Welcome to the Art City History, Architecture and Beauties of Renaissance

FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®

JUNE 2018 FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM Welcome to the Art City History, architecture and beauties of Renaissance

ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends

ALL THE ALLURE OF TUSCANY Several out-of-town destinations for a fun, relaxing experience

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS Client - McAG Type Area - N/G Initials - MD Outlet - Barberino Bleed - 3mm Scale - 100 Ad Type - Press Date - 15–05–2018 Effective DPI - 300 Publication - Where Florence File Name - BMGBA0018_26_SS18_Barberino_Press_Where- Florence June DPS Press Ad_414x277mm_AW Size - 414x277mm Florence June 2018

V A SI E S T E S E 52 DINING CASTELLO SESTO the guide FIORENTINO

SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A 32 SHOPPING S A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E S VI VIA XXV APRILE

T A E VIA DEL CHIUSO DEI PAZZI G S E Inside Palazzo Spini . DUPRÈ

I N A I L U I G O D L A N I G E R A I V V IA D E L L E PA N C H E Feroni, the Ferragamo

VIA ANDREA COSTA boutique hosts all VIA ANDREA COSTA

VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano the fashion house’s VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I VIA CARLO DEL GRECO Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

VIA PORTIGIANI Cattedrale di San Romolo collections SCONI BO STRAD A PROV INCIALE 54 DEI PIAZZA PIAZZA G.GARIBALDI MINO DA FIESOLE VIA MASSICINI V L. U C C H E S E A

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D PIAZZA E Aeroporto of Marchesi Antinori T Amerigo V I A V E T ENRICO O Vespucci PIGNONE

BADIA L MATTEI VIA MANTELLINI ' A N G E V AI P R A T E S E L I C wines, accompanied by PIZZERIA O V I A U G O C O R S I SAN DOMENICO V. DEL PONTE DI QUARACCHI GIFT GUIDE Convento di San Domenico V. CUPOLA VIA MANTELLINI 24 seasonal Tuscan dishes VIABENE VIALE G. LUDER Angela Caputi Giuggiù VIALE G.B. MORGAGNI

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VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI VIA RENATO FANTONI VIA DELLE PANCHE 52 DINING I VIA D I CARRAIA VIALE XI AGOSTO V. ACCADEMIA CIMENTO IO C CC C V I A A R T U R O F E R R A R I N V. S. STEFANO IN PANE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO U VIA DELL'OLMATELLO LG. DELLA T VIA D I CARRAIA LIBERAZIONE R V Discover the Winter ANNI BOCCA V I A P R A T E S E A I A V

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G TERZOLLE VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI I V. D .M IC H E L A C C I U VIA GUIDO BANTI L IA V. F. BARACCA IAZZUOLA N NI VIA CARLO DEL PRETE I P UCCI ME MUGNONE restaurant, which has N I IC VIA DI PERETOLA V. F. GEMINIANI Beata Vergine Maria Regina della Pace HOT DATES O R PIAZZA Universtà VIA DEI CAPP ENTINA VIA DELAL 12 VIA VALDINIEVOLE Di Firenze A O DALMAZIA VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO Ingegneria OGNESE PIAZZA VIALE GIOVAN BATTISTA MORGAGNI L V IA L E A L E S S A N D R O G U ID O N I I A F VIA DEI VESPUCCI VALDELSA V

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The Florence Experiment, Palazzo Strozzi BOCCAC one Michelin star V IA S A N D O M E N IC O TOSCANA VIA PISTOIESE . Palazzo di Giustizia di Firenze VIA DELLA TORRE DEGLI AGLI VIA DEL TERZOLLE NNI V VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI V. M . M E R C AT I A DI MONTUGHI LA

VIA DEI CAPPUCCINI VIA GIOV VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO IA IAZZUO TERZOLLE V VIALE DELLA V. M A L P I G H I ELAL P VIA PISTOIESE PIAZZA Convento Frati Cappuccini D V. M AT T I O L I V. C U O C O VIA IA P.TTA DEL TERZOLLE V. C SA VIA ORAZIO VECCHI Parco San Donato G. G. ARCHI VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI 62 ENTERTAINMENT I PIAZZA DELL'ELBA N Chiesa Santa Maria Ausiliatrice Chiesa AS O D A P IS T O IA San Francesco e Santa Chiara V I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I V

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VIA PISTOIESE VIA SANDRO PERTINI CF. VIA CARLO PISACANE Giardino V. B A R B E R I N O Del Museo V. F. T. BARACCHINI Stibbert V. LUISA SANFELI ARA Baloon GUGLIELMOin MTuscany tour, A VIALE CORSICA VI CCIOLO V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

V IA F R A N C E S C O B A R A C C A L O B A I V Parco Pettini Burresi TOSCANA G. GIORGINI CE V. GUINIZZE VIA RIGUCCIO GALLUZZI

VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA the ideal perspective VIA PALA LL I VIA FAENTINA I NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI C O VIA DELL'ARCOVATA VIA AND N G V. RASTRELLI V FLORENCE CITY GUIDE PIAZZA UC S. Antonio AI V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V . COLA PIETRO E ® REA CO da Padova al Romito F. Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI V S ANN S

LEOPOLDO FORBICI TI E RSALI D'ORO TI to surprise. V withT O R OI E M A N U E L EI E V BB L Centro Commerciale San Donato VIA PIERO CIRONI ERT V V I A . G . F A B B R O N I VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI F. . G A I N N I V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio

VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DEL Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO RIESTE dell'Ascensione LARGO TANUCCI splendid photos CA Villa Fabbricotti G. BARTOLINI V I A T LO ContentsVIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R NI FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM V I A G . B A R B E R A JUNE 2018 TERZOLLE A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA ACCIO INI V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA ACCIO T PIAZZA MUGNONE A VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA AR OCC B R O N OPP GIAMPIETRO E V I A B E Z Z E C ROT M DLEI A I V I I B VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI Parrocchia Immacolata T OFF V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi NN V V I A L IES V. F. C I A VIA GAETANO M VA VIA SAN DONATO V D I V I I A T V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLEIO QUERCE I O S T Parco Liceo A T R N Leonardo da Vinci A C . R E O C O Welcome to V. O. DA PORDENONE VI N IA G VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I M PA G N I Chiesa della B.V. M 66 G SIGHTSEEINGLARGO Madre della ILANE

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E NA architecture S An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID NAINI PIAZZA I V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I & MUSEUMS E VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI and beauties O BO LUDOVICO ANTONIO V VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I ENT A A N D O M E N I MURATORI A S Preziosissimo of Renaissance LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Enjoy the city, starting from its Sangue Suggestions for trips outside the city I A MUGNONE U G I A V I Giardino ALCANTI V VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI OLOGN V I A F Stazione Firenze Statuto V PIAZZA V. dell'Orticoltura V VIA FRANCESC G. B Villa il VIALE FRANCESCO REDI INI PIAZZUOL TOMMASO I PIAZZA A Ventaglio A One of the most I VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C AL ALVA EDISON V. VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA V DELLE CURE I. XI EL O I L NIEVO UIDO CA FE Chiesa della Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT VIA D

RFA NA CV I main landmark attractions. that are able to satisfy any need. C B VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI PIAZZA VIA VNES AIRN EI V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I I N I GIACOMO V I L D ONACCI OR AI A I VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE PIAZZA I A beautifulA of Florence’s N PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O AV I D ELO V E VITTORIA O FIB VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O ITALIAN-STYLE I A V I X A. GARBASSO G IROLI V IA M A R A G L IA N O E SC V VIA DELLE FORBICI EUCCI U GIFT GUIDE . ARD DA ER LO VX I TO VIA M L G VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI . PIAZZA Our pick of the best VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI S TAT VIA DELLA CERNAIA A U SCA I VIA FILIPPO PACINI VIA ANTONIO COCC seasonal trends COR I SE V. A V GALILEO S basilicas,M A San Miniato T V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O MUGNONE N FERRARIS VIA DEI CA O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica ELLI A LEON G GO I I R V Parrocchiale U TO Istituto Comprensivo Statale I V I A D E G ONNA TOS I V H ALL THE ALLURE Sacro Cuore V. G. B. AMICI I I M S PI VIALE ALESSANDROM VOLTA VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI HI LARGO OF TUSCANY T OI V V. MAD RA PONTE ROSSO C A I Several out-of-town V. A. NICOLODI D V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E L U PIETRO Golf Club Parco Di Firenze VIA XX SETTEMBRE OTTI HOT DATES V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E LUXURY TOP BRANDS destinations for a fun, 12 34 E V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A NGHI CAPEI al Monte ELLI C . relaxing experience Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena A G OI R D A N O CIN VIA A. BERTANI L AL N D VIA G. BAND

VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON PA V. G. I PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO B O T T I C V. A. IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T This month’s round-up of fashion The best fashionRE designersDI SAN in EOL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O A MARTIRI N P IACOPINO V. S . PIAZZA E SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS S I A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIA V AI M GIOVANNI RDO G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA A V IA C A S S IA I LE ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI I VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO VIA D. MA Giardino FILIPP V AI A S FARDELLA V AI L E D E MI LI L E ELL della Fortezza VI TELFIDA 74 ESSENTIALSX A D A C C I O OLI DI TORREARSA P I shows, art exhibitions, and sport. Florence for your high-end V. G. MARCONI IR URNO O U NT V I A D E L T S C E R ELLIN A ELLATE VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO T D’AO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA C A P P PRAT IA NINO BIXIO VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE COVER ROZZI V VIA CAS PIAZZA SSANDRIA LUPI BO STA E N ChiesaGALLO di Sant'Agata V. VOLV Chiesa San Jacopino L A AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CA I A 'A L S R O E VIALE SPARTACO DLAVAGNINI A PIAZZA VASARI VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO N Information and tipsA U N I VI M V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O F I SAVONAROLA Panoramic view of the shopping. AC A O VIA G. PAISIELLO I IL N VIA O VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI RI VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V POG Giardino F CATERIN V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O O P VIA PIETRO MARONC . A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O TO V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V VIA G. DOLFI GI A MARMORA N Campo Di R I S A A Marte I E city of Florence, with a V I A C A V O V IA G U S T A V O Chiesa PIAZZA V VIAPIO FEDI PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E G VIA DE U Nostra Signora SO L D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO to experience the best V AI D E DI E I D del Sacro Cuore Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI L Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI O LE HER HIGHNESS VIA ROSOLI E P P E S I R 16 Franchi

MONTIGNANO focus on the cathedral RUO M O F M Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. V IA V E N E Z IA D E N A A IUS O VIA BARTOLOMMEI TE Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFON V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE L L A A VIA DEI SETTE SANTI that VIAFlorence DELLA FORTEZZA has T V I A G EGLI ARTISTI of Santa Maria del Fiore. C BAMBINE E BAMBINI PIAZZA R Cimitero I O DI BESLAN V AI M INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIE O della Misericordia FLORENTIAPasserella dell'Isolotto FASHION OUTLETS B B AI VIA D 48 S. Giovanni VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N R dei Cavalieri ANTONIO MICHELI ©VIA MASSAShutterstock A ATELLO Giardino S A C C OI VL. T. MAMIANI R V AI M V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIALE BELFIORE to offer VIA SAN GALLO V IA X X V IA P R IL E I VIA CITTADELLA DEL P VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI N V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I I V O DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE Giardino IA A VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI V LG. PORTA A To best enjoy its regal beauty, Several of the best shopping di Valfonda N N E L L I P LEOPOLDA ONTANELLI Teatro dell’Opera A D N O F L A V EI R C A P IV V I A G U E L F A M Giardino V. dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO A Z N E A F A VIA GIAMBOLOGNA A Convento T IA G.LA PIRA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco V ANTI VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RA F Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPP P O O V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA N I PORTA AL LO D O VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO L'ARCOLAIO Florence must be seen from high destinations not far from Florence. L V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I A LARGO L G E V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE D San Barnaba V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI PIAZZA IA SANTA SAN MARCO Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE V SAN VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA IA VIA SAN BARTOLOMEO V V AI M Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I V AL GIGNORO EM U I F A I V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa A up. Here is a map of the terracesA R N O S A C C OI San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFRE VI di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI A DEI FALC I Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Chiesa NOR degli Inglesi V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Casa di Riposo PIAZZA episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia BORGO PINTI UCCI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO DE’GI V IA V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico V CENTRALE SANTISSIMA NTI V.Z VIA R AI L E M STAY IN TOUCH V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO D E ANNUNZIA ZINI VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZI Stazione Ferroviaria U and unmissable panoramic views. V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze G L AZ Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA MICHELIN-STARRED MAP PAGESVIA DELL 78-79I Nelson Mandela Forum V IA T O R C IC O D A 56 I Santa Maria Novella V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A A L F A N I P E M LI » OR A L T A VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI IN V AI S O L F E R NI O SO Spedale degli Innocenti TI VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO ’ARI ERVI degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A ’ S V I ENT V I A C A V O C VIA MILAZZO DELLA STAZIONE I I VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI L A N O C E DE E R V AI O D EA florence.whereitalia.com . D A COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB DEI NELLI VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI A VIALE GIUSEP V. DELLA RONDINELLA V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VI A V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico M A S V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E erina da Palazzo VI INI RESTAURANTS at VI .C iena Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A S a S Medici Riccardi O d P. DI MADONNA Museo I V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . C B O R G O P I N L V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I V C PIAZZA VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci A C VIALE MANFREDO FA L’ISOLOTTO V. R Basilica A V AI D E G L IA VIALE BERNARDO SEGNI V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO Download all issues DEGL L VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI C A

VIA DEL R. FIORENTI R. DEL VIA BE di San Lorenzo SAN E C VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ T VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI Basilica di LORENZO S C O L O N N A VIA GIORDANI I L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I VIA D A O VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO

Santa Maria Novella I G C PIAZZA V I A D E ’ V A N N I V I A P I G N O N E Ponte della Vittoria A O R I E L I M VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI VEL E’ VIALE EDMONDO DE AMICIS S . L U C I A Teatro D Università V I A IN NANDO MART VIA DEL SANSOVINO Santa C L F MASSIMO D'AZEGLIO VIA LIBERO ANDREOTTI VIA PANZANI ONTI degli Studi di Firenze AGR DPO ' I PIAZZA V. O Pucci Lucia LI VI A N I VIA GIOVANNI BOV Eight starred restaurants for Z TONIO SCIALOJA O DISCOVERING VIA DELL'AL VIA PALESTRO VIA MARSALA 22 EN sul Prato P. BATONI R AN VI OLI A DELL’A RTELLI Chiesa E MAZZ www.magzter.com A A Polimoda I M Santa Maria

V IA D E L L A S VIA DEL GIGLIO ’ O MENOTTI Parrocchiale T VIA AN LO LL CAS VI PIAZZA N Maddalena dei Pazzi V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI O ZA Teatro RI IR Sacro Cuore VIA FERDI STA VICO VIA MONTEBELLO RO SEPP PIAZZA CO V I A G I O V A N N I A N T O N I O S O G L I A N I N ETTI RGO S VIA DENiccolini TI E’ VIA TADDEO GADDI B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I SANTA O GIU A C VIA DEL MEZZETTA V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O D B VIA DEI SER RINI AT A I

NO E VI MARIA V C A L A VIA DEI BANCHI AL I Digital magazine store VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A O FA Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova O a triumph of flavours, aromas VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI PONTE VECCHIO NOVELLA L VI VIA BRONZINO V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro A I V Santa Maria V. G . B . N I C C O L I N I V AI M della CAR VIAL. MAITANI INELLI Battistero D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera I V. DELLA CASA N Pergola G VIA GIAMB VIA VIA I di San Giovanni A L RO Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di I V. DEL TREBBIO I N

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MORE AT PAGE 66 Top in town MAP PAGES 78-79 SAN MINIATO AL MONTE 1 4 2 11 The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10

MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by 6 3 8 13 Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11

SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12 SHUTTERSTOCK SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, PHOTOS © the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, DUOMO AND CUPOLA CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the of statues of Renaissance origin, representing fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used The symbol of wealth and power, the building Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13 in Florence was the largest Christian church Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main one of the most important sculptural cycles in the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. was inhabited by the Medici, then by the in the world. Today the religious building, the components of the complex of Santa Maria the world. The most famous is certainly At the end of the 16th century, however, Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, SANTO SPIRITO official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas when it became the “noble” zone of the city, by the Savoy family. The original architecture A point of reference of the Augustinian order. Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, the original is conserved in the Galleria the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the The church has given its name to the entire dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by dell’Accademia). 4 and they have been there uninterruptedly surname of its first owner. The building is located surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, to this day. 6 Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI Gardens are one of the most important examples the church was the last great project by Filippo is a symbol known all over the world. 1 of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3 One of the most famous museums in the world CORRIDOIO VASARIANO of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8 Brunelleschi. 14 on account of its extraordinary collections of The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway BATTISTERO PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA ancient sculptures and paintings (from the connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO SAN LORENZO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is AND PALAZZO VECCHIO Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to This is the most famous and appreciated One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, characterised by an octagonal plan, lined This is the central square of Florence, the seat occupies the first and second floors of the large which is at the beginning of the second panoramic point in Florence, with its views according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, with a dome of eight segments, covered by of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing building erected between 1560 and 1580 corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches seen all over the world in million of postcards the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5 along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, and reproductions. The design of the square Its current appearance, however, is the result of with white marble from Carrara and green Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital the last major reconstruction work that took marble from Prato, characteristics of the Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della PONTE VECCHIO 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle The official date of foundation of the current Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Medici and under the direction of the great period. 2 Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire 1000 paintings. 7 Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9 architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES JUNE JUNE Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

INSTALLATION

19 26 APRIL AUGUST

DOWN THE SLIDE AT THE MUSEUM! How powerful can the empathy be between plants and human beings? German artist Carsten Höller and Italian scientist Stefano Mancuso, founder of the study of plant neurobiology, have decided to attempt to answer this question by creating an extraordinary and unbelievable experience for the general public inside the spaces of Palazzo Strozzi. Two monumental slides inside the courtyard allow visitors to slide down 20 metres taking a bean seedling with them, which will be compared with others that have not experienced the exciting adventure. In two film screening rooms, on the other hand, the fear or enjoyment of visitors when watching horror or comedy films produce different volatile chemical compounds that, through two suction ducts, are transported onto the façade, where they will be able (who knows?) to influence the growth of the climbing wisteria plants. The Florence Experiment proposes to reflect on the communicative and emotional capacities of all living beings. Not really convinced? You just need to grab hold of your bean plant and jump down the slide to prove it.

