Royal and Historic Gloves and Shoes , Trusting To

PR E FACE

H E early intention with regard to publishing pictures of

on e gloves and shoes was a very modest , but having once f f got to work , I ound materials cropped up rom various

unexpected quarters , and thus a more ambitious volume is the result . From the outset my aim has been to give accurate and reliable

of illustrations royal and historic gloves and shoes , trusting to

for of these success rather than upon any literary display , that part the matter having already been efﬁciently done by several well

known authors .

e e I Whatev r works may have been written on gloves or sho s , venture to think that hitherto no attempt has been made to illustrate

the subjects by such pictures as are contained in this volume .

With the exception of the pictures of gloves in the Victoria and Albert Mus eum and those taken from the Stuart Relics exhibited

N G L e e e at the ew allery , ondon , every plate has be n sp cially tak n

for f e this work rom the xisting article , either by photographs

fu when possible or , when more convenient , by care lly made water colour drawings by myself ; in every case absolute accuracy has

been attempted . The information contained in the Introductions to the two sub

ects e e j , and the d scriptions given to each plate , will , it is hop d , vi PR EFACE

prove usefu l and interesting to thos e to whom the work will appeal

of the most , viz . to artists , workers embroidery , antiquarians , curators

of m . useums , and possibly to the public generally

of of The labour gathering together suitable specimens , and

ni f i for f d r obtai ng in ormat on the brie esc iptions , has not been very

tw o l light , and has extended over some years , whi e as a reward it has brought me into contact with a number of collectors an d others

in who have given kindly help my undertaking . To those who I have so willingly lent me their treasures tender my sincere thanks ,

f of I their names appear at the oot each description . also desire to record my grateﬁal acknowledgments to those whose names I

e giv below , who , among others , have assisted me by advice , intro du c on s ti . , and by other means in producing this volume

M A V H . A . D l . . . . U iscount il on , J W Clark , , niversity E H Registrary, Cambridge, Mrs . R . . ead , Messrs . C . W . Bell ,

A A H ll of N llen Fea, mbrose arding, Mi er Christy , the Bursar ew

e O f Ofﬁ of Coll ge , x ord , and the Trustees and cials the various

e al Mus ums who have given me access to their treasures . I am so

e Palm - of ind bted to Messrs . er Clarke , Cambridge , and other photo

ra hers fu g p , who have well and care lly carried out my wishes in producing the pictures . R W B. . .

CAM RI DGE I 0 B , 9 4. L IST O F PLATES

G L O VE S

WN R PLATE. O E ' GLOVES H ENRY V A e de la Fou ta zu e E s r OF III lfr d , g .

’ BI P W Y E AM S L E New Co e e Ox o SHO K H G OV ll g , f rd

GLO VE S KING HENRY V F ee Pu blic u eu Live oo OF I r M s ms, rp l ARMOURED LEATHER GLOVE Tow er of Lon don SCALED LEATHER GLOVE A CHAI N MAIL GLOVE

AIN MAIL AND LATE L E Ca e u eu Nor wi h CH P G OV stl M s m, c A PAIR OF SCALED LEATHER GLOVES The A u thor STEEL MITTEN GAUNTLET HENRY VIII GAUNTLET STEEL MITTENS

’ ' SIR ANT NY DENNY L E Vi oria a n d A be M u eu S K en s z u tou I HO S G OV ct l rt s m, . g 5

H AW ING LO E O E HENRY V A h o ea n u eu Ox o I K G V III s m l M s m, f rd 7

’ W ITE L E Vic o ia a nd A ber u eu S K en s z u tou 1 8 H G OV S t r l tM s m, . g

’ A LADY L E ohu H a a E . 1 S G OV [ ll m, sar 9

’ LADY S HE R INGTON S GLOVES 20

MITTE Ns

’ EEN ELIZ ABET L E AT O X ORD A h o ea n u eu Ox or QU H S G OV S F s m l M s m, f d

' ' AN ELIZ ABET AN L E Wz llia m H en Ta o E . H G OV ry yl r, sar

’ ' ' L RD DAR NLEY S F M u a Threz la u d E . UF IV. O C rr y p , sar

' W u eu GLOVE O E MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS Saﬁ ron a lden M s m

’ S A E PEA E E D r H o a e H owa Fu m ess H K S R S GLOV S . r c rd

’ L E K ING AME A e de la Fon ta zu e E r. G OV S OF J S I lfr d , sa

' EARLY SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY GLOVES Sou th Keu s zug tou Mu seu m GLOVES O F K ING CHARLES I

- L E K ING ARLE I A . C a rk Ken ne E s r. G OV S OF CH S l dy, q LI ST OF PLATES

PAG E No PL AT E WNER . O

L E K I NG ARLE I F. B en n e S a n o E . V. XXIII . G OV OF CH S tt t f rd, sar

L E O K ING ARLE II S eid G OV F CH S Mrs . p

V A SE ENTEENT -CENT RY LO E Ca a in S ti XXI . V H U G V pt ll A L E SE ENTEENT ENT RY G OV , V H C U

XX THE NA EB E The Au ho V . S Y GLOV S t r V XX I . L E O LI ER R MW ELL T u hor V }G OV S OF V C O he A t XX II .

L E O F THE LORD R TECT R Si - a r on V . A 11 . on C XX III G OV S P O O Mrs. . mps s

XXIX . GLOVES OF CHARLES II

A AIR W ITE L E Se o r L ca E s r . R . A . XXX . P OF H G OV S ym u u s , g , BR W N L E XXXI . O G OV S

SPAN O E Vic a n d A be u eu S . K en in o n . A I L oria XXXII SH G V t l rtM s m, s g t

’ A LA E The Au tho XXXIII . DY S GLOV S r V W ITE L E XXXI . H G OV S V A A ALIER ’ L E XXX . C V S G OV

V A AIR ENGLI L E n d A e u eu S . Ken in on . Vi oria a b XXX I P OF SH G OV S ct l rtM s m, s g t

A W T Au ho XXXVII . PAIR OF BRO N GLOVES he t r A A E Lu a E s r R . L Se o r . G OV ym u c s , q ,

V THE AST N HAL L L E XXX III . P O G OV

’ A LADY L E r R A . Se o r Lu a E s . S G OV ym u c s, g ,

AI S E - . A R RT L wm ht E . W. Co e Plo XXXIX P OF HO G OV S l g , sar

’ XL A LADY s L E X RD M u u Ox . O A h o ean e o G OV , FO s m l s m, f rd

’ XLI. EEN ANNE L E O X RD QU S G OV S , FO

’ L A A A IE E o Scien ce a n d Art X II . C V L R S GLOV S E din burg h Mu seu m f

L A AI SE EN EEN - CEN X III . P R OF V T TH TURY GLOVES The Au thor

’ L V A A LAD E Art X I . P IR OF Y S GLOV S E din burg h Museum of Scien ce and

’ COLONEL DUCKETT S GLOVES The Au thor XLV. A PAIR OF LEATHER MITTENS

LV . A AIR I EN u r X I P OF M TT S E din burg h Museu m of S cien ce a d A t LI ST OF PLATES ix

S H O E S

Pm ; OWNER h a s E IE A S E I . M D L V HO S Northa mpton M useu m

I I MEDIE AL S OES . Gu i ha M u eu Lon on V H ld ll s m, d

M rs S . eymour Lucas a n d MEDIE AL AND T ER S E III . V O H HO S The Au ho t r.

IV MEDIE AL TOE - PIECES . Gu i ha M u e Lon on V ld ll s um, d

V MEDIE AL S E AND ATTEN . V HO P S

VI . B T KING HENRY VI F ee Pu b i M eu Liver oo OO S OF r l c us ms , p l

V . EA ED S E FI TEENT ENT RY G. C. H a ité E II P K HO , F H C U , sar.

VIII . CHOPINES Ashmolea n an d B ritish Mus eu ms

’ IX . EEN ELIZ ABET B IN A h o ea n M eu Ox o QU H S USK S s m l us m, f rd

S E EEN E Z ABE HO S OF QU LI TH E a rl Brown low X %S E EEN EMIA ‘ HO OF QU OF BOH Saﬁron Wa lden Museum

- XI . S E KING ARLE I Gen W. E . G. L on Bu wer HO S OF CH S . ytt l A ALIER BO T SE ENTEENT ENT RY . No ha on M u e XII C V S O S, V H C U rt mpt s um

MILITARY AC - BO T T w XIII . J K O S o er of Lon don

’ V AP AIN LE NCHE S F . T B T A S . . ie E s r XI C OO ld, g . X A V . MILIT RY BOOTS SHOES OF QUEEN ANNE % SHOES AND CLO Gs Northa mpton Mu seu m

’ V D E O CE E OO A h n . L T R B T o ea u eu Ox o X II UK F G OU S S s m l M s m, f rd S E EIGN O EEN ANNE HO S OF R F QU Mrs . Seymou r Lu cas V AIR O LADY ’ S E SE ENTEENT ENT RY X III . P F S HO S, V H C U The Au thor ’ A LADY S SHOES AND CLO Gs

’ LADIE S OE SE ENTEENT ENT RY . E kin a hew XIX . S H S , V H C U Mrs l M t s SHOES OF THE REIGN OF W ILLIAM AND MARY Se u Lu a M rs . ymo r c s LORD TREVOR ’S SHOES

M rs Se ou r L a SHOE OF THE R EIGN OF GEORGE II . ym uc s

’ A LADY S E EIG TEENT ENT RY . C. M . Priche XXI . S HO , H H C U Mrs tt

S e m u Lu a COMBINED SHOE AND CLOG Mrs . y o r c s

M D ARD EIG TEENT ENT RY No ha on u eu U GU S , H H C U rt mpt M s m A O TILLION ’ BOOT EIG TEENT ENT RY XXII . P S S , H H C U Ca t e u eu Norw ich } s l M s m, A M ILITARY GAITER LI ST O F PLATES

PL TE E PAG E A OWN R ’ LADY YELL W S ES EIG TEENT ENT RY The Au hor S O HO , H H C U t

XXIII. A GENTLEMAN’S SHOE V LADY ’ S E AND L G A D r. W. T. Bens e XXI . S HO S C O S ly

V SLIPPER AND S OE The Au hor XX . S H S t

A BRIDAL SHOE E din burg h Museu m of Scien ce

xxv1. A LADY ’S SHOE

V VARI S S E SLIPPERS AND LOG XX II . OU HO S , , C S EA TERN S E AND PINE V S HO S CHO S XX II I . TURKISH SLIPPERS

EN A I EN ’ S E XXIX . O RI T L CH LDR S HO S

A XXX . FRICAN SANDALS

AMERICAN MOCAS SINS

XXXI . AFRICAN SANDALS

. PINE Fite m r H . he Es . XXXII CHO S y , g

ROYA L A ND H ISTO RIC G L O VE S A ND S H O E S

H ISTO RICAL INTRO DUCTIO N ON G LO VE S

HA e f T glov s , in some orm or other , at ﬁrst in a limited

e u se f e e way only , hav been in rom a v ry early p riod is

ee without a doubt, and much has b n written at various times on their origin and use ; and this renders it less neces sary in the e en th } t present work to deal in any p dantic or l g y j ith he history or manufacture of either of the subjects :to is work

i s . for the e of the e e sh dedicated Still , b neﬁt casual r ad r a ort

r esu me of few e e f e ur ma n o b e a g n ral acts conc rning, o subjects y”t

et altog her unnecessary .

dl S ’ ﬁ d The origin of the glove has never been actually CO e/ f ﬁ but

e I u se e e . it was c rtainly n in v ry arly times 0

Pe s e of e h the e rhaps the earlie t m ntion glov s is t at in Bibl ,

e e e e e the for wh re R b cca , in ord r to secur birthright her son Jacob , put skins on his hands that so his father Isaac should not recognise the younger from the elder of the sons .

ef e f e B ore glov s , in their most primitive orm , b came in any

e r e e e sex o r d g e to be commonly worn by ith r , by cleric layman , the want o f a covering for the hands was very probably supplied by

B 2 GLOVES AND SH OES

ee e f h long and loose sl v s alling at will over t e wrists and hands . Numerous illustrations could b e given o f this kind o f sleeve as a

- e e f m e e ae hand covering d rivabl ro brass s and m di val pictures .

P e e N rf o f A In r ns Church , o olk, is a brass to the memory nne

e A D e Saw tre H Duk ( . and anoth r in y Church , ants ; and in many others in variou s parts o f the country exquisite repre s entations are f e o f f e e - to be ound , in brass and ston , the alling sle v or turn over ’ ff e for the e cu , usable as a cov ring wear r s hands .

P é H isto o Br itish Costu me e of the lanch , in his ry f , sp aks sleeves

e of e e e e — e and mantl s the l v nth c ntury being used as hand cov rings .

G e the e w e loves , though probably very unlik articl with which

f the the are amiliar , were known to , and worn by , Roman and

G ee r k . ’ W e e of P e f e of H hav the authority lanch that a t r the time enry I .

D I I e e e e A . e ( 3 5) gloves , som short , som r aching n arly to the lbows ,

‘ embroidered at the tops and j ewelled at the backs if pertaining to

f e P P e e e . rinces or r lat s , becam r quent

‘ He e is a ni e s e e f e r deﬁ t tat m nt rom a reliable authority that glov s , lain and embro rdered e e e both p w re by no means uncommon , v n at this early p eriod of our history .

orc ester e r l I Cath d a s a monument to King John , on which the is e e e e in e the r pr s nt d his r gal habiliments , and on hands 1 w r are gloves ith j ewelled Wo k on the backs .

