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48

SPECIAL CUISINE & ANTIQUES ISSUE

THE NEW DUOMO MUSEUM ANTIQUES & CONTEMPORARY ART IN IN FLORENCE

CHIUSI FLORENCE DINING GUIDE AN ANCIENT TUSCAN TOWN FOR CELIACS & BUDGET LUNCHES Volume 26, Number 1/Fall 2015/Spedizione in abbonamento postale Gruppo IV – 70%/Magenta Editrice/Registered in the Court of Florence on March 17, 1989 No. 3816/Distributed free in the Court of Florence on March 17, 1989 No. 2015/Spedizione in abbonamento postale Gruppo IV – 70%/Magenta Editrice/Registered 26, Number 1/Fall Volume

www.magentaflorence.com The cover photo of The view of Florence from the Garden, created when the city was capital of , was taken by Guido Cozzi.

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contributing writers Rita Kungel Elizabeth Wicks Kate Magovern Ellen Santucci Masi FLORENCE INTERNATIONAL BIENNAL ANTIQUES FAIR Isabella Grezzi TH Shira Burns 29 EDITION PALAZZO CORSINI Sydney Choi Lungarno Corsini, Florence interns Angela Karl Bianca Cockrell Connie Chung Stephanie Ino Giulia Penna

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printing Nidiaci The essence of an island, a whiff of the sea San Gimignano BIAF15_123X248_VISTA_sponsor.indd 1 08/07/15 11:42 acquadellelba.it opening TUSCANY’S CULTURAL GUIDE opening

struction of the new of Santa Maria del Fiore, designed by Arnolfo di Cambio. The continued to play a vi- tal role in the centuries following, especial- ly during the construction of Brunelleschi’s Dome, and during the many attempts to build a new façade for the Cathedral. Over 700 years later, the Opera of Santa Maria del Fiore is still actively engaged in conserving the three monuments entrusted to its care: the Cathedral itself, the Baptis- tery, and the . The new museum is the most ambitious undertaking since the cathedral’s façade, which was completed in the 1870s. Adolfo Natalini and Guicciar- dini and Magni Architects, who won the contract in an international competition, designed the 45 million euro project, en- tirely financed by the Opera. The Museum of the Opera del Duomo was originally founded in 1891 on the site of the Opera stoneworks in the cathedral square just behind the dome to house the from the cathedral complex that were removed for remodelling or that needed to be stored inside in order to con- serve them for posterity. It is home to what has been called “one of the world’s most important collections of ,” as well as many spectacular Medieval and Renais- sance and sacred objects. f Florence is the center of in the world, the Among the more than 750 works dis- Left, the Prophet Jeramiah by , in the hands of conservators; above, the room of the Cathedral’s old façade; cathedral complex of Santa Maria del Fiore is truly the heart played include Donatello’s marble prophets next page, a rendering of the new Duomo museum AT THE of the art. “Emotion,” “mystery” and “passion“ are the three and his wooden sculpture of the Penitent keywords that the new Duomo Museum is hoping to inspire Magdalene, his and Luca della Robbia’s in 1586-87. restoration project is finished. Iin visitors and residents alike when it opens on October 29. cantorie, the choir galleries originally lo- Forty of the marble statues from the The museum itinerary continues on the Francis will take part in a special blessing of the new museum cated over the cathedral’s sacristy , 14th and 15th centuries sculpted for the ground floor, where its works of greatest HEART during his historic visit to Florence on November 10 in conjunc- the original Gates of Paradise and the North cathedral façade by Arnolfo di Cambio, spiritual significance are located. Donatello tion with the National Ecclesiastical Convention, which will be Doors of the Baptistery by Lorenzo Ghiber- Donatello, Nanni di Banco and others will carved his Penitent Mary Magdalene (1453- held in the city from Nov. 9 - 13. ti, as well as ’s Florence Pi- be mounted on the giant replica in their 55) to show a woman devoured by years of OF THE But what do the Duomo, the city’s most famous monument, età, which the artist left unfinished. It was original positions. On the opposite side of fasting and material deprivation, her wast- and an obscure industrial building in the little town of Calenzano placed in the Duomo after his death. the room, visitors come face-to-face with ed figure seemingly barely able to stand. between Florence and have in common? Ghiberti’s monumental bronze doors from However, her rapt gaze and outstretched They both shelter some of the world’s most famous medieval THE NEW MUSEUM the baptistery, known as the Gates of Para- hands emanate a spiritual strength sure to ART and Renaissance art treasures created for the Cathedral, Santa n the redesign of the museum, all of these dise. “After 400 years,” says Duomo Muse- enthral the viewer. The Magdalene became Maria del Fiore, and the Baptistery, dedicated to St. John. For the Iworks have been given an entirely new um Director Timothy Verdon, “the Gates of a symbol of the resilience of the Florentine past three years, most of the treasures from the city’s cathedral ambience—but that is just the beginning. Paradise will face the Cathedral facade as it people themselves during times of hard- The story behind Florence’s newly complex have been in storage at Art Defender, a high security art The new museum has more than doubled looked in Ghiberti’s day, re-establishing a ship, especially during the terrible great storage facility in partnership with the art transport firmArteria . the previous exhibition capacity. visual and iconographic harmony that was flood in Florence in 1966. Photographs renovated Opera del Duomo Located in the industrial area of Calenzano, Art Defender is a The itinerary, encompassing 25 rooms on lost for over four centuries.” of the statue covered in mud but having strange cross between a warehouse and a Swiss bank vault. The three floors, begins in a vast space, formerly Another innovation is the installation survived the waters, inspired people from museum, Pope Francis’s visit and the second floor of the building houses an art conservation facility, and a theater (the Teatro degli Intrepidi), which of the newly restored North Doors, the first around the globe to come to the city’s aid. just-restored Baptistery a rotating team of experts have been working there on behalf of measures 36 meters (118 ft.) in length, 15 set of doors designed for the Baptistery by Michelangelo’s Pietà, carved over a peri- the Opera del Duomo for the last three years, restoring everything meters (49 ft.) in width and 20 meters (65 Ghiberti, the conservation of which has od of eight years from 1547 to 1555, was from Luca della Robbia’s Cantoria to statues from the Belltower ft.) high. The enormous room, which is de- been completed just in time for the muse- originally intended by the sculptor for his by Elizabeth Wicks and paintings and other art treasures from the cathedral and the signed to give one the feeling of standing in um’s opening. The South Doors, the earliest own funerary monument in Santa Croce. photos courtesy of Opera del Duomo museum. the original nave of the Cathedral, contains set of doors for the Baptistery executed by The aging sculptor, during a period of in- The Opera del Duomo, or Works, was a life-sized replica of the original cathedral Andrea Pisano, are still undergoing conser- tense depression following the death of his founded in 1296 by the Florentine Republic to oversee the con- façade as it looked before it was torn down vation and will be mounted here once the friend and muse, poet Vittoria Colonna,

4 5 opening TUSCANY’S CULTURAL GUIDE displays & shows

THE NEWLY RESTORED BAPTISTERY hile busy overseeing the conserva- ANTIQUES AMPLIFIED W tion of its art and creating the new Duomo Museum, the Opera has also un- dertaken another ambitious project. The The 2015 Edition of Italy’s Premier Antiques Fair, Including Special Events & almost thousand-year-old Baptistery has Awards, Opens to Modern Art, and New Technology undergone a two-year, two million euro facelift of its exterior, scheduled to be by Kate Magovern completed by October 20 in time for the nown as a prestigious celebra- museum’s grand opening and the Pope’s tion of Italy’s treasures from visit. the past, the Internation- became dissatisfied with the piece. Ac- as the tools, material and pieces of equip- The white marble panels from the al Biennial Antiques Fair cording to Vasari and other contemporary ment Brunelleschi had to invent in order Apuan Alps, which alternate with the K(BIAF) hints at something new this year. biographers, when a vein in the marble to build his famous dome. Brunelleschi’s green serpentine stone known as “Prato The season’s most important art event in caused a crack to open up in the Christ funeral mask is also on display in this gal- green,” have been carefully mapped, dated, Florence coincides with occasions for the figure, Michelangelo tried to smash the lery. monitored and cleaned of the pollutants city to color some of its most traditional statue to pieces with a hammer in a fit Several “ephemeral works,” or temporary and extraneous matter which have de- corners with a splash of modern art. of rage. He succeeded in completely de- paintings and sculptures, will be exhibited graded and obscured its original surface, Honorary guest, neo-pop artist and fine stroying Christ’s left leg and damaging for the first time since they were created turning the once brilliantly white stone art collector Jeffrey Koons, will attend the other parts of the sculpture, and the gouge to decorate the Cathedral on special oc- into a dirty grey. In May and June of this fair’s inaugural ceremony at Palazzo Vec- marks of his hammer are still visible to- casions, such as the wedding of Medici year, “spidermen” technicians from Za- chio on September 26. Koons’ VIP partic- day. Michelangelo’s pupil, sculptor Tiberio Grand Duke Ferdinand I and Christina of nobi Consortium climbed, rappelled and ipation is meant to both attract the media’s Calcagni, eventually completed the statue. Lorraine held in the Cathedral in 1589. crawled all over the Baptistery’s enormous attention as well as highlight the fair’s ex- The Brunelleschi Gallery, a “muse- Due to their often-vast size and fragile octagonal roof, attached by cords to the tension of its chronological boundaries to um within the museum,” will house the condition, these works have remained in lantern at the top of the monument well 1979, evidenced by contemporary galleries wooden models of the cupola, including storage for hundreds of years. Many have over 100 ft. above the ground. Tourists such as Frediano Farsetti and Tornabuoni the legendary one thought to have been been restored during the last three years climbing the bell tower or the cupola were Arte (Florence), plus Sperone Westwater designed by Brunelleschi himself, as well expressly for display in the new museum. treated to an even more electrifying view (New York). This enhancement allows Above, Palazzo Corsini, the Antiques Fair venue; bottom left, Flora by Giambattista Tiepolo than usual as they saw the white-suited participants to bring some extraordinary specialists perched precariously while re- post-war art and furniture to the showcase na (2010-13), an 11ft sculpture in flashy portrait by Anthony van Dyck (Robilant + moving dirt, mold and lichens from the this year. gold-colored stainless steel, right at the Voena of London). rooftop’s marble panels. Even after the exhibitors and buyers have entrance to city hall. Inside the museum, Smart phone and tablet users will en- The Opera del Duomo intended to en- gone home, Koons’ provocative art will positioned in the Hall of Lilies, Koons’ joy the BIAF’s newest high-tech feature. tirely finance the project, but during the have a lasting influence on the city as he Barberini Faun of his Gazing Ball plaster Captions for artworks display QR codes monitoring phase, experts made a discov- will bring two of his works to be on display cast series of Greco-Roman sculpture will for quick access to fact sheets on individual ery when they reached the top of the roof. at through December 28. offer a striking contrast to Donatello’s 15th pieces, complete with detailed historic, ar- President of the Opera del Duomo di Fi- The copy of Michelangelo’s might century Judith and Holofernes on permanent tistic technical data about each. renze, Francesco Lucchesi states, “At the be tempted to raise an eyebrow at the in- display there. Among the dealers present are De Jonck- summit near the lantern, we found that stallation of Koons’ Pluto and Prosperi- On a more traditional note, antique deal- heere (Paris), Carlo Orsi (), W. Apol- both the marble panels and the metal struc- ers, 27 of whom are coming from abroad, loni and Alessandra Di Castro (), ture that sustains them had dangerously will present paintings, sculpture, porcelain, Giovanni Pratesi, as well as Bacarelli (Flor- decayed.” This required a complex oper- furniture and drawings, mainly of Italian ence) and 11 German antiquarians from ation to remove and restore the degraded origin, to be displayed and available for Munich’s Highlights fair who are bringing marble panels and intervene on the metal purchase at the BIAF. Italian art. structure beneath. Some of the unique and varied pieces in- For some sparkle, turn your eyes to To raise the necessary funds, the Opera clude Giambattista Tiepolo’s , Por- Lungarno Corsini for the fireworks show, launched a highly successful crowdfunding trait of Flora, a work dating from the mid- which is planned to launch from Palazzo campaign in conjunction with the Florence 18th century and only recently identified Corsini’s terrace after the A-list-only gala supermarket UNICOOP. Over 15,000 after having been hidden for two centuries dinner on September 24. Florentines donated more than 200,000 in the castle of a French aristocrat (ex- euro to the initiative, called “Embrace the hibitor: Jean Luc Baroni Ltd of London); Baptistery,” making it the biggest crowd- Giorgio De Chirico’s oil on canvas, Horses THE INTERNATIONAL BIENNIAL funding campaign ever organized in Italy. and Ruins besides the Sea (exhibitor: Galle- ANTIQUES FAIR Thanks to its visitors, and also to a sep- ria d’Arte Frediano Farsetti of Cortina); a September 26 – October 4, 2015 arate donation from UNICOOP Firen- velvet bound manuscript of 301 pages with Via del Parione 11, Florence ze, the Opera will be able to monitor and illuminations, Dei Casi di Nobili Uomini e Open 10:30 am – 8 pm, Oct. 1 until 7 pm maintain the newly cleaned Baptistery for Donne by Giovanni Boccaccio (exhibitor: Admission: €15 years to come, at the heart of the art. Dr. Jörn Günther Rare Books of Basel); a www.biaf.it

