2501 Mem Nov 13, 2006 05:10 PM Quote: Originally

#2501 mem Nov 13, 2006 05:10 PM

#2502 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 13, 2006 05:30 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bhbuster I don't think anyone in this thread is currently flying a brushless setup in their fp at the moment. There have been some to do it and most return to the stock motor. I am also thinking there are a few who are currently working on brushless setups as I type this. Certainly not needed for lipos. Brian I am sure there are some who have gone the route of brushless and esc In there fp. But there seems to be something wrong here when you take a $41 airframe and put $100. in electronics into it. We all love our little fp and fly them when we get a chance. If you do the water breakin and advance the timing on the stock motor use a lipo 7.4 800mah and put fuses in and a head stiffiner that you can make yourself you come out with a good flying Honey Bee FP that won't break down and just keeps flying. You may need to change a main motor or tail motor once in a while but both of these are less than $7 each at bp hobbies. If you are going to go brushless at least use a CP2 airframe then you can go 3d when you are good enough and need the power.

#2503 dave49749 Nov 13, 2006 06:10 PM

I got it! I got it! I got it! I can’t wait to head home and begin the process of getting her ready to fly. I have put this off for some time now, but its really impressive once you get a look at this heli. Does any one have steps to assembly of the bare bones FP? It looks pretty straightforward but helis are new to me so any help is appreciated. I have the 3 in 1 a 6 ch RX, two Futaba s3110s, CSRC 10C 800 lipos Thanks Dave

#2504 JustPlaneChris Nov 13, 2006 06:34 PM

Dave, the assembly and setup is pretty easy! The two servos install on the frame (several pictures are in this thread, showing the servo orientation). The tail motor lead plugs into the top plug on the 3-in-1, and the main motor the bottom plug. The servo that tilts the swashplate side-to-side goes to the aileron channel, and the other one is elevator. On the 3-in-1, the top servo wire goes to throttle, the bottom to rudder. That's about it! You don't even need a heli program, unless you want to play with throttle curve (I haven't bothered). Good luck! Let us know how it goes. :) -Chris

#2505 jgoodwin Nov 13, 2006 08:25 PM

Thanks guys. That is what I thought. I think I would invest in another chopper (maybe a Mini-Zoom Pro) before I built this one up anymore (except for lipos). I can not wait for the next fly-in. Maybe I will actaully get to fly! , Jay

#2506 Rare Bear Nov 13, 2006 08:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Dave, the assembly and setup is pretty easy! The two servos install on the frame (several pictures are in this thread, showing the servo orientation). The tail motor lead plugs into the top plug on the 3-in-1, and the main motor the bottom plug. The servo that tilts the swashplate side-to-side goes to the aileron channel, and the other one is elevator. On the 3-in-1, the top servo wire goes to throttle, the bottom to rudder. That's about it! You don't even need a heli program, unless you want to play with throttle curve (I haven't bothered). Good luck! Let us know how it goes. :) -Chris

Hey, Chris - mind if I pick your brain a bit? I was just thinking of a hopped up FP heli - maybe a little project down the road considering how fun this heli is. :) What would you think about (2) aftermarket servos, an Esky Rx, a brushless motor, an Esky gyro, and a twin tail motor setup? I figure w/ a barebones setup, it wouldn't be too hard or expensive to do this, and I imagine the way the heli would perform would be quite stellar. :D The only thing I'm unsure of is programming my 7CHP w/ such a setup, and what brushless motor to run - any ideas? I would be looking for a low cost brushless setup to keep the costs down, although I don't like the CDROM motors - seem like the wouldn't have much power, and they're ugly, too. :) Lastly, are there any CNC mods for this bird? The swashplate looks paper thin, so I was wondering if anyone is making a CNC swash that would mate up w/ the Honeybee FP. God bless - "Rare"

#2507 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 13, 2006 08:55 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by dave49749 I got it! I got it! I got it! I can’t wait to head home and begin the process of getting her ready to fly. I have put this off for some time now, but its really impressive once you get a look at this heli. Does any one have steps to assembly of the bare bones FP? It looks pretty straightforward but helis are new to me so any help is appreciated. I have the 3 in 1 a 6 ch RX, two Futaba s3110s, CSRC 10C 800 lipos Thanks Dave Dave do everything that Chris said and also check that everything is tight. Set your gear backlash with a piece of paper so the motors run real smooth. When you install your servos make sure every trim is centered and your servo arms are at 90 degrees and your swash plate is level. Thats the basic setup after that it is time to put togeather a stiffiner for the rotor head and do the fuse mod to protect your esc. Get her done and let us know how she flys. Best of luck with the build.

#2508 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 13, 2006 09:08 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear Hey, Chris - mind if I pick your brain a bit? I was just thinking of a hopped up FP heli - maybe a little project down the road considering how fun this heli is. :) What would you think about (2) aftermarket servos, an Esky Rx, a brushless motor, an Esky gyro, and a twin tail motor setup? I figure w/ a barebones setup, it wouldn't be too hard or expensive to do this, and I imagine the way the heli would perform would be quite stellar. :D The only thing I'm unsure of is programming my 7CHP w/ such a setup, and what brushless motor to run - any ideas? I would be looking for a low cost brushless setup to keep the costs down, although I don't like the CDROM motors - seem like the wouldn't have much power, and they're ugly, too. :) Lastly, are there any CNC mods for this bird? The swashplate looks paper thin, so I was wondering if anyone is making a CNC swash that would mate up w/ the Honeybee FP. God bless - "Rare"

Rare go back to post 2502 that says it all the honey bee fp is weight sensitive and doesn't like any added weight. Other than using different blades [ there are only a few available] your shooting your self in the foot going brushless with a fp save your money and go with a cp2 for that act. Just my opinion its hard to improve on the fp its so good to begin with.

#2509 Discusman Nov 13, 2006 09:16 PM

Just get a CP heli if you want something more responsive n speed. No need to upgrade the FP2 since it is a fun to fly heli already.

#2510 Rare Bear Nov 13, 2006 09:19 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mrmuffinmanvw Rare go back to post 2502 that says it all the honey bee fp is weight sensitive and doesn't like any added weight. Other than using different blades [ there are only a few available] your shooting your self in the foot going brushless with a fp save your money and go with a cp2 for that act. Just my opinion its hard to improve on the fp its so good to begin with.

Thanks - just a bit of a fantasy! :) I like to improve upon things, and i figured this would be cool, but I'll take your advice & stick w/ stock! I have several CP heli's as it is, so I don't need more power - just sounded fun. :D God bless - "Rare"

#2511 Rare Bear Nov 13, 2006 09:28 PM

1 Attachment(s) Hey, guys; does anyone know where I can find this Honeybee FP w/ the yellow canopy & tail? I know it's pure aesthetics & nothing else, but I love the way it looks, and I'm trying to track one down. I've PM'd Steve @ helidirect in hopes of him carrying the FP's again, but I haven't heard from him of late. If anyone has any idea of where I can find this yellow bird, let me know! God bless - "Rare"

#2512 Discusman Nov 13, 2006 09:33 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear Hey, guys; does anyone know where I can find this Honeybee FP w/ the yellow canopy & tail? I know it's pure aesthetics & nothing else, but I love the way it looks, and I'm trying to track one down. I've PM'd Steve @ helidirect in hopes of him carrying the FP's again, but I haven't heard from him of late. If anyone has any idea of where I can find this yellow bird, let me know! God bless - "Rare"

Maybe u can paint it yourself?

#2513 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 13, 2006 09:34 PM

#2514 JustPlaneChris Nov 13, 2006 09:35 PM

Hey Rare, welcome to the madness of this thread. :D I've never seen a yellow canopy, unless it is the absolute newest version (I see they call it "Hobby Bee" now). I always just peel the stickers and paint my canopy anyway. :) By all means, RESIST the temptation to do any modification that adds weight. The lighter you keep these little guys, the better they fly and the less damage they do to themselves on impact. Here is a list of mods that I've done (that I'd do again):

• head stiffener + through-bolts • 2S 800 Lipo • water break-in + timing advance on the stock motor • whip antenna • My own transmitter/receiver (JR in my case)

Short list, eh? :) There is nothing else needed for this heli to perform it's mission: Low-Stress, relaxing "yard bombing". -Chris PS: To those guys suggesting he buy a CP2 or similar, Rare is a fellow (former?) King owner, and also has an E-Sky Belt CP and I think a Swift, right Rare? He's like me though, and wants to have a "no brainer" heli he can relax with. :)

#2515 Rare Bear Nov 13, 2006 09:44 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Hey Rare, welcome to the madness of this thread. :D I've never seen a yellow canopy, unless it is the absolute newest version (I see they call it "Hobby Bee" now). I always just peel the stickers and paint my canopy anyway. :) By all means, RESIST the temptation to do any modification that adds weight. The lighter you keep these little guys, the better they fly and the less damage they do to themselves on impact. Here is a list of mods that I've done (that I'd do again):

• head stiffener + through-bolts • 2S 800 Lipo • water break-in + timing advance on the stock motor • whip antenna • My own transmitter/receiver (JR in my case)

Short list, eh? :) There is nothing else needed for this heli to perform it's mission: Low-Stress, relaxing "yard bombing". -Chris

Hey, Chris - great hearing from you again. :) Thanks for the advice, too - I'll be sure to resist any mods, other than the ones you mentioned. :D Yeah, that's the latest "Hobby Bee" on Esky's website - just like the way it looks. :) Nothing else has changed, though - just the color of the canopy & tail. Adavnce timing? Can you explanin that for me? I've heard of that via the ESC w/ brushless setups, but that's it. As for the water break in method, what can I gain w/ this, other than motor longevity? As for everything else, I'll probably just pick up a head stiffener at some point, and maybe some of those GWS blades - BP Hobbies has some available, although they are the older versions - does that matter? About those through bolts - where can I find them? BP carry them? God bless - "Rare"

#2516 JustPlaneChris Nov 13, 2006 09:56 PM

Rare, the water break-in seats the brushes very quickly, and allow better power without arcing. Essentially you just hook the motor up to a couple of D-cell batteries, dunk it in a glass of distilled water and let it run for about 5 minutes! :eek: Take it out, blow it out, put a drop of 3in1 oil on the bushings and it's ready to use. The timing advance is easy: Just take a pair of sharp pointed pliers (or snap ring pliers) and insert them into the holes in the end-bell and twist it clockwise about 5mm. This has proven to boost power, reduce operating temps, and overall make for a happy motor. I've done it on my CP2 and FP2 with great results! The through-bolts I used are just 4-40 cap screws and locknuts from the LHS. It does require drilling out the existing head piece (but not the blades). There are some pics of mine here: http://www.justplanechris.com/honeybee I just recently switched to the GWS gray blades. Honestly, I couldn't tell much difference in flight compared to the stockers with my head mods. I'd just squirt some white paint on the stock blades and fly 'em. :) -Chris

#2517 Jeremy Z Nov 13, 2006 10:01 PM

"through bolts" is not a parts-specific mod. It just means that instead of the stock screws threading into the plastic of the head, they thread into nuts on the top side of the head. So whatever nuts & bolts you can find that are the right size will work. Without the through bolts, you can't put a head stiffener on the top of the head, only the bottom. The bottom stiffener is probably enough, since this heli won't fly inverted. (not for long, at least ;) ) I doubled up the bottom stiffener at one point; it didn't seem to make much of a difference. I'm starting to question the acquisition of this heli now. It doesn't fly well in any wind, and it is too big for any kind of in-house indoor flight. It seems like its only good home is in a large indoor venue, or a windless outdoor venue.

#2518 ktm520 Nov 13, 2006 10:08 PM

Rare, save your money on the GWS grey blades unless you need replacements. their performance is marginally better than stock. don't foget the fuse mod.

#2519 Rare Bear Nov 13, 2006 10:16 PM

Thanks, guys - I think I'm just going to go straight stock, other than a head stiffener at some point. I have a set of BCP skids w/ a forward mount battery tray, and I have (2) BCX 800mah 2S liPo's that should work very well till I pick up some MP 850mah 15C LiPo's. I figure w/ this light weigh setup, this bird should fly very well! I just may have to hit the order button tonight or tomorrow, because I don't think I can wait till Christmas. :D Maybe a GY401 from my girlfriend??? :) God bless - "Rare"

#2520 Rare Bear Nov 13, 2006 10:44 PM

I couldn't wait!! Honeybee FP2 is on the way!! :D:):D Can't wait to get this bird flying!! God bless - "Rare"

#2521 JustPlaneChris Nov 13, 2006 10:49 PM

LOL! You'll love it, Rare. Did you get a 'barebones', or the full RTF package? -Chris

#2522 ktm520 Nov 13, 2006 10:54 PM right . . . i wish my girlfriend would buy me a gy401. Rare Bear, how many helis do you have???? i've been following the belt-cp thread as i was going to buy one before i found a good deal on a used T-rex. i'm slowly piling up a collection. currently flyable, i have a lama, rotofly, fp2, and t-rex se. i hope i stop at the t-rex . . . . fyi by the way, if any of you fp2 flyers are contemplating upgrading to a cp2 or 450 sized heli, don't have any hesitations about the 450 being to twitchy or powerful. i just got my t-rex se setup over the weekend and did my first flights. i set it up for a beginner and i was very suprised by how easy it was to fly. i had no pervious experience with a cp heli. i learned on the fp2 and jumped right up to the T-rex. with flybars and reduced cyclic, the cyclic was less responsive than my fp2 without flybar weights. with reduced throttle and pitch curves, it is very easy to maintain hover. i hovered through the first pack and was doing figure 8's on the 2nd battery. the "pucker" factor increase, but i was more afraid of crashing than the power of the rex. thanks finless bob.

#2523 Rare Bear Nov 13, 2006 10:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris LOL! You'll love it, Rare. Did you get a 'barebones', or the full RTF package? -Chris

Had to have it, Chris!! I've been thinking about it non-stop since I flew my friends!! :D No, I got the RTF - easier for me. My 7CHP is awesome, but my hands adapt to the uncluttered Tx w/ the stock HB setup, so that's why I went for it. I bought some extra parts as well for the crashes that always seem to happen, but w/ the abuse my friend's HB took, I think I'm going to be okay for a while! Can't wait to fly this bird, though; even on nice days, I'm apprehensive about flying my belt CP, because it needs a lot of airspace, and I'm scared to death of crashing it. With this Honeybee, I can fly and just have fun - something I haven't had since my Blade CP!! These bigger, more powerful heli's are awesome, but there's something so nice when you can fly w/out any worries - just having fun. :) Thanks for the help, Chris - this thread will be yet another new home for me!! :D God bless - "Rare"

#2524 JustPlaneChris Nov 13, 2006 11:01 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear Thanks for the help, Chris - this thread will be yet another new home for me!! :D My pleasure, sir! I have over 400 posts in this thread, so it's my favorite hangout too. :) Check your email when you get a chance too. I sent you an email about the head stiffener. -Chris

#2525 Rare Bear Nov 13, 2006 11:03 PM

[QUOTE=ktm520]right . . . i wish my girlfriend would buy me a gy401. Rare Bear, how many helis do you have????QUOTE] KTM - I'm working on 7!! Here's the kicker; when I bought my BCX, which was my first heli, I said that would be the only one!! Yeah, right! As for my heli's, I have a flying Belt CP as of now, a barebones Belt CP awaiting electronics installation, a wounded BCP waiting for a heli mechanic, a Swift 16 that I'm currently building w/ help, a wounded BCX in need of a 4 in 1, an Esky E-Smart under the tree, and a Honeybee FP on the way! Life hasn't been easy for me, but these heli's make me smile, so I figure, "what the heck? lets go for broke!" :) God bless - "Rare"

#2526 Rare Bear Nov 13, 2006 11:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris My pleasure, sir! I have over 400 posts in this thread, so it's my favorite hangout too. :) Check your email when you get a chance too. I sent you an email about the head stiffener. -Chris

Thanks so much, Chris - you've always been a great guy w/ lots & lots of answers! :) As for this heli, I think it's going to be one of my absolute favorites :) God bless - "Rare"

#2527 cpt.bhern Nov 13, 2006 11:15 PM

I Did It!!!!!

I finally got my FP to hover today....I mean I can now hover anytime I want to fly. I have never flown before,and only had my fp for about 3 or 4 weeks. I have Realflight G3 and practiced with the Impala heli and got that down pretty good. I have been fighting my heli,trying to trim,balance,adjust,and replace broken parts...... then all of a sudden today....it all worked perfectly!!!!!! I am on cloud nine right now!!! :) You guys have ALL been very helpful here and I must say thank you because I feel you all helped me in some way!!! I am flying stock motor,batteries AND the Super skids. I have another FP in completely stock form,so once I get good with my first, I will work to get the other one in the air.

#2528 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 13, 2006 11:53 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear I couldn't wait!! Honeybee FP2 is on the way!! :D:):D Can't wait to get this bird flying!! God bless - "Rare" Welcome to the thread you will find that the FP will become one of your favorite helis to fly. Just one smile after another. Its a no brainer and stress free fun. Almost everyone that has one on this thread have other helis but still love to fly there old friend the FP. Chris hows the project coming it looks great in the pictures and appears to be high quality.

#2529 JustPlaneChris Nov 14, 2006 12:57 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by cpt.bhern I have been fighting my heli,trying to trim,balance,adjust,and replace broken parts...... then all of a sudden today....it all worked perfectly!!!!!! I am on cloud nine right now!!! :) Congrats! It's a great feeling when it all just clicks and you realize you can actually fly it. :cool: -Chris

#2530 ritzheli Nov 14, 2006 12:57 AM

Honey Bee/Our Favorite Heli

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear Thanks so much, Chris - you've always been a great guy w/ lots & lots of answers! :) As for this heli, I think it's going to be one of my absolute favorites :) God bless - "Rare"

Hello Rare Bear, Good to see you in these posts, you will not regret buying and flying your HBFPII, it'll take a lot of abuse. :p I learned to fly with one and now they're multiplying in my hobby room, one box stock, a second with mods, and enough parts to build a third! (maybe brushless) :rolleyes: After wrecking your nerves flying your BeltCP, you can relax and do all sorts of fun flying with these helicopters. Yes, my Belt is almost ready. :) Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying

#2531 Rare Bear Nov 14, 2006 05:12 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by ritzheli Hello Rare Bear, Good to see you in these posts, you will not regret buying and flying your HBFPII, it'll take a lot of abuse. :p I learned to fly with one and now they're multiplying in my hobby room, one box stock, a second with mods, and enough parts to build a third! (maybe brushless) :rolleyes: After wrecking your nerves flying your BeltCP, you can relax and do all sorts of fun flying with these helicopters. Yes, my Belt is almost ready. :) Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying

Thanks, Stephen - I'm looking forward to some relaxing heli time, although I really wish I would have ordered this heli a month ago - missed many gorgeous fall days w/out a whisper of wind. But, I know there will still be a few days that will be nice enough, so I'll just take advantage of them when I can. :) I just got done flying my friends Honeybee FP, and I'm hoping mine will have much more power, because at full throttle, it would ascend, but it really took its time. Even more, his LiPo's were giving out after a few minutes, which would result in descents at full throttle - just no power. Then again, he has Super Skids, a TP 1900 2S Lipo, lots of velcro, and (4) flybar weights to affix the battery tray - probably doesn't help too much. :) My HB FP will be stock w/ 800mah 2S LiPo's that weigh in at 43g each, which should be light enough for it to perform. I figure I'll be a cool 70g lighter than my friend's HB, so I'm hoping that will be the difference, because his HB was very sluggish, requiring near full power throughout the entire flight. Can't wait for my heli!! Now, I just have to wait for the blasted mail man!!! :D God bless - "Rare" PS: Good to hear about your Belt CP, Stephen!! Keep me up to date & let me know how she flies!! I'm still waiting to build my 2nd Belt - hopefully next week, because my Swift is in charge this week. :)

#2532 mem Nov 14, 2006 05:49 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear My HB FP will be stock w/ 800mah 2S LiPo's that weigh in at 43g each, which should be light enough for it to perform. I figure I'll be a cool 70g lighter than my friend's HB, so I'm hoping that will be the difference, because his HB was very sluggish, requiring near full power throughout the entire flight. Rare, Shaving 70 grams off the weight will make a world of difference in performance and duration. And if you have a good sized room (and an accommodating family) you can fly indoors :) .

#2533 Rare Bear Nov 14, 2006 07:58 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Rare, Shaving 70 grams off the weight will make a world of difference in performance and duration. And if you have a good sized room (and an accommodating family) you can fly indoors :) .

Good to hear, Mem - I knew that weight difference would make a difference, but I was still a bit worried about the power/longevity, because my friend's HB just struggled to fly, and the packs went out quick. As for my soon to come HB, the only thing I'll be doing is upgrading the battery tray to a CP tray, which will allow me to adjust the CG, and the batteries I'll be running will be BCX 800mah's that top out at a svelt 43g. :) Hopefully my bird will perform! Yes, my family is very understanding with my heli-hobby, and indoor flight is actually enjoyed! :D Thank goodness, because the weather is starting to turn, and I need some hovering time!!! God bless - "Rare"

#2534 dave49749 Nov 14, 2006 02:21 PM

Hello all, The Futaba S3110 servos are too small, the mounting holes don’t line up. Do HS-55’s fit the mounting holes? Thanks

#2535 TheWolfen Nov 14, 2006 04:19 PM

As Chris will tell you, they come very close. You'll just have to use a tiny round file to elongate one of the holes a bit. I just installed mine and had to do that with the bottom hole only. Otherwise they fit great! David

#2536 dave49749 Nov 14, 2006 04:34 PM

Thanks Can you use a single screw to hold the servos in? I can get them to fit a single screw but I wonder if it’s a positive enough mounting for this bird. The S3100s are lighter and have more torque than the HS-55’s

#2537 ktm520 Nov 14, 2006 05:03 PM

Rare, that 1900 battery your buddy is using is WAY to heavy for the fp2. i have some 1200's (63g) and it flyies just as well as with the lighter 800's. however, i upgraded to a brushless main. checkout my setup http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=1694. 65$ will get you an ARC bl motor and CC10 combo from lightflightrc.com. most guys preach to leave em stock, i on the other hand prefer the extra performance of the bl motor when flying outdoors in FFF. servos - i'm using eflite S75, which i think have the same cases as the HS55. i just barely had to elongate the holes to them to mount. its been awhile since i've looked at the fp2, but if you can get some hot glue between the servo and the frame, one screw would hold just fine.

#2538 dave49749 Nov 14, 2006 05:17 PM

Excellent! I am not so much against buying I want to get her ready to fly. Thanks

#2539 Discusman Nov 14, 2006 07:21 PM

I bought couple set of GWS blades for my FP2 and they are meant for FF. But not for hover. The blades wouldn't create enough lift, so the motor had to use extra amp to lift the heli. So it's a NOT GOOD for hover. I haven't tried the M24 blades yet. but it seems they are meant for FF too.

#2540 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 14, 2006 08:33 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Discusman I bought couple set of GWS blades for my FP2 and they are meant for FF. But not for hover. The blades wouldn't create enough lift, so the motor had to use extra amp to lift the heli. So it's a NOT GOOD for hover. I haven't tried the M24 blades yet. but it seems they are meant for FF too. Gws has few different blades for fixed pitch which ones did you try the black or the gray I tried the gray and didn't think they were that much better so I painted the stock ones white ala Chris and put them back on. I tried the carbon fiber tail rotor for the blade cp and it works well I got it at a close out price at my LHS seems that they are getting rid of the E-Flite line to bad they were good in a pinch as most parts fit my Honey Bees.

#2541 bod001 Nov 14, 2006 08:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mrmuffinmanvw I tried the carbon fiber tail rotor for the blade cp and it works well I got it at a close out price at my LHS seems that they are getting rid of the E-Flite line to bad they were good in a pinch as most parts fit my Honey Bees.

How much better do you think the carbon tail blade is and what does it weigh? I have also seen it going cheap and was thinking of picking one up to. As for the previous post i think the M24 blades are a big improvement in hover and FFF.

#2542 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 14, 2006 09:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bod001 How much better do you think the carbon tail blade is and what does it weigh? I have also seen it going cheap and was thinking of picking one up to. As for the previous post i think the M24 blades are a big improvement in hover and FFF. I don't have a scale right now my kid lent it out but the carbon fiber rotor is about 2 grams lighter and has a better profile than the stock plastic rotor and it balanced right out of the package for $5 why not. I think that the hobby shops have some falling sales on the over priced E-Flite line. The carbon fiber rotor works great on my cp2 with duel motors it will get the tail around quick.

#2543 Rare Bear Nov 14, 2006 09:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by ktm520 Rare, that 1900 battery your buddy is using is WAY to heavy for the fp2. i have some 1200's (63g) and it flyies just as well as with the lighter 800's. however, i upgraded to a brushless main. checkout my setup http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=1694. 65$ will get you an ARC bl motor and CC10 combo from lightflightrc.com. most guys preach to leave em stock, i on the other hand prefer the extra performance of the bl motor when flying outdoors in FFF.

KTM - yeah, my buddy's FP is way overweight - about 90g heavier than what my bird will weigh. :eek: So, I have a feeling that power won't be an issue, and I imagine I'll get some decent flight time, too. :o Brushless main, huh? That sounds cool. But, I think I'm going to opt for Ritz's line of thinking - "keep it simple, stupid." :) When I modify things, they tend to not work as well, so I'll just fly the rotors off my little FP, and if I ever need more power, I'll check out that brushless mod, which sounds quite hot. God bless - "Rare"

#2544 jgoodwin Nov 14, 2006 11:31 PM

Not that anybody was keeping track of my Receiver problems, but here is an update anyway. It was not the reciever. Well not really. The receiver was not bad. The problem was the E-Sky servos. If I plugged them into my Hitec reciever and powered it on, they would spin (I was sure something broke the first time it happened!). It took me a new reciever to figure out it was not the receiver. I figured then it must be the crystal and would have bought one tonight had the Local Heli Shop been open. Well, it was not. So I thought and read and found that some receivers power up the servos before giving them signal. I tried my Futuba 3110s and then worked great. The E-Sky servos also work fine on the E-Sky RX. Now I need some new servos for my glider.... Oh yeah, anybody want to buy 4 E-Sky servos? Barely used. -Jay

#2545 bod001 Nov 15, 2006 12:04 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jgoodwin Not that anybody was keeping track of my Receiver problems, but here is an update anyway. It was not the reciever. Well not really. The receiver was not bad. The problem was the E-Sky servos. If I plugged them into my Hitec reciever and powered it on, they would spin (I was sure something broke the first time it happened!). It took me a new reciever to figure out it was not the receiver. I figured then it must be the crystal and would have bought one tonight had the Local Heli Shop been open. Well, it was not. So I thought and read and found that some receivers power up the servos before giving them signal. I tried my Futuba 3110s and then worked great. The E-Sky servos also work fine on the E-Sky RX. Now I need some new servos for my glider.... Oh yeah, anybody want to buy 4 E-Sky servos? Barely used. -Jay

I was. :)

#2546 jsy nobby Nov 15, 2006 01:32 AM

How much do want for the servos J? take into account that you'd have to post them to jersey,,, regards,Andy.

#2547 Gino CP Nov 15, 2006 01:59 AM

Dave I'd use the proper amount of screws on those servos. One screw may do the job but it is not enough on impacts. Inertia would rip the servos of that single mounting point. Believe all of us when we say, you will crash sooner or later.

#2548 jsy nobby Nov 15, 2006 02:03 AM slightly modified FP honeybee

6 Attachment(s) Lo all, I've been tinkering a bit and came up with a little mod that seems to have helped no end....copter was getting nasty hits from the surrounding granite that our flat is made of...so I moved the 4-in -1 away from the motor and have attached pix,if you fancy getting your copter's centre of gravity closer to it's skids, have a look! I had to turn down the gain on the gyro to balance out the repositioning of the unit but it seems to work just fine.....I used a dremel with a 2.5 mm drill bit to make the holes for the cable tie to go through and it's easily done with the 4-in-1 unassembled. Bear in mind that this is plumbed into a stock airframe with the CP2 landing gear upgrade,water broken and timed stock motor, stock radio gear,3 cell 11.1v 1200mah 10c lipos and is probably a bit heavier than it is when it comes out of the box.....if I could get these blasted vidz to upload I'd show you just how well it flies....have a look at the pix and see what you think...i'm sure someone'll say"why'd you do that?" why not say I.... regards, Andy. P.S. ally copter starting to look like it might just fly soon....

#2549 terencechan Nov 15, 2006 02:18 AM

Choices, choices, choices..

Quote: Originally Posted by CarbonPanda Thanks for the tips. Damn, I'm still grounded. Don't know what's wrong with the heli. When I push up the throttle slowly the tail motor will suddenly spin very fast. Don't know if it is due to battery level or radio interference. After browsing thru your site, I'm kinda confused by the mod. Should I get the Lipo first? Then 7.4V or 11.1V. Or should I go for brushless or twin tail motor? Not to mention the ESC, gyro...etc... :confused: By the way, where did you get those blade fuse? Give me some pointers please. Will you? :D Max

Hi Max, There are 2 ways to go. 1) Stay with using brushed motors, replace the main stock motor with GWS em350 with 10T. Get a 7.4v lipo at 1320amp 20C(ThunderPower recommended). Get your GWS tail ESC, twin tail motors setup and Futaba HHgyro. End results: you will have a moderately powered heli, good enough to handle some breeze with plenty of tail authority and flight time up to 20mins. :) 2) Go for the brushless motor. 3600kv with 12 T recommended together with Phoenix 10 ESC. Get a 11.1v lipo at 1320amp 20C(ThunderPower recommended). Get your GWS tail ESC and Futaba HH gyro. You will still want to go for twin stock motors for the tail because the brushless tail will be a lot heavier plus you need 3 wires running (can't go thru the inside of the tail boom) to it from a brushless tail ESC which you have to get. Moreover, a brushless tail motor will drain about 5amp of current so your flight time will be reduced significantly and you will have problem balancing the heli because of a heavier tail. End results: You will get a slightly quieter heli with lots of power (a brushless main motor can take the toll even when you pump full throttle unlike a brushed one). Flight time is only up to 15mins though. :) I will recommend that you go for the HHgyro mod first. You can stay with the stock main motor but you need to upgrade the tail motor to twin tail motors otherwise it won't be able to cope with the HHgyro. For the Lipo, you can continue to use the stock until you've made up your mind whether you wanna to go for choice 1) or choice 2). Only then, you can decide to buy either the 7.4v or 11.1v Lipo. :cool: The blade fuse are easily available in hardware shops selling resistors and stuff like that. You can also get it from automotive shops selling motor bikes. The bikes uses these fuses. ;) It seems that your current problem is due to the mixer not set properly. There should be a pot which you can turn with a flat screw driver. Try playing around with it to get the tail rotor speed to match the main rotor's. If you can't solve it, just go for the HHgyro mod and you will solve this problem once and for all. :) Terence

#2550 dave49749 Nov 15, 2006 04:34 AM

Thanks all but I just bought the HS-55'S.

#2551 mem Nov 15, 2006 07:25 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by terencechan Go for the brushless motor. 3600kv with 12 T recommended together with Phoenix 10 ESC. Get a 11.1v lipo at 1320amp 20C(ThunderPower recommended). Get your GWS tail ESC and Futaba HH gyro. You will still want to go for twin stock motors for the tail Terence, Did you intend to post this here? I am not sure that an FP with all that wonderful stuff on board would get off the ground.

#2552 Gino CP Nov 15, 2006 08:34 AM

The FP is so light handling and so throttle sensitive that I can't imagine it handling even more power. The dual tail motor on 7.4v is interesting. I never thought I can go dual with my 7.4v. Has anyone actually done this? But balancing would be difficult. My batt is way up front now.

#2553 terencechan Nov 15, 2006 10:21 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Terence, Did you intend to post this here? I am not sure that an FP with all that wonderful stuff on board would get off the ground.

It may not fly better than stock, but it definitely handles the wind better. ;) A mean outdoor machine is the ultimate aim for all this mods. Terence

#2554 Xptical Nov 15, 2006 10:38 AM

I'm looking for some ideas. The top hoop thingy has a couple of balls on it. The balls broke off due to rapid encounter with immovable object. I have one of the balls; the other is on walkabout. Post some ideas on how to get back up and moving.

#2555 Gino CP Nov 15, 2006 02:01 PM

#2556 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 15, 2006 02:23 PM

Dual tail works great on 7.4v. Hot glued a second motor on my tail, soldered, and went flying. Torque was good. The biggest improvement I saw. Turns are quicker, tail was solid on climbouts. Motors were cool. As in not even warm. Remember, I had just hot glued the motor. I will be flying this as is for a while. I just tried a 7.4 1250mah pack in my cp2 it also has dual tail motors and it was a pig 3/4 stick to get it in the air. I put the 11.1 1250 mah back in and it jumped into the air at 1/2 stick if you are going to run a 7.4 in the heli pictured I would suggest a gear change maybe a 10 or 11 tooth. So I guess you got the screws for your cp2.

#2557 jgoodwin Nov 15, 2006 04:36 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby k...i'm sure someone'll say"why'd you do that?" why not say I....

I know exactly why. I thought about moving it too (I like like your location). Recently I thought I had fried an RX or a XTL from nose down landings (;-)). I may very well move my electronics like you have. -Jay

#2558 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 15, 2006 06:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Xptical I'm looking for some ideas. The top hoop thingy has a couple of balls on it. The balls broke off due to rapid encounter with immovable object. I have one of the balls; the other is on walkabout. Post some ideas on how to get back up and moving. Buy a new top hoop thingy with the balls on it. Stop hitting immoveable objects. If you had both balls you could have done the ca and thread trick. But unless the other gets back from walkabout your out of luck.

#2559 dave49749 Nov 15, 2006 06:44 PM

Does anyone happen to know the thread number for the fuse mod? I have the 3 in 1 unit. Thanks

#2560 mem Nov 15, 2006 07:46 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by dave49749 Does anyone happen to know the thread number for the fuse mod? I have the 3 in 1 unit. Thanks

Dave, the fuse mod is here You may want to look into the ‘search this thread’ feature :)

#2561 Gino CP Nov 15, 2006 09:38 PM

That is a Blade CP. Yup it uses 11T. Remember that this has flat bottoms that is why it works reasonably well. I am still waiting for thr screws for my CP2.

#2562 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 15, 2006 10:29 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP That is a Blade CP. Yup it uses 11T. Remember that this has flat bottoms that is why it works reasonably well. I am still waiting for thr screws for my CP2. Gino are those screws coming by mule or what its got to be killing you. I Just finished a cp2 with gws 3n1 with the gyro turned down a Esky gyro mounted on the tail and esky rx from a king. If it ever stops blowing I might get it sorted out it seems like everything is working so it should fly. I am useing a advanced stock motor with a ten tooth pinion and 7.4 1250mah 10c csrc battery its worth a shot. If it works out at least the motor should run cool.

#2563 Gino CP Nov 15, 2006 10:52 PM

Is that a PHA 300? That can only handle 7.4v lipos. 10T will probably bog the heli down since they are symmetricals. 11T is your best bet. I tried a 12T on my flat bottoms and it drained power too much. Lucky my esc survived. I have a bad feeling about the screws. For some reason my online shop insisted on sending me a Walkera screw bag. From the pic I don't see the screws I need. I asked about the ESky hardware set and still they sent me the Walkera. To add insult to injury, they reshipped by registered mail. Duh. Looks like I am in for a long wait. In all likelihood I will be ordering the ESky hardware set. It is just that they cannot answer me if there are at least 6 pcs of the servo screws in there. Does anyone here know if there are 6 pcs of servo screws in there? Oh, I ditched the dual motor setup on the 7.4v CP. I had balance issues. And though tail is solid, left rotations are still sluggish due to the low head speed haha. I'll probably do the hot glue dual tail mod to the CP2. Speaking of which, that glue is tough. When I was removing it it seems it can handle much stress. It will make a good permanent dual tail mounting method.

#2564 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 15, 2006 11:35 PM

The screws that you need are in the Esky cp2 hardware bag I have one here in my spares. They were also in the walkera DF60 screw bag if thats what they are sending you along with every other screw you might need for these small helis. The 3n1 I am using is the PHA-01 it seems fine so far I got it on closeout from BP for $20 .

#2565 Andy2No Nov 15, 2006 11:37 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP Hot glued a second motor on my tail, soldered, and went flying. Ingenious! Very nice illustration too. I'd read posts about dual tail motors but I didn't realised they shared the same main cog and tail rotor like that, I'd pictured a second tail rotor and drive train. I suppose a more powerful motor is another option, but it might be harder to get it into the space.

#2566 dave49749 Nov 16, 2006 12:01 AM

Thanks mem I did not know a thread search existed. Thanks

#2567 jsy nobby Nov 16, 2006 12:31 AM tail problem

Lo All, finally sorted a problem that's been re-occuring over the past few days....I'd been having trouble keeping the tail steady and thought the gyro had gotten itself out of kilter somehow,anyways, after lots of goofing about with gain and proportional settings and getting nowhere fast,I stripped the electrics(AGAIN!!!!!!) found nothing visibly wrong and after removing the main rotors,span it up to check that I'd got the servo leads in their correct slots,as I upped the throttle all seemed ok,until I noticed that when I moved the right stick to check the cyclic controls,the green light on the 4-in-1 dimmed to barely visible and the servo that controls roll,twitching like a cat peeing on a cattle fence....To fix this? swap out servo from spare chopper,reset gyro and proportional settings back to normal,power on and away she flies....I'm gonna strip the servo and test the wires for continuity,think there maybe a broken one somewhere,I'll keep you posted! Regards, Andy.

#2568 Gino CP Nov 16, 2006 12:32 AM

People are experimenting with the longer EDP50H/EDF50H motors on the geared stock tail now. Just waiting for feedback. On paper it looks good. More efficient than the direct drive setup and more powerful than a stock tail. The desired result is better thrust than a dual tail but more efficient than a DD tail. The DD tail is notorious for eating up motors. The dual tail on the other hand is known to extend motor life. If I remember right, the GWS Dragonfly had a long can motor geared version. Or was that the standard tail motor?

#2569 Rare Bear Nov 16, 2006 01:54 AM

1 Attachment(s) Anyone running the Mega Power 850mah LiPo's w/ their Honeybee? I just ordered (6) of them for my Honeybee due to their light weight - 42g. They have JST connectors already installed, and they can be charged via my CX balance/charger, which is pretty cool. :) For $16.95 ea., they're a pretty great deal, too! So, w/ my other 800mah CX liPo's, I imagine I'll be getting some pretty nice flight time - can't wait!! Now, I just have to wait on Fed Ex - Dang it!! One other question; can I charge the CX LiPo's & these Mega Power LiPo's via my charger w/ the JST connectors? I hope so, because I can then charge (2) at once via my Mk2 charger. God bless - "Rare"

#2570 JustPlaneChris Nov 16, 2006 02:17 AM

Rare, I always charge my batteries via the 'output' connector instead of the balance connector. I don't have a balance charger! I do, however, have the CSRC version of the 'blinky' that I use to balance the cells when they get off a bit. I check the individual cell voltages with a voltmeter prior to every charge. Yes, I'm nit-picky. :p -Chris

#2571 Rare Bear Nov 16, 2006 02:33 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Rare, I always charge my batteries via the 'output' connector instead of the balance connector. I don't have a balance charger! I do, however, have the CSRC version of the 'blinky' that I use to balance the cells when they get off a bit. I check the individual cell voltages with a voltmeter prior to every charge. Yes, I'm nit-picky. :p -Chris

Sounds good, Chris. :) Thanks as always! :D I should be able to charge a few batteries at a time, although I'll probably just charge all my batteries in the evening & wait for sunup! Unfortunately, I'm missing out on beautiful, wind-free days, which is killing me!! I just pray that I'll have some good days when my FP makes it my way. Man, waiting is just no fun!! Not nit-picky, Chris - smart! You'll have all great batts w/ no issues, and I'll be the dummy posting pictures of my house ablaze!! :eek: :D :eek: God bless - "Rare"

#2572 dave49749 Nov 16, 2006 04:38 AM

I just set everything up and plugged a Lipo (not fully charged) in to see what might be going on. The 3 in 1 stayed red until the throttle was pushed to full then it glowed green, of course nothing happened. Well then for some reason it decided to power up right on the kitchen table, while my wife was on the phone. I hit the throttle and I think it was all the way down. It only stopped when the batt fell off. Naturally it had to cut my finger pretty good. This is my RC world :eek:

#2573 JustPlaneChris Nov 16, 2006 04:44 AM

Dave, sorry to hear about your finger! Ouch! It sounds like your throttle channel is reversed. It should blink green, then go steady only when the throttle is at idle (and the trim pulled all the way back). -Chris

#2574 dave49749 Nov 16, 2006 05:02 AM

It did it again! This time my thumb got sliced. Now I am scared of the thing. What happens is the light flashed red a few times then I put the throttle forward it flashes green a few times then lights off. It does not seem the throttle works at all when it does this. This time it hovered about 8 inches off the table then slid over where I grabbed it. Channel 3 is in its normal orientation, I tried to reverse the channel it went from red to blinking green then I pulled the battery. I was too scared it would light off again. Actually its kind of funny now. :censored:

#2575 mem Nov 16, 2006 05:11 AM

Dave, Take the blades off until you sort out the throttle (it does sound like chan 3 is reversed). You can also clamp the heli to the table by putting a weighted board through the skids, but be careful, skids can come off!

#2576 Wren1702 Nov 16, 2006 05:23 AM

When you plug in the battery the transmitter should be on and the throttle and throttle trim should be all the way down. After you plug up the battery the light should flash red a few times, then flash green a few times, the stay a solid green. If your throttle channel is reversed the light will never change to green. Hope this helps, Alan

#2577 Rare Bear Nov 16, 2006 09:15 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by dave49749 It did it again! This time my thumb got sliced. Now I am scared of the thing. What happens is the light flashed red a few times then I put the throttle forward it flashes green a few times then lights off. It does not seem the throttle works at all when it does this. This time it hovered about 8 inches off the table then slid over where I grabbed it. Channel 3 is in its normal orientation, I tried to reverse the channel it went from red to blinking green then I pulled the battery. I was too scared it would light off again. Actually its kind of funny now. :censored:

Dave - keep your throttle at zero when you plug your battery in, and don't advance it till you see an armed, solid green light. Also, be sure your throttle trim is down. Hope that helps. God bless - "Rare"

#2578 dave49749 Nov 16, 2006 01:54 PM

I am an idiot! It needed to be reversed that explains why it would light off like that. I was arming the speedo by putting the stick to full then when I lowered it to off position (actually full throttle) then she would start up. I just tried it out and it works fine, I put the throttle at the full position the 3 in 1 went solid green and I was able to give her a little bit of juice. At least everything is still in working order. Thank you all for the help.

#2579 jsy nobby Nov 16, 2006 07:17 PM

Dave, did your copter come with a manual? There's a section in there about how the servo reverse switches on the Tx should be configured,maybe reading up a little will save your digits! BTW as you may have noticed,trying to grab hold of your heli whilst it's rotors are zooming round is'nt a good idea :confused: :rolleyes: :eek: Happy flying, Andy.

#2580 dave49749 Nov 16, 2006 09:11 PM

I normally spend a large amount of time reading and rereading manuals but this thing is so dam cool, I jumped ahead a bit. In fact I have the throttle properly set up now and have just finished tempting fate again, with some spin ups. I will finish her up tonight and see what happens.

#2581 dave49749 Nov 16, 2006 09:13 PM

“trying to grab hold of your heli whilst it's rotors are zooming round is'nt a good idea” Don’t I know it! However I had to save the 3 in 1, as I have not done the fuse mod as of yet.

#2582 ktm520 Nov 16, 2006 09:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear One other question; can I charge the CX LiPo's & these Mega Power LiPo's via my charger w/ the JST connectors? I hope so, because I can then charge (2) at once via my Mk2 charger. rare, assuming by "JST" you are refering to the balance tap (the ouput is also a JST BEC connector), then yes you can charge both batteries via the balance tap. make sure the polarity on the tap is the same for both batteries. IF you are not refering to the balance tap, then yes again, you can charge both batteries via the output connector. either or will work.

#2583 brocja01 Nov 16, 2006 09:24 PM

Hey all, I know it has probably been stated, but I thought I would ask again since this thread is soooo huge. I'm wondering if I pick up a CP2 kit if I can move my electronics from my FP to the CP2? Eventually I'm going to go to the CP2, and would like to be able to re-use my electronics.

#2584 Gino CP Nov 16, 2006 10:49 PM

You will need a CCPM Tx, and extra servo. FP 4-in-1 will work. 2 servos will bolt right in. Assuming that is a Honeybee FP with 8g servos. You may need one ESky CP2 hardware set. My CP2 airframe didn't come with servo mounting screws. It did have servo mounts installed. You may want to pick up a second tail motor. Hot glue that in place (build glue fillets front and back of joint), solder in parallel for a super solid dual tail setup. But you will need an 11.1v 1320mah lipo to balance things out.

#2585 jsy nobby Nov 17, 2006 01:15 AM

A lesson well learned?

1 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by dave49749 “trying to grab hold of your heli whilst it's rotors are zooming round is'nt a good idea” Don’t I know it! However I had to save the 3 in 1, as I have not done the fuse mod as of yet.

Dave, I've not done the fuse mod either,but am looking into it at the mo...I've had my copter some 6 weeks now,and during practice sessions(I've learnt to hover in my bedroom,in a space of about 4ft x 4ft 'cos the weather has been so crappy over the past 2 months!!!) I've pranged my little chopper into various bits of furniture to no serious detriment,the honeybee fp is a very tough little helicopter! I have,however,also learned to shut off the gas if it gets a lttle too squirrely...from 3-6ft altitude,your copter will go downwards VERY quickly,but as long as you shut off the power to the rotors before the copter hits something, I've found that you'll do little or no damage,my heli's 4-in-1 hasn't suffered at all for the whooping it's taken,I've had to re-profile a main gear tooth or 20 with sandpaper mind....But, if you find yourself trying to hang on to to your copter as it's heading towards the largest object in the room,good for you,this is where all the practice starts to pay off! If you're really worried about the "brain box" have a look at this and see what you think....At the end of the day,I think the 4-in-1 will come off better than your fingers,and a broken 4-in-1 costs a hell of a lot less than a severed tendon....it says on the box "this is NOT a toy".... Andy.

#2586 dave49749 Nov 17, 2006 04:19 AM

At the end of the day,I think the 4-in-1 will come off better than your fingers,and a broken 4-in-1 costs a hell of a lot less than a severed tendon....it says on the box "this is NOT a toy".... I agree completely I am having no trouble at this point shutting her down at the first sight of trouble. I am thinking it’s more important to get her dialed in before I do the fuse mod, as I am not doing much with it now anyway. Thanks

#2587 dave49749 Nov 17, 2006 04:20 AM

Hey Gang, I had to reverse the tail motor connector because I could not control the tail at all. It simply spun around then when I applied some speed to the tail it only made the heli spin faster. Now it seems to work fine but a bit twitchy, but I have not fine tuned anything so far. Is this a normal occurrence for this heli? As far as the twitchy tail should I mess with the gain? Thanks Dave

#2588 Gino CP Nov 17, 2006 05:23 AM

Increase Proportion until tail is relatively steady. Increase gain until tail wags. the decrease until steady. Always make adjustment from a full pack. About 2 minutes into the charge, recheck and adjust gain and proportion if needed.

#2589 JustPlaneChris Nov 17, 2006 01:41 PM

And to add to what Gino said, disconnect the battery when you make these adjustments or they will not take effect! Do yourself a favor and do the fuse mod ASAP. Believe me when I say it will save you money! :) -Chris

#2590 dave49749 Nov 17, 2006 01:52 PM

Thanks. I will adjust those setting tonight, and Ill pick up some fuses today. Dave

#2591 jsy nobby Nov 17, 2006 06:15 PM break in an electric motor in a glass of water???

4 Attachment(s) "are you mad"? asked my non flying friends....I guess I must be 'cos I went ahead and did it anyways!!!! The stock motor duly arrived and I got one of the non-believers to pop round and be astounded! As you can see from the attached pix,it is possible to plonk an electric motor in a glass of water and come out working more efficiently to boot...note how much the colour of the water changed in 6 minutes. Best regards to all -Andy

#2592 JustPlaneChris Nov 17, 2006 06:36 PM

And aren't the gurgling noises fun? :D -Chris

#2593 jsy nobby Nov 17, 2006 08:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris And aren't the gurgling noises fun? :D -Chris thinking back Chris,the noise did bring a smile on!!!! :) :) :) :) -Andy

#2594 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 17, 2006 10:52 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby thinking back Chris,the noise did bring a smile on!!!! :) :) :) :) -Andy While at my local hobby shop I picked up some electric motor spray. You shake it up and spray it into the motor and onto the armature and brushes wow does some nasty stuff come out of the motor! then oil it back up and your good to go. The motor seems to run better being cleaned hopefully it will last longer to.

#2595 Gino CP Nov 17, 2006 11:27 PM

How do you validate the effect of water break-in? And what were the results?

#2596 CarbonPanda Nov 18, 2006 12:14 AM

FP dogfight

Got this link from a friend: http://hkrcpilot.com/videodatabase/20050724/FP2.wmv kinda fun.

#2597 SlowAero Nov 18, 2006 12:24 AM

1 Attachment(s) Help please - My HB FP has been giving very good results with HB King motor, 1/4" cut off each blade tip, and 800 x 7.4 lipos. Thirty hours - sappy handling - big grins and compliments from CP pilots. Last couple of runs, big problems with counter-clock-wise yaw when I add power. It has always done this a little but now its out of control. No fun any more. Thanks in advance for suggestions. SA

#2598 SlowAero Nov 18, 2006 12:43 AM

CarbonPanda - Thanks for the fantastically fun clip. SA

#2599 dave49749 Nov 18, 2006 01:09 AM

Quote: How do you validate the effect of water break-in? And what were the results?

I am not expert but ill try my best. Water break in has been used in the RC car racing arena to seat the motor brushes. When I was involved in RC cars I have used the water break technique on several occasions. It’s a good technique, however if you are not careful and it’s allowed to break in too long, it can limit the life of the brushes.

#2600 JustPlaneChris Nov 18, 2006 01:16 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by SlowAero Last couple of runs, big problems with counter-clock-wise yaw when I add power. It has always done this a little but now its out of control. No fun any more. Most likely your tail motor is failing, although it is possible the rubber piece that retains the tail blade is allowing it to slide out of the shaft and partially disengage from the gear. -Chris

#2601 SlowAero Nov 18, 2006 01:27 AM

Thanks Chris. I'll swap that tail motor out. I have certainly gotten my moneys worth out of it. Cheers-

#2602 Gino CP Nov 18, 2006 02:15 AM

Dave, I understand the purpose and methodology. But that is all that you described. I am asking how the benefits of doing so are manifested. How do you know your break-in efforts had paid off. If tangible, what are the results? I've raced electric rc cars in my day and had broken-in my brushes just by using them. I've removed brushes and dismantled these 540 class motors and seen normal comm wear and well worn brushes. I've never had a chipped brush breaking motors in just by normal use.

#2603 JustPlaneChris Nov 18, 2006 02:43 AM

Gino, it's probably hard to tangibly measure the difference. However, the brush design on these motors is conducive to the water break in. They are very "C" shaped when new, with only the outer points of the "C" touching the comm. They are also HARD brushes, and they don't seat fast like the softer replaceable brushes common in the 540 class car motors. What happens is these tiny contact points tend to arc and burn when you subject the motor to full power from the get-go. You can see the sparks, and of course it can cause glitches and the motor won't develop full power until the brushes wear down these points. You can break it in using low power settings and no water, but the water break-in simply accelerates the process and carries away the brush dust too. -Chris

#2604 dave49749 Nov 18, 2006 03:57 AM

Well gang I have her trimmed out and she’s scooting fine along the floor on the training gear. However I realize helicopters are not my cup of tea. I wish to thank everyone for the assistance.

#2605 JustPlaneChris Nov 18, 2006 04:08 AM

Dave, you're giving up already? You should at least stick with it until you achieve that magic moment when you can actually hover. You might change your mind. :) -Chris

#2606 Rare Bear Nov 18, 2006 04:15 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by dave49749 Well gang I have her trimmed out and she’s scooting fine along the floor on the training gear. However I realize helicopters are not my cup of tea. I wish to thank everyone for the assistance.

Don't give up, Dave - these heli's require patience & determination, but they are so rewarding when you finally catch on. Just give it another go, Dave - heli's fly like nothing else, and they're fun beyond words. Keep at it!! God bless - "Rare"

#2607 dave49749 Nov 18, 2006 04:31 AM

Well perhaps I should give her another go; I can be a bit hasty.

#2608 SlowAero Nov 18, 2006 04:32 AM

Dave - I have to add my encouragement to Chris's and Rare's. Have a look at CarbonPanda's video clip. These things are really, really, really! fun but it does take time. Very good stretching exercise for the brain. Take a nap (reboot) and try again. All the best, SA

#2609 bhbuster Nov 18, 2006 06:01 AM

Keep at it. I grew tired of scooting on the kitchen floor after the first day. I went out to the yard and scalped a 25 by 25 foot area. I spent the next month bunny hopping until I could get in a hover. Over time I noticed that I began to narrow the hover down until I was staying in a very small area. You should at least break some parts and do several rebuilds before you give it all up. For me....it seems like breaking is learning..... Now I am progressing nicely into circuits and figure eights....I still break a few parts every now and then, but it is worth it and the coolness factor can not be described. Brian

#2610 DangerBird Nov 18, 2006 06:24 AM

After ~200 flights, my HB FP started doing the same thing and the tail motor was heading south. (original main still going strong) Replaced it and it was back to normal. Disassembeled the tail motor and the brushes were nearly gone. I would rather have this sort of heads up than an inflight burnout which results in a permanent pirouette... until it hits the ground. :eek: After so many flights, buddies at the field are no longer laughing at my HB FP. :cool: :rolleyes: Have several stock KING motors on hand (as well as several KINGS) so maybe I will try one if this one ever goes south. Brush inspection shows about 30% left. Love this chopper and fly it several times a day. -Mike

#2611 EchoSix Nov 18, 2006 06:56 AM

Well I am officially a new owner of a HB II. I'm going to take it for my first spin later tonight when my camera woman gets home :) :) . It was alot bigger than I thought it would be. Only 2 things that kinda stood out. The blades seem to only tilt towards one side - same flybar paddle (maybe out of balance?) and the battery wasn't the best fit where the wires come out and clipped into the battery holder. I will use my BCX lipos once I get it hovering (hopefully soon). EchoSix

#2612 Rare Bear Nov 18, 2006 07:55 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by CarbonPanda Got this link from a friend: http://hkrcpilot.com/videodatabase/20050724/FP2.wmv kinda fun.

Well that's just freakin' cool!!! Makes me want to fly my Honeybee bad!!! :D God bless - "Rare"

#2613 Rare Bear Nov 18, 2006 08:41 AM

My Honeybee will be here today!!! :D:):D FedEx showed it as to be delivered on Tuesday, but it's coming 3 days early - love that! I can't wait to fly this thing!!! Even more, the next few days are going to be perfect & wind free - gotta love California weather!!! Now, about those taxes.... :mad: :( :mad: I'll post my first flights - nothing new or groundbreaking, just excited! :) God bless - "Rare"

#2614 mem Nov 18, 2006 09:01 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris You can break it in using low power settings and no water, but the water break-in simply accelerates the process and carries away the brush dust too. As I am sure Chris knows, a ‘Dry break-in’ using low power settings on the ESC may not eliminate arcing because even at low throttle settings the ESC drives the motor at full voltage in short bursts. A dry break is best done by connecting the motor to a couple of D cells. You can read more on dry break-in here

#2615 jsy nobby Nov 18, 2006 09:07 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by SlowAero Help please - My HB FP has been giving very good results with HB King motor, 1/4" cut off each blade tip, and 800 x 7.4 lipos. Thirty hours - sappy handling - big grins and compliments from CP pilots. Last couple of runs, big problems with counter-clock-wise yaw when I add power. It has always done this a little but now its out of control. No fun any more. Thanks in advance for suggestions. SA had this very same problem last night,no matter how much I adjusted the trim and proportional settings the tail wouldn't behave itself. I swapped out the tail motor and span it up and off she went..... Hope this helps, -Andy.

#2616 jsy nobby Nov 18, 2006 09:10 AM

Re the dogfight movie, all I can say is crazy japs,poor helicopters!

#2617 Gino CP Nov 18, 2006 10:07 AM

Pity on those helis. I was laughing my _ss off. It's a lose-lose game. I hope my screws arrive next week. My new CP2 is gathering dust.

#2618 jsy nobby Nov 18, 2006 01:12 PM

3 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by EchoSix Well I am officially a new owner of a HB II. I'm going to take it for my first spin later tonight when my camera woman gets home :) :) . It was alot bigger than I thought it would be. Only 2 things that kinda stood out. The blades seem to only tilt towards one side - same flybar paddle (maybe out of balance?) and the battery wasn't the best fit where the wires come out and clipped into the battery holder. I will use my BCX lipos once I get it hovering (hopefully soon). EchoSix

Hi EchoSix, these are pix of my copter with the rotors set at 5 degrees advance (mentioned in this HUGE thread long ago!!!!) note the slight offset of the rotorhead assembly,if you do this correctly then the flybar should be at 90 degrees to main axis shaft,if not then you're gonna need to balance the flybar(SSG posted a good way of doing this!) As for the battery hanger problem,if you push the battery into it with a little more oomph,you'll find it goes in,another wind on the rubber band'll hold it in place properly,I made a simple balancing tool from a wire coat hanger,crude but helps find the C of G! some folks have added coins to help balancing(adding weight to the nose of the copter) sliding the battery forward does the same job...happy flying and buy some spares!!!!! :) :rolleyes: Regards -Andy

#2619 spider1 Nov 18, 2006 01:25 PM

Dave, don't give up now, like the other guys have replied, the first time you get that bird to hover, the satisfaction you feel is amazing. Just try to keep everything simple. Don't over compensate your movements of the joysticks and besides you can't quit yet you haven't crashed, thats a great feeling to!!!

#2620 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 18, 2006 02:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear My Honeybee will be here today!!! :D:):D FedEx showed it as to be delivered on Tuesday, but it's coming 3 days early - love that! I can't wait to fly this thing!!! Even more, the next few days are going to be perfect & wind free - gotta love California weather!!! Now, about those taxes.... :mad: :( :mad: I'll post my first flights - nothing new or groundbreaking, just excited! :) God bless - "Rare" Rare Florida weather isn't to bad either and about those taxes we don't have a state tax. But they get us on everything else. I guess thats the price you pay for great weather most of the time.

#2621 bhbuster Nov 18, 2006 03:12 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bhbuster I decided that I should just get after it in the yard and stop worrying what would happen. A lot more harrowing than the scooting around on the kitchen floor. It was like up....wooah....down...whewww :o ...ok lets try it again....up...oh sh....dang.....wow (wiffle ball flinging 15 feet in the air) :eek: ....snap rotor head back down and try again.... this went on for over 30 minutes with the wife and I swapping the transmitter. I think this will create a much faster learning curve. I have not tightened the blades anymore than what came out of the box. I am wondering by not trying to tighten them anymore has saved me from breaking anything. They just folded back when we did our controlled nose down descent into the ground :rolleyes: . I have noticed that the head vibrates pretty good as I throttle up and then seems to smooth out. I am wondering if this is due to the blades needing to be more tight. one last thing; will the 4-in-1 hold up to these minor mishaps that I have had. Thanks, Brian Wife wants me to let everyone know that I crashed first :cool:

This is for you Dave..... This was my first time in the yard, and the second or third day that I owned the FP. I have come a long ways since that day in June...:D Brian

#2622 Chophop Nov 18, 2006 04:30 PM jsy nobby, What kind of blades do you have ? They don't look stock. And were they an improvement ? CH

#2623 jsy nobby Nov 18, 2006 06:03 PM

CH, these are just stock blades,I've noted that some of the rotors have the Esky logo on them and some haven't....I get my rotors from Buzzflyer in the uk and these seem to work well... -Andy.

#2624 jsy nobby Nov 18, 2006 06:43 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by dave49749 Well perhaps I should give her another go; I can be a bit hasty.

Dave, it takes a saint's patience to fly one of these little helicopters,too many of my mates have said"give us a go,if you can do it then I can" and they've now seen the light,it's not the easiest thing in the world to master,but it can be done!!!! Don't give in,it's only a little heli and you'll absolutely not be able to put the Tx down once you get the hang of flying it! Regards, -Andy

#2625 EchoSix Nov 18, 2006 09:36 PM

I took my first flight at 1 am this morning :D :D I posted the video in the video forum: Video of HB II I'm looking forward to some more flying with my new HB II! EchoSix

#2626 Gino CP Nov 18, 2006 10:22 PM

Just finished my 6am flight. Here in Manila, 72 deg mornings is a treat. That's why I love flying early. Calm winds. The sun barely up. I'm posting this from my lawn. A good way to welcome Sunday.

#2627 jsy nobby Nov 18, 2006 10:37 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by EchoSix I took my first flight a 1 am this morning :D :D I posted the video in the video forum: Video of HB II I'm looking forward to some more flying with my new HB II! EchoSix

How bloody clever are you? it took me a month just to get mine off the deck!!!!!well done 6!!!!!

#2628 jsy nobby Nov 18, 2006 10:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP Just finished my 6am flight. Here in Manila, 72 deg mornings is a treat. That's why I love flying early. Calm winds. The sun barely up. I'm posting this from my lawn. A good way to welcome Sunday.

Sounds lovely Gino, if i bring my copter can I come and stay with you for a while? :p :p :p :p

#2629 Gino CP Nov 18, 2006 11:17 PM

Sure just drop me off a CP Pro airframe.

#2630 jsy nobby Nov 18, 2006 11:50 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP Sure just drop me off a CP Pro airframe.

I'll bring one with me!!!!!

