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Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
Historic Furnishings Assessment, Morristown National Historical Park, Morristown, New Jersey
~~e, ~ t..toS2.t.?B (Y\D\L • [)qf- 331 I J3d-~(l.S National Park Service -- ~~· U.S. Department of the Interior Historic Furnishings Assessment Morristown National Historical Park, Morristown, New Jersey Decemb r 2 ATTENTION: Portions of this scanned document are illegible due to the poor quality of the source document. HISTORIC FURNISHINGS ASSESSMENT Ford Mansion and Wic·k House Morristown National Historical Park Morristown, New Jersey by Laurel A. Racine Senior Curator ..J Northeast Museum Services Center National Park Service December 2003 Introduction Morristown National Historical Park has two furnished historic houses: The Ford Mansion, otherwise known as Washington's Headquarters, at the edge of Morristown proper, and the Wick House in Jockey Hollow about six miles south. The following report is a Historic Furnishings Assessment based on a one-week site visit (November 2001) to Morristown National Historical Park (MORR) and a review of the available resources including National Park Service (NPS) reports, manuscript collections, photographs, relevant secondary sources, and other paper-based materials. The goal of the assessment is to identify avenues for making the Ford Mansion and Wick House more accurate and compelling installations in order to increase the public's understanding of the historic events that took place there. The assessment begins with overall issues at the park including staffing, interpretation, and a potential new exhibition on historic preservation at the Museum. The assessment then addresses the houses individually. For each house the researcher briefly outlines the history of the site, discusses previous research and planning efforts, analyzes the history of room use and furnishings, describes current use and conditions, indicates extant research materials, outlines treatment options, lists the sources consulted, and recommends sourc.es for future consultation. -
Qinqiang Opera Drama Costume Connotation and Aesthetic
2nd International Conference on Education Technology, Management and Humanities Science (ETMHS 2016) Qinqiang opera drama costume connotation and aesthetic implication 1, a Yugang Chen 1Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology, Jiangxi, Nanchang, 330201 [email protected] Keywords: Qinqiang opera drama; Clothing; The cultural connotation Abstract. Qinqiang opera drama is one of the most exquisite stylized performance of traditional Chinese local operas. Qinqiang opera drama clothing, and other theatrical performances of traditional clothing similarity is exquisite and stylized, decorative effect as well as the audiences in the symbolization of abstract feelings, dramatic clothes in qinqiang opera drama very expressive aesthetics and art. Introduction Qinqiang opera drama as a traditional Chinese drama conductions, its dramatic clothes also represents the character appearance of traditional drama clothing, under the stylized costumes or wear shows of the respect and inheritance on traditional culture. Studies of qinqiang opera costume for one of the models, style characteristic, found that it contains the cultural connotation and aesthetic implication, the essence of traditional clothing, for the development of qinqiang opera drama has a positive and far-reaching significance. The formation of Qinqiang opera drama clothing Qin has been active in shanxi, gansu and the northwest region is the vast land of an ancient opera. The earliest qinqiang opera originated in shanxi guanzhong area, from the perspective of the change of type c, Qin Sheng, qin three stages. In the qianlong period reached for her best. From the point of geography, shanxi, gansu, ningxia, qinghai, xinjiang northwest five provinces close to geographical culture, so the ancient qin, with its wide sound big voice spoke quickly popular in this area. -
The Rights of War and Peace Book I