The Florence Experiment Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza Strozzi Open daily 10am-8pm; Thursdays 10am-11pm www.palazzostrozzi.org #FlorenceExperiment

12 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 13 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES JUNE SPORT OPEN-AIR EXHIBITION FASHION

TWO WORLD WHEELS JUNE WHEN ▼ The Italian Grand Prix at the Mugello HOLLYWOOD Circuit is one of the most eagerly anticipated WAS A LITTLE appointments on the MotoGP calendar. 12, 2 0, 2 9 24 10 North-east of Florence, in the splendid VILLAGE MAY MARCH ▼ The years spent by 1 3 Tuscan countryside, the Mugello is among 2018 2019 Salvatore Ferragamo the most spectacular, safe and diverse tracks JUNE JUNE in California at the dawn of the movie industry, on the entire world panorama. With its in the 1920s, are the source of inspiration for the combination of slow bends and fast curves, slopes and descents, which exhibition project of the Museum devoted to him: make the competition compelling and exciting, it is a circuit that is from his collaboration with the most famous directors much loved by all and, at the same time, one of the most demanding of the time to the opening of the Hollywood Boot for both riders and technicians. Some of the most extraordinary Shop (reconstructed here), frequented by stars such motorcycle races have taken place around its 5,245 metres, with as Mary Pickford, Pola Negri, Charlie Chaplin, Joan protagonists such as Micheal Doohan, who dominated the sport in the Crawford, Lillian Gish and Rudolph Valentino. Starting 1990s, and then the Italian riders Rossi, Biaggi, Capirossi. The track in from here, there is an investigation of the migratory Scarperia is a masterpiece, immersed in the gentle hills that surround phenomenon and the influence exerted on the world of it: a varied territory, to a large extent uncontaminated, rich in history, DANIEL PRYCE JONATHAN art, craftsmanship and entertainment by the Hollywood culture and art, making it well worth a visit. MUSICAL DELIGHTS WITH THE BELVEDERE myth and by Italian culture in California. Curiosity: MotoGP - Oakley Italian Grand Prix 2018 you will find forty of the three hundred iconic, famous PHOTO © ▲ Its splendid panoramic location overlooking Florence earned it the Autodromo Internazionale del Mugello. Via Senni 15, Scarperia (FI) portraits on ceramic plates that Piero Fornasetti made of name “Villa Belvedere”: Villa Bardini is reminiscent of the “Casini di www.motogp.com - www.mugellocircuit.it the actress Lina Cavalieri on display in the exhibition. delizia” [Country Houses of Delight] that were widespread in Florence MALE ELEGANCE CAN BE between the late 16th and the first half of the 17th century, created SHUTTERSTOCK Italy in Hollywood FOUND AT THE FORTEZZA for rest and relaxation. In June this unique location hosts no less than Museo Salvatore Ferragamo. ONCE AGAIN

three appointments of the “Maggio Fiorentino” cultural festival: PHOTO © Palazzo Spini Feroni. Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r 12 15 ▲ An unmissable event in the world of men’s three concerts with a varied and exciting programme, to be enjoyed Open daily 10am-7.30pm. JUNE JUNE fashion, twice a year Pitti Uomo presents in the surroundings of the marvellous gardens: no less than four www.ferragamo.com/museo men’s clothing and accessories collections hectares of woodland, Italian-style gardens and orchards. by the most famous and upcoming international brands. The location is Festival del Maggio fiorentino – Concerts in the museums of course unique: the event – which takes its name from its first venue, 12 June, 6pm: Open-Air Concert, Ensemble for wind instruments by the the White Room in Palazzo Pitti – takes place in the Fortezza da Basso, a Conservatorio di Musica “Luigi Cherubini” of Florence masterpiece of Renaissance architecture just a stone’s throw from Santa 20 June, 6pm: Finale d’atto, Singers and pianists from the Accademia Maria Novella, in the historic centre of the city. 80,000 square metres that del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino see next year’s men’s fashion trends parading for four days in June. There 29 June, 6pm: Un viaggio tra gli stili, Namaste clarinet quintet are three info items in this edition: the set designs of the structures inside Villa Bardin. Costa San Giorgio, 2 the Fortezza da Basso will be P.O.P. Pitti Optical Power, a kaleidoscope of www.villabardini.it brightly coloured patterns created by lifestyler Sergio Colantuoni; Special Guest will be Roberto Cavalli, who is debuting with the first men’s ROCK collection designed by Paul Surridge; Guest Designer will be Craig Green from England, who will present his A CONCERT S/S 2019 collection with an exclusive FOUR DAYS LONG parade. Although the fair is reserved ► Four days of music, and what music! for operators, on the four days 14 17 The programme of the Firenze Rocks when it takes place collateral events, JUNE JUNE festival leaves no room for subtlety: parades and installations are also headlining are top-level rock bands, organized that are free to visit and from the Foo Fighters – who will open the festival – to Guns N’ Roses, involve the whole city. from Iron Maiden to Ozzy Osbourne, Avenged Sevenfold and Judas Priest, who will perform in a unique closing concert. Pitti Uomo 94 Like last year, the event will be hosted at the Visarno Arena, Fortezza da Basso. Viale Filippo Strozzi, 1. a racecourse surrounded by the greenery of the Parco delle Cascine, Open daily 9am-6pm; last day 9am-4pm. a perfect summer theatre for large-scale concerts. www.pittimmagine.com

Firenze Rocks Start of headliners concerts: 9pm. Visarno Arena, Parco delle Cascine www.firenzerocks.it Foo Fighters Craig Green

14 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | FOCUS

n Piazza del Duomo, particularly in summer and on fine days, it is not uncommon to notice long queues: Her Highness Florentia in fact there are hundreds of people every day who wish to climb up into Brunelleschi’s Dome, boldly To best enjoy its regal beauty and the ascending its 463 steps, or to reach the top of Giotto’s nobility of its history, Florence must be seen bell tower, around 84 metres high. The same applies toI the Tower of Palazzo Vecchio, with its walkway called from high up. Here is a map of the terraces Camminamento di Ronda attributed to Arnolfo di Cambio. and unmissable panoramic views. If what attracts you is the historical and artistic dimension, then such locations are obviously unrivalled. BY ELENA BINDA But if also and above all you intend to have special views of the city of Florence, then you should know that there Elena Binda are many other possibilities: Florence abounds in more or Lifestyle Editor less well known panoramic points, gardens with views and ® Where Italia splendid premises with terraces. Not to mention the bridges, which are perfect for enjoying sunset over the Arno. So here is a map with the addresses not to be missed.

THE BALCONY SCENE There are many ways to fall in love with Florence. One, of course, is to capture it in just one gaze from above, allowing yourself to be intoxicated by its admirable architecture developing harmoniously around the Arno, enveloped by the hills behind. The most famous place to enjoy this view is piazzale Michelangelo, an open space created at the end of the 19th century as part of the so-called “improvement”, the redevelopment of the left bank of the Arno that occurred while Florence was capital of Italy. It is an obligatory stopping place, perhaps when you are on your way to the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious building that merits a visit in itself (see Sightseeing > Monuments & Attractions), but also for the views it offers of Florence. The most spectacular access is via the monumental steps. Less universally known, but much loved by the Florentines, are the gardens placed in the same quadrant of the city, which offer a perspective similar to Piazzale Michelangelo, but which also possess the romantic setting of an ancient garden: that is the case of the Giardino dell’Iris, in Viale Michelangiolo, the Giardino delle Rose, going towards San Miniato, and, a little further on, also the Giardino Bardini (see below). A little outside the centre, but within reach if you have been prompted to visit that rather particular place that is the Stibbert Museum (see Sightseeing > Museums), are the Orti del Parnaso, another charming park where you can admire Florence from high up. On the opposite part of the river, on the other hand, are the immense Boboli Gardens, with their various levels, offering different panoramic points: one of the best loved is Prato dell’Uccellare, whereas a more institutional one is the Forte Belvedere (where there is also a place for aperitifs). Finally, don’t forget that one of the most charming places from which to view the city is the river itself: in this case it is not the aerial views that are exciting, but the breathtaking sights of the

SHUTTERSTOCK city, especially at sunset. But avoid Ponte Vecchio, where it is truly impossible to find a place in the front row, and focus on Ponte alla Carraia or Santa Trinita: outstanding. PHOTO ©

16 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 17 WHERE NOW | FOCUS SHUTTERSTOCK

Prato dell’Uccellare, Giardino di Boboli PHOTO © Se Sto on Arno, The Westin Excelsior Divina Terrazza, Grand Hotel Cavour

CULTURAL PANORAMA terrace, once used by nannies to walk with staircase on the sixth floor of the hotel, is literally If your approach is more cultural than young children and today transformed into immersed in the beauties of Florence: a stone’s landscape-oriented, bear in mind that you a marvellous cafeteria with views, the Caffè throw from the cathedral, it has a roof bar can find a nice panoramic stop while visiting del Verone (only until 7pm). To enjoy the where you seem to be able to touch history museums. As the whole world knows, the sunset from Oltrarno, on the other hand, the with your hand. www.albergocavour.it. Uffizi Gallery (www.uffizi.org) holds the largest ancient Torre di San Niccolò is visitable (but In the zone of Santa Maria Novella, the Grand existing collection of artworks by Raphael and not always, so inquire with your concierge). Hotel Baglioni has a panoramic restaurant, Botticelli, in addition to key works by Giotto, Finally, Villa Bardini, formerly Villa Manadora, also Terrazza Brunelleschi, and two American bars Titian, Veronese, Tintoretto, Pontormo, Bronzino, offers a considerable panoramic view among with views of the Dome. www.hotelbaglioni.it. Caravaggio, Dürer, Rubens and many others. its numerous attractions: an exhibition centre From May to September, the Grand Hotel But, after enjoying all the beauty on display with a predilection for contemporary art, it also Minerva (again in Santa Maria Novella) reveals inside, why not treat yourself to a moment includes the scenographic Giardino Bardini the ace up its sleeve that is its Bar Three-Sixty of contemplation of what lies around you? (today visitable separately with the same ticket to make its panoramic terrace with The bar with restaurant service at the end used for the Boboli Gardens) and the splendid swimming pool even more attractive. of the second floor, in fact, has a fantastic Terrazza Bardini, which is also a restaurant www.grandhotelminerva.com. terrace overlooking the Loggia dei Lanzi. (www.moba.fi.it). Sipping a drink in the swimming pool while The view of the city and Palazzo Vecchio is you admire the Cathedral is an experience that incomparable. Another unexpected panoramic AN APERITIF ON THE TERRACE is also guaranteed at the Empireo, another Caffè del Verone, Istituto degli Innocenti view will present itself to you if you decide The hours heading towards evening are terrace that has entered the Olympus of the to visit the unusual architectural complex of perhaps the best for contemplating the exciting panoramic places of Florence since it opened in also not be forgotten that some of the most the Magnificent. www.ortodeimedici.it. Final Orsanmichele, halfway between piazza del panorama of this city. For that reason, treating 2014: it is situated on the roof of the Hotel Plaza luxurious hotels in Florence allow their guests hint: if you’re looking for a different kind of Duomo and Palazzo Vecchio. It is an evocative yourself to an aperitif in one of the splendid Lucchesi, between the Lungarno and Santa the possibility of treating themselves to venue, youthful and more informal, maybe to place, a church and relative museum obtained premises with terrace is a very good choice, Croce. It is open to visitors from 7.30pm, if you breakfast, a cocktail or dinner on terraces with stop for lunch, a good idea is the Caffetteria Galleria degli Uffizi Terrace from a 15th-century granary, and its windows enabling you to relax, enjoy some Tuscan book in advance. www.hotelplazalucchesi.it. amazing views, in some cases private ones: this delle Oblate, often frequented by university offer fine views. The Innocenti Museum delicacies and capture the open-air museum in A heated swimming pool (12 x 3 metres) for the is the case of the Lungarno Collection (www. students. It is not a terrace, but an indoor The terrace was only developed as an (www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it), in Piazza della which you have immersed yourself during the Sky Breeze Roof and Pool, which dominates lungarnocollection.com), Hotel Brunelleschi venue (central) with an almost incredible view. architectural element in Italy in the Santissima Annunziata, is a piece of national day in a single gaze. the city from the sixth floor of the Glance Hotel (www.hotelbrunelleschi.it) Antica Torre www.caffetteriadelleoblate.it. Renaissance. In the Classical Age, in fact, history: created in the Renaissance, it is the Se.Sto on Arno, the restaurant and bar of The (near the Market of San Lorenzo) and offers Tornabuoni (www.tornabuoni1.com) and noble dwellings had just one storey, oldest public institution in Italy. It was used to Westin Excelsior in piazza Ognissanti, is open for drink and dishes. It is open (also to visitors) some others. The Four Seasons, for example, BEAUTY HAS NO PRICE and in the Middle Ages they were little house and educate orphaned or abandoned aperitifs every evening from 7 to 9pm: its two from May to October from 10am to 8pm. www. with its Terrazza Giusti, offers one of the Finally, remember that while you are shopping more than balconies, first made of wood, children: the building, by Brunelleschi, hosts large terraces allow 360-degree views. And glancehotelflorence.com. The Rooftop Bar of most sought-after locations for banquets and you are also in Florence, not in any old city. then stone. But it was in the Renaissance works by Botticelli and Ghirlandaio. To this for those who want to continue, dinner by the the Hotel Continental, just a few steps from conferences in the open air. Special mention, A stop to breathe in the beauty, the cultural that spatial and perspective concepts day it has not betrayed its original vocation: it stained-glass windows offers the best of Ponte Vecchio, is simply called La Terrazza. The finally, for the relaxing terrace of the Hotel Orto opulence, the artistic heritage of this capital of changed and terraces began to spread, is a Unicef research centre and offers help to Mediterranean cuisine. www.westinflorence.com. bar is open at the top of the medieval Torre de’ Medici: in this case the key element is not the Renaissance must undoubtedly be made. from the “urban” terraces such as Piazzale mothers in difficulty. But there is also another The Divina Terrazza of the Grand Hotel dei Consorti, in a contemporary environment the panorama, but the history of the location. It Rinascente, the most historic department store Michelangelo to those in the gardens of reason to visit it, and that is the restored Cavour, which can only be reached via a surrounded by magnificence. Then, it must is here, in fact, that Michelangelo met Lorenzo in Italy, is also present in Florence, in piazza palaces such as the Boboli Gardens.

18 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 19 Mario Berta Battiloro WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Repubblica (www.rinascente.it): in addition to the usual top-level commercial offer (also with Tax Refund service), it has a very pleasant Bring Italy terrace with cafeteria. Then it is impossible not to mention Luisa Via Roma; created in the 1930s as a pioneering concept store, it boomed in the 1980s, launching in Italy stylists of the calibre of Kenzo, and today it is a world power in e-commerce (www.luisaviaroma.com). But home with you what online purchasing cannot offer is the magic of a shopping experience with Florence Enjoy the excellence of Italian lifestyle. around you, maybe allowing yourself a relaxing Discover the new dynamic format of Italia Luxury by Where®. break on the terrace of the boutique, designed Hotel Orto de’ Medici Terrace by Patricia Urquiola. And keep in touch with the great beauty. Aperitifs “on the top floors” of luxury hotels meet with great success with both Florentines Subscribe for free the new PDP format on and tourists. Some play the card of the luxury.whereitalia.com poolside drink, while others focus on live music and celebrity cocktails to offer even more unforgettable moments to their lucky customers. But when they talk of happy hour you can forget the large buffets, because the aperitif is elegant on the rooftops of Florence and you will be served a few snacks at most along with your drink. Also, particularly if you go at the weekend, remember to book at least a few days beforehand.

