Long and Lean Leave It to Nicolas Ghesquière to Transform the Classic Essentials of French Style Into Something Fresh

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s EYE: RETAIL: WWDTREND: FASHION: Who’s showing where so far Partying Gregory Scott Pre-fall during New York Fashion Week, page 8. on after out as Bebe collections the Golden Stores’ chief get graphic, Globes, executive page 8. page 4. officer, page 2.

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • January 13, 2009 • $3.00

WReady-to-Wear/TextileswDTUESDAY Long and Lean Leave it to Nicolas Ghesquière to transform the classic essentials of French style into something fresh. For his pre-fall collection for Balenciaga, Ghesquière is doing modern riffs on such pieces as the pencil skirt and gray flannel pants, as the linear dress here shows. The designer also spikes his chic looks with such details as Chewbacca mittens, puffy quilted bags and Space Age heels. For more on the new season, see pages 6 and 7.

Shopping Is So Passé: Wal-Mart CEO Foresees New Consumer Mind-set By Sharon Edelson NEW YORK — The economy will turn around some day — but don’t expect conspicuous consumption to make a comeback. So believes H. Lee Scott, chief executive officer of Wal-Mart Stores Inc., noting the dismal economy has caused a permanent and fundamental change in consumer behavior. The ceo of the world’s largest retailer spoke at the opening session of the National Retail Federation’s 98th annual convention and expo here Monday morning. In what he called his last public speech as Wal-Mart’s ceo — he’ll be succeeded by Mike Duke on Feb. 1 — Scott predicted the first half of 2009 will be “extraordinarily challenging. In the second half you’ll have a rough spot against the stimulus package. It will be moderately better See Wal-Mart’s, Page 11 PHOTO BY FRANCK MURA FRANCK PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 13, 2009 WWD.COM Scott Resigns Bebe Post By Arnold J. Karr to aggressively close nonperforming stores and refocus the company on cutting-edge fashion of- WWDTUESReady-to-Wear/TextilesDay GreGory Scott’S rocky five-year ten- ferings that drive business,” he said. Blake Lively FASHION ure as chief executive officer of Bebe Stores inc. Last week, the company said comparable-store 6 Nicolas Ghesquière knows how to blend traditional has ended. sales declined 20.1 percent in its second quar- French elements with unexpected details and shows the company said late friday that Scott had ter ended Jan. 3 as net sales slid 12.7 percent to it in his pre-fall collection for Balenciaga. resigned to pursue other interests and that $176.3 million. Quarterly earnings guidance was founder and chairman Manny Mashouf would lowered 7 cents, to a range of 5 to 9 cents. GENERAL assume Scott’s responsibilities as ceo. the com- an “unfocused fashion component” had con- 1 Wal-Mart Stores ceo H. Lee Scott told the NRF pany appointed cynthia cohen as the board’s tributed to eight consecutive quarters of same- convention the dismal economy has caused a lead independent director. store sales declines, according to Beder, fundamental change in consumer behavior. “We appreciate the contributions with part of the problem being in- Greg has made to the progress stability in the executive ranks. 2 Gregory Scott’s rocky five-year tenure as ceo of of the company and wish him Dana Jozwick, who joined the Bebe Stores Inc. has ended, with chairman Manny well,” said Mashouf. company last spring as chief Mashouf assuming his responsibilities. Scott joined Bebe as merchant for the Bebe divi- EYE: The Golden Globes after parties were rather s 4 ceo five years ago after sion from a similar post at lackluster this year, as most of the A-list celebrities serving as president Wet Seal, only lasted five made their exit minutes after 10 p.m. of Wet Seal’s arden B. months in the post. division. Beginning Scott has been credited 8 RTW: With New York Fashion Week just a month in 1996, he had spent with “elevating the high- away, several designers are leaning toward off-site four years with Bebe as er-margin accessories cat- locations, but have yet to commit. vice president of mer- egory from a small piece The National Retail Federation’s annual convention chandising. He’s also of the business to a major 11 worked with Laundry top- and bottom-line driv- and trade expo, called The Big Show, is moving to by Shelli Segal, ann Gregory Scott er,” according to Beder. the nation’s capital in 2011. taylor and Henri Bendel addressing the WWD Beder urged Mashouf to TEXTILES: Despite the Hamas rockets falling in CEO Summit in 2005. 14 in his career, which began “aggressively reduce Bebe Israel’s south and the military response in the Gaza at Macy’s West. Sport by either closing stores or Strip, business in the region marches on. in 2005, Scott, then a year converting them to Bebe or Bebe Blake Lively into his tenure, told the WWD/ accessory stores. the Bebe Sport 22 Primark, the U.K. discount clothing chain, said it will Dnr ceo Summit that Bebe had the concept is outdated and unfocused, at investigate claims that working practices at one of potential to double into a $1 billion business. best, and not worthy of management’s limited its suppliers are illegal and unethical. in the fiscal year ended last July, sales reached time right now.” Classified Advertisements...... 23 $687.6 million, up 2.5 percent from the prior year the analyst also argued for granting autono- To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is and down 7.6 percent on a comparable-store my to a chief merchant once one is appointed, [email protected], using The individual’s name. basis. While it’s continued to position itself as stating that merchandising exclusives with WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 “sleek and sexy” in its merchandising and a fa- the likes of tara Subkoff, who originated the FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. vorite of youthful film and music stars, some con- imitation of christ brand, and the Pussycat Dolls VOLUME 197, NO. 7. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in April, June and sider the brand diluted by attempts to expand had served as “stopgaps” but hadn’t energized August, three additional issues in March and September, and four additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion the business beyond its original sensual contem- the business. Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, porary domain, particularly with its emphasis on Like many retailers, Bebe has had difficulties President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human the Bebe Sport division. tracking the moving target of the contemporary Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail in a research note titled “ceo Departure a customer. that uncertainty has been reflected Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: key opportunity,” in which he maintained his in the choice of older spokeswomen, such as SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR “buy” rating and $10 price target on the retail- actresses rebecca romijn and eva Longoria SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box er, eric Beder, analyst at Brean Murray, carret Parker for Bebe and Bebe Sport, respectively. 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks & co., wrote, “although Greg was responsible at the same time, however, the company re- after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 for a number of key positives for the company, cently reached back toward the junior market Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests over the last few years Bebe has continued to with its 2b concept store. to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that lag in virtually every performance level. When Bebe, based in Brisbane, calif., has 312 stores, offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or combined with a revolving door at the chief including 215 Bebe units and 64 under the Bebe information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S merchant position, a number of mystifying ex- Sport name. the company’s shares ended the WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, pansion decisions and the dreadful December day at $5.98, down 47 cents, or 7.3 percent. their AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, quarter numbers, we believe Bebe’s board fi- 52-week high and low are $13.83, reached feb. ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS nally had enough. 26, and $4.57, reached nov. 21, respectively. SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. “We urge management to use this opportunity — With contributions from Matthew Lynch DAILY People still have money. Pozzoni, Valentino “It’s very targeted to the Go Separate Ways QUOTE thing they want. If you MILAN — valentino and its don’t have what they want, if you’re off HILLDUN men’s wear designer ferruccio Pozzoni have agreed to part by 1/30th of an inch, forget it. IS IN FASHION ways after only two seasons. Starting with the spring — H. Lee Scott, chief executive officer of Wal-Mart” Stores Inc., 2010 collection, creative di- on the consumer’s new mood. Page one. FACTORING rectors Maria Grazia chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli will ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE FINANCING add men’s wear to their duties CORRECTION LETTERS OF CREDIT to better deliver a cohesive vi- kenny khym, the founder of the against all odds retail chain that filed PURCHASE ORDER FINANCING sion for the fashion house. for chapter 11 bankruptcy protection on Jan. 5, is an adviser to Wicked the two were named cre- fashions inc., the manufacturer of Southpole. and has been since ative directors for women’s it was started. a story on page 2 on Jan. 7 misstated his affiliation ready-to-wear, couture and with the company, which is owned by his brother David khym. (212) 244-2600 accessories in october fol- 225 W 35TH STREET, NY NY 10001 lowing the exit of alessandra Diane von facchinetti. Furstenberg TODAY ON Pozzoni, who cut his teeth pre-fall Tim Moore Jeffrey Kapelman Christina Malleos at Prada and Brioni, was 2009. hired in September 2007 Gary Wassner to add a modern touch to valentino’s small men’s wear WWD business. the aim was to .com (310) 706-4142 grow the segment, which a • Additional images from 500 ROSECRANS AVE., SUITE 500 year ago accounted for eight percent of sales. pre-fall collections MANHATTAN BEACH, CA 90266 for the upcoming fall col- • More photos from the lection, valentino will by- Golden Globes after parties pass its traditional runway • Featured images Brittany Stapelmann show in favor of a presentation in Milan. • Global breaking news

— Alessandra Ilari eRICKSeN KYLe BY PHoTo • Daily stock prices 1 AN AMERICAN ICON SINCE 1939

I think… Glamour, think When I —Fergie F erg i e

PHOTOGRAPHY: PATRICK DEMARCHELIER 4 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 13, 2009 WWD.COM

Drew Barrymore in For more, see WWD.com. Dior Haute Couture and Lorraine Schwartz.

Heidi Klum in vintage James Galanos and Lorraine Schwartz, with Eva Longoria Parker inin Reem Acra, Verdura and H.Stern and Kate Kate Winslet in Yves Saint Laurent and Beckinsale in J.Mendel and Fred Leighton. Chopard with Sam Mendes in Prada. Golden Retrievers The Golden Globes after parties were rather lackluster this year, as most of the A-list made their exit minutes after 10 p.m. Showtime’s low-key party at the Peninsula Hotel included a build-your-own- ANDREAS BRANCH/PMC ALL OTHERS BY sliders station, music to the ears of any hungry celebs who missed the dinner portion of the evening. David Duchovny, Mary-Louise Parker, Georgina Chapman

IMAGES; and Harvey Weinstein, Jonathan Rhys Meyers, and newlywed “Dexter” co-stars Jennifer Carpenter and Michael C. Hall sipped drinks themed after the network’s shows. s Eva Mendes in Back at the Beverly Hilton, Kate Winslet, Blake Lively, Heidi Klum and Marisa Tomei Dior and Van Cleef lounged in the VIP section of the In Style/Warner Bros. bash held in the tented garden & Arpels at HBO. courtyard. Guests also ogled Leonardo DiCaprio, who stayed for over 30 minutes, perhaps the longest anyone, let alone a nominee, settled anywhere. It was mostly execs and “Mad Men” cast members who huddled at AMC’s intimate soiree in the penthouse. About 75 people whooped when show creator Matt Weiner bussed his wife while clutching his statuette for best television drama. “All good, all good,” said Jon Hamm, who shook hands with friends and strangers alike. Still, the party was more like a moody “Mad Men” set piece than an all-out celebration. However, HBO, which also had plenty to toast with big wins for “John Adams,” “In Treatment” and “True Blood,” set a festive mood at its Sixties-themed poolside shindig. Outside KEVIN MAZUR/GETTY BY BARON/BEIMAGES; KLUM the party, the lengthy line extending down a hallway suggested it was the post-ceremony event of the night. The dance floor was perilously close to the water’s edge, but that didn’t stop many from getting their groove on. Jenna Fischer and Angela Kinsey from “The Office” eschewed the Sixties and channeled the next decade by doing their best coordinated imitations of John Travolta in “Saturday Night Fever” to Michael Jackson’s “Don’t Stop ’Til You Get Enough.” Meanwhile, Amanda Bynes, sitting next to Jamie-Lynn Sigler and Hayden Panettiere, wiggled in her chair to Beyoncé’s “Single Ladies.” Bynes had been partying since early that afternoon. “It was my MATT IMAGES; WINSLET BY grandma’s 90th birthday,” she said. “I had that earlier in the day, and then I ran over to my house and got ready in 20 minutes, and did my makeup in the car.” Nearby, Sophia Bush struggled to make a phone call as the beats thumped. “I feel like I’m on the Verizon commercial. ‘Can you hear me? Can you hear me?’” she pleaded into the phone. “It’s like a dance club in here.” This being the HBO party, plenty of cable cast members from past and present did the rounds. Drew Barrymore showed up, as did Mark Wahlberg and those in his “entourage,” including Adrian Grenier, Kevin Dillon, Kevin Connolly and Jerry Ferrara. Zac Efron, Tom Hanks and Ginnifer Goodwin were also on hand. “The most attractive people in the world are here,” said Goodwin. “I’m an imposter, but no one has busted me yet.” The bash Fox Searchlight had at Craft restaurant drew the entire cast of its “Slumdog Blake Lively in Olivia Wilde in Reem Acra Millionaire,” as well as Mickey Rourke and Bruce Springsteen, who both nabbed Golden Globes for its other big Nina Ricci and and Van Cleef & Arpels. winner, “The Wrestler.” Over at the NBC/Universal/Focus Features shindig on the roof of the parking structure Fred Leighton. at the Beverly Hilton, Olivia Wilde, Jane Krakowski and Colin Farrell mingled among the displays of vintage baubles provided by Cartier, the event’s sponsor. Anne Hathaway made a brief appearance at the bash, but in the end, the best celeb spotting was to be had in the hotel lobby (winners Tina Fey, Tracy Morgan, Laura Dern and Anna Paquin) and the valet line. As one partygoer put it, “I think there was a secret party somewhere else and we didn’t know about it.”

