demystifying finishing for guys What to do if he thinks mousse is just a girly dessert. The same guy who wields a glue gun, a hockey stick or a corkscrew with massive confidence can become completely undone when faced with a styling product and a hairbrush. The fact is, anything beyond vigorous rubbing with a towel after the shower is a styling mystery to many men. But, says Thom, a little instruction and a few seconds of effort each morning can make a huge difference between grungy and well-groomed.

the rocker-with- long-locks finish (John Mayer, Ryan Eggold, Michael Steger, Rod Stewart, the curly/wavy/ the Rolling Stones) Styles come and go but some guys frizzy finish will never part with their rocker locks. Whether he opts for a ‘70s glam effect (Ryan Philippe, or a more tousled and casual effect, the classic Adrian Grenier, Nick Jonas) it’s wise to break out the brush and the faux hawk finish Curly hair is thirsty hair so moisture blow dryer, says Thom, to help longer finish is critical. Start with a cocktail hair take shape. He tells guys to apply (George Clooney, of leave-in conditioner and hair a bit of straightening gel (if hair is (Ryan Seacrest) Matt Damon, those adorable crème and apply to damp hair. (If curly) or mousse (if it’s fine) to damp strands and then use a blow dryer All of the action takes place Ralph Lauren models) hair is super-dry and frizzy, add a after the hair is shampooed few drops of styling oil to the mix. and a round brush, directing strands After shampooing, Thom applies a toward the face. When hair is dry, he and dry with this look. Select a “Every curly texture is different,” strong-hold pomade, one that light holding product like mousse Thom comments, “so you have shows them how to take a nickel- to damp strands, parts the hair sized dab of pomade, work it into will make the hair stiff but not to experiment with each client.”) sticky. “I prefer a pomade to and then lets it dry completely. Massage into hair and then, hands hands and pinch it into top sections “This ‘sets’ the hair,” he explains, to prevent strands from looking too a gel,” Thom notes, “because off! “The moisture in the products gels can make the hair too “and controls the texture.” Next, will encourage a controlled and fluffy. “Then I have them go back he breaks up strands with a brush and massage the pomade through,” sharp.” Then, working from the consistent curl formation,” says back, and from the sides, get or with his hands and adds a dab Thom, “and tame the frizz. So tell he says. Critical tip? Go easy on the of pomade for shine and unfussy goop! Apply product sparingly—it’s your hands in there and firmly the guy to leave it alone once it’s direct all of the hair upward. texture. “Pomades and styling dry to avoid disturbing the curl.” easier to add more than to remove crèmes are my go-to products for too much. And if the guy does go Finally, use your fingers to guys,” he comments, “because the overboard on pomade or wax, a little pinch the tips of the faux-hawk hair remains touchable rather than dry shampoo or powder will soak up lengths to create little spikes. stiff or crunchy.” the excess.

94 behindthechair.com chapter | title thom priano boys and curls Help your guys sport their loopy locks with pride, and avoid hair ‘fro-stration. Curls have come a long way. Thanks to clever cutting techniques, an array of curl-friendly care and styling products and even a few tricks from the chemistry department, Thom keeps his curly clients on the path to cool style.