#2631 jsy nobby Nov 19, 2006 12:17 AM more mods to HB

4 Attachment(s) Lo all, justplanechris is gonna kill me for this!!!! Against his greater knowledge on all things HB FP,I've been busy tinkering away again...This time it's the rotor head stiffener I got with a rather expensive Aluminium upgrade kit and the tail boom upgrade that comes with a CP2 upgrade skid set. Chris ,I'm sorry, I just hate to see good parts just lying around doing nowt!!!! :p. First the stiffener,I got this little gizmo quite early on in my short flying career and bent a couple of main shafts by adding this and gave up on it for a while,until now that is...How much extra lift does one of these create? Flipping loads!!!!! copter hovers quite happily at about 1/3 throttle,me VERY happy bunny!!!!! Now for the boom upgrade,I did'nt like what the lateral "fin" that came with the CP2 skid upgrade set did to the back end of my copter(made it very twitchy) so I did away with it and made a little aluminium plate and drilled a couple of holes in it and screwed it down...Hey presto! one very stiff, responsive tail with no twitch! Chris, once again,my apologies....I know I should'nt have goofed around with such a fine machine(I still have my stock one unsullied by my grubby mitts!!!! :rolleyes:) I can't put into words how well this little heli flies outside!!!! And if anyone knows how to convert MOV files from a digital camera to AVI in a stable fashion,please let me know so I can upload some videos!!!!! Regards -Andy

#2632 dave49749 Nov 19, 2006 01:42 AM

Hello gang, I had her out side this AM! While the tail rotor works fine and keeping the HB stable on the floor, it did not perform so well while she was in the air. It was fine until she spun up and got about 2 feet in the air then it was difficult to keep it from spinning. Also when it got a bit too high then I lowered the throttle it would shake like crazy and loose altitude. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks Dave

#2633 Gino CP Nov 19, 2006 03:25 AM

Adjust proportion to hold the tail in a hover. Not on the ground. The shaking is common on FPs at low rpm, but smoothens out at hover. Just throttle down gently and don't let it get to the shaking bit too long. Check your main blade alignment too.

#2634 JustPlaneChris Nov 19, 2006 04:09 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby Lo all, justplanechris is gonna kill me for this!!!! No way, Andy! Whatever floats your boat (hovers your heli?) is cool with me. :) I actually like that aluminum head stiffener. Very spiffy! Makes me want to try making one out of aluminum instead of carbon fiber (like my current one). Hmm... I did promise to make one for someone else.... maybe I'll make two and try it out for myself before handing it over. :cool: -Chris

#2635 Gino CP Nov 19, 2006 04:26 AM

What's the deal with the stock bar? Flexing I suppose.

#2636 JustPlaneChris Nov 19, 2006 04:37 AM

Yep, the stock plastic head piece will bend, allowing the blades to "cone" excessively in forward flight. The head stiffener makes the heli behave a lot better in forward flight. In my case, it also allows me to use bolts and nuts to retain the blades, so they can pivot freely. A very worthwhile mod. :) -Chris

#2637 Gino CP Nov 19, 2006 05:37 AM

Oh they should move freely? I though just tight enough to hold position but loose enough to break away on impact.

#2638 mem Nov 19, 2006 10:44 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby if anyone knows how to convert MOV files from a digital camera to AVI in a stable fashion,please let me know so I can upload some videos!!!!! -Andy Andy, depends on the codec in your camera but here is a link to Super which is pretty good software and is free. Where did you get the stiffener, I had a search on the buzzflyer site and didn’t see it.

#2639 JustPlaneChris Nov 19, 2006 02:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP Oh they should move freely? I though just tight enough to hold position but loose enough to break away on impact. Everyone has their own preference, and each setup is a little different. Mine are loose enough that they will just barely stay in position if I tilt the heli sideways. A slight tap will make them rotate. -Chris

#2640 jsy nobby Nov 19, 2006 02:34 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Andy, depends on the codec in your camera but here is a link to Super which is pretty good software and is free. Where did you get the stiffener, I had a search on the buzzflyer site and didn’t see it. ta for the link mem,I'll give it a go! the stiffener comes with the full aluminium upgrade kit costs £70:00 Quite a lot of money for just a little piece of aluminium!!!! I've used the other bits on my new heli tho,it's a work in progress at the moment. -Andy

#2641 bod001 Nov 19, 2006 05:32 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Where did you get the stiffener, I had a search on the buzzflyer site and didn’t see it.

I got the carbon fibre head stiffener from midland helicopters. (part no. CNCARBON14) Its for the hummingbird tho but it fits and works perfectly and also came with the through bolts.

#2642 mem Nov 19, 2006 06:19 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bod001 I got the carbon fibre head stiffener from midland helicopters. (part no. CNCARBON14) Its for the hummingbird tho but it fits and works perfectly and also came with the through bolts. Thanks bod, there is no pic, did you need to order bolts and nuts or did they come with it. I have M2.5 bolts but no 2.5 lock nuts and 4-40 lock nuts but no 4-40 bolts the right size.

#2643 dave49749 Nov 19, 2006 07:27 PM

Well I have been convinced to give this another tray. This time I will re assemble the FP with a bit more knowledge in hand. I did find it difficult to get her to balance the firs time, and I need to set the 3 in 1 up for a stable tail in hover not on the floor. After all it’s not a pricey item and it really looks like fun. I just need to be patient and progress slowly. Thanks Dave

#2644 jsy nobby Nov 19, 2006 08:29 PM glad to hear you're still a pilot Dave,it may take some time but I'm sure you'll crack it soon!!!!! -Andy

#2645 bod001 Nov 19, 2006 08:43 PM

1 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by mem Thanks bod, there is no pic, did you need to order bolts and nuts or did they come with it. I have M2.5 bolts but no 2.5 lock nuts and 4- 40 lock nuts but no 4-40 bolts the right size.

It came with the nuts and bolts.

#2646 mem Nov 19, 2006 10:14 PM

Thanks Bod, I think I will give it a try

#2647 Rare Bear Nov 20, 2006 03:52 AM

Had a chance to fly my new FP!! Man, this heli flies smooth - very stable hovering, and very nimble as well. My first 3 flights were indoors, and my real flights were outside the next day - some serious FFF dives, climbs & turns! :D I love this little heli, and it will probably be the most flown out of my collection. I went through (4) of my 850mah battery packs today, and they worked great - lots of flying time, and the Velcro held great. Unfortunately, a tree branch reached out and slapped my little heli out of the sky on a hard banking turn, and I broke my frame - dang it!! My rotor head was very easy to fix, but the frame will be something else. So, I just ordered a barebones so I can swap over my electronics & use my damaged heli for parts. Right now, I'm hoping some CA will save the day till my new parts come in - still have a lot of flights I want to take & a lot of cats to scare, too. :) I just wish that frame was stronger - seems like a weak point, although my skills could be spoken of in the same way!! Dang tree!! Can't wait for another flight - this little bird rocks!!! :D :) :D God bless - "Rare"

#2648 Rare Bear Nov 20, 2006 04:03 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris No way, Andy! Whatever floats your boat (hovers your heli?) is cool with me. :) I actually like that aluminum head stiffener. Very spiffy! Makes me want to try making one out of aluminum instead of carbon fiber (like my current one). Hmm... I did promise to make one for someone else.... maybe I'll make two and try it out for myself before handing it over. :cool: -Chris

I noticed a lot of "pitch up" in forward flight, although I was quite shocked at thye speeds this heli would take - some wicked FFF descets using full power just to pull out. But, on recovery, the nose would pitch up near vertical w/out a lot of forward stick, but just a bit of right rudder & nose down, and it's FFF all over again!! The stiffener helps a lot, Chris? I'm curious - will be interesing to see the comparison!! God bless - "Rare"

#2649 dave49749 Nov 20, 2006 04:04 AM

Thanks Andy good to be back.

#2650 JustPlaneChris Nov 20, 2006 04:41 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear The stiffener helps a lot, Chris? I'm curious - will be interesing to see the comparison!! Indeed it does! I hope to be able to make one this week, since I have two days off for the holiday. Did the tailboom break out of the frame? If so, that is a definite weak spot in the frame. CA it back in, fill in the gaps along the side with thick CA and kick it, then wrap the whole thing with thread and soak it with CA. It won't break again. :D I told you that you'd like this little guy. It's just loads of fun! :cool: -Chris

#2651 Rare Bear Nov 20, 2006 07:38 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Indeed it does! I hope to be able to make one this week, since I have two days off for the holiday. Did the tailboom break out of the frame? If so, that is a definite weak spot in the frame. CA it back in, fill in the gaps along the side with thick CA and kick it, then wrap the whole thing with thread and soak it with CA. It won't break again. :D I told you that you'd like this little guy. It's just loads of fun! :cool: -Chris

Good to hear, Chris - will be nice to tame that pitch up tendancy! As for the stiffener, take all the time you need - vacation is for family, turkey & relaxing!! :) No, the tail boom is fine - the actual frame broke. I CA'd it as best as I can, and I'm hoping that will hold. It will break when it crashes, but I'm going to take it easy till my parts come in - just some light flying & such. Yeah, I do love this little guy - my girlfriend says it's "cute." :D I won't use that terminology, but this heli is loads of fun, and compared to my others, I can actually breath while flying!!! I'm going to learn a lot, too, because FFF is still new to me with my bigger birds, and when that nose comes around at me, I need to bump my skills up so I won't panic & crash. Love this bird, though, although my cats are horrified!!! :D :D :D God bless - "Rare"

#2652 JustPlaneChris Nov 20, 2006 02:30 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear No, the tail boom is fine - the actual frame broke. I CA'd it as best as I can, and I'm hoping that will hold. Weird! Where did it break? I've had some pretty bad crashes with my CP2 and FP2 (same frame) and the only things I've broken are the tail boom attach point (3 times!) and the little nubs that stick out where the landing gear attach sockets screw on. CA and thread (especially Kevlar thread) or CA and carbon fiber tow are miracle workers when it comes to repairing these little guys. :) I'm very glad to see you are having fun with your FP! I try to explain all the time how it's a valuable learning tool, even if you already know how to hover a heli, but it seems like lots of folks scoff at this "low-tech" machine. They think they will outgrow it too quickly, but I disagree! There is something about the "fearless" aspect of it that encourages you to practice the uncomfortable orientations that you'd try to avoid with your more expensive and/or intimidating helis. My FP is still the most-flown heli of my fleet. :cool: -Chris

#2653 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 20, 2006 02:54 PM

My FP is still the most-flown heli of my fleet.

My FP is still the most-flown heli of my fleet. I couldn't agree more the fp is a great learning tool now if we could only loop it or get it inverted. Lots of people have learned to hover then fly one of these little guys. They are just to much stress free fun to not keep around and this little fp makes you smile every time you fly or crash it which ever. They will take a beating I was thinking about upgrading then I looked around and realized I have plenty of helis now and the Esky helis are pretty problem free as they are. Why mess with a good thing.

#2654 TheWolfen Nov 20, 2006 05:41 PM

Just a quick note to let you all know why I've been missing the last several days. It isn't because I didn't want to be here - my 81 yr old father has been in the hospital (ICU) and nearly didn't make it there for awhile. :( He'd doing better now but it is going slow... I haven't been able to even think about the heli (plus I'm not at home) lately. I'll probably have to start the lessons all over again! Oh well.. things will be back to normal soon. Take care, everyone! David

#2655 brocja01 Nov 20, 2006 05:51 PM

TheWolfen - Sorry to hear about your dad! Our prayers are with you! Hey all, I've been searching the thread and haven't had much luck with finding any links on where to purchase a head stiffiner. I really don't have the tools at home to make a carbon fibre one, and I can't seem to find the aluminum one, and the popsicle stick one I would like to leave to my last resort. Any suggestions on what to use when creating one, something that could be created with some basic house hold tools? Thanks all in advance.

#2656 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 20, 2006 05:54 PM

David hope everything goes well with your dad. Sometimes we have to put things on hold that we really like doing but remember the family always comes first, they won't be around forever. Helis will be there when ever you get the time for them. Hope all is well for you and yours thru the holidays.

#2657 bhbuster Nov 20, 2006 08:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by brocja01 TheWolfen - Sorry to hear about your dad! Our prayers are with you! Hey all, I've been searching the thread and haven't had much luck with finding any links on where to purchase a head stiffiner. I really don't have the tools at home to make a carbon fibre one, and I can't seem to find the aluminum one, and the popsicle stick one I would like to leave to my last resort. Any suggestions on what to use when creating one, something that could be created with some basic house hold tools? Thanks all in advance.

I think this will work for you: http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?i...042&pid=T909505 I am not using this so it is just an assumption.

#2658 bod001 Nov 20, 2006 08:47 PM

This also will fit, take a look here at helihobby the part no. is PART#HH2248, the carbon fibre one is the same as the one i posted a pic of. there is also some other pics of one of these stiffeners fitted to there honey bee somewhere in this thread.

#2659 bhbuster Nov 20, 2006 09:17 PM

Well, it looks like I am going to have to check out for awhile. My poor old honeybee finally gave up the ghost:(. Even with all of my patch work I knew I was on borrowed time and my luck would run out. Today it finally gave in and I just finished salvaging what good parts were left in it. With our out of state trip this week and Christmas & birthdays next month, priorities will have to come first. Man I can al re ady fe eel tth tthe shaaakess.... Anyways I will stop crying over my spilt milk and will continue to lurk about and offer any worthless advice that I can. Later, Brian

#2660 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 20, 2006 09:39 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bhbuster Well, it looks like I am going to have to check out for awhile. My poor old honeybee finally gave up the ghost:(. Even with all of my patch work I knew I was on borrowed time and my luck would run out. Today it finally gave in and I just finished salvaging what good parts were left in it. With our out of state trip this week and Christmas & birthdays next month, priorities will have to come first. Man I can al re ady fe eel tth tthe shaaakess.... Anyways I will stop crying over my spilt milk and will continue to lurk about and offer any worthless advice that I can. Later, Brian Brian Dave is giving up again and has his FP on the forsale threads for $45 shipped you could always grab that its a real good price.

#2661 brocja01 Nov 20, 2006 10:59 PM

Alright guys, I'm sorry to ask this. I know for fact that it is covered in the thread, but after 30 minutes of searching, it is time to ask the question. Chris, I've been trying to find the post where you tell us where you got your batteries. I'm hoping that for xmas I get a little money and would like to upgrade to lipo, and you have had good luck with the batteries you've upgraded to. Thanks a bunch!!!

#2662 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 20, 2006 11:08 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by brocja01 Alright guys, I'm sorry to ask this. I know for fact that it is covered in the thread, but after 30 minutes of searching, it is time to ask the question. Chris, I've been trying to find the post where you tell us where you got your batteries. I'm hoping that for xmas I get a little money and would like to upgrade to lipo, and you have had good luck with the batteries you've upgraded to. Thanks a bunch!!! Common sense is where most of the guys get there batterys http://www.commonsenserccom most of the guys use the 7.4 800mah 10c I use the 8c with no problem the choice is yours. These work real well on the fp. I use there 11.1 1250mah 10c on my CP2 also works great.

#2663 JustPlaneChris Nov 20, 2006 11:37 PM

Yep, that's the place. I've been running these packs since June: http://www.commonsenserc.com/produc...&products_id=42 At $13.95 each, they are (in my opinion) the perfect battery for the FP. :) -Chris

#2664 jsy nobby Nov 21, 2006 01:21 AM

Bet you ain't got one of these!

5 Attachment(s) Lo all, I've been struggling to come up with a reliable way of balancing rotor blades...Et voila!!!! Nobby's unpatented rotor blade balancer!! I made this from a metal strip from a car windshield wiper,a mini spirit level and some super glue.I used a Dremel to cup the ends of the steel and knife edge the cups to reduce stiction...(this is if you ain't got sophisticated weighing stuff!!!) trim rotor or add tape as you see fit....I trimmed and sanded,works well!!!!

#2665 JustPlaneChris Nov 21, 2006 02:28 AM

Clever! I like it. :) -Chris

#2666 Gino CP Nov 21, 2006 02:40 AM

I'd rather mount that blade holder on a base board. Drop the rotor on it and line up the level along the blade grips to see if they are level. This way, I need not bother making the base or table level at all. And you can balance in the field if need be.

#2667 Rare Bear Nov 21, 2006 04:28 AM

Well, My little FP bit the dust - hard. :mad: I was doing some FFF circuits in my front yard, and in a climbing turn, I got too close to some tress & power lines. Well, I tried to pull it out, but I panicked, and before I knew it, my poor little heli turned around on me, pointed nose down & dropped to the ground below - ouch. :( The frame is toast; main blades are damaged; rotor head is gone; main shaft is more than likely bent; and the skids & canopy took a beating. Thankfully, I have a brebones on the way, which is desperately needed, because this heli is gone. Hopefully my 4 in 1 didn't take too much of a hit - I'll be sick if I damaged that. :mad: :( :mad: I'm bummed - was having a lot of fun w/ that little bird!! I have too many trees in my yard, though - makes it hard for FFF & graceful turns. But, she'll be flying soon - hopefully by the weekend, and at the very latest, early next week. Till then, I'll be sulking. :( God bless - "Rare"

#2668 JustPlaneChris Nov 21, 2006 04:31 AM

Bummer, Rare! I know how you feel, my last bad crash with my FP was knife-edge into the street. Ouch! That one broke the tail boom out of the frame, and cost me a paddle control frame too. Amazingly, it didn't bend the shaft. I think when you get your new one going, you need to spend a lot of time practicing nose-in hover so you feel more comfy flying it towards you. I still need practice too... -Chris

#2669 nickburns Nov 21, 2006 04:44 AM

Why is no one besides hobby lobby selling the hpfpIII aka Mk3?

After reading all 178 pages of this thread and searching this forum and *cough* another forum, I can't for the life of me find anyone selling the HBFPIII aka Mk3 besides hobby lobby. Anyone seen it else where? I have decided to get a HBFP, but I am torn if I should wait until after christmas to try to get a Mk3 on sale or just go ahead and get the FPII. My initial purchase should stay below $150, my wife call all things rc a "money pit". Question #2: Has any of the HBFPII pilots tried the real flight g3 model posted here ? Are the models very close to real flight? Do you really have to chase the tail that much? The enhanced version (with lipos) is much more stable.

#2670 TheWolfen Nov 21, 2006 04:57 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mrmuffinmanvw David hope everything goes well with your dad. Sometimes we have to put things on hold that we really like doing but remember the family always comes first, they won't be around forever. Helis will be there when ever you get the time for them. Hope all is well for you and yours thru the holidays. Thanks, guys. No question about it... my parents are always the top priority. Nothing is more important than they are. I'm very lucky - my dad is my best friend, too. I'm thinking of buying him a little heli for Christmas - I think he'd enjoy it once he is feeling better. :) For those of you who celebrate it.. have a Happy Thanksgiving! David

#2671 mem Nov 21, 2006 05:37 AM

Wolfen, You may want to start him off with something gentle like a PiccoZ; as Rare and Chris have recently demonstrated, the HB can generate more excitement then your dad needs at the moment. Best wishes and happy thanksgiving

#2672 Rare Bear Nov 21, 2006 07:49 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Bummer, Rare! I know how you feel, my last bad crash with my FP was knife-edge into the street. Ouch! That one broke the tail boom out of the frame, and cost me a paddle control frame too. Amazingly, it didn't bend the shaft. I think when you get your new one going, you need to spend a lot of time practicing nose-in hover so you feel more comfy flying it towards you. I still need practice too... -Chris

You're right, Chris - nose in is a definite weak point for me, but my bird was doomed - just way up, and headed straight down! My bird was doomed from the get-go, but that's okay - just need to dial things down a bit & fly this heli a little less aggressively. :) If I had a wide, open place to fly, my bird would be flying nice, but that's okay - she'll be flying soon again. :D As of now, my FP2 is a pile of parts - I managed to break it down on my own, which was trying & time consuming, but very rewarding. :) Now, my new FP2 barebones kit is ready for electronics, so I'm set to go - when it arrives, of course. :( Any surprises I should be wary of when swapping the servos & 4 in 1? I wrote down where the servo wires & motor wires go, and I plan on using double stick tape to install the 4 in 1 as it was. From my view, it's an easy swap, but I've been wrong many, many times before. :) Any help would be appreciated. God bless - "Rare"

#2673 Gino CP Nov 21, 2006 08:48 AM

Learning nose-ins has saved my heli from many potential crashes. Now I can get out of most situations since I can control the heli in all orientations. Nose-in isn't as hard as most would think. Just keep practicing as you did when you were starting to hover. I learned fast since I had better throttle control after flying for some time. And I knew what destroys the heli hehe.

#2674 schke Nov 21, 2006 09:28 AM

I just got some replacement parts including a new main frame for my FP2. The last time I replace the main frame with the tail boom, I had to glue the boom in place. What is the best glue to use? I tried using CA and it didn't seem to want to hold very well.

#2675 mem Nov 21, 2006 09:56 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear Any surprises I should be wary of when swapping the servos & 4 in 1? I wrote down where the servo wires & motor wires go, and I plan on using double stick tape to install the 4 in 1 as it was. From my view, it's an easy swap, but I've been wrong many, many times before. :) Any help would be appreciated. God bless - "Rare" Rare, The swap should be easy as long as there was no damage to your electronics. If you have not already done so, check that the servos are running smoothly and that the 4 in 1 is working reliably. Damage to the crystal or to the antenna wire where it enters the case are particular things to look out for. While you are waiting for that barebones to arrive, you can do a thorough check for any glitching or problems with a range test when the 4 in 1 is lightly shaken. Otherwise, it should be plug and play. Have fun

#2676 brocja01 Nov 21, 2006 02:10 PM

What kind of chargers do you guys use? I'm looking through the sites and there are so many to choose from that it is very easy to get lost. I'm looking for a charger that will grow with me to possibly the Trex LVL of electric heli. But, I also don't want to drop $80 - $150 on a charger. Any suggestions?

#2677 mem Nov 21, 2006 02:17 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bod001 I got the carbon fibre head stiffener from midland helicopters. (part no. CNCARBON14) Its for the hummingbird tho but it fits and works perfectly and also came with the through bolts. Bod, the head stiffener arrived today, impressively fast delivery from Midland. I presume you didn’t use the 1/8 inch spacer that came with it? I am not sure when the wind will die down enough to fly outside again but I am looking forward to seeing what difference the stiffener makes. Thanks again for the suggestion.

#2678 spider1 Nov 21, 2006 02:27 PM

Brocja, I have been using the Dynm supermate from Helidirect http://www.helidirect.com/product_i...roducts_id=1146 It works quite well and charges the cells individually up to 4 cells. It also will charge 2-7.4 volt 2 cell lipos at the same time, which is great because none of us can wait for the batteries to recharge so we can get back into the air. We are all addicts to this thing we call our hobby.

#2679 cameroon Nov 21, 2006 02:37 PM

I like my Accu Cycle Elite, it charges NiMH and LiPo (up to 10 cell and 4 cell respectively) and can charge two at a time (can mix chemistry and capacity). It can only charge at 2A and it doesn't do balancing (got the "Ultra" balancer from CommonSense RC for that), but it comes with a 12V AC to DC converter and is perfect for my needs (micro helis and the batteries I use in my Optic 6).

#2680 bod001 Nov 21, 2006 02:37 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Bod, the head stiffener arrived today, impressively fast delivery from Midland. I presume you didn’t use the 1/8 inch spacer that came with it? I am not sure when the wind will die down enough to fly outside again but I am looking forward to seeing what difference the stiffener makes. Thanks again for the suggestion.

Thanks for letting me know. I have ordered a few bits and pieces from them and its always been next day. I never used the spacers i made a couple of plastic ones so the stiffener fitted flush to the head without pulling it down too much. i also ordered the lightened flybar paddles for the hummingbird from them(CNE006A : FLYBAR PADDLES AND SCREWS HB V3) they fitted perfectly and made the heli alot more responsive. Hope you can get outside soon, its blowing a gale where i am so i am grounded too. Cheers

#2681 mem Nov 21, 2006 02:39 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by spider1 Brocja, I have been using the Dynm supermate from Helidirect http://www.helidirect.com/product_i...roducts_id=1146 It works quite well and charges the cells individually up to 4 cells. It also will charge 2-7.4 volt 2 cell lipos at the same time, which is great because none of us can wait for the batteries to recharge so we can get back into the air. We are all addicts to this thing we call our hobby. Spider, I wonder if that charger is a little hot for the 800ma batteries that many of us use. The user manual on the HeliDirect site says it charges at 1000ma. The manual also states that you should choose a charge rate under 1C (good advice IMHO) but says nothing about how to change the current

#2682 mem Nov 21, 2006 02:42 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bod001 Thanks for letting me know. I have ordered a few bits and pieces from them and its always been next day. I never used the spacers i made a couple of plastic ones so the stiffener fitted flush to the head without pulling it down too much. i also ordered the lightened flybar paddles for the hummingbird from them(CNE006A : FLYBAR PADDLES AND SCREWS HB V3) they fitted perfectly and made the heli alot more responsive. Hope you can get outside soon, its blowing a gale where i am so i am grounded too. Cheers Bod, not quite grounded, I am flying in the living room! Big enough to practice nose in hover, not big enough for FF :)

#2683 bod001 Nov 21, 2006 02:47 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Bod, not quite grounded, I am flying in the living room! Big enough to practice nose in hover, not big enough for FF :) im not that lucky i am at work!!!!! busy as you can tell!

#2684 bhbuster Nov 21, 2006 05:00 PM

This is what I am using: http://www.newcreations-rc.com/Prod...emnumber=158374 A Prodigy Pro-Peak II and a converted pc power supply contained in a metal toolbox.

#2685 Alan Kaf Nov 21, 2006 05:42 PM

I use the Cellpro charger -- the price was just reduced to $60. It balances while charging. http://www.fmadirect.com/products.htm?cat=45&nid=4 --Alan

#2686 jsy nobby Nov 22, 2006 05:12 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by schke I just got some replacement parts including a new main frame for my FP2. The last time I replace the main frame with the tail boom, I had to glue the boom in place. What is the best glue to use? I tried using CA and it didn't seem to want to hold very well.

I use flexible CA available from http://www.buzzflyer.co.uk/RC-Helic...-Glue/p-90-348/ it's good stuff!! Regards-Andy

#2687 schke Nov 22, 2006 05:21 PM anything like the flex CA sold over the counter?

#2688 Gino CP Nov 22, 2006 05:26 PM

Is the flexible CA the same as CA gel?

#2689 jsy nobby Nov 22, 2006 10:51 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by schke anything like the flex CA sold over the counter?

Might be....this stuff is black and kind of gloopy when it's in it's liquid form.

#2690 jsy nobby Nov 22, 2006 10:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP Is the flexible CA the same as CA gel?

Don't think so Gino...Gel CA goes rock hard and leaves a white residue when it goes off,the stuff i got seems to have some kind of rubber compound mixed in with the adhesive....does'nt seem to leave a nasty white mark where repairs have been made.

#2691 jsy nobby Nov 22, 2006 11:33 PM

A learning curve I guess...

Lo all, After the past couple of days I've learned a lesson or 3 it would seem, my poor helicopter is now on it's third down-grade,Chris,this will gratify the nit-picker in you! :p ,My list of failed components goes as follows....2 servos,2 main motors(one water broken and timed),2 tail motors,1 10t pinion gear(worn out on timed motor),2 main drive gears(teeth smeared from loss of tail authority and crashing into things that should'nt be crashed into!!!! eek: ) not forgetting the bent and dented Tx antenna from staving off an out of control Honeybee(was kind of funny,A duel between man and small flying machine :D ). And all because I assumed that the 3 cell 1200mah lipo's my now not so favourite supplier suggested as an upgrade would be ok.....more fool me for using them methinks!!! Nevermind say I, A few more pennies may well be spent yet,payday looms and the plastic is saying "bend me". My conclusion? Don't use 3 cell lipo's on your honeybee without a dual tail motor upgrade...things seem to get fried.... Regards of the best kind!! -Andy P.S. this is for JPC....I'm back flying my stocker with the head stiffener and 2 cell 800mah 12c batteries,well balanced main and tail rotors and it flies so well I nearly wet my pants.....Only 'cos I did'nt want to put down the Tx and go to the loo!!!!!

#2692 Gino CP Nov 22, 2006 11:42 PM

I am surprised you haven't burned your 4-in-1 running 10T with an 11.1v lipo.

#2693 jsy nobby Nov 22, 2006 11:55 PM

I've been wondering about that Gino....it would seem that the 4-in -1 for the EKH-E1004 is the same for the EKH-E1006 CP2 which is capable of running 11.1v 3 cell lipo batteries as an optional upgrade....but then what do these web-stores really know about this kind of stuff? But then again,I have 2 4-in-1 controller units and both seem to have held their own on the 3 cell batteries....

#2694 JustPlaneChris Nov 22, 2006 11:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby P.S. this is for JPC....I'm back flying my stocker with the head stiffener and 2 cell 800mah 12c batteries,well balanced main and tail rotors and it flies so well I nearly wet my pants.....Only 'cos I did'nt want to put down the Tx and go to the loo!!!!! LOL! Too funny, Andy. And I will refrain from typing "I told you so", though I might say it to myself. ;) :p -Chris

#2695 jsy nobby Nov 23, 2006 12:04 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris LOL! Too funny, Andy. And I will refrain from typing "I told you so", though I might say it to myself. ;) :p -Chris

Had a feeling you'd enjoy rubbing the salt in Chris!!!!heheheheheh!!!! -Andy

#2696 Gino CP Nov 23, 2006 12:21 AM

Well I got my answer re 9T , flat bottoms, 11.1v, Esky 4-in-1. Fried the sucker, heli piro'e full speed into a swing. Broke the boom, damaged the blades. The tail motor cable ripped 2 inches through the carbon fiber boom. Nasty. This will be my worse weekend yet. Parts a good 2 weeks away. Oh well. have fun guys. I know I won't. Hmp.

#2697 JustPlaneChris Nov 23, 2006 12:41 AM

Sounds like the tail motor gave out?? I've been running my Esky 4-in-1 on 11.1 v for several months with no ill effects at all. Did you have the fuse mod installed? -Chris

#2698 jsy nobby Nov 23, 2006 12:42 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP Well I got my answer re 9T , flat bottoms, 11.1v, Esky 4-in-1. Fried the sucker, heli piro'e full speed into a swing. Broke the boom, damaged the blades. The tail motor cable ripped 2 inches through the carbon fiber boom. Nasty. This will be my worse weekend yet. Parts a good 2 weeks away. Oh well. have fun guys. I know I won't. Hmp.

Oh C##P!!! Hope that was'nt my fault? I fear I may well have failed to mention that my 11.1v lipos have a discharge rate of 10c... :( :( from what I've read here and there,the extra power from 11.1v batteries has a tendency to burn out a single tail motor, a dual motor upgrade apparently soaks up the excess power,easing the load on each motor....looks good on a web page...

#2699 Gino CP Nov 23, 2006 12:54 AM

I was suspecting the 12c-15c rating of my lipo. Now I don't know if I can risk using these batteries again with the 9T, symmetrical combo. Should I get stock Esky lipos? No fuse mod. Stupid me. I can't find 7.5v mini fuses here. Nope, it's not the tail. There was a clear full throttle glitch and heli flew at an angle which I had induced otherwise heli would have lifted off vertically unstoppable. I just pitched and rolled till I got it horizontal. Better than injuring people outside the yard. No one's fault. If anything it is mine. The Eflite manual says 9T on flat blades and 3s lipo is ok. My bad to assume the same for the Esky 4-in-1. Well, I have a new CP2 here. Still no screws. I'll just order a new 4-in-1, perhaps the separate Rx and 3-in-1 to make it brushless ready. I still have fets and diodes but I don't want to go to the trouble again. Can't risk damaging the new heli. I still have my old but good CP airframe. I can go back to my old reliable 7.4v setup if I really want to get back in the air. But after enjoying the speed and tail power of 11.1v again, I don't think I will be very happy.

#2700 Pwog Nov 23, 2006 02:26 AM

New To the FP2

I've just had delivered a new FP2 mk3 this week and I love it. I was hovering on my second pack. After mastering a Blade CX this seems to be a great step before going to a ccpm machine. Because there are no LHS that cary this machine I was wondering what other Heli's parts will work on it? I'm also ordering a barebones airframe to have on hand.

#2701 Gino CP Nov 23, 2006 02:45 AM

That's good. So the CX served you well.

#2702 Pwog Nov 23, 2006 03:38 AM

BCX training

Totally. If it were not for all the broken CX parts and training I'm certain I would have trouble with this bird. This FP2 is great so far. I've noticed the motor was a little hot at the end of my flights tonight. I think will pick up a 370 motor heat sink and one for the tail motor also. They should fit from other heli's won't they?

#2703 spider1 Nov 23, 2006 03:46 AM

Mem, I have had no problem with packs getting warm or overcharging, I have been using it for about 3 months, pretty much everyday. Sorry I have said that I charge 2 packs at a time, making it look like a 1600 mah batery. I have seen no ill effects on the lipos getting a good 8-10 minutes out of my 800mah paks, I don't fly them any longer than 10 minutes. I always test voltage of pack after flight, seems to be 6 to 6.3 volts left in packs.

#2704 JustPlaneChris Nov 23, 2006 03:47 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Pwog I've noticed the motor was a little hot at the end of my flights tonight. I think will pick up a 370 motor heat sink and one for the tail motor also. They should fit from other heli's won't they? Yep, they should fit. The tail motor is not round, so you'll need one of the heat sinks with the flat sides, like for the Blade CP. They definitely make a difference, I run them on my FP. :) -Chris

#2705 Rare Bear Nov 23, 2006 06:22 AM

Hey, does anyone fly a GWS Dragonfly w/ the Direct Drive tail rotor? I saw these at Tower Hobbies, and they looked quite cool. How do they come to the Honeybee FP? Just curiouis - may have to pick one up down the road. :D God bless - "Rare"

#2706 Gino CP Nov 23, 2006 08:14 AM

I come close to flying that. I had a Blade CP with GWS servos, GWS PHA 300 3-in-1, GWS DD tail, and 7.4v lipo. It is a pleasant heli. Quite tame. Decent tail. Good runtime. Tail is a bit slow on 7.4v which is the most this heli can handle in its configuration. To be honest, I prefer a geared tail. It lasts longer and left and right piros are almost the same.

#2707 Pwog Nov 24, 2006 06:04 AM vibration/shake

I'm am able to hover steady at 4 foot range but the heli seems to vibrate a bit. Blade tracking seems good and I've tried loose and tight blade set-ups. What else might cause her to shake?

#2708 Gino CP Nov 24, 2006 06:08 AM

Bent main shaft.

#2709 JustPlaneChris Nov 24, 2006 06:29 AM

The blades may also be out of balance. If you have a scale with .1gram resolution you can weigh the blades. Add tape to the lighter one to bring them into balance. Mine was vibrating today, and I took it apart thinking the main shaft was bent. Turns out one of the main shaft bearings was coming apart! Gee, only about 50 flight hours and uncountable crashes, and it's coming apart? :rolleyes: -Chris

#2710 jsy nobby Nov 24, 2006 12:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Pwog I'm am able to hover steady at 4 foot range but the heli seems to vibrate a bit. Blade tracking seems good and I've tried loose and tight blade set-ups. What else might cause her to shake?

Pwog, have a look at my post on page 178,works well if you've not got scales. -Andy

#2711 TheWolfen Nov 24, 2006 06:59 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Wolfen, You may want to start him off with something gentle like a PiccoZ; as Rare and Chris have recently demonstrated, the HB can generate more excitement then your dad needs at the moment. Best wishes and happy thanksgiving He doesn't have the room for a HB and I agree - too much heli for him to start with (although a good choice for me). I got him one of these - a little 3 channel coaxial that should be easier to handle. Naturally, I got a second one for me.. err.. spare parts! :p I've got plenty of time to tune it up before Christmas. BTW - he gets out of the hospital today! :D David

#2712 TheWolfen Nov 24, 2006 07:04 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by brocja01 What kind of chargers do you guys use? I'm looking through the sites and there are so many to choose from that it is very easy to get lost. I'm looking for a charger that will grow with me to possibly the Trex LVL of electric heli. But, I also don't want to drop $80 - $150 on a charger. Any suggestions? I use the Cellpro 4s, as well. Reasonably priced, works quite well and charges the 800s just fine with the Radio Shack 3 amp 13.8V bench power supply that I already had (although I'm converting a PC power supply over for long term use). I do wish it could handle multiple packs simultaneously, but I didn't want to spend the money on one that could. David

#2713 jsy nobby Nov 24, 2006 07:14 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by TheWolfen He doesn't have the room for a HB and I agree - too much heli for him to start with (although a good choice for me). I got him one of these - a little 3 channel coaxial that should be easier to handle. Naturally, I got a second one for me.. err.. spare parts! :p I've got plenty of time to tune it up before Christmas. BTW - he gets out of the hospital today! :D David

Glad to gear your Dad is feeling better!!! the mini hybrid is kind of similar to the Syma 9092,this was my intro to R/C helis and they really are great fun and easy to fly once you get the knack of stopping the pirouettes,as for tuning? there's not much you can tweak on these little fellas!!!! I'm sure your Dad'll love his prezzie!!!! -Andy

#2714 Wren1702 Nov 24, 2006 07:22 PM

Holy cow! Honey Bee mark 3 on sale for40 more minutes at Hobby-Lobby for 40 more minutes! $106.00! http://hobby-lobby.com/thanks.htm

#2715 nickburns Nov 24, 2006 07:59 PM

Quote: Holy cow! Honey Bee mark 3 on sale for40 more minutes at Hobby-Lobby for 40 more minutes! $106.00! http://hobby-lobby.com/thanks.htm

If official, at that price from hobby-lobby I have joined the ranks of HP FP owners. I can't wait.

#2716 Wren1702 Nov 24, 2006 08:47 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by nickburns If official, at that price from hobby-lobby I have joined the ranks of HP FP owners. I can't wait.

Welcome to the crack of the R/C world...... :D :D :D :D :D You'll be addicted in no time! :p

#2717 jsy nobby Nov 24, 2006 11:15 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Wren1702 Welcome to the crack of the R/C world...... :D :D :D :D :D You'll be addicted in no time! :p

I'm not addicted.....I can stop any time I want...... well at least until my lipo's have recharged anyways!!!!

#2718 jsy nobby Nov 24, 2006 11:25 PM wren, In a previous post you mentioned not fitting the CP2 tailboom upgrade,may I ask why you found this to be a No-No? -Andy

#2719 Gino CP Nov 24, 2006 11:28 PM

Is that right. OK I challenge you not to touch that heli for a week.

#2720 Pwog Nov 25, 2006 02:46 AM

Yes Heli's are like crack In fact Im flying one right now while writing this.

#2721 mem Nov 25, 2006 05:47 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP Is that right. OK I challenge you not to touch that heli for a week. "... a week", Gino, do you need to get a better charger:) Andy said he could only keep his hands off while his batteries were getting their fix. Andy, you need more batteries :)

#2722 jsy nobby Nov 25, 2006 09:34 AM

I think if somebody took away my heli,I'd cry! it's bad enough having to wait for spares!!! :D :D :D

#2723 Gino CP Nov 25, 2006 10:41 AM

You can say that again. That's why i bought another heli. I use one when the other one is waiting for parts. Actually when I think about it, I will use parts whether I like it or not so might as well order them in bulk. I just haven't logged how long servos and 4-in-1s last with normal use. I do have motors in stock.

#2724 jsy nobby Nov 25, 2006 11:00 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP You can say that again. That's why i bought another heli. I use one when the other one is waiting for parts. Actually when I think about it, I will use parts whether I like it or not so might as well order them in bulk. I just haven't logged how long servos and 4-in-1s last with normal use. I do have motors in stock.

I also have two,one is grounded at the moment waiting for spares and the other is holding it's own just about!!! servos dont seem to last very long on 11.1 lipos and neither do tail motors....I've been flying for 2 months now and managed to fry a couple of main motors too,the 4-in1's are still going tho!(dunno for how much longer!!!!!!!!) part and parcel of R/C helicopter flying I guess....Bet the weather's nice in Manila Gino,I'ts blowing a gale here in Jersey...no flying outdoors for me today :( -Andy

#2725 jsy nobby Nov 25, 2006 11:16 AM some pics of a couple of friends and Jersey on a sunny day

3 Attachment(s) the weather is nice over here sometimes!!!

#2726 Gino CP Nov 25, 2006 11:22 AM

Oh it's RC weather here most of the year. Calm mornings and early evenings. Sunshine too. That is why my heli is on accelerated life testing hehe. I just stay away from beaches. It tends to be windy there all day.

#2727 jsy nobby Nov 25, 2006 10:02 PM

Oops,nearly forgot, welcome aboard Nick!! you don't have to be mad to own an FP,but it helps!! Hope you have a great time flying your new copter! -Andy.

#2728 nickburns Nov 25, 2006 11:02 PM

Thanks guys, I am sure I will be back with many questions. I am an RC car guy, the only flying I have done is with an aero ace bipe, we shall see how it goes

#2729 Gino CP Nov 25, 2006 11:06 PM

RC car is good experience. That gave you 2d experience. The bip gave you forward flight experience. Once yout of hovering, you should be going to ff a bit quicker. Welcome on board.

#2730 jsy nobby Nov 25, 2006 11:13 PM

12 mins of hovering...

Lo All, I just got a 12 minute hover out of 1.2 volts of battery power :cool: :D,freshly charged at 8.4v I started the timer on my watch and kept her hovering for as long as i could! I only stopped 'cos my right hand was aching , and when I checked the voltage on the battery?.....7.2 volts remaining after 12 minutes and three seconds!!! Damned good batteries if you ask me....I got them here,http://www.heliguy.com/Extras/LiPo-...ery- 800mAh-12C/ on a stock copter with a rotor head stiffener and a dry broken,timed motor...FLIPPING AMAZING!!!!!!! I just love these helis!!!!! :p :p :p

#2731 flynfrfun Nov 25, 2006 11:36 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby Lo All, I just got a 12 minute hover out of 1.2 volts of battery power :cool: :D,freshly charged at 8.4v I started the timer on my watch and kept her hovering for as long as i could! I only stopped 'cos my right hand was aching , and when I checked the voltage on the battery?.....7.2 volts remaining after 12 minutes and three seconds!!! Damned good batteries if you ask me....I got them here,http://www.heliguy.com/Extras/LiPo-...ery-800mAh-12C/ on a stock copter with a rotor head stiffener and a dry broken,timed motor...FLIPPING AMAZING!!!!!!! I just love these helis!!!!! :p :p :p

Hey man, you are pushing that battery too far :( . If it is at 7.2V resting, it is probably getting close to 6V loaded or less towards the end of the flight. This will damage your lipos pretty quick. Try to time your flights so that it is at 7.4V or above at the end of a flight. How many mah did you put back in after this flight? You should shoot to only use 75-80% of the rated capacity if you want your lipos to last any length of time. I'm sure you were just experimenting to see how much you could get out of it :D. But, the noobies on here need to know this is not a good thing to do on every flight. Flynfrfun

#2732 Gino CP Nov 25, 2006 11:57 PM hHave some main and tail motors handy.

#2733 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 12:56 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by flynfrfun Hey man, you are pushing that battery too far :( . If it is at 7.2V resting, it is probably getting close to 6V loaded or less towards the end of the flight. This will damage your lipos pretty quick. Try to time your flights so that it is at 7.4V or above at the end of a flight. How many mah did you put back in after this flight? You should shoot to only use 75-80% of the rated capacity if you want your lipos to last any length of time. I'm sure you were just experimenting to see how much you could get out of it :D. But, the noobies on here need to know this is not a good thing to do on every flight. Flynfrfun

You're right,this was an experiment! I normally stop flying when my copter starts to get sluggish,a voltage check usually shows about 7.4 after about 10 mins of flying,and if it takes an hour to fully recharge the battery on a smart charger, i'm putting back about 550mah, I have to say that i'm still a bit of a newbie myself,but am slowly coming to grips with all this kind of stuff,and if 600mah of an 800mah battery =75% then I guess my batteries are doing ok? -Andy

#2734 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 01:13 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP hHave some main and tail motors handy.

Gonna get some HB king 'super' motors and I'm trying to find some decent tailmotors that hold out on 11.1 Lipos ,any suggestions? -Andy

#2735 JustPlaneChris Nov 26, 2006 01:15 AM

Andy, if you find them it would be the Holy Grail of tail motors. My experience indicates that the best tail motors that hold out on 11.1 lipo is TWO tail motors running at the same time. -Chris

#2736 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 01:31 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Andy, if you find them it would be the Holy Grail of tail motors. My experience indicates that the best tail motors that hold out on 11.1 lipo is TWO tail motors running at the same time. -Chris

It would seem that is the case mon ami...Just that 2 motors and the ally gizmo that holds them turns my copter into a sloppy jelly!!!! :D :D :D

#2737 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 01:35 AM

Hi,my name is Andy and I'm an addict....

1 Attachment(s) :d :d :d :d :d OK...so I was fibbing a bit when I said Icould stop anytime I wanted....

#2738 JustPlaneChris Nov 26, 2006 01:39 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby It would seem that is the case mon ami...Just that 2 motors and the ally gizmo that holds them turns my copter into a sloppy jelly!!!! :D :D :D OH, you can save a few grams by ditching the ally gizmo: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...482#post6110420 That's how I do mine. Works a treat. -Chris

#2739 JustPlaneChris Nov 26, 2006 02:06 AM

Oh Andy, you're not an addict....

3 Attachment(s) Andy, you don't have it so bad. Not so bad at all..... -Chris

#2740 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 02:21 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Andy, you don't have it so bad. Not so bad at all..... -Chris

Then solace I shall take,from the knowledge that I am but smallfry in a VERY big pond.....

#2741 flynfrfun Nov 26, 2006 02:44 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby You're right,this was an experiment! I normally stop flying when my copter starts to get sluggish,a voltage check usually shows about 7.4 after about 10 mins of flying,and if it takes an hour to fully recharge the battery on a smart charger, i'm putting back about 550mah, I have to say that i'm still a bit of a newbie myself,but am slowly coming to grips with all this kind of stuff,and if 600mah of an 800mah battery =75% then I guess my batteries are doing ok? -Andy

Hi Andy, Yeah, 550-600 out of 800mah should be fine :). Just wanted to help out in case you didn't know...hate to see anyone ruin their lipos=$$$. I see you are progressing quite nicely in the addiction from your pic ;). Flynfrfun

#2742 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 03:10 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by flynfrfun Hi Andy, Yeah, 550-600 out of 800mah should be fine :). Just wanted to help out in case you didn't know...hate to see anyone ruin their lipos=$$$. I see you are progressing quite nicely in the addiction from your pic ;). Flynfrfun

Many thanks for your feedback, Upon my transition from Nickel metal hydride to Lithium polymer,I followed the teachings of Guru JPC,and well I have been taught....Like the guy said..."simple math" as you americans so aptly put it... :cool: -Andy

#2743 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 03:16 AM

Hey flyr!, just curious,what time is it in the home of the brave? I'ts 03:15 in the AM here in jersey!

#2744 flynfrfun Nov 26, 2006 03:17 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby Upon my transition from Nickel metal hydride to Lithium polymer,I followed the teachings of Guru JPC...-Andy

You're in good hands :).

#2745 flynfrfun Nov 26, 2006 03:19 AM

Andy, If you are referring to me, it's 7:18pm here in Seattle. I'm breaking in a new Thunder Power lipo at the moment :D :D . Flynfrfun

#2746 JustPlaneChris Nov 26, 2006 03:22 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby ....I followed the teachings of Guru JPC Egads, you guys will believe anything (or anybody, apparently!) :rolleyes: Thanks for the vote of confidence, but I'm still learning too. :) -Chris

#2747 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 03:24 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by flynfrfun You're in good hands :).

I hope to be able to pass on valuable Info as well as he does...

#2748 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 03:28 AM

Chris, from many an acorn great Oaks have grown.....

#2749 JustPlaneChris Nov 26, 2006 03:52 AM

Does that mean I'm a nut? -Chris

#2750 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 04:02 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Does that mean I'm a nut? -Chris

Hmmm...now there's a question! :D

#2751 Rare Bear Nov 26, 2006 04:03 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Does that mean I'm a nut? -Chris

No worries about that, Chris - I think we're all nuts for flying these heli's!! Take the compliments for what they are, though; not only are you a friendly, informative guy when it comes to these heli's, you're incredibly generous as well. Not too often I run across someone who takes their time, effort, energy & money for someone else, and the help you've given me with that head stiffener says a lot. Thanks for your kindness, Chris, and for everyone out their in FP land, this is the guy who know's it all, and is willing to go an extra 3 miles when it comes to help & advice!! :) Take a bow, my friend! :D God bless you - "Rare"

#2752 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 04:09 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear No worries about that, Chris - I think we're all nuts for flying these heli's!! Take the compliments for what they are, though; not only are you a friendly, informative guy when it comes to these heli's, you're incredibly generous as well. Not too often I run across someone who takes their time, effort, energy & money for someone else, and the help you've given me with that head stiffener says a lot. Thanks for your kindness, Chris, and for everyone out their in FP land, this is the guy who know's it all, and is willing to go an extra 3 miles when it comes to help & advice!! :) Take a bow, my friend! :D God bless you - "Rare"

Rare Bear, the nail has well and truly been hit on the head!!! I could'nt agree more.... :)

#2753 Wren1702 Nov 26, 2006 04:14 AM

1 Attachment(s) Chris, your pic "made" my son drag our planes out and take one of our small fleet. Not in the pic is a 60 size stick with FS-91 and and a 40 size stick with an OS FX-46.

#2754 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 04:20 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Wren1702 Chris, your pic "made" my son drag our planes out and take one of our small fleet. Not in the pic is a 60 size stick with FS-91 and and a 40 size stick with an OS FX-46.

Wren, you started this thread,I hope you're very proud of what you did!!! you've brought people from all over the globe who are passionate about modelling together...brag a little bit more...you earned it!!!! :D :D :D

#2755 Wren1702 Nov 26, 2006 04:32 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby Wren, you started this thread,I hope you're very proud of what you did!!! you've brought people from all over the globe who are passionate about modelling together...brag a little bit more...you earned it!!!! :D :D :D

You know, when I started this thread I thought it *****may****** go 3 pages or so...... guess I was wrong! :D :p I still think that this heli is the best way to start out! My brother started out with a Raptor 30 V1 and got rid of it after a short period of time. After he's watched me fly my HB II and progress uo to a collective pitch he ordered a HB III a few weeks ago. :) I suspect that he'll be moving up to a cp heli next year.

#2756 m4rs Nov 26, 2006 04:42 AM

Im lovin mine still. The can motor is still going strong! I think I have decided what to do with the 3800kv outrunner I bought for it. Im going to put it in a ducted fan as its not needed in a HB! These heli's seems to do quite well as they are when they arrive in box. I wish everything in rc was like that! Mark

#2757 Gino CP Nov 26, 2006 04:46 AM

Now I want a Honeybee FP too. I have a new CP2 after my CP but I still like the everyday low maintenance flying ability of the FP.

#2758 cameroon Nov 26, 2006 04:48 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Wren1702 You know, when I started this thread I thought it *****may****** go 3 pages or so...... guess I was wrong! :D :p

This thread has 90,000+ views which is like the 3rd most of all the threads in the micro forum..... it may well be the definitive repository of Honeybee FP lore on the 'net :) I admit to skipping a lot of information in the middle. I skip back to it on slow days at work ;)

#2759 Rare Bear Nov 26, 2006 04:52 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by m4rs Im lovin mine still. The can motor is still going strong! I think I have decided what to do with the 3800kv outrunner I bought for it. Im going to put it in a ducted fan as its not needed in a HB! These heli's seems to do quite well as they are when they arrive in box. I wish everything in rc was like that! Mark

Amen to that - this heli flies great out of the box, and aside from a CP2 battery tray and a 2S 850mah LiPo, I'm leaving this heli stock, stock, stock!! I just got my FP back in the air after being grounded for a weerk - ugly crash that destoryed my poor FP. :( Now, after a barebones rebuild, it's flying beautifully, and I'm one happy guy!! This heli is a blast - just love how smooth, quiet & graceful it is - can't wait for another wind-free day!! :D God bless - "Rare"

#2760 Rare Bear Nov 26, 2006 04:55 AM

My apologies for a double post, but I saw some GWS blades via Tower hobbies for under $10.00, and there were 6 blades in the kit - think this is a better buy than the stock pair that cost near $10.00 for 2? If I have to buy more blades, I would like to go this route if they're any good. :) God bless - "Rare"

#2761 nickburns Nov 26, 2006 05:09 AM

Quote: My apologies for a double post, but I saw some GWS blades via Tower hobbies for under $10.00, and there were 6 blades in the kit - think this is a better buy than the stock pair that cost near $10.00 for 2? If I have to buy more blades, I would like to go this route if they're any good. God bless - "Rare"

Link Rare Bear? Not to discount any information by any member, after 12 years in IT and my on/off love affair with RC, I have never seen anyone contribute to a public (no reward) forum as JustPlaneChris.

#2762 JustPlaneChris Nov 26, 2006 05:18 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear Thanks for your kindness, Chris, and for everyone out their in FP land, this is the guy who know's it all, and is willing to go an extra 3 miles when it comes to help & advice!! :) Take a bow, my friend! :D Okay, Okay. I accept your thanks then, if you'll stop embarassing me. ;) *BOW* -Chris

#2763 Rare Bear Nov 26, 2006 05:20 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by nickburns Link Rare Bear?

(6) grayblades - $7.29 Link: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXKZY4&P=Z God bless - "Rare"

#2764 Rare Bear Nov 26, 2006 05:21 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Okay, Okay. I accept your thanks then, if you'll stop embarassing me. ;) *BOW* -Chris

Alright!! :D God bless - "Rare"

#2765 JustPlaneChris Nov 26, 2006 05:22 AM

Rare, I just picked up a package of those a few weeks ago and have been flying them for about a dozen flights now. They seem to be pretty good blades, though they are a bit more flexible than the stock ones, and mine took a bit of bending to get the tracking spot-on. For the price, I'd say they are quite a bargain! -Chris

#2766 flynfrfun Nov 26, 2006 05:54 AM

I like the grey blades. They increase the headspeed a little so it seems more stable in a hover to me. But due to the flexability, if you push it into a full power FFF, it does some weird nose over or nose up maneuvers :eek:. I think I remember the stock blades doing this too. But, they work fine for normal FFF and anything else you can throw at this heli. Mine have tracked well after bending them into shape for the first 10 or 15 flights. Actually, the second pair tracked perfect out of the package. They all weighed exactly the same down to .1g so balance is good. Probably the biggest plus is that they are easy to see in flight. Flynfrfun

#2767 Rare Bear Nov 26, 2006 08:38 AM

I'm pretty sure this isn't necessary, but I used some silicon shock oil from one of my older RC trucks, and I applied it to the main gear & tail rotor gear, which made my little Honeybee quite quiet! It "feels" smoother, and I love how stealthy it sounds - just an awesome little bird! I figure the silicon oil can do no harm, so what the heck, right? Give it a try! :) God bless - "Rare"

#2768 Gino CP Nov 26, 2006 09:26 AM

I wish somebody comes up with CP blades as light and strong as FP blades. With a mild curve, I think it is possible. I was pretty amazed with my friend's FP. Crash after crash, he just folds it back in place.

#2769 Rare Bear Nov 26, 2006 09:45 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP I wish somebody comes up with CP blades as light and strong as FP blades. With a mild curve, I think it is possible. I was pretty amazed with my friend's FP. Crash after crash, he just folds it back in place.

You could always try Plastic Blades for a CP heli - works great for heli's like the BCP & CP2. But, there's always a weak link - tail boom, main shaft, main gear, and other such things. I think what saves us is the low rotor r.p.m. on these FP heli's - they just don't spin very fast, and the blades fold quite easily, too. But, they can break! I busted mine up real nice, although it took a 30' fall to do it!! You're right, though; I watched my buddy crash his FP again & again, and all he did was straighten out the blades & fly again. Did it fly as smooth as my new FP? No, but it flew, and it held up really nice! :D God bless - "Rare"

#2770 Gino CP Nov 26, 2006 11:11 AM

Current plastic blades for CP is no good with stock the stock motor. heli just feels burdened by the weight.

#2771 TooTall Nov 26, 2006 12:54 PM

2 Attachment(s) Well gentlemen I have joined the ranks of the HB II FP owners...I have been flying a Trex and a Hummingbird 3D Pro for sometime now ..I aquired the HB II barebones and had enough stuff to get her airborne ...I did the up front battery mod. , thanks to the thread , and made a tray for my electronics ...Setup is - 2 HS 55's / hummingboard mixer (green, an original one) / FMA M5 receiver with M- 72 antenna / century piezo gyro / TP 2s 860 lipos ....I had forgotten what it was like to fly a FP heli and how you have to stay with it most times ...this little heli is alot of fun ..going to go scale with this one ...My biggest problem as of now is I don't have the tail authority turning to the right that I do to the left ...I am running the stock tail motor , so maybe I will try a DD and see how it does ...Tom -forgot to mention my AUW is 8.6 ounces naked and 9 ounces with the canopy .

#2772 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 01:19 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP Now I want a Honeybee FP too. I have a new CP2 after my CP but I still like the everyday low maintenance flying ability of the FP.

You mean you ain't got one?????? :confused: :confused: :confused: Gino you're missing out on soooo much fun!!!!!

#2773 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 02:25 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear I'm pretty sure this isn't necessary, but I used some silicon shock oil from one of my older RC trucks, and I applied it to the main gear & tail rotor gear, which made my little Honeybee quite quiet! It "feels" smoother, and I love how stealthy it sounds - just an awesome little bird! I figure the silicon oil can do no harm, so what the heck, right? Give it a try! :) God bless - "Rare"

Rare, I tried this with some motorcycle chain lube(it does'nt fly off when spinning around on gears) and yes,it did make my heli a lot quieter,I also found that dirt particles start to stick to the gears as well and over time compress themselves into the teeth,thus causing premature wear of both pinion and main gear,If I were you, I'd clean off the lube and leave it noisy!!!!! :D :D :D -Andy

#2774 lovespicyfood Nov 26, 2006 04:58 PM

Hello Everyone, It looks like my brother/sister are buying me one of these for my bday, $89 RTF from xheli.com is too good of a deal to pass up! :D I'm going to order the inexpensive 6 blade pack from the link rare bear posted. Besides blades, what other spare parts should I have on hand? I was planning on ordering these parts from bphobbies since they seem to have a good reputation and fair prices. How shall I break in the motors? Thanks in advance for your help! Many many years ago I had a nitro GMP Cricket. It was fixed pitch w/ no gyro and I was barely able to hover it. I'm looking forward to see how I do on this machine. I've been flying all sorts of planes (some 3D) the past year so I'm hoping that speeds my learning curve. Bottom line, it'll be fun to be able to get some stick time IN the house!

#2775 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 05:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by lovespicyfood Hello Everyone, It looks like my brother/sister are buying me one of these for my bday, $89 RTF from xheli.com is too good of a deal to pass up! :D I'm going to order the inexpensive 6 blade pack from the link rare bear posted. Besides blades, what other spare parts should I have on hand? I was planning on ordering these parts from bphobbies since they seem to have a good reputation and fair prices. How shall I break in the motors? Thanks in advance for your help! Many many years ago I had a nitro GMP Cricket. It was fixed pitch w/ no gyro and I was barely able to hover it. I'm looking forward to see how I do on this machine. I've been flying all sorts of planes (some 3D) the past year so I'm hoping that speeds my learning curve. Bottom line, it'll be fun to be able to get some stick time IN the house!

Hi and welcome! Would recommend the following- main drive gears,motors, main shafts,landing skids,fly bars,ring links(both sizes),paddle control plate,swash plate and a set of training skids are a must....these are just a few of the things I've broken reaching the dizzy heights!!! water break in works well as does timing your motors...Happy hovering!!!! -Andy

#2776 JustPlaneChris Nov 26, 2006 05:34 PM

Welcome to the madness! :) I find that the main blades rarely break on the FP. In fact, the only reason I've had to replace a main blade was from hitting a wrought iron plant stand with a blade. :rolleyes: The most commonly broken items are: • Flybar • Paddle Control Frame • Landing Skids (for some folks more than others... ;) )

You will also want to pick up a main motor heat sink and a tail motor heat sink. Since you've got some heli experience, you may or may not want to get a set of training gear. Since I too had a GMP heli back in the 80's (Cobra .50) I didn't use training gear when I started re-learning to fly helis back in June. If you plan to switch to Lipo batteries, you may also want to pick up a CP2 battery hangar set which allows the lightweight 2 cell Lipo pack to be mounted far enough forward to get the CG right. The water break-in method works well, and re-timing the stock motor makes it run cooler and make more power too. And finally, don't forget to do the fuse mod to protect your 4-in-1 from damage! -Chris EDIT: I see jsy nobby beat me to it. Oh well. :p

#2777 mem Nov 26, 2006 05:37 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby Would recommend the following- main drive gears,motors, main shafts,landing skids,fly bars,ring links(both sizes),paddle control plate,swash plate and a set of training skids are a must-Andy Thats a good list, but consider that if you add up all that stuff you are approaching the $41 price of a barebone airframe that includes every component on the FP excepting the electronics. If you want to throw the FP around then the best value for spare parts is the barebones.

#2778 gfdengine204 Nov 26, 2006 06:01 PM

1st post on this group, just ordered my HB FP2 (I believe it said MK4?) from www.xheli.com, was happy with the price @ $89.95. Also ordered the sim for my PC, would much rather crash on that than IRL. Just as I read thru this forum, though, I am curious; I have zero experience building/repairing/etc (this is my first R/C aircraft). Am I going to have problems when I need to replace something? Or is it fairly straightforward? Otherwise, just thought I would say hello; I look forward to getting my heli and working on attaining some proficiency.

#2779 mem Nov 26, 2006 06:25 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 I have zero experience building/repairing/etc (this is my first R/C aircraft). Am I going to have problems when I need to replace something? Or is it fairly straightforward? Welcome gfdengine204 It can seem daunting at first but there is plenty of information and support on the forums to help you along. With practice its not at all difficult. Think of repairing your heli as part of the fun of this hobby.