JaneJane KrakowskiKrakowski inin J.MendelJ.Mendel andand Verdura.Verdura. HARRISON/GETTY FRAZER BY FREDERICK M. BROWN/GETTY BY IMAGES; LIVELY IMAGES; KRAKOWSKI KEENAN/GETTY STEFANIE TOMEI BY CROTTY/PMC;

Vanessa Hudgens in Marisa Tomei in Oscar de Alberta Ferretti and

DAVID PHOTO BY la Renta and Neil Lane and Lorraine Schwartz with Sevan Bicakci jewelry. Zac Efron in Burberry. Tom Hanks in Tom Ford. WILDE

6 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 13, 2009

Balenciaga Elements

ofNicolas Ghesquière Style knows just how to blend traditional French elements with unexpected pieces and details, and he shows it in his pre-fall collection for Balenciaga. The designer, for example, combines a top Melanie Griffith might have worn in the 1984 film “Body Double” with gray flannel Balenciaga pants that are voluminous on top, then pencil-thin. The accessories are dynamic: knitted fox boleros, bold shoes and massive mittens.

Balenciaga

For more, see WWD.com.

Balenciaga WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 13, 2009 7 WWD.COM Nina Ricci Nina Ricci Nina Ricci: The Beat Goes On “When the economy changes, it’s not like you want to start eating bad-tasting chocolate,” Olivier Theyskens said after showing his pre-fall collection for Nina Ricci in New York on Monday morning. “You have to stay true to what you’re doing, and the house of Nina is about luxury.” Indeed, Theyskens, who, in recent months, has been the subject of rumors that his two-year stint as artistic director at Nina Ricci is in jeopardy, sent forth a glamorous lineup of rich leather jackets, di- aphanous silk dresses and slouchy pantsuits. According to the designer, in beginning to create the line, he asked himself, “If I was a girl, what would I want? What would I need?” Known for his exquisite prints, Theyskens used a Seventies-style graphic motif in vibrant colors played up against neutrals. Dresses were short; pants, skinny, and outerwear, sporty. And, although his collections routinely have received critical praise, Theyskens has weath- ered reports that sales have been flat for the label, which is sold in 50 U.S. doors and 200 worldwide. When asked whether such reports — and the economy in general — have influenced his creative ap- proach, Theyskens, dressed casually in a hot pink shirt and dark gray sweater, offered a polite but emphatic no. “I think it’s important to study the market and to feel you are right with it,” he explained. “But if I felt we had to start doing simple clothes, I’d be doing them.” As for his job security, Theyskens smiled and said, “I am totally committed to Nina Ricci. None of us really know from where such rumors come up, but we are feeling very confident Nina Ricci that things are going in the right place.” His confidence may be based in part on the in- troduction of an expanded accessories line, particularly handbags. Theyskens designed four styles for spring: a hobo, shoulder bag, tote and clutch, in skins from alligator to calf to pony. “I want this one,” he said, showing off a boxy alligator tote with leather ribbon detailing (about $25,000, though most of the bags run in the $1,800 to $2,500 range). Shoes, too, played a major role in the pre-fall R fare, as in platform pumps and booties (one unex- NE H pected flourish: a clear plastic heel fashioned into EIC

V a dove). Despite the fact that he’s not deviating E from his perfectionist clothing designs, Theyskens ST admitted that, when it came to creating a bag col- S BY

IE lection, he wanted to keep things “discreet.” “We’ve had a propensity toward so much flash SSOR the last few years,” he said, “and I wanted to ACCE

; make something classic with simple hardware.” EN Translation? In lieu of fancy snaps and buckles, KS IC

R many of the bags, in black, steely gray and eggplant, E

LE feature a brass rope chain, some woven with leather, and a leather ribbon fluttering from the side. KY BY

N “I wanted to have a ribbon that you could hold in O I your hand and play with,” explained Theyskens. SH A

F He also has created a line of sunglasses and eye-

ICCI wear, which he said would be in stores by June. ; R

A However, while accessories are often financial juggernauts for apparel companies, Mario Grauso, MUR K president of Puig Beauty & Fashion Group, which ANC owns Nina Ricci, was quick to downplay high expectations for the collection. “I think that, for any fashion house at this moment in time, you’re trying to make the best of a bad situation,” he said. “I person- ally believe that the accessories market is kind of overloaded, so I don’t think that the new guy coming in is suddenly going to have a huge business. We’re FR Balenciaga PHOTOS BY going to start building what I hope will be a big business. But I also think, in a tough economy, girls are going to make themselves feel better with a smaller purchase, whether it’s eyewear or a pair of shoes.” And, while Grauso — who noted he is “trying to keep the prices down as much Nina Ricci as we can; now’s not the time for $25,000 dresses” — would not disclose sales volume for the label, he remains sol- idly behind his 31-year-old employee, whom he’s had his eye on since Theyskens’ days at Rochas. “I feel like, as soon as I hire some- body, there’s rumors about them leaving,” Grauso said. Theyskens’ contract is up in October, and Grauso added: “To be honest, Olivier and I haven’t started to renegotiate, but right now we’re Nina fine. I can’t help but be pleased. He’s Ricci done a great job.” — Sarah Haight 8 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 13, 2009 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report Designers Ready to Get on With the Show

By Rosemary Feitelberg ny, which previously staged the men’s Gotham Hall can be rented show in the ground-floor event space With New York Fashion Week for $15,000 to $25,000. of its Milan office. just a month away, several designers Marc Jacobs is lining up the are leaning toward off-site locations, Lexington Avenue Armory for his Feb. but have yet to commit. 16 show, according to its superinten- white paul photo by Adding to their indecision is dent, Eligio Santiago. He declined to the fact that Bumble & bumble’s comment on the expense, but said the Meatpacking District location is designer typically rents the space for not an option this season. And IMG eight or nine days. While the contract Fashion has decided to hold off on is still being ironed out, it “shouldn’t introducing a fourth venue near be a problem,” Santiago said. Bryant Park for fashion presenta- Last year the venue was a source of tions — this season’s preferred and much consternation for the company, more affordable format — until which was slapped with a $1 million September instead of unveiling one fine for allegedly bribing the former next month. superintendent. The ailing economy is unquestion- Other designers returning to last ably a factor for designers, especially season’s locales include Thakoon and young ones who in some cases are Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, which doing everything they can to make a are both showing at Eyebeam Gallery. splash without going under. Bryant Marchesa is also Chelsea-bound and Park’s going rates for the Tent, the will stage its show at the Chelsea Art Promenade and the Salon are said Museum Feb. 18. to be $48,000, $38,000 and $28,000, Lutz & Patmos will use its new respectively, and that just covers the showroom at 425 West 13th St. for an space. Add on casting, production, intimate presentation. Doo-Ri Chung styling, hair, makeup and celebrity has lined up the gallery at Milk guests and that figure can easily leap Studios and Jonathan Saunders will into six figures. Roseland Ballroom is be showing at the new Skyline space Last month Vera Wang caused a bit equipped to handle fashion at 465 10th Avenue. of a stir by revealing that her show shows grand or small. Alexander Wang plans to stage a will be held in her new Mercer Street Feb. 14 show at Roseland Ballroom, store instead of Bryant Park. Betsey which can house up to 1,500 guests Johnson, DKNY, Carmen Marc Valvo and can be had for as little as $18,000, and Reem Acra are among the others according to Meredith Rothstein, who have decamped since last sea- director of special events for the son. Conversely, Tommy Hilfiger will Midtown space. But the designer will be back in the tents for the first time skip hosting an after-party this sea- in several seasons, as will J.Mendel, son. After hosting a blowout bash with Charlotte Ronson and Adam Lippes. Foxy Brown last season, the designer At this stage in the game, 59 de- thought that one would be too tough signers have committed to the tents to top, a company spokeswoman said. and eight are on board for off-site “We made that decision last season. venues, said Fern Mallis, senior vice Coming off that, we really wanted to president of IMG Fashion, singling focus on the clothes. It was more about out Justin Timberlake’s William that than the economy,” she said. Rast label as a welcome newcomer While Wang is set on a more in- to the tents. “My take is pretty opti- timate affair for his show, previous mistic, without wanting to sound like Roseland users, such as Y-3 and Gwen a Bernie Madoff where everything Stefani, have splurged on their pro- is perfect. We do have a very strong ductions. “I look at what they do for schedule. Every time someone de- an eight- to 12-minute show and think, cides not to do something, that opens ‘Oh, my God,’” Rothstein said. up an opportunity for someone else,” But this time around, designers are she said. not being so freewheeling, according While off site doesn’t always mean affordable, Valvo though they will be introduced for the first time tonight to Allan Kurtz, managing director of Gotham Hall, where is saving a bundle by having a three-hour fashion in- over drinks. “When I think of the word ‘designer,’ ‘har- the going rate is between $15,000 and $25,000. “People stallation at Citrine on Feb. 18 instead of the tents. For mony’ and ‘collectivity’ are not the first two words that are really watching what they are doing,” he said, add- starters, the FlatIron District lounge is giving the de- come to mind,” Cutrone said. “But this could be a new ing that a group of five designers has inquired about signer the space for free, which automatically equates frontier. This economy could take us from the me gen- hosting a combined show there on Feb. 13. to a $50,000 savings. Not having to cast 20-plus models eration to the we generation.” They aren’t the only ones weighing their options. is another $50,000 savings, according to Frank Pulice, In the meantime, designers are focused on the tasks Swaim and Christina Hutson, who folded their two- director of communications. at hand, with the February shows being at the top of that year-old Obedient Sons & Daughters label earlier this Others are defraying costs by different means — sight list. Calvin Klein Collection plans to make the most of month due to lagging capital from their investor, have unseen. Three of publicist Kelly Cutrone’s clients — the ground-floor event space in the company’s West 39th yet to decide what off-site venue they will use for their Nicholas K, Sergio Davila and Mara Hoffman — agreed Street offices, putting it to good use for its women’s and new label. The name of their company will be revealed to collaborate for a group show Feb. 15 in the tents, even men’s runway shows. The latter is a first for the compa- through show invitations. WWDTREND Versace Chanel Dolce & Oscar de Michael Métiers Gabbana la Renta Kors Visual Aids d’Art Pre-fall is anything but basic, as designers

play with lively graphic elements, from dominique maitre and khepri studio mesmerizing prints to rich jacquards. — Antonia Sardone ericksen, kyle centeno, talaya by

For more, see WWD.com. photos WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 13, 2009 9 WWD.COM Barnes’ Beauty Brand Discontinued By Rachel Brown Celebrity makeup artist sCott barnes said his namesake CosmetiCs brand has been discontinued after a relationship with investors soured, but he is seeking new funding to revive the brand as early as spring. the scott barnes beauty brand, which altered the landscape of cosmetic marketing when it was introduced on QVC in 2003 before entering traditional retail channels, received roughly $1.4 million in investment from lake Forest, ill.-based oryx Capital international inc. starting in 2007. two months into oryx’s involvement, barnes said he began to sense the private equity firm wasn’t a good fit. “literally, it was a constant battle to get stuff into the stores. Within three weeks [on the shelves], it was gone. i was like, Scott ‘Can you all see there is a demand for the product?’ it was just Barnes common sense stuff,” he said. “this happens so much with a start-up business, especially with makeup artists in the press because [investors] expect that everything is going to run without putting in effort.” nicole korczak and richard dallas, who handled scott barnes for oryx Capital investment, are no longer with oryx and could not be reached for comment. a representative at the company said that oryx is dissolving. scott barnes was not oryx Capital international’s only business connection to the beauty industry. in 2003, the firm acquired private label manufacturer Cosmolab through a business unit called specialty packaging holdings. barnes has wrested control of his license back from oryx and has hired peter Chong, who has a finance background with stints at morgan stanley, barclays Capital and Citigroup, to be his chief financial officer. barnes’ current objective is to find a new partner who can initially invest $2 million to $5 million in the scott barnes brand but would have a long-term strategy to put some $20 million into the company to upgrade the packaging, expand the product lineup and grow a broad retail network. “my ultimate goal is to have an investor that understands cosmetics lines, understands me and understands where [the scott barnes brand] needs to go,” said barnes. “it needs to be more accessible. We were in new york and l.a., but there was nothing in the midwest. i would love to be in a dillard’s or a macy’s, where people can access it….it was a prestige line. it was beautiful and everybody was proud to have it. it was just so mismanaged.” scott barnes cosmetics contained approximately 140 stockkeeping units and was carried at saks Fifth avenue, holt renfrew, specialty boutiques and on QVC. barnes estimated that the brand generated $2 million to $5 million in sales annually. body bling, a shimmering body lotion, eye ice, a loose eye shadow and Chic palettes have been among his most popular items. BEAUTY BEAT barnes’ fame is closely tied to his work with Jennifer lopez, for whom he cultivated a sun-kissed look with bronzed skin and pale lips. shannon levy, owner of the beauty Closet in studio City, Calif., attributes the success of his cosmetic brand in her store, where it is a bestseller priced from $18 to $55, with barnes’ ability to create products that enable customers to capture that lopez-inspired look in their daily lives. “a lot of my makeup-artist customers especially are really, really hoping he brings back the line. they are fanatics about it,” said levy. “i had a girl cry the other day because she couldn’t get body bling.” barnes, whose latest projects include working on a book tentatively titled “about Face” that will il- lustrate mistakes women make in their regular makeup regimens and directing a music video for singer kat deluna, is brimming with plans to improve his brand when it is reintroduced, such as enhancing the packaging, adding liquid foundations and delving into a skin care range. “there is stuff that i want to do to make it more beautiful,” he said. “it was off-broadway, now it is going on broadway.”