Will.I.Am Orlando Bloom Russell Brand Eric Dane

Dry cutting is the best way to shape Cropped curls are manageable curls. Notch curl tips for better curl flow. For easy, tousled style, work cream extremely curly textures. or oil into damp hair, finger style and don’t touch it again! the kindest cuts for curl Every curly head is different, says Thom, so watch curls carefully and to take their curls down a notch. “We have one client at the salon with work with them as you cut. If the hair is extremely frizzy or kinky, he opts shoulder length hair and he loves the service,” says Thom. “Another one to cut it dry, so that he can see it take shape as he sculpts. “If it’s a looser, wears his hair short on the sides and longer on top and he has it done on more manageable curl,” he says, “I’ll start cutting it damp and keep going the longer sections. It’s quick—it takes less than an hour.” as it dries, watching the curls form and shaping them accordingly.” product is mandatory, not optional If your guy is a zero-maintenance type who has no interest in wrangling “Using the right products is the only way you are going to get a beautiful his curls each morning (ie: most NBA players) grab your clipper, pop on curl,” Thom declares. “Otherwise, it’s the ‘60s all over again—the hair will the number one blade and buzz it to the scalp. If he can manage a bit be a big ball of fuzz!” of hair management, scissor it to an easy-care two inch length, perhaps with tighter sides, a la Orlando Bloom. If he’s up for a styling commitment, Thom loves creamy shampoos and leave-in conditioners for guys— give him a longer look with loose, tousled curls by creating the outline because, he says, “you can never over-condition frizzy hair.” If curl is with blunt cutting, and then notching into the tips (no higher than ¼ inch) tight, apply styling cream or oil to damp hair. Position the curls with of the curls to encourage gentle unfurling. Ditto for the long-hair, Russell fingertips and let strands air dry. If the natural curl is softer, opt for a Brand types. If your guy’s strands are on the skinny side, though, skip the lighter styling cream and maybe a couple of drops of serum on the ends. snipping into the ends. “Stick to blunt cutting if the hair is thinning,” says “Once the hair is dry,” says Thom, “tell your client never to touch it again. Thom. “Don’t cut into the curl at all.” Anytime you disturb curl, you get a mess. If he does disrupt the outside layer, show him how to put some cream or serum in his hands and crunch better curls through chemistry it into the ends.” If your curly/kinky client wants a little help in the control department, try Finally, remember, every head of curls is completely different, so your easing the texture with a relaxer. With guys, says Thom, it’s a quick on guys might need to experiment with various styling cocktails until they and off—process just long enough to relax the curl slightly but maintain find the perfect recipe! movement. Many guys are also embracing keratin smoothing treatments

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thom priano bye-bye bieber it’s time to groom your guys For some time now, fashion-savvy males have been flocking to their stylists and demanding the shaggy, eye-grazing shape made popular by ‘tween heartthrob Justin Bieber. Now, declares grooming expert Thom Priano, get ready for the Bieber backlash. “It’s time to grow up,” Thom says, “and get that hair up and off of the face. The result is so much more adult and sexier.” Young celebs like Zac Efron and Daniel Radcliffe have already gotten the memo— they’ve snipped their little-boy mops into structured, tapered cuts that intensify their masculinity by accentuating cheekbones and jawlines. What makes these groomed shapes modern, says Thom, are the slightly disheveled, texturized front and crown lengths. “These cuts also look great with a crisp, smooth finish,” Thom notes.

now now now

then then then

New York Jets Quarterback Mark Sanchez traded Zac Efron’s makeover was uplifting…and shifted his Daniel Radcliffe left Harry Potter—and Harry’s his floppy curls for crisp grooming. appeal from ‘tweens to adults. kiddie cut—behind.

the anti-bieber cut Turn to classic barbering techniques like clipper cutting or scissor-over-comb to keep the back and sides close, says Thom. Top lengths should be no more than two or style points three inches on top and as short as an inch in front. If the client wants to retain a bit Depending upon the hair type, Thom usually of length and permimeter texture—like David Beckham or New England quarterback finishes these looks like this: Tom Brady—cut with scissors rather than scissor-over-comb or clippers. Texturize top 1. Using just the hands, remove all moisture lengths with scissor tips or thinning shears. with a blow dryer, directing hair upward and away from the face. color trends 2. Apply a small amount of malleable pomade These new cuts look great with subtle highlights, says Thom, especially if the guy has a to lengths and finger-style. medium-brown base. Avoid chunky sections—instead, create extremely fine foil weaves and place them throughout the lengths. Work on damp hair to help keep foils in place. If the client has a strong, forward growth Lift with color, not bleach, to avoid the need to tone. Use a permanent shade that is two pattern, apply a firm-hold gel to damp strands, levels lighter than the base to produce a subtle, one-level lift without visible regrowth. comb hair straight back and air dry or dry with heat. Break up top lengths with your fingers and work in a bit of pomade to add for more men’s styling shine and maintain separation. Finally, if the natural texture is frizzy or super-curly, a keratin smoothing treatment can provide control. search: colorthom 96 behindthechair.com chapter | title

thom priano what’s in thom’s kit?

