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The Book 1 The Book 2 t h e w e d d i n g d r e s s b o o k - f i n d i n g t h e p e r f e c t l o o k

Written and illustrated by Iida Silvennoinen

Published by Heili Bridal

The Wedding dress Book 2 The Wedding dress Book 3 First published by Heili Bridal 2018 Heili Bridal Finland www.heilibridal.com

©heilibridal ©Illustrations: IIda Silvennoinen

All rights reserved. No part of this publications may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without written permission of the publishers.

Design: Heili Bridal Editor: Janina Silvennoinen Illustrations by Iida Silvennoinen

Heili Bridal wedding , and artesan headpieces from Finland The Wedding dress Book 5 The Wedding dress Book 6 C o n t e n t s

A b o u t 9

Planning and Dreaming 11

Imagine your dream dress 11

Dress silhouettes 13

What is your wedding dress made of? 23

Dress Shopping 29

You have so many options 29

How the dress is made 30

The magic starts with the underwear 33

New , new you 35

Shopping is easy with a good mood 37

You will get help and information 38

How tight is tight enough? 39

B u d g e t 4 3

Having a budget assures the dress bliss 43

How to stay in budget 44

Hidden costs 45

Getting a dress with a mini budget 46

The Wedding dress Book 6 The Wedding dress Book 7 Before The Wedding 51

Storing: Give the dress enough space to hang 51

Keep your dress clean 53

Wrinkles can be treated at home 54

Keeping the armpit stains away 57

On your wedding day 59

Get help for dressing 59

Last minute fixes 61

Keep calm no matter what 62

Dirt and stains are not end of the world 62

Move like a queen 66

Afterwards 69

Do at least this 69

The ruin of a dress 69

Saving the memories by keeping the dress 70

Get up to 50% off by reselling your dress 71

Make the dress into something new 73

Closing words 77

The Wedding dress Book 8 A b o u t

Congratulations, you are getting married!

I imagine that you are soon going to shop for your wedding dress. Maybe you have started already. Anyway, you have made a great choice to read this book.

The wedding dress is often a very important and a long dreamed gar- ment. It can be the first full length you shop and usually it is also quite expensive. The dress also has a special meaning as it is what you wear when you start a new chapter in your life. Oh dear, it’s also such a pretty garment! When I was a little girl a used to dream about big wed- ding dresses and to be honest, I’ve never stopped. Do you know the feel- ing?

So why do you absolutely need to read this book? I have gathered all my knowledge about wedding dresses starting from shopping and ending to the married life. I go through different dress styles, materials and fabrics, how to store and care for your beautiful dress before the wedding, and also what to do after the big day is over. In this book I tell you how to save time, money and effort with you dream wedding dress and also give you plenty of insider tips on the way.

So if you are a who is a little bit confused about how to choose the right dress and have just discovered that there is a whole new language when it comes to dress shopping then I and this book are here for you! I have fifteen years experience with bespoke - new and vintage - and I’m going to hold your hand through the dress shopping and make sure that you look absolutely flawless at your wedding.

I’m so exited! Are you ready to start?

With love, Iida.

The Wedding dress Book 8 The Wedding dress Book 9 The Wedding dress Book 1 0 Planning and Dreaming

What to go over before you start your dress shopping and basic wedding gown glossary.

Imagine your dream dress

First thing to do is to think what your dream wed- ding dress might look like. Reach into your childhood and remember what was your childhood dream and which things played big part in your wedding dreams. It might give you some glues or offer a chance for re- flection about your taste now.

You might want to take few days or weeks to go through magazines or Pinterest and see what kind of dresses make you stop for a moment. Make sure that it is really the dresses that you are looking at, not the models’ hair or face or the kind of light used in the photo. You can try to cover the heads of the models to make sure or find several similar type of dresses in different photographs and compare them.

Put it on paper

Take notes about the details of the dresses: what material they are made of, what is the shape and sil- houette that you are drawn to and what is the overall feeling. Are the dresses structured and formal or soft and flowing? Perhaps they remind you of a certain era or are decorated in some special way. You can write your thoughts on paper, print out your favorites and overall try to figure out why you like things you do and how they make you feel.

The Wedding dress Book 1 0 The Wedding dress Book 1 1 It is equally important to think what you don’t like and why it is so. Pick some photos of the dresses you would never wear and write down what is wrong with them. Sometimes the ’yuck’ things can surprise you. This way you will have pretty good guidelines pre- pared for your shopping day.

I don’t know what looks good on me!

If you are totally clueless what you like and want, make a trip to the nearest shopping mall and try on some different dresses or evening gowns to see what they look like on you. That’s the surest way to get information how the different dress styles behave and look on your body.

Don’t think so much about the color or print but keep your eyes open for the shape of the dresses. You can also think what kind of clothes you like in general. Do you usually prefer open or closed necklines? Do you like to wear or high on your or do you prefer them a bit lower? These details give a general idea about what you should look for.

Think what kind of clothes you feel sexy or confident in. Wedding dress is supposed to bring forward your favorite aspects of yourself.

This way you don’t feel so stressed in your dress ap- pointment and have better understanding of what you want. Even if you love shopping and trying on clothes you don’t want to stand hours and hours in front of a mirror trying on every dress under the sun. You will get tired and cranky. So do your ’homework’ and dream!

The Wedding dress Book 1 2 Dress silhouettes

Having names for styles and details makes the discussing about dresses easier and gives you better understanding about language sales assist- ants and designers use.

We hope this part of the book also shows you the head-spinning variety of dresses available. The com- binations of dress silhouettes, necklines and materi- als are infinite! Those three elements form only the very base idea of the dress and on of them the designers add trimmings like beadings, embroidery and other details.

A-line

A dress that flares smoothly from the hips. It’s clas- sic and popular silhouette that works beautifully for most people. In a modified A-line the hem might flare bit more giving a dress more gown -type look. Sometimes the modified A-line is referred as Princess silhouette (see. ).

Ball gown

A dress silhouette with full, roundish hem. This is a very romantic silhouette with fairytale feel. As the name suggest it’s a good fit for formal .

Sheath

A slim silhouette with a narrow and straight hem. The amount of embellishments and trims give lots of var- iation to otherwise simple form. Sometimes referred also as Column.

The Wedding dress Book 1 2 The Wedding dress Book 1 3 A-line Ballgown Sheath

Mermaid Trumpet Empire

The Wedding dress Book 1 4 Mermaid / Trumpet

Mermaid and Trumpet silhouettes are sometimes re- ferred as the same thing, but in their purest forms the Trumpet’s hem flares out before knees and Mer- maid’s somewhere lower. Otherwise they are very close fitting which can make moving in the dress a challenge. They are glamorous, Hollywood style sil- houettes that give curvy and sensual look.

Empire

The empire line dress has raised waist right beneath breasts. The silhouette has gotten it’s name from regency/empire era (beginning of 19th century) . Think Jane Austen movie heroines.

Princess line

Not a dress silhouette but refers to the dress type that doesn’t have waist seam but vertical seams that give it it’s shape. Most typically seen in A-line, Sheath and Mermaid gowns.

Some brands and boutiques might refer the modified A-line as a ’Princess silhouette’ but in fashion industry Princess line refers above all to the vertical seams in a dress. For example Meghan Markle’s wedding gown was a princess line dress.

The Wedding dress Book 1 4 The Wedding dress Book 1 5 Sweetheart Semi-sweetheart Straight

Illusion Off-shoulder Jewel

Scoop V-neck Bateau

Square Halter Halter strap

High Neck Asymmetric/One Shoulder Queen Anne

Cowl Grecian The Wedding dress Book 1 6 Necklines

The pictures show the neckline silhouettes in a simple way. All these necklines have slight variations in size and shape. When searching for your dress you may also find combinations of two different necklines like off-shoulder illusion etc.

Train Lengths

In modern time is very specifically a wedding dress and design element. The only other places you can see trains are in some aca- demic dresses or court . Trains give formal- ity and fluidity into big dresses and often make the wearer seem longer as they trail behind. The lengths given here are estimates and may vary by design and brands.

Sweep/Brush

The shortest train type that only just sweeps the floor.