Johannes Verhoog Verhoog Takes Reins at Mäurer & Wirtz BERLIN — the new year brought the announcement of new leadership at German perfume manufacturer mäurer & Wirtz. Johannes Verhoog has taken over as managing director as bert lehnen has stepped down after 40 years at the stolberg-based company. lehnen will remain a consultant for brand and corporate strategies. mäurer & Wirtz, which owns the 4711 and tabac original brands, and licensed fragrances including s. oliver, pussy deluxe and betty barclay, generated sales of 130 million euros, or $191.1 million at average exchange, last year. Verhoog, 50, was recently a management consultant at altran and previously worked for reckitt benckiser and procter & Gamble, from whom mäurer & Wirtz acquired the 4711 brand in 2007. Verhoog will lead the company in tandem with managing partner dr. hermann Wirtz, who represents the fifth generation of family management for mäurer & Wirtz, which dates back to 1845. — Susan Stone New Scents Propel Ferragamo Parfums MILAN — Ferragamo parfums is on a roll. the beauty arm of salvatore Ferragamo recorded sales growth in 2008 for the fifth consecutive year. though the firm declined to comment on numbers, the turnover spike was attributed to a clutch of new scents driven mainly by masterbrand tuscan soul, which launched in september. distribution was also expanded in 2009 to reach 12,000 doors globally, with key markets Japan, China, italy and latin america. Ferragamo parfums has also built on its amenities line for airlines, hotels and cruise ships, and is currently distributed in the first class section of singapore airlines, king Fisher airlines and aeromexico. luciano bertinelli, chief executive officer of Ferragamo parfums, said the firm expected moderate growth for 2009, in line with the slowdown of global economies. new launches slated for the year include incanto bliss, a version of the incanto scent intended for a younger demographic; F by Ferragamo black for men, and a home fragrance collection to round out the tuscan soul masterbrand. — Stephanie Epiro 10 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 13, 2009 WWD.COM

A look from Flax was CMC & Click. a popular FASHION SCOOPS resource TALE OF TWO CITIES: When Celine secured Phoebe Philo to be its new at Nouveau creative director, it agreed to let the British designer base the French Collective. brand’s design studios in London. Now it looks like the brand also is open to new frontiers in terms of realizing her collections. Sources said Celine, owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has been in talks with Milan-based Aeffe SpA about a production agreement. The likelihood of a deal could not be learned, but it is understood that talks have been recent. Marco Gobbetti, chief executive officer at Celine, declined to comment on the firm’s production plans. However, it is understood that Celine is exploring using several producers, and Aeffe could be among them. An Aeffe spokeswoman denied that the two firms are in discussions. Aeffe operates the Moschino, Alberta Ferretti and Pollini brands, and produces collections for Jean Paul Gaultier. Gobbetti confirmed that Philo will present her first collection for spring 2010 on the runway in Paris this fall, with the Celine studio turning out collections in the interim. “This is not about a trend or a runway, but building the foundation of the wardrobe of Phoebe for Celine,” he said.

KILGOUR CANCELS SHOW: Savile Row tailor Kilgour has canceled its Paris men’s wear show, and will hold appointments in London instead. “We will show the collection in our private London showroom from Jan. 21,” said Carlo Brandelli, Kilgour’s creative director. “We thought about a visual presentation in Paris on the schedule, but with the current instability and climate at the moment, we wanted to have a rethink on how the brand progresses and shows for the next seasons.” The show had been on the provisional calendar for Jan. 22 at 11:30 a.m. Last season, Kilgour staged a show in Paris that was sponsored by Aston Martin. Speaking of the Paris men’s shows, don’t expect all the models at Jean Paul Gaultier’s show, scheduled for Jan. 22, to conform to the industry’s typical stature standards. Word has it a group of knee-high models will hit the catwalk for the launch of the brand’s first kids’ wear collection, licensed by France’s Zannier Group.

AND THE MENTORS ARE…: Diane von Furstenberg now can add mentor to her résumé. As part of the 2008 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, which grants a year’s worth of mentoring from an industry executive to the winner and Price, Novelty Keys at Nouveau Collective two runners-up, von Furstenberg was named the mentor to fund winner Alexander Wang. For one year, Wang will work with the designer and By Lisa Lockwood “We’re a little tentative about next quarter, but her team, including DVF president Paula Sutter. Andy and Kate Spade, we’re staying optimistic,” she said. “I have a very meanwhile, were named mentors to runner-up Albertus Swanepoel, while NEW YORK — Buyers shopped cautiously for well- loyal Eastern Shore base, as well as a transient Patrick Robinson and Andrew Rosen will mentor Vena Cava designers Sophie priced and unusual merchandise at the Nouveau customer” who vacations from Washington. Buhai and Lisa Mayock. Collective at the Hammerstein Ballroom here. Angela Soost and Kathy Clisham, owner and On the hunt for more creatively inspired looks buyer, respectively, of the Tana Kaya boutique BEACH PARTY: Spring breakers won’t be the only ones descending on South for their women’s specialty stores, retailers said in Quakertown, Pa., were pleased with the in- Florida this March. Michael Kors also will be in the Sunshine State to they enjoyed the intimate setting and open-booth timate nature of the show. They purchased present his fall collection at Destination Fashion 2009, a gala to benefit nature of the three-day trade event that ended separates and dresses from resources such The Buoniconti Fund to Cure Paralysis. The fete, which will take place Jan. 6 and featured 80 exhibitors. as Habitat Clothes to Live In, White Rice and March 7 at Miami’s Bal Harbour Shops, also will feature a silent auction as “It was slightly up from last January and a good Earth Creations. well as live performances by Seal and The Pointer Sisters. size for us,” said show director Joanne Feinstein. Arlene Ratner, who, along with Jackie Toporek, Normally, Nouveau Collective is held at the New owns Jezebel, a women’s specialty store in SUM OF US: Pierre Bergé has been drawn into a corruption investigation Yorker Hotel, which is undergoing a major renova- Savannah, Ga., returned to Nouveau Collective for involving Julien Dray, the Socialist deputy for France’s Essonne region, tion. The show will return there next month with a second day. “I like the open venue,” Ratner said. according to a spokeswoman for Paris’ law courts. She confirmed that a similar open venue space, she said. Some 1,196 They also praised the resource Flax, whose linen France’s fraud squad is investigating the possibility of a suspicious buyers attended, up 10 percent from January 2008. separates work well together. movement of funds between the accounts of Parrains de SOS-Racisme “We’re very pleased [with the traffic]; it exceed- Mary Johansson, sales manager of Flax, based (Patrons of SOS Racism), the antiracism organization that is presided ed our expectations,” Feinstein said. “We thought in Spencer, N.Y., said, “Traffic was steady and a over by Bergé; FIDL, the Democratic Federation of High School it would be much quieter. We’re a mirror image lot of buyers came to look, write paper and move Students, and Dray’s personal account. According to French daily Le of specialty stores in the U.S., and you don’t see on to spring.” Monde, the sum in question totals some 351,027 euros, or about these lines in major department stores. We’re a Johansson said the line is updated each season $474,000 at current exchange. Bergé, who was traveling Monday, was real lifestyle show.” but doesn’t change dramatically. “This way, stores unavailable for comment. After a difficult Christmas, buyers said they can have a fresh look without having to take a were being cautious with their dollars, but were risk,” she said. GOODY TWO SHOES: Longchamp, the French leather goods brand known finding lines they liked that would distinguish Flax, which had a separate showroom on the for its nylon Pliage bag, has introduced two boot styles for next fall: them from department stores. second floor of the Hammerstein Ballroom, had a black leather boot and a suede style with a patent leather toe, both “It was a good show,” said Dee Moorhead, informal modeling at the show for buyers. The available in long and short versions. The footwear was unveiled to a owner of D.J. Heart, a women’s specialty store in collection wholesales from $20 for a tank to $29 group of retailers from Europe and the Mideast during the house’s first- Sag Harbor, N.Y. “People need to be very careful. for pants. ever runway show Monday, held at Paris’ Espace Richelieu. There’s no Buying is very important this year. Women still Johansson said the show was busy, but not as sign of the brand joining the city’s official fashion week circuit, however. want to buy clothes and still want choices, and busy as last year. “We’d all be in denial if we didn’t “It’s a way of showing our bags in a more enticing way than on shelves,” [as retailers] we can deliver products that are hip acknowledge that the economy was affecting us,” said Longchamp’s managing director, Jean Cassegrain. The event and current.” she said, adding that many of her buyers placed also showcased the house’s growing ready-to-wear line, distributed in Moorhead was buying the CMC & Click collec- spring orders in September — and with February Longchamp stores only. tion. “It’s a great line and has a great combina- so close, they’ll come in February. tion: the sizing is right and the pricing is really L.A. Blend, a Los Angeles resource, was doing good,” she said. well with dresses, French terries, poncho T-shirts The looks Moorhead liked included tie-dye and stretch poplin. “It’s a good show; I can’t com- prints and chiffon florals. Each of the styles are plain,” said a spokeswoman for the line. “A lot Reinet in Talks for Lehman Private Equity Biz cut and dyed to order and are offered in 24 col- of people want immediates. It’s better than last LONDON — Reinet Investments SCA, the new company spun off ors. The line ranges from $13 for a tank top to January’s show.” from Compagnie Financière Richemont last year, said Monday $32 for pants to $49 for a dress. “In this economy, Camille Lafargue, sales representative for it is in talks to buy the former Lehman Brothers’ private eq- it fits the bill. It’s all made in Sun Valley, Calif.,” IC Collection, said the economy was taking its uity business. she said. toll. “In general, it’s a little quiet,” she said. Reinet, which is traded on the Luxembourg Stock Exchange, said Dawn White, owner of Dawn, a women’s spe- “This show is so close to the holidays, and with it’s negotiating with Lehman’s bankruptcy estate with a view to partic- cialty store in Onancock, Va., was searching for everybody buying closer to need, some chose to ipate in the partial buyout of Lehman Brothers Merchant Banking. separates. “Flax is my premiere line,” White come in February.” Still, she was doing well with The statement said any future transaction is not expected to im- said. “It’s a great contemporary line and has util- three-piece mother-of-the-bride outfits for $89. pact materially the net asset value or operating results of Reinet. itarian styling.” “Price points are so key today,” she said. “We’re In the fall, Richemont was split in two: the eponymous luxury White’s store, which carries separates, private writing more toward April and May delivery and company that owns brands including Cartier, Dunhill and Chloé, label and accessories, caters to women ages 45 some immediates.” and the holding company Reinet, whose principal asset is a mi- to 75. “It’s a great cross-section of body types,” “We’ve had a few new stores,” Lafargue said. nority stake in British American Tobacco. she said. “The climate is very careful buying. There’s Johann Rupert, executive chairman of Richemont, holds a simi- White also bought separates from Habitat more note taking, and people say they’ll revisit in lar title at Reinet. Clothes to Live In and Iridium Apparel and sweat- February. They want to digest their holiday sea- Richemont decided to restructure its business last year after a ers from BKG & Co. “The [sweaters] are pigment son. Everybody’s being very cautious, and hope- change in Luxembourg tax legislation: Without the restructuring, dyed, utilitarian styling and very chic and comple- fully there will be an upswing. It won’t be peaches the company would have to pay a 15 percent tax on dividends from mentary with the lines I carry,” said White, who and cream by next spring. It’ll take the country a its BAT stake to shareholders after 2010. added that her Christmas business was “solid.” while to recuperate.” — Samantha Conti WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 13, 2009 11 WWD.COM Wal-Mart’s Scott Sees Changing Consumer Habits Continued from page one dener who is thrust into the limelight] in next year. I don’t see anything that says it ‘Being There.’” will turn around swiftly.” And in a hard-won lesson for the Wal- In talking with consumers and employees, Mart ceo, who faced scorching criticism Scott said he found that everyone has been during his tenure over the retailer’s behav- forced to give up something in this econo- ior, Scott said social responsibility and sales my, be it eating out or buying a new pair of need not be mutually exclusive. “We put to- earrings. “They feel good about it,” he said. gether the ‘Save Money’ and ‘Live Better’ “The appetite is toward living a little dif- parts of our mission and applied them to ferently. I wonder whether shopping habits big challenges like the cost of prescription haven’t changed. I’m not convinced that [con- drugs,” he added. “There is no conflict be- sumers] are going to have this same imme- tween delivering value to shareholders and diate desire to go right back to consumption helping solve bigger societal problems.” and debt.” Wal-Mart began a campaign in 2005 to be Wal-Mart has largely managed to swim a more sustainable company and last year against the tide of negative comps that have joined with other businesses, think tanks plagued the industry. “We saw this [recession and labor unions to form the Better Health coming] early on when fuel prices started Care Together Coalition, which has the goal going up several years ago,” Scott said. “As of fixing America’s health care system by we got to the $4 per gallon mark, it really 2012. The company has been criticized by created problems.” watchdog groups for skimping on health Wal-Mart, which was one of the few bright benefits for employees. spots in the industry as shoppers traded The prospect of a new consumer order down to less expensive retailers, reported a was echoed by Carl Steidtmann, chief econ- smaller same-store sales gain in December omist at Deloitte, who addressed global than Wall Street expected and slashed its trends and forecasting at a subsequent NRF earnings forecast. session. “The recession will create a very Scott shared one nugget of sales infor- different economy when we come out of it mation in his presentation. “The weekend than the one we had when we went into it,” before last we had a 25 percent increase in he said. “Real wages are up 6 percent since sales of flat-panel TVs,” he said. “People still July. Consumers have the means to spend, have money. It’s very targeted to the thing they just don’t have the will.” they want. If you don’t have what they want, Stacy Janiak, Deloitte’s vice chairman, if you’re off by 1/30th of an inch, forget it. national retail leader, suggested using tech- You’d better understand your customer and nology to reach consumers on cell phones inventory and open-to-buy. How much depth or handheld devices. “Stores can now send of assortment you have will determine your coupons to consumers’ mobile phones. By profitability.” 2014, mobile commerce is expected to reach But rather than discuss Wal-Mart’s $9 billion. It’s getting easier for consum- Christmas sales in detail — “we have all ers to shop online with their cell phones,” had a tough Christmas, we’ve all just lived Janiak said. “By 2012, 40 percent of sales through that” — Scott wanted to focus on will be online or cross-channel. Every $1 in “some of the big issues facing our country online sales influences $3 of in-store sales.” during one of the most challenging times in But, Janiak cautioned, “Consumer spending our nation’s history.” in the U.S. will not return to former levels.” The health care crisis that’s left 47 million When the economy finally recovers, the Americans uninsured, U.S. addiction to for- comeback won’t be driven by consumer eign oil, the decline of the education system spending, Steidtmann said. Rather, it will and immigration were the topics on Scott’s be driven by an increase in governmental mind. “If we as a country want to get through spending. “Demographic changes will make this time and position ourselves to prosper business more challenging,” he said, “with and lead in the years ahead, then we need to the growth of the 60- to 70-year-old popula- tackle the hard issues,” he said. “We cannot tion and more people moving to urban and afford to postpone solving these problems.” exurban areas.” Scott, who is as familiar with the inner Many experts have predicted a spate of re- workings of the Washington Beltway as he is I wonder whether shopping habits haven’t tail bankruptcies, but Steidtmann said these with the back roads of Wal-Mart’s hometown will be different. “The problem with many com- of Bentonville, Ark., can sometimes sound “changed. I’m not convinced that [consumers] are panies is the operating model itself,” he said. like a politician. Asked by NRF president “The mix of real estate doesn’t make sense or and ceo Tracy Mullin whether he’s inter- going to have this same immediate desire to go the brands have lost cachet. A lot of these com- ested in being Secretary of Commerce in panies won’t come out of bankruptcy.” the Obama administration, Scott demurred, right back to consumption and debt. With much higher rates of inflation “we’ll explaining that he’s signed on to remain at rethink inventories — efficiency and pro- Wal-Mart for two years as a director. — H. Lee Scott, Wal-Mart” Stores Inc. ductivity will be raised. We won’t see expan- Despite having great influence as the ceo sive expansions. A lot of malls will go dark of the world’s largest retailer, Scott down- and a lot less retail space is being built.” played his role. Retailers have benefitted from free trade, but Steidtmann predicted there will be “One of the most important lessons I learned at Wal-Mart is that you have to hire more efforts to roll back free trade since the end of World War II. Steidtmann said people who are better than you and give them credit,” said Scott, a long-time disciple many companies producing overseas will come back. “One of the strongest areas of of founder Sam Walton. construction will be new factories,” he said. “Obama will make [building factories] “I’ve always considered myself to be like Chauncey Gardiner [the hapless gar- more lucrative.”

