PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE; HAIR BY STEPHEN LEWIS AND MAKEUP BY ELAINE OFFERS, BOTH FOR EXCLUSIVE ARTISTS; FASHION ASSISTANT: ZOE CHATFIELD-TAYLOR; STYLED BY HELLIN KAY at MBG Information Services, who has McMillion, president and chief economist fewer retailersthanwedotoday,” saidCharles and inventories accordingly. sprees, andretailerswillhavetoadjustpricing thing: 2009won’tseeanyconsumerspending season. But there is a consensus about one start to come into focus until after the holiday as shoppers once again become savers won’t down withit. prospects bringing thefashionindustry’s store openingsisfinallydeflating—and buying spree and propelled unprecedented Americans filltheirclosetsoveraprolonged The consumer credit bubble that helped By EvanClark And Retailers Suffer Shoppers Trim Credit Plastic GetsSleeved: Extra Credits Extra new accessories lines, seepages 6and7. dress, and holds her leather bag. For more on Barton and Barton wears her pearl and crystal headband and a Diesel third season, which is sold in England and Australia. Here, a handbag collection for the London-based Ri2k, now in its launching a headband line for Stacey Lapidus and already has Those of actress Mischa Barton are cases in point. She’s Despite hard times, celebrity collections just keep on coming. “By theendofJanuary, wewillhavemany How manychainsareultimatelyimpacted W Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Women’s Newspaper Daily •December22,2008$3.00 Wear •TheRetailers’ Daily See Art, page2. on Mobile the brakes Chanel puts s FASHION:

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2 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2008 WWD.COM Chanel to Close Mobile Art Project By Robert Murphy landed in New York’s Central Park in October, the economy was crumbling at an alarming pace. WwDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMonday PARIS — Chanel on Friday said it would pull the Plans have been scrapped to take the exhibit to plug on its costly Mobile Art exhibition that was London, Moscow and Paris. FASHION slated to travel to major cities worldwide in a Lagerfeld said he was “for stopping [the ex- Now hear this: Regardless of the recession, the Space Age prefab structure designed by archi- hibit before] New York.” 6 newest crop of accessories designers aren’t afraid tect Zaha Hadid. “We had so much press [after Hong Kong and to luxe it up a little. The decision comes amid snowballing bad Tokyo] that there was little more to add,” he said. economic news and Wall Street scandals, and “I told Mr. [Alain] Wertheimer [owner of Chanel] GENERAL reflects a new sobriety for luxurious endeavors. not to do New York. It would have been good if The consumer credit bubble that propelled Ameri- “Considering the current economic crisis, we we changed the artists, and used New York art- 1 cans on a long buying spree has deflated and decided it was best to stop the project,” said a ists. Otherwise there was nothing to add. Today, Chanel spokeswoman. “We will be concentrating everyone can say that something is for financial brought the industry’s prospects down with it. on strategic growth investments.” reasons when they want. For me, artistic reasons The economy isn’t stopping Giorgio Armani from Conceived by Chanel designer Karl are more important. I always thought the build- 3 doubling his stake in the A|X Armani Exchange Lagerfeld with Hadid, the Mobile Art exhibi- ing was a sculpture. I prefer it empty.” Lagerfeld venture with Como Holdings to 50 percent. said Chanel planned to put Hadid’s EYE: With its offbeat location and spare ambience, Chanel’s Mobile pavilion in the courtyard of a new 4 it’s a wonder newly opened Café Ze gets any Art Project did not factory being built outside of Paris, make it to London, where it would be used for tempo- business at all, but it’s doing just fine. Moscow and Paris. rary exhibits. INNERWEAR: After its smash campaign with Kate Still, the excess that the project s 8 Moss last year, Agent Provocateur continues to represented didn’t go unnoticed. push the envelope with its hedonistic ads. Nicolai Ouroussoff, architec- ture critic at The New York Times, 9 ACCESSORIES: Italian watch and jewelry brand called it a hoodwink. “The pavilion Morellato opened its first store in the U.S. on sets out to drape an aura of refine- Saturday, at 551 Fifth Avenue in New York. ment over a cynical marketing gim- 10 Ron Kirk, President-elect Barack Obama’s pick mick,” he wrote. “If devoting so for USTR, doesn’t have a record on trade, leaving much intellectual effort to such a many wondering how he’ll approach key issues. dubious undertaking might have seemed indulgent a year ago, today Icelandic retail group Baugur and its executive it looks delusional.” 12 U.K. chairman Jón Asgeir Jóhannesson have been Chanel’s spokeswoman declined indicted on charges of tax evasion. to say how much the project cost. Classified Advertisements...... 15 She added that the artwork included in the exhibit still belonged to the To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is artists. “Chanel has first priority to [email protected], using the individual’s name. buy them,” she said. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Analysts said the decision her- VOLUME 196, NO. 130. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with alded marketing retrenchment for one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and luxury players. “You see how the November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services world is doing,” said one Paris provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. analyst who requested anonymity. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. “It’s not worth marketing when Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian you’re not selling products. We are addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES likely to see a lot less spending on TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA marketing that builds long-term 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed brand image.” on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all Cartier said it was maintaining editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. The exhibit in New York’s Central Park. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online events already planned for next year, at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. tion was one of the most ambitious art-meets- including an exhibit in Beijing of Cartier vintage Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services fashion cohabitations embraced by the luxury jewels in September. that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT and fashion worlds. Chanel planned to use Other watch brands have begun to revise RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, Hadid’s building to accrue brand equity by media spends, however. François-Henry UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR displaying artworks inspired by Chanel’s 2.55 Bennahmias, president of Audemars Piguet ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY quilted, chain-strap handbag. Twenty contem- North America, said the company would re- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE porary artists agreed to participate in the ex- duce its advertising budget for next year by ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. ercise, including Daniel Buren, Sylvie Fleury, 40 percent. Yoko Ono and Wim Delvoye. “We are reconsidering what’s effective mar- The project was born as luxury seemed invul- keting in this climate,” he said. “We think it will DAILY nerable to downturn. But by the time it opened be better to reach out to clients on a one-to-one Today, everyone can in Hong Kong in March, the cracks in the world basis. People who still have money don’t neces- “ economy had started to deepen. The project sarily feel the need to spend now. Marketing- QUote say that something is subsequently traveled to Tokyo. By the time it wise we need to be more focused.” for financial reasons when they want. For me, artistic reasons are more Storms Challenge Holiday Shopping important. I always thought the building By Sharon Edelson ended Dec. 13 were 2 percent behind last year and the Standard & Poor’s Retail Index has lost was a sculpture. I prefer it empty. RETAILERS TRYING TO LURE SHOPPERS BY 31 percent in 2008. offering huge discounts and promotions on the Eight-one percent of consumers plan to re- — Karl Lagerfeld on the closure ”of Chanel’s last weekend before Christmas faced the added duce their holiday spending this year, according Mobile Art traveling exhibition. Page 2. burdens of snow, ice and rain. to a new study by The NPD Group research firm. The stakes were particularly high in what has At the upscale Mall at Short Hills in New Jersey, been a dismal season. The weekend before the “We’re all open…and we have good, solid foot traf- TODAY ON holiday can account for about 11.5 percent of fic that’s building quickly,” said Michael McAvinue, Christmas sales for some merchants, according the shopping center’s general manager. MOST VIEWED to ShopperTrak. Merchants are trying to clear A spokeswoman for Taubman Centers Inc, • Targeting Towels... Carla inventory and salvage what may be the worst which operates properties ranging from Beverly WWD Bruni-Sarkozy’s Dress... .com Christmas sales levels in decades. Center in Los Angeles to the Mall at Short Hills, Sundance Slims Down... ichner As the second snow storm since Friday hit the said the winter weather hurt business in many Jennifer Lopez E • Light It Up... Sienna Northeast, Palisades Center in West Nyack, N.Y., parts of the country last week but, on Saturday, a at the Diane Shows in London... which includes Target, Macy’s and J.C. Penney, short break from the snow brought a strong turn- von Furstenberg Female State... opened on time at 8 a.m. Sunday, but an employ- out of shoppers. “Deeper discounts were taken Spring 2009 • Beauty Joins Holiday’s ee said the mall was “not busy like it would be” this weekend,” she said. “There was lots of pent- fashion show. Steve photo by Discount Mania under normal weather conditions. up demand.” • Pre-Fall Collections 2009 The Pacific Northwest also was socked by a The Saturday before Christmas is second in ferocious storm. importance only to Black Friday, the first shop- • Featured images: the party scene MOST E-MAILED In addition to rolling back prices, retailers ping day after Thanksgiving. • WWDBlog on holiday retail • Inauguration ‘09: What have extended their hours in an effort to entice Weekend storms dumped as much as two feet • Trend: Outerwear Should Obama Wear? • Chanel Cancels cash-strapped shoppers who are cutting back of snow in parts of Northwest while areas of • More photos from ZeZe’s because of rising unemployment, tight credit, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine Mobile Art Tour falling home values and other fallout from the and northeastern New York were expected to re- new restaurant and store • Michelle Obama: What recession. Retail sales for the six weeks that ceive as much as foot of snow. • Global breaking news Should She Wear? WWD, monday, december 22, 2008 3 WWD.COM Giorgio Armani Increases Stake in A|X American Apparel Granted By Luisa Zargani Giorgio Armani has purchased an additional Extension of Credit Facilities MILAN — The economy isn’t stop- 25 percent of A|X Armani Exchange. By Matthew Lynch ping Giorgio Armani from rais- ing his stake in the A|X Armani Shares of American Apparel Inc. got a boost Exchange venture with Como Friday after the firm said lenders granted it a three- Holdings Inc. to 50 percent. month extension on debt due to mature next month, and Nor is the designer slow- that the retailer has seen promising holiday sales. ing his retail expansion, which According to a filing with the Securities and includes openings of Giorgio Exchange Commission dated Friday, the Los Angeles- Armani flagship stores in Tokyo, based firm received an extension of its credit facilities Singapore and Doha, Qatar, with lender SOF Investments, which now have a matu- in addition to the new Fifth rity date of April 20. The debt was due on Jan. 18. Avenue concept store in New “We are pleased to have secured these extensions to York, which will be unveiled in our loan maturities given the current difficulties in the mid-February. credit markets,” said chairman and chief executive of- Armani, who already owned ficer Dov Charney. “Our business has remained encour- 25 percent of A|X Armani aging during the holiday season.” Exchange, said Friday his Charney added the extension will give the company group has acquired an addi- time to pursue longer-term agreements with its lenders tional 25 percent in the joint or consider financing alternatives. venture inked three years For the third quarter ended Sept. 30, the company ago with Como Holdings Inc., listed total liabilities at $196.3 million. called Presidio Holdings Ltd. The amendment to the SOF deal permits the com- Financial terms of the agree- pany to raise additional equity and enter into up to $15 ment were not disclosed. million worth of lease-buyback transactions, as well The deal Armani signed as increase its unsecured indebtedness. If the credit in 2005 gave him the option agreement is further extended, the company’s capi- to buy the additional stake in tal expenditures are limited to $9.3 million in the first November 2008. The venture quarter of 2009 and about $8.5 million over the rest of has helped boost worldwide revenues of the the year. A|X brand, with expected sales in 2008 reach- Fast fashion is a young and In order to secure the extension, American Apparel ing $520 million, up 74 percent since 2005. In the “ paid SOF a fee of $2.6 million and issued the lender three-year period, A|X has opened 75 stores, to- dynamic segment of the market warrants to buy one million shares of company stock at talling 165 banners in 24 countries. $3 a share. If the company fails to raise $16 million in Armani said the joint venture gave “a fresh which I find particularly stimulating.­­ financing by March 13, SOF is entitled to warrants to impetus” to the brand in new markets and in — Giorgio Armani” purchase another two million shares at the same price. new product categories. “Fast fashion is a young The company has a separate credit agreement with and dynamic segment of the market which I find par- especially Japan, China, the United Kingdom and the Bank of America that could become due March 21, 2009, ticularly stimulating when designing my collections,” Middle East. if the SOF agreement is neither extended nor renewed. said the designer, adding he has “always believed that Christina Ong said the joint venture has allowed the American Apparel stock surged nearly 40 percent A|X Armani Exchange has the potential to become one brand to expand in new product categories such as ac- in midday trading Friday before closing at $2.30, up of the world’s strongest youth fashion brands.” cessories, fragrances, eyewear and watches. Ong also 3.1 percent. The designer has over the past few years been vocal noted A|X Armani Exchange was “a pioneer” in online about reaching out to a younger clientele and “democ- communication and retailing, launching its armaniex- ratizing” fashion. Armani said the venture has helped change.com site in 1995 and adding online sales in 1997. the company expand “rapidly” in new markets such as “Our combined forces give us the confidence to look Bill Blass Couture Shuts Down the Middle East, South America, China and Southeast forward to further significant growth in actual and fu- By Rosemary Feitelberg Asia. A|X also plans to roll out new stores in the U.S., ture markets in the years to come,” Ong said. Canada, South Korea, Japan and the U.K. A|X Armani Exchange was launched in 1991, the BILL BLASS COUTURE CLOSED FRIDAY AND LAID “We are determined, as a group, to proceed with our same year it opened its first retail store in Manhattan’s off all of its 60-plus employees without any severance. strategic development, in spite of the worrying general SoHo. For 11 years, the Ongs’ Presidio International Staffers spent most of Friday packing up and saying economic situation,” said Armani. Inc. subsidiary owned A|X Armani Exchange’s assets goodbye. Hardest hit were the more than 20 sewers and Como Holdings is controlled by billionaires Christina and paid royalties to Armani, who owned the trade- workers who first punched the clock when the compa- Ong and her husband, Ong Beng Seng, Armani’s long- mark. Through the joint venture, Armani owns part ny’s namesake called the shots for decades, including time business partners and the licensees of the A|X of the business and benefits directly from its revenue some who were with Blass on his opening day in 1970. Armani Exchange brand. Prior to forming the joint ven- stream. The A|X Armani Exchange business is just one “It’s been a crying-fest up here,” said one employee. “I ture three years ago, A|X was mainly distributed in the component of the Ongs’ partnership with Armani. The cou- never wanted to go through something like this again.” U.S., Canada, Mexico, Central and South America and ple opened the first Armani boutique in 1988 and operate Management at parent the Asia/Pacific region, with the exception of Japan. a number of Armani and Emporio stores. In the Nineties, company NexCen Brands Inc. Through the joint venture, Armani has focused on ex- the Ongs helped rescue Simint, Armani Jeans and A|X spread the word last week, but panding the brand both in existing and new markets, Armani Exchange’s manufacturer, from bankruptcy. did not commit to severance. Some were told they may be eligible down the road, a Bill Blass staffer said. A few former Bill Blass Rolex Taps Bruno Meier as Management Head staffers speculated Sunday that any severance may be By Robert Murphy and Sophia Chabbott ury watch brand, it, like others in the sector, faces contingent on the sale of the significant challenges in the year ahead. The global Bill Blass brand and its ready- Geneva-based Rolex SA is no longer a family recession has seen the skyrocketing watch sector to-wear component. NexCen affair. come firmly back to earth, even as the high-end seg- is said to be negotiating a deal The luxury watchmaker last week named Bruno ment continues to perform well. Exports of Swiss to sell Bill Blass to Peacock, Meier as head of management, replacing Patrick watches declined 15.3 percent in November, under- a company that specializes in Heiniger, who retired from his position of manag- scoring the vulnerability of the timepiece market to men’s neckties, and is eager to ing director and chief executive officer last Tuesday. the economic crisis. finalize one by the end of the Heiniger had held the position since 1992, when he Total exports of Swiss watches last month reached year, due to financial incen- took the reins from his father, Andre. The younger 1.52 billion Swiss francs, or $1.43 billion at current ex- tives established by an undis- Heiniger will continue to be associated with the com- change, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch closed bank. pany in a consulting capacity, but his retirement effec- Industry. The downturn most affected watches made NexCen executives declined tively ends 50 years of the brand being overseen by a of less expensive materials, including steel watches, comment Sunday. However, last member of the Heiniger family. which dove 22 percent in the month. week they confirmed talks were Press reports after Heiniger’s retirement an- Exports of platinum watches jumped 28 percent, sug- under way with more than one nouncement last week linked his stepping down to gesting more expensive pieces continue to fare best in non-financial company. involvement with the Bernard L. Madoff affair, which the downturn. Rather than hope for the the company denied. “We are cautious on watch players,” said HSBC best, the displaced Bill Blass Meier joined Rolex in 2005 as director of finance. analyst Antoine Belge in a note to investors. “We do workers planned to collect un- A look from Bill Blass’ He will be responsible for running the luxury Swiss not know how far consumer behavior in this downturn employment immediately, ac- resort 2008 collection. watch firm’s business along with the board of direc- will resemble that seen on previous occasions, but cording to sources at the company. tors and the management of Rolex SA. historical evidence shows that the watch segment has Highlighting how strapped the company is, sources The company said the brand saw record sales this been more vulnerable than other product categories noted that NexCen plans to sell the no-longer-needed of- year. In June, the company opened a 4,320-square-foot to deterioration in the psychological component of the fice furniture in Bill Blass’ Seventh Avenue showroom. Milan flagship dedicated to the brand, designed by ar- ‘feel-good’ factor.” With his debonair style and steadfast support from chitect Claudio Monti and Rolex’s interior designers. The federation said most markets registered dou- well-heeled friends and longtime clients, Blass built The store houses 200 Rolex styles, plus the $630,000 ble-digit declines in November, although France, the company into a multilicensed enterprise, with $500 GMT Ice men’s watch entirely covered in top-quality Germany and the United Arab Emirates recorded in- million in annual sales in the late Eighties and early white diamonds. creases. Watch exports to China remained stable, the Nineties. That is a far cry from recent sales, which were But while Rolex remains the world’s largest lux- federation said. said to be $500,000. 4 WWD, monday, december 22, 2008 WWD.COM Tagliarelle with Truffle Butter From Ina Garten’s At Home With the Contessa “Back to Basics” Kosher salt One can’t help but approach approached her eight years ago. By 1/2 cup heavy cream Food Network cook Ina Garten’s house that time, she had sold her successful 3 oz. D’Artagnan white truffle butter with a certain set of expectations: that gourmet foods shop, also called Freshly ground pepper she’ll welcome you with a smile Barefoot Contessa, and was working on 1 (8.82 oz.) package of Cipriani and probably a laugh, serve you her second book. “I said no for years. tagliarelle dried pasta or other egg something made with herbs from I don’t want to do it, that’s not who I fettuccine her garden and graciously invite am,” she recalls. “I think they thought 3 tbsp. chopped fresh chives you to sit and stay a while. I was negotiating, but I wasn’t.” When 3 oz. Parmesan, shaved thin with a And, upon entering the barn/ executives signed on British production vegetable peeler studio adjacent to her East Hampton company Pacific Productions, whose home, some of those expectations are work Garten admired, she Add one tablespoon salt to a large fulfilled. She is smiling and there is an changed her mind. pot of water and bring to a boil. appealing coffee cake on the countertop. Now in its sixth season, Meanwhile, in a large 12-inch Only the coffee cake is from a local “Barefoot Contessa” shows sauté pan, heat the cream over mom-and-pop bakery. And the sun shines Garten cooking simple but medium heat until it comes to a brightly on the garden out back, but look sophisticated fare at home. simmer. Add the truffle butter, one closely and you’ll see its fruit on this And like her food, her on-air teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon autumn day is a tad neglected. What’s manner is just as accessible. pepper, lower the heat to very low going on? “Her style is so appealing,” and swirl the butter until it melts. Well first of all, Garten is human. says specialty foods czar Eli Keep warm over very low heat. And lately, she has just been too busy. Zabar, a longtime friend. Add the pasta to the boiling In October she filmed 12 new episodes “And it’s not an appeal that’s water and cook for three minutes of her show, “Barefoot Contessa,” beyond anybody. Anybody who exactly (if you’re not using the and devoted the last six weeks to a wants to be her could be her Cipriani pasta, follow the directions nationwide press tour promoting her it seems.” on the package.) When the pasta latest cookbook “Back to Basics” (her Garten credits her is cooked, reserve 1/2 cup of the sixth). So she can’t really be blamed for popularity with home cooks cooking water, then drain the pasta. a few wrinkled tomatoes. to her own experience, or Add the pasta to the sauté pan and “I love my life, I love writing books, lack thereof, in the kitchen. toss it with the truffle-cream mixture. I love doing TV,” she says, sitting at She’s had no formal training As the drained pasta absorbs the her rustic wooden dining table. “But — her previous job was working on sauce, add as much of the reserved sometimes I get so involved in my work I Ina Garten in the barn at nuclear energy policy at the Carter cooking water as necessary to keep forget how much I enjoy running around her East Hampton home. White House Office of Management the pasta very creamy. and getting flowers, making dinner for and Budget — so she knows what it’s Serve the pasta in shallow bowls [my husband] Jeffrey.” like to be a novice home cook. And she and garnish each serving with a It’s this running around tony East Hampton, as depicted on learned what people like to eat at home when, at her store, the generous sprinkling of chives and “Barefoot Contessa” — Garten zipping around in her convertible roast chicken in takeout containers sold out long before the fancy shaved Parmesan. Sprinkle with salt black BMW, visiting with friendly florists and butchers — that veal with prunes and Armagnac. “I’m not a chef by any stretch of and pepper and serve at once. attracts viewers. But unlike other popular Food Network hosts, the imagination,” she says. “I’m much closer to your experience of you won’t see Garten developing an eponymous line of pots and cooking than Mario Batali.” pans or participating in panels on the food festival circuit. In And she recognizes that these days, as the mercury and the spite of her aforementioned busy fall schedule, she does the best Dow fall, dining in has never sounded more appealing. For a she can to maintain a life outside of work. recent meal with friends she served a pasta with truffle butter “I could do something every day, but I just pick the things that (see recipe) that sounds out of tune with financial times but isn’t, are important to me,” Garten says. “I always think of myself a she says. “The truffle butter is, like, $6. You buy it on the Internet. little like Scheherazade. I want you to have part of the story, but I I’ve got four of them in the freezer all the time.” want you to be waiting around for the other half. I think it’s good Which is a good thing, because Garten shows no signs of to hold back the reins a little bit. It’s good for me, it’s good for my slowing down. The day after her book tour ended, she celebrated life; I also think its good for the brand.” her 40th wedding anniversary by cooking for her husband and a That explains why Garten was reluctant to get into the few good friends. As she says, “That’s my idea of relaxing.” entertainment business when Food Network producers first — Emily Holt