6 7 the art scene TUSCANY’S CULTURAL GUIDE today & tomorrow A FLORENCE THE DIGITAL FRONTIER CONTEMPORARY ART by Connie Chung PERSPECTIVE by Giulia Penna

ntitled “Geographies and Explorations of the Net,” the theme of the fifth incar- ater, cooking, Big Data and sports, and to Alighiero Boetti, Map of the World nation of the annual Internet Festival held in (October 8-11), is spazio, discuss current digital topics in these areas. Eor “space.” Lastly, T-Tour will hold educational activ- n ancient building along the the many aspects of Picasso work, including Louise Nevelson, an example of the artist’s Over the course of four days, 200 guest speakers, such as 2015 Nobel Peace Prize nom- ities such as laboratories, workshops and River holds a surprise: a modern art Cubism; the metaphysical language of Gior- monochrome style. inee Don Mussie Zerai, will participate in 100 events, including various seminars, discus- other interactive exhibitions so that curious Agallery characterized by minimalist gio De Chirico: Piazza d’Italia with Empty An important work within the collection sions and workshops in 20 locations, to examine the digital revolution and how the In- minds can learn more about digital culture. design and contemporary artworks. Torn- Pedestal (1955) in addition to Giorgio Mo- is Superficie rossa (Red Surface, 1930) by ternet has inspired a new idea of what “space” is. “A place—the organizers explain—both The Internet Festival is made possible abuoni Arte’s current anthology, which randi’s Still Life (1941). Enrico Castellani, a monochrome acrylic physical and virtual, that we are all called to live, build, reorganize, and that involves every by the Tuscan Regional government, the can be viewed through the end of the year, is Further along, the viewer will find a con- on canvas. Castellani was considered the dimension of daily life: culture, economics, civil society in politics.” Chamber of Commerce, and the Universi- part of a vast and wide-ranging contempo- temporary of Yves Klein, who often echoed father of minimalism and a leading figure The events are categorized into eight different sections in this year’s festival. Digital Garage ty of Pisa, among other institutions. rary collection. him in style: Piero Manzoni’s Buttons of abstract art who contributed to the devel- will touch on the changing world of work, focusing on the key idea of innovation and the For the full festival program and addi- The paintings and sculptures exhibited by (1933); an Impressionist/Macchiaiolo-in- opment of avant-garde art in Europe in the concept of being “hands on” in an otherwise structured digital age. Living Culture is centered tional information, visit www.internetfes- various famous artists represent a careful se- spired picture of a city garden by Filippo De 1950s and 60s. upon the notion that new innovations give rise to cultural development, acting as the “yeast” tival.it. Stay updated through Facebook, lection of canvases of the 20th century, pro- Pisis (Jardin du Luxembourg) (1933); and a Artistic trends that emerged in the second or catalyst for new relationships between communities and society in general. Twitter, Pinterest and YouTube using the viding an overview of stylistic evolution and noted exponent of New Realism, Pierre Fer- half of the 20th century are also represent- The National Research Council (CNR, known in Italian as Consiglio Nazionale delle hashtag #IF2015. trends of the period. nandez Arman’s Untitled, (1969). ed, such as the Poor Art of Kounellis, Ceroli, Ricerche) is the driving force behind the Digital Scene category. These events cover a Thanks to Roberto Casamonti and his One of the most important and beauti- Calzolari, Pistoletto and Zorio, as well as the number of topics regarding the relationship between the Internet and its users, including strong passion for paintings and art in gen- ful pieces is Map (1989-1994), a majestic Post-Modern Movement in Italy known as copyright laws, crowdfunding, Youtubers in Italy, digital enterprise and more. Digital eral, with its annual shows Tornabuoni Arte embroidery (cm. 254x588) created by Af- Transavanguardia, featuring Mimmo Paladi- Scene will also include the fourth annual .itCup, the startup competition held by Registro. brings a breath of fresh air to the art scene ghan women artisans following a design by no, Francesco Clemente and Nicola De Maria. it. The winner will receive a trip to Silicon Valley. in such European cities as Florence, Milan, Alighiero Boetti. The textile represents the The future of food will be addressed in Hackorto proceedings. Topics in this section Paris and Crans Sur Sierre (Switzerland). world’s territories and nations designated by will touch on Big Data (i.e. the expanding digital record) and the elimination of food Florence’s elegant art gallery is divided into the colorful patterns of their corresponding MODERN & CONTEMPORARY waste, optimization of food production and the transformation of the food chain, among three levels: basement, ground floor and the flags. ART, SELECTED WORKS 2015 other presentations such as a cooking demonstration with writer Marco Malvadi and a floor above. The space displays 100 works of Sculptures include Bien Gardè (1997) by Until November 30, 2015 tribute to food author and innovator Pellegrino Artusi. Porto Franco will address the famous Italian and European painters. The Arman and Warp and Woof, Accumulation Tornabuoni Arte, Lungarno Benvenuto role technology plays in emerging countries, specifically discussing rights and conflicts in visual language of the 20th century spans the (1988) by Alberto Biasi. There is also an Cellini, 3. Florence territorial emergencies such as ISIS in the Middle East. abstract art of Wassily Kandinsky, Untitled; exhibit by the founder of Spatialism, Lucio Open daily 9:30 am - 1 pm/3:30 -7:30 pm Looking beyond entertainment purposes, Game Box will discuss the world of games Paul Klee, Friendly Meandering; Two Pigeons Fontana entitled Horse (1935-1936), and the Saturday 11 am- 7 pm and “gamification” and their social, cultural, political and economic significances. IF Ter- (1960), an important work that evidences wooden sculpture Dusk Shadows (1971) by Free admission minal provides opportunities for attendees to meet people in the fields of music, the- 8 9 views & interviews TUSCANY’S CULTURAL GUIDE focus

t is said that nothing can escape the grasp of time, and the A CULTURAL HERITAGE BENEFACTOR art of Florence is unfortunately no exception. The centuries THE Ihave taken their toll on the city’s masterpieces, which have Simonetta Brandolini D’Adda, Founder of the ‘Friends of Florence,’ Which Funds been subjected to floods and fires, pollution and politics. Yet today, many are once again beautiful and well-preserved thanks to the ef- Restoration Projects forts of art conservators, often funded by nonprofit organizations. by Elizabeth Wicks ‘FRIENDS One of the most prominent of these is Friends of Florence (F.O.F.), a not-for-profit foundation dedicated solely to Florentine art and . Though based in the United States, Friends OF of Florence has donors from around the world, who sustain its mission of “preserving and enhancing the cultural and historical integrity of the arts located in the city and region of Florence, Italy, and to increasing public understanding and appreciation through FLORENCE’ educational programs and events.” The organization has literally been in touch with some of the most important artists of history. Each new undertaking requires Behind the Scenes of the Restorations a detailed budget and timeframe to be submitted for approval by Endowed by this Non-Profit Dedicated the Board of Directors, headed by president Simonetta Brandolini d’Adda, and the Advisory Committee of internationally renowned to Art Preservation art experts. All of the projects sponsored by Friends of Florence are published, with films and DVDs produced to document the by Elizabeth Wicks & Bianca Cockrell restorations. One of F.O.F.’s latest undertakings is the renovation of the Gallery’s exhibition space, which houses Sandro Botticel-

Photo by Stefano Amantini

winning combination of American know-how and Italian Washington D.C. helped with the paperwork of getting 501/C3 charm is the secret of Countess Simonetta Brandolini charitable status, and in 1998 “Friends of Florence” was born. AD’Adda’s success as founder and head of Friends of Florence. Their first project was the two-year restoration of all of the Born in Georgia to an American father and a Roman mother, the sculptures in the Loggia de’ Lanzi, including the Rape of the Sabine bilingual Simonetta spent most of her childhood and young adult- Women by Giambologna. Their next project was the restoration hood moving back and forth between the U.S. and Italy. Five years of the 22 large panel paintings by Tuscan artists of the late 16th spent in France as a young child add to her international back- and early 17th centuries, which hang in the Accademia near the ground. She was a teenager in Verona during the time her dad, an statue of Michelangelo’s David. Friends of Florence were also able officer in the U.S. military, was stationed there with NATO. to fund the David’s sprucing up, just in time for his 500th birthday Later, Simonetta attended Tufts University in Massachusetts, in 2004. graduating with a double degree in Art History and Architecture. Since its founding, Friends of Florence has completed hundreds Her first experience living in Florence was during her junior year of restoration projects and organized numerous educational pro- abroad with the Smith Program, during which she took a Cavarag- grams. When asked whether she has a favorite restoration, Si- gio class at Florence University with Mina Gregori. While in Italy monetta says diplomatically, “I fall in love with all of my projects.” she met her husband, whose family are half Venetian and half Sie- Among her rich and famous “The Best in Italy” clients, Simonetta nese. Together they founded “The Best in Italy” in 1982, the very mentions Tom Cruise, Nicole Kidman, Bette Midler and Sting, first agency to rent luxury homes, an innovative idea at the time. who have become generous donors to Friends of Florence projects. Because of her Venetian connections, Simonetta became in- Looking toward the future for Friends of Florence, this attrac- volved with “Save ,” the organization responsible for raising tive and dynamic woman is optimistic. She mentions both a grow- funds to restore and protect many of Venice’s chief monuments ing awareness by Italians that their monuments need help from the and art treasures. At the beginning of the ‘90s, Simonetta became private sector to survive, combined with the new “art bonus” the aware that no such organization existed in Florence, where it was government has created to allow for tax deductible gifts. sorely needed. What does Simonetta love about Tuscany? She replies, “Every- Being a practical American, Simonetta decided to do something thing… I love the history, art, architecture, landscapes, culture, about this situation, and she used her fundraising experience and foods, wines and my life here. I founded Friends of Florence to her network of contacts to make her dream a reality. Her sister in give back to this glorious city and region of Tuscany.” Above, the Uffizi Tribuna, restored by the FOF 10 11 focus TUSCANY’S CULTURAL GUIDE yesterday & today