Court

Bit longer train than a Sweep train, about 30cm long (1 foot).

Chapel

Mid length train, about 100cm long (3 feet). well when the ceremony is formal and the aisle is long enough to show off the length of the train.

Cathedral

More formal and longer than Chapel train, about 180- 200cm long (6 feet).

The Wedding dress Book 1 6 The Wedding dress Book 1 7 Monarch Cathedral Chapel Sweep Court

The Wedding dress Book 1 8 Monarch

Longest possible train, over 300cm long (10 feet). Re- ally formal and needs a big space and to help you out. Typically seen in royal weddings hence the name. The Princess Diana’s wedding dress had whooping 762cm long train (25 feet)!

Watteau train

Refers to a train that is attached to the shoulders of the dress. Often detachable and might act almost as an alternative .

Panel train

A train that attaches to the waist and often detacha- ble. Typically used with the longest trains so the bride can move and dance more easily during reception as the train can be taken off.

Veil Lengths

It’s good to know that there might be some differenc- es in veil lengths and names when it comes to differ- ent brands. The veil lengths are always dependable on the brand or boutique. Some carry all the lengths, some only part of them and so the lengths may have Monarch been fixed to accommodate the missing lengths.

The can also be cut in a few different ways which alters their look even if the length would be the same. The best way to find a good fit to yourself is of course try them on and ask for their measurements if you end up ordering a veil from internet.

Remember that your own height and the way you’ll attach the veil has an effect on the look of the veil.

The Wedding dress Book 1 8 The Wedding dress Book 1 9 For shorter person who attaches the veil underneath the low hair bun the Waltz veil which ends before floor might actually be a floor length veil.

Birdcage

The short net that partly or wholly drops on your face. Birdcage veil is often attached to a fascinator, clips, etc. It’s usually stiffer and holds it’s shape better compared to other veils.

Blusher

The part of the veil that drops on the face.

Fly away

The shortest traditional veil length stopping before shoulders. Sometimes the same thing as the shoul- der length. Over 40cm long (16 inches).

Shoulder

The veil that ends at shoulders. Sometimes referred also as the Fly away. Around or over 50cm long (19 inches).

Waist/Elbow

The veil that ends at waist. Can be also referred as the Elbow veil. Around or over 60cm long (25 inches).

Fingertip/Hip

The veil that ends at hip. Most often referred as the Fingertip veil. Very typical veil length in more informal weddings and dresses without train. Around or over 80cm long (32 inches).

The Wedding dress Book 2 0 Ballet

The veil that ends at knee or mid calf. Sometimes re- ferred also as the Waltz veil even thought the Waltz is often bit longer. Around or over 120cm long(48 inch- es).

Waltz

Shorter than a floor length veil. The length can vary a bit depending of a brand and what other lengths are available from the same brand. Sometimes the Waltz and Ballet are referred as the same but the Waltz can also be longer than Ballet, somewhere around mid calf and ankle. Around or over 150cm long (59 inches).

Sweep/Floor

The veil that touches the floor. Similar to the shortest train length. Around or over 180cm long (70 inches).

Chapel

Longer than the Sweep veil but shorter than the Ca- thedral veil. Around or over 250cm long (98 inches).

Cathedral

Longer than the Chapel veil, often around 300cm long (118 inches).

Royal (Cathedral)

The longest veil length. Around or over 350cm long (138 inches). Typically the length can vary very much depending where you get the veil. Sometimes also referred as Monarch.

The Wedding dress Book 2 0 The Wedding dress Book 2 1 Flyaway

Shoulder

Waist

Fingertip

Ballet

Waltz

Sweep

Chapel

Cathedral

Royal

The Wedding dress Book 2 2 What is your wedding dress made of?

The materials and fabrics used in wedding dresses are most likely a mix of polyester, nylon and . For many the materials are not very important, but rather how the dress looks and feels. I still wanted to include some basic information about materials and fabric types to make it easier for brides to un- derstand what options they have when it comes to dress fabrics.

Also selfishly I want to educate people so that there’ll be less talk about and silk in one sentence as if they are comparable. Silk is material from which fab- rics are made of and satin is a a weave which can be produced with any yarn: there’s for example silk satin, cotton satin and polyester satin.

In first part we go over fibers that are most often used in wedding fashion and in the second part I tell about the different fabric types. Some of them might even be familiar for you. All clothes should have a tag in them which tells you the fibers used in it if you want to know more about the fibers you wear.

Fiber materials

The first group is natural fibers that are produced from animals or plants. They are the first materials humans have used in their clothes and are often also more expensive because of their organic origin. The bright white is harder to find from natural fibers, but on the other hand they feel good on the skin be- cause of their breathing properties.

The Wedding dress Book 2 2 The Wedding dress Book 2 3 Natural fibers:

Silk

The classic wedding fabric. Silk can look very see through or be even coarse and stiff depending of the weave and yarn type. Silk has a specific shine and scent and it’s more expensive compared to other fabrics. Silk is available in most tones, apart from the most bright blueish white.

Wool

Wool is not very typical fabric in modern wedding dresses apart from the finest wool crêpes. Wool can be surprisingly shiny and transparent. It comes in soft white and ivory tones.

Cotton

Cotton is used mainly inside the to offer sup- port or some linings. It’s not typically the main dress fabric in wedding or evening gowns. Sometimes an- tique dresses might be made of sheer and crispy cotton organdy.

The second group is man-made synthetic fibers that are mostly produced from petroleum or cellulose. These fibers are often easier to clean and don’t wrin- kle that much. They can be found in all colors includ- ing bright blueish white.

The Wedding dress Book 2 4 The negative thing is that they might feel cold and make you feel sweaty as they don’t absorb moisture.

Synthetic and man-made fibers:

Viscose

Viscose is comfortable material with soft feel and good draping qualities. As it’s derived from cellulose it actually absorbs moisture very well which makes it feel great on skin. Often mixed with other yarns or used by itself to imitate silk. Viscose comes in all white tones.

Polyester

Polyester is easy to care material which can be made with any tone from brilliant white to deep colors. As it’s washable and not easily wrinkled it’s the basic material for many dress fabrics at least in part. Pol- yester can be found in almost all more affordable wedding gowns.

Polyamide

Polyamide is in many ways similar to polyester. Only big difference for you to know is that polyamide can be dyed even at home unlike polyester.

Nylon

Nylon is strong, synthetic polymer fabric with silky feel. Often used in nets and sheer fabrics or mixed with other yarns to give strength.

The Wedding dress Book 2 4 The Wedding dress Book 2 5 Fabric types

This part lists the names and styles of the most com- mon fabrics used in the wedding dresses. To get more information about the fabrics used in the dresses head to the brand pages or make use of your local bridal boutique or fabric store.

Organza

Organza is transparent fabric which is stiffer than and holds it’s shape well. It may wrinkle. Fin- est organza is made of silk, others can be be made of polyester or nylon.

Chiffon

Chiffon is transparent fabric which drapes beauti- fully. It’s matte and has gently coarse texture. It goes into small space and doesn’t wrinkle very much which makes it great for destination weddings. Chif- fon frays and snatches easily. Again the finest sort is made from silk and more affordable ones from poly- ester or viscose or mix of all the previous.

Tulle

Tulle is see through net that can be stiff or soft de- pending of the material it’s made of. It’s light weight fabric, often made of polyester, nylon, silk or mix of them. Synthetic tulle gets easily frizzy in dry and cold air and may gather hairs and dust because of that. Typically used in veils, overlays and petticoats.

Lace

Lace is typically see through net like fabric embroi- dered with different floral or geometrical motifs. The weight and feel of lace changes according the type.

The Wedding dress Book 2 6 The finest lace can easily cost several hundred eu- ros/dollars per meter. It’s used typically in overlays, trims and veils.

Satin

Satin is a specific weave of fabric in which one side is shiny and glossy and one side matte. For wedding gowns satin can be made of silk or polyester for ex- ample. Depending of the yarn and material satin can be anything from stiff to draping and soft. Satin is a very typical wedding dress fabric. It was used for ex- ample in Catherine Middleton’s wedding dress.