restaurant for decades. “Owning a flower shop and a restaurant — it’s the same thing,” he says For more, see WWD.com. of his new hyphenate status. “Both are a labor of love.” When he moved his floral business to a larger space two years ago, the old location proved the perfect opportunity for his new cafe. It also boosted the neighborhood, long starved for quality eateries, despite its wealthy residents. “We had nothing to eat here,” he says. Zezé solved that problem by tapping husband-and-wife duo Roberto and Monica Bellissimo, both formerly of Le Cirque, to man the kitchen at his latest project. Roberto created a comprehensive menu that includes Franco-American standbys like quiche with arugula salad, coq au Riesling, short ribs and duck confit. “It’s very casual and very European,” explains the chef, whose other half whips up French pastries and made-to-order pies at an off-site location in Brooklyn. Indeed, there is little about Ze Café, including the understated decor, to remind customers of its former identity. “Everyone says to put up more flowers,” says Zezé. “But it’s a recession.” 398 East 52nd Street; 212.758.1944 — Amanda FitzSimons

Looking for a respite from holiday offers a haven from shopping woes and home cooking (or the dirty dishes that yuletide bloat with its healthy American follow)? From healthy living to Chinese cuisine based on the nutritional principles fusion, these other new spots can satisfy of S.P.E. (Sanitas Per Escam). 10 East even the most niche eater. 60th Street; 646-237-8977

Flour Mart John Dory Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto Like their rib-sticking pub grub at the A collaboration between New York chef At first glance, it’s a wonder the newly opened Ze CAFE gets any business Spotted Pig, the menu at Ken Friedman Cesare Casella and the Tuscan-based at all. Not only is the French bistro tucked away on a sleepy side street in Manhattan’s East and April Bloomfield’s latest project is Rosi family, owners of the specialty meat 50s, right near the East River, but there isn’t even a noticeable sign outside to attract the decidedly British, but with a focus on company Parmacotto, this Upper West attention of passersby. seafood. 85 Tenth Avenue; 212-929-4948 Side restaurant offers a full selection of ericksen

But Ze Café is doing just fine. The day it opened, the small eatery boasted 117 customers charcuterie for sale and a small-plates kyle and it continues to attract a steady flow of diners for brunch, lunch and dinner. Macao Trading Co. menu for diners. 283 Amsterdam Avenue; by afe C This might have something to do with the fact that the brains behind the operation is Zezé, the Drawing from Portugese and Chinese 212-877-4800 mono-monikered florist who has built up a dedicated clientele during his nearly three decades in cuisine, this venture from the owners of Ze business. And those same die-hard fans of his arrangements, many of whom are nearby residents cocktail joint Employees Only offers fare Shang of River House and Sutton Place, are now showing their support for his edible fare. like lamb meatballs and Far East libations Every hot new hotel needs an equally “I bring the crowd with me,” admits the Brazilian-born Zezé, who counts Valentino and including a green-tea-vodka concoction. buzzed-about boîte: The Thompson LES centeno; Deeda Blair among his cafe customers. He and his wife and business partner, Peggy O’Dea, still 311 Church Street; 212-431-8750 obliges with this moody restaurant and talaya

maintain his flower shop just around the corner from the restaurant. On a snowy winter’s day, it is lounge featuring multicultural takes by filled with phlox, peonies, dusty-colored roses and the usual holiday trappings of tiny pine trees Rouge Tomate on Chinese dishes from Hong Kong

and wreaths, not to mention beautiful vases, porcelain flowers on iron stalks in terra-cotta pots, Situated around the corner from Barneys native Susur Lee. 187 Orchard Street; photo statuary and a huge stag. New York, this bi-level Belgian import 212-260-7900

It may seem an odd jump from flowers to flour, but Zezé has toyed with the idea of opening a Garten MAGIC

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REGISTER TODAY AT MAGICONLINE.COM 6 WWD, monday, december 22, 2008 Added Attractions Now hear this: Regardless of the recession, the new crop of accessories designers isn’t afraid to luxe it up a little.