as the crimson velvet stretched be completed later this year, the restoration across the walls, water as the of the first project funded outside of Flor- mother of pearl seashells nestled ence is now underway. The Badia of Pas- in the cupola, air as the open signano, a splendid Vallombrosian abbey rose window of the lantern, nestled in the hills between Greve and Ta- and earth in the marble mosaic varnelle, houses the earliest of Domenico floors. For the restoration, red Ghirlandaio’s frescoes of The Last Supper. fabric was rewoven according As benefactors of Florence for the past 17 to traditional methods to re- years, the “Friends” have completed over 60 place the faded and worn wall projects, varying in cost, timeframe, scope coverings, the dome’s seashells and focus. Twelve are now in progress, and were cleaned and polished, and some 30 more are planned for the future. the floors and numerous statues Reaching far beyond museum walls, and paintings were cleaned and and frescoes alike receive atten- restored. tion and care. A small tabernacle on the Friends of Florence undertake corner of Via San Giovanni had its paint- major projects such as those at ing cleaned and conserved and its mar- the Uffizi, the Accademia or the ble frame restored. In 2010, every church San Marco Museums, but also bell in Florence was photographed, their many smaller projects in Flor- chimes recorded, and their history ar- ence. In conjunction with the chived. Paintings in the Corsi Collection, Salone del Restauro Restoration housed at the Bardini Museum and open Fair, they sponsor the “Friends to researchers, were studied by graduate art Above, A restored fresco in Santissima Annunziata by Andrea del of Florence Prize” every other history students, resulting in a publication Sarto; below, the restored Hellenistic horse’s head at the Archeological year. The prize-winning resto- of their findings. Museum, both in Florence. ration project, presented in a Some of the “Friends’” current projects li’s most renowned works. Until they are competition, is funded by €20,000 from include an in-depth study and cleaning returned to their permanent home in the Friends of Florence, which posts the best of Donatello’s bronze Crucifixion, and the spring of 2016, visitors can see the paint- projects on their website to promote fund- complete restoration of frescoes in the ings in Room 41. raising for them. Cloister of the Vows at the church of San- or most of the year, the cityscape view from His iconic pieces, Birth of Venus and Pri- Although 95% of the “Friends” donors tissima Annunziata. In the future, more Florence’s () is mavera, were both commissioned by the come from the U.S., there is also a Canadian work is planned for the Uffizi, and many FIRENZE F a backdrop for tall stalks of pink in full Medici family. With their lyrical depiction chapter and a strong and growing interna- other sites in Florence and Tuscany. bloom, the tallest make a striking contrast with the fa- of pagan gods and figures of classical my- tional presence. Simonetta says, “We have When you visit a museum or church in mous bright blue and puffy white-clouded Tuscan sky. thology, notably Venus, Mercury, nymphs, many repeat donors, and our board members Florence, it is likely the “Friends” have al- The garden is nestled in the same hills of the Oltrarno zephyrs and the Three Graces (Chastity, are prime benefactors with other donors ready been there and have made it possible CAPITALE: that are home to the manicured grounds of the Bobo- Beauty and Love), they reflect the human- coming from around the world, including for the public to benefit from their efforts. li and , and the Pitti Palace. The rose ist themes of the late 1400s. Asia, South America, Canada and Europe. The group’s presence saturates the city: A WALK THROUGH THE garden, however, is the place to go for miles of blos- These two paintings, among others, were “I fundraise personally, as do all of our Florence has Friends in high places. soming flowers, with a bounty of 350 various types of formerly viewed in the Uffizi’s Botticelli Board and Foundation as roses lining every corner of the garden, some of them Rooms (Halls 10-14) before being moved well. There is also a Florence OLD AND THE NEW quite rare. to their temporary exhibit space. The Chapter that raises funds, as Interspersed among the flowers are 12 sculptures Friends of Florence has played a signifi- do our other chapters in Chi- The Modern Changes in Florence’s by the late Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon that de- cant role in both locations: their funds have cago, Aspen and other loca- pict peaceful metal figures with hats and coats. A walk brought the temporary room to current tions. The press is very vocal Urban Landscape during the Italy’s 1860s down the slanted cobblestone that is lined with roses museum standards, and are also providing about our work, and our web- Reunification on trellises leads to a grassy knoll where one can read, vital safety system upgrades and a new ex- site and programs and events relax and sunbathe. hibition design in the original Botticelli raise awareness.” by Shira Burns Architect Giuseppe Poggi (1811-1901) designed the rooms. Moving forward, Simonet- photo by Guido Cozzi garden in 1865 as part of the city’s renovation peri- This is by no means the first time the ta Brandolini has created the od, otherwise known as the Risanamento, or “making “Friends” have made their presence known F.O.F. Council of the Future, healthy again.” When Florence became the capital of at the Uffizi: to celebrate the Foundation’s which seeks to include young- the Kingdom of Italy, the 150th anniversary of which is 10th anniversary, they dedicated over a er members in active roles in being celebrated by the city this year, Poggi was com- million dollars and two years of work to the organization. Friends of missioned by the Florentine government to remodel it. the octagonal Tribune room. Created as a Florence is also working to es- The Risanamento lasted from 1865 until 1895. treasure house and “room of wonders” for tablish charitable status in the The city’s designated role as the capital illuminated the Medici Grand Duke Francesco I, the U.K. and to extend their resto- a series of structural inadequacies. The fundamental room’s extravagance is highly symbolic. ration projects to include the elements of Poggi’s plan included a new train station, The four elements are represented: fire rest of Tuscany. Scheduled to Campo di Marte, for military activity, and prevention

12 13 yesterday & today TUSCANY’S CULTURAL GUIDE buon appetito! against flooding from the Arno. Poggi was city center such as the Duomo and Santa that circle the city center. The plan includ- also tasked with giving the city a modern Croce, behind which lie the hillside towns ed the construction of neighborhoods close and bourgeois look in order to keep up with of Settignano and Fiesole. Piazzale Michel- to the boulevards with aristocratic resi- THREE LUNCH SPOTS other contemporary European cities. angelo was built by Poggi in 1869 during dences for the capital’s new employees. After designing the garden, Poggi creat- his re-development of the Oltrarno, which A short walk from the Arno’s north ed the Viale dei Colli, a serene, tree-lined included the building of the lungarni, the bank leads one to Piazza della Repubblica, Genuine Flavors in a Florence Lunch for Under € 15 walkway that leads to Piazzale Michelan- walkways that allow modern city-dwellers once the geographical center of the city and by Sydney Choi & Bianca Cockrell gelo. In fact, after stopping to relax at the to stroll along the Arno. where the ancient Romans held their fo- garden, one might continue the hike up the A short trip across any of the seven bridg- rum. It was also home to the Jewish ghet- with additional reporting by Connie Chung stairs or “Le Rampe” to reach the overlook. es brings the visitor to the north side of the to, created in 1571 by Cosimo de’ Medici photos by Lakota Gambill & Kate Magovern The classic panorama view from the pi- Arno, where Poggi’s plan called for the re- and expanded during the early eighteenth azzale enables residents and tourists alike moval of the fourteenth-century city walls, century. The ghetto was compulsory for to discover every landmark of the modern replacing them with the wide lanes (viali) most Florentine Jews, who were forced to ith the changing realities of food culture, Flor- LA GHIANDA The plate was also served with live behind an iron gate that was locked ence is beginning to lose its traditional recipes t is not always easy to find a choice of cooked vegetables, every evening at sunset and opened every in favor of chain restaurants as they become Isomething to eat that is both such as boiled fennel and roast- morning at dawn. Jews were required to more prevalent. However, a few foodies are ar- inexpensive, but also delicious. ed potatoes. wear a yellow accessory as identification. dentlyW trying to bring back original flavors. At La Ghianda, however, a Another impressive choice By the eighteenth century, about 1,000 One such foodie is Iacopo Iandelli, who, with the help of his diner can enjoy a three-course was a plate of pumpkin and Jews lived in the ghetto, which is now the wife and friends, opened La Cucina del Ghianda in August lunch for € 12.50 with free mushroom risotto. The sauce site of an Italian-style synagogue as well as 2014 on via dell’Agnolo 85/r (Santa Croce). Iandelli “wanted to bread and water, and no cover was extremely creamy, but was one of Spanish design. start a restaurant not just for tourists, but for the Florentines.” Also charge For those who do not balanced perfectly with a cer- Abolished in 1848 by King Carlo Alber- in the Santa Croce neighborhood, on via de’ Macci 77/r, a creative want such a hearty afternoon tain lightness from the whole- to di Savoia, the ghetto became the site of take on a traditional Florence dish can be found at Johnny Brus- meal, a first course is€ 4, and grain risotto. Portions are the Mercato Vecchio, distinguished by the chetta, while Yogurt & Co. (between Palazzo Vecchio and the a second is € 6. While it may filling, but not overindulgent. , the old fish market porti- Duomo) is a wonderful little dessert shop (via Tosinghi 4/R) for seem incredible, the price is not La Ghianda is open for lunch co designed by Vasari, now in Sant’Ambro- those who are looking for something other than traditional Italian even the most astonishing part. Monday through Friday. gio. The Mercato Vecchio was one of the gelato. La Cucina del Ghianda most important markets of its time. How- In the spirit of the Milan Food Expo, the following are visits and does traditional with a mod- JOHNNY BRUSCHETTA ever, all that remains now is the Colonna reviews of each newcomer on the Florence dining scene. ern twist-much like the envi- iced tomatoes piled della Dovizia (Column of Abundance), ronment of Florence itself-by Dhigh onto toasted bread, constructed at the crossing of the cardo and combining new and old tastes rubbed with garlic and driz- decumanus of the ancient Roman city. to create something complete- zled with olive oil—bruschetta The small tenement buildings of the ly unique. The ambiance of the is the quintessentially iconic ghetto were destroyed by June of 1885, as restaurant is inviting and com- Tuscan appetizer. But as the well as many historic architectural assets fortable, and though the space times change, so do the tradi- such as churches and antique houses. Al- is large, it offers a sense of inti- tions. New restaurant Johnny though it was thought to be necessary for macy to its customers. Bruschetta focuses on serving the area’s sanitation, criticizers of the mar- From 12 noon to 3:30 pm, up hearty lunches based on the ket’s demolition argue that it was destroyed lunch is served in a buffet traditional antipasto. with the purpose of bolstering the emerg- style—the menu changes dai- Located close to Sant’Am- ing middle class. ly—the food is laid out at the brogio, guests are first greeted The piazza is now a place of luxury, with front counter where patrons by the bar, backed by shelves of cafes such as the Caffè delle Giubbe Rosse, can pick and choose what they wine bottles, glasses, a cappuc- where famous philosophers and artists dis- would like for each course. cino machine and a chalkboard. cussed Futurism. There is now even a work- My visit began with a sizable Just about every dish is assem- ing carousel, where Beyoncé recently played bowl of ribollita soup, which bled with zero mile ingredients, with her daughter under the famous arch gives a sense of nostalgia with all chopped and served straight that reads, “The ancient center of the city / the softness of the bread and from Tuscan farms. Each brus- restored from age-old squalor / to new life.” the crisp taste of the vegetables. chetta can be served in 40, 80, Although many aspects of the historic Next are Iandelli’s special 120, 200 (and up – just ask) city center were destroyed in the renova- eggplant balls and tzatziki centimeter increments, and tions, a few relics were kept and remain sauce. The outer breading was similar to gelato, the number of as testaments to the center’s past. For in- crunchy, while the center was flavors they can hold increases stance, the gates to the ancient walls were soft with a blend of eggplant accordingly. One can eat a full almost all spared, around which Poggi de- and cheese. Adding the tzatzi- meal, complete with beer and signed piazzas such as Piazza della Libertà ki gave the dish a very dynamic table service, for under € 13. and Piazza Beccaria. From these piazzas range of flavors, contrasting the The walls are deep purple branch the wide, straight streets that we richness of the eggplant balls and light green, representing walk on today. and the freshness of the yogurt. the wine they serve and the

