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Testinos Juwelen ICON NOVEMBER 2014 ICON NOVEMBER O O O O November 2014 Testinos Juwelen ICON NOVEMBER 2014 ICON NOVEMBER O O O Unser Ausdruck einer Ära Seventies Chronograph Seventies Chronograph. Start. Stop. Fly-Back. Den Konstrukteuren und Designern der Manufaktur ist es gelungen, eine einzig- artige Kombination von Funktionen zu vereinen: zentrale Stoppsekunde, 30 Minuten- und 12 Stunden-Zähler mit integriertem Glashütte Original Boutique ∧ QF, Quartier an der Frauenkirche ∧ Töpferstraße 4 ∧ 01067 Dresden Tel. +49 (0)351 82 12 59 70 ∧ E-mail: [email protected] O Flyback-Mechanismus, kleine Sekunde sowie das Glashütte Original Panoramadatum. Mit einer Gangreserve von 70 Stunden ist der präzise und formschöne Zeitmesser ein zuverlässiger Begleiter. O O O DR_34947_IconFlorale_514x365_BD_001Seitex1von1 1 O 07.10.14 16:39 O O O O CARL F. BUCHERER CARL F. Stillgestanden ein, da ist nichts verloren gegangen. Auf dem Ziffernblatt der Uhr aus den 1930er-Jahren läuft tatsächlich nur ein Zeiger, weswegen auch nur eine ungefähre Zeitbestimmung möglich ist. Das Foto stammt aus dem Jubiläumsbuch von Carl F. Bucherer „125 Years Swiss History of Time“ und abgesehen von seiner ästhetischen Schönheit gefällt uns die Idee des N Ungefähren ziemlich gut. Weil es zurzeit gerade passt, da Nebel nicht nur wie gewohnt durch Landschaften wabern, sondern auch durch vertraute Gewissheiten. Die Uhr wurde gefertigt in einer Epoche des Umbruchs, in vielerlei Hin- sicht, aber eben auch im Uhrenmarkt. Die Schweiz exportierte in den 1930er-Jahren erstmals mehr Armbanduhren als Taschenuhren, die dann relativ rasant an Bedeutung verloren. Der Lauf der Zeit. Das ist so ein Kommentar, wenn wir Entwicklungen, die uns (noch) nicht geheuer sind, erklären wollen. Mittlerweile macht sich ja das zunehmend erschöpfende Gefühl breit, dass die Zeit nicht mehr nur läuft, sondern davonsprintet, als wäre sie Usain Bolt. Und auch deshalb raten wir zu ungefähren Stunden ab und an. Der Novem- ber, der erste der dunklen Monate, ist dabei mit seinem Gemütlichkeitspotenzial ein guter Komplize. Und wir haben deshalb ein Heft zusammengestellt, das schon ein bisschen Weihnachtsstimmung aufkommen lässt, für das uns vor allem aber die großartigen Foto- grafen Mario Testino, Peter Lindbergh und Henrique Gendre Fotos geschickt haben, mit denen man einfach mal die Zeit vergisst. MARIO TESTINO Von Kate Moss bis Angelina Jolie: Mario Testino ist eigentlich der Fotograf der Stars. Es sei denn, der Hochadel steht mal wieder vor seiner Kamera. 1997 machte der gebürtige Peruaner Lady Diana zum Covergirl der Vanity Fair. Die ikoni- schen Aufnahmen der Princess of Wales, die nur wenige Monate nach diesem Shooting ums Leben kam, sind unvergessen. Den Lieblingsfotogra- fen seiner Mutter engagierte auch Prinz William 2010 für sein Verlobungsbild mit Kate Middleton. Doch ob königlicher Hof, Vogue oder Versace, Testino steht nicht allein für High Fashion. 2002 begeisterten seine „Portraits“ in der National Portrait Gallery in London. 