Tobi Tobin Vintage Jewelry Who: Tobi Tobin Backstory: Michigan native Tobi Tobin’s career trajectory might make a good script. Tobin moved to L.A. after a stint modeling in Europe. She became a personal assistant, working for Keanu Reeves and others, then an interior decorator. But Tobin also creates clothes, home goods and jewelry, and she plans to open a store for it all at West Hollywood’s Sunset Plaza in May. “You grow a dream, you don’t arrive at one,” she says. Collection: Party-hopping in France last summer, Tobin began creating necklaces to wear, crafted from assorted vintage finds. She uses rhinestone buttons, crystals, bone coat toggles, resin brooches, felt camellias, chandelier pieces, belt buckles and crocodile skin in the strands. On letting go: “The necklaces are like my babies. I love them each so much; it’s hard for me to part with them. I almost want to tell women who buy them that they aren’t allowed to carelessly drop them on the floor after a night out. They should be put in a shadow box instead of in a drawer.” Stats: Wholesale prices range from $250 to $2,600, and the first collection of 35 one-of-a-kind necklaces is sold exclusively at Maxfield.— Rachel Brown

Analeena Who: Lina Hamed Backstory: Lina Hamed got into accessories design because of a perfectionist streak, though a four- year stint as a buyer at the London branch of Hermès certainly stoked her passion for luxury. “I always found a fault in every bag I owned,” Mechante of London recalls Hamed of the pieces she bought before her Hermès stint. Who: Deborah Lyons Years of whipping up specialty items Backstory: Méchante means “naughty” in French, and that sums up for Hermès clients — a crocodile Deborah Lyons’ new collection of stilettos, sandals and wedges. The saddle, for instance — also proved to Aegean palette of whites and blues inspired the line, says Lyons, be good training. a Parsons graduate who spent two years developing the collection Collection: Hamed works alligator, in Florence factories. But shoes aren’t her only creative outlet. stingray and python into her totes and Studying sculpture and painting was helpful too, Lyons points out. satchels, all finished with rose gold “I spend as much time as I can painting and sketching,” she says. hardware. The lining? Pink lambskin. “This way, I hope to keep my aesthetic as fresh as possible.” Stats: Wholesale prices range from $1,180 Collection: The 20-style lineup features pieces with subtle flash — for a python-and-woven metal clutch to python platforms and peep-toe pumps, silk ribboned wedges and $4,585 for a big crocodile shopping bag. flat sandals embellished with glass beads. The line is carried by Harrod’s in London, Stats: Wholesale prices range from $175 to $380, and the spring Zai in Qatar and J Boutique in Bahrain, collection will be sold in Chuckies in New York, Larizia London in among others. — Sarah Haight England and Ounass department stores in Dubai and Bahrain. —­ S.H.­ PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TYLER BOYE, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE TYLER BOYE, JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY Side Actions “ actress, whomadehernameastheteentemptressMarissa Mischa barton iskeen that youcan deliveranddo, like,agoodjob.” really feellike in termsofembellishment andembroidery,” think now always takenapage fromvintagebagsthat fall ’09, the expand distributiontoboutiquesthat sellhersignatureline. initially willbesoldatstaceylapidus.com, but from$80to$200, the be wornontheforehead.Priced O sequinsand flowers. for holidaydecoratedwithpearls,beads, crystals, tried toputboththebohemianandclassicintocollection.” page andseeherinhead-to-toe for beingbohemianandherhippielook,butthenyouwillturna Vanity Fair, thatacollaborationcouldwork.“ A spotted photographsof for S upcoming films. based L T chool President,” dueoutinMarch,andareporter“ chool President,” apidus, beinglaunchedforholiday, theotherabaglinefor xl ne standout is a silk, crystal and pearl upside-down tiara intended to andpearlupside-downtiaraintended to ne standoutisasilk,crystal he B T T R L R he Mischa he headbandventurecameaboutwhen,earlierthisyear, arton’s first accessoriesventure,Mischa ain,” aboutachemicaldisasterin ondon-based company O ose. R . C B i2k, whichissoldintheU. .,” now has two collections of them: one, a headband line for arton planstoworka T I ’ll be able to push that a little bit further and do more ’ll beabletopush that alittlebitfurtheranddomore his convincedthedesigner, aformeraccessorieseditorat B I havetheirconfidence inme. People want tosee S arton for he playsapopularstudentin“ in theL.A.areaandHunnyChicago. and $550to$3,000forbelts.ThepiecescanbefoundinRonHerman,Traffic andFredSegalRocks Stats: AC/DC toMadonna.” because Ithinkhisstyleisreallycool,”Brookssays.“Iwouldlovetoseemystuffonanyonefrom translated intobraceletsnowsportedbytheJonasBrothers.“JoeismyfavoriteBrother, the materials Brooks uses. In Indonesia last year, the designer spotted bandedCollection: agate that he globe insearchofbirds—hehasseen6,300speciesandstones. Wholesale prices for the line range from $46 to $70 for bracelets, $60 to $220 for necklaces Wholesale pricesforthelinerangefrom$46to$70bracelets,$60$220necklaces B arton wearing one across her forehead à la arton wearingoneacrossherforeheadàla S Quartz, tiger’s eye, turquoise, agate, black onyx and black tourmaline are among tacey R ON i2k, isnowinitsthirdseason.For S

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Who: PatriciaLukoszek N Fetish andclubsTheVeil andFetish.Anavidbirdwatcher, henowtravelsthe Backstory: . and Nautica and Daryl K, Patricia Lukoszek found herself imagining ways to apply draping Nautica andDarylK,PatriciaLukoszekfoundherselfimaginingwaystoapplydraping ove to accessories. She wanted a soft, slouchy carrier with none of the flashy hardware punk hotbed. He became an L.A. disc jockey and later owned the shop Vinyl punk hotbed.HebecameanL.A.discjockeyandlaterownedtheshopVinyl often characteristic of upmarket bags. “I actually approach the handbags as if they often characteristicofupmarketbags.“Iactuallyapproachthehandbagsasifthey are clothing,”shesaysofthecollection,whichisnamedforherbirthday. Francisco Sex Pistols concert and learned that Southern California was a I Collection: Underground atMax’s KansasCity,” moved toL.A.afterhewentaSan ndia thatclaimed10,000lives. yoga mat and laptop can easily fit — in shades that range from toffee to russet yoga matandlaptopcaneasilyfit—inshadesthatrangefromtoffeetorusset to lipstickpink. Stats: A mb The springlinewillbecarriedbyBarneysNewYork atMadisonAvenue. ustralia. I haveandlove,

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ry — S.H. — Handbag bags. dress; Mischa Barton Jasmin Shokrian’s Stacey Lapidus and beaded headband for Mischa Barton in her in SaudiArabia. York and Miami, Circle & Square in San Francisco, and D’NA Riyadh a handwoven bag with vintage trim. Retailers include Scoop in New Stats: clutches). Turker produces theentirelineinIstanbul. with hints of vintage (she found Twenties fringe for many of the spring collection withamodernlook(shoulderbagshavemultihuedstripes) Collection: piece,” Turker explains. dimensional surfaceandthentransformitintoathree-dimensional from thecompany:“Designingbagsallowedmetoworkonatwo- clutches and fringed bags she began sketching after her departure clothes. Alongtimepaintinghobbyservedasinspirationforthe staff at Tocca, where she was more drawn to accessories than with a degree in textile design, Serra Turker worked on the design Backstory: Who: SerraTurker

Mi Wholesale prices range from $100 for a canvas bag to $500 for Wholesalepricesrangefrom$100foracanvasbagto$500 s e l After graduating from the Rhode Island School of Design a Istanbul-born Turker drew on her Turkish roots to craft a up, and Fred Segal promptly placed an order. Kareen. She spent the next few weeks whipping one I can bring it in a few weeks,’” says the L.A.-based I thought,‘I’mgoingtotellalittlewhitelieandsay trip. “Sheaskedtoseemycollection,andonthespot buyer at Fred Segal spotted during another shopping of a pair of earrings she’d seen at Barneys, which a couldn’t afford to shop. Kareen made her own version in 2002 when she was going through a divorce and Collection: Backstory: Who: ShahlaKareen diamond and ammonite fossil earrings. The collection molar and gold pendant to $6,100 for an onyx, Stats: as fossils, bear molars and real sea horses. diamonds, Kareen is partial to more exotic media such collection is offbeat. In addition to gold and March. launched in Selfridges and Kabiri, both in London, in is available at Maxfield in Los Angeles, and will be — S.H.

Ludivine Wholesale prices range from $316 for a bear Wholesale pricesrangefrom$316forabear — Jessica WWD, mon ShahlaKareen’s jewelrycareerbeganback By fine jewelry standards, Kareen’s I redale d ay, d ecember 22,2008 WWD.COM

PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE; MISCHA BARTON'S HAIR BY STEPHEN LEWIS AND MAKEUP BY ELAINE OFFERS, BOTH FOR EXCLUSIVE ARTISTS; 7 FASHION ASSISTANT: ZOE CHATFIELD-TAYLOR; STYLED BY HELLIN KAY 8 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2008 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Agent Provocateur’s Swashbuckling Romp

