CITY GUIDE ®

SEPTEMBER 2018 FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

INSIDE: HOW TO GET 10% OFF YOUR SHOPPING Exclusively for foreign individual customers

COVER IMAGE BY

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

WHERE®CITY GUIDES AND MAPS High-quality Florence September 2018

traveler V A SI E S T E S E 15 FOCUS 52 SIGHTSEEING CASTELLO information SESTO the guide FIORENTINO

SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A 24 SHOPPING S A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E S VI VIA XXV APRILE

T A E VIA DEL CHIUSO DEI PAZZI G S E In the boutiques of the . DUPRÈ

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VIA ANDREA COSTA Giuggiù presents the VIA ANDREA COSTA

VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano new “Ciniglia” collection VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I VIA CARLO DEL GRECO Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

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AND FROM OCTOBER E F V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I a LUDOVICO& ANTONIO MUSEUMSVIALE GIOVANNI LAMI ACROSS THE WORLD s O BO V h I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I ENT A N D O M E N I io VIALE GIORGIOIN THE WASHINGTON CITY Chiesa A n MURATORI A S SAN FRANCESCO Preziosissimo VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Enjoy the city, starting from Sangue I A C MUGNONE U G I A V I FORTE DEI MARMI ALCANTI Giardino V i VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI OLOGN V I A F ty DEL DESERTO Stazione Firenze Statuto V PIAZZA INSIDE: HOW TO GET V. dell'Orticoltura V VIALE FRANCESCO REDI VIA FRANCESC G. B Villa il 10% OFF YOUR INI PIAZZUOL TOMMASO E I PIAZZA ver A Ventaglio y A I p C lac VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO SHOPPING Convento di San Francesco AL ALVA EDISON e V. Fritz Konig, among. ABBA the del Deserto VIALE DEI CADORNA V DELLE CURE i I. n the Exclusively for foreign XI EL fas O I L UIDO CA hion NIEVO Chiesa della c ca individual customers FE G arrie pital Madonna della Tosse DELIVER VALUABLE s a VIA FAENTINA V I A L AT d V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA VIA D esig n RFA NA CV I ALSO IN TURIN! s e C ig r its main landmark attractions. Discover one of the glamorous B VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI nature PIAZZA VIA ENICE CITY GUIDE VNES AIRN EI V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I N I V I D I ONACCI GIACOMO OR AI A L I ® PIAZZA I A A VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N ISOLA DI TESSERA PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI greatest contemporaryDELLA VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N L Parco San Giuliano V IA L E D E I M IL L E A V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O AV I D ELO V E VITTORIA O FIB VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O TURIN CITY GUIDE I A V I X A. GARBASSO G IROLI V IA M A R A G L IA N O ® FLORENCE CITY GUIDE E SC V VIA DELLE FORBICI EUCCI U . ARD MI DA ER LO VX I L TO VIA M AN L G TH resortVIA ANTON FRANCESCO in DONI and a legendary . PIAZZA ® A ROU VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI S TAT VIA DELLA CERNAIA A U LE GH ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE SCA I INFORMATION NS VIA FILIPPO PACINI VIA ANTONIO COCC O COR I SE V. A V GALILEO S M A V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O T sculptors, is celebrated MUGNONE N FERRARIS O VIA DEI CA VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica ELLI A LEON G GO I I R V Parrocchiale U TO Istituto Comprensivo Statale I V I A D E G VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM ONNA TOS I V H E 2018 Sacro Cuore V. G. B. AMICI I I M S PI VIALE ALESSANDROM VOLTA VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI A V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI HI LARGO NEW VIA DELLE CASCINE T OI V V. MAD RA OPE PONTE ROSSO NIN C A I G V. A. NICOLODI D S V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E L U PIETRO Golf Club Parco Di Firenze shopping destination. VIA XX SETTEMBRE OTTI HOT DATES V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E 8 E V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A NGHI CAPEI ELLI C . TURIN.WHEREITALIA.COM Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena A G OI R D A N O CIN VIA A. BERTANI L TBER 2018 COVER IMAGE BY by the with a AL N D VIA G. BAND E 2018 FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM TO THEIR GUESTS. VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON PA V. G. I PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI OUR FIRST ISSUE TREPORTI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO B O T T I C V. A. IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N IN THE CITY LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T This month’s round-up of art RE DI SAN EOL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O T A R N O A MARTIRI N P IACOPINO V. S . PIAZZA E SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS S major retrospective NOBILI I SIGHT A DELLE VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei SEE V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIA V AI M GIOVANNI RDO T ING | G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO Welcome to MU VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA FOIBE SEUM A V IA C A S S IA S | I LE ANTONELLI Welcome SHO V I P PING | DI VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO NI VIA D. MA NG | Giardino FILIPP ENTE V AI A S FARDELLA ALL THE ALLURE RTAINM della Fortezza V AI L E D E MI LI L E ELL ENT VI TELFIDA the Art City | M X A D A C C I OLI DI TORREARSA APS O OF PIEDMONT P I H exhibitions, music and folklore. V. G. MARCONI IR URNO to LUXURY TOP BRANDS O U NT S 26 V I A D E L T S C E R ELLIN Turin A ELLATE VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO T D’AO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA C A P P PRAT IA NINO BIXIO VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE COVER BY ROZZI V VIA CAS

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M G E C T S V. DELLA RONDINELLA E I I N N VIALE GIUSEP N T A MAGGIORE N A FISOLA A S O T CA N L A CAL LE LA S TA LE DE RGA A T LLA C DEI L N N A ' della Misericordia HI VR E O S ES AN B T A ERI I M O T E A A I N A G C H L D A I L E N O N A E C P E R L O O N T N E L N TE F G L E E ' L A AV A L E RA C R C Ò L Sant'Elena N A . ER L Z E I S U G SACCA S N N O A A A P C I San Gerardo Sant'Eufemia . A F A N Zitelle N C E Giudecca Palanca Le Zitelle L E 'E CAMPIELLO C A T SAN BIAGIO F O L L AN N N L L S SAN CATALDO D E E E A SAN MARZIALE CAMPIELLO A A C M E L Teatro Verde A AL L R I S SAN GERARDO N T C N V A E A A T S A I R O N T Z A Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido ' E U A F E M N T R I A E E CA I LL M E C A V ON D I ALLE VE N A RT O R I TE FO F V NDA Parco delle I MEN A TA P L ONT O E E I PI Rimembranze CCO L LO I O V O G '

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CALLE M GIUSTINA Battistero R U I I GO LL CONFRATERNITA O A Ponte EL CA Museo dell'Opera CA G E D Cattedrale di D F A SAN STIN UR CA . D SA CA D LL P E SANTA CROCE LI O A N FONDAM G E ALL PE N S L GI Maggiore CAMPO L GIAZ I A E CORTE P A CAMPO O CAMPO R D I O AL ZO CORTE VA A AR O ZZ IZ LLE R A

Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, ZEN I N di Rialto ZA TREVISAN N N M O RI RDON CAMPO A E EN G I V E SAN APONAL DEL NI Pergola O A O I D SAN BORTOLOMIO C DELLA CELESTIA I M TA F R T C CA L

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O I I E A L C S O E NI DEL P CAMPO E R L di San Giovanni People Mover Venezia AN PIAZZALE ROMA X ESI V LE N O M D di Santa Maria del Fiore Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by T Santa Maria del Fiore LLE TI O AR I A O A Oratorio Di R CAMPO A N ’ M N TO E L T I da TolentinoA E À C D RA CALL SAN LIO D L L RO M L Rialto N O O N E L O A T O A O C O I E I L V CAMPIELLO CORTE S I N C. CAMPIELLO A OR M CIM IS CA M LEN SAN POLO L V. DEL TREBBIO several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and LAV R TARI A LL CAMPO E D SANTA MARIA RI

DORI S E A San Silvestro I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E D A D DEL MORION C VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA Tempio Maggiore DEL GIGNOR E NUOVA E L DA RIO TERÀ SANT'AN DEI OMBAS IZAD D B L SALIZAD E E DE E . RU RA SI FORMOSA ONDULME E A SANT TO I N B L C E F A L N A E A GIU L DOLER I S P FONDAMENTA San Lorenzo S CORTE T SAN SILVESTRO L T I MELONI E C A L INA E L R . N LIO D CI D L FO C E E Santommaso L L I D D LU DEI PRETI . A Guardi. www.gallerieaccademia.it CAMPO AL GA A D DE LA L Z F. F. C AP L C CA C I C . C

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change the wayto visit a city. Trya new experience to enjoy M O I C IA A SAN O O D A PE O A o della ConsolazioneI O LLE D E A VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI DEI E CORTE Z IZ C SA HI INOTTO N O ND E C A M Antinori V LV ON A PIN BEM CORTE CA M AD ER 6 7 A ADO S LE BA DO The first ever, it was established in 1516 in the sestiere of Cannaregio. O EN CALLE SAN L L R RUBBI NT DE EN LORENZO L R CAMPO TA DE M N A S.Silvestro LICINI A LLE E E A VIA DI MELEGNANO your visit,ER following your rhythm and interests. Become B O CA T EL T GUGLIELMO LL CAMPIELLO A O TO A D D D V. B. FRANCESCHINI SAN ROCCO ANT’ CA S E Palazzo S R V. CAMPANELLA FONDAMENTA FABBRICA TABACCHI E SA QUERINI Ognissanti A Teatro L A L A VIALE ETRURIA SAL CELLANA VIA DEL MEZZETTA San Giovanni O E S E GATE S Its magical, cocoon-like atmosphere brings to mind Sheakespeare’s N CO AL C L STAMPALIA RU N N A L MUS S I I IZA C G C L L I LE DE LE GA EV A the key-player of your time and discover a completely O FIESOLA O CASTELLO DA CA Querini SC S MA L M Chiesa C R Carlo Goldoni A R VIALE ETRURIA DE LA C San Salvador E C R R C E di Malta S C A E G R E L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A . AN PANTA N N AL CORTE DEL i ZARI MEZ S L C R V. FRA' SARPI play ‘The Merchant of Venice’. Palazzo A o I NZ L O I LIAN S CORTE U A C L L A L A L A E SA LE San D O U ALBI F CORTE C L - Reg. Trib. Milano No. 453, July 19 2010 Chiesa dei E L Stampalia O F O E O TEATRO R E Z B E P unknown Milan in a innovative and immersive way. E E A D T L C R FRUTARIOLI D P T zo V. DELL'ORIUOLO E L ALBA I N I I CO I CORTE DELLE GATE E IETTI VIA SANT'EGIDIO LON EA A L Querini-Dubois E A LE CCA CA T S PIT Printed by Graphicscalve L LO 24020 Vilminore di Scalve (Bergamo). A CA L’ AL e L SA IERI DE A R E AL AN C ELLO C a NUOVA LE OBERDAN T Palazzo L NE D BA A d L C CORTE DEL CALL La Biennale di Venezia IL A di San E L l E LION ZO appetite in several top hotels. E The “old” bridge is one of the L LE v E CORTE N I BIA L n E R L I DEI FURLANI L LLE L E R a CA LO VIA PIETRO COLLETTA BON E POZZO ROVERSO CAMPIELLO VIA A 10 CAMPO a G C CA dor LU ZORZI A P C C D C SC issuu.com/where-italia S STR r TRAMONTIN CA I A CALLE DEI P C AVA IS .D T O ZADA RÀ DEI PENS Grimani R A ELLO P LI F Santi Michele EL Educational Arsenale E LU A DUE POZZI PIAZZA E DI I CO N LL S I CAMPOIELLO D VIA G. LEOPARDI SAN TOMÀ G MA LLE L T ET PR OMA V DIREZIONE PORTO MARITTIMO LL A AG RON I Arsenale di Venezia L E CH AS l M DE C RIO TE PI SA C P O REME R a NI I E DEI FA C IA AR CALLE DE LA A ETI CA A L .DE L CO L VIA TITO SPERI PI Rialto Bridge CALLE BAS ZA EL E FO n E LE AL L RA C. R D LA Paolino CALL C a E D I E L FRATERNA A BA A S L C

E E C EGO C B I P DE N C C LO ANSan Giuliano D AL V.CANONICA San Tomà BR IGN A CAL ALL T G L V The oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand DAMENT L ZEN E Z C. N 4 e Gaetano L GA I OL U EL MAGAZE L E E CR E I LIA CORTE CALLE D I ONA VIA GIOVANNI ANTONIO DOSIO E R SCU D DE T DEL San LucaCAMPIELLO EL MA N San Giovanni Novo E Rio dei Tolentini San Beneto E D DEL FORNO L OS C CAMPO O San Pantalon LL TIA B La Biennale di Venezia IA A DELLA D IN V A AI CA A T C AL D S N Canal, it is lined on both sides by shops. ERA Sant'Angelo I A V I A L U C A L A N D U C C I R SAN ZUANE R ARI CHIESA E S R OSUE' CA L SM DI SAN L Giardino delle Vergini CA O AG LE CORTE E A L’ T O NOVO DE I V N TA N MART O 11 D CR FOND EN I VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO H Teatro alle Tese N 4 CAMPO R A LL E CI E Palazzo CORTE GRAGOLINA A NDAM SA O Palazzo I E AME T EDI M S FO LIZA V. C S S LEO CO E A DEL C R DA S R V. DEI CORSI I NTA T P V I A P I S A N A P A INA SA BONIZZI SAN BENETO A . A L CAMPO R L’ O CALLE AD PI TT VO A G RZ E A A RIO NUOVO N GO N DE SC VIA DEI TOSINGHI A AGUSEI L I A FORNO C N T E I U ARIA CALLE DEL FIGHER O NTON L P E V. DEL CAMPIDOGLIO HIE I VIA DELLE OCHE ARI O N Rio de le Ve DE Z Giustinian CAL SAN PANTALON Nervi IN VIA DELLA SPADA N VECCHIO NA D D I T 11 CAMPO LD L RO T S ZIOLA R San Giorgio D O E G A B O R G O FONDAMENTA RIZZI O SESTIERE I RCO E L B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I A VI GA R O G EL RA D G P N AN M . CO R NI N E S Persico MANIN C. E BRUN Scattolin M C C T E NN L I A RS I O RGA L ' V Palazzo Fortuny O CAL DI SAN MARCO EA Z E LE C L R dei Greci A ATER Z D rgini ’ A C. CAMPO A O C I L E USERI ALLE LA I Canale delle Fondamenta Nuove Palazzo Fortuny E TR N P D C ON LA CERTOSA SALVI L A F TR R N

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CAMPIELLO RT M V N SANTA CAMPO L A F A D OS DE I E . SA L CA A Bacino A O R L I D - Reg. Trib. Milano No. 453, July 19 2010 LE San Giovanni Battista Bacino Stazione Marittima NE N ARSENALOTTI Santa Margherita ONDAMENTA E LE TERC C EL CAL DI ZZE VE E V EGHE della Pietà L VIA Museo NT DE LA FE 2 L O DEI L F CROSERA A DA S L A V E E T RON SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO Ponte D DEI MARGHERITA D. LE A IER L C O CALL D Direttore Responsabile: Andrea Jarach. [email protected] - www.wheremilan.com. Where Italia Srl, iscritto al ROC n. del settembre 20182 14 - 2010 Editore: Where Italia srl. SupplementoVenice di Where Peggy Guggenheim Collection AL A Orseolo IN I San Michele a C VIDA CAMPO RI in Bragora SQUELINI SAN MARCO ET La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale . VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO a ZZE E L A E F

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A O N D PIAZZA CO C a GH D Amerigo Vespucci T E ALL E A M R L Palazzo RRO L PIAZZA SAN MARCO Palazzo Ducale AL L LLE BERNARDO L EGHE E CA A C E N VI 15 5 L T LE G CA L E T CA O A A I R I VA D E G L I S C H I AV O N I N L LE DE A R EL 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American OT O P. GAETANO DEI TE undisputed symbols of Florence. D L NI S E N A L E LE C ORT GLI SCHIAVONI A VI l E ES E DRIO LA CHIES R MU LL C E PIAZZA A CA CA R E SEN LO D O I V A D E L' A Grassi FO U CARMINI L R C RA LE D C LL L 6 U IATI H E AL 3 ARD G EI A

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I L CAL ARA A O T ’ M LE A A E E L’AR E VIA DEGLI STROZZI LL SANTA R CA L LE A DELLA L C N I C A LA V. SPEZIALI Rio del Carmini L D INT AN S ZERE E L VE 7 VIA DEL MORO C E VIA CORSO . r San Samuele A U DE A P PRIMORIN CA T CA BORGO DEGLI ALBIZI SALVEMINI R Correr VID Ca' Rezzonico O A RG Q NTONIO SCIALOJ I I T A ELLO C AMENTA BR A R NAL a Teatro la Fenice RAME CONT N ET E ’ ST T AL FONDAMENTA E’ A ND L D CAMPO IS COR A DE CAMPO C AMO LL E S. Samuele T R Santa Maria I AS A H P. SAN E CAMPIELLO MO A Canale Scomenzera UNTIL MAY 31 2018 LE SAL EI FEDERIGH FO n S. Zaccaria (Pieta') O P A L 13 L C. N DE A C FREE S I C A C A VIA PIETRAPIANA LA T SANTO STEFANO A I A E ZI DEI CALEGHERI D E A

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C CA E L R V AMO PIER VETTORI DE D ZE O O LA A Santa Maria della Salute S TANA . M A A San Moisè N S E San Barnaba e FONDAMENTA F O N L PIER R V I A P I S A N A Z E NDAM D A M E N TA T Simply sign in to get your free code: CAMPO L Chiesa di San Pietro a Monticelli C. Z San Maurizio T R I O EL D E L L E O C O E MOLO SAN MARCO A TA N O DEI FORNI R R A CHI E R A R D I N I Palazzo Loredan F A L Generally referred as ‘La Salute’ this jewel of 17th-centuryI baroque S H B L ARTIRI C C Palazzo GH G A L A R N O LON LLO A SAN MOISE’ O C A CORTE L C MPIE T A C A Loggia CA RO N F E CC C . L A A A VIA BORGO LA CROCE ON getmycode.opencitymilan.com/registerA M E N L L P. DEGLI

D A IA A I L N ARZO L L N MICHIEL M V N L PO MAGGIORE OR II L O D E SE F O L C XX C V L LO’ A O RIE A LLE R DAMENT DE L I 11 architecture proudly stands at an important point, almost opposite E RGA E A A ALLE L ER C CA P. DEI E I E L CH R C E L S ICO L L RA A Rio San Moise V. GIORDANO BRU A LE CALL Arsenale E A CAMPO T A L B D F A D N L O C R Santa Maria L D O R RE E R Z or scan the following QRcode E F L A DEGLI L A E V V AN Strozzi LL'AFFRICO E O I T I DEL POPOLO S P RI E L Z D Museo Storico Navale di Venezia E R S the Piazza san Marco, where the Grand Canal empties the Lagoon. LLE R del Pesce A P L STROZZI

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CALLE DI CA’ MATTA O FOND. SAN GIOACC ST CA VIA DELLA VIGNA NUOVA A A E ZE F I VI N O 2 V E LUNGA SAN BARNA LE D Designed by Longhena, it was consutucted to honor the Virgin Mary R L L Open Tour Milan A L SANTA MARIA L L Angelo CAMPO GIU T di Paola A SE C PE L S A N T ' A N N VI San Nicolò C A I V R A E CAMPO DE F O N D A M E N TA I C A C DRIO IL DEL GIGLIO L I EMIA BASTIAN STRIN EL C A F L G E CORTE A ALL E L U E R for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. Raffaele CIMITERO San Vidal L VIA DELL'ANCONELLA A VIA DEGLI ANSELMI SAN S L L DE T DE IM I C P. DEI C dei Mendicoli E L L INF T E PISANI O A Di San Bartolomeo

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SAN SEBASTIAN Corner L N Ca' Giustinian Giardini della Biennale E RDI CIOMPI O L L PIAZZA PIER T a Monte Oliveto

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G T AI MAGAZZINI C O N E P O A IETR O L D L C O V I Ca’Granda PI VIA DEL GUARLONE E TA D. ’ 9 CALLE D O N L Porta alla Croce L L TA S Loggia dell’ C A A Murano I L Accademia A A M V I A M A S O L I N O E L R E L A R A San Sebastiano O SA I C A P E . E 180418 SM PE2018 Where MAP - ANTA 86x211 copia.pdf 1 18/04/18 12:10 P. LORENZO V. V. DA BISTICC L E www.opencitymilan.com [email protected] Tel +39 02 83 123 903 IA C A ZIN TT I L ILIO S S R N N AN BA E NA D S T E N Murano, one of the three small islands of the CALLEVenetian arcipelago, IO V P. PIETRO Palazzo A A DELLA

R FF G I S IC SEB Palazzo S ALI Ponte E C 8 R O ZADA S CAMPO C I . L DELLA V P A SU E Arte della Lana E AN BESA NT Pisani O S LUNGARNO SODERINI DELLA CARITÀ O N N is famous throught the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI A S AS FRA' PAOLO SARPI IA D E A DORSODURO L G dell'Accademia3 N R AZ

I GI I O L B GHIBERTI IT O E VIA DEL PIAGGIONE A San Carlo O C CALLE DE LA CHIESA A E N D B T FO Santa Maria R I VA D E I S E T T E M A R T I R I L Chiesa di Ognissanti P . NDAM Gritti N Palazzo EM I I V I A S C I P I O N E A M M I R A T O O

AN D O ANNIGONI ENT workshops still display glassmakers at work). Don’t miss the Glass A R SA CO EP

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CAMPO R A 10 E PIAZZA M PIAZZA C I Museum at Palazzo Giustinian. T RA L A C E C O M A R I N I dei Lombardi M ON T FO S S A Palazzo Corsini SAN BESAGIO dell'Accademia 12 NDA PPE V A MENTA O O FEDERIGA Palazzo T delle ND SAL L D I Porta San Frediano UTE O V I A D I M O N T E O L I V E T O N O B CAMPO C Fiorentina FOND. DE F FRANCESCA O CA L LA TEL L A Mercato di F E DEL M VIA GHIBELLINA PIST Genovese DELLA L DEI CERCHI O Collezione Peggy L R OGN C. C M I 13 D SAN E COR SALUTE O IS I A T I D C al Parione 15 R NTI San Trovaso 'AGN Museo A T E Poste Guggenheim A E DE CAMPO DI Ponte VI ESE N VIA S. ONOFRIO Punta della Dogana E L ENTA SAN GIUSEPPE E I IA PEL IES P LE F C SAN VIO ZANO CALL T CESARE BECCARIA ON NI ALLE I E DEL BASTION Sant'Ambrogio I D A M T @WhereFlorence

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FODAMENTA ZATTERE AL PONTE LONGO TA D A V EL O San Giuseppe BORGO SAN FREDIANO ARIN LUNGARNO CORSINI Z CAVALCAVIA L BON CAMPO A CH del Birthplace of the lagoon, one a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, ANO Basilica di alla Carraia O R O N G I G L E D A I V L I TI E San Gregorio IN SAN TROVASO SC R SA

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OND ND RÀ FO A R F E IN I della Salute BRAGAD CAMPO PO GIUSE V I A V I N C E N Z O G I O B E R T I N E C A O Palazzo Bartolini ER VIA PORTA ROSSA VIA DELLA CONDOTTA TA FERD E ENI N IS NI and two medieval churches. IS M O T VIA VIGNA VECCHIA CUM NI V ATE P EN À C SA NT A RR O A E TE SAN ISEPO ' T M ON RIO L RÀ T I E N N T VI A VINCENZO CHIARUGI N A A Palazzo RIO B O SA Basilica di I RR E D TA I S R DO A DEL P M SA FON LU I

A FON P SOR DA R 15 E Salinbeni N I RE A Ca' Rezzonico LL O E INANDO DEL V I A P I S A N A V O D CA C 16 E F E TE TE M Santa Maria A L A A L DO

A E CAP AT U i O ES RT R L M Davanzati VIA N 16 V I A R L N O V. D. VENEZIANO P Z Chiesa SA Loggia del U LI Giardini E PA L E X X I V ZADA DE E À Z Z G Z C n V del Rosario PIAZZA I L TA M A G G I N Sant’Agnese FORN O S CALL A I PIAZZA Burano N I O N O I A V T'A i TAFORNAC D T N O LON D Chiesa di VIA DI MONTE OLIVETO A L VC.PANICO ME Chiesa AN CAL E E ® E G LE V CAMPO DI D A S EL NAVARO V. DEL d LLA F LLA VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO I The island of Burano is famous for its artisanal lace work and Chiesa di Santa Maria L I L SANT'AGNESE A RI O TERR À SAN VI O LA BURELLA A San Giorgio Maggiore O BRA VIA L r E R IN Porcellino Cattolica Parrocchiale FON VIA DEI PEP