22 Indispensable Tools and Products for On-The-Set Grooming Whether he’s grooming J. Edgar’s Miles Fisher for a session for GQ or working on the Ralph Lauren Black Label campaign, Thom makes like a Boy Scout—always prepared. That means stocking his kit with the tools and products he knows will never fail him, and having the right aids on hand for every possible hair type and assignment. “My kit is always changing,” Thom reveals, “because you have to keep testing new things.” Right now, Thom has zeroed in on these items as his must-haves on the set, and tells us why.

Tools Nic shears and thinning shears, Oster Cool Vibes Clippers ADST Mini Ceramic Flat Iron five inches “I use this with the clip-on guard for clean-up “Sometimes you need to quickly smooth “When I started my career I worked with and for blending the ‘in-between’ lengths I certain sections of hair.” smaller shears. Ultimately I’ve discovered that can’t get to with the Classic 76.” Champion Hard Rubber 16 Inch longer blades give me more precise control.” Andis T-Edjer Comb, Fanike Wide Tooth Comb Feather Razor “I use this to edge the hairline and cut designs and Mason Pearson Brush “I’m never without a razor and this one in the hair.” “The first one is my cutting comb, the other performs.” Babyliss Pro Forfex Deluxe two are indispensable for styling.” Oster Classic 76 Clippers Finishing Trimmer Water Bottle “It comes with interchangeable blades from “It’s pencil thin and perfect for cleaning up “Might be the most important of all! It’s for 000 to 3.75. I feel that these blades provide the neck hair and rogue facial hairs.” wetting down the hair for a haircut. Plus I’ll cleanest cut.” Twin Turbo 3200 Ceramic Ionic often skip product and just spritz the hair with Blow Dryer With Diffuser water to restyle.” Attachment “It’s 1800 watts, so it dries the hair quickly.” Products Garren New York Design Spray Remino Dry Wax Soft #4 For Real Garren New York Styling Crème, Tonic “This is another Japanese product—I use it for Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling “This is always my first choice. I use it on shine. It doesn’t give much hold.” Cream, Kérastase Lumiere everyone—men and women. It contains no Nutri-Sculpt alcohol, it promotes shine, it gives body and Rene Furterer Styling Wax “All three are great for adding moisture to control. It’s great for setting, blow drying or “My new favorite! I use it on my own hair—it dry hair, and for curl definition and taming drying the hair naturally.” provides great control and shine.” flyaways.” Schwarzkopf OSIS+ Dust It Supremo Magic Move L’Oreal Elnett Hairspray “This Japanese pomade comes in Light, Soft Mattifying Powder “Yes, this hairspray Hall of Famer is even great and Hard. I can use it all day on the set and it “Another new product that I love. It absorbs for guys. It’s the best because it’s dry, not wet, never builds up.” the excess if there is build-up at the end of the day. I sprinkle it into my hands and work it in— so once I apply it, I can comb through it and it revives droopy hair.” it’s never sticky.”

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97 behindthechair.com chapter | title

The style evolved to a crisper and more groomed version on the Versace Men runway in Milan this season.

Photo: Craig McDean from Interview Magazine Photo:

Interview Interview Magazine from McDean Craig Photo:

Actor Michael Penn’s Prohibition-style thom priano cut is the epitome of gangster chic.

