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Meknes SPAIN

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

Saïdia

ATLANTIC OCEAN

5 Editorial Zagora 6 in history 8 In the heart of the imperial city CANARY ISLANDS 10 In the streets of the Medina 12 Only in Meknes... 16 Meknassi art 17 Living in Meknes 18 Meknes in a new light 20 A look around the region 22 Meknes the bountiful, a source of life 24 The fascination of the desert MAURITANIA 26 Information and useful addresses 4 5

Editorial

Meknes Moulay Ismail’s city, whose beauty is only equalled by the glory of its history, has been blessed by nature with a geographical setting of extraordinary diversity. An obligatory point of passage between the Atlantic plains and the high plateaus of the region, and between the North and the foothills of the Mountains, Meknes has made the utmost of the breath-taking natural contrasts that surround it.

A Moroccan imperial city with a medina listed as a World Heritage site, Meknes casts a spell over all who visit it. A stay within its walls is an experience never to be forgotten, leaving memories of historical grandeur, good living, and true authenticity.

Meknes is a treasure house of imposing ramparts and magnificent palaces, of mosques and medersas, of and museums, of lush green gardens and shimmering pools Moulay Idriss a masterpiece of architectural splendour and a paradise for all those who love history.

The Meknes region is the Kingdom’s orchard, famed for the succulent varieties of fruit it produces, while its fertile soil nurtures the very finest vineyards and olive groves. But it is also a land of mountains and mineral springs, of forests of cedar trees and green oaks.

Setting off in discovery of Meknes and its many riches is an adventure without parallel, whisking you away to other worlds and other times.

Bab El Mansour 6 7

Meknes in history

Meknes, Imperial City Meknes was founded in the 10th Meknes took its rightful place as century by the Maknassa Zenetes, one of the greatest of imperial ci- a tribe native to the Oriental re- ties. Under Moulay Ismail it was gion who came to settle in the area, to rise to unprecedented glory. drawn by its fertile soil and plentiful water, and by the charm of its gar- The first palace built, Dar el Kbi- dens. Conquered by the Almoravids, ra, encompasses two mosques and it was first of all a military outpost over twenty pavilions, while Dar el- (11th century), before expanding presents visitors with a su- under the Almohad dynasty (12th perb perspective of arcades open to century) and further developing in the sky above. The Moulay Ismail the following century under the rule Mausoleum is altogether worthy of The royal stables, built of the Merinids. By the dawn of the the ’s grandeur, with its suc- in the era of Moulay 17th century, Meknes had become a cession of richly worked rooms, its Ismail prosperous city. courtyard decorated with dazzling , and its sculpted doorways, It was not, however, until the late intricate marble fountains, cedar 17th century and the coming of wood ceilings and floors strewn the second Alaouite sultan that with sumptuous carpets…

