. documenting Orsucci’s numerousawards clippings andphotosthatcover thewalls, can tell you astoryortwoabout thenews If youask,theamiableproprietorGiulio flour treat cooked inthewood-fired oven). menu item ispadelladiceci Aside the onlyother beer, fromdraught medium-sized, withorwithoutanchovies? do youwantyourpizzamargherita familysince1936.Choicesaresame simple: here, waslittlemore theAnnunziata thana o Annunziata Albergo Balebùste Balebùste Osteria delGhetto Osteria

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Wed-Mon) Sequester yourselfunderthe Sequester Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 0532 763557;

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( This sweet littleeatery Thissweet % 0532 76 49 36; Via Vittoria 26; 0532 764936;ViaVittoria

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5.30pm-1am Fri-Wed) 5.30pm-1am Fri-Wed) Via Vittoria 44;meals Via Vittoria 0532 760000;Via (achickpea- smallor

EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO

. 463 463

Parco Parco Abbazia di , a regional , a regional , the largest , the largest 0532 90 09 00) % (

is one of Italy’s oldest is one of 339 4056853; Piazza Travaglio 339 4056853; Piazza 0532 77 21 90; Piazza Stazione 2; 0532 77 21 90; Piazza % ( ) (www.parcodeltapo.it

0532 20 20 03; Piazzale Kennedy 6-8; 0532 20 20 03; Piazzale ; 0533 71 91 10; [email protected] % 0532 20 60 17; Via Aldighieri 28a; ( ). centro storico

% % % EAST •• BOLOGNA OF Po Delta ( 8.30am-7pm) ( (

h 7.30am-12.30pm & 3-7.30pm) ) 0533 5 76 93; www.podeltabirdfair.it 9.30am-1pm & 3-6.30pm Fri-Sun) 4.45am-8pm Mon-Fri) 9.30am-12.30pm & 3.15-7pm) For fauna of a different kind, a battery of of kind, a battery a different For fauna of man- In summertime, the mosquitoes are For a taxi, call Radiotaxi The area’s main attraction is the The area’s Most traffic is banned from the city centre. Most traffic the city centre. is banned from buses 1 and 9 run from the train ACFT Even better, get in the saddle and join the get better, Even h % h h Pomposa Abbazia di Pomposa the Ferrara, 50km east of About when fog shrouds the extensive pine woods when fog shrouds the extensive and wetlands in eerie silence. Europe’s largest park encompassing one of alluring lagoons, the wetlands and a pair of Bertuzzi. With and Valle di Comacchio Valli than 300 bird species nesting or passing more it’s a paradisethrough for ornitholo­ the area, Comacchio May, April and early gists. In late Po Delta Birdwatching Fair hosts the International ( in Europe. its kind event of fun. coastal offer resorts) lidi (small beach and consider mos­ slap on the repellent eaters; camping. quito nets if you’re cycle-friendly city. Among the places where city. Among the places where cycle-friendly to €10): (per day €7 bikes you can rent Itinerando Pirani e Bagni Roberto Ceragioli Romanelli PO DELTA Straddling Emilia-Romagna and the Veneto, the Po Foci del Po) is where the Po Delta ( spills into the Adriatic Sea. An easy day trip or Ravenna, an at­ it has from either Ferrara its own, particularly in winter all of mosphere tion on Via Rampari San Paolo, then swing by then swing Via Ramparition on San Paolo, The town. stationthe train out of on their way option for Bologna (€3.80, train is the better half-hourly)30 to 50 minutes, and Ravenna 14 daily). (€5.30, 1¼ hours, Overnight is avail­ (€3 per 24 hours) parking Darsena (just car park off Via able at a large outside the centre. to the city station direct in Italy’s most other pedallers of hundreds h del Delta del Po 4; Codigoro; admission Mon-Sat €5, monastery/church Sun €3/free;

Via

bac­ buses tortelli In the (wine- palazzo, For fash­ sorbetto di sorbetto covered market 0532 76 05 70; Corso Ercole I d’Este 1;

. Corso Ercole I d’Este 1; Thu-Tue)

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h www.acft.it, in Italian)

0532 24 33 63; €30-40; in the world (accord­ in the world osteria 0532 47 12 25; Via Adelardi 11; meals 0532 47 12 25; Via

% 0532 24 33 63; ( lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat)

dinner Mon-Sat) % (

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(roast eel with chanterelle mush­ (roast eel with chanterelle 0532 59 94 90; h The oldest %