could struggle to attract the 18,000 or so guests it typically draws. “It’s a mistake,” said one local fashion NRF Convention Headed to Washington in 2011 executive attending The Big Show, who preferred not to be identified. He noted that, while attending the By David Moin He said more space is needed because, while the convention in New York, many out-of-towners like convention has been very “tech heavy,” it is now moving to take in a Broadway show, dine in fine restaurants The National Retail Federation’s annual in more directions to provide larger pavilions themed and visit Manhattan’s concentrated retail venues, convention and trade expo, called The Big Show, is mak- around sustainability, store design and other subjects such as SoHo, Madison Avenue, Fifth Avenue and the ing a big move to Washington. of concern to retailers. “Javits limits us in what we can Meatpacking District. Starting in 2011, the event will be held in the Walter do,” said Gatti. To help get the crowds, Gatti said the NRF is work- E. Washington Convention Center at 801 Mount Vernon The NRF is based in Washington, but Gatti said the ing on a plan to possibly provide transportation, per- Place, between Seventh and Ninth Streets. That year decision to move the convention had nothing to do with haps buses and trains, to shuttle people from New York will be the centenary of the event. that. He also said that, at this time, it has not been deter- to Washington. Next year, however, the convention again will be held mined whether the move would help save NRF money. One source said Las Vegas was once being consid- at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in Manhattan, Generally, costs involving such things as labor unions ered for the convention. Aside from what the D.C. con- where it is currently in session through Wednesday. It’s are cheaper in Washington. vention offers in terms of space, “we picked Washington been held at the Javits Center since 1997. The move, while providing a stage that accommo- because it’s not far away from New York,” Gatti noted. “It is a big switch,” said Michael Gatti, senior vice dates the growth of the convention, also could result in He also said that, in Washington, “there are plenty president of communications for the NRF. “We are out- getting more politicians to attend and participate in the of places to go and look at cool retail concepts,” citing growing Javits, on the expo side and the sessions side. public forums. Georgetown, which is filled with boutiques and galler- We think there is so much more opportunity to get more However, there is concern that Washington isn’t as ies; Washington Harbor, a new mixed-use facility, and space in Washington.” much of a draw as New York, and that the convention Columbia Heights, an inner-city mall. Congratulations product ™ 20,000 submissions 2008 worD of mom REadERS’ choIcE aWaRd WINNERS

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JERUSALEM — For the major textile companies in Israel, action in Gaza began For the year ended Oct. 31, Israel shipped 433.9 exports are the core of their business, so despite the on Dec. 27. million square meter equivalents of textiles and ap- Hamas rockets falling in the country’s south and the parel to the U.S., a 9.5 percent increase. The vast ma- Israeli military response in the Gaza Strip, business jority of that, 392.9 million SME, was textiles. Apparel in the region marches on. shipments declined, but of the categories shipped, the The town of Kiryat Gat — home to the headquarters highest volume was in cotton and man-made fiber un- of Bagir Ltd., makers of technologically innovative men’s derwear and women’s and girls’ knit blouses. Sheets and women’s suits, as well as an Intel factory for comput- and towels were also shipped in significant amounts. er chips — is just 15 miles east of Gaza, but the current The U.S.-Israel Free Trade Area Agreement went military action against Gaza-based Hamas has had no v into effect in September 1985, the first bilateral free impact on Bagir or its operations, said Moshe Gadot, the DO trade deal ever signed by the U.S. Under the terms company’s global development and marketing director. of the agreement, qualifying goods, including tex- “I’m here in Kiryat Gat, and you’re talking to me tiles and apparel manufactured in Israel, the West and everything’s fine,” said Gadot, adding the firm re- HILL/UPI/Lan Bank, the Gaza Strip or a Qualifying Industrial Zone cently conducted a drill for entering a bomb shelter, as and shipped directly to the U.S., are duty free. To a precautionary measure. DEBBIE qualify for duty-free benefits, merchandise has to It was only last week that Kiryat Gat residents re- By be wholly grown, produced or manufactured in the ceived pamphlets from the municipality about what to territories covered by the agreement, or it must be PHOTO do in the event of a rocket attack from Gaza. Israeli substantially altered there. A small percentage of troops began their ground and air offensive Dec. 27, after the end of a cease-fire materials produced in the U.S. can also be used in merchandise. brought a fresh round of Hamas rocket attacks from Gaza on neighboring Israeli The U.S. also has a seven-year-old free trade agreement with Jordan. It mandates towns. Western powers are pushing both sides for a cease-fire in the conflict, which so that at the end of a 10-year implementation period, all goods manufactured in Jordan far has seen almost 900 Palestinians and 13 Israelis killed. and shipped directly to the U.S. will be duty free. The Jordan FTA has strict rule- Built as a development town in Israel’s southern region in the Fifties to absorb of-origin requirements for textiles and apparel that require substantial portions of North African immigrants, Kiryat Gat’s economy was initially based on processing the production of components and garments take place in the U.S. or Jordan. local agricultural produce, which was cotton and wool. Bagir now has 200 employees in Kiryat Gat, and 2,700 around the world. Despite Israel’s Polgat textile company factory was the main employer in the town until political tensions between Israel, Jordan and Egypt over the current situation in Gaza, it closed in the late Nineties, leaving its sister company, Bagir, behind. At that time, Bagir executives have continued to make business trips to Jordan and Egypt. Polgat moved its manufacturing facilities to China, and Bagir kept its offices in Kiryat It’s a similar situation at other Israeli textile companies that manufacture goods Gat, while shifting manufacturing facilities to nearby Jordan and Egypt, like other in Jordan and Egypt. Delta Galil, the private label intimate apparel maker, has its textile companies in Israel. headquarters in northern Israel, where it employs some 200 Israeli Arabs among a “Our manufacturing isn’t in Israel any longer,” Gadot said. “We manufacture in total of 600 workers. Egypt, Jordan and China, and our ties to our employees there are long term, without Even with the ongoing tensions in the Arab Israeli community in Israel over the Gaza any political influence. We’ve gone through a lot together. We have forged our own action, Delta is “a kind of utopia,” said Esti Maoz, the company’s chief marketing officer. kind of cooperation through economic ties.” Delta also directly employs 4,000 people in Egypt and through subcontractors While there had been major discussions at one time of building Israeli textile fac- works with 10,000 Egyptians, with another 400 employees in Jordan. tories in or near the Gaza Strip in order to employ Palestinians and forge better eco- “We have factories in Egypt and Jordan. Our people are going there as usual,” said nomic relations, those plans never came to fruition, partially due to the onset of the Maoz. “But the Egyptians are not such big fans of Hamas, and even though Jordan is second intifada in 2000. Instead, these companies narrowed local manufacturing, due 70 percent Palestinian, nothing has occurred in our factories.” to the high costs of employing Israelis, and looked around the Middle East, settling — With contributions from Liza Casabona, Washington Weak Holiday Spurs U.S. Mill Closings By Ross Tucker competitive in the current economic conditions.” As a result, the company said it would elimi- THE DISMAL HOLIDAy SEASON AT rETAIL HAS nate 200 jobs at its facility in Fort Payne, Ala., and forced a slew of textile plant closings, dealing an- close a knitting factory in Virginia that employed other blow to the viability of an already withering 180 people. Gildan also plans to expand produc- February 3-5, 2009 domestic textile and apparel industry. tion capabilities in the Dominican republic. Javits Convention Center Invista, Milliken & Co. and Gildan Activewear Smaller textile players that had been treading New York City are among the companies that are cutting back. water in recent years reached the end of the line The frequency of factory closings has gained when holiday orders failed to materialize and the momentum since late September. As econom- chance for future orders disappeared. Belmont, ic conditions worsened through October and N.C.-based yarn manufacturer r.L. Stowe Mills Inc. November and holiday orders failed to materi- said on Jan. 5 that it would close within 60 days, alize, the pace of layoffs and plant shutdowns bringing the company’s 108-year run to an end. accelerated, with North Carolina, Georgia and “Business conditions in the fourth quarter dete- Tennessee particularly hard hit. riorated suddenly and dramatically,” said president WHERE’S The recent spate of lay- and chief executive officer D. offs and closures hasn’t Harding Stowe. “Looking for- been limited to the few You’re seeing the most ward, management does not remaining independent “ see sales returning to levels mills, said Lloyd Wood, efficient people out sufficient to sustain business.” TEXWORLD director of membership there closing plants. The coalition’s Wood said, and media outreach at the “It’s not about competence. It American Manufacturing — Lloyd Wood, ”AMTAC really is about the economic Trade Action Coalition. conditions and the underlying USA? “you’re seeing the most efficient people out [government trade] policy. Until one of those things is there closing plants,” Wood said. “The weak sis- fixed, it’s going to be tough for anybody.” Your key resource for quality fabrics ters have long disappeared, and you’re seeing the According to the U.S. Department of Labor, a best of the best either drastically reduce opera- total of 2.6 million jobs were lost in 2008. More than at exceptional prices returns to NYC tions in some instances or shut down plants.” half evaporated in the last four months of the year, February 3 - 5, 2009. Invista, which manufacturers products such as and the unemployment rate rose to 7.2 percent last Coolmax and Lycra, has made significant cutbacks. month from 6.7 percent in November. Textile mills In October, the company said it would trim 400 of manufacturing apparel fabric eliminated 2,900 po- its 500 workers at a carpet fiber facility in Seaford, sitions last year to employ 138,800 workers. Home Del. This was followed in early December with furnishing fabric manufacturers, known as textile Register by January 22 at the announcement that the company would lay off product mills, cut 1,700 positions to 143,500. Apparel www.TexworldUSA.com/WWD more than 200 out of 600 employees at a facility in manufacturers eliminated 2,800 jobs to 185,300. Waynesboro, Va. Invista said a plunge in demand Since the push to manufacture abroad that began and have your badge mailed for home carpeting forced the company to halt in the Seventies, domestic apparel manufacturing nylon production at the plant. Soon after Christmas, has steadily dwindled. In 1973, apparel manufactur- to you in advance! Invista said it was shuttering a yarn processing plant ing employment topped out at 1.5 million, while the in Athens, Ga., with 50 workers losing jobs. textile industry peaked at 1.3 million in 1951. Milliken & Co. and Gildan Activewear have also The downward trend is expected to continue. been forced to reduce costs. Milliken announced According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics’ Career the closing of a textile plant in Barnwell, S.C., on Guide to Industries, about 595,000 people were em- Dec. 30 that employed 125 people. In releasing its ployed in the textile and apparel manufacturing year-end financial results on Dec. 11, Gildan said industries in 2006. That number is expected to con- it would “phase out sock finishing operations in tract by more than 35 percent by 2016. California, the U.S. by the end of June and consolidate op- Georgia and North Carolina employ more than 40 erations in Honduras, in order to remain globally percent of all workers in the industry. Botanic Principles Lenzing Fibers Lenzing Viscose Lenzing Modal fiber producer ofTENCEL Lenzing istheworldleadingcellulose www.lenzing.com ® , LenzingFR ® . ® , ® and accompanies thewearer alldaylong. each andeveryitemofclothingwhich containsLenzingFibersandthis when producing TENCEL for fibersfrom Lenzing.Manyotherimportantfunctionsfrom nature are applied Photosynthesis -theconceptoflifeeachandeveryplantis basicprinciple botanic principlesare employedintheproduction process asawhole. LenzingFibersyounoticeimmediatelythattheycomefrom natureWith since Fibers from Nature Cellulose FiberTechnology World Leaderin ® and LenzingModal ® . Thus,there isapieceofnature in