‘ In I 3 7O merchants were allowed to import leather gloves into

G e e e of ascony , which prov s that glov s had become articl s common

e I 6 e f e b e everyday w ar ; in 5 4. gloves w re orbidd n to imported into E 1 82 ngland , and this prohibition was not withdrawn till 5 There is ample evidence that a large and regular trade existed in this country at an early date ; brasses o n various tombs and sculptured eﬂi ies h he o f t e f . t g absolutely conﬁrm act In Church Fletching, in f e . o of Sussex , is a memorial to a glov r It consists a plain slab GLOVES AND SH OES 3

e e of on e e e ston , in which is insert d two small plates brass , r pr senting

of e e e the a pair glov s , with slightly mbroid red gauntlets , showing

of the e e e palms the hands ; and on s cond brass , plac d imm diately

Hie acit Pe below the ﬁrst , is an inscription commencing, J tros ”

Den ot G . The b e 1 A 0 . the , lover date may about 4 5 gain , in

of . e he e s P t . A s Church St ter , in chanc l , at St lban , a bras shield at

on e e e of on e A G D A. 1 tim marked the grav John tkin , lover ( . 4 4 9) ’

e e s e ler . . C ken th r is also a bra s to Bishop Bell in St Jam s s Church ,

e L he e e e e e w ll , ondon , on which is r pr sent d w aring glov s .

e e e N G oldw ell Th r is a monum nt in orwich Cathedral to Bishop ,

e e f - e eﬁi the of r pr senting a ull l ngth gy, on hands which , though

e e b e es e . gr atly mutilat d , may seen glov with j welled backs Thomas a Becket is said have been buried wearing his o flicial

e e gloves . This adds to the evid nce that glov s , at any rate among A of e e . ccl siastics , were in common use pair gloves are men ) icu lfu s d 1 tion ed of R AD. in the will Bishop , who die 9 5

H 1 1 8 e . e A D . , , , nry II who di d 9 and 3 rault 3 is described as wearing his coronation his golden Crown on

‘ W heIi s o f Ki e e . his h ad , and glov s on his hands the tomb ng John

E 1 2 e e o en ed n 1 1 6 o . A D . A. D f ( . 2 ) and dward I ( 07) w r p d the

’ e e e f n the of bdtli e ighteenth century, gloves w r ound upo hands th se monarchs .

’ ’ Probably the earliest existing examples of Clerical gloves are t e of of e f 1 80 of New hos William Wyk ham , the ounder , in 3 ,

e O f e e the A Colleg , x ord , which are now pres rv d in shmolean

Museum in that city . the the e o f H e VIII . e In r ign nry glov s , worn by nobility and

e e fu e e e e e gentry , w re gen rally beauti lly and laborat ly mbroid r d and

e o n the e o f ee e s e f e es e e lat r , in tim good Qu n B s , p r um d glov b cam

f the . quite the fashion among ladie s and gentlemen o Court f Early in the s ixteenth century a curiou s cu s tom prevailed o 4 GLOVES AND SH OES

the e of the having slits cut in ﬁng rs the gloves , in order to display

he of he j ewelled rings on t hands t wearers . “ A e 86 8 e Stow, in his nnals pag , describ s how Millo

e H e e Imbro dered n rs , or aberdash rs had not th n any gloves y , or

e G Imbro dered G trimmed with gold , or Silke neith r old nor y irdles

H e e e e fu e and angers , neith r could th y mak any costly wash or p r m , until about the fourteenth or ﬁfteenth yeare of the Queene (Eliza

e the E w de Ve e E e of O f e b th) right honourable d ard r , arl x ord cam f G e sw eete b a es rom Italy , and brought with him lov s gg , a

e fu e e e e eer p r m d l ather Jerkin , and oth r pl asant things , and that y the Queene had a payre o f perfumed Glove s trimmed onely with f Tu ftes e of cu llered e e e e oure or ros s Silk , the Que n took such

e e e G e she e G e pl asur in thos lov s , that was pictured with thos lov s u on for eeres f the E pp her hands , and many y a ter it was called arle ” of O f e f x ords p r ume . ' Stow i ‘ Videritl in e e e e e c sE t y ‘ error wh n he says hab rdash rs had n i h r

e the of e E glov s till time Que n lizabeth ,

‘ as suCh article s ar ed in various documents at a much

e a e ma of E f e earli r d t , though they y not have been nglish manu actur O mon or in c m use . Progress of Qu een E liz a beth it is recorded that ‘ en wem to Cambridge In 1 5 78 the Vice Chancellor pre sented a pair Of gloves perfumed and garnished with emb roiderie ’ w ou rke l f e e and goldsmith s , price . It ortun d that the pap r in which the gloves were folded to op en and hir Majestic b ehou lding the beau tie of the e said glov s , as in great admiration , and in token o f her f o f the on e of her thank ul acceptation same , held up hands , ”

e lf w aie . and then sm lling unto them , put them ha upon her hands

A fu e e e e e e e e s per m d glov s b came mor common , quaint r cip s w r published instructing ladies and others in the art of making

s es co smeticks e fu T e f e e f e . h wa h , and p r m s ollowing , xtract d rom

GLOVES AND SHOES the e of e o r e e hous s nobl men and gentry on ent ring citi s and towns , and on these state occasions the gloves had probably been specially i e f n ade and b auti ully embroidered .

e Shakespeare makes several of his characters speak of glov s . In the M ereéa ii t of Ven ice Portia asks Bassanio for his gloves ; in ’ meo a a a a liet l of em , V the e Ro 7 and in the p ay H p . glov is spoken ’ l T Tert/z of. a oe Fa ir M a ia o Sir W ter Scott, in f , gives a Simon

l er for f e f e the f Ca téa r ia e G ov . o a ath r , and in Chapter II that nov l air “ is described as laying aside the splendid hawking glove she was ” e e for the L mbroid ring ady Drummond . A striking feature in ancient gloves is their great length and size ; but it must be remembered that ﬁt was scarcely a consideration in

‘ e —ﬁttin e arly days , the tight and well g glove being comparativ ly a modern invention .

The fashion . In the gloves and mittens of the civilian was often

” me for .o l ess the I of reproduced, or , in ron gauntlet the warrior , on

’ which Chasing or ongraving would take the place of j ewels and embroidery .

the of C e the f e e e reign harl s II . beauti ully embroid r d glov s a e to tho e o f the me gra g v place s a plainer character , and at sa time c easod to be so often used as a love or other token of any

' e z hou h e e of signiﬁcanc , t g even yet it retains som small trac s its past

m e ﬁI n eral e are f . A s i portanc t , to this day , glov s o ten distributed to the e e e s the mourn rs , and at what are known as Maid n S s ions local authoritie s present white gloves to the j udges and Recorders . h Huds o n Pork Fanc , ’ T 6 6 l T ROY S T FE E

GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE I BI S HOP WYK E HAM ’ S GLOVE FOURTEENTH CENTURY

FR OM A DR AW ING BY THE AUTHOR

H E f of of e le t hand glove a pair great inter st and beauty ,

e 1 e and , taking into consideration th ir age (5 7 y ars) , in a wonderful state o f preservation ; they are made of

e o n the ff crimson , purl knitted , silk , mbroidered backs and cu s with

e The e he f . t gold , now aded and tarnish d octagon d signs round cuffs are s eparate d by small s quares of green silk a double band of

e l e The e e gold embroid ry encirc es ach ﬁnger and thumb . ntire l ngth of the gloves from the tip of the middle ﬁnger to the edge of the cuff ff is 92inches . The cu s are lined with crimson silk : the circles

the of the e — e on back hand , with their sixte n ﬂame point d arms

e e work d in gold , surround the sacr d monogram Thes e early ecclesiastical gloves belonged to William of Wyke

of e e f of N e O f ham , Bishop Winch st r , the ounder ew Coll ge , x ord ’ e e o f . f O e (originally designated St Mary s Coll g Winchester in x n ord) ,

1 e in 3 79 , and w re probably worn by him at the opening religious

e A 1 1 86 cer monial , pril 4 th , 3 .

e fu e of New Th y are care lly pr served in the Treasury College , O f x ord . 8 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE II

GLOVES OF K I N G H ENRY VI

E A A LE of fi f e — e R M RK B pair te nth century glov s , which

e H V of fi b longed to enry I . They are made ne brown

e Spanish l ather , lined with deer skin , tanned with the hair

the e on . The gauntlets reach to lbow , and can be turned down when

e are e for — e requir d . They describ d as small enough a middle siz d ” e 1 8 the woman ; th ir total length is inches , and the width across

o o he e t p f t gauntl t is 73 inches .

The f the of H King was concealed , a ter battle exham , at Bolton

H e e e e all , Yorkshire , and th s gloves wer giv n by him to Sir Ralph

P e e H f uds y . Th y were long treasured at Bolton all , and a terwards ’ H of a e at ornby Castle , together with a pair the s m monarch s boots . o of P L The pr perty Free ublic Museums , iverpool .

GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE III

No . 1

ARMOU RED LEATH ER GLOV E

LE - HAN of ff- FT D glove coarse bu coloured canvas , with plates of russet iron overlapping each other riveted on to

of strips stout leather , which are stitched on to the glove

of itself. There are eight of these protecting plates on the back the

e hand , and the same number on the under side , each plate t rmina

in the of ting a band which is engraved and gilded . From tip the middle ﬁnger to the end of the gauntlet the glove measures

I of e — e 1 0; inches . This s an unusual example a sixte nth c ntury of L duelling glove . In the Tower ondon .

NO . 2

SCALED L EATH ER GLOV E SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

OU ff for ST T bu leather glove the right hand , having a

e of gauntlet compos d overlapping leather scales , each a

of f f quarter an inch thick , and astened to a oundation by

f o f f of string, a small tu t which appears on the sur ace each scale .

is The gauntlet is split open at the outer side , and drawn together ” of al by a lacing string with met points . 1 f The glove , which measures 4 inches in length , came rom the

- - e o L P e f . Bryn y ys Coll ction , and is now in the Tow r ondon 10 GLOVES AND SHOES

No . 3

A C HA I N MAI L GLOVE

H e fo r the ft of IS interesting glov , le hand , is made a whitish

ff fi a bu leather , which is entirely lined with ne riveted ch in

of mail , within which is a lining thin canvas to prevent the

f fi of h G e of mail rom cha ng the hand t e wearer . lov s this kind

e of e - e of the were a cunning devic the glov mak rs sixteenth century , and were used by duellers in what may be called the period

of e ma in ou cée e e the dagger , when both rapi r and dagger , or g , w r

e mployed in conjunction with each other in the deadly duel . ’ ’ A H e Toe r . Swo a a u a tae Captain utton , in his excell nt book ,

Cen tu ries e of i - e , d scribes how , with the aid a ma l lined glove, a w apon could be seized by its blade and wrenched from the hand of an

the of e of opponent , even though edges the blad his dagger might b e f urnished with sawlike teeth set backward like tiny barbs .

s e f Bardin i e Thi glov came rom the Coll ction , and is now in the

o f H E s r possession W . . Fenton , q .

GLOVES AND SHOES 1 1

PLATE C HAI N MAI L AN D PLATE GLOVE

SIMILAR glove to that given In the preceding plate

e of (No . but in this case it has lost its outer cov ring

e The e e e of e l ather . gauntlet is str ngth ned by plat s ste l ,

6 e e e 5inches long and riv ted to the chain mail , giving gr at prot ction f f to the orearm against a slashing cut rom a sword . This glove measures 1 5 inches from the tip of the middle finger to the bottom of an d fo r the eft the gauntlet , is l hand .

of the N In the collection Castle Museum , orwich . PLATE V PAI R OF SCALED LEATH E R GLOVES

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

E of FIN pair gauntlet gloves like the one given on Plate III .

al of 1 8 but much longer , measuring a tot inches ; the

e e the l ather overlapping scales are notch d at edges , as are also the tabs by which the four leather buttons confine the openings of the of the outer sides gauntlets .

A H l of Captain . utton exhibits a very strikingly simi ar pair

l of gloves in the Museum at Whitehal , which he describes as being uffal l b o leather , and as having been worn by a cava ier during the

1 6 G 6 . 1 6 0 reat Rebellion , 4 5 . f the l The gloves are in per ect condition , and are in co lection of A the uthor .

GLOVES AND SHOES 13

PLATE VI

STE EL M ITTEN GAUNTLET

SIXTEENTH CENTURY

e of legant mitten locking gauntlet steel , engraved on the

of on e back the hand and the gauntlet , which is ﬁnish d

o ff e of f of by a roped edging , a good exampl the ashion ornamentation of gloves of both the military and civilians of the period .

of L . From a drawing by the Author . In the Tower ondon 14 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE VII

No . 1

E I I I T ET H NRY V . GAU N L

IGHT— HAN e of e in D locking gauntl t polish d steel , slightly

The e e e e the e laid with gold and engraved . vi ws r pr s nt mitt n

s he e e e . e e t closed and open resp ctiv ly Wh n clo d , w apon ,

e the b e e of the h ld in hand , could not displac d , as the mitten part

f e e e glove was ast n d securely by a proj ecting riv t and hook . The

m of of orna entation , by means engraving and inlaying, is a similar

of an character to the embroidery to b e found on the gloves civili s . H V of . This gauntlet belongs to a suit armour worn by enry III ,

of L and is in the Tower ondon .

NO . 2

STEEL M ITTEN S

SIXTEENTH CENTURY

W O fine mitten gauntlets of the sixteenth century .

From drawings by the Author .

In the Tower o f London .