2012 stürmte Shanghai sei- ne „Private View“ Ausstellung. Für uns hat das Ehrenmitglied der Royal Photographic Society unveröffentlichte Lieblingsaufnahmen von Gisele, Naomi, Cara, Kate und Co herausgesucht und kommentiert (Seite 50). Am 16. November wird er zudem die ganze WELT am Sonntag gestalten. Auf dem Cover: Innige Freunde. Supermodel Gisele Bündchen und Starfotograf Mario Testino stellten sich für ICON dem Selbstauslöser bei einem Shooting in Paris Anfang Oktober. Beide tragen ihre privaten Sachen. PETER LINDBERGH Er erfand die erzählende Modefotografie und die Supermodels. Im Januar 1990 machte Peter Lindberghs Cover- Shooting für die britische „Vogue“ Furore. Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Tatjana Patitz, Cindy Crawford und Christy Turlington kassierten danach Traumgagen und Starruhm. Doch auch Filmgrößen treten mit Vorliebe vor seine Kamera: Deneuve, Malko- vich, Travolta, Winslet. Die Arbeiten des unprätentiösen Fotografen und Filmemachers, der eigentlich Dekorateur in Duisburg werden sollte, sich ei- ne Weile später aber in Krefeld für Freie Malerei einschrieb, schließlich seine endgültige Berufung fand und seit 1978 in Paris lebt, finden sich in Ma- gazinen wie in Museen weltweit. 2000 wurde sein Dokumentarfilm „Inner Voices“ beim Filmfest in Toronto ausgezeichnet. Im italienischen Portofino setzte Workoholic und Familientier Lindbergh erneut Uhren von IWC in Szene. Natürlich mit internationalen Topmodels und Filmstars. Ab Seite 90 HENRIQUE GENDRE Seine Karriere begann der in New York lebende Brasilianer mit 16 Jahren als Modezeichner. Später studierte Hen- rique Gendre Kunst an der Universität von São Paulo und zog nach London, um Fotograf zu werden. Sein Credo: Arbeite immer mit dem Herzen, wie ein Kardiologe. Inzwischen umfasst sein Portfolio Aufnahmen für Magazine wie „Vogue“ und „i-D“, Zeitungen wie „The Sunday Times“ und „The Guardian“ oder Marken wie Adidas, Levi’s, Nike, Max Mara und Coca-Cola. Hätte es ihn nicht hinter die Kamera gezogen, wäre Gendre Bildhauer geworden. Unlängst schuf er seine erste Bronzebüste. Feuerwehrmann hingegen kam ihm nie in den Sinn. Auch nicht, als vorbeiziehende Passanten beim Shooting im Fort Tryon Park in Upper Manhattan einen aufkommenden Brand befürchteten. Schuld da- ran war der klare Himmel über dem Big Apple. Er machte eine Nebelmaschine für das richtige Novembergefühl am Set notwendig. Ab Seite 68 IMPRESSUM ICON Chefredakteurin: Inga Griese (verantwortlich) Textchef: Dr. Philip Cassier Redaktion: Caroline Börger, Nicola Erdmann, Julia Hackober, Silvia Ihring, Sarah Lehnert, Ligia Tudorica, Mira Wiesinger. Korrespondentin in New York: Huberta von Voss, Stylistin in New York: Nadia Rath. Korrespondentin in Paris: Silke Bender. Autoren: Susanne Opalka, Esther Sterath, Andreas Tölke. Redaktionsassistenz: Ursula Vogt-Duyver Artdirektorin: Barbara Krämer Gestaltung: Maria Christina Agerkop, Delia Bob, Katja Schroedter, Doris Wildt Fotoredaktion: Julia Sörgel; Elias Gröb Digital Editing: Thomas Gröschke, Kerstin Schmidt Verlagsgeschäftsführung: Jan Bayer (Vorsitzender), Dr. Stephanie Caspar General Manager: Johannes Boege Gesamtanzeigenleitung: Stephan Madel; Anzeigen ICON: Roseline Nizet ([email protected]) 13 Objektleitung: Carola Curio ([email protected]) Verlag: Axel Springer SE Repro: Druckvorstufe WELT GRUPPE Berlin Druck: Prinovis Ltd. & Co. KG, Nürnberg Herstellung: Olaf Hopf ICON ist ein Magazin der „Welt am