Luisa Via Roma Terrace

Florence seen from the hills: welcome to Fiesole SHUTTERSTOCK

Villa San Michele PHOTO ©

Thanks to its position, standing on a double hill overlooking the Arno is a former monastery with a magnificent view. There is the Valley, the whole town of Fiesole is a kind of “terrace looking over possibility of lunch and a poolside aperitif there. Florence”. Around six kilometres away, the town has in fact always been Magnificent views are also available from Villa Fiesole considered a privileged and exclusive residential location, the site (www.fhhotelgroup.it), the ancient residence and poetic lemon of marvellous villas, each competing for architectural plaudits. grove where today it is possible to enjoy cycle tours or cooking Villa San Michele, today a luxury hotel (www.belmond.com), classes with well-known chefs.

20 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING Discovering Ponte Vecchio It is one of the undisputed symbols of Florence and, as such, is one of the most photographed sites in the world. Here are some details so you can get to know it better. BY AMAL ANGELOTTI

irst of all, it must be said that Ponte Vecchio (literally “Old Bridge”) is indeed “old”. The first to identify a ford in the Arno were the

Etruscans. The Roman founders SHUTTERSTOCK of the village of “Florentia” built a wood and stone bridge there, the forerunner

F PHOTOS © of the current one, which dates back to around 1345. Since then, with all the various restorations in 1565 to connect the administrative buildings the city: considering it a source of great pride, and modifications, this passage across the Arno to his private residence, without exposing the Mussolini invited Hitler there in 1938, opening has remained in its place, actively participating in sovereign to any danger. up new larger, more panoramic windows for his the history of the city. benefit. One rather romanticised version claims A UNIQUE HISTORY that Hitler himself, cherishing the memory of ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURE The change of identity of the zone during such beauty, would decide to save the bridge The bridge is characterised by a solution with the Renaissance is due precisely to the Vasari from the terrible bombing campaigns of 1944. lowered arches, never previously seen, which Corridor. The traditional shops of greengrocers, Unfortunately, the historical reconstruction makes it particularly stable and its profile butchers and fishmongers, who had a seems to prove that this merit cannot be unmistakable. From the very beginning, it was preference for the bridge on account of the ascribed to the German dictator. understood to be a natural continuation of the ease with which they could throw their waste road, and so it has shops and porticos along into the river, were evicted en bloc: it was LUXURY SHOPPING both sides facing towards the centre, each with preferred to offer the sovereign goldsmiths’ For more than four hundred years, Ponte a single shop window closed by strong wooden and jewellers’ shops, which were more Vecchio has therefore been inhabited by doors, and often with a picturesque backroom appropriate for his gaze (and his nose), and they artisans creating admirable gold and silver protruding over the river. have continued their presence there ever since objects. Still today, this remains the commercial Then, grafted onto the high part of the bridge is for the pleasure of tourists. Since then, Ponte vocation of the neighbourhood, which is VENEZIA the Vasari Corridor, the strategic passageway Vecchio has been an assiduous witness – and nevertheless not lacking in other luxury trades, that was built at the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici sometimes a protagonist – of the history of starting with artisan leather goods. Obviously, VERONA the accesses and areas surrounding the Bridge, between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno MILANO degli Archibusieri on one side, and between FIRENZE Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini on the other, are also swarming with points of interest and high-quality shops. Bear in mind, however, that sometimes you need only turn into an unknown alley to get away from the bustling crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll.

UNDER THE BRIDGE Finally, you should know that there is also life under the bridge: the historic Società Canottieri Firenze, as well as bringing together sporting rowers, is a point of reference for the SHOP.THEMERCHANTOFVENICE.COM activities that take place on the banks of the THEMERCHANTOFVENICE.COM river. Today, the Circle also offers a stupendous location for aperitifs, lunches and dinners.

22 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

► IL BISONTE This travel bag made of ►TIFFANY & CO. GIFT polycotton technical fabric ’Tiffany City HardWear’ link with leather details and bracelet is elegantly subversive: detachable shoulder belt it embodies the power and belongs to the ’Capraia’ line. edge of New York City and the GUIDE It is one of the accessories energy of its streets. Linear and symbolizing the brand that minimal, it is made of rose gold Take advantage of a stroll came about in the heart of and embellished by a detail that Florence almost 60 years ago is a pavé of dazzling diamonds. through Florence to treat from the passion and creativity www.tiffany.it yourself to an accessory, a of its founder Wanny Di Filippo. ▲OFFICINE PANERAI www.ilbisonte.com This underwater professional fragrance, a jewel or some watch guarantees a sporting look other alluring detail of style. with a strong character: ’Luminor Where® brings you a pick Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic’ of the best seasonal trends is the first Panerai Submersible with OFFICINA PROFUMO- a steel box with a 42mm diameter, DAMIANI ► and guarantees that you ◄ impermeable to a depth of 30 bar. The epitome of femininity, the FARMACEUTICA DI SANTA won’t leave empty-handed! All the elements on the quadrant new ’Spicchi di Luna’ collection MARIA NOVELLA are perfectly legible against the is highlighted by a sequence ’Acqua di S.M.Novella’ is the black background, while the second Giulia Minero of slightly curved gold bands brand’s oldest fragrance. It is the hand is Panerai blue. Lifestyle & News evoking the different phases perfume that Caterina de’ Medici www.panerai.com Editor of the moon. The ultimate commissioned from the ® Where Italia symbol of timeless elegance and Dominican monks in 1533, and sophistication. www.damiani.com she took it with her to France when she married Henri de Valois. It is a bouquet of fresh citrus notes with a base of Calabrian bergamot. The mould for the bottle is reminiscent of the glass bottles Officina has ◄ ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ ▼SALVATORE FERRAGAMO used over the last two centuries. Stylist Angela Caputi proposes This closed shoe in magnolia www.smnovella.com the elegant “Flamenco” line suede, with toe cap and double for this summer, with a clear straps across instep in black reference to the frills of the brushed calfskin, is part of skirts of Flamenco dancers. ’Ferragamo’s Creations’, the This choker is made of synthetic exclusive footwear line that resin and is available in the revisits historic models. This colours red, white and lime. style was worn by actress Mary www.angelacaputi.com Pickford, one of silent cinema’s MARZI FIRENZE pre-eminent actresses and ◄ Since the early 20th century PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO producers. Salvatore Ferragamo ▲ Marzi has created elegant SERAFINI made this model in a number women’s hats made of For the summer season this Italian of different versions during his Florentine straw, such as brand – founded by Alberta Hollywood period. this large sisal hat in the Ferretti in 1984 and today the www.ferragamo.com three colours fuchsia, red group’s greatest source of pride and orange. A touch of – proposes a mini rigid red bag, unmistakable style and the embellished by black buckles best hand crafting quality on the sides ending with refined entrusted to highly qualified tassels. A creativity that is wholly workmen make these Italian expressed through elegant accessories a must, particularly forms that know how to interpret for this season. Present in the a femininity that is romantic and world’s most beautiful shop modern at the same time. windows and available online. www.albertaferretti.com www.marzi.com

24 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 25 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

Siena

the Cemetery, the Palazzo dell’Opera of the Cathedral and the Sinopie Museum. Once you’ve completed your visit to this unbelievable square, if you have a little time left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing

SHUTTERSTOCK onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today Tuscany’s soft rolling hills houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of PHOTO © Not just Florence the most prestigious universities in the world. With a brief trip by coach from Florence (looking at the idyllic landscape of the Tuscan If Florence offers tourists an f you choose Florence as your base, 16th-century walls, today still practically fully countryside through the window) you reach the good news is that around an hour intact and walkable in their entirely. You can Siena, one of the most loved medieval unrivalled cultural and historical away by train, bus or car you will find cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a centres in Italy, which is also included on heritage, its surrounding area UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s no less so. Here are some countryside, natural thermal springs, benches. The picturesque historic centre has nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is medieval towns and abbeys and remained almost intact, including countless renowned for its unique shell shape, for its suggestions for trips outside the kilometresI of coastline for bathers. medieval churches, which have earned Lucca architectural integrity, and because twice a city that are able to satisfy any The only problem is in having to make a the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio choice, particularly if you have just a few Renaissance squares and buildings and di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental need. For more details ask your SHUTTERSTOCK days available. Roman amphitheatres. importance for the Sienese, which sees the concierge. By Chiara Zaccarelli The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also seventeen historic districts that comprise San Gimignano

CITIES OF ART be easily reached from Florence in about the city compete against each other. The PHOTO © If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the an hour by train. Loved by tourists from square is dominated by a series of buildings Nature at its wildest in the area of the Crete Senesi, the medieval right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the of inestimable historical and architectural towns with their towers standing out among the green hills th Chiara Zaccarelli from the Tuscan regional capital there are Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of value, including the 14 -century Palazzo and the crowds in Piazza del Campo on the occasion of the Travel Editor architectural wonders that will catapult you the Cathedral, which stands in a unique Pubblico and the attached Torre del traditional Palio di Siena (2 July and 16 August). Where® Italia into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. monumental context, declared a UNESCO Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, This is Tuscany too. About an hour by train from Florence is World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. Here, the Cappella di Piazza, a marble tabernacle Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating after the unmissable ascent of the Tower, you with splendid sculptures, the Loggia della historic centres, surrounded by ancient can visit the Cathedral itself, the Baptistery, Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena

26 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 27 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, with their succession of churches, palaces and shops where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied fruit and pepper. And a few kilometres from Siena, another town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its characteristic medieval architecture. It is the unmissable San Gimignano, reachable by coach from Siena and Florence and situated in the heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking round this small town, the 13th / 14th-century appearance of which is still practically unchanged, is almost like going back in time. San Gimignano is famous above SHUTTERSTOCK all for its medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at one time and today are just Greve in Chianti

fifteen, including some in ruins and without PHOTO © their tops but still visible as part of the urban summer day, sipping new wine and tasting medieval towns and culinary festivals (of fabric. Nevertheless,LUGANO the effect of arriving the speciality of the location, surrounded by which that of the white truffle, typical of the from the countryside and seeing the outline olive groves and cypress trees in the surreal zone, stands out in particular). of theMENDRISIO town emerge still leaves you breathless. peacefulness of the Chianti hills? Let’s now leaveBRESCIA this idyllic setting and move THERMAL SPRINGS NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES BERGAMOtowards a wilder, more barren territory, that Tuscany is the region that boasts the largest Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle of the Crete Senesi. Located in the area number of spa structures in Italy, thanks to valleys and luxuriantNOVARA vineyards. Climbing south-east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the presence of numerous water deposits them is easy, both on foot (if you are keen the result of the continuous erosion of the famous since antiquity for the treatment of TRIESTE on trekking then it will just be a stroll forMILANO sea sediments that covered the zone millions numerous pathologies. From Florence you you) and on the numerous buses departing of years ago. These bare, softly undulating can easily reach numerous natural springs from the city centre. Over the years the hills, with their characteristic grey-blue and although many have now become part hill of Fiesole has been the source of colour and almost lunar appearance, are of spa establishments, others are still free, so inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, dotted with cypresses and farmhouses and you can dip in their warm waters and benefit noble families,ALESSANDRIA writers and entrepreneurs. still encapsulate the essence of the most from their therapeutic properties at zero From this privileged observatory, dotted authentic Tuscany; they are far removed cost, or at very affordable prices. Whether TORINO with villas, museums, archaeological from the tourist routes, rich in tracesFERRARA and you just want to relax or treat yourself to a excavations, churches and convents, you remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque beauty treatment, or you have some ailment can enjoy beautiful views of Florence and PIACENZA the Florentine countryside. If you love MAR panoramas, another unmissable spot is the small town of Settignano, thisGENOVA too ADRIATICO easy to reach from the city centre; in the BOLOGNA past it has been chosen as a residence by FORTE painter Telemaco Signorini, poet Gabriele d’Annunzio and writer Mark Twain, all DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI fascinated by itsMAR gentle hills LIGURE and calm LUCCA MOUNTAIN RIDGE atmosphere. The very famous Chianti zone, renowned PISA for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIAcypresses, olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence. If you are lucky SAN GIMIGNANO enough to be there between September and November you can witness two key events for the economy and culture of the LIVORNO ANCONA territory: the harvesting of grapes and olives. SIENA Can you think of anything more romantic than enjoying a picnic on a warm late 28 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 PERUGIA www.wheretraveler.com 29

PESCARA CORSICA

ROMA

MAR TIRRENO

NAPOLI

SARDEGNA WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN SHUTTERSTOCK

Saturnia Pier footpath promenade, beach and Apuane mountains in Forte dei Marmi Versilia PHOTOS © to be treated, you are spoiled for choice. In of 43°C, are rich in salts and are traditionally dotted along the Tuscan coastline. Although the heart of Maremma, in the Province of used to cure the various pathologies of the the Medici city is deep inland, there are in fact Grosseto, is the park of the Saturnia Thermal respiratory tracts. These springs too can various beaches that can be easily reached Baths, a fully fledged resort with open- be enjoyed both free of charge and at the both by car and by train. The closest, the air thermal pools, hydromassage, vascular establishments with their attached hotel preferred destination of chic Florentines, is circuits, hotels and restaurants, one of the structures. On the outskirts of Montecatini Forte dei Marmi, located in north-western largest oases of relaxation in the whole of Terme, on the other hand, is the spectacular Tuscany, with its long well-equipped beaches, Tuscany. Or maybe you prefer a wilder, less Grotta Giusti, a thousand-year-old natural dotted with venues frequented by VIPs, expensive alternative? The nearby Cascate cave that winds its way amid stalactites and fashion boutiques and exclusive nightspots. del Gorello form a waterfall that flows stalagmites to reach a stretch of crystal- Further south, in the province of Livorno, you around an ancient mill giving rise to a series clear water. Its waters have a temperature of breathe an entirely different atmosphere. of natural pools dug into the rock. The water between 27°C and 34°C and mud therapy Vada is perfect for nature lovers with its has a temperature of 37.5°C and thanks to the and balneotherapy are practised there in free beaches; here the water is shallow and presence of thermal plankton has beneficial baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the transparent and the sand pale and fine. effects on the skin and the digestive, metabolism of the blood vessels. Castiglioncello, on the other hand, is known circulatory and motor systems. Entry to the as “the pearl of the Tyrrhenian” on account of falls is free of charge, and although they have THE BEACHES its breathtaking landscapes, characterised by no facilities they are open 24 hours a day, Your bathing costume and beach towel sheer cliffs, coves and pinewoods. Very easy every day, even in winter. Let’s move to the are probably not the first things you think to reach by train directly from Florence, the province of Siena now, to immerse ourselves of putting in your suitcase if you are about beach at Quercianella, again in the province in the sulphur waters of the Thermal Baths to set off for Florence, but if you visit in the of Livorno, is excellent for lovers of the of Petriolo. Already known in the Roman summer you might feel the desire to seek a Mediterranean maquis and perfect for diving era, these waters gush out at a temperature little refreshment at one of the many beaches and snorkelling enthusiasts.

Pedalling through Tuscany

Would you like to discover the area around Florence from a different perspective, more on a human scale and in contact with nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. Pedalling along the romantic olive groves, vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, taking in the perfumes and colours of the Tuscan countryside in ways that would otherwise be impossible. After the effort of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest and refreshment with visits to wine cellars and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local specialities. If you are not particularly sporty but would still SWIM & WEAR like to visit the outskirts of Florence from this unique perspective, then you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that irresistible vintage touch that is VIA IDONE 3/C - 55042 FORTE DEI MARMI (LU) undoubtedly less tiring. Ask your concierge. ITALY

30 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.fedeliscashmere.com www.wheretraveler.com 31 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM CLOTHING & Aspesi W The Guidelines M The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran H E O This directory, grouped by category, is a list of R . C ACCESSORIES Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, E T R R A V E L E establishments recommended by the editors of elegant details and natural materials. His current Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Angela Caputi Giuggiù collections are still based on the original “no frills” The boutique offers an extraordinary selection philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold of clothing items for every type of woman. In outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to addition, hats, bags and other accessories from Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat the coordinates on the street map (pages 78-79). all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r.

and designer Angela Caputi chooses these articles T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm- SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from personally to combine with and complete her 7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, elegant 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 take the traditional lunch break. Most shops design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open Mon-Sat are closed on Sundays (except those located in 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, Brunello Cucinelli central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed your concierge. up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian Anichini Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children generally included in the price of goods. Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder where skilled artisan hands create elegant items Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the for newborns, children and youngsters using the TAX-FREE SHOPPING production of high-quality cashmere knitwear and best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to today boasts top-level production with total look to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased men’s and women’s collections. Today it is seen A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, and exported from the EU: before finalizing as a model enterprise all over the world for its located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat whether they are eligible for a tax refund. defining itself as “a humanistic company”. www. 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 UnionPay Service Hotline: dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: [email protected]

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest NEW cardholder base. With more than 7 billion OPENING cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 9,000 merchants are located in Florence. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as the Rinascente department stores, The Mall, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders.

