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Gazetteer and Military Report of the Gilgit Agency, 1927

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Gazetteer and Military Report of the Gilgit Agency, 1927 1 For Official Use O~lv. MOBILIZATION This book is the property of the Government of India. NOTE. The informat'ion given in this book is / Copy NO* 13 4 not to be communic~tedeither directly I or indirectly to the Prees, nor to any : pereon not holding an official position 1 in His Majesty's Service. I ! MILITARY REPORT AND GAZETTEER OF THE GILGIT AGENCY AND THE INDEPENDENT TERRITORIES OF TAHClR AND DARE1 GENERAL STAFF, INDIA SECOND EDITION No. 24180/M0.-3/Bookr. Catalogue No. 0. N. 83. SIMLA. GOVERNMENT OF INDIA PRESS. 1928. The first edition is obsolete and should be destroyed. Officers are particularly requested to bring to notim any errors or omissions in this publioation, or any further authentic ill£orlnation on the subjects dealt with. Such communications should be addressed, through the usual channels, to :-- Tlie Seiiilior General Staff Officer, Army Head quarters, List of Authorities consulted in compilation of this Report. 1. " The Jammu and Kashrnir Territories. A geographical account." By Frederick Drew, F.R.G.S., F.G.SO9etc. 1875 2. " The Languages and Races of Dardistan." By G. W. Leitner, M.A.,. etc.. 1877 3. " Tribes of the Hindu Kush.'; By Major J. Riddulph, B.S.C. 1880 4. " Report on Chilas." By Lieutenant J. A. Douglas, 2nd Bengal Lancers . 1893-94 5. " Report on Khagan and adjoining indepen- dent territory." By LieutenantrColonel A. H. Mason, D.S.O., D.A.Q.M.G. .. 1895 6. "Report on the Gilgit Agency and Wazarat, 1806-97." By Captain S. H. Godfrey, I.S.C., Oficiating Political Agent, Gilgit 1898 7. " Military Report of Chilas." By Captain W. F. T. O'Connor, R.G.A. 1901 8. " Report on the Gilgit Agency." By Major R. E. M. Gturdon, Political Agent in Gilgit . 1906 9. "Report on Chilas." By Captain C. A. Smith, Assistant Political Agent in Chilas 1906 10. Major G. C. Strahan, O.B.E., Kashmere State Infy., Gilgit. (S. S. 0.) . 1927 CONTENTS . PART I . C- I.-QEOGR~PHY. Boundaries Area . Description Mountains Passes Rivers Lakes The Gilgit Wazarat Punial Hunza .. Wagir . Yasin .. Chilas . Dare1 . 'Tangir . Harban . Shatial . .. Sazin .. Shumar .. Origin .. Castes . Character Physique Religion Social custom Laws . Education .. Dress 'OIL' Population Climate . .. .. 28 Health .. .. .. 28 .., . 3Ieteorological . a 29 CHAPTER 1V.-RESOURCE. Agriculture . .. 30 Trade . .. 31 Industrlcs . • . 32 Animals . .. 32 General H'emarkv . Routes . .. Post. and Telegraphs . .. CHAPTER VI1.-HISTORY. Gilgit . .. Punial . Astor . Hunw and Nagir . Pasip . .. I. Chilqs. .. .. #. 0. Dare1 and Tangir . CHAPTER VII1.-ADMINIS~ATION. Gilgit . Punial . .. .4 Hunza and Nagir . .. Pasin .. .. - Ishkupan Chila . *, CHAPTERIX.-MIL~UP. 76 .I b C~a~regXa-Pounc~ Intewl relatiope . .a . c .Q 8? External relations l l . .. 84 PART XI. GAZETTEER. MAP IN POCKET. PART I. MILITARY REPORT THE GILGIT AGENCY AND THE INDEPENDENT TERRITORIES OFTANCIR AND DAREL. CHAPTER I. The eor~ntryembraced by this report is a region of lofty, rocky and for the most part sterile mountains in- tersected by deep and narrow valleys, in which the heat of suinnler and the cold of winter are alike extreme. It. is situated between North Latitude 37O and 35O, and East Longitudte 76O 30' and 72O. Boundaries.--On the north is the Hindu Kush, separating Ishkulnan ancl 1-asin from Wakhan, and on the north-east in corltinuation of the Hindu Kush are the M~istaghmountains, which divide Hunza and Nagir from the Chiriesc Xew ilorninions. On the east lies the S~kardu District of Kashmir. On the west is the Shandur Ran? which divides the Gilgit Agency from the Chitral Districts of Dir and Swat. The southern boundaries are the Burzil Pass on the east, separating the Astor Tahsil of Gilgit from Kashmir, and the Rabusttr Pass, by which communication with the Punjab is maintained /lv'G the Kaghan Valley, while in the Indus Valley the boundary is conterminous with that of Northern Knllistan, Kanctia and Dir. Area.-Thr approximate rlength f ronl the Peak Povalo Shveikovski in the north to the Kamri Pass in the south is 165 miles, while the greatest breadth from the Shaldur Pass in the west to the Mustagh River in the cast is 190. Divieiolu, of the Gilgit &-.-The territor~corn- prid in the Gibt Agency = ~O~~OWB:- (1) The Gilgit Wazwat, which consists of the Tahsil of Gllgit, which includes Bunji and the ,Viabat of Astor. (2) The Ptmial Qovernorship. (3) The States bf Hunza and Nagir. (4) The Governorship of Yasin, Knh and Ghizr,. and of Ishkurnan. (5) The Republican communities of the C&- District, and, for the purposes of this report only. (6) The Independent Territories of Dare1 and Tangir. &gcription.