GLOVES AND SHOES 15

PLATE VIII

SI R ANTH ON Y D ENNY ’ S G LOV E

NE of a pair of leather gloves with white satin — covered gauntlets cut into panels and embroidered with blue and red

a toer s tite/i a /i u é e en silk in ﬁ , with pp g rais d padded work ,

e e riched with s ed p arls and gold thread , gimp and spangles , and f e e e e e urth r ornam nt d with gold and silv r lac . On the panels of the gauntlet appear the Crown over the Tudor

e the Rose , alternat d with the Thistle while between the panels and

e wrist are a lion , snails , and sh ep .

e e H V Th se glov s were given by King enry III . to Sir Anthony P f on Denny , Knight , rivy Councillor and riend , and later an

of the e are fi e of executor King . Th y ne sp cimens English work ;

e E . e e e 1 e . th ir total length is 5 inch s Sir dward Denny , Bart , pr s nt d

e e V A th m to the nation , and th y are now in the ictoria and lbert

e Museum , South K nsington . 16 GLOVES AND SHOES

GLOV ES OF H ENRY V I I I

S ee Fron tisp iece

of the most b eau tiﬁi l pair of gloves probably in exist f e fi of ence, and ortunat ly in a ne state preservation . They , e of ff are mad thin bu leather , light in colour, and measure

1 25 inches in length . f f The gauntlets are divided into eight panels , our in ront and f e our at back , the material being white satin embroider d with ﬂowers

f - e s of are of and oliage in esthetic colour d silk , the tems which gold

E e e S e thread . ach panel is dg d with pangled gold lace and lin d with rose— coloured silk ; a gusset is inserted between each panel to give

ru cﬁiu of e — e strength to the upper part ; a g ros coloured silk , edg d

f e with gold lace , divides the glove rom the gauntl t at the wrist . H V The gloves are reputed to have belonged to enry III . , and f the are of so rich a character as to justi y statement .

of A f E s r They are the property l red de la Fontaine , q .

W E E T L E ROY S GLOVES AND SHOES 17

PLATE IX HAWK ING GLOV E OF H ENRY VI I I

FROM A DRAWING BY THE AUTHOR

N interesting and authenticated hawking glove of Henry VIII .

e of ff e e e It is mad stout bu l ath r , with a short gauntl t curiously ornamented with circular discs worked in dull red

e e e s e re e and greenish blue thr ad , int rmix d with ilv r wi ; a small r

of the e e the disc , sam colours , is plac d at the lower part of little finger ; while a singular pattern is traced with thread on the palm of ff fi the hand . The cu is lined some 2; inches up with a ne f canvas , which is turned over and outwards to orm an edging, the glove itself being lined with stout white kid ; the back of the hand

of the 1 1 is quite plain ; the entire length glove is 2inches , and efe measures 5 inches across the wrist . The labels on the palm r r to “ the number and description in the original catalogue of the John

radescan t e T Collection , in which are grouped th se items

S tirrups H en ry the 8 his H aw kes- h oods Gloves

e e A O f . The glov is tr asured in the shmolean Museum , x ord PLATE X '

WH I TE GLOVES SIXTEENTH CENTURY

‘ PA f e e H V IR o gloves similar to thos attribut d to enry III .

e P e e fu e e e s (Colour d lat ) , having b auti lly mbroid red gauntl t

re e e e a e . cut into pan ls , which dg d with bespangl d lace The designs on the panels consist of ﬂowers and birds at the wrist o f the left- hand glove is a richly laced ru coiug ; unfortunately this

- e e has disappeared from the right hand glov . They are attribut d

of E e e e to the reign Queen lizabeth , and w r at one tim in the

e Isham Coll ction .

V A e e . ictoria and lb rt Mus um , South Kensington

GLOVES AND SHOES 19

PLATE XI

A LADY ’ S GLOVE

SIXTEENTH CENTURY

’ LA — of ff DY S right hand glove light bu kid leather . The total length from the tip of the middle ﬁnger to the bottom

of the 1 fi e e gauntlet is 7 inches , the middle nger m asur s 3 inches ; the seams are herringbone stitched with pale salmon

e fr of the colour d silk , the narrow inge at the side and bottom

e e of the e c gauntl t b ing same mat rial and olour .

O the o f the n back hand is embroidered , in silver wire , a . dragon with legs and beak of green silk ; the monster has originally been

o f e supported by a ﬂoral design , which the great r part has dis

e e f of — e n appear d . Thr e small tu ts salmon colour d silk are ra ged f the e across the knuckles , a ourth being placed , quite alone , at low r

of e A the corner the gauntl t . [ similar glove was exhibited at Stuart

e 1 88 N e Coll ction in 9 ( o . in the Catalogue) , and was d scribed as having belonged to Charles L% ’ The owner of this lady s glove states that it belonged to his great

e e - f a e of 86 aunt , who died som tw nty our years ago at the g , that it came to her through a friend who had it as a gift from a knight of e Windsor , and that it had always been regarded as having b longed

E e to Queen lizab th .

of H E s r. The property John allam , q 20 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XII

LADY SHE RINGTO N’ S GLOVES

LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY

PA of e IR white l ather gloves , the gauntlets embroidered with silver and silk of esthetic colouring ; the fringe is of

silver , and the lining is a pale pink silk . Total length of of f 1 1 from tip middle ﬁnger to point the ringe ; inches . These

l e e L of L g oves are reputed to have b long d to ady Sherington , aycock A e A bb y , in Wiltshire . Sir William Sherington purchased the bbey 1 H had in and in 5 74. his brother Sir enry , who succeeded to

the state E e , entertained Queen lizabeth here . There are monuments

‘ ‘ f L of l to the amily in aycock Church . Date gloves , ate sixteenth

century .

of . The property Mrs . B . Morrell

GLOVES AND SHOES 21

PLATE XIII

M ITTENS SIXTEENTH CENTURY

PA of fi e of IR mittens , or ngerless glov s , crimson velvet ,

e embroidered on the backs , and in a lesser d gree on the

palms , with a conventional design in gold thread . The

t - hands and humbs are edged with gold thread cord . The gauntlets , covered with white satin , are cut into panels at the bottom and embroidered with flowers in various coloured silks together with

s em1c1rcu lar e conventional leaves , and pendent d signs in gold and l si ver thread and spangles , and tiny beads are sprinkled about the ground . 1 6 The length of the gloves is inches , and their date late six teen th E century . They were given by Queen lizabeth to her maid of d mb e E K M E cu t. honour , argaret g , wife of Sir dward Denny , ,

Baronet . P E resented by Sir dward Denny , Bart . , to the South Kensington

Museum . 22 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XIV Q U EEN ELIZ AB ET H ’ S GLOV ES AT OX FORD

N e f of xceptionally beauti ul pair white kid gloves , with long gauntlets richly embroidered with gold gimp wire and terminated with a gold fringe two inches deep ; the em

of the broidery is continued round the base thumbs , but the stitching of fi — e of e the nger seams is quit plain . The total length the glov s , f 1 1 6 . including the ringe , is , inches

e e e are of the are Th s glov s excellent examples period , and in

fe e e e e e E almost per ct pr s rvation . They w r present d to Queen lizabeth

she U f H e when visited the niversity , and were le t by er Maj sty at O f x ord .

e e the L Till r c ntly they were treasured in Bodleian ibrary, but are

A e O f the . now among the relics in shmol an Museum, x ord

GLOVES AND SHOES 23

PLATE XV

AN ELIZ AB ET HAN GLOV E

FROM A DRAW ING BY TH E AUTHOR

ONG the e e the New G e M interesting r lics xhibited at all ry ,

L the of 1 0 2 of e o f ondon , in early part 9 , was a pair glov s

— e e e rich brown colour d l ath r , measuring in length some

1 2 e e e inch s , which w re described as having belonged to Que n

E e lizab th . A singular kind of ornamentation is obtained by cutting out parts of the leather and inserting under the holes so made a grey

e e of the e fi e o ff colour d silk backing , the dges patt rn being nish d

l he fi e e . T with h rringbone stitching in y llow si k con ning bands ,

of the le of f e or loops , at the openings gaunt ts are grey silk , the ring being composed of a reddish silk material .

The gloves are in rather a worn and dilapidated condition .

f H E s r o l . The property William enry Tay or , q PLATE XVI LORD DARNL EY S CU FF

FROM A DRAWING BY THE AUTHOR

ff f cu , or gauntlet, rom a glove , said to have been worked

e of L by Mary , Qu en Scots , and worn by ord Darnley 1 l in 5 5 5 . The designs are in various co oured silks and

f fi e ff e o o . silver thr ad , and the edges the gauntlet are nish d with lace f E They were No . 3 4 9 in the Catalogue o the xhibition of Stuart

e N G L 1 88 R lics at the ew allery , ondon , in 9 , and are the property of T rei lan d E s r h . W . Murray p , q

PL A TE X VI I GLOVES AND SHOES 25

PLATE XVII GLOV E OF MARY QU EEN OF SCOTS

VE u for the ft u n RY beautif l glove le hand , worn by the

f e ee o f f her e e ortunat Qu n Scots on the morning o x cution . .

of ff- e e e It is made a light , cool , bu colour d l ath r ; the elaborate embroidery on the gauntlet is of silver wire gimp and silk of various colours ; the roses are of pale and dark blue and two

of e the f e ee of e shades v ry pale crimson ; oliag , or tr s , is two shad s of e e fi esth tic gre n ; a bird in ﬂight , with a long tail , gures con spicu ou sly in the design ; the whole of the embroidered pattern is

of repeated on the other side of the gauntlet . That part the glove f ff orming the cu is lined with bright crimson satin , a narrow band

of f n to which is turned outwards , and orms a bi ding on which is sewn the gold lace ; to the points of this are fastened groups of

e e of small pendant silver spangl s . The op ning at the side the

of gauntlet is connected by two broad bands crimson silk , now

f e e e e e much ad d , each being d corated at the dg s with silv r lace . The length of the glove is 1 4 1 inch es from the tip of the middle

an d finger to the extreme point of the lace spangles .

e e The glove certainly belongs to the p riod to which it is assign d , and it has been treasured through many gen eratl on s by the Dayrell

he f t a e e of . amily , as verit bl glov Mary Stuart f el e e The ollowing letter proves conclusiv y that Marmaduk Dayr ll ,

es execu tIon . or Darell , was pr ent at the

To a mos f e D rell Fa mi o H in x ton C . o the ay iy f , Copy original

’ letter found among His Maj esty s Records in the Tower of London

E 26 GLOVES AND SHOES

e f L A D e . . ( . . and r ceived by Mr Dayr ll rom Mr ysons , and ff e now in the Sa ron Walden Museum , with a glove said to hav been given to Marmaduke Dayrell by the Queen at the time of her execution

The on en en e of t s messen e w the n ew es w ch . s e o e c v i c hi g r , ith thi plac d th resen tl e e e o ccasion eth me to o e ou w th t e s fe n e I dou b te p y y ld tr ubl y h i w ly s . n ot b u t w th ou sw e as in the con tries hereab ou tes t e e e eene of e y a ll , h r bath b lat son dr e mo s e con cern in e the Sco : een e son e e e w ch as y ru r brut d g Qu pri r h r ; all , t e e en e t e o u n trew e so n ow t is most t e t she b e en e h y hav b hi h rt y ru , hat ath dur d that fatall stroke this daie that w ill ex cuse her from bein ge accessarye to any like m e ma en hen cefor h att rs that y happ t e . Betw een e X an d X I of the cl ock e this presen t Thu rsdaie she w as beheaded in the H of t s C st e t e e e n e esen at t as Comm ss on e s on the all hi a l h r b i g pr t y i i r , ly E e of Shrew sb u r e an d the E e of Ken t ow e ot e E es w e o n ed w th arl g arl , f r h r arl j y them in the Commissi on b u t came n ot ; The Sherive of thi s Shire Sr R ich Kn i htl e S E dw arde M on e w th dw rs ot e G en emen of oo accom te g y , r tagu , h r tl g d p , w er so e e at the E x e on Tou chin e the m n n e of d e a al h r cuti . g a r yt all u order w s m ost carefully observed in yt she h erself en dured yt as w ee mu st all tru ely saie w e e e e W ittn es ses w e o e an d shew e of ma n an imit e e that r y ith gr at c urag , g y , alb it in s ome o e es e s she en e n ot so w e as t to b e e The o e for th r r p ct d d ll y w i sh d . rd r her n e % t n ot et e e m n e u on b u t w ilb e e shortl e as so for fu ral , y y d t r i d pp ; v ry y , al her eo e w ho w ee think e s b e safel e on e to t e n t e o n es p pl , ( ) hal y c duct d h ir a iv c u tri . “ s e ou b rieﬂie t w ch w ilb e n o dou b te e shortlie e o e Thu hav y , hat v ry r p rt d In the me n e t me b e eeche u e i te unto you more at large . a y I s yo acc pte n good p s sm shew e of m du etifu ll rememb rau n ce of ou An d so w th m thi all y y . y

' m e co en dac n I e me % e t e hu bl m o s leave you to th rciful p t c ion of the Almighti . ’ ff e in a e i th of ﬂ e ru ar e 6 ffrom ath r i C s e vi b I 8 . g a tl j y , 5 Yor poore kinsman to commau n de Mar : Darell

To the w oorshi le M W illm e E s e his o se Littlecott. right pp r . Dar ll quir hat h u at

For and against the probability of the glove having actually ’ formed a part of the Queen s dress on the fatal morning w e have the ’ d e e e Fro u de s H isto E n la n . 2 . . stat m nt mad in ry of g , p 3 3 , vol xii , that the Queen wore a rob e of black satin : her jacket w as o f

' black satin m e e Af e also looped and slashed and tri med with v lv t . t r GLOVES AND SHOES 27

fi e her e . The prayers wer nished , she ros and prepared two e e ff e e fu x cutioners o er d to assist her, but w re re sed with Truly , ’ ‘ L the E my ords , turning with a smile to arls standing near , I never ’ had such grooms waiting on me before % The black robe was

f rims n v elv et e o c o . n xt removed , below it was a petticoat The black

f e the w as of cr imson sa tin jacket ollowed , and und r jacket a body .