DINING The entire Ferragamo universe Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the Situated in via de’ Tornabuoni, in Florence’s main street for shopping, inside Palazzo Spini Feroni, price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as the Ferragamo boutique hosts all the fashion house’s collections. By Chiara Zaccarelli a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and Florentine brand that has known how ground floor of the building, inside large >> Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de to combine age-old hand crafting spaces decorated with 18th-century frescoes, T: 055 292123. rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars Tribute to the perfumier’s art A skills with the creativity typical of stretching from Piazza Santa Trinita to the banks www.ferragamo.com are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ Like Venice, Florence was a key city for the history of perfume in Italy. When Caterina de’ products made in Italy, today Salvatore of the River Arno. And it is precisely the wing area is specifically offered. Medici, who was passionate about perfumes, married the future king of France Henry II, with Ferragamo represents quality, contemporary of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita Set meals: prices are per person and usually her to the court she took the trusted Florentine perfumier Renato Bianco, who contributed refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). elegance, innovation and tradition. These that hosts the Ferragamo’s Creations corner, to the diffusion of perfume in all the European courts. Venice and Florence, furthermore, are € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / are the distinctive features of every Salvatore with the exclusive footwear line that revisits €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. united by another female figure: Bianca Cappello, the Venetian noblewoman who married Ferragamo product, which give the value some of the brand’s iconic models and also Grand Duke of Florence Francesco I de’ Medici and to whom the Florentine boutique is and authenticity that this brand is universally includes a collection of bags and accessories SIGHTSEEING dedicated. The Merchant of Venice store is structured into a vast range of Eaux de Parfum recognized as possessing. The Florentine with the most representative prints and The information provided on museums and and Eaux de Toilette, completed by products for personal care, for the environment monuments is verified as meticulously as boutique, which contains all the fashion house’s decorations. This is a space whose layout recalls possible. However, data such as telephone and accessories. These essences are contained in packaging with designs inspired by men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume the studio where Salvatore Ferragamo received numbers, opening hours, prices and the the glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store provides a collections, is located inside the medieval his customers and all its creative inspiration. A accessibility of sites are all subject to change, personalized layering service: in this way customers can experience the thrill of creating a Palazzo Spini Feroni, the company’s historic unique opportunity to fully immerse yourself on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration tailor-made perfume according to their own tastes and desires and discover the ancient work, museum loans or changes workshop since 1938, today its headquarters in the universe of this gifted innovator who has secrets of the perfumier’s tradition. of management. Ask your concierge. and the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo revolutionised the world of women’s footwear Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. www.themerchantofvenice.com Museum. The boutique occupies the entire through new models, volumes and materials.

32 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 33 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Luxury Top Brands

ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open Mon-Sat The intrecciato squares of ’Palio Dahlia www.albertaferretti.com. Open daily 10am- 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ 10.30am-7.30; Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. Chamomile’ by BOTTEGA VENETA harken 7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107. T: 055 2669101. Map E3 Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 T: 055 2608931. Map F3 back to the medieval flags of the Palio in Siena. T: 055 212995. Map E4 • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r.

DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open MONCLER—www.moncler.com. Open Mon- ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am- 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open T: 055 75927010. Map F4 T: 055 2657583. Map E3 PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am-

7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. T: 055 287066. • Open T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am- 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Open Mon-Sat MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. Mon-Sat 10am-7. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 267471. Map E3 2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm- 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Antinori, 6/r. 7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com T: 055 2381004. Map E3 T: 055 292050. Map E3

T: 055 287931. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open daily

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open Mon- 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 43-45. BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. T: 055 2658082. Map E4 Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ T: 055 9040100. Map E3

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza Santa Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 2741013. Map E3 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— Trinita, 1/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am- HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. Open Sizing Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com. 7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Por Santa Maria, 70. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- T: 055 294909. Map F4 T: 055 292123. Map E4 T: 055 264254. Map E3 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27. ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Women,s clothes Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo T: 055 219179. Map E3 7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. IT EUR US UK Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. 36 32 1 4 T: 055 210856. Map F3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. T: 055 2670086. Map D3 T: 055 2398688. Map E4 38 34 2 6 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta 40 36 4 8 Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275. Map F4 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. Open FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7.30pm. 42 38 6 10 7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. T: 055 216227. 44 40 8 12 T: 055 212305. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via Map E3 Map F3 46 42 10 14

degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. Map E3 48 44 12 16 FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Open TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. 7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Women,s shoes 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 T: 055 2382883. Map F4 IT EUR US UK 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16. T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am- 36 36 6 3 T: 055 285832. Map F3 7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Women. GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com 37 37 6.5 4 T: 055 287761. Map F3 Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily T: 055 293142. Map E4 38 38 7.5 5 2pm/3pm-7pm. NEW OPENING 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. MICHAEL KORS— 39 39 8.5 6 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 www.michaelkors.com. 40 40 9 7 T: 055 219041. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am- 41 41 9.5 8 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. Open daily 7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. T: 055 290284. Map F3 Men,s clothes

T: 055 293811. Map E4 IT EUR US UK MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 50 46 36 36 CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. 52 48 38 38 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, T: 055 215774. Map F4

36/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat 58 54 44 44 10am-7pm. Piazza della Signoria, 10. 60 56 46 46 T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Fragrance & Beauty Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun Men,s shoes 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 49. Intense and long-lasting, the colours of IT EUR US UK T: 055 298181. Map F3 ’Les Beiges’ by CHANEL give you a beautiful, 40 40 7.5 6 natural and radiant look. CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open 41 41 8 7 Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. 42 42 8.5 8 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. 43 43 9 9 T: 055 2670157. Map E4 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open Mon- 46 46 12 12 Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Fresh and feminine, the ASPESI silk blouse plays The overlapping of a Bohemian spirit and Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3 with colour contrasts and lively tones to create a technical cotton are the key to this outfit

style that is elegant and youthful at the same time. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI.

34 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 35 SHOPPING

Elena Mirò An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been Tax Free synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, refined and ever new style. From dresses to Refund Guide outerwear, from trousers to accessories, to beachwear, the brand expresses the pleasure 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods The essence of nature in a jewellery item: of dressing a woman’s shape with style. www. and services, and is part of the European Union’s elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun these earrings from the ’Dune’ collection by value added tax system. 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 2657725. ANNA MARIA CAMMILLI are all about soft 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a Map F3 forms and precious details.

VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services Giovanni Raspini supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. In the beating heart of the fashion district, the which, now in its second generation, has become a 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in successful international group. From clothing (jackets, • you are a non-EU resident; Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is suits and high-fashion sports items, but also shirts and ties) to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes • the goods purchased are intended for personal or a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized and the SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano family use only and are carried in your luggage; layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often Ricci represents Italian excellence all over the world, • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited making production entirely hand-made by qualified 154,94 Euro (VAT included); edition - silverware, objects for the home, hand- Italian craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice crafted white bronze creations, always having a style values of the manufacturing tradition and the roots should include a description of the goods purchased, that is midway between minimalism and classicism of the territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico your personal information as well as the details of as the common denominator. From the design to Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San Frediano district that has produced precious fabrics your passport or any other equivalent document; the wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamond- since 1786 and today still uses the original ancient • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the setting, each piece is entirely hand worked. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. Via Porta hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat third month after the month that you bought them; Rossa, 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. • several specific customs formalities are T: 055 210856. Map E3 #BoggiGentlemanStyle Luisa Via Roma complied with; MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer DEPARTMENT STORES 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisa Via Roma is a within four months after the purchase was made. landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the world Rinascente 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must over. A global powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place be shown at the customs exit point when leaving million visitors a month, its Florence store also offers to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items a digitalized purchasing experience: instead of home and design items. For women, proposals into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs displaying the garments, they have been replaced of the best Italian and international brands range with interactive installations. Don’t miss the elegant from the classic to the contemporary and for men A GENTLEMAN BEFORE checking in). terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon-Sat from formal to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of 5. return After leaving EU territory, the traveller must 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. reference for luxury shopping and for new brands, the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. exclusive products and the unveiling of innovations. customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice T: 055 9064116. Map F3 There is a Food Market on the fourth floor with gourmet products made in Italy and a selection of must be returned within four months from the date Marina Rinaldi excellent international products, while the Terrace when the document was issued. Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for FINDS IRONY IN with café-bar (T: 055 283612) offers a spectacular 360° 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide panoramic view of the city’s main landmarks www. retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve range of collections, featuring both contemporary rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am- and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax 8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags Free” sign in its window). Map F3 and accessories for a total look that exudes class 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer . and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat EVERYTHING immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente- FINE ARTS leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3 Abacus - Rule 23 - the passenger from having to return the invoice to Société Anonyme BINDERY A workshop producing precious bindings. the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at An independent shop of North-European conception The raw materials, such as “Acid Free” paper, 100% major international airports or main border crossings. inspired by the underground atmospheres of cotton or leather with vegetable tanning or hand- Most major department stores have Tax Free the hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin dyed using ancient methods and natural waxes, are all Refund offices. and New York (the name is a homage to Marcel selected with care. All the phases are supervised in the workshop: from the folding of the sheets by hand to the 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply Duchamp and Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde art gallery in New York called Société delicate phase of hand stitching, to the application of the payment of a small administrative sum which Anonyme in the 1920s). Located in the literary the cover using various styles. www.abacusfirenze.com. directly deducted is from the amount of VAT artistic district of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. refunded to the traveller. international renown and niche brands, as well as Via dei Macci, 50 (Santa Croce district). T: 345 3280318. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund its own men’s and women’s collection that is only Map L4 sold in-store and online. www.societeanonyme.it. within a reasonable period of time, he or she Antico Setificio Fiorentino Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great Via G.B. Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, aforementioned companies. tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, thanks 24/a/b/c/d. (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. 10. also to its famous warping machine based on a design However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded Map L3 directly by customs offices. by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has boggi.com Stefano Ricci been producing some of the most sumptuous silk Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, brocades, damask, taffeta, and lampas in the world, portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund with the purest male elegance as the watchword. 100% made in Italy. www.anticosetificiofiorentino.com. These, in short, are the values of the company Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3 FIRENZE | Via della Vigna Nuova 27 | Tel. +39 055 219.179 36 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018

WHERE FIRENZE 207x277 ed Giugno.indd 1 14/05/18 10:32 UNIQUE IN FLORENCE SHOPPING OTTICALEONE CEI MANTOVANI & SONS Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in Galleria Romanelli JEWELRY & WATCHES dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique precious sculpture artwork for six generations in Alessandro Dari models from a rare and abundant archive. one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of UNIQUE Housed in the 15th-century Palazzo The production, entirely made in Florence, is Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, Nasi-Quaratesi, the “Museum Shop” of master destined for private homes, hotels and private a meeting place for buyers and artists, where goldsmith Alessandro Dari has an area used to exhibit clubs all over the world. Qualified consultancy sculptors and their students carry out their work daily his precious works and another used as an artistic service provided on antiques and on the surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work workshop where jewellery and decorative objects is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk are developed, including one-off items and themed reproduction of period items. replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. collections. Some of his works are displayed at the www.raffaelloromanelli.com. Open Mon-Fri nearby Treasury of the Grand Dukes in Palazzo Pitti. www.leonecei.com 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 www.alessandrodari.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- Via dei Fossi, 47/r. 2396 0 47.Map C4 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via San Niccolò, 115/r. T: 055 T: 055 2396039. 244747. Map G6 Leone Cei & Sons Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in dressing Angela Caputi Giuggiù tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and armchairs The new ’Sophia ’ bucket bag by GIANNI COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned faithfully reproduced from antique models from a rare CHIARINI is a cult object for vintage lovers, throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations GALLERIA ROMANELLI and abundant archive. The production, entirely made celebrating the union of essential design made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, in Florence, is destined for private homes, hotels and high-quality production made in Italy. combined to create unique objects both in terms of The Galleria Romanelli has been handing and private clubs all over the world. The carving, colour and shape. Her creations have been used as down precious sculpture artwork for six gilding, burnishing and lacquering work is performed accessories by famous television and film producers. generations in Borgo San Frediano. An rigorously by hand following traditional procedures Pitti Mosaici The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a artistic workshop, a meeting place for and using natural products and pigmentations. Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite Palazzo look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical buyers and artists, where sculptors and A huge department is dedicated to fabrics for Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine tradition of blend of contemporary and classical taste. www. their students carry out their work daily furnishings, with a collection of fabrics still produced marquetry with marble, hard and semi-precious angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Mon- stones. Unique hand-made items to provide coverings surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. on ancient looms or limited editions, or produced on Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: request and based on customers’ designs. Qualified for walls, framed items and furnishings recalling the Work is done by commission on original 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique Borgo SS. Apostoli, consultancy service provided on antiques and on the atmospheres and style of the Renaissance. Today the 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4 sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara reproduction of period items. www.leonecei.com. art studio creates entire made-to-measure residential marble and restorations. Headquarters & Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. T: projects all over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Annamaria Cammilli www.raffaelloromanelli.com 055 2381870. Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, it Borgo San Frediano, 70. Pitti, 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6 has been present with its creations in shop windows 055 2396039. Map D3 T: 055 2396047. and display cases all over the world for over 30 years Papiro (Il) Torchio (Il) and is synonymous with a unique, unmistakable Italian Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting style. Attention to detail for rings, necklaces, bracelets objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products and brooches, often drawing inspiration from nature LA MÉNAGÈRE tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, with refined materials such as Florentine leather, hand- and the floral world. www.annamariacammilli.com. photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition to a line marbled paper and coloured cloths, also devising Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm- of classic leather accessories. www.ilpapirofirenze.eu. new artisan articles with contemporary materials and 7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. T: 055 2608617. A delightful concept store that includes a Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio.it.Open Mon-Fri Map F4 shop with design objects for the home, a Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 6499151. Map G1 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Via de’ florist’s, in addition to a restaurant and a Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Map G6 Aprosio bistro. Located right in the city centre, in Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and creates the space that was once occupied by the jewellery accessories and products for decorating first Florentine household item shop, which interiors, with glass beads from Murano and Bohemia opened in 1896, it combines industrial and crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- recycled materials and design objects for a 7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. T: 055 210127. Map E2 contemporary result with a romantic touch. Cassetti 1926 www.lamenagere.it In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Via de’ Ginori, 8/r. Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine T: 055 0750600. watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio that develops innovative projects with its own artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5

IL TORCHIO Damiani Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted crafting tradition, Il Torchio creates with innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant bookbinding products with refined materials classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive such as Florentine leather, hand-marbled values of Damiani jewellery. Their collections are paper and coloured cloths, also devising new realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with artisan articles with contemporary materials the best Italian tradition and admired throughout the and techniques. world. www.damiani.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4 OFFICINA PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA Dodo www.legatoriailtorchio.it DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by Via de’ Bardi, 17. The Grand Sales Room, which you come to immediately after the entrance, was originally Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or T: 055 2342862. one of the chapels of the ancient Dominican convent, then became a storeroom in the collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm 18th century and finally a hall to welcome the customers of the pharmacy and apothecary. pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www.smnovella.com www.dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun

38 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 39

SHOPPING Luisa Via Roma, a unique shopping experience

ASPESI OFFICINE PANERAI DR. VRANJES See page33. See this page. See page 44.