gangster chic gangster chic cut The Hottest Men’s Cut of the Season how-to When Boardwalk Empire debuted on HBO, aficionados buzzed about Here’s how Thom does the the show’s unblinking violence and Prohibition-era chic looks. One disconnected haircut: of the standout characters was Michael Pitt’s Jimmy Darmody, the 1. Create a v-shaped top section from the middle doomed heir and war hero who met an untimely end at the conclusion of the brow or the recession point back to the of Season Two. But Jimmy’s haircut—buzzed short on the sides, left top of the occipital and clip it away. long on top and waxed to a high shine—continues to build momentum 2. Using a clipper and #2 guard attachment, clip as the hottest men’s cut to emerge for many seasons. the side and back sections. 3. Switch to a #1 guard and blend the nape and “I love this retro modern gangster cut!” declares Thom. “It’s an evolution of the faux side sections into the #2 areas to produce a hawk, really. We started shaving off the sides and leaving a thicker, longer top area and tapered fade. this is what developed.” 4. With an edger, edge the sides and back to In addition to the Boardwalk Empire gun-runners and speakeasy proprietors, variations of create a crisp, tailored line. the cut are popping up on fashion runways worldwide. “All the guys on the runways are 5. Release the top section. Part the hair down the wearing this cut, or some sort of adaptation,” agrees Thom. center, as if you are going to cut a bob. The top section is where the “personality” of the wearer and the vision of the stylist 6. Hold subsections perpendicular to the head comes in—it can be anywhere from an inch to five inches long. The section can be swept to avoid layering and to limit graduation and back or styled to flop over one eye. For an avant garde finish, says Thom, groom the hair cut to the desired (longer) length. For shorter so that it’s shiny and slightly wet looking. He likes Rene Furterer Styling Wax because it lengths, create a design line around the head. promotes a thick, glossy texture that lasts all day. For a more conservative finish, style the Comb the front section forward, create the lengths with a formula like Supremo Magic Move or American Crew Defining Paste, desired length, then work back to the crown, which offers medium hold and minimal shine. blending the front and back design lines. “It’s fun to play with color with this cut, too,” says Thom. “Create a lighter top section for dramatic contrast.” Get more men’s hair tips “It’s a great cut,” he concludes, “because it works for everyone if they’re daring enough to do it. And it can be adapted into a more conservative version if they’re not!” search: thom

98 behindthechair.com chapter | title the fab four Modern methods for a quartet of iconic men’s hairstyles Buttoned-up or Bohemian? Military crisp or adorably adolescent? Most guys fall into one of these four style categories, and each category embraces a signature haircut. No matter how unstudied a guy’s overall look may be, says men’s style expert Thom Priano, it’s important to execute each cut correctly, and make sure to update the traditional look with the right details and finishing.

G.I. Joe the shape: High and tight, slightly disconnected. the cut: Crop the sides and back, up to the recession point and crown, using an Oster clipper with a #1 guard. Switch to a #2 or #3 guard for the top section, depending on desired length. the finish: Polish all strands with a light pomade or texturizing formula. thom says: “In order to create any man’s cut that is fitted to the head, it’s essential to own a clipper with all of the attachments in order to get the desired sections as close to the head as necessary. My favorite at the moment is the Oster Turbo 77.” the modern twist: A visible line of demarcation between thom priano the cropped sides and top lengths. Adam Levine

Daniel Radcliffe Zac Efron Chris Hemsworth

Schoolboy Swagger Classic Bohemian Shag the shape: Well-tailored side and back The shape: Sides, back and top are evenly balanced the shape: Long and layered sections with a boyish, eye-grazing fringe. with a rounded design line. the cut: When men’s hair is long the cut: Create the desired length on the The cut: Create the side and back lengths with an it should be layered in the same sides and back with a #4 or #5 clipper guard. Oster clipper and a #5 guard. Direct the top lengths manner as a woman’s layered cut. Direct the top section forward and create the forward and create a rounded fringe section. Lift the “I like the shortest layer to hit just design line with shears, blending the lengths center section straight up and create the desired below the eye,” says Thom, “and with the side. The fringe should be cut in a length by snipping the ends with the tips of the the lengths can extend from the slight V-shape, with the longest point in the scissors. Work to each side in this manner, using chin to the top of the shoulder.” center. Lift a vertical section from the longest each previous section as a guide. the finish: Avoid puffy, blow-dried point to the crown and snip into the tips. The finish: Mist damp hair with setting spray, create a looks. Opt for “day old” textures, Work to each side in this manner, using the side part and allow strands to dry until they’re firm. created with pomade and styled previously-cut section as a guide. Soften with a brush, add a bit of pomade to the top close to the head. the finish: Work a light pomade with plenty of and comb or finger-style into the desired shape. the modern twist: Facial hair— movement through the lengths. The modern twist: Spike the lengths with deep notch whether it’s a rugged stubble or the modern twist: Texturize the lengths so that cutting to increase the texture in the top section. a full beard—creates the modern, they don’t appear heavy or solid. masculine, rebel vibe. 99 behindthechair.com chapter | title