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Self-caterers can fill up at the Don Giovanni Quel Fantastico Giovedì Quel Fantastico La Borsa Al Brindisi grand central courtyard of a historic a historic of grand central courtyard Castelnuovo 9; meals towns such as Comacchio (€4.10, one hour, as Comacchio towns such 11 daily), as well as to the Adriatic beaches. Long-distance buses at the bus sta­ originate ACFT to surrounding within the city and operate Getting There & Around rooms in bay-leaf emulsion). Vegri; Via ( all’alloro (guinea fowl–stuffed pastasciutto croccante ham) and crunchy Parmesan in a custard of or of unconventional concoctions such as such concoctions unconventional of di parmigiano e pro­ allo zabaione con faraona list featuring over 600 Italian and interna­ over list featuring feast The menu is an imaginative tional labels. harvested own garden, from the restaurant’s daily and a wine baked bread eight varieties of ner, this highly specialises acclaimed eatery in fish from the Adriatic, vegetables fresh-caught scented green apple sorbet). green scented meals €45-75; watering dessert menu features dessertwatering menu features al moscato mela verde profumato (Venetian-style codfish with sweet (Venetian-style e polenta while the mouth- cream), pepper-polenta book here. Seafoodbook here. specialities include dolci con crema di peperoni mantecato calà ionable food in a cool, bistro-chic setting, bistro-chic ionable food in a cool, lower prices. this wine bar offers snacks and simpler meals snacks this wine bar offers the same superb quality as its adjacent sis­ of but at much Giovanni, Don restaurant ter meals €27-33; menus start at €13. menus start of grappas and whiskies, plus a full menu of menu of grappas and whiskies, plus a full of lunch pastas, mains and snacks. Fixed-price studied in the room upstairs. Alongside the studied in the room upstairs. a strong selection substantial wine list there’s 1435 – Titian drank here, Benvenuto Cellini drank here, 1435 – Titian on occasion and Copernicus dropped in ing to Guinness), this atmospheric wine bar this atmospheric ing to Guinness), established an in drinking den was already mashed potatoes). €25-30) like like sausage pork with (stewed di patate con purea lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO moved hiscourthere fromMilan andmade city until402,when EmperorHonorius centre. Christian they date goldenage toRavenna’s asanearly of colourbyDante inhis Described asasymphony Byzantine mosaics. brighter than earlyChristianand Ravenna’s Of theregion’s artisticjewelsnoneshine pop 153,400 RAVENNA Comacchio (€4.10, one hour). the town’straditionaleel-fishing industry. 9.30am-1pm&2.30-6pmNov-Feb)Mar-Oct, 200;adult/child€2/1; G Mazzini the Roman shipwreck discovered nearby,while inEnglish) thefascinatingcargotation of a 3-6.30pm Sep-May) €4.50/2.30; www.comune.comacchio.fe.it; ViadellaPescheria 2;adult/child The Map & Itineraries. pamphlet route fromwestof Ferrara andthe tothesea, which the132kmDestraPocycle details publications includetheDestra Poleaflet, horse ridingandboatexcursions. Useful ing andcyclinginthearea, bird-watching, Nov-Mar) 9.30am-12.30pm&3-6pmFri-Sun & 3.30-6.30pmApr-Oct, .turismocomacchio.it; traversing acluster of canals. Trepponti, isaneye-catching construction bridges. Themostfamous turesque fishing village of canalsandbrick maincentre,The delta’s Comacchio, isapic­ Comacchio Clasica diMusica Rassegna di Bologna. There’s alsoa small museum. century Bolognaschool andartworksbyVitale and isadornedwithfrescoes fromthe14th­ nave of itschurch haselaborate paving mosaic pers were sunghere forthelasttime. The began inthe14thcentury,and1652ves­ foremostItaly’s culturalcentres. Itsdecline here, andinthe11thcenturyitwasoneof d’Arezzo reputedly invented themusicalscale endowments.ThemonkGuido Benedictine 464 The helpful Ravenna was an unimportant provincial was anunimportant Ravenna From Ferrara, run11timesdailyto buses In thevillage,meritavisit. twomuseums The abbeystages aclassicalmusicfestival, Manifattura dei Marinati deiMarinati Manifattura Museo della Nave Romana dellaNave Museo EAST OF BOLOGNA •• Ravenna Ravenna OFBOLOGNA•• EAST hasloadsof informationabout hik­ h Birdwatching inthe PoDelta Park:

10am-1pm &3-7pmJun-Aug, 9.30am-1pm & displays(withgooddocumen­ tourist office tourist

Corso Mazzini 4; Corso Mazzini h , each July.

9.30am-12.30pm &3-7pm

( ( % % Divine Comedy, Divine , the1635 bridge

h ( 0533 314154;www % 0533 81742;Corso 9.30am-12.30pm 0533 311316; chronicles

Cooperativa SocialelaFormica Information interest iswithineasy walking distance. del Popolo. Fromhere, of nearlyeverything its continuation,ViaDiaz,intocentralPiazza Orientation beaches. Adriatic are resorts theseaside thatcrowdthenearby refined andpolished sophisticated place. Less art andculture. grew intoaglittering forByzantine showcase Lombard capture of thecityin752, theByzantinearrivalin540and between come, however. Inlittlemore than200years, cities. glamorous became oneof theMediterranean’s most opment andunderTheodorictheGreat it devel­ did little tohinderRavenna’s ever, to theGoths. Thechange inregime, how­ in fact,theydiduntil476whenthecityfell protection frombarbarianinvaders –and, swamps aroundthetownwouldprovide onthebasisthatmalarial Ravenna chose ofit capital theWestern RomanEmpire. He September. FridayfromearlyJulyto through early illuminated from9pmto 11pmTuesday They’redo theroundsat night. openand mainUnesco-listedRavenna’s sights. formation, bothhistoricalandpractical, about The website www.ravennamosaici.it gives in­ Sights offices Tourist Post office Police station Multimediateca Fast Clean 8-12; 12.30pm &3-6pm); trie office isinthecentre, on Via Salara. Themain 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat,10am-6pmSunApr-Sep) Sat) Internetaccessonthe1stfloorofPalazzo Farini. h lenta 4;perhr€2; outside thetrainstation;providesaleft-luggage service. Piazza Farini; perbag€2.50-5; tion, it’sa600mwalkalongVialeFarini and FromPiazzaFarini, infrontof thetrainsta­ ( Ravenna’s Byzantineheyday was stillto Ravenna’s To see the mosaics inadifferent the mosaics light, To see More down-to-earthnowadays,itisstilla 7am-10pm) % h 0544 45 15 39; Via delle Industrie 14; 0544 451539;ViadelleIndustrie

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66 BASILICA6 DI SAN VITALE,66 MAUSOLEO DI a particularly solemn and expressive Empress GALLA PLACIDIA & MUSEO NAZIONALE Theodora, who was his consort. The basilica (%0544 54 16 88; Via Fiandrini, entrance on In the same complex, the small Mausoleo di Via San Vitale; h9am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Mar & Oct, Galla Placidia (%0544 54 16 88; Via Fiandrini; h9am-7pm 9.30am-5pm Nov-Feb) was consecrated in 547 by Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Mar & Oct, 9.30am-5pm Nov-Feb) was Archbishop Massimiano. In contrast to the constructed for Galla Placidia, the half-sister of sombre exterior, its interior is awash with Emperor Honorius, who initiated construction colour as the rich greens, golds and blues of of many of Ravenna’s grandest buildings. The the mosaics are bathed in soft yellow sun­ mosaics here, more muted than those in the light. The mosaics on the side and end walls basilica, are the oldest in Ravenna. represent scenes from the Old Testament: to Next door to the basilica, the Museo Nazionale the left, Abraham prepares to sacrifice Isaac (%0544 54 37 39; Via Fiandrini; admission €4; h8.30am­ in the presence of three angels, while the one 7.30pm Tue-Sun) is housed in the cloisters of a on the right portrays the death of Abel and the former Benedictine monastery. There’s a offering of Melchizedek. Inside the chancel, wealth of pottery, bronzes, icons and vest­ two magnificent mosaics depict the Byzantine ments, plus more Madonna and Child por­ emperor Justinian with San Massimiano and traits than you can shake a halo at. EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO Ravenna, writingmuchRavenna, of the Dante spentthelast19years of hislife in TOMBA DIDANTE life of Christ. smaller panelsdepictingscenes from the the Madonna. Spread alongboth wallsare procession of virgins, bearingofferings to on theleft,there’s anequallyexpressive ing towardsChristwithhisapostles, while 26 white-robed martyrs are depicted head­ (south)wall, Onthe right beautiful mosaics. 5pm Nov-Feb) h tury, thebasilica OriginallybuiltbytheGoths inthe6thcen­ BASILICA DISANT’APOLLINARENUOVO century. 5th itwasconvertedhouse, intoabaptistryinthe tohaveThought startedlife asaRoman bath­ picting theapostlesandbaptismof Christ. holds anotherimpressive of de­ set mosaics 10am-5pmNov-Feb) &Oct, 9.30am-5.30pmMar 7pm Apr-Sep, Neoniano 6th-century ivorythrone. its finecollectionof andanexquisite mosaics reopen inearly2010;it’swellworthavisitfor atthetimeofclosed research, butexpected to 10am-5pmNov-Feb) &Oct, 9.30am-5.30pmMar Sep, Arcivescovile the tinyMuseo dral Next totheunremarkable 18th-century NEONIANO MUSEO ARCIVESCOVILE &BATTISTERO 466 % Next door,thedomedroof of the admission price. east oftown.Eachthesesites hasitsown Sant’Apollinare inClasse,about5kmsouth­ Pay €2toincludetheBasilicadi anextra Nazionale andMausoleodiTeodorico. ual admissionpriceforthesemonuments. Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. There’s noindivid­ Battistero NeonianoandBasilicadi di GallaPlacidia,MuseoArcivescovile, ments: BasilicadiSanVitale, Mausoleo days, gives entrytothefive mainmonu­ in Ravenna. The first(€8.50),validforseven There are three onoffer combinedtickets MAKING THEMOSTOFYOUREURO 0544 541688; 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-5.30pm Mar & Oct, 10am­ &Oct, 9.30am-5.30pmMar 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, (Via Gioacchino Rasponi; GioacchinoRasponi; (Via EAST OF BOLOGNA •• Ravenna Ravenna OFBOLOGNA•• EAST Buy adifferent (€6)fortheMuseo ticket