#2780 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 06:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Thats a good list, but consider that if you add up all that stuff you are approaching the $41 price of a barebone airframe that includes every component on the FP excepting the electronics. If you want to throw the FP around then the best value for spare parts is the barebones.

Good point mem,but then again,if you only break a couple of things then you're left with a load of bits you might not ever use.....so far I've not managed to break an airframe or a tailboom,tailmotor housing,tail rotor drive gear,tail rotor,main rotors...... at the end of the day I guess it depends on what gets broken!!!

#2781 lovespicyfood Nov 26, 2006 06:33 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Welcome to the madness! :) I find that the main blades rarely break on the FP. In fact, the only reason I've had to replace a main blade was from hitting a wrought iron plant stand with a blade. :rolleyes: The most commonly broken items are:

• Flybar • Paddle Control Frame • Landing Skids (for some folks more than others... ;) )

WOW, thanks for all the replies EVERYONE! I definitely plan on upgrading to lipos since that's what I run in my planes and already have the whole charging setup. I do have two of these in my inventory, would they work? Or are they too heavy at 63.2 grams? http://www.allerc.com/product_info.php?products_id=1974 Also, could you point me to the right links for water break in and timing. Once again, THANK YOU for all the help! When I get the 'copter in a couple of weeks I should have everything I need to get it going properly!

#2782 mem Nov 26, 2006 06:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby Good point mem,but then again,if you only break a couple of things then you're left with a load of bits you might not ever use.....so far I've not managed to break an airframe or a tailboom,tailmotor housing,tail rotor drive gear,tail rotor,main rotors...... at the end of the day I guess it depends on what gets broken!!!

Andy, I have to admit that I have been lucky and have not needed to raid my barebones for any parts. But it served its purpose building my confidence knowing that if I did break something I would not have any downtime. And as of this weekend it has been converted into a CP so it was not a wasted investment :)

#2783 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 26, 2006 07:13 PM

A bare bones kit is never a wasted investment just because you haven't broken any parts yet it just means when it does happen it will all happen at once. Trust me I know I just rebuilt my FP two days ago [tail boom upper link rotor head paddle frame] and the list goes on. I was lucky I had all the spares and keep them in stock as I just gave my barebones FP to my son in law on thanksgiving of coarse it was a flying heli out of the spare electronics I collected its amazing what you collect in this hobby. My fp never flew better than after the rebuild. Keep them flying and have fun as JPC will tell you the best upgrade is a good radio.

#2784 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 07:20 PM

1 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by lovespicyfood WOW, thanks for all the replies EVERYONE! I definitely plan on upgrading to lipos since that's what I run in my planes and already have the whole charging setup. I do have two of these in my inventory, would they work? Or are they too heavy at 63.2 grams? http://www.allerc.com/product_info.php?products_id=1974 Also, could you point me to the right links for water break in and timing. Once again, THANK YOU for all the help! When I get the 'copter in a couple of weeks I should have everything I need to get it going properly!

I'm no expert but I'd say the discharge rate on those batteries of yours might just fry a thing or two....water break in is easy,just wire up two 1.5 volt batteries in series,hook them up to the motor and plonk it in a glass of water for five-six minutes,Dry it out with a hairdryer and put a drop of machine oil on its bearings,if you ask JustPlaneChris nicely he'll probably post the link so you can re-time your motor(i don't know where to find it in this HUGE thread!!) :D

#2785 mem Nov 26, 2006 07:29 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby I'm no expert but I'd say the discharge rate on those batteries of yours might just fry a thing or two The battery is a little too heavy but the discharge rate should not be a problem.

#2786 lovespicyfood Nov 26, 2006 07:47 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby I'm no expert but I'd say the discharge rate on those batteries of yours might just fry a thing or two....water break in is easy,just wire up two 1.5 volt batteries in series,hook them up to the motor and plonk it in a glass of water for five-six minutes,Dry it out with a hairdryer and put a drop of machine oil on its bearings,if you ask JustPlaneChris nicely he'll probably post the link so you can re-time your motor(i don't know where to find it in this HUGE thread!!) :D

Thanks for the info on the water break-in! Does the two AA cells apply for the tail rotor motor also?

#2787 lovespicyfood Nov 26, 2006 07:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem The battery is a little too heavy but the discharge rate should not be a problem.

Thanks Mem, guess I better buy a couple 800mah lipos.

#2788 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 07:59 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by lovespicyfood Thanks for the info on the water break-in! Does the two AA cells apply for the tail rotor motor also?

I will bow to anyone's greater knowledge on this one....Anybody ever wet broken a stock tail motor? I don't think they have carbon brushes,just metal contacts? :confused: :confused:

#2789 mem Nov 26, 2006 08:01 PM

Spicy, she should fly with your existing batteries but I think you will be much happier with 8c or 10c 800ma packs. I don't think its practical or necessary to break in the tail motor.

#2790 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 26, 2006 08:02 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by lovespicyfood Thanks Mem, guess I better buy a couple 800mah lipos. The lighter you can keep a FP the better it flies but thats not to say a little heavier battery won't work I fly mine with common sense 1250mAh 7.4 at some points if thats what I have charged or am charging my 7.4 800mAh packs it still flies real well just feels a little heavy.

#2791 JustPlaneChris Nov 26, 2006 08:03 PM water break in and timing

There are a couple of links on in this post that explain both the timing advance and water break-in methods. Actually, they kindof branch out in links from there, but it's worth exploring. Both are worthwhile things to do, IMO. I do not break in my tail motors. -Chris

#2792 JustPlaneChris Nov 26, 2006 08:09 PM

Battery ratings and current draw

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby I'm no expert but I'd say the discharge rate on those batteries of yours might just fry a thing or two. Actually that seems to be a common misconception! The discharge or "C" rating just means the batteries are capable of being discharged at that rate. It doesn't mean it will automatically pump that much current into your power system when you use them. The power system in the Honey Bee is only capable of consuming between 4 and 5 amps at full power. As such, you need a battery that has the ability to handle that current draw. In reality, a higher C-rated battery is better since it won't have to work as hard (and will therefore run cooler and last longer) compared to a lower C-rated pack. Clear as mud, right? :) -Chris

#2793 Pwog Nov 26, 2006 08:12 PM

Timing clarification

Hey Chris I tried to advance the timing but it does not want to turn. I put my snap ring pliers in the holes in the back (end with wire leads) of the motor but it doesn't want to spin. I didn't want to put too much torque on it. Am i missing a step?

#2794 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 08:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 1st post on this group, just ordered my HB FP2 (I believe it said MK4?) from www.xheli.com, was happy with the price @ $89.95. Also ordered the sim for my PC, would much rather crash on that than IRL. Just as I read thru this forum, though, I am curious; I have zero experience building/repairing/etc (this is my first R/C aircraft). Am I going to have problems when I need to replace something? Or is it fairly straightforward? Otherwise, just thought I would say hello; I look forward to getting my heli and working on attaining some proficiency.

Hi, Your new copter will(should!) arrive with an exploded diagram of what goes where and the relevant part numbers,I'm afraid I'm one of those people who love to take things apart and see how they work, and that's exactly what I did the first night I got my heli.It took about two hours to totally strip and rebuild ,going back to that diagram?....it stayed in the box!!! To me,fixing these little helis could'nt be any easier...and if there's anything you need to know,come back to these forums and find out :D

#2795 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 08:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Pwog Hey Chris I tried to advance the timing but it does not want to turn. I put my snap ring pliers in the holes in the back (end with wire leads) of the motor but it doesn't want to spin. I didn't want to put too much torque on it. Am i missing a step?

Think you need to loosen off the crimps a bit more,once you've done that it should turn quite easily....make sure you've un-soldered the little brown gizmos(dunno what they're called!!) from the can too....

#2796 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 08:29 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Actually that seems to be a common misconception! The discharge or "C" rating just means the batteries are capable of being discharged at that rate. It doesn't mean it will automatically pump that much current into your power system when you use them. The power system in the Honey Bee is only capable of consuming between 4 and 5 amps at full power. As such, you need a battery that has the ability to handle that current draw. In reality, a higher C-rated battery is better since it won't have to work as hard (and will therefore run cooler and last longer) compared to a lower C-rated pack. Clear as mud, right? :) -Chris

Once again,I see your logic Obi-Wan..... :D erm...when do we start quantum physics?

#2797 JustPlaneChris Nov 26, 2006 08:40 PM

As jsy nobby said, don't forget to unsolder the capacitors. I didn't actually loosen the crimps, I just gave it some muscle. You won't hurt it, there's nothing except friction and those little tabs in the can that keep the endbell from rotating. Remember: If force hasn't worked, sufficient force has not yet been applied. :D That is related to (and often followed by): If it won't fit, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway. :rolleyes: ;) -Chris

#2798 m4rs Nov 26, 2006 08:57 PM

So whats with the head mod I see in some photos?

#2799 m4rs Nov 26, 2006 09:06 PM

N/m

#2800 jsy nobby Nov 26, 2006 09:20 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by m4rs So whats with the head mod I see in some photos?

Aha!!! you'd be referring to the stiffener? it inhibits rotor blade 'coning'...helps generate more lift and stops your heli pitching up during forward flight. -Andy

#2801 m4rs Nov 26, 2006 09:36 PM

Thanks!

#2802 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 26, 2006 09:46 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby Aha!!! you'd be referring to the stiffener? it inhibits rotor blade 'coning'...helps generate more lift and stops your heli pitching up during forward flight. -Andy It also stops the death wobble that these helis often suffer from because the blades can't swing out enough to set themselves thats why you run threw bolts so you can run your blades semi loose then they will find there own track.

#2803 gfdengine204 Nov 27, 2006 01:29 AM

Thanks for the warm welcome and good advice. Can't wait to get my heli and start learning! :)

#2804 crazhorse Nov 27, 2006 04:19 AM well I have been trying out M24 blades, not having much luck with stock motors and several different pinions...... just not enough power at all, would get up about 3 ft and not climb at all. Dug around in my spares box and got one of my johnson 250 motors, have had them forever when they got popular for hummingbird motors. IIRC they could be found dirt cheap less than $1 each. Much better than the stock motors (have several blade cp motors ) but still could use more climbout. The j250's are a PITA to mount as well seeing how they werent meant to be used on helicopters. Guess I'll have to order a graupner speed 300 6v with a 10t pinion since it seemed to work for somebody way back in this thread.

#2805 EchoSix Nov 27, 2006 07:15 AM

First mod to my HB FP2

3 Attachment(s) Well I finished my first mod to my HB FP2. I added a CF battery extension and placed the 4 in 1 unit underneath. The blade CX battery fit nicely on top. Only thing im not sure about is if the battery is too close to the motor? I can place something between the two, but after the first flight the motor wasn't hot. CG is the slightest forward with the battery attached. EchoSix

#2806 terencechan Nov 27, 2006 10:21 AM

Straw Antenna?

Neat work, Echo Six. I figured that you can use the "Stirer" from starbucks coffee as the aerial holder. It's quite close to those plastic tube that you can find in RC shops. Here's my revamped heli, pretty much stock config but using 11T pinion. Some say it's HB FP2 with Nikko SkyWatcher Canopy and fin but I'll call it my Nikko SkyWatcher with E-Sky mechanics. The canopy and fin comes from a genuine nikko toy heli that I had modified --> see link The modification pays off but it doesn't fly as good as it is now with the FP2 barebones. Compare with this Video --> Link

#2807 terencechan Nov 27, 2006 10:23 AM

E-Sky or Nikko?

4 Attachment(s) here are the photos, Terence

#2808 jsy nobby Nov 27, 2006 05:47 PM

1 Attachment(s) Hey Rare Bear, with regards to my post on page 185,just out of curiosity,I removed the main gear from my grounded copter last night and gave it's teeth a good scrubbing with an old toothbrush(I know,oral hygene for helis!),the water wasn't a pretty colour once I'd done scrubbing! I then put the gear on my non-grounded machine and span it up,believe it not,it sounded a lot quieter after a good clean! As an afterthought,I figured you might like to see what happens when Lubricants and dirt get turned into grinding paste.... Regards-Andy

#2809 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 27, 2006 05:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby Hey Rare Bear, with regards to my post on page 185,just out of curiosity,I removed the main gear from my grounded copter last night and gave it's teeth a good scrubbing with an old toothbrush(I know,oral hygene for helis!),the water wasn't a pretty colour once I'd done scrubbing! I then put the gear on my non-grounded machine and span it up,believe it not,it sounded a lot quieter after a good clean! Regards-Andy

You probably got the mesh set just right and clean does help I am sure.

#2810 SlowAero Nov 27, 2006 09:33 PM

Counter-clockwise dilemma - Please help if you can. I am still having problems with my HB FP spinning out of control counter-clockwise when I add power. Replaced tail motor twice, replaced main motor, dissembled main shaft, checked everything. Do the 4 in 1s just loose their brains after awhile? Thanks in advance for your ideas/suggestions. SA

#2811 jsy nobby Nov 27, 2006 09:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by SlowAero Counter-clockwise dilemma - Please help if you can. I am still having problems with my HB FP spinning out of control counter-clockwise when I add power. Replaced tail motor twice, replaced main motor, dissembled main shaft, checked everything. Do the 4 in 1s just loose their brains after awhile? Thanks in advance for your ideas/suggestions. SA try turning down the gain on the 4-in1 if you've not already done so....sounds like your gyro is over correcting a little too much,It might be an idea to check that the tail rotor shaft bearings are ok,they'll slow the rotor down if they're binding... Hope this helps! -Andy

#2812 brocja01 Nov 27, 2006 09:58 PM

Also check the very obvious (it got me once) that you have the tail motor plugged into the 4 in 1 in the correct channel. Did that myself, plugged the tail motor into the main rotor channel, couldn't figure out why it spun like crazy the more throttle I gave it.

#2813 gfdengine204 Nov 27, 2006 10:00 PM

OK a newbie question for ya'all: when I get my HB, and remembering this is my first Heli, is there any need for me to strip it down to learn what all the parts are? I have seen that recommended in a couple of places online, but am worried about taking my first bird apart. Just curious if I should be worrying about that right away, or whether I should be concentrating on learning to fly it.

#2814 mem Nov 27, 2006 10:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 .. is there any need for me to strip it down to learn what all the parts are? I think some people are flyers and tinker when they need to; some are tinkerers and fly to test out their tinkering. If you are not looking forward to taking your heli apart then just go ahead and fly. You will need to learn how to do repairs at some point but there is no rule that you have to get your engineering qualifications before you can fly :)

#2815 Wren1702 Nov 27, 2006 11:29 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem I think some people are flyers and tinker when they need to; some are tinkerers and fly to test out their tinkering.

That just has to be the quote of the year for me! :D :D :D :D

#2816 gfdengine204 Nov 27, 2006 11:40 PM

Well, I generally don't think of myself as a tinkerer (if that is even a word), though I also didnt think myself handy til my wife pointed out that I did most of the work this past summer when we finished our basement....LOL I think I will go the "flyer and tinker when I need to" route to start.....but who knows what this will bring.... :)

#2817 jsy nobby Nov 27, 2006 11:59 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 Well, I generally don't think of myself as a tinkerer (if that is even a word), though I also didnt think myself handy til my wife pointed out that I did most of the work this past summer when we finished our basement....LOL I think I will go the "flyer and tinker when I need to" route to start.....but who knows what this will bring.... :) probably hair loss,frayed nerves,late nights and early mornings and erm...lots of necessary tinkering when you've pranged your new chopper into things you shouldn't!!!! :p :p :D :D

#2818 jsy nobby Nov 28, 2006 12:53 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem I think some people are flyers and tinker when they need to; some are tinkerers and fly to test out their tinkering. If you are not looking forward to taking your heli apart then just go ahead and fly. You will need to learn how to do repairs at some point but there is no rule that you have to get your engineering qualifications before you can fly :)

Mem, methinks that herein lies my problem....I was/am still an engineer before I started flying helis.I'm still very much a newbie,until yesterday I did'nt know that the little brown things on the motors are capacitors!!! :eek: But that's just me...I like to know what I'm up against,I guess I'm a "tinker and fly" kind of guy :) :) :) -Andy

#2819 Rare Bear Nov 28, 2006 01:46 AM

Thanks, Andy - I'll be sure to stay away from the lubricants. In truth, I just put a few drops on the main gear - nothing big. This heli makes noise no matter what - I just like them when they're quiet!! :) God bless - "Rare"

#2820 scarter2 Nov 28, 2006 03:35 AM

I get my HB in tomorrow and its my first heli. Does anyone have any tips or warnings for me?

#2821 terencechan Nov 28, 2006 04:47 AM

Tips

Quote: Originally Posted by scarter2 I get my HB in tomorrow and its my first heli. Does anyone have any tips or warnings for me?

Hi mate, first of all, you might want to understand your heli better. 1. It will turn to the left when you throttle up. 2. It will slide across the floor to the left. 3. It doesn't take off vertically. So learning to take off vertically and then be able to hold a tail-in hover will be your goal. Here's how you can reach there. 1. Learn to 'hold' the tail (keeping it facing you all the time) 2. Learn to compensate right to prevent the heli from sliding on the floor. The learning curve will be similar to a child learning how to cycle a bicycle. Try to keep the heli in one spot, about 60cm above the ground to minimise damage when you crash. It takes about 1 week to master hovering steadily at your eye level, so you gotta be patient in order to be in control of your heli. Upgrading the battery. 1. You may wanna upgrade the Nickel Metal Hydride pack with a 2-Cell Lithium Polymer pack. 2. You may wanna change the motor pinion to 11T so that your heli can climb out of GE at 65% throttle. This position will be more comfy for a beginner's thumb or finger. Happy Flying, Terence. :)

#2822 scarter2 Nov 28, 2006 06:46 AM

Thanks for all of the help Terence. I will read over that again tomorrow before I fly and then post the results.

#2823 lovespicyfood Nov 28, 2006 06:58 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by terencechan Hi mate, first of all, you might want to understand your heli better. 1. It will turn to the left when you throttle up. 2. It will slide across the floor to the left. 3. It doesn't take off vertically. So learning to take off vertically and then be able to hold a tail-in hover will be your goal. Here's how you can reach there. 1. Learn to 'hold' the tail (keeping it facing you all the time) 2. Learn to compensate right to prevent the heli from sliding on the floor. The learning curve will be similar to a child learning how to cycle a bicycle. Try to keep the heli in one spot, about 60cm above the ground to minimise damage when you crash. It takes about 1 week to master hovering steadily at your eye level, so you gotta be patient in order to be in control of your heli. Upgrading the battery. 1. You may wanna upgrade the Nickel Metal Hydride pack with a 2-Cell Lithium Polymer pack. 2. You may wanna change the motor pinion to 11T so that your heli can climb out of GE at 65% throttle. This position will be more comfy for a beginner's thumb or finger. Happy Flying, Terence. :)

Good stuff Terence, thank you! Any link for that 11T pinion? It uses a GWS370 motor, right? Thanks!

#2824 TooTall Nov 28, 2006 07:14 AM

[QUOTE=gfdengine204]OK a newbie question for ya'all: when I get my HB, and remembering this is my first Heli, is there any need for me to strip it down to learn what all the parts are? I have seen that recommended in a couple of places online, but am worried about taking my first bird apart. Just curious if I should be worrying about that right away, or whether I should be concentrating on learning to fly it.[/QUOTE when you purchase some ARF's you should do some tinkering (word , I believe all forms of it is) just to make sure whomever assembled it done it properly...some very good post after yours about flying and tinkering ...only us addicted/crazy ass people would know for sure ...Tom

#2825 mem Nov 28, 2006 08:57 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by scarter2 I get my HB in tomorrow and its my first heli. Does anyone have any tips or warnings for me? scarter2, alongside Terence’s excellent advice, you may want to look into Radd’s school of rotary flight.

#2826 terencechan Nov 28, 2006 09:27 AM

The ONE THING beginner should tinker

Quote: Originally Posted by lovespicyfood Good stuff Terence, thank you! Any link for that 11T pinion? It uses a GWS370 motor, right? Thanks!

You can get the pinion from http://www.helidirect.com/index.php?cPath=78 Yup, the stock motor is 370, the shaft diameter should be 2mm but the 2.3mm 11T pinion works fine as it comes with the "bore" to tighten the pinion to the shaft. GWSem350 flys great with 10T & 7.4v Lipo; you can get your heli out of G.E with only 50% throttle. BUT they get 'toasted' pretty easy even with heat sinks on. The most annoying part is when they get toasted, the backspike current from the motor fry our precious 4-in-1 unit. Speaking of tinkering, I guess a beginner should disjoint the red wire from the main motor '+' lead to install a 5amp mini-blade fuse. These little fuses save my 4-in-1 when the GWSem350 attempts to fry the 4-in-1 when it gets 'toasted'. I'm sticking with the stock 370 for good after replacing 2 GWS em350 and 2 fuses. And with 11T, I'm happy with the headspeed that the 7.4v Lipo can offer. 60-70% throttle for your heli to climb up to eye level is not too bad. It runs a lot cooler so there's no danger of breaking the 5amp fuse :) Terence

#2827 mem Nov 28, 2006 09:35 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 Well, I generally don't think of myself as a tinkerer (if that is even a word)

Tinker Noun: a person who enjoys fixing and experimenting with machines and their parts. Verb: do random, unplanned work or activities or spend time idly The first definition was intended, although my wife thinks the second fits even better :)

#2828 gfdengine204 Nov 28, 2006 06:23 PM

I would be willing to bet our wives would get along well, then! :)

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Tinker Noun: a person who enjoys fixing and experimenting with machines and their parts. Verb: do random, unplanned work or activities or spend time idly The first definition was intended, although my wife thinks the second fits even better :)

#2829 dwelch Nov 28, 2006 06:52 PM

10T to 11T

Terrence, I've got the stock FP2 (w/ 7.5A fuse), and I'm trying to understand what the change from 10T to 11T will accomplish.

Quote: I'm sticking with the stock 370 for good after replacing 2 GWS em350 and 2 fuses. And with 11T, I'm happy with the headspeed that the 7.4v Lipo can offer. 60-70% throttle for your heli to climb up to eye level is not too bad. It runs a lot cooler so there's no danger of breaking the 5amp fuse

I've been trying to think it though, and seems to mee that the motor would runn faster for the same amount of lift, therefore the throttle stick would need to to be pushed further before liftoff? Is this true? Are there any other changes to be noted? If you don't modify the blades so they have less lift, then ultimately, the headspeed would be as before (10T) for a given hover height? Just trying to understand before I change mine and my fathers. Thanks, David

#2830 ritzheli Nov 28, 2006 08:00 PM

Motor Pinion

Hello dwelch, For the given headspeed w/10t pinion the 'throttle position', might be 55% on Tx to get to eye level hover. With the 11t pinion in place and the same headspeed, the extra tooth allows the motor to 'slow down' for same throttle position on Tx, to get the same headspeed as before(on the 10t pinion). The motor is spinning the main gear one tooth faster for the same throttle position. ;) Clear as mud right? :confused: Just think of the teeth count and do simple math for given RPMs to see what I mean. :) Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying

#2831 jsy nobby Nov 28, 2006 11:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by ritzheli Hello dwelch, For the given headspeed w/10t pinion the 'throttle position', might be 55% on Tx to get to eye level hover. With the 11t pinion in place and the same headspeed, the extra tooth allows the motor to 'slow down' for same throttle position on Tx, to get the same headspeed as before(on the 10t pinion). The motor is spinning the main gear one tooth faster for the same throttle position. ;) Clear as mud right? :confused: Just think of the teeth count and do simple math for given RPMs to see what I mean. :) Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying

Kind of like the gears on a bicycle,except on a heli,the small gear is doing all the work,rather than the big one you'd be pushing round with your legs....on a bigger gear,IE more teeth,it's easier to pedal right? so you get going and drop her down a cog,you gotta pedal a bit harder but the bike goes faster,what you have to bear in mind is that a helicopter has only one gear ratio,and that little pinion on that motor spindle are in effect,your legs,so your motor may need to push a little harder to get the wheels turning,but when it's reached an altitude,say eye level and you back off the throttle a little, it's just like you climbing a hill on your bike then not having to pedal so hard when you get to the flat ground,Basically, more teeth means less effort for the same result....if you were driving a "stick shift"???(we call them manual) you'd not be able to pull off in fifth gear, but if you pushed it with a truck and got it going a bit,you can cruise quite happily without having your foot to the board.....the wonders of modern technology eh? clear as mud is appropriate I feel... :p :p :p

#2832 Gino CP Nov 28, 2006 11:46 PM

Take into account pitch and drag. Sometimes a higher teeth can be better when you consider effect on lift and drag. On my Blade CP, 11T yields better head speed and longer runtime than a 10T. Put a 7.5amp fuse on your main motor and experiment with pinion size until you get best result.

#2833 jsy nobby Nov 28, 2006 11:56 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP Take into account pitch and drag. Sometimes a higher teeth can be better when you consider effect on lift and drag. On my Blade CP, 11T yields better head speed and longer runtime than a 10T. Put a 7.5amp fuse on your main motor and experiment with pinion size until you get best result.

Gino, That'd be fine if I could get the pinion off the motor spindle!!!! I think mine have been welded on!!!!Guess I'm gonna have to shell out for a gear puller next.... :mad:

#2834 Gino CP Nov 29, 2006 12:55 AM

Yes you will need a gear puller and a vise or clamp to press new gears on. Look for a puller that can do 2mm and 2.3 for BL as well as go down to tail motor size in case you will be using tail motors from different brands. I had to pull out gears from old EFlite tail motors to get my ESky tail motors to work on my CP. If you ask me, just buy the proper stock parts and your heli will be fine.

#2835 scarter2 Nov 29, 2006 01:06 AM

Anybody know how long it takes to charge the battery that comes with the HB II? Its the 8.4V Ni-MH that came with the heli.

#2836 jsy nobby Nov 29, 2006 01:35 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by scarter2 Anybody know how long it takes to charge the battery that comes with the HB II? Its the 8.4V Ni-MH that came with the heli. they normally charge within about an hour to an hour and a half,make a note of the time and see how long it takes the battery pack to get warm... A Ni-mh in good condition will show about 10.5 volts fully charged.A voltage checker is a good thing to have...I got mine here http://www.buzzflyer.co.uk/RC-Helic...-0906/p-90- 263/ to be honest I find Ni-mh batteries don't perform very well as the power curve drops off very quickly...some half decent 2cell lipo's and a good charger will stand you in good stead...

#2837 Rare Bear Nov 29, 2006 01:45 AM

Hey, guys - I just had my best heli flight ever, thanks to the Honeybee!! I decided to give nose-in a try, and it just clicked - nose in was a breeze, and swooping turns & piros were such a blast! :D I've never had so much fun w/ a heli, and I'm learning so much w/ every flight I take. This bird is awesome - can't wait for another flight!! :) On another note, I have a vibration issue that I'm trying to null out. I rebuilt a few parts the other night, and my heli flew beautifully - vibration free. But, on my second flight, there was a vibration that I can't figure out. How tight should my blades be? My flybar paddles are fine, and my main shaft is true, so I'm a bit lost. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :) God bless - "Rare"

#2838 Gino CP Nov 29, 2006 02:24 AM

Tight enough to resist moving on spoolup and spooldown but loose enough to fold on impact. ON the FP, this is best achieved with a bolt-nut conversion.

#2839 JustPlaneChris Nov 29, 2006 02:51 AM

Way to go, Rare! You have seen the light. The light-weight FP, that is. ;) See, I try to spread the word about the joyful Honey Bee FP, but many scoff and think they aren't a real man unless they fly a "3D" heli. Shoot, I say all helis are 3D. After all, they can move in all directions, can't they? :cool: I think your vibration issues will be solved after you install the head stiffener and bolt-nut conversion. Incidentally, I had a vibration issue with mine last week. I thought maybe the main shaft was tweaked after innumerable crashes, but it turns out the upper main shaft bearing was coming apart. Sheesh, constant flying since June and I finally wore out a part! :D -Chris

#2840 Rare Bear Nov 29, 2006 03:43 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Way to go, Rare! You have seen the light. The light-weight FP, that is. ;) See, I try to spread the word about the joyful Honey Bee FP, but many scoff and think they aren't a real man unless they fly a "3D" heli. Shoot, I say all helis are 3D. After all, they can move in all directions, can't they? :cool: I think your vibration issues will be solved after you install the head stiffener and bolt-nut conversion. Incidentally, I had a vibration issue with mine last week. I thought maybe the main shaft was tweaked after innumerable crashes, but it turns out the upper main shaft bearing was coming apart. Sheesh, constant flying since June and I finally wore out a part! :D -Chris

Amen to that, Chris! :) I've learned more in the past two flights than I have in dozens w/ my other heli's. I now realize how much my Belt CP was holding me back; between the fear of the heli itself and the cost/time of the rebuild if a crash were to happen, I literally don't want to fly it, and that heli hasn't been fun since. But, this little FP has been a dream come true, because it's far less intimidating, and it's simply a joy to fly. With just another few flights, my skills are going to dramatically jump, and in a dozen flights or so, nose-in flight will be as natural as breathing. I love this heli!!!! :D:):D As for the vibe issues, I hope the stiffener will help out, because I hate it when my heli is shaking about - like it nice & smooth. Hope that stiffener will smooth things out!! God bless - "Rare"

#2841 Wren1702 Nov 29, 2006 04:12 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear Amen to that, Chris! :) I've learned more in the past two flights than I have in dozens w/ my other heli's. I now realize how much my Belt CP was holding me back; between the fear of the heli itself and the cost/time of the rebuild if a crash were to happen, I literally don't want to fly it, and that heli hasn't been fun since. But, this little FP has been a dream come true, because it's far less intimidating, and it's simply a joy to fly. With just another few flights, my skills are going to dramatically jump, and in a dozen flights or so, nose-in flight will be as natural as breathing. I love this heli!!!! :D:):D As for the vibe issues, I hope the stiffener will help out, because I hate it when my heli is shaking about - like it nice & smooth. Hope that stiffener will smooth things out!! God bless - "Rare"

I put off the stiffner forever, then kicked myself for a week for not doing it sooner! :eek: :eek: :D I think you'll be very happy!

#2842 garylee33 Nov 29, 2006 04:19 AM

Hey guys.. I was thinking about using the little plastic parts that come with the FP replacement head. You know that piece that goes on the bottom. Could I just drill out the tops, and stack 3 or 4 of those guys and run the bolts through it all? I have a bunch of those plastic parts. (don't ask) I was thinking they would fit perfectly. What do you think?? Gary

#2843 garylee33 Nov 29, 2006 04:20 AM

Of course I talking about the "Head Stiffener" mod. But you knew that.. g

#2844 Rare Bear Nov 29, 2006 04:40 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Wren1702 I put off the stiffner forever, then kicked myself for a week for not doing it sooner! :eek: :eek: :D I think you'll be very happy!

I'm sure I'll be very happy, Wren - probably will make a dramatic difference. Chris is hooking me up w/ a stiffener, so I'll be set to go anytime now. My thanks to Chris for his help & generosity! :) God bless - "Rare"

#2845 JustPlaneChris Nov 29, 2006 04:45 AM

Darn slow post office, I hoped you'd get it today! Maybe tomorrow? :) -Chris

#2846 scarter2 Nov 29, 2006 05:08 AM

Well I have flown the heli twice. Actually I have treaded lightly on the skids twice. I read that you should get the heli barely off the skids until you get used to all of the controls. No crashes yet so Im pretty excited.

#2847 Rare Bear Nov 29, 2006 05:32 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Darn slow post office, I hoped you'd get it today! Maybe tomorrow? :) -Chris

Probably tomorrow, Chris - looking forward to it! I'm hoping to get some really good flights in before I install it so I can see/feel the difference. From everything you've said, I'm really looking forward to the difference in flight! Thanks again, Chris! :D God bless - "Rare"

#2848 TooTall Nov 29, 2006 06:36 AM

Very well done Rare , now after a few good flights with nose in and the stiffner mod. you should be more comfortable about your Belt CP..start all over with it again ...bring it into hover and just hold it there , it will drift also , then begin learning your side ins again etc...before you know it you will be flying it. good luck and good flying ..Tom

#2849 TooTall Nov 29, 2006 06:45 AM

4 Attachment(s) Oh I forgot to add what I have done to my HB II FP ....this isn't a pic of it finished but I like to take the pics so as I can see what else it needs ...It is a Darthdk fuselage and I have shown these pics in his thread as well , so forgive me if some of you are seeing these again ...thanks for everyone's time and their sharing ....Tom

#2850 Rare Bear Nov 29, 2006 08:43 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by TooTall Very well done Rare , now after a few good flights with nose in and the stiffner mod. you should be more comfortable about your Belt CP..start all over with it again ...bring it into hover and just hold it there , it will drift also , then begin learning your side ins again etc...before you know it you will be flying it. good luck and good flying ..Tom

Thanks, Tom! :D I can't wait to fly again & really bump my skills to the next level w/ this heli. My Belt CP is going to be sitting for a while, because I'm just having too much fun w/ my Honeybee, and I have a CP2 awaiting me under the tree - another heli I really want to become proficent in with all aspects of flight before I spool up my Belt. At this point, my Belt CP just scares me - it's a lot of heli, and I would rather shelve it in one piece than look at it's mangled fuselage after pushing it around. I just want to have fun & learn while doing it, and these simple heli's are where it's at. So, I'm in FP land, and my CP2 will just add icing to the cake! :D :) :D God bless - "Rare" BTW - Nice MD500!! That's one trick little FP! How does it fly, Tom? Is it heavy? Either way, it's beautiful, and I'm sure it's a kick in the pants to fly!!

#2851 TooTall Nov 29, 2006 04:36 PM

With the fuselage it comes in at 9.4 oz...I used a barebones airframe and added a humminboard mixer , century piezo gyro , and a FMA M5 rx that weighs in at 7 oz. with a TP 860 2s lipo brings it up to 8.4 oz. so the painted fuselage is in at an 1 oz. It still flys nicely on the brushed motors and they run cooler than I would have expected ...It sure looks cool in the air ..when I have a chance I will get with my son and have him take a few pics. of it airborne ...Tom

#2852 jsy nobby Nov 29, 2006 05:43 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear Hey, guys - I just had my best heli flight ever, thanks to the Honeybee!! I decided to give nose-in a try, and it just clicked - nose in was a breeze, and swooping turns & piros were such a blast! :D I've never had so much fun w/ a heli, and I'm learning so much w/ every flight I take. This bird is awesome - can't wait for another flight!! :) On another note, I have a vibration issue that I'm trying to null out. I rebuilt a few parts the other night, and my heli flew beautifully - vibration free. But, on my second flight, there was a vibration that I can't figure out. How tight should my blades be? My flybar paddles are fine, and my main shaft is true, so I'm a bit lost. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :) God bless - "Rare"

Nice one Rare.have you checked that your rotor blades are balaced properly,If they're not this will cause vibration however you set the rotors...Might be an idea to check the tail rotor balance while your'e at it.... -Andy

#2853 jgoodwin Nov 29, 2006 08:30 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by scarter2 Well I have flown the heli twice. Actually I have treaded lightly on the skids twice. I read that you should get the heli barely off the skids until you get used to all of the controls. No crashes yet so Im pretty excited.

That sounds perfect Scarter2. I did the RADD method (basically what you are doing) for about 3 days before I gunned it and got into a hover... then flew into something and crashed... I discovered after about a week that the helicopter was out of balance. Even trimmed up, if it is out of balance it is hard to control. Try this: Turn your fly-bar perpendicular to the tail (like arms/wings sticking out) and pick it up by them by hooking 2 fingers under them. It will probably come off the ground front skids first. This is bad. You want to to come off level or maybe (just barely) back of the skids first. I repair my heli less and less. I fly every day (just about). I have progressed to doing ugly figure-8s and it is a blast! Jay

#2854 RC4ZEKE Nov 29, 2006 08:49 PM

1 Attachment(s) Well, I got a little crazy. :eek: I don't use the training gear anymore. Anyone know if the carbon fiber from it would work for the flybar. :confused:

#2855 bod001 Nov 29, 2006 09:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by RC4ZEKE Well, I got a little crazy. :eek: I don't use the training gear anymore. Anyone know if the carbon fiber from it would work for the flybar. :confused:

I used mine to make a flybar but i noticed it had a little more flex in it than the original flybar. I bought a length of 2mm carbon fibre rod which is perfect and have cut about 8 lengths from this for flybar. The whole length cost less than a pair of original flybars. Done the same for the tail boom and found the quality of the carbon fibre to be much better than the stock boom, much stronger. 3 tail booms for the price of one stock one. I would check online or buy from a model or kite shop. But since this i have not broke a tail boom or flybar in ages!!!

#2856 RC4ZEKE Nov 29, 2006 09:24 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bod001

I bought a length of 2mm carbon fibre rod which is perfect and have cut about 8 lengths from this for flybar.

Ok, think I will go this route. Thank You! :)

#2857 Discusman Nov 29, 2006 10:47 PM

Guys, I want to make my own head stiffer. The plastic head piece broke again (not the black one, the cream color, fiber?). I think the blades hit the ground before. any idea?

#2858 JustPlaneChris Nov 29, 2006 11:14 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Discusman Guys, I want to make my own head stiffer. The plastic head piece broke again (not the black one, the cream color, fiber?). I think the blades hit the ground before. any idea? If you have all the pieces of the one that goes under the head, glue them back together, carefully sand it smooth. Lay a piece of fiberglass cloth, or if you don't have any use thin fabric (cotton hankie will work) over it and soak it with CA glue. Let it cure, then trim it up. Repeat for the other side. Should be nice and strong. -Chris

#2859 ktm520 Nov 29, 2006 11:45 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by RC4ZEKE I don't use the training gear anymore. Anyone know if the carbon fiber from it would work for the flybar. :confused: yes it will work

#2860 Rare Bear Nov 30, 2006 01:52 AM

Just got your head stiffener, Chris - awesome! You should sell these, Chris - they look great, and they're super stiff! :) Perfect timing, too; I was going to wait to install it, but a "cough" rough landing "cough" has given me the chance to install a few new parts, along w/ the head stiffener you sent me. :D Thanks again, Chris - you're awesome! You sent me everything I need, including an allen wrench for the bolts - how cool is that!! God bless you, Chris - you're a truly great guy. God bless - "Rare"

#2861 =-C°G-= Nov 30, 2006 03:16 AM

...A little help from my friends...

I have no idea why the Beetles just crept into my head... :D I hope a few of you might be able to help me out... While practicing hovering in my basement this evening I am noticing something that seems to be getting a bit worse. When hovering about 4ft off the floor, the heli will start a descent on its own. Not normally straight down but, in any direction downwards. (if that makes sense :) ) If I just correct with the aileron/elevator and no tail rotor or throttle, it will generally slow its descent and begin to rise again. The cycle will repeat. It can also happen a bit lower or higher in altitude. I thought maybe GE but that hieght is normally sufficient to break out of it. I also noticed this outdoors but, not as much. (It was a while back) At that time I thought that it might be just a gentle breeze affecting the lift. Here are some observations.... -No audible RPM change on the main motor -No audible RPM change on the tail rotor -Flight time does not matter. -No apparent glitching of the servos (recently replaced with HS-55's) -At the onset of the decent, you can hear the rotor get louder (kind of like a fan with something on its blade) If I correct with throttle, this will cause the noise to get louder and if I give it enough throttle to "break" out of this descent the noise seems to go away or at least get quieter. -At spool up or a low RPM where the heli is still on the ground. There is no vibration from the rotor head. (I spent some time balancing the rotor blades individually and fastened to the blade holder.) The head will spin up true with out the main blades as well. -Paddles are set to 0° - Main blades are in decent shape, no cracks a few small nicks on the tips. LE is clean. -The blades appear to track true when holding the heli by the skids and eyeballing. Would the noise I hear, possibly be considered "flapping"? Which in turn is causing a blade or both to loose clean air? Reducing lift? I have thought about being in the basement and the amount of air being moved by the heli causing a downdraft but it seems to happen outdoors as well. In the basement I got a good 8-10 feet clearance around the heli (3-4 above and below when hovering). Not understanding all of the dynamics of Heli flight I am finding myself at a bit of a loss. I appreciate any and all input. Thank you.

#2862 JustPlaneChris Nov 30, 2006 04:03 AM

You are experiencing what some call "vortex ring state" and some call "descending with power". Regardless, it is the same effect. Google vortex ring state to do some reading that is guaranteed to hurt your brain. :) In lay terms, your heli is encountering air that is already moving downwards (like a down draft) except it is generated by the helicopter itself! It's worse in a room because the disturbed air has nowhere to go, but it can happen outdoors too. I've experienced it with my T-Rex and Hornet X3D too, so even powerful helis can experience it. Neat stuff, these heli aerodynamics. :cool: -Chris

#2863 JustPlaneChris Nov 30, 2006 04:07 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear Just got your head stiffener, Chris - awesome! You should sell these, Chris - they look great, and they're super stiff! :) Thanks, Rare! Glad you got it, and I look forward to a flight report. I may have a biased opinion about how well they work. :rolleyes: I really don't want to get into the heli parts business, especially not making things like that by hand. Now.... if I could find someone to water jet cut them from aluminum for a reasonable price.... :cool: -Chris

#2864 Rare Bear Nov 30, 2006 04:14 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Thanks, Rare! Glad you got it, and I look forward to a flight report. I may have a biased opinion about how well they work. :rolleyes: I really don't want to get into the heli parts business, especially not making things like that by hand. Now.... if I could find someone to water jet cut them from aluminum for a reasonable price.... :cool: -Chris

I'll be posting a flight report tomorrow - as long as the winds behave. :o I'll be sure to let you know what I think!! I'm hoping my vibration issues will die down, because I have been dealing with a vibration that I can't seem to fix, and as for the rotor blades, one is creating more lift, but how do I fix that? I bent it by hand a bit, but that seems pretty ineffective - plastic just rebounds to its original shape. Any hints would be much appreciated! Whether you get into the stiffener busines or not, your work is by far the best I've seen - much better than my friends stiffener! Good work, my friend - I'm very, very impressed. :D God bless - "Rare"

#2865 JustPlaneChris Nov 30, 2006 04:45 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear I have been dealing with a vibration that I can't seem to fix, and as for the rotor blades, one is creating more lift, but how do I fix that? I bent it by hand a bit, but that seems pretty ineffective - plastic just rebounds to its original shape. Any hints would be much appreciated! It takes quite a bit of twisting to get them to change their shape. I kindof twist and stroke them. (That sounded all wrong... :rolleyes: ) If it really resists, a bit of warm air from a hair dryer helps. I'm glad you like the workmanship! It's made from carbon cloth that I vacuum-bag with epoxy resin. I make thin sheets of it using two layers of 5 oz unidirectional carbon cloth (weave oriented 90° to each other), with 1.5 oz fiberglass on a 45° bias added for torsional stiffness.. To make thicker parts like the stiffener, I just laminate strips of the thin stuff together with thick CA (after sanding it to roughen the surface). It is really useful stuff for making battery trays, gyro mounts.... all kinds of fun micro heli parts. :cool: -Chris

#2866 Rare Bear Nov 30, 2006 07:24 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris It takes quite a bit of twisting to get them to change their shape. I kindof twist and stroke them. (That sounded all wrong... :rolleyes: ) If it really resists, a bit of warm air from a hair dryer helps. I'm glad you like the workmanship! It's made from carbon cloth that I vacuum-bag with epoxy resin. I make thin sheets of it using two layers of 5 oz unidirectional carbon cloth (weave oriented 90° to each other), with 1.5 oz fiberglass on a 45° bias added for torsional stiffness.. To make thicker parts like the stiffener, I just laminate strips of the thin stuff together with thick CA (after sanding it to roughen the surface). It is really useful stuff for making battery trays, gyro mounts.... all kinds of fun micro heli parts. :cool: -Chris

Wow, Chris!! :eek: :eek: :eek: I thought you were just cutting these pieces out of carbon sheets! Man, that's a lot of work, and quite the product, I might add!! You really know what you're doing, Chris, and I sat this w/ absolute truth, I wouldn't be able to find a stiffener as good as yours anywhere else. Thanks again, Chris - quite the beautiful piece. Some heat, huh? Well, my room is always around 90 degrees - does that count? :) I'll really work on them, and if needed, I'll set the blade in front of my heater & see if that helps. Thanks for the insight! :D God bless - "Rare"

#2867 jtspin Nov 30, 2006 08:27 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris You are experiencing what some call "vortex ring state" and some call "descending with power". Regardless, it is the same effect. Google vortex ring state to do some reading that is guaranteed to hurt your brain. :) In lay terms, your heli is encountering air that is already moving downwards (like a down draft) except it is generated by the helicopter itself! It's worse in a room because the disturbed air has nowhere to go, but it can happen outdoors too. I've experienced it with my T-Rex and Hornet X3D too, so even powerful helis can experience it. Neat stuff, these heli aerodynamics. :cool: -Chris

You should try it in a fullscale heli. Lots of fun! :D

#2868 mem Nov 30, 2006 09:36 AM

Head Stiffener

1 Attachment(s) In the absence of Chris retailing his hand made stiffeners, production ones are available via the internet at modest cost. I am very happy with the one I got from a company in the UK as suggested by bod001 I haven’t tried it but there is a Delrin Head Stiffener (SA-MH01) for the FEDA/Century/GWS Micro Helicopters at BPHobbies that might work on the FP

#2869 Gino CP Nov 30, 2006 10:04 AM

The more I read on the more I want to get a HB FP. Hehehe.

#2870 =-C°G-= Nov 30, 2006 12:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jtspin You should try it in a fullscale heli. Lots of fun! :D

From what I have seen in my basement, that would be one heck of a ride! :D

#2871 johnnycat500 Nov 30, 2006 12:05 PM

3 Attachment(s) finality found an fp thread. i have 2 hb fp 's. here's a few pics

#2872 =-C°G-= Nov 30, 2006 12:08 PM

Now I've got something to read while on my lunch break at work! :D Thank you Chris!

#2873 mem Nov 30, 2006 12:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by johnnycat500 finally found an fp thread. i have 2 hb fp 's. here's a few pics Johnny, welcome to the forums. Nice job on your FPs, I hope they fly as well as they look. Did you have to add much weight in the nose to balance the tail fan?

#2874 terencechan Nov 30, 2006 05:36 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Johnny, welcome to the forums. Nice job on your FPs, I hope they fly as well as they look. Did you have to add much weight in the nose to balance the tail fan?

Yeah, nice looking FP. :cool: I wonder what's the silver thingy between the mainframe and the tail boom for? Does it allow the tail boom to bend in a crash to save the boom from breaking? Terence

#2875 TooTall Nov 30, 2006 06:57 PM

Looks to be a boom support with setscrews instead of having to ca them into place...Yea I like the tail fans ..which ones are those and where did you get the fin or does it come as a unit ...thanks ...Tom

#2876 ritzheli Nov 30, 2006 08:02 PM

Similiar Bird, New Tail Feathers!

Hello johnnycat500, OK dude, share with the rest of the class ;) . We all want to know how you did it, battery size and placement, electronics involved, any links to what fan motor you used, etc. I want to use all my extra parts, this looks like it will fill my bill, how does it fly? :confused: Did you have to hack the 4in1? Any and all info is needed for those of us on the 'Heli Crack Addiction' diet! :eek: We all need more helicopters. :D :rolleyes: Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying Your heli looked so good, I forgot :o (insert addiction here)to tell you, terrific job on your "Camo" bird. ;)

#2877 crxef9 Nov 30, 2006 08:08 PM where is the best deal to get one of these fp?

#2878 Wren1702 Nov 30, 2006 08:32 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 where is the best deal to get one of these fp?

I like BPHobbies, $129.95. Here's the link: http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?i...062&pid=W486781

#2879 lovespicyfood Nov 30, 2006 08:45 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Wren1702 I like BPHobbies, $129.95. Here's the link: http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?i...062&pid=W486781 xheli.com has them for $89 right now! I do like bphobbies very much. I believe they have the most inexpensive spare parts!

#2880 crxef9 Nov 30, 2006 09:02 PM so u guys got it from bphobbies?

#2881 lovespicyfood Nov 30, 2006 09:10 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 so u guys got it from bphobbies?

I got mine from xheli. At $89 for the same kit, why would you order it somewhere else for $129? :confused: It shipped quickly and arrived in good shape (to my brother, it's my bday gift).

#2882 jtspin Nov 30, 2006 09:15 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by =-C°G-= Now I've got something to read while on my lunch break at work! :D Thank you Chris!

For some really interesting reading, try this: http://www.faa.gov/library/manuals/...a-h-8083-21.pdf

#2883 Rare Bear Nov 30, 2006 09:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jtspin For some really interesting reading, try this: http://www.faa.gov/library/manuals/...a-h-8083-21.pdf

They offer these manuals for free? I paid a decent amount for mine, amongst many others! By far, this manual has the most to offer, although the depth in certain areas is lacking here & there. Check out Ray Prouty's series of books on helicopter aerodynamics for some real in-depth info - amazing machines, these heli's are. :) God bless - "Rare"

#2884 mrmuffinmanvw Nov 30, 2006 09:31 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by lovespicyfood I got mine from xheli. At $89 for the same kit, why would you order it somewhere else for $129? :confused: It shipped quickly and arrived in good shape (to my brother, it's my bday gift). What did they pay for shipping BP ships free over $125.00 you have to take that into account and they ship fed ex.

#2885 crxef9 Nov 30, 2006 09:39 PM hmm xheli has them $98 shipped. man so many options to go with

#2886 lovespicyfood Nov 30, 2006 11:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mrmuffinmanvw What did they pay for shipping BP ships free over $125.00 you have to take that into account and they ship fed ex.

I just found out my bro paid $103.59 delivered. That included tax (we live in CA) so shipping was ~$7. Hope this helps!

#2887 johnnycat500 Nov 30, 2006 11:35 PM

3 Attachment(s) for an fp the ducted fan unit is a gws edf-40 6 - 8.4v. most heli sites have them...i get all my fp parts at bphobbies. on the camo bird i broke the tail boom the 3rd day i had it ,so i machined an alumn quick disconnect for it. i can change the boom or go back to the tail rotor in about 3 mins.the fin i made. i started useing the df with a 800 2-cell li-po but it still needed a 1 1/2 fender washer under the batt to get the cg right. now i use a 1300 2-cell li-po that i got from gary at superskids.com. no washer needed.the fp is a completely different bird with the df. the tail damn near holds itself, that why i put df's on both birds. heres a link for a vid of the camo one and one is coming for the white one. also a few more pics. any thing you guys need to know throw it at me....john http://media.putfile.com/honey-bee-fp

#2888 bod001 Nov 30, 2006 11:46 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by johnnycat500 for an fp the ducted fan unit is a gws edf-40 6 - 8.4v. most heli sites have them.... any thing you guys need to know throw it at me....john

Can you tell me the weight of the ducted fan setup you have please john?

#2889 johnnycat500 Nov 30, 2006 11:51 PM total weight....27 [g]

#2890 johnnycat500 Dec 01, 2006 01:32 AM

HERE'S THE SECOND VIDEO OF A NEWBIE TRYING TO DO PIRO'S.....THE GARAGE DOOR WAS NOT HURT IN THE MAKING OF THIS FLIM...LOL http://media.putfile.com/HONEY-BEE-FP-PIROS

#2891 Gino CP Dec 01, 2006 01:36 AM

That tail is pretty quick. For some reason I crash too when performing for a camera.

#2892 crxef9 Dec 01, 2006 02:08 AM is the esky heli a tough heli compared to the cp2? how much would usual crash cost run u guys?

#2893 Wren1702 Dec 01, 2006 02:25 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 is the esky heli a tough heli compared to the cp2? how much would usual crash cost run u guys?

Nothing! Notta! Zip! A Smile...... OK,landing gear($3.30), paddle frame($1.74), Rotor head($1.58), Flybar($1.74 a pair) if you don't make them yourself! Normally you will not break anything at all, but if you do break something it's only ONE of the items listed . I've never even broken a blade.

#2894 Wren1702 Dec 01, 2006 02:26 AM

Oh, I forgot.....you may break a "Ring like pushrod" every once in a while. 2 for $1.13.

#2895 JustPlaneChris Dec 01, 2006 02:35 AM

In almost 6 months of flying my FP (almost every day) I've broken less than $20 worth of parts. Way less. I did finally wear out a motor ($9). Cheap flying. :cool: -Chris

#2896 crxef9 Dec 01, 2006 02:43 AM means even the most disastrous crash would not cost more than $20? means the cp2 is so much more man other than a 2s lipo what else needs to be upgraded? what kind of maneuver can this bird do with wind ~0-8mph?

#2897 JustPlaneChris Dec 01, 2006 03:11 AM

Well..... technically the most disasterous crash could cost the entire airframe ($41) and your radio gear too. I'm talking flying it into the path of a truck going down the freeway, or something. :D 2S Lipo is about the only upgrade I would consider "required". The head stiffener is nice, but only if you are already into forward flight. It hovers just fine without it. It'll fly around fine without it too, just not quite as nice. It will do any manuever that doesn't require negative pitch. -Chris

#2898 crxef9 Dec 01, 2006 03:37 AM erm i dont think a flip , roll or loop can be done? chris: did u ever upgrade the tail motor? cause i've seen your pics with the brushless setup

#2899 flynfrfun Dec 01, 2006 03:41 AM

I almost looped mine :eek: ! Got it up about 80' to start. She went over OK, but the recovery on the backside ate up 81' ;). Actually didn't hurt it too bad as it was close to pulling out. Ha,ha :rolleyes: Flynfrfun

#2900 JustPlaneChris Dec 01, 2006 04:02 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 erm i dont think a flip , roll or loop can be done? chris: did u ever upgrade the tail motor? cause i've seen your pics with the brushless setup No flips, rolls, or loops. Those manuevers require negative pitch. Hence, me saying "any manuever that doesn't require negative pitch". ;) No tail motor upgrade is necessary on this little guy. The stock single motor works great and lasts virtually forever when running on 2 cell lipo power. Again, just switch to 2 cell lipo and fly it. Don't worry about modifications. -Chris

#2901 crxef9 Dec 01, 2006 04:10 AM ok on my cp2 , i know there is a lot of setting up to do before i get to fly. what about the fp? what kind of setup do u have to ensure before flying it?

#2902 TheWolfen Dec 01, 2006 04:16 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Again, just switch to 2 cell lipo and fly it. Don't worry about modifications. -Chris Well, unless you are a tinkerer (I loved that line). I'm quickly finding out that I'm one of those. I started modifying my FP immediately and seem to enjoy working on it as much as flying it (not that I'm really flying it yet). I think this is both the best and the worst hobby for me. Best because I can mess with it so much and worst because I've spent way too much money! :) What would be really great is if I could learn how to be a machinist.. then I could really get into some trouble!! :D David

#2903 JustPlaneChris Dec 01, 2006 04:22 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 ok on my cp2 , i know there is a lot of setting up to do before i get to fly. what about the fp? what kind of setup do u have to ensure before flying it? I usually take a pee, because I know I'll be outside flying for at least 20 minutes (two battery packs). ;) That's about it. Plug it in and fly. It's a simple machine. :) -Chris

#2904 crxef9 Dec 01, 2006 04:29 AM thats it? dont even have to make sure the swash is level? blades balance? nothing? what spare parts should i get so i can get everything at one go?......

#2905 JustPlaneChris Dec 01, 2006 04:34 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 thats it? dont even have to make sure the swash is level? blades balance? nothing? what spare parts should i get so i can get everything at one go?......

Well, yeah... make sure the swash is level and moves in the right directions. Basic preflight steps. Blades are pretty well balanced. See post #2893 for a list of commonly broken parts (which was actually an answer to your question earlier about how tough it is). ;) -Chris

#2906 crxef9 Dec 01, 2006 05:19 AM man after reading how tough the fp is and seeing how u guys flew it especially chris videos. i just had to get one which i did , now im $125 poorer sigh.... can this do funnel? well wish me luck guys hope this one doesnt bite the dust like my cp2 did. p/s: other than getting head stiffeners to replace the plastic one on top and fiberglass on the bottom , i saw some of you have some sort of nut and bolt , what size are there and where can i get them from? so for the blades just leave them as loose as can be? i saw in one of chris video how it straightens out by itself

#2907 TooTall Dec 01, 2006 05:43 AM

You can use a 4-40 bolt and locking nut ...Not sure but a 2-56 may work ...If you look back thru these threads , Chris stated in one of them which size he used ...I used the 4-40 size bolts on a Hummingbird V1....haven't done this mod to my HB II as of yet ...Oh yea , you should be able to get these at your LHS ...just make sure you get the right length bolt ...Tom

#2908 crxef9 Dec 01, 2006 05:49 AM so just mention 4 units of 40 size bolts with nuts? what kind of length is needed?......

#2909 TooTall Dec 01, 2006 05:55 AM no not 4 units of 40 size bolts ....the size is 4-40 ..you could convert these to a similiar size metric...the length would depend on what you are using for a stiffener ...but a 1 inch long bolt should do it ..you also have to allow for the lock nut , if the 1 inch is a tad to long you can cut them down with a pair of bolt cutters .I have a pair of wire strippers that also has bolt cutters on them ..Tom

#2910 crxef9 Dec 01, 2006 06:32 AM ah alright , i will try look them up in the lhs , are they a necessary change? how tight do u have to get the blades or just loose? where can i get some head stiffeners too?

#2911 mem Dec 01, 2006 06:39 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 so just mention 4 units of 40 size bolts with nuts? what kind of length is needed?...... You want to get something like this although an inch is a little too long. The stock bolts are 1/3 inch long so ½ inch is about right for 1/8 inch spacers. 4-40 hardware is widely available, the metric equivalent is 2.5mm but locknuts in this size are thin on the ground (even in a metric country like the UK) The bolts should be just tight enough to prevent the blades from swinging from their own weight. I posted a link to some stiffeners on the previous page

#2912 crxef9 Dec 01, 2006 06:46 AM will a table saw or dremet cutting disc able to cut through them? mem: any idea which post #? thanks

#2913 jtspin Dec 01, 2006 06:47 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear They offer these manuals for free? I paid a decent amount for mine, amongst many others! By far, this manual has the most to offer, although the depth in certain areas is lacking here & there. Check out Ray Prouty's series of books on helicopter aerodynamics for some real in-depth info - amazing machines, these heli's are. :) God bless - "Rare"

Yeah, I know. I paid good money for mine too, but it pales in comparison to the price I paid to get my rotorcraft rating. I've never wanted to add it up. I might cry. :( I'll have to look for Ray Prouty's books. Thanks for the tip. -JT

#2914 crxef9 Dec 01, 2006 06:50 AM ok nvm i fount it mem , but its an UK site . =\ will a table saw or dremet cutting disc able to cut through them?

#2915 Flying-Addict Dec 01, 2006 06:50 AM

Since this thread is so :censored: large, ( I honestly tried reading through it all, but just can't make it :p ), can someone who has been following along from the beginning maybe recap a list of essential/important mods or break in procedures for it? From what I found so far, looks like heat sinks on both motors, water break in, 2s 800 lipos/tray and main and tail rotor fuses are good things to do...anything else? Thanks, F/A

#2916 mem Dec 01, 2006 06:56 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 ok nvm i fount it mem , but its an UK site . =\ will a table saw or dremet cutting disc able to cut through them?

The BPHobbies one could work, perhaps someone that has tried it could post and let us know. Its an easy thing to retrofit and you don't need to do it until you are ready for forward flight. edit: A number of people have reported success in this thread making a stiffener out of a Popsicle stick. I use a hacksaw to cut through bolts and file down the end to clean it up. A good tip is to thread a nut onto the bolt so after its cut and filed you can unscrew the nut to clean up the thread.

#2917 crxef9 Dec 01, 2006 08:21 AM hi mem , i wen tto bphobbies but couldnt find it. care to post a link?

#2918 mem Dec 01, 2006 08:48 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 hi mem , i wen tto bphobbies but couldnt find it. care to post a link? The BPHobbies link was in post 2868 You can click on the underlined hyperlinks or past the the url directly: http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?i...042&pid=T909505

#2919 bhbuster Dec 01, 2006 09:23 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Flying-Addict Since this thread is so :censored: large, ( I honestly tried reading through it all, but just can't make it :p ), can someone who has been following along from the beginning maybe recap a list of essential/important mods or break in procedures for it? From what I found so far, looks like heat sinks on both motors, water break in, 2s 800 lipos/tray and main and tail rotor fuses are good things to do...anything else? Thanks, F/A

Add to your list: Advance timing on the motor Head stiffener My opinion would be that the fuses and the water break-in would be the first priority. I would then advance the timing since the motor is out. Searching the thread for 'timing' should bring up the how to posts. Add the heat sinks, fix the tray and the head stiffener can be done last. Brian

#2920 tashley Dec 01, 2006 02:02 PM

Is there a carbon main blade that anyone would reccomend that has equal to or better performance of the Like 90 woodies for a brushless set up with three cells?

#2921 crxef9 Dec 01, 2006 05:18 PM bhbuster: what head stiffener did u use? so do u guys take out the top plastic and bottom fiberglass and replace with something stiffer?

#2922 JustPlaneChris Dec 01, 2006 06:54 PM

2 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 so do u guys take out the top plastic and bottom fiberglass and replace with something stiffer? Nope. The stock parts stay in place, and the stiffener piece goes on top of the existing plastic head piece. Here are some pictures of my setup. NOTE: I made a carbon bottom piece too, but only because I was bored. It is NOT needed. -Chris

#2923 mem Dec 01, 2006 07:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris NOTE: I made a carbon bottom piece too, but only because I was bored. It is NOT needed. -Chris To be clear, the bottom stiffener is needed, but it can be the stock fibreglass one, not the spiffy carbon one that Chris made.