O of e her of ne her ladi s handed a pair crimson sleeves , with which she hastily covered her arms ; and thus she stood on the black

ff the fi e her — f m sca old with black gur s all around , blood red ro head

f the ee e e to oot . May it not be assumed that Qu n was clad ntir ly

e the % A if e the in black on ntering hall nd such w re case , would

b e e e e e e she wearing light l ath r gloves , mbroid r d with gay colours

e % A e : O e ee e and silver lac gain , Froud says rd rs had b n giv n

ep' e tlvin she e e that ry g which had worn should be immediately d stroy d , that no relic should be carried o ff to work imaginary miracles

P f— e e of st oic/3 toe beads , aternoster , handkerchie ach articl dress ’ ’ ’ olooa 6a a tou cnea the the the ff , with cloth on block and on sca old , ” fi the e e e of the If was burnt in the hall re in pr s nc crowd . this

the o f glove was worn on morning the execution , it may have e e e ée ore scaped with oth r matt rs , which were probably removed f she

e the e ef e e the kn lt at block , and th r or would be untouch d by blood .

f the lin in of e of cr imson sa tin It is a curious act that g the gauntl t is ,

— e e I P on e the same blood red colour m ntion d by Froude ossibly , if of e e e e of not both , the ex cution rs may have been gentl m n

if n ot e P A if e position , and so , why a Dayr ll nd this were the cas ,

e of fee what more lik ly than that in place the usual money , which

e e e the e would have be n giv n to a common ex cutioner , Que n may

o r fee have given her glove as a last present , being aware that it was

o her e a gentleman f position who was acting as execution r . The drawing from which the photograph is taken was made f the the rom relic by author , and an outline drawing, together Toe eli u a 1 88 R g ry in 2 . Sinc e the drawing was made the glove has been reversed in its

the of . case in museum , and now displays the back the hand ’ In Fairholt s Costu me in E ngla n d a small illustration of this

1 e glove is given (p . 5 but it is inaccurate in nearly every d tail .

the F of The glove was lent by late Colonel rancis Dayrell ,

e the ff Camps , in Cambridgeshir , and is still in Sa ron Walden

Museum .

GLOVES AND SHOES 29

PLATE XVIII

S HAKES PEARE ’ S GLOV ES

PAIR of grey buckskin gloves with gold thread embroidery the gauntlets have a gold fringe sewn on to an edging o f

of pale pink silk . The gloves measure a total length

1 of 4. inches , the bottom the gauntlets being 7 inches across , while at the wrists they are inches .

e e of H e of Th s precious relics are the property Dr . orac Furness , f P f Walling ord , ennsylvania , who gives the ollowing very interesting letters relating to their history

F om o n W to G ( r J h ard David arrick .)

LE OM INST E R, “ M a s t 1 6 1 . y 3 , 7 9

DEA SI — O n e n the n ew s e s I ﬁn d ou are e n G n R R, r adi g pap r , y pr pari g a ra d ee to b e e at S o - on - A on to the memo of the mmo Jubil , k pt tratf rd up v , ry i rtal S es e e I e sen ou of o es w e o en o e e hi hak p ar . hav t y a pair gl v hich hav ft c v r d s n s t e w e e m e me esen es en n of the m w en ha d ; h y r ad a pr t by a d c da t fa ily , h m se an d Com n w en o e e e om W w in the e 1 6 to er y lf pa y t v r th r fr ar ick , y ar 74 , p o m the of Otbello an d en eﬁ for e n his mon men in the G e t f r play , a b t, r pairi g u t r a C w w e t s the w o e of the e e ts e n ex en e on t hurch , hich did gra i , h l r c ip b i g p d d hat on e The Pe son w ho e t em to me W m es e e n me . S al r gav h , illia hak p ar by a , ss e me his t e o en e e to him t e w e e the en t o es a ur d fa h r had ft d clar d , h y r id ical gl v ‘ of ou r e oe an d w en he e e e t em to me s S t ese are the gr at p t ; h d liv r d h , aid , ir , h on o e t em n s to ou r mo s e on m e ossesse an d so ly pr p rty hat r ai fa u r lati ; y fath r p d, ld , the es te he e e n him an d t ese are the e om ense I can m e ou ta l ft b hi d , h all r c p ak y ’ ’ for t s n s e o m n e The on o w as z e t e e old an d to hi ight p rf r a c . d r a gla i r by rad , v ry , the es of m memo e in the s ee e n om the Tow n H ow n to b t y ry , liv d tr t l adi g fr all d the e m om n to in t o ee e s e he w as . O n S o t riv r y c i g play tra f rd ab ut hr y ar aft r, ’ e . The t e of him an d ou r oet w e e o e s en The en e on d ad fa h r p r br th r childr . v rati I e to the memo of ou r e t o an d e m es me w s to e b ar ry gr at au h r play r , ak i h hav 3 0 GLOVES AND SHOES

th ese relics preserved to his immortal memory ; an d I am led to thin k that I n n o e os t em for t t ose in the n s of an e son so o e as ca t d p it h , ha purp , ha d y p r pr p r ou r mo n der R oscius . I am SI r ,

Yo most m e se n t ur hu bl rva ,

“ OH N W A D M J R . To D G . ( ) r . avid arrick

O the e of G e n d ath arrick the gloves pass d to his widow, who “ e 1 82 2 e f n e e di d in , whose will contain d the ollowi g b qu st I give ’

. of e to Mrs Siddons a pair gloves which w re Shakespeare s , and were

of f e presented by one his amily to my late d ar husband , during the ” f — - A G fo r Jubilee at Strat ord upon von . (Mrs . arrick has evidently

r a gotten that John Ward gave them to he husb nd . )

. r e G e he . rs Siddons bequ athed them to daught r , Mrs eorge

e e e e e Comb , by whom they w r giv n to Mrs . K mble , and by this ever e o d ar and gracious lady to their present possess r .

F F n ess . A . Kem e o H o e . t Dr ( bl . rac ur )

1 a nuar 1 8 . 7 j y, 74 m M Y D EA R H ORA CE (in spite of your literary labours an d h on ours you ust be s uch to m e — The w o s of R e s is n ot the m os ex e o m of m n ) , r hip lic t alt d f r hu a e o on the me n es men t e e has e on e w om w e o e d v ti , but a t gar t hat v r but clipp d h l v an d e e e e omes in s ome me s e e an d en e e to u s for his s e an d s o r v r b c a ur d ar v rabl ak , ’ As w e may b e p ermitted to k eep Shakesp eare s gloves w ith affecti on ate regard . ’ t es e w e e in G arrick o rs G to m A n t e s C e on an d en M . h r ll cti , giv by arrick y u t, h y ma b e en n e an d I offe t em to ou as to en of the rea t e s e h as y g ui , r h y a k g pl a ur it e e given me to see your n ame up on the American Vari orum E dition of Shakesp ar . ‘ ’ m e Amon g my books an d pap ers I thi n k I have a few remai n s of J oh n K e bl You w an d M on in o n s . rs. Sidd s w hich I s hall feel happy in placin g y ur ha d ill en valu e them for your ow n sake an d perhaps a little for that of your old fri d .

“ F A K EM BLE . . .

P - m e Ce . S. The o es are in the x i M rs G eo e Co gl v b o n w hich . rg b ( cilia Siddon s) gave them to me

are A e of . H The gloves now in m rica , in the possession Dr orace H oward Furness . ‘ PL A TE 1X

GLOVES AND SHOES 3 1

PLATE XIX GLOV ES OF KING JAM ES I

H E E e e I of S glov s , attribut d to James . , are a darkish brown

e e e f the ti of the l ath r , m asuring rom p middle ﬁnger to the edge of the lac e on the gauntlet inches ; the gauntlets

the e e e ﬁn e are open at sid som 3 inch s , and are edged with gold

e e e e e e the twist d lac , which is continu d ntir ly round the gauntl t ; e e o f mbroid ry is silk and gold and silver thread , a conspicuous

e the al emblem b ing Scottish thistle, in partly natur colours , the

e e e e e colouring gen rally b ing what may be d scrib d as sthetic .

The of the e red insides gauntl ts are lined with silk . From the

f f the e of the beauti ul embroidered work , and rom whol character

e b e e e e glov s , they may certainly suppos d to hav b longed to a royal

e p rsonage .

e e careﬁi ll Th y are in exc llent preservation , and are y treasured by

e e A fr E s r th ir own r , l ed de la Fontaine, q . PLATE XX

% EARLY S EV ENTE ENT H -C ENTU RY GLOV ES

N al of unusu and singular pair gloves of leather , the back s eams of the ﬁngers being stitched with gold thread ; the

‘ gauntlets are very deep and are covered with alternate

of red — - of bands satin and gold thread ribbon lace , with an edging

ne f e n . silver ti s l , and ring d with spa gled gold thread

e of 1 e The total l ngth the gloves is 7 inch s . King James I .

f e e e e E . gave th se gauntlet d glov s to Sir dward Denny , Kt (a t rwards

E of N ff of H the arl orwich) , who , as Sheri ertfordshire, received L King during his progress from Scotland to ondon .

P E . resented by Sir dward Denny , Bart , to the South Kensington

Museum .

GLOVES AND SHOES 3

PLATE XXI

GLOV ES OF KI NG C HARLES I

HE ﬁ' equ en t visits of King Charles to the mansion of Sir Thomas Milward (whom His Majesty knighted on one

of E U these occasions) at aton Dovedale, near ttoxeter ,

e e o o f e justiﬁ s the ass rti n that the two pairs glov s , given on this

follow m e e and the g plat , belong d to King Charles , and that they

f E e e of were le t by him at aton Dov dal on one or other his visits .

e of ff e Th y are bu leather , lined with white kid , the gauntlets b ing embroidered in a simple manner with gold braid and having a rather

ee e of e e d p dging spangled gold lace , the spangl s themselv s being

of n the also gold , which is very unusual . The conﬁni g loops at

of of openings at the sides the gauntlet are ribbed silk , the colour being royal purple ; the same coloured silk forms the lining for 2 e i about 5 inch s inside the gauntlets , and turn ng outwards and over gives the foundation on which is sewn the gold lace edging ; the

e of the s ams ﬁngers and thumbs are also outlined with gold braid .

e of e 1 1 e a Van - The total l ngth the glov s s 4 inch s . There is Dyck ish

the ef e e look about these gloves , which assists beli that th y b longed

the Milw ards e to the martyr King . Treasured with the gloves hav

- of f preserved an old water colour drawing the amily mansion , on

of f the back which is written , in a bold hand , the ollowing The ruins of Eton Dovedale near Uttoxeter in the County of Derby the residence of Sir Thomas Milward who there entertained King

H e Charles in the year . is eld st son married Sarah

e of Levin e E s r of Shee e of L Daught r g q . , p y in the Coy eicester , 3 4 GLOVES AND SHOES

he on e The R evn d by whom had only son , . Thos . Milward ,

E H e e e educated at ton . disinherited his son and to his t rnal

f . disgrace le t this ﬁne estate to his brother Wm Milward , an

A U e for 0c son the ttorney in ttox ter , who sold it an g and cheated ” Law ﬁi l H of e eir it . The watermark date on the pap r on which

e 1 ese e e e e e this is writt n is 79 4 . Th int r sting glov s hav quit recently pas sed out of the keeping of the Milward family into the collection o f the A uthor .

PL 4 TE A’ A’ l /

3 6 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XXIII GLOV E OF KI NG C HARLES I ANY relics connected with the White King are to be found

e e the in privat coll ctions , and probably most interesting of such relics are those used by His Maj esty on the day

f the e e o . xecution The glove h re illustrated , by a drawing by the A e ff uthor , is said to have been giv n to an attendant on the sca old ,

f e e e the t . o of he by the King It is whit l ath r , seams ﬁngers are

e e e e stitched with silv r thr ad , and tiny silv r spangles are group d on the knuckles ; the embroidery on the gauntlet and the lace on the

e of al e f the of bottom dge are also silver . The tot l ngth rom tip the

fi of 1 middle nger to the point the lace is 3 inches .

e e N This glov was xhibited ( o . 3 74 in the Catalogue) at the

E of e the New G L 1 88 xhibition Stuart R lics at allery , ondon , in 9 ,

e V t f E s r by its own r, . F . Bennett S an ord , q .

‘ C an h Huds m P rk c ,

ULATING

GLOVES AND SHOES 3 7

PLATE XXIV

No . 1

GLOV E OF KI NG C HARLES I I

NE of of s ff e e i e e e a pair tout bu l ath r rid ng glov s , ntir ly

e e e the without ornamentation . Th y were xhibit d at Stuart

e the New G e 1 88 N the Coll ction at all ry in 9 ( o . 4 7 7 in “ e e e e : P e e e E L e Catalogu ) , and w r thus d scribed r s nt d to dmund ov l ,

- e - f e of the e e . great gr at grand ath r pr sent owner , by King Charl s II

e Mr . Lov l had rais ed a troop of horse for the s ervice and restoration of the ee e of men e the King , who , m ting him at the h ad his , dr w

e f L e glov s rom his hands and gave them to Mr . ovel as a m mento .

e o f S eid The prop rty Mrs . p .

No . 2.