the rights of war and peace book i natural law and enlightenment classics Knud Haakonssen General Editor Hugo Grotius uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu ii ii ii iinatural law and iienlightenment classics ii ii ii ii ii iiThe Rights of ii iiWar and Peace ii iibook i ii ii iiHugo Grotius ii ii ii iiEdited and with an Introduction by iiRichard Tuck ii iiFrom the edition by Jean Barbeyrac ii ii iiMajor Legal and Political Works of Hugo Grotius ii ii ii ii ii ii iiliberty fund ii iiIndianapolis ii uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu This book is published by Liberty Fund, Inc., a foundation established to encourage study of the ideal of a society of free and responsible individuals. The cuneiform inscription that serves as our logo and as the design motif for our endpapers is the earliest-known written appearance of the word “freedom” (amagi), or “liberty.” It is taken from a clay document written about 2300 b.c. in the Sumerian city-state of Lagash. ᭧ 2005 Liberty Fund, Inc. All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America 09 08 07 06 05 c 54321 09 08 07 06 05 p 54321 Frontispiece: Portrait of Hugo de Groot by Michiel van Mierevelt, 1608; oil on panel; collection of Historical Museum Rotterdam, on loan from the Van der Mandele Stichting. Reproduced by permission. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Grotius, Hugo, 1583–1645. [De jure belli ac pacis libri tres. English] The rights of war and peace/Hugo Grotius; edited and with an introduction by Richard Tuck. p. cm.—(Natural law and enlightenment classics) “Major legal and political works of Hugo Grotius”—T.p., v. -
The Lining of Futou (Chinese Traditional Male Headwear) Is Called As Jinzi, Whose Produc
G Model CULHER-3209; No. of Pages 9 ARTICLE IN PRESS Journal of Cultural Heritage xxx (2017) xxx–xxx Available online at ScienceDirect www.sciencedirect.com Original article Investigating the materials and manufacture of Jinzi: The lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) from the Astana Cemeteries, Xinjiang, China a,b b,∗ b c b Huijuan Mai , Yimin Yang , Hongen Jiang , Bo Wang , Changsui Wang a Key Laboratory of Vertebrate Evolution and Human Origins of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Institute of Vertebrate Paleontology and Paleoanthropology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing 100044, People’s Republic of China b Department of Archaeology and Anthropology, University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing 100049, People’s Republic of China c Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region Museum, Ürümchi 830000, People’s Republic of China a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t Article history: Headwear research is an integral part of costume study, which is regarded as a cultural symbol of human Received 22 September 2016 society. In China, the lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) is called as Jinzi, whose produc- Accepted 28 February 2017 tion information is little known. This paper focuses on the analysis of materials and manufacture of Jinzi, Available online xxx found in Astana Cemeteries (dated from about the 3rd to the 9th centuries C.E.), Turpan Basin, Xinjiang, China. The fibers of Jinzi were identified by FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy), Light Micro- Keywords: scope Examination and Drying-Twist Test; while the black pigment was characterized through Raman Headwear Spectroscopy. -
Of Hats and History
Black sinamay cartwheel hat with asymmetrical brim with draped black mesh. Miss Jones by Stephen Jones, ca. 1990s. Ryerson FRC2009.01.608. Gift of Kathleen Kubas. OF HATS & HISTORY By Dr. Ingrid Mida Hats are one of the most visible means to signal power, class, status, belonging and/or conformity to modes of dress. After all, for centuries kings and queens November 14, 2013 wore crowns to signal their power and dynastic position and their servants would be required to remove their hat in their presence to demonstrate their subservience. Hats can also convey emotional states (mourning) or marital status (bridal veils). Although hats, outside of ones worn as part of a uniform or religious affiliation, are now generally worn as optional accessories to convey personality or as a form of fashionable ornamentation, it was once considered unseemly for a refined gentleman or woman to appear in public without a hat. Like other dress artifacts, hats reflect the social and cultural attitudes of their period. In terms of fashion history, Canadians often overlook the fact that the fashion for men’s hats created out of beaver felts was an important part of the history and the settlement of this country. Felt was made out of animal hairs and the highest quality hats were made out of beaver pelts. Felt hats were once called “beavers” and signalled that the wearer was rich. The purchase of such a hat was a costly proposition because demand for beaver pelts greatly surpassed the supply. One of the oldest companies in the world, the Hudson’s Bay Company, was founded in 1670, exporting furs from Canada to meet European demand. -
How Many Names for Hats Can You Find?