Lenzing AG, A-4860 Lenzing, Austria 16 WWD, tuesDay, january 13, 2009 WWD.COM Textiles & Trade Pakistani Firms Move to Deal With Energy Crisis By Mahlia S. Lone LAHORE, Pakistan — At an extraordinary general meeting of the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association last week, the majority of the mills gave association chairman Tariq Mehmood the mandate to settle the issues of energy shortages and the world’s highest bank interest rates with the government. But if an agreement with the government cannot be reached, the chairman would then call for the voluntary closure of the textile sector until the government resolved the industry’s issues, according to the association. The issues being faced by the industry are more adversely affecting spinners and smaller weaving and finishing mills than larger firms. Due to the economies of scale enjoyed by large mills, they can afford not only to provide suitable seasonal backup energy generation, but also to average out the extra costs incurred at this time. Also, a source at the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association told WWD that larger mills incur fewer losses by keeping their units running than smaller mills. More important for large mills are their long-term relationships with major U.S. brands, which help justify short-term losses. These working relationships would be jeopardized if the mills support the rest of the Pakistan textile industry in its decision for voluntary closure. Fearing U.S. importers would opt for regional competi- tors if the closure goes ahead, these mills are distancing themselves from the rest of the association. The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association has demanded the restructuring of Pakistan’s textile exports have dropped 20 percent. loans, reduction of interest rates and provision of an uninterrupted supply of electricity and gas to export-oriented companies. About 90 percent of the sector is incurring losses and facing closure, as reported by the association spokesman to the local press. Since the price of oil has gone down, our energy cost has been mitigated to a certain Additionally, total textile exports have already dropped by up to 20 percent due to the extent. Additionally, having invested in biofuel generation as a mill, we are also in a unavailability of electricity and gas; impediment to market access; unfavorable finan- better position to withstand the tough energy shortages.” cial and economic environment; poor law and order; terrorism within the country, He explained, “For processing mills, steam generation is a higher cost than the and international travel advisories. electricity component. Rice husk, an indigenous and cheaply available raw material, “Regardless of what the association decides about the voluntary closure of is used at our mill to produce steam for operations and this has really worked out for mills, we will continue our operations and not miss a single deadline,” said Yousuf us. This year, we will invest more in biofuels, reducing our energy bills and providing Abdullah, managing director of Sapphire Finishing Mills, based here. “The associa- us with a reliable alternative to the national utility companies.” tions speaks more for spinners and smaller mills than for larger mills specializing in Smaller mills are not in a position to afford self power-generation and have to rely value-added products.” on the utility company Wapda as a backup when gas is not available. When that is not Sapphire makes cotton and cotton stretch fabric for Gap, Levi’s, Aéropostale and forthcoming, the companies are left with no options, which is why so many of them American Eagle. It then ships the fabric to be made into garments to mills worldwide have shut down, he pointed out. that are selected by the brands. Some of these mills are located here, and others are “Speaking for not just mine but other large mills doing business with quality U.S. in countries like Bangladesh, India and Egypt. brands, I assure that we will continue our operations and no commitments to U.S. “Sapphire is profitable on an annual basis, so we average out our costs. Because importers will be missed,” stressed Abdullah. “We factor the ground reality into our every winter gas is diverted from industry to domestic consumers, we factor this in plans and are thus prepared to handle the seasonal energy shortage and the higher our planning,” said Abdullah. “We use furnace oil for steam and diesel for electricity. costs it entails.” WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 13, 2009 17 WWD.COM MEMO PAD GROWING EMPIRE: Bill Wackermann is expanding his activities. Sound familiar? Harry is the grandson of reach at Condé Nast. On Monday, Wackermann, who, none other than Britain’s reining monarch of gaffes, as senior vice president and publishing director, Prince Philip. oversees ad business for Glamour and Condé Nast In the midst of the controversy, however, Harry Bridal Media, was given additional oversight of has found a new supporter, another utterly divisive shelter title Domino. The magazine’s current vice character who’s accustomed to making the odd gaffe president and publisher, Beth Brenner, now will report himself: Prime Minister Gordon Brown. On Monday, to Wackermann. Brown defended the prince and praised his military “Bill Wackermann is one of our top business record. “I think the British people are good enough to brand-builders, and I look to him to leverage give him the benefit of the doubt,” he said. Maybe, Domino’s strong assets and continue to grow the maybe not. — Samantha Conti brand’s vitality in the marketplace,” said Charles Townsend, chief MAKING MONEY ANY WAY IT CAN: Looking to executive officer of capitalize on its history, Vogue has opened its Condé Nast, which archive and selected 10 images that have been put also owns WWD. on display in the lobby of 4 Times Square — and Domino’s are available to buy. Editors selected photos that circulation has span nearly 70 years, including Arnaud de Rosnay’s doubled in the photograph of Cher in 1967 wearing Sonny nearly four years Bono’s aviator sunglasses, Justin de Villeneuve’s since its launch, shot of Twiggy in 1970 and an image of model to 850,000. But Tatjana Patitz, taken in 1988 by longtime Vogue ad pages for the photographer Patrick Demarchelier. The images title have stalled, can be viewed until Feb. 16 and prices start at a victim of both $2,500. — Amy Wicks the broader economic decline and challenges in the housing market. Meredith Corp.’s Country Home, Hearst Magazines’ O at Home and Hachette Filipacchi Media’s Home have shuttered since last fall. Last year, Domino’s ad pages shrank 5 percent, to 692. The move displays support from the company for the title, despite speculation that Condé Nast was considering closing Domino, along with other smaller circulation magazines such as Details and Cookie. Media observers believed the titles would be sacrificed in the firm’s cost-cutting drive and would be part of that urban legend known as Condé Nast chairman S.I. Newhouse Jr.’s “January surprise” of massive reshufflings. So far, this is the only move unveiled, but are there more such reassignments of titles in the works? Keep that e-mail in-box clear in case more corporate press releases roll in. — Stephanie D. Smith

SCARY HARRY: The big royal news over the weekend was set to be Prince William’s proposal of marriage to longtime flame Kate Middleton. Last week bookmakers Twiggy, shot by Justin de Villeneuve. William Hill had even shortened the odds to 1-2 that the prince would put his girlfriend — and the MODEL DEAL: Wilhelmina International, the agency rest of Britain — out of their misery and finally ask behind the careers of Lauren Hutton, Anjelica Middleton when she turned 27 on Friday. Instead, it Huston, Beverly Johnson and Gabriel Aubry, among was Prince Harry who stole the show — as he so often others, is set to be acquired by New Century does. On Monday, the naughty redheaded prince got Equity Holdings Corp. When the transaction closes, a whipping in the British press after racist comments New Century will change its name to Wilhelmina he made in a 2006 home video surfaced in Sunday’s International. Public ownership will provide more News of the World. In the video, filmed when Harry opportunities for Wilhelmina to make acquisitions was at officer training school at Sandhurst, the prince and increase its talent pool, said Sean Patterson, refers to a Pakistani pal as “a little Paki friend” and president. — A.W. tells another fellow soldier he resembles a “raghead.” He also pokes fun at his grandmother, Queen Elizabeth FRESH EYES: After only two issues, WSJ. will have II, mimicking a telephone call in which he sends love a new designer shaping the look of the Wall Street to her corgis. Journal luxury spin-off. Alex Grossman, most recently Clarence House issued a formal apology over art director for Cookie, has been named design the weekend, saying the prince did not intend any director for WSJ. Grossman succeeds Tomaso malice, but that didn’t stop the press — across Capuano, who was the launch design director for the political spectrum — from letting loose. “The the magazine but was recently given a larger role of trouble with a hereditary monarchy is that you design director for The Wall Street Journal and Dow get what you’re given, a third-in-line of no great Jones & Co. Prior to Cookie, Grossman was a design intellectual acuity,” cried left-leaning daily The director at New York-based design firm Richardson Guardian. The conservative Daily Mail accused Sadeki, and founded FADA Design, a design company the prince of “incredible crassness,” while The catering to the hospitality industry, in 2000. A Telegraph, another right-wing title, said the prince replacement for Grossman at Cookie has not yet was showing “an unfortunate propensity” for finding been revealed. He reports to WSJ. editor in chief Tina himself in hot water due to inappropriate remarks or Gaudoin. — S.D.S. AJC to Honor John and Laura Pomerantz John and Laura Pomerantz wiLL be hon- tremendous. they are well-respected leaders,” ored monday by the american Jewish Committee said Jaime Kelstein, national director of develop- as the recipients of this year’s national human ment at the aJC. relations award. Pomerantz is former chairman of the board of John Pomerantz is president of JJP advisory LLC the undergraduate college of the university of and former chairman and chief executive officer of Pennsylvania; a founder of the albert einstein Leslie Fay, and Laura Pomerantz is principal and College of medicine; a trustee emeritus of the founding partner of PbS realty advisors LLC. the Fashion institute of technology, and co-chairman couple will be feted at a reception at the breakers of the educational Foundation for the Fashion hotel in Palm beach, Fla., at 4 p.m. Sen. nan h. rich industries. Laura Pomerantz has been a member of Florida is the guest speaker, and david a. harris, of the Carnegie hall board of trustees and sits on executive director of the aJC, is the keynote speaker. the board of the richard tucker Foundation and “they are being honored for their generosity women in need. and their communal activities, which have been — Lisa Lockwood ADVERTISEMENT Textiles Italian Style Italian Textiles: Intriguing Plays Between Extremes