11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 Officine Panerai Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 2741573. Map E4 Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: Massai Orafi boasts a unique design and a strong identity that the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced display tables; the first floor has two rooms for Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of space on the first floor is devoted to special sales customer care centre, where qualified Rolex the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions of technicians are available to look after the precious pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines watches from the historical Museum; on the ground timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ disposal to Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. Map F5 workshop is an unique experience: on the top floor carry out repairs and share his passion with Panerai of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years enthusiasts. www.panerai.com. Open Mon-Sat Tiffany & Co. master goldsmiths practise the ancient fretworking, 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. Located in the luxury shopping street par carving and engraving traditions typical of the T: 055 9040013. Map F2 excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi.it. one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4 collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, design creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. Luisa Via Roma was founded in the early 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, and her Luisa Via Roma Boutique Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116 de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. Map C4 imagination and later that of her grandson, Andrea Panconesi, have turned this Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Ugo Poggi high street boutique into a landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the world Sun 11am-7.30pm It came about in Florence in the early 20th over. It earned its fortune to begin with by scouting emerging stylists who would www.luisaviaroma.com century as a producer of silverware, porcelain, glassware and furnishings. After a century, now go on to dominate the pantheon of global fashion (they were the first to bring in its third generation, today the brand proposes an unknown Kenzo to Italy in the late 1960s). The next happy move was to open a sophisticated production of luxury Florentine hand-crafted items for the home: from precious an online boutique in 1999, when few people were willing to take the risk of crystal chandeliers to bone china crockery, to a buying on the web. Today Luisa Via Roma is a global powerhouse of e-commerce precious selection of antique silverware. No longer just internally produced furnishing accessories, but with 5 million visitors a month, and its Florence store also offers a digitalized also historic Italian and top quality international purchasing experience: instead of displaying the garments, they have been brands. www.ugopoggifirenze.com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Via degli replaced with interactive installations. Luckily, some things never change, like Strozzi, 26/r. T: 055 216741. Map E3 the pleasure of a relaxing break, before or after your shopping spree, on the Vacheron Constantin Boutique elegant terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine watchmaking design house in the world, founded in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is also known for the tabernacle with a painting of the Madonna with Child and Saint John that AQUAZZURA marked the presence of an ancient oratory of the High level craftsmanship and contemporary design are the key features of this brand Andrea Panconesi, CEO of Luisa Via Roma and grandson of the founder Luisa, has led the company for more than 40 years. He began work Holy Sepulchre, which came under the control of in the family boutique as window dresser and buyer in the 1960s, and from the start was on the look out for emerging talents and trends. created in 2011 and inspired by designer Edgardo Osorio. Aquazzura shoes combine the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. www. style and comfort and are worn by movie stars and the icons of the fashion world. www.aquazzura.com cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5

42 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 43 SHOPPING [ RINASCENTE]

Gianni Chiarini PASSION SHOPPING Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of ancient artisan wisdom in AquaFlor The best shopping Since 1774 PINEIDER products have been the creation of contemporary bags and A perfume shop with the charm of past times, synonymous with contemporary style shaped by accessories, with an idea of pure design. dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, artisan savoir faire, uniqueness, tradition and design. but at the same time sophisticated, which personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A has its roots in the heart of Florentine studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - www.aquaflorfirenze. LEATHER 7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: com Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa 055 2654306. Map D3 Croce, 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5 Cuoieria Fiorentina From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of Il Bisonte Dr. Vranjes the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came Home fragrances and elegant furnishing this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion accessories made by hand in Florence for more are created with extreme care and top-quality natural for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories materials. A vast range of leather handbags, travel Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully and the headquarters of the Florentine home bags and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, fragrance company founded and managed by for him and for her, offering excellent value for diaries, belts and other accessories epitomising the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and money. Another strong point is the personalization the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna of the products, organised to satisfy the tastes and focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: Maria. In addition to the traditional production requirements of customers, who can count Michelle a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items Obama among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina. leather which has the advantage of improving with (crystal glass and ceramic catalytic lamps with it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: fragrancing systems), the brand has diversified its Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes and 215722. Map E4 gift boxes, also giving a strong Florentine identity

to the packaging, inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3• Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; In the heart of Florence, Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. just a few steps away Map l3 from the historic treasures of the city, La Ménagère you will find Rinascente: the ideal place CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store of around 1500 square metres that includes a to find the best in fashion, accessories, shop with design objects for the home, a florist’s, beauty, home and design. in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city centre, in the space that was once And don’t miss the top floor with the occupied by the first Florentine household item Terrazza bar & restaurant. shop, which opened in 1896, it combines industrial and recycled materials and design objects for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. www. lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am. Via de’ Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1

Madova Gloves Shoppers will find commodities of the best more mouth-watering sweet and savoury >> Rinascente Since 1919 for four generations Madova has Italian and international brands. A large area culinary delights, all distinct for choice www.rinascente.it produced leather gloves lined with cashmere, is dedicated to women’s fashion which ingredients and exquisite packaging. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; rabbit fur, silk or lambswool. Located between Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Pitti, is the only includes a vast and prestigious range in both All products at the Food Market can be Piazza della Repubblica. Map F3 Florentine shop that produces its excellent quality classic fashions as well as the latest trends. packaged in one of our elegant Gift boxes. gloves in-house, with a vast assortment of models T: 055 219113 Special attention is also given to men’s wear Should you need some advice, you can and colours. Deliveries worldwide. www.madova. The sacred heart com. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am-7pm; Sat 9.30am- where shoppers can choose from formal make an appointment with one of our 7pm. Via de’ Guicciardini, 1/r. T: 055 2396526. attire to smart casual wear. personal shoppers that are at your disposal Map F5 of Dolce & Gabbana every day to help you put together a Devotion Bag. The evocative name of the new bag from Dolce & Gabbana, which celebrates Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di The constant arrival of new brands, unique fantastic food hamper. ADVERTORIAL the indisputable devotion of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana to style, attention to detail, Santa Maria Novella commodities and the latest products UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy and a concept of fashion founded on craftsmanship, passion and creativity. The distinguishing exclusive to Rinascente make the store the On the top floor you can enjoy a spectacular feature of the Devotion Bag is the heart in antiqued brass, clad in a fine layer of 24k gold applied in Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica is housed in a part of focal point for your high-end shopping in view of the Duomo while having a drink at la to the clasp. The crafting of this precious frieze involves the lost wax technique, commonly used the Dominican convent complex of Santa Maria the city. Terrazza bar & restaurant: at lunch you can by goldsmiths, whereby the form is modelled in warm wax and a mould is then built around Novella and has been open to the public for over enjoy a menu that includes pasta dishes of it, after which molten metal, in this case brass, is poured into the mould, displacing the wax. four centuries (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, The Food Market on the fourth floor is the day, the renowned pappa al pomodoro The resulting heart is embellished with a miniature of the DG logo and framed by pearls and beauty products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets and chocolates) are sold all over the a space dedicated to the best Made in (tomato bread soup), Caprese salad, Niçoise foliage motifs, which recall the decorations of the sacred tradition. The Devotion Bag is available world in 75 single brand stores and represent a Italy gourmet food and a selection of the with tuna, boiled egg and olives, Greek with in three colours (black, red, and optical white) and three sizes (small, medium, and large), with a production par excellence on account of their most sought-after international produce. cucumber, feta cheese and black olives, quilted or smooth leather finish. Completing this portable treasure chest is a leather hand grip, quality raw materials and centuries-old handicraft or a 24k gold-plated brass shoulder chain. www.dolcegabbana.it techniques, with the aid of modern technologies. The choicest pasta, delicious sauces, tasty raw meat and fish, sandwiches with fresh

The frescoed monumental environments - Sales SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE appetizers, luxurious chocolates and many ingredients and seasonal produce.

44 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 45 V A SI E S T E S E

CASTELLO SESTO FIORENTINO

SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A

S ILE A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E V APR S VI VIA XX

T A G. DUPRÈ E VIA DEL CHIUSO DEI PAZZI S E

I N A I L U I G O D L A N I G E R A I V V IA D E L L E PA N C H E

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VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I VIA CARLO DEL GRECO Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

VIA PORTIGIANI Cattedrale di San Romolo BO SC ONI STRADA PROVINCIALE 54 DEI PIAZZA PIAZZA G.GARIBALDI MINO DA FIESOLE VIA MASSICINI V L. U C C H E S E

VIALE XI AGOSTO V VIA SANT’APPOLINARE

A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E I VIA S.CHIARA

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VIALE SAN LUCA G VIALE GAETANO PIERACCINI I VIA GIULIO CACCINI O

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VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DELLE FORBICI Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI G. BARTOLINI Villa Fabbricotti VIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R VIA TRIESTE TERZOLLE V I A G . B A R B E R A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA TINI PIAZZA MUGNONE VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA B R O N GIAMPIETRO VIA BEZZECCA ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi OFF V. F. CARACCIOLO V V I A L A VIA GAETANO MILANESI I A D I N O C O M P VIA SAN DONATO V I A T R E Parco Liceo V AI C G . U A S T I V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLE QUERCE Leonardo da Vinci V. O. DA PORDENONE VIA TRIESTE N IA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I Chiesa della B.V. M LARGO Madre della A G Divina Provvidenza CESARE Orti del Parnaso N I CO MUGNONE V IA M A R A G L IA N O CANTÙ

V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO VIA ANTONIO STOPPANI NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I PIAZZA LUDOVICO ANTONIO VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI V N D O M E N I VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I MURATORI SA Preziosissimo ANTI VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Sangue I A MUGNONE U G I A V I VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI Stazione Firenze Statuto Giardino V I A F A E N T I PIAZZA V V. G. dell'Orticoltura VIALE FRANCESCO REDI VIA FRANCESCO BONAINI FEB OXR A I A V I Villa il TOMMASO PIAZZA Ventaglio VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C ALVA EDISON V. I. NIEVO VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA VIA BOLOGNESE DELLE CURE C O I L Chiesa della UIDO CAVALC Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT I N I VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA RFA NA C SEPC IVOR I PIAZZA VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI VIA V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I VNES AIRN EI N I V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI D EASLO TATV I U TO D I GIACOMO PIAZZA A L I VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N I A PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O XAMV XI A G GO I V E VITTORIA VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I DAV I ER LO M TO I G A V IA M A R A G L IA N O V. TOSCANELLI VIA DELLE FORBICI U VIA A. GARBASSO G VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI PIAZZA VIA DELLA CERNAIA A VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI I U VIA FILIPPO PACINI SE V. A. MEUCCI V GALILEO VIA ANTONIO COCCHI S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O T MUGNONE FERRARIS VIA DEI CAIROLI O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Istituto Comprensivo Statale R I V V I A D E L G ONNA TOS VIA LEONARDO FIBONACCI H Sacro Cuore VIALE ALESSANDROV. VOLTAG. B. AMICI I I VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI L U C A G OI R D A N O A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI LARGO C .A V I V. MAD PONTE ROSSO

V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E V. A. NICOLODI PIETRO D Golf Club Parco Di Firenze V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A CAPEI E

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VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON V. G. INGHIRAMI PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO V. A. PACINOTTI IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T RE DI SAN EOXL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O PA MARTIRI N S IACOPINO V. S. BOTTICELLI PIAZZA E A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI V AI M A S A C C I GIOVANNI G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA IA V IA C A S S IA SHOPPING ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO Giardino VIA D. MANTELLATE V AI V AI L E D E MI LI L E FARDELLA della Fortezza VI A DU DI TORREARSA P I V. G. MARCONI C E R V I A D E L A VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO VIA LUPI BONIF D’AO PRATELLINO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE Room, Green Room, Ancient Apothecary and store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought- shoemakers and craftspeople in the city. Created C A P P O N VIA NINO BIXIO VIA CASTELFIDARDO STA PIAZZA The V. VOLTURNO Chiesa di Sant'Agata V Chiesa San Jacopino AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CAIROLI I A Sacristy - have been returned to their former after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the luxury L E VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO VIALE SPARTACO LAVAGNINI PIAZZA VASARI VIA SAN GALLO M I SAVONAROLA V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O splendour thanks to restoration work. www. and ceremonial attire both for men and women, hand-craftingACIO tradition, the brand combines a A VIA G. PAISIELLO O N VIA POGGI VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI IL VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V F smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. vallitessuti. typically European refined aesthetic sensibility Giardino VIA PIETRO MARONCELLI VIA G. DOLFI V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O O P V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V I Campo Di R A A S. CATERINA D'ALESSANDRIA Marte Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2 com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via with modern Latin AmericanV I A C A V O U R elegance. Aquazzura E VI V IA G U S T A V O M O D E N A Chiesa VIAPIO FEDI PIAZZA G VIA DELLE RUOTE PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E U Nostra Signora D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI I D della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. T:del 055 Sacro 282485. Cuore Map D3 shoes have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI O The Merchant of Venice VIA ROSOLIN Franchi MONTIGNANO stars, European royalty and fashion insiders F M Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. V IA V E N E Z IA NEW The sixth point-of-sale opened in Italy, in Wolford VIA BARTOLOMMEI Giardino A O VIA MASSA RIDOLFI aroundPalazzo the Pandolfini globe. www.aquazzura.com.VIA ALFONSO LA MARMORA Open V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE LINGERIE a Acity representing excellence in the history of the A high-end Austrian hosiery, lingerie STYLE VIA DELLA FORTEZZA VIA DEI SETTE SANTI BAMBINE E BAMBINI daily 10am-7pm. Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 EGLI ARTISTI T VIA GIUSEPPE SIRTORI C PIAZZA Cimitero parfumier’s art. The historic brand epitomising the and beachwear brand. In its extensive ready- I O DI BESLAN V AI M A S A C C OI INDIPENDENZA 291242.Chiesa di Map D4 VIA PIER ANTONIO MICHELI della Misericordia Passerella dell'Isolotto S. Giovanni VIA D VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Venetian art of perfume-making carries a luxury line to-wear and lingerie range, from modern styles dei Cavalieri VIA MASSA Giardino VL. T. MAMIANI comprising a wide range of exclusive fragrances to classic cuts made from the finest materials, V AI M A N N E L L I V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente PINKO CAMPO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E VIASTATIONERY SAN GALLO VIA CITTADELLA for men and women, bath and body collections, there is no shortage of dresses, shirts, trousers, V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI V AI A D N O F L A V A I V Giardino DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI LG. PORTA di Valfonda VIA DEL PRATELLO agenda home fragrances and accessories in elegant flacons skirts, sweaters and costumes. www.wolfordshop. Teatro dell’Opera LEOPOLDA Pineider P EI R C A P P O N I A Z N E A F A I V V IA G U E L F A Giardino based on the ancient designs of renowned Murano it. OpenV. MONTANELLIMon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am- Artisan savoir faire sincedei Semplici 1774 in the universe of VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO Convento VIA GIAMBOLOGNA VIA PIO FEDI glass blowers. www.themerchantofvenice.com. 1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 64/r. T: di San Marco VIA G.LA PIRA Put yourself on the style VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RATA paper, writing and leather goods. Tradition and Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPPONI V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda Open Mon-Tues 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. 055 219169. Map F4 REPA LO design are the distinctive features of this brand, VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO PORTA AL L V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I map with the latest trendsLARGO V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Wed-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. which is unique worldwide: from the printing of Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI San Barnaba PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE PIAZZA SAN MARCO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE T: 055 216559. Map E3 VIA SANTA SAN GA VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA precious and embossed paper to articles made of VIA DELL'ARCOLAIO SAN BARTOLOMEO Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale SHOES VIA for upV AI M A S A C C OI to 70% less ADUA B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I EM U I F A I V AL GIGNORO V IA G U E L F A fine leather, to elegant writing instruments created V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Valli Tessuti Alta Moda Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Aquazzura Chiesa A R N O San Jacopo di Ripoli in the Tuscan workshops, PineiderLa SS. Annunziata products have DONATELLO VIALE MANFREDO FANTI VIA DEI FALCUCCI A reference point in Florence that offers its di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI The flagship store is situated in the historical Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V endless possibilities of personalisation. www. V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Chiesa clienteleCasa di Riposo the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by degli Inglesi episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia PIAZZA BORGO PINTI della Beata Palazzo Corsini,ONI Mercato on thePIAZZA picturesque DEL banks of pineider.com. OpenDELLA Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO V IA D E G L IA L F A N I V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale SANTISSIMA Museo Archeologico V AI L E M A L T A the most beautiful haute couture collections. The V.Z CENTRALE V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO Stazione Ferroviaria the Arno River and in the proximity ofVIA DE’GINORI the best de’ Rucellai, 4-7/r.ANNUNZIA T: 055 284656. Map E3 VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella VIA DELL’ARIENTO Nelson Mandela Forum E P E M A Z Z I N I ORI LI

VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI OC IN Spedale degli Innocenti VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO V AI S O L F E R NI O SO degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A CD AME LAG RDPV OI ' N DELLA STAZIONE A V I A C A V O U R VIA MILAZZO VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI V AI M A S A C C OI Luxury shopping D E ’ COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB . L DEI NELLI VIALE GIUSEP V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VIA V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E na da Palazzo ateri V I A R I C VIA DEI SERVI .C na Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A C O L O N N A Sie Medici Riccardi O S da Museo I V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . P. DI MADONNA C BORGO PINTI With summer around the V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I V C PIAZZA VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci VIALE MANFREDO FANTI L’ISOLOTTO V. DEGLI AVELLI Basilica A V AI D E G L IA L F A N I VIALE BERNARDO SEGNI V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI L