How many names for hats can you find? D A D E L C O G R O O N S H E W K E G V D L F A S C I N A T O R Y J R S F O I T M T A I I B I B N U J B B C C S G U R J L O S S Y G K D Y H M B K R N M O A Q E Z F W U F E Z Y L B I H R T W E C O O N S K I N C A P C B E G E H X A C T O Q U E N F B E R E T O W Q E P R V U O B E A N I E D M P I C T U R E S I D L T T A F B O H A R D H A T C O A Q O R B U R P P S Z Y X O O R C V P T O R K C E B O W L E R A L H H U N G P D S T E T S O N C A P A J N A I B N F F M L K E I V I T D E P E A C H B A S K E T A S C O T ASCOT A hard style of hat, usually worn by men, dating back to the 1900s. -
The FANLIGHT | Fall 2013 Monroe County Historical Association Community Outreach Continued from Page 1 Mansion and Wanted to Come Back to Learn More
Vol. 24, No. 4 Monroe County Historical Association • www.monroehistorical.org Fall 2013 The importance of community outreach By Amy Leiser Executive Director As the executive director of a non-profit organization, one of my most important tasks is to raise money for our organization. Throughout the year, I, in addition to our staff members and legions of volunteers, work to hold various fundraisers that bring revenue into the Monroe County Historical Association. These funds do everything from paying the electric bills to purchasing archival boxes for our museum’s collections. Sometimes we work hard on events that Linda Rogers reads to young visitors to the 5th Annual Olde Time Fun event are not money-driven. These events can be a held August 31 in the backyard of the Stroud Mansion. nice “change of pace” for myself and everyone the corn toss. Many adults chuckled that the younger involved. That’s not to say that there isn’t the same level of generation was having so much fun throwing an old corn preparation, organization and stress, but events that are cob into a copper bucket. free and open to the public tend to have a somewhat more In conjunction with Olde Time Fun, the Stroud Mansion relaxed feel to them. was open for free tours. Visitors were treated to an At the end of August we held the 5th Annual Olde Time introduction to the Stroud family by Mrs. Stroud herself. Fun event in the backyard of the Stroud Mansion. Tables (OK, Mrs. Stroud was really MCHA Board member Connie were set up with a variety of activities, crafts, and games for McCool in costume!) children. -
The Complete Costume Dictionary
The Complete Costume Dictionary Elizabeth J. Lewandowski The Scarecrow Press, Inc. Lanham • Toronto • Plymouth, UK 2011 Published by Scarecrow Press, Inc. A wholly owned subsidiary of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706 http://www.scarecrowpress.com Estover Road, Plymouth PL6 7PY, United Kingdom Copyright © 2011 by Elizabeth J. Lewandowski Unless otherwise noted, all illustrations created by Elizabeth and Dan Lewandowski. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Lewandowski, Elizabeth J., 1960– The complete costume dictionary / Elizabeth J. Lewandowski ; illustrations by Dan Lewandowski. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 978-0-8108-4004-1 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-8108-7785-6 (ebook) 1. Clothing and dress—Dictionaries. I. Title. GT507.L49 2011 391.003—dc22 2010051944 ϱ ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Printed in the United States of America For Dan. Without him, I would be a lesser person. It is the fate of those who toil at the lower employments of life, to be rather driven by the fear of evil, than attracted by the prospect of good; to be exposed to censure, without hope of praise; to be disgraced by miscarriage or punished for neglect, where success would have been without applause and diligence without reward. -
Byzantine Garden Culture
Byzantine Garden Culture Byzantine Garden Culture edited by Antony Littlewood, Henry Maguire, and Joachim Wolschke-Bulmahn Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection Washington, D.C. © 2002 Dumbarton Oaks Trustees for Harvard University Washington, D.C. All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Byzantine garden culture / edited by Antony Littlewood, Henry Maguire and Joachim Wolschke- Bulmahn. p. cm. Papers presented at a colloquium in November 1996 at Dumbarton Oaks. Includes bibliographical references (p. ) ISBN 0-88402-280-3 (alk. paper) 1. Gardens, Byzantine—Byzantine Empire—History—Congresses. 