( % claimssomeof most Ravenna’s

0544 541688;Piazza delDuomo;

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0544 541688;ViadiRoma; h

7am-noon &2.30-5pm) (Archepiscopal Museum; (Archepiscopal Museum; Divine Comedy Divine h 9am-7pm Apr- Battistero Battistero h cathe­

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Francesco Negri 14;1-weekcourse Francesco Negri €660-760) 877-7-MOSAIC;www.mosaicschool.com; Via America free; saicisti.com; ViaFiandrini; 1-/2-week courses €750/950) built inthe6thcenturyonburialsite of silica, 5kmsoutheastof thecitycentre, was taking dome mosaic depictsthebaptism domemosaic taking OTHER MONUMENTS there take bus4or44 to Classe. city toChristianityinthe2ndcentury.Toget whoconverted patronsaint, Ravenna’s the ing free; 47 3569;ViaRomeaSud,Classe;admission€3, the Thebrilliantstar-spangled of mosaic apse BASILICA DISANT’APOLLINAREINCLASSE 2 or5fromthecitycentre. that wasrecycled Take asasarcophagus. bus the mausoleumisaRomanbasinof porphyry and300-tonnedome.mortar, Attheheartof its huge blocksof stoneuncemented byany 520, isaconsiderable feat of constructionwith 14;admission€3; delle Industrie This two-storey MAUSOLEO DITEODORICO Francesco. San briefly lived onnearbyPiazzadi inahouse continually inhis still suppliestheoilforlampthatburns As aperpetualactof penance,Florence here, after Florence expelledhimin1302. Mosaic Art School Mosaic Art GruppoMosaicisti artists: to catering frombeginners toeveryone courses The followingoutfitsrunmosaic Courses geometric and floral designs. able artisticmerit,theyare decorated with unearthed intheearly1990s.Ofconsider­ 10am-6.30pmdailyApr-Oct) 6pm Sat&SunNov-Mar; Via BGianbattista;admission€4; the at the6th-centuryfloormosaics San Vitale, Christ. of 8.30am-7.30pmApr-Sep) Oct-Mar, admissionfree; 54 3711;ViadegliAriani; degliAriani Via Diaz,istheBattistero Santo,justoff theBasilicadelloSpirito Behind

Another literary great, LordByron, To the west, not far from the Basilica di To thewest,notfarfromBasilica h Domus deiTappeti diPietra Basilica di Sant’Apollinare inClasse Basilica diSant’Apollinare h 9.30am-6.30pm)

8.30am-7.30pm) ( ( mausoleum % % tomb . 349 601 45 66, toll-free in North 349 6014566,toll-free inNorth 0544 34799;www.gruppomo

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dinner Thu-Tue, lunch Mon, Tue, Thu lunch Mon, Tue, dinner Thu-Tue, 6.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, from 7.30am Yes, it’s touristy, but the it’s touristy, but the Yes, 0544 3 01 63; Via Corrado Ricci 24; meals 0544 21 64 64; Under the hotel of the same of Under the hotel h h A busy self-service restaurant % ( %

( Tue-Sun) . 0544 3 50 60; Via Mordani 8; EAST •• BOLOGNA OF Ravenna A charming 16th-century stone A charming

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0544 68 99 00; A wine bar that hums like a Friday-night A wine bar that hums like Ca’ de Vèn Babaleus Self-caterers should and sandwich-fillers Locanda del Melarancio Ristorante Cappello % and movie’ special (the movie’s at the nearby movie’s special (the and movie’ informal but this relaxed, Cinema Astoria), also servesplace in the centre up a full menu and fish. pasta, meat of ATM buses Intercity for Ferrara from Piazza Farini. from the bus and towns along the coast leave the railroad tracks station of on the east side by a pedestrian underpass). Punto Bus (reached ( fiori di zucca e zafferano (pasta with cuttlefish, fiori e zafferano di zucca and saffron). pumpkin flowers courgettes, load up at the city’s Andrea Costa) Drinking Cabiria Sat) popular with pub, Cabiria favourite, is a local the 30-something crowd. with bold red and brick building enlivened walls forms the backdrop for this smooth, looks-conscious bar. Getting There & Around €25-35; brick domes, vaulted palazzo with frescoed floors. marble ceilings and chequerboard by complemented Regional specialities are list. an encyclopaedic wine 41; tasting menu €35, meals €35-40; Novembre Sun dinner & Mon) its food takes restaurant name, this refined weekly, but seriously. The menu changes very prominently, in dishes seafood always figures zucchine, calamaretti, con as strozzapreti such flat-screen TVs. The ample breakfast features TVs.flat-screen features ample breakfast The . from Ravenna’spastries pasticceria finest €13. costs Parking Eating Bizantino 2.45pm Mon-Fri) Bizantino is ideal market, inside the covered bite. economical lunchtime for a quick, €4, meals €20-25; & Fri) atmosphere’s wonderful at this cavernous at this cavernous wonderful atmosphere’s in a 15th-century -cum-restaurant enoteca Mentana 33)