VIA PIERO DI COSIMO PA A FOND DI SAN FIRENZE C I D V. CALIMARUZZA AM T G IS S I della Visitazione EN N a N TA ORN particular kind of biscuit. Don’t miss the Lace Museum. P ZAT E S. Giorgio E A T M i S. Frediano D E E PIAZZA RE A DE R S Santi AI GESUA D V IA D E L V I A G H I B E L L I N A OL LEON N I A B EL L C AS PIAZZA T G S. Maria Degli Angeli I O PIAZZA FO BI VIA DELL'ANGUILLARA E M L IERI RA E No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Giudecca Hilton Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the informationpublisher in this cannot map, the accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. C AR LE T

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A VIA DE V C Spirito Santo A combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent R BORGO SAN FREDIANO F IC O FONDAMENTA C Croci sso a Monticelli Ferragamo di San Firenze I D Pavilion IA FIO AC ORTA DAIO Chiesa Giudecca Hilton V VIA GIACOMO ZANELLA ZATTERE C I V.D. A R ISOLA DI IA . H I ALBERTI N collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. P D OVANNI DA M D. I L VIA PISANA P U O C I E E F A LL'A N T V. Spirito Santo O R della P VIA DEI SANTI APOSTOLI N The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per L VAPORETTO Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo AR N VIA S. GIOVANNI Japan E LUNGARNO GUCCIARDINI B IAV V I A A R E T I N A CALLE DE LA SA SAN GIORGIO G SACCA B C . D E L C A R S O S DA O NGUILLARA E DE FOND Pavilion Archivio di Stato A CA L I M museum site. Full price ticket: 24 euros. E B LL M BORGO DEI GRECI

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M E C C T S ENTA SAN BIAGIO I I VIA C N V. N A Like us on MAGGIORE PIAZZA FISOLA O T CA L N E CALLE LE LA A C Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo DCorrer,E Museo RG A DE T I NTA LLA CHIESA I L NTA SAN GIOVANNI LA AVRANE ' S VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO E Loggia RI I N O T T O A Santi Apostoli DEI SALTERELLI H L LUNGARNO DEGLI ACCIA A Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca A N PONTE R A L E C L E C SA O N D A M E T' L N F H T LA E V A E An teatro Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, V I IA R C A L L E G E N E R BELLOSGUARDO AS Ò dei Lanzi A C R TI L VIA CORNO NERI A . Sant'Elena e Biagio Z L CI

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Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History. M C N A R O VIALE ’ VIA TIS V BORGO ALLEG A S A VIA DELL’ORTO Santa Trinita L VI Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido Suggestions for trips outside Eight starred restaurants for BORGO DELLA STELLA FI BORGO SANTO SPIRITO VIN V IA D IS A N G IU S E P P E R VIA DEI GEPP I L WHERE VENICE MAP - Editore: Where Italia srl. Supplemento di Where Venice - Reg. Trib. Milano No. 174, 28 June 2016 - Where Italia Srl, iscritto al ROC n. 20182 del 14 settembre 2010 - Direttore Responsabile: Andrea Jarach. [email protected] - www.where-venice.com. All rights reserved. Original Map: Urban le (www.urban le.org). Where Italia srl, via E. Biondi 1, 20154 Milano (Italy) © 2017. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. OLI F CAL IE Palazzo E EGIA Y LE PIAZZA Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it V No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Printed by Lazzati Industria Gra caCONVER srl - Casorate Sempione (VA). WHERE® magazine and WHERE® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. D . U TI RI I I

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FOND . 10119 12 Ò Santa Maria del Carmine A MAFFIA V Rio del Ponte Lungo L VIA DEI SAPONAI C VIA SANT’AGOSTINO I ALLE ORTI O LO SP VIA E C LATI VIA DI ROCCA TEDAL DA M I L A N T O U R S A N D S I G H T S E E I N G Hop On Hop Off Tour V VIA DEI VAGELLAI I N DE Hundertwasser' Garden N I V I A D E I M A L C O N T E N T I I Parrocchiale S. Antonino A Bellariva V AI Follow us on Instagram VIA DEL LEONE PIAZZA CANAL CRUISES AND DAY TRIPS BY BUS on panoramic open-topped red double decker buses INGHETTI AN SI A L O D N E M A 3 lines with 40 stops and multi-lingual commentary S RO VIA PIAGENTINA C VIA ALESSIO BALDOVINETTI DEI GIUDICI NC Your personal travel assistant now in the best hotels in Milan! PI VI A D EI BARBADORI A [email protected] www.milano.city-sightseeing.it RA Basilica di Santo Spirito C O R P I R O V. DEI VELLUTINI E IE N PIAZZA VIA V. MILAN OFFICES OPEN EVERYI DAY at LUNGARNO GENERALE DIAZ MALENCHINI, A. MAGLIAB L IV E G ZANI VIAGGI - MILANO B S O D E I T I N T O R I C I R O M DUOMO and CASTELLOV SQUARES PIAZZA TOSCANELLA MENTANA N A CITY CENTER: Largo Cairoli, 18 I V. DUCCIO BUONINSEGNA VIA IA E ALE N City Tours • Day Trips • R VIA DI SCANDICCI by AutostradaleViaggi D V I A A R N O L F O O (M1 Cairoli) V I M E BARDI EI MA V NO O CENTRAL STATION: Ground level VIA Biblioteca Nazionale C Shopping Outlets • Ticket Desk IA D I I O TORQUATO TASSO D V V I A A R E T I N A D (M2-M3 Centrale) O C FREE CITY HOTEL INFO FREE Choose from over 10 proposals every day PIAZZA G I N V Giardini di Bellariva A Q +39 02 867131 www.livemilano.com EI VE . Centrale di Firenze DELL U CALLS GUIDE & SERVICES INTERNET OSPIZ SPR L E SANTA FELICITA PIAZZA DI SANTA C T Take advantage of [email protected] INI EN E R Unlimited local Start exploring Find out hotel LL' Santi Vito e Modesto A R E @where_florence VIA C RD O E D to satisfy any need. and untold creativity. VIA DELLA CHIESA L MARIA SOPR'ARNO IA and international calls information unlimited connection VIA D'ARDIGLIONE LO the city by ON LINE RESERVATIONS 48hours LU ONE ETA The only "all inclusive" City Pass I A A R N O V www.zaniviaggi.com - www.livemilano.com Get all Milan top attractions while saving V PIAZZA O TI B I V . M . E R both time and money L U N G A R N O D E L L E G R A Z I E www.lookmi-tours.com N The best for less V I A T R I P O L I I N www.themilanpass.com A A SANTO SPIRITO +39.02.30089900 [email protected] PRO VIA DELLA BELLARIVA I VIA DE' GUICCIA Chiesa PIAZZA DEI V IA QUINTIN O SELLA V I A F R A N C E S C O D U O D O VIA DEL CAMPUCCIO PIAZZA PIAVE V I A C San Felicita V I A CAVALLEGGERI SDRU ANELL FRANCESCO DE SANC V I A E N R I C O D E N I C O L A COS LUNG LUNGARNO DELLA ZECCA VECCHIA DEL MADONNONE C D I A G A V IA D E L F IL A R E T E

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MORE AT PAGE 50 Top in town MAP PAGES 62-63 SAN MINIATO AL MONTE 1 4 2 11 The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10

MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by 6 3 8 13 Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11

SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12 SHUTTERSTOCK SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, PHOTOS © the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, DUOMO AND CUPOLA CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the of statues of Renaissance origin, representing fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used The symbol of wealth and power, the building Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13 in Florence was the largest Christian church Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main one of the most important sculptural cycles in the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. was inhabited by the Medici, then by the in the world. Today the religious building, the components of the complex of Santa Maria the world. The most famous is certainly At the end of the 16th century, however, Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, SANTO SPIRITO official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green Michelangelo’s (this is a copy, whereas when it became the “noble” zone of the city, by the Savoy family. The original architecture A point of reference of the Augustinian order. Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, the original is conserved in the Galleria the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the The church has given its name to the entire dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by dell’Accademia). 4 and they have been there uninterruptedly surname of its first owner. The building is located surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, to this day. 6 Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI Gardens are one of the most important examples the church was the last great project by Filippo is a symbol known all over the world. 1 of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3 One of the most famous museums in the world CORRIDOIO VASARIANO of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8 Brunelleschi. 14 on account of its extraordinary collections of The is a raised walkway BATTISTERO ancient sculptures and paintings (from the connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. SAN LORENZO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is AND PALAZZO VECCHIO Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to This is the most famous and appreciated One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, characterised by an octagonal plan, lined This is the central square of Florence, the seat occupies the first and second floors of the large which is at the beginning of the second panoramic point in Florence, with its views according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, with a dome of eight segments, covered by of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing building erected between 1560 and 1580 corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches seen all over the world in million of postcards the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5 along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, and reproductions. The design of the square Its current appearance, however, is the result of with white marble from Carrara and green Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital the last major reconstruction work that took marble from Prato, characteristics of the Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della PONTE VECCHIO 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle The official date of foundation of the current Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Medici and under the direction of the great period. 2 Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire 1000 paintings. 7 Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9 architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15

6 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 7 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES SEPTEMBER

SEPTEMBER

PERFORMANCE ART

21 20 Whether it’s discovering the events SEPTEMBER JANUARY celebrating Italian traditions, art and music 2018 2019 or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you THE BODY OF MARINA this month’s unmissable dates. , one of the most lively locations on the city’s cultural scene, devotes an important exhibition to famous and controversial performer Marina Abramović, renowned for her often extreme performances, in which she tests the limits of her own body to the point of risking its very integrity. The exhibition brings together around 100 works by the artist, offering an overview of the best known creations of her career, from the 1960s to the 2000s, through videos, photographs, paintings, objects, installations and, above all, live reruns of her famous performances by a group of performers specifically selected and trained for the exhibition.

Marina Abramović. The Cleaner Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza Strozzi www.palazzostrozzi.org #MarinaFlorence

Marina Abramović, Artist Portrait with a Candle from the series “Places of Power” (2013). Courtesy of the Marina Abramović Archive © Marina Abramović by SIAE 2018. Photo © Marco Anelli.

Top: Marina Abramović/Ulay, Imponderabilia 1977, ½” video transferred to digital video (b/w, sound), 50:25 min. Amsterdam, LIMA Foundation, MAC/2017/038 Marina Abramović by SIAE 2018.

Right: Marina Abramović, The Artist is Present 2010, 7-channel video installation (6 x 16:9 projections, 1 monitor: color, no sound), Grid: 6 hours/ CAM 3: 71 x 7 Hour files. New York, Abramovic LLC, MAC/2017/071. Photo © Marco Anelli. Courtesy of the Marina Abramović Archives. Marina

Abramović by SIAE 2018. PHOTO 2010 © MARCO ANELLI

8 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 9 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES SEPTEMBER MUSIC TRADITION FESTIVAL

THE NIGHT OF BENEATH THE STARS OF JAZZ THE LANTERNS ►In the cool district of Oltrarno, the rive ▼ The origins of this much gauche of Florence, a Festival with an 7 loved feast date back to the unusual formula: not a festival of concerts SEPTEMBER 17th century, when in order with “traditional” stages, but music brought 5 9 right to the people using different locations, to celebrate the Nativity of the Madonna in the Basilica della Santissima SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER from historic clubs to fashionable venues, Annunziata the many people who had come to premises that do not usually host live into the city with their families from the music or else present other genres, to the streets, churches, squares, gardens surrounding countryside lit up the itinerary and museums. The Fringe occupies unusual spaces with events of great scenic with lanterns of various kinds, known as charm, providing an innovative acoustic experience. The genre? Experimental, “rificolone”, hung from the top of sticks, reeds originally produced jazz. or poles. Over time the lanterns have changed Firenze Jazz Fringe Festival 2018 their appearance and today they depict all Oltrarno, various locations kinds of things: watermelon slices, crescent www.fjff.it SHUTTERSTOCK.COM 27 28 moons, lights, multi-coloured suns. The feast commences at 8pm in Piazza Santa Felicita, SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER PHOTO © passes through Piazza della Signoria with the procession called the Corteo delle Rificolone SAN MINIATO, ECHOES OF THE ORIENT and arrives in Piazza Santissima Annunziata for ▲ Original, spiritual sounds, in the splendid setting of one of the most beautiful Florentine the final festival with music and the awarding Basilicas: the concert by the Orchestra della Toscana – included among the events of a prize to the most beautiful rificolona. celebrating the thousand-year anniversary of the Basilica of San Miniato al Monte – reaffirms Festa della Rificolona the bond between San Miniato and Armenia, paying homage to the Florentine protomartyr Historic Centre - Piazza della Santissima Annunziata St. Minias, who was born in Armenia. Pages from the work by the great contemporary composer Tigran Mansurian, Confessing with Faith for viola and four voices, will be performed, alongside new compositions commissioned from him by the Abbey, and will be recorded live as an absolute world première, with the collaboration of renowned German record company ECM.

Concert for the thousand years of San Miniato al Monte Tigran Mansurian, Confessing with Faith 9pm Basilica di San Miniato al Monte, Via delle Porte Sante, 34 millenario.sanminiatoalmonte.it

FOLKLORE

OPERA NEW WINE ENTERS THE CITY ►The arrival of the “Carro Matto” (literally the ROMANTIC VIOLETTA “Crazy Wagon”) in the city and the blessing of the Chianti wine is one of the great traditions IN THE POCKET VERSION of Renaissance Florence. The “Carro Matto” is The beautiful courtesan Violetta falls in love with young 29 a genuine masterpiece of engineering, with 13 Alfredo Germont and decides to turn her life around. But around 2000 fragile fiaschi (the classic Tuscan SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER Alfredo’s family intervenes, and the idyllic love story ends blown-glass bottles, protected by straw) stacked in tragedy. This is the story of La Traviata, the masterpiece in a pyramid in a miraculous balancing act. In the afternoon of the of Verdian melodrama, presented here in an enchanting reduced version last Saturday of September it enters Florence hauled by oxen of the accompanied by a dance troupe. The location is one of the most fascinating in Chianina breed, there follows the blessing of the wine in the square the centre of Florence, , beside Ponte Vecchio: one of of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and its subsequent the oldest churches of the historic centre of Florence, with a unique position, transferring – escorted by the Historic Procession – to Piazza della extraordinary acoustics and magnificent environment that make it a perfect Signoria for a feast with flag-wavers. setting to host classical music and opera performances. Carro Matto DAMIANO VERDIANI La Traviata - Reduced opera with ballet. 13 September, 8.30pm From 3.30pm procession through the streets of the centre Auditorium Santo Stefano al Ponte, Piazza Santo Stefano, 5. www.classictic.com from Piazza del Duomo to Piazza della Signoria PHOTO ©

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Florentine craftsmanship has known how to focus on the tradition and the excellent features of the territory, also retaining – in addition to its high quality – the mark of history and people. That is why, thanks to the blending of innovative techniques and traditional know-how, today it still remains one of the most appreciated in the world. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

Chiara Zaccarelli Travel Editor Where® Italia

hat do Leonardo, Michelangelo, Botticelli and Donatello have in common? They were all born in Tuscany, a land of artists and artisans, of creative, clever people, with a marked tradition of manual skills; so it is no surprise that still today Tuscany is known and appreciated throughout the world forW its high-quality craftsmanship . Each province possesses treasures of inestimable value, created by “making virtue of necessity”, as they say, that is, using the raw materials offered by the territory: from gold to silver, from ceramics to silk, to paper, leather and even straw, also including perfumes and excellent quality foodstuffs such as wine, oil or meat. Florentine artisans, in particular, are a historical and productive reality that has its roots deep in the truest soul of the city. The history of Florence is in fact indissolubly linked to the history of its artisans: between the 12th and 13th centuries they began to form the guilds of arts and crafts, who brought their members from the same professional category together for the purposes of promotion, mutual aid and the pursuit of common interests. The birth of the guilds of arts and crafts, an extremely modern insight for the time, deserves most of the plaudits for the extraordinary cultural and economic development that enabled Florence to become one of the richest, most powerful cities in Europe in the Renaissance. Today, in an increasingly globalised world, the Florentines have succeeded in conserving their immense manufacturing heritage to the utmost. Though retaining hand-crafting working methods, they have in fact known how to adapt perfectly to fit the contemporary timescales, methods and aesthetics, opening themselves up to the use of innovative techniques. Some of them have chosen to remain within the dimensions of the workshop, often family-run, others have given rise to full-blown international companies while still maintaining their SHUTTERSTOCK.COM manufacturing vocation. Let us discover some of these outstanding

products made in Florence together. PHOTO ©

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Creator of perfumes Lorenzo Villoresi, Florentine experimenter, autodidact and artist. A creator of perfumes of world renown and the inventor of a project for the diffusion of perfume culture with the foundation of an academy and a museum of perfume at his studio-palace in Florence. By Alessandra Avanzi

What is your first olfactory memory? There are so many of them… but they are associated with a house in the country a short distance from Florence. In particular, I remember the smell of a plant called “Olea fragrans” (Osmanthus fragrans). In this house in the country there was and still is a crazy flowering of this plant, during which there is a pervasive and penetrating perfume, characterised by honey-tinged, floral, fruity notes, with an “animal-like” undertone. I also remember the smell of the flowers of the bitter orange tree that are present in their hundreds in the garden of this house.

How did the idea of founding an academy of perfume come about? The Museo Villoresi and the Academy are the outcome of a lifetime devoted to the art of perfumery combined with a willingness to share the know-how of this art form. It affords a new approach to perfumes and an enhanced experience into their beauty, extraordinary variety and charm. There is a great interest in the world of perfume: amateurs who would like to become perfumers or enthusiasts who would like to have greater expertise. We began with awareness-creation and educational training lessons

GUGLIELMO DE’MICHELI with small groups of 10-20 people, and now today I’m asked to do lessons for much larger groups. In parallel, a museum of perfume is being built, which is still in the process of construction, located Il Bisonte shop-workshop Salvatore Ferragamo Museum on the ancient basement of the palace; with an aromatic garden so the people can smell and see PHOTO © plants such as patchouli, vetiver, frangipane, lily of the valley and many others. The academy will launch officially once the work on the museum of perfume, involving display cases of perfumes, a AROMA OF LEATHER uniqueness of its location alone, not to mention in Via de’ Tornabuoni, the since 1938 (raffaellobettini.it). A combination of collection of aromas and raw materials that are useful for the training course, has finished. We have Walking along the streets of Florence you may the refinement of its creations: hand-stitched site of the Museum and also the Ferragamo craftsmanship and innovation, Marzi Firenze also developed an original documentary film on the history of perfume. However, at the heart of find yourself suddenly inebriated by the aroma handbags, also made to order, and unique items boutique (www.ferragamo.com). hats for women are unique and inimitable: the our interest are the aromatic raw materials and the journey around the world to look for them. of leather coming from the shops that sell made of buckskin, crocodile, python and ostrich famous maglina di Firenze (Florentine plaited leather clothing and accessories. Ever since and decorated with ancient stones and silvers PLAITING straw), which is impossible to find nowadays What is the process for constructing a personalised perfume? There is no precise rule, each the 13th century, the neighbourhood of Santa (www.scuoladelcuoio.com). Who of us has never wanted a straw hat from and jealously guarded in Marzi’s warehouses, is time is different and depends on the person I have in front of me. I am an intermediary and the Croce in particular, thanks to its strategic position The Il Bisonte shop-workshop, another Florence? It is an accessory that “immediately still used when creating, decorating and hand- fragrances are the medium. The most important thing is the relationship that is established with close to the River Arno, has continued to host example of outstanding Florentine hand-crafting makes a trip to Italy” in the imaginations of the painting hats adorned with plumes, feathers, the person. Because there is an entire history behind them. Sometimes the people arrive aware activities such as tanneries, which required known at international level, is to be found in tourists visiting this country, but it is also much dried flowers and grasses. Marzi Firenze is now an and full of stories that must come out, at others they arrive entirely unaware of all this, quite a large quantity of water. You can have fun Via del Parione, not far from Palazzo Corsini. The loved by fashionable young Florentines; it is established brand on the international market, relaxed. But smells have a strong evocative power and it is necessary to be careful where we go. looking our for the reminders of these age-old material of choice of the brand is “vacchetta” just right for the beach and the city and will with an important and significant presence in all Finally, the formula remains confidential and the customers can re-order their “own” perfume. activities in the names of the streets and squares cowhide, a high-quality leather worked using suit any look. The working of straw is typical of the world’s finest showcases (www.marzi.com). of this area, such as Corso dei Tintori, Via delle the natural technique of vegetable tanning, Florentine craftsmanship, particularly of the town If you remain in the centre of Florence, not far Conce and Via dei Conciatori, to mention just an ancient procedure that makes it possible of Signa, situated around 10 km from Florence, from Palazzo Strozzi, then you must not miss a few. Here, as well as shopping in the many to obtain a product that is particularly soft and it saw its true rise to fame in around the out on the boutique Grevi, a historic brand of boutiques selling leather goods, you can observe and resistant and perfumed at the same time. 18th century, with the introduction of a method straw hats, established in 1875 and particularly the craftsmen and craftswomen at work in the Would you like to spoil yourselves with a pair of for cultivating wheat that involved intensive appreciated by Hollywood stars (www.grevi.it). workshops of the Leather School. Located handmade shoes made-to-measure for you by seeding and the moving forward of harvesting inside the ancient dormitory of the Monastery a Florentine artisan? Then Roberto Ugolini is time, before the stem reaches maturity, in order HIGH-QUALITY STATIONERY of the Franciscan Monks of the Basilica of Santa your man. In his workshop in the Santo Spirito to obtain a plait of straw that is thin, flexible and Another of the city’s most ancient crafts is paper Croce, designed by Michelozzo and frescoed by neighbourhood he will let you choose the blonde in colour. This technique proved to be production. The artistic paper products from the school of Ghirlandaio, it is worth a visit for the leather and the model, take the measurements a winning one, enabling the Florentine territory the Medici city range from the very famous of your foot, then he will work on a wooden to become the number-one producer of straw carta fiorentina, decorated by hand with the base, which he will modify and file down by hats in the entire Western world and still today designs of the lily, the symbol of Florence, or Marzi Firenze hand. After around six months and various tests it is the headquarters of the most prestigious else adorned with gilded ornamental motifs you will receive a shoe that will fit your perfectly straw hat companies in the world. If you are typical of the Renaissance, to high-quality (www.roberto-ugolini.com). an enthusiast for this subject then you must marbled paper, obtained through a demanding And on the subject of footwear, we cannot not miss the chance to visit the Museum of soaking process, which is distinguished forget another great Florentine artisan whose Straw and Plaiting, which is located in Signa from industrial processing on account of name has become legendary at international and includes an exhibition of various types the complexity of the procedure, to binding level: Salvatore Ferragamo. Even though he of straw and wheat, a selection of hats from products such as address books, letter paper, became famous for “dressing” the feet of the the end of the 19th century to the 1970s and notebooks, bookmarks, bookplates and diaries. divas of Hollywood, he started out here and he machines and equipment for working straw In this case too the ancient techniques have SANDRO MICHAHELLES returned again once he had achieved renown and hats (www.museopaglia.it). If after the visit been adapted to suit modern requirements, overseas. If you would like to know more about you have an uncontrollable desire to shop, offering a vast range of unique objects. To find Lorenzo Villoresi

the history of the designer label or treat yourself hop across to the nearby shop of Raffaello them, go to Giulio Giannini e Figlio (www. PHOTO © to a pair of its iconic shoes, you need only enter Bettini, where they have been producing them giuliogiannini.com). For six generations this

14 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | FOCUS WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING historic art workshop and ancient bookbinder’s, located right opposite Palazzo Pitti, has been producing handmade marbled paper, printed paper with traditional designs and, on request, personalised objects. Walking through the city Discovering Ponte Vecchio you will undoubtedly come upon one of the six Florentine boutiques of Il Papiro (ilpapirofirenze. It is one of the undisputed eu), a company established in Florence in 1976 symbols of Florence and, as such, and now known internationally, with points of purchase also in New York and Palm Beach. Their is one of the most photographed production, executed following the methods sites in the world. Here are some and procedures of the tradition, ranges from details so you can get to know it bookbindery items entirely covered in marbled paper to desk accessories of various types and better. BY AMAL ANGELOTTI sizes. Here you can also test your abilities on a paper marbling and bookbinding course, run by specialist artisans. Wouldn’t it be wonderful irst of all, it must be said that Ponte to return home with a souvenir from Florence Giulio Giannini e Figlio Vecchio (literally “Old Bridge”) is made with your very own hands? indeed “old”. The first to identify Another great artisan firm specialising in paper a ford in the Arno were the that has become renowned at international level a monk present who devoted his energies to soaps, cosmetics, room air fresheners, liqueurs, Etruscans. The Roman founders SHUTTERSTOCK is Pineider. Established in Florence in 1774, it working with herbs and the extraction of natural honey and specialist foodstuffs. Inside the former of the village of “Florentia” built a soon became a point of reference for the noble essences. This love for research still continues monastery, as well as purchasing medicinal wood and stone bridge there, the forerunner