14 15 buon appetito! TUSCANY’S CULTURAL GUIDE vines & wines

he perfected his recipe through a lot of self-study, trial and error, and the result is a refreshing treat with just the right THE LORD OF WINES amount of tang and sweetness. Mirko is adamant about combining A Special Wine from the Heart of Tuscany: Vin Nobile of Montepulciano only the best ingredients, using yogurt from the Italian Alps to make his name- by Ellen Santucci Masi sake product. All of the sauces and top- pings are made with fresh ingredients, including fruit jams, syrups, melted choc- olate concoctions and seasonal fruits. Yogurt & Co. is characterized by an elegant, yet warm and cozy atmosphere, with its playful but refined all-white dé- cor. Having already opened two shops in northern Italy, Mirko inaugurated his Florence location in Spring 2015. It has already proved to be quite popular with the locals and is gaining traction with tourist crowds. One key to the shop’s success is Mirko’s Chianti olive oil that soaks into the bread. philosophy—the product speaks for it- Theirs is of a secret recipe: blending three self. He does not believe in ostentatious grains, including durum wheat, results in a displays in the store windows to sell his lighter loaf, toasted to just the right shade yogurt; the taste and quality of his confec- of gold that remains sturdy enough to tions will speak for themselves. hold the endless variety of toppings. Yogurt and Co. is also gluten-friendly. Owner Daniele Martini chose to focus The frozen yogurt and many of the top- solely on bruschetta for the versatility that pings are made according to celiac stan- it offers: boasting over 30 varieties, the dards and kept separate from the products menu he created contains seemingly end- that do contain gluten, so those with di- less combinations for those looking for etary restrictions can indulge worry-free. an alternative to pizza. All are named for Prices range from €3 - €5. towns in Tuscany: building on the toast, Yogurt & Co. opens at 10 am, seven olive oil, and garlic base, Bolgheri is a tasty days a week. or those in search of the true Tuscan before serving. The bouquet is delicate yet Prugnolo Gentile, a clone of that main- combo of porcini mushrooms and pro- experience, one should look no fur- intense with a hint of violets and vanilla. stay of Tuscan reds, Sangiovese, along with sciutto under a blanket of melted cheese, F ther than Montepulciano. Rightly Its full-bodied depth pairs well with red Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo, are the while Gaiole stacks speck, squacquerone celebrated for its Vino Nobile wine, steep meat and aged cheese. grapes that produce Vino Nobile. Produc- cheese and mushrooms. alleys and stunning country views, Mon- It was during the latter part of the 18th ers belong to the Corsorzio, the Association Montalcino is a colorful and savory tepulciano is perhaps the quintessential century that the word nobile (noble) was of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. combination of squacquerone cheese, Tuscan hilltop town. Located south of used to describe this wine. During this pe- The Corsorzio helps to decide the future sun-dried tomatoes, capers, fresh basil and and and a half-hour drive riod, the wine had also begun to gain fame direction of Vino Nobile, debating such is- red chicory. Pietrasanta is as photogenic from Chiusi, this popular town is still well in other parts of the world. Voltaire men- sues as whether to move toward more in- as the elegant seaside resort for which it worth a visit from Florence. tioned it in his book Candide, and even novative methods of production or to stay is named: select smoked salmon drizzled For centuries, the echo of the famed President Thomas Jefferson knew of and with traditional methods. In recent years, with balsamic vinegar sits on a bed of let- Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has sound- extolled its virtues. there have been experiments made with tuce and a hint of creamy cheese. Besides ed well beyond the borders of the lovely The 1960s and 70s represented another other varieties of wine, in particular Cab- the wine from Barberino Val d’Elsa, a spe- town from which it comes. Its fine qual- important period for wine production in ernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which tend to cial Tuscan feature to the drink menu is a ities have been recognized throughout the Montepulciano. The 1963 approval of the make the Sangiovese softer and more inter- selection of artisanal beers from the Garf- world even though it is has always been Designation of Origin (DOC) regulation nationally popular. agnana and Casentino mountain regions. sparingly produced on the slopes just east made it possible to establish order in the Efforts have been made to better incor- Johnny’s is open for lunch starting at 12 of Montepulciano. The landscape’s soft wine world. Tuscany distinguished itself in porate food and wine tourism with the rich noon, Monday through Saturday. tufa volcanic rock helps to create the res- 1966 when Vernaccia di San Gimignano culture of Italy. Tourists now arrive during onance of a wine that is an integral part of was awarded the first Italian DOC, fol- all months of the year, and itineraries have YOGURT & CO. Italian culture. lowed by Brunello di Montalcino, Bianco been established to guide the traveler’s in- he owner, Mirko Coco, hails from Ranging in color from deep garnet in a di Pitigliano and finally Vino Nobile di troduction to products such as wines and TRomagna and is very passionate mature wine to ruby red in a young one, Montepulciano. With the 1980 harvest, olive oils. Visitors to Montepulciano’s wine about frozen yogurt. After seeing many Vino Nobile must be treated like the aris- Vino Nobile was awarded the even more estates, such as Avignonesi, Crociani and yogurt shops come and go in Florence, tocrat it is, and must be opened 2-3 hours elite DOCG “guaranteed” appellation. Salcheto, can also explore on their own.

16 17 opening TUSCANY’S CULTURAL GUIDE centerfield

At the summit, the tranquil Tuscan Clevsi and was one of the more powerful ancient and makes an impressive sound town, with a population of about 8,800 and cities. While many of the tombs in the area when opened. After one’s eyes adjust to the a handful of day-trippers, is immediately are not open to visitors due to safety issues, darkness inside the tomb, they are dazzled welcoming. Chiusi has a rich history and La Tomba del Leone (the tomb of the lion), once again, this time by the bright colors of boasts archeological finds that date back La Tomba della Scimmia (the tomb of the the well- preserved frescoes in the atrium. to the Iron Age and span three ancient monkey), and La Pellegrina are all open on These frescoes depict scenes from sympo- civilizations: the Etruscans, the Romans select days of the week. These “painted” sia and funeral games. All are original with and the Lombards. Consequently, the tiny tombs are particularly special as they fea- the exception of a tiny section, which has city offers many cultural sites, which, due ture their original Etruscan frescoes inside. been taken to the museum and seamlessly to its size, are quite possible to explore in The integrity of tombs in Chiusi has replaced with a reproduction. one day. Among the must-sees are the Na- been preserved as best as possible so that tional Etruscan Museum and the painted visitors may have an accurate description THE MUSEUM Etruscan tombs located in the countryside of Etruscan burial practices. In fact, La ack in downtown Chiusi, just across surrounding the city center, as well as the Pellegrina features untouched urns and Bthe street from the cathedral, is the Na- underground city and cathedral. sarcophagi, which remain in their original tional Etruscan Museum, which houses the positions. Other objects of the tombs how- contents of the tombs and other treasures THE PAINTED TOMBS ever, such as jewelry, weapons and other found in local excavations. Exhibits are or- AND MUSEUM items that were buried with the dead, have ganized chronologically and thematically, n the surrounding hills lie many Etrus- been moved to the museum for preserva- beginning with the Bronze Age. All types Ican tombs, several of which are open for tion. of Etruscan pottery can be seen alongside guided visits. The Etruscans, a pre-Roman Guests can also visit the impressive tomb some Greek and Roman pieces for com- civilization, occupied Tuscany as well as Il Colle, located farther away from the main parison of style and materials. Among the parts of Umbria and until conquered cluster beneath a grand tree and surround- types of pottery are the special buccheri, by the Romans in the late 4th century BC. ed by wildflowers. The to the tomb, typical black pottery vases of Chiusi from Chiusi was known to the Etruscans as while not the original as once thought, is the 6th century BC. There are also replicas

ith its ancient painted tombs, muse- ums and underground passageways, TIMELESS Chiusi offers a rare opportunity for the modern traveler to experience Tuscany’sW Etruscan past. After hours of navigating through street renovations TUSCANY and tour groups, sometimes one needs a change of pace from Florentine life. Situated a little over two hours south Glimpses of Tuscany’s Intact Past at the of Florence in the Valdichiana region and noted by Latin historian Servio as one of the oldest Etruscan cities, Chi- Etruscan city of Chiusi. A visit to the usi offers a great day trip and a literal breath of fresh air. For fares just under €13 with Trenitalia, Chiusi is Ancient Secret Town, the Archeological easily reachable via a scenic train ride. The Val di Chi- ana region, which lies between Arezzo and Siena, is Museum & Etruscan Tombs known for its production of wine, olive oil and honey. From the windows, it is easy to spot vineyards and olive by Isabella Grezzi groves among the rolling hills, along with the occa- photos by Guido Cozzi sional abandoned castle ruins. Chiusi itself is on a hill, Tomb decoration photos su concessione della Sovrintendenza with the modern half of the town at the base and the Archeologica della Toscana - Firenze historic neighborhood at the top. Once the train ar- rives at the Chiusi-Chianciano Terme station, a quick 10-minute bus ride will take visitors to the summit. However, as it is only 2km away, the more intrepid travelers may want to hike the rest of the way, all while taking in the picturesque landscape.

