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www.freeclassicebooks.com A Tramp Abroad By Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) www.freeclassicebooks.com 1 www.freeclassicebooks.com A TRAMP ABROAD, Part 1 By Mark Twain (Samuel L. Clemens) First published in 1880 2 www.freeclassicebooks.com CONTENTS CHAPTER I - [The Knighted Knave of Bergen].........................................................................7 CHAPTER II – Heidelberg - [Landing a Monarch at Heidelberg] ......................................14 CHAPTER III - Baker's Bluejay Yarn - [What Stumped the Blue Jays].........................25 CHAPTER IV - Student Life - [The Laborious Beer King]...................................................30 CHAPTER V - At the Students' Dueling-Ground - [Dueling by Wholesale]..................37 CHAPTER VI - [A Sport that Sometimes Kills].......................................................................44 CHAPTER VII - [How Bismark Fought] ....................................................................................49 CHAPTER VIII - The Great French Duel..................................................................................61 CHAPTER IX - [What the Beautiful Maiden Said] ................................................................78 CHAPTER X - [How Wagner Operas Bang Along].................................................................85 CHAPTER XI - [I Paint a "Turner"].............................................................................................96 CHAPTER XII - [What the Wives Saved] ................................................................................103 CHAPTER XIII - [My Long Crawl in the Dark] .....................................................................110 CHAPTER XIV - [Rafting Down the Neckar] .........................................................................118 CHAPTER XV - [Charming Waterside Pictures] ..................................................................129 CHAPTER XVI - An Ancient Legend of the Rhine [The Lorelei]......................................138 CHAPTER XVII - [Why Germans Wear Spectacles] ............................................................150 CHAPTER XVIII - [The Kindly Courtesy of Germans]........................................................163 CHAPTER XIX - [The Deadly Jest of Dilsberg].....................................................................175 CHAPTER XX - [My Precious, Priceless Tear-Jug] .............................................................190 CHAPTER XXI - [Insolent Shopkeepers and Gabbling Americans]...............................200 CHAPTER XXII - [The Black Forest and Its Treasures] ....................................................218 CHAPTER XXIII - [Nicodemus Dodge and the Skeleton] ..................................................232 CHAPTER XXIV - [I Protect the Empress of Germany] .....................................................243 CHAPTER XXV - [Hunted by the Little Chamois]...............................................................252 CHAPTER XXVI - [The Nest of the Cuckoo-clock] ..............................................................272 3 www.freeclassicebooks.com CHAPTER XXVII - [I Spare an Awful Bore] ...........................................................................287 CHAPTER XXVIII - [The Jodel and Its Native Wilds] .........................................................304 CHAPTER XXIX - [Looking West for Sunrise] ......................................................................325 CHAPTER XXX - [Harris Climbs Mountains for Me]..........................................................332 CHAPTER XXXI - [Alp-scaling by Carriage]..........................................................................346 CHAPTER XXXII - [The Jungfrau, the Bride, and the Piano] .........................................360 CHAPTER XXXIII - [We Climb Far--by Buggy].....................................................................372 CHAPTER XXXIV - [The World's Highest Pig Farm]...........................................................382 CHAPTER XXXV - [Swindling the Coroner] ..........................................................................396 CHAPTER XXXVI - [The Fiendish Fun of Alp-climbing] ...................................................418 CHAPTER XXXVII - [Our Imposing Column Starts Upward]..........................................433 CHAPTER XXXVIII - [I Conquer the Gorner Grat]..............................................................449 CHAPTER XXXIX - [We Travel by Glacier] ............................................................................466 CHAPTER XL - [Piteous Relics at Chamonix] ......................................................................477 CHAPTER XLI - [The Fearful Disaster of 