VIA DEL R. FIORENTINO R. DEL VIA di San Lorenzo SAN E VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ G O R I T corner, there’s never been VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI Basilica di LORENZO S VIA GIORDANI L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I Santa Maria Novella VIA D A VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO C PIAZZA V I A D E ’ V A N N I V I A P I G N O N E Ponte della Vittoria E L VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI E’ Teatro D Università a better time to refresh your VIALE EDMONDO DE AMICIS V I A VIA DEL SANSOVINO Santa C MASSIMO D'AZEGLIO VIA LIBERO ANDREOTTI VIA PANZANI ONTI degli Studi di Firenze PIAZZA V. S. LUCIALucia O Pucci VIA GIOVANNI BOVIO Z VIA PALESTRO sul Prato VIA DELL'ALBERO look. Fabulous orals were all VIA MARSALA P. BATONI VI A DELL’ALLORO OLI Chiesa Polimoda Santa Maria V IA D E L L A S C A L A VIA DEL GIGLIO Parrocchiale VIA ZANETTI AN LOREN CAS Maddalena dei Pazzi over the catwalks this season VIA ANTONIO SCIALOJA V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI PIAZZA Teatro Sacro Cuore VIA FERDINANDO MARTINI V I A G I O V A N N I A N T O N I O S O G L I A N I VIA MONTEBELLO PIAZZA VIA DE’Niccolini MARTELLI V I A R I TADDEO GADDI B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I SANTA ORGO S VIA DEL MEZZETTA V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O B VIA DEI SERVI - discover the trend and more IA DE’ CONTI VIA CIRO MENOTTI MARIA V VIA DEI BANCHI VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI VIA BRONZINO NOVELLA LO FARINI from renowned Italian and VIALE GIUSEPPE MAZZINI V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E L A I V V AI M A N N E L L I LI Santa Maria della V. G . B . N I C C O L I N I VIAL. MAITANI INEL Battistero D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera V. DELLA CASA Pergola international designer brands PATRIZIA PEPE VIA GIAMBATTISTA VICO VIA DELLE VIABELLE DONNE di San Giovanni Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di V. DEL TREBBIO NA VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA Santommaso Tempio Maggiore VIA BRONZINO DEI RON LUIGI CAR Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo V. D'aquino VIA DEI PILASTRI A Israelitico like Furla, Dolce & Gabbana PIAZZA VI Sinagoga VIA CAPO DI MONDO V. DEL GIGNORO Antinori VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI VIA DI MELEGNANO PINTI GUGLIELMO VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti V. CAMPANELLA VIA DEL MEZZETTA VIALE ETRURIA L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A Chiesa FIESOLA V. FRA' SARPI Chiesa dei V. DELL'ORIUOLO VIA SANT'EGIDIO and Pinko for up to 70% less di San A OBERDAN VIA DEL SOLE Santi Michele I VIA G. LEOPARDI VIA PIETRO COLLETTA PIAZZA V VIA TITO SPERI Paolino V.CANONICA e Gaetano VIA

VIA GIOVANNI ANTONIO DOSIO ECCHIETTI V A AMI . A N Z O N I ROMA OSUE' CARDUCCI at Barberino Designer Outlet. V I A L U C A L A N D U C C I DI SAN V V. I VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO A V I A P I S A N A V. DEI CORSI BONIZZI V. DEL CAMPIDOGLIO VIA DEI TOSINGHI I VIA DELLE OCHE VIA DELLA SPADA DELLO B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I B O R G O VIA DEI PEPI G V SALVI IA VIA DEL PORCELLANA VIA DI MEZZO MATTONAIA LUNGARNO AMERIGO VESPUCCI O V

DE' And with an array of cafés A VIA DEL PONTE SOSPESO L

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CIONI VIA FRA DIAMANTE VIA DEL CHIESINO I S A DEI BRUNELLESCHI S

V IA L U N G A V

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IUOLI E A Santa Margherita DELL VIA FELICE CAVALLOTTI VIA DEI FOSSI Museo DI Ponte D Sant'Ambrogio and restaurants to enjoy San Michele a San Salvi VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO V. D. V. ZA in S.M. dei Ricci O VIA L. MANARA VIA FRA' FILIPPO LIPPI

Marino Marini RN V.

Amerigo Vespucci PIAZZA CON PIAZZA P. GAETANO VIA VIA DEL MORO VIA DEGLI STROZZI DELLA V. SPEZIALI VIA CORSO

CAL BORGO DEGLI ALBIZI SALVEMINI

T O RO P. SAN VIA PIETRAPIANA during your visit, it’s

REPUBBLICA P PIER VETTORI V. M Chiesa di San Pietro a Monticelli V I A P I S A N A E I PIER

CHI A R N O Palazzo L ARTIRI VIA DEI FEDERIGHI P. DEGLI MAGGIORE Loggia BORGO LA CROCE P. DEI D V. GIORDANO BRUNO A D E I Strozzi DEL POPOLO VIA ANTONIO SCIALOJA Chiesa STROZZI TRE RE ER del Pesce guaranteed to be a VIA DELLA VIGNA NUOVA DE VIA DEL PURGATORIO VI VIA Di San Bartolomeo VIA DELL'ANCONELLA VIA DEGLI ANSELMI P. DEI SGC FIRENZE - PISA - LIVORNO PIAZZA IA

E I C VIA DELL'ULIVO PIAZZALE V PIAZZA PIER VIA PISANA a Monte Oliveto GOLDONI CIOMPI VIA DEI PARIONE VIA TAVOLINI I memorable day out. VIA ANTONIO DEL POLLAIOLO Loggia dell’ D VIA DANTE VIA DEI PANDOLFINI Porta alla Croce VIA DEL GUARLONE

V I A M A S O L I N O A Orsanmichele P. LORENZO V. V. DA BISTICCI ZIN DELLA V. DELL’INFERNO D Palazzo P. PIETRO

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MONA I M I Tax free shopping al Parione Poste Museo Ponte E VIA FRA' PAOLO SARPI VIA S. ONOFRIO Sant'Ambrogio CESARE BECCARIA

VIA BORGO SAN FREDIANO LUNGARNO CORSINI VIA PELLICCERIA D del Bargello CAVALCAVIA DELL'AFFRICO alla Carraia O R O N G I G L E D A I V V. V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O VIA FERDINANDO PAOLIERI Palazzo Bartolini VIA PORTA ROSSA VIA DELLA CONDOTTA V I A V I N C E N Z ONon-EU G I O B E R T I residents can enjoy a tax refund Basilica di Palazzo VIA VIGNA VECCHIA VI A VINCENZO CHIARUGIEXTRA 10% V I A P I S A N A Salinbeni VIA DEL PARIONCINO Teatro Verdi AM V. D. VENEZIANO Santa Trinita Davanzati Loggia del VIA GIUSEPPE VERDI Chiesa PIAZZA L O V I PIAZZA O IT VIA DI MONTE OLIVETO Chiesa L VC.PANICO V. DEL LA BURELLA VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO VIA EL VIA PIERO DI COSIMO VIA Porcellino V. CALIMARUZZA DI SAN FIRENZE VIA DEI PEPI Cattolica Parrocchiale on products purchased in our centre. G R LI S. Frediano SO E D PIAZZA I D EL Santi V IA D E L F IC O V I A G H I B E L L I N A LEON Show this page to our Guest PIAZZA AS PIAZZA VIA DELL'ANGUILLARA S. Maria Degli Angeli SO LE T Chiesa in Cestello Museo IC I PARTE BAR Simone e Giuda VIA BENOZZO GOZZOLI L VIA TORTA R ERME DELLA SIGNORIA Palazzo DE’ NERLI M GUELFA O BATTISTA Parrocchiale Santissimo Salvatore O Complesso O V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O V I A D E L L A C H I M E R A RDA VIA VACCHERECCIA SS Gondi VIA DE Croci sso a Monticelli BORGO SAN FREDIANO Ferragamo IO di San Firenze I Services to redeem your IA F Chiesa VIA GIACOMO ZANELLA A V.D.B PACCI D ALBERTI VIA PISANA D. CH LL'ANGUILLARA VIA DEIV. SANTI APOSTOLI R della VIA S. GIOVANNI LUNGARNO GUCCIARDINI V I A A R E T I N A BORGO DEI GRECI O Archivio di Stato Sacra Famiglia C VIA CA FOSSIL PIAZZA Palazzo Vecchio V. GIOVANNI DA VERRAZZANO Fashion Passport, giving you VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO NTA MARI C Santi Apostoli A DEI SALTERELLI Loggia LUNGARNO DEGLI ACCIAIOLI A CH S BELLOSGUARDO IASSO DEI VIA DELLA NINNA T An teatro e Biagio dei Lanzi VIA CORNO PIAZZA DI V I A L E A L E A R D O A L E A R D I N V I A G H I B E L L I N A V I A G I O T T O VIA DEL LEONE an extra 10% o outlet prices.

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LUGANO best local food and wines are on offer. MENDRISIO Open daily 10am-8pm. BERGAMO BRESCIA • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana NOVARA TRIESTE Florence, in MILANO Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t TORINO FERRARA and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to PIACENZA MAR Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GENOVA Castel GuelfoADRIATICO BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfigher, Under Armour FORTE destinations and many others. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI MAR LIGURE LUCCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet PISA the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIA playground, the possibility of recharging your SAN GIMIGNANO? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of SIENA ?Outlet Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it PERUGIA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.ROMA Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives TIRRENO direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectNAPOLI bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door by Value Retail and one of The Bicester Village office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Shopping Collection® Villages: a place where • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. hospitalitySARDEGNA makes the shopping experience Valdichiana Outlet Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance memorable. The Village is located in the Emilia- With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footware) featuring your favourite brands Romagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, daily 10am-8pm. surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience unique hospitality at the core of the services and is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, with over 130 boutiques of the world’s leading savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year to 70% off ), including Versace, Armani, Missoni, round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located Calvin Klein, Diesel, Paul Smith and Michael Kors. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

48 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 49 FOOD&WINE FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM Classic. To find out where Pescecane will be amidst little tables and large windows. Huge FOOD SHOPS stopping, check the website www.pescepane.it. selection of over 380 makes of rum, unique in the Galanti It recently opened “La Cucina di Pescepane” in via whole of Florence. Open from lunch to after- Delicatessen and wine shop. Classic dishes as well Carducci, where you can find the same specialities. supper, also hosts events. cafe1926firenze.com. as soups, pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, chicken Open Tues-Sun 12 noon-3pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 30/r (Sant’Ambrogio district). galantines, to eat in, under the porticoes outside Via G. Carducci, 3 (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2346296. Map L2 or to take away. Wide selection of wines and T: 055 2344397. Map L3 home-made jams. Everything made with extra- Enoteca Bonatti Pugi virgin olive oil and prime quality ingredients. Opened in Florence in 1934, this family-run Florentine’s favourite bread shop since 1925. www.gastronomiagalanti.com. Open Mon-Sat wine shop offers a wide selection of wines and Known for its schiacciata (a type of sponge cake), 8.30am-8pm. Piazza della Libertà, 31/r. T: 055 spirits from all over Italy and abroad, with a reputed to be one of the best in town, in classic or 490359. Off Map particular focus on France. www.enotecabonatti. rustic versions, and for delicious stuffed focaccia, it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am- Giumella pizza, fritters and a vast range of breads and 1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via V. Gioberti, 66-68/r. VEGAN With recipes based on the products pastries. www.fornopugi.it. Several locations: Piazza T: 055 660050. Off Map of the Florentine countryside, this delicatessen San Marco, 9/b. T: 055 280981 (open Mon-Sat offers organic zero miles food, made the same 7.45am-8pm; Via San Gallo, 62/r. T: 055 475975 (open Signorvino day. Recipes with cereals and legumes, seeds and Mon-Fri 7.45am-3.15pm); Via G. Orsini, 63-65. T: 055 In the heart of the city just steps from Ponte seasonal products. Among the specialties: reseitan 689763 (Open Mon-Sat 8.45am-7.45pm). Off Map Vecchio, the shop has a choice of 1500 labels of – stone-ground Tuscan durum wheat semolina selected wines from the best Italian cantinas, with water, salt and lentils – plus vegan cheeses WINE SHOPS applying the same formula used in its 15 outlets based on walnuts, almonds, sunflower seeds, oats across the country. It also does simple quality or rice flour. www.giumellavegan.it. Open Mon-Fri Caffè 19.26 food from the various regions. The terrace has a 10.30am-8pm. Via Lorenzo di Credi, 12/r. This bistrot in the Sant’Ambrogio district does a wonderful view of the Arno and Ponte Vecchio. T: 393 8221084. Off Map selection of Tuscan wines, Italian spumanti and www.signorvino.com. Open daily 9.30am-midnight. champagne, served in a Bohemian atmosphere Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. Map F5 Pegna With over 150 years behind it, this shop has become part of Florentine history. Just steps from the Duomo, a historic drugstore with all kinds of Tuscan, Italian and international specialities: rare cheeses, salumi and prosciutti. Plus a vast choice of wines and imported products like spices, coffee, tea and chocolate. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. pegna.it. Via dello Studio, 8. T: 055 282701. Map G3

FIRENZEYESPLEASE.COM STREET FOOD

Antico Vinaio If when walking along Via de’ Neri you happen PHOTO © to come across a queue of people with a hungry air, there can be no doubt: they are waiting for a schiacciata at the Antico Vinaio. Just a stone’s throw from Piazza della Signoria, it is considered among the best street food available in Italy: its filled schiacciata and boards of Tuscan cured Cantinetta Antinori, a taste of Tuscany meats, accompanied by a glass of Chianti, are eaten at the counter, on stools or walking around The full range of Marchesi Antinori wines, accompanied by seasonal Tuscan dishes, in the unique setting Florence. €. www.allanticovinaio.com. Via Dei Neri of a 15th-century palace. By Sophia Bertoli 65/r. T: 055 2382723. Map G5 Cucciolo PASTRY SHOP Bar-patisserie in Via del Corso, ocated on the ground floor of the old family you can taste the full range of the company’s famed in the city for more than 40 years for its home, Palazzo Antinori, one of the most wines, by the bottle or the glass, accompanied “bomboloni” (fried doughnuts) baked on the spot, Genuine food for all tastes important examples of mid-15th-century by culinary specialities, prevalently Tuscan, many dunked in sugar and filled with cream or chocolate. L Worth a visit just for the show: the freshly made architecture, Cantinetta Antinori reflects the of which are based on products originating bomboloni are carried up from the kitchen on a at the Central Market Antinori passion for wine and local traditions. from the family’s various estates in Tuscany and ramp in full sight before depositing them directly Where is it possible to taste Sicilian specialities, vegan dishes, Chianina hamburgers, sushi, fresh One of the world’s oldest family firms, they have Umbria. Precisely because the key ingredients in the sugar. Open Tues-Thurs 7.30am-10pm; Fri- ADVERTORIALpasta, dishes from the Tuscan tradition such as tripe and lamprey, high-quality meats, pizzas, been producing wine for more than six hundred are seasonal, the menu is made up of just a few Sun 7.30am-midnight. Via del Corso, 25/r. fried food specials and artisan ice-creams, all under one roof? At the Central Market in Florence, T: 055 287727. Map G3 years. Over 26 generations they have established (very good) items: for example you can begin a temple of taste located right in the city centre and housed on the first floor of the historic a closer and closer connection with wine and with fettunta (grilled garlic bread) with kale, Pescepane covered market of San Lorenzo. In this sort of modern agora for gourmets, in addition to the its rhythms, earning them an international followed by a plate of Cinta Senese cold cuts, then FISH Panini, fish & chips, mozzarella in fried craft shops where you can shop in the usual way, you can also take a seat at the large convivial reputation as one of the principal wine producers grilled Tuscan sirloin steak with roast potatoes. bread, fried fish … all some of the specialities tables and enjoy one of the many specialities that are prepared there on the spot. In a territory of this itinerant Street Seafood food truck. The with several estates in Italy and abroad. And for dessert, what could be more Tuscan such as that of Florence, which is famous for the genuineness and quality of its dishes, the aim delicious and creative menu varies each day Just inside the main entrance to the palace is than a slice of castagnaccio (chestnut flour cake), depending on the availability of ingredients, has been to protect consumers to the maximum: all the operators at the Central Market in fact the door of the Cantinetta, where guests are accompanied by the right wine naturally? using sustainable and high quality produce, often sign a quality specification whereby all the dishes prepared inside the market are cooked using welcomed by the symbol of the Arte dei Vinattieri organic, with vegetables of the season and home- only the raw materials on sale at the market itself. The market also holds food and wine tasting (Vintner’s Guild), which the first member of the >> Piazza Antinori, 3. T: 055 292234 made sauces. Apart from the great food there courses, book presentations and events of all kinds. www.mercatocentrale.it is the visual appeal of the historic Italian Apecar Antinori family joined in 1385. In the restaurant www.cantinetta-antinori.com

