WELCOME TO GORLICE COUNTY © Wydawnictwo PROMO Dear Readers, The publication commissioned by I wish to invite you to the beautiful and hospitable Gorlice County located in County Head Office in Gorlice south-eastern Poland. It is a perfect place for active recreation, offering you an opportunity to experience the natural beauty of the Beskid Niski as well as the multiculturality, richness and historical diversity of our region. In the past, Bishop Karol Wojtyła – the Polish pope St. John Paul II – traversed this land on foot with young people. Participants of the 06 World Youth Days Editing: Wydawnictwo PROMO as well as many pilgrims and wayfarers continue to follow in his footsteps across the Land of Gorlice. I would like to recommend the Wooden Architecture Route, abundant in Proofreading: Catholic and Orthodox churches with as many as five entered on the UNSECO Maciej Malinowski World Heritage List. Feel invited to come and trek along the Trail of First World War Cemeteries where soldiers of many nationalities rest in peace and the Petro- Translation: leum Trail featuring the world’s first oil rigs and a place in Gorlice where Ignacy Mikołaj Sekrecki Łukasiewicz lit up the world’s first kerosene streetlamp. Be sure to visit the royal town of Biecz, with a hospital funded by Saint Queen Jadwiga and Bobowa with strong Hasidic ties. Feel invited to use the well-being facilities available in our Photography: Paweł Kutaś, health resorts Wysowa Zdrój and Wapienne as well as the lake in Klimkówka and Archive of the Culture and Promotion Centre of Bobowa Municipality (p. 6-7), the Hucul Stud Farm in Regietów. Piotr Gajda (p. 13), Adam Harkawy (p. 4, 5, 23), Gorlice County awaits you! Michał Kaniuk (p. 21), Wojciech Kurcab (p. 5), Jacek Pięta (p. 5), Andrzej Pochopień (p. 5, 23) Design, prepress and print: Wydawnictwo PROMO Head of Gorlice County Zakrzów 46, 32-00 Podłęże tel. +48 12 5 00 99, +48 50 4 13 54, e-mail: [email protected] Karol Górski ISBN 978-8-6094-95-9 Three cultures 1 2 As Gorlice County had been inhabited by various ethnic and national groups for centuries, it can boast an impressively rich culture today. The northern part of the county was dominat- ed by Poles who developed Pogorzan culture while the mountainous areas saw Vlach and later Vlach and Ruthenian settlement. The latter inhabitants developed Lemko culture. In the eight- eenth century, Jews appeared in the area of today’s county, settling mainly in towns (Bobowa, Gorlice, Biecz), but also villages. Both material and spirituals cultures of the locals (particularly those of Lemkos and Pogor- zans) coexisted in harmony despite many differences resulting from the tradition and faith, or different living conditions. Pogorzans and Lemkos developed different architectural styles. A typical Pogorzan house- hold would comprise a few structures: a house, a barn and a cellar, while Lemkos used to build a single extensive structure under a shared roof, comprising residential and farm functions. Traditional Pogorzan architecture can be seen in the open-air folk museum in Szymbark (e.g. a cabin from Siary with a roof hole as a smoke outlet ). As for traditional Lemko houses, some can still be seen in villages (e.g. Bartne). Lemko churches can be found in a number of places: Kwiatoń, Hańczowa, Bartne, Gładyszów, Łosie , or Uście Gorlickie. Pogorzan and Lemko peasants were mainly farmers and breeders. Craftsmanship also de- veloped in many villages, such as Łużna and Sękowa, known for weaving, while the Lemko vil- 3 4 lages of Małastów, Przegonina, and primarily Bartne, were known for stone-masonry , with the raw material provided by the quarries on Magurycz and Magura Wątkowska. Wooden objects, mainly spoons, were the domain of those living in Nowica, Leszczyny and Przysłup . Local Jews focused on trade, banking as well as operating craftsmanship and manufactur- ing workshops. They were also owners of many inns. The coexistence of the three cultures came to an end as the Second World War started, whipping out the Jewish population. In 947, Lemkos met their tragic fate and were resettled to the so-called Regained Territories. Some of them returned to their places of origin after 956. The traces of the Jewish community are mainly cemeteries, in Gorlice, Biecz or Bobowa . The last village also has a renovated synagogue accessible to visitors. Thousands of Lemkos and fans of their culture meet every July for the Festival of Lemko Culture in Zdynia, an event tak- ing several days and staged by the Lemko Association. The tradition and culture of Gorlice County can be also appreciated at numerous events organised by the County Head Office and municipal offices of individual communes. 