A GLOV E SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

GLOVE of e of e e e em unusual shape , mad gr y l ath r , and broidered on the back of the hand with a ﬂoral design

The e e e in dull green and red silks . ﬁng rs and out r sid of e e f the glove are herringbone stitch d . The total measur ment rom

ﬁn er-t g ips to gauntlet is inches .

The e e I glov is attributed to King Charl s . , and was shown

e s N G e L 1 88 among the Stuart r lic at the ew all ry , ondon , in 9 , by

e the poss ssor , Captain Still . 3 8 GLOVES AND SHOES

No . 3 .

A GLOV E SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

PALE ff e e bu leather glove , poorly embroid r d with silver

e k e The e thr ad , pin , y llow, and white silk . glov is in 86 the e e N . rath r a dilapidat d condition . It was o 3 in

e of the New G E 1 88 Catalogu allery xhibition in 9 , and was lent by

E s r David Seton , q .

GLOVES AND SHOES 3 9

PLATE XXV

TH E NAS E BY GLOV ES

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

’ PA the of of RT from extreme elegance this pair lady s gloves , I e there s attach d to them an historic and pathetic interest . Till within a few years ago they were treasured by a lady E named Clarence , who died at versden , in Cambridgeshire . This

of N A lady was a native aseby , and was connected with the shby

f of The e are b e e amily that place . glov s lieved to have belong d to a Royalist lady who was at Naseby with the Cavalier army when the

f fe o f e e 1 atal de at King Charles took plac (Jun 4 th , and that

the e e w m in hurri d ﬂight which ensued these glov s , together ith any

e s of ft . oth r belongings the Royali ts , were le behind The gloves ,

al of — ff which are very sm l , are made thin light coloured bu leather , which is a pure white on the inside ; the gauntlets are of maroon

f e silk cut into panels , three in ront and thre at the back , and

e delicately embroidered with gold cord and dged with gold lace ,

of 1 2 with a lining blue silk ; their total length is inches , and they are in excellent preservation .

the f he A In collection o t uthor . 4 0 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATES XXVI AND XXVII

GLOV ES O F OLIV ER C ROMWELL

HIGHLY interesting and well — authenticated pair of gloves

e P e which belong d to the rotector . Th ir sturdy and workaday appearance at once suggests the character of

e f e e of th ir ormer owner . Th y are mad stout darkish grey leather , with plain stitching o f the ﬁnger seams and on the back of the hands ; the gauntlets are wide and have a heavy thick fringe of

the of twisted brown silk about 5 inches long , total length the

e f the of the e e of glov s being , rom tip middl ﬁng r to the end

1 f 1 e n e . the ringe , 7 inch s the breadth across the k uckles is 4 } inch s f They are in excellent preservation , owing probably to the act that till quite within what may be called recent times they have been ’ ll f e careﬁi y treasured by some member of Cromwell s amily . Th y

of 1 8 e came into the possession the writer in 77 , having be n

e of e f purchased in Sept mber that y ar rom Mr . Charles Martin , of e the of - Fordham , Cambridgeshire , who di d at age ninety two .

. e ft f Mr Martin acquired th m as a gi rom an old lady , a native (like f of himsel ) Wicken , a village near Fordham , whose mother had been at one time housekeeper either at the house of the Cromwells

of A or with William Russell , Fordham bbey , near Wicken , the

- in - of H o e H son law enry Cr mw ll . It may be mentioned that enry

of O e E e of Cromwell , a son liv r , married lizab th , daughter Sir Francis

e of far f Russ ll , Chippenham (not rom Wicken) , and occupied a

4 2 GLOVES AND SHOES

P of e e the rotector . It is a matter history that s veral gen rations of the f e Cromwell amily married , liv d , died , and were buried in the Wicken district . of the A In the collection uthor .

4 4 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XXIX

GLOVES OF C HARLES I I

MME DIATE LY after the crushing defeat of the Royalists at

e e rd 1 6 1 Worcest r , on S ptember 3 , 5 , the young King escaped

from the city with a few followers ; but previous - to starting

H e e is Maj sty made som hurried changes in his costume , and ,

e the according to tradition , this was done in a house situat d at

of N e the m e A corner ew Str et and corn ark t . Mr . llan Fea , in

e Toe Fli /it o tne Kin his admirable book entitl d g f g, says Charles had barely time to effect his escape by a back door as Corbett (a Parliamentary officer) entered by the front ; and the story is

f e strengthened by the act that the King , in detailing his adv ntures

ee — e the f al to the Qu n moth r and Court , upon his sa e arriv at the

L hé o f ouvre , described how slipped out Worcester , and how d ” e the f an f . near he was taken th re , ﬁrst in ort a ter in his chamber ’ Some of the King s apparel was long treasured in a house in the ’ of W hiteladies the of e parish , within city Worcest r , the gloves here

e e es e illustrat d being among the articles preserv d . The glov are mad of the e of the e thin brown leather , s ams ﬁngers and thumb b ing

e - w e e e the of covered with silv r ir thr ad , t rminating on back the f of hand considerably beyond the knuckles , thus giving a alse idea the e of the l are e l ngth ﬁngers . The gaunt ets also trimm d with

s e s e e e e silver titching ; and whit pangl d silv r lac , s wn on to a band o f al e e e p blu silk , gives a ﬁnish to the whol . The gauntlets are

At the W hit l di s I r n am e a e n the T thln are the emal n s of a n u n n er hen ce the e. , y g, y, GLOVES AND SHOES 4 5 split open some 5 inches at the sides , and are retained in position n of by broad ba ds blue ribbed silk . The total length of the gloves , m from the tip of the iddle ﬁnger to the point of the lace , is 1 4 inches .

of — E s r In the possession Clark Kennedy , q . 4 6 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XXX PAI R O F WH ITE GLOVES SIXTEENTH CENTURY

PA of e e the IR stout white leather glov s , apparently onc

of of e e e e property a person consid rabl statur , to judg

The e e r from their size . gauntl ts are nic ly emb oidered

of e o f the e with metallic thread gold and silv r , parts work b ing

e of red e e raised by m ans a wool padding . Till recently th s gloves

e he e of f e wer in t poss ssion a amily in Warwickshire . Th y are now

e of L E s r R .A. in the coll ction Seymour ucas , q . ,

4 8 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XXXII

A S PANI S H GLOV E SIXTEENTH CENTURY

VE f RY beauti ul glove , richly and thickly embroidered on

the gauntlet with ﬂowers , birds , a cornucopia, a ﬁgure, etc . ,

' and at the opening at the side are three elegant tassels . The date of this exquisite piece of work is of the latter part of the

e f of sixt enth century , and was ormerly the property Monsieur Spitzer . u e It is now in the So th Kensington Mus um .

GLOVES AND SHOES 4 9

PLATE XXXIII

LADY ’ S GLOV ES LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY

' H of of or IS pair gloves , elab ate and rich character , were

of of ual are evidently once the property a lady q ity . They

of - ff of pale warm coloured bu leather . The stitching the

of seams of the thumbs and ﬁngers , green silk , is very ﬁne , terminating below the knuckles in a p omted pattern ; while a larger and more

e of the e elaborat d pattern occurs on the palm hand . The gauntl ts ,

are the of — e which sewn on to gloves , are dark claret colour d silk , richly embroidered with gold and silver gimp and gold cord , and

r ﬁi s l i A o e . p y spangled w th silver discs design , resembling the ’ P of e fe e A rince Wal s athers , is thrice repeated on ach gauntlet .

of ff narrow band gold lace divides the cu from the glove . The

1 total length is 22inches .

the In the collection of Author . 5 0 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XXXIV

WH ITE GLOV ES EARLY SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

elegant and dainty pair of light buff leather gloves with u fu ff bea ti lly embroidered cu s , with roses and other designs an d Im in blue , green , pink g p , lined out with ﬁne silver c is cord ; the entral ﬁgure a bird worked in pink and yellow silk ,

of ff the same pattern being repeated on both back and front the cu s .

A of e ff lining pink silk extends some 3 inches insid the cu , which

I o ff fr e e of the s ﬁnished with a yellow silk ing . The total l ngth

1 e gloves is 3 inch s .

of A In the collection the uthor .

5 2 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XXXVI

A PAI R O F ENGL ISH GLOVES SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

PA of o e v of E a e IR neatly embr id red glo es , nglish m k and

of e e e e e e s rvic abl appearanc , and quit unlike thos made expressly for the purpose of presentation and therefore of

e ee e e a richer character . Their date is sev nt nth c ntury ; th y came

f are now e rom the Isham Collection , and in the South K nsington u M seum .

GLOVES AND SHOES 5 3

PLATE XXXVII PA I R OF BROWN GLOV ES SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

PA of m of IR brown leather gloves , plainly stitched at the sea s

The ff e e thumb and ﬁngers . cu richly ornam nt d with gold

of e e e and silver wire extrem ﬁn n ss , twisted round what

e e o f appears to be ﬂat pi c s quill and sewn into the required position , each part of the pattern being framed with gold cord ; small gold spangles are dotted about in every available space a narrow band of l f . red silk , carrying a silver ringe , terminates the whole The tota

of 1 6 00 . length the gloves is 1 2 % inches . Date about

e of the In the coll ction Author . 5 4 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XXXVI I I

No . 1

A GLOV E SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

“

E - HAN e e o f e - f FT D glov , mad a thick , warm , gr y coloured elt or

ea e The e m of e stout l th r . s a s ﬁng rs and thumb are stitched

e the e m with silv r , and gauntl t , which is ade in two parts , is

e e e e i : f e the richly mbroid r d with gold and silv r g mp un ortunat ly , lace or fringe edging has disappeared from . the gauntlet ; the total

I S 1 i e length 4. nch s .

o L E s r R . A. f . In the collection Seymour ucas , q ,

No . 2

TH E PA STON HALL GLOV E

N e e of the e of int r sting glove , probably middl the seventeenth

of e e e e century , brown l ath r , n atly mbroidered with silver

e f few e s thr ad . This glove was ound a y ars ince in Paston

H N f e the f of all , or olk , and was pr sented by wi e the present owner f o . N . the hall , Mrs John Mack , to the Castle Museum , orwich The glove gains some additional interest from the fact that it may have

e of e f e fa belonged to a m mber that anci nt amily , mad so mous by the

Pa st a ll a e s 1 8 — 8 on H P r e . p , published by Sir John F rm , 7 7 9

GLOVES AND SHOES 5 5

No . 3

LADY ’ S GLOV E SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

of faw mcolou red elegant glove for the right hand , rich

of fi o f the e is leather very ne quality . The stitching s ams

the e plain ; gauntlet is ornamented in a v ry unusual manner ,

o r of e with grey and yellow loops bows mohair tap , or ribbon inter m e e - f of the o f the ix d with gold and silver thr ads , one hal back hand and knuckles being similarly treated ; the lower part of the

ff e ff e o f cu insid is sti ened with three lay rs paper , and is lined with

e the e of the e I I e ribbed y llow silk ; entire l ngth glov is inch s .

R A. o f e L s E s r . In the collection S ymour uca , q . , 5 6 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XXXIX PA I R OF S H ORT GLOV ES LATE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

PAIR of rather an unusual style of gloves of warm russet

e are coloured leather and having v ry short gauntlets , which

embroidered entirely with metallic gold and silver thread , the pattern being raised by stu mp or padded work ; a rich bordering

f s the of The o silver lace surround bottom and sides the gauntlets .

‘ e 1 2 4 are of xtreme length is } inches , and they in the collection

- w E s r e P . W . Col lo right , q

5 8 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XLI

QU EEN ANNE ’ S GLOV ES OXFORD

o f - r of unusually elegant pair early eighteenth centu y gloves , ff 1 0 bu leather , in excellent preservation , measuring only inches in length the gauntlets are short and most elabor

“ ately ornamented with a perforated pattern in gold and crimson thread embroidery and small bugle beads of glass ; there are four

e of of small op nings in the gauntlets , over each which is a bow ribbon they are lined with puce silk . These gloves were left by Queen Anne at Christ Church when O f A 26th 1 0 2 A on a visit to x ord , ugust , 7 , and are now in the sh

olean m Museum .

PL X L I % GLOVES AND SHOES 5 9

PLATE XLII

A CAVALI E R’ S GLOVES SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

’ PA of f ff- e IR Cavalier s gloves , made of thin so t bu colour d

' e on the ff w ith silver leather , embroid red cu thread ; the gauntlets are lined and the edges are bound with crimson

the f e of e the e of silk ; ring is gold thread , and the op nings at sid s the gauntlets are connected by two bands o f buff silk ribbon edged } e 1 1 with lace . Their l ngth is 2 inches . They are described in the

of E E Museum Catalogue as being nglish make . arly seventeenth century .

E i of e A d nburgh Museum Sci nce and rt . 60 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XLIII PAI R OF GLOV ES SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

PA of e IR dark grey leather gloves , with short gauntl ts com e of n of posed ntirely a si gle band embroidered gold lace , enriched with spangles and edged at the top and bottom

f of The t of with a ringe gold . s itching the ﬁngers and on the back of the hands is quite plain .

of e the l The inside the gloves is white l ather , and gaunt ets are

ff of e lined with ribbed bu silk . The total length the glov s , including ff 1 2 . the cu s , is inches

o A t In the collection f the u hor .