Sonntag“, die nächste Ausgabe erscheint am 7. Dezember 2014. Sie erreichen uns unter [email protected] TITEL: BENJAMIN TIETGE; DIESE SEITE: MARTIN U.K. LENGEMANN; ALIX/ALLPIX PRESS; PETER LINDBERGH; HENRIQUE GENDRE LENGEMANN; ALIX/ALLPIX U.K. MARTIN DIESE SEITE: TITEL: BENJAMIN TIETGE; Unsere Standards der Transparenz und journalistischen Unabhängigkeit finden Sie unter www.axelspringer.de/unabhaengigkeit O THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS TO EVERY RULE. ES GIBT AUSNAHMEN ZU JEDER REGEL. ROYAL OAK ROSÉGOLD MIT DIAMANTBESATZ. AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM O Mario Testino über Joan Smalls: „Spanisch ist die Muttersprache von Joan und mir. Uns verband sofort, dass wir Witze machen können, die sonst keiner um uns herum versteht. Joan besitzt Anmut und Charisma. Und sie gehört zu den Models der Stunde – ich nenne sie ‚Instagirls‘, weil sie Superstars in den sozialen Netzwerken sind. Die Leute lieben diese Mädchen und ich auch.“ Mario Testino und seine Frauen ab Seite 50 Vogue Brasil, Buenos Aires 2013 ICON NOVEMBER 2014 36 WOLLNSE ’N AUTOGRAMM? Dann müssen Sie mit dem Unterschriften- Automaten von Jaquet Droz nicht mehr selbst zur Feder greifen 38 ROSA WELT Think pink: Wir spendieren der ultimativ femininen Farbe eine ganze Seite 42 EINFACH TANNENHAFT Warum wir uns dieses Jahr in jedem Fall auf grüne Weihnachten freuen MARIO TESTINO 46 NICHT NUR TAFELSILBER Bei dieser Farbe fällt uns mehr als Besteck AUSGEWÄHLT 50 TESTINOS FRAUEN ein: 13 Ideen, die buchstäblich leuchten Eigentlich muss man an dieser Stelle nichts 20 GESCHENKT mehr erklären. Und wenn doch: Der Meis- 48 INS GLAS GUCKEN Was den Menschen im Herbst schön ter hat für uns zur Kamera gegriffen und Mit den Flaschen von Cornelius Réer wird macht: Unsere Lifestyle-Weisen stimmen sein Archiv geöffnet. Das reicht, oder? die Übung zum reinen Vergnügen sich auf das Jahresende ein 64 ROCK ’N’ RUCKSACK 66 BRILLANTE STUBE 28 SUPER ICONA Louis Vuitton feiert seinen 160. Geburtstag. Diese Möbel sind nicht nur Schmuck, son- Das ICON-Model entdeckt eine neue Karl Lagerfeld entwarf dafür einen Box- dern sie sehen wirklich so aus Dimension – und Icomi trinkt dazu gewohnt Sack, Marc Newson einen Rucksack formvollendet eine Tasse Tee 68 NEW YORK GANZ GRÜN Von wegen Steinwüste: Wir waren für unser Shooting dort, wo die Bewohner des Big MODE Apple so richtig durchatmen Oberteil von Dries Van Noten. Pailletten- rock: Michael Kors. Minirock (darüber): Miu LUXUS RELOADED 30 Miu. Ohrring: Chanel Haute Joaillerie. Nachhaltigkeit ist das große Wort der Bran- Armband & Ring von Chopard. Mehr von che – aber wer macht wirklich Ernst damit? unserem New-York-Shooting? Ab Seite 68 Barbara Coignet hat in Paris eine Messe für GESCHENKE wahrhaft guten Luxus initiiert 32 SCHREIB! DAS! AUF! Hermès hat eine Edelfeder konstruiert. Der 40 ABGELEDERT Chef Pierre-Alexis Dumas philosophiert Wie entstehen eigentlich die makellosen über die Macht der Worte Oberflächen bei Taschen wie von Prada? Das Familienunternehmen Dornbusch aus 34 GOLDENE ZEITEN Kempen kümmert sich Mit diesen Accessoires glänzt das Wohn- zimmer zur Heiligabend-Bescherung 44 SCHIRM UND CHARME Der Regenschirm war ein wichtiger Be-
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