demystifying finishing for guys What to do if he thinks mousse is just a girly dessert. The same guy who wields a glue gun, a hockey stick or a corkscrew with massive confidence can become completely undone when faced with a styling product and a hairbrush. The fact is, anything beyond vigorous rubbing with a towel after the shower is a styling mystery to many men. But, says Thom, a little instruction and a few seconds of effort each morning can make a huge difference between grungy and well-groomed. the rocker-with- long-locks finish (John Mayer, Ryan Eggold, Michael Steger, Rod Stewart, the curly/wavy/ the Rolling Stones) Styles come and go but some guys frizzy finish will never part with their rocker locks. Whether he opts for a ‘70s glam effect (Ryan Philippe, or a more tousled and casual effect, the classic Adrian Grenier, Nick Jonas) it’s wise to break out the brush and the faux hawk blow dryer, says Thom, to help longer finish Curly hair is thirsty hair so moisture finish is critical. Start with a cocktail hair take shape. He tells guys to apply (George Clooney, of leave-in conditioner and hair a bit of straightening gel (if hair is (Ryan Seacrest) Matt Damon, those adorable crème and apply to damp hair. (If curly) or mousse (if it’s fine) to damp strands and then use a blow dryer All of the action takes place Ralph Lauren models) hair is super-dry and frizzy, add a after the hair is shampooed few drops of styling oil to the mix. and a round brush, directing strands After shampooing, Thom applies a toward the face. When hair is dry, he and dry with this look. Select a “Every curly texture is different,” strong-hold pomade, one that light holding product like mousse Thom comments, “so you have shows them how to take a nickel- to damp strands, parts the hair sized dab of pomade, work it into will make the hair stiff but not to experiment with each client.”) sticky. “I prefer a pomade to and then lets it dry completely. Massage into hair and then, hands hands and pinch it into top sections “This ‘sets’ the hair,” he explains, to prevent strands from looking too a gel,” Thom notes, “because off! “The moisture in the products gels can make the hair too “and controls the texture.” Next, will encourage a controlled and fluffy. “Then I have them go back he breaks up strands with a brush and massage the pomade through,” sharp.” Then, working from the consistent curl formation,” says back, and from the sides, get or with his hands and adds a dab Thom, “and tame the frizz. So tell he says. Critical tip? Go easy on the of pomade for shine and unfussy goop! Apply product sparingly—it’s your hands in there and firmly the guy to leave it alone once it’s direct all of the hair upward. texture. “Pomades and styling dry to avoid disturbing the curl.” easier to add more than to remove crèmes are my go-to products for too much. And if the guy does go Finally, use your fingers to guys,” he comments, “because the overboard on pomade or wax, a little pinch the tips of the faux-hawk hair remains touchable rather than dry shampoo or powder will soak up lengths to create little spikes. stiff or crunchy.” the excess. 94 behindthechair.com chapter | title thom priano boys and curls Help your guys sport their loopy locks with pride, and avoid hair ‘fro-stration. Curls have come a long way. Thanks to clever cutting techniques, an array of curl-friendly care and styling products and even a few tricks from the chemistry department, Thom keeps his curly clients on the path to cool style. Will.I.Am Orlando Bloom Russell Brand Eric Dane Dry cutting is the best way to shape Cropped curls are manageable curls. Notch curl tips for better curl flow. For easy, tousled style, work cream extremely curly textures. or oil into damp hair, finger style and don’t touch it again! the kindest cuts for curl Every curly head is different, says Thom, so watch curls carefully and to take their curls down a notch. “We have one client at the salon with work with them as you cut. If the hair is extremely frizzy or kinky, he opts shoulder length hair and he loves the service,” says Thom. “Another one to cut it dry, so that he can see it take shape as he sculpts. “If it’s a looser, wears his hair short on the sides and longer on top and he has it done on more manageable curl,” he says, “I’ll start cutting it damp and keep going the longer sections. It’s quick—it takes less than an hour.” as it dries, watching the curls form and shaping them accordingly.” product is