By Karyn Monget about opening stores and exist- ing stores is the high propensity If escapism is A pathway of sales coming from a particu- to selling in a tough economy, lar area, and we look at Web then Agent Provocateur may be sales and geographics where we on the right track. have pockets of consumer base. After dressing Kate Moss as a In the U.S., Chicago has been on runaway bride in an advertising target for a while. We certainly campaign last spring that caused get a fair propensity of people Agent Provocateur’s Web site coming to our New York store on to crash when the model’s fans Mercer Street from Chicago.” flocked to view the images, the Corre said customer service British lingerie brand and retail- and research are important to er keeps pushing the envelope. the business. The latest ad campaign, titled “We are very focused on ser- “Pan and the Vestry of Virgins,” vice to our customers and try to will hit magazines and agent- look after them, and recognize provocateur.com in January. It’s who they are,” he said. “All of the the third of a four-part series girls in the stores have customer of saucy themes of “Tableaux books; we have a Club Agent Vivants” that will follow a suc- Provocateur on our Web site and cessful “Pirate Provocateur” ef- people can watch videos, and fort launched in November fea- people get newsletters and a pre- turing model Helena Christensen view of sales. It’s quite easy for as the “Pirate Queen,” said Joe us to look at these patterns.” Corre, co-founder of the brand He added that the format of and creative director. the boutiques vary, with each Visuals of the January cam- Agent Provocateur’s Joe Corre and Mick Jones of The Clash having its “own character.” paign are not yet available, (far left) oversee the Pirates’ swashbuckling party. “As a general rule, I don’t like but several Bacchus-inspired shopping malls,” Corre said. “We vignettes will feature models don’t like to take a shell-box. We portraying Agent Provocateur Helena Christensen is the Pirate Queen. like to find something interest- maidens under siege and Pan, ing about them. That’s what we the Greek God of fertility. The did with our first store in Soho final theme will be “Picnic in London.” Debauch,” set to run in late Asked about launching a unit spring. The series kicked off in during the recession, Corre said September with “The Season the “decision to open the store of the Witch,” which Corre de- in Chicago came before this eco- scribed as a “dark and sinister” nomic climate.” coven of witches in Gothic, lace- “When we started the Agent edged lingerie who have cap- Provocateur brand in 1994 in the tured a few sacrificial virgins. U.K., there was a strong reces- Explaining the concept of sion,” he recalled. “It’s not like the ads, Corre said, “Again, with we’re going off like gang bust- Pan we were looking at various ers, opening up stores all over ideas. Pan is a very pagan motif the place. Stores take 18 months and it’s all about rites of spring, For more, to three years to really establish and it fitted very well with our see WWD.com. AA sketchsketch ofof thethe ChicagoChicago boutique.boutique. themselves. That’s across the spring collection. There’s a board in retail. We like to estab- certain wildness about it, like lish a business with customers Pirates. But it’s light, angelic and mythi- wouldn’t think of seeing them,” he said. photographed by Tim Bret Day. who make a purposeful trip to our stores.” cal with a certain softness and conveys The posters feature a gallery of single On the retail front, Agent Provocateur, As for the brand’s merchandising, the pleasures of the pagan ritual. shots on their reverse side with a riddle which was acquired by private equity Corre feels it’s properly priced. Retail “Pirates is very popular with us be- and clues hidden in the images. Customers firm 3i in November 2007 for an estimat- prices run from $55 for a cotton brief to cause they are outlaws and in a way, Agent who solve the riddle for each campaign ed $123 million, opened its ninth U.S. $900 for a woven silk kimono. Provocateur is a brand which was started will receive a to-be-determined prize, and boutique in Chicago on Dec. 8. The other “We use high-quality fabrics and lace independently and carved its own path customers who solve all four riddles will U.S. boutiques are in New York, Boston, from France and Italy, and the manufactur- through the fashion industry,” he said. “In a receive a “really great prize,” Corre said. Miami, San Francisco, Los Angeles and ing is top notch,” he said. “Our products in sense, it doesn’t necessarily obey the rules Although Corre said it would have Las Vegas, as well as two in-store shops the end are still an affordable luxury. You of retail marketing and appeals to the inner been amusing to portray Pan in the cam- at the Bloomingdale’s flagship in New spend a couple of hundred dollars, stay at outlaw of people. It looks like such a romp.” paign, he did appear in the main image of York and the South Coast Plaza store in home during this economy, and wear your Poster catalogues of the campaign the Pirate Provocateur ads in the belly of Costa Mesa, Calif. There are 44 store lo- lingerie and have a good time.” are available at Agent Provocateur bou- the pirate ship alongside guitarist Mick cations worldwide. Regarding a collection of men’s in- tiques, where customers can pick one up Jones of The Clash, wearing a pirate Asked how the lingerie specialist nerwear, Corre said, “We’ve considered free of charge, Corre said. coat designed by his mother, Vivienne gauges retail hot spots, Corre said, “One doing it for some time. We probably will “They’re all over London, in places you Westwood. The four-part campaign was of the things we look at when thinking in the future.” Jeannie Lee Does Bocini Lingerie for Anthropologie LOS ANGELES — Jeannie Lee, designer and owner of Satine Lee, who spent several years living in Italy before opening Boutique here, has created her first collection of intimates for her five-year-old West Hollywood boutique, also designs an in- Anthropologie, called Bocini. house line of dresses, pants, sweaters and outerwear. The bou- The collection and brand name are coowned by Lee and tique has a celebrity clientele, including January Jones, Lucy Virginia Pereira, with whom Lee designed the understated Liu, Lindsay Lohan, Nicole Richie and Christina collection of bras, panties and chemises. Aguilera. Stylists such as Rachel Zoe are also fans The designers said they took inspiration from “everything of the high-end retail space, where lines such as 3.1 Italian,” as well as men’s wear details such as buttons and Phillip Lim and Alexander Wang are sold. keyholes with strong vintage references. Sizes will be XS, S, The Bocini intimates line is set to launch next M, L and XL. Suggested retail will be $18 to $88. month in a majority of Anthropologie’s 120 free- “Anthropologie asked us to do something with a standing stores and the anthropologie.com separate identity from the other lines they carry,” said Web site. Lee, who spends time in the flea markets of Paris find- A bra and panty Addressing Anthropologie’s first collabora- ing peasant tops and lace pieces for inspiration. set by Bocini. tion with a specialty boutique, Wendy Wurtzberger, “We didn’t want to create something overtly sexy, but chief merchandising officer, said, “Jeannie has a it had to be sexy because the girl or woman wearing different perspective but one that is very compli- the pieces is sexy herself,” Pereira said. mentary to Anthropologie.” That would explain the subtle and flattering cuts The line will also be carried in the Satine in everything from silk to jersey and pointelle cot- boutique on Third Street in Los Angeles. The tons, finished with rustic lace trim and embroidered store is set to relocate across the street from its Jeannie Lee and details. Fabrics include striped silk and floral prints in original location in February 2009. Virginia Pereira a muted palette of taupe, blush and ivory. — Hellin Kay KRISTIN BURNS PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2008 9 WWD.COM Accessories Report Morellato Feels It’s Time on Fifth Avenue By Caroline Tell MORELLATO IS ON THE MOVE. The Italian watch and jewelry brand opened its fi rst freestanding store in the U.S. on Saturday, in New York’s landmark French Building at 551 Fifth Avenue. Designed by Milan-based SGS Architects, the 1,600-square-foot bou- tique houses Morellato’s jewelry, watch, writing instru- ment and leather goods collections. Morellato & Sector Group, which operates the Morellato and Sector divisions, as well as multiple watch and jewelry licenses, is a major player through- out Italy, with sales of $368 million. The Morellato brand encompasses 42 percent of the country’s fashion jewelry market share, according to the company. In the last year, it opened several boutiques through- John Galliano watches, launching next year. The com- out the world — in Shanghai; Panama; Cancún, Mexico; pany’s licensed products retail at higher prices, with London, and Berlin — bringing the total freestanding Pirelli watches capping off the assortment at $14,750. store count to 57 worldwide. Marco Frison, chief ex- As to whether the fi rm is planning a larger-scale U.S. ecutive offi cer of the fi rm’s U.S. subsidiary, Morellato rollout, Frison said Morellato would prefer to remain a & Sector USA, expects that, in the next three years, 40 niche brand. percent of the company’s business outside Europe will “We need to let Morellato enter slowly into the U.S. take place in the U.S. He anticipates the new store will market,” he said. “Our strategy is not to open a lot of exceed $1 million in sales after its fi rst year. fl agship stores. Our target mission is to let American “Morellato wants to do things in the U.S. in the right people know more by having a few important locations. way,” Frison said. “The distribution we have in Europe and We are, however, considering an aggressive marketing the structure is something we cannot replicate exactly in the campaign and examining our wholesale capabilities.” U.S., so we’re studying the right way to enter and the right Morellato is in talks to expand distribution into depart- moment to enter. This is a tough moment for the economy in ment and specialty stores. The fi rm’s Just Cavalli collec- general, but the Morellato concept is so strong in perceived tion can be found throughout Nordstrom and Macy’s East. value. We’re offering prices that are unbeatable, which puts Morellato dates back to 1930, when Giulio Morellato us into a special positioning. We want to let our customers opened a watch repair shop in Bologna, Italy, before going have a luxury experience and an emotional experience.” on to specialize in leather watchbands. When he died in All Morellato products range in price from $35 1965, his closest colleague, Silvano Carraro, took over the to $300. The new store will offer the fi rm’s accessi- fi rm. In the years following, a string of major investments bly priced jewelry and watches from its own labels were made in the company as it took on a leading role in — Morellato, Sector and Philip Watches — as well as European watchband marketing and licensing. from its licensed brands, which include Roberto Cavalli In 1990, Carraro turned over leadership of the com- Here and left: The Morellato Timewear, Just Cavalli Time, Just Cavalli Jewels, Miss pany to his sons, Massiwmo and Marco, who are seeking store in New York.

Sixty watches, Miss Sixty jewelry, Pirelli watches and to elevate the brand into a global player. JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY

The Swarovski Crystallized Store Bamford Customizes Online and Lounge. By Nina Jones LONDON — Bamford & Sons, the British ready-to-wear and accessories brand, is letting its customers give the label’s new line of customized Rolex watches a per- sonal touch. Earlier this month, the label launched a Bamford Watch Department Web site that allows customers to play designer and cus- tomize details such as their watch’s bracelet colors, dial indices, date color and write their own text on the watch’s face. Customers can see the results of their designs on a virtual watch on the Web site. The company currently offers the customization service on a Rolex Submariner watch that retails from Swarovski Sparkles With Crystallized Store 5,500 pounds, or $8,110. “Everyone likes to be exclusive,” said SWAROVSKI IS KNOWN FOR PARTNERING to create custom jewelry that will ship to custom- George Bamford, director of the Bamford with leaders in design, art and fashion, but the ers’ homes within two weeks. The store offers Watch Department, who added his idea for firm’s next collaboration is with its customer. access to more than 2,000 crystals in a range of the watches came about after his wife gave The Austrian firm’s loose-crystal division, colors, cuts and shapes, as well as silver- or gold- him a Rolex Submariner on their wedding Swarovski Crystallized, is launching a retail con- plated cords on which guests mount their de- day with a heart in the place of their wed- cept bowing in New York’s SoHo neighborhood signs. Shoppers can also buy a Swarovski ready- ding date on the date dial. “We can go to the this spring. The Swarovski Crystallized Store to-wear design. Nth degree for our customers.” and Lounge will enable customers to create their Prices at the Swarovski Crystallized store de- Since the site’s launch, Bamford said Bamford’s own jewelry through an interactive design pro- pend on the design. A single crystal on a cord can customers had asked for details such as customized watches. cess and view the work of current fashion jew- retail at around $60, while a piece that involves a their birthday in a contrasting color on the elry designers. number of faceted crystals can cost $600. An ex- watch’s date dial. Whatever combination of colors customers choose, the “Our true origin of collaboration is one of the hibition and lounge space adjoins the store and watches are all coated with a military grade technique called physical greatest in the world,” said Markus Lampe, se- features work by jewelers such as Kenneth Jay vapor deposition. The technique colors the watch a deep black color nior vice president of marketing for Crystallized Lane and Janis Savitt. and renders it scratch-proof. While customers can design their watch Swarovski Elements. “We’ve worked with fashion “We are always supporting young designers on the Web site, once they have decided to make a purchase, a Bamford and jewelry designers and have a strong link to with creative potential. It is in the DNA of the representative contacts them to discuss the design. the world’s best designers. But when we looked brand,” said Lampe. “We will exhibit design “We wanted to give a personal feel to the Web site, so you feel like back into that strength and planned for the fu- pieces in our lounge so consumers can experi- you have a personal service,” said Bamford. ture, we felt the consumer was not experiencing ence the kind of collaboration we stand for and At its Sloane Square fl agship in London, the company also offers those integral facets to our brand. Our current enjoy — outstanding designs by outstanding Rolex models such as the Daytona, which the company has already retail concept offers jewelry designs, but we felt people. The space will also offer a platform for customized to its own design, alongside its own Bamford & Sons sports there’s a lot more we can do in addition to involve design schools or classes working on a project. watch that retails for 275 pounds, or $405. The store also carries watch our customers.” It will be an open, creative space for temporary paraphernalia including an aluminum watch canister that Bamford Inside the store, shoppers are encouraged exhibits.” devised after his own watches were scratched while being transported to sketch their own jewelry concepts either on While the fi rm does not have major rollout in a leather watch roll, and a watch repair kit by G Lorenzi. sketch pads or laptops, or weave through in- plans, another Swarovski Crystallized Store and A pokesperson from Rolex in the UK said it doesn’t condone any spiration books of existing Swarovski designs. Lounge will open in Shanghai this spring. alteration to its watches, but added those watches are “no longer ser- Consultants are on hand to assist those who opt — C.T. viceable by Rolex.” 10 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2008 WWD.COM Industry Seeks Clues to New Trade Chief’s Stance FASHION SCOOPS DKNY MOVIN’ OUT: DKNY is the latest designer name By Kristi Ellis Kirk will also appoint a chief textile negotiator, who is to opt out of the tents for the February shows. The responsible for assisting in trade negotiations on industry- sportswear label is still planning a show, but it WASHINGTON — Ron Kirk, President-elect Barack Obama’s specific issues and works closely with importers and domes- will be at the Stephan Weiss Studio Feb. 15 at 1 pick for U.S. trade representative, doesn’t have much of a tic textile producers. p.m. The event will be a bit of a test run, since the track record on trade, leaving many in the fashion industry Industry lobbyists said they were unsure how Kirk will Donna Karan Collection will also be shown there wondering how he’ll approach key issues. craft trade policy. Feb. 16 at 2 p.m. Obama announced the selection of Kirk, a former mayor “I know nothing about him,” said Erik Autor, vice presi- While DKNY celebrated its 20th anniversary of Dallas, to the cabinet post at a press conference in Chicago dent and international trade counsel at the National Retail with a runway show in Bryant Park, the company on Friday, along with nominating Rep. Hilda Solis (D., Calif.), Federation. “Maybe [Obama] was looking for somebody who has bounced around to different venues over the a strong union supporter and advocate for workers’ rights, as didn’t have a track record on trade. When you are caught years, including Lever House, Pastis and the Weiss secretary of labor. Both must be confirmed by the Senate. between pro-trade forces and protectionist forces, maybe Studio. “It’s not such a diversion. We’ve done all “As mayor of Dallas, Ron helped steer one of the world’s that’s a logical choice to go with somebody you can present sorts of things,” company spokeswoman Patti Cohen largest economies,” Obama said. “He has seen the promise as neutral or middle of the road without an agenda.” said. “Cost is always a consideration. This is the of trade, but also the pitfalls, and he knows there is nothing Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American most cost-effective way — it’s our space, we already inconsistent about standing up for free trade and standing Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, said Kirk’s appoint- have the seats, the runway and the lighting since up for American workers.” ment is somewhat “disconcerting,” although the jury is still collection will be shown there.” Kirk was the first African-American mayor of Dallas, out on how he will lead. DKNY follows in the footsteps of Vera Wang, serving in that position from 1995 until 2001. He is now a “The appointment is going to an individual that hasn’t who said last week that she will show in her new partner with Houston-based law firm been significantly involved in trade downtown store. Carmen Marc Valvo and Betsey Vinson & Elkins LLP. policy or trade issues,” said Tantillo. “It Johnson are also moving off-site for this round. Some of Kirk’s views on trade, such USTR nominee does give you some reason for concern. J.Mendel, Monique Lhuillier and Reem Acra are also as his support of the North American Ron Kirk. However, we also recognize that on the considering other options for February. Free Trade Agreement, appear to be positive side, he may not be bringing a at odds with Obama’s rhetoric on the doctrinaire, theoretical viewpoint to the HAIR APPARENT: The columnist Peggy Noonan campaign trail when he said he would table on trade.” called Illinois Governor Rod Blagojevich a “a lipless, consider renegotiating the trade pact Solis was elected to the House in dull-featured, wig-wearing moron.” Chris McMillan, between the U.S., Mexico and Canada. 2000 and is a proponent of increas- who did Jennifer Aniston’s shag, sniped “Jack Lord However, Obama later moderated ing the minimum wage, having spear- called. He wants his look back.” his stance, saying he would bring the headed the effort in California as a But one person happy to defend the embattled two countries to the table to discuss state senator to raise the state’s mini- governor — or his hair, at least — is the similarly strengthening labor and environmen- mum wage to $5.75 from $4.25 an hour coiffed real estate mogul Donald Trump. “It looks tal provisions. Kirk has also supported in 1996, and supports the Employee solid to me,” Trump said by phone of Blagojevich’s granting permanent normal trade rela- Free Choice Act, a bill that would hair. “At this point, I’d say hair is his biggest asset.” tions with China. allow for a card-check system to or- So that thing isn’t a wig? mages “As a leader, negotiator and princi- I ganize a workplace instead of closet- “I think it looks real. Again, hair is not his pled proponent of trade, Ron will help etty ballot elections. problem.” make sure that any agreements I sign A labor-friendly pick, Solis, the But it does seem to be part of it from a p.r. as president protect the rights of all daughter of a Mexican father and a standpoint, wouldn’t you say? workers, promote the interests of all Nicaraguan mother, has ties to sweat- “Yes, people are jealous of it,” said Trump. “I Americans and preserve the planet we shop issues in the apparel industry. As hope you say I said that with a laugh.” all share,” said Obama. a California state senator in 1995, she