hair rules for guy clients Avoiding “trunk neck” and other strategies for stellar service In the chair and at home, there are many ways to elevate your service and your guy’s style I.Q. Here are 10 of Thom’s smart rules for better men’s business and better men’s design. Practice Product Portion Control It’s important to use a great grooming product to give your guy polish, but start slow—you can always add more. “If the hair doesn’t move within 10 or 15 minutes after it’s dry,” says Thom, “you’re using too much product, unless you’re going for a stiffly gelled look.” And be sure to demonstrate the correct amount to your client. “Put it right into his hand,” Thom suggests, “so he can see precisely how much to apply.” Earn Brow-nie Points Proper brow grooming is an essential part of any men’s service. “I ask my clients to refrain from using brow clippers,” says Thom. “These tools take the hair so short it looks like a beard! I also discourage them from letting their wives or girlfriends shape their brows because they tend to create a shape that is too feminine.” Instead, simply comb brows in the natural growth thom priano direction and trim the longer ends to maintain a natural, masculine shape. Stay High and Dry If a client has thinning hair, stick to dry finishing products. “Wet products—like greasy pomades—tend to separate strands and reveal the scalp,” Thom points out. “Dryer products help make hair look thicker.” Conduct Shampoo Class Most guys dump on the shampoo in the shower each morning and go at it. But manhandling and scratching can damage the root and irritate the scalp. Instead, demonstrate a gentle massage technique using the pads of the fingers instead of fingernails. It’s a kinder, gentler strategy for hair and scalp. Avoid “Trunk Neck” If a guy has a large, thick neck, a solid, blunt nape line will accentuate the girth. Instead, use clippers with a #1 guard to etch in a line that follows and blends the shape of the natural hairline. Lock In The Next Visit Few guys are big on making plans—and that includes haircuts. As a result, a cut that should be refreshed every four weeks can easily become neglected for months. “Try to get him to prebook before he leaves,” advises Thom. “If that doesn’t work, give him a call or send a text or email after three weeks with a friendly reminder.” If all else fails, contact his wife and ask her to send him in. Now Ear This Don’t remove the cape until you’ve trimmed those little ear and nose sprouts for a perfect finish. Thom gets the job done with an Oster’s “The Petite” O’Baby Clipper and tries to convince his guys to pick up a trimming tool to use at home, too. Improve His Strokes Most guys are pretty deft with house painting brushes, but hair brushes? Not so much. “Guys Give guys a grooming product generally don’t brush their hair at all,” comments Thom, “but a session with a boar bristle demo after the cut to ensure brush before bed each night is a great way to massage the scalp and bring oil through to the proper usage and application. ends so that the hair doesn’t dry out.” Hair by Thom Priano For Garren New York Towel Dry, Then Apply Water dilutes vinegar, scotch…and styling products. To make sure your gels, creams and lotions are working at full strength, towel or rough-dry strands before applying. “Every application is different,” Thom notes, “so read the manufacturer’s instructions for each product.” Face Reality There are six to nine face shapes, which means that one haircut does not fit all. “Study each face shape carefully,” advises Thom, “and design the cut and facial hair accordingly. For example, leaving hair on the forehead or in back can slim a full face, as can longer sideburns. And a beard is a great way to reduce a double chin!” 100 behindthechair.com chapter | title

Nick Lachey

David Beckham

thom priano the square face

how do you know? The forehead and the jaw are the same width. design theory famous faces: David Beckham, Nick Lachey design strategies: Keep the back short to accentuate the jaw, and Custom strategies that make the cut leave the top a bit longer to soften the forehead. When a guy settles into your chair, it’s tempting to give him the old snip-and-clip haircut-by- Ryan Gosling the-numbers. Resist the temptation! Because - when it comes to men, one cut does not fit all! Justin Timberlake It’s important to assess a guy’s face shape and features, and then design your cut accordingly. A bespoke approach to hair design pays off. Your guy may not understand exactly why he looks better than his buddies, but he will understand that you’re responsible—and that’s good enough for him! Here’s a primer from Thom, groomer to the stars. (“Mr. Priano, Mr. Pitt is ready for you now!) He reveals the best design strategies for every facial shape. If you want to rule the men’s world, these are insights worth memorizing!