F PHOTOS © families and upper middle classes of Europe; today thanks to the highly specialised work of products in the marvellous sales room, which of the current one, which dates back to around with time, the paper business was joined by great artisan perfumiers. Not far from Santa was originally one of the chapels, you must 1345. Since then, with all the various restorations in 1565 to connect the administrative buildings the city: considering it a source of great pride, that of leather goods and then that of writing Maria Novella railway station is one of the oldest not miss the museum, where the so-called and modifications, this passage across the Arno to his private residence, without exposing the Mussolini invited Hitler there in 1938, opening instruments. The Pineider flagship store is in the pharmacies in the world, the Officina Profumo- “Florentine bottles” are conserved, which were has remained in its place, actively participating in sovereign to any danger. up new larger, more panoramic windows for his heart of Florence, not far from Palazzo Strozzi Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. At the used to separate the aromatic essences from the history of the city. benefit. One rather romanticised version claims (www.pineider.com). beginning of the 13th century, the Dominican the distillation water, in addition to a collection A UNIQUE HISTORY that Hitler himself, cherishing the memory of monks converted the church into a monastery of Tuscan pharmacy ceramics and a series of ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURE The change of identity of the zone during such beauty, would decide to save the bridge FLORENCE, CITY OF PERFUMES and began to cultivate medicinal herbs in the ancient items of machinery. Also worthy of note The bridge is characterised by a solution with the Renaissance is due precisely to the Vasari from the terrible bombing campaigns of 1944. Perhaps not everyone knows this, but for a cloister, extracting ointments, balms and other is the library, where you can admire the frescoes lowered arches, never previously seen, which Corridor. The traditional shops of greengrocers, Unfortunately, the historical reconstruction long time Florence was considered the Italian remedies from them. To this day, continuing to created in 1380 by Mariotto di Nardo, one of makes it particularly stable and its profile butchers and fishmongers, who had a seems to prove that this merit cannot be capital of perfume. When Caterina de’ Medici use high-quality raw ingredients (most of the the first Renaissance painters, and where the unmistakable. From the very beginning, it was preference for the bridge on account of the ascribed to the German dictator. married future king of France Henry II, she took flowers and grasses still come from the garden ancient texts of the laboratory, hand-written understood to be a natural continuation of the ease with which they could throw their waste with her to Paris Renato, her trusted Florentine of the pharmacy) and following the original by the Dominican monks and showing all the road, and so it has shops and porticos along into the river, were evicted en bloc: it was LUXURY SHOPPING perfumier, who contributed to the diffusion of recipes of the Dominican monks, but with the traditional recipes, are conserved. On request, it is both sides facing towards the centre, each with preferred to offer the sovereign goldsmiths’ For more than four hundred years, Ponte perfume in France and then in all the European aid of avant-garde technology and machinery, possible to visit the complex accompanied by a a single shop window closed by strong wooden and jewellers’ shops, which were more Vecchio has therefore been inhabited by courts. Furthermore, in Florentine monasteries, the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa guide (www.smnovella.com). doors, and often with a picturesque backroom appropriate for his gaze (and his nose), and they artisans creating admirable gold and silver already in the Renaissance, there was always Maria Novella produces essences, perfumes, In Via de’ Bardi, on the other hand, in an ancient protruding over the river. have continued their presence there ever since objects. Still today, this remains the commercial building on the Oltrarno, is the boutique of Then, grafted onto the high part of the bridge is for the pleasure of tourists. Since then, Ponte vocation of the neighbourhood, which is Pineider Lorenzo Villoresi Firenze. Established in 1990, it the Vasari Corridor, the strategic passageway Vecchio has been an assiduous witness – and nevertheless not lacking in other luxury trades, has blazed an entirely new trail in the sector of that was built at the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici sometimes a protagonist – of the history of starting with artisan leather goods. Obviously, artistic perfumery, thanks to olfactory creations that the accesses and areas surrounding the Bridge, succeed in evoking sensations and suggestions of between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno distant countries (see box at page 15). degli Archibusieri on one side, and between Crystal glass, alabaster from Volterra, Carrara Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini on marble, olive wood, these are just some of the the other, are also swarming with points of raw materials from the territory that are used interest and high-quality shops. Bear in mind, in the perfumes of Lorenzo Villoresi, masterfully however, that sometimes you need only turn combined with spices and Oriental essences into an unknown alley to get away from the (www.lorenzovilloresi.it). bustling crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll. Are you passionate about perfumery and want to learn more about the subject? Then the UNDER THE BRIDGE tourist itineraries of “Firenze città dei perfumi” Finally, you should know that there is also [Florence city of perfumes] are designed specially life under the bridge: the historic Società for you: three highly perfumed routes guide you Canottieri Firenze, as well as bringing together in the discovery of some of the most prestigious sporting rowers, is a point of reference for the exponents of the Italian perfumier’s art, the activities that take place on the banks of the shops, pharmacies, spice shops and ancient river. Today, the Circle also offers a stupendous herbalists’ (toscana.artour.it). location for aperitifs, lunches and dinners.

16 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 17 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

Siena

the Cemetery, the Palazzo dell’Opera of the Cathedral and the Sinopie Museum. Once you’ve completed your visit to this unbelievable square, if you have a little time left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing

SHUTTERSTOCK onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today Tuscany’s soft rolling hills houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of PHOTO © Not just Florence the most prestigious universities in the world. With a brief trip by coach from Florence (looking at the idyllic landscape of the Tuscan If Florence offers tourists an f you choose Florence as your base, 16th-century walls, today still practically fully countryside through the window) you reach the good news is that around an hour intact and walkable in their entirely. You can Siena, one of the most loved medieval unrivalled cultural and historical away by train, bus or car you will find cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a centres in Italy, which is also included on heritage, its surrounding area UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s no less so. Here are some countryside, natural thermal springs, benches. The picturesque historic centre has nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is medieval towns and abbeys and remained almost intact, including countless renowned for its unique shell shape, for its suggestions for trips outside the kilometresI of coastline for bathers. medieval churches, which have earned Lucca architectural integrity, and because twice a city that are able to satisfy any The only problem is in having to make a the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio choice, particularly if you have just a few Renaissance squares and buildings and di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental need. For more details ask your SHUTTERSTOCK days available. Roman amphitheatres. importance for the Sienese, which sees the concierge. By Chiara Zaccarelli The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also seventeen historic districts that comprise San Gimignano

CITIES OF ART be easily reached from Florence in about the city compete against each other. The PHOTO © If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the an hour by train. Loved by tourists from square is dominated by a series of buildings Nature at its wildest in the area of the Crete Senesi, the medieval right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the of inestimable historical and architectural towns with their towers standing out among the green hills th Chiara Zaccarelli from the Tuscan regional capital there are Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of value, including the 14 -century Palazzo and the crowds in Piazza del Campo on the occasion of the Travel Editor architectural wonders that will catapult you the Cathedral, which stands in a unique Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, traditional Palio di Siena (2 July and 16 August). Where® Italia into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. monumental context, declared a UNESCO with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella This is Tuscany too. About an hour by train from Florence is World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. Here, di Piazza, a marble tabernacle with splendid Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating after the unmissable ascent of the Tower, you sculptures, the Loggia della Mercanzia and historic centres, surrounded by ancient can visit the Cathedral itself, the Baptistery, Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena

18 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 19 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, with their succession of churches, palaces and shops where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied fruit and pepper. And a few kilometres from Siena, another town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its characteristic medieval architecture. It is the unmissable San Gimignano, reachable by coach from Siena and Florence and situated in the heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking round this small town, the 13th / 14th-century appearance of which is still

practically unchanged, is almost like going SHUTTERSTOCK SHUTTERSTOCK back in time. San Gimignano is famous above all for its medieval towers, which were as Greve in Chianti Saturnia Pier footpath promenade, beach and Apuane mountains in Forte dei Marmi Versilia PHOTO © many as 72 at one time and today are just PHOTOS © fifteen, including some in ruins and without their tops but still visible as part of the urban olive groves and cypress trees in the surreal THERMAL SPRINGS vascular circuits, hotels and restaurants, be enjoyed both free of charge and at the there are in fact various beaches that can fabric. Nevertheless, the effect of arriving peacefulness of the Chianti hills? Tuscany is the region that boasts the largest one of the largest oases of relaxation establishments with their attached hotel be easily reached both by car and by train. from theLUGANO countryside and seeing the outline Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move number of spa structures in Italy, thanks to in the whole of Tuscany. Or maybe you structures. On the outskirts of Montecatini The closest, the preferred destination of chic of the town emerge still leaves you breathless. towards a wilder, more barren territory, that the presence of numerous water deposits prefer a wilder, less expensive alternative? Terme, on the other hand, is the spectacular Florentines, is Forte dei Marmi, located in MENDRISIO of the Crete Senesi. Located in the area famous since antiquity for the treatment of The nearby Cascate del Gorello form a Grotta Giusti, a thousand-year-old natural north-western Tuscany, with its long well- NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES south-east of Siena,BRESCIA the crete are clay hills, numerous pathologies. From Florence you waterfall that flows around an ancient mill cave that winds its way amid stalactites and equipped beaches, dotted with venues Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleysBERGAMO the result of the continuous erosion of the can easily reach numerous natural springs giving rise to a series of natural pools dug stalagmites to reach a stretch of crystal- frequented by VIPs, fashion boutiques and and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them sea sediments that covered the zone millions and although many have now become part into the rock. The water has a temperature clear water. Its waters have a temperature of exclusive nightspots. Further south, in the is easy, bothNOVARA on foot (if you are keen on of years ago. These bare, softly undulating of spa establishments, others are still free, so of 37.5°C and thanks to the presence of between 27°C and 34°C and mud therapy province of Livorno, you breathe an entirely trekking then it will just be a stroll for you) hills, with their characteristic grey-blue you can dip in their warm waters and benefit TRIESTE thermal plankton has beneficial effects on and balneotherapy are practised there in different atmosphere. Vada is perfect for and on the numerous buses departing fromMILANO colour and almost lunar appearance, are from their therapeutic properties at zero the skin and the digestive, circulatory and baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the nature lovers with its free beaches; here the the city centre. Over the years the hill of dotted with cypresses and farmhouses and cost, or at very affordable prices. Whether motor systems. Entry to the falls is free of metabolism of the blood vessels. water is shallow and transparent and the Fiesole has been the source of inspiration for still encapsulate the essence of the most you just want to relax or treat yourself to a charge, and although they have no facilities sand pale and fine. Castiglioncello, on the artists, spiritual figures, noble families, writers authentic Tuscany; they are far removed beauty treatment, or you have some ailment they are open 24 hours a day, every day, THE BEACHES other hand, is known as “the pearl of the and entrepreneurs. From this privileged from the tourist routes, rich in traces and to be treated, you are spoiled for choice. even in winter. Let’s move to the province Your bathing costume and beach towel Tyrrhenian” on account of its breathtaking observatory,ALESSANDRIA dotted with villas, museums, remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque In the heart of Maremma, in the Province of Siena now, to immerse ourselves in the are probably not the first things you think landscapes, characterised by sheer cliffs, archaeological excavations, churches and medieval towns and culinary festivals (of of Grosseto, is the park of the Saturnia sulphur waters of the Thermal Baths of of putting in your suitcase if you are about coves and pinewoods. Very easy to reach TORINO convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of which that of the white truffle, typicalFERRARA of the Thermal Baths, a fully fledged resort with Petriolo. Already known in the Roman era, to set off for Florence, but if you visit in the by train directly from Florence, the beach Florence and the Florentine countryside. If zone, stands out in particular). open-air thermal pools, hydromassage, these waters gush out at a temperature of summer you might feel the desire to seek at Quercianella, again in the province you love panoramas, another unmissable PIACENZA 43°C, are rich in salts and are traditionally a little refreshment at one of the many of Livorno, is excellent for lovers of the spot is the small town of Settignano, this MAR used to cure the various pathologies of the beaches dotted along the Tuscan coastline. Mediterranean maquis and perfect for too easy to reach from the city centre; in respiratory tracts. These springs too can Although the Medici city is deep inland, diving and snorkelling enthusiasts. the past it has been chosen as aGENOVA residence ADRIATICO by painter Telemaco Signorini, poet BOLOGNA Gabriele d’Annunzio and writer Mark Twain, FORTE all fascinated by its gentle hills and calm atmosphere. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI Pedalling through Tuscany The very famousMAR Chianti zoneLIGURE, renowned LUCCA MOUNTAIN RIDGE for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of Would you like to discover the area around Florence from a different cypresses, olive groves, towns and abbeys PISA perspective, more on a human scale and in contact with nature? Then built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car FIRENZE you can opt for a bicycle tour. Pedalling along the romantic olive groves, VENTIMIGLIAfrom the centre of Florence. If you are lucky vineyards, medieval town and , taking in the perfumes and enough to be there between September colours of the Tuscan countryside in ways that would otherwise be and November you can witness two key SAN GIMIGNANO impossible. After the effort of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest events for the economy and culture of the and refreshment with visits to wine cellars and the tasting of wines, olive territory: the harvesting of grapes and olives. oils and local specialities. If you are not particularly sporty but would still Can you think of anything more romantic LIVORNO ANCONA like to visit the outskirts of Florence from this unique perspective, then than enjoying a picnic on a warm late SIENA you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that irresistible vintage touch that is summer day, sipping new wine and tasting undoubtedly less tiring. Ask your concierge. the speciality of the location, surrounded by 20 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 PERUGIA www.wheretraveler.com 21

PESCARA CORSICA

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MAR TIRRENO

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SARDEGNA WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

WELCOME TO FORTE DEI MARMI CULTI HOUSE A small, charming space in the centre of Forte dei Marmi, that expresses the spirit of the company and hosts all the collections footwear for more than forty years now, of home fragrances, from home diffusers to sprays, scented and Giovanni del Forte, who manufactures candles and car sachets. Characterised by the same iconic hand-made clogs for VIPs and royal families, elements as the Milanese boutiques, such as maple wood or Principe di Firenze, a tailor’s shop of furnishings, glass shelving, suffused lighting, the boutique is a yesteryear, with its age-old charm and real “fragrance house” whose mission is to promote the Living bundles of precious fabrics. The nights, on Culture conceived thirty years ago: an original concept that the other hand, pass quickly, in fashionable translates into a stylistic and olfactive coherence, stimulating nightspots such as Twiga or the historic La the senses in a heady mix of design, art and perfume. Capannina di Franceschi, an iconic venue www.culti.com from the 1960s, which has made a powerful Via Carducci, 43. T: 0584 1848084. contribution to building up the iconography of the Forte dei Marmi of the period and still today, with all its highs and lows, it still succeeds in exciting. ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ Florentine designer Angela Caputi also has a shop in Forte dei A holiday in Forte dei Marmi revolves around Marmi with her brand Giuggiù. Her imaginative plastic jewellery rituals that seem eternal: on Wednesdays, for is inspired by the US movies of the early 20th century and indeed instance, there is the legendary market, and is much loved across the ocean (to the extent that some of her you can find everything there. The Market pieces are exhibited in the Metropolitan Museum Art in New at Forte dei Marmi is a genuine open- York). The boutique in Forte dei Marmi remains consistent Twiga Beach Club Forte dei Marmi air boutique where you can buy precious with the holiday spirit of the location and is designed with total fabrics or ceramics for your seaside home, white interiors. Here, in addition to the jewellery, it is possible but also leather goods, hats made of fine to purchase a selection of clothing items and accessories that straw and cashmere cardigans, all strictly complete the brand’s collections. The bikes, the scent of maritime pines, the period, when it became one of the most Made in Italy. It goes without saying that focaccine, the Wednesday market, the long glamorous holiday resorts in Italy and was you cannot expect to find neighbourhood www.angelacaputi.com. Via Stagio Stagi, 50 A/B. pier stretching into the sea, the historic invaded by VIPs and famous personalities, market prices, but quality, as we know, has to T: 0584 80705. beach clubs with their striped umbrellas the Milanese and Tuscan upper middle class be paid for. And then there are the focaccine, and the Liberty-style villas hidden away and “holidaymakers” hoping to have a little which, together with the bomboloni (cream in the shade of the pinewood. This, and stardust sprinkled on themselves. buns) are the snacks that symbolise summers PRINCIPE DI FIRENZE so much more, is Forte dei Marmi, the in Versilia. You can buy them unfilled at The history of Principe di Firenze is inextricably linked with seaside resort in the province of Lucca Today “Il Forte”, as the regulars call it, not the historic Focacceria Valè, or Da Orlando, Tuscany, and particularly with Florence, where it was founded that takes its name from the fort located in without a touch of self-congratulatory where they sell the filled versions. in 1930. The point of purchase in Forte dei Marmi also the town centre and from the marbles of snobbery, retains its own refined, hazy aura. remains faithful to that calm elegance of British inspiration the nearby Apuan Alps. Located around an Here, in the summer months, the days pass Luckily there are plenty of opportunities to that is the essence of the Principe di Firenze collections that hour and a half by train from Florence, but lazily, between the beach (no less than 5 burn a few calories: travelling around Il Forte are much loved by a certain type of cultured, sophisticated also reachable by bus (ask your concierge), kilometres long) and the pinewood. Among by bike is de rigueur (they can be hired from traveller. The own-brand tailored creations, which are suited since the early 20th century it has fascinated the historic establishments are the Silvio, to every occasion of the day, alternate with proposals for Cicli Maggi) but alternatively, above all if you women, men and children by major Italian brands. Here you industrialists such as the Agnelli and Siemens Piero and Annetta beach clubs, but more have young children, you can rent can also find accessories, scented candles, silverware and families and intellectuals such as Thomas recently fashionable new entry international a rickshaw and have fun breezing objects for the home. Mann or Luchino Visconti, to name just a clubs such as Nikki Beach (the one in Saint along the promenade. But few, also becoming a point of reference Tropez, in other words) are also doing well. Forte dei Marmi is also www.principedifirenze.com for European high society. The major In the late afternoon, before an aperitif at culture: every year, Via Carducci 1/3. T: 0584 89369. tourism boom occurred in the post-war Almarosa, frequented by footballers and in the months stars of the entertainment world, you can of July and go shopping in the boutiques in the town August, inside FEDELI SWIM & WEAR centre. And if you linger a while to watch the the large sunset from the beach, don’t worry, because In recent years Fedeli Swim & Wear, a colourful collection Versiliana of men’s swimming costumes by the historic Fedeli the shops stay open here till late evening in maritime Cashmere clothing firm, has embarked upon a process of the summer months. pine park, the retail expansion into the most prestigious Italian holiday festival of the locations. It is almost de rigueur, therefore, to have a shop All the major brands, from Gucci to Prada same name in the centre of Forte dei Marmi. The space, which is bright to Dolce&Gabbana, have shops at Il Forte, takes place, and minimalistic, stretches over an area of 75 sq.m. and is but there is also no shortage of multi-brand which includes structured around tones of white, to make the vitamin colour shops, such as Boutique Fiacchini, that stand concerts, shades of the shirts, polo shirts, swimming costumes and out for their choice of international labels. theatre plays eyewear of Fedeli Swim & Wear stand out. But the real gems are the historic shops, such and events of as the one belonging to Antonio Artigiano, various kinds fedeliswimwear.com who has been creating hand-crafted (C.Z.) Gucci Via Idone, 3/C. T: 0584 784128.

22 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 23 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM CLOTHING & W The Guidelines M H E O This directory, grouped by category, is a list of R . C ACCESSORIES E T R R A V E L E establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Angela Caputi Giuggiù The boutique offers an extraordinary selection MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold of clothing items for every type of woman. In at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the addition, hats, bags and other accessories from coordinates on the street map (pages 62-63). all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist and designer Angela Caputi chooses these SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from articles personally to combine with and complete 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open on Sundays (except those located in central Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Florence) and on Monday mornings. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 Ask your concierge. Anichini Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children generally included in the price of goods. where skilled artisan hands create elegant items for newborns, children and youngsters using the TAX-FREE SHOPPING best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, and exported from the EU: before finalizing located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat whether they are eligible for a tax refund. 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 UnionPay Service Hotline: The entire 00 800 800 95516 Aspesi e-mail: [email protected] The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion Ferragamo UnionPay is an international bankcard association veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored based in China and serves the world’s largest lines, elegant details and natural materials. cardholder base. With more than 7 billion His current collections are still based on the universe cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become original “no frills” philosophy and will appeal to Florentine brand that has known how to all those who like their outerwear without flashy the mayor payment method of the outbound combine age-old hand crafting skills with Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 labels. www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon- the creativity typical of products made merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun payment, among which 9,000 merchants are 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. T: 055 287987. in Italy, today Salvatore Ferragamo located in Florence. This allows hundred of Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat represents quality, contemporary ALESSANDRO BENCINI thousands of affluent Chinese customers to 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: elegance, innovation and tradition. 055 287931. Map E4 shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also The Florentine boutique, which actively work with famous retail groups, such Brunello Cucinelli PHOTO © contains all the fashion house’s men’s, as the Rinascente department stores, The The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed women’s, accessories and perfume Mall, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian provide special discount or services for UnionPay craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in collections, is located inside the medieval cardholders. Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder Palazzo Spini Feroni, the company’s Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the DINING historic workshop since 1938, today production of high-quality cashmere knitwear and Reservations for most restaurants are strongly its headquarters and the site of the Chenille jewellery today boasts top-level production with total look advised. In Italy, service is included in the men’s and women’s collections. Today it is seen Salvatore Ferragamo Museum. The price meaning that although tipping is not It’s the magic of Giuggiù, which makes resin as resplendent as though it were prismatic velvet. And in the as a model enterprise all over the world for its boutique occupies the entire ground compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, boutiques of the centre, where its creative heart beats, it presents the new collection. By Elena Binda a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include floor of the building, inside large spaces defining itself as “a humanistic company”. www. the word “coperto”, a small surcharge decorated with 18th-century frescoes, brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via corresponding to the cost of the service and stretching from Piazza Santa Trinita to dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3 mazing colours, the desire to be its reference in the optical effect of synthetic >> www.angelacaputi.com bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, the banks of the River Arno. And it is semiformal clothing is usually considered de Elena Mirò cosily wrapped up in warm materials: resins that recall velvets, brocades and chenille. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. precisely the wing of the store that faces rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to A autumn to be worn. Angela Caputi, The new collection is presented in all its Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ curvy women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò onto Piazza Santa Trinita that hosts the the Florentine designer and inventor of splendour in the two boutiques owned by the area is specifically offered. has been synonymous with perfect-fit clothing Ferragamo’s Creations corner, with Giuggiù, a luxury costume jewellery brand brand in the historic centre of Florence. Above Set meals: prices are per person and usually items that enhance every woman’s look with the exclusive footwear line that revisits refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). a contemporary, refined and ever new style. appreciated all over the world, knows this all, the creative heart of Giuggiù, the workshop some of the brand’s iconic. This is a € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / From dresses to outerwear, from trousers to all too well. where Angela Caputi still gives life to her €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. accessories, to beachwear, the brand expresses space whose layout recalls the studio The first innovation for the season is in fact the creations: a stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio, the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape with where Salvatore Ferragamo received his “Ciniglia” (chenille) collection, a jewellery line in an ancient 17th-century building known as SIGHTSEEING style. www.elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat customers and all its creative inspiration. inspired by the subtle tones of nature and, “Palazzetto Medici”, the designer continues The information provided on museums and 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, A unique opportunity to fully immerse monuments is verified as meticulously as 8/r. T: 055 2657725. Map F3 at the same time, by the tactile experiences the work begun decades ago, inspired by US possible. However, data such as telephone yourself in the universe of this gifted Giovanni Raspini that the arrival of cool weather brings with it. cinema, continually cross-referencing fashion numbers, opening hours, prices and the innovator who has revolutionised the In the beating heart of the fashion district, the The range of colours therefore includes the and craftsmanship. More recently opened is the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, world of women’s footwear through boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration red of wine, the brown of the earth, mustard boutique in Borgo Santissimi Apostoli, where, in Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and new models, volumes and materials. work, museum loans or changes yellow and the soft green of autumn leaves. along with jewellery, it is possible to purchase a Florence) is a genuine concept store that boasts a www.ferragamo.com. of management. Ask your concierge. The shapes, geometrical and regular, strive for selection of clothing items and accessories personalized layout design where a 15th-century Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. aesthetic refinement. The name “Ciniglia” finds to complete the Giuggiù style. tapestry stands out. Fine jewellery - with a unique

24 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 25 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ]

Elegant PRADA work bag in saffiano leather with clean lines. The two-tone crocodile skin inserts enhances the sophisticated Luxury Top Brands look of this model, to be carried by hand or on the shoulder.

ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com. www.albertaferretti.com. Open daily 10am- 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am- 7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. T: 055 212995. Map E4 T: 055 290284. Map F3 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. Open daily ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am- T: 055 293811. Map E4 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. 7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. T: 055 215774. Map F4 T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am- CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open Mon-Sat 2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm- 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open Mon-Sat 7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. 10.30am-7.30; Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 T: 055 292347. Map E4 T: 055 2608931. Map F3

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat MONCLER—www.moncler.com. Open Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. 10am-7pm. Piazza della Signoria, 10. These pumps by GIORGIO ARMANI are adorned Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Fragrance & with a unique menswear-inspired detail: Map E3 T: 055 287931. Map E4 Beauty Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun an elegant pin reminiscent of a tuxedo lapel. Sizing 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 49. BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com. MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. T: 055 298181. Map F3 Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. Women,s clothes 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open GIORGIO ARMANI— Via della Vigna Nuova, 27. Map E3 Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. www.armani.com IT EUR US UK T: 055 219179. Map E3 36 32 1 4 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily T: 055 2670157. Map E4 2pm/3pm-7pm. NEW OPENING Via de’ 38 34 2 6 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. T: 055 Tornabuoni, 83/r. T: 055 219041. 40 36 4 8 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta 287066. • Open daily 10am-7pm. Via DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open Mon- Map E3 42 38 6 10 Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275. Map F4 de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. T: 055 267471 Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Map E3 44 40 8 12 GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3 46 42 10 14 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open 48 44 12 16 DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. Map E3 43-45. Women,s shoes T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open T: 055 2669101. Map E3 T: 055 9040100. Map E3 daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 IT EUR US UK BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— 36 36 6 3 DOLCE&GABBANA— 75927010. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 37 37 6.5 4 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16. www.dolcegabbana.it www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am- HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Open Mon-Sat 38 38 7.5 5 T: 055 285832. Map F3 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Antinori, 6/r. 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open T: 055 292123. Map E4 39 39 8.5 6 daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, T: 055 2381004. Map E3 40 40 9 7 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. 41 41 9.5 8

HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open Mon-Sat Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. Men,s clothes Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 2741013. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 055 210856. Map F3 Map E3 IT EUR US UK Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. 50 46 36 36 T: 055 2658082. Map E4 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. Open HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7.30pm. Via 52 48 38 38 daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Por Santa Maria, 70. 54 50 40 40 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. T: 055 294909. Map F4 T: 055 216227. Map F3 56 52 42 42 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am- 58 54 44 44 7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 60 56 46 46 T: 055 264254. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. 7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. T: 055 219423. Men,s shoes ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- T: 055 2398688. Map E4 7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via Map E3 IT EUR US UK della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Women. 40 40 7.5 6 T: 055 2670086. Map D3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. 41 41 8 7 Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. T: 055 293142. Map E4 42 42 8.5 8 FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Map E3 43 43 9 9 7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. 44 44 10.5 10 T: 055 212305 Map E3 MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Open 45 45 11.5 11 Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. 46 46 12 12 Printed silk twill MAX MARA scarf FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. with hand-sewn edges. 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am- A hymn to femininity, this long, straight dress in warm shades of red by EMILIO PUCCI Available in black or red. 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). 7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. is highlighted by a jewel collar. A combination of elegance and seduction. T: 055 2382883. Map F4 T: 055 287761. Map F3

26 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 27 V A SI E S T E S E

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V IA S A N D O M E N IC O TOSCANA VIA PISTOIESE . Palazzo di Giustizia di Firenze VIA DELLA TORRE DEGLI AGLI VIA DEL TERZOLLE V VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI V. M . M E R C AT I

VIA DEI CAPPUCCINI VIA DI MONTUGHI VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO IAZZUOLA TERZOLLE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIALE DELLA V. M A L P I G H I ELAL P VIA PISTOIESE PIAZZA Convento Frati Cappuccini D V. M AT T I O L I V. C U O C O VIA A P.TTA DEL TERZOLLE V. C I N O D VIA ORAZIO VECCHI Parco San Donato PIAZZA DELL'ELBA G. G. ARCHI VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI Chiesa Santa Maria Ausiliatrice Chiesa ASSAI San Francesco e Santa Chiara A V I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U CARACCIOLO F.V. P I S T O I A VIA PISTOIESE VIA SANDRO PERTINI VIA CARLO PISACANE Giardino V. B A R B E R I N O E L E I I Del Museo V. F. T. BARACCHINI Stibbert V. LUISA SANFELI

VIALE CORSICA VIA GUGLIELMO M V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

V IA F R A N C E S C O B A R A C C A E S E N G O L O B A I V Parco Pettini Burresi TOSCANA G. GIORGINI CE V. GUINIZZELLI VIA RIGUCCIO GALLUZZI

VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA VIA FAENTINA VIA PALA NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI VIA AND VIA DELL'ARCOVATA V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V AI V S. Antonio V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V da Padova al Romito PIETRO . F. COLA REA CO Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI LEOPOLDO TI S D'ORO RSALI T O R OI E M A N U E L EI TIBB V. VANNUCCI Centro Commerciale San Donato VIA PIERO CIRONI ERT V. F. G AI N N I V I A . G . F A B B R O N I VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio

VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DELLE FORBICI Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI G. BARTOLINI Villa Fabbricotti VIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R VIA TRIESTE TERZOLLE V I A G . B A R B E R A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA TINI PIAZZA MUGNONE VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA B R O N GIAMPIETRO VIA BEZZECCA ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi OFF V. F. CARACCIOLO V V I A L A VIA GAETANO MILANESI I A D I N O C O M P VIA SAN DONATO V I A T R E Parco Liceo V AI C G . U A S T I V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLE QUERCE Leonardo da Vinci V. O. DA PORDENONE VIA TRIESTE N IA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I Chiesa della B.V. M LARGO Madre della A G Divina Provvidenza CESARE Orti del Parnaso N I CO MUGNONE V IA M A R A G L IA N O CANTÙ

V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO VIA ANTONIO STOPPANI NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I PIAZZA LUDOVICO ANTONIO VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI V N D O M E N I VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I MURATORI SA Preziosissimo ANTI VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Sangue I A MUGNONE U G I A V I VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI Stazione Firenze Statuto Giardino V I A F A E N T I PIAZZA V V. G. dell'Orticoltura VIALE FRANCESCO REDI VIA FRANCESCO BONAINI FEB OXR A I A V I Villa il TOMMASO PIAZZA Ventaglio VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C ALVA EDISON V. I. NIEVO VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA VIA BOLOGNESE DELLE CURE C O I L Chiesa della UIDO CAVALC Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT I N I VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA RFA NA C SEPC IVOR I PIAZZA VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI VIA V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I VNES AIRN EI N I V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI D EASLO TATV I U TO D I GIACOMO PIAZZA A L I VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N I A PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O XAMV XI A G GO I V E VITTORIA VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I DAV I ER LO M TO I G A V IA M A R A G L IA N O V. TOSCANELLI VIA DELLE FORBICI U VIA A. GARBASSO G VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI PIAZZA VIA DELLA CERNAIA A VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI I U VIA FILIPPO PACINI SE V. A. MEUCCI V GALILEO VIA ANTONIO COCCHI S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O T MUGNONE FERRARIS VIA DEI CAIROLI O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Istituto Comprensivo Statale R I V V I A D E L G ONNA TOS VIA LEONARDO FIBONACCI H Sacro Cuore VIALE ALESSANDROV. VOLTAG. B. AMICI I I VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI L U C A G OI R D A N O A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI LARGO C .A V I V. MAD PONTE ROSSO

V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E V. A. NICOLODI PIETRO D Golf Club Parco Di Firenze V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A CAPEI E

Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena VIA A. BERTANI L AL N D VIA G. BANDI

VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON V. G. INGHIRAMI PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO V. A. PACINOTTI IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T RE DI SAN EOXL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O PA MARTIRI N S IACOPINO V. S. BOTTICELLI PIAZZA E A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI V AI M A S A C C I GIOVANNI G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA IA V IA C A S S IA SHOPPING ANTONELLISHOPPING V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO Giardino VIA D. MANTELLATE V AI V AI L E D E MI LI L E FARDELLA della Fortezza VI A DU DI TORREARSA P I V. G. MARCONI C E R V I A D E L A VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO VIA LUPI BONIF D’AO PRATELLINO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE C A P P O N VIA NINO BIXIO VIA CASTELFIDARDO personality, often animal-themed, sometimes 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com.PIAZZA Open Mon-Sat one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods Marina Rinaldi STA Richard Ginori 1735 Chiesa di Sant'Agata V. VOLTURNOV Chiesa San Jacopino AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CAIROLI I A oversized or limited edition - silverware, objects Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/ 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. of Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic L E VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO Renowned for its tasteful,VIALE plus-size SPARTACO apparel LAVAGNINI for PIAZZA VASARI Tradition and excellence in the high-quality VIA SAN GALLO M I SAVONAROLA V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O for the home, hand-crafted white bronze creations, c/d.ACIO (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. T: 055 210856. Map E3 workshop, a meeting place for buyers and artists, A VIA G. PAISIELLO fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide O artistic manufacture of porcelain. TheN Richard VIA POGGI VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI IL VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V F always having a style that is midway between Map L3 where sculptors and their students carry out their Giardino VIA PIETRO MARONCELLI range of collections,VIA G. DOLFI featuring both contemporary V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O O P Ginori “artistic factory”, of 18th-century origin, V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V I Campo Di R A A S. CATERINA D'ALESSANDRIA Marte minimalism and classicism as the common V I A C A V O U R work daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the E PIAZZA VI V IA G U S T A V O M O D E N A Chiesa VIAPIO FEDI PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E G and classic lines that are updated on a seasonalVIA DELLE RUOTE DEPARTMENT STORES still produces accessories for the table and living U Nostra Signora Stefano Ricci D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI I D denominator. From the design to the wax model to del Sacro Cuore trade. Work is done by commission on original Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags room andComunale works of art in its Doccia Factory (20 km VIA FONTEBUONI O Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, Rinascente VIA ROSOLIN Franchi MONTIGNANO “lost-wax” casting, to diamond-setting, each piece sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara F M and accessories for a total look that exudes class Chiesa dei Sette Santi from Florence) using ancient working techniques. V. C. V IA V E N E Z IA with the purestGiardino male elegance as the watchword. A O VIA BARTOLOMMEI In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place VIA MASSA is entirely hand worked. Open daily 10am-9pm. RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFONSO LA MARMORA V. G. BENIVIENI marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli. VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZIand elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat Italian style and international trends. www. N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE These, in short, are the values of the company A VIA DELLA FORTEZZA to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, VIA DEI SETTE SANTI www.giovanniraspini.com. Via PortaBAMBINE Rossa, E BAMBINI 82/r. T: EGLI ARTISTI com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo T VIA GIUSEPPE SIRTORI C 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pmPIAZZA c/o Rinascente- founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Cimitero richardginori1735.com. Open Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; I O DI BESLAN V AI M A S A C C OI 055 2741501. Map E4 INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIER ANTONIO MICHELI home anddella design Misericordia items. For women, proposals San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047. Map C4 Passerella dell'Isolotto Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Claudia,S. Giovanni which, now in its second generation, has VIA D Thurs-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 12 noon-6.30pm. Via ei VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N dei Cavalieri of the best Italian and international brands range VIA MASSA Rondinelli, 17/r. T: 055 210041. Map E2 Luisa Via Roma become a successful international group. FromGiardino Leone Cei & Sons VL. T. MAMIANI Société Anonyme from the classic to the contemporary and for menV AI M A N N E L L I V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E VIA SAN GALLO VIA CITTADELLA MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early clothing (jackets, suits and high-fashion sports Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI An independent shop of North-European V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I A D N O F L A V A I V Giardino from formal to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of Torchio (Il) DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI LG. PORTA 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisa Viadi RomaValfonda is VIA DEL PRATELLO items, but also shirts and ties) to jewellery, from dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and conception inspired by the underground P EI R C A P P O N I Teatro dell’Opera LEOPOLDA reference for luxury shopping and for new brands, Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting a landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the A Z N E A F A I V V IA G U E L F A leatherwear to perfumesGiardino and the SR Home and armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique atmospheresV. MONTANELLI of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods dei Semplici exclusive products and the unveiling of innovations. tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETOworld over. A global powerhouse of e-commerce SR JuniorConvento collections, Stefano Ricci represents VIA GIAMBOLOGNA models from a rare and abundant archive. The VIA PIO FEDI of London, Berlin and New York (the name di San Marco VIA G.LA PIRA VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RATA There is a Food Market on the fourth floor with with refined materials such as Florentine leather, Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPPONI V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI with 5 million visitors a month, its Florence store Italian excellence all over the world, making production, entirely made in Florence, is destined VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and PeggyREPA PORTA AL LO gourmet products made in Italy and a selection of hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I L LARGO PRATO also offers a digitalized purchasing experience: production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian for private homes, hotels and private clubs all over V IA T O R C IC O D A Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde art PIAZZA excellent international products, while the Terrace devising new artisan articles with contemporary Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI San Barnaba Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE PIAZZA SAN MARCO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE instead of displaying the garments, they have been VIA SANTA SAN GA craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA the world. The carving,GENNARELLI gilding, burnishing and VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA gallery in New York called Société Anonyme in with café-bar (T: 055 283612) offers a spectacular materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. VIA DELL'ARCOLAIO SAN BARTOLOMEO VIA V AI M A S A C C OI Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I replaced with interactive installations. Don’t EM U I F A I V miss the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district of the manufacturing tradition and the roots of lacquering work is performed rigorously by hand AL GIGNORO V IA G U E L F A 360° panoramic view of the city’s main landmarks com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI Palazzo Corsini sul Prato the elegant terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international the territory, in 2010 the firm acquiredChiesa the Antico following traditional procedures and using natural A R N O San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLOwww.rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862.VIALE MANFREDO FANTI VIA DEI FALCUCCI di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San Cimitero products and pigmentations. A huge department VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. Map G6 V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Chiesa Casa di Riposo degli Inglesi episcopale americana www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 FredianoGalleria dell’Accademia district thatPIAZZA has produced precious fabrics BORGO PINTI is dedicated to fabrics for furnishings, with a della Beata and women’sONI collectionMercato PIAZZA that DEL is only sold in-store DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I T: 055 219113. Map F3 VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO V IA D E G L IA L F A N I V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico V AI L E M A L T A CENTRALE SANTISSIMA 9064116. Map F3 V.Z VIA DE’GINORI since 1786 and today still uses the original ancient collection of fabrics still produced on ancient V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO Stazione Ferroviaria and online. www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon ANNUNZIA VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze JEWELLERY & WATCHES Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA VIA DELL’ARIENTO looms or limited editions, or produced on request Nelson Mandela Forum V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella E P E M A Z Z I N I LI ORI FINE ART VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI IN and based on customers’ designs. Qualified OC Spedale degli Innocenti VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO V AI S O L F E R NI O SO Alessandro Dari degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A CD AME LAG RDPV OI ' N DELLA STAZIONE A V I A C A V O U R consultancy service provided on antiques and VIA MILAZZO VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI Abacus V AI M A S A C C OI UNIQUE Luxury shopping D E ’ Housed in the 15th-century Palazzo COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB . L DEI NELLI VIALE GIUSEP V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI VIA on the reproduction of period items. V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico BINDERY A workshop producing precious V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E na da Palazzo Nasi-Quaratesi, the “Museum Shop” of master ateri V I A R I C VIA DEI SERVI .C na Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A C O L O N N A Sie Medici Riccardi O S a Museo I V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . d P. DI MADONNA BORGO PINTI www.leonecei.com. Headquarters & Showroom: V C PIAZZA bindings. The raw materials, such as “Acid Free” goldsmith Alessandro Dari has an area used to V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I C VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci VIALE MANFREDO FANTI L’ISOLOTTO V. DEGLI AVELLI Basilica A V AI D E G L IA L F A N I VIALE BERNARDO SEGNI V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI L

VIA DEL R. FIORENTINO R. DEL VIA di San Lorenzo SAN E VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ G O R I T paper, 100% cotton or leather with vegetable exhibit his precious works and another used as an VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI Basilica di LORENZO S VIA GIORDANI L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I Santa Maria Novella VIA D A VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO C PIAZZA V I A D E ’ V A N N I V I A P I G N O N E Ponte della Vittoria E L Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI E’ Teatro D Università tanning or hand-dyed using ancient methods and artistic workshop where jewellery and decorativeVIALE EDMONDO DE AMICIS V I A VIA DEL SANSOVINO Santa C MASSIMO D'AZEGLIO VIA LIBERO ANDREOTTI VIA PANZANI ONTI degli Studi di Firenze PIAZZA V. S. LUCIALucia O Pucci VIA GIOVANNI BOVIO Z T: 055 2396039. Map D3 VIA PALESTRO sul Prato VIA DELL'ALBERO natural waxes, are all selected with care. All the objects are developed, includingVIA MARSALA one-off items and P. BATONI VI A DELL’ALLORO OLI Chiesa Polimoda Santa Maria V IA D E L L A S C A L A VIA DEL GIGLIO Parrocchiale VIA ZANETTI AN LOREN CAS Maddalena dei Pazzi phases are supervised in the workshop: from the VIA ANTONIO SCIALOJA themed collections. Some of his works are displayed V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI PIAZZA Teatro Papiro (Il) Sacro Cuore VIA FERDINANDO MARTINI V I A G I O V A N N I A N T O N I O S O G L I A N I VIA MONTEBELLO PIAZZA VIA DE’Niccolini MARTELLI V I A R I TADDEO GADDI B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I SANTA ORGO S folding of the sheets by hand to the delicate phase at the nearby Treasury of the Grand Dukes in Palazzo VIA DEL MEZZETTA V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O B VIA DEI SERVI Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces IA DE’ CONTI VIA CIRO MENOTTI MARIA V VIA DEI BANCHI VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova of hand stitching, to the application of the cover Pitti. www.alessandrodari.com. Open Mon-Sat VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI LO FARINI objects drawing their inspiration from the VIA BRONZINO NOVELLA VIALE GIUSEPPE MAZZINI V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E L A I V V AI M A N N E L L I LI Santa Maria della V. G . B . using N I C C O L I N I various styles. www.abacusfirenze.com. Open 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via San Niccolò, VIAL. MAITANI INEL Battistero D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera Florentine tradition of marbled paper (diaries, V. DELLA CASA Pergola VIA GIAMBATTISTA VICO VIA DELLE VIABELLE DONNE di San Giovanni Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di V. DEL TREBBIO NA VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA Santommaso Tempio Maggiore Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. Via 115/r. T: 055 244747. Map G6 VIA BRONZINO DEI RON LUIGI CAR address books, photo albums, articles for the desk) Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo V. D'aquino VIA DEI PILASTRI A Israelitico PIAZZA VI Sinagoga VIA CAPO DI MONDO V. DEL GIGNORO Antinori VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI VIA DI MELEGNANO PINTI dei Macci, 50 (Santa Croce district). T: 345 3280318.GUGLIELMO VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti in additionV. CAMPANELLA to a line of classic leather accessories. VIA DEL MEZZETTA VIALE ETRURIA L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A Chiesa FIESOLA V. FRA' SARPI Chiesa dei V. DELL'ORIUOLO VIA SANT'EGIDIO di San A OBERDAN Angela Caputi Giuggiù VIA DEL SOLE Santi Michele I VIA G. LEOPARDI VIA PIETRO COLLETTA PIAZZA V Map L4 VIA TITO SPERI Paolino V.CANONICA www.ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open Mon-Sat 10am- e Gaetano VIA

VIA GIOVANNI ANTONIO DOSIO ECCHIETTI V A AMI . A N Z O N I ROMA OSUE' CARDUCCI V I A L U C A L A N D U C C I COSTUME JEWELLERY DI SAN V V. I The brand is renowned VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO A V I A P I S A N A V. DEI CORSI BONIZZI V. DEL CAMPIDOGLIO VIA DEI TOSINGHI I VIA DELLE OCHE VIA DELLA SPADA DELLO B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I B O R G O VIA DEI PEPI G V 1pm/2pm-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Via C. Cavour, 49/r. SALVI IA VIA DEL PORCELLANA VIA DI MEZZO MATTONAIA LUNGARNO AMERIGO VESPUCCI O V Antico Setificio Fiorentino throughout the world. Sophisticated, original DE' A VIA DEL PONTE SOSPESO L

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GAZ Badia Borghese VIA LAMBERTI VIA DI SAN SALVI FEDERIGA Porta San Frediano Palazzo Corsini delle dei Lombardi PIAZZA A PIAZZA FRANCESCA V I A D I M O N T E O L I V E T O DEI CERCHI Fiorentina VIA GHIBELLINA Mercato di MONA al Parione Poste M I Museo sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and as a focal point, capable of creating a look or Ponte E VIA FRA' PAOLO SARPI VIA S. ONOFRIO Sant'Ambrogio CESARE BECCARIA semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items

VIA BORGO SAN FREDIANO LUNGARNO CORSINI VIA PELLICCERIA D del Bargello CAVALCAVIA DELL'AFFRICO alla Carraia O R O N G I G L E D A I V V. V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O VIA FERDINANDO PAOLIERI V I A V I N C E N Z O G I O B E R T I Palazzo Bartolini Palazzo VIA PORTA ROSSA VIA DELLA CONDOTTA VIA VIGNA VECCHIA lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www. dressingVI A VINCENZO up any CHIARUGI type of garment. A magical V I A P I S A N A Basilica di Salinbeni to provide coverings for walls, framed items and VIA DEL PARIONCINO Teatro Verdi AM V. D. VENEZIANO Santa Trinita Davanzati Loggia del VIA GIUSEPPE VERDI Chiesa PIAZZA L O V I PIAZZA O IT VIA DI MONTE OLIVETO Chiesa L VC.PANICO V. DEL LA BURELLA VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO VIA EL VIA PIERO DI COSIMO VIA Porcellino V. CALIMARUZZA DI SAN FIRENZE VIA DEI PEPI anticosetificiofiorentino.com.Cattolica Parrocchiale Open Mon-Fri blend of contemporary and classical taste. www. G R LI S. Frediano SO D PIAZZA I DE EL Santi V IA D E L F IC O V I A G H I B E L L I N A furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style LEON PIAZZA AS PIAZZA VIA DELL'ANGUILLARA S. Maria Degli Angeli SO LE T Chiesa in Cestello Museo IC I PARTE BAR Simone e Giuda VIA BENOZZO GOZZOLI L VIA TORTA R ERME DELLA SIGNORIA Palazzo DE’ NERLI M GUELFA O BATTISTA Parrocchiale Santissimo Salvatore O Complesso 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via L. Bartolini, 4. O V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open V I A D E L L A C H I M E R A RDA VIA VACCHERECCIA SS Gondi VIA DE of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates Croci sso a Monticelli BORGO SAN FREDIANO Ferragamo IO di San Firenze I IA F Chiesa VIA GIACOMO ZANELLA A V.D.B PACCI D ALBERTI VIA PISANA D. CH LL'ANGUILLARA VIA DEIV. SANTI APOSTOLI R della VIA S. GIOVANNI LUNGARNO GUCCIARDINI T: 055 213861. Map B3 Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm.V I A A R E T I N A Via S. Spirito, BORGO DEI GRECI O Archivio di Stato entire made-to-measureSacra Famiglia residential projects all C VIA CA PIAZZA Palazzo Vecchio V. GIOVANNI DA VERRAZZANO VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO NTA MARI C Santi Apostoli A DEI SALTERELLI Loggia LUNGARNO DEGLI ACCIAIOLI A CH 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open S BELLOSGUARDO IASSO DEI VIA DELLA NINNA T An teatro e Biagio dei Lanzi VIA CORNO PIAZZA DI over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon- V I A L E A L E A R D O A L E A R D I N V I A G H I B E L L I N AGalleria Romanelli V I A G I O T T O VIA DEL LEONE