-The whole of the cuuntry is moun- tainous in the extreme. Lofty snow clad peaks, rugged and barren at their base, but softening oE toward their sum- mits into pineclad slopes and grassy levels overhanging precipitous valleys. The only means of ingress and egress is along the stream and ravines which intersect this area of gigantic hills. A glance at the map will show that Gilgit itself is situated in the centre of the most mountainous region of the Himalayas. Nowhere else in the world probably is there to be found so great a number of deep valleys and mighty peaks in so small a compass. The rapid rivers running through the valleys, fed by the snow and glaciers, are mostly unfordable. The steep mountain sides are too bare and stony to sup- port any very great extent of cultivation, which can only he carried out where the valleys widen into alluvial plains on or near the river hanks. Here will be found green fields dotted with orchards, villages nestling among trees, and channeL9 of crystal water, together forming a cheerful contrast to the barrenness which sufrounds them. Such is the character of the country where the Gilgit Agency upholds the might of British India at the meeting place in Central Asia af Afghanistan with the three Empirea of Ru~ia,China and Hindustan. It lies as it were within a gigantic fortress of serrated enowy ram- pa* ; on the west Chitral and the fihandur Range, 0x1 the north the natural glacis of the Pamirs and Chinese Turkistan, un the east the Mostagh mountains, which rising' to enormous heights atretch towards Tibet, corer- in Ladakh with an impenetrable curtain. Mountains.-The mountain ranges, are, as a rule, from 10,000 to 20,000 feet in altitude, the main feature of the whole area being the Hindu Kush. Thi- I*ailge is a continuation of the great Asiatic. water- 'shed of the Himalays and the Karakoram. It is in fact the division between the waters draining into the Indian Ocean and those flowing into the Bra1 Sea. Springing from the Hindu Kush, east of the source of the Tarkhun river, is a grand mountain system known as the Shandur Range, which trends eastwards and sc~util- wards till it joins the Hindu Raj in Chitral near the- Shandur Pass, thus forming the western rampart between Chitral and Gilgit. On the east are the Mustagh mountains, also an offshoot of the Hindu Kush. From each and all of these great systems numberless spurs and minor features take their rise. It is not possible to enumerate the peaks in this area of stupendous moun- tains. Within a radius of 65 miles from Gdgit the sun7eg maps show, amidst countless smaller heights, eleven peaks of from 18,000 to 20,000, thirteen from 20,000 to 24,000, and eight from 24,000 to 26,000 feet. The best known, however, are- Duhunni . * . 20,154 ft. Haramosh . 24,270 ft. Hunza Peak g * # . 25,050 ft. Nanga Parbat . 26,620 ft. Passes.-The following are the more important passes that define- t.he extremities of the country embraced :- On the West-The Dare1 Pass . 16,210 ft. The Shandur . 12,230 ft. The Thui . 14,680 ft. The Darkut .. 15,380 ft. The Karumber or Sokhta Robat . .. 14,050 ft, On the firth-The Khora Bhort 15,000 pt, The Irshad . ' ' ~6,000ft The Kilik . 15?~00&' The Mintaka . 15,430 ft: oiLthe ~ast-The Shingshal or Shimshal . 14,~~~tt, On the south-The Burzil . 13,500 it. The Babusar . 13,580 ftl The Zure . 15,310 ft, The Palesar . - ~i~~rs.-Thprincipal rivers in the Gilgit A~~~~~ * and adjacent Independent Territories are :- The Gilgit River in the Gilgit Wazarat. The Hunza River in Hunza Nagir. The Karurnbar River in Ishkuman. The Warshilip or Yasin River in Yasin, The Ghizr River in Ghizr. The Dare1 River in Darel. The Tangir River in Tangir. The Astor River in Astor. All these are rapid roaring rivers like the Jhelum, quite unnavigable, and only fordable in winter at certain, places. They are for the most part crossed by rope bridges, and animals, as a rule, have to swim. These rivers are, however, bridged where necessary by suspen- sion bridges built and maintained by the Kashmir Durbar on all the main routes. The most important bridges are :- Ghisr river, along which runs main roacl to Chitral. Ghizr a . .. 59 ft. span. Chashi . 20 ft. span. Yasi* ri~cler, along which' the route runs t,o Darkot Pass. Three miles below Yasin . 100 ft. spau* Gilgit her. @upi8--on road leading to Yasin 168 ft. span. Claliu~h-011 roi~d leadillg to Is11koluan . .. 411 ft. $pa11 Gilgit-on road lctidiny to Hunza . 532 ft. span (T! Chamogarh . .. .142 ft. span (?) Bultza ricer. Tashot .. .. 234 ft. span (1) Sikanderabsd . 308 ft. span. Cl~alt . .. 2-19 ft. span. Ramghat--on Main Eashruir- Gilgit road . 172 ft. span. Gurikot-on Main Iiashmir- Gilgit road .
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