PL A TE XL % %

6 2 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XLV

No . 1

COLONEL DUCKETT’S GLOV ES EIGHTEENTH CENTURY

PA of e I 1 1 IR large dark brown leather gloves , m asuring ;

e the are b em inch s inclusive gauntlets short , g only 3 inches

e of on e ie o f deep , composed entir ly broad p ce gold lace , and are lined with pal e yellow satin ; the backs o f the gloves are

e e e e e e slightly embroid r d with a ﬂoral d sign in gold wire thr ad , tog th r

- e e e e with some herring bone stitching of the same mat rial . Th s glov s

e e f the e have a clumsy appearanc , and mark the declin rom b auty and elegance of the Stuart and earlier periods ; they are said to have ’ ( e A e belonged to Colonel William Duckett , who served in b en nn s Army under the great Duke of Marlborough they were at one time e K en sm ton xhibited at the South g Museum , and are now in the A collection of the uthor .

No . 2 A PA I R O F LEATHER M ITTENS

PA of e e of l IR ﬁngerl ss glov s , or mittens , thick brown eather ;

e nl e of 1 e th y measure o y inch s in length , which ; inch s

f ff of orms a cu crimson morocco leather , the inside being lined some 2%inches up with stout leather ; the stitching throughout

of e e a e is a very coars character , and str ngth , rather th n styl or

e e of e leganc , seems to have been the object the maker th ir appear

e s e s f as e al e e anc ugg st a alconer th ir origin owner , and th ir dat is

e e the of A h . probably arly sixte nth century . In collection the ut or

GLOVES AND SHOES 63

PLATE XLVI PA I R OF M ITTENS EIG HTEENTH CENTURY

’ PA of e of e e IR lady s mittens , mad pal yellow wov n silk ,

of tl of he enriched with needlework pink thread . The p t

e e e thumb would protrud b yond its sheath , whil the backs only of the ﬁngers would b e covered by the pointed flaps the entire

of e the f length the mittens is inch s , and in o ﬁcial catalogue their date is given as of the eighteenth century .

E s o e dinburgh Mu eum f Scienc and Art .

H I STO RI CAL INT RODU CTI ON ON S H OES

0 many authors have at various times , written about the origin ,

e m of f - e f dev lop ent , and history oot gear , the chang s in ashion , m shape , and aterial , that it is almost impossible to add any f f e O e resh in ormation on this inter sting subject . n the oth r hand , the subject has not been equally illustrated , and to supply this want

e e e for the the present work , it is hop d , may som what compensat

all e e e past , particularly as the pictur s hav b en specially photographed ,

for m f of e or drawn , this volu e rom actual existing examples sho s of r various periods . To assist in rendering the illust ations more interesting a few introductory remarks may not b e altogether u l nacceptab e . The frequent mention of shoes in the Old Testament is remark

G m e e : able . od thus com and d Moses : Draw not nigh hith r put o ff e f o ff th f for e e thy sho s rom y eet , the place wh r on thou standest ” E the O off is holy ground ( xod . iii . To this day riental puts

e h o his shoes on ntering his ouse f prayer .

of the P In the books Deuteronomy , Joshua , Ruth , in salms , in

A of f e e e e o f mos , and in other parts the Bible r qu nt m ntion is mad

of of e e of f shoes . That sandals and shoes rushes , or l ath r , beauti ul

the E workmanship , were commonly worn by gyptians , we have ample

f e e E proo . Witness the spl ndid xamples in the gyptian department

in the British Museum . Taking a long stride from the more remote period to that of

e medimval of Roman , and lat r still to times , we ﬁnd the art shoe and 6 8 GLOVES AND SHOES sandal - making continues to play an important part in the civilised

e f e . H e e world ighly d corated , o t n gilded and j welled , the sho main tain ed e the e its place as an important it m in costumes of all class s .

The e ca /1 m of m e e nailed sho ( 5 ) the Ro an soldi r , the slash d and laced

of th e f - of e e sandal the aristocrat , and plain oot covering the pl b ian

e e o L have b en preserv d to us deep in the soil f ancient ondon . In

e ae m me e of e ft f e of m di val ti es the mb rs the gentl cra , or ollow rs

e e em e St . Crispin , were h ld in high ste , and their trade becam almost ’ ’ e ‘ m . A Ba /czz mm D e Caz/cw ez Ni r omm D e Caz/ an art littl book , g g

Vetem m e 1 66 Am e e e , publish d in 7 at st rdam , claim d gr at antiquity for the e G H h e f t e f . sho , almost associating od ims l with cra t

Baldu n u s e the of s e . was an eccl siastic , and son a hoemak r In many of the examples of early shoes which have been excavated in the streets of old London there is unmistakable evidence of skill

ee — W e and art having b n bestowed on the foot gear of our ancestors .

of L n ot fu o f f for e ﬁnd the citizen ondon was unmind l com ort , ven

ae es e in medi val days cork sol were in use , and in oth r cases a padding composed of small rushes or coarse grass has b een found inserted

e e the e e b twe n inn r and under soles of ancient sho s . During the Tudor and Stuart periods the wealthy classes had shoes made of

e e e e e v lvet , brocad , silk , and colour d leath r , embroid red with gold

f e e e . and rich silk , and not un requ ntly ornam nt d with jewels During

e of H e 1 — s s e o f the r ign nry III . ( 2 1 6 7 2) boot and hoes wer a sumptuous character to match the elegance of the costume of the

i t mes .

P e e ointed or broad toes , which wer so xtravagant in length and

e e of ee e e size as to r quir a padding moss or wool to k p th m in shap , were a prevailing fashion ; and in the reign of Queen Mary it became

P i the of e necessary , by Royal roclamat on , to prohibit toes sho s to

b e e 6 es the f s e e of worn wid r than inch ; a t nings wer various sorts ,

s e e of s es s e om tim s rich ribbon , ometim by co tly buckl s , and at others

70 GLOVES AND SHOES

e e of or more inches , and n cessitated the wear rs having the assistance either gallants or servants to aid them in keeping their balan ce while walking . Silver coverings for the high heels of shoes were not altogether u n

e of of known , though probably th y were rare occurrence ; a pair ,

f e f e e e e e e 1 8 Dutch manu acture , b auti ully ngrav d , w r xhibit d in 74. at a

of A ae e e meeting the Royal rch ological Institution , and wer d scribed

e u se the e of e e as having be n in in middl the eighte nth c ntury . Sho es do not seem to have played s o important a part in days

the e the of o ld e o r gone by as did glov , but custom throwing an sho a slipper is one of the uses foot - coverings have b een put to in olden

e e times , and which has held its plac to our own . There is a Fr nch

of n e of the story told an old woma , who , on seeing the carriag young

L s X ﬁom the e e King oui III . passing on its way church , wh r his

e e o ff her wedding had just tak n plac , took shoe , and , throwing it at ’ e e his coach , cri d out , Tis all I have , Your Maj sty , but may the ” of G A blessing od go with it . t ancient Jewish weddings it was customary during the ceremony for the husband to offer a ring to the fte er h . bride , and a r embracing her to give a shoe When high heels became unfashionable and ﬂat ones suddenly

e fe e e superseded them , ladi s complained that their et pain d th m

the e of e a exceedingly ; but with disappearanc high h els c me , it is

the e o f e said , mancipation woman , as the ﬂat heels enabled th m to move about with greater ease and to tak e their place in the doings of the world

of — f In these days machine made shoes , when the ashion seems to

of ee have gone back to the period high h ls , the loving care and

l f of the f e e a most artistic eeling individual cra tsman has d part d , but it cannot be denied that the elegant shape and smart app earance of the twentieth — century shoe has not suffered greatly from its modern

e o f m thod production .

GLOVES AND SHOES 71

PLATE I

M E DIZE VAL S H OES

AR IOUS broad - toed leather shoes of early sixteenth — century

e N e of dat . umb rs a similar character have been dug up

of L the city ondon .

Northampton Museum .

PLATE II

M E DITEVAL S H OES

lﬂ m 1

HE fr ont part and toe — piece of a slashed and pounced black

e the leath r shoe ; sole and heel are missing . Sixteenth

century .

PR% 2

LA - e e ﬁfteen th- - e e B CK l ath r century shoe , wanting heel pi c ,

e A having its original instep strap and buckl . similar A shoe appears on a monument in rdingly Church , Sussex ,

1 6 4 4 .

lﬂ a 3

’ H L - e C I D S black leather shoe , with pounced and slash d ﬁllet

— o r to e e e e . pi c . Sixteenth c ntury 72 GLOVES AND SHOES

N o . 4

GOO of ﬁfteenth- ai e D example the century pointed , or poul n

e the for the e sho , with strap tying over instep ; it m asures

1 1 e The e e ee } inch s . upper l ath r , at the h l , is inches

o f e e e The f o f high ; a part the sid has disapp ar d . ashion this shoe

e e e P is similar to the ste l sol r t given on late III .

No . 5

N example of the extravagant and singular fashion of the shoes

of f for f the ourteenth century . This shoe is the right oot ,

of o f the toe which takes an outward curve , the shoe the

ef f e the e e l t oot doing the sam , which would cause wear r to app ar as if splay - footed illustrations of shoes of this kind are to be found in illuminated manuscripts and on monumental brasses of the period .

No . 6

E - E H V WID TO D shoe of the time of enry III . It wants

the — e heel piec , and measures only 9 inches in length , while 6 f e the toe is inches across . This ashion also prevail d with

military in the steel soleret .

No . 7

o o OLE f a shoe f the fourteenth and ﬁfteenth centuries .

The above are from drawings made by the Author . G L uildhall Museum , ondon .

GLOVES AND SHOES 73

PLATE III

M E DIZE VAL AND OTH ER S H OES

NO . 1

OLE of a ﬁfteen th- century peaked shoe ; the point is destroyed ; 1 1 ; inches long .

No . 2

OA o f e e of H e V s th . e tie R D shoe tim nry III , with latch t to .

The back of the heel is missing .

No . 3

LEA HE ef f of T R clog , for the l t oot , composed several thicknesses of leather at the toe and waist are the remains

o of straps f r attaching the clog to the foot . c of A the colle tion the uthor .

No . 4

FIFTEENTH — CENTURY black— leather peaked shoe (pou

e ai e f ﬁelds L The M o or . lain ) , s d to hav been ound in , ondon

f e o f e astening app ars to have been by means a strap or latch t ,

of part which is missing, across the instep ; a hole on the outside remains , in which probably a hook or button was inserted . Total

o L e e f th . length shoe, 95inches . at ly in Bateman Collection

The of L property Mrs . Seymour ucas . 74 GLOVES AND SHOES

No . 5

- OLE of a ﬁfteen th century shoe . ’ A e In the uthor s coll ction .

No . 6

OU EEN H - EN U F RT T C T RY steel soleret (poulaine) , intro du ced to compare with the ordinary civilian shoe of the

same period . ’ the Author s collection .

Nos 1 . 7 , 8, 9 , 0

OMMON e of everyday l ather shoes the seventeenth century . The second on the left is of buff leather and was found in

e of the of an old house in Cambridge , with a bandoli r reign ’ the A e Charles I . (now in uthor s coll ction) . The remaining three L e of . sho s are in the collection Mrs . Seymour ucas

GLOVES AND SHOES 75

PLATE IV

M E DIZEVAL TO E PI ECES SIXTEENTH CENTURY

H R E E — toe - e e e broad , black leather pi c s pounced and slash d ,

e e s m asuring resp ctively inches , 5; inches , and 4 ; inche

The i e of the a e across . m litary steel sol rets partook s m exaggerated character . G e L uildhall Mus um , ondon . 76 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE V

M E DITEVAL S H O E AND PATTENS

No . 1

UA E — OE - e e e the e e SQ R T D , black l ath r sho , minus h el and sid

e e f e L . l ath r , ound in excavations in Windmill Stre t , ondon

e . It measures 93 inches , the toe at its wid st being 3 3 inches

L e f e A the at ﬁ t enth century . similar shape was in use in armour at same period .

No . 2

OO EN e of f e e W D patt n , made two lat pi c s , overlapping in

the e e fﬁ e centre, and hinged with l ath r ; it retains su ci nt of the to e and heel straps to indicate the mode of fastening

the s e . e 1 0 2 e it to ho It m asures 3 inches in length , and inch s at

f the e e o f . the wid st part sol . Fourteenth to ﬁ teenth century

No . 3

W O of e e e e views a wood n patt n , inch s long and 3 2inch s

e the e e of e at its wid st . From irr gular h ights the proj cting supports it would app ear to have original ly stood on an iron

f ee he f . t rame Fourteenth to ﬁ t nth century . From drawings by

A ﬁ' om the G L uthor examples in uildhall Museum , ondon .

PL A YE V%

78 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE VII PEAKED S H OE FIFTEENTH CENTURY

HIS ﬁne example of a fourteenth or ﬁfteen th- century peaked

Cra céow e o f f - e shoe , or , was the kind oot g ar worn by wealthy people at a time when costume general ly had reached an extravagant stage ; the peak o r point extended so far

e f e e ffi of e e b yond the oot that it r quir d a stu ng ith r hay , moss , or

e e the e e wool to keep it in shap , and in ord r to allow w ar r to walk the e f e e e point had to be turn d upwards , and ast n d to the kn e by a

e e e e e sl nd r chain or a coloured cord . Som times th se l ngthy points

’ e e e the e w r twist d into shape of a ram s horn . This peak d shoe measures from the p 01n t to the heel 1 5 inches ; the sole throughout

o f of e al the e of the S e e e is one piece leath r , as is so upp r part ho th r

e e for the e in situ are hol s at the inner sid lac , which is still , and the

s e f e e in t p lap , some 3 } inch s long , is still r maining , though not

The e e e standing up as it would have done originally . sol is xtrem ly 1 e of the thin , b ing only 13 an inch at tip and éat the thickest part , which indicates that it was only intended to b e worn indoors ; or if for u se e outdoor , it would hav to be worn with a clog or patten ,

The o f which at that period was a common fashion . height the

e ee e e e ffe e leath r at the h l is 3 inch s , its insid b ing sti ned by an xtra thickness of leather : the stitching throughout is of a very coarse

e Fair ol t la n d . h t Cos u me in E n d scription , in his g , gives an illustration

f — The Crackow e o e the 1 6 0 1 0 0 . a similar shoe , and ﬁx s date as 4 5

f e e described above was ound in an anci nt hous in Toledo , and was

e f e e G . . purchas d shortly a ter its discov ry by its pres nt possessor , eo C ’ E s r H e . ait , q

GLOVES AND SHOES 79

PLATE VIII

C H O PINE S

No . 1

o i o f o r al NE f . e 2 e a pa r chopines , t l clog The sol s , 3 inch s

of thick , are built cork , and are , with their latchets , covered

e e of with grey ribbed silk ; a larg silk rosett , originally salmon

f e f e an d pink , but now aded to a gr y colour , is ast ned on the instep

e e cov rs the lacing eyelet hol s .