As USTR, Kirk will oversee an agen- NICHOLAS KAMM/AFP/G represented the city of El Monte, which GOOD TIDINGS: Rag & Bone’s David Neville and by cy of about 200 people with a budget of was the center of one of the most egre- Marcus Wainwright proved they’re anything but $40 million. He will carry out the presi- gious sweatshop abuse cases in the U.S. Scrooges. They bucked two of the season’s biggest dent’s agenda, lead trade negotiations photo apparel industry. trends by hosting a launch/holiday party to fete their with foreign countries and enforce ex- Solis led hearings on the El Monte new men’s store on Christopher Street last Tuesday isting agreements, including filing unfair trade cases at the case, in which federal officials uncovered more than 70 night. “I wanted to get carolers,” said Neville, while World Trade Organization where warranted. Thai immigrants working in virtual slavery to sew clothing admiring the atmospherically apropos snow flurries Kirk will inherit outstanding issues with implications for for several U.S. apparel brands. The case spawned a na- during a small post-party dinner at I Sodi. Among the fashion industry that may have to be addressed early tional movement against apparel sweatshop abuses head- the handful of diners was “Late Night”-bound on, including: a case the U.S. filed on Friday against China ed by then-Labor Secretary Robert Reich in the Clinton Jimmy Fallon, who divined on-air potential from the at the WTO, alleging the Asian country provided illegal ex- administration. evening. “We should do your fashion show on my port subsidies for several industries, including textiles and “Hilda Solis has been an outspoken advocate for the show,” said Fallon. “That would be hilarious.” apparel (see separate story); the elimination on Jan. 1 of rights of garment workers,” said Bruce Raynor, general quotas on textile and apparel imports from China; pending president of UNITE HERE, pointing to her leadership in TYING THE KNOT: Nigo, the founder of Japanese cult trade deals with Colombia and South Korea, and a mori- state government in California. “She understands the ap- brand A Bathing Ape, married his girlfriend, actress bund WTO global trade round that has limped along for the parel industry and the plight of workers in this industry… Riho Makise, in a small civil ceremony last week. The seven years without any breakthrough on a global tariff- and she will be a great advocate for our industry in preserv- two met four years ago and made a joint-appearance dropping trade treaty. ing jobs in the U.S.” at Fendi’s massive Tokyo bash in 2006. Dec. 16 is considered a lucky day on the Japanese calendar. It was also a busy one for Nigo since he put in an appearance U.S. Accuses China of Illegal Export Subsidies at GQ Japan’s annual bash later that evening. By Liza Casabona Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition. “We believe this is a slam dunk. China’s actions are so blatant and clearly out- WASHINGTON ­— The U.S. filed a World Trade Organization side the boundaries of what’s allowed under the WTO, that case against China on Friday for allegedly providing illegal we have no doubt China will be required to eliminate these subsidies in several export categories, including textiles programs.” and apparel. Cass Johnson, president of the National Council of Textile The case centers on China’s Famous Brands programs that Organizations, said, “What is astonishing is that the USTR were ostensibly set up to help the country build and promote case makes clear that the Chinese Central Government its own brand names. U.S. trade officials charge the programs implemented these large programs after China joined the include export subsidies that are prohibited by WTO rules WTO and committed to following its rules. The U.S. textile STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY and signify an underlying government protectionism. industry is extremely concerned that China will use these, Tom Wolfe, David Lauren and Mark Seliger. “We were disturbed to find that China still appears to be as well as many other subsides, to surge into the U.S. mar- using WTO-illegal measures to promote its exports, ranging ket once quotas on Chinese textile and apparel products are TWO MEN IN FULL: Retail might be slow, but Ralph from textiles and refrigerators to beer and peanuts,” said removed on Jan. 1.” Lauren’s West Broadway store was doing a brisk U.S. Trade Representative Susan Schwab. “We are going U.S. importers are challenging whether the Chinese gov- business of selling Mark Seliger’s latest coffee-table to the WTO today because we are determined to use all re- ernment programs crossed over into illegal subsidies or tome, “The Music Book,” at a packed party last sources available to fight industrial policies that aim to un- were within WTO rules. Wednesday night. The photographer was there to fairly promote Chinese-branded products at the expense of “Clearly [the case] is targeting the textile sector, which inscribe pages for fans, as was the author of his American workers, farmers, ranchers, manufacturers and makes us a bit nervous,” said Julia Hughes, senior vice foreword, Tom Wolfe. intellectual property owners.” president of international trade for the U.S. Association of “We met riding motorcycles,” said Wolfe, who The U.S. alleges that China subsidizes select export cat- Importers of Textiles & Apparel. was clad in his trademark white suit. “But only egories through measures such as preferential loans and What is less clear, she said, was the extent to which the the beginner riders wear leather jackets,” he said, cash grant rewards. A range of categories are part of the case will involve Chinese apparel exports. pointing out Seliger’s own black leather one. But, Famous Brands program, including textiles and apparel, “This does not prove that there is bad stuff going on in in all seriousness, he attested, “Mark does so health products and household appliances. There are addi- China,” said Stephen Lamar, executive vice president, much research for each of his photographs that his tional illegal export subsidies in sectors, including textiles, American Apparel & Footwear Association. pictures are worth 100,000 words.” for products that do not participate in the Famous Brands WTO cases can take years to work their way through the As for the pictures in question, they show program, trade officials said. system, which was established to resolve disputes between musicians from the past 20 years Seliger has been The domestic textile industry last year lobbied the USTR members. Mandatory consultations aimed at settling the shooting, from Kurt Cobain to Justin Timberlake. to file a case. charges will be triggered by the case. If that interaction is not And even though it was Seliger’s book party, he “This is a significant step forward in the fight- toin productive, the case would move to dispute settlement, and didn’t take a break from snapping, even asking a ject fairness back into our trading system with China,” a WTO panel would render a binding decision on whether bystander to take a group shot of him with Wolfe said Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American China has given its domestic industries illegal subsidies. and David Lauren on his digital camera. Business as Usual

