From Fur to Felt Hats: the Hudson’S Bay Company and the Consumer Revolution in Britain, 1670-1730
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From Fur to Felt Hats: The Hudson’s Bay Company and the Consumer Revolution in Britain, 1670-1730 By Natalie Hawkins Thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate and Postdoctoral Studies in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the MA degree in History University of Ottawa © Natalie Hawkins, Ottawa, Canada, 2014 ii Abstract From Fur to Felt Hats: The Hudson’s Bay Company and the Consumer Revolution in Britain, 1670-1730 Natalie Hawkins Dr. Richard Connors 2014 This dissertation seeks to explore the wide reaching effects of the ‘Consumer Revolution of the Augustan Period’ (1680-1750) by examining the Hudson’s Bay Company from the perspective of the London metropole. During this period, newly imported and manufactured goods began flooding English markets. For the first time, members of the middling and lower sorts were able to afford those items which had previously been deemed ‘luxuries.’ One of these luxuries was the beaver felt hat, which had previously been restricted to the wealthy aristocracy and gentry because of its great cost. However, because of the HBC’s exports of beaver fur from Rupert’s Land making beaver widely available and therefore, less expensive, those outside of the privileged upper sorts were finally able to enjoy this commodity. Thus, the focus here will be on the furs leaving North America, specifically Hudson’s Bay, between 1670 and 1730, and consider the subsequent consumption of those furs by the British and European markets. This thesis examines English fashion, social, economic, and political history to understand the Hudson’s Bay Company and the Consumer Revolution, and their effects on one another. iii Acknowledgements I would like to heartily thank Dr. Richard Connors for supervising this thesis. This paper would not be what it is without his much appreciated guidance, interest, and time. I would also like to thank my wonderful husband, Robert, who has supported and encouraged me throughout my university career. Finally, a very special thank you goes out to Catholic Christian Outreach (CCO) for helping me find my true purpose in life. iv Table of Contents Abstract ............................................................................................................................. ii Acknowledgements .......................................................................................................... iii List of Tables...................................................................................................................... v List of Figures ................................................................................................................... vi INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................................. 1 CHAPTER 1 .................................................................................................................... 29 CHAPTER 2 .................................................................................................................... 65 CHAPTER 3 .................................................................................................................. 103 CONCLUSION .............................................................................................................. 140 Bibliography ................................................................................................................... 146 v List of Tables 2.1: Annual returns for beaver and other animal pelts ..................................................... 73 2.2: Average price per piece of beaver, 1682-1710 ..................................................... 1468 2.3: French exports of beaver from Canada, 1701-1730 .............................................. 1463 vi List of Figures 1.1: Woman with straw hat, c. 1697 ............................................................................ 1464 1.2: Cavalier style hat, c. 1630 ....................................................................................... 146 1.3: Puritan style hat, c. 1645 ........................................................................................... 57 1.4: Tricorne style hat with curled wig, c. 1725-1750 ..................................................... 59 1 INTRODUCTION The late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries experienced a sharp increase in the consumption of goods which British historians have entitled ‘the Consumer Revolution of the Augustan Period’ (1680-1750).1 During the early modern period an increase in long-distance, trans-oceanic shipping brought a number of new foods, textiles, and goods to the English populace.2 The expansion of trade spawned not only a consumer revolution but created whole new industries of shipbuilding, warehouse building, docks, shipping, and administration, amongst others. Manufacturing at home was quick to copy newly imported goods in order to stay financially afloat. Political action came in the form of restrictions on certain imported goods as well as increasing tariffs in order to fund the country’s constant military and naval endeavours for this was also an age of war. Eventually, the Consumer Revolution influenced all aspects of British life. From the very rich to the very poor, Britons were increasingly concerned with the consumption of these increasingly popular new goods. It was precisely into this consumerist world that the Hudson’s Bay Company [hereafter referred to as the HBC] was born. Moreover, what follows pays particular attention to these commercial and imperial processes as they played out in Britain and especially London in the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries. As one of the main cities of Europe, London naturally played a large role in the life of contemporary fashions and trends. When new, foreign products began appearing at the London dockyards, they were often quite expensive and rare, meaning that only 1 The discussion on the Consumer Revolution will continue in greater detail later in this chapter. 2 Although The Acts of Union took place in 1707, joining England and Scotland as ‘Great Britain,’ this thesis will continue to use the term ‘England’ to describe the country prior to its union with Scotland. 2 the wealthiest individuals could afford them. Of course, once these products began to be imported in massive quantities, their prices dropped and they became more widely available to the general public. This was the case for products like tea, sugar, spices, and, also, the beaver felt hat. When the felt hat first appeared in England in the sixteenth century, it was far too expensive and rare for anyone but the very wealthiest of people. Moreover, the felt hat was also expensive because European beaver fur sources were in short supply across Europe due to overharvesting. In the seventeenth century, however, a new source of beaver fur had been discovered in North America. Incorporated under a Royal Charter in 1670, the HBC began annually importing tens of thousands of furs from Rupert’s Land to fuel England’s demand for beaver pelts. This, in turn, allowed the felt hat to continue growing in popularity across Europe, particularly with the emerging middle class. By the end of the seventeenth century, the fashion for felt hats had become widespread, trickling down from the very wealthy to all but the very poorest individuals. London, therefore, was at the centre of the HBC’s fur trade monopoly. In recent years, the role of the London metropole has been largely neglected by historians in the story of the fur trade. With minimal research specifically on this subject, then, it has been necessary to pool the existing research on the HBC and the Consumer Revolution. By integrating this disparate research, this dissertation hopes to make a modest contribution to both of these subjects. Therefore, the purpose of this thesis is to explore the effects of the Consumer Revolution of the Augustan Period by examining the Hudson’s Bay Company fur trade from the London perspective. Due to limits on space, this thesis will focus on a short period, namely the HBC’s foundational period (1670-1730). Each of the following chapters is designed to evaluate the HBC’s position in the changing global economy of the late seventeenth and early eighteenth 3 centuries. By examining the HBC and the actions of its Committee Members, the full effects of the British Consumer Revolution on the fur trade may become better understood. The Consumer Revolution of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries brought about drastic changes in almost all levels of British society, politics, and economics. After the first wave of foreign goods to reach England was met with excitement and enthusiasm, merchants began importing foreign commodities in exponential quantities. Domestic manufacturing industries also prospered during this period by copying foreign goods and selling domestically produced copies. England was constantly at war throughout the period, and politicians were quick to seize opportunities to raise funds by taxing all of the new goods coming into and being created in the country.3 The continuous war efforts also helped to influence the Consumer Revolution by creating a boom in the labour market, which, in turn, provided individuals with more disposable income that could be spent on these new commodities. The Consumer Revolution, then, was a major process of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries as it penetrated into every aspect of British life. Central to our understanding of those processes is Neil McKendrick’s, John Brewer’s,