18 19 centerfield TUSCANY’S CULTURAL GUIDE sightseeing of the tombs, along with miniature models usi is built over a network of subterranean As the winding continues, one descends of the area. passages, which have a unique history and deeper into the ground, arriving at the Downstairs, the museum continues with continue to be used today. This part of the “Epigraphical” section, which houses a col- Roman and Lombard artifacts that were city is accessible as part of the Civic Mu- lection of over 300 Etruscan funerary urns found in the area. The collection ranges seum for just € 4 euro Tuesday through and tombstones. Most of the urns dating from statuettes and busts to large terracotta Sunday. from the late 1st century AD are bilin- pots used by the Romans. The first section of the museum, known gual and document the linguistic change At the front desk of the museum, guests as the Labyrinth section, begins above that took place after the city became Ro- can ask for a tablet from the front desk, ground and acquaints visitors with the man. The names became Romanized, but which will provide them with a self-guided history and geology. Guests then descend oftentimes locals would keep their Etrus- tour of the museum. Each artifact and sec- into the 130 meters of tunnels that lead to can names, resulting in the inscription of tion throughout has an individual QR code the church tower and were constructed as two names on the urn. For instance, one that can be scanned or typed into the app, a water supply for the city. These are also urn that bears the name of a male resi- which will then display a quick blurb about thought to be the maze of paths that sur- dent buried at the end of the 1st century the object, as well as a more detailed report round the tomb of Etruscan king Porsenna. AD reads in Latin, “C(aius) Vensius C(ai) and pictures. The bilingual app can also be According to legend, Porsenna was buried f(ilius) Canus,” while in Etruscan it says downloaded on a guests’ personal tablet or in an elaborate tomb surrounded by five “Vel Venzile Alfnalisle.” Inscriptions such smart phone, and is available for Apple and pyramids under the city he ruled, and local as this one have been invaluable to scholars Android. The entrance ticket for the mu- lore has it that this is the very spot. studying Etruscans, as well as the process seum also includes the visits to the tombs. To enter the following section of the mu- of assimilation into Roman society. The tombs can be visited at 11 am and 4 seum, cross the street and go down a set of pm from March to October, 11 am and stairs that, once again, lead to damp and PARCO DEI FORTI 2:30 pm between November and February musty passageways beneath. Here one will AND THE CATHEDRAL while the museum is open from 9 am to 8 find the wine cellars of the Bonci Casuccini fter reemerging from the deep recesses pm daily, admission € 6. Palace, which were used up until the 1950s. Aof the earth, there is still more to ex- This section also takes guests to the ancient plore above ground. Why not soak up some UNDERGROUND CHUISI Etruscan well, where they can gaze down rays with a picnic in Parco dei Forti, sur- Perhaps the most evocative part of the several hundred feet to the underground rounded by a stunning view of Tuscany and city, however, is found underground. Chi- pond of Fontebranda. the gentle hum of bumblebees?A number of piazzas also offer a lovely vista of the sur- rounding vineyards and cottages, as well as a view of the placid Lago di Chiusi (Lake Il cucinone Chiusi). For those who prefer a more for- mal dining experience, Chiusi offers sever- al quality restaurants featuring local dishes HISTORIC TUSCAN and homemade pasta. Before leaving Chiusi, head over to the cathedral and its museum. The dimly lit cathedral, which dates to the 6th century, KITCHENS by Bianca Cockrell is quiet and free from swarms of visitors, ‘IL CUCINONE’ at PITTI allowing its beauty to be fully appreciated. The Reopening of Pitti’s ‘Cucinone’ Where was the dining room? Evidently it was in the furthest corner The church is a unique mixture of mod- from the heart of the Pitti Palace . . . the kitchen. ern and ancient. In the central nave of the & ’s ‘Antiche Cucine’ church is a false mosaic by Arturo Viligiardi , with her husband Grand Duke Cosimo I (1869-1936), which sparkles when rays of his year, Milan hosts the Expo, a global gathering of de’Medici, purchased the property that would become the Pitti sunshine come peeking through the win- hundreds of countries. This year’s theme is “Feeding the Palace and in 1549. This acquisition remained dows. The Cathedral museums showcase T Planet,” geared toward exploring modern solutions to modest as they preferred their residence at Palazzo Vecchio, and more art, such as “Madonna and Child” nutrition and food access for the world’s population. Building off thus a kitchen of appropriate size was not constructed until their by Sano di Pietro (1406-1481), a painting of this theme, two ancient kitchens at estates belonging to the son, Grand Duke Ferdinando I, permanently moved into Pitti on canvas instead of the customary wood Medici family in the greater Florence area have been reopened for some 30 years later. and “Blessing of Christ” by Matteo Rosselli public viewing. Completed after 11 years, just in time to be used for the wedding (1578-1650). There is also a reliquary cross, Both cooking facilities are similar in appearance, reflecting the banquets celebrating his daughter Marie’s marriage to King Henry made from copper and gemstones dating customs and architecture of their times. High, arched ceilings IV of France, the Cucinone, or large kitchen, is a labyrinth of to 1436. Before leaving Chiusi, take a few crown the massive rooms sized to allow ample mobility for the rooms, corridors, closets and courtyards. moments to wander along its small wind- cooks, servants and maids to follow their daily routine. Long stone Emphasizing class division as well as the culinary convenience ing roads or sit in quiet contemplation be- counters stretch parallel to the walls, flat and smooth for cutting of working in one central location, the kitchens and their numer- side the in the main piazza where and preparing food, often with built-in precursors to modern stove ous stoves, ovens and three large fireplaces are separated from the little has changed—above all the peaceful burners. Basins hewn into the tables once held countless dirty main buildings of the palace, connected by a covered bridge, at the atmosphere—for centuries. dishes waiting to be washed. farthest spot away from the dining areas.

20 21 sightseeing A 16th century Flemish painting at Poggio a Caiano ing dramatic shadows on the scenes. Early works of such artists as Filippo Napoletano and Jan van der Straet (known in Italy as Giovanni Stradano) feature their subjects Established in 1868 with some form of still life accompani- ment; Napoletano’s “Seller of Snails” is of a man siting at a table with a plate of snails in front of him. As the Baroque movement The Art of Painting With Stone continued to evolve, most painters began to focus on individuals, as seen in the “Portrait of a Female Cook” by Niccolò Cassana (1707). Be the Proud Owner of a Mosaic Masterpiece Many are marked by their highly realistic details, a controversial idea for the time, ex- That has been a tradition since the days of the renaissance emplified by eight Bartolomeo Bimbi can- vases all depicting still lifes of fruit. Their gorgeous overall quality is considered a “celebration of God’s creation,” yet each was crafted with sharp precision that serves as a testament to the scientific scholarship of the Medici court. This almost contradic- tory juxtaposition of man, nature and reli- gion continued the humanist themes and questions of the Renaissance. The exhibition also includes antique utensils, ceramic pieces, copper bowls, pud- ding molds, mortars, ladles and other items Later, in the nineteenth century, due to ing countryside, but plans were shelved and that would have been used in the daily food Grand Duke Leopold II and following work ceased upon his death in 1492. His preparation. rulers’ preferences for other more modern son Giovanni, more commonly known as At Pitti and Poggio a Caiano, kitchens of amenities, the Pitti kitchen was essen- the first Medici , resumed and the various Medici households represented tially abandoned and turned into stor- finished the project 20 years afterward. both everyday and extravagant lifestyles, age space for Palatine Gallery paintings. When Cosimo II took power over a given that their chefs cooked simple sup- Consequently, before being reopened to century later, he commissioned engineer pers, and would create elaborate dinners the public, a considerable amount of resto- Gherardo Mechini to design and complete and desserts for the deluxe parties thrown ration was necessary to return the space to a new kitchen (1614-19) at this country by their elite employers. In these ancient its former splendor. home, a single large complex outside of the settings, it is easy to imagine the effort re- 19th century inlay mosaic wall panel The renovation began with simple clean- main building, to which it was connected quired for such results – and easier still to ing: the blue floral tiles have been rebuilt by a corridor. appreciate modern culinary conveniences. and polished where necessary, and most Certain rooms were used to cook for the By stepping into these rooms, surrounded iron pieces like grills, grates and oven court and its visitors, while others were by ancient devices used so long ago, one doors have been repaired and refurbished. utilized specifically for the Grand Duke’s truly feels a part of history. Crisscrossing wires, evidence of a rudimen- meals. In a twist of irony, the communal tary intercom system, are visible overhead. court space has since been converted into MUSEUM EXHIBITIONS AND After an investment of three months of private apartments, and what was once PAINTING GALLERY HOURS: labor and 100,000 euros, it is spotless and a kitchen exclusively used for the ruler of Cucinone, Pitti Palace: open for guided ready to receive visitors. Displaying its Tuscany is now open to all members of the tours Tuesday through Sunday, 10:30 – functional and impressive original arrange- public. 11:30; 3:30 – 4:30; and until October 25: ment, ‘Il Cucinone’ brings to mind a period Complementing this special access, di- “In the Ancient Kitchen” Villa di Poggio a movie set. rector Maria Matilde Simari and curators Caiano: free exhibition open 9 am – 6 pm; have turned the top floor into a gallery of kitchen access requires a reserved, guided THE POGGIO A CAINO Italian and Flemish paintings from the tour available Friday – Sunday 10:30 am, ‘ANTICHE CUCINE’ late sixteenth to mid-eighteenth centuries. 12:30, 2:30 and 4:30 pm by calling 055 19th century box with mosaic inlay panels 19th century gilt book binding with Thirteen miles from Pitti, Lorenzo the Divided thematically, each of the three 877012. mosaic inlay decoration Magnificent began construction at what sections features an aspect of culinary life: Visitors can find the ancient kitchen at would become another Medici country kitchens, cooks and pantries. Poggio a Caiano by way of a lower gate home, . He select- A majority of the pieces presented are outside of the villa’s impressive double Lungarno Acciaiuoli, 66-70/r • Florence • Phone & Fax: 055.284969 ed the area for its prominent position as a of the dynamic Baroque style, set against staircase, while at Pitti via a bridge con- vantage point perched over the surround- dark backdrops with stark lighting, cast- necting to the first floor. www.ugolinimosaici.com • [email protected]