orty major Italian textile and accessories producers Uslenghi, a widely recognized trend consultant. A sober from the regions of Biella, Como and Prato will serve minimalist theme is characterized by both advanced Ricamiﬁ cio Gimar F up an exciting offering of their latest developments technology and organic materials, thus communicating energy for the Spring/Summer 2010 season under the banner of and incisiveness. A decorative maximalist theme expresses I-TexStyle at Premiere Vision PreView New York at the joy, but also includes subdued and shaded forms. Metropolitan Pavilion/Altman Building in New York City DP Tessuti takes its inspiration from the colors of the January 14-15, 2009. Caribbean – particularly ocean-blue azure and the various I-TexStyle, organized by the Italian Trade Commission NYC, shades of sand. Complex constructions in cotton, cotton/ is an important meeting for Italian companies that wish to cashmere and linen achieve voluptuous, almost foamy effects. present their prototypes and new ideas that will carry into A wide range of organic linen will also be available. All fabrics Milano Unica, the major industry trade show taking place in have been Okeo-Tex 100 certified and finishings comply with Milan on February 3-6, 2009. eco-sustainable rules. The pre-collections lay the foundation for the producers’ “Our idea was to create fabrics for a new woman, essential complete Spring/Summer 2010 collections, which will be but sexy, classic but trendy. Colors and weave structures move shown at Milano Unica in Italy this February, and underscore easily from daywear into cocktail,” said Alberto Marzagalia, Italy’s commitment to innovative design. CEO, Millenium. Pure and optic white are evident on neat satins “Novelties can be found in the subtle, intriguing play and iridescence is prevalent. Light and pale shades convey between extremes — between fragilty and force, naturalness freshness in tones of pearl grey, off-white, sunrise blue and Waltrex Tricot and technology, moderation and excess,” explained Angelo delicate pink on unique prints, solid plains and wovens. Stone- washed, easy-to-wear fabrics have been rendered soft by special mechanical finishing processes. Duca Visconti Di Modrone Silk and cashmere will dominate the season. Polys blended Olmetex Divisione Velvis with silk create soft hands. New combinations of fibers result

“ Italian textile producers are long- experienced entrepreneurs with a spirit of positivism. We are aware that quality is valued by an experienced clientele and are conﬁ dent that Italian fabrics will continue to remain top American choices.”

Massimo Mosiello Duca Visconti Di Modrone General Manager, Milano Unica Divisione Flag Testa

Passamaneria Laniﬁ cio Europa Italiana “ The Italian fabrics and accessories industry has become increasingly quality-oriented and target- oriented and customization has become a priority. The ability to respond to the demand for small quantities of top-end products and the delivery of reliable services are the pillars of the new relationship with a traditional market like the U.S.”

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everyday tailoring and impeccable performance. Men’ s wear cloths inspire smooth, light and elastic fabrics. Stretch wools and stretch-cotton fancies are perfect for bottom weights. The jacket and suit line is available in wool and silk blends as well as the finest linen fabrics. T.E.S.J. Divisione Duca Visconti Di Modrone has developed a creative mix of structures in knits, solids, yarn dyes and piece dyes for elegant sportswear and streetwear. Jacquards in strong-yet-fine fibers offer a luxurious hand. A collection of yarn-dyed lightweight cottons, light crêpes, very rich satins, densely woven lightweight poplins for trousers and pure linens from Duca Visconti Di Modrone Velvis are inspired by the different shades of the cosmos, including Tese o Cadicagroup pale lights, neutrals and chalky whites, intense honeys, roses, ambers and terracottas as well as the dark, intense colors of summer nights. Silks, cottons, cotton/silk blends and wools in basic colors Linea Tessile Italiana such as black, white and navy are the key for smart luxurious " The Italian Trade Commission cruise apparel from TessilBiella. Weave structures with relief continues its commitment to enhance designs for rich looks. Textured surfaces and shining supporting Italian textiles and finishings are important. trimmings in the U.S. market Basket weaves, twills and cavalry from Mario Bellucci reveal by participating in trade fairs, crispy textures and relief effects. Khaki, earth, pewter, chalk offering seasonal trend and and a dark green mud are accented with yellow. A melting pot educational seminars and involving of yarn-dyed small checks, large-scale Madras, textured twills American fashion designers and and jacquards are colored in light powdery pastels of aqua, sky blue and skin tones mixed with sand beige, wood brown manufacturers in our events.” and grass green. Jacquards and multi-stripes appear in vivid flamenco red, sunset, tangerine, saffron and natural beige, all Aniello Musella on black grounds. Shades of blue melt with polo green and off- Trade Commissioner and Executive white in microstructures, Vichy, micro-stripes and masculine- Director for the U.S. at the Italian Trade inspired patterns. Fibers include cotton, linen and silk. Blends Commission in New York with polyamide and polyester are tactile, with performance Efi lan characteristics. The collection from Tessilstrona features wool blends with silk, linen, cotton, viscose, acetate, polyester and polyamide. in light fluid fabrics. Recycled plastics, an option for poly and to do just that with our proposals.” said Michele Viganó, export Densely woven fabrics are lightweight with a soft touch. corn-based fabrics are ethically essential. manager, Seterie Argenti. Luxurious fabrics include extra-fine wools in super 180’s and Taiana Blu, a division of Tessitura Taiana will launch a mini- Divisione Duca Visconti Di Modrone emphasizes the collection of yarn-dyed products for fine underwear. Colors importance of natural fibers and recycled cotton. Mixing cotton, include cosmetic-inspired pink, bronze, bright and soft reds as linen and silk with synthetic and artificial fibers, the company “ The business relationship well as sky blue and deep shades of ocean blue. Natural hues has created structured, light and fluid fabrics. Jacquards play between the Italian textile and — based on spice colors such as chili, saffron, turmeric and with different compositions of natural and technical fibers while trim producers and the U.S. coriander — provide the highlights. romantic and art-deco themes influence the designs. Three- manufacturers continues to be Strong colors team up with yellow accents in stripes and dimensional geometries and fractal designs are underlined by geometric patterns. Reworked cashmere prints, camouflage the use of technical yarns. Light and whitened colors, sea and very strong. The U.S. market is and plain graphics appear in natural colors. Gray and mélange sky shades give a matte and misty effect. the locomotive for the economy backgrounds are illuminated by touches of fuchsia, violet, GE.TE.CA Manifattura D’Olmina Divisione Duca Visconti Di worldwide and we feel confi dent yellow and turquoise. Modrone creates light and dark effects using different blends that it will be a positive infl uence Yarn dyes and prints are mixed and matched. New graphic underlined by designs and weaves. The palette ranges from on the rest of Europe.” shapes, coupled with overprinting, are injected with bright white—the dominant color—to natural and shaded pastels. Yarns colors representing the digital world. Millerighe stripes are are extremely fine and lightweight. Natural fibers blend with silk, Vincenzo Pagano key. Paisley motifs, faux camouflage and textured structures cupro or rayon. Colors turn into stripes and irregular checks. Director, Pratotrade appear in a range of colors from spices to fruit. Coordinating designs and colors from Bozzalla & Lesna- Lanificio Europa will feature fancies, new jacquard designs Divisione Duca Visconti Di Modrone have been engineered for and special ammonia finishings for clean, satiny looks. Transparent and opaque aspects enriched by coatings will also be shown. Cotton fabrics and linen, blended with silk and Fantasie Tricot Miroglio bamboo, suggest freshness. Popeline offers a clean, smooth look. Satin prints for holiday show off fruits such as strawberries and cherries while jacquards have been over-dyed. A collection of florals and spotted prints express a sense of adventure. Silk, linen, cotton and viscose are the key fibers from Linea Tessile Italiana. Often mixed in crêpe and crepon structures, the fibers are available with crinkled qualities and in shaded floral patterns in light, sophisticated colors. The Seterie Argenti collection includes pure white, lightweight weaves and gauzy effects; mother-of-pearl organzas; and 100-percent cotton or cotton/silk voiles with chalk and powdery effects. Basket weaves and fil coupé contrast transparent and opaque effects. Devorés and seersucker effects with drapey handles offer a light softness. Overlaps, reliefs with metal effect, crêpe georgette, and crêpe de chine will also be available. Finishings are softly worn and Mario Cucchetti Seterie Argenti crinkled. “Fashion gives the illusion of pleasure, and we’ve tried ADVERTISEMENT

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Alessandro Benelli President, Pratotrade

yarn for luxury shirts. “Organic patterns from Miroglio draw inspiration from nature while the plant world influences a range of greens. Purples remain strong, revealing all nuances of blue. Neutrals are tinted with pink and mauve, clay and sand. Finishings are Duca Visconti Di Modrone acheived with bright colors like fireworks . Gritti Group Ocean Divisione Bozzalla & Lesna Afro-Indian American cultures inspire prints. Soft blurry stripes are touched with overprints of subtle shaded patterns. Monotones with a splash of color, tropicals with dark brights and flowers. and water color-like, Monet-type florals will also be prevelant . “ I always ﬁ nd unique design Finishings result in crispy hands, green sensations, slightly Puckered seersuckers, Madras, handkerchief and towelling inspiration in the latest offerings rough or chintz effects. Fibers have an imposing silk look, trying checks are among the woven structures. Fibers are focused on from Italy and remain attracted to achieve an organza effect. Yarns are mixed: natural-artificial, cottons blended with silk; smooth linens; pure and dense silks; shiny-opaque and thin-thick. Bio-fabrics dyed with natural organza, chiffons and charmeuse silks; translucent cottons; to the great classics of the Italian colors will also be available. rippling crêpes and silk-like smooth polyesters. yarn and textile industry. The Fantasie Tricot focused their collection on Chic Urban Pizval has added an embroidery line to their romantic superb quality and their inventive Luxury. Colors are natural-cream, light pink, light green, white collection of laces. Colors will be clear and natural but also techniques translate into a and light grey mélange. Jacquards in different weights are bright and strong to underline summertime. The main lace greater perceived value with our suitable for T-shirts and dresses. African themes influence patterns are cluny, chantilly, valenciennes and tulles. Laces in end consumer.” fresh designs on colorful printed jerseys. Silk, Modal, viscose, natural fibers and the trim collection will feature new gold or linen, cotton and Micro Modal yarns are worked together in new silver coatings. Alfonzo Yepez blends. Biologic knits made from bio-cotton and milk fibers will Bottonificio B.A.P. places an emphasis on patented recycled also be presented. materials, such as tree fibers, recycled paper and quartz. There Design Director, Generra Cotton, viscose and silk in light fabrics and shirting weights are two themes: “Wild” draws its inspiration from the gold are the important developments from Lanificio Campore. rush with colors that are bright and somewhat metallic while Colors are white, lilac, blue and wisteria, with pastel colors for “Decadence” focuses on dark colors in irregular shapes in a super 150’s. Soft touch crêpes in high-twist torsion create the fancy tweeds. move away from the luxe and excessive. bright effects while mono-stretch fabrics are perfect for easy Specializing in the finest shirting cotton, Testa looks to the ”We are increasing our business not only in North America wear. Gauffre/piquet fabrics with fine weave achieve a three- American summers of the ‘50s in its new collection. Yarns and but also in the South American markets as a result of the hard dimensional effect. fibers include cotton, silk and linen. Fine and extra-fine yarns work we’ve done over the last three years with investments in The new “Organzino”’ — a silk-and-wool mouliné decorative offer weights that are almost airy. Flat and structured surfaces research, new patents for our products and strong continuous yarn — results in unusual spotted effects. Micro-designs with light and transparency are achieved by alternating relationships with our customers,” said Francesco Nembrini, include twill, tricotine, bird’s-eye, cannete, herringbone and backgrounds of greater and lesser density. Micro-weaves on export manager, Bottonificio B.A.P. tropicals. New tone-on-tone designs combine different weaves simple patterns, surprising jacquards and a packet of printed Buttons, plate and jeans accessories made in precious-look on the same ground. fabrics will also be offered, all freshly colored in natural shades – metals contrasted with rubber that’s been shaped by lasers Venetian sateen acheives shiny looks while failles reveal a bouquet of pale blues, diluted strawberry, pinks and fuchsia. are among the developments for denim looks by Metalbottoni. opaque/matte looks. Light ottoman effects, tone-on-tone Hands are smooth, slippery and chintze-like, worn-and- stripes with wool and polyester deco, Prince of Wales, Madras, washed or crackly with irregular textures. A new package of over-checks and multistripes will also be presented. fabrics dedicated to their “Atelier Romentino” collection, is “ The emphasis will be on higher The most important concept behind the Teseo collection made from Luxton, a very fine, hard-wearing Egyptian cotton quality, greater creativity and are contrasts between technology and biology and wealth exclusivity and will be more in line and simplicity. The shades will be colored, neutrals spaced " Italian genius; living, designing and with the products of the Como with vintage, eccentric and passionate colors and a myriad companies.” of tonalities like the rainbow and flowery meadows. Weaves textiles. No more need be said." feature relief structures, embossings, voluminous aspects with lightness and transparency, fil-coupé, seersuckers and drapery John Peterman Beppe Pisani appearances. Prints reveal pixel effects, lines and architectural Chairman, J. Peterman President, Idea Como evocations, vanished images, graphics, mix-and-match motifs