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’ VIA VINEGIA VIA DELL’ORTO BORGO DELLA STELLA Santa Trinita VIA DEL LEONE V BORGO ALLEGRI Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, BORGOVIA SANTO DEI GEPPI SPIRITO V IA D IS A N G IU S E P P E ICI The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down PIAZZA Palazzo ELL T D V I A P I S A N A . Santo Stefano S VIA DI SOFFIANO V I A D I M O N T E O L I V E T O Gucciardini VI Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4 DEL CARMINE V.d. MAGALLOTTI al Ponte RU 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6 Torre degli Amidei PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA DEI NERI EI precious sculpture artwork for six generations in Palazzo della Missione Uzi VIA DEI MACCI VIA DELLE CASINE PIAZZA DEL PESCE VIA GIROLAMI DEL GRANO A D CHE Basilica di V I A A R E T I N A LU VI V IA P IE T R O T H O U A R VIA DOMENICO BURCHIELLO DE' FRESCOBALDI NGARNO NTO San Remigio BRA VIA DEI BENCI Santa Croce di Firenze VIA SANTA MONACA Chiesa VIA DELL'ORCAGNA V. GHERARDO STARNINA A Chiesa V I A F R A ' G I O V A N N I A N G E L I C O San Jacopo AR LLE V I A G I O V A N N I L A N Z A PIAZZALE DEGLI UFFIZI E Ponte Vecchio CH ELLANI Evangelica San Giuseppe D CHI IB A Palazzo USIERI VIA DE Metodista VIA DEL GHIRLANDAIO BORGO SAN IACOPOP.TTA DEGLI AST VI Cappella Pazzi VIA DELL'OLIVUZZO Macchiavelli VIA DELLO SPRONE C BE VIA DI CAMALDOLI VIA DEI SERRAGLI TERIA d. GU I N Chiesa di ANGIOLIERI OSCA ERI BORGO SANTA CROCE VIA ● M LIA Santa Maria del Carmine Cassetti Boutique V. OS VIA SANT’AGOSTINO VIA DEI SAPONAI VIA E VIA MAFFIA VIA DEI VAGELLAI VIA DI ROCCA TEDAL DA I V I A D E I M A L C O N T E N T I VIA DEL LEONE PIAZZA Parrocchiale S. Antonino A Bellariva MAG VIA ALESSIO BALDOVINETTI SIN VIA PIAGENTINA DEI GIUDICI NC Basilica di Santo Spirito VI A D EI BARBADORI C O R A V. DEI VELLUTINI Rolex PIAZZA VIA V. LUNGARNO GENERALE DIAZ MALENCHINI, A. S O D E I T I N T O R I C PIAZZA MENTANA VIA DI V.SCANDICCI DUCCIO BUONINSEGNA VIA DE BARDI E V I A A R N O L F O V VIA VIA TOSCANELLA Biblioteca Nazionale TORQUATO TASSO IA DEI VELLUTI VIALE DELLA GIOVINE ITALIA V I A A R E T I N A PIAZZA LA MÉNAGÈRE V. SPRONE Giardini di Bellariva Centrale di Firenze DELL Santi Vito e Modesto SANTA FELICITA PIAZZA DI SANTA VIA DEI BE VIA DELLA CHIESA MARIA SOPR'ARNO IA VIA D'ARDIGLIONE A R N O PIAZZA V A delightful concept store that includes a shop with design V. M. MINGHETTI SANTO SPIRITO L U N G A R N O D E L L E G R A Z I E V I A T R I P O L I VIA DE' GUICCIARDINI Chiesa PIAZZA DEI V IA QUINTIN O SELLA VIA DELLA BELLARIVA VIA DEL CAMPUCCIO PIAZZA PIAVE San Felicita V I A CAVALLEGGERI SDRUCC. DEI PITT FRANCESCO DE SANCTIS V I A E N R I C O D E N I C O L A COSTA DEI MAGNO LUNG objects for the home, a florist’s, in addition to a restaurant and D E B A R D I LUNGARNO DELLA ZECCA VECCHIA V IA D E L F IL A R E T E C O ARNO TORRIGIANI Torre della Zecca ST Ponte VIA GAETANO PILATI V. DEL MADONNONE A SAN Palazzo VIA MAGGIO VIA TOSCANELLA alle Grazie a bistro. Located right in the city centre, in the space that was VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO I Guadagni VIA DEL CAMPOFIORE LUNGARNO PECORI GIRALDI V I A G N VIA MAZZETTA I O R once occupied by the first Florentine household item shop, it N GIO LI L U N G A R N O D E L T E M P I O CASELLINA V. DEI PRETI V. MARSILI V IA F A B R IZ IO D E A N D R E E VIA DI BELLOSGUARDO VIA DI S. FRANCESCO DI PAOLA VIA DEL PRESTO DI SAN MARTINO VIA VILLANI Ex monastero combines industrial and recycled materials and design objects TA S N S C A A R N O L.CRISTOFORO COLOMBO VIA GIANOVIA DELLA BELLA delle Convertite (1330) PIAZZA O R LUNGARNO CRISTOFORO COLOMBO VIA GE NERALE CARLO ALBERTO DALLA CHIESA C P U C PIAZZA O C S E C N A R F A C R A R T E P E L A I V C L U N G A R N O S E R R I S T O R I DEI PITTI I A for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. O Chiesa di V I A DE’ R VIA DEL CAMPUCCIO San Felice D E B A R D I MOZZI T in Piazza VIA DEI RENAI VIA DELLE CALDAIE Palazzo Pitti PIAZZA I E COSTA P GIUSEPPE Ponte Ponte E L U N G A R N O C E L L I N I B E N V E N U T O San Niccolò Giovanni da Verrazzano L S POGGI I A Teatro Goldoni AN GIORGI V V I A R O M A N A S. Niccolò Sopr'Arno

VIA DEL CASONE VIA DI SAN NICCOLO' Porta San Niccolò

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◗ Cassetti Boutique Rolex ◗ Fani Gioielli V I A D E L L A F O R N A C E V IA D E I B A S T IO

VIA Ponte Vecchio, 29/r Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r

DE www.lamenagere.it

Giardino Corsi PIAZZA

Official Retailers in Florence T: 055 2741044 T: 055 212075L PIAZZA L U N G A R N O F R A N C E S C O F E R R U C C I

M VIALE GIUSEPPE POGGI

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Via de’ Ginori, 8/r. RAVENNA

www.cassetti.it www.fanishops.it FRANCESCO E N

Giardino Bardini ALLE C

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Villa Dell’Ombrellino I FERRUCCI

T: 055 0750600. OGGIO BRACCI V I A D I V I L L A M A G N A

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V I A R O M A N A OCI

V. M O N A C H I V I A G I A M P A O L O O R S I N I

Forte di Belvedere PIAZZA

Chiesa di San Pier Gattolino DRESDA

VIA IPPOLITOVIA PINDEMONTE VIA DI BELVEDERE PIAZZALE VIA NICCOLO' DA UZZANO

Giardino di Boboli OLIN V I A D I V I L L A M A G N A

VIA ERTA CANINA ERTA VIA MICHELANGELO Giardino dell'Iris PONTE A VARLUNGO

SAN NICCOLO’VIADEIB WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 O I www.wheretraveler.com 28 VIA RICORBOLI V I A C O L U C C I O S A L U T A T I 29

PIAZZA V I A D E L L E N A Z I O N I U N I T E O N A I C S U R I D A I V VIA L V V. G. BANDE NERE DE . GAVINANA G.

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VIA DI SCANDICCI RO V AI D RI PI O L I I A

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V I A R E I M S I C O I NLEONARDO Porta Romana VIA FRANCESCO BOCCHI L ONI

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Chiese Parrocc. Corpus Domini VIA DEL BISARNO O

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VIA ERTACANINA VIA DI PORTA ROMANA

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Giardino della Scuderie Reali E Parco Della

V IA L E M A C H IA V E L L I Liceo Artistico L Cimitero Villa di VIA AUSTRIA Statale di Porta Romana I

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VIA DEL BOBOLINO Palazzo dei Vescovi

ELIA DALLA COSTA VIA DEL BANDINO

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Chiesa di San Piero in Palco A VIA UNIONE SOVIETICA

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V I A G I R A M O N T E RBOSA

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VIALE MACHIAVELLI LLO V I A D I R I P O L I GA

VIASANTADI MARGHERITA AMONTICI

ARCETRI V. P. TACCA

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SCANDICCI Presidio Ospedaliero Firenze Centro Piero Palagi DI BADIA A RIPOLI O

VIA DELL E V I L A L I V AI S A N M A R C E L L NI O E L G A

VIA MARCO POLO

V AI B E N E D E T T O F O R T NI ,I

VIA DEl PARADISO

DUE STRADE

VIA MARCO POLO

V I A G I O V A N N I A G N E L L I

VIA GIOVANNI AGNELLI

VIA DI SANTA MARGHERITA A MONTICI

VIA DELLE CINQUE VIE

A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE

GALLUZZO

A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE SHOPPING [ RINASCENTE]

7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. Map C4 The best shopping Ugo Poggi It came about in Florence in the early 20th century as a producer of silverware, porcelain, glassware and furnishings. After a century, now in its third generation, today the brand proposes a sophisticated production of luxury Florentine hand-crafted items for the home: from precious crystal chandeliers to bone china A fresh spin on the classic bucket bag, this BOTTEGA VENETA crockery, to a precious selection of antique tote features ayers applications on contrasting ‘intrecciato’ nappa and a flat, silverware. No longer just internally produced round bottom. A revisiting of the classic bucket bag with a fresh and youthful design. furnishing accessories, but also historic Italian and top quality international brands. www. ugopoggifirenze.com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 26/r. T: 055 Annamaria Cammilli 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via 216741. Map E3 A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3 it has been present with its creations in shop Vacheron Constantin Boutique Massai Orafi windows and display cases all over the world for In the unique and exclusive setting that is Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for watchmaking design house in the world, founded field of Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique techniques of the past it produces unique, drawing inspiration from nature and the floral is also known for the tabernacle with a painting rigorously hand-made pieces and is a point of world. www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon of the Madonna with Child and Saint John that reference for Florentines and others besides. 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via marked the presence of an ancient oratory of the EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the workshop is Vacchereccia, 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4 Holy Sepulchre, which came under the control a unique experience: on the top floor of a of the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. Aprosio 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and master goldsmiths have practised the ancient Vecchio, 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5 creates jewellery accessories and products for fretworking, carving and engraving traditions In the heart of Florence, decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano typical of the Florentine goldsmithery art. and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open www.massaiorafi.it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm- LEATHER just a few steps away 7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. Cuoieria Fiorentina from the historic treasures of the city, Map F4 T: 055 210127. Map E2 From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition you will find Rinascente: the ideal place of the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], Cassetti 1926 Officine Panerai typical of this area of Tuscany, here unique, to find the best in fashion, accessories, In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of inimitable products are created with extreme care Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique beauty, home and design. and top-quality natural materials. A vast range fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a boasts a unique design and a strong identity that of leather handbags, travel bags and accessories And don’t miss the top floor with the studio that develops innovative projects with its Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced (belts, wallets, briefcases…), for him and for her, own artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A offering excellent value for money. Another strong Terrazza bar & restaurant. 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. space on the first floor is devoted to special sales point is the personalization of the products, Map F5 and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the historical Museum; on the organised to satisfy the tastes and requirements Damiani ground floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ of customers, who can count Michelle Obama Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a disposal to carry out repairs and share his passion among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina.it. long goldsmithing tradition which it has always with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai.com. Open Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Shoppers will find items of the best Italian more mouth-watering sweet and savoury >> Rinascente interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza San Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map and international brands. A large area culinary delights, all distinct for choice www.rinascente.it refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2 Gianni Chiarini spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Established in the 1990s, this brand is the is devoted to women’s fashion which ingredients and exquisite packaging. jewellery. Their collections are realized by master Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. expression of ancient artisan wisdom in the includes a vast and prestigious range in both All products at the Food Market can be goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte T: 055 219113 creation of contemporary bags and accessories, tradition and admired throughout the world. www. Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: classic fashions as well as the latest trends. packaged in one of our elegant Gift boxes. with an idea of pure design. A fresh, modern Piazza della Repubblica. Map F3 damiani.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am- the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with Special attention is also given to men’s wear Should you need some advice, you can and cosmopolitan brand, but at the same time 7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map three display tables; the first floor has two rooms sophisticated, which has its roots in the heart where shoppers can choose from formal make an appointment with one of our E4 for reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped customer care centre, where qualified of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open attire to smart casual wear. personal shoppers that are at your disposal Dodo Rolex technicians are available to look after the Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna every day to help you put together a The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3 precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily The constant arrival of new brands, unique fantastic food hamper. by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. Il Bisonte or collection purposes. It sells an array of animal commodities and the latest products Map F5 Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came charm pieces, each of which has a particular exclusive to Rinascente makes the store the On the top floor you can enjoy a spectacular about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion meaning. www.dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Tiffany & Co. for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in focal point for your high-end shopping in view of the Duomo while having a drink at la Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. Located in the luxury shopping street par Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully T: 055 2741573. Map E4 excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed the city. Terrazza bar & restaurant: at lunch you can in one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, enjoy a menu that includes pasta dishes of Fani Gioielli wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories There is plenty of space inside for gold and The Food Market on the fourth floor is the day, the renowned pappa al pomodoro Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, silver fashion collections, such as ’Tiffany City epitomising the best of Tuscan workmanship. Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest The brand’s key focus is on materials, including a space dedicated to the best Made in (tomato bread soup), Caprese salad, Niçoise and luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, design its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after Italy gourmet food and a selection of the with tuna, boiled egg and Greek olives with vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso most sought-after international produce. cucumber, feta cheese and black olives, prestigious jewellery brands, including Pomellato, and rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open The choicest pasta, delicious sauces, tasty raw meat and fish, sandwiches with fresh Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex watches. www.tiffany.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del

and Tudor retailer. www.fanishops.it. Open Mon Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4 SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE appetizers, luxurious chocolates and many ingredients and seasonal produce.

30 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 31

SHOPPING

ASPESI AQUAZZURA DR. VRANJES See page 25. See this page. See this page.

PASSION SHOPPING glass and melamine collections are enhanced Valli Tessuti Alta Moda every year with new models with colour shades A reference point in Florence that offers its AquaFlor ranging from white to black to transparent, clientele the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by A perfume shop with the charm of past times, to brighter colours such as fluo. Its products the most beautiful haute couture collections. The dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture are particularly appreciated by important store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought- of perfumes made using natural and rare raw international personalities such as the Princes of after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter materials, personalisable through the choice of Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, Steven and ceremonial attire both for men and women, fragrances. A studio run impeccably by maître Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. Its but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. vallitessuti. parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - www. boutiques are characterized by total white walls com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm- with niches where the accessories are exhibited, della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. T: 055 282485. Map D3

7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. T: 055 2343471. Map as in a museum. It has several sites in Florence:

H5 Por Santa Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am- SHOES Dr. Vranjes 1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm). Flagship Aquazzura Home fragrances and elegant furnishing Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the accessories made by hand in Florence for more 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. Map D3 luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories a typically European refined aesthetic sensibility and the headquarters of the Florentine home Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica with modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura fragrance company founded and managed by di Santa Maria Novella shoes have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy stars, European royalty and fashion insiders around cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna in Europe (established in 1221), the Officina the globe. www.aquazzura.com. Open daily 10am- Maria. In addition to the traditional production Profumo-Farmaceutica is housed in a part of 7pm. Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the the Dominican convent complex of Santa Maria 291242. Map D4 brand has diversified its production with linen, Novella and has been open to the public for over cosmetics, perfumes and gift boxes, also giving four centuries (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, a strong Florentine identity to the packaging, beauty products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, SHOPPING CENTER inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes.it. Open sweets and chocolates) are sold all over the I Gigli Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7pm. world in 75 single brand stores and represent a 20 kilometres from Florence, the I Gigli shopping Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • Open production par excellence on account of their centre stretches over a surface area of 72,000 Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via della quality raw materials and centuries-old handicraft sq.m. with 134 shops by important Italian and Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3• Open Mon techniques, with the aid of modern technologies. international brands, including some exclusive 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm- The frescoed monumental environments - Sales to Tuscany such as Apple Store, 18 restaurants 7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: Room, Green Room, Ancient Apothecary and and bars, a 16-screen Multiplex Cinema, events, 055 241748. Map l3 Sacristy - have been returned to their former splendour thanks to restoration work. www. entertainment and services for adults and kids. La Ménagère smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della igigli.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 9am-9pm. CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store of Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2 Via San Quirico 165, Campi Bisenzio (Florence). around 1500 square metres that includes a shop with T: 055 8969250. Off Map design objects for the home, a florist, in addition to The Merchant of Venice a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city NEW The new boutique is structured into STATIONERY centre, in the space that was once occupied by the a vast range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de first Florentine household item shop, it combines Toilette, completed by products for personal Pineider industrial and recycled materials and design objects care, for the environment and accessories. Artisan savoir faire since 1774 in the universe of for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. The essences are contained in packaging with paper, writing and leather goods. Tradition and www.lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am. Via de’ designs inspired by the glassmaking tradition design are the distinctive features of this brand, Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1 of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store which is unique worldwide: from the printing of provides a personalized layering service. www. precious and embossed paper to articles made of Marioluca Giusti themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Thurs fine leather, to elegant writing instruments. A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat www.pineider.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. design objects for the table and more besides, in a 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. Piazza de’ Rucellai, 4-7/r. T: 055 284656. style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal T: 055 216559. Map E3 Map E3

34 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018

5674_VOV_Turismo_207x277_SETT.indd 1 25/07/18 16:18 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

LUGANO best local food and wines are on offer. MENDRISIO Open daily 10am-8pm. BERGAMO BRESCIA • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana NOVARA TRIESTE Florence, in MILANO Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t TORINO FERRARA and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to PIACENZA MAR Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GENOVA Castel GuelfoADRIATICO BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger Under Armour FORTE destinations and many others. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI MAR LIGURE LUCCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet PISA the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIA playground, the possibility of recharging your SAN GIMIGNANO? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of SIENA ?Outlet Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it PERUGIA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.ROMA Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives TIRRENO direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectNAPOLI bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door by Value Retail and one of The Bicester Village office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Shopping Collection® Villages: a place where • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. hospitalitySARDEGNA makes the shopping experience Valdichiana Outlet Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance memorable. The Village is located in the Emilia- With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footwear) featuring your favourite brands Romagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, daily 10am-8pm. surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience unique hospitality at the core of the services and is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, with over 130 boutiques of the world’s leading savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year to 70% off ), including Versace, Armani, Missoni, round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located Calvin Klein, Diesel, Paul Smith and Michael Kors. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

36 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 37 FOOD&WINE FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM Classic. To find out where Pescecane will be amidst little tables and large windows. Huge FOOD SHOPS stopping, check the website www.pescepane.it. selection of over 380 makes of rum, unique in the Galanti It recently opened “La Cucina di Pescepane” in via whole of Florence. Open from lunch to after- Delicatessen and wine shop. Classic dishes as well Carducci, where you can find the same specialities. supper, also hosts events. cafe1926firenze.com. as soups, pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, chicken Open Tues-Sun 12 noon-3pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 30/r (Sant’Ambrogio district). galantines, to eat in, under the porticoes outside Via G. Carducci, 3 (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2346296. Map L2 or to take away. Wide selection of wines and T: 055 2344397. Map L3 home-made jams. Everything made with extra- Enoteca Bonatti Pugi virgin olive oil and prime quality ingredients. Opened in Florence in 1934, this family-run Florentine’s favourite bread shop since 1925. www.gastronomiagalanti.com. Open Mon-Sat wine shop offers a wide selection of wines and Known for its schiacciata (a type of sponge cake), 8.30am-8pm. Piazza della Libertà, 31/r. T: 055 spirits from all over Italy and abroad, with a reputed to be one of the best in town, in classic or 490359. Off Map particular focus on France. www.enotecabonatti. rustic versions, and for delicious stuffed focaccia, it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am- Giumella pizza, fritters and a vast range of breads and 1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via V. Gioberti, 66-68/r. VEGAN With recipes based on the products pastries. www.fornopugi.it. Several locations: Piazza T: 055 660050. Off Map of the Florentine countryside, this delicatessen San Marco, 9/b. T: 055 280981 (open Mon-Sat offers organic zero miles food, made the same 7.45am-8pm; Via San Gallo, 62/r. T: 055 475975 (open Signorvino day. Recipes with cereals and legumes, seeds and Mon-Fri 7.45am-3.15pm); Via G. Orsini, 63-65. T: 055 In the heart of the city just steps from Ponte seasonal products. Among the specialties: reseitan 689763 (Open Mon-Sat 8.45am-7.45pm). Off Map Vecchio, the shop has a choice of 1500 labels of – stone-ground Tuscan durum wheat semolina selected wines from the best Italian cantinas, with water, salt and lentils – plus vegan cheeses WINE SHOPS applying the same formula used in its 15 outlets based on walnuts, almonds, sunflower seeds, oats across the country. It also does simple quality or rice flour. www.giumellavegan.it. Open Mon-Fri Caffè 19.26 food from the various regions. The terrace has a 10.30am-8pm. Via Lorenzo di Credi, 12/r. This bistrot in the Sant’Ambrogio district does a wonderful view of the Arno and Ponte Vecchio. T: 393 8221084. Off Map selection of Tuscan wines, Italian spumanti and www.signorvino.com. Open daily 9.30am-midnight. champagne, served in a Bohemian atmosphere Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. Map F5 Pegna With over 150 years behind it, this shop has become part of Florentine history. Just steps from the Duomo, a historic drugstore with all kinds of Tuscan, Italian and international specialities: rare cheeses, salumi and prosciutti. Plus a vast choice of wines and imported products like spices, coffee, tea and chocolate. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. pegna.it. Via dello Studio, 8. T: 055 282701. Map G3

WWW.ALESSANDROMOGGI.COM STREET FOOD

Antico Vinaio

PHOTO © If when walking along Via de’ Neri you happen to come across a queue of people with a hungry air, there can be no doubt: they are waiting for a schiacciata at the Antico Vinaio. Just a stone’s throw from Piazza della Signoria, it is considered among the best street food available in Italy: its filled schiacciata and boards of Tuscan cured Biscottificio Mattei, the cantucci king meats, accompanied by a glass of Chianti, are eaten at the counter, on stools or walking around In the heart of Florence, a museum-shop where you can buy and taste the legendary dry almond biscuits Florence. €. www.allanticovinaio.com. Via Dei Neri and discover the history of the firm that has been manufacturing them for 160 years now. By Sophia Bertoli 65/r. T: 055 2382723. Map G5 Cucciolo PASTRY SHOP Bar-patisserie in Via del Corso, The perfect place for here are foods that are so inherent in the Prato, in the Province of Florence. Mattei won The space includes a small shop where you famed in the city for more than 40 years for its collective culinary culture that they are numerous awards for his creations; then, in can purchase and taste all the Biscottificio’s “bomboloni” (fried doughnuts) baked on the spot, an out-of-town stop taken completely for granted, as if they 1908, he passed on the activity to Ernesto products; in addition to the cantucci, these dunked in sugar and filled with cream or chocolate. Good, genuine food, a relaxed yet classy style and the magnificence of the Italian countryside T Worth a visit just for the show: the freshly made had always existed. Have you ever wondered Pandolfini, who had worked with him for a include “Filone Candito”, “Torta Mantovana” all around you. There is everything you’d expect from Tuscany at Chiosco ai Renai, a rural bomboloni are carried up from the kitchen on a who invented pizza, or spaghetti? Probably long time and continued to demand the same and “Brutti Buoni”, to name but a few. ramp in full sight before depositing them directly eatery where it is possible to enjoy the tastes of the tradition, good wine and also a choice not; you eat them (and enjoy them) and that’s quality level as the founder, also extending Enthusiasts can accompany the Mattei in the sugar. Open Tues-Thurs 7.30am-10pm; Fri- of original cocktails. With a garden with panoramic views and an internal dining room, enough in itself. The same happens in Italy the range of products for sale over time. products with a good cup of coffee provided Sun 7.30am-midnight. Via del Corso, 25/r. the place is a reference point for those looking for tourist information, for those wishing T: 055 287727. Map G3 with cantucci, those very famous Tuscan The Pandolfini family still runs the Biscottificio by the Antica Torrefazione Padovani di Prato, to purchase a selection of organic products or for those hoping to come across a small art almond biscuits that, when combined with Mattei today, and now they have celebrated while the sacrosanct combination of “Cantucci Pescepane exhibition or to listen to a little live music. But, above all, it is an adorable place to stop by the Italian dessert wine Vin Santo, have found its 160 years of activity by opening a small and Vin Santo” is guaranteed by the wines FISH Panini, fish & chips, mozzarella in fried yourself, with your partner, family or friends, amid hammocks and tables, wine glasses and their supreme vocation and what in Florence museum/shop in the heart of Florence, at Via of the Marchesi Antinori, traditional partners bread, fried fish … all some of the specialities chopping boards, with Tuscany all around you. Lunches, aperitifs and snacks are all served of this itinerant Street Seafood food truck. The and the surrounding area forms the perfect Porta Rossa, 76. In this welcoming, almost of Mattei for over 50 years now. over the course of the day. The eating place is located in Castelfiorentino, around 30 delicious and creative menu varies each day conclusion to any meal worthy of the name. domestic space, where simplicity and elegance depending on the availability of ingredients, kilometres from Florence, in Val d’Elsa; it is also known as “little Florence” on account of its In this case, however, we know with 100% reign, it is possible to visit the historical >> Bottega-Museo Antonio Mattei using sustainable and high quality produce, often strategic importance in Florentine history and its wealth of architectural heritage. certainty who invented them. archive of the Biscottificio Mattei and the Via Porta Rossa, 76/r. organic, with vegetables of the season and home- Chiosco ai Renai. Castelfiorentino (1 hour from Florence) - Via del Vallone, 34. It was Antonio Mattei who baked the first Pandolfini family, with records, photographs, T: 055 0136203. made sauces. Apart from the great food there Mob. 329 8938692 is the visual appeal of the historic Italian Apecar cantuccio, in 1858, in his biscuit factory in memorabilia and the packaging of yesteryear. www.antoniomattei.it