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s/d €55/90, without bathroom €45/70;

% 0544 40 56 66) In late October, stars dm/s/d €15/23/44; ( %

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, 0544 40 56 56; www.crossroads-it.com Via IV Novembre 14; s €50-65, d €70-110; Via IV Novembre %

( % The prime location is what you A stone’s throw from the train sta­

( ) ) The old and the new combine to great The old and the new combine to great )

Via Nicolodi 12;

Ostello Dante

Albergo Cappello Hotel Centrale Byron Hotel Ravenna Italian conductor Riccardo Muti ties with Ravenna has close involved each year with this festival. and is intimately Concerts staged from June to late July at venues all are over town, including the in Italian) Jazz concerts late Febru­ held in town between are festival. of Mayary and the end as part of this region-wide ceilings are set against modern fixtures and set against modern fixtures ceilings are three-star hotel. Murano glass chandeliers, glass chandeliers, Murano hotel. three-star and coffered original 15th-century frescoes ai centrally located effect eye-catching, at this frigobar and free wi-fi. wi-fi. frigobar and free 41; s €110-130, d €130-160; ; Via IV Novembre gocappello.it modernisation, but you get all the regular all the regular modernisation, but you get TV, comforts, including satellite three-star Piazza del Popolo. The solid, old-fashioned The solid, old-fashioned Piazza del Popolo. to their character lost most of rooms have aiW 20 paces from central a mere pay for here, .hotelbyron.com; and comfortable enough. Parking is free; wi-fi wi-fi is free; and comfortable enough. Parking costs €4 per hour. rooms feature fading beige and gold decor fading beige rooms feature large but they’re and unexceptional furniture, .ra.it; Via Maroncelli.ra.it; 12; paW bet. The bland Ravenna is a safe tion, Hotel Take bus 80 or the red ‘Metrobus’ from the ‘Metrobus’ bus 80 or the red Take train station. east of the train station. There’s an 11.30pm the train station. There’s east of a ‘night lock-up but for €1 you can hire you to come and go freely. allowing key’, .com; building 1km is in a modern vibrant HI hostel Lido di Ravenna. Take bus 70 from Ravenna. from Ravenna. bus 70 Take Lido di Ravenna. €8.20-12.40, plus per person €4.40-8; self- town, this large a pine wood 8km from at contained camping ground is near the beach Camping Piomboni 421, MarinaRavenna;piomboni.it; Viale della Pace di per site Ravenna Jazz Sleeping Ravenna Festival music events, and jazz fans are well served. well music events, jazz fans are and Crossroads Festivals & Events & Events Festivals Italy’s classical- top Ravennaone of hosts Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book

of the jazz firmament descend on town. of the jazz firmament descend on 24 92 44; www.teatroalighieri.org; Via Mariani 2). Ticket around €15. prices start at EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO race was held attheAutodromo EnzoeDino the F1authorities pulled theplugin2007, home totheSan Marino Grand Prix.Until Fans of FormulaOne willknow Imola as pop 67,300 IMOLA ing swimmingpool. ofthe midstof vines,andavery asea welcom­ 157; s/d/tr/q€55/60/75/85; ( double-decker of loggias Piazza del Popolo. Oct-Apr) & Fri 9am-12.30pm &3.30-5.30pmTue-Wed, 9am-12.30pmThu & 3.30-6.30pmMon-Sat9.30am-12.30pmSunMay-Sep, .prolocofaenza.it; VoltoneMolinella2; office centre fromthetourist Nov-Mar) 5.30pm Fri-Sun h www.micfaenza.org; delleCeramiche Internazionale out localstylesatthevast,ivy-covered is stillamoney-spinnerforthetown.Check enware) datesand back totheRenaissance Production of this faience (tin-glazed earth­ is bestknownforitshigh-gradeceramics. FaenzaAn easytrainridefromRavenna, pop 56,100 FAENZA also rents out bikes. Farini; perhr/day€1.10/8.50; bikes Cooperativa SocialelaFormica hours. business and return rackwithinnormal ittothesame yellow bike fromoneof outside thecyclestalls presenting aphotoID,thensimplygrab a forvisitors.free Register bike-hireby service Salara) branch of thetouristofficeoffers a the southcoast. daily), Rimini(€3.80,onehour,hourly)and hours, hourly),Ferrara (€5.30,1¼hours, 14 di SanVitale. of andnorthof thetrainstation theBasilica down thecoast.Themaincarparksare east (Via Adriatica)headssouthtoRiminiandon main eastcoastA14autostrada. TheSS16 Sun) 468 tceig office. ticketing % Just outsideof town, train station, Just outsideRavenna’s Trains connectwithBologna(€5.80,1¼ isonabranchRavenna (A14dir)of the In town,cyclingispopular. Themain(Via Get details of details Faenza’sGet charming medieval 9.30am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to1.30pmTue-Thu9.30am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, &to , onthepiazza,isATM’s informationand ; ViaCesarolo 0546 32089;www.agriturismolacurbastra.it ATO OON • Faenza OFBOLOGNA•• EAST

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WWII but has since been largelyWWII buthassincebeen restored. battered by400Allied bombingraidsin face.ably Italian, Itssmall havethe citydoes another,more recognis­ clubs turnsyouon–welcometoRimini. insomeof finest followed bynights Italy’s ofthe thought daysonflesh-packed beaches twice aboutvisitinginAugust.If,however, holiday-makers, wanttothink youmight of withtens sand of of thousands like-minded you’re happytoshare anoverdeveloped strip taste. Riminiisnottoeveryone’s Unless resorts,One of mostfamousseaside Italy’s pop 138,500 RIMINI minutes). 30 hourly trainsconnectitwithBologna(€3.10, racetrack. the ofcommodation listsanddetails at events 3-6pm Tue, 8.30am-12.30pmSat) .imola.bo sion €3; ( brick castle–the13th-century corea handsomemedieval andarobustred- crashedanddied Senna in 1994. Ferrari circuit,thetrackonwhich Ayrton mark. To get tothe fromthetrain station Orientation the Kingdomof Italy in 1860. States. Rimini,finallyitsownmaster, joined soon succumbedtoVenice, thentothe Papal his listof short-lived conquestsbutRimini Borgiacentury, Cesare added thecityto 13th century.Atthebeginningof the16th in thehandsof theMalatesta familyinthe Lombard andpapalrulebefore endingup out theMiddleAges, knowingByzantine, The citycontinuedtochange handsthrough­ Rimini sitsatthecentre of theRivieradelSole. Romancolonyofthe important Ariminum, Originally Umbrian,thenEtruscan,and History eateries. and a quickwanderandisloadedwithcoolbars It won’tkeep youforlongbut it’sgoodfor centre, land­ isauseful thetrainstation Halfway and thehistoric thesea between % Birthplace of director Federico Fellini, The townwith isapleasant-enough Imola itself Imola isontheViaEmilia(SS9)andhalf- 0542 60 26 09; Piazza GiovannidalleBandeNere; admis­ 0542 602609;