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IN PRINT | ONLINE | IN PERSON 12 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2008 WWD.COM Shoppers Cut Back on Credit, Retailers Pay Price Continued from page one not run up credit card bills — no matter how much they Stores also might get more involved in issuing credit to been trying for years to raise the alarm on consumer want that Downtown tote from Yves Saint Laurent. shoppers. Wal-Mart Stores Inc.’s Web site on Friday was indebtedness. “Whether attitudes have really changed is something offering a credit card with no interest on Wal-Mart credit And it will take even longer to know how consumer that only time will tell,” said Scott Hoyt, senior director card purchases of $250 or more if the minimum payments attitudes toward credit are changing. No one is expect- of consumer economics at Moody’s Economy.com. were made and the balance is paid off in a year. ing a complete return to the Depression-era, mattress- Consumers wanting to build financial reserves are Nicholas said retailers are also issuing more cards as-savings-account mentality, but credit in all its forms going to have to actually put away savings rather than with lower limits and special deals, such as six months is falling out of fashion. wait for the value of their stock portfolios or their to pay down debt. “We don’t know how long it will last, but this is defi- homes to give them a boost. Although charge cards with a limit of just $100 or $200 nitely a new attitude toward credit,” McMillion said. In past downturns, consumers had somewhere they might be a relatively novel wrinkle, retailers have a long “The majority of households have probably been spend- could sock away their money. For example, some inves- history with branded cards, which are used as marketing ing more than their aftertax income for four years. They tors who got burnt in the dot-com bust began pouring tools and appeal especially to loyal customers. were able to refinance their homes, and they were able money into their homes in 2000. There is risk, however, whenever a retailer arranges to get loans of one type or another, whether with credit “Now there doesn’t even appear to be a safe haven,” credit for its shoppers. cards or something else. Now that they don’t have ac- Hoyt said. The ratio of store-branded charge cards that were cess to new debt, they don’t have any choice but to cut The government recently began selling Treasury more than 60 days delinquent in November rose to 4.8 back spending.” bills that yield no interest, and investors jumped at the percent, up dramatically from 3.9 percent in August and Even though people are shying away from new debt, chance to put their money somewhere that was safe, 3.7 percent in November 2007, according to Fitch Rating’s declining values on homes and other assets means the even if it wasn’t profitable. Credit Card Index. Most of the cards in the index can amount of debt held, as compared with total net worth, “What we’re going through now isn’t nearly as only be used at the store where the consumer got them. has continued to rise. bad as the Great Depression,” Hoyt said. “The Great “Rising delinquencies will pressure card issuers and Household debt to net worth reached a record 25.8 Depression impacted an entire generation in terms of their retail partners during the coming year as Fitch percent in the third quarter, above expects a scenario akin to nearly the 24.3 percent in the second quar- one in eight cardholders default- ter and percentages closer to 15 Retailers are going ing on their store cards,” said Mike percent seen in the severe 1981-82 to have to adjust Dean, managing director, when the recession, according to McMillion’s to consumers index’s shift was reported earlier analysis of the Federal Reserve’s using less credit. this month. flow of funds report this month. Most retailers that operated the As they watched the stock market back-end financing of their credit implode and Washington take over card operations got out of that busi- large swaths of Wall Street, consum- ness earlier this decade, with Target ers were loath to take on new loans Corp. and Nordstrom Inc. the most — or were unable to as banks reined significant exceptions among fash- in lending. Total consumer credit ion retailers. fell at an annual rate of 1.6 percent There are benefits to credit card in October, according to the Fed. operations. Chains can control Much of this was driven by a steep- just how much to lend, and they er 2.5 percent reduction in nonre- also can pull in additional income, volving credit, such as auto loans. though they can be left with signifi- Revolving credit, such as credit card cant financial burdens when the debt, was down 0.2 percent. economy sours. “What we’re seeing is a dramatic “It’s a huge competitive advan- retrenching in households in terms tage for the two or three retailers of the debt they hold,” said Frank who were clever enough to keep Badillo, senior economist at TNS their own credit card operations,” Retail Forward. “We’ve seen an ex- said James Smith, chief economist pansion in the availability of credit for Parsec Financial Management. by the financial industry that helped “They can expand without having to drive a boom in retail spending and worry. For the rest of them, they’re retail expansion. Now that that easy issuing a GE card or a Citi card or credit has disappeared, it’s clearly some other major lender who’s taken away one of the key drivers of tightening the screws like there’s retail sales in recent years.” no tomorrow.” Last week, TNS predicted sales would not see a clear their saving and spending behavior.” But many consider credit card operations to be more rebound until 2010. So far this year, retail sales outside But he added that today’s economy is “probably bad of a liability than an asset as the credit markets tight- of automobiles and gasoline rose at an average rate of enough to have some impact on consumer behavior from ened with the financial crisis. 2.3 percent, and the consulting firm expects that rate is a longer-run perspective.” Target’s net write-offs for bad debt nearly doubled slated to slow to 2 percent next year. Inflation-adjusted Despite all the comparisons with the Thirties, many in the third quarter to $210 million, from $107 million a sales are expected to ultimately rebound to 4 percent economists said the economy is in better shape today year ago. As of Nov. 1, the discounter had allowances of growth, down from the 5 percent pace averaged over the simply because policy makers are acting aggressively, if $765 million to cover doubtful accounts, up 43.7 percent past 10 years. not consistently, to avoid another Great Depression. The from a year earlier. In May, the firm sold a 47 percent in- The downdraft in credit also means shoppers are problem is, there’s really no telling where the meltdown terest in its credit card receivables to J.P. Morgan Chase going to be on the lookout for deals more than ever — that began with subprime mortgages and then spread to for an initial investment of $3.6 billion. and not just during this dismal holiday season. banks and investors and everyone else will take us. Even as Americans scramble to save money, they “Consumers will be bargain shoppers,” said Sara “There’s little confidence in things being stable, have a long way to go to catch up with their counter- Johnson, managing director of global macroeconomics and credit relies on an atmosphere of stability,” said parts around the world. at IHS Global Insight. “They’re definitely looking for Leon Nicholas, director of retail insights at MVI U.S. households will have saved 1.6 percent of ways to cut their monthly spending and put a little more Retail Insights. their disposable incomes this year, according to away in their savings accounts or pay down debt. Going Even in a shifting economic landscape, characterized the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and forward, we will see a higher savings rate than over the by recession, job losses and fears for the financial sys- Development. Meanwhile, households in France, past five years.” tem, there are things stores can do to cope. Germany, Ireland and Switzerland all would have saved Some of this shift in attitude is simply an ebb in the Layaways, a tactic that’s being promoted anew by more than 10 percent of their disposable incomes. And, usual cycle. Economists expect consumers to take a Sears and Kmart stores, will become more prominent, observers say, if American saving rates approach those more cautious stance during recessions and therefore Nicholas said. levels, retailers face an even tougher time. Baugur, Asgeir Jóhannesson Indicted in Tax Evasion Case By Samantha Conti ing state prosecutor. port its U.K. chairman, and together we ness associate, Jón Gerald Sullenberger. The indictment refers to tax re- will take necessary steps to resolve the However, the court rejected several LONDON ­— Icelandic retail group Baugur turns from 1999-2003, inclusive, when situation. We would also like to reiterate other charges prosecutors had brought and its executive U.K. chairman Jón Jóhannesson is alleged to have “mis- the indictment will have no impact on against Jóhannesson, including fraud, Asgeir Jóhannesson have been indicted counted taxable earnings,” according to Baugur’s operations.” embezzlement and misleading the mar- on charges of tax evasion as part of an the reports. Helgi Magnus Gunnarsson, the public ket by wrong statements to the stock ongoing investigation into the compa- “The Icelandic authorities have issued prosecutor at Iceland’s economic crime exchange. Jóhannesson had appealed ny’s books. an indictment against the Baugur Group unit who handed out the indictment, did against the conviction earlier this year. On Friday, a spokeswoman for and its executive U.K. chairman for al- not return phone calls Friday. Over the past six years, he has been Baugur, which has stakes in companies leged tax law violations,” a Baugur state- In June, Iceland’s Supreme Court in dogged by charges of fraud in Iceland, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Matthew ment said. “The case is merely a continu- Reykjavik upheld a conviction against which were resolved with the high Williamson and French Connection, ation of the Baugur case, which has now Jóhannesson for wrongdoing in book- court’s verdict. However, Gunnarsson confirmed Icelandic wire reports that been going on for six years and for which keeping. Jóhannesson was found guilty said Friday he is investigating pressing Jóhannesson and the company were is- Jón Asgeir has been cleared twice. along with his former chief executive of- separate tax fraud charges relating to sued an indictment by the country’s act- “The board of Baugur continue to sup- ficer, Tryggvi Jónsson, and a former busi- Baugur and Jóhannesson. WWD, monday, december 22, 2008 13 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com. IN BRIEF Weekly Stocks 52-Week Volume Amt • GUCCI AMERICA, CHLOE WIN CASE: A federal judge in 52-Week Volume Amt Manhattan has issued a consent judgment ordering the High Low Companies p/E Last Change High Low Companies p/E Last Change operators of a Web site that sold counterfeit goods to pay 83.98 13.66 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 4.8 14045840 22.84 1.77 51.96 8.02 J. Crew (JCG) 9.4 12343680 12.58 -0.23 Gucci America Inc. and Chloé SAS $5.2 million. According 28.23 9.04 Acadia (AKR) 12.1 2018548 15.51 1.28 51.42 13.95 J.C. Penney (JCP) 5.9 21776196 19.92 -0.59 to documents filed in U.S. District Court for the Southern 3.78 0.47 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) - 592002 0.65 0.02 7.70 2.50 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 209578 4.97 0.18 District of New York on Dec. 15, Jennifer Marie Kirk and 37.40 12.52 Aéropostale (ARO) 8.3 11265033 17.04 1.67 1.67 0.24 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 4.1 1924816 0.37 0.08 Patrick Kirk did business online as Thebagaddiction. 29.40 19.32 Alberto Culver (ACV) 10.5 4093936 22.98 -0.39 22.12 2.34 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 9590954 6.22 0.80 com. In a complaint filed in June, the two luxury brands accused the California residents of selling counterfeits to 15.28 2.23 American Apparel (APP) 6.4 4080094 2.30 -0.94 50.58 15.38 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 9.0 1852829 26.42 0.19 the public and for resale as wholesalers through the Web 23.84 6.98 American Eagle (AEO) 7.5 27818332 9.81 -0.18 19.74 5.78 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 6170575 6.79 -1.42 site. According to the consent judgment, which is typical- 29.23 3.74 Ann Taylor (ANN) 9.5 11721833 6.07 0.09 47.80 9.56 Kimco Realty (KIM) 13.7 41061207 18.85 2.86 ly rendered when both sides agree to the judge’s ruling 420.00 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 28.7 757876 246.25 -2.75 56.00 24.28 Kohl’s (KSS) 11.9 24865387 35.68 0.33 to end further litigation, the defendants never answered 45.34 17.45 Avon (AVP) 18.1 23456664 23.46 0.34 20.76 9.93 K-Swiss (KSWS) 12.3 962533 11.71 0.19 the initial complaint. In addition to the monetary judg- 13.83 4.57 Bebe (BEBE) 11.4 2746891 7.57 1.10 18.98 9.47 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 11.0 5769485 11.81 -2.44 ment, Judge Lewis Kaplan granted Gucci and Chloé an 56.72 32.32 Beiersdorf * (BEI:HM) 18.4 5528337 40.48 -0.37 22.16 6.90 Limited Brands (LTD) 5.7 36409015 9.39 0.75 injunction, barring the defendants from further trading 13.30 4.80 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 7.0 738634 5.78 0.24 22.78 1.46 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 7361917 3.21 -0.07 in counterfeit products bearing the companies’ names or 6.25 0.30 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 0.5 17409 0.60 0.02 7.05 0.35 LJ Intl. (JADE) 11.2 1579846 0.91 0.00 marks. The Web site is no longer in operation. The attor- 44.29 26.36 BJs (BJ) 16.2 9684655 34.68 -0.30 99.97 53.32 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 13.8 5939379 63.40 2.26 ney for the Kirks declined comment. 0.29 0.07 Blue (BLHI) - 210243 0.14 0.02 50.60 6.82 Lululemon (LULU) 12.4 4159142 8.17 0.72 • LF USA CLOSES DEAL: LF USA, a subsidiary of Hong 9.00 0.56 Bluefly (BFLY) - 178063 0.56 -0.32 26.66 12.51 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 13.7 4960403 13.35 -0.69 Kong-based Li & Fung Ltd., said it completed the acqui- 11.79 0.76 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 446531 1.16 -0.14 89.36 38.10 LVMH * (MC:PA) 10.7 11791696 47.02 0.36 sition of Van Zeeland Inc., a New York-based designer 18.44 4.34 Brown Shoe (BWS) 8.7 4872631 9.42 3.24 76.50 8.31 Macerich (MAC) 8.5 33587273 20.84 6.55 of handbag brands that include Kathy Van Zeeland 44.57 13.57 Buckle (BKE) 10.0 5116290 22.68 1.12 28.47 5.07 Macy’s Inc. (M) 6.5 73763478 10.62 2.12 Handbags, B. Makowsky and Tignanello. LF USA said 11.48 4.25 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) 10.5 5097134 4.50 -0.17 17.59 6.25 Maidenform (MFB) 8.1 6687655 9.99 0.21 in August that it was buying the firm for $330 million. 686.50 154.75 Burberry * (BRBY:L) 6.6 13761431 221.75 11.75 669.00 191.90 Marks & Spencer * (MKS:L) 5.6 39788864 225.75 2.00 16.29 4.18 Cabela’s (CAB) 5.9 1906902 7.24 0.17 30.05 8.33 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 10.5 5099466 15.00 1.90 • GEN ART FASHION DIRECTOR: Gen Art has hired 14.86 1.41 Caché (CACH) 11.5 582205 1.99 -0.06 29.51 5.94 Movado (MOV) 4.3 4164521 7.83 0.33 Christine Park as fashion director. Most recently with 54.20 24.16 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 10.2 25583327 27.34 -1.18 25.00 10.03 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 9.2 11951645 16.57 2.14 Housing Works Inc. as director of giving, Park has 22.39 11.94 Carter (CRI) 15.1 4790960 19.28 0.70 12.12 0.82 New York & Co. (NWY) 7.4 1763145 1.96 0.14 been a partner in the contemporary start-up line Jean 5.80 0.35 Casual Male (CMRG) - 1761649 0.41 -0.20 5.90 0.07 NexCen (NEXC) - 4435038 0.08 0.00 D’Arc, and was chief operating officer at Steven Alan. Based in New York, Park reports to chief executive of- 19.38 11.30 Cato (CTR) 14.3 1131372 14.31 -0.13 70.60 42.68 Nike (NKE) 14.1 25171494 51.26 1.89 ficer Ian Gerard and replaces Lee Trimble, who left 27.55 2.53 CBL (CBL) 13.2 14691709 7.48 1.55 2.33 0.03 Nitches (NICH) - 51123 0.26 -0.05 in August after five years to become events director at 9.95 3.01 CCA (CAW) 6.6 43071 3.50 0.00 40.59 6.61 Nordstrom (JWN) 5.5 43757752 12.70 0.04 Starworks. Park’s role will be less focused on produc- 2.59 0.18 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 161194 0.21 -0.04 9.10 5.95 Orchids Paper (TIS) 12.9 5618 7.30 0.13 tion and more on strategy and curating fashion content 20.61 3.98 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 7.7 1465360 6.71 1.25 29.88 4.48 Oxford (OXM) 7.4 1824492 9.07 3.81 as Gen Art seeks to extend its reach and audience in 7.00 0.57 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 16072242 2.88 1.22 15.90 1.01 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 3238903 2.02 0.28 2009. Gen Art is an arts and entertainment organiza- 82.17 57.10 Chattem (CHTT) 20.8 1288731 68.76 4.16 7.15 2.42 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) 34.9 371249 2.75 -0.18 tion that showcases emerging fashion designers, film- 36.97 11.55 Cherokee (CHKE) 9.5 326995 16.35 -0.05 31.18 2.21 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 10785292 7.31 2.77 makers, musicians and visual artists. 10.92 1.72 Chico’s (CHS) - 26085976 4.38 0.83 29.27 3.40 Perry Ellis (PERY) 4.5 1098433 6.46 -0.38 43.40 14.92 Children’s Place (PLCE) - 4023379 20.10 -1.51 47.94 13.04 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 6.3 4305553 19.94 1.71 • ASPEN FASHION WEEK: Aspen is hosting its first fashion week March 1 to 5 to showcase the almost $3 billion 13.79 2.46 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 9.8 1580920 5.01 0.92 2.37 0.35 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 21924 0.38 -0.16 skiwear industry. Luxury retail stores in downtown 34.59 19.51 Cintas (CTAS) 11.9 11839870 22.38 -2.50 82.02 31.22 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 10.3 8483100 46.73 2.44 Aspen will host 15 designers presenting their winter 28.12 7.01 Citi Trends (CTRN) 13.2 1037247 12.63 -0.68 141.50 31.06 PPR * (PP:PA) 5.3 6592433 47.04 7.04 2009-10 collections during in-store presentations, plus 37.64 13.19 Coach (COH) 9.9 30695164 21.00 0.75 33.67 10.35 PriceSmart (PSMT) 15.7 1104375 20.69 1.95 nightly events and après-ski soirees, for buyers, the 8.31 0.91 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 4720673 2.98 0.21 10.67 0.80 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 8820447 1.91 0.38 media and customers. In 2010, organizers plan to ex- 81.98 54.36 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 18.3 21536749 65.00 5.78 8.84 4.91 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 7.8 73204 5.09 0.08 pand the event to full-scale runway productions. 21.00 3.85 Collective Brands (PSS) 23.9 5302029 11.43 1.16 24.28 3.45 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 4.6 898790 5.84 -0.56 49.49 26.07 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 10.4 1550847 35.80 1.26 73.55 23.36 Regency Centers (REG) 17.1 12666306 43.67 6.64 • DUNNING APPOINTMENT: Mike Dwyer has been named 75.23 43.88 Costco (COST) 18.7 30840287 53.79 0.39 7.46 0.90 Retail Ventures (RVI) 2.3 8810246 3.22 1.72 to the newly created position of head of men’s wear for 42.45 0.79 Crocs (CROX) - 7257758 1.43 -0.09 14.85 0.67 Revlon (REV) 3.1 848711 6.95 0.89 Dunning, a men’s sportswear and golf brand. Dwyer, 0.18 0.02 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 56739 0.03 -0.02 83.00 16.88 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 4.5 18814685 20.08 -1.68 who was formerly senior director of men’s wear at Burberry Ltd. and senior vice president of sales 166.50 46.27 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 14.0 3594422 76.00 9.58 41.56 21.23 Ross Stores (ROST) 13.1 12726553 29.21 1.25 and marketing at Lacoste U.S., will report to Ralph 3.50 1.50 Delia’s (DLIA) 176.0 611593 1.80 0.05 3.72 0.44 Safilo * (SFL:MI) 6.5 2831057 0.59 0.00 Dunning, founder of the Canadian company. Dwyer 9.34 2.09 Delta Apparel (DLA) 18.9 42659 3.65 -0.21 22.19 2.67 Saks (SKS) - 6757586 3.95 -0.41 will assume primary responsibility for growing the 20.21 6.07 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 5949418 7.76 -0.68 114.00 26.80 Sears (SHLD) 20.2 10264736 39.14 -6.02 brand’s account base among better department and 45.66 1.73 Developers Diversified (DDR) 4.1 25798187 4.73 -0.96 106.43 33.78 Simon Properties (SPG) 29.5 35596853 54.66 2.66 specialty retailers while enhancing relationships with 23.11 2.50 Dillard’s (DDS) - 3708958 3.78 -0.09 25.20 9.25 Skechers (SKX) 6.4 2815692 12.31 1.32 existing Dunning retail stores. He also will oversee 17.93 6.16 Dress Barn (DBRN) 8.8 6820405 10.78 1.67 3.37 0.17 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 20739 0.16 -0.16 the company’s presence at upcoming apparel industry 20.69 7.30 DSW (DSW) 13.6 1619677 11.61 1.57 6.71 0.99 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 1308550 1.19 0.01 events, including MRket, The Collective and regional 33.00 8.50 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) - 133017 10.42 0.21 29.00 13.37 Steve Madden (SHOO) 14.9 1151897 20.05 0.02 trade shows in Charlotte, N.C.; Chicago, and Dallas. 8.72 0.30 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 715869 0.49 0.06 76.50 23.20 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) - 1042502 28.55 -0.65 21.79 10.55 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 57.5 3819867 11.47 -1.56 17.86 7.30 Syms (SYMS) 203.8 82052 9.18 0.00 54.75 24.24 Estée Lauder (EL) 12.1 10714575 29.63 0.03 17.97 1.19 Talbots (TLB) - 2521936 2.30 0.18 WEEKLY 32.50 14.62 Family Dollar (FDO) 15.7 15174340 25.32 0.81 10.62 1.59 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 30713 1.76 -0.29 12.43 1.48 Finish Line (FINL) - 3964028 5.72 0.06 3.67 1.70 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 6.9 35995 1.79 -0.07 CHANGE WWD 44.73 11.51 Fossil (FOSL) 7.4 4700778 15.53 1.73 46.30 24.62 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 50.1 5869690 37.09 0.12 ENDING 4.25 0.16 Fredericks of Hollywood (FOH) - 704469 0.22 0.00 59.55 25.60 Target (TGT) 10.8 57432778 34.42 -1.42 ( DEC. 19 ) INDEX 15.91 7.71 Freds (FRED) 40.2 2739196 9.98 -1.02 1.28 0.21 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 525065 0.43 0.05 % 196.75 30.00 French Connection * (FCCN:L) 131.0 11050240 41.00 3.75 92.35 17.47 Taubman (TCO) 40.0 8512431 27.27 -0.17 22.02 9.41 Gap (GPS) 10.2 46297106 13.57 0.38 5.76 0.30 Tefron (TFR) - 156836 0.40 -0.10 Gainers Change Composite 44.23 0.24 General Growth (GGP) 7.3 41870839 1.75 -0.05 49.98 16.75 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 10.5 12262849 24.53 1.72 Retail Ventures 114.67 738.07 39.38 10.37 Genesco (GCO) 2.9 3338646 16.75 3.17 19.72 7.19 Timberland (TBL) 13.1 2042278 11.87 0.71 Charming Shoppes 73.49 23.00 4.77 G-III Apparel (GIII) 6.4 3429114 6.52 1.54 37.52 17.80 TJX Cos. (TJX) 9.9 34609310 20.65 0.85 Oxford 72.43 42.74 7.76 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 6.9 4965427 9.63 0.85 64.48 29.12 Tod’s * (TOD:MI) 11.3 204078 30.85 -0.35 Penn Real Estate 61.01 15.38 0.75 Glimcher (GRT) - 2233811 3.69 0.53 31.82 9.83 True Religion (TRLG) 7.2 3626372 12.54 1.39 40.90 18.73 G&K (GKSR) 12.0 789885 20.59 -0.63 33.73 2.07 Tween Brands (TWB) 6.0 1560783 5.01 0.72 Brown Shoe 52.43 0.96 0.22 Gottschalks (GOTT) - 3182886 0.16 -0.28 47.16 16.05 Under Armour (UA) 25.8 4915527 24.88 -1.10 45.21 10.26 Guess (GES) 6.5 10894898 14.37 -0.46 5.43 1.80 Unifi (UFI) - 2732218 2.76 -1.34 Decliners Change 47.69 16.48 Gymboree (GYMB) 7.9 3308943 25.00 1.33 38.25 20.22 Unilever (UL) - 5799958 23.34 1.26 Gottschalks -63.64 14.75 2.20 Hampshire (HAMP) - 2352605 4.00 0.00 38.40 12.33 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 13.0 25602539 15.13 -0.20 Sport-Haley -49.91 37.73 8.54 Hanesbrands (HBI) 7.9 6639220 13.19 2.98 84.60 38.22 VF Corp. (VFC) 9.7 5660221 55.62 2.56 Bluefly -36.36 0.30 0.08 Hartmarx (HTMX) - 5699192 0.09 -0.03 28.88 6.39 Volcom (VLCM) 7.2 1387227 11.00 0.99 433.50 239.50 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:ST) 17.3 12627302 311.00 4.00 63.85 43.11 Wal-Mart (WMT) 16.1 119028600 55.74 1.11 Casual Male -32.79 +23.79 131.89 59.42 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 38.4 1687879 104.10 -0.66 53.89 12.22 Warnaco (WRC) 11.1 5748202 20.92 4.45 Unifi -32.68 8.98 3.90 Hot Topic (HOTT) 20.0 5594238 8.00 0.27 40.00 8.27 Weingarten (WRI) 9.1 13533126 21.11 2.35 24.34 13.27 IAC Interactive (IACI) - 8622932 16.35 -0.18 5.54 1.81 Wet Seal (WTSLA) 7.0 8519467 2.70 0.41 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of 22.80 5.11 Iconix (ICON) 7.6 5700039 9.07 0.41 41.99 23.82 Weyco (WEYS) 17.9 206729 33.50 0.63 their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange 53.90 23.29 Inditex * (ITX:MC) 15.8 15038224 32.15 1.32 31.21 16.24 Wolverine (WWW) 10.9 2619477 21.46 1.51 are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quot- ed in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish 19.96 5.04 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 9.1 968919 7.65 -0.11 30.89 2.93 Zale (ZLC) - 5410307 3.32 0.13 kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. 1.96 0.17 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 6859972 0.23 -0.01 28.84 4.50 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 11.1 2041162 8.30 -0.08 14 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2008 WWD.COM MEMO PAD COSMO’S APOLOGY: British Cosmopolitan has sound.” The goal of the magazine is to help Moncler Arrives in Hong Kong issued an apology to Scarlett Johansson after build “a direct relationship with the new media the title published comments it attributed to public, bloggers’ universe, social networks and By Constance Haisma-Kwok the actress about her marriage to actor Ryan digital communities,” said the company. — Inside the Moncler Reynolds, quotes her publicist later described as Luisa Zargani HONG KONG — Italian outerwear store. “wholly fabricated.” brand Moncler opened its first “Cosmopolitan would like to apologize to our CLOTHES CALL: Longchamp’s next campaign freestanding store in Asia this readers and Scarlett Johansson for inaccuracies shines the spotlight on the leather goods month, welcoming swarms of in our January issue, where we said she talked house’s burgeoning women’s ready-to-wear shoppers eager to buy quilted about her marriage and her relationship with line — along with its bags. Shot in Los Angeles jackets and matching boots on a her husband,” the magazine said on its Web by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, the photo 71 degree December day. site Friday. “We now understand Ms. Johansson series features Kate Moss and Sasha Pivovarova Remo Ruffini, president and has not commented publicly on her married against a retro green wall, dressed in pieces creative director of Moncler, said life and did not do so on this occasion.” The from its 12-piece spring collection. Focused the 1,500-square-foot store, lo- apology will also appear in British Cosmo’s on outerwear, the line ranges from a silk and cated on the second floor of the February issue. cotton blouse to a sporty linen trench in the high-end IFC shopping mall in Johansson’s p.r. rep said Friday that it hadn’t house’s iconic LM horse print. “The idea is to Hong Kong’s Central District, un- yet been decided whether the actress would take create key items you can mix with everything,” derscores the city’s key position further legal action against the title, which is said Sophie Delafontaine, Longchamp’s artistic on the retail scene. published by Natmag, a wholly owned subsidiary director. Codes from the house’s leather goods “I think Hong Kong is the most of Hearst Magazines. lines surface across the designs, distributed important city for fashion in As reported, while part of the story that in Longchamp’s 100 doors worldwide, such as Asia; in our point of view, it’s the appeared in British Cosmopolitan was bamboo toggles and leather trims. capital of shopping here,” said taken from an interview with Johansson While some previous campaigns have Ruffini. The new store’s neighbors that U.S. Cosmopolitan published in shown Moss in her birthday suit, with only a include Valentino, Etro, Roberto August, the additional quotes in which the large Longchamp for modesty, the spring ads Cavalli and de Grisogono. actress allegedly discussed her marriage resemble classic fashion editorial. “Today, This is the first time Moncler were attributed to an agency journalist, handbags have become so much a part of the has opened a monobrand shop Francesca Williams. Johansson’s p.r. said that fashion world,” said managing director Jean that is not wholly owned by the “Francesca Williams” later turned out to be a Cassegrain. “It’s important we have a line of company. Instead, it is a franchise pseudonym. — Nina Jones ready-to-wear to express our fashion personality.” operated by Amma Holdings, the He said, however, that clothing represents less retail distribution firm owned by