22 music & dance TUSCANY’S CULTURAL GUIDE music & dance

See details on October 20 Friday at 8 pm 17 Tuesday at 10 am Tuesday at 8 pm Opera di Firenze Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 To Sing, To Dance Cosi Fan Tutte, See details on October 20 Maggio Musicale Orchestra See details on November 11 Michele Mariotti, Conductor MUSIC CALENDAR Tuesday at 9 pm Music of Fauré and Schubert 18 Wednesday at 10 am and 8 pm SEPTEMBER 27 Sunday at 3:30 pm Sunday at 8 pm To Sing, To Dance Lucia di Lammermoor Maggio Musicale Orchestra Piano Concert by Lilya Zilberstein 14 Saturday at 10 am See details on November 11 To Sing, To Dance See details on September 22 See details on October 8 Music of Schumann, Brahms and Liszt 21 Monday at 9 pm Pisa Cathedral See details on November 11 19 Thursday at 8 pm 28  Opera di Firenze, Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 Baroque Academy 29 Tuesday at 8 pm 13 Tuesday at 10 am Wednesday at 10 am Phillip von Steinaecker, Conductor Angela The Magic Flute The True Story of the of Mozart Saturday at 8 pm Maggio Musicale Orchestra Lucia di Lammermoor Stefano Montanari, Conductor Nisi, Soprano Cristina Melis, Contralto See details on October 6 See details on October 20 Maggio Musicale Orchestra See details on September 22 Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and music of Beethoven See details on November 13 22 Tuesday at 8 pm Opera di Firenze 17 Saturday at 9 pm 30 Friday at 8 pm Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 30 Wednesday at 8 pm 21 Saturday at 4 pm , via Ghibellina Opera di Firenze, Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 Saturday at 4 pm Teatro della Pergola Lucia di Lammermoor Lucia di Lammermoor Maggio Musicale Orchestra Teatro della Pergola Orchestra della Toscana Piano Concert The World of the Quartet Maggio Musicale Orchestra See details on September 22 Roland Böer, Conductor Fabrizio Maria Carminati, Conductor Daniele Rustioni, Conductor by Mariangela Vacatello Emerson David Geringas, Cello Music of Schumann, Ravel and Liszt Music of Brahms and Schubert Opera by Donizetti 31 Saturday at 4 pm Music of Varese, Dvorak, and Schumann Teatro della Pergola OCTOBER 15 Sunday at 9 pm 22 Sunday at 8 pm 23 Wednesday at 8 pm Duets and Trios by Ludwig van Beethoven Lucia di Lammermoor 20 Tuesday at 10 am Teatro della Pergola (Saloncino) Opera di Firenze, Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 4 Sunday at 8 pm Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Maria, 15 Clemens Hagen, Cello Maggio Musicale Orchestra See details on September 22 Kirill Gerstein, Piano The Art of Singing Opera di Firenze, Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 The True Story of the Requiem of Mozart , Conductor Kolja Blacher, Violin Wolfram Rieger, Pianist Rickshaw Boy Maggio Musicale Orchestra Beethoven’s Eroica Wednesday at 9 pm Music of Mozart and Hence Luca Pisaroni, Bass-Baritone Maggio Musicale Orchestra Lorenzo Fratini, Conductor Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina Zhang Guoyong, Conductor Music of Schubert, Bellini, Rossini, Play It! Contemporary Music Festival Sunday at 9 pm Opera by Wenjing Donaudy and Tosti Orchestra della Toscana, Tuesday at 8 pm Teatro della Pergola (Saloncino) NOVEMBER Daniele Rustioni, Conductor, Opera di Firenze, piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 The World of the Quartet 5 Monday at 8 pm Cosi Fan Tutte, opera by Mozart Sunday at 3:30 pm Emerson String Quartet Andrea Tacchi, Violin, 3 Tuesday at 10 am Flavio Giuliani, Oboe, Rickshaw Boy The Embers See details on November 5 Music of Haydn, Bartók and Tchaikovsky See details on October 4 Opera di Firenze, Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 Music of Lena, Casale, Bosco, 20 Tuesday at 9 pm Sebastiano All’Opera for the family 16 Monday at 9 pm 28 Saturday at 11:30am Ravera, and Corgi Teatro della Pergola 6 Tuesday at 10 am Cherubini Conservatory Youth Orchestra Teatro della Pergola Italian Youth Orchestra Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina Concetta Anastasi, Conductor Interpreters Tell the Music 24 Thursday at 8 pm Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Maria, 15 Stanislav Kochanovsky, Conductor Münster Symphonic Orchestra Trio di Lucia di Lammermoor The Magic Flute Music of Glinka, Prokofiev and Rachmaninov 5 Thursday at 10 am Fabrizio Ventura, Conductor Joseph Hector, Contrabass See details on September 22 Maggio Musicale Orchestra Opera di Firenze Isabelle van Keulen, Violin Simonides Braconi, Violet Massimiliano Caldi, Conductor Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 Music of Brahms and Beethoven 21 Wednesday at 10 am Music of Schubert Thursday at 9 pm Pisa Cathedral Opera by Mozart The True Story of the Requiem of Mozart The Embers Monteverdi Choir and English Baroque See details on October 20 Maggio Musicale Orchestra , Conductor 7 Wednesday at 10 am Francesco Cilluffo, Conductor The Magic Flute Wednesday at 8 pm Opera by Tutino See details on October 6 Thursday at 9 pm Cosi Fan Tutte 7 Saturday at 4 pm Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 8 Thursday at 10 am See details on October 20 Teatro della Pergola Play It! Contemporary Music Festival The Magic Flute The World of the Quartet 22 Thursday at 10 am Orchestra della Toscana See details on October 6 Belsea Quartet The True Story of the Requiem of Mozart Franceco Lanzillotta, Conductor Music of Haydn, Bartók and Beethoven See details on October 20 Francesco Dillon, Cello Thursday at 8 pm 8 Sunday at 9 pm Emanuele Torquati, Piano Cenacolo di Santa Croce Thursday at 8 pm Teatro della Pergola (Saloncino) Music of Manzoli, Antonioni, Pagliei, Cascioli and Montalbetti Cosi Fan Tutte See details on October 20 The World of the Quartet Maggio Musicale Orchestra Belsea Quartet Federico Maria Sardelli, Conductor 25 Friday at 9 pm 24 Saturday at 4 pm Till Fellner, Piano Music of Bach, Haydn and Mozart Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina Teatro della Pergola Music of Mozart, Webern and Brahms Play It! Contemporary Music Festival Piano Concert by Arcadi Volodos 9 Friday at 10 am 9 Monday at 10 am Orchestra della Toscana Music of Brahms and Schubert The Magic Flute The Embers Luca Pfaff, Conductor See details on October 6 Saturday at 8 pm See details on November 5 Music of Farulli, Filotei, Terranova, Opera di Firenze Gentilucci, and Ronchetti Friday at 8 pm Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 11 Wednesday at 10 am Cenacolo di Santa Croce, Maggio Musicale Orchestra Teatro Goldoni 26 Saturday at 8 pm Piazza Santa Croce Diego Matheuz, Conductor Via Santa Maria, 15 Opera di Firenze, Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 Music of Schumann and Mendelssohn To Sing, To Dance for the family Maggio Musicale Orchestra Mozart Requiem Maggio Musicale Orchestra Musica Antica Ensemble a Juraj Valcuha, Conductor 25 Sunday at 3:30 pm nd Cherubini Conservatory musicians Music of Dvorak, Zodaly and Janacek Lorenzo Fratini, Conductor Cosi Fan Tutte Carlomoreno Volpini, Conductor

Saturday at 9 pm 10 Saturday at 4:30 pm See details on October 20 Monday at 10 am Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina The Magic Flute The Embers Play It! Contemporary Music Festival Sunday at 4 pm See details on October 6 See details on November 5 Orchestra Della Toscana Teatro della Pergola (Saloncino) The Art of Singing Marco Angius, Conductor Friday at 8 pm 12 Thursday at 10 am and 8 pm Luigi Attademo, Guitar Mozart Requiem Bruno Canino, Piano To Sing, To Dance Riccardo Massai, Narration See details on October 9 Paul Bordogna, Baritone See details on November 11 Paolo Carlini, Oboe Music of Rossini Luca Mosca, Piano 13 Friday at 10 am Roberto Fabriciani, Flute 11 Sunday at 4:30 pm The Magic Flute 27 Tuesday at 10 am To Sing, To Dance Music of Solbiati, Emanuele Cella, Manzoni, The True Story of the Requiem of Mozart Ambrosini, Mosca, and Montalti See details on October 6 See details on November 11

24 25 music & dance TUSCANY’S CULTURAL GUIDE music & dance

28 Saturday at 4 pm Angelic Voices and Harps Teatro della Pergola DECEMBER Maggio Musicale Women’s Choir Andrea Tacchi Trio di Parma Lorenzo Fratini, Conductor Joseph Hector, Double bass 2 Wednesday at 9 pm Music of Brahms, Ibert, Verdi, Fauré and Britten Simonides Braconi, Viola Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina Music of Haydn, Mozart and Schubert Orchestra della Toscana 6 Sunday at 3:30 pm Dietrich Paredes, Conductor See detail on December 4 29 Sunday at 9 pm Sergey Khachatryan, Violin Teatro della Pergola (Saloncino) Music of Beethoven, Bruch, and Tchaikovsky 9 Wednesday at 8 pm Trio di Parma Rigoletto See detail on December 4 Simonides Braconi, Viola 4 Friday at 8 pm Music of Haydn, Kagel and Mozart Opera di Firenze, Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 11 Friday at 8 pm Rigoletto Opera di Firenze, Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 30 Monday at 9 pm Maggio Musicale Orchestra Maggio Musicale Orchestra Teatro della Pergola (Saloncino) Zubin Mehta, Conductor Daniele Gatti, Conductor Selmer Saxharmonic Opera by Verdi. Music of Beethoven Music of Händel, Dvorák, Milhaud, Gershwin and Mititia 5 Saturday at 8 pm 12 Saturday at 8 pm Cenacolo di Santa Croce, Piazza Santa Croce Rigoletto See details on December 4

13 Sunday at 4:30 pm Opera di Firenze, Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 Maggio Musicale Boys Choir Lorenzo Fratini, Conductor Music of Gounod and Chilcott

15 Tuesday at 8 pm Rigoletto See details on December 4

17 Thursday at 8 pm Opera di Firenze, Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 GREAT MUSIC since 1920 Maggio Musicale Orchestra Zubin Mehta, Conductor Music of Beethoven and Brahms © Sophie Zhai

© Brigitte Lacombe © Brigitte 18 Friday at 8 pm Rigoletto See details on December 4

19 Saturday at 8 pm Maggio Musicale Orchestra THE FALL MUSIC SCENE See details on December 17 For fall 2015, the Orchestra Regionale della Toscana (ORT) has a line-up of symphonic concerts in Florence at Teatro Verdi and katia e marielle labèque paolo bordogna ray chen 20 Sunday at 3:30 pm in various cities of Tuscany. A full range of productions is the realm of the Opera di Firenze, and chamber music the specialty of the Rigoletto See details on December 4 Amici della Musica in the intimate setting of Teatro della Pergola. 22 Tuesday at 9 pm by Anne Lokken Camposanto Pisa CONCERT SEASON Accademia degli Innocentia ORT Maria Cristina Khier, Soprano The Orchestra Regionale Toscana presents its award-winning theme of “doubt” and its relation to the making of art in today’s Amadine Beyer, Violin 2015-2016 festival of contemporary, futuristic Italian music this year from society, and how to create synergies and exchanges between the Tuesday at 9 pm September 23-26. This will be the fourth edition and, as in the arts, the critics, and philosophical and intellectual thought. th nd National Museum past, the festival provides a unique opportunity for performing and New to this edition of Play It! are important collaborations in- OCTOBER 20 - MAY 2 Flame Ensemble Music of Quindici, Berni, Agnes, and Lorusso hearing new music, which is so often neglected in concert halls. volving the Music Conservatories of Rome and Florence, the Pre- The title - Play It! - refers to the double meaning in English of mio Farulli for best string quartet composition, the Luigi Pecci TEATRO della PERGOLA Florence Tuesday at 9 pm Pisa Cathedral the word to play, meaning both to perform music and to play as a Center for Contemporary Art inPrato, the University of Florence National Academy child, with a sense of fun. and EXPO 2015. of Saint Cecilia Orchestra and Choir Teatro Verdi will come alive with meetings, debates, award cere- Daniele Rustioni, the orchestra’s music director, opens the ORT Harmut Haenchen, Conductor © Pavel Antonov © Pavel