4 5 5 6 Town of Gorlice, county capital 1 2 The beginnings of the town on the Ropa River date back to the mid-1300s and are linked to Dersław Karwacjan. In 47, King Władysław Jagiełło granted Magdeburg rights to Gorlice and the town soon became a dynamic centre of commerce, mainly due to its favourable location on a trade route towards Hungary. Alongside trade, craftsmanship was also enjoying vibrant development in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries with tailors, shoemakers, linen drapers, smiths, coopers, bak- ers, and butchers operating here. In the latter half of the seventeenth century, that development was interrupted by the Swedish Deluge when the town was destroyed by the troops of the Transylvani- an duke George Rákóczi. A true “industrial revolution” came about in the second half of the 800s thanks to developing mining and oil processing. The oil boom lasted until the First World War. In May 95 he town was completely destroyed. Today, Gorlice has a population of 0,000 and is the economic, administrative and cultural cen- tre of the county. The town boasts numerous historical monuments and is also a vital hub for tourist trails, like those leading to Magura Wątkowska and Magura Małastowska. History lovers will want to visit the Regional Museum of the PTTK (Polish Tourist and Sight- seeing Society), featuring a wealth of exhibits related to the history of the petroleum industry as well as the region’s ethnography and culture. There is a separate section devoted to the First World War. The most interesting historical monuments are to be found near the market square. The Lesser 3 4 Basilica of the Birth of the Blessed Virgin Mary was erected in 875-89. The structure stuns the visitor with its entrance facade featuring half-pillars between which stand statutes of the Evangelists. Close to the church is the Karwacjan Manor, housing the Museum of the Karwacjan and Gładysz Manors . The building was beautifully restored in the late twentieth century and today sports charming light facades, uncovered fragments of stone and brick walls and above all its tall tiered roof covered with brick-red tiles. Fans of the petroleum industry should visit the town-hall , which in the mid-9th century housed a pharmacy where Ignacy Łukasiewicz was experimenting with oil distillation. He is re- membered on the portal in the hall. At the corner of Węgierska St, where the world`s first kerosene street lamp was lit up in 854, stands a shrine with the Pensive Christ. Also worth a visit is the open- air petroleum museum at Lipowa St called Magdalena. The town has several cemeteries from the First World War, including one at Góra Cmentarna (Cemetery Mount) , where more than 800 soldiers rest in peace. Municipal sports and leisure facilities are managed by the Sports and Recreation Centre and include indoor and outdoor swimming pools and a sports pitch. 6 5 7 6 Beauty enchanted in wood 1 2 Travelling across Gorlice County, one comes across many monuments of wooden ar- chitecture: Orthodox and Catholic churches, chapels and belfries which have become a permanent feature of the landscape in the Beskid Niski and Pogórze. One characteristic feature of the landscape is Greek-Catholic and Orthodox church- es – in the spring and summer their large bulbous domes and brown walls are well seen from the distance, setting them clearly apart from the green fields. Typically, the churches of the Beskid Niski are tripartite, comprising a chancel, a nave and a porch above which rises a tower. All the church sections are covered with tall, sometimes mul- ti-tiered roofs crowned with cupolas. The main interior item is the iconostasis, or a wall with a few rows of icons mounted on it, frequently with wood-carving decoration. The oldest churches, like the ones in Owczary and Kwiatoń, date back to as early as the 600s. Beautiful examples of church architecture also include those in Łosie, Bartne, Skwirtne, Konieczna, Hańczowa , Czarna and Gładyszow , the last one built on a Greek cross plan. Roman-Catholic churches can be found mainly in the north of the county, the oldest and most beautiful being those in Binarowa and Sękowa. They were both erected in the early 500s and originally comprised two sections (nave and chancel) sharing a shingled 3 4 roof. Later towers were added to them or sometimes characteristic arcades called sobots to protect the church walls against humidity. Different are the much later 8-th century churches in Szalowa, Szymbark or Rożnowice. They are baroque structures following the trends commonly applied in ma- sonry constructions of the time. On the outside, this mainly means extensive double-tow- er facades, bulbous domes (Szalowa ), terminations with volute-like adornments (Szym- bark ), as well as interior decorations, e.g. illusionistic paintings. Gorlice County also boasts a glorious hexagonal cemetery chapel of the seventeenth century in Moszczenica and a church bell-tower in Pętna from the first half of the 800s.