50 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 51 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM TUSCAN CUISINE fish that arrives daily from Viareggio. The quality for experimentation in the mix of flavours and raw materials are cooked in the essential way, as in textures. €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 13 Gobbi Trattoria the Catalana and paccheri alla Trabaccolara and the 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1 In the heart of the old centre just steps away from main courses based on the day’s catch. €€€. the Lungarno, the Trattoria 13 Gobbi occupies www.fuordacqua.it. Via Pisana, 37/r. T: 055 222299. Latini (Il) a historic building where it offers authentic Map A3 Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella reinterpretations of the most genuine Tuscan highlighted in the Michelin Guide. Besides recipes. Among the specialities of the house, IO Osteria Personale bistecca alla fiorentina, there are pork chops rigatoni (served in a traditional stoneware tureen) In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as well as roast beef and the inevitable bistecca alla fiorentina. €€. still conserves the charm of the most authentic or lamb. Also available are Florentine tripe and www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria-13-gobbi. Via del Florence, surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending Porcellana, 9/r. T: 055 284015. Map D3 walls, a modern tavern that has a preference for on the season. The cantina is well stocked with the products of the territory, reinterpreting them the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as Benedicta in an innovative way. Among the titbits are crispy well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to vitel toné, ravioli of wild salmon, whipped cream, Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3 which the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a ginger, herring caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw pearl hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria red shrimps and seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io- Locale Firenze Novella, inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and osteriapersonale.it. Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient Tuscan cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, 9331341. Map B4 building where by just descending a few steps with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients you can travel - like in a time machine - from the that changes every two months depending on the La Ménagère Renaissance to 13th-century Florence, to the wine season. Open 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, cellars that conserve Roman remains. It is possible late April to October you can dine in the romantic combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated flower garden. €€€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the cocktails, accompanied by small snacks, or stay for Benedetta 12/r. T:055 2645429. Map C2 restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable dinner with dishes from the tradition revisited in a prices, combining traditional dishes based contemporary vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via Bordino Trattoria strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant delle Seggiole, 12/r. T: 055 9067188. Map H3 High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5

Cammillo A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. Map E5 A stellar experience of the past Cibreo Trattoria Traditional dishes cooked in the slow time-honoured Two chefs combine their very different but complementary creative talents and backgrounds at the manner, rustic atmosphere with large friendly Winter Garden by Caino, which has recently been awarded one Michelin star. By Chiara Zaccarelli tables, also outdoors in summer. The menu is packed with regional delicacies, imaginatively re-invented: insalata di trippa, minestra di pane, polenta all’olio novello, passata di pesce, stuffed Gucci & Bottura, e is Michele Griglio, from Turin, with international ideas, energy and innovation rabbit. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as value a wealth of experience behind him in being the distinguishing characteristics. for money. €€€. www.cibreo.com. Via de’ Macci, fashion and cuisine H some of the most prestigious kitchens Examples are the lobster, topinambour and 122/r. Map L3 Massimo Bottura, the three-Michelin-star Italian chef, arrives in Florence with Gucci Osteria, of Italy and the UK. She is Valeria Piccini, mandarin or wholewheat hare ravioli, foie gras Da Burde inside the Gucci Garden, a new space for Florentine fashion brands. Located in the historic two-Michelin-star chef and owner, together and black truffles, or the more traditional tripe The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, Palazzo della Mercanzia, in addition to the tavern, Gucci Garden also hosts a boutique of with her husband, of the restaurant “Da Caino” and lampredotto which – believe it or not – has and the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with unique edition products, an auditorium and an exhibition area. The creative liaison between chicken livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, in Montemerano, in the province of Grosseto. a very delicate taste. The sweets, which look Gucci and Bottura celebrates two things Italy is very much renowned for: fashion and fine and ribollita. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide In 2013 they began a fruitful collaboration in as though they were laid on the plate by an as excellent value for money, the atmosphere has cuisine. Head of the team at the tavern is Colombian chef Ana Karime Lopez Kondo, wife tandem which led to the Winter Garden By abstract expressionist, are a genuine triumph remained that of the early 1900’s, as has the food, of Bottura’s sous chef, Taka Kondo. In other words: an explosive blend of flavours ranging Caino winning one Michelin star after only of colours, flavours and unusual textures, such simple but rich in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, from Italy to the Orient, passing through Colombia, and then all over the world. The menu with Tuscan and Piedmontese wines but also one year. Located inside the sumptuous hotel as the orange-olive oil emulsion, goat,s milk therefore benefits from all these contaminations and offers cosmopolitan titbits such as the French, including some fine champagne. €€€. www. St. Regis Florence, the restaurant is a genuine ice-cream and Peruvian false pepper. vinodaburde.com. Via Pistoiese, 154. “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese steamed bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, or marinated winter garden from a bygone era, with art déco T: 055 317206. Off Map Adriatic palamita with tortilla or fried aubergines in shiso sauce. But there are also tortellini in interior and enormous cristal chandeliers. >> Winter Garden by Caino cream of parmigiano reggiano cheese, carciofi alla giudia and Chianina hot dog. Fuor d’acqua The culinary fare is faithful to the local c/o Hotel St. Regis Florence The cuisine of the Tuscan tradition also includes fish Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura. Piazza della Signoria, 10. Map F4 territory and tradition, but with the help Piazza Ognissanti,1. T: 055 27163770 dishes. And in this restaurant in the historic centre www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura of top quality raw materials it is open to www.wintergardenbycaino.com you can find the true taste of the sea thanks to the

52 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 53 DINING DINING Top hotel restaurants

Tradition, innovation and creativity: Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, 16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most Se•Sto on Arno Where® highlights some culinary among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 destinations to whet your appetite made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also www.westinflorence.com in several top hotels in Florence. locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant offers international dishes. Local flavours and seasonal products for a By Jasmine Piazza occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it Ristorante La Loggia unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor moves poolside to the winter garden. c/o Belmond Villa San Michele of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by Relais Le Jardin www.belmond.com sweeping picture windows that make the most of c/o Hotel Regency This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the the unique position and breathtaking view over Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 visit just for its magnificent position looking over the city. www.regency-hotel.com Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities and classic Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge Italian dishes. Villa La Vedetta mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens c/o Villa La Vedetta onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa www.villalavedettahotel.com dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 Just moments away from the Piazzale such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking Hostaria Bibendum fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused highest quality. famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products Borgo San Jacopo sophisticated ambiance of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, c/o Hotel Lungarno an aristocratic 18th-century palace, recently renovated and Trattoria al fresco. Ristorante La Chiostrina antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 and restored to its former splendour. c/o Bernini Palace fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and options too. www.borgosanjacopo.com Irene Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Hostaria Bibendum c/o Hotel Savoy hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are Winter Garden by Caino Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant c/o Helvetia & Bristol Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 One of the most elegant and sophisticated flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, egg, c/o The Saint Regis Florence is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 www.roccofortehotels.com restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan dishes. Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using www.starhotelscollezione.com Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle www.wintergardenbycaino.com fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century building with an extraordinary collection of art Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Peter Brunel, accompanied by collector wines palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred from a cantina of 900 labels. a penchant for local producers and ingredients. Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Flora & Fauno fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local Piccini and executive chef Michele Griglio. Their c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi and seasonal products. menu shines an innovative spotlight on the Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honey- wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from www.hotelvillesullarno.com lacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic Facing the river and immersed in the lovely with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with c/o JK Place Firenze Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 and lampredotto to more refined proposals offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country www.jkplace.com like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas Il Conventino a Marignolle Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically eyes and palate, in particular their original take on in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining tiramisù. the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. times sticking to tradition. wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, La Cucina del Salviatino Golden Restaurant vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes c/o Il Salviatino Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 seasonal products from the estate or the nearby www.salviatino.com www.goldentowerhotel.it countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump links to the local territory and the seasons, with a card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of Il Palagio prevalence of meat courses, though there is no the ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic Intimate and refined atmosphere, with high class Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero furnishings and fittings. www.ilpalagioristorante.it food miles. A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside Gourmet Restaurant and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant Le Bistrot c/o Sina Villa Medici whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional c/o Villa Cora Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 www.sinahotels.com ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine www.villacora.it Tuscan specialities in a fabulous setting. A mix with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park of culinary tradition and fancy comprising types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic reinventions of fine Tuscan cuisine, in the 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant Gourmet Restaurant

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Bottega del Buon Caffè Il Palagio Ora d’Aria Borgo San Jacopo

In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with Winter Garden by Caino its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are seven other Florentine dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds c/o Hotel Saint Regis of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 Piazza Ognissanti, 1 restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. T: 055 27163770 By Sophia Bertoli www.wintergardenbycaino.com La Leggenda dei Frati Steeped in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the in Villa Bardini (Costa San Giorgio) Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Winter Garden by Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a Caino has come about from the creative liaison Borgo San Jacopo Enoteca Pinchiorri T: 055 0680545 between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef c/o Hotel Lungarno Via Ghibellina, 87 www.laleggendadeifrati.it Michele Griglio. Their menu brings the territory’s Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r T: 055 242757 Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa great cuisine back to the limelight in an innovative T: 055 281661 enotecapinchiorri.it San Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda way, with elements from every part of the globe, www.borgosanjacopo.com How do you manage to be honoured with dei Frati. A breathtaking view over Florence and ranging from classic Tuscan dishes for strong Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants on the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which refined proposals, such lobster tail on topinambour Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, in this case too draws its inspiration from the local and mandarin cream. Also the desserts, particularly In this case the winning recipe is one that blends it comes from the winning combination of prime tradition, with a propensity for quality meat (the the ’Diversamente Tiramisù’, are a joy for the eyes creativity, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet boiled sausages and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), and the taste buds. in sea water or Bresse rooster and octopus are without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary but also for vegetables picked directly from the Winter Garden by Caino an example of this), all washed down with wines tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an restaurant’s own vegetable and herb garden and chosen from a cellar of 900 labels. You can opt unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized for the hand-made bread using flour from ancient for the tasting menu (the potato-based one is labels, along with others that are little known but grains. unmissable) or à la carte. equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century Ora d’Aria Bottega del Buon Caffè Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a Via dei Georgofili 11/r Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r delight for the senses. T: 055 20016 9 T: 055 5535677 www.oradariaristorante.com www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Il Palagio An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. Zero food miles products gathered from the organic c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in Borgo Pinti, 99 he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s the Florentine countryside, meat reared by local T: 055 2626450 throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that farms and fresh fish. These are the strong points of www.ilpalagioristorante.it impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at the Bottega del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s shadow of the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef environment with tables both indoors and recipes but tending towards a more creative Antonello Sardi proposes a cuisine based on the use outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can of seasonal ingredients, with a predilection for herbs proposal that looks to the Italian and regional delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon and spices to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the tasting menus include gems such as amberjack of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and "tapas" formula allows you to try a selection of small served in three ways (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts home-made cappelletti with pigeon, butter and Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French La Leggenda dei Frati Enoteca Pinchiorri thyme. of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times labels and a highly select menu of beers.

56 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 57 DINING DINING

Opera Momoyama Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few One of Florence’s historic Japanese restaurants, steps from Santa Maria Novella Station, the Opera where alongside the classic sushi and sashimi restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian there are rolls with creative combinations, soups, Historic cellars for foodies The “fiorentina” and the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary raw meats and fish, chicken teriyaki, udon and traditions. In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, other hot dishes, in the tradition of the Rising Sun. with a music background of the most important Located over the Arno in the cool San Frediano Florence’s cantine, where in the past the well to do kept their wine, salumi and operas, you can taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla district, on weekdays at lunchtime it turns into a meats, haven’t lost their vocation as custodians of fine taste. The majority, with Fiorentina and the traditional Florentine dessert noodle bar. €€€€. www.ristorantemomoyama.it. dining rooms located beneath street level, are still called “buca”, although ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar deserves a special Borgo S. Frediano, 10. T: 055 291840. Map D4 mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; closed on Sun. some have become proper restaurants, with menus (and prices) more suited to Rooster Firenze €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso Finiguerra, 9. NEW OPENING A new arrival in the Rooster international visitors, while others still offer simple, authentic Florentine home T: 055 294447. Map C2 cooking. (C.Z.) Buca San Giovanni family, which already boasts one American- Osteria Badalì style bar in the city. The concept is that of the know quality doesn’t come cheap. www.bucalapi. Fiaschetteria Nuvoli - Just a few steps from Piazza Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, restaurant/cocktail bar, just a few steps from com. Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Duomo is an obligatory destination for anyone San Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the Piazza della Repubblica, serving classic American who has ever wondered what Florence’s old wine traditions of the past, all about long cooking meals such as hamburgers, ribs and BBQ, using Buca Mario - For years ordinary folk have rubbed cellars were really like in the past. Open from 8.30 times and essentials, starting with the study of old prime Tuscan ingredients, preferably organically shoulders with famous names beneath the bare in the morning until evening, it serves typical cooking texts found on the second-hand book sourced. €. www.roosterfirenze.com. Via Porta brick ceilings of Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver croutons, stalls and based above all on homemade pasta Rossa, 63/r. T:055 2645006. Map F4 and traditional soups, as well as pork products. Florentine cuisine (although you can still request a cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken or brains, Buca Mario private room for up to ten people in classic ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast porchetta. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 PIZZA 16th-century Florentine style). The bistecca alla There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, also 2264422. Map H6 O’Munaciello fiorentina is excellent, as is the ribollita or pappardelle available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of Touch Bistrò Toscano Housed in a 17th-century monastery in the historic with Maremma boar ragù. www.bucamario.com. T: 055 239 6616. the most iconic dishes in Florence Three young entrepreneurs who met over the Santo Spirito quarter, O’Munaciello recreates the Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r T: 055 214179. cuisine. But be careful: to recognize hobs of the hotelier institute have made their atmosphere of a Naples street, complete with Ristorante Buca dell’Orafo - A few yards from Ponte the original and tell it apart from the dream a reality by opening this bistro that favours hanging washing and masks typical of Neapolitan Buca Poldo - A few yards from Piazza della Signoria Vecchio, in an old goldsmith’s workshop inside the hundreds of impostors, there are the use of seasonal ingredients selected from Commedia dell’arte. Besides wood oven pizzas, Buca dell’Orafo and Ponte Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic walls of a 13th century palace, is the restaurant Buca a few tips you need to know. the nearby market of Sant’Ambrogio in the here you can try other traditional Campania Tuscan dishes including ribollita, pappa al dell’Orafo. Traditional Tuscan dishes and menus neighbourhood of the same name. The menu, dishes, with products from small producers and pomodoro, fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a that vary depending on the season testify to the Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual which gives a touch of freshness to the Tuscan consortiums situated along the coast. Every Antica Mescita San Niccolò - Ever wanted to eat few forays into other regional cuisines. Although the quality of the ingredients. Don’t miss the ribollita, the tradition, proposes, among other things, ravioli di Wednesday night there’s live music (Neapolitan). lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque crypt? In Florence majority of the courses are meat based, some fish maltagliati (flat, irregular offcuts of pasta), autumn with unwritten rules that the visitor ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, but €. www.munaciello.com. Via Maffia 31/r. you can, at the Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which also dishes are also available. The kitchen is open on two mushrooms and taglierini with fresh spring peas. needs to know to avoid falling foul also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. T: 055 287198. Map D5 used to serve as a customs post for wine originating sides, so that diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucadellorafo.com. Via dei Girolami, 28/r. f the restaurant owner, paying over Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3 from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is excellent and www.bucapoldo.com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/R. T: 055 213619. the odds and to make sure they get Pizza Man predominately Tuscan and the food also reflects the T: 055.239.6578. the real thing. Tuscani 3 (I) Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan season and the local territory, with dishes such as If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, bistecca alla Buca San Giovanni red meat), you must not miss this steakhouse gluten-free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as from a specific cut of a young Chianina fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just a few. Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic and delicatessen that is very famous in the city. the traditional variety. Now those with a food www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, 60/r. T: 055 restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby cow, a part of the loin near the backbone Located in the heart of the historic centre, a few intolerance or special dietary needs don’t have to 2342836. Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, which has a T-bone in the middle. steps from Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously go without a tasty pizza. €. www.pizzaman.it. Via it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation It should be grilled at a very high offers the typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also dell’Agnolo 105/107r. T: 055 2480200. Map H4 Buca Lapi - Buca Lapi is one of Florence’s oldest venue and countless notables from Florence and temperature, so that a fine crust forms selections of Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or eating places. Crafted out of the wine cellars of the elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this steak tartare and hamburger made rigorously with Pizzaiuolo (Il) Renaissance Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves traces vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as dish depends on the cooking: the meat Chianina meat. €€. http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Just steps from the Sant’ Ambrogio market, this Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 285356. Map F4 is one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again of over a century of history thanks to the meticulous ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al must be brown on the outside but red, restoration of the internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also the pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not Zeb particularly popular with lovers of the real fiorentina, stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as quality in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo but the other local Tuscan dishes are worth trying bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or cooked through. This is the first vital rule: Campania. The rest of the menu also follows and the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild boar with linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza a fiorentina must be eaten rare. Neapolitan tradition, with first courses of fish and the Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional polenta. The bill won’t be particularly easy on the San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 local desserts such as babà and pastiera. €. www. HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms Tuscan dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, pocket, especially if you go for the steak, but as we ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Buca Poldo thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 lampredotto, meat balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny Map I3 kgs, although bigger steaks are easily place, the diners eat at the bar, like a delicatessen available. And here is another sore point. (actually, its former identity). There is a large Pizzeria Spera At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina selection of Italian wines, with a special focus on One of Florence’s favourite pizzeria’s even won by weight. An average price to be sure of small local producers. €€. www.zebgastronomia. the world’s pizza championship a few years ago. specialities, including of course the fiorentina. If Via Reginaldo Giuliani, 43/r. T: 388 7575928. Lungarno23 getting the real thing is around 50 euros com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 2342864. Map H6 This simple and intimate little place just outside you want to try something more adventurous you Off Map In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, a kilo. the old centre serves a light crispy pizza with a this restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat can’t go wrong with the pork liver confit with kale Marione Trattoria INTERNATIONAL & choice of different types of bread dough and a hamburgers, which are certified with the I.G.P. and Boretto onions. €€. www.lortone.it. Piazza WITH. The traditional accompaniment is The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in full range of quality toppings. Excellent value for mark and come from small local farms. Forget the Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 0804. Map L4 ETHNIC CUISINE the historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible usually cannellini beans, washed down money. €. www.pizzeriaspera.it. Via della Cernaia, image of fast food, because here the hamburger with a glass of Chianti. 9/r. T: 055 495286. Off Map Maccheroncino (Il) to taste the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine Koko is accompanied by fresh ingredients, hand-made Those who don’t eat meat in Florence might surrounded by barrel vaults and baked brick WHERE. Here are four restaurants where Sophisticated chic and fine Japanese cuisine off sesame seed bread, freshly fried potatoes and Santarpia encounter a few difficulties, but luckily there floors. Ribollita, taglierini with truffle, bistecca alla the main tourist circuits. Besides the classic raw browned onions. €€. www.lungarno23.it. Lungarno you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. In a room decorated with blue and brown hand- are also some excellent fish restaurants. Il fiorentina and Tuscan cured meats are among the fish dishes (vast selection of tartare, carpacci, Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. Map G6 illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. painted tiles, the wood oven turns out pizzas sushi and sashimi) Koko’s particular speciality is Maccheroncino is a small seafood bistro located most popular dishes. If you go at the weekend it com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) made with choice, slow-rising flours, tomatoes is advisable to book in advance, because there is teppanyaki – various ingredients cooked on an L’Ortone outside the tourist circuits, in the Rifredi and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ from Vesuvius and mozzarella from Campania neighbourhood. Fish dishes according to usually a long queue of people waiting outside. iron griddle. In the private room guests can also Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie ristorante-perseus-firenze). cheese makers. All accompanied by craft beers or district, opposite the charming street market, availability and typical products of the cuisine €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria-marione. dine on tatami. €€€€. www.kokorestaurant.it. (C.Z.) wines from small producers. €. www.santarpia.biz. the menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with of Le Marche are prepared here with fresh and Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 Piazza F. Ferrucci, 4/5 r. T: 055 6587428. Off Map Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c.T: 055245829. Map L3 a focus on traditional first courses and grilled seasonal ingredients. €€. www.ilmaccheroncino.it.