NO . 2

NE o f for the f of the a pair , right oot , similar shape to

e on e of e of pr vious , but coarser workmanship and mad . e e o f e e e black l ath r ; the soles th s are 5 ; inch s high , and

of e of e are constructed lay rs or small blocks cork , the c ntre being

e e of hollow the outer sid s retain som traces painting . f are the A O . The above in shmolean Museum , x ord

No . 3

VE o f e RY elegant chopine , wood covered with white leath r , ’ of e e f having a kind sandal , in which the w ar r s oot was

e e placed , and provided with a broad bas to giv a better

1 2 e o f the balance . Its height is inches , and is an excellent xample

V e enetian chopin .

In the British Museum . 80 GLO VES AND SHOES

The of E e chopine is said to be astern origin , and repres ntations of these articles of foot - gear may be found in pictures of Turkish

of E H e e . e ladi s in the time our Queen lizabeth aml t , when sp aking “ ’ o n e of the r e to lady actors , says , By lady , your ladyship is near r ” e of e h aven than when I saw you last by the altitude a chopin .

e O f Of e s They wer made wood , or cork , t n eighteen inche high , and

of f covered with leather various colours , and not un requently decorated E f with painted designs . They were introduced into ngland rom

V 1 6 0 enice as late as 7 , though probably were never in very common u se e for in this country . Th ir great height rendered it necessary the

men e wearer to be supported by , or maid servants , wh n walking .

e met f H e It is asserted that when Charl s I . his uture Queen , nrietta

e he e e her She e Maria , at Dov r, cast his y s towards ( s eming higher

e than r port was , reaching to his shoulder) , which she perceiving ,

S s ffe showed him her hoes , saying to thi e ct , Sir , I stand upon mine

f of own eet , I have no help art ; thus high I am , and am neither ’ higher nor lower . Evidently intending the King to understand that she was not standing upon chopines .

GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE IX

QU EEN ELIZ ABET H ’ S BU SKINS

FR OM A DRAW ING BY THE AUTHOR

NE of of - of e a pair riding boots , or buskins , el gant shape are f and excellent workmanship . They made of so t

of e leather a rich brown colour , stitched with whit thread

l of o f the hee s , covered with leather the same colour , are wood , and 3 are 3 inches high ; the soles at the thickest part are 3; of an inch ;

e of e ee e a continuous lay r brown leath r covers both h ls and sol s .

e The entire length fr om the base of the heel to the toe is 7 inch s . The legs are open at the Sides and are pierced for lacing ; their

1 8 f — l total height is inches , and they are lined with awn coloured si k some ﬁve inches from the tops there are four holes on the instep of the buskins , through which a cord or ribbon would be passed to draw the latchets together , to which probably a rosette would be f astened .

e E These buskins , which undoubtedly belonged to Qu en lizabeth ,

f e of are in per ect preservation , and are kept among the tr asures the A h O f s molean Museum , x ord . 82 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE X S H OES OF QU EEN ELIZ ABET H

FR OM DR A W I NG S BY TH E A UTHO R

No . 1

HOE for f f of e of S , the le t oot , an extrem ly handsome pair

e E white satin sho s which belonged to Queen lizabeth .

f e They are beauti ully embroidered with silk and metal wir ,

e e e the colours b ing esthetic green , blu , pink , and y llow . The toes ,

e 2 e e o f ﬂat and square , measur about ; inch s across , the total l ngth

ei 1 1 e e e . 1 88 the shoes b ng about inch s . Th y w re in Case C in the f o N G E 1 0 2 . catalogue the ew allery xhibition , 9

No . 2

IGHT shoe of a pair also once belonging to Queen

E e are of e - em lizabeth . Thes ribb d salmon coloured silk , broidered in silver and cri mson ; the toes are square and

The e are blocked , and are about inches wide . he ls square , and

The of 1 0 . some inches high ; length shoes , inches lining on

red e the inner sole is a dark leather . Th se were exhibited in the

e are of same case with the above , and both sp cimens the property E arl Brownlow .

GLOVES AND SHOES 83

No . 3

S E E IZ ET EE H O OF L AB H , QU N OF BO H EM I A SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

NE of of of L C a pair shoes , once in the possession ady otton ,

of w ho e o f Conington , Cambs , had be n in the service their

P e E e the e of owner , the rinc ss lizab th , daught r James I .

of ee They are red cloth , embroidered with silver , and have black h ls . They measure 9 inches in length ; the toe is 1 —2inches wide and the heel 22inches high . The following inscription is attached to the shoes

P E f of e Shoes of rincess lizabeth , a terwards Queen Boh mia , ’ of G fe her daughter James I . iven to my wi s great grandmother by

L of godmother , old ady Cotton , Conington , in Cambridgeshire , who

e had been in the service of the above Princ ss . (Signed) Matthew Rugeley Sep z u d 1 79 7 ” e Joseph Mill r .

ffr In the Sa on Walden Museum . 84 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XI

S H OES OF C HARLES I

W O f of views , back and ront, a pair of shoes which belonged

e of to King Charles . They are mad brown leather , which

e h e e is covered with black velv t , bot leath r and velv t now sadly decayed ; the total length from toe to h eel is 1 0; inches ; the

e e e e ee e of squar to s m asur inches across ; the h ls , appar ntly

e 2 e l ather and hollow and riveted with small wooden pegs , are inch s

e e e e high and 3 inch s across , and w r originally cov red , like the shoes ,

the e with black velvet , but nap has now almost entir ly disappeared f the f e e e rom sur ac . The sol s are bevell d at the edges , which give a

e light app arance , and as they show but little trace of wear , prob

for f ably were only used indoor purposes . The square laps on the

are instep 4 ; inches wide at the top , and were undoubtedly partly ’ covered by the large rosettes so familiar in Van Dyck s portraits of King Charles ; the insides of these flaps are lined with a rich ribbed

an d black silk , are bound with the same material ; the stitching

18 of throughout very ﬁne . This interesting pair shoes was at on e

e of of is time in the coll ction the Duke Buckingham, but now the

- of G al E . G L property ener W . . ytton Bulwer .

86 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XIII M ILITARY JACK BO OTS SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

FROM DR AW INGS BY THE AUTHOR

No . 1

of i of — fo r the ef f of e e a pa r jack boots , l t oot , an xc ption

e e f e e the e s e . e are o ally l gant charact r Th y black l ath r , l g being strengthened by six vertical bands of leather 2of an

w e e on e - e inch id , and v ry neatly stitched the boot ; the b ll shap d

are of f e e e e e tops a so t l ath r , which nabl d the wear r at will to turn them down when necessary the heels are composed of three thick

e of e ness s or layers l ather , and are 3 inches high , which must have produced considerable pressure on the instep there is a spur - rest of

few The of the leather a inches above the heel . total height boots i s 6 of e 2 inches . This kind boot was worn by the cavalry regim nts

of in the latter part the seventeenth century . of L Tower ondon .

NO . 2

IGHT - on e of jack boot , a pair , having a heavy and clumsy

e W i — e e appearanc , th well shap d instep stirrup guards ; th ir

e e h ight is inch s . The soles , an inch thick , are com posed of ﬁve layers of leather the heels are 2 inches high and are

e e e e s hollow . Th s boots r tain th ir purs , which are kept in position “ ” the the o f e by rests at back the he l .

e of L Tow r ondon .

GLOVES AND SHOES 87

PLATE XIV

CAPTAIN L ENCHE ’ S BOOT SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

’ VE RY perfect specimen of a Cavalier s boot of the seventeenth c entury the large bell — shaped top could be worn either as shown in the picture or pulled up over the knee and thigh

of the e at the pleasure w arer . It is said to have been worn by

L e e of e e Captain , or Colonel , ench at the battl Worc st r when ﬁghting

e the of e L und r banner the Royalists . Colon l enche lived at Church

Le e far f e e of nch , n ar Worcester , which is not rom the resid nc an

of of the e e e fa ancestor the present possessor r lic , b tween whos mily , ’ f s e of on the wi e sid , there was some relationship with that Colonel

L of the enche . The boot is black leather ; bell top , apparently ff 1 0 the originally bu , measures inches across , while at bottom it

1 the e of the 1 8 is 7 inches h ight boot is inches the heel , which

of e of 2 e the is composed thirt en layers leather , is ; inch s high ;

e of to e e sol , three layers , is éan inch thick ; the is squar d and is

e its — e 3 inches wid . The boot retains original stirrup leath r and “ - e S for o f e eight point d rowel pur , the support which ther is a rest

v the ee ibald 2 . S some inches abo e h l Sir Scott , in his book on

' '

Tﬁe Brztzsﬁ A r m of in terestm . y , gives a small engraving this g boot

of A 8. E s r The property . Field , q . 88 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XV

M ILI TARY BOOTS SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

WO fr Of views , giving the back and ont , military boots in ‘ i common wear dur ng the great Civil War . The large overhanging bell tops could be used by the wearer as described in the previous plate ; they are made of very stout black

e e ee of leather , with thick soles and squar d to s the h ls are several

e of e - e lay rs leather , and ther are spur r sts above them . These

e the boots are pr served in ancient chapel , now used as a museum ,

of e standing within the ruined walls Farleigh Castl , Somersetshire . It is a singular fact that this Castle was held for a short time during

fo r H f e the Civil War , the king , by a Colonel unger ord , whil its

e E H f actual owner at the tim , Sir dward unger ord , was commanding

e f the e the Wiltshir orces on side of the Commonw alth .

of L The boots are the property ord Donington .

GLOVES AND SHOES 89

PLATE XVI

No . 1

S H O ES OF QU EEN ANN E

H of A IS pair shoes , said to have belonged to Queen nne, is extremely elegant and neat the material of which they are

e - mad is sky blue satin , entirely without ornamentation the

ee are e e e of h ls , which cov r d with the sam material , are wood , and are 2 inches high ; the latchets are wide and fastened across the

o insteps by the original gilt metal buckles . The entire length f 1 e fr toe 8 - the sho s om to heel is 53 inches , and they are the property of Mrs . Simpson Carson .

No 2 .

BEAUTIFUL pair of eighteenth - century shoes of crimson

velvet embroidered with gold .

No . 3

HE clogs belonging to the above . In the Northampton

Museum . 9 0 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XVII TH E DUKE OF GLO UCESTER’ S BOOT

NE of of of of e a pair boots , singular character , late sevent enth

e of - e century workmanship . Th y are made rough grain d

e e black leather , n atly stitched with whit thread . The bell

of ff e e e ffe the the tops are bu leath r , pi rc d and go red at lower edge

ee are f e e are h ls low and lat ; the to s squar and slightly blocked , 2 inches wide ; the total height of the boots from the heels to the

s 8 e th of the f is 6 h e e e e . e e b ll top is ; inch s , l ngth oot inc s Th s

e e P e H e e of interesting r lics b longed to rinc William nry , Duk

G e e the of P ft r e A e P louc st r , son rincess (a e wards Qu en) nn and rince f G o . of eorge Denmark The lad died at the age eleven , early in

1 7 0 0 .

of A e The boots , which were at one time the property ld rman

f r of the e of A Fletcher , now orm pa t coll ction the shmolean Museum , O f x ord .

9 2 GLOVE S AND SHOES

NO . 2

A PAI R OF LADY ’ S S H OES SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

’ PA of of f - IR lady s shoes pale awn coloured silk brocade ,

e f ﬁgured with a light and dark electric blu pattern of oliage .

e the ee The insides are lined with y llow canvas , and h ls , as

of are e e e 2 e usual wood , cover d with brocad and measur 2inch s in

e height . The toes are pointed and slightly upturned . Their gen ral

e e design is v ry legant .

e of A In the coll ction the uthor .

N o . 3

A LADY ’ S S H OES AND CLOGS

HE pair of shoes and clogs on the lower part of the plate are excellent examples of the foot - gear o f a well - to - do county

of lady the early part of the eighteenth century . They are of e of 2 made yellow worsted brocade the he ls , wood , 2inches

e high , are cover d with the same material . The latchets are wide , f and have been astened with buckles .

of the S e The clogs , one which is on the shoe , other hown besid , al of f ff are so yellow brocade , the tabs being tied with aded bu ribbon ,

fl e e and have at leath r soles . These sho s and clogs belonged to a lady

of ﬂ e f e . an in u ntial amily once residing at Chest rton , near Cambridge

of A In the collection the uthor .

9 4 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XX

No . 1 S H O ES OF T H E REI GN OF WI LLI AM AND MARY

PA of e IR blackish brown leather sho s , with double latchets

s e eme e f e the cro sing xtr ly high inst p ﬂaps , and ast ning at

s e of The ides by m ans a button and hook . ﬂap is well

e s e e e e the shap d , and give an l gant and smart app aranc to shoes .