38 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 39 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM TUSCAN CUISINE seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, prices, combining traditional dishes based fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for 13 Gobbi Trattoria com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. In the heart of the old centre just steps away from the 2341100. Map L3 €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 Lungarno, the Trattoria 13 Gobbi occupies a historic 0750600. Map F1 building where it offers authentic reinterpretations Cibrèo Trattoria of the most genuine Tuscan recipes. Among the A few yards from the Cibrèo Ristorante (see listing), Latini (Il) specialities of the house, rigatoni (served in a if you turn the corner, you find the trattoria that Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted traditional stoneware tureen) and the inevitable the Florentines call “Cibrèino”. Here you will find in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, bistecca alla fiorentina. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/ a substantial Tuscan menu, not very different from there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, trattoria-13-gobbi. Via del Porcellana, 9/r. T: 055 that of the restaurant, but with an atmosphere and a as well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are 284015. Map D3 service that are more informal and at decidedly lower Florentine tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef cost. Remember that it is not possible to book in stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well Benedicta advance here, so take into account that you will have stocked with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which to wait a while before being seated to eat. €€. www. and non, as well as the big French labels. €€€. www. the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl cibreo.com/trattoria. Via de’ Macci, 122/r. Map L3 illatini.com Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, D3 inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan Da Burde cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and Locale Firenze based on locally sourced ingredients that changes the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient every two months depending on the season. Open livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. building where by just descending a few steps 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent you can travel - like in a time machine - from the October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. value for money, the atmosphere has remained that Renaissance to 13th-century Florence, to the wine €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich cellars that conserve Roman remains. It is possible to T:055 2645429. Map D2 in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails, Piedmontese wines but also French, including some accompanied by small snacks, or stay for dinner with Bordino Trattoria fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always 12/r. T: 055 9067188. Map H3 crowded with both locals and tourists because of its Fuor d’acqua quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are The cuisine of the Tuscan tradition also includes fish Lungarno23 traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly dishes. And in this restaurant in the historic centre you In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of can find the true taste of the sea thanks to the fish that this restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, arrives daily from Viareggio. The quality raw materials hamburgers, which are certified with the I.G.P. relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via are cooked in the essential way, as in the Catalana mark and come from small local farms. Forget the Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5 and paccheri alla Trabaccolara and the main courses image of fast food, because here the hamburger based on the day’s catch. €€€. www.fuordacqua.it. Via is accompanied by fresh ingredients, hand-made Cammillo Pisana, 37/r. T: 055 222299. Map A3 sesame seed bread, freshly fried potatoes and A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte browned onions. €€. www.lungarno23.it. Lungarno HOTEL PHOTOGRAPHY SRL Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) IO Osteria Personale Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. Map G6 menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, L’Ortone

PHOTO © pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, modern tavern that has a preference for the products district, opposite the charming street market, the the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, Map E5 of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and something more adventurous you can’t go wrong Cibrèo Ristorante seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. with the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto Irene, a cuisine with a woman’s touch In Florence and in the area near the Market of Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4 onions. €€. www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating 87/r. T: 055 234 0804. Map L4 Simple, genuine flavours for a menu inspired by the classics of the Tuscan tradition, with a wholly female well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and La Ménagère lightness and elegance as the watchwords. By Chiara Zaccarelli regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, Maccheroncino (Il) fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design Those who don’t eat meat in Florence might Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the encounter a few difficulties, but luckily there are also of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable some excellent fish restaurants. Il Maccheroncino rene is the grandmother of Lydia Forte, at Rocco Forte Hotels and Irene’s daughter. Sited pomodoro and Tuscan pecorino cheese” or in Restaurant & Bar Development Manager at inside the historic Hotel Savoy, recently renovated, “Seafood grill cooked on Himalayan salt stone”. IRocco Forte Hotels, who has personally handled it looks out onto Piazza della Repubblica in the the concept of the restaurant. Irene is an elegant heart of Florence. The vintage 1950s atmosphere, >> Irene Restaurant c/o Hotel Savoy. L’ORTONE woman, an excellent cook and a perfect host and with prints and fabrics in the tones of green and Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 27351. L’Ortone is in Piazza Ghiberti, opposite the charming the bistro bearing her name inevitably had to be yellow, blends perfectly with the contemporary www.roccofortehotels.com Sant’Ambrogio street market. The menu draws inspiration from a celebration of femininity and its many facets. style of the chandelier, composed of coloured Tuscan cuisine (painstakingly revisited) and offers a wide choice «The cuisine is a story of women» – underlines chef cylinders. The menu, created by Fulvio Pierangelini of antipasti, first courses and grilled specialities, including of Fulvio Pierangelini, inventor of the dishes at Irene and translated into practice by Head Chef course the bistecca alla fiorentina. Opened in 2014, it has always – «We men have appropriated this intimate place Giovanni Cosmai, is based on high-quality local relied on young but expert and professional staff. A good mix and, even though we’ve been successful, we are and seasonal raw materials, interpreted with of elegance and sobriety. Open daily. still intruders. It’s the women who hold the beauty great respect. Obviously the choice of dishes of the gesture». inevitably makes reference to the personality The bistro is a family story, a story of generations of grandmother Irene. Her feminine, irreverent www.lortone.it working together, combining tradition and touch is expressed to the maximum in “Red Piazza L. Ghiberti, 87/r. modernity, and it is no coincidence that its retro- prawns tatare, ricotta cheese and artichokes”, T: 055 2340804. chic design is by Olga Polizzi, Design Director in “Homemade ravioli stuffed with pappa al

40 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 41 DINING DINING Top hotel restaurants

Tradition, innovation and creativity: Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, 16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most Se•Sto on Arno Where® highlights some culinary among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 destinations to whet your appetite made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also www.westinflorence.com in several top hotels in Florence. locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant offers international dishes. Local flavours and seasonal products for a By Jasmine Piazza occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it Ristorante La Loggia unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor moves poolside to the winter garden. c/o Belmond Villa San Michele of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by Relais Le Jardin www.belmond.com sweeping picture windows that make the most of c/o Hotel Regency This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the the unique position and breathtaking view over Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 visit just for its magnificent position looking over the city. www.regency-hotel.com Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities and classic Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge Italian dishes. Villa La Vedetta mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens c/o Villa La Vedetta onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa www.villalavedettahotel.com dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 Just moments away from the Piazzale such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking Hostaria Bibendum fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused highest quality. famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products Borgo San Jacopo sophisticated ambiance of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, c/o Hotel Lungarno an aristocratic 18th-century palace, recently renovated and Trattoria al fresco. Ristorante La Chiostrina antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 and restored to its former splendour. c/o Bernini Palace fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and options too. www.borgosanjacopo.com Irene Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Hostaria Bibendum c/o Hotel Savoy hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are Winter Garden by Caino Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant c/o Helvetia & Bristol Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 One of the most elegant and sophisticated flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, egg, c/o The Saint Regis Florence is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 www.roccofortehotels.com restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan dishes. Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using www.starhotelscollezione.com Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle www.wintergardenbycaino.com fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century building with an extraordinary collection of art Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Peter Brunel, accompanied by collector wines palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred from a cantina of 900 labels. a penchant for local producers and ingredients. Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Flora & Fauno fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local Piccini and executive chef Michele Griglio. Their c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi and seasonal products. menu shines an innovative spotlight on the Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honey- wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from www.hotelvillesullarno.com lacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic Facing the river and immersed in the lovely with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with c/o JK Place Firenze Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 and lampredotto to more refined proposals offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country www.jkplace.com like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas Il Conventino a Marignolle Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically eyes and palate, in particular their original take on in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining tiramisù. the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. times sticking to tradition. wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, La Cucina del Salviatino Golden Restaurant vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes c/o Il Salviatino Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 seasonal products from the estate or the nearby www.salviatino.com www.goldentowerhotel.it countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump links to the local territory and the seasons, with a card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of Il Palagio prevalence of meat courses, though there is no the ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic Intimate and refined atmosphere, with high class Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero furnishings and fittings. www.ilpalagioristorante.it food miles. A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside Gourmet Restaurant and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant Le Bistrot c/o Sina Villa Medici whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional c/o Villa Cora Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 www.sinahotels.com ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine www.villacora.it Tuscan specialities in a fabulous setting. A mix with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park of culinary tradition and fancy comprising types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic reinventions of fine Tuscan cuisine, in the 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant Gourmet Restaurant

42 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 43 DINING DINING Michelin-starred restaurants

Bottega del Buon Caffè Il Palagio Ora d’Aria Borgo San Jacopo

In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with Winter Garden by Caino its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are seven other Florentine dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds c/o Hotel Saint Regis of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 Piazza Ognissanti, 1 restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. T: 055 27163770 By Sophia Bertoli www.wintergardenbycaino.com La Leggenda dei Frati Steeped in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the in Villa Bardini (Costa San Giorgio) Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Winter Garden by Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a Caino has come about from the creative liaison Borgo San Jacopo Enoteca Pinchiorri T: 055 0680545 between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef c/o Hotel Lungarno Via Ghibellina, 87 www.laleggendadeifrati.it Michele Griglio. Their menu brings the territory’s Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r T: 055 242757 Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa great cuisine back to the limelight in an innovative T: 055 281661 enotecapinchiorri.it San Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda way, with elements from every part of the globe, www.borgosanjacopo.com How do you manage to be honoured with dei Frati. A breathtaking view over Florence and ranging from classic Tuscan dishes for strong Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants on the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which refined proposals, such lobster tail on topinambour Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, in this case too draws its inspiration from the local and mandarin cream. Also the desserts, particularly In this case the winning recipe is one that blends it comes from the winning combination of prime tradition, with a propensity for quality meat (the the ’Diversamente Tiramisù’, are a joy for the eyes creativity, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet boiled sausages and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), and the taste buds. in sea water or Bresse rooster and octopus are without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary but also for vegetables picked directly from the Winter Garden by Caino an example of this), all washed down with wines tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an restaurant’s own vegetable and herb garden and chosen from a cellar of 900 labels. You can opt unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized for the hand-made bread using flour from ancient for the tasting menu (the potato-based one is labels, along with others that are little known but grains. unmissable) or à la carte. equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century Ora d’Aria Bottega del Buon Caffè Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a Via dei Georgofili 11/r Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r delight for the senses. T: 055 20016 9 T: 055 5535677 www.oradariaristorante.com www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Il Palagio An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. Zero food miles products gathered from the organic c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in Borgo Pinti, 99 he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s the Florentine countryside, meat reared by local T: 055 2626450 throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that farms and fresh fish. These are the strong points of www.ilpalagioristorante.it impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at the Bottega del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s shadow of the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef environment with tables both indoors and recipes but tending towards a more creative Antonello Sardi proposes a cuisine based on the use outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can of seasonal ingredients, with a predilection for herbs proposal that looks to the Italian and regional delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon and spices to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the tasting menus include gems such as amberjack of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and "tapas" formula allows you to try a selection of small served in three ways (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts home-made cappelletti with pigeon, butter and Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French La Leggenda dei Frati Enoteca Pinchiorri thyme. of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times labels and a highly select menu of beers.

44 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 45 DINING DINING

fagioli all’uccelletto, but also monkfish and squid. €€. private room guests can also dine on tatami. €€€€. touchflorence.com. Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. www.kokorestaurant.it. Piazza F. Ferrucci, 4/5 r. T: Map I3 055 6587428. Off Map The “fiorentina” Tuscani 3 (I) Momoyama Florentine foods termes One of Florence’s historic Japanese restaurants, If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and where alongside the classic sushi and sashimi there ’Lampre…’ what’s that? Florence has a multitude of culinary specialities of delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located are rolls with creative combinations, soups, raw meats and fish, chicken teriyaki, udon and other hot peasant origin that are still very popular in the city today. Some are so niche in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the dishes, in the tradition of the Rising Sun. Located as to be unknown outside Florence, let alone to foreigners. So we’ve decided typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections over the Arno in the cool San Frediano district, to put together a glossary of Florentine food terms to help you find your of Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare on weekdays at lunchtime it turns into a noodle way among the soups, animal parts you never thought you could eat and and hamburger made rigorously with Chianina bar. €€€€. www.ristorantemomoyama.it. Borgo S. distinctive eateries. By Chiara Zaccarelli Ribollita meat. €€. http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri Frediano, 10. T: 055 291840. Map D4 18/r.T: 055 285356. Map F4 Rooster Firenze cuisine” containing liver, chicken hearts, genuine dish, including the kids. So much Zeb NEW OPENING A new arrival in the Rooster crests, eggs, lemon juice and onion. Even so there’s even a popular children’s song all Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo family, which already boasts one American-style though presented like that it seems to be an about it. and the , Zeb - highlighted by bar in the city. The concept is that of the restaurant/ the Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional cocktail bar, just a few steps from Piazza della inauspicious mixture, it is famous for having Tuscan dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, Repubblica, serving classic American meals such been one of the favourite dishes of Caterina RIBOLLITA lampredotto, meat balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny as hamburgers, ribs and BBQ, using prime Tuscan de’ Medici, who attempted - unsuccessfully Another delicious country dish typical of Buca Mario place, the diners eat at the bar, like a delicatessen ingredients, preferably organically sourced. €. www. - to export it to France and it seems she was Florence and the whole of central Tuscany (actually, its former identity). There is a large roosterfirenze.com. Via Porta Rossa, 63/r. T:055 selection of Italian wines, with a special focus on 2645006. Map F4 so fond of it that it gave her indigestion a is ribollita, a soup made of stale bread, kale Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of small local producers. €€. www.zebgastronomia. number of times. and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or cannellini). the most iconic dishes in Florence com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 2342864. Map H6 PIZZA ’Ribollita’ literally means boiled several times. cuisine. But be careful: to recognize LAMPREDOTTO The name derives from the fact that in the the original and tell it apart from the CANTINE O’Munaciello hundreds of impostors, there are Housed in a 17th-century monastery in the historic This is Florentine street food par excellence. old days peasants used to make a large pot Antica Mescita San Niccolò a few tips you need to know. Santo Spirito quarter, it recreates the atmosphere But watch out, it’s not for weak stomachs. and serve it, heated up, over a number of Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD of a Naples street, complete with hanging washing Actually it’s a cow’s fourth stomach, known days, each time tastier than before. Romanesque crypt? In Florence you can, at the and masks typical of Neapolitan Commedia Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which also used dell’arte. Besides wood oven pizzas, here you can Lampredotto as the ’abomaso’, cooked in a herb broth and with unwritten rules that the visitor to serve as a customs post for wine originating most commonly served in a panino soaked try other traditional Campania dishes, with products needs to know to avoid falling foul from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is excellent and from small producers and consortiums situated in the broth or topped with the local parsley- of the restaurant owner, paying over predominately Tuscan and the food also reflects along the coast. Every Wednesday night there’s CANTUCCI based green sauce. Historically a poor man’s the odds and to make sure they get the season and the local territory, with dishes such live music (Neapolitan). €. www.munaciello.com. Via This is one of the best-known cake recipes dish, it is still very popular in Florence today the real thing. as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, bistecca Maffia 31/r. T: 055 287198. Map D5 in Tuscan cuisine. The finger-shaped almond thanks to the numerous open-air kiosks alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just a few. WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, 60/r. Pizza Man biscuits are made by slicing up a long roll known as “lampredottai”, doing a roaring from a specific cut of a young Chianina T: 055 2342836. Map H6 Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan of baked dough while still hot. The dough trade with Florentines as well as tourists who cow, a part of the loin near the backbone school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten- is made with flour, sugar, eggs, butter and can’t wait to try this speciality, accompanied which has a T-bone in the middle. Buca Lapi free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional It should be grilled at a very high This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special raw almonds, not toasted or shelled. Tuscans by the obligatory glass of wine. Crafted out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance temperature, so that a fine crust forms dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a fortified Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves traces of over €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. T: 055 rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this local wine called Vin Santo made from dried PAPPA COL POMODORO a century of history thanks to the meticulous 2480200. Map H4 dish depends on the cooking: the meat grapes. You can find them in any bakery or On the face of it this is just another variant restoration of the internal frescoes. Buca Lapi must be brown on the outside but red, is particularly popular with lovers of the real Pizzaiuolo (Il) local foods shop. of bread and tomatoes. But until you’ve tried soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan dishes are Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is this soup made of stale bread (unsalted), cooked through. This is the first vital rule: worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the CIBREO tomatoes, garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan a fiorentina must be eaten rare. boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via del pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality A dish for strong stomachs, Cibreo is a olive oil, salt and pepper, you’ll never guess Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3 in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. Pappa col pomodoro HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan typical main course of Florentine “poor how good it is. Everyone loves this tasty, thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 Buca Mario tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts kgs, although bigger steaks are easily For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via available. And here is another sore point. famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3 Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine is a small seafood bistro located outside the tourist San Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina casatrattoria.com/trattoria-marione. Via della Spada cuisine (although you can still request a private Pizzeria Spera circuits, in the Rifredi neighbourhood. Fish dishes traditions of the past, all about long cooking by weight. An average price to be sure of 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 room for up to ten people in classic 16th-century One of Florence’s favourite pizzeria’s even won the according to availability and typical products of the times and essentials, starting with the study of old getting the real thing is around 50 euros Florentine style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is world’s pizza championship a few years ago. This cuisine of Le Marche are prepared here with fresh Opera cooking texts found on the second-hand book a kilo. excellent, as is the ribollita or pappardelle with simple and intimate little place just outside the old and seasonal ingredients. €€. www.ilmaccheroncino. Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few stalls and based above all on homemade pasta and WITH. The traditional accompaniment is Maremma boar ragù. €€. www.bucamario.com. centre serves a light crispy pizza with a choice of it. Via Reginaldo Giuliani, 43/r. T: 388 7575928. Off steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera traditional soups, as well as pork products. €€. www. different types of bread dough and a full range of usually cannellini beans, washed down Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: 055 214179. Map D3 Map restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and badaliosteria.it. Via dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. quality toppings. €. www.pizzeriaspera.it. Via della the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. Map H6 with a glass of Chianti. Marione Trattoria Cernaia, 9/r. T: 055 495286. Off Map In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music WHERE. Here are four restaurants where INTERNATIONAL The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in background of the most important operas, you can Touch Bistrò Toscano Santarpia you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. & ETHNIC CUISINE the historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs In a room decorated with blue and brown hand- illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. taste the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine of the hotelier institute have made their dream a Koko painted tiles, the wood oven turns out pizzas made by barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, cellar deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm- reality by opening this bistro that favours the use com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) Sophisticated chic and fine Japanese cuisine off with choice, slow-rising flours, tomatoes from taglierini with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and 10.30pm; closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. of seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ the main tourist circuits. Besides the classic raw fish Vesuvius and mozzarella from Campania cheese Tuscan cured meats are among the most popular Via Maso Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2 market of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of ristorante-perseus-firenze). dishes (vast selection of tartare, carpacci, sushi and makers. All accompanied by craft beers or wines dishes. If you go at the weekend it is advisable the same name. The menu, which gives a touch of (C.Z.) sashimi) Koko’s particular speciality is teppanyaki – from small producers. €. www.santarpia.biz. Largo to book in advance, because there is usually a Osteria Badalì freshness to the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among various ingredients cooked on an iron griddle. In the Pietro Annigoni, 9/c.T: 055245829. Map L3 long queue of people waiting outside. €€. www. Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, other things, ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and

46 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 47 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM (more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, and French toast. Designer atmosphere. www. APERITIVI aperitifs and snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other dittaartigianale.it. Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce regional bites. Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte district). • T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. Chiaroscuro Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. (Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5 Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, T: 055 286258. Map F5 Florentines today are attracted by the original Foody Farm and genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and Three Sixty “The right food from the right places” is the motto aperitifs served in a popular bar-cafe furnished From May to September the Grand Hotel of this little restaurant where the quality and with a retro touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro. Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An it. Via del Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3 magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming original and genuine light lunch, with the option pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www. of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, Easy living grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa Maria including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2 and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am (little beach), its location is quite singular: this till midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce strictly summer-only bar is built right on the Zoe district. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r. river-bed of the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, Cocktails and apericena accompanied by hookah, T: 055 242327. Map H5 from where patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif in a bar with essential modern furnishings and with a stunning view of Ponte Vecchio, often with soft lighting. For years a favourite with the Odeon Bistrot live music. There is always a cooling breeze, a younger crowd, always a lively atmosphere in the Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful big plus in a sweltering Florence summer. www. trendy San Niccolò district. www.facebook.com/ little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Poggi. T: 055 zoebarfirenze. Via dei Renai, 13. T: 055 243111. columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from 2341112. Map I6 Map H6 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion BRUNCH cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, Ditta Artigianale 8/r. T: 055 215654. Map E4 surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com. a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving Procacci Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4 competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an institution, and not only in Florence, especially Il Locale best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened for its truffle-based specialities and impeccable Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, selection of wines. Combines a gourmet food located in a small street not far from the Duomo. serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) shop and wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere, Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate ranging from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3

Il Rifrullo In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo.com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6

Moyo Antinori wine experience Aperitifs and light dinner in a locale that offers international cuisine, cocktails and DJ set in The Cantina Antinori in the Chianti Classico region combines an age-old family tradition with an avant-garde a modern and stylish setting, a landmark of Florentine nightlife. www.moyo.it. T: 055 2479738. structure, for an immersive experience going far beyond simple wine-tasting. By Chiara Zaccarelli Via dei Benci, 23/r. Map H4 Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue mmersed in the extraordinary Chianti cellar and the elegance of Antinori wines. that combines modern furnishings and frescoed landscape, amid gentle hills, endless Various tasting itineraries are available: ceilings. The sight of the Arno at dusk always Ivineyards and old olive-groves, the Cantina from the simpler one, for those approaching attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Antinori in the Chianti Classico Region the world of Marchesi Antinori to the more Corsini 14/r. T: 055 289810. Map E4 welcomes you with its ultramodern architecture complete one, which includes a tasting of Rooftop Bar La Terrazza and all the ancient know-how of the Antinori seven wines and lunch at the “Rinuccio 1180” Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio Flying over Tuscany furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at Marquises. About 45 minutes by car from restaurant, located on the roof of the Cantina. If you happen to only be in Florence for a weekend, why not opt for a panoramic the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of Florence, this low environmental impact, To complete the visit, it is possible to visit the the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel. ADVERTORIALtour from a different perspective, perhaps in a hot-air balloon? Balloon in Tuscany, a high energy-saving structure overlooks the “Futuro Antico” space, where a part of the family com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4 company recognized by the Associazione Aerostatica Toscana, offers its guests itineraries surrounding countryside where Sangiovese collection is exhibited. lasting between 45 and 90 minutes flying over some of the region’s most unmissable Se·Sto on Arno grapes are grown (together with the other The Antinori Family has been dedicated to The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs destinations, including cities of art and charming landscapes. Various launch points – varieties of grape that have historically been producing wines for more than six hundred every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large located in Florence, Siena and San Gimignano, as well as in the heart of the Chianti hills placed alongside them). Here it is possible years now, managing the activity with innovative terrazze provide a 360° view over the marvels – enable you to personalize your itinerary to the maximum, at the same time enjoying the to experience delights of the senses by choices, but maintaining an unchanged respect of Florence. www.westinflorence.com. Piazza exhilaration of flight, the beauty of unprecedented scenery and the discovery of historical Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3 immersing yourself in an itinerary that is for the traditions and for the territory. and cultural landmarks guided by pilots who are experts on the locations. architectural, gustatory and emotional at the Signorvino www.balloonintuscany.com same time, revealing the majesty of the wine >> antinorichianticlassico.it This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines

48 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 49 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT

with delicious snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm Santa Croce, and hosts all genres of performance. Visarno Arena (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic venue in the Inaugurated in 1854, since 2000 it has been owned It is located inside the Ippodromo Visarno heart of Florence. www.procacci1885.it. Via de’ by the Orchestra of Tuscany, which is based there. racecourse, located in Florence in the Parco Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3 www.teatroverdifirenze.it. Via Ghibellina, 99. T: 055 delle Cascine. Surrounded by greenery and with SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY 212320. Map H4 seating for 60,000, the area is the favourite venue Teatro del Sale for major open-air events. Active since 2015, it A region rich in natural thermal springs, Tuscany offers nothing but an Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by Teatro Goldoni has already hosted, among others, concerts by Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand embarrassment of choice from among the numerous structures spread out across the David Gilmour, Massive Attack, Einsturzende patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity territory, particularly in the areas of Siena and Grosseto. In addition to the famous Neubauten, Sting and Duran Duran, but also the co-founder, president and artistic director Maria to Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre. 2015 and 2016 editions of World Refugees Day. and historic Montecatini and Chianciano, full-blown health towns, there are more Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly Oval-shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over www.visarnoarena.it. Parco delle Cascine (approx. “discreet” structures, often associated with resorts, offering a different experience of original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a four orders, the theatre experienced a period Bagni San Filippo two kilometres from the Central Station of Santa fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and of abandonment. After a lengthy restoration, relaxation and wellbeing. Here are some suggestions. (E.P.) Maria Novella). Off Map Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), it returned to its original pomp in 1998, with a dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed historical design by Italian director and actor Luca price of 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. Via Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria, WELLNESS Bagni San Filippo www.adler-thermae.com. Strada di Bagno metabolism of the blood vessels. dei Macci, 111/r. (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6 Bené SPA A small town not far from the slopes of Vignoni, 1. San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). Grotta Giusti, www.grottagiustispa.com. 2001492. Map I3 Teatro del Maggio This 5-star luxury Villa Cora spa is found on the Mount Amiata, famous for millennia for its T: 0577 889001. Via Grotta Giusti, 1411 - Monsummano ground floor of Villino Eugenia and connected The Teatro del Maggio is in the centre, beside sulphur waters, which were used by the Terme (Pistoia). T: 0572 90771. CONCERT VENUES the old city walls, next to the historic Stazione to the main hotel complex by an underground Etruscans, and for the white calcareous Castello di Velona & THEATRES Leopolda (see listing). The garden that welcomes tunnel. It comprises a tepidarium, leisure area, visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after the small gym, sauna, hammam and three large deposits that form the small, spectacular An 11th-century fortress transformed into a San Casciano dei Bagni Teatro Comunale founder of the Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina private cabins for personalised treatments. The hot water falls (48 °C) of the Fosso Bianco. residential villa in the Renaissance, the castle Classified among the “Most Beautiful The Teatro Comunale di Firenze is the city’s crowning glories are two prestigious partnerships: and the Florentine Maggio Musicale. Symphony Unlike the well-being and spa treatment - now a 5-star resort - is located on a hill Towns of Italy”, San Casciano stands on largest theatre. Overall, it occupies approximately concerts and operas are performed in a tailored face treatment products by beauty guru centre, access to this area is free of charge. overlooking the greenery of the Val d’Orcia. a hill immersed in the Siena countryside. half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta contemporary space in a large wood-covered hall. Sarah Chapman; and the body range from the and via Solferino. The main theatre has seating www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. Gui, 1. historic Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Terme San Filippo, www.termesanfilippo. between Sant’Antimo and Montalcino. The Bagno Grande and the Bagno Bossolo for around 1800, but also part of the complex Off Map Maria Novella, founded in Florence in 1612. www. it. Via San Filippo, 23. T: 0577 872982. B&B The indoor and outdoor swimming pools are ancient washtubs where it is possible is a foyer called the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can villacora.it. Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 228790. Il Fosso Bianco, Via San Filippo, 22. T: 392 (and the bathrooms of some of the rooms) to bathe freely, while there are indoor and hold a little under 600 spectators. The name Stazione Leopolda Off Map “Comunale” [Municipal] dates back to 1933, when Inaugurated in 1848, it was Florence’s first railway 3449596. Bagni San Filippo (Siena). use water from a nearby thermal spring outdoor baths, wellbeing treatments and the Florentine Maggio Musicale was established station: it was decommissioned, and today has Firenze Number Nine originating on Mount Amiata. a splendid resort at Fonteverde, sheltered (see entry), but the theatre itself dates back become a sought-after venue for meetings, This 4-star spa presents itself as an “Urban Bagno Vignoni Castello di Velona Resort Thermal SPA & by a magical garden with views of Mount Wellness Hotel” that claims to be “the only city to the second half of the 19th century. www. conferences and various events. A versatile, This tiny ancient stone village has one Winery, www.castellodivelona.it. Località La Amiata. operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16. T: 055 27791. multifunctional space, it has its name associated centre spa under original 15th-century vaults.” unique and unforgettable characteristic: Velona, Montalcino (Siena). T: 0577 839002. Fonteverde. www.fonteverdespa.com. Map B2 with the recent history of Italy, being the venue of A 400-square metre spa offering a full range the event that launched the career of Florentine of treatments, open every day, also to outside at its centre is Piazza delle Sorgenti, an Località Terme, 1 - San Casciano dei Bagni Teatro Verdi politician Matteo Renzi. www.stazione-leopolda. guests, though the under 16’s are not admitted. ancient pool measuring 49x29 metres (not Grotta Giusti (Siena). T: 0578 57241. The largest "Italian-style" theatre in Tuscany Very well known, among Florentines too, is com. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. T: 055 212622. for bathing) where the spar waters are The spectacular Grotta Giusti, on the is located in Florence, in the historic district of Map A1 the Arya Beauty & Comfort Zone, again linked to the hotel (but closed on Tuesdays). www. collected, gushing out at a temperature of outskirts of Montecatini, is a natural cave Saturnia - Cascate del Mulino firenzenumbernine.com. Via dei Conti, 9. T: 055 52 °C and shrouding the village in evocative that winds its way among stalactites and Among the most beautiful free thermal 293777. Map F3 steam during the cold months. stalagmites to a stretch of crystal clear baths in the world, the Cascate del Mulino Four Seasons SPA Albergo Le Terme, www.albergoleterme.it. water, the temperatures of which vary are small natural pools supplied by small A Four Seasons standard spa right in the heart of Piazza delle Sorgenti, 13. Bagno Vignoni di from 27°C to 34°C. Above all mud therapy waterfalls that form a unique, unrepeatable Florence. Ten body treatment cabins, a spa suite, San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 887150. and balneotherapy are practised there in environment. Next to them, the Terme di plus open-air pool. Exclusive treatments like the Spa Resort Hotel Adler Thermae. baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the Saturnia complex has spring water pools, Chianti massage and Tuscan cypress scrub are just the start of your wellness journey. Treatments a wellbeing centre and a 5-star resort. for teens and children also available. The super- Cascate del Mulino, www.cascate-del- modern fitness centre is located in the quiet of mulino.info. Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf the Gherardesca Garden. www.fourseasons.com. Resort, www.termedisaturnia.it. Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 26261. Map L1 Località Follonata, Saturnia - Manciano Golden Beauty & SPA (Grosseto). T: 0564 600111. This extremely stylish facility in the historic centre of Florence offers a Turkish bath, emotional Terme di Petriolo showers, hydromassage, sauna and treatment zone plus expert care and advice. Part of the The thermal baths are sited on a natural 5-star Golden Tower hotel, but also open to spring in the Valley dell’Ombrone, along the outside guests as the beauty centre annex every course of the River Farma. The waters, rich day from midday till 8pm. www.goldentowerhotel. in salts, gush out at a temperature of 43 °C it. Piazza Strozzi, 11. T: 055 287860. Map F4 and are traditionally used to treat various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. www. Il Villino SPA termedipetriolo.it. Strada Provinciale di A historic villa, completely renovated in 2014, the new Hotel Ville sull’Arno 5-star luxury boutique Petriolo, Monticiano (Siena). resort is very popular with Florentines. The Villino Petriolo Spa Resort, www.atahotels.it/ THE FLORENTINE MAGGIO MUSICALE is a unique spa, studded with original details, hotel/petriolo-spa-resort. Località Bagni di The Maggio is Italy’s first musical festival and since 1933 it was offered high-quality luxury materials, and hand-made decorations Petriolo, Frazione Pari, Civitella Paganico by Florentine craftsmen, offering a wide range Bagno Vignoni operas, concerts, dance shows and theatre events. The orchestra and the festival now (Grosseto). T: 0577 1606059. of treatments, from hydromassage to the ice live under the artistic direction of Zubin Mehta. www.operadifirenze.it cascade. www.planetariahotels.com. Lungarno C. Colombo, 1/3/5. T: 055 670971. Off Map

50 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 51 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ALL CONTRIBUTIONS RELATED TO Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by MUSEUMS AND EVENTS ARE BY Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings Elena Peverata series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing created between the 17th and 19th centuries and an important collection of self-portraits by great artists Lifestyle & Culture one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s including Filippo Lippi, Rembrandt, Velázquez, Editor David: the one on display in its original position Delacroix and Ensor. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Where® Italia is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Uffizi, 6. T: 055 294883. Map E6-E5-F5-G5 Galleria dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4 Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli Palazzo Vecchio The symbol of wealth and power, the building Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat was inhabited by the Medici in the period of their of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest maximum splendour, then by the Habsburg- ATTRACTIONS synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its family. The original architecture dates back to the & MONUMENTS imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first Duomo and Cupola its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors owner. The building is located Oltrarno (on the Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people. left bank of the river), at the foot of Boboli Hill. It Florence was the largest Christian church in the www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della is from the latter that the famous Boboli Gardens world. Today the religious building, whose official Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 take their name; they are one of the most important name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is examples of Italian-style gardens in the world Ponte Vecchio third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in and are considered a genuine open-air museum There has been a bridge at this point of the River Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The on account of their admirable architectural and Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, most important artists of the period participated landscaped layout and their collection of sculptures, between floods and reconstructions, the official in its creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while attracting approximately 800 thousand visitors a date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is the famous multi-coloured marble façade dates year. Currently they are the site of four different given as 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge back to the 19th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste known all over the world: it is possible to climb to Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. www. and Costume. They are connected to Forte di when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5- Belvedere. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they 6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. have been there uninterruptedly to this day. To Map E6 Battistero celebrate this history, on prominent display on the Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del bridge is a bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest Piazzale Michelangelo Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the goldsmith of the Renaissance. Access is gained Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and building that completes the considerably striking to the bridge between via Por Santa Maria and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, Lungarno degli Archibusieri and between Borgo San views seen all over the world in million of postcards but its first official dating is at least in the 12th Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 and reproductions. The design of the square century. It is characterised by an octagonal plan, dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital Corridoio Vasariano lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access to passage the entrance to which is at the beginning characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then Romanesque period. It has three famous doors, lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, sumptuously decorated, and an interior that, with the monumental flight of steps known as the its marble and mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in antiquity for the investiture of The work of a whole lifetime knights and poets, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. FIRENZECARD One of his best known works has come to symbolise the rebirth of Ground Zero: Fritz Koenig, among the it. Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2

greatest contemporary sculptors, is celebrated by the Uffizi with a major retrospective. By Elena Peverata Campanile di Giotto 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation of 14th-century Florentine Gothic or 28 years, his “Große Kugelkaryatide”, the works of the last forty years of his life. This architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of known by all as “The Sphere”, was mirrored is a unique opportunity to admire the bronze, the four main components of the complex of on a stretch of water between the two stone and corten steel of Koenig’s imposing Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. F TONI OTT Lined with white, red and green marble, like that skyscrapers in the Plaza of the World Trade sculptures amid the spaces of that Italian-style adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square- Center, a symbol of world peace and trade. garden par excellence, glancing at the precious based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, Perhaps Fritz Koenig’s best known work, found interweaving of their forms – whether smooth PHOTO © can be visited by climbing no less than 414 among the ruins of the terrorist attack damaged or rough, apparently unstable but in reality in a stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy but not destroyed, it was returned to the WTC studied imbalance – and the hedges, large trees extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www. ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: in 2017, a few months after its creator’s death. and lawns of Boboli: a backdrop of panoramas as 055 2302885. Map F3 Firenzecard costs €72, allows access to 72 museums and is valid for 72 hours from Among the most important sculptors of the unique as Renaissance paintings. the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one Piazza della Signoria twentieth century, Koenig is now celebrated of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: This is the central square of Florence, the seat of with a major monographic exhibition, the first >> Fritz Koenig 1924-2017. The Retrospective civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on since he passed away, with a large number of his 21 June-7 October. www.uffizi.it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south the Firenzecard circuit works being hosted in the magnificent green The exhibition is included in the tickets of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman • Priority access to museums without needing to book spaces of the Boboli Gardens and the rooms of of the Uffizi and the Boboli Gardens. Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over • 72 hours available the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio the Uffizi, from the monumental sculptures to The Uffizi, Piazzale degli Uffizi www.firenzecard.it (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the the drawings, also including, for the first time, Giardino di Boboli, Piazza de’ Pitti, 1.

52 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 53 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

“Rampe del Poggi”, which start from piazza Poggi Santa Croce order. The church has given its name to the santacroceopera.it. , 16 (visitors’ in the neighbourhood of San Niccolò. Map I7 Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo entrance: Largo Bargellini). T: 055 2466105. Map I5 and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, Santo Spirito”, located “Oltrarno”, that is, on San Miniato al Monte Biblioteca Marucelliana a point of reference of the Franciscan order: the left bank of the river. A jewel of Renaissance Palazzo Pitti Museums Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, in via delle A precious archive of rare pieces established a radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes architecture, the church was the last great project Porte Sante, stands the Abbey of San Miniato al between the 17th and 18th centuries by Abbot its sober appearance of wooden trusses and by Filippo Brunelleschi and conserves elegant and Monte, a medieval religious building situated at Marucelli, it conserves 500,000 volumes, terracotta floors to Franciscan charisma. Giotto austere rationality in its architectural plan. In the one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. manuscripts and prints. The ancient reading painted some of his great masterpieces here interior there is also a wooden crucifix carved by a The most spectacular access is gained via the rooms, including the magnificent and spectacular and the French writer Stendhal experienced that young Michelangelo. www.basilicasantospirito.it. monumental flight of steps (which is not advisable, “Salone”, are visitable during opening hours or profound artistic agitation that has been known Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 210030. Map D5 however, for those with problems walking). The with a guided visit (by booking in advance). Open since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The outside of the church is decorated with green and San Lorenzo Mon-Thurs 8.30am-6pm, Fri 8.30am-4pm. Closed basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Sat-Sun, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 25 April, 1 May, 2 Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli and for this while a 12th-century mosaic decorates the Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great June, 24 June, 15 August and 2 weeks in the second reason was celebrated by the Italian romantic poet central part of the façade. The interior, which basilicas” of Florence, founded, according half of August, 1 November, 8 and 25-26 December. Ugo Foscolo as a temple of “italic glories”. www. is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first www.maru.firenze.sbn.it. Via Cavour, 43-45. T: 055 santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 the city’s best conserved original floors. www. bishop of Milan, in the fourth century AD: it is 2722200. Map G1 2466105. Map H4 sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. T: therefore one of the oldest churches in the city. Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana 055 234 2731. Off Map Its current appearance, however, is the result Santa Maria Novella Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and of the last major reconstruction work that took Mercato Centrale Lorenzo (see entry), it is one of the finest examples Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Built at the end of the 19th century in the period of the architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned a point of reference of the Dominican order. Its Medici and under the direction of the great in which Florence was capital of Italy, the Central by Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at foundation dates back to the end of the 13th architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Its bare stone Market is a building of a certain architectural the wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry century but work on it continued for centuries, façade was intended to receive a rich marble merit located between piazza del Mercato is gained by ascending the monumental staircase so the church, with its elegant façade by Leon decoration designed by Michelangelo, which Centrale and via dell’Ariento, via Sant’Antonino designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of unfortunately was never executed. The interior and via Panicale. The project was entrusted to Ammannati in 1559. The stained-glass windows Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church of is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria were created by Flemish craftsmen from designs by Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of art by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by the Vasarian school. The Library conserves approx. by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first floor 11,000 Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www. Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2 of the historic covered market there has been a richly miniated, dating from the 5th to the 19th smn.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria complex containing dozens of small restaurants, century, in addition to papyruses and rare print Novella, 18. T: 055 219257. PHOTO © leisure activities and street food options, and this MUSEUMS & editions. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Closed Map D2-E2 has now become a point of reference for informal EXHIBITION SITES Sat, Sun and holidays. Full ticket price: Basilica + but good quality cuisine for both Florentines Santo Spirito Medici Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di A palace for three dynasties, the Picture Gallery, established between Basilica di San Lorenzo and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2 this extraordinary building (see the 18th and 19th centuries by the Lorena This is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great the oldest (see "Monuments&Attractions"), the Cappella Brancacci Attractions&Monuments) is located in the family, includes the world’s largest T: 055 2399798. Map F1 basilicas”, a point of reference of the Augustinian current appearance of which is the result of the The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The concentration of works by Raphael, as radical renovation begun in 1418 by Giovanni di Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, famous Boboli Gardens, which are the well as paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, house the , a masterpiece that is Bicci, founder of the Medici dynasty. The complex park of the palace, a genuine open-air Caravaggio and Rubens. conserves key works by Brunelleschi, Donatello, universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Michelangelo, miniated codices, sacred Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and museum (see Museo Giardini di Boboli), goldsmithery and paintings from the 15th to the Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they take their name from this hill. Palazzo Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) 20th century, and is structured into the Basilica were left unfinished and were eventually completed Pitti currently contains four different Today the sumptuous environments that by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. Access is (with the Old Sacristy and the Treasure Museum), museums. were once the residence of the Lorena the Medici Chapels (which form a separate permitted to the chapel by groups of a maximum of family house paintings and sculptures, museum, see the relative indications) with the 30 people and the stay time is 30 minutes. You are New Sacristy and the Museum, in the Laurentian advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon- Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground mostly Italian, from Neoclassicism to the Library (see entry). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Closed floor and mezzanine) 1930s, with an important group of paintings Sundays: from 1 March to 31 October 1.30pm- on Tues and 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 July, Conserved in what were the summer by the Macchiaioli school. 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri 5.30pm. Closed: Sundays from 1 November to apartments of the Medici family are 29 February, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 10 and 15 €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione August, 8 and 25 December. Full ticket price: Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. the precious “Treasures of the Medici”: Museum of Fashion and Costume Basilica €6, Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www. comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224- vases made of semi-precious stones, (Palazzina della Meridiana) operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San 558-2382195. Map C5 rock crystals, ambers and ivories, the This museum possesses a stock of six Lorenzo 9. T: 055 216634-214042. Map F2 Cappelle Medicee exceptional collection of Oriental thousand items, including ancient clothing, Basilica di Santa Croce Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state porcelains; there is also the silverware of theatrical costumes and fashion accessories A splendid example of Tuscan Gothic (13th museum, but their history is closely associated with the so-called “Treasure of Salzburg”, an from the 18th century to today, in addition that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they century), it owes its sober appearance, with important collection of jewels created to underwear, jewels and costume wooden trusses and terracotta floors, to the are part (see entry). The museum consists of the between the 17th and 20th centuries, jewellery. Included among the costumes Franciscan order. The Basilica, the cloisters, New Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards the Sacristy, the and the Museum its sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel and a significant section dedicated to are the 16th-century burial clothes of of Opera are all part of the visitors’ itinerary. of the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built contemporary jewellery. Cosimo I de’ Medici, Eleonor of Toledo and using semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where Mention must be made in particular of the their son. sepulchres of Michelangelo Buonarroti and the Medici Grand Dukes and their relatives are Palatine Gallery and Monumental Galileo Galilei, the masterpieces by Giotto (Bardi buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, which, in addition and Peruzzi Chapels, Baroncelli Polyptych), by to the remains of the Lorena family, contains the Apartments (noble floor) Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on UFFIZI GALLERY - LEONARDO ROOM Taddeo Gaddi (The Last Supper, The Tree of Life) funeral monument to Cosimo the Elder, founder The 14 sumptuously furnished rooms of Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Before leaving for Milan in 1482, Leonardo had taken his first artistic steps in Florence in the by Donatello (The Annunciation, Crucifix, Saint of the dynasty. The museum also holds a part of the Royal Apartments offer a fascinating Museum full ticket price: €16 (1 Mar/31 the Treasure of the Basilica: sacred vestments and workshop of Verrocchio. Three precious works from this formative period are held in the Uffizi Louis of Toulouse), by Agnolo Gaddi (Alberti and blend of styles telling of the daily lives Oct)/€10 (1 Nov/28 Feb). www.uffizi.it/ Castellani Chapels) and by Cimabue (the famous magnificent shrines. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm; and now find a new location in the museum’s renovated Room 35, the layout design of which and tastes of the various periods and palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Crucifix). Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm; Sun from 9 April to 4 November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: recalls the walls of the churches of the period for which the paintings were created. www.uffizi.it and holidays 2pm-5.30pm. Closed 1 January, 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the families that lived there. The “Quadreria”, T: 055 294883. Easter, 13 June, 4 October, 25-26 December. www. month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket

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price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/ century fresco by Andrea Orcagna that decorates recognise their technical evolution, the actual city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. musei/2/medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana. its eastern wall, with fragments of a Last Supper museum, with displays of velocipedes, bicycles, Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: org. Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 at the bottom and a superb Crucifixion at the clothing and relics documenting the history of time it has undergone numerous enlargement and 055 219257- 055 282187.Map E3 282984. Map F2 top. The museum houses works donated to the cycling and the feats of Gino Bartali and other transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes Municipality of Florence in 1946 by collector and champions, and finally collections of period are rooms and private environments sumptuously Museo di Storia Naturale - "" Cenacolo di Sant’Apollonia antiquarian Salvatore Romano, a precious collection newspapers, publications and films. Open Fri-Sat decorated by some of the most famous artists of Zoology Section In around 1447 Andrea del Castagno frescoed the of sculptures, fragments of architectural decoration, 10am-1pm, Sun and holidays: 10pm-4pm. Closed the Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings Opened to the public in 1775, “La Specola” is one back wall of the refectory of the ancient Benedictine detached frescos and furnishings of various origins 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. and exceptional masterpieces such as Judith and of Europe’s oldest science museums. It possesses a monastery of Sant’Apollonia (1339) with The Last and from periods between the ancient Roman Free entry. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Holofernes by Donatello, The Genius of Victory collection of over 3.5 million animals (5,000 exhibited Supper, The Crucifixion, The Deposition and The Age and the 17th century. Entry to the Cenacolo Via Chiantigiana, 175 - Ponte a Ema (30 minutes from by Michelangelo and Verrocchio’s Cherub. Open to the public) and the largest collection in the world th Resurrection. Other outstanding frescos by Andrea is gained directly from Piazza Santo Spirito, to the Flemish Astronomical ring dial (ca. 1550) Florence). T: 055 287043. Off Map daily, from 1 April to 30 September: 9am-11pm; of 18 -century anatomical waxworks illustrating del Castagno and paintings from the monastery are the entire human body in every detail (visitable by left of the façade of the church. The museum is from the Medici collection hosted from 1 October to 31 March: 9am-7pm. Thursdays also on display in the museum. Open daily 8.15am- Museo degli Innocenti booking in advance, T: 055 2756444). Open Tues-Sun contained entirely within the vast setting of the at the . throughout the year: 9am-2pm: Closed on 25 1.50pm. Closed 1st, 3rd, 5th Saturday and Sunday Cenacolo. Open Mon and Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli December. Museum full ticket price: €10. www. 9.30am-6.30pm (1 Oct-31 May), Tues-Sun 10.30am- of the month e 1 January, 1 May, 15 August, 25 holidays: 1pm-5pm. Closed 1 January, 7 January, Innocenti, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della 5.30pm (1 Jun-30 Sept). Closed on Mondays and 1 December. Free entry. www.polomusealetoscana. Easter, 16 July, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 as a Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full beniculturali.it. Via XXVII Aprile, 1. T: 055 price: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore it is one of the most famous museums in the world refuge for abandoned children, today it continues ticket price €6. www.msn.unifi.it. Via Romana, 17. T: 2388608/610.Off Map Romano €7. on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The Museo di Santa Maria Novella 055 2755100. Map H1 www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages museum itinerary combines the documentary and The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental Museo Galileo Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of Piazza Santo Spirito, 29. T: 055 287043. Map D5 to the modern age). The collections of paintings Housed in the historic Palazzo Castellani, its unique from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works private architecture of the Renaissance and a Forte di Belvedere Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, collections include ancient scientific instruments dynamic cultural centre that hosts international a number of absolute masterpieces of the art datable between the 11th and 19th centuries, At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ of all time: from Giotto to Simone Martini, Piero Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the EDITOR’S TIP including all of Galileo Galilei’s original instruments. Medici commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Robbia. On the terrace the elegant by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present to design a fortress on the top of Boboli Hill, to Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present One group consists of the collection of instruments are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raphael, of the Medici dynasty, the other of the objects incorporate a villa to be used as a “belvedere” Michelangelo, Caravaggio and Canaletto. There views. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed 1 January, rare examples of the Florentine painting of the the café and the museum shop, which looks out by the Grand Duke’s court. Despite its strategic 25 December. www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza 14th and 15th centuries. The Ubriachi Chapel and subsequently gathered together by the Grand onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, are also important collections by German, Dutch Dukes of Lorraine. Open daily 9.30am-6pm, Tues position, it was never used for defensive purposes; and Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1 ancient Refectory house a permanent exhibition performances, contemporary art installations and however, a vault was created in the underground of gold jewellery, sacred furnishings and liturgical 9.30am-1pm. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and and Rubens. The Museum also houses the famous Museo del Bigallo ticket price € 9. www.museogalileo.it. Piazza dei floors to house the state treasury. The fort currently Department of Drawings and Prints and the Classical vestments, part of the church’s ancient Treasury, plus holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open The headquarters of two ancient benevolent a series of paintings. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm Giudici, 1. T: 055 265311. Map G5 full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. Piazza Antiquities Collection. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am- institutions, the Compagnia della Misericordia and exclusively on the occasion 6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 (from 1 April to 30 September); 9am-5.30pm (from 1 Museo Giardini di Boboli Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3 f temporary exhibitions. Full ticket price: €3. the Compagnia del Bigallo, the so-called Loggia October to 31 March). Fridays throughout the year: December. Museum full ticket price: €20 (1 Mar-31 del Bigallo is a complex the construction of which Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous Fondazione Salvatore Romano www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Oct)/€12 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli open from 11am. Saturdays throughout the year Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7 was begun in 1352. A precious record of the history 9am-5.30pm; Sundays and Holidays 1pm-5.30pm. The museum is housed in the ancient Cenacolo Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5 of Florence, the museum conserves wonderful responsible for designing their layout, creating (14th century) of the convent, built beside the Closed on 25 December. Full ticket price: €7.50. the model of the Italian-style garden that was to Galleria degli Uffizi Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze frescos from the 14th century, including the Virgin church of Santo Spirito, the ancient function of The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and of Mercy (1342), presenting the first famous view which is recalled by the imposing fourteenth- The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence second floors of the large building erected between of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the of Florence and precious panels from the 14th and Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous 15th centuries. Access only for pre-booked guided David, transported here from Piazza della Signoria visits (T: 055 288496): Mon-Sat 10am, 12 noon, 3pm; (where it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August Sun and holidays 10am and 12 noon. Free entry. 1873. Housed in the adjacent premises, which were www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza San originally two convents, are works coming from the Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Map F3 Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and Museo dell’Opera del Duomo the convents themselves, which were abolished in The Museum houses works designed and built for the Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Bell Hall of Models, the collection of Russian icons and Tower and the Baptistery: it is a unique collection, musical instruments of the courts of the Medici with masterpieces by Arnolfo di Cambio, Ghiberti, and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am- Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Antonio Pollaiolo, 6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, Verrocchio and Michelangelo, in addition to 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €8. www. paintings, goldsmithery, liturgical vestments, galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli ancient work tools, models and architectural , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2 projects. Open daily 9am-8pm. Closed: 1st Tuesday Galleria Rinaldo Carnielo of the month, 1 January, Easter, 25 December. Single Conserved in the townhouse in Liberty style that ticket for the Museum and all the monuments of the Duomo (Dome, Baptistery, Giotto’s Bell Tower): €18 was the home-studio of Rinaldo Carnielo (1853-1910) SHUTTERSTOCK.COM are over three hundred sculptures by the artist (online). www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del and a number of paintings by artists who were his Duomo, 9 (ticket office Piazza San Giovanni, 7). T: 055 2302885. Map G2 contemporaries, such as Silvestro Lega, Michele PHOTO © Gordigiani and Arturo Calosci. An exponent of late Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure 19th-century commemorative statuary, Carnielo An elegant collection of works made of semi- had close relations with the environment of the precious stones and multi-coloured marble and An evening with Michelangelo Macchiaioli, of whom he was a friend and passionate scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, Every Tuesday and Thursday in summer, the Galleria dell’Accademia in Florence extends its collector. Museum temporarily closed to the public. instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone opening hours to 10pm, enabling you to stroll among its many masterpieces feeling cooler and www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza samples. The works are displayed in chronological Savonarola, 3. Off Map order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open more relaxed. This important museum owes its huge popularity to the presence of a number of MUSEO DEGLI INNOCENTI sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above all the famous David, an icon Gino Bartali Cycling Museum Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and This new museum - which was the first orphanage in Europe (15th century) - opened to the The museum is located at Ponte a Ema, the locality holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli of Florence, the symbol of male beauty and perfection. The one on display at the Accademia public in 2016 and combines art, architecture and the history of Childhood all together. where the great cycling champion Gino Bartali Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1 is the original work, and was moved here for its protection in 1873 from Piazza della Signoria, Its museum itinerary is developed around the theme of welcoming. was born and began his competitive career. The Museo di Palazzo Vecchio where it was replaced by a faithful copy. Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze. Open until 10pm, building, completed in 2006, contains a store of www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, until 25 September. Via Ricasoli 58/60. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it cycles from various periods, enabling visitors to or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the

56 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 57 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Museo Stefano Bardini adorned the niches outside on the four sides of A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant the imposing stone cube are conserved in the EXCLUSIVE FLORENCE MAP museum on the first floor. On the second floor you in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated Sunday 2 September: free admission ® his private collection to Florence, where it was can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria by Where Italia displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building (formerly del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. the church and convent of San Gregorio della Pace) Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. to State Museums Hand-drawn with Indian ink and watercolours, using the that housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over Museum of Sculptures (first and second floor): open 2000 items there, including sculptures, paintings Mon (10am-4.50pm) and Sat (10am-12.30). Free ‘bird’s eye view’ technique. Illustrator Mario Camerini is currently and objects of applied arts, from ancient art to entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/ working on reproducing remarkable maps of Italian cities. that of the 18th century, with a major presence of orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 works from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. 2388606. Map F4 Among its most significant works are St. Michael the Archangel by Antonio del Pollaiolo, the Madonna of Four centuries of the history of art, architecture and the Ropes by Donatello and Guercino’s Atlas. Open collections in a single building, one of the most Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Closed on 1 January, beautiful in Florence; built in the mid-15th century Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket by Michelozzo at the wishes of the Medici, it is the price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via prototype of Renaissance civil architecture. Its jewel dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427. is the , which you enter by climbing the Map G6 elegant seventeenth-century staircase. Open daily Museo Stibbert 8.30am-7pm. Closed on Wednesdays. Via Cavour, 3. One of the most fascinating and unusual places T: 055 2760340. Map F2 in Florence, it is a Neo-Gothic castle built by Porcelain Museum Frederick Stibbert (1838-1906) with exceptional Housed at the top of the Boboli Gardens, in the 18th- collections, including weaponry, art objects and century Palazzina del Cavaliere at the centre of the everyday items from European, Islamic and Far Rose Garden, are the collections of table porcelains Eastern civilisations, particularly Japanese, portraits, of the ruling houses that succeeded each other but also great masterpieces by Botticelli, Crivelli, at Pitti Palace, representing Italian and European Bronzino, Suttermans and others. Eclectic taste production: from the Manifattura di Doccia, founded characterises the sumptuous private apartments by the Ginori family, to the porcelains of Sèvres and and the park, decorated Meissen. For address, opening and closing times, with groves, pavilions, THE MAP CAN BE PURCHASED IN TWO FORMATS. see Museo Giardini di Boboli. Map F7 statues, artificial ruins SHUTTERSTOCK.COM 140X100cm or 70X100cm. €100 + courier costs and a small Egyptian Santa Maria del Fiore temple. Open Mon- The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria Botticelli Room, Galleria degli Uffizi

[email protected] Tues-Wed 10am-2pm; del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout PHOTO © Fri-Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. the world, are a single large open-air museum, Closed on Thursdays, a unique combination of art, faith and history Every first Sunday of the month, more • Museo di Casa Martelli 1 January, Easter, located in the city’s main square, the religious, become an example for many European courts. than 450 museums and archaeological via Ferdinando Zannetti, 8 Museo Novecento 1 May, 15 August, historical and artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo Populated by ancient and Renaissance statues, The Museum is housed in the ancient Spedale 25 December. Full (Santa Maria del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, sites across Italy open their doors to the • Museo di adorned with grottos - including the famous di San Paolo (13th century), which was later the ticket price €8. Visits the Baptistery of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower public free of charge. Florence, like many via Porta Rossa, 13 Buontalenti Grotto - and large fountains, such as Scuole Leopoldine (18th century). Dedicated to the are run every hour (see all in "Attractions&Monuments"), together those of Neptune and the Ocean, they are a genuine other cities in the country, has joined • Museo di Orsanmichele Italian art of the 20th century, it offers a selection of for accompanied, with the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo open-air museum. The terraced area includes the this initiative promoted by the Ministry via Arte della Lana, 1 around 300 works representing that unrepeatable groups of 25 dell’Opera del Duomo (see entry) are all visitable Rococò pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus and the of Cultural Heritage by offering free • Cenacolo di Andrea del Sarto a San Salvi artistic season that saw Florence at the centre of the people. www. with a single ticket that can be purchased online Limonaia, the Lemon House. At the centre of the international cultural scene. Structured in reverse museostibbert. (full price €18), with prior booking necessary for admission to the museums listed below www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it Rose Garden is the Palazzina del Cavaliere, which chronological (from the 1990s to the early 20th it. Via Stibbert, 26. the Dome. The visiting times of the monuments on Sunday 2 September. via di San Salvi, 16 houses the Porcelain Museum (see entry). Open century), thematic and interdisciplinary order, the T: 055 475520. Off are different and vary depending on the day. www. daily 8.15am-6.30pm (Apr-May-Sept), 8.15am- • Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze immersive museum itinerary includes multimedia Map ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 4.30pm (Jan-Feb-Nov-Dec), 8.15am-9.30pm (Jun-Jul- GALLERIE DEGLI UFFIZI www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it workstations, sound devices and video rooms along 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 Aug), 8.15am-5.30pm in March, 8.15am-6.30pm in with the works themselves. From 1 October to 31 Orsanmichele www.uffizi.it via Ricasoli, 58-60 October. Closed first and last Monday of the month. March: open daily (except Thurs) 11am-7pm, Thurs A unique, Villa Bardini and Gardens • Gli Uffizi • Giardino della Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full ticket price: €10 extraordinary monument, The most beautiful view of Florence earned it 11am-2pm. From 1 April to 30 September: Mon- piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it (1 Mar-31 Oct)/€6 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazza Tues-Wed-Sat-Sun 11am-8pm, Thurs 11am-2pm, in which civil and religious the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. Map E6 Fri 11am-11pm. Closed on 25 December. Full ticket functions are combined. Built place rich in history, art and culture, has become • Gabinetto dei Disegni via di Castello, 44 price: €8.50. www.museonovecento.it. Piazza Santa as a granary, in the mid-14th an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary e delle Stampe • MAF-Museo Archeologico Nazionale Museo Nazionale del Bargello Maria Novella, 10. T: 055 286132/055 217158. Map D3 century it was consecrated exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum This imposing building, built between the 13th and via della Ninna, 5 di Firenze for Christian worship. On (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and the • Palazzo Pitti Museums museoarcheologiconazionaledifirenze. Museo Salvatore Ferragamo the ground floor the Church realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between 1574 This is a museum devoted to the history of the houses a grandiose marble (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently Porcelain Museum, Tesoro dei Granduchi wordpress.com and 1858 (the “Bargello” was the head of the Grand Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, tabernacle by Orcagna. The being restructured). In addition, there is also a Giardino di Boboli, Galleria Palatina and piazza S.S. Annunziata, 9 Duke’s Guards). The Museum conserves a highly Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every originals of the numerous Michelin-starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda Royal Apartments, Museo della Moda • Parco di Villa Il Ventaglio important collection of Renaissance sculptures, year it organises exhibitions that investigate the sculptures (works by dei Frati (see "Dining"), and surrounding it are four with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, e del Costume, Galleria d’Arte Moderna www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it relationship between fashion and art. The museum famous Florentine hectares of woodland, an Italian-style garden and Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, piazza Pitti, 1 via Giovanni Aldini, 10/12. is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which artists from the a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun and prestigious collections of “lesser arts” (bronzes, was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the 15th and 16th 10am-7pm. Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price • Villa Medicea della Petraia Majolica ware, jewellery, ivories, medals, fabrics headquarters for his company and his workshop centuries) that €8. Bardini Gardens: open daily 8.15am-4.30pm MUSEI DEL BARGELLO www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it and antique weaponry). Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of (Nov-Feb); 8.15am-5.30pm (Mar); 8.15am-6.30pm From 9 April to 4 November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it via della Petraia, 40. Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries. (Apr-May, Sept-Oct); 8.15am-7.30pm (Jun-Aug). 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the • Museo delle Cappelle Medicee • Villa Medicea di Cerreto Guidi and Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, Closed first and last Monday of the month, 1 month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www. January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price €10 piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 Museo Storico della Caccia e del Territorio ticket price: €9. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali. The bronze statue of Perseus holding the head of ferragamo.com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Museum). • Museo Nazionale del Bargello www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it it/musei/1/bargello. Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 Medusa (Benvenuto Cellini, 1545-1554) is located at the Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4 www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - Via dei via del Proconsolo, 4 via Ponti Medicei, 7 - Cerreto Guidi 282902. Map G4 in PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA. Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G7

58 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 59 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www. trenitalia.com.

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.

PHOTO © Airports AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Getting around Florence century ring-roads or viali, which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a “Zona a Traffico Limitato” “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - (4 km from the ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ (ZTL), or restricted traffic zone. Bicycles, electric centre of Florence). The airport, to the North-West Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net vehicles, motorcycles and scooters are allowed of Florence, lies between the “Firenze Nord” exit Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; to enter. from the freeway and Florence’s industrial area from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer The museum city near Prato. Call centre T: 055 30615. Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices www.aeroporto.firenze.it Tourist Information Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost • Connections to the airport and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am- INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from 12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 www.firenzeturismo.it S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every (int. 5). T: 055 334802. 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of only allowed into the centre to load and unload Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s the tram: the ticket must be validated using the purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord and sales point for Firenzecard. machines on the bus. alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station (Via S. 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period concierge, also so you can receive indications of Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices (www. T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free F Can be used on buses, trams or trains. ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip ticket: €10. brochures and complaints service. Sales point for of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the where the car parks are located in the centre). To that is gradually disappearing, but some traces Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). Firenzecard. Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces find your way around the city, it is a good idea of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, 90 minutes onboard ticket (€2, no change given). 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: remain. With less than four hundred thousand to keep well in mind that Florence is developed were divided between “black”, which denoted he AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and - (80 km from the centre of Florence). Call centre 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for inhabitants and covering an area of little more along the two banks of the River Arno. All the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. T: 050 849300. www.pisa-airport.com one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day than a hundred square kilometres, Florence roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella ticket from 10pm to 3am (€4, by phoning T: 055 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. is practically impossible to tour by car, and in are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola 5650555). fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: The T1 Tram connects S.M. Novella Station in TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: the highest tourist density on the entire planet: Florence to Scandicci (www.gestramvia.com) Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. events, opening times of museums, how to tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and wherever you wish to visit, book in advance (or Electric buses move around the historic centre 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu and also reach the pedestrian areas. There are move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm you can also count on quite an efficient public the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on have them book for you at your hotel). You should 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: four lines: C1-C2-C3-D. WHERE TIP Route C1 in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. transport network (which, however, is severely the other side of the river, to the south, is called also bear in mind that the serious overcrowding €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, is convenient for visiting the most important Via email ([email protected]) you can limited during the nighttime hours, so take care “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally takes place around mid-morning, so if you are an travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. museums in Florence. ask for information in any language, including 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the outside the historic centre, but today it contains early bird then that could give you a significant The entire historic centre of Florence (which is (answers within 24 hours). strategic points, whereas private cars are usually important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the advantage. (E.B.) approximately the part located within the 19th-

60 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 61 V A SI E S T E S E

CASTELLO SESTO FIORENTINO

SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A

S A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E S VI VIA XXV APRILE

T A G. DUPRÈ E VIA DEL CHIUSO DEI PAZZI S E

I N A I L U I G O D L A N I G E R A I V V IA D E L L E PA N C H E

VIA ANDREA COSTA A COSTA VIA ANDRE

VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I V I A C A R L O D E L G R E C O Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

VIA PORTIGIANI Cattedrale di San Romolo SC ONI CI ALE 54 D EI BO STRADA PROVIN PIAZZA PIAZZA G.GARIBALDI MINO DA FIESOLE VIA MASSICINI V L. U C C H E S E

VIALE XI AGOSTO V VIA SANT’AP

A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E I VIA S.CHIARA

A POLINARE

V IA S A LV A D O R A L L E N D E F R À

VIALE SAN LUCA G VIALE GAETANO PIERACCINI I VIA GIULIO CACCINI O

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F VIA DELLA BADIA DEI ROCCETTINI I NUOVO E VIA REGINALDO GIULIANI S VIA DELLE PANCHE O FIESOLE L ALLA E

D PIAZZA E Aeroporto T Amerigo VIA VECCHIA FIESOLANA T ENRICO O Vespucci PIGNONE

BADIA L MATTEI VIA MANTELLINI ' A N G E V AI P R A T E S E L I C PIZZERIA O V I A U G O C O R S I SAN DOMENICO V. DEL PONTE DI QUARACCHI Convento di San Domenico V. CUPOLA VIA MANTELLINI

VIABENEDETTO DA MAIANO VIALE G. LUDER VIALE G.B. MORGAGNI

LLO STECCUTO VIA DE VIA FAENTINA VIALE ASTRONAUTI PIAZZA EUGENIO Stazione Firenze Rifredi VIA D EL PALAGIO DEGLI S PINI ARTOM VIALE ASTRONAUTI VIA PANCIATICHI

VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI VIA RENATO FANTONI

VIA DELLE PANCHE I VIA D I CARRAIA VIALE XI AGOSTO V. ACCADEMIA CIMENTO C C V I A A R T U R O F E R R A R I N V. S. STEFANO IN PANE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO U VIA DELL'OLMATELLO LG. DELLA T VIA D I CARRAIA LIBERAZIONE R V ANNI BOCCACCIO V I A P R A T E S E A I A V

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G TERZOLLE VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI I V. D .M IC H E L A C C I U VIA GUIDO BANTI L I V. F. BARACCA A N NI VIA CARLO DEL PRETE I UCCI MUGNONE

I VIA DI PERETOLA V. F. GEMINIANI Beata Vergine Maria Regina della Pace R PIAZZA Universtà VIA DEI CAPP VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA VIA VALDINIEVOLE Di Firenze O DALMAZIA VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO Ingegneria PIAZZA VIALE GIOVAN BATTISTA MORGAGNI L V IA L E A L E S S A N D R O G U ID O N I VIA DEI VESPUCCI VALDELSA VIA FAENTINA

L V AI D IN O V O L I VIA SAN PIERO A QUARACCHI

A VIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II VIA BOLOGNESE V. GIARD. BIZZARRIA VIA VIRGILIO VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI RIFREDI . VIA CARLO DEL PRETE

A VIA O. VECCHI

V IA S A N D O M E N IC O TOSCANA VIA PISTOIESE . Palazzo di Giustizia di Firenze VIA DELLA TORRE DEGLI AGLI VIA DEL TERZOLLE V VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI V. M . M E R C AT I

VIA DEI CAPPUCCINI VIA DI MONTUGHI VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO TERZOLLE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIALE DELLA V. M A L P I G H I ELAL PIAZZUOLA VIA PISTOIESE PIAZZA Convento Frati Cappuccini D V. M AT T I O L I V. C U O C O VIA A P.TTA DEL TERZOLLE V. C I N O D A P I S T O I A VIA ORAZIO VECCHI Parco San Donato PIAZZA DELL'ELBA G. G. ARCHI VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI Chiesa Santa Maria Ausiliatrice Chiesa ASSAI San Francesco e Santa Chiara V I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I CARACCIOLO F.V. VIA PISTOIESE VIA SANDRO PERTINI VIA CARLO PISACANE Giardino V. B A R B E R I N O Del Museo V. F. T. BARACCHINI Stibbert V. LUISA SANFELI

VIALE CORSICA VIA GUGLIELMO M V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

V IA F R A N C E S C O B A R A C C A E S E N G O L O B A I V Parco Pettini Burresi TOSCANA G. GIORGINI CE V. GUINIZZELLI VIA RIGUCCIO GALLUZZI

VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA VIA FAENTINA VIA PALA NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI VIA AND VIA DELL'ARCOVATA V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V AI V S. Antonio V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V da Padova al Romito PIETRO . F. COLA REA CO Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI LEOPOLDO TI S D'ORO RSALI T O R OI E M A N U E L EI TIBB V. VANNUCCI Centro Commerciale San Donato VIA PIERO CIRONI ERT V. F. G AI N N I V I A . G . F A B B R O N I VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio

VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DELLE FORBICI Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI G. BARTOLINI Villa Fabbricotti VIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R VIA TRIESTE TERZOLLE V I A G . B A R B E R A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA TINI PIAZZA MUGNONE VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA B R O N GIAMPIETRO VIA BEZZECCA ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi OFF V. F. CARACCIOLO V V I A L A VIA GAETANO MILANESI I A D I N O C O M PA G N I VIA SAN DONATO V I A T R E Parco Liceo V AI C G . U A S T I V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLE QUERCE Leonardo da Vinci V. O. DA PORDENONE VIA TRIESTE N IA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I Chiesa della B.V. M LARGO Madre della CESARE Orti del Parnaso Divina Provvidenza MUGNONE V IA M A R A G L IA N O CANTÙ

V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO VIA ANTONIO STOPPANI NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I PIAZZA LUDOVICO ANTONIO VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI V VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa MURATORI I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I Preziosissimo ANTI VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Sangue IA SAN DOMENICO MUGNONE U G I A V I VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI Stazione Firenze Statuto Giardino V I A F A E N T I PIAZZA V V. G. dell'Orticoltura VIALE FRANCESCO REDI VIA FRANCESCO BONAINI FEB OXR A I A V I Villa il TOMMASO PIAZZA Ventaglio VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C ALVA EDISON V. I. NIEVO VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA VIA BOLOGNESE DELLE CURE C O I L Chiesa della UIDO CAVALC Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT I N I VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA RFA NA C SEPC IVOR I PIAZZA VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI VIA V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I VNES AIRN EI N I V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI D EASLO TATV I U TO D I GIACOMO PIAZZA A L I VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N I A PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O XAMV XI A G GO I V E VITTORIA VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I DAV I ER LO M TO I G A V IA M A R A G L IA N O V. TOSCANELLI VIA DELLE FORBICI U VIA A. GARBASSO G VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI PIAZZA VIA DELLA CERNAIA A VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI I U VIA FILIPPO PACINI SE V. A. MEUCCI V GALILEO VIA ANTONIO COCCHI S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O T MUGNONE FERRARIS VIA DEI CAIROLI O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Istituto Comprensivo Statale R I V V I A D E L G ONNA TOS VIA LEONARDO FIBONACCI H Sacro Cuore VIALE ALESSANDROV. VOLTAG. B. AMICI I I VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI L U C A G OI R D A N O A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI LARGO C .A V I V. MAD PONTE ROSSO

V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E V. A. NICOLODI PIETRO D Golf Club Parco Di Firenze V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A CAPEI E

Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena VIA A. BERTANI L AL N D VIA G. BANDI

VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON V. G. INGHIRAMI PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO V. A. PACINOTTI IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T RE DI SAN EOXL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O PA MARTIRI N S IACOPINO V. S. BOTTICELLI PIAZZA E A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI V AI M A S A C C I GIOVANNI G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA IA V IA C A S S IA ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO Giardino VIA D. MANTELLATE V AI V AI L E D E MI LI L E FARDELLA della Fortezza VI A DU DI TORREARSA P I V. G. MARCONI C E R V I A D E L A VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO VIA LUPI BONIF D’AO PRATELLINO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE C A P P O N VIA NINO BIXIO VIA CASTELFIDARDO

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D MONTE O M EN N DSO AI A PIAZZA L VIUZZO DELLE LAME RA V IA D I R IP O L I DEGLI I O V I A O L A N D A C I VIALE EUROPA UNGANELLI G H V I A G I N E L A

VIALE MACHIAVELLI LLO V I A D I R I P O L I GA

VIASANTADI MARGHERITA AMONTICI

ARCETRI V. P. TACCA

A TORRE DEL PIAZZA

SCANDICCI Presidio Ospedaliero Firenze Centro Piero Palagi DI BADIA A RIPOLI O

VIA DELL E V I L A L I V AI S A N M A R C E L L NI O E L G A

VIA MARCO POLO

V AI B E N E D E T T O F O R T NI ,I

VIA DEl PARADISO

DUE STRADE

VIA MARCO POLO

V I A G I O V A N N I A G N E L L I

VIA GIOVANNI AGNELLI

VIA DI SANTA MARGHERITA A MONTICI

VIA DELLE CINQUE VIE

A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE

GALLUZZO

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