Velvet

This fabric is tufted on it’s right side with dense pile which gives it soft feel. It’s quite heavy and reflects light differently depending which way the fabric is running. For wedding gowns the is often made of silk or viscose or mix of both.

Crêpe

Crêpe is matte fabric made with gently curling yarn. It typically drapes well and works beautifully in bias cut. It can be made in several different weights and transparencies. Finest crêpes are made of silk or wool, more affordable are often made with polyester or viscose in them.

Taffeta

Taffeta is smooth, quite stiff and crispy fabric that holds it’s shape extremely well. It has nice shine and is relatively light in it’s weight. It shows wrinkles easily. Princess Diana’s wedding dress was made of ivory silk taffeta.

The Wedding dress Book 2 6 The Wedding dress Book 2 7 The Wedding dress Book 2 8 Dress Shopping

Where and how to shop for a wedding dress and what to look for.

You have so many options

TIP! Don’t feel like you You are getting married and you will need to wear have to take the typical something for the big day. Through history the wed- road. Colored dresses are ding dress has often been the bride’s best attire and popular and right now the trendy options are pastel it has been reused before and after the wedding. tones like blush or pale Queen Victoria’s choice to wear white lace for her blue. Even black dresses wedding in the 19th century made a big impact on have been coming back! fashion and dresses became more common. Nowadays the white wedding dress is a well known symbol for weddings, brides and mar- riage.

There are several different ways to buy a wedding dress:

• Designer boutique

• Bridal boutique carrying several different designers

• Sample sale

• Internet

• Second hand shop

• Seamtress or a designer

• Mall or a shopping centre

The Wedding dress Book 2 8 The Wedding dress Book 2 9 How the dress is made

There are few different terms to describe dresses: ready to wear, off-the-rack, made to measure, and bespoke. These are all related to the way the dress is made and if it is one of a kind or bulk manufactured.

There is no right or wrong kind of a dress but it is good to know these terms when you start to look for your gown. This way you will understand what you are paying for and what is typically included. Ready to wear €

The dress you can buy just as you see it in the shop. Many designers carry ready to wear collections which are designed to the bigger audience. These are the cost effective option. These dresses come in a wide range of quality and prize.

Off-the-rack €

Same as ready to wear. Both are the quickest op- tions and often cheapest. Is it easy for you to shop for clothes when it comes to size? If you answer yes then there is a good possibility that you are going to find a well fitting wedding dress off-the-rack and you can take it home right away.

Off-the-rack dresses can usually be altered in terms of waist size and hem length but you can’t really alter the overall design without taking it to the seamstress. As off-the-rack and made to measure dresses are designed to fit the taste of most people the designs are often trendy, safe or traditional.

The Wedding dress Book 3 0 Made to measure €€

You pick something from a catalogue or try on dif- ferent samples that you choose a dress from. Then you it and get a dress that is made to fit your measurements. Sometimes you can customize the gown somehow: change the color or the fabric, or add some details or leave some out.

Most of the new dresses are bought like this and the budget can be anything from a few hundreds to sev- eral thousands depending the quality. If you wedding themed tv-series you have most likely seen some form of made to measure dress shopping. There is often more design variations available to choose from than off-the-rack.

Bespoke €€€

Something that is designed and made just for you from the start to finish. This is closest to the Fairy God- mother’s magic dress you can get. Bespoke includes designing, making, fitting and finishing and the bespoke dress fits you like a . You can add your own creative touch or give the designer free hands to visualize a wedding dress in your style.

You will be the only one in the world wearing this dress and nobody will get exactly the same dress that you have. You will have all the possibilities when deciding on the silhouette, fabrics and details.

Bespoke dress is a good option if you have a really specific design in mind, your body has really unique shape, or you use aids for moving for example.

The Wedding dress Book 3 0 The Wedding dress Book 3 1 The Wedding dress Book 3 2 Bespoke budget is fluid and you also pay for the service

The budget for bespoke can vary depending on fab- rics and the amount of details. Often they are more expensive than the cheapest made to measures. You can always negotiate with your designer or seam- stress and try to find a good middle ground. It is good to remember that with made to measure dresses there is no costs of alterations which can easily add even third to the prize of an off-the-rack wedding dresses.

The design and quality depends on the maker so you should pick a one you trust and who has a good reputation. The whole process takes several months but the earlier you order the more time the designer has to find the perfect fabrics and fix the last details. Ideally you should make the first inquire at least six months before your wedding date. One year before is even better. If you consult a designer you can usu- ally be sure that you will receive proper accessories. Designers can also offer you help to find the sources for any other dress related things.

The magic starts with the under- wear

The underwear is the most important part of your wedding day attire. It is important to figure out how open your dress might be: sleeves or no sleeves, do you want a , do you fancy a long or short hem etc. This way you know what kind of under- wear you need.

The Wedding dress Book 3 2 The Wedding dress Book 3 3 Your underwear can reshape your body, for example how high or low your breasts are. This detail is impor- tant when the wedding dress is fitted for your per- sonal measurements. That is why you should have a good or on while shopping for your dress.

Many dresses might have some kind of internal struc- ture like bra cups or stiffened middle, but in cheaper dresses they are not enough to hold your body well. It is always better to have the good underwear than try to use the dress itself to lift your bust or slim your waist.

If your thighs chafe easily and you’re not planning to use you could get a pair of longer pan- ties or bicycling to smooth things up. Silky and smooth underwear also makes the dress on eas- ily. Underwear also protects the dress bit from sweat.

Save the sexy for the night

TIP! If you’re on the budg- Be prepared to spend enough money for your under- et the cheapest clothing wear as the good ones don’t come cheap. Spend- brands (H&M, Topshop, ing the whole wedding day in flimsy lace might get Lindex etc.) carry at least one white lace set uncomfortable very quickly. It might be better to buy during the spring . a good nude colored corset or bra to use under the wedding dress and shop for lacy wedding night lin- gerie separately. This way you don’t have to sacrifice the look for practicality.

You can always change into the sexy lingerie before the wedding night and freshen up while doing so. You might be surprised how sticky you can feel after wearing a dress for 8 hours. Also if the going gets ex- iting during the night, you don’t have to feel bad for ruined costly lingerie. You can reuse the pricier nude colored ones in the future.

The Wedding dress Book 3 4 New shoes, new you

If you want to use a pair of heels on your wedding day, shop for them early. The heels change the shape of your back and the way you carry yourself so the dresses should be tried on with the heels. It is always easier to fix the hem of the dress than try to find the heels in right height for your wedding dress.

For many people the shoes are what they can wear again after the wedding. It is always nice to have re- ally fancy ones, but if you are wearing a long dress the shoes won’t be seen much. You are probably moving quite a lot during the day so pick something you feel comfortable in. It is always good to use the shoes few times before the wedding day so they get shaped to your feet and you avoid the painful blis- ters. This way you also notice the spots that may give you pain and can get suitable gel cushions.

Shoes are a nice way to add a pop of color into your attire, so don’t be afraid to try something else than white. I picked shoes with silver glitter for myself when I got married. They added a nice touch of bling into my look and I’ve been using them several times since then.

If you are not used to high heels there is really no need to make yourself wear ones. There is huge amount of beautiful flats available and it is also trendy to opt for like Converse. One of my customers wore a really beautiful pair of flat in her garden wedding! It is totally up to you what kind of shoes you are comfortable with. If you feel like you want to look sexy for your spouse, do the same as with the lingerie and get a pair of affordable sky highs for your wed- ding night to tease your spouse with.

The Wedding dress Book 3 4 The Wedding dress Book 3 5 The Wedding dress Book 3 6 Shopping is easy with a good mood

Positivity is a big deal while trying on dresses. Eve- rything looks better when you are in a good mood! Make sure you have slept well and remember to eat before you go. Fix up your hair a bit and put on some light make-up if you normally use it. Have a few min- utes of joy that you are heading to find your dream wedding dress!

Make sure you have enough time and bring your un- derwear and shoes with you. It can be good to ask a friend or a family member to come with you, but don’t feel bad if you feel like shopping for the dress alone. In the end it is not that much different than shopping for other clothes.