WEAVING A WEB: Dolce & Gabbana went online than 5 percent of its business. The campaign Adrienne Ma. Gareth Jones Photo by last week with its own magazine, Swide.com, breaks in a range of February glossies, with “Collaborating with Adrienne focusing on fashion as well as luxury, art, no change in budgets versus the first half of is interesting. She is our first lection. “In 2002, our sports collection music, food, beauty and lifestyle. The company 2007. “We are lucky to be a fully family-owned partner in retail — it’s an opportunity was 80 percent of sales, now it’s less promises “original concepts with a journalistic business. When we talk of a time line it’s not for us to grow,” said Ruffini, who de- than 5 percent. The ski collection is a edge,” blogs and an unconventional tone. The in terms of the next quarter, but [rather] a long- scribed the opening as “an important small business. The collections have English-language magazine is put together by term view,” said Cassegrain. Coming in January challenge that sees us directly com- grown to be very wearable, while an independent editorial office and the main is a “making of” movie about the campaign for mitted to an opening schedule that still bearing the Moncler signature,” categories linked to the home page are: Style, the Longchamp Web site, which receives more will not only involve all of China, but Ruffini said. a focus on collections and styling suggestions, than 300,000 monthly hits. — Katya Foreman the Asian continent as a whole.” The store’s design is based on such as Look of the day and Must-haves; Ma did not elaborate on plans for Moncler’s “city concept” unveiled Faces, on music, contemporary artists further rollouts in the region, ex- in Paris and Milan. The interiors, by and celebrities, such as Carla Bruni- The Longchamp cept to specify there is “a small ex- Gilles & Boissier, feature a mix of Sarkozy and her early modeling days campaign for spring. pansion program” in place and she urban elements and alpine accents remembered by Stefano Gabbana; Life, hopes that Hong Kong shoppers and like Belgian blue stone floors, sleek on beauty, design, travel, home and Mainland Chinese tourists will make glass displays, carved wood walls and food, and History, on the landmarks of up Moncler’s customer demographic deerskin-upholstered chairs. Dolce & Gabbana’s style. But don’t reach here. “I’d like to groom a Chinese cus- Another distinct feature of the store for the dictionary: Swide is a made-up, tomer base; maybe we’ll expand to the is a lack of a “sale” sign. The economy “short, immediate word,” and “irrelevant Mainland,” she said. is hitting retailers hard here, but Ma to the language of fashion.” Also, Ma declined to give a sales forecast and Ruffini remain upbeat. “So far, we “Wide” is associated with “opening, for the store. haven’t been affected by this financial completeness and broad-mindedness; Ma and Ruffini defended the- de crisis. We did revise our projections, the presence of the “s” in front not only cision to open an outerwear store in but we revised them up — our sales adds nonsense to the meaning, but also snow-free Hong Kong, citing the in- have increased 30 percent this year,” gives the word a more incisive and edgy creasing breath of the Moncler col- Ruffini said. NuBo New to the Cosmeceutical Scene LONDON — A newborn beauty brand is taking on the aging renewal. “It’s like a recycling program,” said Santoro. process here. NuBo, which made its debut in Harrods “Sometimes the skin is overworked and produces so in November, is positioning itself as a “positive cosme- much waste that the effects of a lot of active antiaging ceutical.” For instance, it claims to offer cosmeceutical- creams plateau.” strength formulations without controversial chemical NuBo, which was founded by Marina Shcherbinina, ingredients, including parabens, petrochemicals and so- a former retail consultant, consists of Cell Dynamic dium lauryl sulfate. The Essence, a serum; Cell Dynamic Day Performance “We want to promise immediate effects with long- SPF 20, a daily moisturizer; Cell Dynamic Overnight lasting benefits, but when working on the formulations Recharge, a night cream, and Cell Dynamic Overnight we were not willing to accept ingredients such as para- bens,” said Ivana Santoro, NuBo’s marketing director, Prada’s adding the line’s core target is women aged 30 to 65. Amber scent. The collection boasts “Cell Dynamic” technology that BEAUTY BEAT is said to convert free radicals produced as a waste by- Recharge Totale, a night cream for mature and dry skin. product by skin cells into oxygen and so stimulate cell In addition, the line includes Intensive Treatments: Prada Touts Fragrance in Film Vitamin C 12 Percent Concentrate, Lifting Eye Serum, MILAN — Prada is promoting its women’s scent, Amber, The NuBo line. Hydrating Lipids Complex and Plumping Oxygen Boost, on the silver screen. as well as two daily cleansers. There’s also Voile, a balm The fragrance is captured in a graphic, animated purported to be a treatment-makeup hybrid. Prices short film, called “Fallen Shadows,” which doubles as range from 30 pounds, or $46.45 at current exchange, the fragrance’s new advertising campaign being shown for a 120-ml. pump bottle of cleansing mousse to 200 in 300 Italian cinemas. pounds, or $310, for a 30-ml. pump bottle of serum. Created by James Lima, Amber’s film advertise- The brand, which made its debut exclusively in ment will be screened before and after movies in des- Harrods here on Nov. 28, will likely generate retail ignated cinemas until Dec. 31. Meanwhile, a tie-in print sales of 200,000 pounds to 250,000 pounds, or $309,678 to advertising campaign based on images from “Fallen $387,098, in its first year, according to industry sources. Shadows” is running concurrently in Italian-, U.S.- and “We see NuBo as a key player in driving our skin care U.K.-based media. business forward in terms of innovation and technol- “We see Amber as a classic. It’s a signature piece of ogy,” said Marigay McKee, fashion and beauty director the Prada brand, and we’ve chosen to promote it in a at the department store. “The Harrods beauty customer nonconventional fragrance advertising campaign,” a is increasingly savvy — seeking the most efficacious and spokesman for the brand said. cutting-edge products that are available.” Miuccia Prada has already used film to advertise NuBo will be introduced in more U.K. doors, the U.S. Amber. At its launch in 2005, she enlisted Ridley Scott and France in late 2009, according to Santoro. to direct the short film, “Thunder Perfect Mind.” — Brid Costello — Stephanie Epiro WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2008 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services For career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 212.630.3963 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