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lonelyplanet.com E AST OF BOLOGNA •• R imini 469

RIMINI 0 400 m 660 0.2 miles A B C D #‚ 8 INFORMATION Teatro Amintore Galli...... 15 A4 To Public Police Station...... 1 A4 ...... 16 B4 Bathing 31 À" Area (50m); ic Post Office...... 2 B4 ov Pier (100m) Tourist Office...... 3 C4 SLEEPING i Dud 1 Via !0 Tourist Office...... 4 C2 Hostel Jammin...... 17 D4 Ufficio Relazioni con il Hotel Aurora Centro...... 18 D4 66Pubblico...... 5 A4 Hotel Villa Lalla...... 66 19 C3 Rimini Reservation...... (see 4) ?" Adriatic SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Sunflower City Backpacker 28 Sea Arco di Augusto...... 6 B5 Hostel...... 20 B2 Castel Sismondo...... 7 A4

Delfinario Rimini...... 8 C1 EATING @ EMILIA-ROMAGNA

Domus del Chirurgo...... 9 A4 Brodo di Giuggiole...... 21 A4 Parco & SAN MARINO i Museo della Città...... 10 A4 Casina del Bosco ...... 22 C2 Federico llLu de Fellini ca ngomare Palazzo del Municipio...... 11 A4 Covered Market...... 23 B4 H# c

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lla z i ‚ on i TRANSPORT 66e M di 666666on To Hospital eri onale sti Via Ba ali (1.2km) Bike Hire ...... 32 D3 dion

Meri Buses for San Marino &

To Museo To Velvet Club (7km);

‚ To Federico Fellini Airport (8km) ‚ Fellini (50m) A14; San Marino (25km) Rome ...... 33 B3 ‚

centre, take Corso Giovanni XXIII down to Information Corso d’Augusto, hang a left and continue Hospital (%0541 70 51 11; Viale L Settembrini 2) to Piazza Cavour and6666 Piazza Tre Martiri, old 6 Located 1.2km southeast of the centre. Rimini’s two main squares. For the seafront, Police station (%0541 35 31 11; Corso d’Augusto 192) duck under the underpass on the right of Post office ( Via Gambalunga 40) Piazzale Cesare Battisti, the square in front Tourist offices (www.riminiturismo.it); Parco Federico Fel­ of the station, and head straight down Viale lini (%0541 5 69 02; Parco Federico Fellini 3; h8.30am­ Principe Amedeo. 7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun May-Sep, 9am-1pm & 3-6.30pm EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO ntros Sigismondo. notorious as theRoccaMalatestiana, isnamedafter the Rimini’s grandestmonumentisitscathedral, Sun; 1; Rimini’s MUSEUMS the feverish years leading to unification. 19th-century addition,appearingin 1857in old fish market. The side of thesquare, ViaPescheria isthetown’s neither isopentothepublic.On the other ing 14th-centuryGothicPalazzo delPodestà; being razedduringWWII,abuts theimpos­ , builtin1562andreconstructed afterMunicipio piazza. On itsnorthernflank,Palazzo del The city’sfinest PIAZZA CAVOUR 92; Piazza Malatesta; Sismondo the 15th-centuryCastel a finefresco byPiero della Francesca. chapel nearest onthesouthsidehas thealtar balustrades toppedbytubbycherubs. The fromthesinglewidenaveseparated bymarble period’s great architects. The sidechapels are Alberti,oneofthe Florentine the Battista Leon severe oppression of thepeople. included rape,murder,incest,adultery and him tohellforanimpressive of litany sinsthat inRomeandcondemned Sigismondo’s effigy noangel,a rogue:PopePiusII,himself burned of therulingMalatesta clan,wassomethingof Sigismondo Malatesta. Sigismondo,amember tomb of degliAtti,thebeloved Isotta mistress of the transformed inthe15thcenturytohouse 3.30-7pm Sun) 35; the TEMPIO MALATESTIANO &CASTEL Sights &Activities conilPubblico Relazioni Ufficio Cesare Battisti; Mon-Sat Oct-Apr); 470 also three beachfront kiosks, openin also three beachfrontkiosks, summer only. the trainstationofficeisexceptionallyhelpful.There are staffat Multilingual to6pm Mon-SatOct-Apr) May-Sep, Rimini’s Rimini’s town government. 9am-6pmThu,to1pmSat)Free internetprovidedby & Fri, Corso d’Augusto158; SISMONDO

adult/child inclDomusdel Chirurgo€5/3,admissionfree A shortwalktothewestfromcathedral, Most of thechurch’s unfinishedfacadeisby h

Tempio Malatestiano h EAST OF BOLOGNA •• Rimini Rimini OFBOLOGNA•• EAST 8.30am-12.30pm &3.30-7pmMon-Sat,9am-1pm 10am-12.30pm &4.30-7.30pmTue-Sat, 4.30-7.30pm Museo dellaCittà Museo

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train station 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat,to1.30pmSun h h

palazzi hugthisattractive exhibitions only) 9am-1pm &2.30-6pmMon-Wed

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substantial remainssubstantial of Rimini’s dates tothe 1stcenturyAD.Tovisitthein­ (Tiberius’ diTiberio Bridge)end, thePonte whileattheCorso’serected other in27BC, the Atthesoutheastern endof Corso d’Augusto, ROMAN REMAINS & 4.30-7.30pmSat) 6; admissionfree; ( Felliniorabilia atthenewlyrelocated Museo fine floormosaics still intact. recently, withsome openedDomusdelChirurgo original excavation site acrossthestreet atthe tion of thesurgeon’s offices,thenvisitthe alife-sizeYou canwalkthrough reconstruc­ est collectionof Romansurgical instruments. dered incoloured glass,andtheworld’slarg­ rare andexquisite representation of fishren­ a Roman villas,includingsplendidmosaics, English) signage, are findsfromtwonearby eral rooms,withexcellentbilingual(Italian- onthegroundfloor.section Spread over sev­ centrepiecemuseum’s isthearchaeological by DomenicoGhirlandaio. the However, Pietà paintings upstairs, includingahaunting 10am-12.30pm &3-7pmSunmid-Sep–mid-Jun) Sun windsurfing courses and board hire. (aerobics, alsooffer beach gamesetc);several beaches have bars andmostorganise activities north of the citycentre nearthepier. Private The onlyfree you’llfindisatinypatch sand €15 perdayforanumbrella andtwoloungers. by private clubs,which typicallycharge about you’ll bepushedtofindaspare millimetre. in someplaces200mwide,yetcome August riviera boasts40kmof beaches, mostlysandy Rimini’sbeaches heave insummer. TheRimini BEACHES houses. terraced lanes, trendy trattorias,winebars andtrim and isnowacolourfulpatchwork of cobbled fisherfolk’s quarterfreshened hasbeen up Just over thePonte diTiberio, Rimini’sold BORGO SANGIULIANO 70 4422) Comunali the region, theMusei contact theatre % Film buffs willenjoytheFelliniFilm buffs mem­ Most beaches are connected tohotels orrun

mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 8.30am-12.30pm&5-7pmTue-Sat, 0541 50085;www.federicofellini.it, inItalian;ViaNigra (Arch ofArco diAugusto Augustus)was by Giovanni Bellini and an altarpiece andanaltarpiece byGiovanni Bellini

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h . 5.30-7.30pm Tue-Fri &Sun,10am-noon 5.30-7.30pm Tue-Fri , onceoneof thelargest in

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( % 0541

EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO

471 471 0541 37 One of One of One of One of camp sites camp sites )

piadine, dm €18-27, % 0541 2 51 80;

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0541 39 08 00; www.hosteljam % ; 0541 5 51 55; www.villalalla.com (

h noon-late) % Just what a hostel should Just what a hostel % ( Run by three ex-backpackers, ex-backpackers, Run by three ) ( )

www.sunflowerhostel.com; h

i a toasted half-moonpiadina, a toasted of EAST •• BOLOGNA OF Rimini iW

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Mar-Oct; Hotel Villa Lalla Sunflower Beach Backpacker Hostel Hostel Jammin Hotel Aurora Centro Camping Rimini Italia BackpackerSunflower City Hostel 34 32; Viale Siracusa 25; unleavened bread with a savoury filling – filling with a savoury bread unleavened to the wrap. This immensely Romagna’s retort 30 over clientele has built its popular eatery things simple: by keeping years salads, beer, wine and ice-cold desserts. Bask on the patio with a draught You get no airs and graces here, just clean, and graces here, no airs You get simple rooms and a gruff but kindly welcome. hop away. is a quick The beach district in the leafy residential hotels the better between and the train station. the beach Its cool and, in and fresh rooms are smart white a snip. From mid-June to are its rates winter, mid-September open, when the restaurant’s in half-boardit’s a good idea to invest or full are €8 extra per meal). Bikes board (a mere for guests. free Eating o 15; piadine €4-6.20; ing beats a runs this seasonal place, which offers the same the runs this seasonal offers place, which bus 11 from the prices and amenities. Take 24. stop train station to min.com; Viale Derna 22; dm €15-27, s €27-42, d €46-76; h international friendly and full of be: cheap, spot on with clean, The facilities are travellers. bike free terrace, spacious rooms, a rooftop is only a short beach and the and wi-fi, hire stroll away. 82; Via Tobruk 6; s/d €35/60; toys and children’s carpets with threadbare room. around the breakfast littered cheerfully .campingitaliarimini.it; 112, Viserba; Via Toscanelli €10/5.50/11/5; per adult/child/tent/car the coast, grounds along numerous camping the of place 2km northwest this tree-shaded bus 4 facilities. Take requisite has all city centre stop 14. at off stationfrom the train and get Via Dardanelli 102; s €26-49, d €46-79; Sunflower welcomes travellers the chilled-out facilities, spacious with laundry and cooking wallpaper, Powers–style Austin retro lockers, hire. bike pool tables, a bar and free Viale V Veneto 22; s €36-56, d €56-96; Viale V Veneto

10am-6.30pm 0541 70 42 94; h

Rimini Reservation % ( (www.bigliedaspiaggia.it, (www.bigliedaspiaggia.it, 0541 5 22 06; www.rimini 0541 73 67 36; www.

0541 5 02 98; www.delfinario % % ( ( %

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; 0541 37 20 64; www.fiabilandia.it 9am-11pm Jul & Aug, 9.30am-sunset 9am-11pm Jul & Aug, ; Via Ascoli 0541 60 30 50; www.aquafan.it % ( h

) In early April Rimini(www.paganello.com % ( On 21 June Rimini celebrates with dancing, can help.

; Parco Federico 0541 5 33 99; www.riminireservation.it Federico ; Parco Easter-Sep) Dolphinarium beside Rimini’s public Easter-Sep) Dolphinarium beside Rimini’s

All of Rimini’s beaches bear the coveted EU coveted bear the Rimini’s beaches All of % Fellini 3) Fellini (

tels, accommodation can be tricky. In July accommodation can tels, out and booked and August many places are sky-high, especially as many pro­ prices are a lot of insist on full board; in winter prietors If you do arrive up shop. places simply shut lined up, without anywhere Sleeping than 1200 ho­ Ironically for a city with more Sagra Musicale Malatestiana Rimini Jazz Festival Gradisca Cheecoting championship Festivals & Events Paganello Italia in Miniatura