#2924 Rare Bear Dec 01, 2006 08:39 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jtspin Yeah, I know. I paid good money for mine too, but it pales in comparison to the price I paid to get my rotorcraft rating. I've never wanted to add it up. I might cry. :( I'll have to look for Ray Prouty's books. Thanks for the tip. -JT

Checkout Ray Prouty's all encompassing "Helicopter Aerodynamics" book - about 700 pages worth of all his work in one. The guy is a genius, and it's a great way to understand the aerodynamic nature of helicopters. Link: http://secure.netsolhost.com/620409...tegory_Code=HeB God bless - "Rare"

#2925 JustPlaneChris Dec 01, 2006 08:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem To be clear, the bottom stiffener is needed, but it can be the stock fibreglass one, not the spiffy carbon one that Chris made. Oh, right. I guess that might not have been very clear in my post. :) -Chris

#2926 crxef9 Dec 01, 2006 11:07 PM chris: u're still using jst connectors on your fp?

#2927 jsy nobby Dec 02, 2006 02:41 AM how the hell do you connect up one of these???

2 Attachment(s) Lo all...Anybody out there know how to connect up an Epro BEC to an Esky 4-in-1? the guy at my not so local model shop said it was easy...JPC,if you're out there buddy,I need your help more than ever!!!!! :confused: :confused: I've trawled the forums to no avail,but read something about a 'Y' harness... -Andy

#2928 JustPlaneChris Dec 02, 2006 02:58 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 chris: u're still using jst connectors on your fp? Nope, I have long since switched to Deans. JST=JunkySTuff. ;) -Chris

#2929 JustPlaneChris Dec 02, 2006 03:01 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby Lo all...Anybody out there know how to connect up an Epro BEC to an Esky 4-in-1? the guy at my not so local model shop said it was easy...JPC,if you're out there buddy,I need your help more than ever!!!!! :confused: :confused: I've trawled the forums to no avail,but read something about a 'Y' harness... -Andy Andy, you need to connect the red/black battery leads for the brushless controller to the battery leads from the 4-in-1. You can do that with a "Y" connection, or just solder them in. You also need to be able to feed the signal wire of your brushless ESC to the throttle channel of the 4-in-1 (actually, that's confusing... to the 3-in-1) so it knows how much tail rotor to mix in. Best bet is to check out the "sticky" post at the top of the forum for the Blade CP / HB CP2 upgrades and mods. There are several methods for the "brushless hack" listed there. -Chris

#2930 TheWolfen Dec 02, 2006 06:12 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Nope, I have long since switched to Deans. JST=JunkySTuff. ;) -Chris Alright.. I'll bite.. I'm using JST everywhere. In fact, I just built a pigtail for my Hitec TX and converted its battery packs over as well. I'll admit I don't really like the JST when it comes to disconnecting the heli's lipo, but hadn't given it much thought. I've never seen a Deans up close, though. Why is it better? David

#2931 Gino CP Dec 02, 2006 06:34 AM

JSY, do not connect the red lead of the BL esc's servo wires (3-wire hraness) as this would supply a second source of rx voltage. Your 4-in-1 already provides that via its own BEC. To sum it up, y-connect the power leads to battery. Y-connect the signal lead to the throttle channel but do not connect the red wire of the signal cable.

#2932 JustPlaneChris Dec 02, 2006 02:00 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by TheWolfen Alright.. I'll bite.. I'm using JST everywhere. In fact, I just built a pigtail for my Hitec TX and converted its battery packs over as well. I'll admit I don't really like the JST when it comes to disconnecting the heli's lipo, but hadn't given it much thought. I've never seen a Deans up close, though. Why is it better? David David, The JST is fine for radio duty, and other low current draw applications. The connector is only rated for 3A. We don't go much over that with these little guys, but it is right at the limits of the connector's rating. Further, the wires are just crimped into the metal bits of the connector, and they will loosen over time. The Deans (both the mini and the big ones) are much better made and can handle the current with ease. In the past I used Sermos / Anderson Power Pole connectors on my electrics, but have been switching everything over to the Deans because they are much easier to find locally and are more compact. -Chris

#2933 TheWolfen Dec 02, 2006 06:14 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris David, The JST is fine for radio duty, and other low current draw applications. The connector is only rated for 3A. We don't go much over that with these little guys, but it is right at the limits of the connector's rating. Further, the wires are just crimped into the metal bits of the connector, and they will loosen over time. The Deans (both the mini and the big ones) are much better made and can handle the current with ease. In the past I used Sermos / Anderson Power Pole connectors on my electrics, but have been switching everything over to the Deans because they are much easier to find locally and are more compact. -Chris I can't believe I never noticed the JST was only rated for 3A! I wonder why CSRC puts them on their 8C lipos which are rated at 6.4A continuous?? I know you use the 10C packs - their web site isn't clear on what connector (to the ESC) comes attached - what did yours come with, if any? So is this the connector I should use for my lipos (the polarized micro)? Sounds like I need to read up on soldering connections to lipos and break out the iron! That's ok, I like to solder. :D Thanks very much - I'm really glad it came up! David

#2934 JustPlaneChris Dec 02, 2006 07:11 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by TheWolfen I can't believe I never noticed the JST was only rated for 3A! I wonder why CSRC puts them on their 8C lipos which are rated at 6.4A continuous?? I know you use the 10C packs - their web site isn't clear on what connector (to the ESC) comes attached - what did yours come with, if any? I suspect it's a case of 'going with the flow' since the majority of the micro helis and low current planes (the GWS line comes to mind) all have the JST connector from the factory. The 10C packs do indeed come with the JST installed. Quote: So is this the connector I should use for my lipos (the polarized micro)? That'll work fine. I actually use the Deans Ultra, but it's way overkill from a current draw perspective. I just standardized to one plug for convenience. -Chris

#2935 jsy nobby Dec 02, 2006 11:11 PM

I love it when a plan comes together....

Chris,Gino, My thanks for your help with the brushless conversion mod....Quite easy when you know how...It's been a long day on the tinkering front...at 23:00 my brushless whirlybird took to the skies of my bedroom,gratifying stuff,after some 10 hours of goofing around with fiddly wires that kept diconnecting themselves every time I soldered a connection....not to worry,I got there in the end thanks to you guys! :p :p ;) Needs a bit of tweaking but she flies!!! Once again I find myself humbled by your great know how.....-Andy. :D

#2936 taylorcraft078 Dec 02, 2006 11:12 PM

The heli is in the mail so I have been reading this tread - currently up to page 104. So far I know: Make a head stiffener Paint the blades white Toss the motor in a glass of water with a couple of C cells. I will need to get lipos eventually. Order a bare bones for parts. Today I took a couple of transmitters over to Radio Shack to find a buddy box connector. I now have an Airtronics hooked up to my clunker computer and it works with FMS. My Airtronics needed a 5 pin MIDI connector. I got 2 with a shielded cable between them. Other parts needed were a db25 male, a 15k resistor and a 2n3904. The plans wanted a 10k and a 2N2222 but they weren't in the top layer of the junk box. I did manage to crash just a few times :-). What is the best model to install for FMS? What size carbon fiber rod do I need for the landing gear and flybar spares? Dave

#2937 jsy nobby Dec 02, 2006 11:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by taylorcraft078 The heli is in the mail so I have been reading this tread - currently up to page 104. So far I know: Make a head stiffener Paint the blades white Toss the motor in a glass of water with a couple of C cells. I will need to get lipos eventually. Order a bare bones for parts. Today I took a couple of transmitters over to Radio Shack to find a buddy box connector. I now have an Airtronics hooked up to my clunker computer and it works with FMS. My Airtronics needed a 5 pin MIDI connector. I got 2 with a shielded cable between them. Other parts needed were a db25 male, a 15k resistor and a 2n3904. The plans wanted a 10k and a 2N2222 but they weren't in the top layer of the junk box. I did manage to crash just a few times :-). What is the best model to install for FMS? What size carbon fiber rod do I need for the landing gear and flybar spares? Dave

Dave, Dunno about the sim program,I never got it working(missing drivers on my poota) 2 mm carbon fibre rod makes good fly bars and landing skids...my training gear has been recycled in this fashion,the drilled ping- pong balls now being surplus to requirement! ;) as for which spares to get? see what you break first.... :D :D :D -Andy

#2938 jsy nobby Dec 03, 2006 12:07 AM

The sorcerer's apprentice?

1 Attachment(s) The llittle guy with the funny eye next to the copter may not be as dextrous as his bigger brothers in the background....He does a mean job of holding things steady while you solder them together though...... :D :D :D :D :D -Andy

#2939 mem Dec 03, 2006 12:23 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by taylorcraft078 What is the best model to install for FMS? Dave Dave, Try this one, it’s actually supposed to be a CP but it should be close enough. http://rcp.web.infoseek.co.jp/other...ell/new_cp1.zip

#2940 taylorcraft078 Dec 03, 2006 12:35 AM

I installed PPJoy for the drivers and used an interface from http://www.heliguy.com/nexus/fmsinterface.html . That page also has pointer to PPJoy. http://www.rc-sim.de/art_engine_en/...php?article=118 had good setup info for PPJoy. The default on my computer caused an instant reboot when I tried to turn on the Joystick. I had to set up the parallel port to use IRQ 7. I forgot to mention the Fuse mod in my list of things to do. Dave

#2941 taylorcraft078 Dec 03, 2006 03:47 PM

Looking at the setup videos in the threads here it looks like the transmitter is set up with throttle on the right stick and fore/aft cyclic on the left. Can this be changed to throttle on the left and all cyclic on the right? If not what type of crystal does the receiver use so I can put it on frequency with one of my other transmitters? I have Hitec and Airtronics available. Dave

#2942 JustPlaneChris Dec 03, 2006 04:06 PM

Actually, the ones sold in the US are mode 2 (throttle/rudder left, ail/elev right). You shouldn't have to change anything over. -Chris

#2943 mem Dec 03, 2006 06:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by taylorcraft078 ... what type of crystal does the receiver use so I can put it on frequency with one of my other transmitters? I have Hitec and Airtronics available. Dave If you do want to change frequencies then a single conversion Hitec crystal should work.

#2944 TheWolfen Dec 03, 2006 07:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris That'll work fine. I actually use the Deans Ultra, but it's way overkill from a current draw perspective. I just standardized to one plug for convenience. -Chris Well.. now I've gone and spent more money! :p I ordered the micros and naturally had to get a few other things. :rolleyes: Thanks! David

#2945 SlowAero Dec 03, 2006 09:31 PM

2 Attachment(s) Mem - I've tried using a Hitech crystal in HB. No luck with my Hitech Flash 5 TX. Just Chris - Head stiffener plate observation - I'm thinken the stiffener plates on top do a lot more to prevent twist than prevent up-ward flex. As shown in this photo the blades are bent way up and the plastic brace is still straight. Twisting the blades, on the other hand, really distorts the brace. What do you think? SA

#2946 JustPlaneChris Dec 03, 2006 09:33 PM

SA, you could be onto something there! The stiffener I'm using most definately will not twist like that. Hmmm..... Now that makes me wonder how a set of uber-stiff carbon blades would fly.... -Chris

#2947 mem Dec 03, 2006 10:14 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by SlowAero I've tried using a Hitech crystal in HB. No luck with my Hitech Flash 5 TX Strange, crystals from a Hitec HFS-05 rx work in my HB with my Optic 6.

#2948 SlowAero Dec 03, 2006 10:30 PM

2 Attachment(s) Chris, Carbon blades - Yea! This is 1.5mm aluminum stiffener plate with ears that support the blades 4/5 the way out the angled facet of the trailing edge. It doesn't interfere with the swing back of the blades too much but will reduce twist at the root. What do you think? Too bad my HB is down - I can't try it. When I give it throttle it twists a little counter-clock-wise, which it always did. Trouble is now when I give right rudder to compensate it full-on spins out counter-clock-wise. I ordered a replacement Honey from BP Friday. Cheers, SA

#2949 SlowAero Dec 03, 2006 10:32 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Strange, crystals from a Hitec HFS-05 rx work in my HB with my Optic 6.

Mem - what is a HFS-05? SA

#2950 Rare Bear Dec 03, 2006 10:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris SA, you could be onto something there! The stiffener I'm using most definately will not twist like that. Hmmm..... Now that makes me wonder how a set of uber-stiff carbon blades would fly.... -Chris

Anyone made a set of carbon blades for these heli's, Chris? I would be in the market if they were cheap enough. I remember seeing a pair for the Hummingbird, I think - any ideas? :rolleyes: God bless - "Rare" PS: Your head stiffener works great! My blades now track perfectly, and it flies quite nice. I'm dealing w/ some vibes, though. I ordered a .01g scale, and I'm going to follow SG Scott's balance tips & see if I can rid the vibes from my FP. I'll let you know what I come up with. :) Thanks again, Chris.

#2951 Rare Bear Dec 03, 2006 10:52 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by SlowAero Chris, Carbon blades - Yea! This is 1.5mm aluminum stiffener plate with ears that support the blades 4/5 the way out the angled facet of the trailing edge. It doesn't interfere with the swing back of the blades too much but will reduce twist at the root. What do you think? Too bad my HB is down - I can't try it. When I give it throttle it twists a little counter-clock-wise, which it always did. Trouble is now when I give right rudder to compensate it full-on spins out counter-clock-wise. I ordered a replacement Honey from BP Friday. Cheers, SA

Nice stiffener, SA! Where did you get that? Can't wait to hear what you think about it's flying qulities! God bless - "Rare"

#2952 JustPlaneChris Dec 03, 2006 11:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by SlowAero Chris, Carbon blades - Yea! This is 1.5mm aluminum stiffener plate with ears that support the blades 4/5 the way out the angled facet of the trailing edge. It doesn't interfere with the swing back of the blades too much but will reduce twist at the root. What do you think? Very cool idea, SA! I look forward to some test results. :) I've been toying with the idea of vac-bagging some carbon over a pair of stock blades to make them stiffer. Of course if I'm going to that much trouble, I should probably just make the entire blade from scratch. :rolleyes: So many ideas, so little time. -Chris

#2953 SlowAero Dec 03, 2006 11:22 PM

Rare, It is just .065" thick aluminum - I think from Lowes Hardware. I cut it out with my cheapy ($100) band saw. You could even cut with a hand coping saw. Aluminum is one of my favorites for small part fabrication. Not as strong as carbon fiber but it cuts with saw blades and you can bend and form it. Regards, SA

#2954 JustPlaneChris Dec 03, 2006 11:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear Anyone made a set of carbon blades for these heli's, Chris? I have seen pics of FP's with carbon blades, but I do not know the source or price. Since these are a "single surface" blade, it would be relatively easy to make a set. I suspect if I bag some carbon over a piece of PVC pipe I can get the right curvature, then it would just be a matter of cutting it to shape, tapering the trailing edge and drilling the root pieces. Even a balsa core blade, with fiberglass vacuum-bagged over it would work. Dang, I need to stop thinking about this. I've got a 12ft span sailplane on the workbench that needs to be finished! -Chris

#2955 johnnycat500 Dec 03, 2006 11:49 PM

1 Attachment(s) wanted to show you guys my notar experiment i did today. it flys but is to heavy. i guess if you wanted to spend the time to make it work you could. i will stick to my ducted fan tail....john http://media.putfile.com/honey-bee-notar-experiment

#2956 c2po Dec 04, 2006 04:27 AM

1 Attachment(s) well, inspired by GWS DD mod for my CP2 as shown here, I also decided to give it a try on my FP... guess what - it worked really well! it is 3 grams heavier than geared stock motor, but the tail holds really nice now, well, for the price of the buzzing sound like a mad fly ready to attack. :eek: and it doesn't even need a heatsink since after 10 min hovering it is barely warm, since I'm running on 2S 7.4V 800mAh CRSC lipo. darn, I just noticed on the photo that I forgot to remove two bearings! :o that's my three grams of weight right there! :mad: am I tinkering too much? :rolleyes: maybe I should stop already and go fly, uhmm well, I mean learn how to fly... :D

#2957 Gino CP Dec 04, 2006 04:31 AM

How did you mod the stock tail housing to fit the round motor?

#2958 c2po Dec 04, 2006 04:47 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP How did you mod the stock tail housing to fit the round motor? it just requires a little bit of cutting inside with a dremel (just about 1 mm), since stock motor has flat sides and GWS is round. I'll try to make a picture tomorrow of the inside. I really like it, DD motor is way much faster with catching up with the tail since there's less weight to speed up or slow down I guess... but - you have to have a tail fuse, because if you hit something with the tail rotor it's not gonna come off like a stock does freeing the motor, and also probably you need a new orange prop after that too because it can be easily damaged.

#2959 flynfrfun Dec 04, 2006 04:53 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by c2po ...am I tinkering too much? :rolleyes: maybe I should stop already and go fly, uhmm well, I mean learn how to fly... :D

Nope :D That's half the fun! Tinkering is what gets you to the other half of the fun...flying :) . Flynfrfun

#2960 c2po Dec 04, 2006 04:57 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by flynfrfun Nope :D That's half the fun! Tinkering is what gets you to the other half of the fun...flying :) . yeah, and actually I don't know which half I like better! :p

#2961 flynfrfun Dec 04, 2006 05:03 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by c2po yeah, and actually I don't know which half I like better! :p

Sounds like a win-win situation to me! :cool: :D

#2962 crxef9 Dec 04, 2006 06:11 AM c2po: doesnt the stock tail motor be good enough? where do u get your gws parts to do this? and did you wire the motor in a way that it is pushing air or pulling air towards to cool the tail motor more? thanks

#2963 mem Dec 04, 2006 09:23 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by SlowAero Mem - what is a HFS-05? SA The HFS-05 is a popular Hitec single conversion receiver, here is a link. I have no problems swapping crystals from these to the 4 in 1 in either my FP or CP.

#2964 jgoodwin Dec 04, 2006 01:37 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem The HFS-05 is a popular Hitec single conversion receiver, here is a link. I have no problems swapping crystals from these to the 4 in 1 in either my FP or CP.

I did have problems switching them driectly over. Could be my crystals though. I ended up replacing the E- Sky RX with an HFS-05 anyway. Now I can switch crystals and use my Hitec TX no problem! :-D crxef9: IMHO, The most important thing to make a new FP Heli fly-able is the front to back balance. Pick it up by the flybar and the tail will probably hang low. This makes it hard to fly. Moving the battery forward is the easiest fix, but sounds easier than it is. Again, a thread search will give you ideas on this. Jay

#2965 black_box Dec 04, 2006 01:55 PM who else sells the Mk3 with the LiPo battery? I only saw tower hobbies at $178. BPhobbies is only $129 but thats w/ the NiMH battery. Should I just go w/ the cheaper kit and buy my own LiPo's and charger? would aftermarket LiPo's work fine on the Mk3 charger, or is getting a "good" charger a better idea? suggestions for one? I may just go w/ the NiMH until i get some practice in, I'm starting from scratch with RC stuff but have been working on FSone for a bit.

#2966 PeterVRC Dec 04, 2006 02:13 PM

Black Box: Just grab whatever cheapest one you can find. NiMh is fine for while you learn and just use that setup as it comes. eg whether you get a Mk2 or 3, versus cost. Later as you get better you can worry about buying Lipo's and a decent charger for them, and will get better flying and duration from that. Don't waste any money on a second NiMh - unless you have that bit extra cash to splash. It will become redundant when you go to Lipo, but can get you more flying time, faster turn around, in the meantime. I got a 2nd NiMh but never got anywhere near the $ worth use of it really. Base your planning/cash around that you don't need Lipo right away but you WILL shift to them (2 good batteries) AND a decent charger later. (eg not the kit supplied lipo and charger). Oh, and practice on a sim a LOT! Recognise the difficulties of heli's (it is mainly orientation) and learn to fly them on your sim real well !! That will save you a ton of money on spares, and downtime, and disappointment / disillusionment! I don't know anything about FSONE - if it is a truly applicable sim for RC heli's(??) - but you can get FMS for free and easily wire up an interface so that you can use it with the heli RC transmitter you get. FMS is an adequate sim to train your 'fine' motor skills (fingers) and to teach you control across the 4 main orientations you will definitely need to learn! (tail-in, nose-in, and left and right side-in flying). I didn't take my real FP off the ground till I could fly my FMS sim Blade CP Pro very well (even 3D it fine - which is 100x easier in a sim!) which took almost one month and that meant I have now learnt to fly my real FP also very well, in approx 3 weeks, with only ever ONE stupid crash (bad decision, not lack of skill based incident). And as good as zero outlay on 'crash damage repairs' ever (so far....) - some CA, a bit of silicone fuel tubing and a length of 2.5mm CF rod for a new flybar (of which 40% more of its length has gone into mods on the heli anyway). Though a ton of $ in total now on upgrades to supe it up!. But the orientation and motor skill training via a sim FIRST is a BIG "MUST DO"!!! Well, if you want to save a LOT of $, and also speed up the total learning / practice / experience a lot too. Thanks to that path ALL my $'s have been 'usefully' used on upgrades (hmm, wasteful? lol), not burnt on repairs resulting from 'accidents', which are really of zero learning benefit anyway!

#2967 c2po Dec 04, 2006 03:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 c2po: doesnt the stock tail motor be good enough? where do u get your gws parts to do this? and did you wire the motor in a way that it is pushing air or pulling air towards to cool the tail motor more? now I can see that DD is more effective and reactive than the geared stock. I got it from here. wiring is the same way, red wire to the (+), and it's pushing air to the right as it was with stock.

#2968 mwood4494 Dec 04, 2006 03:08 PM

Which rotor first?

I read that when applying power to the Honey Bee, the Main rotor should start to spin up first, then the tail rotor.....My bird is the opposite. What would cause this and what can I do to correct this? Thanks in advance

#2969 PeterVRC Dec 04, 2006 03:21 PM

When applying throttle... Have you had the heli hovering? And if so do you have a rotational problem? The gyro controls the tail motor and it will spool up to some degree even as you throttle up off zero. I have to check later if mine ever spools up as quickly as you seem to indicate. It sounds like you might have the Proportion adjustment (or even Gain could do it too I think?) at least a bit wrong. Thus the question on hovering behaviour. Or if you have not hovered, then do it on a solid 'slippery' floor (eg not carpet) and see if the heli is rotating excessively as you power up. It could try to rotate a bit at first, but should not be too much. To adjust the gyro (would be the Proportion setting), disconnect the battery, adjust a BIT with a jewelers screwdriver and test again. I am pretty sure all 4-in-1's need to be reset (occurs on each initial power-on) for changes to have true effect. (??)

#2970 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 04, 2006 03:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mwood4494 I read that when applying power to the Honey Bee, the Main rotor should start to spin up first, then the tail rotor.....My bird is the opposite. What would cause this and what can I do to correct this? Thanks in advance Its a adjustment on your 4in1 the mix between the main and tail motors. Mine the tail starts first and it flys great and lifts almost straight up. If it lifts into a hover without you having to put to much left stick to keep the tail from rotating its fine if not adjust it.

#2971 racin06 Dec 04, 2006 03:33 PM

Recommended parts for HB FB?

I'm about to order a HB FP. I'm adding the training set and extra battery. I'm sure I will have my share of mishaps; therefore, what replacements parts do you recommend?

#2972 mwood4494 Dec 04, 2006 03:34 PM

Which rotor first?

Being the noob I am.... I'm able to get the heli off the ground with little rotational problems (more evident prior to leaving ground effect) so I'll assume no adjustment is required. I'm still in the process of trimming as I haven't had my heli long at all. Thanks for the information and assistance!!! I'm hooked!!!! :D

#2973 mem Dec 04, 2006 03:41 PM

#2974 racin06 Dec 04, 2006 03:45 PM

Thanks mem!

#2975 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 04, 2006 03:49 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by racin06 I'm about to order a HB FP. I'm adding the training set and extra battery. I'm sure I will have my share of mishaps; therefore, what replacements parts do you recommend? On top of whats on Chris's list also order both sets of links some ca and some thread for repairs. You will be very surprised what you can fix with thread and ca.

#2976 mem Dec 04, 2006 04:30 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mrmuffinmanvw ...you will be very surprised what you can fix with thread and ca. Yes, and if you don’t mind a little tinkering, you could get some 2mm carbon fiber rod to repair broken skids and flybars.

#2977 black_box Dec 04, 2006 05:33 PM racin06, here's my list of stuff, which I'm still tweaking. I plan to add the fuse mod, CA glue, thread, and motor break-in procedure. All of this stuff is from reading this thread/forum. PeterVRC's post makes sense and i think i will hold off on the lipo purchase. Recommended extra parts for the initial purchase (**list under review because I'm a newb**): Skid set (or get the upgraded super landing gear from helidirect) Training gear (is this compatible with the helidirect gear?) Paddle control frame Rotor head set Ring-like push-rod Flybar (or purchase 2mm carbon fiber rod and cut your own) Main motor heat sink Tail motor heat sink optional extra parts: head stiffener. This is a "might-fit", saw it mentioned in the thread. Designed for FEDA/Century/GWS Micro Helicopters. **Stiffener is placed on top of the main rotor blades and requires longer screws w/ locking nuts (machine screws, size 4-40, length?) Main blade replacement (or the GWS blades, says they're "old" and on closeout? supposed to be thicker/more durable) Tail rotor replacement LiPo Battery from commonsenseRC LiPo Charger?

#2978 JustPlaneChris Dec 04, 2006 06:03 PM

GWS Gray Blades: I don't like 'em

Hey fellow FP-ers, After flying the GWS 'gray' blades for a couple of weeks, I've decided I really don't like them! Because they are so flexible, they give a 'softer' feel to the cyclic response. I guess that's a good thing when learning, but I found that I liked the more immediate response of the stock blades. The GWS blades are also narrower, and have less pitch, so the head speed is higher. This adds stability, but as mentioned it degrades the handling to some degree. I was also unhappy with the tracking. I could bend/tweak them to track fairly well, but next time I went to fly it the same blade was tracking low again (by about 15mm). I don't like a shakey heli, and this out-of- track condition caused some vibrations. On the bright side, they are very durable since they are somewhat soft and floppy. All in all, I think the stock blades provide better performance, but I'd give the nod to the GWS blades for durability and stability when hovering. -Chris

#2979 jsy nobby Dec 04, 2006 06:29 PM

2 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by black_box racin06, here's my list of stuff, which I'm still tweaking. I plan to add the fuse mod, CA glue, thread, and motor break-in procedure. All of this stuff is from reading this thread/forum. PeterVRC's post makes sense and i think i will hold off on the lipo purchase. Recommended extra parts for the initial purchase (**list under review because I'm a newb**): Skid set (or get the upgraded super landing gear from helidirect) Training gear (is this compatible with the helidirect gear?) Paddle control frame Rotor head set Ring-like push-rod Flybar (or purchase 2mm carbon fiber rod and cut your own) Main motor heat sink Tail motor heat sink optional extra parts: head stiffener. This is a "might-fit", saw it mentioned in the thread. Designed for FEDA/Century/GWS Micro Helicopters. **Stiffener is placed on top of the main rotor blades and requires longer screws w/ locking nuts (machine screws, size 4-40, length?) Main blade replacement (or the GWS blades, says they're "old" and on closeout? supposed to be thicker/more durable) Tail rotor replacement LiPo Battery from commonsenseRC LiPo Charger? the stock training gear does fit the landing skid upgrade(see pic) you may need to put the rod holders in front of the struts as opposed to behind them like mine, it depends on which way your heli wants to pitch when taking off. I attached the holders with cable ties... -Andy

#2980 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 04, 2006 07:38 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby the stock training gear does fit the landing skid upgrade(see pic) you may need to put the rod holders in front of the struts as opposed to behind them like mine, it depends on which way your heli wants to pitch when taking off. I attached the holders with cable ties... -Andy Wow what does your fp weigh with the super skids gws tail and that big battery??? It would seem probably as much as my CP2 as it doesn't have the super skids but has the extra servo.

#2981 c2po Dec 04, 2006 07:43 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris After flying the GWS 'gray' blades for a couple of weeks, I've decided I really don't like them! then you have to try blades for Kyosho M24 Caliber. they are so much better than floppy stocks, and with those blades and head stiffener not only I don't have any vibrations whatsoever, but the hover is so stable now that it seems like a heli is just frozen in one point in the air, with the blades forming one thin sharp line. also since those M24 blades have less pitch the headspeed now increased and I totally got rid of that nasty wobble at low headspeeds with stocks.

#2982 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 04, 2006 07:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Hey fellow FP-ers, All in all, I think the stock blades provide better performance, but I'd give the nod to the GWS blades for durability and stability when hovering. -Chris Chris thats what I found after I tested the GWS blades I went back to the stock blades also, sometimes all things that you test just bring you back to the small changes like a head stiffiner heat sinks a good lipo 7.4 800mAh and the best change of all a good TX. Esky came up with a really good design for this little heli I am glad I have one in my fleet. Can you believe we are right at page 200 on this thread. The last 100 pages came in a little less than 4 months. Wow this could be the longest thread ever if it stays at this pace.

#2983 jsy nobby Dec 04, 2006 07:59 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mrmuffinmanvw Wow what does your fp weigh with the super skids gws tail and that big battery??? It would seem probably as much as my CP2 as it doesn't have the super skids but has the extra servo.

Good question...dunno how much it weighs,I've no scales! I hasten to add that that picture was taken during an "experimental phase" I went through and I no longer use that type of battery,although they have lots of power and will fuel your whirlybird for ages,11.1v 3 cell lipo's have a passion for cooking.... :( :( :(, I'm nearly finished tweaking my brushless copter and so far it gets about 8 mins flying time on 2 cell 7.4v 800mah 12c,which ain't bad seeing as it's powering a 5400 kv brushless main motor, 2 tail motors and the radio gear.... -Andy

#2984 jsy nobby Dec 04, 2006 08:10 PM

1 Attachment(s) Yep!, the brave/stupid fella kneeling on the floor with a spinning tail rotor about 2 inches from his nose is me doing a bit of tail in hover practice....a word of warning,don't, whatever else you do,panic if your heli gets this close!!!!! I guess we've all tried this at home.... :D :rolleyes: ;)

#2985 mem Dec 04, 2006 08:40 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box Skid set (or get the upgraded super landing gear from helidirect)

Black Box, the Super Landing gear has mixed reviews. Its robust but very heavy. I support the view expressed earlier in the thread that you are better off staying light and giving the super anchor (sorry landing gear) a miss.

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby ...it's powering a 5400 kv brushless main motor… -Andy

Andy, what pinion do you have on that thing? :eek:

#2986 c2po Dec 04, 2006 09:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby I'm nearly finished tweaking my brushless copter and so far it gets about 8 mins flying time on 2 cell 7.4v 800mah 12c,which ain't bad seeing as it's powering a 5400 kv brushless main motor, 2 tail motors and the radio gear.... omg! why?! 8 mins? on 800mah? with brushless main and 2 tail? and a heavy skids? all that on a poor tiny little FP... :eek: after hovering 15 mins on my 800mah I still have 7.5-7.6V left on my 800mAh battery, so I guess I can even squeeze up to 20 mins from it. edit: wow, first post on page 200! :D

#2987 bod001 Dec 04, 2006 09:14 PM

I try and check out this thread most days as its a superb wealth of knowledge with some great hints and tips and i thought i would like to add some comments on the whole weight issue and as mentioned earlier the tinkering part of owning and flying one of these great little helicopters. I have had nitro r/c cars for several years but got bored so bought the honey bee fp. In my few months of flying one of these have gone down the path of making it as light as possible, if i remember correctly i think it wieghed about 260g at one point. Now it flew great but was like a kite and especially with the weather like it is where i am in the uk i felt it was a real handfull outside and cant really fly it inside. Classing myself as i bit of a tinkerer i have added the superskids a twin tail and the kyosho m24 blades and soon started to realise the whole powere to weight issue, but have added more power by going for the grapner speed 300 motor and 12c lipos and it now flies more stable and is so much easier if there is a breeze than it ever did when it was light. The batts are 1350mAh 12c lipos which are 65g that with the twin tail balances perfectly. The overal respose and climb rate is amazing. The rtf weight is now 325g it still flies fantastic and i have learnt a whole lot in the process of how model helicopters work which i think is conditioning me for something cp in the future. The added weight make it more likely to break something in a crash but the parts are so cheap! If you have some spare cash and want to experiment then its great fun if you dont then leave it stock and its still great. I also play golf and i know which is still the cheaper hobby(with those new clubs i will be able to hit it 10feet further!!!!) Sorry its a bit long just wanted to add some of my thoughts.

#2988 Rare Bear Dec 04, 2006 09:15 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by c2po then you have to try blades for Kyosho M24 Caliber. they are so much better than floppy stocks, and with those blades and head stiffener not only I don't have any vibrations whatsoever, but the hover is so stable now that it seems like a heli is just frozen in one point in the air, with the blades forming one thin sharp line. also since those M24 blades have less pitch the headspeed now increased and I totally got rid of that nasty wobble at low headspeeds with stocks.

Link? I'm nterested in the Kyosho blades, c2po - let me know where you found them. :) God bless - "Rare"

#2989 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 04, 2006 09:17 PM

Wow check it out who would have believed this thread is still going at 200 pages and still has alot of the same people still posting and fielding questions for the new people coming into the hobby. This is truly a great bunch of people all in the same place and mostly on the same page with the best as I see it little heli out there. It sure has brought alot of pleasure and stress free flying. I think I will always have a FP in my fleet its just to much fun to give up.

#2990 c2po Dec 04, 2006 09:25 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Rare Bear Link? I'm nterested in the Kyosho blades, c2po - let me know where you found them. :) well, unfortunately the link is ebay.com :rolleyes: someone here said they are popping there every once in a while, so they popped, I grabbed, that's it. :D

#2991 crazhorse Dec 04, 2006 09:29 PM you can get the m24 blades here: http://www.shopatron.com/product/pr...12259.12300.0.0

#2992 Wren1702 Dec 04, 2006 09:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bod001 I try and check out this thread most days as its a superb wealth of knowledge with some great hints and tips and i thought i would like to add some comments on the whole weight issue and as mentioned earlier the tinkering part of owning and flying one of these great little helicopters. I have had nitro r/c cars for several years but got bored so bought the honey bee fp. In my few months of flying one of these have gone down the path of making it as light as possible, if i remember correctly i think it wieghed about 260g at one point. Now it flew great but was like a kite and especially with the weather like it is where i am in the uk i felt it was a real handfull outside and cant really fly it inside. Classing myself as i bit of a tinkerer i have added the superskids a twin tail and the kyosho m24 blades and soon started to realise the whole powere to weight issue, but have added more power by going for the grapner speed 300 motor and 12c lipos and it now flies more stable and is so much easier if there is a breeze than it ever did when it was light. The batts are 1350mAh 12c lipos which are 65g that with the twin tail balances perfectly. The overal respose and climb rate is amazing. The rtf weight is now 325g it still flies fantastic and i have learnt a whole lot in the process of how model helicopters work which i think is conditioning me for something cp in the future. The added weight make it more likely to break something in a crash but the parts are so cheap! If you have some spare cash and want to experiment then its great fun if you dont then leave it stock and its still great. I also play golf and i know which is still the cheaper hobby(with those new clubs i will be able to hit it 10feet further!!!!) Sorry its a bit long just wanted to add some of my thoughts.

Did you you use the stock pinion on the Graupner motor?

#2993 crazhorse Dec 04, 2006 10:02 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bod001 I am using the M24 blades with a 6v graupner speed 300 motor with 10t pinion and 7.4v 8c lipo's and the FP flies amazing. Half throttle and she hovers with no probs. The response is much improved and handles the wind alot better, much more stable and no vibrations can take thumbs off controls and she will hover on her own. Very little pitch up in FF and extremely fast. he is/was using a 10t ...... I have a graupner on the way to try out, since going to the m24s not enough power with my present setup. Dont really want to go brushless on my fp so hopefully this'll work.

#2994 black_box Dec 04, 2006 10:05 PM so the M24 blades provide more stability, but at a higher head speed = more potential for damage in a crash? does that make them not newb-friendly? (i'm thinking this would be my backup set of blades)

#2995 crazhorse Dec 04, 2006 10:07 PM well the good thing about these fp helis is that when you break them the parts are dirt cheap...... so fixing them, and most repairs can be done with CA, isnt too expensive.

#2996 bod001 Dec 04, 2006 10:39 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box so the M24 blades provide more stability, but at a higher head speed = more potential for damage in a crash? does that make them not newb-friendly? (i'm thinking this would be my backup set of blades)

Yeah more damage but only the flybars and paddle control frame really ever breaks and as my skill level has gone up i have not broke anything for ages. I just make sure i have plenty of spares. i started to tinker once i was comfortable with hovering and some forward flight. I am still using a 10t pinion. i added heatsinks to the mosfets and driled holes in the 4 in 1 for cooling as i noticed it got warm when i added the graupner motor.

#2997 jsy nobby Dec 05, 2006 12:46 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Black Box, the Super Landing gear has mixed reviews. Its robust but very heavy. I support the view expressed earlier in the thread that you are better off staying light and giving the super anchor (sorry landing gear) a miss. Andy, what pinion do you have on that thing? :eek:

A 10t from a stock motor....I know it's a heavy copter....It gets kind of windy here in Jersey and there's normally always a breeze and I built my brushless FP with outdoor flying in mind...I have to say,it does fly very well even with me at the sticks! The only thing that gets a little warm is the battery at the end of its charge,but then again,something might go bang and it'll all go tits up and I'll have to shell out some money(again!) Batteries with more capacity are next on the list..... -Andy

#2998 Rare Bear Dec 05, 2006 01:10 AM

Just put in 3 packs w/ my little FP - man, is this thing fun! My nose-in is skills are really sharpening up, and the piro's I've been having fun w/ have been a real learning experience as well - just love it! My skills still need a lot of work when it comes to nose in turns at any type of velocity, but w/ another dozen packs I should be really having fun!! This heli is just a kick in the pants - cheap, easy, fun & durable!! Gotta love the Honeybee FP!! :D God bless - "Rare"

#2999 Gino CP Dec 05, 2006 01:45 AM

Yes it is getting interesting ei. I am into mild funnels now. Edgy stuff hehe. After a few I'm pumped up.

#3000 Wren1702 Dec 05, 2006 01:58 AM

Post number 3000!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry, I couldn't help myself! :o :o :)

#3001 mem Dec 05, 2006 02:58 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Wren1702 Post number 3000!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry, I couldn't help myself! :o :o :) Wren1702, thanks for getting this going :)

#3002 crxef9 Dec 05, 2006 03:46 AM do you guys track your blades? i come from a cp bird so i wonder if the word tracking the blades means the same thing here . thanks , and how do u guys ensure it track well? is there any adjustment links?

#3003 Pwog Dec 05, 2006 04:39 AM

Unfortunately you have to twist more pitch into them.

#3004 Pwog Dec 05, 2006 04:42 AM

Has this group tried blades from the other fixed pitch heli's? The Night Ranger 2 blades might work on the Honeybee fp or possibly the blades from a Hughes 300. The GWS blades get the most mention.

#3005 crxef9 Dec 05, 2006 06:48 AM twist more pitch into them? will they retain the shape or needs to be done on every flight?

#3006 crazhorse Dec 05, 2006 07:13 AM every time they go out of track they need to be twisted...... on my fixed pitch helis, just about everytime. Sometimes they dont need it though.

#3007 gfdengine204 Dec 05, 2006 01:27 PM

OK Got my HB yesterday (thank you FedEx), and realized I may want more than just one battery (I know, dummy me, remember I am a rookie pilot). Anyway, it came with the NiMH battery and charger, and I figure that is fine while I learn. My question (finally :) ) is: how can I be sure I get a compatable battery for my heli? Do I make sure the voltage and mAh are the same? I just want to make sure I get one that fits the stock holder. (I plan on ordering a replacement flybar and landing gear also, just to be prepared. Any other suggestions to start out?)

#3008 mem Dec 05, 2006 02:17 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 My question (finally :) ) is: how can I be sure I get a compatable battery for my heli? Any other suggestions to start out?) I was going to recommend BPHobbies but I see they are out of stock of the Esky FP batteries. So many people have moved on from Nickel to Lithium that you may be able to do a deal for a pack from someone on this thread. If anyone does have a good but unneeded NiMH pack then send a PM to gfdengine204. I would, but the postage from London would be deal breaker.

#3009 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 05, 2006 02:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 OK Got my HB yesterday (thank you FedEx), and realized I may want more than just one battery (I know, dummy me, remember I am a rookie pilot). Anyway, it came with the NiMH battery and charger, and I figure that is fine while I learn. My question (finally :) ) is: how can I be sure I get a compatable battery for my heli? Do I make sure the voltage and mAh are the same? I just want to make sure I get one that fits the stock holder. (I plan on ordering a replacement flybar and landing gear also, just to be prepared. Any other suggestions to start out?) Heres where you can get the best nicads I had when I was using them http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-HELICOPTER- D...3QQcmdZViewItem check back a few pages there is a list of spare parts that you should have on hand. The Esky packs were the weakest packs that I had I had two of these packs and they were really good. Best of luck with your flying.

#3010 gfdengine204 Dec 05, 2006 03:38 PM

OK thanks! I checked the eBay site, and that looks like a pretty decent price. My battery that came with the heli was a 7.4V, and those are 8.4V. Is there a maximum voltage I can go to? I am guessing from what I have been reading there is some latatude as to what battery sizes I can use for my HB. I just want to make sure I dont fry it before I get to fly it. :)

#3011 DangerBird Dec 05, 2006 03:53 PM

You should get the 'DELUXE' spare parts kit for $41 from BPHobbies. http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?i...062&pid=W289468 They just went out of stock though :mad: but I have several of these as hanger queens. If you purchase the chopper as parts it comes up to ~$125 and thats just the airframe! :eek: Also I am now using the new Max Power 15C 2S 850mah batteries and they are heads and shoulders above the Commonsense (which are good for this heli). Much less voltage sag and are only a few dollars more. :cool: Still flying my HB FP everyday while my CP machines I have are collecting dust. :) Love this chopper! -Mike

#3012 JustPlaneChris Dec 05, 2006 04:11 PM

Hey Mike, long time no talk! :) Are those Max Power batteries the ones that Helidirect sells? I have a feeling my CSRC packs may be nearing EOL, after 6 months of continuous duty. I may check out these new packs when the time comes to get new ones. -Chris

#3013 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 05, 2006 05:12 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 OK thanks! I checked the eBay site, and that looks like a pretty decent price. My battery that came with the heli was a 7.4V, and those are 8.4V. Is there a maximum voltage I can go to? I am guessing from what I have been reading there is some latatude as to what battery sizes I can use for my HB. I just want to make sure I dont fry it before I get to fly it. :) Did you get the fp2 or mk3 with lipos the nicads that come with the fp2 are 8.4 nicads. Nicads come in 7.2 then 8.4 then 9.6 each step is .8 of a volt and 1 battery added to the pack. The esc on a honey bee will handle 11.1 volts just to be safe do the fuse mod in case of a crash.

#3014 gfdengine204 Dec 05, 2006 05:16 PM

Well, I got the HoneyBee IV from www.xheli.com, and now that I think about it, it must be the 8.4 (I am at work, heli is at home). It came with the NiMH and the charger. I just ordered 3 packs from the eBay site you listed; not sure I need to get Li-Po's yet. Figure I can step up when I either kill these batteries or upgrade to another heli. Thanks much to everyone! Sorry for the simple questions!

#3015 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 05, 2006 05:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 Well, I got the HoneyBee IV from www.xheli.com, and now that I think about it, it must be the 8.4 (I am at work, heli is at home). It came with the NiMH and the charger. I just ordered 3 packs from the eBay site you listed; not sure I need to get Li-Po's yet. Figure I can step up when I either kill these batteries or upgrade to another heli. Thanks much to everyone! Sorry for the simple questions! You will be happy with those nicads they were much better than the stock Esky batterys I got with my FP. They are a good price and brian doesn't charge any more for the shipping buy 1 or 5 same shipping. I passed those batterys on to my son in law he's getting into the hobby to with a fp we put togeather from parts. Yours is a regular FP they call it a four for 4 channel a ploy to get rid of old stock but you still got a real good deal.

#3016 DangerBird Dec 05, 2006 05:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Hey Mike, long time no talk! :) Are those Max Power batteries the ones that Helidirect sells? I have a feeling my CSRC packs may be nearing EOL, after 6 months of continuous duty. I may check out these new packs when the time comes to get new ones. -Chris

Hi Chris, Yes, those are the ones from Heli Direct. I got 2ea of the 2S 850 12C (square style pack) and the 15C (chewing gum pack style form factor) and they are about a 15% improvement over the CS packs (which are fine) The key factor is much less voltage sag at WOT! They are also the exact same weight as the CS 8C and 10C packs. Now that I have these new packs, the CS have taken a back seat and only get used after I use the 4 new ones. :eek: They really came to life after about 5 cycles and seem to stay balanced better than the CS batteries. They also provide more punch on the high speed passes and slamming it into a hover. Funnels are also easier to do with the extra power. I think you will like them! :) -Mike

#3017 JustPlaneChris Dec 05, 2006 05:37 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird They also provide more punch on the high speed passes and slamming it into a hover. Funnels are also easier to do with the extra power. I think you will like them! :) Sounds like a good deal! I'll definitely give them a try when I need more batteries for the FP. :) -Chris

#3018 corwyn Dec 05, 2006 07:31 PM

Wow...looks like I have 202 pages to read... I ordered an FP2 from the xheli deal, and it should be here next week sometime, I'd guess. So I'll soon join the club ;) Maybe it was a dumb idea to move up from a coaxial helo so quickly (I've had a Blade CX for about 3 weeks now), but I couldn't pass up the $90 deal, plus some extra blades, hub, tail rotor, skids, etc... Reading the first couple of pages and last couple of pages, I guess I should get those super skids and some LiPos. Any words of wisdom for someone moving from a coax to an FP? With my BCX, I can hover tail-in pretty well, side-in is ok, and I'm working on nose-in. I did my first nose-in landing (inside of a 12" square on a rug in my livingroom) last night, and my other attempts were all pretty close (an 18" square would have done it). I still sometimes panic if I'm nose-in and my helo heads towards something, but I'm working on being as gentle on the controls as I am with tail-in.

#3019 JustPlaneChris Dec 05, 2006 08:12 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn Reading the first couple of pages and last couple of pages, I guess I should get those super skids and some LiPos. I'd personally pass up the super skids. They are heavy, and weight is the mortal enemy of these micro helis. Quote: Any words of wisdom for someone moving from a coax to an FP? It sounds like you're ready to move up. Just be prepared for the FP to be a bit more "squirrelly" than the CX. :) -Chris

#3020 mwood4494 Dec 05, 2006 08:36 PM

Super Skids

Hmmm...... was just about to order the super skids.... I've switched to Lipos so lessened weight from the original batteries, do you think the super skids would be too heavy? Could they offer a little more stability? Are there any motor upgrades that would allow for this addition with little or no impact to performance?

#3021 mwood4494 Dec 05, 2006 08:42 PM

First crash with damage!!

Dang!!!....Just got hovering (tail on not head on) down good and my HB wigged out and shot left with no input from me???? Broke a ball off of the rotor head set :( Oh well.....numerous crashes, cheap fix I guess.... Thats one great thing about this bird...DURABLE!!!!

#3022 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 05, 2006 09:10 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mwood4494 Dang!!!....Just got hovering (tail on not head on) down good and my HB wigged out and shot left with no input from me???? Broke a ball off of the rotor head set :( Oh well.....numerous crashes, cheap fix I guess.... Thats one great thing about this bird...DURABLE!!!! Use the ca and thread trick till you get replacement parts. That is if you still have the ball glue it back on with ca superglue than wrap thread around the connecting point than put ca on the thread you will be good to go till your new parts get there.

#3023 mwood4494 Dec 05, 2006 09:13 PM

Ahhh...I'll give that a try!!! Thanks for the tip! :)

#3024 Wren1702 Dec 05, 2006 09:20 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris I'd personally pass up the super skids. They are heavy, and weight is the mortal enemy of these micro helis. It sounds like you're ready to move up. Just be prepared for the FP to be a bit more "squirrelly" than the CX. :) -Chris

I ran Super Skids for a long time and was happy with them. Then one weekend I flew a completly stock HB of my friends, shot up like a rocket on liftoff! My Super Skids came off within an hour and haven't been back on.

#3025 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 05, 2006 09:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Wren1702 I ran Super Skids for a long time and was happy with them. Then one weekend I flew a completly stock HB of my friends, shot up like a rocket on liftoff! My Super Skids came off within an hour and haven't been back on.

Don't have any input on the super skids never used them and I am not going to start now. I JUST WANTED TO THANK YOU FOR STARTING THIS THREAD WHAT A STROKE OF GENIUS LOTS OF GREAT INFORMATION and a great teaching tool for all that follow.

#3026 mem Dec 05, 2006 09:27 PM

Super Skids

I have run the super skids with a brushless motor to try and compensate for the weight (I do really like the looks and robustness), but frankly, even without the unnecessary tail supports they add 20 grams that the HB is much better off without. True, this extra weight is down low so it may slightly dampen the pendulum motion that most beginners have at first. But learning to deal with that is part of learning to fly. My experience was that however cool the skids look, the heli (stock or brushless, NiMH or LiPo) flies much better without them.

#3027 mwood4494 Dec 05, 2006 09:50 PM

Great....Thats why I'm always in this thread..Great info from experts!!! Thanks agin for starting this as it's proven to help all new owner of the HB FP

#3028 crxef9 Dec 05, 2006 10:03 PM im still confused on the tracking for these fp , are u suppose to bend the lower blade or the higher ones? and are the manual included an good?

#3029 crazhorse Dec 05, 2006 10:06 PM you can do either blade, twist more pitch into the lower or less into the higher depending on which way you twist the blade......

#3030 JustPlaneChris Dec 05, 2006 10:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 im still confused on the tracking for these fp , are u suppose to bend the lower blade or the higher ones? and are the manual included an good? For the most part, you just bend whichever one you feel like bending (in the appropriate direction, of course). Once I switched to "through bolts" and added the stiffener, I haven't had to touch the stock blades. They just track perfectly. The GWS blades (being softer and more bendy) tend to flex out of shape and go out of track easier. The manual is the same one E-Sky sends with all their helis. It's only good for a laugh as you try to interpret what some of the "Engrish" really means. :rolleyes: -Chris

#3031 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 05, 2006 10:11 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 im still confused on the tracking for these fp , are u suppose to bend the lower blade or the higher ones? and are the manual included an good? Bend them both till they track. You haven't figger it out yet this is your manual. The manual is very basic and you have to be able to read and understand chinglish.

#3032 Tweekster Dec 05, 2006 10:19 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn Wow...looks like I have 202 pages to read... I ordered an FP2 from the xheli deal, and it should be here next week sometime, I'd guess. So I'll soon join the club ;) Maybe it was a dumb idea to move up from a coaxial helo so quickly (I've had a Blade CX for about 3 weeks now), but I couldn't pass up the $90 deal, plus some extra blades, hub, tail rotor, skids, etc... Reading the first couple of pages and last couple of pages, I guess I should get those super skids and some LiPos. Any words of wisdom for someone moving from a coax to an FP? With my BCX, I can hover tail-in pretty well, side-in is ok, and I'm working on nose-in. I did my first nose-in landing (inside of a 12" square on a rug in my livingroom) last night, and my other attempts were all pretty close (an 18" square would have done it). I still sometimes panic if I'm nose-in and my helo heads towards something, but I'm working on being as gentle on the controls as I am with tail-in.

Corwyn, I started on a CX, and just picked up a FP (@ xHeli). Get the Blade CP/CP2 battery tray and you can use your CX LiPo's, which are a nice upgrade. Probably the only upgrade you really need for awhile. Helidirect has several 850mAH Lipo's for a good price. This FP is alot of fun!

#3033 jsy nobby Dec 05, 2006 10:44 PM nuff already...

OK!OK! , I get the point.....the super skids are going....they're coming off right now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D :D :D :D

#3034 corwyn Dec 05, 2006 10:48 PM

Thanks for the tips, guys. I'll hold off on the Super Skids for now, and it's great that I can use my CX's LiPo's. And maybe I jinxed myself with my post earlier, or maybe my CX is jealous of being replaced... It was all kinds of squirrelly this evening, and really resistant to staying in trim. It's really weird...I'll plug it in, and it'll be spinning and drifting like mad. Then I power cycle it a couple of times and it behaves much better. I think one of my big problems with flying nose or side in is remembering to add throttle when using the right stick...with a slight input from the right stick, if I don't add a bit of throttle, the CX practically falls out of the air. I think I'm concentrating too hard on rotating my mind's x-y axes, and I forget the throttle control... Oh yeah, and flying it upstairs (where there's a steeply slanted ceiling) was a bad idea when I got just a little too far to the left (i.e.-towards the ceiling). Shredded two upper blades and tore the canopy. :( Ah well...another week to practice before the FP gets here, anyway ;)

#3035 DangerBird Dec 05, 2006 11:08 PM corwyn, What was the shipping $$ like at xheli? I can't get enough of this little chopper and its cheap replacement parts. I currently have 2 NIB airframes and a complete 2nd one and will likely get a 3rd one. :eek: I am using my Eclipse transmitter which works alot better (for me) than the stock xmitter (which is fine) and BP hobbies now carries a full line of Esky crystals dirt cheap so I am now on my regular channel. The only broken parts over the last few months have been the landing gear from hanger rash (improper handling on the ground) and a flybar when some 2 year old came out of nowhere and I ditched the chopper to keep from hitting him. :mad: Mine is stock except for the battery and see no need to change a thing. I do not use a head stiffiner but am using a Century head (hummingbird I think) which is a bit stronger than the orginal. FF is fine and I do not see the coning issues with the Century head. We clocked this thing flat out at 28mph :eek: with a radar gun. Got nearly 200 flights out of the stock tailmotor and a little over that with the main. No complaints! :) -Mike

#3036 corwyn Dec 05, 2006 11:22 PM

Price Drop!!! New 2006 ESKY004A 1 89.95 ESKY HoneyBee #4 Radio Remote Controlled RC Electric Helicopter RTF (Shipped) Tail rotor blade EK1-0219 1 2.06 (Shipped) Center hub set EK1-0203 1 9.49 (Shipped) Main blade EK1-0202 1 9.50 (Shipped) Skid set EK1-0239 1 4.54 (Shipped) Flybar EK10204 1 2.06 (Shipped) Subtotal 117.60 Shipping 13.03 Tax 0.00 Total 130.63 EDIT: sorry,that formatted really badly...hopefully you can still decipher it.

#3037 crxef9 Dec 06, 2006 04:02 AM thanks mrmuffinman , cause in my mind all i've flown for the past 3 months is my cp2. so i cant imagine how do u track on an fp =)

#3038 DangerBird Dec 06, 2006 04:11 AM

Lopped off about 3/16" off each blade tip and what a nice improvement! Higher head speed and it seems more stable in a hover. Been restricted under the street light out in front of the house so I couldn't wring it out. :eek: Thanks for the shipping charge report from xheli corwyn. Thats a great deal at $90! Cripes, the 4-in-1 is $60 alone! Throw in the servo's and the rest of the chopper is free! :) No such thing as too many spares... -Mike

#3039 tashley Dec 06, 2006 12:29 PM

When tracking fp blades, use a little heat from a heat gun and twist the high blade to conform to the low blade. High head speed is a must for these fp helis.

#3040 black_box Dec 06, 2006 01:57 PM what size carbon rod and tube would be useful for this thing? 2mm rod for the flybar, anything else? going to order some to fix up my PiccoZ and figured I'd get it at the same time. So is the complete spare airframe the way to go if i'm just starting out? or that + extra parts?

#3041 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 06, 2006 02:11 PM

A complete barebones kit is the easy way to have every part you could need and some extra skids and paddle control frame a set of both links should keep you going for a long time.

#3042 mem Dec 06, 2006 02:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box what size carbon rod and tube would be useful for this thing? 2mm rod for the flybar, anything else? going to order some to fix up my PiccoZ and figured I'd get it at the same time. So is the complete spare airframe the way to go if i'm just starting out? or that + extra parts? 2mm is good for the flybar and skids, can’t think of anything else CF that is easily broken. The complete airframe is a bargain if you are likely to break lots of stuff. And if you don’t then its always a good base to build another FP or convert to a CP :) . I was able to repair everything that broke while learning with the 2mm CF. But having the airframe around did give me some comfort while learning because if anything critical did break, I knew I would not have to wait for parts in the mail.

#3043 Wren1702 Dec 06, 2006 02:42 PM

Mem, Have you converted a FP into a CP? If so, what all was involved?

#3044 awalk Dec 06, 2006 03:33 PM

Repair question: I broke the small ball off the Paddle Control Frame, repaired it with super glue and thread (new to all this, waiting on some CA). It was not set very strait or solid but still worked for another 1.5 packs. So, the small ball joint looks very fragile, should i thread and glue the new part to add some support or is this a "meant to break" point that i should leave as is? PS - i have spent hours reading back through the year on this thread, I would not have known how to even turn this thing on without all the info here! :-)

#3045 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 06, 2006 03:50 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by awalk Repair question: I broke the small ball off the Paddle Control Frame, repaired it with super glue and thread (new to all this, waiting on some CA). It was not set very strait or solid but still worked for another 1.5 packs. So, the small ball joint looks very fragile, should i thread and glue the new part to add some support or is this a "meant to break" point that i should leave as is? PS - i have spent hours reading back through the year on this thread, I would not have known how to even turn this thing on without all the info here! :-)

I do the ca and thread trick on the small balls on the paddle control frame before I even put them on the heli just because they are so fragile. This is a real weak point and the links should pop off before the ball does but thats not how it works in the real world.

#3046 EchoSix Dec 06, 2006 04:17 PM

Does anyone know if there are other canopies that fit the HB fp2? I think I saw someone post that they used a Blade canopy, are there others? Thanks, EchoSix

#3047 mem Dec 06, 2006 04:27 PM

1 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by Wren1702 Mem, Have you converted a FP into a CP? If so, what all was involved? My conversion from FP to CP was a little unusual. It started with a barebones FP that I converted to brushless FP. I had used a CP 4 in 1 on this FP but I am not sure there really is much of a difference between the CP and FP units. The new components required to make this into a CP were a servo of the same type as the existing ones (I am using HS-55), all of the head components including the main shaft and all linkages, and a transmitter that can do the CCPM mixing (I am using an Optic 6) I priced the individual head components and decided that it was more cost affective to buy a CP barebones. I transferred the two FP servos and mounted the new one to the CP Barebones, transferred the 4 in 1 and programmed my TX for CCPM. Because I am running brushless I also transferred my brushless motor and ESC. edit: added picture.

#3048 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 06, 2006 05:45 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by EchoSix Does anyone know if there are other canopies that fit the HB fp2? I think I saw someone post that they used a Blade canopy, are there others? Thanks, EchoSix There are many canopy's that will fit you just need to size them up drill some holes fit the mounting rubbers and off you go.I just mounted a Walkera DF60 canopy on mine and it looks good. The blade canopy is the same deal drill some holes and mount it .

#3049 pmui Dec 06, 2006 07:38 PM

Question ofr the people who purchase a HB FP from Xheli. Does the kit come with a SIM cable for the transmitter? Will the transmitter accept a SIM cable. Thanks, Peter

#3050 Tweekster Dec 06, 2006 08:31 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by pmui Question ofr the people who purchase a HB FP from Xheli. Does the kit come with a SIM cable for the transmitter? Will the transmitter accept a SIM cable. Thanks, Peter

Peter, No SIM cable, but it does have the round jack for one.

#3051 corwyn Dec 06, 2006 08:38 PM

I found these for the E-sky 4-channel radio: http://www.heli-fever.com/advanced_...+cable&x=9&y=10 http://www.milehighwings.com/usb_cables.htm Note that I don't own either of these (heck, I don't even have the helo yet), so I have no idea how well they work.

#3052 taylorcraft078 Dec 06, 2006 11:31 PM

You can also roll your own. I built one last weekend for an older airtronics transmitter that I had laying around. I found a link to diagrams at http://www.heliguy.com/nexus/fmsinterface.html. I don't remember an ESky but my transmitter should be here tomorrow and I can toss a scope on the buddy box connector this weekend to try to figure out the 2 pins that you need. Dave

#3053 Gino CP Dec 06, 2006 11:55 PM

I learned using a sim and a Logitech Rumblepad 2 gamepad. The only difference is that the gamepad's throttle springs to center. But it educated me nonetheless. After a month of that, I did a month of Radd. Now I do flyouts on a daily (hourly!) basis.

#3054 Mortor Dec 07, 2006 03:32 AM

So does anyone know a Canadian source for the HB II? The closest my LHS has is the Night Ranger. Tempted to order from Xheli but I'm not too sure about shipping across the border. Mort.

#3055 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 07, 2006 03:57 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Mortor So does anyone know a Canadian source for the HB II? The closest my LHS has is the Night Ranger. Tempted to order from Xheli but I'm not too sure about shipping across the border. Mort.

Google it.

#3056 crxef9 Dec 07, 2006 04:46 AM questions guys , how tight is too tight on an FP blades? mine just came in today but my lipos are not here yet so have to make do with the nimh

#3057 mem Dec 07, 2006 05:25 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 questions guys , how tight is too tight on an FP blades? mine just came in today but my lipos are not here yet so have to make do with the nimh

Too tight is when stuff breaks off the head every time your blades hit something. :) I set mine tight enough that they don’t fold under their own weight when the heli is held on its side with the blades parallel with the ground, but the blades begin to fold with a good shake.

#3058 Pwog Dec 07, 2006 06:17 AM

Shipping into Canada should be fine it just takes a little longer and costs a couple of bucks for duties/brokerage. If you live close to the border it's better to jump across and pick it up at at a shipping/po box outfit like "ship happens" Also try to get a tracking number.

#3059 crxef9 Dec 07, 2006 06:23 AM hey guys , well i dont know if this is considered as a problem or not. This is my first flight on my fp , coming from the cp2 , i felt this bird is very sluggish and it takes so much right stick throw for it to do anything. Other than removing the weights on the fly bar what else can increase the cyclic response. ( wish i could dial in some -ve expo on it he he ) and forgot to add this is also on the nimh batteries cause my lipos are not in yet from csrc.