Jude Law Barry Watson the triangle face

how do you know? The forehead is considerably narrower than the jawline. famous faces: Justin Timberlake, Ryan Gosling design strategies: Style the hair away from the face to open up the forehead, and keep the hair fuller in the temple area to balance the narrowness.

the oval face

how do you know? This face shape is the ideal. Cheekbones are slightly wider than the forehead and jawline and slightly above the center of the face.

famous faces: Barry Watson, Jude Law photography: JonathanTimber Hordle/Rex/Rex USA/BEImages USA/BEImages (David (Nick Lachey); Mattphotography: Beckham); Picture Perfect/Rex Baron/BEImages (Justin design strategies: Anything goes for this client, so play up his best lake); Stewart Cook/Rex USA/BEImages USA/BEImages (Ryan David (Jude Law) Gosling); MattWatson); Fisher/Rex/Rex Baron/BEImages (Barry feature—eyes, lips, etc.—with your design decisions. 101 behindthechair.com chapter | title

Kiefer Sutherland

Prince Charles

the oblong face Pete Wentz how do you know? This face shape is longer than it is wide. David Cook famous faces: Kiefer Sutherland, Prince Charles design strategies: Create a low side part and leave some the heart-shaped face fullness on the sides to create the illusion of width. how do you know? The heart is the opposite of the triangle— the forehead is wider and the face comes to a point at the chin.

Elijah Wood famous faces: Pete Wentz, David Cook design strategies: Minimize the width at the forehead with a soft fringe. Consider a goatee to broaden the chin.

the round face

how do you know? The widest part of a round face is straight across the cheekbones, and this facial shape is as long as it is wide.

famous faces: Elijah Wood, Jack Black design strategies: Create a side part with a fringe and leave the hair a bit longer to break up the round shape. Also, encourage your client to work with facial hair if possible. Longer sideburns or a beard will soften the sphere.

photography: Carolyn Contino/BEImages (Kiefer Sutherland); Willi Schneider/Rex USA/BEImages (Prince Charles); Jim Smeal/BEImages (Pete Wentz); Charles Sykes/Rex USA/BEImages (David Cook); Joseph Jack Black Kerlakian/Rex/Rex USA/BEImages (Elijah Wood); Peter Brooker /Rex USA/BEImages (Jack Black); Karl Prouse/Catwalking (Versace); Craig McDean for Interview (Michael Pitt); Giuseppe Cacace (Versace)

designing men More design secrets, feature by feature.

…if the nose is large: “Personally I don’t think a large nose is a flaw,” remarks Thom, “so I generally don’t try to camouflage the feature. But if a guy is self-conscious about his nose, keep the hair a bit longer and style it off of the face.” …if the ears are large: “Let the hair grow over the tips of the ears and use it to fill in the area just behind the ears. This creates a shadow effect and the eye sees more of the hair and less of the ear.” …if the chin is soft: “I always recommend facial hair for these clients,” says Thom. “You can sculpt it into any shape to balance or correct a soft chin. Sideburns are also effective ways to rebalance a soft chin.”

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Brad Pitt Chris Hemsworth thom priano long: rough and tumble “Long hair is a signature for certain guys,” Thom observes. “They like the fact that it says, ‘I don’t really care about my hair,’ when in fact they really do!” 2013 men’s trends: Thom was booked to groom Brad Pitt for the current Chanel campaign and the long and short of it Chris Hemsworth for GQ. Here are his tips for guys who go to great lengths: · Layer the hair to enhance the face shape. To make layers look masculine, cut deeply into Guys generally embrace a signature length for the sections to create a chunky, rough texture. their hair—whether it’s long and lusty or clipped · Never blow-dry long hair—it will look fluffy and feminine. Instead, towel dry and then and no-nonsense. But even though he may not apply styling crème or pomade to enhance and define the texture. be open to a length adjustment, it’s important · It’s a fine line between groomed and greasy, so don’t go overboard on the styling to keep your guy’s shape and style current. products or locks can go limp. Start with a dime-sized amount of product, and add more Here, Thom identifies the top trends for short, if necessary. medium and long lengths, and illustrates his · Once the hair is more than a couple of inches past the shoulders, it’s time for a trim. points with images from his recent projects. Any longer and it loses its shape and movement.

