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THE ARMOURER and HIS CRAFT from the Xith to the Xvith CENTURY by CHARLES 'FFOULKES; B.Litt.Oxon

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Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/armourerhiscraftOOffouuoft THE ARMOURER AND HIS CRAFT UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME PASTE By A. Beresford Ryley 2; > u 5 Q Z H K z C ^ < . U a X 3 O E P u a Q Z 5 THE ARMOURER AND HIS CRAFT FROM THE XIth TO THE XVIth CENTURY By CHARLES 'FFOULKES; B.Litt.Oxon. WITH SIXTY-NINE DIAGRAMS IN THE TEXT AND THIRTY-TWO PLATES METHUEN & GO. LTD. 36 ESSEX STREET W.G. LONDON First Published in igi2 ^nt^ov. PrwtUd in OrccU TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE VISCOUNT DILLON, Hon. M.A. Oxon. V.P.S.A., Etc. Etc. CURATOR OF THE TOWER ARMOURIES PREFACE DO not propose, in this work, to consider the history or develop- I ment of defensive armour, for this has been more or less fully discussed in works which deal with the subject from the historical side of the question. I have rather endeavoured to compile a work which will, in some measure, fill up a gap in the subject, by collecting all the records and references, especially in English documents, which relate to the actual making of armour and the regulations which con- trolled the Armourer and his Craft. At the same time it is impossible to discuss this branch of the subject without overlapping in some details the existing works on Arms and Armour, but such repetition has only been included because it bears directly on the making, selling, or wearing of armour. I have intentionally omitted all reference to the sword and other weapons of offence, for this would have unduly increased the size of the present work, and the subject is of such importance that it deserves a full consideration in a separate volume. The original limits of this work have been considerably enlarged since it was offered as a thesis for the Degree of Bachelor of Letters in the University of Oxford in the Michaelmas Term, 191 1. A polyglot glossary has been included, as this is a detail which has been practically overlooked by all English writers. The subject of Arms and Armour has not, up to the present time, received the attention in England that it deserves, but I would be the first to admit the value of the works of Meyrick and Hewitt, which are the foundations upon which German and French as well as all English authors have based their investigations. At the same time it should be remembered that these two authors were pioneers, and statements which they made have been contradicted or modified by more recent research. Two b ix THE ARMOURER AND HIS CRAFT examples of this will suffice. Meyrick named the upstanding neck- guards on the pauldron the " passguards " and the neck-armour of the horse the " mainfaire." From the researches of Viscount Dillon we learn that the passguard was a reinforcing piece for the joust and the mainfaire was a gauntlet (main de fer.) Both these mistakes are still perpetuated in foreign works on the subject, which shows the influence of Meyrick's work even at the present day. The subject of the Armourer and his Craft has never received much attention in England, even at the hands of Meyrick and Hewitt. On the Continent, however, writers like the late Dr. Wendelin Boeheim, Gurlitt, Buff, and Angellucci have all added greatly to our store of information on the subject. Boeheim's work on the Armourers of Europe {Meister der Waffenschmiedekunsi) is the only work in any language which has given us some account of the armour craftsmen of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and I should be indeed remiss if I did not take this opportunity of acknowledging the assistance which this collection of biographies has been in the preparation of the present work. Signori Gelli and Moretti have collected interesting documents relating to the Missaglia family, but apart fi*om this no other writers have made a study of the Armourer. Gay's Encyclopcedia^ which unfortunately was cut short after the letter G by the death of the author, is also invaluable as far as it goes, in that it gives in every case contemporary references relating to the use of each word. The late B. Giraud published certain records J. dealing with the Armourer in various French archaeological journals, and M. Charles Buttin has placed all those interested in the subject under a deep obligation for his minute researches on the subject of the proving of armour. Of living English writers I would express the indebtedness not only of myself, but also of all those who are true amateurs d'armes^ to Baron de Cosson, who, with the late Burges, A.R.A., compiled the J. Catalogue of Helmets and Mail which is to this day the standard work on the subject. Last of all I would offer my sincere thanks to PREFACE xi Viscount Dillon, Curator of the Tower Armouries, not only for his minute researches printed in the Archceologia and Archceological jfournal^ which have brought to light much valuable information respect- ing the Armourer and his Craft in English records, but also for very great personal interest and assistance in the compilation of this work. CHARLES FFOULKES S, John's College, Oxford, 1912 CONTENTS PAGE Preface . vii The Armourer . i Tools, Appliances, etc. 22 Iron and Steel . 38 The Craft of the Armourer . 44 The Proof of Armour . 62 The Decoration of Armour . • • 73 The Cleaning of Armour . , . 78 The Use of Fabrics and Linen . • . 83 The Use of Leather . 96 The Wearing of Armour . 104 The Armourers' Company of the City of London . .120 Lists of European Armourers . 126 Short Biographies of Notable Armourers . .131 List of Armourers' Marks . • . 147 Polyglot Glossary of Words dealing with Armour and Weapons . ' ^S3 APPENDICES A. Extract from the Records of the Armourers' Company of London, 1322 (Lib. C, fol. 33) . 169 B. Regulations of the Heaumers' Company, 1347 (City of London Letter Book F, cxlii) . 171 C. Treatise of Worship in Arms, by Johan Hill, Armourer, 1434 (Bod. Lib., Ashmole. 856, art. 22, fol. 376) . .173 D. Traite du Costume Militaire, 1446 (Du Costume Militaire des Fran^ais en 1446, Bib. Nat., Paris, 1997) . 177 E. Extract from the Ordinances of the Armourers of Angers, etc., 1448 (Ordonn. des Rois, XX, 156. Rev. d'Aquitaine, XII, 26. Arch, des B. Pyrenees, E, 302) . i8o xiii THE ARMOURER AND HIS CRAFT PAGE F. Expenses in the Royal Armouries, temp. Henry VIII (Brit. Mus., Cotton. App. XXVIII, f. 76) . .182 G. Petition of Armourers to Queen Elizabeth (Lansdowne MS. 63, f. 5) • 184 H. Undertaking of the Armourers' Company of London to supply Armour (Records of the Company, 161 8) . .186 I. Proclamation against the Use of Gold and Silver except in the Case OF Armour (State Papers Dom. Jac. I, cv) . .187 J. Erection of Plating-mills at Erith (State Papers Dom. Jac. I, clxxx) . 188 K. Regulations as to the Hall-mark of the Armourers' Company (Rymer, XIX, 314) . 191 L. Petition of Armourers (State Papers Dom. Car. 1, cclxxxix, 93) . .192 M. Extract from the Survey of the Tower Armoury, 1660 (Brit. Mus., Harl. MS. 7457) . 193 Index ...... 195 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT PAGE 1. Diagram showing the "glancing surface" , . ... 4 2. Diagram showing the position of the lance in jousting, from Arch. Journ., LV. 5 3. Pauldrons on the statue of Colleoni, Venice, and of a Missaglia suit in the WafFensammlung, Vienna (Plate II) . ^ . 6 4. The solleret, practical and unpractical . ... 6 5. Horse-armour . ... 8 6. Harnischmeister Albrecht, from a painting in the Arsenal, Vienna . 9 7. Cuissard for the off hock of a horse. Musee Porte de Hal, Brussels . 10 8. Arms of the Armourers' Gild, Florence. From the Church of Or San Michele . 14 9. S. George, by Hans Multscher, 1458. Augsburg . , 14 10. Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, arming. Brit. Mus., Cott., Jul., E, IV, fol. 12 b . 15 11. The Westminster helm . ... 17 12. The Brocas helm . ... 17 13. The Fogge helm . 17 14. The Barendyne helm . ... 17 Statide circ. 15. The Mail-maker, from Jost Amman's und Ha/idwerker, 1 590 . .23 16. The Armourer, from the same source as the above . ... 24 17. Burring-machine or "jenny," from the picture by Breughel given on the frontispiece . 36 18. Method of making mail, from Arch. Journ., XXXVII . ... 45 19. Representations of double and single mail, from the effigy of Robert de Mauley, formerly in York Minster, Archaologia, XXXI . ... 45 20. The coif of mail, from the effigy of William, Earl of Pembroke, Temple Church, and an unnamed effigy in Pershore Church, Worcs, after Fairholt . 46 camail, the effigy 21. Attachment of the from of Sir R. Pembridge, Clehonger Church, Hereford . 46 22. Attachment of the camail reconstructed . ... 46 23. Suggested arrangement of "banded" mail, from Arch. Journ., XXXVII, figure from Romance circ. of Alexander, Paris, Bib. Nat., 1 240, and the effigy at Newton Solney, Derbs. 47 a jack, the Chasse S. Ursula^ 24. Foot-soldier wearing from of by Memling, 1475-1485. Bruges . 49 25. Construction of jack, from Arch. Journ., XXXVII . ... 50 26. Brigandine in the WafFensammlung, Vienna, No. 130 . , 50 27. Detail from the picture of S. Victor and donor, by Van der Goes, Glasgow . -51 28. Effigy in Ash Church, Kent, XIV cent. 51 29. Statue of S. George at Prague, 1375 . ... 51 30. The sliding rivet . ... 52 31. Sections of brassards in the Tower . ... 54 32. Locking gauntlet of Sir Henry Lee. Armourers' Hall, London . • • 55 33' Locking hooks, turning pins, and strap cover .
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  • Heroic Armor of the Italian Renaissnace