#3060 TooTall Dec 07, 2006 07:55 AM

"This is my first flight on my fp , coming from the cp2 , i felt this bird is very sluggish and it takes so much right stick throw for it to do anything". Try moving your aileron lingage out one more hole ...I am using an arm that has 4 holes in it and my linkage is all the way out to the end...I have removed the flybar weights and now it is to my liking.....still some what slower than my CP helis but I am having a blast with this FP ..I got the barebones airframe with stock motors and put in my own electrics ..I have a light weight system that flys wonderful...Tom

#3061 mem Dec 07, 2006 09:25 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 Other than removing the weights on the fly bar what else can increase the cyclic response. A tip suggested earlier in the thread is to use the longer arms on the upper swash plate. Temporarily disconnect the two links connecting the upper swash plate to the flybar and rotate the upper swash by 90 degrees. Reconnect the links to the longer arms and you will get more collective response.

#3062 sedohr Dec 07, 2006 02:44 PM

Who Needs an Xbox 360?

OK, sorry 'bout the (somewhat) deceptive title...... :p Found this stupid little addictive game on helihobby's site and wanted to fwd it on.... http://www.helihobby.com/html/helicopter_game.html good for the month of december as things (hopefully) wind down a bit at work for awhile...... Randy

#3063 gluneedit Dec 07, 2006 04:34 PM

I am considering an indoor FP heli, and I am really inetrested in the HB FP and may be micron V2. The only other heli I've owned id the coaxial micromosquito which I bought a couple of weeks ago. My question is , i have lots of questions, and is reading all these 200 pages the only way to do it. :D...or is there a summary of basic things some where ? Thanks. My plan is to buy the heli, the cable to attach it to a sim, like the following http://www.heli-fever.com/advanced_...+cable&x=9&y=10 Any other place that sells this for chaper ?

#3064 gfdengine204 Dec 07, 2006 04:39 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gluneedit I am considering an indoor FP heli, and I am really inetrested in the HB FP and may be micron V2. The only other heli I've owned id the coaxial micromosquito which I bought a couple of weeks ago. My question is , i have lots of questions, and is reading all these 200 pages the only way to do it. :D...or is there a summary of basic things some where ? Thanks. My plan is to buy the heli, the cable to attach it to a sim, like the following http://www.heli-fever.com/advanced_...+cable&x=9&y=10 Any other place that sells this for chaper ?

I just got my HoneyBee FP from www.xheli.com for $89.95. I haven't seen it cheaper anywhere else, though it does come with a NiMH battery/charger, no LiPOs. For me, being my first heli, I don't have a problem using NiMH to start. No troubles with xheli.com for me, though I know there have been concerns about the people running that outfit. Just my experience. Hope this helps!

#3065 gluneedit Dec 07, 2006 04:50 PM

Yeah that is an excellent price, I have to get it...it comes with a NiMH charger too, cool. You think I need to fly a sim for this ?...I've only flawn the MM which is a coaxial heli and hovers on it's own ? What spares should I get ?, Thanks. (Being a newbie yourself, you may be able to answer this, THANKS) Does it sort of fly well out of the box ? P.S: I read some where here saying 2-cell lipo is the only mod needed to get the best of this FP heli, cool,...that sound awesome.

#3066 gluneedit Dec 07, 2006 04:58 PM

Damn, the thing comes with the USB cable too, COOOL,...I could use the free sim to learn hovering and it should be enough right ? Also, I can't read the whole 200 pages by evening, should I just read post's, and would that give most of the info a newbie needs ? How long does it take X-heli to deliver to the USA Thanks

#3067 crazhorse Dec 07, 2006 05:07 PM xheli is in california, I got a blackhawk 3d from them here while back...... normal ups shipping time.

#3068 pmui Dec 07, 2006 05:12 PM do you mean heli-fever is non US. I think xheli is US. I'm also interested in getting the cable for the sim.

#3069 crxef9 Dec 07, 2006 05:21 PM tooTall: the linkage on mine is at the outer most hole already =\ , mem: i'll try with the swash u said hope i get better response thansk

#3070 gfdengine204 Dec 07, 2006 05:59 PM

[QUOTE=gluneedit]Damn, the thing comes with the USB cable too, COOOL,...I could use the free sim to learn hovering and it should be enough right ?/QUOTE] I have been using the FMS for a week now, and just bought the ClearView sim, which looks even better. Monday my HB came and, while I have taken it out of the box to drool over it, I have yet to even charge the battery. I don't want to try flying it until I get some decent simulator time in. Even if I got it out with the intention of just spooling it up to try a quick light-skid "feel", I know that it would be extremely tempting to just pop the throttle and see what I can do with her. I guess what I am trying to say it, just learning to hover in the sim may prove extremely easy, and be somewhat misleading. Learn to do more than just hover. I have so much to learn (tail-in, side-in, nose-in, etc) that I figure winter is a good time to learn without having to buy spare parts right away. :rolleyes: I think of it like NASA: lots and lots of simulator, always remembering "perfect practice makes perfect execution".

#3071 pmui Dec 07, 2006 07:10 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gluneedit Damn, the thing comes with the USB cable too, COOOL,...I could use the free sim to learn hovering and it should be enough right ? Also, I can't read the whole 200 pages by evening, should I just read post's, and would that give most of the info a newbie needs ? How long does it take X-heli to deliver to the USA Thanks

Who did you order the heli. from?

#3072 jsy nobby Dec 07, 2006 07:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 [QUOTE=gluneedit]Damn, the thing comes with the USB cable too, COOOL,...I could use the free sim to learn hovering and it should be enough right ?/QUOTE] I have been using the FMS for a week now, and just bought the ClearView sim, which looks even better. Monday my HB came and, while I have taken it out of the box to drool over it, I have yet to even charge the battery. I don't want to try flying it until I get some decent simulator time in. Even if I got it out with the intention of just spooling it up to try a quick light-skid "feel", I know that it would be extremely tempting to just pop the throttle and see what I can do with her. I guess what I am trying to say it, just learning to hover in the sim may prove extremely easy, and be somewhat misleading. Learn to do more than just hover. I have so much to learn (tail-in, side-in, nose-in, etc) that I figure winter is a good time to learn without having to buy spare parts right away. :rolleyes: I think of it like NASA: lots and lots of simulator, always remembering "perfect practice makes perfect execution".

If I were you mon ami,I'd open the box, charge up the battery and give her a go...I had to learn to fly with my copter...I've got some drivers missing on my PC and could'nt get a sim to work at all,in the end I got so bummed out ,I gave in and tried to fly....Have a read through Radd's school of rotary flight,I found this very helpful http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html ,even though I'd already learned to hover by the time I got to reading it! I found that you get a better feel for your model with your fingers flying the real thing,rather than a CG one...that's just me though...order a few spares,you're gonna need 'em soon enough! :D -Andy

#3073 shamrock Dec 07, 2006 07:24 PM

Smoked 4 in 1

I'm in the "learn to hover" stage. This morning, I had a tail strike and smoked the 4 in 1. I have a GWS 2 amp ESC that would probably replace the stock tail ESC IF I knew where to connect it. I took the 4 in 1 apart but without a schematic, I'm pretty much lost. Anyone with some ideas? Another possibility is to go seperates. I have all the parts and pieces on hand. I've searched and found several CCPM setups that work with 6 channel receivers. I simply want to use the the stock brushed motors and a way to control the tail. Again, anyone with some ideas? Appreciate any and all help.

#3074 jsy nobby Dec 07, 2006 07:30 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by shamrock I'm in the "learn to hover" stage. This morning, I had a tail strike and smoked the 4 in 1. I have a GWS 2 amp ESC that would probably replace the stock tail ESC IF I knew where to connect it. I took the 4 in 1 apart but without a schematic, I'm pretty much lost. Anyone with some ideas? Another possibility is to go seperates. I have all the parts and pieces on hand. I've searched and found several CCPM setups that work with 6 channel receivers. I simply want to use the the stock brushed motors and a way to control the tail. Again, anyone with some ideas? Appreciate any and all help.

Have a look at this,might help. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...light=ssg+scott Also posted by Scott is the fuse mod...stops 4-in1's frying apparently... -Andy

#3075 7AC Dec 07, 2006 07:46 PM

Back in Oct I made a mis-step and went directly from a Blade CX to a HBCP2. After many crashes, much frustration and literally hundreds of dollars in parts for a bird that currently is refusing to fly I happened upon this forum. My HBFP arrived yesterday. It almost hovered out of the box. The fuse mods, a popsicle stiffener, and two heat sinks and I can already fly it better than I ever did the CP2. I hope to be nose-in by spring. What joy! I got mine for $89 in five days from Raiden Tech. I agree with Nobby, follow Radd and you'll be much further down the road than you can get on sim time alone.

#3076 jgoodwin Dec 07, 2006 07:59 PM

Timing advance Amp draw and tail control

HI guys, I have to catch up. I am back reading posts in the 190's somewhere. Anyway... Well, I have advanced my timing on my motor to a few differnt settings and have even gone back to stock setting inbetween. I have found that if I advance the timing I do get more power. So much so that it usually breaks GE even up to the point the tail starts to wag becuase the batteries are going flat. BUT, I have noticed that if I advance the timing by much more than 1 to 2mm the tail spins hard to the right (nose to the left) when I give throttle up from a hover. I think that what is happening is that the main motor is taking such a high amperage draw that there is not enough for the tail motor to counteract the torque of the main blades. This is probably componded by my use of used 650 and 700mAh NiMH packs. I am getting lipos for Christmas (and I am 34?), but at 800mAh I am not sure they will help is it is the higher amp draw that is causing it? I am able to compensate enough to fly enjoyably but I wondered what you guys though? Jay

#3077 jsy nobby Dec 07, 2006 08:18 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jgoodwin HI guys, I have to catch up. I am back reading posts in the 190's somewhere. Anyway... Well, I have advanced my timing on my motor to a few differnt settings and have even gone back to stock setting inbetween. I have found that if I advance the timing I do get more power. So much so that it usually breaks GE even up to the point the tail starts to wag becuase the batteries are going flat. BUT, I have noticed that if I advance the timing by much more than 1 to 2mm the tail spins hard to the right (nose to the left) when I give throttle up from a hover. I think that what is happening is that the main motor is taking such a high amperage draw that there is not enough for the tail motor to counteract the torque of the main blades. This is probably componded by my use of used 650 and 700mAh NiMH packs. I am getting lipos for Christmas (and I am 34?), but at 800mAh I am not sure they will help is it is the higher amp draw that is causing it? I am able to compensate enough to fly enjoyably but I wondered what you guys though? Jay

My brother asked me what I wanted for xmas...2 cell 7.4v 800mah 12c lithium polymer batteries was my reply...I'm 37. Jay, you're never too old for a brilliant hobby....as for the heli problem,my stocker is doing exactly the same thing on a timed motor,time for a bit of tinkering methinks.... -Andy P.S. servos still going ok m8,Ta! :D

#3078 mem Dec 07, 2006 08:39 PM

Not to gloat but I celebrated my birthday last weekend (won’t say which one but you guys in your thirties have a very long way to go to catch me) and I got a T-Rex SE from my parents, a Futaba FY401 from my in- laws, my son bought me a lesson on a full size heli. My wife, bless her, gave me the invaluable gift of understanding and acceptance for this obsessive hobby. :D

#3079 corwyn Dec 07, 2006 08:57 PM

Happy birthday! "Obsessive" is right...I've only had my BCX for 3 weeks and I already have an HB FP on the way (should be here Monday). I'm going to try very hard not to mod this one the way I did with the CX...spend my money on new blades (and other broken parts) rather than buying the blingy aluminum bits...

#3080 JustPlaneChris Dec 07, 2006 09:15 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn I'm going to try very hard not to mod this one the way I did with the CX...spend my money on new blades (and other broken parts) rather than buying the blingy aluminum bits... It'll be easier to resist that temptation with the FP, since there really aren't any blingy aluminum bits available for it. :D -Chris

#3081 jsy nobby Dec 07, 2006 09:19 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris It'll be easier to resist that temptation with the FP, since there really aren't any blingy aluminum bits available for it. :D -Chris

None that help your heli fly any better anyways...apart from the head stiffener! -Andy

#3082 ritzheli Dec 07, 2006 10:23 PM

Too Old?...... Never......

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Not to gloat but I celebrated my birthday last weekend (won’t say which one but you guys in your thirties have a very long way to go to catch me) and I got a T-Rex SE from my parents, a Futaba FY401 from my in-laws, my son bought me a lesson on a full size heli. My wife, bless her, gave me the invaluable gift of understanding and acceptance for this obsessive hobby. :D

Hello mem, I know we're here for our favorite 'bird' and all the info contained in these threads, it's just that you're never too old to enjoy that 'little boy' grin when we all fly our HBFPII. :p I won't mention my age, but my avatar speaks for itself and then some! You're never too old to be happy in this fantastic hobby, thank goodness my ol' lady is happy, if I'm happy, she's happy for me...... is that a great wife or what! :D She now flys her very own PicooZ, and loves it, although she tried my HBFPII once it scared the daylights out of her, I had to do something! :eek: Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying

#3083 gluneedit Dec 07, 2006 10:33 PM

Man, I spent hours reading this, and I am only on page 35 or something. OK, tell me something, my living room is like 25*18 with a 12-14 feet cathedral ceiling (slope towards either ends where it will be the std. 8 feet), and can this heli be flawn in that area. AND other than the training gear, and lipo's, is there any other must do's,...what is the fuse mod ? Thanks

#3084 JustPlaneChris Dec 07, 2006 10:47 PM

That's plenty of room for hover practice, assuming you don't have a lot of fragile furniture and breakables in the room. :) The fuse mod is installing a 7.5A fuse on the main motor, and a 3A fuse on the tail motor to prevent burning out the speed controller(s) when you crash and forget to pull the throttle to zero. :D Here's a link with info about it: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...296&postcount=2 -Chris

#3085 Gino CP Dec 07, 2006 11:07 PM

Fuse mod just saved my new 4-in-1. Crashed full throttle because of nasty glitching. Popped the main fuse. Replaced that and the main blade and it was good to go. Well, until I fixed the glitch. Just solder the fuse on the motor terminal. Solder the motor wire on the other fuse leg. You can bend the fuse tabs to position the fuse the way you like.

#3086 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 07, 2006 11:39 PM

Talk about crashes I tried to prove that a FP2 can fly thru a tree {well it doesn't work}. I wouldn't suggest trying this as it is hard on the helicopter. I was thinking I should put BP hobbies on my speed dial. Just think I just gave my bare bones FP to my son in law after we put it togeather with some leftover electronics I had. At least he's having a blast with it.

#3087 mwood4494 Dec 07, 2006 11:43 PM

Need help for addiction

Bought the HP FP for my son recently from xheli.com... bought the E-Sky USB controller and downloaded FMS to get him started. We now fight over who's turn it is to grab the heli and hover (still learning) so I bought a second HB FP for myself. Purchased a couple of 7.4volt 800 lipos and some spare parts and took up the hobby myself. (still want to do the fuse protection) One thing I can say about this heli is it's forgiving when finding its way into furniture and other household obstacles!!! Cheap to repair and have found this thread to be the bible for HB FP info!!! Just wanted to thank those who answer our questions and provide proven purchase/setup and flight info for this heli!!!

#3088 gluneedit Dec 08, 2006 12:25 AM

Thanks guys.

#3089 Gino CP Dec 08, 2006 12:31 AM

Mrmuffinman, got any more daughters?

#3090 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 08, 2006 12:58 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP Mrmuffinman, got any more daughters? Yes two more daughters and two sons and a half dozen helicopters and two dogs. Hows your cp2 flying Gino you still thinking about a FP or you get one already?

#3091 terencechan Dec 08, 2006 06:48 AM

CC Phx10 ESC ThrottleCut: 2S BL solution

Quote: Originally Posted by jefkawst 1800 may be toooooo heavy, it will fly though, it'll just need more headspead to get off the ground. I use 2s 1350 fullymax and 2s 1320 thunderpwr and get close to 15min flight time with a brushless setup. Here's my setup as follows: Himax 2015 4100KV with 12 tooth pinion thunder bird 9 ESC running 2s lipo Eflite 3 in 1 control unit gws micro rcvr CF fixed pitched blades the original setup was a falcon 40 by Exceed RC. all the electronics pretty much fried the same week, that's why I went with all the upgrades. here's a quick vid of the setup: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6QxdlrlsS4 Jeff

Hi Jeff, I have the following config: Unbranded 6-channel 4-in-1 unit Phoenix 10 ESC running E-sky 1000mah 3S Lipo Himax 2015 3600kv with 12T GWS 100E ESC running Twin tail motors Futaba HH gy240 Recently my CC Phoenix 10ESC cut throttle on me after 3 mins when I hover in & out of GE deliberately! I believe that the bird is too heavy (363g) and hence the Himax 3600kv has drawn more than the max current of the phx10 at that instance(15amps). I was going to replace the heavy E-sky 3S Lipo with the lighter TP 1320mah 3s Lipo when I saw your configuration. ;) Since the TP 3S pack costs more than a Himax BL motor, I grabbed a Himax 2015 4100kv instead. I also figured out that the Phx10 handles pretty much the same amperage as your Thunder Bird 9S. After replacing my 3600kv with the 4100kv and slapped on a 1200mah 10C 2S Lipo, voila!! Very smooth liftoff with the lighter 2S and the higher-kv Himax. I pushed the ESC to its limit by pumping in 80-90% throttle continuously by hovering in and out of GE deliberately. After 1 min, the phx10 ESC cut throttle again!!! :mad: I was really pissed! Then I slapped on another 2S pack, my favourite ThunderPower 1320mah of 20C. I abused the Phx10 ESC, doing the same thing again. No throttle cut after 8mins! As I am not convinced, I did a couple of fast ascends and blade stop-start actions. Still no throttle cut! Yeah, you can imagine the grin on my face, I was really pleased. :D When I read up the specs, a 4200kv Himax's max current drawn is 16amps but our ESCs can probably handle up to 14amps but since we are using 4100kv here and with a good Lipo pack of 20C such the TP 1320mah 2S, we are able to pull through safely. I would like to express my thanks to you for sharing your config and the nice flight demo video. Now, my blinged FP2 has less drag and more power! :D -Terence

#3092 jgoodwin Dec 08, 2006 01:07 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jgoodwin ... I have noticed that if I advance the timing by much more than 1 to 2mm the tail spins hard to the right (nose to the left) when I give throttle up from a hover. ...

Thanks Nobby! Glad servos are going well. Anybody else? Chris (and others?), I know you advanced your timing too, did you notice the tail loss? Also I heard there is a point in the advance where the amp draw drops back down to almost normal (>5mm?). If I find this point I assume the tail loss would stop... Off topic, but, if I upgrade should I go: Cool, King, Belt CP, or Mini Zoom? Just looking for Thoughts. Jay PS. Sorry for quoting my self.

#3093 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 08, 2006 01:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jgoodwin Thanks Nooby! Glad servos are going well. Anybody else? Chris (and others?), I know you advanced your timing too, did you notice the tail loss? Also I heard there is a point in the advance where the amp draw drops back down to almost normal (>5mm?). If I find this point I assume the tail loss would stop... Off topic, but, if I upgrade should I go: Cool, King, Belt CP, or Mini Zoom? Just looking for Thoughts. Jay PS. Sorry for quoting my self. Jay everyone gets off subject at some point and quite a few of us have many helis. I have been looking for another bigger helicopter and have looked at all the Esky choppers and even the Trex then it happened like magic a e-mail came in from BP hobbies they are now stocking the Belt cp and already have most of the parts in stock. The barebones kit is just $95.00 to make a long story short I ordered one. Your next heli is your choice so read the different threads and make your choice.

#3094 JustPlaneChris Dec 08, 2006 01:44 PM

Jay, I'd have to agree with others that if your tail won't hold with that timing advance, it may be a failing motor. Just to clarify, my nose 'wags' maybe 10 degrees to the left when I punch the throttle, but it doesn't just spin out of control. If this 'wag' is what you see, then that's pretty normal. My timing is advanced about 5mm, and current draw seems to be the same as stock, but the power is definitely higher and the motor seems to run cooler. The upgrade? Tough call! Belt CP seems iffy on quality / support, and I'd spend the few extra dollars (very few) on a Dragonus or T-Rex. King is getting a version 2 soon (belt drive tail, frame similar to the Cool). The Mini Zoom is just adorably cute. :) -Chris

#3095 RC4ZEKE Dec 08, 2006 05:59 PM

Alright, I think my tail motor may be on it's last leg. The tail motor still turns, but now when I give full right rudder input, the heli does not even respond to it. It doesn't seem like the motor has much of a rpm range anymore. So, am I right in assuming this is the tail motor going out? :o

#3096 jgoodwin Dec 08, 2006 06:17 PM

Chris, I happen to know it is not a failing motor as I replaced the tail motor and the main motor when I did the timing advance! I think it is either I have not advanced it enough (I have done between about 3-5mm). OR, all 4 or my NiMH packs are toast. I get 5 minutes from each of them, but not much more. I might try a few different motor advances tonight, but if I get no further I am going to blame the packs I think...

#3097 jgoodwin Dec 08, 2006 06:19 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by RC4ZEKE The tail motor still turns, but now when I give full right rudder input, the heli does not even respond to it.

That is what mine was doing when I replaced it. it was like a new beast after I replaced it (until I advance the timing on my motor LOL see post above).

#3098 JustPlaneChris Dec 08, 2006 06:57 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jgoodwin Chris, I happen to know it is not a failing motor as I replaced the tail motor and the main motor when I did the timing advance! I think it is either I have not advanced it enough (I have done between about 3-5mm). OR, all 4 or my NiMH packs are toast. I get 5 minutes from each of them, but not much more. I might try a few different motor advances tonight, but if I get no further I am going to blame the packs I think... Well then, definitely not the tail motor unless it was a bad one out of the bag (not impossible, but unlikely). I can't see how a partial timing advance would affect the tail performance. :confused: I'm betting on bad batteries. If they can't put out the juice, the tail can't keep up with the anti-torque duty when it asks for power and doesn't get it. I noticed better tail holding when I went to higher c-rated lipos in my CP2 for that very reason. -Chris

#3099 jgoodwin Dec 08, 2006 07:21 PM

Yeah. I think you are right. Can't wait until Christmas now. I will have 3 lipos, carbon fibre blades, and a nice charger waiting for me under the tree. A little early in the morning in Texas ain't it? ;-) Take care, Jay (American living in England)

#3100 DangerBird Dec 08, 2006 07:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by RC4ZEKE Alright, I think my tail motor may be on it's last leg. The tail motor still turns, but now when I give full right rudder input, the heli does not even respond to it. It doesn't seem like the motor has much of a rpm range anymore. So, am I right in assuming this is the tail motor going out? :o

Thats how mine said goodbye! :eek: Ran out of right rudder in a hurry so I swapped it out and then realized that it was saying goodbye for some time. I forgot how nice it was to have real tail authority! :) -Mike )

#3101 black_box Dec 08, 2006 07:30 PM does the head stiffener sold by BPhobbies for the FEDA/Century/GWS Micro Helicopters fit the honey bee? here's the link So my order list is the RTF HB FP2 kit, training gear, skid set, Paddle control frame, Rotor head set, Ring-like push-rod, 2mm carbon fiber rod, Main motor heat sink, Tail motor heat sink, main rotor blade, tail rotor blades, and 1/2 ounce of the Flash Thin CA. All of those being stock parts and from bphobbies. One of each? or more skids? Should I get the stock main blades, or the PE blades from heli-fever.com? In the fuse-mod guide, they have two of those heat sinks on the main motor, is that necessary? FYI, bphobbies is out of stock of the barebones FP for about a month, I emailed them last night (reply was first thing this morning).

#3102 JustPlaneChris Dec 08, 2006 07:36 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box does the head stiffener sold by BPhobbies for the FEDA/Century/GWS Micro Helicopters fit the honey bee? I've heard that it does, but have not personally tried it myself. Quote: In the fuse-mod guide, they have two of those heat sinks on the main motor, is that necessary? Not on the FP using 2 cell packs. I do run dual heat sinks on my CP2 main motor (using 3 cell packs). Now that I've got the weight down to the 300g range (and since it's winter) I may remove one of the heat sinks to save a few grams. It all adds up. :) -Chris

#3103 RC4ZEKE Dec 08, 2006 09:05 PM

Thanks for the response Mike and jgoodwin. Looks like i'll be buying a new tail motor at bphobbies.

#3104 DangerBird Dec 08, 2006 09:24 PM

Black Box, I am using the rotor blade hub thingy from a Century Hummingbird on my FP and it works fine. When I broke my orginal one while learning back in June, and fixing it about 10 times with Kevlar thread and CA, It was all the LHS had and it has been great since. Still using it and it has not broke on a few hard crashes where the original would have. It is a little stiffer so maybe thats why I don't see too much pitch up in FF. I have yet to put a stiffiner on mine. :eek: (Don't tell Chris) :D RC4ZEKE. Get several motors. I am currently using one from a Blade and I can't tell a difference so there are options. BTW, I did a post mortem on the tail motor and the brushes were down to about 1/64th of an inch and hence not getting much contact pressure on the commutator. -Mike

#3105 brocja01 Dec 08, 2006 09:28 PM

RC4ZEKE - I have also used a tail motor from a Blade CP. Works just fine, which is nice because all the Hobby Shops around my area carry eFlite parts.

#3106 JustPlaneChris Dec 08, 2006 09:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird I have yet to put a stiffiner on mine. :eek: (Don't tell Chris) :D *GASP* :p LOL -Chris

#3107 jsy nobby Dec 09, 2006 01:21 AM xmas pezzies...

Quote: Originally Posted by jgoodwin Yeah. I think you are right. Can't wait until Christmas now. I will have 3 lipos, carbon fibre blades, and a nice charger waiting for me under the tree. A little early in the morning in Texas ain't it? ;-) Take care, Jay (American living in England)

Just one little thing bugging me Jay....what the heck are you doing in blighty????? The land of the free and home of the brave lost it's sparkle? Hold up...lemme guess...Heart stolen by an English rose per chance? ;) Old saint Nick decided to indulge me a little and left an RTF Walkera 52 under our xmas tree,and a nintendo DS for the wife I hasten to add.....roll on the 25th!!!!! -Andy (Londoner living in Jersey)

#3108 TooTall Dec 09, 2006 02:14 AM

1 Attachment(s) New look for mine ...I change back and forth from Darth's 500 D fuselage to the stock canopy and decided to leave the tail for the 500 D ...guess I need to purchase another HB II so I don't have to keep swapping bodies ...Tom

#3109 Fly Or Die Dec 09, 2006 04:02 AM

You know, I dont know how this heli got 200 pages on the forum, but just that fact is enough to put it in contention for my first heli. Is there a forum for the cp2 as well {my only remaining option {they put up a good fight but these are the last two I intend to consider}}. Thanks.

#3110 JustPlaneChris Dec 09, 2006 04:05 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Fly Or Die You know, I dont know how this heli got 200 pages on the forum, but just that fact is enough to put it in contention for my first heli. Is there a forum for the cp2 as well {my only remaining option {they put up a good fight but these are the last two I intend to consider}}. Thanks. It got 200 pages because it's fantastic fun, that's why! :D There is a much newer (and considerably less active) CP2 thread here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565742 I'm sure there are others, but that's one of the latest ones. -Chris

#3111 corwyn Dec 09, 2006 04:15 AM

You know...this is a sickness. I haven't even received my Honeybee FP yet (UPS says it's somewhere between CA and MA right now), and I'm already thinking ahead to..."Once I get used to this thing, I wonder how much a T-Rex 450 SE or XL will cost me, all told..." Fortunately, I just priced out the radio, servos, gyro, etc. on Tower Hobbies, and it's too much for me to just buy on a whim, but they're on my wish list "for future reference." "Sir, please put the credit card down and back away from the web browser." I should have asked for some self-control for Christmas, as I seem to be deficient in that area.

#3112 Fly Or Die Dec 09, 2006 04:17 AM

Of course, it could be that it is 200 pages long because its so bad that everyone who buys it has problems with it... Whoops, I forgot, that was walkera. Just pulling your leg chris. :p How stable is this thing compared to a cp2?

#3113 JustPlaneChris Dec 09, 2006 04:20 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn You know...this is a sickness.

Yes, but it's such a fun sickness! :D :cool: I've got a T-Rex XL, a Hornet X3D, I continue to fly the heck out of my FP and my CP2, and I just got the BP Hobbies sale email and saw that the Honey Bee Cool 'barebones' is on sale for $94.95... And of course, that new Dragonus Intruder is singing a siren song to my heart. Yep, it's a sickness. :rolleyes: And I love it. :) -Chris

#3114 JustPlaneChris Dec 09, 2006 04:21 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Fly Or Die How stable is this thing compared to a cp2? Not as stable. But that's what makes it such a good trainer! You actually develop your heli reflexes and learn to fly, without fear of crashing. Am I right, Rare Bear? :) -Chris

#3115 DangerBird Dec 09, 2006 05:34 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Fly Or Die Of course, it could be that it is 200 pages long because its so bad that everyone who buys it has problems with it... Whoops, I forgot, that was walkera. Just pulling your leg chris. :p How stable is this thing compared to a cp2?

My HB FP is so mad it blew its motor fuse.... and it doesn't even have one... (don't tell Chris) :eek: ;) :p LOL! Seriously though FOD, with some minor tweeking and a light 2S 800mah Lipo this chopper is a blast! I continue to fly it everyday. I stock a large number of spare parts that I have yet to need much of. The thought of being without the bird for parts is unbearable and find myself browsing the page with spare parts on BPHobbies frequently. I am considering buying my 3rd complete RTF from xheli! (more spares) :eek: Too Tall has his all dressed up making my HB FP blades whirl!! THE HELIMANITY! :eek: Holy Smokes! It is a sickness!!! :) We need a support group! -Mike

#3116 RC4ZEKE Dec 09, 2006 06:50 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird

RC4ZEKE. Get several motors. I am currently using one from a Blade and I can't tell a difference so there are options. BTW, I did a post mortem on the tail motor and the brushes were down to about 1/64th of an inch and hence not getting much contact pressure on the commutator. -Mike

Ok, thanks mike. Good to know the Blade CP motor works also. Hopefully my LHS carries those, if not I will check out BPhobbies.

#3117 corwyn Dec 09, 2006 06:53 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Yes, but it's such a fun sickness! :D :cool: I've got a T-Rex XL, a Hornet X3D, I continue to fly the heck out of my FP and my CP2, and I just got the BP Hobbies sale email and saw that the Honey Bee Cool 'barebones' is on sale for $94.95... And of course, that new Dragonus Intruder is singing a siren song to my heart. Yep, it's a sickness. :rolleyes: And I love it. :) -Chris

This is true...it is a lot of fun. I went through two packs tonight without so much as a chipped rotor blade on my BCX (that was a first, as my flight area isn't perfectly free of obstructions), and I even managed a nose- in landing on my ottoman. I can't wait to see how well (or badly) I do with the FP when it comes on Monday.

#3118 RC4ZEKE Dec 09, 2006 07:17 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by brocja01 RC4ZEKE - I have also used a tail motor from a Blade CP. Works just fine, which is nice because all the Hobby Shops around my area carry eFlite parts.

Thank you, brocja01. :) Maybe I should stick a heat sink on the tail motor, might help it last a bit longer. :cool:

#3119 jgoodwin Dec 09, 2006 10:40 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn I should have asked for some self-control for Christmas, as I seem to be deficient in that area. That is funny, but oh so true.

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby Just one little thing bugging me Jay....what the heck are you doing in blighty????? The land of the free and home of the brave lost it's sparkle? Hold up...lemme guess...Heart stolen by an English rose per chance? ;) Actually I did marry an English girl. She grew up in California though. I am from Washington state. I was born in Japan. Confused? That said, I am glad I have not lived there while Dubya has been in office. What a knob. That was way to political for this forum! That is another thing (since I am way off topic and among friends) this is the only thread this big I have seen with no real trolls or fights. Must be one of those things... only certian types of people are drawn to the HBFP.

#3120 jsy nobby Dec 09, 2006 10:53 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jgoodwin That is funny, but oh so true. Actually I did marry an English girl. She grew up in California though. I am from Washington state. I was born in Japan. Confused? That said, I am glad I have not lived there while Dubya has been in office. What a knob. That was way to political for this forum! That is another thing (since I am way off topic and among friends) this is the only thread this big I have seen with no real trolls or fights. Must be one of those things... only certian types of people are drawn to the HBFP.

Too busy flying and fixing for fighting :D :D :D :p :p

#3121 mem Dec 09, 2006 10:56 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird I am using the rotor blade hub thingy from a Century Hummingbird on my FP and it works fine. Mike, are the blade mounting holes identically spaced on the Century and HB hubs? I am not sure anyone has directly tried the Century stiffener on the HB Hub but it should be ok if the holes are in the same place.

Quote: Originally Posted by Fly Or Die (fp or cp2) are the last two I intend to consider. If its your first heli and you don’t have anyone local that can help you with your initial flights then go for the FP. There is less to go out of adjustment and it is more robust then the CP.

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn "Sir, please put the credit card down and back away from the web browser." I should have asked for some self-control for Christmas, as I seem to be deficient in that area. corwyn, you will find that all of your self control needs to be focused on the discipline of learning to fly (search for RADDS in this thread). You can then leave your wife/girlfriend/mother /bank manager to try to keep the credit card in check. :) Quote: Originally Posted by jgoodwin ... only certian types of people are drawn to the HBFP. categorised by my wife (the psychotherapist) as: friendly and helpful obsessive compulsives mem, another American in London

#3122 jsy nobby Dec 09, 2006 11:16 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Mike, are the blade mounting holes identically spaced on the Century and HB hubs? I am not sure anyone has directly tried the Century stiffener on the HB Hub but it should be ok if the holes are in the same place. If its your first heli and you don’t have anyone local that can help you with your initial flights then go for the FP. There is less to go out of adjustment and it is more robust then the CP. corwyn, you will find that all of your self control needs to be focused on the discipline of learning to fly (search for RADDS in this thread). You can then leave your wife/girlfriend/mother /bank manager to try to keep the credit card in check. :) categorised by my wife (the psychotherapist) as: friendly and helpful obsessive compulsives mem, another American in London what is it about the US of A that drives you americans so far away from your homeland? I've never been there but have always wanted to go and have a look....maybe I should go live in china,closer to the source of HBFP spares!!!!! :D

#3123 mem Dec 09, 2006 11:40 AM

Moving swiftly on from questions geopolitical, has anyone here tried the BP stiffener on the HB?

#3124 Slyster Dec 09, 2006 11:48 AM

SHOULDN'T this thread be stickied? Seem BIG enough?

#3125 jsy nobby Dec 09, 2006 11:55 AM

1 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by mem Moving swiftly on from questions geopolitical, has anyone here tried the BP stiffener on the HB?

How about I make you a nice aluminium one for christmas mem?

#3126 mem Dec 09, 2006 12:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby How about I make you a nice aluminium one for christmas mem? Nice job on your ali one. I am very happy with my CF stiffener (details were posted here) I was asking in response to Black Box's question yesterday.

#3127 corwyn Dec 09, 2006 02:18 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem corwyn, you will find that all of your self control needs to be focused on the discipline of learning to fly (search for RADDS in this thread). You can then leave your wife/girlfriend/mother /bank manager to try to keep the credit card in check. :)

Yup, I know...it's just like my car. I autocross it (cone course laid out on an airstrip or a big parking lot), and I'm not a competitive driver, but my car is in the sky's-the-limit AR class because my car is tricked out (suspension upgrades, all the minor brake upgrades, exhaust, cams, chip, intake, etc.). I've already started with RADDS and the EHBG (I think...Electric Helicopter Beginner's Guide?), and I'm trying to at least put a pack or two through the BCX every night, so I am trying to learn/practice. I'm definitely better than I was a week ago (where nose-in usually resulted in some horrific crash as I lost concentration), so it's coming along. Don't know if it's moving slower or faster than it should, but it is coming along. As for external stimuli, I have no wife/girlfriend, my mother lives 260 miles away, and I'm not sure my bank manager cares as long as I pay my bills, so I'm on my own. My dog is a chocolate labrador retriever, so she's happy with whatever, as long as I feed her, let her out, throw the ball, etc. Although, after her one attempt to sniff my helicopter as I was throttling up :eek: , she tends to vacate the area when she hears those loud electric motors spin up. :p

Quote: Originally Posted by Slyster SHOULDN'T this thread be stickied? Seem BIG enough?

We seem to be doing a very good job of keeping it at the top, anyway ;)

#3128 black_box Dec 09, 2006 04:57 PM alright! another autocrosser! Hmm.. my sister is coming to visit from London in another month, maybe my christmas present should be the that CF piece... looks like it would come out to $12 shipped to her, vs. $8 if I get the delrin (and $20+ to get the CF shipped here).

#3129 mem Dec 09, 2006 05:43 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box ... looks like it would come out to $12 shipped to her, vs. $8 if I get the delrin (and $20+ to get the CF shipped here). If you are not going to be doing much forward flight over the next month then there is no rush for the stiffener so no point spending $20. The CF one is very nice but the Delrin one should be ok also if it fits, and I would guess that it will.

#3130 Fly Or Die Dec 09, 2006 05:48 PM

How much more wind can a cp2 stand than a fp? I like the fp and want it to fly indoors {the cp2 can as well from what I hear} but I would do most of my flying outdoors...

#3131 JustPlaneChris Dec 09, 2006 06:00 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Fly Or Die How much more wind can a cp2 stand than a fp? I like the fp and want it to fly indoors {the cp2 can as well from what I hear} but I would do most of my flying outdoors... That depends largely on your flying skills. I've flown both of them in winds of 10+ mph. It wasn't particularly fun with either one of them. If the wind is more than 8-10 mph, it's better to leave micro helis at home (any of them) unless you enjoy the challenge. -Chris

#3132 Fly Or Die Dec 09, 2006 06:04 PM

I hate wind, just wanted to know if it could be done in a breez or lite wind. Which can handle wind more and to what extent?

#3133 JustPlaneChris Dec 09, 2006 06:07 PM

The CP2 can handle wind better because you can reduce the main blade pitch to descend (after the wind causes it to climb). On the FP, you have to reduce power to descend, which slows down the head speed, which reduces the effectiveness of the cyclic controls. As to what extent? As I said, that largely depends on your flying skills. I've got video on my website of my FP flying in 10-15 mph wind, and I've also got video of the CP2 flying in 10+. It can be done, it just takes concentration and it does take a lot of the fun out of flying. -Chris

#3134 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 09, 2006 06:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Fly Or Die How much more wind can a cp2 stand than a fp? I like the fp and want it to fly indoors {the cp2 can as well from what I hear} but I would do most of my flying outdoors... I fly both my honey bees in light wind the fp as Chris says is a challenge as gusts will make it climb or drop quickly. The CP2 is some what better I believe only because it is so much heavier mine is a flying brick with the 11.1 1250mAm battery it makes it slightly better in the wind. But as Chris advises best to leave them in the house with 5mph or more winds.

#3135 TheWolfen Dec 09, 2006 06:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem Moving swiftly on from questions geopolitical, has anyone here tried the BP stiffener on the HB? I can verify that this one works - I have it. I did get some nicer (stainless) through bolts & locknuts for it, though. The bolts I used are 1/2" 4-40's and they work perfectly. David

#3136 c2po Dec 09, 2006 07:07 PM

1 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by mem has anyone here tried the BP stiffener on the HB?

I did, works fine.

#3137 mem Dec 09, 2006 07:15 PM

Thanks Wolfen and c2po. c2po, what blades are those in the pic?

#3138 c2po Dec 09, 2006 07:30 PM that are blades for Kyosho M24 Caliber.

#3139 crxef9 Dec 09, 2006 07:38 PM c2po: what kind of screws are those? looks different from the normal 4-40 nut and bolt

#3140 c2po Dec 09, 2006 08:08 PM those screws came with a stiffener, don't know what are they, but measuring thread OD with digital caliper gives 2.40mm - so it has to be M2.5.

#3141 Alan Kaf Dec 09, 2006 08:55 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby How about I make you a nice aluminium one for christmas mem? jsy nobby -- what thickness aluminum did you use? And are those tapped holes in the aluminum? Thanks, Alan

#3142 jsy nobby Dec 09, 2006 09:01 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Alan Kaf jsy nobby -- what thickness aluminum did you use? And are those tapped holes in the aluminum? Thanks, Alan

1/16th Alu. plate and yes they are.... :)

#3143 Pwog Dec 09, 2006 10:03 PM

Crash and Burn

Ok support group, lookin for love here. Just had my first major "incedent" with the Honeybee. Looks like I need a new airframe and BPHobbies is out of stock. Having unpure thoughts about a "storm launcher". Perhaps it would be tougher. Everything was going so well too. I had a great outdoor flight going when I got crossed up and tried to take my own head off. Poor little heli......

#3144 mem Dec 09, 2006 10:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Pwog Ok support group, lookin for love here. Just had my first major "incedent" with the Honeybee. Looks like I need a new airframe and BPHobbies is out of stock. Having unpure thoughts about a "storm launcher". Perhaps it would be tougher. Everything was going so well too. I had a great outdoor flight going when I got crossed up and tried to take my own head off. Poor little heli...... Pwog, things often look much worse then they really are just after a crash. It’s surprising what can be repaired. Post some pictures and you may get some help in bringing your heli back to life. Or at the very least, lots of sympathy.

#3145 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 09, 2006 10:40 PM

Been there just done that I tried to fly thru a tree just the other day and I am back togeather. Look real close and see what you need the FP is a tough little bird. It probably is not as bad as it looks parts are cheap and bp hobbies is really quick. You can fix alot of things on the fp with some ca and thread. Hang in there if your not crashing your not flying.

#3146 awalk Dec 10, 2006 12:48 AM

I have been perfecting glue and thread on landing gear today. I have been airborn! I had a very nicely controlled hover then the next flight i was pushing left stick for right... ugly. I think RADD says - stop - think about what you are doing... Fun day. OK - question, the tail moter stoped controlling but then started for a couple of seconds then off again. Sounds like a bad tail motor from everything i have read, yes?

#3147 7AC Dec 10, 2006 12:53 AM

Chris, can you give us any tips of flying the FP is some wind? I am going assume that you minimize hovering?

#3148 JustPlaneChris Dec 10, 2006 01:00 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by 7AC Chris, can you give us any tips of flying the FP is some wind? I am going assume that you minimize hovering? Right you are! Hovering in the wind is hard, because it wants to climb. But when you cut power to keep it from climbing, the head speed slows down and the cyclic response gets all wonky. I typically do a lot of flying around and nice tight turns when there's a breeze. In fact, I just did that this afternoon in the front yard and managed to fly out two packs without even getting close to scaring myself. :rolleyes: Anyway, if it balloons up too high, rather than just cutting power and trying to let it straight down, reduce power slightly and push the cyclic forward. Make a descending spiral turn if you're up to the task. Not only is it fun, but you maintain much better control. -Chris

#3149 Fly Or Die Dec 10, 2006 01:40 AM

Well chris, today I went to the hobby shop and on g3 I could hover a helimax axe cp {actually anything I tried, gassers, mx400, 3ders}, nose in, tail in, side in, inverted, I could do loops, rools, circuits and landings without crashing, it was just too easy {on the sim}. The salesman kept telling me that a fp would be boring and I should get a cp pro, but then he told a guy who had never touched anything rc to get a raptor, so ditto to him, I hate it when salesmen do that. My question is, if I can do all that on a sim, do you think Id be safe with a cp2, or is it really that different? They are both still in contention, so dont worry. Anyone is free to answer by the way. Thanks!

#3150 DangerBird Dec 10, 2006 03:18 AM

DOH! Shot my HB FP down today! Sorta.

Yes indeed, shot my own Heli down this afternoon! I had just finished flying one of my sailplanes and decided to take up the HB FP. Gee, seems sorta glitchy! :confused: I land and cycle power on the chopper and back up again. Same glitching! :confused: Land again and walk over to the pits to get my scanner to have a listen to the frequency. Sounds fine and meanwhile my HB FP is doing backflips and flopping like a fish out of water 50ft behind me! Broke the dang blade holder I was so proud of boasting that I do not need no stinkin head stiffiner! Also broke a flybar linkage! :mad: (thank you Karma) Then a buddy yells over to me "Hey Mike, you want this other transmitter off?" DOH!! I left my glider transmitter on! :eek: After all that flopping around, it should have blown the 4-in-1 but it didn't and didn't blow the fuse I didn't have in line either! :p :D A few of those seldom needed spares came in real handy but my precious mondo Century blade holder without a stiffiner was destroyed and was out of stock at the LHS! :mad: I had a stiffiner already made given to my by a friend and used a stock new blade holder and linkage. Hovered a pack on the patio in the dark and she is good to go! :cool: I may eat Crow on this stiffener and will see how it FF's in the am. I know, if it makes a big difference in FF, I'll just lie and say it didn't help! :rolleyes: :) Mem, yes, the hole spacing on the Century blade holder is exactly the same as the HB stock one. Its alot stiffer and really didn't need any help unlike the stock one. I am pretty sure it is the one for the FP Century Hummingbird. Really liking the new Max Power 850 12C 2S packs. Somewhat more punch than the Commonsense under load. Time will tell. -Mike

#3151 JustPlaneChris Dec 10, 2006 04:19 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird Really liking the new Max Power 850 12C 2S packs. Somewhat more punch than the Commonsense under load. Time will tell. Mike, that's almost as good as my leaving a 2100 lipo connected to an ESC for 3 days. Yep, kills em real dead when you do that. :rolleyes: Hey, how accurate is the 44g weight quoted on the Helidirect site for that battery pack? One of my CSRC 800's is getting a little soft, after 6 months of continuous use. I flew it today and only got 7 minutes before it took full throttle to fly. Recharge only put back in 384mah, so I'm guessing it is just worn out and can't put out the amps any more. :( I've had such fantastic luck with the ThunderPower 3S 730 I bought for my CP2, I'm tempted to get a 2S 730 (34g!!) as a replacement for my FP. But I know how you feel about TP batteries. ;) -Chris

#3152 Rare Bear Dec 10, 2006 04:49 AM

[QUOTE=Pwog]Ok support group, lookin for love here. Just had my first major "incedent" with the Honeybee. Looks like I need a new airframe and BPHobbies is out of stock.QUOTE] www.xheli.com - sure they can help you w/ an airframe. :) God bless - "Rare"

#3153 Rare Bear Dec 10, 2006 05:04 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Not as stable. But that's what makes it such a good trainer! You actually develop your heli reflexes and learn to fly, without fear of crashing. Am I right, Rare Bear? :) -Chris

Absolutely! My skills have improved far beyond I ever expected, and I'm having a blast w/ every flight! I could use some more yaw authority, though - managed to smack my pops w/ my heli on a hard right turn! Just ran out of tail thrust!! I'll never live that one down, but my heli is flying again, so I'm sure he's scared. :D But, after that ugly crash, I replaced (1) push loop, which probably cost me less that .50 cents, and my heli's back in the air. If I get anymore flak, I'll just have to attack again!! :D God bless - "Rare"

#3154 DangerBird Dec 10, 2006 05:39 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Hey, how accurate is the 44g weight quoted on the Helidirect site for that battery pack? One of my CSRC 800's is getting a little soft, after 6 months of continuous use. I flew it today and only got 7 minutes before it took full throttle to fly. Recharge only put back in 384mah, so I'm guessing it is just worn out and can't put out the amps any more. :( -Chris

Hi Chris, The weight of the 2S 850 12C (square pack) tips the Handy Dandy Harbor Freight scale at 45.8g and the 2S 850 15C (pack-o-gum style) is 43.8g with wires and connectors. I deep sixed a CS 800 8C last week that was behaving pretty much the same as yours. It was the oldest and had over 100 cycles in the HB FP. Great performance and still my 2nd choice currently. As for the TP batteries, no question they are good batteries but a bit pricey when there are suitable subs for much less. At times, customer service can be weird. However, the jury is still out on the Max Power but there are a number in use currently at our field. So far they are pretty good but the 20-30 cycle Honeymoon isn't over yet! ;) I do not like the Apex 1350 15C cells. I have a pack and it is the worst for maintaining a respectable balance from cycle to cycle. :mad: Hopefully, the Wx here will be ok in the morning to get some flights on the stiffy head HB FP. :cool: -Mike

#3155 PeterVRC Dec 10, 2006 06:00 AM

If it is windy and you just 'have' to have a fly I would suggest you make sure it is a large area! eg park Best is to keep the heli moving with reasonable FFF because, as has been mentioned, it will begin a real handful if you drop the head-speed. And in FFF it can actually fly quite well even in blustery conditions if you keep it moving swiftly. Just FFF around a circuit and 'swoop' in down to your chosen nearby landing zone. For cool fun, bring your FP around a circuit and swooping in a fast sweep past you! (eg coming off a 20 - 30ft downward leg and swoop down and around for a 5 - 8 foot fly-by). They sound impressive (err, that is relative I guess) when you have them under full G load and max collective for a fast fly-by! The rotor 'beating' (sound) is really loud considering it is coming from such a little heli! These things can really move! I can't really guess a speed number, but coming off such a 'swoop' it is very fast!! In windy conditions, to land somewhat easier (or to get height reduced with full control), you just do that same thing, but pitch it up a bit earlier on for the braking to complete roughly in time for the landing zone. Because you want the 'slow time' (low head-speed) kept to the minimum. Has anyone ever had their rotor hub rip off (unclip) due to the in-flight G loading exceeding the plastic fingers grip ability?? lol It happened once to me, as far as I can tell, seeing the crash contact made incident analysis tougher! It seems to me that in general the pitch max ability is JUST within the limits of what G's you can produce anyway. eg never seems to happen - usually. But what happened was one time as I came swooping through, and the flight path all looked fine to be on line to achieve level flight for the fast fly-by at 5 - 10 foot range, it just went and smacked into the ground in what seemed 'amiss' compared to the 'swoop curve' being on track fine. Not much damage overall (about 20deg crash angle?), but the rotor was off the mounts - as is common in crashes anyway. It should have all come through on the intended flight line fine, so it seemed to me that it may have 'rocked off' one end under the G load and possibly actually caused the crash. It had just reduced/stopped its flight 'curve' suddenly (it seemed) and nothing else related was off or damaged (eg links etc). The nose and landing gear took all the force it seems, and it was a fast crash, so it was a really lucky outcome! Even flying again within a few minutes of some patching. Tough little buggers these things are! I find the FP flies better with 290-300g approx with my 1000MaH lipo(s), than at 270g approx with my 850MaH Lipo. It just doesn't have the same stability when it gets too light, and the relatively low slung weight. eg analogy to a paper bag being blown around by the wind. And I haven't found any benefit/advantage in using the 850MaH at all. If anything, it is that bit worse. Maybe if one day I ever get a ZERO wind day around here I can see if the 850 likes those conditions better! 8% less weight should make for useful benefits under high G situations - versus the lower stability in all other situations of the flight. The 850 is ok for close-by hovering practice, where it is not important at all. Though still is of no great use over the 1000's.

#3156 jgoodwin Dec 10, 2006 10:26 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by awalk OK - question, the tail moter stoped controlling but then started for a couple of seconds then off again. Sounds like a bad tail motor from everything i have read, yes?

I could be a few things. The motor would probably be almost dead if it was bad enough to freeze for 2 seconds. Did it actaully stop for 2 full seconds? (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi, 3...)

#3157 awalk Dec 10, 2006 02:22 PM

1 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by jgoodwin I could be a few things. The motor would probably be almost dead if it was bad enough to freeze for 2 seconds. Did it actaully stop for 2 full seconds? (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi, 3...)

Thanks jgoodwin, I ordered new motor, new power cable for tail, plus sim cable to get some computer practice. The picture of the power cabe and plugs for the tail stuck in my mind... This AM I woke up, went in and pushed the loose tail wire plug back into the 4in1. :rolleyes: it was sort of obvious. Check those easy conections 1st! Also, last week waiting on new paddle control frame, I added a glue on popsicle stiffener. A wider stick would have been ideal but glue saves a little weight and has held solid for 6 packs.

#3158 gfdengine204 Dec 10, 2006 04:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by PeterVRC These things can really move! I can't really guess a speed number, but coming off such a 'swoop' it is very fast!!

Hot wheels has a new toy out, a radar gun that reads speeds up to 100MPH. Whilst not as accurate as the radar units used by law enforcement (an advantage to me should I ever want to 'shoot' my heli, just ask one of the troopers I work with to do it for me :) ), this unit is close enough to give a fairly good idea of your heli's speed. I would recommend having someone else run the radar, though - keep your hands on your controls! :p

#3159 taylorcraft078 Dec 10, 2006 05:09 PM

Max Power Batteries?

I am looking for the Max Power batteries that Chris and Mike are talking about. I can find Mega Power and E-Max but not Max power on the helidirect.com. Do you have part numbers or anything that I can look up? Dave

#3160 JustPlaneChris Dec 10, 2006 05:29 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by taylorcraft078 I am looking for the Max Power batteries that Chris and Mike are talking about. I can find Mega Power and E-Max but not Max power on the helidirect.com. Do you have part numbers or anything that I can look up? Dave Oops, my bad Dave. Mega Power it is. Now that I think about it, "Max Power" is a name from an episode of the Simpsons! :rolleyes: -Chris

#3161 jsy nobby Dec 10, 2006 07:32 PM

BESC setup?

1 Attachment(s) Lo all, I've been tinkering about with my new brushless setup and am a bit stuck on settings 4,7 & 9, I've figured out what all the others do, and hope that you clever people out there might be able to fill in the gaps?(attached is the destruction manual) -Andy

#3162 jsy nobby Dec 10, 2006 07:36 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Oops, my bad Dave. Mega Power it is. Now that I think about it, "Max Power" is a name from an episode of the Simpsons! :rolleyes: -Chris

Also the name of a popular automobile modder's magazine...kind of like penthouse for petrol heads....

#3163 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 10, 2006 07:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby Lo all, I've been tinkering about with my new brushless setup and am a bit stuck on settings 4,7 & 9, I've figured out what all the others do, and hope that you clever people out there might be able to fill in the gaps?(attached is the destruction manual) -Andy Click on your link it is unreadable like it is a negitive.

#3164 jsy nobby Dec 10, 2006 08:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mrmuffinmanvw Click on your link it is unreadable like it is a negitive.

:confused: :confused: :confused: seems to work fine...or did I post this in the wrong thread?

#3165 Wren1702 Dec 10, 2006 08:53 PM

If it were mine, I'd set #4 to soft start (slow spool up), leave 7 at the factory setting, and #9 to RPM Control off.

#3166 black_box Dec 10, 2006 09:40 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird my precious mondo Century blade holder without a stiffiner was destroyed and was out of stock at the LHS! Mem, yes, the hole spacing on the Century blade holder is exactly the same as the HB stock one. Its alot stiffer and really didn't need any help unlike the stock one. I am pretty sure it is the one for the FP Century Hummingbird. is the CNE004A : Rotor Hub V3 on this page part the one you're talking about? would the CNE004 part be better? looks like it has more structural support in the bearing area.

#3167 Pwog Dec 10, 2006 10:03 PM www.xheli.com - sure they can help you w/ an airframe. :) God bless - "Rare"[/QUOTE] Rare, I cant find an airframe on xheli...... is it a special order?

#3168 mem Dec 10, 2006 10:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box is the CNE004A : Rotor Hub V3 on this page part the one you're talking about? would the CNE004 part be better? looks like it has more structural support in the bearing area. I was referring to the stiffener on this page: http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?i...042&pid=T909505 and the one named CNCarbon14 on the link you quoted.

#3169 black_box Dec 10, 2006 10:33 PM

It sounded like dangerbird was referring to a blade holder and not just the stiffener. I was just looking for more things to buy on that site (my sister suggested finding more stuff so the shipping charges wouldnt be more than the merchandise)

#3170 sedohr Dec 10, 2006 11:39 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Radd ...I have a video around here somewhere of a guy flying a FP like a maniac...extremely controled in FF,FFF,backward flying and piro curcuits, tight funnels...if you can do these maneuvers your defineately ready for a big machine.. and you would knock'em dead too...

Radd.... I'm working my way through this thread so if you've already posted this video, I'll come across it in later pages. If not, I'd sure like to see the vid if you can locate. Thanks, Randy

#3171 jsy nobby Dec 10, 2006 11:59 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Wren1702 If it were mine, I'd set #4 to soft start (slow spool up), leave 7 at the factory setting, and #9 to RPM Control off.

Thanks Wren, just curious,what happens if RPM control is on? -Andy

#3172 Wren1702 Dec 11, 2006 12:16 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby Thanks Wren, just curious,what happens if RPM control is on? -Andy

That's a useful feature on a collective pitch helicopter when you want the rotor headspeed to be constant as you input pitch changes on the blades. On our fixed pitch helicopters we have to vary the HS to change lift, as the pitch is fixed.

#3173 jsy nobby Dec 11, 2006 12:38 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Wren1702 That's a useful feature on a collective pitch helicopter when you want the rotor headspeed to be constant as you input pitch changes on the blades. On our fixed pitch helicopters we have to vary the HS to change lift, as the pitch is fixed. once again,my thanks! the wonders of modern technology eh? Not only does this little gizmo sing to me to tell me what it's doing,it can dance as well it would seem...amazing... :D -Andy

#3174 Fly Or Die Dec 11, 2006 02:33 AM

Can someone reccomend me a trustworthy place where I can get one of these dirt cheap rtf? Maybe with a lipo? I dont wanna give my credit card number to just anyone...

#3175 hallstudio Dec 11, 2006 02:58 AM

I got my heli from Xheli.com lipos from grandrc.com both shipped quick but grand used USPS 2 day.

#3176 hallstudio Dec 11, 2006 03:04 AM

Here's a video we shot today. i just got the honey friday. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEmfTpzyJY8

#3177 johnnycat500 Dec 11, 2006 03:13 AM great video....sure wish i could fly like that...good job

#3178 Rare Bear Dec 11, 2006 03:23 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Pwog www.xheli.com - sure they can help you w/ an airframe. :) God bless - "Rare"

Rare, I cant find an airframe on xheli...... is it a special order?[/QUOTE] Sorry, Pwog - thought they would have a barebones, but it looks like they don't stock that item. Hope BP stocks them soon. God bless - "Rare"

#3179 mwood4494 Dec 11, 2006 03:24 AM

Tail Rotor Housing Rotating on my HB FP....

The tail rotor rotates fairly freely on the boom....What can I do to keep it fixed without damaging it? It actually appears to rotate slightly in flight and whenever I have less than grateful landing. :rolleyes:

#3180 PeterVRC Dec 11, 2006 03:25 AM

That's pretty good skill levels for such a short time! (Hallstudio video) I must have spent a few weeks on sims first (4?) (years of fixed wing prior), then a week or so on the Heli before I was FFFing around. I had to learn 90% (hovering and slow moves) in my lounge because the wind just won't give up around here lately! In the end I just headed to the park anyway and worked out pretty quick that you need to keep it moving if you want to fly in windy conditions and survive! And FFF seems pretty much like fixed wing flying to me. A bit different control inputs, but basically the same mindset/process.

#3181 Fly Or Die Dec 11, 2006 03:27 AM

WOW. Only two days flying... Its inspiring, heck, Ive always been good with planes but I dunno if I can get that good in 2 days! Did you crash at all? Thats the main reason Im considering this heli. Good job with the vid, looks like a flying streak in some passes. :eek: Really considering this little bastard. Was learning it very hard? Thanks.

#3182 hallstudio Dec 11, 2006 03:27 AM i put a dab of CA on mine.

#3183 mwood4494 Dec 11, 2006 03:29 AM

Hallstudio....will that cause problems if you ever have to replace the rotor housing?

#3184 hallstudio Dec 11, 2006 03:37 AM i have not had a crash yet. i did have some tip overs learning how to land. i purchased a bunch of parts so i should be prepaired. i did crash about 398 times on realflight. also i cant hover nose in. i fly 3D airplanes and think that has helped in the finger dept. take a look at some of my videos like 2 planes smacking and aerocat with the right web address. alot of hovering in those. i think this link will work http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=hallstudio

#3185 JustPlaneChris Dec 11, 2006 03:38 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mwood4494 Hallstudio....will that cause problems if you ever have to replace the rotor housing? If you have to replace the motor housing, you can just split it (carefully) with a knife or dremel cutoff disk, clean up the boom with some sandpaper, then CA the new one on. -Chris

#3186 hallstudio Dec 11, 2006 03:40 AM mwood4494 not sure what you mean. i was speaking of the back of the heli. i am new to heli's so mabey my terms are a little off.