mandatory, not optional If your guy is a zero-maintenance type who has no interest in wrangling “Using the right products is the only way you are going to get a beautiful his curls each morning (ie: most NBA players) grab your clipper, pop on curl,” Thom declares. “Otherwise, it’s the ‘60s all over again—the hair will the number one blade and buzz it to the scalp. If he can manage a bit be a big ball of fuzz!” of hair management, scissor it to an easy-care two inch length, perhaps with tighter sides, a la Orlando Bloom. If he’s up for a styling commitment, Thom loves creamy shampoos and leave-in conditioners for guys— give him a longer look with loose, tousled curls by creating the outline because, he says, “you can never over-condition frizzy hair.” If curl is with blunt cutting, and then notching into the tips (no higher than ¼ inch) tight, apply styling cream or oil to damp hair. Position the curls with of the curls to encourage gentle unfurling. Ditto for the long-hair, Russell fingertips and let strands air dry. If the natural curl is softer, opt for a Brand types. If your guy’s strands are on the skinny side, though, skip the lighter styling cream and maybe a couple of drops of serum on the ends. snipping into the ends. “Stick to blunt cutting if the hair is thinning,” says “Once the hair is dry,” says Thom, “tell your client never to touch it again. Thom. “Don’t cut into the curl at all.” Anytime you disturb curl, you get a mess. If he does disrupt the outside layer, show him how to put some cream or serum in his hands and crunch better curls through chemistry it into the ends.” If your curly/kinky client wants a little help in the control department, try Finally, remember, every head of curls is completely different, so your easing the texture with a relaxer. With guys, says Thom, it’s a quick on guys might need to experiment with various styling cocktails until they and off—process just long enough to relax the curl slightly but maintain find the perfect recipe! movement. Many guys are also embracing keratin smoothing treatments 95 behindthechair.com chapter | title thom priano bye-bye bieber it’s time to groom your guys For some time now, fashion-savvy males have been flocking to their stylists and demanding the shaggy, eye-grazing shape made popular by ‘tween heartthrob Justin Bieber. Now, declares grooming expert Thom Priano, get ready for the Bieber backlash. “It’s time to grow up,” Thom says, “and get that hair up and off of the face. The result is so much more adult and sexier.” Young celebs like Zac Efron and Daniel Radcliffe have already gotten the memo— they’ve snipped their little-boy mops into structured, tapered cuts that intensify their masculinity by accentuating cheekbones and jawlines. What makes these groomed shapes modern, says Thom, are the slightly disheveled, texturized front and crown lengths. “These cuts also look great with a crisp, smooth finish,” Thom notes. now now now then then then New York Jets Quarterback Mark Sanchez traded Zac Efron’s makeover was uplifting…and shifted his Daniel Radcliffe left Harry Potter—and Harry’s his floppy curls for crisp grooming. appeal from ‘tweens to adults. kiddie cut—behind. the anti-bieber cut Turn to classic barbering techniques like clipper cutting or scissor-over-comb to keep the back and sides close, says Thom. Top lengths should be no more than two or style points three inches on top and as short as an inch in front. If the client wants to retain a bit Depending upon the hair type, Thom usually of length and permimeter texture—like David Beckham or New England quarterback finishes these looks like this: Tom Brady—cut with scissors rather than scissor-over-comb or clippers. Texturize top 1. Using just the hands, remove all moisture lengths with scissor tips or thinning shears. with a blow dryer, directing hair upward and away from the face. color trends 2. Apply a small amount of malleable pomade These new cuts look great with subtle highlights, says Thom, especially if the guy has a to lengths and finger-style. medium-brown base. Avoid chunky sections—instead, create extremely fine foil weaves and place them throughout the lengths. Work on damp hair to help keep foils in place. If the client has a strong, forward growth Lift with color, not bleach, to avoid the need to tone. Use a permanent shade that is two pattern, apply a firm-hold gel to damp strands, levels lighter than the base to produce a subtle, one-level lift without visible regrowth.