Fiabilandia Fiabilandia Delfinario Rimini Aquafàn price admission to multiple parks. The tourist price admission to multiple ones: Major full list. a office can provide buy a Fantasticket (see www.larivieradei­ buy a Fantasticket granting reduced- parchi.it/fantasticket.php) Love ’em or loathe ’em, Rimini’s theme parks ’em or loathe ’em, Rimini’s Love can The truly committed popular. hugely are THEME PARKS THEME PARKS blue flag as an indication of their cleanliness, their cleanliness, of as an indication blue flag daily. monitored levelsand pollution are Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book hosts the annual Frisbee World Cup. hosts the annual Frisbee jazz.it, in Italian) In summer this is held beside the main beach area. Marina Centro Sep-Jun) Scale models of Italy’s major sights. Bus 8 from Scale models of Italy’s major sights. Sep-Jun) train station. Rimini ; Via Popilia 239, Viserba; adult/ italiainminiatura.com child €19/14; fireworks and eating – it’s estimated that revellers fireworks consume some two tonnes of grilled sardines and 12,000L of Sangiovese wine in that one night. h ; Lungomare Tintori 2; adult/child €12/9; 2; adult/child €12/9; Tintori rimini.it; Lungomare beach. in Italian) Later in April, this involves highly trained ath­ the beach. letes flicking marbles around circuits built on Piceno 6, Riccione; Piceno adult/child €24/18; Jun–mid-Sep) At Riccione, water park. biggest the area’s Bus 42 or 45 from Riccione station. , in Italian) Top classical www.sagramusicalemalatestiana.it in September. conductors and performers, Via Cardano 15, Rivazzurra; adult/child €22/15) One of little kiddies. Rimini’s oldest, this park focuses on fun for EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO Mon-Sat) drinking spots on the seafront. drinking spotson theseafront. pubs andwinebars. There are also plentyof ket), courtyardis crawlingwithtrendy whose andenterCavour theoldpescheria (fishmar­ thebricktriplearchwaythrough off Piazza upwithbarsRimini iswellset andcafes. Head Drinking market covered nuts ontop. Try thepinoli(pinenut),withtoasted whole chain makes goodicecream. some seriously 7.30pm Mon-Sat) on live-jazz Tuesdays. are recommended, especially Reservations of thefreshest, best-prepared fishintown. and anever-changing menufeaturing some panelled diningroom,lanternlit plankterrace great out,withitswood- foranelegantnight off PiazzaTre Martiri, thisintimate spotis meals €35; outdoor deckintheleafysquare outside. the wonderfulvaulted stonecellaroreatonthe andlivenights musiconSaturdays.Drinkin onFriday with eclecticjazz-classicalDJsets partbarandalternativetaurant, nightspot, place’, thisartsy,atmosphericjointispartres­ €30-35) cream. whipped day, forexample,orlocalstrawberrieswith freshest fromthemarket –grilledfish of the supplementedand polenta), withwhatever’s siccia fagioli conpolenta ranging menuof traditionalfavourites like nearly halfacentury,Picnichaswide- meals €30; and rosemary salt. sea grilled onanopenfire with andseasoned rabbit tosteaksaround meat,fromstuffed courses revolve tious surroundings.Second inunpreten­with localingredients andserved isallabout: simple,honestfoodmade in Italy €25-35; to dotheirthing. whileyouwaitfortheguysatgrill beer) 472 h old fishing quarter, thisplaceiswhateating Barge Barge Pellicano Gelateria iTeatiniOsteria Picnic DëBörg Osteria For picnicprovender, loadupatRimini’s Brodo diGiuggiole closed Mon inwinter) EAST OF BOLOGNA •• Rimini Rimini OFBOLOGNA•• EAST Describedbyitsownerasa‘free people’s h .

h ( h % ( lunch &dinner) %

dinner Tue-Sun) closed MonSep-May) 0541 21916;ViaTempio 30; Malatestiano 0541 709845; ThisRimini-based, five-store

( Via Castelfidardo;

( ( % %

0541 28008;Piazza Teatini 3;meals ( 0541 5 60 74; Via Forzieri 12;meals 0541 56074;ViaForzieri (Via S Mentana 10; SMentana (Via Amagnet formodish % Ahomelyosteria Tucked downanalley 0541 26778;ViaSoardi11; (sausage withbeans (sausage

Lungomare C Tintori 13; Inbusiness for h 7.30am-7.30pm h inthe 7.30am­ sal­

.it; ViaSant’Aquilina21; Viale Regina Margherita 52; Margherita Viale Regina Underground, techno and rule. house clubs, 12kmsouthof towninRiccione. Chieti 44,Riccione; from €15to€30foratopgigatbigclub. opposite (see services ). Reckononanything onthe‘in’venuesadvise andtheclubbingbus etic summermonths. Thetouristofficecan bers each weekend andmanymore inthefren­ clubbing venues, of attractingthousands club­ Rimini andnearbyRiccioneare top Italy’s Entertainment andfreebeer snacksat is elbow-to-elbowwithlocalsenjoyingdraught andchairsrustic pubwithlittlewoodentables h views. PiazzaCavour toenjoythefine balmy summerevenings in winter, thendecampoutdoors on wholoungeset insideonleatherchairs h DJs andfrequent live music. irresistible Guinness,regular combo:draught puboffers20-somethings, thisseafront an Alitalia alsoflies nonstop Alitalia to/from Rome. Fellini airport,8kmsouth of thecitycentre. from LondonStansted toRimini’sFederico Ryanair offers direct thrice-weekly flights Getting There& Away VW convertible parked out the front. from thewoodendeckanda‘flower power’ party atmosphere, withpalmtrees sprouting trally located discoexudesasummer-beach­ prime waterfront location,Rimini’smostcen­ .it; Lungomare CTintori 5; artists. performing live-work spaceforinternational visualand till dawn.TheadjacentVelvet Factory isa tures DJs,big-namerockactsanddancing located 8km southwestof thecentre, fea­ soundtrack insummer. beatinwinter andacommercial to aLatin RiminiandRiccione,Gothaswings between lounge barfor1000,onthewaterfront halfway glass pyramidatoneof mostfamous Italy’s main square attractsawell-to-do Gotha Cocoricò Taverna dellaVecchia Pescheria Cavour Caffè Velvet Club Velvet Disco BarCoconuts 7am-midnight) 6pm-2am) ( % ( Inthehistoricfish market, this %

; 0541 478739;www.gotha-rimini.com

h 0541 605183;www.cocorico.it; Thisswish cafe onRimini’s ( ( % %

11pm-5.30am)

h 0541 785123;Piazza Cavour12; 0541 756111; ( % h h 11.30pm-4am) 0541 24422;www.coconuts time.aperitivo 9pm-late) 9pm-5am)

Danceundera lonelyplanet.com

TheVelvet, Anintimate ( Via Pisacane 10; Flauntingits

www.velvet aperitivo aperitivo

Viale

lonelyplanet.com SAN MARINO •• Orientation & Information 473

There are regular buses from Rimini’s train old town is pleasant enough and the views station to San Marino (return €7.40, 45 min­ are spectacular. utes, 11 daily). Several legends describe the founding of By car, you have a choice of the A14 San Marino, including one about a stonecut­ (south into Le Marche or northwest towards ter who was given the land on top of Monte Bologna and Milan) or the toll-free but very Titano by a rich Roman woman whose son busy SS16. he had cured. Throughout history, it’s pretty Hourly trains run down the coast to the much been left to its own devices. Cesare ferry ports of Ancona (regional/Eurostar Borgia took possession early in the 16th €4.90/11.90, one to 1¼ hours) and Bari century, but his rule was short-lived as he (€26.50/48.90, five to six hours). Up the line,

died soon after. Then in 1739 one Cardinal EMILIA-ROMAGNA they serve Ravenna (€3.80, one hour, hourly) Giulio Alberoni took over the republic, but & SAN MARINO and Bologna (regional/Eurostar €7.80/15.20, the pope backed San Marino’s independence one to 1½ hours, half-hourly). and the cardinal was sent packing. During WWII it remained neutral and played host Getting Around to 100,000 refugees until 1944, when the TRAMServizi (%0541 30 08 11; www.tramservizi.it, in Allies marched into town.