#3187 JustPlaneChris Dec 11, 2006 03:45 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by hallstudio Here's a video we shot today. i just got the honey friday. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEmfTpzyJY8 :eek: :eek: Holy moly, that's great! :) Congrats, and welcome to the addiction! It only gets worse (better?) from here. :cool: -Chris

#3188 hallstudio Dec 11, 2006 03:55 AM

JustPlaneChris question on the head stiff mod. What does it do for forward flight? The heli-seamed fine to me today (first time I went over 15 mph) the last bank turn I did was the highest degree turn I have done. Does the head stiff mod provide a means of turning with more authority (creating more lift)

#3189 JustPlaneChris Dec 11, 2006 03:57 AM

To be honest, the main reason I did the head stiffener mod was to add through-bolts with locknuts so I could let the blades run loose. This totally cured the "fixed pitch wobble of death" I was experiencing sometimes during flight. A side benefit is that it reduces the ability of the blades to 'cone' (and as someone also discovered recently, reduces the ability to flex the head torsionally) which helps reduce pitch-up in fast forward flight. All good things. :) -Chris

#3190 hallstudio Dec 11, 2006 04:02 AM that makes sense. should i use the popsicle stick or do you sugest another EASY way. i am lazy

#3191 JustPlaneChris Dec 11, 2006 04:09 AM

The popsicle stick is probably the easiest way. I made mine from carbon fiber sheet (about 1/16" thick), and I've seen folks make them from 1/16" aluminum too. You want something fairly stiff, even 1/16" aircraft ply would work well. -Chris

#3192 DangerBird Dec 11, 2006 04:42 AM

Blackbox, That is NOT the one! Sorry but I do not have the p/n for the Century part that I had. I went to the LHS after the ordeal yesterday and they did not have stock and thats why I am using a head stiffiner with a stock yolk which BTW performs the same :eek: as my favority blade yolk holder thingy did before its demise. I didn't see any difference flying it this morning but without the head stiffiner, it would be ugly. :rolleyes: If you can point me to other Century parts, I can check them out and let you know. I would like to pick up a few also. -Mike

#3193 JustPlaneChris Dec 11, 2006 04:47 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird I am using a head stiffiner with a stock yolk which BTW performs the same :eek: as my favority blade yolk holder thingy did before its demise. I didn't see any difference flying it this morning but without the head stiffiner, it would be ugly. :rolleyes: Mike, I thought you weren't going to admit that. :p -Chris

#3194 DangerBird Dec 11, 2006 05:21 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris Mike, I thought you weren't going to admit that. :p -Chris

I didn't see any difference between my now broke and in the trash Century yolk to a stock Esky with the head stiffiner. No head stiffiner on the stock and it would only be good for hovering but I broky my orginal before I was able to FF. I guess I was spoiled with the Century part and didn't see what all the fuss was about. :p Now I can't get a new one! WAAAAA!! :D Stuck with this ugly black thing with bolts thru it on top of my chopper! :rolleyes: It does work though! :) BTW, any word when BP will get the barebones back in stock? Looks like the beginning of a cult around here and they should fly off the shelves. :eek: -Mike

#3195 terencechan Dec 11, 2006 05:55 AM

Stiffening to better flight

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird I didn't see any difference between my now broke and in the trash Century yolk to a stock Esky with the head stiffiner. No head stiffiner on the stock and it would only be good for hovering but I broky my orginal before I was able to FF. I guess I was spoiled with the Century part and didn't see what all the fuss was about. :p Now I can't get a new one! WAAAAA!! :D Stuck with this ugly black thing with bolts thru it on top of my chopper! :rolleyes: It does work though! :) BTW, any word when BP will get the barebones back in stock? Looks like the beginning of a cult around here and they should fly off the shelves. :eek: -Mike

Hi Mike, ever thought of using wooden FP blades for a change. It drains more power but offers plenty of authority against the wind & in FFF. The stiffener remains a neccessity. I'm using the 238 FP wooden blades with CF head stiffener from www.like90.com. :) -Terence

#3196 DangerBird Dec 11, 2006 06:09 AM

Hi Terence, Funny you should mention the wood blades! I was just sitting here thinking about making some from paint can stirers (wood). Also, a friend told me there are some CF blades available now also at Heli Direct. Next thing will be some bling for the rotor blade yolk we have been talking about. :) I simply love the simplicity and great flying charcteristics of this heli. I just ordered the deal at xheli. Now I'll have 3 complete sets of electronics. My Wife just rolls her eyes. :) -Mike

#3197 terencechan Dec 11, 2006 06:31 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird Hi Terence, Funny you should mention the wood blades! I was just sitting here thinking about making some from paint can stirers (wood). Also, a friend told me there are some CF blades available now also at Heli Direct. Next thing will be some bling for the rotor blade yolk we have been talking about. :) I simply love the simplicity and great flying charcteristics of this heli. I just ordered the deal at xheli. Now I'll have 3 complete sets of electronics. My Wife just rolls her eyes. :) -Mike

*lol I guess we all have something in common. ;) I've a spare barebones from heli-fever.com and spare set of 4-in-1 and matching tx from E-bay. Next thing I'm gonna do is to buy a big coaxial heli (dragonfly #53) that uses the '370 can motors, mod it to using brushless cans and then throw in the cheapest HH gyro that I can find. :D See, I'm doing my best to get my wife into this heli stuff by asking her to hover the Blade CX, but it's funny to see how reluctant she is despite my constant preaching to 'hold the tail'. The big coaxial heli with HH gyro will be my next best attempt to get her into the addiction. :D haha -Terence

#3198 Hazy Dec 11, 2006 06:38 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by terencechan *lol I guess we all have something in common. ;) I've a spare barebones from heli-fever.com and spare set of 4-in-1 and matching tx from E-bay. Next thing I'm gonna do is to buy a big coaxial heli (dragonfly #53) that uses the '370 can motors, mod it to using brushless cans and then throw in the cheapest HH gyro that I can find. :D See, I'm doing my best to get my wife into this heli stuff by asking her to hover the Blade CX, but it's funny to see how reluctant she is despite my constant preaching to 'hold the tail'. The big coaxial heli with HH gyro will be my next best attempt to get her into the addiction. :D haha -Terence

I think is not easy to find walkera part in Singapore.But ESky is rather common.

#3199 terencechan Dec 11, 2006 06:58 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Hazy I think is not easy to find walkera part in Singapore.But ESky is rather common. thanks for tips, Hazy. I will see if E-sky has any co-axial heli big enough to fit the bill. :) The lama2/ V3 or the Dynam Vortex in Singapore all have the same rotor span as the Blade CX. :( By far, I've only noticed the Walkera DragonFly #53 because of its longer rotor blades and its readily available 370 can motors. ;) The larger rotor span, together with a heading hold gyro and brushless motor mod should make a good outdoor bird for my wife to get pre-occupied with while I fly my FP2. :D

#3200 black_box Dec 11, 2006 12:27 PM

I emailed BPhobbies last week about the FP2 barebones kit, they estimated about one month to get more in (shipped via boat). (they had quick response via email, btw)

#3201 gfdengine204 Dec 11, 2006 02:51 PM

Sim Model

Any thoughts as to which Clear View heli model is closest to the HoneyBee FP? Or is there one out there I can get for my CV Sim?

#3202 DangerBird Dec 11, 2006 03:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box L

:eek: Ordered the deal at xheli. $97 shipped to my door in Az. They must have a shipping container full of these! :D No such thing as too many spares. I guess its my bunker mentality. :rolleyes: Went searching for the Century rotor yolk last night with no luck. All I see are the ones that you showed me BB. Wondering if I got the only one ever made. :confused: OR if it was for some different heli but it did come in Century packaging. I guess I can try Century direct. -Mike

#3203 jsy nobby Dec 11, 2006 04:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Fly Or Die L

I got one here http://www.rcscale.co.uk/eshop/prod...hp?prod=108eSky ,I don't think they're in the uk 'cos when it arrived it had a chinese airwaybill!! £77:00 GBP shipped. cheap as cheese!!!! :D -Andy

#3204 jsy nobby Dec 11, 2006 04:32 PM

Pwog, they have airframes in stock here http://www.buzzflyer.co.uk/Electric...48/p-72-88-167/ ,Dunno where you are in the world,I'd assume America so may cost a bit in shipping as these guys are in the UK. -Andy

#3205 Fly Or Die Dec 11, 2006 07:42 PM

How well do these resell? Say if in a few months I want a new heli, would I have trouble reselling one for around 80 to 100 dollars?

#3206 awalk Dec 11, 2006 09:20 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Fly Or Die L

I think most on this thread are in the buy and fly mode. At $89 plus shipping new, I am guessing you might get less than that selling it used. However, you might be a gifted pilot and salesman. :o

#3207 jsy nobby Dec 11, 2006 09:32 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Fly Or Die L

Good question FOD, I've never tried to sell one...why would you want to? :)

#3208 Fly Or Die Dec 11, 2006 09:38 PM

I am not sure yet, I am a student, so I dont have a lot of money, so in case I-A. get bored {unlikely}-B. need funds for my next heli, whatever that is.

#3209 jsy nobby Dec 11, 2006 09:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by awalk L

Awalk, I beg to differ mon ami.....I've been flying for a little over two months now and if it's one thing I've learned so far, I've had to buy to fly!!! What the heck say I, and most of the other peeps who subscribe to this thread would say so too I'd wager....If someone said to me"would you buy an E-sky Honeybee FP?" my answer would be "thrice over" Beats the pants off of spending the money on beer!!!!! :D :D :D :D -Andy.

#3210 jsy nobby Dec 11, 2006 09:49 PM doh....

#3211 DangerBird Dec 11, 2006 09:53 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Fly Or Die L

Perish the thought! Would you sell your child or pet to get a new one? :confused: Mine is a family member like the Dogs and Wife! :eek: I would add it to my group medical if my employer allowed it! ;) Instead, I keep buying parts and whole Heli deals like the one at xheli.com. :rolleyes: Had a friend who always referred to himself as a "Starving Student" so when he graduated I asken him how it was now and he replied "Just Starving" :D -Mike

#3212 Wren1702 Dec 11, 2006 09:55 PM

If you ever get one, I'll just about promise you...... you'll never get rid of it! I had a guy who wanted to trade mine for a 30 size V1 raptor, that was ready to fly. I turned him down!

#3213 jsy nobby Dec 11, 2006 09:56 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Fly Or Die L

FOD, boredom won't even get a look in once you have a Honeybee FP and the spares are cheap enough if you shop around a bit!!! :D :D :D I think trying to flog a second hand copter would be like trying to whistle dixie with a mouth full of custard...better spend your efforts learning to fly your copter m8..... -Andy

#3214 corwyn Dec 11, 2006 10:13 PM

Woo hoo...my HB FP is here. And now...to figure out how to set this thing up. This manual is awful....Chinglish at its "best"... LOL

#3215 Wren1702 Dec 11, 2006 10:18 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird L

ROTFLMAO...... :p :p :D :D :)

#3216 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 11, 2006 10:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L Got questions we got answers. Just ask I am fluent in chinglish in this hobby you gotta be.

#3217 jsy nobby Dec 11, 2006 10:29 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

Corwyn, Straight out of the box there are a few things you should check...Main and tail rotor balance as well as the flybar balance,you may also find that the flybar paddles are out of square with the main shaft... after flying my hb for a couple of months I've since discovered that it was RTF alright...Ready To Flap around all over the place!!!! :D :D Good luck and happy flying, -Andy P.S. check the main rotor blades are tracking properly too!

#3218 corwyn Dec 11, 2006 11:10 PM

Ah yes, mine is definitely "Ready To Flap-around" as well. My tail rotor is definitely far out of balance (says something when one end falls to the table when I put it on the lawn mower blade balancer I got). Should the flybar paddles be perpendicular to the main shaft? (i.e.-if the shaft points straight up, the paddles parallel to the ground) Also, how do you balance the main rotor? Just weigh the two sides and make sure they're the same? And..how the heck do you balance the helo front to back? I have the battery all the way forward, but I'm still very tail heavy. And if I switch to LiPo, it'll be that much worse! Thanks!

#3219 bhbuster Dec 11, 2006 11:19 PM

Someone will chime in on a link to balance the rotors. As far as the battery, tape two quarters to the 4 in 1 or in the nose and that should take care of that. When you go over to lipos it will be mounted under the 4 in 1. Brian

#3220 bhbuster Dec 11, 2006 11:23 PM

1 Attachment(s) Here is SSG_Scott's balancing guide.

#3221 jsy nobby Dec 12, 2006 12:01 AM

2 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

OK...heli centre of gravity first,you can reverse the plastic bits just under the airframe and add some carbon fibre rod(use wooden cocktail sticks if you've no spare CF rod yet,cut off the sharp bits....)to allow the battery to be moved forward some more,I tried the coin trick and it just adds to the overall weight of your heli. when you switch to lipo's bear in mind that 2 cell batteries are actually lighter than the Ni-mh batteries that come with your heli and it'll fly for longer. The battery hanger shown is from a cp2 but the stock hanger from the HB will work just fine with the Ni-mh packs without adding unnecessary weight....someone's already posted SSG Scott's PDF on how to balance rotors etc...I found this way a bit easier and you can buy balancers that work in the same way...Oops nearly forgot,the flybar paddles need to be at 90 degrees to the main shaft. -Andy

#3222 corwyn Dec 12, 2006 12:23 AM

Thanks, guys! I have a 100x0.01g balance on order (shipped out today), but I did a rough balance with the tools I had on hand. Turns out that my tail rotor was horribly out of balance, but everything else was pretty close. The helo behaves a lot better now, but it looks like I need a lot more room to get this thing trimmed out properly than my BCX required, so I'll have to continue this outside later/tomorrow. It drifts left as it becomes light on the skids (as expected), but a little higher and the thing strafes hard to the right. And because it responds so much faster to the controls, I overcompensate, and...well...I'm very thankful for folding blades. ;) Also, it looks like I have fewer (read: none) AA batteries than I thought, and the cells I cannibalized from my BCX's Tx are on their last legs, so I'm going to have to brave the Christmas crowds to go get some more. I'm hoping that not too many people frequent Home Depot for Christmas...if I'm not back in 234543536 hours, send the rescue squad to find me... :-D One more thing: is this thing supposed to vibrate like mad until I get the head speed up (to about 1/2 throttle)?

#3223 corwyn Dec 12, 2006 12:33 AM

As for the battery, Tweekster suggested (a few pages ago) that I get the battery holder for the Blade CP. As luck would have it, I went outside to check the mailbox and found a package from BoyzToyz with the battery holder. I just installed it and got the heli to balance front/rear without any further modification. Thanks again, everybody!

#3224 jsy nobby Dec 12, 2006 12:42 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L sounds like your main rotors are a bit out of balance Corwyn....assuming you've balanced the flybar(assumption being the mother of all F :censored: :censored: k ups) making sure your rotors are balanced is the next step....Tracking,as I've already said, is important too, as one blade will create more lift than the other,this will also set up a vibration scenario...My conclusions are drawn from experience,all be it somewhat lacking in comparison to those who have been flying longer than I...... :) :) :rolleyes: ....you may also want to try loosening the screws that hold the blades on the rotorhead,that way the blades will set themselves under centrifugal force.... -Andy

#3225 johnnycat500 Dec 12, 2006 02:22 AM

2 Attachment(s) hey guys.....just wanted to share some info. first off I'm a newbie and i have hovering down pretty good. but for right now thats all i can do. i read in this thread about gws black blades. i received 2 sets today for both my fp's.i put them on and gave them a try. for me they are alot better than the esky blades. the birds seem more stable. i also needed a new canopy. i have been getting hb king canopys. this time i got hb belt-cp. [ see pic ] wrong.... way to big..so stick to the king,cool or fp canopys.i would like to thank all in this thread for all the great info...john

#3226 corwyn Dec 12, 2006 02:48 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby l

Ah yes, you were right. I rebalanced the main rotor, and somehow it was way off. Not sure what I did wrong the first time (maybe something was binding?) but it's a lot better. Also, I've discovered that one of the links from the swashplate to the flybar mount is defective, as it doesn't want to stay on the ball. If I've set the blades properly in the holders, it's smooth up to about 3/4 throttle, and then it (usually but not always) starts to vibrate like mad. So there's something else wrong...I guess I'll try balancing everything again and make sure everything's attached properly There's no problem with the blades being loose, as they won't stay tight. I have to tighten them down often to keep them from just flopping around. But I'm done with flying for the night... I finally got her up in the air and in a "hover" within a 5' diameter circle, giving just slight inputs. Suddenly, inexplicably, she dove sideways into the ground, smashing into the ground harder than I've ever crashed before. Pieces of the training gear flew everywhere, so I need to get a new set (probably the ones made for this model, since my BCX ones didn't really fit). Is there an assembly/disassembly guide for this bird? I want to take the main shaft out to make sure its straight, but I can't quite figure out how.

#3227 bhbuster Dec 12, 2006 03:08 AM

To take the shaft out: loosen the screw on the shaft collar (in the middle) after you have removed the linkage, push down on the head and remove the small pin out of the bottom of the shaft pull up - it may all be real snug You will then be able to remove the whole head assembly off of the frame There is another small pin sticking out at the top of the shaft, pull this and the head will slip off of the top of the shaft I am not sure if any of this is making sense this late at night:cool: Brian:)

#3228 johnnycat500 Dec 12, 2006 04:01 AM

1 Attachment(s) just had to post this pic...... only got one flight out of my new gws black blades...now they are junk....damn piro's...lol

#3229 corwyn Dec 12, 2006 04:03 AM

Yup, that made perfect sense, thanks! Taking the shaft out made it easier to balance the flybar (was slightly out of balance), and I also discovered that the screws of the main gear weren't tight, allowing it to wobble slightly. So...I need a new rotor head (broken ball), a new set of servo connecting rods (the loose one turns out to be broken), and new training gear. *sigh* Well, at least crash #1 is out of the way...

Quote: Originally Posted by bhbuster L

#3230 bhbuster Dec 12, 2006 04:10 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L since you will have to make a order: order an extra paddle control frame (that is the small plate that the flybar passes through and the middle linkage attach to). make sure you have some spare landind skids Brian

#3231 corwyn Dec 12, 2006 04:29 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by bhbuster l

Yup, I got one of those, and 2 rotor mounts (so I'll now have one spare of everything above the swashplate). And I have an extra set of skids that I ordered with the FP kit. I've CA'd and threaded the ball back on for now, so we'll see how well it sticks. I have a day or so to wait for bphobbies to ship my order... Too bad I'm not visiting my mother now, since she lives within a few miles of Piscataway, NJ... Well, I know where to go if I break anything while visiting over Christmas :D Thanks again!

#3232 mem Dec 12, 2006 09:52 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn l corwyn, by Christmas you should have everything under control so let’s hope you don’t need anything more over the holidays, but if you do need any last minute parts, make it the end of the week :). BPHobbies only does customer pickup on Friday afternoons and by prior arrangement

#3233 PeterVRC Dec 12, 2006 10:18 AM

A small 'hand drill' and some weeny drill bits are good for drilling through ball joints and into the 'parent' item, made for inserting a cut off dress making pin for repairs. Keep the pin head end in most cases. Then CA the lot together. They will be as strong as (or stronger than) new even!

#3234 PeterVRC Dec 12, 2006 10:25 AM

Has anyone noticed that the fly-bar can tilt enough to hit the....???? swash-plate guide pillar? You can make it hit if you tilt the fly-bar manually, they overlap at least a few millimetres, so I assume that means there would be some in-flight circumstances that could get the fly-bar down that low too(?). If you spin up the rotor and then manually tilt the heli forward reasonably fast, you can make this occur. Due to the inertia of the rotor assembly meaning it is not being able to keep up with the heli's chassis forward tilting. I am not sure if such a case would ever happen in-flight. But it isn't too good a thing to be happening! The fly-bar does not like it! Or is it just my HB that has that much travel in the fly-bar paddle control frame?

#3235 terencechan Dec 12, 2006 12:59 PM

4 Attachment(s) [QUOTE=PeterVRC]Has anyone noticed that the fly-bar can tilt enough to hit the....???? swash-plate guide pillar? You can make it hit if you tilt the fly-bar manually, they overlap at least a few millimetres, so I assume that means there would be some in-flight circumstances that could get the fly-bar down that low too(?). [QUOTE] I just make sure the flybar doesn't hit the canopy when it tilts low enough in FFF. ;) I'm using 2cell Lipo with my new 4100kv Himax now and it's significantly lighter than the 3cell that I was using previously with a 3600kv Himax. I have to slide the pack 3cm forward to balance the CG but the HB canopy does not have enough room! Hey Chris, remember you mentioned that the T-Rex canopy can be trimmed down to fit the FP2? Well, I just did that and it solved my extended battery tray problem. Since T-Rex SE's decal doesn't stand out on the black spiral CF canopy, I used the Raptor 50 decal (downsized to fit the T-Rex canopy) :) Everything's all good for Christmas now. -Terence

#3236 corwyn Dec 12, 2006 01:27 PM

This is true, thanks for pointing that out. I hope that I'll have this all sorted out by Christmas, because right now it's a bit of a nightmare trying to keep this thing under control. I ran a pack through my BCX last night to make myself feel better that my thumbs haven't gone completely spastic. :D I'll tell, you, though...I'm glad I started with a coaxial, because if I jumped right in to the hobby with the HoneyBee FP, it'd probably be packed up in its box by Christmas, collecting dust in the basement. So much easier to control, and the blades hurt less when you smack yourself with them (don't ask...) EDIT: LOL, I was just going through my email from this morning, and my eye was caught by a "25% off RC T-Rex!" ad. The gears started working in my mind, and then I realized it was from the Discovery Channel Store, and it was for an R/C Tyrannosaurus Rex. I think I need to go make myself some tea and wake up. :rolleyes:

Quote: Originally Posted by mem l

#3237 JustPlaneChris Dec 12, 2006 02:07 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L ROFLMAO! Oh, man. I'm wiping tears from my eyes. For some reason, that just struck me as hilarious. :) -Chris

#3238 black_box Dec 12, 2006 02:51 PM looks like I waited a little too long, BPhobbies changed their free shipping policy to exclude "large" orders. oh well, i'm sure i'll feel better in 8-10 days? --edit- should be here thursday!

#3239 corwyn Dec 12, 2006 02:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by PeterVRC L

Now that I'm a bit more awake, I reread this and it makes sense now. Great tip, thanks!

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box l

Yeah, I was disappointed that my ~$19 order of parts was counted as a "medium." Just to try, I removed the training gear, which dropped the total to ~$13 (and everything a small part), but it still counted for $6.25 shipping. I guess they got what they wanted, though, since I dug up a few more things to order, just to make the shipping charge worthwhile. Everybody else I tried seemed to be out of stock on the rotor head, though :(

#3240 sedohr Dec 12, 2006 03:04 PM

Is Blade CP tail rotor a replacement?

I'm assuming the Blade CP tail rotor is a replacement for the FP2's? The HB CP2 and the FP2 have the same part number for the rotor... Can someone confirm who also has a Blade CP? Thanks, Randy

#3241 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 12, 2006 03:15 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sedohr L I use the carbon fiber tail rotor for the blade on my cp2 and it works great. It does cost alot if you don't catch it on a close out but fits like a glove on a honey bee. So I would have to say the blade tail rotor will fit fine and work well.

#3242 JustPlaneChris Dec 12, 2006 03:40 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mrmuffinmanvw L Do you notice any difference in tail response with the CF rotor compared to the plastic one? I've been trying to decide if it's worth the money, since I'm not into 'bling'. I only want it if the performance is better. :) -Chris

#3243 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 12, 2006 03:49 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L Yes Chris I found the tail to be quicker with the carbon fiber rotor I got it for $6 so I gave it a try I liked the way it seemed to hold the tail also. My cp2 has the duel tail motors like yours. I see your selling your hornet I just flew my new belt cp this morning and it is impressive to say the least. After looking around at what was available I decided to check out the belt cp bp has them for $95 and I find them great to deal with.

#3244 DangerBird Dec 12, 2006 05:17 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L

I was also wondering if anybody has tried a larger tail rotor blade? I have seen them for the HB FP on several of the UK sites but not in the US. Also, who makes the CF blade? I am not into Bling either Chris! :eek: I have been talking with the the other Heli guys at the field asking if thier choppers fly any better Blinged and the response is usually "no but it looks cool" They also comment that Bling doesn't usually break but from what I have seen, something has to give and its usually the frame or something else more expensive. :eek: There has also been a large number of major chopper crashes and midairs :eek: at our field lately. So far, the HB FP has not been affected. :cool: If I am flying and a chopper crashes, I usually circle the HB FP over the (sometimes smoking) wreckage. :rolleyes: -Mike

#3245 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 12, 2006 06:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird L I have tried the dragonfly 4 tail rotor which is bigger than the stock fp tail rotor it didn't seem to make much difference. I am not into bling either as the old saying goes chrome won't get you home. Bling usually means weight and that doesn't work well with electric helis like the super skids that everybody took back off there FP.

#3246 jsy nobby Dec 12, 2006 06:26 PM

1 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

Corwyn, I've posted a scan of the assembly diagram for you,it maybe a little hard to read the small print but you can see where all the bits go,hope this helps, -Andy

#3247 JustPlaneChris Dec 12, 2006 06:46 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mrmuffinmanvw L

I've decided to keep the Hornet for now, but it's relegated to "wall hangar" status until I figure out what to do with it. I thought about picking up a Belt CP, but I've already got a T-Rex, so it seemed kinda redundant. :rolleyes: So.... the carbon tail is quicker. Methinks it's time to drag out the CF cloth and epoxy resin and go nuts with some homebrew experiments. :D Besides, I need to make some more CF sheet for myself, I have this frame I need to make for a home-brew CP2 belt drive conversion I've been tinkering with. Again. :rolleyes: -Chris

#3248 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 12, 2006 07:24 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris l

So your tinkering around with making a home brew cp2 belt drive. I was thinking the same thing but thought it would have to be a little longer for the extra weight and maybe use king or cool blades, for more lift oh well just a thought.

#3249 JustPlaneChris Dec 12, 2006 08:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mrmuffinmanvw L Yep, this will be the second attempt. First attempt failed due to not being able to get the belt drive pulley concentric with the main shaft. That problem is solved, thanks to spare parts from the HDX300. Weight-wise, it should only be about 20g heavier than stock, based on the first attempt. And I already run (trimmed) King blades on my CP2. They rock. :cool: Sorry... WAY off FP topic. :o -Chris

#3250 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 12, 2006 08:46 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L So I was thinking after it is all said and done won't you kinda have a king in cp2 clothing. Doesn't bp have the cool on sale for $95 ??? ok rolleyes I guess we have to tinker with something to keep out of trouble. As long as it comes out lighter than the king I can see it why not.

#3251 garylee33 Dec 12, 2006 08:50 PM

Gotta a question for you guys. Do any of you ever fly 3s packs with your FP? I know the general population here uses 2s common sense packs and really like to "keep it light". But, I am stuck on my super skids and with the added weight, the 2s packs are real dogs. I have tried my 3s TP pack and it rocks. The tail has a bit of a problem keeping up (but what else is new?) The main motor doesn't get hot. So, I guess what I am wondering is. Does anyone fly 3s packs with the FP? Thanx Gary

#3252 corwyn Dec 12, 2006 08:55 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

Thanks, Andy. Now that I think of it, one of those came in the box, but got put aside in favor of the "instruction manual" and was promptly forgotten. My CA'd and threaded rotor head isn't holding up, so in spite of my rebuilt training gear, I think I'm going to have to wait until my bphobbies shipment comes in a few days. Bad things happen when that link breaks in mid-flight, too. I accidentally let the bird get too high in the air, and as I was trying to throttle down to get her to descend, I guess the piece broke and she swooped down at me in a valiant attempt to eviscerate. Hurt like a :censored: but at least the plastic blades didn't do me any damage (or dive a few inches lower). Glad I didn't upgrade to the sharpened carbon steel ones ;)

#3253 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 12, 2006 08:55 PM

Well I guess we should get back on subject I got my FP back togeather after trying to use it for a chain saw [ the tree didn't even get a scratch]. Total cost of repairs some ca and thread and around $8 worth of parts and she was back in the air almost good as new she is a survivor just a few scars.

#3254 corwyn Dec 12, 2006 08:57 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mrmuffinmanvw L

Sounds like a good candidate for sharpened carbon steel blades. :D

#3255 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 12, 2006 09:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by garylee33 L The problem with running 3s packs is that the fp is fixed pitch and can only spool up so fast before the tail can't keep up and the tail motor burns out. So the answer is duel tail motors [doesn't that make it weigh more] There is no easy way to say it the fp is a $41 airframe and very weight sensitive it is best to fly it with a 8oo mAh lipo and some small improvements head stiffiner heat sinks fuses the basics and fly it like you stole it.

#3256 7AC Dec 12, 2006 11:22 PM

I finally got around to reading the Beginners Guide to Electric Helicopters posted thru this forum. What is interesting is that they recommend an FP that has about a 24in bladespan and costs about 10 times more than the Honeybee. They go that route so that a novice can learn to fly outside. I think they misdirect a lot of folks...the indoor route with the Honeybee seems more logical to me. Has anyone ever tried the Corona? If so, do you think it would produce more pilots with less frustration than say a Honeybee, Trex route?

#3257 kryptoniteRxn Dec 12, 2006 11:42 PM

HI all, i just received my HB EK1H-E004 (i think it means HB II Mark IV-since tha was the title when i bought it at radentech). Man, it says RTF on the box but i got an uneasy feelin :o , cant be that easy, so i read this thread...holy :censored: , what's with the water break-in thing that looks like a nuclear plant jizzin acid :eek: and..and..then retiming for reversed and nonreversed motors at 300mm, 400mm 350mm??? :eek: I kinda understand water break-in thing, so ima give it a try: but water and electricity? anyway, on three, i'll drop the motor in water and hope the best: 1...2...3... :o

#3258 jsy nobby Dec 12, 2006 11:49 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by garylee33 L

Gary, I too went through this phase....don't get me wrong,heavy is good outside and if you're stuck with "super anchors" then ensure you get dual tail motors,3 cell 11.1v lipos fry stuff on your heli if you don't soak up the extra power...I got through 2 main motors,2 servos,2 tail motors,a pinion and a 4-in-1 on 10c 1200mah lipo batteries...I'm now flying a brushless machine that weighs 280 grams on 2 cell lipos,I've since lost the super anchors and have an ally rotorhead stiffener in place and it flies really well....take it from someone who has lots of fried heli bits kicking around...whatever you do,don't use an HB king motor without the relevant speed controller....runs the 4-in1 so hot that the solder melts and the chips drop off the PCB....pretty disastrous stuff at 20 ft.... :D :D :D :eek: :eek: JPC will back me up on this one...keep it light and therefore cheap to fly m8.... -Andy

#3259 jsy nobby Dec 12, 2006 11:51 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 7AC L

Radd's school of rotary flight is a bit more user friendly...

#3260 jsy nobby Dec 13, 2006 12:17 AM

1 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn L

Don't worry about the water and electricity myth...it does'nt apply in this case!!! A wet broken and timed motor are good for your heli!!! As you can see from the colour of the water,the discolouration is waste carbon that would otherwise build up on the commutator of the motor....5 minutes of Immersion is long enough....and yep,you're absolutely correct,it would seem only a selected few get to fly a Honeybee FP straight out of the box without it shaking itself to pieces... :rolleyes: -Andy

#3261 mwood4494 Dec 13, 2006 12:40 AM

Xheli.com question

Has anyone had a negative experience with Xheli? I ordered some parts and got an email stating parts shipped 3 day express. 9 days later I email them to check the status of my order that didn't arrived and they responded 48hours later with an email that 1 of the parts was on backorder so they were holding my "shipped" order until the part was in stock?????? No email stating the order would be held due to backordered part?, Email stating the part shipped when they didn't, 48 hours to reply to an email???? About the only thing they did right was charge my credit card!!!! Is this an isolated incident, or normal business practice with this company? I'm a little hesitant to order from them again and will use BPHobbies from now on I guess. :(

#3262 jsy nobby Dec 13, 2006 12:58 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mwood4494 L

Patience young Jedi...good things come to those who wait.... :cool:

#3263 mwood4494 Dec 13, 2006 01:01 AM

I don't mind being patient...being mislead and uninformed bothers me :)

#3264 Gino CP Dec 13, 2006 01:17 AM

I wish somebody does systematic testing comparing a stock motor used out of the box and a water-broken motor. I've tried water break in during my rc car racing days. Frankly I see no difference in the way they break-in the brushes. Seat of the pants assessment doesn't cut it anymore. Carbon in the water is not enough proof because as we know it, after running the motor in the heli, carbon will be all over the place anyway.

#3265 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 13, 2006 02:45 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP L Gino I think its more the way the brushes break in while under water. If you check out the motor before the water break in it arcs big time under power after it seems alot better.

#3266 TooTall Dec 13, 2006 03:41 AM

I use alot of brushed motors of the 300 to 400 size in planes (trainers) ..I have never used the water break in ..when I received the HB II I didn't use it either ...I do however treat them like a new lipo for a few flights and run them easy...I believe you can achieve the same effect by just hooking up the motor to 2 AA batteries and leave it run for a few minutes ...spray with an electric motor cleaner ( I use Power Shot , found at your LHS ) ..I now have just over 3 hours of time on my HB II and the motor is due for a cleaning spray ...Using the cleaner will prolong motor life ..How long ..who knows , not all small electric motors are created equally and we do not use them the same as our fellow flyers...Hell , fly em till they quit and replace ...It seems silly to upgrade the HoneyBee FP other than a head stiffener maybe ...Enjoy it for what it is worth ...done now ...Tom

#3267 Mortor Dec 13, 2006 04:10 AM

Nuts - Xheli says they're out of stock. Mort.

#3268 warpspeed Dec 13, 2006 04:27 AM

Speaking of motors, it seems the cure for the Hb's anemic outdoor performance, short of going brushless, is upgrading to 3s lipo's and dual tail motors, but has anyone considered simply re-gearing? I'm a car guy new to the helicopter world, but right now "micros" (1/18th scale electrics) are all the rage and most are powered by 370 sized motors. These are high torque, high rpm ball-raced units with adjustable timing and replaceable brushes. Sure they're more expensive, but it seems like it would be an easy method to obtain a desirable head speed. I've only had my HB for a week, hoping it would be a good bird to learn with, but it's just too big to fly in the house. However, a cat's sneeze sends the thing out of control outside, so unless I can find a big empty warehouse or do something about the power it's not much use to me. Now obviously I'm pretty ignorant about helicopters so I may be way off base, but assuming the 4-in-1 can handle it wouldn't this be a viable alternative? Is there something I'm missing? Have any of you guys tried this yet? My thought here is that with a high powered "car" motor, you could gear way down to get the desired head speed, which would increase efficiency and extend flight time. (battery life) The motor would run cooler as well being geared low. I guess the question is, is the amp draw determined by the motor or by the esc? In other words, if one of these motors is rated at say 20 amps, will it draw that much or is it limited to what the esc can provide? Or am I just dreaming? :o

#3269 JustPlaneChris Dec 13, 2006 04:32 AM

Anemic outdoor performance? Can't fly in a cat's sneeze? Are we talking about the same helicopter? :) Windy day FP flying video Horsing around in the street with FP video Unless you are at high altitudes, there really isn't much that needs to be done to enhance performance beyond what I've got with mine. If you want more, you need a different helicopter... -Chris

#3270 Gino CP Dec 13, 2006 04:37 AM

For general flying you won't gain from a faster head speed. The heli will still hover at its optimum head speed. What you do gain is in punch outs and FFF. Dual tail is a nice idea but due to the low optimum hovering head speed, left turn piros will remain stock slow. So you have fast right turns but slow left turns. A route to take is perhaps have wooden blades made with conservative pitch. This allows you to hover with higher head speed and the benefits derived from it. But at the end of the day, the best "upgrade" is to buy a CP2. Put dual tails and you are done.

#3271 warpspeed Dec 13, 2006 04:40 AM

Sorry, didn't mean to offend you. I'm at roughly 5600 ft and the SLIGHTEST breeze puts the bird out of control. Remember, I'm trying to learn how to fly. Maybe I've just got a lemon? I watched your vid's and my HB has nowhere NEAR that kind of power.

#3272 warpspeed Dec 13, 2006 04:45 AM

Thank you Gino, for not being condescending and providing a less biased answer. I suppose you're right, maybe I should just go straight to CP, but so many people have recommended I begin with a fixed pitch heli that I really thought that was the right choice for a beginner. I won't bother you guys again.

#3273 johnnycat500 Dec 13, 2006 04:46 AM great video's chris....wish i could fly that good

#3274 JustPlaneChris Dec 13, 2006 04:51 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by johnnycat500 l Thanks! Keep practicing, that's what I do. :) The windy day video was about 2 months after I got my FP, the other was about 2 months after that. -Chris

#3275 JustPlaneChris Dec 13, 2006 04:57 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by warpspeed L

Warpspeed, I wasn't offended, and I'm sorry if my reply came across as condescending or biased! I certainly did not intend it to be that way. :o Your profile did not indicate your location, but if you are at 5600 ft, that makes a huge difference. You may want to consider regearing (11T or 12T) to get a bit more speed to the rotors. 3 cells would an alternative, but you might have to go to dual tail motors if you do that for better tail control and longer motor life. And if you're still in the early stages of learning, yes a breeze can make it really hard to keep under control. Higher head speed will help. Please, don't let a misunderstanding drive you away. We want you to have fun and get your FP flying great. :) -Chris

#3276 Gino CP Dec 13, 2006 04:58 AM

Oh the Honeybee FP is a good fun heli. I never had one but plan to get a set for everyday casual flying. If you haven't done so, change all the motors and give your FP a new lease on life. Keep it light too. A 750mah 2S lipo should do the trick. Keep us posted.

#3277 TooTall Dec 13, 2006 05:01 AM

"Flying in the street" ..Chris , you make it look like too much fun....Are the main and tail rotor blades ones that you have painted ..I remember way back when you painted the rotor blades ...makes them very easy to see in the vid...just wondering about the weight gain ..I am well below 9 ounces with mine until I add the hughes 500 body ...then I am over 9 but less than 10 ...thanks for your inspiration on the forum ...Tom

#3278 JustPlaneChris Dec 13, 2006 05:04 AM

Tom, those are the painted stock blades. Weight gain was about 1 gram total. I tried the GWS gray blades, but decided I like the stock ones better. -Chris

#3279 johnnycat500 Dec 13, 2006 05:19 AM

1 Attachment(s) hey chris ..I got some gws black blades yesterday. i like them but i only hover for right now. i only got 1 battery with them and i did this...lol...damn piro's

#3280 JustPlaneChris Dec 13, 2006 05:26 AM

LOL! Hey, that's a great way to store your heli... I just don't think trying to land it that way is a good idea. ;) -Chris

#3281 TooTall Dec 13, 2006 05:37 AM

Looks like a good time to cut one of those down to a Moth ..don't know how the edf would work on a Moth because of weight but may be something to consider ...You need 3 or 4 HB II's just so you can have a moth for the not so bad off blades..Tom

#3282 Gino CP Dec 13, 2006 05:49 AM

EDF will work because you chop the tail for a moth. And with the prop protected by the shroud, it can be very close to the main blades if required or desired. It will be some ridiculous heli though hehehe.

#3283 johnnycat500 Dec 13, 2006 05:51 AM what is the moth?....any one have a link so I can view it

#3284 TooTall Dec 13, 2006 06:02 AM

Look here....http://www.helihobby.com/html/sub-micro.html

#3285 Rare Bear Dec 13, 2006 07:20 AM

Like that video, Chris! I think the bugs wanted to communicate w/ your heli, though! Nice flying, too - gotta love the gentle qualities of this beautiful little bird. Now, if only the rain would stop & the wind would die down! :( God bless - "Rare"

#3286 kryptoniteRxn Dec 13, 2006 07:46 AM

:censored: aww man, i think i have a dud! Just got me HBII mk4 today, been busy preping it up, and the moment of judgement dictated that my 4-in-1 may be bad. I turned on the Tx, batt status on orange (new batts), plugged the Rx' JST to batt and the 4-in-1 blinked red, then steady red, and it stayed steady red.....no green :mad: . I put in aileron L/R and it responds but thro and rudder are dead. Im lookin at that #### right now...it's lookin back at me, i think it's laughing too. :mad:

#3287 kryptoniteRxn Dec 13, 2006 07:48 AM this blows, im going to sleep. tomorrow is a new day.

#3288 Z400Flyer Dec 13, 2006 07:51 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn l

Can you contact the company and see if there is a replacement?

#3289 mem Dec 13, 2006 09:11 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn l Have you tried lowering the throttle trim lever. The 4-in-1 wont arm the ESC if it thinks the throttle is not zeroed.

#3290 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 13, 2006 11:11 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn l Check to see that both cystrals are pluged in on my first fp the cystral wasn't pluged in on the rx the red light is telling you its not getting a signal.

#3291 DangerBird Dec 13, 2006 03:30 PM

Throttle trim should be all the way down as well as the throttle for the 4 in 1 to arm. I usually put the throttle at half, plug the chopper in and set it down then pull the throttle full down to complete the arming process. This way I am not moving the chopper while the gyro initializes. -Mike

#3292 corwyn Dec 13, 2006 03:39 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird L

That's a good idea... Gyros (and 4-in-1's) are a black box to me, so I wasn't sure if it would work properly...and given how my HBFP freaks out when I forget and turn off the Tx without disconnecting the battery, I was afraid to try. My BCX twitches a bit when I do that, but the HBFP spins up the blades enough to spin the whole thing around and then crash over onto its side. Not the sort of thing I want to have my hands/arms/face around when it happens. :eek: I wired a small switch into my BCX (haven't gotten one for my HBFP yet) to minimize the movement after connecting power. But now that I know that the throttle method is safe to do, I can save myself the (albeit tiny) weight.

#3293 DangerBird Dec 13, 2006 05:30 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

This process has worked hundreds of times on mine without an issue. I am using a Hitech Eclipse transmitter with my HB FP and in its current configuration there are several mode switches on the top of the transmitter that will also inhibit the arming of the 4 in 1 and throwing these switches into thier proper position also allowes the arming process to proceed. I have gathered that when the light is solid red nothing is happening. Its the flashing green to a solid green when the gyro is going thru its initialization and when the chopper should be kept still. I just put it down after I plug it in, start the initialization/speedo arming process with a switch or throttle down setting and wait 10 seconds then take off. Hope this helps clarify this. -Mike

#3294 jsy nobby Dec 13, 2006 06:07 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn l

Oh dear, another one who did'nt read the manual....push the throttle stick all the way down as well as the trim sliders then plug the battery in and I'll wager it'll work just fine :D :D :D _andy

#3295 corwyn Dec 13, 2006 06:11 PM

Ok, stupid question time once again...I went back to read through more of this thread, and I noticed that some people are using Futaba transmitters instead of the stock one. Considering how quickly the stock one seems to eat batteries (kind of like my BCX one), getting a transmitter I may use for a future heli might be something to consider. I tried to do a search, but found too many threads (try searching for "PCM FM" and see how many matches you get!). From what I did get from the Tower Hobbies website, it seems like PCM is way to go for more accurate control. But since the HBFP is an FM system, it won't work with PCM without changing the electronics. Does this line in the description of the 72MHz Futaba 7CAP mean that I can do either PCM or FM: "Modulation: FM/PPM or PCM, switchable" In other words, will this work? Also, as an aside...does anybody happen to know if it'll also work with my BCX? I don't know what "negative shift" means, but apparently that's what I need for the BCX. Other Futabas seem to work, according to what I read. Thanks again for putting up with my ignorance and helping to educate me :)

#3296 corwyn Dec 13, 2006 06:14 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

He just doesn't know how to read Chinglish :D Although, I shouldn't make too much fun, since Janglish isn't any better (I'm of Japanese descent...). When I was a kid, I had a pair of pajamas from Japan that said "Graze you: because he don't no time running through the green." and my brother had a pair that said "E=mc^2: The Earth is brimming over with passion. Well, let's play about." :confused: :confused: :confused:

#3297 jsy nobby Dec 13, 2006 06:34 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

Not 100% sure on this one Corwyn but I think all you need to swap out are the crystals,I'm still flying with the stock Esky Tx and I think "negative shift" is the ability to reverse the servos via the transmitter....Hope you've managed to sort out the vibration problem..... Some languages just don't translate too well do they? -Andy

#3298 mem Dec 13, 2006 06:52 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn l I would think the HB FP will work with any Futaba FM transmitter with 4 or more channels (in ppm mode, not PCM). You need to make sure that the crystals are the same frequency and you will need to reverse some of the channels (I can check on my 6EXA if you can’t find the info in this thread) negative shift refers to the pulse encoding method and is what ESky use in the 4-in-1. You do not need any helicopter mixes for the FP but if you plan to move on to a colective pitch helicopter then it would be a good investment. Perhaps someone else can comment on the BCX

#3299 corwyn Dec 13, 2006 06:59 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

Yeah, that's the direction in which I'm leaning, too. Seems like it should work...but it's also ~$270 I don't need to spend right now if it doesn't work. I added more thread and CA to hold my rotor head together, and I went through some horrific crashes yesterday with no ill effects. I've balanced, and rebalanced, and balanced some more...but I still get some pretty bad vibration. I disconnected the main motor and the tail seems fine. I disconnected the tail motor and removed the main rotor hub, and the flybar assembly seems fine. But when I put the main rotor back on, it vibrates like mad. I've done my best to balance CG (required a LOT of tape) on the rotors, then balanced for weight (using a LOT of tape around the CG line of the light blade). I'm still waiting on that scale, but I attached both blades to the rotor head and balanced them on the edge of an open pair of scissors. The flybar paddles are level, the blade tracking seems good....I don't know what else to check. After destroying my old training gear for a second time (kind of funny to crash the heli and have ping-pong balls go flying everywhere), I discovered that I have an easier time hovering (well, not really hovering, but my circle is smaller) without them...but harder to land ;) Is it just me, or is the bird somewhat sluggish to respond to the controls? With my BCX, I had no problem using light inputs to keep it in a hover. But with the HBFP, it seems to take a bit longer for the bird to respond, and so I give it a little more, which turns out to be too much input, and I've overcorrected. A lot of this is probably my inexperience, but I'm just wondering if it's all inexperience, or if something else is wrong... I can't even get it stable enough to figure out how to trim it...and if I descend back down into ground effect, I really can't control it at all.

#3300 corwyn Dec 13, 2006 07:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L

Great, thanks! I'm hoping to get good enough (eventually) with the FP to move onto a CP bird, so that's why I'm thinking of a Tx that will be good for the future, too. It sounds like the E-Sky and E-Flite 4-in-1's both have the same requirements, so I could probably go both ways with the one Tx. I don't think I'll ever be good enough to fly both at once :D, and if anybody else wants to fly the other one at the same time, I can always dig up the original Tx.

#3301 corwyn Dec 13, 2006 07:11 PM

Ok, Futaba has "dual conversion" and "short" crystals...which type does the E-Sky 4-in-1 use?

#3302 DangerBird Dec 13, 2006 07:28 PM

BP hobbies sells the full line of crystals for the Esky stuff. Thats where I got mine to change to my usual channel like everything else I have. I would suggest using those because they work. Dirt cheap at $3 for a xmitter and matching rec crystal. The 4 in 1 is single conversion BTW.

#3303 jsy nobby Dec 13, 2006 07:36 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

I think therein lies the problem, when i tried the tape method I found too much upsets the aerodynamics of the rotor blade and makes the problem worse instead of better,If you can,try and rig up a way of balancing the whole rotor assembly by the balls...that sounds really pervy! Any way you could get the rotors to "see- saw" will help,and trimming the excess weight off the heavier blade will help no end...some folks in this thread say hacking bits off the blades is a no-no but my heli flies full bore with no vibes whatsoever...your heli will respond much better to your inputs if it's not shaking it's srews loose. To get better cyclic response you can move the flybar weights closer to the main shaft,remembering to re-balance the flybar afterwards,some of us rotorheads have removed them altogether...the other thing you can do is pop off the ring links that attach the swashplate to the flybar control plate,turn the arms on the swashplate through 90 degrees and pop the rings back on to the longer arms. Don't do any of this until you've gotten rid of the vibrations as adjustments'll just make your heli more squirrely...also check and make sure that the swashplate sits at 90 degrees to the main axis,(whichever way you look at your heli)when the Right stick and trims are set at neutral positions, IE the big mark in the middle of the slider's travel,you adjust this by popping off the ring link that attaches the servos to the swashplate and turn them to extend or shorten the overall length...can I stop typing now please 'cos my fingers are starting to bleed.... :D :D :D Bit long winded I know but will make hovering a pleasure rather than a pain in the butt! -Andy

#3304 mem Dec 13, 2006 07:40 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L Single and dual conversion refer to the receiver crystal, not the transmitter. You could get a transmitter crystal for the Futaba that is the same frequency as your existing Esky crystal. I don't know if an ESky transmitter crystal will work well in the Futaba but perhaps DangerBird has checked this out already.

#3305 DoomsDay Dec 13, 2006 07:52 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Mortor L

Hehe, sorry about that, I think me and a co worker bought the last two they had because they went out of stock after us. Can't wait to get it in and rekindle my love for flying =)

#3306 sedohr Dec 13, 2006 07:55 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn l

Are you running completely stock on the head or have you done any mods? I just went thru the same experience.... thought because my main gear wobbles that I had a bad shaft cause I had a nasty vibration right from the get-go at throttle up...... Soon as I popped the head to check the shaft vibration (did this by checking the top of the center hub for any vibrations or 'bluriness' when I spun up) the thing smoothed right out. I went and mounted a stock head and blade combo and no vibrations at all.....so I knew the prob was with the old head/blades. I've since eliminated the head itself and have it mounted again (I have the thru-bolt mod so I want to fly with that head if I can).....so it's either the set of blades or the head stiffener I made...... still chasing. I guess in my long winded way i'm trying to say - first, go back to a completely stock setup if you're not there yet (head/blades) and work you're way through it. Hope this helps, Randy Ohio

#3307 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 13, 2006 08:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L Esky and Futaba work togeather Esky crystals are single conversion negitive shift most futaba radios will go single or dual conversion but have a low and high I think up to channel 33 is low and over 33 is high so you must match the crystal for the RX with the crystal thats in theTX you can get crystals from bp hobbies for $3 a set they work great.

#3308 corwyn Dec 13, 2006 08:10 PM

Thanks for the help, guys! I'll peel off all the tape from my main rotor and try again with the "hack and slash" method that worked for my BCX. Should I try to balance the CG of each blade first, then work on balancing the two blades against each other as you suggest, or just go straight for the balls :eek: ? And who knows...maybe it's the vibrations that are causing my handling problems (in addition to inexperience, of course) (Hmm...handling balls, battery-operated vibrating machines....which forum is this again? :p :D ) I'll look into getting a Futaba after the holidays...have to let the wallet stop smoking from all the Christmas presents and other helicopter-induced expenses. Last thing I need is to have to start keeping my credit cards in a Battery Bunker or an ammo box :D

#3309 corwyn Dec 13, 2006 08:14 PM

Except for the CA and thread to hold the ball of the rotor head on, everything's stock, but the vibrations were also happening before I broke the head. Of course, maybe it was unbalanced blades that caused the vibrations out of the box, and now it's the repaired head that's doing it now... I hope that my order from BPH gets here soon so I can test it. (2nd day and still neither confirmation nor shipping email from them, but they did hit my credit card).

Quote: Originally Posted by sedohr L

#3310 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 13, 2006 08:27 PM

[QUOTE=corwyn]Thanks for the help, guys! I'll look into getting a Futaba after the holidays... The best thing you can do is go with a good radio I got a Futaba 6EXHP off this forem for cheap new they only cost $169.00 thats with 4 servos and a rx. I just got the TX I already had other electronics plus what came in the FP set up was a breeze and its like driving a corvette after a mini van.

#3311 sedohr Dec 13, 2006 08:47 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

I always get the CG first but not sure on these low head speed birds if it's mandatory - I just like practicing consistent habits. You'd probably want to make sure the CG is somewhat close though so that variable is eliminated from the problem. Also, mount your head w/o the blades and spin it up and see if the very top of the head is vibration/blurry free..... small vibrations in each component can add up to large issues down the road..... If that all checks out then the only thing not on your bird is the blades.... CG, balance and tracking should take care of that. oh, one other thing..... do you have much slop in the blade movement when it's placed around the collar on the head? i suspect that' my issue.... you might want to try this fix: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/atta...chmentid=884064 Tighten the blades when using the o-rings..... Also, I like to pick the bird up.... grab the tail boom just behind the servo, making sure my hand/arm is angled down of course, and then spin up.... it eliminates the....crap, forget the name....but it gets it off the table and off its skids and you can feel vibrations easier that way..... Randy Ohio

#3312 jsy nobby Dec 13, 2006 09:24 PM crude but effective...

7 Attachment(s) Corwyn, I've been racking my brains as to how to help you balance rotors and came up with this...you'll need to be a bit nifty at bending and grinding small bits of metal. All you need to make this is a wire coathanger,a piece of plywood and a metal strip from a car windshield wiper, don't go nicking one from your neighbour's car and getting in trouble with said neighbour/not-so-friendly law enforcement officer....I found the real test of this gadget was to turn the rotor assembly down side up....the blades still balanced well! You need to ensure that the blades are set as they would be if they were on your heli....hope this helps dude... -Andy

#3313 PeterVRC Dec 13, 2006 09:26 PM

I have the 'through bolt' mod on my rotor blade mount bolts, so that I can run them loosely fitted or tight. When I first did it, it seemed almost great to have the blades quite loose and let the G-forces automatically pull them out to 'perfect' position. It was surprising how you could start with the blades at any insane angle from rest and have them fling out to be perfect and vibration free in no time after spin up. But as a bit of time went on it did not all seem as good anymore. I had some slight vibration I could not find or remove. So I went back to locking down the bolts quite tight. If you have them tight (not rock solid!) you really need to get those blade angles aligned very accurately, to prevent vibrations, because even the slightest angle amiss will cause vibrations. Verging on imperceptible visual alignment difference. But when you do set them right it is a smooth as silk heli! And flies and responds better with the really rigid assembly then. One downside of the loose method is that in contact with an obstacle the blades can very easily get right around and shear off the rotor head ball link rod(s)! Whereas when tighter the blades will bind up sooner and stop rotating around the mounting bolt before they get to those links! So all in all I would say a 'firm fit' gives the best overall results in flight characteristics and in allowing the blades to absorb energy on contact but still keep them from doing other damage to the links/head. And that O-ring idea posted higher up looks like a good idea really.

#3314 PeterVRC Dec 13, 2006 09:29 PM

That seems a great balancing idea JSY. I'm going to go and make one and give it a try right away!

#3315 sedohr Dec 13, 2006 09:30 PM fav method of head removal/install?

So...... what's everyones favorite method in removing and installing the main rotor head? Take the blades off first? use some tool to pry? just "go for it", blades and all? I just cringe everytime I remove it because I'm applying so much force but the worst (for me anyways) is putting it back on. I just don't know the best place to grab to get good leverage in either scenario..... Sometime i put my thumbs under the swash plate but that seems to put a lot of force on that component...... maybe I just don't have enough faith in the little fella yet...... Randy Ohio

#3316 PeterVRC Dec 13, 2006 09:37 PM

I used to grab the head/shaft assy with pointy pliers, seeing it is the closest main point of the head assy to the rotor hub rocker mount. Then just grab the rotor hub and tilt the blades and it pops off quite easily really. (don't forget to remove the fly-bar to rotor head ball links first!!) In the early days you are a bit scared...then over time it becomes no big deal. These days I don't even use the pliers anymore, I just use thumb and fore-finger into the main assy. Eventually you learn all the things you can do 'safely', versus the overly ginger manner you do things at first! lol But it is still always better to err on the side of being safer than sorry! eg best is to use the pliers for holding the head/shaft assy.

#3317 jsy nobby Dec 13, 2006 09:55 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sedohr L

It usually takes a prang to pop off the rotorhead so it takes just as much force to remove one by hand.... just pop one end off the bearing before the other,I've done this loads of times and not broken one yet... -Andy

#3318 sedohr Dec 13, 2006 10:18 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L ahhhhhhhh..... I get to expand my cultural understandings today - just what is a "prang" in your parts of the world Andy??? :o I know 'Jersey' is an island but I can't place the locale...... Randy Ohio

#3319 corwyn Dec 13, 2006 10:26 PM

Wow, leave for a little while and all sorts of posts pop up :) That's a really good looking balancer, Andy. I wonder if it would be better to use some needles at the end to really reduce the amount of friction between the balance and the ball ends? I've been using 2 glasses to hold up the balls for the static balance (although, now that I think of it...wine glasses would be thinner and less likely to bind), but when I get some time, I'll have to put one of those together. Fortunately, its about time to change the wipers on my car, so no need to nick anything from the neighbors ;) Thanks again to everybody for the suggestions. When I get some good results (or exhaust the possibilities and am on the verge of going mad) I'll let you guys know. BTW...what's a "prang"? I pop the head off with my fingers, just carefully so as not to break anything.

#3320 corwyn Dec 13, 2006 10:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sedohr l

Jersey's in the UK. I think "C.I." stands for Channel Islands. EDIT: http://www.jersey.co.uk/

#3321 corwyn Dec 13, 2006 10:29 PM

Hmmm...a crash? Prang From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search Prang can mean:- * A slang word for an aircraft (or other vehicle) crashing: see wiktionary: prang, accidents and incidents in aviation, motor-vehicle collision. * A prang is a type of South-East Asian temple spire. * A slang name for cocaine * A Pranger is a type of German public humiliation device.

#3322 Ledbetter Dec 13, 2006 10:32 PM

"BTW...what's a "prang"? I pop the head off with my fingers, just carefully so as not to break anything." That's a PRAWN, isn't it? Mmm, the heads are good eatin' too!

#3323 kryptoniteRxn Dec 13, 2006 10:34 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird L

The answer to my heli's problem!!! Thanx, i read the manual twice but somehow missed this. Tx came with thro trim at lowest, but i moved it up to middle, just a habit from flying the T-rex. I think i have to abandon all i know from the other heli, it's just a different bird, much more responsive and crisp. This HBFP tend to drift around alot unless i put in massive cyclic input. I even had to take out the two collars on the paddle rod to get cyclic back to normal, just so i could keep it steady. Overall, it's a great heli, relatively stable (no death vibration), out the box almost ready to fly, just minor prop and gyro adjustments. Headspeed is much more friendly than the Rex. Last, at $94.69 shipped to my door, i can't complain much. lol Questions: -When throtle all the way up (during flight), the 4-in-1's light turns red, what does this mean? -I also have a hard time tracking the main rotors, one blade always higher than the other regardless how much twisting i put them under. Are there better blades?

#3324 JustPlaneChris Dec 13, 2006 10:43 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn L The red light just indicates you are at full throttle. It's weird, sometimes the stock blades track great, other people report tracking issues. Same for the GWS gray blades. I bought some of those, and couldn't get them to track worth poop, but my stockers track fine! :confused: I do have the "through bolt" mod on my head, and run them fairly loose, so maybe that's why they track better? -Chris

#3325 kryptoniteRxn Dec 13, 2006 10:58 PM

I think it's due to the plastic composition and the molecule alignment (when plastic is poured, it flows in certain direction). These factors are affected by weather, they cause the blades to warp in certain ways. I'm just wondering is there's a way to overcome this, like heating them up and bend them, if the composites can remember.

#3326 jsy nobby Dec 13, 2006 11:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAA, I guess the first and last definitions are the one's that are most definetly applicable....it's real easy to humiliate yourself in public with one of these "devices"!!!!!! :D :D :D :D :D

#3327 hallstudio Dec 13, 2006 11:11 PM do you think the $89 deal is gone for good? anyone find this heli close to $89 from another vender. i would like to get a spare.

#3328 jsy nobby Dec 13, 2006 11:12 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sedohr l

Just so as your curiosity is satisfied,I live on a 9 x 5 mile outcrop of granite just off the north coast of La belle France,If you type Jersey into Google Earth you'll see exactly where I live and as you may have already noticed from previous posts, Prang means to crash....Nice to make your aquaintance Sedohr....welcome to the best thread in the world!!!! :p :p :p -Andy

#3329 jsy nobby Dec 13, 2006 11:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn L

There is a way....remove the offending blade from the rotorhead and warm up the widest part of the blade with a hair dryer,then hold it in the palm of your hand and give it a good squeeze...... while it's still warm,try to kind of roll it in your hand to make the blade more curved towards the trailing edge and blow on it to make it cool when you're happy that you've increased the curvature a bit....Fly it,try it,and if it does'nt work....modify it.... -Andy

#3330 corwyn Dec 13, 2006 11:40 PM

Alright, so I followed as many of the instructions as I could with tools on hand: 1) removed blades from rotor head, reinstalled: no vibration 2) removed tape from main rotor blades, reset CG, balanced across 2 wine glasses 3) reinstalled blades with screws tight but not too tight (although, by the end of my testing, they were about as loose as the screws in my head) I forgot to set tracking, but I think it's ok since my reaction was...wow! There was a bit of a vibration at the start (I imagine it was the blades setting themselves) but then it smoothed way out as the rotor spun up. I still can't fly the thing as well as the BCX, but at least I could somewhat control it. I think I need a bigger space to get it trimmed out, though, as I couldn't get a good feel for which way(s) it wanted to go. I may even be getting the "toilet bowl" effect that some coaxials get (dunno if FPs are also prone to this?) or maybe it's just turbulence in the room, since it doesn't seem consistent. Part of my earlier order from bphobbies (still haven't heard from them :( ) includes the delrin head stiffener. Those come with longer screws and some nuts for the other side, right? Or do I have to go to the LHS for some once I figure out how long they have to be? I also ordered some small o-rings to use for my blades. They were really expensive, but came with a free Futaba 7CHP Tx in frequency/channel to match my HBFP and a crystal for my BCX. ;) BTW - Damn you mrmuffinmanvw for this: :D:D Quote: Originally Posted by mrmuffinmanvw L

Thanks again for all the help, everybody. Now, if only one of you lived around here to teach me how to fly this silly thing ;) At least, with the vibration removed, I avoided any "prangs" just now. As of yesterday, I would have had at least 5 of them in the same period of time. Hi ho, hi ho, it's off to Radd I go...