Inside the Moulay Ismail Mausoleum 8 9

In the heart of the imperial city

Meknes the Magnificent Today, Bab Mansour inner that earned the place its name “Dar lies at rest surrounded by members Separated by Oued Boufekrane, room houses an art gallery. El Ma” (water house). of his family. two worlds eye one another dis- From the building’s terrace, which dainfully across the river, em- Bab Berdaine, played a major has been laid out as a garden, there Not far away is the Ambassadors’ bodying the history of Meknes. role in the city’s economy, being are unrestricted views over the Pavilion, where Moulay Ismail Bab Mansour and Bab Berdaine not only the city’s centre for trade Agdal Basin and the whole of the received foreign delegations. The – gateways that open on to untold but also for diplomatic dealings imperial city. The edifice has been building is perfectly preserved, wonders and make Meknes “the with the north and therefore with used as a location in the making of and its , sculpted stuccowork capital of grand gateways”. foreign lands, and it is hardly sur- such international films as “The and roof of glazed green bear prising that Moulay Ismail provided Last Temptation of Christ” and ample witness to the skills of the Bab Mansour, “the magnifi- this entrance to the medina with a “Jesus of Nazareth”. craftsmen of the time. cent” description given by Pierre gateway worthy of a royal residence. Loti requires no commentary: «Ro- The Agdal Basin, a gigantic The Qara prison or the Under- settes, stars, intertwinings that know The great mosques that enrich the reservoir, irrigated the harem and ground Silos. This subterranean no end, broken lines, unimaginable city’s cultural heritage have deser- the gardens. With a full 4 hectares building was most probably created geometric combinations that throw vedly led to its other nickname, of surface area and supplied by se- and used for storing grain. A per- the eyes off track like so many brain- “city of a hundred ”. veral kilometres of underground sisting legend, however, pictures teasers but which never fail to bear pipes, it was a major source of it as a gigantic prison, the work witness to a most original and me- Heri Souani dates from the days drinking water. of a Portuguese captive to whom ticulous sense of taste, have all been of Moulay Ismaïl, and has wrongly Moulay Ismail had promised his brought into play here, with myriads been referred to as the sultan’s “gra- The Moulay Ismail Mausoleum, freedom if he managed to build a of tiny pieces of glazed terracotta, so- nary” or “stables”. Legend has it that was built in 1703 and is one of the gaol that would accommodate up to metimes concave sometimes in relief, the building stabled up to 12,000 few religious monuments open to 40,000 people. It is reached by way Minaret of the Medersa so as to give from afar the illusion of horses. Of colossal proportions, it is non-Muslims. A series of patios of a stairway of irregular steps going Bou Inania a brocaded and re-brocaded fabric, made up of 23 naves supported by The gateway to the leads to an ablutions courtyard down into the ground, leading to a shimmering, dazzling, beyond price, pillars and arches. It was also used to Moulay Ismail Mau- surrounded by a colonnade. vast vaulted area dimly lit by small that has been draped over these an- store foodstuffs, with 10 rooms and soleum, decorated with The mausoleum room is divided openings cut into the ceiling. Only cient stones to break the monotony of wells equipped with water wheels. sculpted stones and into two parts, one sacred the some of the rooms are open to the the towering ramparts». The wells served to supply the buil- topped with green tiles other secular. On the right are the public. The original underground ding and the pool, a large reservoir royal tombs, where Moulay Ismail galleries were some 7 km in length.

The Agdal Basin 10 11

In the streets of the Medina

Edifices that defy the passing by a covered food market crammed of time… with stalls selling olives, preserved le- The city ramparts are almost 40 mons, spices, mint, and an endless km long, and are punctuated by variety of other local produce. fortified gateways, towers and bas- tions (Bab Lekhmis, Bab Bardaïne, Dar Jamai Bab Al-Mansour, Bab M’Rah, Bab This harmoniously designed His- Rih, Bab Jamaa Nouar, and Bordj pano-Moorish style palace stands Ben Kari, to name but a few). At around a superb Andalusian garden first sight, the medina looks like a and is a perfect example of the kind near impenetrable fortress. Meknes of residences built for wealthy Mo- is always full of surprises! Here, the roccan families in the late 19th cen- gateways are works of art and the tury. Located on the edge of Al-He- souks an invitation to wander a pic- dim square and the medina, it now turesque world all of its own. houses the regional museum of eth- Al-Hedim square nography, where collections of gold- Al-Hedim square, a vast esplanade thread embroidery work, antique leading visitors to the souks, is the earthenware and jewellery provide departure point for exploring the visitors with an exhaustive survey of medina. Its south side is bordered the Kingdom’s past splendours.

Rue Nejjarine provides access to name to the edifice. This architec- most of the souks, which are of- tural masterpiece was built in full ten roofed with climbing vines or compliance with classical Koranic- reeds. school layout – a central courtyard with basin, surrounded by a gallery The craftspeople, who were mostly and a prayer room. The courtyard grouped together by activity in the walls, adorned with zellij, sculpted fondouks in bygone days, ply their stuccowork and magnificent cedar trade in the little workshops lining wood carvings, are a marvellous the streets, which are as a-bustle example of Moorish decoration. with activity as they ever were.

Medersa Bou Inania was built by the Merinid sultan Abou El Has- san and completed by his son Abou Inan (1350-1358), who gave his Medersa Bou Inania 12 13

Only in Meknes...