TIP! Think carefully For some people the idea of bringing a big group of whose opinion means most friends, bridesmaids and family is nice, but hearing to you. several thoughts about something that is ultimately your own decision can be overwhelming and stop the ’yes, this is it’ moment from coming.

Go to your appointment believing you will find that dream dress. That purpose and certainty is vital as you will be more open and receptive. Enjoy the occa- sion, take your time and have fun while trying on all those beautiful gowns. Try not to worry too much as it will sour the experience. If you are feeling worried think where those feelings are coming from. If you feel comfortable talk about your feelings aloud. Keep your attitude positive and trust that there will be the dress for you.

The Wedding dress Book 3 6 The Wedding dress Book 3 7 You will get help and information

In a store or a boutique the staff will help you dress up and then you can walk to a mirror to see yourself. Try to relax your body so you will better see the fit of the dress. You should bend a bit and sit down with a dress to figure out how comfortable it is while eating and partying. Try to move around or even dance a few steps. Enjoy your time trying on dresses!

TIP! Make sure there is no Sometimes the dress you try on is way too small beading under the armpits or big and it might be tightened with clamps. Don’t as they can scratch and hesitate to ask about the sizing, fit and what altera- chafe the skin or fabric on tions should be made. A good salesperson should be the sleeve. able to answer all your questions. You can always ask what things can be changed and if there is another dress with similar pros but without the cons.

In ready to wear dresses you can’t alter the silhou- ette very much without taking it to a seamstress for some serious work. You can add petticoats but that’s about it. If the dress clings to your legs in a way that makes you uncomfortable, you can add a hoop un- derskirt in most cases.

The little details, like shoulder straps or a or length of the hem are easier to fix. With made to measure dresses there might be a possibility to pick the tone of the fabric (from colder to warmer: pure white, pearl, silk, ivory, champagne etc. there is plenty of different tones and names for them). If your dress has a train but you don’t want it, it is possible to have it altered. The prizing may change depending the choices.

The Wedding dress Book 3 8 How tight is tight enough?

When it comes to how tight your dress should feel, the snug hug is best way to describe it. It shouldn’t squeeze you too much and you should be able to breath, sit down and eat in a relative comfort.

The phenomenon called expansion because of warmth is true to dresses also. As the gown gets warmer on you (while dancing for example) the fab- ric will get a bit looser. You might need to tighten your wedding dress once you have spent some time wearing your gown.

This is why strapless dresses should rely on a waist stay or a corset as those can be tightened. I wouldn’t advice to get a with a zipper back. If you are not a fan of corset backs, inner hook and eye closures could be your thing with the pretty buttons on top.

Hooks are the solution we use often in our bespoke gowns instead of zippers, as it holds better against the pressure and is easier to fix if something breaks. You can even ask for double row of eyes to be made inside like in a bra so you can tighten the dress little bit during the day if needed.

The dress shouldn’t push your breasts or underarms out, it means that the is too small for you. If the dress has big horisontal wrinkles around your waist or hips like it is trying to ‘raise up’ it’s too tight there and you should try one size bigger.

The Wedding dress Book 3 8 The Wedding dress Book 3 9 The Wedding dress Book 4 0 Waist stay

One thing you should get done for even with cheaper gowns is a ribbon on the waist that is made to fit your exact waist measurement. Sometimes it is referred as a waist stay. This sturdy ribbon inside the dress is what really holds your dress in the right place so it doesn’t slip down.

If you ever get to see insides of a vintage haute cou- ture dress, I can promise that you will see the waist line ribbon in almost every dress. It is a very practical little detail that is not often seen in a ready made gowns but which makes a huge difference how it stays on.

Sometimes there is also an elastic under bust ribbon which is a bit similar to bra. It is a nice addition to further secure the dress but it is not as critical as the waist closure. The under bust stay is more typical in ready made gowns.

We use the waist stay in most of our gowns and in all of our strapless gowns. It is particularly important if the dress has no corset back. If there is no waist rib- bon in your dress, it is quite easy to add later if you know how to sew.

You can also take your gown to a seamstress. Just remember to ask the waist stay to be done snugly and with the exact waist measurement so it really stays on your waist line.

The waist stay minimizes the yanking up and makes sure the dress stays on without having to tighten it around your bust which often creates the ‘underarm fat’ effect.

The Wedding dress Book 4 0 The Wedding dress Book 4 1 The Wedding dress Book 4 2 B u d g e t

Know how much money you have to spend and think where you want to spend it.

Having a budget assures the dress bliss

Money talk is always bit exhausting but it is so impor- tant! There’s no iron clad way to budget your wed- ding day attire, but I have seen budget breakdowns where wedding dress and accessories are 5% of your whole wedding budget. You can use that as a begin- ning and see what it would mean in your case.

Remember that the dress budget includes at least the dress, alterations and accessories. Then there’s all the small things like blister sticks and stain wipes. You can decide if you include also hair, make-up and other beauty products and services into your dress budget or handle them as their own expenditure.

Search the dress within you budget because nothing is sadder than trying on something that is way too expensive and then falling in love with it. After this every dress you try on gets compared to that one too expensive dress and you won’t get your ’ooh’ mo- ment.

It is okay if you don’t have thousands or tens of thou- sands to use for a dress you most likely use once. Most people don’t want to use all their hard earned money into one outfit. Try to figure out how much you are really able to use and don’t be too optimistic, try to keep it real.

The Wedding dress Book 4 2 The Wedding dress Book 4 3 How to stay in budget

The most expensive dresses are lace gowns, fully embroidered ones or those with big hem and lots of structure. Also the brand name adds to the cost.

This way, logically, the cheaper dresses are simple ones with soft silhouette and less layers that drape around you rather than reshape your body. The less inner structures there are the less the dress usually costs.

Polyester is cheap fabric that can be produced to im- TIP! If the dress is made with cheaper fabrics like itate almost any from of silk: from the lightest chiffon polyester or blended ma- to the sturdiest taffeta. Most of the cheaper dresses terials rather than pure (under thousand euros/dollars) are usually made of silk, the prize goes down. man-made fabrics like polyester satin or nylon tulle.

Often these budget friendly dresses are made with a simple dress pattern, like strapless . We call this a base dress, because it is a good base for many different designs.

These base dresses can be decorated with plenty of options that are easy to change with the trends. All this keeps the cost down. The trims are usually quickly stitched on the top layer of the dress in big- ger patches and are also relatively easy to take off or change. That is always a plus if you want to take the dress to a seamstress for some refashioning.

Can you get a lace dress under 1000€?

Many of us love lace dresses because they are beau- tiful, timeless and elegant. It is no wonder that they have been loved through the decades. If your heart is set on the lace dress but your budget is small, you

The Wedding dress Book 4 4 should think about making some compromises. Don’t worry, you can definitely get lace on a budget!

TIP! You can get lace jack- Use lace on just some parts. It is a good way to get the ets or boleros to wear on prize down. Great places to show off the lace beau- top of your dress. There tifully is on the sleeves, back or neckline. It makes a are great option if you want to cover your shoul- big impact and will show on most photographs way ders in a church. You can better than a lace trimmed hem. use them again after the wedding. You can also downsize the dress itself and get a with lace overlay or even a small cock- tail dress instead of big lacy ball gown. They require less fabric which keeps the prize down compared to the big lace gowns.

Alternatively you can get a beautiful big, lace veil to compliment your simple dress. A veil can really make you feel like a bride! They are cheaper compared to dresses because they don’t need many different materials and they lack the measuring and fitting that dresses deed. They also look really romantic and dramatic. Veils make wonderful keepsakes and can be passed from generation to generation.

Hidden costs

Unfortunately not all the costs are always presented upfront. If you need alterations, remember to ask how much they are and if you have to get them made in a specific place. Sometimes it is cheaper to find your own seamstress than get things done in the same place you bought the dress from so compare the prices. The alterations can easily add a third or more to the cost of the dress.