#3331 jsy nobby Dec 13, 2006 11:53 PM

2 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

Sorry... I forgot to tell you how I got over the stiction hurdle...with my dremel I chamfered off the sharp edges of the little squares I'd ground and smoothed them off some more with some 1200 abrasive paper to make the ends of the steel as semicircular as I could....A drop of oil on the contact points helped even more. I did actually consider using a darning needle for this invention but gave in to the notion that not only would it be fiddly to make,it would be quite fragile to use too...I felt a solid piece would be more durable....Shame they dont make bearings this small....doh crap...just had another idea...just needs 4 small bearings attached to two 'X' frames on a solid base and snug fitting rods to go into the holes in the balls....I'll let you know how that one progresses!!!! The wine glass idea isn't a bad one...just one thing....you have two opposing curves and two straight lines in your equation....I thought I'd do you a diagram 'cos there is no way I could even half try and put it into words!! -Andy

#3332 jsy nobby Dec 13, 2006 11:58 PM

Anybody know if you can buy shares in Esky? I think the market for Honeybees is erm...sorry...about to take off.... :D

#3333 kryptoniteRxn Dec 14, 2006 12:32 AM

2 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

You did spend alot of time to help us, You have excellent dremeling skillz too. but wouldn't this be simpler? The only things you need are VHS tapes, or stacks of CD, anything that have same heights. Insert a rod, tooth pick, or even your paddle rod thru the ring-like linkages and voila, you have a poor-man's balancer. This is effective since there were two rotating axis for maximum movement: top AND bottom of the rings. :D

#3334 black_box Dec 14, 2006 12:37 AM what are those white things? :p

#3335 kryptoniteRxn Dec 14, 2006 12:39 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box l leave me alone, barney is my friend! :rolleyes: JK, they're my niece's control devices :D

#3336 sedohr Dec 14, 2006 12:42 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn l

Did Barney teach you this? edit: oops..... too late on the slam! Randy

#3337 jsy nobby Dec 14, 2006 01:11 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn L

Sometimes the simplest way around something is best and I totally see your point...But what if your ball & link are a little too tight? I always set the rotors before flying with the ring links disconnected for that very reason....the friction involved,as tiny an amount as it maybe,might just be enough to upset the equilibrium so to speak. If you look back a post or two,I've tried to explain how I cut down the stiction between the contact surfaces as efficiently as I could for very little money.... :D :D :D :rolleyes: -Andy

#3338 Gino CP Dec 14, 2006 01:18 AM

I agree with Kryptonite. To balance the blades on my CP2 I insert a bolt trhough both blades and balance them on a rod suspended by my table. Lay it flat on the rod and watch where one falls. It works well. My head is very smooth ever since.

#3339 jsy nobby Dec 14, 2006 01:20 AM

I sooo wish I wasn't an engineer sometimes....

#3340 kryptoniteRxn Dec 14, 2006 01:29 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby l yeah, i thought of that too, but the set up has two axis for the heavy blade to cause a movement: top of ring and bottom. Plus, if your ball-link or ring-like link are tight, you shouldn't be using them anyway. It's cool though, i see your intention with your set up. Thnx

#3341 Gino CP Dec 14, 2006 01:31 AM

Yes sometimes engineers just think too big and miss the simplest solutions. I remember a poster having a problem with his canopy mounts coming loose. His engineer dad was drafting an elaborate plan of magnetic mounts and stuff. In the end we told him to glue the rod with CA. He did and it solved the problem. Then there was this reverse servo prob on my heli. I was told to open up servos and reverse connections on the pot and motors. Well, I just moved the front servo to the left side, swapped servo connections for the rear servos, flipped the Aileron reverse switch and I was flying. Himbling experiences but inspiring.

#3342 kryptoniteRxn Dec 14, 2006 01:33 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L lol, youre an engineer, im a mini-economist (well in 6 months). You aim for perfection, i aim for marginal cost but w/o sacraficing quality.

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP l lol

#3343 kryptoniteRxn Dec 14, 2006 01:34 AM

...

#3344 Gino CP Dec 14, 2006 01:40 AM

I'm an economist too. So when I anticipate minimal returns for an ever increasing amount of input, I don't venture into it hehe.

#3345 jsy nobby Dec 14, 2006 01:43 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn l hehehe....you gets what you pays for....

#3346 corwyn Dec 14, 2006 01:45 AM

So a chemist, an engineer, and an economist are stuck on an otherwise deserted island, and all they have are cans of food, but no tools to open them. The chemist thinks about it for a bit, builds a fire, and heats a can in the fire. The heat causes a buildup of pressure, and the can bursts. It's messy, but he enjoys his meal, which also happens to be hot. The engineer thinks about the problem for a bit, then builds a fancy catapult system to fling the can against a rock until it bursts. Not quite as messy, and not hot, but he still gets to eat. The economist sits down to start thinking about the problem. "First, assume we have a can opener..." :D

#3347 DoomsDay Dec 14, 2006 01:46 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by DoomsDay L

Oh no...... Just received an email from xheli stating that they were out of stock on the one my order had went through on. bummer. I'm not to happy about them taking 2 1/2 days to tell me they were out of stock though. That is NOT good customer service.

#3348 kryptoniteRxn Dec 14, 2006 02:02 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn l

LMAO, that IS true, we assume lots of things. One of which i have trouble accepting is "Assume that everyone/consumer is selfish.....then this model is valid." But then again, economists run your money and life in ways you can't even imagine. We are monetarily wicked! Dont mess with us, we'll persuade BUSH to increase tax. back to topic, i like my HBFP

#3349 jsy nobby Dec 14, 2006 02:04 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

LMFAO.... :D :D :D " assumption being the mother of all F :censored: ups" LOL

#3350 kryptoniteRxn Dec 14, 2006 02:06 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by DoomsDay L try this site: http://www.trendtimes.com/rchelicopters.html, they have FREE SHIPPING on some items

#3351 sedohr Dec 14, 2006 02:38 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn l

They l have free shipping...... their HB is ONLY $249.99.. :eek: course thats a whopping $350 off their regular price of $599.99.....

#3352 kryptoniteRxn Dec 14, 2006 02:41 AM which HB are you lookin at? the HBFP is only $90 or so

#3353 sedohr Dec 14, 2006 02:43 AM

1 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn l weird...... here's the page i'm on: http://www.trendtimes.com/4-channel...elicopters.html you can get the $35 PiccoZ for $99.99

#3354 kryptoniteRxn Dec 14, 2006 03:01 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by sedohr l

S:censored: i thought it was 2 for $99. Anyway, you can also try raidentech, they have two Piccoz for like $60 somthing for TWO. and $89 for HBFII. i personally think it's a typo, the two sites are similar in set up, maybe owned by one onwer.

#3355 DoomsDay Dec 14, 2006 03:06 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn L

I think them and xheli are the same company. Both places show the HB4 as out of stock.

#3356 corwyn Dec 14, 2006 03:06 AM

Yikes... HB Mini RC Helicopter Comes Ready To Fly Free Shipping WorldWide Reg Price $599.99 Your Price $249.99 You Save: $350.00 (58.33%) Item# 05-111 They claim that it's a PCM transmitter, too. :confused: * PCM Transmitter included, Mode 1 or Mode 2 Left Hand Throttle

#3357 DoomsDay Dec 14, 2006 03:15 AM

Well, If i can't find another honeybee 4 at a decent price, is there any other 4 channel birds that anyone would recommend?

#3358 black_box Dec 14, 2006 03:43 AM here's an FP barebones that appears to be in stock, odd they don't have the RTF listed --edit- RTF is listed below: --edit2- not sure if this vendor is reputable. I've never ordered from them, just found the link from a search. Their entries at http://search.bbb.org/ don't look very promising. (search for helihobby, note the addresses of the 3 companies that come up and those here: http://www.helihobby.com/html/contact.html ) http://www.helihobby.com/html/esky_micro_heli.html Here's the FP Mk3 at $178 (uses LiPo's instead of NiMH, everything else the same) http://www.hobby-lobby.com/honeybee3.htm

#3359 sedohr Dec 14, 2006 04:04 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box l here it is: http://helihobby.com/html/humble_bee_rc_heli.html GREAT find on the BB kit! Randy

#3360 Almaz Dec 14, 2006 04:14 AM

Parts for sale

Hello Guys! I have some brand new parts for sale for Honey Bee FP 2 4in1 Esky IK2-0702 Gyro, Ecs, Mixer and Receiver $45 brand new 2 batteries brand new 8.4V 650mAh Ni-MH = make me an offer 2 Esky chargers brand new for Ni-MH batteries EK1-0052 = make me an offer Brand New Esky 4ch Transmitter EskySZ05 If you have any questions just PM me

#3361 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 14, 2006 04:40 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by sedohr l Thats the old style honey bee it is NOT a fp2 almost every part is different it is also shorter and suffers from the head vibrations from hell in the worst way. Some body must be knocking off the old honey bee and calling it the humble bee. Just a word of warning.

#3362 awalk Dec 14, 2006 05:35 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

I am using the 4 channel tranmitter that came with the xheli. I put in AA rechargables and they drained down with the first heli batteray. After that i am 15 packs in and still just down 1 bar on the transmitter LED AA battery indicator. My transmitter is not using batteries to speak of. Is anybody else filling the landfill with AA batteries?

#3363 Gino CP Dec 14, 2006 05:37 AM

I use Sanyo Eneloops. They keep their charge in storage just like alkalines. But they are rechargable nimhs.

#3364 TooTall Dec 14, 2006 05:49 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

Here's your sign...you need to be a flippin pilot , not an engineer ...knowing how to drive a dam train doesn't help with throttle/ collective stick ...hehehaha ...wow after a few hours at work and I had to catch up 3 pages on this thread ....a few creative ideas on balancing ..just make sure what ever you use is level to the world ...good luck and good flying gentlemen..Tom

#3365 kryptoniteRxn Dec 14, 2006 07:16 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by awalk l serious! my stock Tx sucks battery juice like a fat kid on chicken legs. I think i have to buy these 2650mAh NiMH Duracell @ $9.95 for 4. Now, originally, it suggests that we used 1.5V, these NiMH are only 1.2V. Any electronic engineer knows if this voltage mismatch has any power-consumption effect? Maybe i should just get a crystal for my JR radio, will it work? ideas?

#3366 PeterVRC Dec 14, 2006 07:35 AM

I use Radio Shack 2200 mAh AA NiMh batteries and they last AGES before needing recharging. I think 1.5v dry cells drop voltage under load anyway, that is why you can use 'lower' 1.2v NiMh or Nicad just fine in the same applications anyway.

#3367 mem Dec 14, 2006 08:48 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn l JR uses positive shift and the receiver in the 4-in-1 is negative so they wont work together. As PeterVRC says, you can use rechargeable nickel cells. Note that some of the higher capacity NiMH AA cells are slightly fatter then a standard alkaline cell and it can be a tight squeeze getting them in and out but the voltage is not a problem.

#3368 Almaz Dec 14, 2006 12:04 PM

Another stupid question. How do you remove the rotor blade mount? I just want to balance the blades. My hb fp keeps vibrating. After I removed the rotor blades northing seems to be vibrating. I removed the links and 2 screws from 2 bearings but how do I remove the mount? Does it just snap out?

#3369 jgoodwin Dec 14, 2006 12:19 PM

Nose-in!

I have to catch up with what I have missed in this forum. But I wanted to update people and maybe give some the new pilots some motivation. You know how people that have been flying a while say "one day it just clicks"? Well, it does. I was 'flying' in the living room last night and turned to the left and was flying left side in. Been doing pretty good with these. Then I went with something I had been thinking about for a few day, I kept going. I did a slow piro all the way around! The first few turned into partial funnels in the front room! But it was very cool. I did a few more of those (and bounced off of the fire place a few times) and then stopped for a second or two nose in! I just kind of kept controlling it, but the man thing that helped was remebering to push the way it is moving when nose-in. A lot like when a regular R/C plane or car is coming at you, except you also have to remember which way to push if it moves forward or back. If your helicopter is balanced well and you have enough room the front to back control should be secondary while doing a slow piro. It was awesome being in control with the nose in. I just wonder if I can do it again today! After I did this I read in another forum about someone else doing slow piros to learn nose in. I have also learned that fear is the only thing holding me back sometimes. Jay PS Another motivator for me may have been ording my self (well my wife said I could) a T-Rex 450s and a Sanwa/Airtronics RD8000 set. I do not think I have looked forward to Christmas this much in a long time!

#3370 Gino CP Dec 14, 2006 12:36 PM

Learn nose in from the ground and develop into a hover. You will learn properly and quicker. Plus getting to land and take off nose in is so cool.

#3371 mem Dec 14, 2006 12:56 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP L I eased into nose in the way Jay did and it worked for me. I did try putting my training gear back on and taking off nose in but found it much more natural easing in from a piro well out of ground affect. As Jay says, one of the biggest obstacles to learning is the fear of doing something new, so what works for one may not be best for everyone. For me the key to progressing is maintaining the discipline to fly bold but under control. Oh, and avoiding doing too much visible damage to the furniture ;) .

#3372 bosley Dec 14, 2006 01:55 PM

FP2 barebones kit??? http://www.helihobby.com/html/esky_micro_heli.html Can anyone verify if the barebones kit from helihobby is the fp2 or is it the original fp that mrmuffinmanvw refered to http://helihobby.com/html/humble_bee_rc_heli.html "Thats the old style honey bee it is NOT a fp2 almost every part is different it is also shorter and suffers from the head vibrations from hell in the worst way. Some body must be knocking off the old honey bee and calling it the humble bee. Just a word of warning." (copied from earlier post) I took two weeks to get through this thread and about 2 days into it I was ready to punch the add to cart button but bohobbies was out of stock. I could be patient and wait for them to come back in stock but I am anxious to get going. Also the E-Sky 3-1 units are on closeout right now for $26 bucks at bohobbies incase anyone didn't know. Thoughts on a barebones available ASAP????

#3373 Wren1702 Dec 14, 2006 02:28 PM

Run far far away from that Helihobby deal...... You guys see the brushless combo "deal". $459.99!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

#3374 JustPlaneChris Dec 14, 2006 03:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bosley l Bosley, that is the FP2. However, I recommend you search all the heli forums for 'helihobby' and see what kind of reputation they have here. Personally, I would not order from them. -Chris

#3375 bosley Dec 14, 2006 03:30 PM

Thanks Guys, I think I will just wait for BPHobbies to get them back in stock. I will likely order the 3-1 unit though before they take them off the overstock sale. I may order two of them at that price. It seems painfully obvious that a guy can't have just one heli!!! I have some other projects I should finish up before I get too involved in this madness anyway!! Thanks again. Bosley

#3376 JustPlaneChris Dec 14, 2006 03:33 PM

From the picture, it does appear to be the FP2. I just don't trust that vendor based on all the terrible feedback in the forum (and with the Better Business Bureau!). -Chris

#3377 bosley Dec 14, 2006 03:41 PM

Thanks chris your post didn't update on my browser until after I posted again. so I will avoid them and wait it out. Got to tie up some loose ends on other stuff anyway. Thanks again Bosley

#3378 hallstudio Dec 14, 2006 03:56 PM i just ordered 1 using paypal lets hope for the best.

#3379 black_box Dec 14, 2006 04:23 PM after a search of the better business bureau, I'd suggest using caution when ordering from helihobby. A search for Helihobby yields 3 results with corresponding addresses listed on http://www.helihobby.com/html/contact.html. All 3 entries had scores of "F", although i'm not sure if the sample size is sufficient. Just something to check out if you want to order from them. Please note I haven't ordered from them before.

#3380 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 14, 2006 04:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L Chris I was talking about the other link for the Humble Bee that was posted it is the same heli I have here the old school honey bee fp or I just looked at the box there isn't any part # just says Honey bee I assume it would be honey bee fp1. But there was one even before this one with wooden blades never saw one in real life only in pictures. I guess they came a long way in a few years.

#3381 corwyn Dec 14, 2006 06:44 PM

What, it's been over 2 hours since anybody posted to this thread...how am I going to keep myself amused (and still at my desk) until I can stop pretending to work? :D Such a beautiful day outside today, but too windy for me and my dubious helicopter skills. EDIT: Oh yeah, I can go back to page 50-something and continue my back-reading of this thread....

#3382 DoomsDay Dec 14, 2006 07:11 PM well sadly I couldn't find a hb4 in stock that was under what I was willing to pay. I ended up getting a dragonfly 4 for now. Its just going to be a step in anyway till I get my heli legs back. I really dont ever have any plans for going 3d, I mainly plan on flying the smaller ones and building up a few scale models if possible. Of course Airwolf will be one of the ones I will want to own hehe.

#3383 mem Dec 14, 2006 07:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

Sounds like it’s a good time for you to look into a helicopter flight simulator ;)

#3384 corwyn Dec 14, 2006 07:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L

Hmm...good idea. I'm going to be the proud owner of a Futaba Tx soon, so the cord will probably be easier to find. I wonder if Flight Simulator X will be a good heli trainer...or maybe I'll look into one of the cheaper options (not about to spend $300 on a sim just yet)

#3385 Tweekster Dec 14, 2006 07:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

It was 'Bring your FP to work' day at my office :rolleyes: So I'll be flying the halls at lunch.

#3386 corwyn Dec 14, 2006 07:47 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Tweekster L

That's the dangerous part...I work from home. So I'm trying to be good and stay in the office while my HBFP and BCX sit downstairs in the living room. :(

#3387 mrmuffinmanvw Dec 14, 2006 08:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by DoomsDay l Sure we will start with the small ones but they get bigger and bigger and become more and more till you have to buy a hanger to store them all and have a place to fly them even on bad days. {NO this is not a addiction} at least that is what I will tell them at my next meeting of H.A. and the ten step method still can't keep me off the helis.

#3388 ritzheli Dec 14, 2006 08:12 PM

HBFP @ Work!

Quote: Originally Posted by Tweekster L

Hello Tweekster, I take my HBFP to work daily, my staff knows when they see that aluminum box, "He's flying in the cafeteria". :rolleyes: I try to fly everyday, to keep my skills sharp, I leave the AC/Heating system on (ceiling mounted air handler) to mimmick 'Mother Natures' winds! :eek: :) If you watched me fly, you can tell I enjoy 'dancing' with my heli as I correct for the artificial winds! :D My BeltCP is ready for its' maidan flight, cafeteria here I come! :eek: :) Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying

#3389 mem Dec 14, 2006 08:19 PM

Stephen, I also fly my HB FP and CP at work, in the conference room at the end of the day. I have spooled up my Belt- CP there but there’s just not enough room to do anything but a gentle hover.

#3390 gfdengine204 Dec 14, 2006 08:24 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L corwyn, I just got the ClearView flight sim ($30) and I like it so far. While I hear it isn't the same caliber as a $300 sim, it gets me hands acclimated to the controls. I even have it where I can fly the Blade CX and I now control it, versus it controlling me. :) Just my opinion, FWIW. In fact, this weekend looks like a slow weekend at work, so I am taking my laptop and doing some sim- training during slow periods.

#3391 corwyn Dec 14, 2006 08:26 PM

You know, I was just thinking about this blade balancer again... Why not use some piano wire instead of the metal piece from a wiper blade? Then you already have something round, and it's probably easier to bend accurately than using a coat hanger.

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

#3392 Tweekster Dec 14, 2006 08:36 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by ritzheli L

Hey Stephen, I joined the HBFP owners a couple of weeks ago when xHeli had them for $89, too good to pass up. This thing is a blast! Added the CP2 battery tray and heatsinks, used my BCX Lipo's, all for around $100. You just can't beat it! Now get that Belt-CP going and give us a flight report! It's just the same as the FP, only a little bigger...... right? ;)

#3393 Tweekster Dec 14, 2006 09:14 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

Corwyn, I removed the blades from the head, got a piece of all-thread rod to fit the holes, put the blades on, snugged a nut on each side, gave the blades a good pull to seat the blades evenly, made sure the leading edges were parallel, and balanced the blades across the open jaws of a vice. Mine runs much smoother now. Balanced the tail rotor across a 3-side Architectural scale, tail is much smoother also. I may be wrong, but the way I look at it is the FP headspeed is much slower, so static balance is probably a waste. And the head is so small, and unless it it is really formed badly, it probably will not effect you balance much at all. CP heli's have much more complicated heads with a larger dimension between blade grip bolts, but you don't see too many people balancing the whole thing, only the blades. My 2 cents.

#3394 corwyn Dec 14, 2006 09:30 PM

Argh..I just killed a servo. I took the FP outside for a bit to see if I couldn't trim her out a bit better with more space and fewer obstacles, and the wind had died down a bit. I ended up losing control and crashing, and now one of my servos is unresponsive. I switched connectors with the other one to make sure it's not a fried 4-in-1 (the mini fuses should arrive tomorrow). Everthing else works, just that one servo is mostly unresponsive. If it does respond, it just barely twitches. :( EDIT: Yeah, I found the broken solder connection. Unfortunately, my soldering skills aren't good enough to fix something this small, so I guess that I'll be making another contribution to eSky stock.

#3395 ritzheli Dec 14, 2006 09:33 PM

HBFP @ Work

4 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by mem L

Hello mem, This is my best kept secret on how I aquire my flying time, been at it for almost 1 1/2 years :rolleyes: . My staff all think I'm nuts, but I'm grinnin' like that 'little boy' everytime I fly, helps to reduce work stress(ya right, work stress, another reason to get another heli :p ) I'll take my BeltCP learning very slow, it's too pretty to see it crash! I'll just stick to hovers and get everything tweeked out, ready for the great outside, in a few months.(It's too d :censored: m cold outside and the fingers work slowly when the pilot is uncomfortable) I have included some photos of my lastest BL HBFP and how I take my favorite bird to work. Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying

#3396 sedohr Dec 14, 2006 09:34 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn l that's what i heard about a transmitter too. something about christmans and bills, etc. :D Randy

#3397 corwyn Dec 14, 2006 09:43 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sedohr l

Shhhhhh!

#3398 mem Dec 14, 2006 10:15 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by ritzheli L

Stephen, Your FP is looking very nice. I used the same motor on my barebones FP, (although that FP has now had the operation and become a CP). It worked well on the FP with a 12T pinion on 2S, but runs a little hot on 3S in the CP even with a 9T pinion. I must remember to order a heat sink next time I need parts. I try to fly most days at the office after work ( I used to swim to reduce stress but there is no pool near my office now and helicopters are much more fun). I do like your case, I bring mine to work in a very unexecutive Black and Decker toolbox. If you are flying your Belt-CP indoors I hope the room is large, it moves around astonishingly quick compared to the FP. There is a picture of my Belt-CP here Happy Flying Michael

#3399 jsy nobby Dec 14, 2006 10:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

I guess you could use pretty much anything that bends and holds it's shape....I used the metal strip 'cos I had it lying around....as it's flat it won't rock about on the stand so much, so maybe it's advantageous anyway....To boot we've nowhere over here that sells pianoes let alone the wire!!!! :D -Andy.

#3400 7AC Dec 14, 2006 10:28 PM

I finally was able to move outside today! After 10 weeks of living room practice I took the FP outside and was able to fly it in a circle! Landings were frequently traumatic but I didn't break anything (other than having to pop the blades back on). Makes you hungry for more but the wind wouldn't cooperate.

#3401 ritzheli Dec 14, 2006 10:42 PM

Bl Hbfp

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L

Hello Michael, Thank-you for the compliment :) , the BL set-up was pretty simple. I found out by default that you need to program the Pixie before inserting into the gyro! All of this stuff I had sitting around and my 'barebones' told me to "just install everything, I want to fly! :D After all was installed and I had checked all balances of rotors, heli frame, etc., I took off and went into the hover. Everything was spot on, I just needed to adjust the Revo mixer after that. The lightness of this heli is just great, I used a 11 tooth pinion on 2S cells and neither the motor or the battery become hardly warm, I just love it! My first scratch-build heli worked great, I couldn't believe it, it hovers at about 1/3 throttle. This heli should 'dance' really good outside. BTW whatever it takes to get that bird to work safely was what I was looking for, with the possibilty of taking it with me to Florida in the spring. The best part is when you open that box and take out your bird, unfold the rotors, hook-up the battery, ck for onlookers, fly right into that hover, gets them everytime. I now train anyone who wants to try to fly with my "box stock version". Your BeltCP is lookin' really good ;) , its neat to see how everyone mounts all there electronics, and all the possible choices to do such. Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying

#3402 ritzheli Dec 14, 2006 10:49 PM

Fellow Hoosier

Hello 7AC, Where do you live? I live in Indpls., maybe we could hook-up and do some flyin' and talkin'. :) ;) You know winter can be awful here, I just keep telling myself, 2 1/2 more months of this freekin' cold weather. :( PM me if you ever want to visit. Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying

#3403 Tweekster Dec 14, 2006 11:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by ritzheli L

Stephen, I gotta get me one of those! Have heli, will travel. Where did you get the BL motor, mount ring and pinion? I thought about going BL on mine, but on other the other hand, it works so well now, why mess with it? A voice in the back of my head is saying, "Modify, Modify!"...... decisions, decisions

#3404 crazhorse Dec 15, 2006 12:43 AM

I demolished my HB FP's head last week, it and the wall had a little get together...... the M24 blades arent very forgiving. I ordered a exceed rc falcon 40 from xheli, got it today. Its got some pretty nice features as in the tailboom has a screw on each end so it can be easily replace and the head is a bit different from the hummingbird derivatives, looks to have bearings or brass washers on the flybar cradle. Not sure about the electronics in it..... on the charger for the nimhs it has a Walkera logo :eek: Oh well I plan on using lipos in it anyways and I have a pha01 or a eflite 4 in 1 I can replace them with if it freaks out on me.

#3405 jsy nobby Dec 15, 2006 12:48 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Tweekster L

Brushless does have it's advantages...Don't get me wrong,my stocker flies just great as it is,but my brushless heli is even better....it seems to have lots more power over the whole throttle range for a lot longer and it's quite a bit quieter than the stock brushed motor...up to you at the end of the day....to mod or not to mod....that is the question... -Andy.

#3406 corwyn Dec 15, 2006 12:57 AM

With the FP out of commission until next week (just ordered a new servo from Slickzero, since they have $0.95 shipping and it only takes a couple days to get here from Florida) and having exhausted the LiPos in my BCX, I just took the FP apart to do a water break-in of the main motor. The tail motor turned out to be too much of a pain (I really need a small tabletop vise, or grow a third hand, to work on such small stuff with a soldering iron), so that'll have to wait until later. I also advanced the timing on the main motor, and now I can see that I'm going to have to reset the gyro trim when I get her all back together, because she spins quite a bit now. The water break-in and the timing advance definitely gave the main rotor more power. BTW - how do I get the tail motor wires to slide inside the boom? A little more slack would have helped in the soldering process... Ah well...don't feel like babysitting LiPos on the charger now, so I just fired up the Xbox360 for the first time in almost a week. I find myself gingerly moving the control sticks on the Xbox controller now. :rolleyes: Time to hunt some radical Mexican terrorists...

#3407 black_box Dec 15, 2006 01:14 AM mine arrived today. everything seemed packed well enough, but the canopy was pushed down onto the 4-in- 1, putting a tiny dent on one side and a roughly 1/2" by 1/4" hole on the other side. The 4-in-1 doesn't look like its mounted perfectly straight with the tail boom, is that a problem? that may have been why it cracked the canopy in the case.

#3408 garylee33 Dec 15, 2006 01:27 AM

Well, I just got back from the flying field and all I have to say is. YOU GUYS ARE RIGHT! :o Every time I try to get my little FP to turn into a big guy heli, it never seems to work out. I really wanted the Super Skids to work so I tried a 3s battery and everything just kept adding up to more and more weight. :( And to tell you the truth, I didn’t like the way the weighted down FP flew. Just kind of a Dog! So, I needed a new part for something or other and while I was making an order at BP Hobbies I went ahead and just added a barebones FP to the list. (Can’t go wrong for 40 bucks!) ;) Last night after being frustrated with how the weighted down FP was flying, I transferred over the servos and 4in1 to the new barebones, stock FP. Today of course I had to take it along to the flying field. WOW! :D I totally “Re- Discovered” why I love that thing so much in the first place. It’s really is a dream to fly when it’s all light in it’s stock form. So let it be said, I’m never going to mess with it again. :rolleyes: It’s going to sit as a stock FP in my fleet and I’m never going back to trying to bling it again. It’s just perfect the way it is! Now, where’s my T-REX. That’s another project all together.. ;) And they say Crack is addictive! :p Gotta love it. Gary

#3409 sedohr Dec 15, 2006 02:08 AM

Hey Corwyn...... you and I are in the same boat - comin over from a BCX. I got pretty good with the BCX, able to do all 4 side-in hovers for an entire pack and FF/figure-8's, etc. It has helped tremendously with the FP - no problem popping up into a hover, knowing I can control it.....BUT, I feel like I've taken some HUGE steps backwards from the BCX. One thing I did was remove the flybar weights and move the servo links in 2 holes on the servos...... re- aligned the swash and good to go. Much smoother response now...... Randy Ohio

#3410 mwood4494 Dec 15, 2006 02:20 AM

Better Transmitter???

Ok guys.... With all of your great advice and instruction in this thread, I've finally got it!!! (controlled hover that is) I bought 2 RTF HB FP's: 1 from xheli and 1 from bphobbies The only other nonstock items I purchased were (2) eSKY 7.4V 2S lipos and battery hangers (from the CP version) and the lipo charger. Followed the heli/blade balance and tracking advise and both birds rise straight up at 1/2 throttle (very little rotate to correct for) and very stable hover. My question is this....althought both heli's hover extremely well, I can't help but feel like the corrections made on the stock 4 channel transmitters are sluggish or less responsive than I'd like? :confused: Would a new (different model) transmitter and receiver correct this "delayed or slow" response I'm experiencing??? Is this normal with the HB FP?? All of your advice has been dead on so far!!!Looking forward to your response(s)

#3411 corwyn Dec 15, 2006 02:35 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by sedohr L

I'm getting pretty good (in my estimation) with the BCX, too. Tail-in hover is no problem, and I can spot- land 75% of the time on a circle not much bigger than the BCX's skids. Hovering side-in is ok if I can keep my concentration, and nose-in pretty much requires everything I have to keep a hover within an 18" circle. I can get pretty close to landing inside a 12" box nose-in like 90% of the time. But with the FP...I feel like I'm starting all over again, even worse than when I first started with the BCX. The BCX was comfortable from the start, but I feel like I'm always fighting with the FP. First the vibration, then just trying to keep it steady. I balanced the flybar weights the other night (one was about 3 or 4mm in from the other), and then moved them in another 3cm today. Maybe I should try moving them all the way in (or removing them) to see if that works better. Moving the servo links 2 holes in, huh? That way there's less motion in the swashplate (and thus my inputs have less effect, right?)... That would probably help a lot, since I think I'm overcorrecting. One thing I've noticed that's different between the two (and it may just be my inexperience with the FP) is that when I let the right stick go back to neutral with the BCX, it tended to settle and mostly go back into something resembling a hover. But when I do the same thing with the FP, it continues in the same direction for a while, so then I have to try and stick in the opposite direction to get it to stop. That see-saws back and forth for a while until I start swinging the FP back and forth farther and farther (ever see the footage of the Tacoma Narrows Bridge?) until I slam into something. I had to (hopefully temporarily) abandon Radd's lessons because I couldn't keep it in a 12" box in GE for more than a second or two. Based on my (brief) time outside before destroying my aileron servo, I think I'm trimmed too far to the left, but I'm not sure since pushing the stick to the right briefly would correct the problem and then have the heli drifting to the right. Push back a little to the left, then it'd be a fast drift to the left, adding to a tail that wants to go left (gyro out of trim a little bit?), but I'm so focused on trying to bring the strafe in control that I forget my left hand, so now I'm spinning to the right a little and climbing...and then panic sets in and my "when in doubt, chop throttle" mindset from the coaxial kicks in, bringing everything crashing back to Earth. Unfortunately, that destroyed one of my servos, so now I'm going to lose a few days' worth of practice with the FP. Well, at least I can feel better (and get better) flying the BCX. Some sim time would probably do me some good, but it'll probably take a few days to get a cable delivered (and I'm feeling impatient right now). At least I'm still ahead of my buddy Randy (hmmm...same name as you) who got his BCX2 about 2 weeks after I got my BCX. He doesn't practice as much as I do, but his bird is easier to fly, I think. Maybe I need to find a local helicopter club and find some help figuring out what I'm doing wrong. Unless one of you gents wants to visit Massachusetts :D Just beware Big Wet Nose (with Tail of Death)...that's Sophie, my overly-affectionate chocolate labrador retriever. :D She runs if you spin up the rotor blades, though. She made the mistake of sniffing the blades of my BCX while they were spinning :eek: , so now she tends to leave the area when I start flying. With the FP, that's probably a really good idea. :D

#3412 mem Dec 15, 2006 02:51 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mwood4494 L Congrats on the successful hover. The easiest thing to do is move the flybar weights toward the center or remove them completely. If you want even more response you can use the longer arms on the upper swash plate. Temporarily disconnect the two links connecting the upper swash plate to the flybar and rotate the upper swash by 90 degrees. Reconnect the links to the longer arms and you will get more collective response. I found switching to a higher quality transmitter did improve the 'feel' but try the free mods first

#3413 mwood4494 Dec 15, 2006 03:03 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L

Mem, What increments should I move the flybar weights in to start? All the way or a little at a time? Will completely removing them be a drastic change?

#3414 gfdengine204 Dec 15, 2006 03:24 AM

OK Twice I mention the ClearView sim with no response. Does that mean it sucks? :p (I hope not; I would much rather devote my monetary resources to aircraft and transmitters)

#3415 ham2405 Dec 15, 2006 03:26 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

They probably got glued to the inside of the boom when the motor housing was glued on. My RTF unit has that problem - can't move the wires, but the ARF I ordered for parts did NOT have that problem. Since there is not a straight pull path available, I'm not sure how we could get the wires freed :mad: . David

#3416 terencechan Dec 15, 2006 03:35 AM

Bell-Hiller mechanics for the FP2

3 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by mwood4494 L

As ChrisLikePlane has mentioned, it is a double-edged sword. Remove the weights and you get more 'real- time' response. However, since the heli responds so much quickier now, if you still feed in the same amount of input as before, each input becomes an 'over-correction' of the previous. Less room for mistakes. Another mod with a low cost is the Fixed Pitch Bell-Hiller Rotor Head below: It gives you snappier response via Bell-Hiller mixing :D , see diagram which explains how the Bell-Hiller works:

#3417 corwyn Dec 15, 2006 03:49 AM

Could you please give more information on how to retrofit this to a Honeybee FP?

#3418 mem Dec 15, 2006 03:51 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mwood4494 L I suggest you try them around half way in; make sure that the spacing is the same on both sides so the flybar is balanced. If that is still not responsive enough, try the them all the way in. For even more response try removing them completely. I flew a little while with the weights in the stock position but found it way to sluggish so I was seriously over- controlling. After a few battery packs sliding around on the training gear I just removed the weights completely and the cyclic felt like It was actually responding to my commands

Quote: Originally Posted by terencechan L

Terence, I guess it’s a personal thing but I did find having less weight on the flybar made me over-correct less. I like the new handle you have given Chris :)

#3419 mwood4494 Dec 15, 2006 03:52 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by terencechan L

Interesting....I'll try mem's suggestion first and if I don't get desired result..I'll entertain this :)

#3420 Tweekster Dec 15, 2006 03:58 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

Andy, I have a Belt-CP with brushless, and I like how smooth and torquey it is, just wondered how much of an improvement it would be for the FP. Sounds like it might be worth it. Which motor and pinion are you running? 2S or 3S? Stock 4n1 or separates?

#3421 terencechan Dec 15, 2006 04:05 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L

Opps, i am really bad with names, it's "JustPlaneChris" and not "ChrisLikePlane", no offence Chris, sorry for calling you names. :)

#3422 corwyn Dec 15, 2006 04:10 AM

Actually, since Chris is here in the helicopter forums, shouldn't he be NotJustPlaneChris? Or JustPlaneAndHelicopterChris? :D

#3423 mem Dec 15, 2006 04:15 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Tweekster L

FWIW, I found that my brushless FP (albeit in 2S) did not really make a big difference. What did actually transform a HB was adding a CP head with 3S, but its still nowhere near as smooth or torquey as a Belt-CP. Anyway, I find that the sedate personality of the FP is what makes it such fun.

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L I think Terence was on the right track, something like: ChrisLikesPlanesAndHelicopters :)

#3424 terencechan Dec 15, 2006 04:16 AM

More pics on Bell Hiller FP

7 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L sure mate, here's more pics & the list of 'ingredients' you need :) : I'm not gonna steal credit, a big thanks to KOSMIC who provide the info. 1 x Rotor Head. 4 x servo link 2 x mini servo horn (from an align plane kit) 2 x little screw 2 x 1mm rubber tubing for the flybar 2 x little plastic washer 1-First of all. you need to cut the balls on the rotor head. 2- drill a hole on the rotor head where the ball was. 3- Fix the screw and the servo horn on the hole you just made. 4- You need 2 short (cutdown) servo link and 2 full size. I removed 5mm of plastic and 11mm of the metal rod on my cutdown link. 5- Put all the servo link on the servo horn on the head. The longer link must be fixed on the swashplate and the shorter one on the flybar. 6- To hold the link on the fly bar, put the plastic washer and a piece of rubber tubing.

#3425 crxef9 Dec 15, 2006 04:21 AM well i just took them all the way off on the weights and still feel its a bit slow compared to my cp2. i guess i got too used to how my cp2 handle lol , how much responsiveness do u get terrence?

#3426 corwyn Dec 15, 2006 04:25 AM

That's pretty cool, Terence. As mwood4494 said, I'll try the simple mods first, then maybe I'll give the modified head a try. Looks like the only "permanent" modification is in the rotor head, and since the one I'm currently using has a repaired ball, anyway, it's not that big a deal. There's something that feels wrong about cutting something's balls off, though. :eek:

#3427 JustPlaneChris Dec 15, 2006 04:32 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L You guys are all nuts. :rolleyes: :p -Chris

#3428 corwyn Dec 15, 2006 04:40 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L

It took you long enough to figure that one out. :rolleyes: :p :D ;)

#3429 mem Dec 15, 2006 04:45 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 l

Try rotating the upper swash by 90 degrees as mentioned above. Its easy to do and reversible if you don’t like it.

#3430 sedohr Dec 15, 2006 05:39 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

This worked for me so I'll pass it on (got it off RCG somewhere).... I really got my eye-hand down quickly by hovering the blade just a few inches off the gound, keeping it in GE and then adding a l bit of yaw in 1 direction or the other - very slight... sllllllooowww rotation to start. Once you get it in the hover and the rotation, the left stick is pretty much left alone unless you've got to recover quickly. Then, I would try and hold my spot above the garage floor. The constant, slow rotation really kept me sharp and focused cause I had to follow the bird with my cyclic at all times, and I was getting practice on all 4 sides during 1 training session. By rotating slowly, it wasn't as if I was constantly chasing the bird but had time to think - that's a key. Anyway, when I started, i was doing some pretty big circles and such but at least I wasn't panicking and was able to stay airborne. in a short period of time, my 'circles' were getting smaller and smaller to where I could hold my spot pretty dang good AND not have to think about it...... it worked for me, i progressed quickly and didn't get so bored or allow my mind to wonder as when i was just doing constant 1 or side-ins on a pack. I'm using the same formulas on the FP2 too. Randy

#3431 sedohr Dec 15, 2006 05:51 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 L

I think CV is a decent starter sim, prolly FMS as well..... back in the 80's when I gave helis a try the first time - computer sims weren't too popular - some pretty nasty graphics back then. So, guys were hooking servos up to a square piece of glass or wood and trying to keep a marble 'balanced' on the surface...... point being, just about anything that helps train your eye-hand-mind coordination is good. a $300 piece of s/w, IMO, is not going to do it any better - at this point - than a $30 or free one... it may (does) look better but it makes no difference to the parts that gotta learn to work together initially... get good with the Clearview CX - or if you can, try and pick up a second hand CX here or off ebay - and then migrate to the CP (on the sim). you can also slow the sim down by using the Training Time Scale Setup under the Settings menu when starting out - it gives you more 'successes' ("look what i can do!") which i think is critical at this stage of the game...... Randy Ohio

#3432 mem Dec 15, 2006 06:36 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by sedohr L Randy, although low cost sims can be a useful learning aid, its not fair to say that premium sims are no better. I have used FMS for planes and as well as an ancient heli simulator called tru-flite, but having recently acquired the PhoenixRC simulator I am amazed at how much more realistic the flight physics is. I can ‘change’ things like pinions and motors and actually see the difference in flight characteristic on the simulated T-Rex 450 I fly. I paid (the equivalent of) $160 for this sim and it is definitely worth the money for me as a learning aid bacause the helicopter is not just moving in the direction it should, it is reacting almost exactly the way it should. I don’t wont to put people off FMS or CV, they are great value, but lets not stop people looking into the premium sims as well. btw, I did build one of those marble on glass servo things in the previous century :) , that’s as close as I got to flying a model helicopter back then, the good ones were just too expensive.

#3433 terencechan Dec 15, 2006 06:44 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by crxef9 l

I can't explain exactly in terms of responsiveness but it feels as if the heli is moving a lot faster especially during turns and bends. :) Since I did the mod on my cousin's FP2, I didn't remove the weights and shift the weights so I don't know what it's like to have Bell-Hiller and weightless combination. I might try the bell- hiller on my brushless FP2 with woodies to compare the difference. Terence

#3434 PeterVRC Dec 15, 2006 06:59 AM

Well that Bell-Hiller mod looks impressive! But what does it actually do of use?

#3435 Gino CP Dec 15, 2006 07:17 AM

Think of the paddles as forming a disc as it spins. The direction this disc tilts is the direction the heli will go. On an ordinary head, when you move cyclic controls, it takes a while for that disc to change orientation. This is because it relies on the changing paddle pitch to change orientation. There is lag. In a Bell-Hiller head, there is a direct link to change that disc orientation. So it tilts as you put stick inputs. This makes the heli more responsive. You turn on a dime, avert pending impacts, do quick changes in direction. The relationship of the lever arms in the bell-hiller head dictates how much direct inputs are put into the disc.

#3436 PeterVRC Dec 15, 2006 09:03 AM

Oh ok, thanks for that explanation. I always wondered why they use a swash plate to drive paddles to then tilt the rotor. eg why not go 'direct' as in this bell-hiller I figured it must be something to do with leverage, where tilting a paddle needs a low energy input and then uses the paddle 'lift' in the airflow as amplification for the rotor tilting result. That way the loading on the swash plate is minimal/low. That also means the servos, which directly drive the swash plate, are also under minimal loading ever. But if you have bell-hiller, then you will be loading the whole mechanic chain from servo to swash plate, a lot more. In return getting that 'direct' and thus immediate response. Why not just throw away the fly-bar and paddles totally? Though having them will at least mean that some level of loading (energy supply to the rotor head) is supplied by them and thus not by servo and mechanics. I am going to grab all the bits and do that mod and see what the result is! Though I guess I sort of like the slight delays as they are. But I will find out.

#3437 PeterVRC Dec 15, 2006 09:19 AM

Speaking of swash plates and fly-bars etc.... I was checking the motions and freedom (or lack of) of all the head movements. I found that when you give some medium to high swash plate angle the links to the fly-bar control plate bind in one direction (up/down). What happens is that ball joint on the control plate comes down on one side (up on the other) and because it gets right up against the 'drive bar' (what is that H bar that drives the links called?) it means the links cannot swing to the angle they need to so that they can obey the swash plate fully. [all very complex to explain - but do it on the heli and you will soon see what I mean] What happens is that the fly-bar can then not rock down to one side. Tilt it one way and it is totally free, but the other way it binds pretty well right after trying to get lower than horizontal. I know why it happens (geometry involved) but I guess it seems unimportant in the control anyway, because the direction you tilt down and get binding is not the direction the now rotated fly-bar will cause the paddles to want to head (up or down in air flow). So for that given swash plate angle it will only ever want to head with the fly-bar upwards on the side that would have been binding if it tried to go down. Useless information huh!!?? LOL Well, I thought it was a shortfall in the design of the mechanics. I would assume the bigger 'better designed' heli's (T-Rex etc) don't have that effect occuring at all. This all started when I was checking out all the head mechanics motions, and seeing how 'dodgy' a lot of the swash plate and linkage motions are. Which seemed must have an effect on how well the controls all work at extremes. Tilt the swash-plate to an extreme - or even half an extreme when in two directions at once - and see how it binds and causes quite a lot of friction and even slows the motor down due to that notable extra load! These things have got to be giving some reasonably detrimental inputs into accurate control at any control inputs over about half a TX sticks motion! So I have been trying to work out ways to tidy them up.

#3438 Gino CP Dec 15, 2006 09:32 AM

The main rotors don't tilt on its axis. Each blade however changes pitch in accordance with the paddles' movement. If that imaginary flybar disc tilts forward, the blade passing the rear of the heli gets more pitch. The blade in front less pitch. As a result the whole heli tilts forward. The swashplate controls the paddles which in turn controls the main blades. If the imaginary disc mimmics the swashplate 100% instantly, you will have one squirelly heli. How the flybar behaves in accordance with swashplate inputs dictates a heli's behavior. In gentle flyers, this is not fully proportional.

#3439 PeterVRC Dec 15, 2006 09:50 AM

??? The Bell-Hiller mechanics bypass the fly-bar/paddles sytem....to a large degree. The amount they will supply 'direct' from the servo/swash-plate is dependent on the 'new' control arms lengths and thus leverages of how much comes direct and how much from the fly-bar (powered by the paddles). They allow direct swash-plate to rotor axis tilting, but also still derive an input (coming in the other side of the arm) from the fly-bar tilting its paddles too. Thus the paddles will give some energy assistance still (as per the non Hiller system gets ALL of its energy for rotor tilting from the paddles). I would expect the lever system would be set up to give whatever split of 'direct' versus 'paddle' drive you want in your system. 'Direct' giving instantaneous response but costing power from a servo and more mechanical loading, and 'paddle' giving 'free' energy that was derived from the paddles in the airflow but not instantaneous then. The above posted Bell-Hiller mod I would expect to give a 50-50 split of the two drive sources. Seeing the arms are equal length out each side. (though there are some severe link angles to add into the equations!) I guess that might make for a good response improvement, but not 'too much'. When I think about it.....I think the paddles are quite likely a necessity for good flight and control, because they don't just purely form a 'disc' based on the heli's mechanical system and inputs. I would expect they would be affected by numerous other things, such as FFF airflow over the whole area making the resultant paths they take to be a bit different than, for example, in a hover. And that this probably was worked out long ago to be the best way to "mix in" changes that would occur during different flight conditions and thus to give the best flying/handling characteristics for helicopters. A purely direct system (no paddles and run purely direct off the swash plate) would be just that...always purely just what the control inputs passed through. Mr Bell and Mr Hiller (??? lol) probably came along and said "Hmmm, total paddle control sucks!! Too laggy. But Direct drive is not so good in FFF. Hey!! Lets mix them in together!" And the Bell-Hiller system was born....

#3440 RC4ZEKE Dec 15, 2006 01:23 PM

1 Attachment(s) Finally got my Honey Bee flying again. :D Found out it was the tail motor that had gone bad. I stuck a new one (thank you bphobbies) in the tail and she was flying normal again. :) I sure was going through some serious I NEED MY HELI BACK withdrawls for awhile. :eek:

#3441 corwyn Dec 15, 2006 01:28 PM

Ah, this would explain why my BCX seems so much more responsive than my HBFP. The swashplate directly changes the pitch of the lower rotor, so there was no waiting for the rotor to catch up to the swash-induced movement of the flybar. Thanks for the explanation!

Quote: Originally Posted by Gino CP L

#3442 sedohr Dec 15, 2006 01:33 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L mem- No, I wasn't making a blanket statement that more expensive sim aren't any better than FMS/CV, etc. I said "at this point" for gfdengine204. He stated he was starting to be able to 'control' a Blade CX in CV so he's obviously just starting out. And my opinion is, when you are just starting, just about any sim is good and that there is no value, or there is no advantage in getting a higher priced one just yet...... sorry if i wasn't clear on that.... Randy ohio

#3443 Gino CP Dec 15, 2006 01:34 PM

You got it. Technically it pitches or rolls your lower blades' imaginary disc. Pitch doesn't change because that has fixed pitch. But you know what I mean.

#3444 corwyn Dec 15, 2006 01:42 PM

And after reading the rest of the Bell-Hiller discussion, this really does make sense. Removing the weights entirely from my BCX makes it completely unflyable (for me), I guess because there's no damping of the upper rotor. Too squirrely in that case. But on something like the FP, removing the weights lets the flybar respond faster to the swash movement, so the cumulative lag effect transferring swash movement to the rotor is reduced. Same end effect, but at different points along the "responsiveness scale." One dampens to make control easier, but the other dampens to the point of feeling slow/mushy (in comparison) Right? Now I really want that new servo NOW so I can try this stuff out. You've awakened the inner-engineer in me ;-) (I was computer science, so similar mindset, but not exactly the same as a "real" engineer ;) ) How helicopters manage to fly is starting to make sense. Next is to figure out how CCPM works. :D

#3445 Gino CP Dec 15, 2006 01:59 PM

Yup, the mass of the weights and their radius with respect to the axis affect their inertia or resistance to change their motion. As you have observed, you can use or remove weights to change flight characteristics.

#3446 gfdengine204 Dec 15, 2006 02:49 PM

Randy and mem - Thanks for your thoughts. Randy, you are correct, I am just starting out. I have my HB FP, still in its mini- hangar (read: box) and am getting myself very oriented in both hand/eye and heli orientation before I start wrecking blades :rolleyes: . Randy, since I have a HB FP, do you still recommend getting a CX as well? I was contemplating that or the Lama (for the contra-rotating blades vs. a tail rotor), but decided I wanted the HB first. Also, your recommending stepping up to the CP was exactly what I had in mind. My main goal is to limit damage to my real aircraft (while still realizing crashes are going to happen). I am a firm believer in crashing the sim as much as necessary to keep my real-time flying as crash-resistant as possible. mem, thanks for the input on the other sim; I think that is going to be an investment when I start getting proficient. The idea of swapping out different components and seeing the result on the sim is very appealing to me. Thanks again fellas!

#3447 sedohr Dec 15, 2006 03:25 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 L gf- there's a ton of opinions out there on this subject so ya gotta take what i say for what it's worth to you. i don't know your level of skill, motivation, and type of areas you can fly in around your home. soooooo...... all i can do is give you my side of it. here's a post i did in repsonse to some saying a coaxial was a waste of time. i'll let it speak for itself: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...69&postcount=14 helis are just a 'pain' to learn how to fly (i say that affectionately) - some take it as a challenge and 'enjoy' the frustrations along the way, some don't and l give up on a rewarding hobby because of the frustrations. i bagged my gasser back in the 80's cause it was just so frustrating and expensive to try and learn and i got frustrated and quit....the pain overrode any pleasure i was getting i have cv and i still use it for those days i can't fly.... but for me, there's nothing like flying the real thing vs. a computer screen - for now anyways - again, we're talking just trying to learn the basics.... and i still am. i was soooo stoked a couple months ago when i finally pushed the throttle stick fwd and bounced my cx into a hover! WOW! i can fly!! it was a success and it was a rush that motivated me like no sim could. and it helped to anchor my motivation to work through the frustrations...... for me, a sim wouldn't have accomplished that. heck, i learned a ton messin' around with a bladerunner for a year. nose/side-in is nose/side-in no matter you're controlling - your brain just needs time/practice to learn to react rather than 'think' about it and it doesn't much matter what you use. what does matter is you find the right training aid that keeps you juiced and motivated to fly - if a sim does that, great, if it takes the real thing - pick up a bladerunner or if you can afford it a cx till your skills get better.... or, keep tryin' to learn on the fp using radds or some other method. i can't answer for what juices you..... a little secret...... don't tell anyone..... i'm 48 and i'll be sittin in the family room with the wife and kids and all the sudden jump up and start sayin "chopper pilots, to your choppers!" and grab a bird and throttle up! i just gotta have a fix! (course some fam members think i need to be fixed). but i can't wait to get a bird in the air and test my skills..... there's a great group of guys in this forum that'll help you through just about anything you encounter but, you gotta find that 'thing' that sparks you to keep at the hours its gonna take you to learn how to hover successfully so that you can fly successfully...... randy ohio

#3448 mem Dec 15, 2006 03:30 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sedohr l Randy and 204, I am not disagreeing with your good advice to 204, simply pointing out that while its true that any sim is better then nothing, and to some it may not be worth spending big bucks on a sim early on, there is real value in more realistic emulation of the complex physics of helicopter flight (i.e. it is a little closer to handling like the real thing) and if one is going to spend hours on a simulator, it can be more fun if the graphics are fantastic as well. I have not used CV so I can’t say, but it may well be the best balance between being realistic and being low cost. I certainly don’t want to undermine your enthusiasm for it. My post was intended simply to share the value I derived when I upgraded to a state of the art $160 dollar sim. If value for money is the main criteria then CV sounds like a very good choice. But for those that have Christmas money burning a hole in their wallet, why not have a really close look at something like Phoenix if its on demo in your LHS.

#3449 sedohr Dec 15, 2006 03:55 PM mem...... gotcha..... there are sooooo many ways to approach learning this for sure. that's why i suggested 204 to evaluate what it will take for him to stay juiced to learn the basics - hover (all 4 sides), ff, figure 8's, etc. a decent sim is a great investment (i'm leaning towards phoenix myself) for me, flying the real thing (what ever form that is) is far more exciting and rewarding than a sim right now...... i have the basics down on the cx and now am ramping up on the fp.... after that it'll be a cp machine and that's when i plan on getting a better sim.... your view is well appreciated and well taken..... i didn't take any offense in what you said, just want to point out that i thought cv, for newbies, was fine. but, that's my perspective. after all, even goin back to the "glass and marble" sim would still be quite the challenge for any of us - and it hardly has anything to do with flight charateristics.....just simple coordination.... ;) randy ohio

#3450 DangerBird Dec 15, 2006 04:25 PM

FWIW, I didn't use a simulator or training gear. No previous heli experience either. I had my moments and crashes but managed to learn and do FF on the same HB FP with only breaking a few head and LG parts. Then one day a buddy started chanting "LOOP-LOOP" so I tried it 6 mistakes high but unfortunately it resulted in a figure 9 :eek: and really busted it up. Still flying airframe #2. :rolleyes: BTW I have seen the HB looped but it was with a 3 cell lipo and it was still very dicey. He only did it once! :eek: Not trying to slam simulators cuz I know how much they have helped many but I have also seen where they can teach you bad habits and make you over confident. The biggest thing is to develop the "muscle memory" as well as getting the hang of constantly flying the tail (nose) on the left stick. -Mike

#3451 jsy nobby Dec 15, 2006 04:51 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Tweekster L

I run a Park 370 5400kv BL motor,stock 10t pinion ,an E-pro 25amp BESC plumbed into the stock 4-in-1 with 2 cell 12c 800mah lipos...AUW (kitchen scales!!!) 280 grams with the dual tail motor mod.... -Andy

#3452 pmui Dec 15, 2006 07:09 PM hi all, I just got my HB 2 today. I was looking for the instruction on how long to charge the stock battery on the manual. It does not say. any advice. Thanks/

#3453 JustPlaneChris Dec 15, 2006 07:13 PM

It'll probably take about an hour. Check the temperature, and when it starts to get warm it is charged. -Chris

#3454 corwyn Dec 15, 2006 07:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by pmui l

If it explodes or bursts into flame, that's too long. LOL! Seriously, though, I think it says to charge until it gets warm. I wasn't particularly enthused about those directions, either. :( (Fortunately, the LiPos from my BCX fit)

#3455 DoomsDay Dec 15, 2006 08:15 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird L

Some people have the ability to fly already in them. Many have to learn that skill over and over and over again. Roughly 10+ years ago I bought my first rc vehicle which was a gas heli. I really wanted to learn how to fly and in total I probably spent somewhere around 1500 bucks to get everything I needed. I had this dos based flight sim that used wire frames for the vehicles. It tought me alot! But there was a few things that really helped me to learn. First a friend who flew heli's came over and setup my radio and test flew my heli after I built it. He loaned me his hula hoop landing gear so I wouldn't bust up my heli. I then spent 2-3 hours every night for 2 weeks running that sim. Then I started to in conjunction with the sim, going outside and hovering my heli (Always tail in). I had gotten to the point that I could hover for as long as I wanted. I could hover it forward to the sides and back. But I couldn't nose in yet. In the simulator I always crashed nose in so I did not have any confidence at all in trying that. So finally my big day came. I decided to take it out to a baseball field and actually try some things. My friends took me out there on a semi cold and very cloudy day. I was very content just hovering out there. I had taken what I thought was big steps in that I was taking my heli up 20-30 feet in the air and maintaining altitude and placement. But they to did the COME ON, CANT YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE BESIDES HOVER! This is where things changed. In the sim I had flown circles many times and felt I could do it but was still scared to as this was a $300 heli. Well I did take it and flew a circle. man was it great. After the circle I had to land it I was shaking so bad. Well, It started to mist a little bit and I started to pack it in and go. ONE MORE TIME said my friends, and being the stupid person I am, said Ok! This time I was even more stupid. I took it up way high, just past the tree tops and decided to fly a circle. I never in my life thought this would happen, I lost the heli. It was gone, no longer to be seen anywhere. In retrospect a white body and white blades on a cloudy white background is not the smartest thing to do hehe. I did find the heli, it was on its way back down to the ground. It was completely recoverable but I froze and SPLAT! right into the ground. It was years before I flew again and by then I went into electric planes. The moral of this is never take your friends on your first flights and SIMS are ALWAYS a good thing for starting out!

#3456 DangerBird Dec 15, 2006 08:53 PM

DoomsDay, Sure, but you still listened to the peanut gallery which ended in disaster (like mine) and kept you out of the hobby for a while. :eek: BTW, my incident happened right after I started to do FF and was feeling pretty invincable and confident. Please don't get me wrong, Sims are good, I just didn't use one. The 2 Dogs and wife wouldn't come outside on the patio while I was learning to hover. That took several weeks and parts. :rolleyes: -Mike

#3457 DoomsDay Dec 15, 2006 10:20 PM

Yep, Like an idiot I listened to them. I have since grown older and wiser and will/have ignored them since. The sim however kept me from needing parts during my hover training as I never wrecked once (man that heli was setup great).The only bad thing that happened to me during that time was when I forgot to switch my radio memory from the sim back over to my heli. That was almost disastrous But luckily my body was in the way when I was starting my heli and it went to full throttle immediatly and the head stopped on my leg while i unplugged the gas line. I figure it saved me at least a few thousand in new helis hehe. When I went to flying airplanes (stayed in park flyers) I still flew sims and always made sure I was confident inside the sim before I tried it with the airplanes. That saved me tons of money right there. the only crash I had in airplanes was when I built my first balsa kit, I had some building errors and when I took it out on its maiden flight, I flew it for about 40 minutes or so before the control horn popped off of the elevator and sent it straight into the ground at full speed. LOL, the funny thing is it busted the plane and the prop never got hurt. Im not saying i didnt have crashes. I had a few, but they weren't due to pilot error. usually they were caused by a sudden gust of wind when flying to low or due to building errors. Thats why I think sims are absolutely needed for most first time fliers. It saves on part replacement and helps to build confidence and will help to keep you in the hobby longer if you don't destroy something every time you take it out to fly. However, it doesn't help to get rid of stupidity when you got people trying to get you to do stuff your not ready for hehe.

#3458 jsy nobby Dec 15, 2006 11:35 PM

Now here's a first,after stuffing my copter into the wardrobe last night during a full power climb(later discovered it was a dodgy servo that would'nt re-centre itself,poor heli shot forwards and I could'nt recover it :( ) Anyway, wrecked a blade and tore the motor from it's screws....fortune would have it that two new sets were in mail box when I got home from work today,so after fixing the motor and replacing the servo it was time to balance the rotor blades.....to my disbelief the blighters were nearly spot on,straight out of the pack, a little white tape on the slightly lighter blade so I can see the rotor disc,and off she flies again and the blades track perfectly...maybe my luck is starting to change at last!!!! Not gonna count my chickens tho..... -Andy.

#3459 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 12:01 AM

New servos would anyone like to suggest a reliable make of servo? Although the stock ones seem to work well,they just don't work well long enough for my liking !!! that's the third servo that's given up since I got my heli...fair enough the first two got fried on 3s lipo's but I'd expect a new one to hold out for longer than a month! Thanx in advance, -Andy

#3460 corwyn Dec 16, 2006 12:07 AM

Wow, buy yourself a lottery ticket! (Do you have those in the UK?) Such a string of luck...it's almost more likely that you would have found another world on the other side of that wardrobe...

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

#3461 mem Dec 16, 2006 02:10 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby l I have found Hitec HS-55 servo to be very reliable and they work well on my HB. I picked mine up from my local AlsHobbies for around £8 each. You will need to widen the spacing between mounting holes by a fraction of a mm with a fine rat tail file.

#3462 JustPlaneChris Dec 16, 2006 03:30 AM

Afternoon FP fun

Hey guys, I posted a rather long video in the forum just now. Sorry about the file size! http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=611491 It's nothing special, just some buzzing around this evening to give my newly-repaired Telebee HH gyro a shakedown in something where I didn't really care if it freaked out and caused a crash. ;) It's surprising how much tail control the FP has with a HH gyro installed. But it's a silly thing to do, kinda like putting a $200 saddle on a $10 horse. :rolleyes: I also accidentally posted this message as a new thread in the micro forum, instead of here. Sorry if you've already read this. :) -Chris

#3463 Wren1702 Dec 16, 2006 03:50 AM

1 Attachment(s) Good news for those of you who don't want the super-gear anymore...... I've found a use for them! I really crashed my REVO this week (Broke the frames!) and found myself out of replacement landing gear legs. Then I think about my now unused super gear, remove the "adapter" portion of the gear....drill 4 new holes...... bam! New L/G for my REVO CP! And to boot, they have more flex to them than the OEM gear. I am re-kitting my REVO as I sit and type this. :D :D You haven't lived until you've crashed a CP helicopter real good! :eek: :eek: All hail the HB II!

#3464 Flying-Addict Dec 16, 2006 03:54 AM

Guys, are these the lipo battery packs to get for this ship? http://www.commonsenserc.com/produc...&products_id=77 Looks like they're selling 2 for $21 now?? F/A

#3465 corwyn Dec 16, 2006 03:59 AM

That's an 8c. You probably want to go with the 10c instead: http://www.commonsenserc.com/produc...&products_id=42

#3466 DangerBird Dec 16, 2006 05:45 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Flying-Addict L

They are actually ok. I ran 4 of them for almost 6 months and they are still fine. They just lack the punch that the 10C or 12C have. (less voltage sag under load) Chris is out partying with his $200 gyro on a $10 airframe :) and I wind up putting in my HB FP from about 30ft! :eek: Was doing some funnels and thought I lost tail authority. Stopped the funnel and flew out....real far....too far :eek: and lost orientation and dumb thumbed it in. Killed the throttle before piling in saving the 4-in-1. Broke a ball on the yolk and some LG carbon (everytime!) Stopped by the LHS after dark and picked up several GWS heli yolks for $2 and some Blade CP LG which fit perfect and should hold up better. The GWS yolk, with a little bit of carving with a knife snapped on perfectly with a head stiffiner :p and should work fine. Flew a pack out on the patio and seemed to handle as before. :cool: -Mike

#3467 johnnycat500 Dec 16, 2006 06:00 AM

1 Attachment(s) ??????

#3468 mem Dec 16, 2006 06:53 AM

??????