The mausoleum of Sidi Mo- hamed Ben Aissa (Cheikh El Kamel) Born in 1465, he was head of the is the “hadra”. This is a collective Aissaoua brotherhood. He travelled entering into a state of trance, pre- , preaching the Muslim ceded by religious chanting. It lasts faith, and was famed throughout all night long and is an essential North as well as further feature of Aissaoua festivals. afield. His mausoleum is located at Bab Siba and was built in 1776 by Meknes by night Sultan Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdel- As night falls, El-Hedim square lah. His followers hold an annual and its market become the stage moussem around the time of Mou- for street-vendors, acrobats, sto- loud (the Prophet’s birthday). rytellers and fire-eaters. Every evening, a folk culture untouched The “hadra” is practised The Aissaoua “hadra” by time is reborn and the great The city at nightfall by the Aissaoua brothe- One of the fundamental practices esplanade is the busiest place in rhood of this religious brotherhood, which Meknes, swarming with locals and was founded in the 16th century, visitors alike…

Louis XIV’s clocks Paying tribute to the passing of time and the history of Meknes, two superb examples of the clockmaker’s art continue to tick off the days! They were sent by King Louis XIV of France as a gift to Sultan Moulay Ismaïl, to mark the importance of the diplomatic relations between the two monarchs.

It was in the year 1699 that the renowned ambassador Ben Aicha travelled to Versailles to discuss a political alliance and returned home overcome by the luxury of the French court – and by the beauty of the Sun King’s daughter, Anne-Marie de Bourbon. Back in Meknes, he eulogised the French princess to such an extent that the sultan ended up by asking for her hand in marriage. Fearing competition from the dozens of other “queens” in the royal household, the princess turned down his proposal. Louis XIV palliated her refusal by sending him the Sidi Mohamed Ben Aissa Mausoleum two magnificent clocks that now hold majestic sway in the mausoleum where Moulay Ismail lies buried. 14 15

Bab El Mansour 16 17

Meknassi art Living in Meknes

Craftwork Local produce More than 50,000 craftspeople have much to be thankful for, The Meknes-Tafilalet region has The project underway for the plan- live and work in Meknes and its given the abundance and variety more than enough resources to ting of 1000 hectares of olive trees in region, perpetuating age-old skills of trees to be had in the region’s count on to consider itself an eco- the region, as part of an overall sus- and know-how. The city has an forests (cedar and thuja, among tourism destination without parallel. tainable development plan, will make authentic style all its own in such other species). Known as “Morocco’s water tower”, Meknes the Kingdom’s olive capital. arts as carved and painted wood- Meknassi embroidery is famed for and boasting extensive forest, pasture work, weaving (carpets, hanbel its tight cross-stitching applied and farmland, Meknes has made the Olive oil from the Meknes region rugs, embroidery, etc.), wrought over very extensive surfaces. utmost of its terroir, whose products is gaining recognition as some of and damascened iron, and leathe- are sought after throughout the the very finest produced anywhere. rwork (fine leather goods, book- A rich and varied musical Kingdom and beyond. Extra-virgin at international level: binding and babouches). tradition the ninth (2009) edition of the Ita- “Malhoun” is Meknes’ favourite Renowned for its olive oil, wines lian “Extravergine” guide awarded its Meknes is the only place in Mo- music. According to historians, and dates, and well as for horse- first prize to Morocco for the quality rocco where damascening is prac- this particular form dates back to breeding and trout farming, of its olive oil. The prize is awarded Damascening is an tised – a delicate art consisting the 12th century, and has been Orange blossom Meknes is a treasure house for each year to an international player art only to be found in influenced over the passing years tourists looking for something dif- in the olive farming sector. Meknes of inlaying metal with smooth or twisted gold, silver or copper wire by the rhythms of Andalusian ferent in their travels. - while Meknassi cabinetmakers music and popular song. In 2006 in Rome, Meknes region The Meknes region is blessed olive oil carried off the prize for the with soil ideal for the cultivation Best Extra-virgin Olive Oil of the of olive trees, a climate to match, Year, awarded by the Italian “Extra- and, above all, an age-old olive- vergine – 2006” guide to the “best growing tradition coupled with all certified quality olive oils in the the consequent expertise. world” of the Guide Cuisine & Vini. 18 19