2. Byzantine Empire— Civilization—Congresses. I. Littlewood, Antony Robert. II. Maguire, Henry, 1943– III. Wolschke- Bulmahn, Joachim. SB457.547 .B97 2001 712'.09495—dc21 00-060020 To the memory of Robert Browning Contents Preface ix List of Abbreviations xi The Study of Byzantine Gardens: Some Questions and Observations from a Garden Historian 1 Joachim Wolschke-Bulmahn The Scholarship of Byzantine Gardens 13 Antony Littlewood Paradise Withdrawn 23 Henry Maguire Byzantine Monastic Horticulture: The Textual Evidence 37 Alice-Mary Talbot Wild Animals in the Byzantine Park 69 Nancy P. Sevcenko Byzantine Gardens and Horticulture in the Late Byzantine Period, 1204–1453: The Secular Sources 87 Costas N. Constantinides Theodore Hyrtakenos’ Description of the Garden of St. Anna and the Ekphrasis of Gardens 105 Mary-Lyon Dolezal and Maria Mavroudi Khpopoii?a: Garden Making and Garden Culture in the Geoponika 159 Robert Rodgers Herbs of the Field and Herbs of the Garden in Byzantine Medicinal Pharmacy 177 John Scarborough The Vienna Dioskorides and Anicia Juliana 189 Leslie Brubaker viii Contents Possible Future Directions 215 Antony Littlewood Bibliography 231 General Index 237 Index of Greek Words 260 Preface It is with great pleasure that we welcome the reader to this, the first volume ever put together on the subject of Byzantine gardens. -
School Transfer Proposed and Mrs
; Papa 10 RAHWAY NEWS-RECORD. Thurs., August 13, 1964 the first week and went to Wild- Mrs. Helen Rawling of Green- RA:;WAY PUBLIC LIBRARY wood and Cape May the sec-ville, and camped at her bunga- Lynn Warburton Married SEMINARY AVE ond week. Neighbors of the low at Rainbow Lake. Mrs Class of 1948s Boleys, Mrs. Helen Ruiz, and RAHWAY tt-d 8-T?- C Town Talk Rawling works for the Green- To Lt.^friHiam Brennan her son, Tom, took care of the ville Daily News. Boley's dog, Augie, while they Mr. and Mrs. William G. Raymond; Warburton, of Alex- ;;. $;.';.^.:-»: First Reunion By Florence Mershon Brennan of 940 Jaqiies Ave.,andria, Va. were away.. The Eggers family also visited have returned from Annapolis, Children of the city have been • • • the Rev. and Mrs. Charles Has- The ceremony was performed ' Plans Started Md., where they attended the in St. Andrew's Catholic Chapel busy with worthwhile projects Mr. and Mrs.- Henry L. Siner tie of Gaylord at their summer ::<••••<$*: A marriage of their son, Lt. At a meeting held on Thurs- during the past week. Three of 1196 Stone St. and Mrs. Sin- on the grounds of the 'United bungalow in Mackinac City for a (J. G.) William J. Brennan to day at the home of Mrs. Kitty carnivals have been held to er's mother, Mrs. Ellen Dan- States Naval Academy, and waji weekend. The Rev. Mr. Hastie Miss' Lynn Rae Warburton, followed by a reception at the Simmons Wight; 918 Stone St., raise funds for the Kennedy dignac of Elizabeth, gave a par- RAHWAY NEWS-RECORD is pastor of the Congregational daughter of Mr. -
Sierra Diablo Club Newsletter
BULLETIN PRESIDENT TREASURER EDITOR John Bachochin Loren Moore Mike Prero 15731 S. 4210 Rd., POB 1181 12659 Eckard Way Claremore, OK 74017 Roseville, CA 95678 Auburn,CA 95603 918-342-0710 916-783-6822 530-906-4705 No. 435 Dues due April 1st April 2021 by Mike Prero Some historians speculate that April Fools‘ Day dates back to 1582, when France switched from the Julian calendar to the Gregorian calendar, as called for by the Council of Trent in 1563. In the Julian Calen- dar, as in the Hindu calendar, the new year began with the spring equinox around April 1. People who were slow to get the news or failed to recognize that the start of the new year had moved to January 1 and continued to celebrate it during the last week of March through April 1 became the butt of jokes and hoaxes and were called ―April fools.‖ These pranks included having paper fish placed on their backs and being referred to as ―poisson d‘avril‖ (April fish), said to symbolize a young, easily caught fish and a gullible person. April Fools‘ Day spread throughout Britain during the 18th century. In Scotland, the tradition became a two-day event, starting with ―hunting the gowk,‖ in which people were sent on phony errands (gowk is a word for cuckoo bird, a symbol for fool) and followed by Tailie Day, which involved pranks played on peo- ple‘s derrieres, such as pinning fake tails or ―kick me‖ signs on them. In modern times, people have gone to great lengths to create elaborate April Fools‘ Day hoaxes.