© Marco Borggreve © Marco Malin Hartelius, Soprano monies and concerts inviting interaction between the audience and season on October 17 with music by French composer Edgar © Arkadiusz Berbecki Patrick Grahl, Tenor the protagonists of the varied and vital contemporary music scene. Varèse (1883-1965), Dvorak and Schumann. On November 16, Alejandro Marco-Buhrmester, Bass Well-known composers, along with rising young talents, will have the ORT hosts the Münster Symphony Orchestra with Fabrizio 23 Wednesday at 8 pm the opportunity to meet together to discuss their work, seeking to Ventura, conductor and Isabelle van Keulen as violin soloist. Opera di Firenze, Piazzale Vittorio Gui, 1 demonstrate how music is primarily a territory of freedom from A Christmas Eve concert features Donato Renzetti, who was Christmas Concert: The Nutcracker which to glimpse new possibilities. The program will showcase 21 the principal conductor of the ORT from 1987-1992. An interna- Maggio Musicale Orchestra denis matsuev quartetto meccorre luca pisaroni Vladimir Jurowski, Conductor composers, four conductors, nine soloists, 17 world premiers, two tionally respected specialist in Italian melodrama, he has conduct- Music of Tchaikovsky Italian premieres and eight new works commissioned directly by ed all over the world, including many times at the Met. With con- Abbonamenti e Biglietti: AMICI DELLA MUSICA FIRENZE the ORT. certmaster Andrea Tacchi, they will spotlight a 1993 work by Sir 055.608420 / 055.607440 24 Thursday at 5 pm [email protected] - www.amicimusica.fi.it seguici su Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina A series of encounters will be devoted to reflection on culture, Peter Maxwell Davies from 1993 entitled A Spell for Green Corn: Orchestra della Toscana creativity and artistic production today. Musicians, philosophers, The MacDonald Dances, a musical blessing of the crops based on an Donato Renzetti, Conductor artists, art critics, journalists and university professors have been Orkney saying ‘Let not plough be put to acre except a fiddle cross Andrea Tacchi, Violin invited by the artistic director, Giorgio Battistelli, to debate on the first the furrow.’ Music of Bach, Respighi, Davies, and Dvorak

26 27 music & dance TUSCANY’S CULTURAL GUIDE notes IN TOWN & AROUND

INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Cinema buffs rejoice: fall is the time for film in Florence. The ninth year of 50 Days will again bring a vast selection of interna- tionally flavored documentaries and dramas to the screens of Cin- ema Odeon from October 29 to December 13. Table discussions with the filmmakers, workshops, musical performances and more will supplement the rich program. France Odeon will inaugurate “50 Days,” as some of the bright- est French and Italian stars, such as Laura Morante and Charles Aznavour, come to dazzle Florentine audiences (Oct. 29 – Nov. 1). As a celebration of global images and music, Ethnomusic (Nov. 2 - 4) will fill the space with sounds and scenes from around the world, sending Argentinian dancers to Finland in A Midsummer’s Night Tango and witnessing the tiny Serbian village of Guča host A scene from an entry in the Women’s Film Festival the largest trumpet festival in Brasslands. Women in Film, from actresses to directors to producers and be- ity and identity issues to the theater. A new tribute to Prince Mau- yond, will present their works; all of which surely pass the Bechdel rice, the product of director Daniele Sartori, will premier, detailing test, devised to see the representation of dynamic female characters this icon of the 1990s nightlife scene (Nov. 16 – 17). on screen.To pass, there must be a scene of dialogue between two Art on Screen (Lo Schermo dell’Arte) juxtaposes the latest trends Arcadi Volodos women in which they discuss any subject other than a man. The of international art and cinema. This year’s focus is on the late Gilda Prize and the Sign of Peace Award will also be given (Nov. German filmmaker, Harun Farocki, premiering his final work, 5 – 10). Parallel I-IV, as a homage to his distinct style: he uses the col- OPERA DI FIRENZE AMICI DELLA MUSICA Cinema Odeon will have a rainbow glow as the Florence Queer lages assembled from pre-existing footage of various sources to For those who love arias, the place to go is the Opera of Florence, The award-winning Amici della Musica of Florence is one Festival opens, accompanied by themes of LGBTQ rights, sexual- comment politically and socially on public ideologies. Bangla- home of the renowned Maggio Musicale orchestra and choir. The of the oldest musical associations in Italy, founded in 1920, and season kicks off with Donizetti’s Lucia di Lammermoor (October offers the city a rich and varied program of chamber music and Calendar 6 - 16), the tragic, gothic love story set in the misty Scottish moors solo recitals of the highest artistic quality each year. The 2015-16 based on the novel by Sir Walter Scott. The American soprano season will begin on October 20 with a special concert featuring Oct. 29 – Dec. 13 50 DAYS OF Jessica Pratt stars as Lucia in a popular production from 1996 by the Italian Youth Orchestra conducted by Stanislav Kochanovsky INTERNATIONAL CINEMA the English director Graham Vick. featuring Russian works. Cinema Odeon Based on the novel of the same name, Rickshaw Boy, composed The concerts will appeal to listeners with varied tastes in mu- www.50giornidicinema.com by Guo Wenjing and commissioned by the National Centre for sic, with a series featuring the string quartet, the solo piano, and the Performing Arts in Beijing, debuted in June 2014. The opera is for lovers of vocal music, a series entitled L’arte del canto (the art Until Nov. 15 scheduled for October 4 and 5, with orchestra, chorus and soloists of singing). During the last week of October there will be per- CARLO DOLCI Palatine Gallery, Pitti Palace from the China. formances by Russian pianist, Arcadi Volodos, playing Schubert Open Tuesday – Sunday 8:15 am – 6:50 pm Mozart’s opera buffa (comic opera) Così fan Tutte will be on stage and Brahms, and an evening of Rossini with the baritone Paolo Admission: €13 October 18-27. The story of two young couples testing their fideli- Bordogna accompanied by none less than the great master of the ty in the third and final collaboration between Wolfgang Amadeus piano, Bruno Canino. Until Nov. 19 Mozart and the librettist Lorenzo Da Ponte, this opera was first Continuing with vocal music, in November bass-baritone Luca PLASTIC SHAPES BY FRANCESCA PASQUALI performed in Vienna in 1790. The conductor will be Roland Böer, Pisaroni will sing an evening of chamber songs accompanied by CONTEMPORARY ART 50 DAYS staging by Lorenzo Mariani. the pianist Wolfgang Rieger. Audiences can look forward to the Via Maggio 58/R OF INTERNATIONAL CINEMA IN FLORENCE Rigoletto by returns to the Opera of Florence multiple-Emmy Award-winning Emerson String Quartet on No- Open Monday: 3 - 7:30 pm OCTOBER 28th/ DECEMBER 12TH2015 - FLORENCE for seven performances from December 4-20, conducted by the vember 16 and 17. The Selmer Saxharmonic, a 12-member saxo- Tuesday - Friday: 10:30 am - 1 pm Maggio Musicale Fiorentino’s music director Zubin Mehta in a phone orchestra, will give a personalized rendition of arrangements and 3 - 7:30 pm production by the Oscar-winning film director William Friedkin. written for them of music by composers ranging from Handel to Saturday: 10:30 am - 1 pm and 2 - 7 pm www.tornabuoniarte.it Set in 16th-century Mantova, the tragic story revolves around the Nino Rota (November 30). dissolute Duke of Mantua, his hunch-backed court jester Rigolet- The captivating piano duo of the sisters Katia and Marielle Until Jan. 24, 2016 to and Rigoletto’s innocent and beautiful daughter Gilda. Labèque perform works from their new cd Sisters on December DIVINE BEAUTY FROM VAN GOGH WWW.50GIORNIDICINEMA.IT The Maggio Musicale offers a rich program of symphonic and 5. The album is a personal account of music that has had a special TO CHAGALL & FONTANA 50GIORNI2015 choral concerts as well. For students, there will be productions at meaning for them from their childhood throughout their profes- Open 10 am - 8 pm daily, Thursday until 11 pm the Teatro Goldoni including span- sional journey. Mitsuko Uchida, another exceptional pianist, to- The Story of the Magic Flute, Admission: €10 ning October 9-16, and To Sing, To Dance, How Opera was Born in gether with the young Quartetto Ebene, will spotlight Schumann’s ------mid-November. masterpiece the Quintet op. 44 in Eb major on December 13. The ***All events are in Florence Amici’s program continues until May 2016. unless otherwise specified

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The Mediterranean isle, separated from the mainland by a one- ACQUA DELL’ELBA hour ferry ride, evokes a world of its own. With its mild climate, by Rita Kungel welcoming locals and slowed down lifestyle, visitors come from with additional reporting by Kate Magovern around the world to “get away from it all.” Inspired by the sea, flowers and woods of Elba, a triad of scents developed by fragrance group Acqua dell’Elba, has been offered in shops on the island and mainland. Visitors to the island have purchased Classica, Arcipelago and Blu since the dawn of the new millennium. Now Acqua dell’Elba introduces a unique fragrance for him and her—Acqua dell’Elba Sport. Sport, unveiled at company headquarters in the village of Mar- ciana Marina in May 2015, proves to be a popular addition to the collection of colognes and skin care products. Reflecting the is- land’s unspoiled nature that lends itself to the activities of sailing, surfing, swimming, diving, hiking and biking, the scent was creat- ed to complement the outdoor life. Created from essences of lemon, bergamot, jasmine, geranium, sea lily, sage, cedar and arbutus, a spritz of Sport immediately of- fers a sensation of freshness. The invigorating yet gentle fragrance evokes the aromas of Elba’s wooded hills and flowering coastlines. Evocating the crispness of Tyrrhenian Sea breezes, Sport is both energizing and elegant. Thoughtfully designed by Acqua dell’Elba’s artisans, this new scent appeals to anyone who enjoys the outdoors. The sleek white handcrafted packaging is as pure and simple as the island’s natural beauty. ust off the Tuscan coast lies the island of Elba, occupied Aqua dell’Elba is a 15-year-old family business. The fragrances Jthroughout history by Etruscans, Romans, Florentines, Span- created in the company’s own laboratories by the hands of knowl- iards, British and French. The landscape varies from wild to pas- edgeable artisans focus on quality, beauty and elegance. toral, with 3340 ft. Mt. Capanne, iron-rich hills in the east and Experience Aqua dell’Elba in Florence on Via dei Calzaiuoli ringed by more than 150 beaches—sand beaches in hues of white, 45r and Piazza San Giovanni 9r (open every day from 10 am – golden, red and black, white pebble beaches, granite lined shores 11 pm. The colorful spectrum of offerings can be seen at www. and rocky cliffs leading down to the crystal blue waters below. acquadellelba.it. deshi-British artist Runa Islam will be in guage of modern art. which is devoted to prayer. attendance, and Giulio Boato will preview The time period in the Another important museum loan is the his new documentary, Jan Fabre: Beyond the retrospective spans the mid-19th to the evocative White Crucifixion by Marc Cha- Artist (Nov. 18 – 22). mid-20th centuries; masters of Realism, gall (1887-1985), arriving in Florence all The Festival dei Popoli (Nov. 27 – Dec. Post-Impressionism, Cubism and Surreal- the way from the Art Institute of Chicago. 5) will, for its 56th year, showcases pow- ism to Symbolism, Futurism and Expres- Painted in 1938, the Hebrew origins of the erful social documentaries.Moviegoers will sionism represent various artistic currents. suffering Christ are clearly expressed as a also be treated to selections from the River Despite the wide range, many of the paint- stance against the Jewish persecutions that to River Florence Indian Festival (Dec. 5 ings are rooted in Naturalism. were occurring in Europe. In sync with - 10), the Scandinavian movies of A Win- Visitors will be able make a compari- Chagall’s message is the colorful Crucifix- dow on the North (Dec. 11 – 13), and the son between Michelangelo’s Pietà Bandini ion (1940-1) by Renato Guttuso, clearly in- N.I.C.E. Festival award for the film Amer- in the Cathedral Museum and a rare Van spired by Picasso’s Guernica and the pain of ican audiences judged the best (Dec. 13). Gogh religious work, Pietà, both featuring conflict as exemplified by the Spanish Civil For more information, visit the website: a dead Christ at the center of the composi- War (1936-9). www.50giornidicinema.it (bianca cockrell) tion. The Van Gogh, in the artist’s distinc- The eclectic Palazzo Strozzi collection of tive style and color palette, is on loan from “Divine Beauty” also comprises pieces by MODERN ART at DIVINE BEAUTY the . Pablo Picasso, Edvard Munch, Max Ernst Held concurrently with the upcoming A showstopper is the beautiful meditative and Henri Matisse, flanked by their Italian inauguration of the new Cathedral Mu- Angelus by Jean-François Millet (1814-75), contemporaries. An intriguing addition to seum (Museo Opera del Duomo) and in which two peasants stop for a moment of the group is Lucio Fontana (1899-1968), Pope Francis’s visit to Florence, is a new prayer in the fields; one can almost hear the best known for his monochrome canvases and unusual exhibition focusing on works bells from the church in the background. enlivened by cuts and slashes. from Van Gogh to Chagall and Fontana on The painting, sent by the Musée d’Orsay, (rosanna cirigliano) depictions of spirituality in the visual lan- is found in “Divine Beauty’s” final section,