Tessitura Taiana Virgilio Bottoniﬁ cio B.A.P. I-TexStyle at Premiere Vision PreView New York Pre-Collections Spring/Summer 2010 January 14–15, 2009 The Metropolitan Pavilion 125-135 West 18th Street

BOTTONIFICIO B.A.P. B8 Tessuti Fada Metalbottoni CADICAGROUP B22 CUCCHETTI TESSUTI A20 DP TESSUTI B29 Lanfi cio Campore “ At Pratotrade, we keep investing in DP Tessuti DUCA VISCONTI DI MODRONE B83 specialization and producing high EFILAN B66 quality textiles. We believe that’s the ERICA INDUSTRIA TESSILE B67 best way to satisfy our customers.” FADA TESSUTI B42 FANTASIE TRICOT B49 Alessandro Benelli FEDERICO ASPESI B60 President, Pratotrade FLAG DIV. DUCA B83 GETECA - MANIFATTURA D'OLMINA- DIV. DUCA B83 GRITTI B20 LAN. BOZZALLA & LESNA DIV. DUCA B83 LANIFICIO CAMPORE B14 LANIFICIO EUROPA A4 LANIFICIO LAMBERTO B13 LANIFICIO NOVA FIDES B19 Lanifi cio Lamberto Lanifi cio Top Wool LANIFICIO SUBALPINO B28 LANIFICIO TOP WOOL B12 LIMONTA A3 Tecnonaturale, a modern interpretation of the eco-vintage look, LINEA TESSILE ITALIANA B18 combines the extremes of metal and wood materials for jeans MARIO BELLUCCI B15 “ The textile industry represents and casual wear. Women’s wear buttons are simple and chic, a METALBOTTONI B21 one of the essential elements that modern interpretation of the vintage look with a natural feel. determines the unique quality High-frequency technologies and microinjections, carbon MILLENIUM B68 of ‘Made in Italy.’ The U.S. has fiber, glass-fiber, Kevlar and refractive materials create new MIROGLIO B47 remained an important market types of labels from CadicaGroup. Stonewashed vintage effects OLMETEX A14 for Italian textiles and we are can be treated with food inks and special printing techniques. PASSAMANERIA ITALIANA B72 Proposals made with Eco-Sustainable products create an eco- confi dent that our exports to this PIZVAL B71 chic labelling with low environmental impact. RICAMIFICIO GIMAR B58 important market will be strong.” The new offering from Gritti Group’s Ocean line, “Black SERMEN B11 Knight,” is dedicated to elegant street style with embossed Carlo Rivetti brass and zamac and modern materials such as carbon. The SETERIE ARGENTI B63 Vice-president of Sistema Moda Italia activewear collection includes labels, buckles and zip pullers T.E.S.J. DIV. DUCA B83 in charge of international promotion, made in rigorous zamac, with shiny rubberized finish. A double- TAIANA LINEA CULT B23 and President and CEO of Sportswear jointed button and the “college button” with stem, made in TESEO TESSITURA SERICA DI OLMEDA B61 Company zamac bi-composed with thermoplastic rubber, are also TESSILBIELLA B30 among the new offerings. TESSILSTRONA B27 Aluminium and steel shape buttons, hooks, zippers and TESTA B52 buckles and evoke a strong genuine jeanswear concept in “SW-JNS”, a vintage proposal. VIVOLO B7 Duca Visconti Di Modrone WALTEX TRICOT B48 Divisione T.E.S.J. WEFT B69

“ Because they combine so many techniques, Italians make incredibly innovative textiles. They are always right on target with what’s happening and take great pride in their products!” 33 East 67th Street New York, NY 10065-5049 Duca Visconti Di Modrone Linda Bretti Tel: 212.980.1500 Fax: 212.758.1050 Divisione GE.TE.CA. President, Linda Richardson [email protected] www.italtrade.com 22 WWD, tuesday, january 13, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com. Retail Stocks Decline 2.8% 10 Best Performers By Evan Clark es to drive traffic,” said Amy Noblin, retail equity analyst at Pali, in a research Retail stocks slid 2.8 percent note Monday, noting returns outweighed DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt on Monday as stores and investors sales on some days for some retailers. limped toward fourth-quarter results Seventy-five-percent-off signs are High Low Last %Change next month and President Bush, at still a fact of life for some stores as the request of President-elect Barack retail supply and demand have yet to Obama, asked Congress for the remain- come into balance. 1.95 1.66 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 207756 1.80 +9.76 ing $350 billion in bailout funds agreed Noblin said Aéropostale Inc., Chico’s to in October. FAS Inc. and Urban Outfitters Inc. have 3.53 3.20 Delta Apparel (DLA) 16.1 31201 3.25 +5.52 The Standard & Poor’s Retail Index done a relatively better job of clearing fell 8.06 points to 277.37, outpacing the out winter inventory, but Abercrombie 8.60 7.11 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 3956 8.47 +4.70 market on the way down. & Fitch Co. and Zumiez Inc. still had Late in the day, Moody’s Investors “substantial clearance” to work though. 0.75 0.71 Safilo * (SFL:MI) 8.2 2350684 0.74 +4.23 Service placed privately held Neiman Specialty stores of every stripe were Marcus Inc.’s ratings under review for pos- bruised in Monday’s sell-off. sible downgrade and affirmed its SGL-2 Among the decliners were Eddie 12.28 11.20 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 11.1 4267 12.28 +3.98 speculative grade liquidity rating. Moody’s Bauer Holdings Inc., down 17.7 percent action was prompted by Neiman’s 27.5 to 65 cents; Tween Brands Inc., 15.5 per- 28.28 27.23 Family Dollar (FDO) 16.6 3997853 28.11 +2.22 percent dip in December same-store sales cent to $4.03; Charming Shoppes Inc., 10.4 and cited the “unexpected magnitude of percent to $1.90; Zale Corp., 10.2 percent 9.93 9.82 Orchids Paper (TIS) 16.6 11976 9.93 +1.33 the revenue decline, as well as the poten- to $3.08; The Talbots Inc., 10 percent to tial loss of aspirational customers and the $2.07; Pacific Sunwear of California Inc., 65.86 64.80 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 18.8 3131468 65.59 +1.06 weaker spending by Neiman’s traditional 8.7 percent to $1.37; Bebe Stores Inc., 7.3 upscale customers.” percent to $5.98; The Men’s Wearhouse 14.51 13.86 Cato (CTR) 15.2 296941 14.31 +1.06 The Dow Jones Industrial Average Inc., 7 percent to $12.32; New York & fell a milder 1.5 percent, or 125.21 points, Company Inc., 6.8 percent to $2.20; Gap to 8,473.97 as Citigroup Inc. declined 17 Inc., 6.7 percent to $12.12, and AnnTaylor 50.47 48.96 Nike (NKE) 13.8 3432623 50.12 +1.03 percent amid speculation the banking Stores Corp., 5.9 percent to $5.09. giant would spin off of its Smith Barney Broadline retailers were also on the brokerage business. More help could be wane with Dillard’s Inc., down 10.3 per- on the way for Wall Street, should law- cent to $3.83; Saks Inc., 7.7 percent to $3.72; makers OK the second half of the $700 Nordstrom Inc., 4.2 percent to $13.37, and 10 Worst Performers billion in bailout funds, which would be Macy’s Inc., 3.6 percent to $9.93. distributed under Obama’s watch. The consumer weakness has trickled DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt Retailers will likely have to bail them- down through the stores to the vendors selves out or sink, as has already been that supply them, which are also getting High Low Last %Change the case for some weaker players in the pushed around in the stock market. market. So far this year, Goody’s Family Vendors losing ground Monday in- Clothing Inc. decided to liquidate and cluded Perry Ellis International Inc., 0.45 0.24 Hartmarx (HTMX) - 997604 0.31 -31.11 urban-themed Against All Odds USA Inc. down 12.8 percent to $4.51; Liz Claiborne filed for Chapter 11 protection. More are Inc., 9.2 percent to $2.97; G-III Apparel 7.61 5.92 Developers Diversified (DDR) 7.7 5990864 6.02 -21.20 expected to take a similar route after what Group Ltd., 8.9 percent to $5.75; Oxford was the weakest holiday season in years. Industries Inc., 7.8 percent to $7.18; Jones The outlook for at least the next few Apparel Group Inc., 7.1 percent to $4.57; 1.89 1.41 General Growth (GGP) 9.5 11919354 1.48 -19.13 months doesn’t look any cheerier. True Religion Apparel Inc., 6.3 percent “The mall was substantially slower to $12.27; Phillips-Van Heusen Corp., 7.89 6.26 CBL (CBL) 16.7 2363656 6.48 -18.28 this week than last and retailers are in- 6 percent to $17.53, and The Warnaco creasingly blunt in their market messag- Group Inc., 4.8 percent to $17.12. 0.82 0.63 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 504006 0.65 -17.72