You might also need an extra petticoat that is not included in the dress price. Keep tabs on how much

The Wedding dress Book 4 4 The Wedding dress Book 4 5 TIP! Vintage furs are quite your accessories are going to cost and what you easy to come by in second have spend already. If it is winter time, what are you hand shops. I got mine for 10 € few years back. We going to wear if it is cold or rainy? would never buy new furs. Sometimes you need to fix something just before the wedding even if the dress was good when you bought it. You might need to take it to the dry cleaner for or steaming. There can also be last minute expenses so it is good to save a small part of your budget for them.

Getting a dress with a mini budget

If you are searching for really budget friendly ways to get your wedding dress and the bridal boutiques just don’t offer you the right options, fear not! There are plenty of alternative ways to get a wedding dress. Getting an affordable dress and combining it with more expensive accessories is a great way to spend the money to the things that count. The accessories can be worn again many times so you can be sure that you have something long lasting.

Any white gown from the store can be a wedding dress

Don’t forget the off-the-rack dresses from other than bridal brands. Many shopping malls and department stores carry simple white dresses in their evening gown departments. Also several mid priced clothing brands have at least one white dress in almost every season. I love the British brand Ted Baker! They have always offered me good service and I like their style and price vs. quality.

The Wedding dress Book 4 6 Non bridal brands tend to be a tad cheaper and still offer beautiful well made gowns. Prom dresses and even semi formal summer dresses can look stunning with well made make-up, hair and accessories.

DIY - sewing by yourself

You can also make your own dress. Don’t worry, it won’t give you bad luck, but maybe a bit more stress. When you make your dress you can use the most of your dress budget on fabrics. I would advice that only do this if you have sewn for yourself before and if you have a friend or relative who can help you with fittings or last week’s embroidery.

TIP! Buy a ready made You can find patterns for gowns in most libraries or white bodice, corset or order one from internet. It’s important to make a toile, lace and just add the first fitting version from cheap fabric to see what the hem. changes are needed for the pattern. Make use of all the sewing tutorials from internet. You might even find local sewing courses where you have a teacher to help you out and more machines to use. That’s a good option if you don’t have a friend who could help you with fittings.

There’s plenty of great looking lace inlays for available in Etsy. You could order one and add it to a simple bodice for instant wow factor. It’s quick way to get really fancy looking dress without the need to make everything from scratch.

The once loved dresses

Second hand shops are treasure boxes for the brides with a small budget or vintage loving brides. Remember to start the dress search early enough. You can get great bargains, but make sure to

The Wedding dress Book 4 6 The Wedding dress Book 4 7 the dresses for stains and rips and think how much you need to pay for alterations. If you find a beautiful dress but it has some damage take a minute to fig- ure out if you can add some trims to cover them or refashion that part of the dress somehow.

Remember to ask your relatives, neighbors and friends if they know a dress for you. You never know whose cousin, aunt or grandma has the perfect dress in their closet. Even though refashioning an old dress might not be particularly trendy right now, it can be a great option to get something you couldn’t afford otherwise, like good lace or a big train.

If somebody offers a dress for you and you are plan- ning to refashion it, think which things you like in the dress and save those. It might be lace, the hem or the tone of sateen or trimmings for example. If there is nothing in the dress that draws you in, there is noth- ing to be done to make you love it. There must always be something on the dress that you love or otherwise it’s a no-go.

Old dresses can look bit musty and yellowed. Some places clean them out before selling but sometimes you can find treasures from people who don’t really sell clothes as their day job. Take the dress to a dry cleaning where they can tell you what can be done. Ask at least deodorizing with oxygen if the dress has any smell. If you have a really old vintage dress, take it to the cleaners who have some experience with antique or vintage clothes.

As a home solution for whitening and cleaning the OxiClean, Vanish or other stain removal products that work with oxidizing can be tried. Read the in- structions well and follow them. If there’s beading or metal of any kind, remove them as they can stain or

The Wedding dress Book 4 8 change colors during the whitening. Try the whiten- ing agent at first somewhere hidden or cut a small piece of fabric for testing. I have treated one gown successfully in a normal bathtub.

How to wash and whiten Fill the tub with warm water and add the stain re- your second hand dress in moval powder or liquid. Mix it in well and make sure a bathtub: all the powder dissolves. Then you can add the dress. Keep eye on it and don’t leave it in the water all alone. Afterwards drain the tub and wash the dress again gently with clean water several times. Let it dry on a floor or a table on top of several white terry cloth towels.

After cleaning the dress iron and steam it well and starch the parts that look like they need bit more bounce. Sometimes it’s no use to try to save the old trimmings and it might be easier to make new bows or new lace appliqués.

Finding the right fabrics might take a some effort but often the close matches are found and things will look very good in the end. With lace don’t get stuck on the exact motives but try to find the similar tone, shine and size.

Rent your wedding dress

Renting a dress can be really great if you’re not set on wanting to have it as a keepsake. You could even search for a rentable dress from theaters or other renting businesses in your area. They are great especially if you’ve been dreaming about a period dress or fantasy styles.

The Wedding dress Book 4 8 The Wedding dress Book 4 9 The Wedding dress Book 5 0 Before The Wedding

Keeping the dress in a perfect shape before your wedding day.

Storing: Give the dress enough space to hang

TIP! If you don’t have a You should store your dress on a hanger in a breath- garment bag, cover the able garment bag and keep it inside the house. If dress with a clean cotton your closet is very full, don’t try to jam your wedding sheet to keep it away from dress in. The dress shouldn’t be flattened or bend any dust and dirt. more than necessary. This way you keep the folds, hem and bodice in a good shape and wrinkle free. In best case the dress should hang as straight as pos- sible or stay on a dress form used in sewing.

If there isn’t enough space in your home or your family’s homes, ask if you can get the dress from the shop just a few days before the wedding. You might be tempted to let the dress lay on the chair or the bed, but in my experience all the stuff seems to grav- itate towards the horizontal surfaces and there is too big a risk that somebody will sit on the dress or leave things laying on it. That is why hanging the dress is best way to keep it safe.

You can get a clothing rack for your dress if you have been thinking about getting one anyway. Ikea has many different kinds that we’ve been using. Another good place to hang the dress is at the back of a door you don’t use much. Key is to keep the dress out of the way so that it doesn’t get brushed or moved con- stantly.

The Wedding dress Book 5 0 The Wedding dress Book 5 1 The Wedding dress Book 5 2 If you have been storing the dress in a smaller space or folded, take it out well before the wedding and hang it straight so it has time to get back in it is prop- er shape. Don’t leave it to the last night in case there is something you need to fix or take care of.

Hang the dress by the loops

TIP! The best way to carry Check that the dress is well adjusted on the hang- the dress around is with er and hasn’t fallen off. Never hang your dress from two hands so that you hold shoulder straps. The dress can be heavy and it will the hanger in one and the dress rests on the other. stretch the straps. Every dress should have two rib- bon loops for hanging. Often you can find them un- derneath the arms, sewn into the side seams. Use these to hang the dress.

If there is no loops, you can add them by sewing them in yourself or adding them with safety pins. Find a sturdy place to attach them like a seam, to make sure the fabric won’t rip from where the loops are.

Keep your dress clean

Your wedding dress is finally there and I know that you want to touch it and try it on again and again. I did too! However it is better that you let your dress hang in your closet and avoid touching it.

There is always dirt and grease on your skin which will stick to a light colored dress. It looks invisible at first but give it some time and the grease turns to stains and yellowing. Many bridal professionals use white cotton gloves while working with the dresses or wash their hands often.

The Wedding dress Book 5 2 The Wedding dress Book 5 3 The hem of your dress easily picks up dust and dirt from floors and it will be a pain to remove. Most of the bridal boutiques ask you to change into inside shoes or go shoeless altogether to keep the dirt away from the floors.

If you feel that you want to practice moving around or need to polish up your dance steps, use your pet- ticoat if you have one or other long and your wedding shoes. That gives you a chance to learn how to move around while keeping the dress clean and safe.

Friends and family members might want to see the dress but resist the temptation and show them some pictures instead. This way they get the full experience seeing you in the dress first time in the wedding day. Give your dress a rest dear!

Wrinkles can be treated at home

When you get your dress from the store or from a seamstress it is often ironed or steamed. They want to make sure that you are ready to go! However usu- ally you have to store your dress for several months (some even over a year) and in that time it can get rumpled.