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coffee and tea with rice and soy milk op- Craving a traditional American-style are made in a separate oven and are served tions. Customers can choose take-out or breakfast? The Sunday brunch special on separate plates. can dine-in with no cover charge, although features bacon, toast, sausage, scrambled Since any pizza on the menu can be made seating is limited. A hearty sandwich is €5; eggs, and cooked greens. For a vegetarian gluten-free, guests are welcome to choose with a side, €7.90. option, try the quinoa burger, served on a from an extensive list, including simple “I created the restaurant out of a desire lightly toasted gluten-free bun with guaca- favorites such as the margherita (tomato, to share the vegan philosophy with others, mole and coleslaw. Quinoa, vicolo di Santa mozzarella and basil) to more elaborate while also providing a place where veg- Maria Maggiore 1, is open Mon - Sat, 12:30 concoctions such as the capricciosa (arti- ans and celiacs could eat quality food that - 3 pm, 7:30 – 11 pm. chokes, mushrooms, salami and prosciutto) was safe for the environment and for their and the Ciro and Sons original Vesuvio ® health,” says owner Cinzia Re. PIZZA (buffalo mozzarella, truffles, cherry toma- Panino Vegano, via Bufalini 19-21/r is Longing for a Neapolitan pizza that is toes, arugula and Tuscan ham). open Mon – Sat 11:30 am – 3:30 pm. also gluten-free? No need to book any Ciro and Sons pizzas are in a class of train tickets—the perfect pizza can be their own, as everything is made fresh RESTAURANT found right here in Florence at Neapol- on-site. The dough is prepared daily us- Quinoa, certified gluten-free and lo- itan-owned Ciro and Sons. Although ing only cornmeal, cornstarch, rice starch, cated just three minutes from the Duomo, the restaurant is not entirely gluten-free, it potatoes and yeast. These quality ingre- offers a more upscale dining experience. is approved by the AIC. To ensure a safe dients have made the pizzas so popular Tucked away in the historic courtyard of dining experience, the gluten-free pizzas that the restaurant now offers gluten-free a Renaissance building, Quinoa has a dis- tinct charm all its own. Simone Bernacchioni created Quinoa, Florence’s first entirely gluten-free restau- rant, in 2014. Encouraged by a celiac friend, he says he was inspired to create a place where everyone could eat delicious food. Every dish is prepared to perfection, he says, as if he were the one who was going to eat it. Thanks to this high standard of quality, the restaurant attracts celiacs and non-celiacs alike, and has become a favor- A gluten-free dish at Quinoa ite haunt of Florentines who enjoy the laid- back atmosphere and flavorful dishes. On the menu is an eclectic mix of Ital- or the celiac-affected traveler, it can be quite a daunting ian classics such as panzanella di quinoa (a task to find a restaurant that offers safe, gluten-free food salad of raw summer vegetables normally F that is still savory and delicious. Awareness of celiac disease mixed with Tuscan bread; quinoa is a fit- A CELIAC is, however, increasing in Italy, with more and more restaurants ting and delicious substitute), risotto ai car- displaying the red badge of approval from the Italian Celiac As- ciofi (rice with artichokes, when they are in sociation (Associazione Italiana Celiachia, or AIC). The following season), crust-less quiches (sformati), meat DINING restaurants are even taking it a step further; creating a completely cutlets, potatoes stuffed with caponata (Si- gluten-free dining experience that can be enjoyed by all without cilian ratatouille) and a selection of inter- any concern of cross-contamination. national dishes such as Thai spring rolls, salads, veggie burgers, hamburgers as well GUIDE THE SANDWICH EXPERIENCE as hummus paired with fish. Cheesecake Located in the heart of the city, Panino Vegano is Florence’s and an almond cake (sefardita) are among Discovering the City’s Gluten-free only completely gluten-free, vegan, and bio sandwich shop. The the dessert offerings. Local ingredients are popular restaurant opened its doors in April 2014 and has quickly used whenever possible, and the selection Sandwich Shop Restaurant, Pizzeria, become a favorite of both locals and visitors. changes frequently based on what is in sea- As the name suggests, the café specializes in a panino that starts son. Pastry & Gelato Shops with a freshly baked gluten-free bun and a veggie burger made In addition to lunch, dinner and aperiti- by Isabella Grezzi either from chickpeas, lentils or veggies and soy. Next, customers vo (evening drinks and finger food) during can add two types of vegetables such as tomatoes, grilled zucchini, the week, Quinoa also offers a gluten-free with additional reporting by Angela Karl eggplant or peppers. To top it off, there is a selection of sauces brunch on Sundays beginning at 12:30 photos by Kate Magovern & Lakota Gambill ranging from traditional yet gluten-free ketchup and mayonnaise, pm. Guests can choose the buffet option to the more exotic carrot mayonnaise. (€9.50), which includes soymilk, an assort- In addition to the signature sandwich, Panino Vegano also of- ment of baked goods, prosciutto and fruit fers side dishes, salad, pizza, baked goods as well as a combo meal salad, or combine the buffet with a main Quinoa panzanella of a panino and a side. Gluten-free beer is available, as well as dish from the special brunch menu.

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tion is the ideal blend of rich chocolate and delicate sweetness, making it the perfect sophisticated treat. As with all his prod- ucts, Riccardo uses only quality ingredients for the 7 senza, including organic, cold- pressed sunflower oil, organic soymilk and agave nectar as sweetener. In addition to their own products, the shop frequently hosts gluten-free cooking lessons. Pasticcieria Gualtieri, via Senese 18 near Porta Romana, is open Mon – Sat. 7:30 am - 1 pm, 4 - 8 pm and Sun 8 am – 1:30 pm.

GELATO Close to Gualtieri, and also humming with locals, is the entirely gluten-free Ge- lateria Yogurteria Porta Romana, where kind Marisa Polverini, co-owner with her husband Maurizio Gallina, ex- plains that their goal is to make a delicious gelato that is accessible to everyone. If someone is celiac, lactose intolerant or simply prefers eating only natural in- gredients, they have the option to eat deli- cious flavors (such as a mix of mascarpone cheese and Nutella) from homemade gelato makers who have been in the business for 15 years. All fruit flavors are lactose free, as well as some others, and the taste does not suffer in the least. A serving can be “7 senza” at Gualtieri scooped into a gluten-free cone, costing €3 or 3.50, according to size. dough mixes so customers can recreate the On a typical morning at the cozy coffee The shop also makes frozen yogurt, Ciro and Sons experience in their own shop, locals swarm in and out, stopping by which comes with a multitude of toppings homes. Each package costs €4 and can for their morning espresso and breakfast, such as nuts, sprinkles, or chocolate syrup, be purchased in the restaurant or online. attracted by the aroma of just-baked des- all completely gluten-free. A video tutorial in English and Italian serts. Cappuccino can be ordered with a Gelateria Porta Romana, Piazzale di Porta that explains how to make the dough and choice of non-dairy milks. Romana 2 is open daily 11 am – 11 pm. assemble the pizza can be found on the In September 2014, Riccardo began restaurant’s website. creating gluten-free cookies and pastries In downtown Florence, entirely glu- Ciro and Sons, via del Giglio, 28/r is open certified by theAssociazione Italiana Celia- ten-free gelato and granita (similar to an from 12 noon – 3 pm and from 6 – 10:30 pm; chia (Italian Celiac Association), made and American slushy with all-natural ingredi- closed all day on Sunday and Mondays during packaged in a separate kitchen to ensure ents) can be found at Gelateria Carabe, lunch. that they are free from contamination and conveniently located by the Accademia and are safe for those with celiac disease or se- San Marco, making it the perfect stop as PASTRY SHOP vere allergies. Riccardo frequently calls the visitors walk toward the Duomo. Freshly baked vegan and gluten-free Ital- companies to ascertain that the ingredients Featuring rich and creamy flavors like ri- ian desserts can be difficult to find in Flor- he uses are truly safe. He also periodically cotta, chocolate hazelnut, Sicilian pistachio ence, but at the Pasticceria Gualtieri, tests his own pastries for traces of gluten. and many more, the gelateria also has many customers with various dietary restrictions Although Riccardo can make practical- lactose-free, fruity granita flavors that can can quite literally have their cake and eat it ly any pastry gluten-free or vegan upon help tourists cool off from the hot Tuscan too. Located in the Oltrarno, the bakery request, his specialty is the 7 senza. The sun. was founded in 1933 by Alfredo Gualtieri 7 senza, or “7 without,” is an individual With prices for gelato beginning at €2.10 and is currently run by his grandson, Ric- bite-sized chocolate cake glazed with dark (cups and cones) and 2.70 for granita, the cardo. Although the Pasticceria Gualtieri chocolate and made without any eggs, but- owners of this Sicilian-owned gelateria of- has developed throughout the generations, ter, milk, yeast, margarine, sugar or gluten. fers great-tasting gelato with a smile. the family’s dedication to quality and Flo- It is not, however, without taste. On the Gelateria Carabé, via Ricasoli 60/R is open rentine tradition remain constant. contrary, the melt-in-your-mouth confec- 10 am - 2 am.

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