Johnny, it looks like that head was designed by MC Escher :) . If that’s real and not a Photoshop flight of fancy ;) then lets have some more pictures please.

#3469 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 09:22 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L

Thanks mem!

#3470 CarbonPanda Dec 16, 2006 10:25 AM

Hi Guys Just got a new telebee HH gyro and a T-5 ESC for the tail motor. However, I have no idea how to connect all these up with the stock 4-in-1. This is my first major mod. Anyone has a diagram to show on how the setup should be done? Thanks

#3471 Gino CP Dec 16, 2006 11:03 AM http://www.helihobby.com/html/separate_electronics.html

#3472 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 12:37 PM can fix,will fix...

3 Attachment(s) Lo All, I was searching around a local motor accessory shop looking for a new tap driver, when I came across a rather nifty looking antenna.No tap driver to be had,so I bought the antenna,wondering how I could attach it to the battle scarred telescopic remains I had in the Tx at home.....20 minutes later I have this.....works great indoors,dunno about the range over longer distances,I've not had a chance to test it outside. I was gonna buy a proper flexible antenna for £25:00....this repair cost £3:99! -Andy

#3473 ritzheli Dec 16, 2006 01:18 PM

Get rid of those weights

Hello jsy nobby, I noticed in your photos your flybar weights are located 1/2 way, move 'em to the center and watch how your response changes. If brave enough (ie.'flying time') remove them both, things will get really fun after that! :eek: :p If you remove them be sure to re-center/balance the paddles. ;) After you have flown dozens of times and still seek better response, switch the flybar links to the swashplate, use the arms that are longer on the swashplate itself. :) Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying

#3474 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 01:31 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by ritzheli L

Ritz, you're one of those "Eggers" I've been reading about so much of late aren't you? :D :D....I've tried to be brave and broken stuff before now, but I'm progressing quite well so I may well take the weights off,I tried the longer arms the other night and found that my heli was a bit too quick in changing direction for my liking.....thanks for the advice tho! -Andy

#3475 ritzheli Dec 16, 2006 01:47 PM

Flying Fun @ its' Best

Hello Andy, I'm not suggesting you get a 'out of control' heli, but the day will come when you will want that extra control :rolleyes: . Take your time in aquiring your flying time/skills and keep that 'grin' going, smiling takes less energy from your brainwaves! :) I used all these changes (they're free) when my skills progressed to outside flying. It helps when you have to avoid things like, fences :eek: , trees :eek: , railings :eek: , houses, you get my point. :p It's all about fun and enjoying a great hobby. Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying

#3476 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 02:02 PM

Ok Ritz, you win!!! I just flew out a pack with the weights all the way in...I have to say this is the first time I've actually been able to "Rock and Roll"(one of Radd's terminologies) fly my heli without crashing!!! Response is really quick now and I guess my thumbs have gotten a little quicker since the last time I tried this!!!! Thanks m8,there's a big cheesy grin on my face!!!! Regards -Andy

#3477 gfdengine204 Dec 16, 2006 02:44 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by ritzheli L

Cars, Trucks, Dogs, Cats (ok, maybe not cats so much lol), small children, Interstate Overpasses, Police Cars....oh, wait, I shouldn't have mentioned those last two....LOL ;)

#3478 johnnycat500 Dec 16, 2006 02:47 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L hey mem....its not Photoshop just another one of my [ I dont know what I'm doing experiments ] lol I have 2 hours in machining the 2 stands and making the upper head. The blades run up real nice but as soon as it gets airborne it has no control. now if any of you guys know how this would work, and want to give some pointers i am ready to do the work....john

#3479 kryptoniteRxn Dec 16, 2006 02:59 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by ritzheli L

Agree, doing so reduces gyroscopic effect, thus greatly increases response. I actually had to do this right afta i tried to fly the heli bc it was too slugglish. Just a pref that transitioned over from my T-Rex.

#3480 kryptoniteRxn Dec 16, 2006 03:02 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L i respect your preference, but it's like driving in the city, safe and slow, however, longer time to destination. Try the freeway, maybe speed a little, there's that fear of cops and accidents, but adrenalin is sky high. Im just saying, you wont kno whether you'd like or not until you try.

#3481 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 03:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by johnnycat500 l

Assuming the rotors spin in the same direction then I guess that they'll acheive vortex ring state as soon as the headspeed is great enough to achieve lift off....I think what you're doing is creating two vacuums which would ultimately cancel out any lift generated by either set of rotors....would work well if you could make it Co-axial.... -Andy

#3482 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 03:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn l

Cheers kryptonite, I tried ...... and I like very much....kind of like doing 120mph on my bike when the maximum speed limit over here is 40..... -Andy

#3483 johnnycat500 Dec 16, 2006 03:22 PM jsy nobby...thanks for your input. i like how " acheive vortex ring state" sounds. i cut down a set of blades and they would not even get the bird off the ground. [ stock fp 2 blades ] do you think that would work better with 4 cut down blades?

#3484 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 03:39 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by johnnycat500 l

To be honest mon ami, I feel that this one's a non starter....I think you definetly need to make the rotors go in opposite directions to create lift...the bottom set of rotors accentuating the lift generated by the top set...and then you have to take into account the torque that's been negated by the counter-rotational forces....IE do away with the left+right tail rotor effect and make it go up+down to fly forwards and backwards....

#3485 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 04:15 PM crazy experiments that work....

4 Attachment(s) Hey Johnnycat, thought you might like to see this...after nearly running out of rotors,I came up with this little trick,as you can see from the pix,one blade is a stock Esky and the other is a pattern blade(from another pair of unknown origin).Totally mismatched weight wise I hasten to add...So I pondered as to how to get them to balance without removing too much from the overall length of either blade...Et voila! A little bit of drilling,soldering and sanding later I have a perfectly balanced pair of mismatched rotors that fly pretty much perfectly,I did this at the tips of the blades so as to not upset the aerodynamics of them too much(less lift is generated at the tip of the blade.) the blade with three dots on it are holes drilled and filled with solder,the taped blade just has lots of holes drilled in it...as you can see,the rotor assembly balances quite well! -Andy

#3486 johnnycat500 Dec 16, 2006 06:07 PM thats pretty cool how you did the balance job. I have one more thing to try for the 4 rotor deal.but I'll have to admit I am barking up the wrong tree. It sure is fun to mod the fp even if it does not work

#3487 sedohr Dec 16, 2006 06:17 PM anybody seen this? came across this on ebay just now...... http://cgi.ebay.com/4Ch-RTF-SpyHawk...1QQcmdZViewItem not sure from all the pics exactly what we'd get with this - some pics show camera w/modified canopy, some without, a few pics of our beloved FP.... but for a wireless cam tx/rx and gyro... maybe not a bad deal? check out the max weight - not sure if this is max total lift capacity or auw..... don't bother with the vids shown, too pixely but if that's stable, i'd hate to see when the pilot gets unstable.. :p randy ohio

#3488 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 06:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sedohr l

Looks nice but black is'nt a good idea when when your heli's far away from you 'cos it just becomes a silouhette...think I'll stick to the devil I know ta....

#3489 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 06:44 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by johnnycat500 l

Try it,fly it...if it don't work,modify it!! I think you need to get some more batteries John, I think you need to spend more time flying and less time tinkering....Bit like me really!!! :D :D -Andy

#3490 Flying-Addict Dec 16, 2006 07:00 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by DangerBird L

Thanks for the reply, Mike. F/A

#3491 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 07:30 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

Thought I'd go have another look and the link's been cancelled....what does that tell you? sold out or just selling duffers? -Andy http://cgi.ebay.com/4Ch-RTF-SpyHawk...1QQcmdZViewItem

#3492 johnnycat500 Dec 16, 2006 08:05 PM

1 Attachment(s) ok here it is ...lol....don't work but sure is pretty

#3493 sedohr Dec 16, 2006 08:07 PM interesting indeed...... now it says the listing was cancelled by ebay. there were like 19 left when i looked just before i posted above. i don't remember exactly how many transaction the seller had but it was a few with a 98.9% feedback i think..... from hong knog if i recall...... oh well...... back to the fp :rolleyes: randy ohio

#3494 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 08:18 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by johnnycat500 l

Ok....four rotors are gonna need twice the power to steer them right? you only have one flybar.... ;) I just luuurrrve picking holes :D :D :D :D -Andy

#3495 johnnycat500 Dec 16, 2006 08:30 PM how about 2 big a$$ paddles...lol...would that help

#3496 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 08:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by johnnycat500 l hahahahahh...Johnny,you might as well go get yourself a canoe paddle and cut it down m8!!!!! :D :D :D

#3497 Fly Or Die Dec 16, 2006 08:38 PM

Raidentech and its affiliates were the only ones who had it for about 100 and now they are out. Do you guys know of anywhere esle I can get this heli cheap? Is this worth it? http://www.hobby-lobby.com/honeybee3.htm It seems to be overpriced, even with the lipo...

#3498 ritzheli Dec 16, 2006 08:38 PM

Picture of blade balancer

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

Hello Andy, Can you show any additional photos of your homemade tool?(need more than a frontal view) :confused: The better we all can balance our blades, very important for smooth flying. I'm a "tinkerer", always thinking, "What can I do next to my favorite bird?" BTW glad you have found the 'grin' frontier, yes it is addicting is't it! :p (or is it our desire to make our heart rate sky-rocket) :eek: :D :D Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying

#3499 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 08:38 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sedohr l

Erm...where's hong knog? lol...

#3500 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 08:53 PM

4 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by ritzheli L

For you Ritz,anything...if you search my posts there are some showing how I made this with diagrams and explanations as to how I reduced the stiction between the rotorhead assy. and cradle....I use the little scales to see which blade is heavier before I assemble the rotors onto the head. To answer your question....I've not had this much fun for years!!!! gotta try and figure out my camera next,these pix are crap!!!! Regards, -Andy

#3501 ritzheli Dec 16, 2006 09:05 PM

Ahhhhh pictures......

Thanks Andy, That's what I needed, I read your earlier post, but was a little confused what you were explaning. :confused: I'm heading to my workshop right after this reply. ;) :) BTW your camera is ok for us tinkerers!(I just needed a hint, ya know a picture is worth a thousand words) Regards, Stephen :D Happy Flying

#3502 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 09:09 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by ritzheli L

Lucky man...you have a workshop....I have only my bedroom, a bit of know how and a few tools.... :D :D :D glad to be of assistance, -Andy

#3503 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 09:33 PM oops..

#3504 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 09:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Fly Or Die L http://www.rcscale.co.uk/eshop/prod...hp?prod=108eSky try this...total heli cost was £77:00 gbp...they're not really in the uk 'cos it arrived with a chinese airway bill on it! :D

#3505 black_box Dec 16, 2006 09:50 PM how do you get the tail motor heatsink mounted? There isn't enough room on the rear side, the tail rotor axle is in the way. On the other side, the wires come right out of the tail boom and go to the motor leads. There didnt seem to be enough play in the wires to remove the motor either. Does the gear need to come off to pull it through?

#3506 JustPlaneChris Dec 16, 2006 09:51 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box l Unfortunately, you have to desolder the motor leads, pull the motor out and install the heatsink from the gear end. It's a pain, but you won't have to do it again until you replace the motor. :) -Chris

#3507 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 10:02 PM

Do my eyes deceive me...it would seem not, JPC is in the house ladies and gentlemen!!!! How's that giro holding out chris? expensive party outfit BTW.. :D -Andy

#3508 JustPlaneChris Dec 16, 2006 10:04 PM

Yup, I'm here. Too windy to be out flying, even though it's near 80 degrees today! You know, the HH gyro is so much fun in the FP I just may leave it there until I absolutely need it for something else. Sure, it's overkill, but it sure is fun to be able to point the nose in any direction (regardless of direction of flight) and have it just stay there. :cool: Party outfit?? -Chris

#3509 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 10:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L

DangerBird said you were out partying with your new giro... :p

#3510 JustPlaneChris Dec 16, 2006 10:08 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L Oh, I thought you'd been watching the video of our dance performance dress rehearsal on my website. :rolleyes: :D -Chris

#3511 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 10:12 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L

I must have missed the link mon ami......

#3512 JustPlaneChris Dec 16, 2006 10:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L Probably missed it because I didn't post it! http://www.justplanechris.com/studio/index.php And just to keep things on topic, there's all kinds of heli stuff on my site too. :) -Chris

#3513 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 10:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L

I think you were born high on the joys of life Chris.....I'd like to take this opportunity to thank you for your help,JPL for her patience with regards to your good self,and to wish you and yours my very best wishes for the festive season...in fact...merry christmas to ALL rotorheadz!!! :D :D :D -Andy

#3514 JustPlaneChris Dec 16, 2006 10:33 PM

Thank you, Andy! JPL and I both think that if one isn't having fun in life, well... what's the point really? :cool: And a Merry Christmas (or whatever you celebrate) to you as well! -Chris

#3515 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 11:25 PM

To the fire starter

Happy christmas Wren....nearly a year on since your first post on this thread,best wishes to you and yours for christmas! :D :D :D -Andy

#3516 black_box Dec 16, 2006 11:41 PM i guess i'm done with my first battery (no casualties :p ), didnt seem to have much power and the solid red light was coming on at lower throttle levels. The battery is showing about 7.6 volts, is that about right? it sure didnt Seem very long, but maybe i didnt charge it enough? would be nice to have an LED that says when its done. It was on for about an hour and was just starting to warm up.

#3517 lovespicyfood Dec 16, 2006 11:48 PM

Hello Everyone! I'm happy to say that I've just joined the ranks of the HB II owners group! :D As I posted sometime earlier, I got this as a bday gift from my siblings a couple weeks ago. I've been perusing this thread and was busy "modd'ing" it before it's first flight. Here's what I did: water break-in of the motor, "fuse" mod, 4-40 bolts for the blades and I installed the "lipo" hanger as justplanechris had recommended. I'm using some 950mah 2s lipos. I know 800mah 2s lipos are recommended, however, mine weigh 2.3 oz. and the stock nimh weighs 3.1 oz. so I figured I might as well use them since I already had them. All I have to say is WOW!!!! I had a GMP Cricket as a kid many many years ago and I could never fly that thing worth beans. I was lucky to be able to hover it for ~5-10 seconds at a time. I believe I was able to clock in ~20 second hovers today ranging from a height of a few feet to ~8 feet in the air. I flew two full packs through it and was successful, no crashes/damage!!!! I might also add that I've been practicing on Realflight G2 and I think that made a big difference. I can do a nose-in hover on G2, but I didn't have the bravado to try that in real life today. I still have a tendency to "space out" and lose orientation at times w/ nose-in... I have a couple questions I hope you could answer for me... First off, I can't seem to adjust the gyro properly. I have to constantly use right rudder to keep the HB pointed in the direction I want. I have adjusted the "proportional" control on the 4-1 and it doesn't seem to make a big enough difference. Am I doing something wrong? Should I trim it using the trims on the transmitter? I can fly it by inputting a constant "right rudder" but shouldn't I be able to trim it out essentially (ideally?) "hands off"? Having never used a gyro I'm a bit confused at its capabilities... Also, I noticed that the gear on the tail rotor seems warped. Looking at it straight from the back you can see it travel from left to right a little. Is that okay? I also noticed that the main rotor seems to travel a little "up and down" when viewing it from the sides. Finally, is there a manual online somewhere where I can see how to do things like taking off the rotor head? I had the hardest time threading in the 4-40 bolts since the body of the helo was in the way of my allen wrench. I finally figured out that the ball links pop off pretty easily to make room. There are a few things that I haven't done that I need to do. First off, I need to balance the main blades and tail rotor. I see that some people mentioned using an electronic scale. I have a scale that measures down to a tenth of an ounce. Is that not precise enough? I'm thinking it isn't. One last question, I didn't even check the tracking of the blades. The black of the blades just blends in such that I have no idea how they are tracking. Would it make sense to put some monokote trim on the blades temporarily to allow me to track them? And to adjust, you bend the BLADE or the BLADE HOLDER? Thanks again for all of your help! I'm really excited that I've been "successful" so far and I look forward to getting better in the new future. Now time to setup another bday present, a plug-in-play Typhoon. :D

#3518 doodle bug Dec 16, 2006 11:49 PM

I got some 9.6 volt nicad battery from a friend, and was wondering if The extra volt would fry the four in one. thanks.

#3519 jsy nobby Dec 16, 2006 11:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box l

Are you running stock Nickel metal hydride batteries? If you are then I'm afraid they don't fly for very long.....7.6v seems to be about right for fully discharged NI-mh batteries,A good stock battery will show about 10.4v fully charged. 2s lipo's are the way to go.

#3520 jsy nobby Dec 17, 2006 12:05 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by lovespicyfood L

Jeez,can you type some or what? :D :D I'd refer to the manual if I were you...although it's a little hard to understand,it'll make itself clear enough as you go along...No need to bend the rotorhead,just the blades if they're not running true...and a little white tape on one of the blades will help no end...and pop the rotorhead assembly off it's bearings one end at a time and you'll do it no harm...just takes a bit of oomph...and see either ssg scott's or my posts on rotor balancing...Oh,turn up the tail proportion a bit,you'll not have to fly the tail so hard..... -Andy

#3521 jsy nobby Dec 17, 2006 12:13 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by doodle bug L

Probably won't fry the brain box but may well damage the servos and motors...I'm not 100% sure on this...my 4-in-1 has survived 11.1v lipos but the rest of the gear has failed at one point or another... -Andy

#3522 black_box Dec 17, 2006 12:19 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L yes, its the stock NiMH. I let it sit for a bit, now its back on the charger, I'll check voltage when its "done". thanks.

#3523 TooTall Dec 17, 2006 12:20 AM

Also the tail rotor gear does wobble somewhat ..I had one from a hummingbird fp I swapped out for ...the hummingbird tail rotor gear is a little beefier and runs a little more true ...Tom

#3524 Fly Or Die Dec 17, 2006 12:20 AM

Anyone here bought from hobby4less.com? I was thinking of buying one of these little things from there but dunno if I can trust em...

#3525 jsy nobby Dec 17, 2006 12:24 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Fly Or Die L

Erm...who? risk it for a biscuit if you're desperate FOD...

#3526 gfdengine204 Dec 17, 2006 12:47 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L

Chris, I take it from this subject, the HHG was expensive? Also, with the stock HB, can you install it with the original 4-in-1? Would it just override the built-in gyro? I am learning so much here already. :D

#3527 kryptoniteRxn Dec 17, 2006 01:02 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 L

It's more complicated than that, the process is refered to as "going separate", go here: http://www.helihobby.com/html/separate_electronics.html

#3528 gfdengine204 Dec 17, 2006 01:06 AM

Thanks kryptonite, I will look it over. Complicated sounds like something to wait on.....but thats ok too :)

#3529 midieval10 Dec 17, 2006 02:49 AM

Hi everyone, I just bought a HB after owning a LamaV3. The HB is so hard to control! As I was learning to hover, I crashed into a wall. One of the rotor head piece (the one connecting to the ball) broke. Can I fly it with a missing ball link? Also, my tail boom can rotate freely now. I'm not sure if it did that before. I don't think it's suppose to rotate freely, is it?

#3530 JustPlaneChris Dec 17, 2006 03:26 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn L

Yep, that's one way to do it. If all you want to do is bypass the onboard gyro, you really only need a tiny phillips screwdriver (to take apart the case on the 4-in-1) and a couple of short servo extensions. Read through this thread to see how to separate the receiver and 3-in-1: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=589877 Once you separate the 3-in-1 (or if you're using a 3-in-1 from a Blade CP Pro like I am) it's easy to install a separate gyro. You just plug the 3-in-1's rudder plug into the gyro, then plug the gyro into the rudder channel on the receiver. Oh, and turn down the gyro on the 3-in-1 to zero. The Telebee HH gyro is $59.99 from HeliDirect. -Chris

#3531 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 03:28 AM

I think I've read that you can fly with one missing. I used some super glue to put mine back on, then I wrapped around the base of the ball with some thread and held it in place with a bit more super glue. And no, it's not supposed to rotate freely. I would guess that it's super glued in, too. I had my own crash today, too. Was trying to set up the Futaba controller for the HBFP2 (I got impatient and got a servo at the LHS), and noticed that the rudder control was backwards, so I reversed the rudder channel. This caused the helicopter to fly up to the ductwork in my buddy's garage and slam into the wall before I had presence of mind to give full throttle on the controller. Uh, oops...that was the wrong channel :censored: Snapped one of the skids and the 4-in-1 mount portion of the frame. Some CA and a zip-tie, and I'm back in business until my new main frame arrives in a few days (everybody seems to be out of the bare bones kit). The good news is that, once I got it back together, I did a much better job of flying her. I guess the extra space (and lack of any wind) inside the 2-car garage was good for me and my confidence. I could hold something hover-like within about a 3-foot diameter circle for about 30 seconds at a time, and something closer to a hover (within a foot circle or so) for about 5-10 seconds. My previous record was up in the air to crash in about 5-10 seconds ;)

#3532 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 03:40 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L

Just to confirm (and summarize), you remove the receiver from the 4-in-1 (which becomes a 3-in-1) or use the 3-in-1 from a BCPP, then hook up a gyro and separate receiver (the DX6 in that thread)? Or can you just plug back into the stock receiver (basically just inserting the gyro inline between the 3-in-1 and the receiver with some extensions)?

#3533 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 03:58 AM

BTW, how does one remove the pinion gear from the motor? I got an 11T pinion today and want to install it

#3534 TooTall Dec 17, 2006 04:07 AM sounds like it's time for you to invest in a pinion puller ....I got mine a couple of years ago from stevensaeromodel.com ...nice guy to work with and nice online shop...Tom

#3535 JustPlaneChris Dec 17, 2006 04:17 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L Yes, and yes. :) Either way. I'm using a different receiver, since I fly JR and their transmitters won't talk to the stock receiver. -Chris

#3536 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 04:21 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by TooTall l

Nice, thanks! Looks like they're closed for the holidays, but I'll look back next month (year). :)

#3537 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 04:23 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L

Cool...there's a never-ending list of ways to spend money in this hobby, isn't there? I think I'll keep plugging away without a HH gyro for a while until either I a) get better and decide to make my life easier or b) get frustrated trying to hold the tail while learning to fly the rest.

#3538 JustPlaneChris Dec 17, 2006 04:24 AM

The HH gyro certainly isn't necessary! 99.99% of my flying time on my FP has been without it, and it has made me a better pilot from flying the yaw axis much more actively. :) -Chris

#3539 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 04:25 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris l

That's what I'm hoping works for me, too.

#3540 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 04:26 AM

You know...I keep wondering what happens to Andy, Mem, et al. later on at night...and then I remember that it's 4:30AM for them right now. :rolleyes:

#3541 Almaz Dec 17, 2006 04:27 AM

It might sound funny but I'm having problem to remove flybar. what is the best way to remove Flybar with Paddle control frame. I just want to remove it and balance it. Also what is the best way to unglue/remove tail boom?

#3542 TooTall Dec 17, 2006 04:29 AM

If Bill is closed for the holidays , check with allerc.com ...I know at one time he had the pinion pullers ...haven't checked lately ...Tom p.s. the set is around a 10 spot

#3543 TooTall Dec 17, 2006 04:37 AM http://www.allerc.com/product_info....&products_id=20 ...here you go , he has them ...Tom

#3544 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 04:38 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Almaz L

If you look below the swashplate, there's a locking collar. If you loosen that, the shaft can slide down a little bit, and then you remove the retaining pin from the bottom side of the main drive gear. Then (assuming all the appropriate linkages are disconnected) you can pull the whole thing out to balance it. Or you can just remove the motor, which leaves the shaft free to rotate, and then you can balance it all in place. I've never removed the tail boom, so I don't know.

#3545 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 04:39 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by TooTall l

Thanks, Tom!

#3546 PeterVRC Dec 17, 2006 04:57 AM

?? Almaz Undo the two grub screws that are under the fly-bar control plate. That allows the fly-bar to slide out. Of course remove any weights and at least one paddle first! Plus any ball links still attached. But really, you don't need to do that to balance it all anyway. Just weigh and trim the paddles if required (prob not). Then just balance the fly-bar assy with the rotor hub and blades off. Sliding the fly-bar, to get equal length each side, is done via loosening those mentioned grub screws.

#3547 Almaz Dec 17, 2006 05:13 AM

I love my honey bee fp. I got 2 helicopters this week Honey Bee and Blade CX2. I love them both but I might eventually sell Blade CX2 and spend some more money on Honey Bee :) I'm thinking about doing moth on Honey Bee so I can fly in the room. Swatson144 made a great moth out of HB2. Now I just need the dimensions and figure out how to unglue tail boom. For the past 3 days flying 10ft by 10ft and I can easily hover, nose in and nose out and FF, but I'm havin problem with the space. This is my first heli's and love them both. Also I found out Real Flight G3 is very unrealistic comparing flying FP2 but It's ok for training. I might as well make Reflex work on my computer in the future once I get a couple of PIC chips to bypass USB key.

#3548 lovespicyfood Dec 17, 2006 06:54 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L jsy nobby: Yes, I'm a bit "long winded"! :D I hate to re-post, but can someone let me know what they think about my issues w/ trimming the tail rotor. No matter how much I turn the "proportional" pot on the 4-1, I still need to add right rudder to keep the helicopter pointed in the direction I desire. Am I just doing something wrong? Thanks in advance for your help, I really appreciate it!!!

#3549 c2po Dec 17, 2006 06:59 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

Please tell me the secret - where did you get the pinion from? I can't find 2.0mm 11T pinion anywhere... only 2.3mm...

#3550 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 07:04 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by lovespicyfood l

One thing to check first...are you turning the pot in the right direction? I usually get it backwards (I can never remember which way to turn it, but I always end up guessing incorrectly).

#3551 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 07:06 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by c2po L

I could tell you, but then I'd have to shoot you. :p I got mine here: http://www.toddsmodels.com/Gearbox/gearbox.htm

#3552 lovespicyfood Dec 17, 2006 07:09 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

Corwyn: Yep. I even turned it full clockwise and then full counter clockwise just to see what would happen.

#3553 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 07:21 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by lovespicyfood L

You power cycle your 4-in-1 (i.e.-pull the battery and then reconnect) after changing settings, too? If I'm looking at my helo properly (which is questionable, since it's after 2am for me), if your nose wants to go left, then your main rotor is giving more torque than the tail can counter with the controls at neutral, right? Just guessing, but maybe check your tail rotor to make sure that it's not slipping at all? Mine makes an ugly buzzing sound when that happens (pins slipping on the gear) and I can't control the tail at all, so it's hard to miss, but just in case... Or maybe your tail rotor's motor is bad/has a bad solder connection? Check and make sure all the connections to the 4-in-1 are pushed in all the way. Hopefully one of the more knowledgeable guys will have more insight when they wake up.

#3554 DangerBird Dec 17, 2006 07:27 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by lovespicyfood l

I had the same issues early on and just lived with it for awhile. Found that the gyro gain and prop pots do interact and playing with both may fix yours but it didn't mine. I eventually went to a Hitech Eclipse transmitter and could trim it out with the subtrim (about 40%) on the rudder. I could never get rid of it with the stock xmitter, different tail motors etc. Maybe not what you want to hear but that has been my experience. BTW, it seems to stay constant and has not changed much in many months since I changed transmitters. -Mike

#3555 Gino CP Dec 17, 2006 07:37 AM

1. Not enough Proportion 2. Slipping rotor/gear 3. Worn motor

#3556 PeterVRC Dec 17, 2006 09:26 AM

Almaz, I made up an Esky FP and CP2 for Real Flight - based off the Helimax I think. One each for G3 and 3.5 I basically keep tweaking them to match my own HB's. The FP is at a very good level, the CP2 still need more work - also more so because I can't 3D the real one so it is only based on hovering/FFF. I also only have the FP in permanent idle-up, and the CP2 in permanent 'normal', seeing I use the Esky TX with it. I will check what heli I did base it off, and whether you need an add-on for that or not. Otherwise you can make one up yourself reasonably easily, in probably an hour or few of testing and tweaking etc.

#3557 Almaz Dec 17, 2006 10:10 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by PeterVRC L

This is great. If it is not hard for you, can you please print screen with the settings for FP2 and e-mail me the pictures? I fly helimax cp all the time in Real Flight G3 but this is to easy but in reality it is a lot harder.

#3558 PeterVRC Dec 17, 2006 10:41 AM

1 Attachment(s) HB FP 2 here. I haven't got time to load and check which is which right now. I forget what the base heli was (Helimax I think), but I made this to fly just like my real one. And it flies really easy! lol eg same climb rates...same stick positions for lift off and hover. Basically correct weights and power etc. The G3 one is a bit harder than mine! I haven't been able to get it quite as stable, but it is very close. Part of the sim problem is the visuals are not anywhere near what you truly see with the full peripheral ability, and focussing ability, in real life. And that makes sims more difficult than reality. Mine is a Himax 2014-4100 brushless, (Thunderbird 9A ESC) but that is only a bit more powerful than stock anyway. The motor isn't really getting anywhere near max use ever. The main benefit of brushless, and worth it, is no more RC glitching! Well, a LOT less anyway. (Just checked - one of them is probably the G3.5 version)

#3559 jsy nobby Dec 17, 2006 01:53 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

Corwyn As much as I like staying up and talking to you guys,the old eyelids start to get a bit heavy at around 02:30, so wonder no more mon ami...I'm just asleep! :D :D :D -Andy

#3560 pmui Dec 17, 2006 02:42 PM hry guys, I just got my Honey Bee FP this week. I tried firing it up today but get some problems. The main rotor won't spin up. can anyone give me some ideas whats wrong. -Charged batteries 1-1/2 till warm -powered up TX -inserted batteries into heli. -4-1 powers up with blinking red light, then turns a steady red. -tx right controls work, left control does not seem to work any ideals? thanks.

#3561 JustPlaneChris Dec 17, 2006 02:48 PM

The blinking red and steady red light means the 4-in-1 is not seeing a "throttle at idle" signal and is not arming. Pull the throttle stick AND the throttle trim all the way down and see if it will arm. -Chris

#3562 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 02:56 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

Well, once I realize what time it is (and remember the time difference), the wonder goes away, and it's more a feeling of stupidity. :D

#3563 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 03:01 PM

I feel like I've heard this before, somewhere... ;)

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L

To ask another question that's probably been asked a million times...what's idle-up?

#3564 mem Dec 17, 2006 03:24 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L idle-up: up at a crazy hour in the night but too idle to do anything but see what my buddies are doing on rcgroups. Idle-up def two: a setting (perhaps more meaningfully called stunt or 3d mode) for setting pitch and throttle curves for providing full negative and positive pitch at the extremes of the throttle stick for collective pitch helicopters.

#3565 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 03:34 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem l

Ah, that makes sense. This is why it's recommended that a beginner to CP helicopters NOT go into idle-up right away. Thanks! As for the first definition, that's the story of my life. :D

#3566 pmui Dec 17, 2006 03:46 PM ok, i've tried the throttle down, no effect on the 4-1 it won't arm. I've just tried a different controller, by swapping the tx crystals. The 4-1 now blink green and red still no throttle. any advise?

#3567 mem Dec 17, 2006 03:57 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by pmui l If you move the sticks do the servos move. If not then the problem is that the receiver is not getting a signal, perhaps a problem with the crytsal in the 4-in-1.

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L Mine too, as indicated by some of my posts at ridiculous hours of the day and night. I am not sure which is more addictive, helicopters or kibitzing with the people here.

#3568 JustPlaneChris Dec 17, 2006 04:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by pmui l Okay, blinking green/red is progress! I'd guess the servos will move now? If so, restrain the heli and try reversing the throttle channel (or go to full throttle) and see if you get a green light. Stay clear of the blades! -Chris

#3569 JustPlaneChris Dec 17, 2006 04:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L Yah, that's a tough call! I get a lot of enjoyment from both activities. :) -Chris

#3570 lovespicyfood Dec 17, 2006 04:29 PM corwyn, Dangerbird & Gino CP Thanks a lot for your suggestions, I really appreciate your time. I'll look at what you suggested and let you know how it goes. I haven't cycled the 4-1 after changing settings so I'll try that. I doubt (hope?) it's not the tail motor since the 'copter is basically brand new. Wish me luck. The beauty of this 'copter IMHO is that it is so inexpensive. I'd rather not have to change to a new transmitter (I have a Spektrum) just yet, though I'm already thinking about a TRex in my future as my skills progress. And I thought planes were addicting! I'm going to have to build a special garage to house all of my TOYS! :D

#3571 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 04:30 PM

Ah, yeah...changing the gyro settings without power cycling the 4-in-1 has no effect.

#3572 gfdengine204 Dec 17, 2006 04:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L

It also helps pass the time at work (when the 911 line isn't keeping me busy) :p

#3573 Wren1702 Dec 17, 2006 05:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gfdengine204 L

I take it you're a dispatcher?

#3574 pmui Dec 17, 2006 05:43 PM no go on the throttle still :( I'll send an email to xheil and what they can do.

#3575 Tweekster Dec 17, 2006 05:46 PM

Has anyone tached the headspeeds on these things? With a 800 MAH 2 cell at Hover speed? Full throttle on a fresh charge? Looking at going brushless in the near future, once I wear out the stock motor. Maybe I'm thinking too hard here, but I see a wide variety of combinations. Using a 140T main gear and sticking with 2-cell at 7.4V under load at full throttle I get the following: 1. Andy - Park 370 5400KV 10 t - 2854 RPM :eek: 2. Stephen - Feigao 1308434S (2753 KV) 11T - 1601 RPM 3. Micheal - Feigao 1308434S (2753KV) 12T - 1746 RPM 4. Others - 4100KV 10t - 2167 RPM I live at 6000 ft, so I could use a little more headspeed in this thin air. Once I hit 7.6V on a 2 cell I can't hover more than 2 feet high. I don't think I would stand too close to Andy at full throttle ;) Discussion?

#3576 Tweekster Dec 17, 2006 05:50 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L

Chris, If I don't go brushless soon, I might throw a Berg 4L RX on my FP so I can atleast use my JR 8103 TX. Any setup tips?

#3577 JustPlaneChris Dec 17, 2006 06:08 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Tweekster L Dooo eeeet! :) Seriously, even on a basic heli like the FP, using good quality radio gear makes a marked difference in the way it flies. You saw how smooth mine was flying in that recent video clip (even in the breeze)? I assure you, that isn't entirely due to my superman piloting skills. :rolleyes: The setup is super easy, since there's no fancy CCPM or anything. I do have some revo mixed in when using the stock gyro, which helps steady the tail during quick throttle changes. That's about it! -Chris

#3578 mem Dec 17, 2006 06:09 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Tweekster L I did tach mine and can’t remember the exact figure but I think it was around 1700. The Feigao is now on my CP running 3S (with 9T)and I still have nowhere near the head speed of Andy. That has to be a typo :eek: If you are measuring 7.6v resting then you want to think about landing. On my CS 800 10C cells, they have only 25% capacity left at 7.6 volts resting and for max battery life you want to leave around 20% in the pack

#3579 JustPlaneChris Dec 17, 2006 06:18 PM

I've seen between 1400 and 1600 rpm on mine at typical hover throttle settings. I've also flown the Feigao / 12T combo, and it seems to provide about the same power as stock. for your altitude, I think a great motor would be the ARC 20-27-80 on 2 cells with a 9T pinion. That'll give you a bit of a bump in speed over the Feigao / 12T combo, and shed about 10g of weight too! :cool: Get the motor and Phoenix 10 at www.lightflightrc.com. If you want to tinker with head speeds without hurting your brain, check out this little tool I built one evening when I was bored: http://www.justplanechris.com/headspeed.php Nothing groundbreaking, and there are others scattered about the web. I just wanted to teach myself how to write in PHP. :rolleyes: -Chris

#3580 mem Dec 17, 2006 06:18 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L I don’t often get the opportunity to disagree with you but I must disagree with the above statement :) I do think that if you switched on the old ESky transmitter and spent a few minutes getting used to the controls you would fly just about as well. You may not enjoy the flying as much but I would guess that your piloting skills would overcome the klunkyness of the stock transmitter

#3581 gfdengine204 Dec 17, 2006 06:24 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Wren1702 L

Yessir, you take it correctly! :) I see you are a volunteer fireman. I spent 7 yrs as a paid-on-call in the Chicago suburbs, and 5 yrs on a rural ambulance squad. Now I am "retired", and just waiting to retire (in 18 years, ugh) from the State Police here. I am hoping this hobby helps keep me sane..... :confused:

#3582 gfdengine204 Dec 17, 2006 06:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L

I am contemplating getting the Spektrum DX-7 (and the wife, somehow, said she thought it sounded like a good deal....huh? lol). Would there be benefit to using it on my HB? And how much trouble will it be to retrofit it? I plan on adding planes as well as helis to my hangar, so I figured the DX-7 was a good way to go. Any thoughts?

#3583 jsy nobby Dec 17, 2006 06:33 PM

1 Attachment(s) Quote: Originally Posted by mem L the somewhat obscured label is'nt fibbing mem...very pokey little motor! http://www.sussex-model- centre.co.u...exd.asp?id=4804 I got it here... -Andy

#3584 JustPlaneChris Dec 17, 2006 06:43 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L Well... maybe. ;) But we won't get to find out because I gave my stock Esky transmitter to a local FP flyer who was having problems with his. So, I stick to my story. It's the radio. :cool: -Chris

#3585 Tweekster Dec 17, 2006 06:56 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mem L

Micheal, Thanks for the info. Yep, that's my 'battery monitor', time to shut down at that point. My main point, FP Pilots at sea level can probably drain their batteries far below that without knowing, but I couldn't go below 7.4V if I wanted to. Air's just too thin. Even on a full pack, I don't have terrific power, so a brushless setup with a little more headspeed may be the answer. (Really, just trying to justify the brushless setup ;) )

#3586 jsy nobby Dec 17, 2006 07:09 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Tweekster L

No justification required...my brushless FP is the sexiest heli on two rotors!!! :D -Andy

#3587 Tweekster Dec 17, 2006 07:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris L

Chris, Thanks for the info. That ARC 20-27-80 looks like the ticket. My hover RPM would probably be around 100-200 higher than yours, say 1600-1800. That would be around 80% on that combo, probably very close to the optimum efficiency range of the motor. I need to bite the bullet and get a tach! I'm familiar with Himax and Feigao, but haven't seen much on ARC, are they decent? Would it bolt straight to the frame, or would I need something like a Park adapter plate?

#3588 Tweekster Dec 17, 2006 07:18 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby l

Dang Andy, Talk about reserve power! How far have you gone on the throttle? Running at about 50% for hover, which is pretty low on the efficiency curve, does it get very hot? ESC very hot? It looks like you have an adapter plate under the motor with a couple of studs?

#3589 Tweekster Dec 17, 2006 07:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

You're killing me :D

#3590 sedohr Dec 17, 2006 07:36 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by pmui l not sure if this has been suggested before - try taking out the tx and rx crystals and reseating them...... randy ohio

#3591 jsy nobby Dec 17, 2006 07:47 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Tweekster L the stud is a temporary repair until I get it to work tomorrow,I don't have the machinery at home to make another plate and at 2/3 throttle it goes skywards very quickly...the motor does get a little warm as does the battery towards the end of it's flight time(about 12 mins) the esc only gets warm cos it's on top of the battery and the now 3-in-1 does'nt seem to mind anything that's going on around it and stays cool.....me happy with my heli!!!! The motor was originally going in an ally frame heli,but I changed my mind and set it up pretty much stock apart from dual tail motors and I love the way it flies.... -Andy

#3592 jsy nobby Dec 17, 2006 08:19 PM

Hey Ritz, How did you get on with the balancer? I'd be stoked to find that it worked for somone else! -Andy

#3593 black_box Dec 17, 2006 08:43 PM

I'm going through the Heli Balancing 2006 FAQ... 1) do I need tools to pop off the ball links from the servos? I managed to pop off the ring-like push rods by hand, kind of a pain though. 2) does the rotor head set just pop straight off? or is there something else holding it in place? 3) Do i need to take off the motor to allow the whole assembly to rotate freely? 4) i see the little metal color on the main shaft, would it be easier to just remove the whole assembly for balancing? It looks like I loosen the collar and slide it up so the whole assembly can fall down a bit, then remove the pin from the main gear? 5) any recommendations for a scale with 0.1 gram accuracy? I love taking stuff apart. --edit- another thing, the wiring on the battery doesn't let it fit snugly within the front party of the battery holder. Not a big deal for buzzing around the floor, but whats the best fix?

#3594 jsy nobby Dec 17, 2006 09:01 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box L

Erm... 1= no tools required,2= yes it does just pop off,do this one end at a time and you'll not hurt it,3= no,you don't have remove the motor and as for number 4....you answered that one for yourself m8!!! with regards to your battery issue...give it a bit more oomph and it'll pop home and another wind on the rubber band'll keep it there...edit...not fair! question 5 wasn't there a second ago!!! sorry can't help with that one! :D -Andy

#3595 midieval10 Dec 17, 2006 09:48 PM

I'm a newbie with this heli. I can only get my heli 2 ft off the ground. It's at full throttle and the red light comes on. Please help! Thanks.

#3596 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 10:45 PM

The red light indicates that you're at full throttle. Is your battery fully charged?

#3597 black_box Dec 17, 2006 10:46 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by midieval10 L the tail boom shouldnt rotate, mine seems to be just glued into the slot of the frame. Which piece broke? can you point it out here? Did you repair your crash damage from this previous post? Andy, thanks for your help. finally got the front (elevator?) servo arm off with the help of some pliers (to push, not squeeze the part)

#3598 jsy nobby Dec 17, 2006 10:53 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by midieval10 L the red light comes on to tell you that your heli is at full throttle...I assume you're running the stock battery and that it's fully charged? your machine needs to be well balanced to fly properly,have you checked main and tail rotor balance as well as centre of gravity? the main rotors need to be tracking properly too...It has been known for NI-mh batteries to be duff straight out of the box which won't help....hope this does! -Andy

#3599 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 10:56 PM

They also make ball-link pliers to pop the linkages off the balls. One side is forked (to hold the linkage on the ball-side), and the other is flat with a bump on it to push the ball through. I got the $12 ones here: http://www.eboyztoyz.com/index.php?...ll+pliers&op=Go They're a little big for the tiny linkages of the HBFP, but they work. And I find them easier to use than my fingers or a pair of normal pliers

#3600 jsy nobby Dec 17, 2006 10:59 PM

Hey Corwyn!, what time is it in the land of the free? it's 23:00hrs here in Jersey so horizontal-ville is only a few hours away!!! :D -Andy

#3601 corwyn Dec 17, 2006 11:17 PM

LOL...subtract 5 hours and that's my time. :p BTW, I'll be in Jersey at the end of the week, although I'll still be a good 5000km from you and still in my current time zone ;)

#3602 TooTall Dec 17, 2006 11:21 PM

EST here in the states is 6:20 pm as I type ....EST = eastern standard time

#3603 jsy nobby Dec 17, 2006 11:31 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

You guys have such cool E-shops in the states!!!

#3604 jsy nobby Dec 17, 2006 11:40 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

I guess you're going to New Jersey for the holidays then m8? I'll still be here in old Jersey when you get back!!! :D

#3605 midieval10 Dec 17, 2006 11:45 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box l

Yes I repaired it by using CA. It's the Rotor Head Set (EK1-0200A). One of the balls snapped off. At the time of my crash, I got it to about waist level and it went into the wall. I'm not sure if it went any higher than that. I also used CA on the tail boom and it stays straight and rigid now. The tracking isn't perfect; it's only a millimeter off so I don't think that should cause the heli to not lift off higher than 2 feet. I used both the stock NiMH and my LamaV3 7.4V 800mah lipo (both fully charged) and they both do the same (get to 2ft, red light turns on, heli comes back down). Would these symptoms be a bad 4in1? Thanks everyone.

#3606 corwyn Dec 18, 2006 12:02 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

It's a dangerous thing. I think that maybe I should have purchased two LipoSacks; one for my LiPos, and the other for my credit card. I watch it carefully for any signs of swelling, in case it might spontaneously combust. I'd trade those e-shops for Keira Knightley, the UK creation. ;) Well, at least most of them...I still need someplace to buy parts after my crashes.

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

Yup...I grew up there, but came up to MA for school and ended up staying here. I still visit my family during the holidays, though. It took me a while to figure out the "m8" part, since we don't use "mate" that way here "on this side of the pond." I was thinking, "No, I drive an M3...and my last name does start with 'M' but it has 11 letters, not 8..." I think I need to stop going to bed at 2-4am. :p

#3607 corwyn Dec 18, 2006 12:10 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by midieval10 L

I don't suppose that your rotor blades are broken, are they? I had that happen once after a crash with my BCX. One of the blades was considerably shorter than it was supposed to be, so I no longer had enough lift to get very far off the ground. Are all your connections (especially the main motor one) secure, and the solder joints still ok? No binding in the rotor shaft or the pinion/drive gear? If everything is physically ok and your batteries are charged, I can only guess that it would be a broken 4-in-1 (but that's just a guess).

#3608 corwyn Dec 18, 2006 12:14 AM

BTW, I just finished the water break-in of my HBFP's motors. I had the gyro mixture set properly at the start, then did a water break-in and timing advance of my main motor. Put that back together, and I had to adjust for the newly-developed and strong counter-clockwise spin of my helo. While I was cooking dinner tonight, I did the break-in of the tail motor (can't figure out how to rotate the can, so I didn't do the timing advance), and when I reinstalled I had to adjust back to counter some strong clockwise spin. Looks like the break-in really does work! The first of my BCX motors is spinning in water right now ;)

#3609 jsy nobby Dec 18, 2006 12:20 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by midieval10 L

Not necessarily...this is a real long shot...have you tried moving the trim sliders up again once the 4-in-1 has armed itself and the LED has gone green? the vertical slider gives more throttle and the horizontal gives more tail thrust... -Andy

#3610 jsy nobby Dec 18, 2006 12:24 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

I think someone neglected to inform you that wet break ins only work properly on new motors...at least it had a bath!!! :D :D

#3611 corwyn Dec 18, 2006 12:29 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

Well, the motors are basically new. I just replaced the BCX's motors with ones from a Vortex...I think I've only put one or two packs through them. And there was a noticeable performance increase with the break-ins I did on the FP, so I guess they were still good enough. With my power-up to catastrophic crash times, I probably haven't put many packs worth of time into flying it, either.

#3612 jsy nobby Dec 18, 2006 12:30 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

LOL...sorry for using SMS text....force of habit! Nice jam jar BTw m8 ...I'm happy on a Jap crotch rocket myself..... :D :D :D :D ...Hmmm MA= mass -of -chew -sets??? :D :D :D -Andy

#3613 corwyn Dec 18, 2006 12:35 AM

Jam jar? My R1 is a 2002 model in the DPBM colo[u]r. What bike do you have? (What, a Brit who *doesn't* ride a Triumph???!!!) EDIT: nevermind...I just looked it up..."jam jar" is slang for car. Thanks...it's a 1997 in Estoril blue (the lighter blue colo[u]r, as opposed to the dark Avus blue available in '95).

#3614 black_box Dec 18, 2006 12:35 AM battery #2 is finished. decided the carpet was good enough for takeoffs and got rid of the 5'x6' piece of cardboard i used the first time (now used to shield the TV). I have to constantly add left rudder, so i think i need to adjust the 4-in-1 pots. I balanced the main blades with a short piece of 3M painter's tape, balanced the heli with 3 nickels taped inside the front of the canopy (battery wouldnt go forward any more. It seems a little sluggish, so I'll move the flyweights inward (came shipped w/ them at the outside). The blade tracking is still slightly off as well :( corwyn, are you on bimmerforums as well? i have a '98 M3/4 that I also autocross.

#3615 jsy nobby Dec 18, 2006 12:48 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L we're really way off topic here Corwyn...Triumph??? I like my teeth right where they are ta very much....Right down there at the bottom of my favourite bike scale,with,dare I say it....Harley Davison.....Now I'm in trouble....you'll never speak to me again!!!! :D :D .I ride an '87 Honda VFR 750...the first of the V4 gear driven cams...146 mph bog standard... -Andy

#3616 corwyn Dec 18, 2006 12:48 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box l

Just a couple of mods...what about you? Performance: John Conforti euro intake Active Autowerke Gen III exhaust Evosport underdrive accessory pullies fan delete Schrick cams OBD-I intake manifold 540 HFM ASC delete 24# fuel injectors DiffsOnline 3.46 40% LSD Samco intake boot Cooling: Fluidyne aluminum radiator Stewart high-performance water pump SPAL 16" curved puller fan Samco hoses Suspension: TC Kline single-adjustable coilovers ///M front strut brace X-brace TCK rear shock mounts Powerflex rear trailing arm bushings Turner Motorsport swaybars Motorforce camber plates RRT reinforced rear lower control arms Lighting: ZKW w/ HID Euro clears Lamin-X foglight film (yellow) Other: Z3 steering rack stainless steel brake and clutch lines Stygar short shift kit UUC tranny mount enforcers VDO Gauges, MB Quart Discus components MB Quart Discus 4" coaxials Audio Art NA 4070 280W amp

#3617 lovespicyfood Dec 18, 2006 12:51 AM

Hello Everyone, I'm HAPPY to report that I finally got my gyro working properly! Thank you corwyn for informing me that I needed to "restart" the 4-1 every time I make an adjustment. I think I still need to adjust the "gain" a little bit. It seems to "hunt" at times. I gotta find my manual, I forget which way to adjust the "gain" for that! :D Did I tell everyone that I love this thing?! I ran ~4 packs through it today with no crash damage. I had a couple tip overs upon landing, but they didn't do a thing. My favorite thing to do right now is to bring it to second story height in my driveway and just hover around a little. I'm finding I'm getting ~8-9 minutes on my 950mah lipos. Does that sound right? I've read that hovering sucks up a lot of juice... I was a bit worried that I didn't have a lipo lvc on this 'copter, but it's quite easy to tell when the power drops off and I must change a battery. I'm pulling them out w/ ~7.5volts left. My cellpro says ~22% charge left. I was stocking up on parts at bphobbies.com today when I realized I was up to $39. I then noticed that the "bare bones" 'copter was only $41 so it just makes sense to go that route. Unfortunately, they are out of stock for 3-4 weeks. Can anyone recommend another reputable online source for "bare bones" Honeybees? Thanks in advance for your help!

#3618 jsy nobby Dec 18, 2006 12:54 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

And you're messing about with helicopters now too....just waiting for "Pimped my chopper "next.... :D :D :D :D :D :D :cool: :cool: VERY nice car dude...

#3619 corwyn Dec 18, 2006 12:55 AM

Glad I could help, lovespicyfood. BTW, sorry for going off-topic...I'll stop after this: Black Box: I'm rarely on bimmerforums, but I'm a moderator on BlackRedGold and DTM Power. jsy nobby: I also hate Harley Davidson, and my very first bike was an '85 Honda VF700F, the older brother of your VFR.

#3620 jsy nobby Dec 18, 2006 12:59 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

Unreliable chain driven cams.... :D :D :D let's call a halt to this and get back to helicopters now shall we? :D -Andy

#3621 jsy nobby Dec 18, 2006 01:04 AM

I'm off to bed....1 am again!!! Nite all...

#3622 corwyn Dec 18, 2006 01:06 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

Yes, I know...I installed the aftermarket top-end oiling kit to solve the cam wear problems due to the cam chain tensioner not working up to spec. But I sold that bike 5 years ago, so it's no longer my problem :D As for helicopters...I held my CP in a 1' circle about 2 feet above the ground for about 30 seconds a bit ago. Then promptly lost the hover, started to see-saw back and forth right into the sofa. LOL! I'm getting better at this thing, but still need more practice. My jerry-rigged 4-in-1 mount (until my new frame comes in) is coming apart, so I'm going to have to either content myself with the BCX for a couple of days, or figure out something better.

#3623 black_box Dec 18, 2006 01:09 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L just a couple, but I can say it with a straight face :p previous owner put on the conforti intake, supersprint exhaust, and conforti software (software is currently removed, too many points for classing) I've done 8.5" doublespokes all around (with 245 tires), swapped strut hats, and ground control coilovers (single adjustable). back to helis... i did try forcing the battery into the front holder, it didnt like it and managed to almost jump out on a rough landing.

#3624 corwyn Dec 18, 2006 01:09 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jsy nobby L

Thanks! My Blade CX has: MicroHeli aluminum upper hub and inner shaft MicroHeli aluminum bearing holder MicroHeli aluminum lower hub MicroHeli aluminum swashplate Dynam Vortex motors Dynam Vortex flybar Stersman's carbon fiber boom Stersman's carbon fiber skids Short stubby antenna (can't remember the brand offhand) :D

#3625 corwyn Dec 18, 2006 01:11 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box l

Which holder do you have? I installed the one from a Blade CP and rubberbanded the LiPo to it.

#3626 mem Dec 18, 2006 01:26 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by lovespicyfood L I am not sure if you had an answer to your question, I got lost in all the OT posts :rolleyes: Turn the gain pot counter clockwise to decrease, think the same direction as you would decrease audio volume.

#3627 black_box Dec 18, 2006 01:28 AM just the stock holder. It fits nicely on the back, but the wire gets in the way on the front. Looks like the HB CP2 holder should also work, I'll have to start putting together my next order.

#3628 mem Dec 18, 2006 01:31 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_box l That CP2 holder works great for LiPos on the FP.

#3629 taylorcraft078 Dec 18, 2006 01:39 AM

I finally got mine in the air yesterday. XHeli sent me the parts and no copter in the box. It took 3 calls to get a human and about 2 minutes to get it straightened out. The picture of the box and a reminder that the shipping weight was 1 pound probably helped. It came Thursday and I had Friday off. The dishwasher expired on Thursday afternoon and the back up dishwasher was not happy so I got to work on that Friday. I also did a spin up to make sure it worked and then tossed the motor in some water for a break in. I also added fuses while I had it apart. Saturday I got to try it in the driveway. It seemed strange to have the tail spin up when I moved it back onto the driveway. The first few attempts resulted in severe shaking on takeoff. The fear fell off and the battery fell out. I switched to my painted blades (balanced) and left them sloppy loose. Things smoothed out real fast. I think that the lag was wrong with them at the factory tightness. I can almost hover this thing - it has been maybe 15 years since the last hover. One ball broke off the blade holder but I flew it a few more times. I quit when the tail stopped turning. There was a chunk of string wrapped in it pushing the gears out of mesh. Then I got to go buy a new dishwasher. Installation today resulted in much colorful language and no flying time :-(. The ball is glued back on and there are thread wraps on both sides. I will be hitting burger king for a straw to run the antenna in. I still need to make a head stiffener and adjust the motor timing. Dave

#3630 midieval10 Dec 18, 2006 01:59 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

Well, I decided to just try different blades for the heck of it. I ordered extra esky blades from Raidentech but they sent me Walkera #4 ones! However, the Walkera blades look like they are better quality than ones on the stock esky heli. I tried to liftoff again and it actually flies higher than 2 feet without the red light coming on! Hooray! How much throttle do you guys put in to get it to lift off? What's the proper way to track and adjust the blades? How tight should the blades be? I have them really loose right now like on my esky Lama but I'm not sure if it's the same with this heli. Thanks everyone.

#3631 black_box Dec 18, 2006 02:08 AM someone else suggested having them tight enough to stay in place by themselves when the heli is held sideways, but loose enough that if you shake it, they'll move. I may be having liftoff problems as well. Maybe i'll set up my spare parts and swap the rotor head to see if it helps.

#3632 TooTall Dec 18, 2006 02:32 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L No need to break in the tail motor ...just the main ....and that really isn't nescessary ,,run it easy like a new set of lipo's and then spray it out with Power Shot , electric motor spray...Tom

#3633 terencechan Dec 18, 2006 04:12 AM

Finding the correct BL combo

Quote: Originally Posted by Tweekster L

Hi Tweekster, I have tried the Himax 3600kv with 12T & 3S combo. The motor gets burning hot in minutes. Now I've the Himax 4100kv with 12T & 2S combo, pretty good flight time of 15mins with the 1320mah TP 2S. Last night, there was a heavy downpour and after the rain, I tried doing FFF in strong winds up to 15. I have to pump 7/8 throttle to fight the strong wind and that triggers the CC10's low voltage/ full throttle indicator. :mad: I'm going for the Himax 4300kv with 10T tonight. :D Without the Park adapter plate, simply bolt it using nuts inbetween the hb frame and the bl motor. It works very well with the stock screws and basically this setup is non-slip even when the BL motor gets really hot.

#3634 corwyn Dec 18, 2006 04:13 AM

I was just looking back over the brushless motor discussion from early this afternoon, and I noticed that Andy's 4-in-1 main motor connector doesn't have anything connected to it. I shouldn't be asking (because I really need to learn to fly this thing before I mod it), but out of curiosity, where do you hook up the ESC?

#3635 terencechan Dec 18, 2006 04:31 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

Hehe, that's a good question actually. If you are using Esky or E-flite 4-in-1 unit, you can hack it to have pure Channel 3 for connecting to your BL ESC. The reason why E-sky or E-flite: is because the 4-in-1 unit consists of 2 PCB boards. 1 board has the motor outputs right? Put this aside, you should be working on the other board which is in fact a receiver. You should be able to see pins (Channel 1 & channel 2) for your servos. Directly below the Channel 2 pins, you should be able to see 3 soldered points. These are the 3 points where we tap our channel 3 or throttle channel. Simply soldered your ESC link (black, red, orange) to these points, with the correct polarity of course. We can look at the servo pins for reference. ;) Also you need to splice the power coming from your Lipo to your BL ESC, some prefered to use a Y cable while others simply soldered the BL ESC power cables to the power points of the 4-in-1 unit. :) That's what we normally called "A brushless hacK", there you go, everything in a nutshell. :D -Terence

#3636 kryptoniteRxn Dec 18, 2006 04:58 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

Step aside Sir, you DONT want me braggin abt my T-rex heli. It's got so much silver bling from head to tail that'll put you into a seizure if u look at it. JK, nice set up, wish they had these similar upgrades for Honey Bee FP as well, stock looks rather boring with plain, medium, dead, dry, black plastic parts, lol.

#3637 corwyn Dec 18, 2006 05:00 AM

Ah, that makes sense (or as much as possible without actually opening up the case). I'm assuming that you only temporarily put aside the 2nd board, because you still need it for channel 4 (rudder) control, right? Is there any point (I'm assuming that it's possible) to going brushless on the tail motor, as well? Then, if you add a separate gyro, you can get rid of the 2nd board entirely, right? Also...looking at the case of the 4-in-1, I also noticed that there are sets of pins for channels 5&6, as well as for "batt" (IIRC). So this 4-in-1 comes with a 6-channel receiver? And what does the "batt" connector do? Thanks!

#3638 kryptoniteRxn Dec 18, 2006 05:14 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn L

D##N, you are smart, i didn't notice that, i been unscrewing all four screws on the main gear to take it apart.....AND im supposed to be a college dude.

#3639 corwyn Dec 18, 2006 05:25 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by kryptoniteRxn L

I can't take credit for that. If you look back in this thread a few days (so like 1.2 million posts ago), somebody else told me how :)

#3640 Tweekster Dec 18, 2006 05:58 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by terencechan L

Thanks Terence, Looks like a 4100KV/10t or a 4500KV/9t may be the ticket for me. I need to tach the thing and see where I'm at. It takes 3/4 stick on a fresh 2S to hover 3-4 feet with the stock setup I didnt see a Himax 4300 in the 2015 series? I saw a 4200KV in the 2025 series?

#3641 PeterVRC Dec 18, 2006 06:14 AM

I have the Himax 2015-4100 with 10T (stock pinion) and it all runs nice. With a Thunderbird 9A ESC. 1000 (65g) and 850Mah (47g) Lipos - I use whichever I feel like at the time, but the 1000 give the best flights really. Hardly any heat at all from the motor, and none at all from the ESC. Far less interference effects, though still some from wherever when at range (70 - 100ft onwards approx). I don't think any is coming from the motor or the heli itself etc as it all runs rock solid until that further out range. The aerial runs down a straw, from the 4in1 along the body, passing under main gear, and some tape to keep the straw parallel to the boom until the straw runs out. Then the rest of the aerial is stretched out and around the vertical fin and then back down the straw to the front again. It is very easy to switch to brushless and I think it was the best upgrade I have done. With the stock brushed motor I was getting heaps of glitching even in nearby hovering. Well intermittent - sometimes heaps, sometimes little or none. But now none at all ever when nearby. My next 'upgrade' is to get a Futuba TX running with it and hopefully having more strength to improve longer range situations - plus programmability advantages.

#3642 JustPlaneChris Dec 18, 2006 06:18 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Tweekster L They are more than decent! I read some test results by a non-biased tester and they are among the most efficient inrunners you can buy! My own results with the -130 in my CP2 and Hornet confirms... very efficient motors. I bought an adapter, but it turns out it isn't needed. It has two sets of mounting holes, and one pair of them lines up with the frame holes. EDIT: I see you are considering a Himax... I would still recommend the ARC over the Himax. It will run cooler, and it's much lighter! 29g... I don't think you can beat that with a Himax. -Chris

#3643 kryptoniteRxn Dec 18, 2006 07:03 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by corwyn l yeah, waaaaaaaaay too many threads to stay on top of. i tried reading the whole thrd when it had 321 pages, got the first 4 days down but the pages jumped to 335, so i gave up and use the search option instead.