If your dress gets wrinkled you should consider if you want to iron it at home or take it to a dry cleaner for steaming. If the dress is only slightly wrinkly, hang it in a way that everything is straight. Usually in few days most of the wrinkles are gone with the help of gravity and humidity.

For extra humidity you can hang the dress close to

The Wedding dress Book 5 4 your bathroom and take a long warm shower with the door open. Pamper yourself! The slight humidity works best with dresses made of silk or other nat- ural fibers. Polyester and many other synthetic fib- ers don’t absorb water and they’ll need warmth to straighten.

Often there is parts that can’t be ironed, like sequin or bead decorations or ruffles. If these parts are badly rumpled you should consider taking your dress to a dry cleaner.

Ironing at home

TIP! Move from smaller Ironing your dress at home is possible, but it should part like sleeves and bod- be done with care. First make sure that your iron is ice towards bigger ones clean. If not, clean it with a cleaning solution meant like hem and train. This way you don’t accidentally for this purpose. Always read the instructions from wrinkle the parts you have the package. You can use clean cotton sheet on top just ironed. of your ironing board and on the floor to keep your dress clean. It doesn’t hurt to have one sheet be- tween the iron and dress. Or you can use a piece of white tissue paper or something similar.

Always start ironing with the lowest heat possible and from an unnoticeable place like lining. The irons are hottest at the moment when they give you the signal they’re ready to use. You should wait few more minutes after that to make sure the heat peak goes down.

If the iron doesn’t move well or feels sticky on fabric stop immediately and turn the heat lower. Wait for the iron to cool down before you continue. There’s real risk for fabric melting or browning if you’re not careful.

The Wedding dress Book 5 4 The Wedding dress Book 5 5 Be gentle while ironing and don’t pull the fabric as it can be stretched with heat and steam. Let the iron do the work for you. Move the iron continuously and never let it stay on one place more than few sec- onds. You don’t have to hurry, take your time but keep the iron moving.

Steaming

If you or your friend have a garment steamer, you can use that too. Let your dress hang freely on a hang- er, on the back of the door or on a clothes rack or a dress form if you happen to have one. Make sure that the water tank of the steamer is clean, wash it well if necessary and fill it with fresh water. Distilled water is the best bet as it doesn’t have too much minerals etc. in it that could accumulate inside the steamer.

Check that the nozzle is clean and wait for the steam. It takes from few minutes to 20 minutes depending of the model and size of your steamer. Always try the steamer first on white cotton or something similar.

Let the steam run about a minute as the steamer will probably sputter and spit some water out. If there is still plenty of water droplets within the steam you have to wait some more. Water can leave light stains on silk so you want to be extra careful here!

As with ironing, start from somewhere hidden to test that everything is okay. Steam the dress from up- wards down. The nozzle doesn’t have to touch the dress, the steam cloud is enough. Always mind your- self with steam as it is terribly hot and you don’t want to burn yourself or your dress. Keep your fingers safe- ly away from it.

The Wedding dress Book 5 6 Move slowly section by section and let the steam hit the fabric for minute or so at the time. You can pull the dress gently straighter as you work, but don’t use force. You don’t want to stretch anything, just get it straightened. Again move from smaller to bigger as with ironing.

If your steamer is small you most likely need to fill it up several times and do the dress in parts. The steam- ing leaves the dress bit damp so let it dry and air out before you start moving it around. This way you don’t create new wrinkles right after.

Keeping the armpit stains away

Wedding dresses can get hot and cleaning the sweat stains from them can be a pain. Sweat guards also known as arm pit pads and garment guards can be used to protect the dress from sweat and deodorant stains. You can buy sweat guards from the internet or search for them from any well stocked stores and clothing departments.

TIP! Pantyliners are a Sweat guards used to be made of fabric like cotton quick sweat guard solu- and cut into the shape of crescent moon. They were tion. Stick them on their stitched inside the garment underneath the arms. proper place by their tape side. These were used when dresses were difficult to clean or made from tender materials. You might still find those in vintage gowns.

Modern sweat guards are sometimes disposable and sold in multipacks. You can also craft your own. Many dressmakers also make these and they can at- tach them to the dress for you. They are especially important if you have white sleeves that show of the stains easily.

The Wedding dress Book 5 6 The Wedding dress Book 5 7 The Wedding dress Book 5 8 O n y o u r w e d d i n g d a y

Dressing up and moving around in your dress.

Get help for dressing

Oh, the fun part begins! It is your wedding day and now it is time to get dressed. Gather around your maid of honor and your bridesmaids and let the par- ty start. It is your big day so don’t hesitate to ask for help.

Some people can manage on their own if the wed- ding dress is light and slip in style. If you have full hem with layers or corset with hooks or cord you need to get somebody to close the dress for you. With a zip- per back it is good to have a helper to zip you in.

No need to sweat

TIP! To keep the sweaty If your wedding dress is airy with several layers of thighs in check powder fabric it is going to be surprisingly warm. In warm your groin and legs with weather big tulle hem forms an air pocket around baby powder. You can also try anti chafe balm or un- your legs, a bit like a down , and keeps the heat scented deodorant stick. and humidity within the garment.

Make sure you have plenty of time to get ready. If you sweat easily, dress slowly one layer at a time and take a break in between the layers. This way your body will get used to the different temperature.

The Wedding dress Book 5 8 The Wedding dress Book 5 9 Put the dress on when everything else is done

Eat, get your make-up done, do the last minute bath- room stop, put on your hairspray and mist the per- fume before putting on the top layer a.k.a your wed- ding dress. Don’t mist anything on while wearing the dress as with time the sprays will show as stains on the fabric. Hairsprays also dim the rhinestones and sequins because they form a film over their surfaces. Put on your shoes before the dress so everything fits as they should. or adjust the dress once you get your shoes on. Remember, the shoes shape your back and posture surprisingly much.

Lift the dress up and close it gently

TIP! Make the backside You can cover your face with a silk if the dress ’fat rolls and ’ is raised over your head. This way you protect your disappear by asking some- make up as well as your dress. Raise the dress high one to gently push their fingers in between the enough before closing it and check that the waist dress and skin and moving line is in the proper place and then lift a bit more. The them from middle towards heavy dresses tend to drag a bit downwards during you arms smoothing things the day. If your dress has the waist stay, ribbon fitted out this way. to your exact waist measurement, this should help significantly.

The little hook at the top should be closed first to not to strain the zipper. The invisible zippers are made of plastic and they are much more fragile than people think. It is best to not yank it with force. Last thing you need is a broken zipper! For corset back, the helper should first gently tighten the cord everywhere so the dress stays put and then tighten it again until it feels good.

The Wedding dress Book 6 0 Last minute fixes

You have your dress on, yay! Now move a bit in the dress, sit down for a few minutes and take note if everything feels ok. If there is a need to fix the fasten- ings or shoulder straps, ask somebody to do it now. Remember that you will spend several hours in the dress, don’t be shy to ask for help right now.

If things need to be fixed with a safety pin or some hand sewing don’t let it put you down. They do it on the catwalks and runaways all the time. Our bodies are living organisms and swellings, weight or meas- urement changes are normal and familiar for most of us.

Go over the dress with a lint roller to get rid of spare hairs and dust specks.

Things to keep in hand

• Clear sewing thread or threads matched to your dress

colors

• Super glue

• Double-sided tape or dress tape or fashion tape

• Safety pins

• Extra trimming, fabric or jewels

• Sharp scissors

• Clean cotton sheet if the bride needs to sit somewhere

dirty (sudden car change with dusty seats perhaps)

The Wedding dress Book 6 0 The Wedding dress Book 6 1 Keep calm no matter what

Sometimes the small accidents happen. For little tears, you can use double sided tape or even su- per glue. If you are handy with a needle, use a clear stitching thread, white thread, slim fishing line or even a long light colored hair to fix the rip.

You can use safety pins to solve many issues from rips to securing a button to keeping straps in place. For zippers that stick, rub the teeth with a bar of soap or a candle to lubricate the zipper without staining the dress. If the zipper breaks, it is best to be stitched into the dress.