Italian) buses operate throughout the city. Local bus 9 runs between Rimini’s train station and the airport (€1, 25 minutes). For Riccione ORIENTATION & INFORMATION (€1.50, 30 minutes), catch local bus 11 from The old part of San Marino, the only ele­ the train station or along the lungomare (sea­ ment of any interest, is essentially one main front); it leaves every eight to 15 minutes be­ street. Enter via Porta San Francesco, as­ tween 6am and 2am. In summer, the Blue Line cend Via Basilicius to Piazza Titano, climb (www.bluelinebus.com) is a special late-night another 50m to Piazza Garibaldi, turn left service with on-board music connecting the up Contrada del Collegio, go to the end out-of-town clubs with the city centre, train 0 200 m

station and camping grounds. It runs from SAN MARINO 0 0.1 miles 2am until 6am and for €4 you can hop on ‚ ‚ A To Rimini B and off at will. 6(25km) !0 To Car INFORMATION For a taxi, call %0541 5 00 20. Park 11 Post Office ...... 1 B3 You can hire bikes and scooters from var­333333Funivia Tourist Office ...... 2 A2 1 ious kiosks on Piazzale Kennedy. Free bikes SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 0000000 Co n t r a d a d e l are also available from Rimini’s municipal 000000 0 Omag n a no Azienda 0000000000 11s " ‚ Basilica Filatelica-Numismatica.... 3 A2 offices (Corso d’Augusto 158). C del 0000000 d Castello della Cesta...... 4 B3 0000000 e Santo V l ‚ 0000000 i P aE ia 6Castello della Guaita...... 5 B2 3333330000000 n <" 0000000P u e o g l Museo delle Curiosità ...... 6 B2 00000V 00r ip lo ia t a p S o 8 # 9 Museo di Stato...... 7 A2 Pi a n i" a F

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SAN MARINO s c Co l l e g i o Piazza o ‚ V ‚ i 3 della S" a # 333333B Piazza Titano Libertà Sa Perched on the top of a 657m lump of rock, 7 a l Piazza Rocca ita s 10 7" i l i Garibaldi alla c Vi the 61 sq km Repubblica di San Marino V i 2 u aD V" ia s S" 6P Fe 6 is Europe’s third-smallest state after the T lic Piazzale o i 5 ;" n ssi Calcigni n ma Vatican and Monaco. Added to Unesco’s333333333 in V" i World Heritage List in July 2008, it’s a S V V" V a ia ia li l ta favourite day-trip destination – over two G e a A l G la O i C a n e million visitors annually make the very V c V s o t ia o i a a f l m r e l i 333333333e i steep climb to the historic centre, which N n F a i V" p d

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SLEEPING i To Car Park 3 samurai swords to San Marino stamps and (200m) locally minted coins, and restaurants do Albergo Diamond...... 9 A2 a brisk trade feeding the visiting hordes. TRANSPORT 333333333Bus6 Stop ...... 10 A2 To Urbino However, if you catch it at a quiet time (ie Funivia Station...... 11 A1 (55km) ‚ during the week, preferably in winter) the333333333 EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO com; ContradadelCollegio40; right thingwithourcontent.’ right theterms andconditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsayingtheabove-‘Do or resell it.See youknow, site,mass emailittoeveryone words, pleasedon’t uploadthischaptertoapeer-to-peer In return, wethinkit’sfairtoask youtouseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposesonly.Inother iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitallyrestricted. © LonelyPlanet.Tomake of asmallmuseum oldweapons. houses towards Riminiandthecoast.Thelatter dominate theskyline,offering superbviews h century 13th-century mission €3) Guercino. Theneo-Gothic by mainstream, canvases includingseveral mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 9am-5pmmid-Sep–mid-Jun) seidistato.sm; diStato the smallMuseo The archaeological artefacts andpaintingsat ). delleCuriosità and strange facts(theMuseo dedicated tovampires, torture, waxdummies bizarre attractionortwo,such asthemuseums Libertà, admire theviewsandperhaps take ina hourly changing of theguardinPiazzadella than strollthehistoriccentre, watch thehalf- There’s notmuch todoinSanMarino other SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES office Tourist Post office ofthe capital this city-state. That’sit.You’ve done you’ll falloffthecliff. Contrado delPianello–thenstopshort or of ContradadelOmagnanoorparallel 474 © LonelyPlanet At thetopof townthetwofortresses, the 8am-8pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 9am-5pmmid-Sep–mid-Jun) SAN MARINO •• Sights & Activities Sights&Activities SAN MARINO •• Castello della Cesta dellaCesta Castello overlooks Piazza della Libertà. (Viale A Onofri 87) AOnofri (Viale

Piazza Titano 1; admissionfree; Piazza Titano ( % Castello dellaGuaita Castello 0549 882914;www.visitsanmarino.

( h %

(admission to1/2€3/4.50;

10am-5pm) 0549 883835; Palazzo Pubblico

h and 14th­ are more

8am-8pm www.mu (ad­

h Contrada delCollegio50;s/d€40/65) rooms above alarge, busy restaurant. Azienda Filatelica-Numismatica Filatelica-Numismatica and coinsattheAzienda to 1amJul&Aug) funivia parkatcar11andtake the necessary, parks andwalkuptothe TheSS72leadsup Calcigni. from Rimini. 45 minutes, 11daily),arrivingatPiazzale runto/fromRimini(returnBuses €7.40, GETTING THERE&AWAY €15. around at with placesoffering mealsstarting set cafes istheviews.Thecentre iswellendowed points andthebestthingaboutsomeof the including so there are afew hotels inthehistoriccentre, to doitjustice,butifyou’re determined todo toovernightYou don’tneed inSanMarino SLEEPING &EATING office. tourist Marino toforkout€5atthe you’llneed visa, ( To get withaSan yourpassportstamped % Food isnotoneof SanMarino’s strong Collectors canpickupSanMarino stamps Leave yourcaratoneof thenumerouscar 8.15am-6pm Mon&Thu,to2.15pmTue, Wed&Fri) 0549 882365;www.aasfn.sm;

(cable car;return €4.50; Albergo Diamond Albergo

up. Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

h

( % 7.50am-sunset Sep-Jun, , withsixmodest centro storico.If

Piazza Garibaldi 5; Piazza Garibaldi /fax 0549991003; .