Justin Timberlake

Eli Lieb

short: controlled texture Jake Gyllenhall Skinned is no longer in. Short hair is a bit longer right now, but still cropped enough to control unruly textures. To medium: up and away control the curls of Justin Timberlake, Thom used Oster Hello eyes! After several years of brow-grazing fringes, medium lengths are Clippers with a #3 guard on the sides and in back, blending heading up and back. “Directing the hair off of the face is very flattering to into a two-inch top section, which was cut with scissors. He the bone structure,” Thom comments. (It certainly suits Nacho, Jake and the controls singer Eli Lieb’s curls with a keratin straightening James Dean lookalike in the Acqua Di Gio campaign!) treatment, and cuts the sides and back with a #4 guard and the 3-inch lengths with scissors. Justin’s hair is “set” with a The cut: All of these cuts were done with 5- to 6-inch scissors. Sides are about an inch combination of setting gel and mousse, then finished with and the top sections are no longer than two inches. Follow the shape of the head as you pomade once it dries. Eli’s finish begins with a rough—dry cut to produce a squared-off shape. with the blow dryer, followed by a firm molding paste on the The finish: Apply mousse or styling spray to damp hair, comb into place and air dry. top sections to create the spiky texture. Emulsify a bit of dry or light, waxy pomade between hands and work through the top, back and sides to create texture and shine. 103 behindthechair.com chapter | title

thom priano

Control longer lengths like Justin Timberlake’s classic crop how to groom Bradley Cooper’s with a flexible will wear well in the wedding the groom styling pomade. album for years to come.

smart strategies when tell him, and show him. If your groom doesn’t think that his wedding day look is important, do him a favor and tell him otherwise. He’ll thank you guys get hitched for it when he sees his smart self in all of his wedding photos. Better yet, show him. Many salons put together look books for brides, says Thom, but it’s also a great idea to assemble a portfolio of men’s looks. Find photos of good looking grooms at elegant Brides and their bridesmaids are weddings to demonstrate the importance of looking smart and polished at the altar. accustomed to months of pre- wedding planning and pampering— make it a grooming party. Stylists should always provide “the they plan their updos, plot out their extras” when doing men’s haircuts, says Thom, and that includes grooming facial hair, nose hair and ear hair, and shaping the brows. If that’s not the case when you work with wedding day haircolor, pick out their male clients, make a point of doing so when you’re prepping the groom. Better yet, says nuptial nail color—all to ensure head- Thom, bring in the best man and the ushers, too, and give them all the royal treatment. to-toe perfection when they walk “Guys are often more comfortable trying new things when they’re with their buddies,” down the aisle. As for their guys? Thom points out. Who knows? They may even be willing to go for more grooming— manicures, pedicures, facials, massage…the works! “And don’t leave it until the morning They might remember to stop off for a of the wedding,” Thom advises. “He’ll need to look good for the rehearsal dinner and all of haircut on the day of the wedding, but the other pre-wedding events, too.” often that’s as far as his wedding day grooming goes. steer him to a classic cut. His wedding day is not the time to let his freak flag fly. That mullet or Mohawk will not look cool when he looks at his wedding Big mistake, believes Thom. While pictures 20 years from now. “There are two classic options for a wedding day haircut,” the bride is certainly the one in the Thom believes. “A cropped look, a la Justin Timberlake, or a slightly longer look like the spotlight all day, her guy is right by one sported recently by Bradley Cooper.” For the short cut, use a number four clipper to cut the nape and sides and leave 1½ to 2 inches on top. Use a scissor-over-comb her side. As a result, he’s center technique to blend the lengths. Blending is critical when it comes to the longer version too. stage, too. So it’s up to stylists to Thom leaves the back and sides an inch or two longer than the shorter crop, and leaves educate their grooms-to-be on the up to four inches on top. To finish the short cut, apply styling gel to damp hair and once importance of doing some pre- it’s dry, break it up with a touchable pomade and your hands. For the longer version, you’ll just need the pomade. “It’s really important to use a product you can move your hands wedding planning of their own. Here through,” says Thom. “You want the bride to be able to run her fingers through her new are Thom’s tips for producing a well- husband’s hair!” groomed groom. Get more men’s hair tips

search: thom 104 behindthechair.com