ATTENTION ALL CEO’S AND OWNERS! REDUCE YOUR OVERHEAD Let us handle it all for you. We have Production & First Pattern Makers, Sample Makers & a domestic factory on our premisis. We do your patterns in NY under your supervision, then send overseas or keep domestic-depending on your needs. If an order fol- lows, we rebate the charges. We have over 35 yrs of garment exp in both men & ladies. Contact: Teddy Sadaka President and CEO 212-278-8362 ext.118 email: [email protected] website: www.apparelproductionny.com

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PATTERNMAKER, HEAD TO $90k. Salesperson And Junior Current exp in private label junior COMMERCIAL or women’s sportswear required. Graphic Designer Wanted Domestic plus import. Strong in QC. SALES: The candidate must have strong REAL ESTATE [email protected] 973-564-9236 knowledge in design, product develop- YOUR DESIGNER HANDBAGS MAY A/P, Chargeback, ment, and off-shore production. Indus- try contacts are a plus, the candidate SALES REP/MGR BE YOUR ONE INVESTMENT THAT Factor Specialist must also have a proven track record Prominent women’s special occasion • Follow-up and collection of factored Production Assistant of opening new accounts. brand seeking aggressive & organized HASN’T LOST VALUE and non-factored receivables Luxury apparel company seeks organ- GRAPHIC DESIGNER: Who is able to person for South-East. All resumes Your investments may have tanked, • Input Factor Approval ized and detail oriented Production flat sketches, graphics and prints. Strong handled with confidentiality. Email: but not your designer handbags. The • Factor Reconciliation Assistant with strong computer and PC, Illustrator& Photoshop skills reqd. [email protected] media is reporting that consumers are • Analysis of all Chargebacks communication skills. Bilingual in Ko- LCXYG is a high-end T-shirt Company Showroom /Office for Rent now turning to consignment shops for • Follow-up & Collection of All Invalid rean is highly preferred. Please email 389 Fifth Ave – 500 sf. / $1500 mon located in the Fashion District. We offer their hi-end designer fashions. Chargebacks or fax your resume and salary reqs: an attractive package with medical SALES KEY ACCOUNT EXEC $100-150K Slat walled w/shelves & desks DoubleTake is one of the nation’s best • Submit Daily, Monthly, and Yearly 646-304-5674 or [email protected] BOE + comm. Current exp in beauty Call Peter: 212-683-1900 benefits. Please e-mail your resume and has a huge demand for designer Sales/Collection Reports with your current salary and your de- products such as lip balm, shampoo, handbags and furs. We now have a Showroom for Sublease PRODUCTION COORD TO $52k. sired salary to: [email protected] nail products, etc. Must have exper long waiting list for bags such as Jim- Must have minimum of 5 years factor AmericasMart, Atlanta Min 3yrs exp in co that did production and relationships with drugstores + my Choo, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, experience. To apply, please contact: stores like Claire’s, etc. Company has 1000 sqft. Premier Local, Over Atrium. [email protected] for Target, Kmart or Walmart required. Chanel, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and Midtown growing co. estab accounts. Wants strong personality Ideal Evening/Prom Call Marci or Liz at 973- 212.398.1090 emily many others. [email protected] 973-564-9236 to increase volume. Must compete 564-6464 to earn some extra cash! ASSOCIATE DESIGNER with companies such as ChapStick Womens Apparel Company is seeking TD BETTER SPORTSWEAR $$$$$$ Carmex, Blistex or Dove, Calgon, an Associate Designer to help develop PRODUCTION COSTER $50-75K. Exp Fructis or Bonne Bell, etc. wovens and knitwear. Must have the in costing intimate apparel, bras. Manage China/Chen Zhen [email protected] 973-564-9236 ability to produce a complete technical data from plants, design, product devel Relocate. Mandarin/Cantonese. design package. Minimum 4-6 years to create cost sheets. Exp in negotiating [email protected] or 212-947-3400 design experience. Extensive working price quotes from plants, analyze gar- knowledge of Adobe Photoshop & Illus- ment cost breakdown sheets between SR. ACCOUNT EXEC EXCESS INVENTORY BUYER Niche leader in the teen & tween li- Immediate Cash/No Inventory Too Large trator required. Pay commensurate pre-cost & other plants. Northern NJ Co. TECHNICAL DESIGNER with experience. Email resumes to: [email protected] 973-564-9236 Intimate apparel company seeks a Tech censed market seeks strong seller with No Hassle/Integrity Driven/Closeouts Needed proven track record in the bath & body, 901-338-6364 www.fusioninternational.net [email protected] Designer. Min 2yrs exp reqd. Intimates exp a plus. [email protected] cosmetics, lip care categories. Must [email protected] Production Manager To 100K. Current have min 5 - 10 yrs exp with account CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER $200-250k. exp in Junior sportswear in developing Current exp in garment or accessory co. relationships in mid tier, specialty, production in Mexico 807 reqd. Mdtn co. Vivienne Tam drugstore chains & mass retailers. that does min $100 mil vol in sales reqd. [email protected] 973-564-9236 Must have ability to be COO. Midtown. Sales Manager Must be self motivated & organized. [email protected] 973-564-9236 Int’l designer seeks Sales Mgr. w/min 5 Must be able to maintain, grow existing REPLENISHMENT COORD $60 - $65K yrs. exp. Must have est’d relationships business, as well as able to open new Current exp doing replenishment for w/key retailers. Int’l exp. a+. Send re- business. Must have strong communica- Designer - Handbag Kohl’s required. Children’s wear co. sume w/c letter to: tion skills & be a team player. Pls fax / Showrooms & Lofts Min 3-5 yrs of handbag design exp exp helpful, not nec. Midtown co. [email protected] email resume/sal reqs to: Attn HR212 Patterns/Samples/Production in a trend driven environment. Hand [email protected] 973-564-9236 [email protected] or fax 212-944-8409 BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening Great ’New’ Office Space Avail sketching and computer skills a must. Gowns custom made & wholesale. Pls only handbag designers respond. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 REPLENISHMENT COORD $70-90K. WINTER Salary + benefits + incentives. Great Strong exp in Walmart retail link. environment. E-mail resume to: Monitor/adjust/create replenishment ACCESSORIES PATTERNS, SAMPLES, [email protected] and forecast system settings using DIVISION HEAD Men’s/Women’s Apparel Sales CPFR or exp in Inforem. Midtown. Strong NY accessory co. seeks DH for PRODUCTIONS [email protected] 973-564-9236 All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Well financed men’s & women’s im- cold weather. Individual must have 3 yrs Call Sherry 212-719-0622. porter, in business 18 yrs, looking for in this industry. Must either have sales, salaried/Comm. salesperson w/ strong SALES COORDINATOR $60 - $70k. merchandising or production exp. The contacts to major retailers, or have or- Strong current exp in assisting sales right individual will oversee division PATTERNS, SAMPLES, ders in hand & looking for well financed dept with all back office/detail orient- from Asia to NY & report to principles. PRODUCTIONS co. to produce. Contact: 212-764-1777 ed functions. Better children’s wear co. Compensation includes salary + profit Full service shop to the trade. [email protected] experience necessary. Supervise 3. sharing. Fwd cover letter & resume : Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. ricky @ cactusclothing.com [email protected] 973-564-9236 [email protected] Here today. Here tomorrow.

In times like these, it’s perhaps wise to reflect on the things that last rather than the things that come and go.

A diamond has always been a symbol of resilience as well as beauty. It has outlasted all that history can throw at it, from the formation of continents to the turmoil of markets. Across the generations, in a thousand years’ time, a diamond will still be here. Just like love.

the De Beers Family of Companies