1865]...................................................................490 CHAPTER XLII - [Chillon has a Nice, Roomy Dungeon]...................................................497 CHAPTER XLIII - [My Poor Sick Friend Disappointed] .....................................................515 CHAPTER XLIV - Hunting The Deceitful Turkey - [I Scale Mont Blanc--by Telescope] ............................................................................................................................................................527 CHAPTER XLV - A Catastrophe Which Cost Eleven Lives...............................................539 CHAPTER XLVI - [Meeting a Hog on a Precipice]................................................................542 CHAPTER XLVII - [Queer European Manners]....................................................................552 CHAPTER XLVIII - [Beauty of Women--and of Old Masters] ..........................................567 CHAPTER XLIX - [Hanged with a Golden Rope] .................................................................580 CHAPTER L - [Titian Bad and Titian Good]..........................................................................594 4 www.freeclassicebooks.com CHAPTER I A Tramp over Europe--On the Holsatia--Hamburg--Frankfort-on-the- Main--How it Won its Name--A Lesson in Political Economy--Neatness in Dress--Rhine Legends--"The Knave of Bergen" The Famous Ball--The Strange Knight--Dancing with the Queen--Removal of the Masks--The Disclosure--Wrath of the Emperor--The Ending CHAPTER II At Heidelberg--Great Stir at a Hotel--The Portier--Arrival of the Empress--The Schloss Hotel--Location of Heidelberg--The River Neckar--New Feature in a Hotel--Heidelberg Castle--View from the Hotel--A Tramp in the Woods--Meeting a Raven--Can Ravens Talk?--Laughed at and Vanquished--Language of Animals--Jim Baker--Blue-Jays CHAPTER III Baker's Blue-Jay Yarn--Jay Language--The Cabin--"Hello, I reckon I've struck something"--A Knot Hole--Attempt to fill it--A Ton of Acorns--Friends Called In--A Great Mystery--More Jays called A Blue Flush--A Discovery--A Rich Joke--One that Couldn't See It CHAPTER IV Student Life--The Five Corps--The Beet King--A Free 5 www.freeclassicebooks.com Life--Attending Lectures--An Immense Audience--Industrious Students--Politeness of the Students--Intercourse with the Professors Scenes at the Castle Garden--Abundance of Dogs--Symbol of Blighted Love--How the Ladies Advertise CHAPTER V The Students' Dueling Ground--The Dueling Room--The Sword Grinder--Frequency of the Duels--The Duelists--Protection against Injury--The Surgeon--Arrangements for the Duels--The First Duel--The First Wound--A Drawn Battle--The Second Duel--Cutting and Slashing--Interference of the Surgeon CHAPTER VI The Third Duel--A Sickening Spectacle--Dinner between Fights--The Last Duel--Fighting in Earnest--Faces and Heads Mutilated--Great Nerve of the Duelists--Fatal Results not Infrequent--The World's View of these Fights CHAPTER VII Corps--laws and Usages--Volunteering to Fight--Coolness of the Wounded--Wounds Honorable--Newly bandaged Students around Heidelberg--Scarred Faces Abundant--A Badge of Honor--Prince Bismark as a Duelist--Statistics--Constant Sword Practice--Color of the 6 www.freeclassicebooks.com Corps--Corps Etiquette CHAPTER I - [The Knighted Knave of Bergen] One day it occurred to me that it had been many years since the world had been afforded the spectacle of a man adventurous enough to undertake a journey through Europe on foot. After much thought, I decided that I was a person fitted to furnish to mankind this spectacle. So I determined to do it. This was in March, 1878. I looked about me for the right sort of person to accompany me in the capacity of agent, and finally hired a Mr. Harris for this service. It was also my purpose to study art while in Europe. Mr. Harris was in sympathy with me in this. He was as much of an enthusiast in art as I was, and not less anxious to learn to paint. I desired to learn the German language; so did Harris. Toward the middle of April we sailed in the HOLSATIA, Captain Brandt, and had a very pleasant trip, indeed. After a brief rest at Hamburg, we made preparations for a long 7 www.freeclassicebooks.com pedestrian trip southward in the soft spring weather, but at the last moment we changed the program, for private reasons, and took the express-train. We made a short halt at Frankfort-on-the-Main, and found it an interesting city. I would have liked to visit the birthplace of Gutenburg, but it could not be done, as no memorandum of the site of the house has been kept. So we spent an hour in the Goethe mansion instead. The city permits this house to belong to private parties, instead of gracing and dignifying herself with the honor of possessing and protecting it. Frankfort is one of the sixteen cities