4.85 3.76 Tween Brands (TWB) 6.3 476372 4.03 -15.51

Primark to Probe Illegal Work, Wage Claims 0.60 0.50 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 0.6 18300 0.51 -13.56 By Nina Jones particular audit process. Primark apol- ogizes for the harm and distress to the 5.29 4.50 Perry Ellis (PERY) 4.7 155631 4.51 -12.77 LONDON — Primark, the U.K.-based innocent employees of both TNS and discount clothing chain owned by TNS’ subcontractor, Fashion Wave.” 17.06 14.82 Macerich (MAC) 8.8 3329634 15.16 -12.17 Associated British Foods, said Monday Primark added that it had reported the it would investigate claims made by the alleged illegalities to the relevant U.K. 1.35 1.16 Crocs (CROX) - 1406537 1.16 -12.12 BBC and London’s Observer newspaper authorities. that working practices at one of its U.K. Despite the allegations, Primark’s suppliers are illegal and unethical. vast store on London’s Oxford Street * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on the A report that appeared Monday on continued to do brisk business Monday London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs the BBC’s Web site alleged that an in- afternoon. Claire Hallam, a London and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. vestigation by an undercover reporter student shopping at the store, said found that one of Primark’s U.K. sup- claims about Primark’s labor prac- pliers, TNS Knitwear in Manchester, tices wouldn’t stop her from frequent- along with one of its subcontractors, ing the fast-fashion chain. “I do think Ellen Tracy Signs Deal for Intimates Line employed illegal immigrants and paid about [the allegations], but it doesn’t By Karyn Monget ing best-in-class partners for our port- them below the U.K.’s minimum wage. stop me shopping, especially during folio of brands. Our decision to partner The full report was due to appear on the credit crunch,” said Hallam. “If I Brand Matter LLC, owner of the with the Komar Co. is critical to the ongo- the BBC’s “News at Ten” show Monday had more money to shop in more ex- Ellen Tracy brand, has signed a licensing ing goal of expanding our brands in rel- night, while some of the allegations also pensive places, then I wouldn’t shop agreement with the Komar Co. to produce evant product classifications.” appeared in the Observer on Sunday. at Primark.” the first collection of intimates bearing Leigh Van Swall, senior director of li- Videos on the BBC’s Web site apparent- Her sentiment was echoed by anoth- the Ellen Tracy name. censing at Brand Matter, said, “There are ly showed TNS’ owner telling the BBC er London student, who would only give The collection, which will include sleep- categories open to go after, and we saw reporter she would be paid less than her name as Rina. “It’s a shame that wear, at-homewear, robes, foundations, intimate apparel was a huge opportunity the minimum wage of 5.73 pounds, or [unethical labor] happens anywhere, but shapewear and lingerie, will launch this fall for Ellen Tracy.” $8.49 at current exchange, an hour, and [Primark is] cheaper than most places, at major department and specialty stores, Existing licensed categories for Ellen another showed an employee saying he and I don’t really have a choice.” including Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tracy include women’s sportswear, foot- worked in the U.K. illegally. Following the allegations, the U.K.’s Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Lord & wear, coats, dresses, suiting, legwear and “The apparent practices shown in to- Ethical Trade Initiative, which aims to Taylor and Dillard’s, said Rick Platt, presi- eyewear. day’s BBC News broadcasts are a matter improve the lives of workers in global dent of Brand Matter. He noted that distri- Charles Komar, president and chief of great concern to Primark,” the com- supply chains — and of which Primark bution will be aimed at 250 doors that carry executive officer the Komar Co., said, “We pany said, adding it had paid to have is a member — asked that the retailer Ellen Tracy apparel, as well as 18 Ellen look forward to building a strong new cat- TNS Knitwear independently audited remove the ETI’s branding from its Tracy outlets. “That is the [bridge] category egory with their team.” in April and December of last year and stores and Web sites while the claims we are going to start with,” Platt said. Known as a lifestyle brand, 60-year- had a corrective action plan in place are investigated. “Primark is surprised Industry sources said the mulitcategory old Ellen Tracy features sophisticated “dealing with the issues discovered.” and disappointed with the public stance collection could generate first-year whole- color palettes and signature prints. Mark “The audit process did not, however, adopted by the ETI,” the firm said sale volume in excess of $25 million. Platt Mendelson, ceo of Ellen Tracy, described discover all of the apparent practices Sunday. “Primark will defend itself vig- would not give a first-year sales projection the brand’s customer as a “woman who’s portrayed by the BBC,” the company orously in any ETI internal inquiry that other than to say it is “pretty substantial.” outgrown the contemporary phase. The said. “Primark is undertaking a full should arise, and we expect to be com- Regarding the partnership with the Ellen Tracy woman believes there’s a investigation, which includes whether pletely vindicated.” 100-year-old Komar firm, Platt said: huge void between contemporary, trendy, this is due to any shortcomings in this — With contributions from Poppy Grant “Brand Matter is committed to develop- classic and traditional merchandise.” WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 13, 2009 23 WWD.COM IN BRIEF • BOSS CONFIRMS BRASHEAR: The Hugo ware, Royal Doulton china and Waterford and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte and Sari Oxford Industries and launched Ben Boss Group named Mark Brashear as the crystal. Meanwhile, on Monday, a spokes- Gueron, according to Gen Art. Sherman clothing. Recently, he served company’s first president and chief exec- woman for Deloitte declined to com- as president of Mallory & Church and utive officer for the Americas, confirming ment on a report in the London Times, • COLUMBIA’S NEW CFO: Thomas Cusick DC Design International. In his new post, a report in WWD Monday. Brashear, who saying members of the Wedgwood family has been promoted to vice president, Gershkowitz will oversee tailored cloth- begins work on Thursday, will oversee are supporting a rival offer by an Asian chief financial officer and treasurer of ing sales for the Joseph Abboud clothing the brand’s business in the U.S., Canada, conglomerate to demerge Wedgwood Columbia Sportswear Co., effective Jan. collection and will seek to develop its bet- Latin America, South America and the from the Waterford business and make 23. Cusick, who joined Columbia as cor- ter specialty store business. Gershkowitz Caribbean. Brashear, 47, was the presi- the pottery manufacturer an indepen- porate controller in 2002, succeeds Bryan will report to company president and dent of Façonnable for six years before dent brand. Timm, who was promoted to chief oper- chief executive officer Marty Staff. leaving last March. He launched his ca- ating officer of the company last May and reer with Macy’s and held several execu- • GEN ART OPENS FOR SUBMISSIONS: added the title of executive vice presi- • IZOD LUGGAGE LICENSED: Phillips-Van tive positions with Nordstrom. Submissions for Gen Art’s Styles 2009: dent in October. Cusick was promoted to Heusen Corp. has inked the first luggage International Design Competition can vice president in 2006 and became chief license for its Izod brand with Ricardo • WATERFORD WEDGWOOD CUTS STAFF: More start pouring in Monday until March accounting officer upon Timm’s promo- Beverly Hills for an initial term of three than 300 employees have been made re- 17. Student designers, as well as those tion to chief operating officer. Prior to years. The Los Angeles-based company dundant at Waterford Wedgwood U.K. who have been designing under their joining Columbia, he spent seven years will design, produce and distribute Izod plc as Deloitte negotiates to sell the com- own name for seven years or less, are with Cadence Design Systems and five luggage, backpacks, sports bags, duf- pany to KPS Capital Partners. Deloitte, eligible. Five finalists in each of the five years with KPMG LLP. fel bags and travel accessories begin- Waterford Wedgwood’s administrators, re- categories (women’s ready-to-wear; evening with the fall ’09 season. Founded vealed the redundancies Monday, a week ningwear; avant-garde; men’s wear, and • JA APPAREL NAMES SALES EXEC: JA in 1978, Ricardo Beverly Hills markets after the company’s British and Irish di- accessories) will be invited to participate Apparel Corp., the company that owns luggage and travel bags under its own visions filed for administration, the U.K. in Styles in New York on May 7, where the Joseph Abboud brand, has named brand and the licensed Vera Bradley equivalent of Chapter 11. Deloitte is in a panel of industry professionals will se- Ross Gershkowitz as vice president label. The suggested retail price of an talks with KPS Capital Partners, a New lect a winner from each category to win a of sales for its tailored clothing busi- Izod wheeled 21-inch carry-on will be York private equity group, to purchase $5,000 Award for Design Excellence. Past ness. In his 20-plus years in men’s wear, $180 to $240. Izod is licensed in 24 prod- Waterford Wedgwood’s U.K. and Irish di- competitions have launched the careers Gershkowitz has been vice president uct categories to 22 domestic and five in- vision, which produces Wedgwood table- of designers including Peter Som, Laura of clothing and dress furnishings at ternational companies.

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Ship/Operations Mgr DESIGNER Manage wholesale and retail shipping RETAILERS & /operations, luxury apparel co. Min 3 yrs dom + int’l shipping / customs and EXCESS INVENTORY BUYER MANUFACTURERS logistics exp. Please send resumes to: Immediate Cash/No Inventory Too Large [email protected] FT Retail Sales Associates No Hassle/Integrity Driven/Closeouts Needed DISTRIBUTION SERVICE Outdoor Base Layer Clothing seeks: 901-338-6364 www.fusioninternational.net SHANGHAI TANG, a unique and [email protected] Logistics Coordinator •Pick & Pack Services •Handling of freight from factory to SPORTSWEAR TECH Minimum 2 Year experience for NJ modern luxury lifestyle brand has •Apparel & Hardgoods forwarder immediate openings in our Madison •Deal w/ factories re: customer routing based company. Fax resume to: •Consolidation Services 201-867-5563 Avenue Store. We are looking for ex- •Established 1977 Charlotte Ronson seeks a Designer with guides min 3- 5 yrs experience. Extensive fa- •Negotiate rates w/ freight forwarder, perienced and motivated individuals •Prestigious Client List miliarity w/contemporary market incl trucking cos., courier services to work in a fast-paced and dynamic Spaces •Approve traffic invoices & entering •Great Management Team trends, color, fabric, styles. Strong working environment. •Dedicated Hardworking Employees Photoshop, Illustrator and Excel re- receipts of goods quired. Fashion show experience a plus. Excellent salary and benefits. Findings Buyer Requirements: Minimum 2 years of COMMERCIAL •Ordering labels, elastic, packaging TECH DESIGNER Send digital portfolio w/resume to: Contemp. Sportswear & Swimwear mfr. retail sales experience in luxury CALL: Rob Brody [email protected] •Control of findings inventory & en- REAL ESTATE tering bill of materials Seeks candidate w/ 2-5 yrs exp. Must fashion industry is essential. (201)865-1100 be highly organized, detail oriented & Knowl. of Excel & Blue Cherry req. able to work in a fast paced environment. • Possess strong sales & customer Freelance Production Fax/Email resume: (914) 937-0600 Should have working knowledge of services skills. [email protected] swimwear & contemp sportwear fit, Manager - Outerwear construction, specs & grading for both. • Self-starter & have enthusiastic PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Part-time, experienced with domestic Must be team player, proficient in Excel personality. production. Please send resume to & work closely w/domestic and overseas • High degree of responsibility with PRODUCTIONS [email protected] factories. Competitive salary & benefits, Showrooms & Lofts Full service shop to the trade. email resume [email protected] positive working attitude. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR • A good team player who is able Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Production Supervisor, light mfg, Bklyn. to work independently; and multi- Min 5 yrs exp req. Comp: salary, bene- task in a dynamic environment. Grand Central Terminal fits. EOE. Fax or email resume, salary Special Events Manager req: 718-853-8805. [email protected] Interested parties, please email resume to: Event planning, production management, or retail operations experience [email protected] EOE/MFVD preferred. For info: www.GrandCentralTerminal.com SALES PERSON Showroom for Share Millenium Clothing Women’s Sportswear Looking to share brightly lit 1000 sf Co., seeks an Energetic, Qualified, Expe- Sales Person 39th Street showroom. Immediate oc- rienced & Team work oriented Sales cupancy available - own office space - New York based importer of moderate Person established in Women’s Sportswear ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE priced fashion jewelry. Est’d factory w/ also willing to sublet if interested. IMPORT MANAGER to bring in new clients & take over estab- Please contact 800-430-6011 Est’d Pvt. Label Co. w/overseas production quick turnaround, 3 - 5 years experience Apparel Company seeks individual lished client base. Only serious motivated for woven/knit tops, denim /non denim preferred. Reps also welcome. Email or fax who has thorough working knowledge applicant must apply. Salary plus bottoms. Seeking seller to earn commis- to:[email protected] / 516-570-6577 COSTUME JEWELRY/ of import process & will monitor & co- Commission. Reference required. sioned $$... Looking to add new customers ordinate all aspects of merchandise to already established business. Must PROD MGR/DESIGNER movement from vendor to designated PRODUCTION COORDINATOR be a self starter with a positive attitude. Lge Access Co sks jewelry merchandiser warehouses in the most cost effective Millenium Clothing Women’s Sportswear Pls fax resume to 212-290-2483 or to manage prod development team for manner. Email / fax resumes to: Co., seeks an Individual having Expertise email [email protected] jewelry div. Must have exc skills in devel 212-842-4016 or [email protected] in Cad, Photoshop Illustrator. Fashion /design w/min. 5 yrs exp & solid Asia Design Knowledge, trend update and bkgrnd. Email res: [email protected] color direction sense. Individual must be diligent with communication skills New York Account Exec to deal with Factories in China, India, One of China’s largest mfrs seeks an PATTERN/SAMPLES MERCHANDISER $80-100K Bangladesh. To input orders, send out Acct Exec. Est’d Relationships a must. Garment center location. Professional Designer $45-50K JUNIOR SPORTSWEAR sampling & Tech.packages follow up Specialty Chain, Mid Tier & Discount /Reliable Quality. Men & women all style. TECH PACKS For NYC Apparel Co. Expr. Merchandiser production approvals. Must be Task Stores. Email Res: [email protected] Low Cost. Small production. 212-563-3331 For NYC Apparel Co. Create tech pks. needed for this trendy Jr. Dept store achiever, Computer Literate and willing for this jr. apparel line. Req: 1+ yrs. line. Must also have prev. Jr. Sportswear to work with commitment. Only serious Sales Assistant Patternmaker expr. working on tech pks, , Jr expr design and merchandising backgd. & motivated applicants must apply with NYC Children’s Apparel Co seeks sales PATTERNS, SAMPLES, expr giving direction to designers. opportunity to grow. Reference required. Experienced sportswear, jackets, pref, knowl of Illustator, Korean lang a+. asst who is highly motivated, detail dresses, missy and large size. PRODUCTIONS E-mail resumes: [email protected] Req: 5+ yrs. expr. as merchandiser. oriented. Must have 1 yr exp in whole- E-mail resumes: [email protected] Send resume to: 973-985-1205 All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel)914-337-3660 [email protected] sale. Fax resume to 212-967-7395 or Call Sherry 212-719-0622. (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel)914-337-3660 email to: [email protected] Business as Usual

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