If there is an unfortunate event when the hot iron melts the fabric, don’t cut anything away if it is not off color. I did this once for my sister’s graduation dress in the morning of the party. Luckily I had extra fabric on hand and was able to fix the straw- berry sized hole. Try to find a piece of fabric to put behind the hole on the wrong side and stitch or glue it on the place. I can promise that most people won’t notice the stain or a mishap.

Dirt and stains are not end of the world

It is good to remember that the dress is meant to be used and you shouldn’t make yourself sick by stress- ing about ruining it on the wedding day. The hem is going to get dirty during the day, so let it happen. Take it easy and enjoy the day.

I feel it shows a bit of bad taste to be overly careful

The Wedding dress Book 6 2 of the dress in the party, as it makes it seem like the star of the day is a garment not the wedding couple. If something happens, it will most likely be a wonder- ful tale to be told in the future. If at some point you will need to get rid of the stains so here is what to do.

Stain removal products

• White cotton towels or cloths

• Baby powder or corn starch

• Stain removal pen or wipes

• Rubbing alcohol

• Cotton swabs

• Bar of white soap

• White or off-white chalk used in sewing. Also known as

tailor’s chalk. You can find it in sewing equipment selling

stores. Try to match it to your dress color.

What to do and what not to do

Don’t rub or scrub the stain. You are just spreading the dirt to make a bigger stain or forcing it deeper into the fabric. If you are using stain removal prod- ucts, test them on the wrong side of the hem or other hidden place to see if there is a color change or oth- er damage to the fabric or trims.

Remember to test any product according to the package instructions and never let the solutions sit on the fabric longer than it says on the instructions. The stain removal solutions can sometimes melt or bleach your fabric if not used right.

The Wedding dress Book 6 2 The Wedding dress Book 6 3 If you are using cleaning solution, apply it with a clean cloth or cotton swap so you don’t over saturate the fabric. Keep plotting the exes away.

It would be optimal to let the wet spots dry on their own. If you are in a hurry, use a hair dryer in the coolest setting or other air blowing device and always keep it well away from the fabric. Never use an iron as it will burn the stain into the fabric, perhaps permanently.

Quick guide to different stains

1. With a white towel blot up any moisture. Gently lift

away any solids (like food) with a dull knife or something

similar.

2. Always work from the sides toward middle. This way

you don’t spread the stain into the clean parts.

3. If the stain is oily, sprinkle baby powder or corn starch

to absorb the oil. You can also try salt. The powdery and dry

substance absorbs oil and moisture. Use plenty and wait for

a 10 to 15 minutes before gently brushing it away. Repeat if

necessary. Use rubbing alcohol and dab the stain from the

sides towards the middle.

4. Cover the remaining stain with white chalk or baby

powder to hide it. You may also cover the stain with a trim,

beading or lace or even jewelry.

The Wedding dress Book 6 4 Red wine

Use a white towel to absorb as much of the stain as possible. Ad plenty of salt or baby powder on the stain to absorb the rest. Brush away and repeat if necessary.

Dab gently with a white cloth soaked in plain warm water from the outer edges of the stain to the mid- dle. Cover any remaining stain with chalk or baby powder.

Ink

Use rubbing alcohol. With a fabric or cotton swab, swipe from the edges towards the middle. Work slow- ly and change the swab often as ink is transferred.

Blot moisture away with a clean white cloth. Protect the underside of the dress with an additional white cloth to help absorb the ink. Cover any remaining stain with chalk or baby powder.

Lipstick or Make-up

Try a stain removal wipe or stain stick, dabbing at the stain. Cover remaining stain with chalk or baby powder.

Blood

Use icy or cool water to blot at the stain from the out- er edges toward the center. Finish with mild, white soap solution, rinse carefully and blot dry. Never use warm or hot water as it only fixes the proteins in the blood tightly into the fabric.

The Wedding dress Book 6 4 The Wedding dress Book 6 5 Move like a queen

Most of us are not very used to moving around in a big dress. It might be that we don’t ever use anything as massive as a wedding gown with their full length skirts and layers of fabric. You might even feel clum- sy and strange in it. These tips make you more confi- dent and comfortable.

You probably won’t be able to run or jump in your dress. Take your time and enjoy moving with slower pace like the queen you are. Ramming yourself into tiny spaces and hurrying around makes you trip onto your own hem or rip it.

Kick the dress away while walking

While walking, kick the dress before you and let it hit your leg on each step. This way you don’t acciden- tally step on it as the dress will fall back as you move forward.

If you are new to heels practice walking with them before the big day. It is best to practice these things with just your underskirt at home or with other long skirt as not to dirty your wedding dress.

If you need to kneel down during ceremony lift your hem a bit when getting down so it doesn’t get stuck underneath your toes as you get back up.

The long train is handled bit like trailer in a car: you need more space for turning. Help the fabric find the right way with your hand and have your bridesmaids on hand to straighten it.

The Wedding dress Book 6 6 Push the hem to the side when sitting

Sitting down can be a bit of a challenge in a big dress. It is the easiest to sit in a chair that has no arms. You can use your calf to feel where the chair is exactly.

TIP! Talk with your maid Now would be a good time to have somebody to of honor and spouse before hold the chair for you (ask your spouse to do that the wedding day so they courtesy to you) as it will make sure the chair wont know how to help you with your dress if needed. slide away underneath you. With a corset you prob- ably can’t lean against the back of the chair but let the corset help you to keep upright.

It is good to use your hands to smooth the hem away from your backside before sitting down to avoid wrin- kles. If you have lots of fabric on top of your backside, like a , sit down slightly sideways on a chair so the bustle is not directry under your bum. Once down, you can your hem over your lap if needed so nobody will walk on your dress in a cramped dining area.

If you have a mermaid silhouetted dress or snug sheath dress remember to tug the hem bit upwards around your hips and thighs before sitting dow. This way the dress wont drag down from your back and bust as your back and bottom stretches longer than your front in a sitting down position.

Going to a bathroom is easiest with a big dress if you sit face towards the water tank. This way most of your dress isn’t in between the tank and your back.

If you have a hoop you can use it to lift the dress up and away. You can always ask your maid or spouse with you for some help. Just make sure that you have actually tried this before your wedding day.

The Wedding dress Book 6 6 The Wedding dress Book 6 7 The Wedding dress Book 6 8 A f t e r wa r d s

Putting the dress away after the wedding, selling or sewing to use it again.

Do at least this

Pick the dress up from the floor at least the morning after and put it back to the hanger. If you want to keep the dress as a memory or sell or donate it, the wedding dress should be clean.

Take it to the dry cleaner so the professionals can treat the stains, clean the dress and oxidize it if it stinks and steam it back to shape. Hang the dress well on the hanger in the clean cotton garment bag or pack it away into a clean, acid-free box with tissue paper.

The ruin of a dress

All clothes should be stored in a warm and dry space away from sunlight and strong smells. Often the clothes are ruined because of set stains and smells, mildew spots, dirt that crumbles the fabric away (silk is prone to this) or sun bleached colors (or any UV- light).

For storing the dress you don’t need to iron it. Ironing before a long storage period sometimes yellows the fabric. Also the ironing burns any stains and dirt into the fabric so they might be difficult or even impos- sible to clean afterwards.

The Wedding dress Book 6 8 The Wedding dress Book 6 9 If the dress has accessories like belt, detachable train or shoulder straps, store them close to dress or with it so they don’t disappear. The world is full of clothes that miss belts or other parts. Store the possible fab- ric leftover from alterations with the dress.

Saving the memories by keeping the dress

If you dream of keeping the dress as a keepsake for decades to come, right storing method is crucial. Never store your dress wrapped in a plastic bag for long times. The soft plastic crumples over time and leaks chemicals into the dress. These chemicals can turn the wedding dress yellow, make it stink or ap- pear as stains. Even if the dress looks okay the dry- cleaning chemicals might later react with the chem- icals leaked from the plastic and ruin the dress.