Meknes in a new light

Golf: an imperial course A priceless jewel in a luxuriant History hangs in the air at the green setting Royal Golf Club in Sultan Moulay With its age-old forests, its lakes, and Ismail’s imperial city of Meknes. its inexhaustible springs of crystal-clear The murmur of the water, Meknes is a joy whatever the fountain and the venerable walls season, adorning itself in fresh colours surrounding its clubhouse, with the with every month that passes, to the medina rooftops and minarets on delight of all those who seek to experience the horizon, are just a few of the nature in all its variety and glory. club’s many charms. In the garden, the air is heady with the mingled On horseback scents of orange, plum, palm and Majestic Meknes, City of Kings, olive trees. Created in 1969, the boasts one of the country’s finest Fields of olive trees club and its 9-hole course are open stud farms. Located on the day and night all year round. road, it was set up in 1914 and is open to visitors. Some 150 stallions are kept there – Arab thoroughbreds, barbs and Arab-barbs, breeds much sought after by riding enthusiasts.

Meknes Royal Golf Club

Arab thoroughbreds 20 21

A look around the Region

Moulay Idriss Zerhoun Twenty or so kilometres north Located in the foothills of the of Meknes, set on a rocky peak Zerhoun Massif, Volubilis takes overlooking the Oued Erroumane its name from the Berber word Valley and the plain upon which , the name for the colourful the Ancient Romans built their flower of the convolvulus, a plant city of Volubilis, the quiet little to be found in abundance in the town of Moulay Idriss harbours the region. Included on the UNESCO mausoleum of the founder of the World Heritage list in 1997, Idrissid dynasty, who travelled from Volubilis is Morocco’s largest Arabia to convert the local Berber archaeological site, with a full 18 peoples to the Muslim faith, and hectares open to the public. The who continues to draw thousands site owes its fame to the countless A mosaic in Volubilis of pilgrims to his resting place every mosaics that decorate its ancient year in the month of August. dwellings.

The triumphal arch, Volubilis

Moulay Idriss Zerhoun 22 23

Meknes the bountiful, a source of life

Nature has bestowed many blessings on the Middle Atlas The town of El Hajeb is cut in two Mountains, endowing them with by a line of cliffs that cross it from breath-taking landscapes and northeast to southwest, and from the a plenitude of flora and fauna. top of which there are unrestricted Vast cedar forests stretch as far panoramuic views of the Saiss Plain. as the eye can see, interspersed Troglodyte dwellings have been cut with lush green valleys, lakes and into the foot of the cliffs, in the springs. Lovers of sports and wide oldest parts of the town near the open spaces are spoiled for choice covered market. There are numerous between ramble s on foot or on drinking-water springs in the region, horseback, trekking, mountain- some of which flow in the very heart bike or 4-wheel-drive excursions, of the town and in the midst of the and river fishing. pleasant public garden running up to Cedar forests in the snow the cliff. The region is also renowned , pearl of the Middle Atlas Morocco’s longest river, the Oum for its caves. The entrance to one of Er-Rbia has its source 40 km them is clearly visible from the road, from , and flows through and resembles the open mouth of a the midst of the mountains, lion. The El Hajeb cliffs make a great whose lower slopes are studded setting for an invigorating ramble in with villages of typically Berber the open air. architecture. Ifrane Located at 1650 metres above sea neighbouring resorts of Michlifen level, Ifrane has been nicknamed the (2036m) and Jbel Hebri (2104m), “Switzerland of Morocco”, due to respectively located 17 and 27 km the European style of its buildings south of Ifrane. (stone chalets with sloping red-tiled roofs). A mountain town with wide, Azrou tree-lined streets, Ifrane gives visitors The town of Azrou is home to a the impression that they are wande- craftwork centre famed for the wor- ring through a Savoyard landscape. king of cedar wood and the weaving Anyone with a liking for rambling, of Bni-M’gild tribal carpets. You trout fishing, or red partridge or can also pay a visit to the wild boar hunting will find much (fortress), which was built during to enjoy in the calm and beauty of the reign of Moulay Ismail. The the surrounding countryside, while town is also known for salmon trout skiers can practise their art to their farming, the produce of which can heart’s content on the slopes of the be enjoyed fresh or smoked. The town of Azrou 24 25