The e of 2 e e e he ls , wood , are inch s high and are cov r d with crimson

e the e are e e O f S e leath r ; to s round d , and the total l ngth the ho s is

e e 9; inches . Th y wer originally in the Bateman Collection .

No . 2 LORD TREVOR’ S S H O ES SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

HE of the are of second pair shoes on plate crimson leather ,

fl of e with wide instep aps , and having no indication a m ans

of f the are of the astening soles 3 an inch thick , and heels , of are black leather and hollow, are inches high . The toes square

: e 2 e of L and m asure 2inches across ; the nam ord Trevor , in writing of e b e e of of an anci nt character , may traced on the undersid one

of e 1s of of . the instep ﬂaps . This kind sho s the period Charles I e Both the above pairs of shoe s are the property of Mrs . S ymour L ucas .

FL A [15 XX % GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XXI

No . 1 A S H O E OF TH E REI GN OF G EORGE I I

NE of of a very handsome pair silk damask shoes , the pre

e e m — The vailing colours b ing green , y llow , and sal on pink .

e 2 of e e he ls , inches high , are wood and are cov r d with

The e e silk damask . toes are upturn d and extrem ly pointed ; the

e are of e f the of latch ts broad and show signs w ar rom use buckles .

The e of the e f to e to ee is e e total l ngth sho s rom h l inch s . Th ir

e of the e o f Ge e of e dat is r ign org II . In the collection Mrs . S ymour L ucas .

No . 2 A LADY ’ S S H O E EIG HTEENTH CENTURY

’ NE of of o f f e of a pair lady s shoes grace ul shape , mad silk

e e of fl e e e brocad , with a patt rn ow rs and l av s in various

r The e are e e . colou s , pink , blue , gre n and gold latch ts wid ,

e fl e and were intended to b e fastened across the inst p aps with buckl s .

e e are 2 The heels , cover d with brocad , 2inches high , and the toes

e are extremely point d . The shoes are lined with white kid leather , f e e the o . xc pt instep ﬂap , and that has a lining pale pink ribbed silk They are thus described by their owner These sho es belonged to

- — of my maternal great great grandmother , Mrs . Cook , the Manor

H The ouse , Findern , Derbyshire . date would be about

The of . . P . property Mrs C M . rickett 9 6 GLOVES AND SHOES

NO . 3

COM BINED S H OE AND CLOG

NE of of es e a pair very elegant sho and clogs combin d ,

e - e s e e of e e known also as doubl sol d ho s , mad whit kid l ather ,

which app ears to have been covered with cream silk damask . The insteps and toes richly embroidered with pale pink or salmon coloured silk are powdered with s eed pearls the heel s retain traces of e the are m e for e f the pink brocad latchets ad tying , and s em rom fragments remaining to have had a fringe and ruching of pearly grey

e the e e silk , which divided the sho across instep , whil b low the latchets on the instep flap four holes are punched at regular distances probably

o The as a means of afﬁxing a rosette or bow f ribbon . heels taper 1 2 downwards and are ; inches high , gaining an additional 5, inch

of the fl ee of i by the thickness at h l the clog , which w th the sole ,

of e e e 1 e also ﬂat , is brown l ath r . The toes , m asuring ; inch s across , are e The e of the ﬂat and squar . total l ngth clogs is inches , the heels being 1 2inches wide ; though the colours of the brocade are

f the e e are . aded , shoes in oth r resp cts in good condition Examples of th ese combined shoes and clogs are to be found in ’ V D ck s an y portrait pictures .

A e N similar sho is in the museum at orthampton , and the Cluny

- e P o f f . e Mus um , aris , has also a specimen this peculiar oot gear Th ir date is probably of the ﬁrst half o f the seventeenth century .

of L . In the collection Mrs . Seymour ucas

GLOVES AND SHOES 9 7

PLATE XXII

No . 1

M UD GUARDS EIGHTEENTH CENTURY

PA of mud for of e IR guards , intended the use gentlem n riding in knee breeches and stockings and when not wearing

- E of on e 1 riding boots . ach guard is made p ece of stout

f— f an d f the leather , shaped as a hal leg and oot , astened to stirrup ; a leather socket inside the top and an incision over the instep allows

the stirrup strap to pass through , while there are two small incisions

for i i 1n 1 1 at the side a strap which would keep the st rrup ron pos t on .

l e The origina spurs are ﬁxtures on the guards , but have been at som

e n time or other lowered from their pr vious positio , which was evidently too high and too far outwards to have been effectively used ’ on the horse s ﬂanks . f are These very singular guards were ound in Bolsover Castle , and now in that excellent collection of foot - gear in the Northampton

Museum . 9 8 GLOVES AND SHOES

No . 2

A POSTI LLI ON ’ S BOOT EIG HTEENTH CENTURY

’ POSTILLION S boot of the eighteenth century heavy and

for clumsy , but well suited its purpose .

No . 3

A M I LITARY GAITE R

L A ai of MI IT RY g ter , or legging , in use during the reign G 1 eorge II . ( 7 with its original spur , which is a ﬁxture, of on the heel the gaiter . The lacing at the side is simple

f- of in the extreme , being so arranged that the hal dozen split thongs leather are threaded through each other till the topmost is held by a button .

N . Both the above are in the Castle Museum , orwich

PL 4 TE X A' l / l GLOVES AND SHOES 9 9

PLATE XXIII

LADY ’ S Y ELLOW S H OES EIGHTEENTH CENTURY

’ extremely perfect and dainty pair of lady s shoes of bright

e e fl i y llow brocade , embroider d in oral designs w th crimson

e w 1re e silk and gr en , the pattern being displayed on each sho f hé' with an utter disregard to uni ormity . T stitching is throughout

IS e the w w very neat . They are lined , as v ry generally case , ith hite l . 2 canvas The hee s , which are nearly 2inches high , are hollow,

e i and are covered with brocade . The to s are rounded , the nstep fl are aps are wide , as also the buckle latchets . These shoes are reputed to have been worn by Lady Strafford at the trial of her f husband (March , but the tradition is without oundation , as

of A . they belong to a later period . In the collection the uthor

No . 2 A GENTLEMAN ’ S S H OE EIG HTEENTH CENTURY

N for e e far extraordinary shoe , a g ntleman , with a he l higher than is commonly found on shoes of this period it measures

f 6 e e e ull inch s in height . The shoe is xtr mely elegant , has

e the ai e of latch ts crossing instep , and ret ns its original m tal buckle

e A V A v ry ornate design . similar shoe in the ictoria and lbert

e E f of the Mus um , Kensington , is described as nglish , second hal

e e eight enth c ntury .

the e . In Mus um , Whitby 100 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XXIV

A LADY ’S S H OES AND CLOGS EIG HTEENTH CENTURY

’

. PA o f e of e e IR lady s sho s pal gr en damask , ﬁgured with

e— and - i The e of f . whit cr mson ﬂowers and oliage h els , wood ,

e are cov red with white kid leather and are 2; inches high .

The Omted the — n fl the toes are p , and i step aps are cut into points ; entire length of the shoes from the toe to the heel being 7 inches . are al l The latchets sm l , and are held on the instep by their origina

e silver Clasps or fasten rs , which in their turn are held in position by

of - a kind stud in a button hole at the end of the latchets .

of H l e The silver clasps , examples which are rare , are al mark d ,

the of G having head the monarch , eorge III . , the lion passant , and U the date mark , . The clogs belonging to this elegant pair of shoes are of stout

e e of black l ather , the heel guards b ing red leather stitched with

. of white thread The latchets are also black leather and , though now

of e nearly bare , show traces having been onc covered with pink silk

. are f damask The soles per ectly ﬂat .

of e The property Dr . W . T . B nsley .

102 GLOVES AND SHOES

No . 5

- of h early eighteenth century shoe green damask , wit high heel and pointed toe ; the latchets are wide and made for

e being fastened with a buckl .

Nos . 7 an d 8

HE e clog, which belongs to the sho beside it in the picture ,

the of has usual ﬂat sole and heel the sides are red leather , stitched with white thread ; the latchets are of pink silk

- bound with salmon coloured silk braid .

No . 9

UEEN ANNE of red e Q shoe , made and whit striped silk

e ff and cotton material , lin d throughout with bu canvas ; it has a wide and square instep flap and short latchets or tabs for tying with a ribbon or cord ; the toe is pointed ; the heel is of

2 . wood , covered with red leather , and is 5inches high

o All the above are in the collection f the Author . Huds on crk nc P R a h, 6 0 L E R OY S T 7 E CT

104 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XXVII VAR I OU S S H OES AND SLI PPE RS

No . 1

H E W IT satin slipper , with a square toe and a low heel ; it is

S e of bound with ilv r braid , and has a rosette pale blue ribbon

trimmed with silver . The shoe is reputed to have belonged L e 1 0 . to a ady Digby . Dat , about 7 5

No . 2

A of toe SM RT shoe red kid bound with white braid . The is

e e pointed , and the instep is slash d and ornament d with a rosette of white ribbon ; a backing o r lining of white kid

the o f shows through the slashings heel , red leather , is small , and

1 . e . is inches high Date , ighteenth century

No. 3

VE e RY neat slipp r of blue kid , with a low heel and pointed E toe . ighteenth century .

d Nos . 4 an 5

BALL slipper of white ribbed silk goloshed with crimson

- e . O silk , square toed and without h els n the white kid “ ” the e of M ir; Gordon lining is written in ink nam , and the ’ “ ” Pa tters on Ox ord Street . maker s name , , 74 , f , appears on the sole

The for of patten , protecting the slipper , is made brown morocco

V . e the . e e leather , and was worn ov r ball slipper Dat , arly ictorian

106 GLOVES AND SHOES

PLATE XXVIII EASTE RN AND C H OP INES ” ( S H OES No . 1

of e V of PAIR sho s made of hempen string . iews the upper

and sole are given .

No . 2

PAIR of wooden - soled shoes ; the uppers are composed of , e e e e f l ath r cov r d with brown elt , over which is a wide band

of e blue cashmer .

an d Nos . 3 4

OODE N es 8 e chopin , or clogs , inch s high , worn by Turkish women they are thickly inlaid with mother - of— pearl and

of e f silver wire and have bands leath r , which orm a kind of sandal ; these are covered with puce cloth richly embroidered with gold thread .

A e o f E s previously mention d , chopines are astern origin , and early in the seventeenth century were in use among the ladies of

Ve e an d f e nic , eventually ound th ir way into France and , to a small E extent , into ngland .

the e of A In coll ction the uthor .

NO . 5

’ e PAIR of Turkish lady s slippers of green leather . The inn r

soles have small panels of leather work resembling mosaics .

e of e of The under sol s are two thickn sses brown leather , f o f of and the heels , unusual in oriental slippers , are ormed loops

e is e iron . Th ir total length 9 inch s .

— e of A e e E s r. The prop rty . Clark K nn dy , q

GLOVES AND SHOES 107

PLATE XXIX

” O RIENTAL C H I LDREN ’ S S H OES N o . 1

H NE E e fo r of f C I S sho , a child ; it is made various so t

al of - e materi s brilliant colours blu , crimson , yellow, etc . ; its e f h l ngth rom toe to heel is 4 ; inc es . N the orwich Museum .

No . 2

’ OHE AN e e of B MI child s sho , mad crimson and yellow leather ; the upper is joined to the sole with narrow strips of

e E leath r . ntire length , inches .

of e r . E s . The property R Farr n , q

No . 3

H e fu for of e IS b auti l Indian shoe , a child , is made l ather covered with rich embroidery in subdued colours (crimson

ff e e - l e e e the e and bu ) , reli v d by a ruby co our d j w l on inst p

of e e e f i . sole is leath r , and m asur s , rom heel to toe , 4 ; nches the N In orwich Museum . 108 GLOVE S AND SHOES

PLATE AFRICAN SANDALS

No . 1

AN l N e i i of of FRIC sanda s , ig r R ver d strict , leather , and admirable design and workmanship ; the ringed receptacle

for the e s gr at toe is a feature in the andal . e of A In the coll ction the uthor .

No . 2

LA of al fr l l SIMI R pair leather sand s , om the same oca ity , the upper strappings being somewhat more elaborate and

ornamental .

l of e A E s r In the co lection Col mbrose , q .

PLATE XXXII

C H OPINES SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

W O of e e ee ex pairs unusually ﬁne chopin s , which hav b n

hibited e the V A e M by their own r at ictoria and lb rt useum ,

o K en sm t n S uth g o .

The of e the of ﬁrst thes are , as is commonly case , built cork , as

r are e e t being the lightest material fo the purpose . They cov r d wi h

e — f e e stamped leath r , which is inlaid with silver oil , lacqu r d to imitate f e e f o . gilding . The sandals , or latch ts , are ornam nted with tu ts silk

The e e h ight at the he ls is 3 inches . They slope downwards to the

of 1 e 8 toes to a height 2inches , and their l ngth is 2inches .

of a The second pair chopines are of much bolder character , both in size and height , being 72inches at the heels and 52inches at the toes , but only 72inches long at the base, giving but a scanty

e for the of e sol support the wearer . These chopin s are constructed of are e cork , and covered with white leather , having a stamp d and

ef e e e the to p r orat d ornamentation on ither side . The slipp rs , on p o f the e are of e e are structur , also whit l ather , and decorated with a

m e of si ilar but more laborate pattern . The origin and use these singular articles of foot- gear has been al ready mentioned in the

of P e V The l description lat III . examp es here illustrated are the

of . H . F E s r. property J itzhenry , q