Cardboard box

The best way to store your wedding dress is to gently fold your dress into an acid-free cardboard box and pad it with acid-free tissue paper into its preferred shape. Do it so that there is no sharp folds that would bend or break the fibers of the fabric. You can add a silica bag in to the box to take care of the humidity. Just make sure it doesn’t touch the dress fabric with- out some kind of barrier like cotton or paper.

Storing your dress in a box makes sure that dress won’t get misshapen by stretching on a hanger and it is safe from uv-light and dust. You should always store the box flat on a dry place in room tempera- ture. The inner rooms of the house are great as there

The Wedding dress Book 7 0 is the smallest change for big temperature or hu- midity changes.

Take a look in every few years

TIP! You could include You should open the dress box at least every two dress unpacking into your years and unpack the dress to see if there is any as a changes or stains and get them treated right away. sweet, new tradition. If everything is good, pack the dress again in a lit- tle bit different way so the same parts are not con- stantly bended. This way your dress will be in a good shape years and years forward.

You can find acid-free boxes from the internet or bridal boutiques. Search for museum quality boxes for storing the clothes or turn to your closest mu- seum and ask where they get their supplies. Often quality boxes cost something between 20 to 70 euros or dollars depending where you get them and how much of extra things are delivered with it (like muslin clothes, bust forms etc.). The most important thing is, that they are as chemical-free as possible.

Get up to 50% off by reselling your dress

Selling your wedding dress is very ecological choice to make. There’s several different chanels to do so: wedding dress shops that buy it from you or resell it for you. Different internet sites where you pay a small fee to list your dress or the site takes a certain percent of your selling prize. You can put an add to your local graicklist or sell the dress in a facebook group. Some wedding have their own dress sell- ing events you can take part to.

The Wedding dress Book 7 0 The Wedding dress Book 7 1 As wedding trends come and go, the best way to sell your wedding dress is to be quick. After few years time, it is considerably harder to sell a dress that is no longer in style. On the other hand, after 15 to 20 years the dresses start to gain some retro appeal and are easier to sell again. There are also timeless styles like 1950’s dresses which are quite popular all the time. The potential buyer audience might be nar- rower but there is always someone to buy a quality vintage style dress.

Pictures and information sell well

TIP! Remember to pho- Best pictures to sell your wedding dress are the ones tograph any possible rips where you are wearing it on your wedding day. You and stains, so they don’t can frame the picture so that your head isn’t visible come as a surprise for a buyer. for privacy purposes. Then add few pictures where the dress is on a hanger, front and back plus some detail photos.

Try to keep the pictures clear. Natural light is the best for photographing as it doesn’t turn the colors off. You can always include one picture where you photograph some part of the dress on a basic white printer paper to give better view of the color.

You should ad the measurements of the chest and waist with the size of the dress, as the size measure- ments can vary in between the brands. Also tell the height and measurements of the last wearer of the dress (that’s you if you are selling your own gown). With this information a possible buyer can easily de- tect if the dress is going to fit them well.

Give the information of possible alterations and if you still have the extra fabric available. Write everything that is or isn’t included to the selling prize. These can

The Wedding dress Book 7 2 include the accessories like belt, train, bolero, gloves or a hoop skirt.

You should also give the name and brand of the dress and any other possible design elements that might help the possible buyer using search engines. The dress silhouette and color tone are good exam- ples. You can also use terms like ’with lace sleeves’ or ’with cathedral train’ to better describe the dress.

Keep the prize realistic

Often the garments have sentimental value to us, but the prospective buyer isn’t ready to pay for the good memories of the last wearer. They will also of- ten need to alter the dress for their own measures, so for them the prize is higher than for you.

Try to think what you would be ready to pay for some- thing similar in second-hand. You can expect to get about half of the prize you payed for your dress if there isn’t any big stains or rips. Remember that you have spend the money for your wedding dress al- ready and you are not getting it back fully.

Make the dress into something new

When the clothes weren’t as cheap and plentiful as now it was normal to reuse every piece of fabric you owned. My grandma used her wedding gown to sew lovely lace for both of her daughters. I still have one of them with me as a keepsake.

It was very typical to reuse the expensive lace again in a different dress or refashion the wedding dress into a or an evening gown. Even the

The Wedding dress Book 7 2 The Wedding dress Book 7 3 queen Victoria’s wedding lace from 19th century has been reused. The dress you can see at the museum is missing the original lace hem. Often the lace and big hem are great material to use again as there’s plenty of beautiful fabric.

Make sure you have good pictures of your wedding dress and get them printed before cutting into the fabric. This way there’s something to remember the original dress from.

Turning the dress into new keepsakes

TIP! The decorative parts There are plenty of beautiful keepsake ideas to turn such as lace and embroi- your dress into. Basically anything that you can make dery are often the parts out of white fabric is an idea worth checking out. you want to save and re- use so keep your eyes open If you are planning to have children in the future, for ideas that require lace or trims. consider making a christening or baptism gown out of your dress fabric. Some people have also sewn bassinet covers, but please keep the safe sleeping practices in mind when dressing infants beds. Stuffed toys or play dresses for little kids are lovely options.

Home textiles make wonderful keepsakes and are much easier to store than a big dress. Coverlets, quilts, pillows, table clothes, tree skirts and Christmas are all sweet ways to enjoy the wedding memories a year after year while creating new ones.

Clothes and accessories White dresses are fashionable right now so you can use your wedding dress again in other . Nice idea to use the wedding dress again is to wear it in wedding anniversary photoshoot with a different jacket of blouse.

The Wedding dress Book 7 4 To make the dress more casual unstitch the petti- and lose the train to slim the silhouette. Adding some colored details or colored overlay will change the look from bridal to cocktail. Shortening the dress works well with straight cut gowns.

Most of the time the bodice works well on its own and you can modify the hem to be a bit more practical. You can also ditch the hem altogether and just save the bodice of to be used with different skirts or trou- sers. You could also use the lace for some sensual underwear, evening gown or . If you are looking to completely refashion the dress consult a seam- stress.

Some fabrics can be dyed into different color. Silk, viscose and polyamide dye well and if your dress is not huge you can even dye it at home in a washing machine or in a big pot. If you’re planning to use your tub, be careful as the dyeing pigment can stain it.

TIP! The different materi- You should always test the fabric and threads as pol- als and parts in the dress yester and nylon won’t take basic fabric dyes. Some- can take the color differ- times the sewing threads are made of polyester and ently. Often lace parts will become darker. they will stay white. Just test it to see if they get dyed or not.

Most wedding dresses have plenty of fabric that can be used in accessories like purses, boleros, etc. Envelope clutch is easy to sew even if you have not sewn much before. You can also recycle the dress into little trinkets like jewelry or table decorations.

The wedding dress will live best in your memories of your wedding day and in your . Take care of those above all!

The Wedding dress Book 7 4 The Wedding dress Book 7 5 The Wedding dress Book 7 6 Closing words

Well wishes from the writer and editor

Your wedding dress is a piece of clothing as any other, but the feelings, hopes, dreams and symbolism make it so much more in our minds. In the end the fact is that it is a one of a kind dress for one of a kind situation, but you will wear beautiful things over and over again in the future.

Take these tips and advices and use them the best way you can. Every bride has their own personality and style so be truthful to yourself. The most important thing is that you are in love and marrying your best friend. You will be glowing no matter what!

Iida Silvennoinen (right) is the cocreator and designer for Fin- land based wedding brand Heili Bridal together with her parter Janina.

Iida has been working as a de- signer, seamstress, dresser and sales assistant at theatre and fashion for the last fifteen years along with her design studies.

Her wedding brand Heili Brid- al has been exhibited at Paris 2018. She’s an avid gardener and flower lover.

For more wedding inspiration follow Heili Bridal at Instagram and Pinterest. Head over to our website and blog at heilibridal.com for more tips and wedding aesthetics!

The Wedding dress Book 7 6

Find your perfect wedding dress and finish your wedding day look down into the last detail.

The Wedding Dress Book will…

Introduce you to the head spinning va- riety of dress styles • Challenge the be- lief you need thousands for your perfect wedding dress • Gain control and enjoy the searching and buying your wedding outfit • Reveal designer secrets to well fitting and comfortable wedding gown • Teach you how to take special care of your dress by yourself.