The fascination of the desert

The Tafilalet region To the traveller coming from the tury, at the crossroads of the great north, crossing the Tizi’n’Ta- caravan roads to the Dades and lrhemt (“she-camel pass”) at 2900 Tafilalet. Here, the treasures of an metres above sea level is like cros- age-old civilisation await your dis- sing a threshold. You find your- covery, along with the inexhaus- self in a new world altogether - a tible riches bestowed by a bounti- world of oases and desert. Cut off ful mother nature. between the and the High Atlas, this vast region has given Erfoud, city of palm trees birth to the Tafilalet, a region of Erfoud is one of Morocco’s largest stark contrast between the brilliant oases, watered by Oued Ziz and greenery of the oases scattered Oued Rehris, and is the undisputed along the valleys and the immen- “City of Palm Trees”, with almost A girl from the South sity of mountains and plateaus de- a million of them growing in the The Merzouga sand dunes in traditional dress void of plant life. region. All Mediterranean civilisa- tions have venerated the palm tree, which symbolises the tree of life, Heir to a rich and turbulent era in fertility and success. King Solomon the country’s history, Errachidia taught that the palm tree, so rich in was built in the early 20th cen- nutrition, was a gift from God. The Merzouga Dunes The Merzouga sand dunes are an the ancient city of Sijlmassa, capi- altogether out-of-the-ordinary expe- tal of the Tafilalet region and cradle rience – nature in all its stark gran- of the Alaouite . For eleven diosity! Desert as far as the eye can centuries, it was the final stop-off see! The traveller is lost in wonder for caravans coming from the south. before the ever-changing colours and The town harbours the mausoleum extraordinary fineness of the sand. of Moulay Ali Cherif, founder of There are a few little oases in the the . Behind it lie heart of the dunes, where water will the ruins of Ksar Abbar, built in the flow if you only dig a little... 17th century by Moulay Ismail as a residence for his sons. Rissani, birthplace of the Alaouite dynasty Located at the southern end of the Ziz Valley, the town of Rissani is The Ziz Valley The town of Rissani 26 27

Information and useful addresses

Practical information Useful adresses and contacts Entry formalities: Regional Tourist Office: A valid passport for a stay of less than 27, Place Administrative - Meknès 90 days is required. An identity card Tél: 05 35 52 44 26 / 05 35 51 60 22 may suffice, depending on country of Fax: 05 35 51 60 46 origin, if the trip is organised by a travel agency for a group of over 8 people. A Regional Tourist Office: visa is required for some nationalities 44, Bd Prince My Abdellah. – enquire at a Moroccan consulate BP550 Errachidia or diplomatic representation in your Tél: 05 35 57 09 44 / 05 24 62 24 96 country. No specific vaccinations are Fax: 05 35 57 09 43 / 05 24 62 45 53 required for entry into the Kingdom of Morocco. If you are bringing your pet Regional Tourist Office: along with you, however, you will need Place du Syndicat. BP 15 Ifrane to be able to produce an anti-rabies Tél: 05 35 56 68 21 certificate less than 6 months old. Fax: 05 35 56 68 22

Changing money: Regional Tourism Council: Moroccan currency is the dirham, made Complexe artisanal - Zine Al Abidine up of 100 centimes. Foreign currency Tél: 05 35 53 17 33 must be exchanged at banks or other Fax: 05 35 55 68 80 accredited establishments. ONCF Railway station: Time zone: 08 90 20 30 40 Morocco is in the Greenwich time zone, and time is G.M.T. Airport: 08 90 00 08 00

Event Calendar: Golf: Royal Golf Club Septembre : www.royalgolfMeknès.com • “Cimes d’Imilchil” Music Festival - Imilchil Weather forecast: www.meteoma.net • International Desert Music Festival - Errachidia Office des Changes • Moussem Moulay Idriss Zerhoune (Currency regulation authority) : www.oc.gov.ma Mouloud: Meknes medina, a Moussem El Hadi Ben Aissa Emergency phone numbers: World Heritage site Police 19 Fire Brigade 150 Directory enquiries 160 Craftwork Art gallery Mosque Road safety services 177 Bab (Gateway) Bus station Museum Cinema Golf club Palace

Church Mausoleum Synagogue

Green space Medersa Tourism For further information: www.visitmorocco.com Circular boulevard Moroccan National Tourist Office www.visitmorocco.com