    Heroic Armor of the Italian Renaissnace

    30. MASKS GARNITURE OF CHARLES V Filippo Negroli and his brothers Milan, dated 1539 Steel, gold, and silver Wt. 31 lb. 3 oz. (14,490 g) RealArmeria, Patrimonio Nacional, Madrid (A 139) he Masks Garniture occupies a special place in the Negroli Toeuvre as the largest surviving armor ensemble signed by Filippo N egroli and the only example of his work to specify unequivocally the participation of two or more of his broth­ ers. The armor's appellation, "de los mascarones," derives from the grotesque masks that figure prominently in its dec­ oration, and it was coined by Valencia de Don Juan (1898) to distinguish it from the many other harnesses of Charles V in the Real Armeria. Indeed, for Valencia, none of the emperor's numerous richly embellished armors could match this one for the beauty of its decoration. As the term "garniture" implies, the harness possesses a number of exchange and reinforcing pieces that allow it to be employed, with several variations, for mounted use in the field as well as on foot. The exhibited harness is composed of the following ele­ ments: a burgonet with hinged cheekpieces and a separate, detachable buffe to close the face opening; a breastplate with two downward-overlapping waist lames and a single skirt lame supporting tassets (upper thigh defenses) of seven lames each that are divisible between the second and third lames; a backplate with two waist lames and a single culet (rump) lame; asymmetrical pauldrons (shoulder defenses) made in one with vambraces (arm defenses) and having large couters open on the inside of the elbows; articulated cuisses (lower thigh defenses) with poleyns (knees); and half­ greaves open on the inside of the leg.