58 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 59

ADVERTORIAL

FLORENTINE FOOD TERMS CIBREO RISTORANTE

A restaurant that moves to the rhythm ’Lampre…’ what’s that? Florence of the seasons: from tomato sauce in has a multitude of culinary summer to cabbage and garlic dips in winter, since 1979 the focal point specialities of peasant origin of Cibreo’s fare has been an array of that are still very popular full-flavour historic dishes. Outstanding wine list. The homely atmosphere of the in the city today. Some are dining room and friendly service are a so niche as to be unknown vital part of the reason the restaurant has become such an institution in outside Florence, let alone to Florence. Closed on Monday. foreigners. So we’ve decided to put together a glossary of Florentine food terms to help www.cibreo.com you find your way among the Via del Verrocchio, 8/r. soups, animal parts you never T: 055 2341100. thought you could eat and distinctive eateries. By Chiara Zaccarelli L’ORTONE

L’Ortone is in Piazza Ghiberti, opposite Buca Lapi the charming Sant’Ambrogio street market. The menu draws inspiration from Tuscan cuisine (painstakingly BUCA - to export it to France and it seems she was ’Ribollita’ literally means boiled several times. revisited) and offers a wide choice No, this is not something to eat, but so fond of it that it gave her indigestion a The name derives from the fact that in the of antipasti, first courses and grilled somewhere you are likely to find all the foods number of times. old days peasants used to make a large pot specialities, including of course the listed above. Buche were the underground and serve it, heated up, over a number of bistecca alla fiorentina. Opened in 2014, wine cellars of Florence’s wealthier homes. LAMPREDOTTO days, each time tastier than before. it has always relied on young but expert Today many have been converted into This is Florentine street food par excellence. and professional staff. A good mix of basement taverns, often conserving the But watch out, it’s not for weak stomachs. SCHIACCIATA elegance and sobriety. Open daily. original stone vaulted ceilings. This is where Actually it’s a cow’s fourth stomach, known This simple focaccia baked in a wood oven you’ll find the most authentic Tuscany country as the ’abomaso’, cooked in a herb broth and and dressed with olive oil and salt is a great cooking, often accompanied by a flask of wine. most commonly served in a panino soaked favourite with Florentines, who eat it on its A rather rustic environment with a warm and in the broth or topped with the local parsley- own or stuffed with salumi and cheeses, www.lortone.it friendly atmosphere where you can go just for based green sauce. Historically a poor man’s either as a quick lunch or substantial snack. Piazza L. Ghiberti, 87/r. a glass of the simple house wine (see page 58). dish, it is still very popular in Florence today Again, like many traditional Florentine recipes, T: 055 2340804. thanks to the numerous open-air kiosks it is based on a horror of wasting any left over CANTUCCI known as "lampredottai", doing a roaring bread dough. In Florence you’ll find it at any This is one of the best-known cake recipes trade with Florentines as well as tourists who baker’s, but of course everyone has their own in Tuscan cuisine. The finger-shaped almond can’t wait to try this speciality, accompanied preference: soft and well oiled, crisp and salty, OLIO biscuits are made by slicing up a long roll by the obligatory glass of wine. or made with ancient grains. Just try it to of baked dough while still hot. The dough decide which is your favourite! In the historic Palazzo Capponi, at the is made with flour, sugar, eggs, butter and PAPPA COL POMODORO heart of the old d’Oltrarno quarter, Olio presents itself as an innovative raw almonds, not toasted or shelled. Tuscans On the face of it this is just another variant and stylish outlet for fine wines and normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a fortified of bread and tomatoes. But until you’ve tried Ribollita oils and gastronomy in general. local wine called Vin Santo made from dried this soup made of stale bread (unsalted), Whether for a quick snack or business grapes. You can find them in any bakery or tomatoes, garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan lunch, a theme evening or everyday local foods shop. olive oil, salt and pepper, you’ll never guess shop for fresh products, the bistrot how good it is. Everyone loves this tasty, provides a distinctive and sophisticated CIBREO genuine dish, including the kids. So much atmosphere. Closed on Monday. A dish for strong stomachs, Cibreo is a so there’s even a popular children’s song all typical main course of Florentine “poor about it. cuisine” containing liver, chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice and onion. Even RIBOLLITA though presented like that it seems to be an Another delicious country dish typical of www.oliorestaurant.it inauspicious mixture, it is famous for having Florence and the whole of central Tuscany Palazzo Capponi – Via Santo Spirito, 4. been one of the favourite dishes of Caterina is ribollita, a soup made of stale bread, kale T: 055 2658198. de’ Medici, who attempted - unsuccessfully and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or cannellini).

60 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 61 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte Vecchio. www. or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. (Santo Spirito district). T: 055 APERITIVI signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. 0457163. Map E5 Map F5 Chiaroscuro Foody Farm Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, Three Sixty “The right food from the right places” is the motto Florentines today are attracted by the original and From May to September the Grand Hotel Minerva, of this little restaurant where the quality and genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and aperitifs next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its magnificent traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An served in a popular bar-cafe furnished with a retro panoramic terrazza with swimming pool to outside original and genuine light lunch, with the option touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro.it. Via del guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www.grandhotelminerva. of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3 com. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. T: 055 27230. including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina Map E2 and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am till Easy living midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce district. Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” Zoe www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r. T: 055 (little beach), its location is quite singular: this strictly Cocktails and apericena accompanied by hookah, 242327. Map H5 summer-only bar is built right on the river-bed of in a bar with essential modern furnishings and soft the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, from where lighting. For years a favourite with the younger crowd, Odeon Bistrot patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif with a stunning always a lively atmosphere in the trendy San Niccolò Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful view of Ponte Vecchio, often with live music. There district. www.facebook.com/zoebarfirenze. Via dei little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white is always a cooling breeze, a big plus in a sweltering Renai, 13. T: 055 243111. Map H6 columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from Florence summer. www.easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and Poggi. T: 055 2341112. Map I6 BRUNCH traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura Ditta Artigianale cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, 8/r. The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in a contest T: 055 215654. Map E4 brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, held in Melbourne in 2013 involving competitors surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, from 60 countries to find the world’s best coffee Procacci aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com. barista. Back in Florence, he opened this bistrot This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4 which, besides the exceptional coffee, serves a institution, and not only in Florence, especially for its truffle-based specialities and impeccable selection Il Locale brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) ranging from of wines. Combines a gourmet food shop and Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon and French toast. wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere, with delicious located in a small street not far from the Duomo. Designer atmosphere. www.dittaartigianale.it. Via snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm (Sunday from 11am Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce district). • T: 055 2741541 snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3

Il Rifrullo In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo. com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6

Moyo Aperitifs and light dinner in a locale that offers international cuisine, cocktails and DJ set in a modern Flying over a unique panorama and stylish setting, a landmark of Florentine nightlife. www.moyo.it. T: 055 2479738. Via dei Benci, 23/r. Map Let yourselves be enchanted by full panoramic views of Tuscany’s most enchanting sites with hot-air balloon H4 tours by Balloon in Tuscany. By Giulia Minero Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue that combines modern furnishings and frescoed ceilings. The sight of the Arno at dusk always attracts a crowd. t may be difficult to visit all the main places your itinerary to the maximum, at the same time celebrate an important event surrounded by a www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Corsini 14/r. T: 055 of interest in Tuscany if you have little time enjoying the exhilaration of flight, the beauty unique atmosphere. 289810. Map E4 available. If you happen to only be in Florence of unprecedented scenery and the discovery I Rooftop Bar La Terrazza for a weekend, why not opt for a panoramic of historical and cultural landmarks guided by >> For information on itineraries and Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio tour from a different perspective, perhaps pilots who are experts on the locations. The bookings, visit www.balloonintuscany.com furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the in a hot-air balloon? Balloon in Tuscany, a slow movement of the hot-air balloon makes medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of the ADVERTORIAL company recognised Balloon in Tuscany tours Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel.com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4 The Florentine Maggio Musicale by the Associazione The ideal perspective ideal for photography The Florentine Maggio Musicale [Musical May] is an important annual cultural event, Aerostatica Toscana, to surprise lovers, especially in the Se·Sto on Arno which takes place in Florence in May and in the weeks that follow (this year the programme The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs every offers its guests early light of dawn, when extends to mid-July). Established in 1933, the Maggio was Italy’s first musical festival and with splendid photos evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large terrazze provide itineraries lasting old castles, Renaissance a 360° view over the marvels of Florence. www. since then, with the exception of the forced hiatus during the Second World War, it has between 45 and 90 minutes flying over some Tuscan villas, ancient towns, towers, water westinflorence.com. Piazza Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. offered high-quality operas, concerts, dance shows and theatre events. The festival is of the region’s most unmissable destinations, courses and vineyards are tinges with countless Map C3 associated with a resident orchestra, which in its history has had the honour of being including cities of art and charming landscapes. delicate shades. Thanks to the different sizes of Signorvino conducted by the best maestros in the world. After Riccardo Muti, on the podium from Various launch points – located in Florence, the baskets, the hot-air balloons can host from This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines (more 1969 to 1981, the orchestra and the festival now live under the artistic direction of Zubin Siena and San Gimignano, as well as in the heart 4 to 10 passengers, but they are also available than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, aperitifs and Mehta. For the programme and further information: www.operadifirenze.it of the Chianti hills – enable you to personalize for romantic flights for couples, perhaps to snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other regional bites.

62 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 63 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT

till 8pm). Historic venue in the heart of Florence. Teatro Goldoni editions of World Refugees Day. www.visarnoarena. www.procacci1885.it. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand III of it. Parco delle Cascine (approx. two kilometres 211656. Map E3 Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity to Palazzo from the Central Station of Santa Maria Novella). Pitti it soon became the court theatre. Oval-shaped, Off Map Teatro del Sale SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY with 80 boxes distributed over four orders, the Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by theatre experienced a period of abandonment. After A region rich in natural thermal springs, Tuscany offers nothing but an Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly WELLNESS a lengthy restoration, it returned to its original pomp patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant (see listing embarrassment of choice from among the numerous structures spread out across the in 1998, with a historical design by Italian director and Bené SPA in “Dining”) – and co-founder, president and artistic territory, particularly in the areas of Siena and Grosseto. In addition to the famous actor Luca Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa This 5-star luxury Villa Cora spa is found on the director Maria Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves Maria, 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6 ground floor of Villino Eugenia and connected to and historic Montecatini and Chianciano, full-blown health towns, there are more a highly original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks the main hotel complex by an underground tunnel. “discreet” structures, often associated with resorts, offering a different experience of at a fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and Teatro del Maggio It comprises a tepidarium, leisure area, small gym, Bagni San Filippo relaxation and wellbeing. Here are some suggestions. (E.P.) Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), The Teatro del Maggio is in the centre, beside the sauna, hammam and three large private cabins for dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed price of old city walls, next to the historic Stazione Leopolda personalised treatments. The crowning glories are 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. Via dei Macci, 111/r. (see listing). The garden that welcomes visitors is two prestigious partnerships: tailored face treatment (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2001492. Map I3 Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after the founder of the products by beauty guru Sarah Chapman; and Bagni San Filippo www.adler-thermae.com. Strada di Bagno metabolism of the blood vessels. Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina and the Florentine the body range from the historic Officina Profumo A small town not far from the slopes of Vignoni, 1. San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). Grotta Giusti, www.grottagiustispa.com. CONCERT VENUES Maggio Musicale. Symphony concerts and operas Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, founded in Mount Amiata, famous for millennia for its T: 0577 889001. Via Grotta Giusti, 1411 - Monsummano are performed in a contemporary space in a large Florence in 1612. www.villacora.it. Viale Machiavelli, & THEATRES wood-covered hall. www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. 18. T: 055 228790. Off Map sulphur waters, which were used by the Terme (Pistoia). T: 0572 90771. Teatro Comunale Gui, 1. Off Map Etruscans, and for the white calcareous Castello di Velona Firenze Number Nine The Teatro Comunale di Firenze is the city’s largest deposits that form the small, spectacular An 11th-century fortress transformed into a San Casciano dei Bagni Stazione Leopolda This 4-star spa presents itself as an “Urban theatre. Overall, it occupies approximately half a Inaugurated in 1848, it was Florence’s first railway Wellness Hotel” that claims to be “the only city hot water falls (48 °C) of the Fosso Bianco. residential villa in the Renaissance, the castle Classified among the “Most Beautiful block between corso Italia, via Magenta and via station: it was decommissioned, and today has centre spa under original 15th-century vaults.” Unlike the wellbeing and spa treatment - now a 5-star resort - is located on a hill Towns of Italy”, San Casciano stands on Solferino. The main theatre has seating for around become a sought-after venue for meetings, A 400-square metre spa offering a full range of 1800, but also part of the complex is a foyer called centre, access to this area is free of charge. overlooking the greenery of the Val d’Orcia. a hill immersed in the Siena countryside. conferences and various events. A versatile, treatments, open every day, also to outside guests, the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can hold a little under 600 Terme San Filippo, www.termesanfilippo. between Sant’Antimo and Montalcino. The Bagno Grande and the Bagno Bossolo multifunctional space, it has its name associated though the under 16’s are not admitted. Very well spectators. The name “Comunale” [Municipal] dates with the recent history of Italy, being the venue of known, among Florentines too, is the Arya Beauty it. Via San Filippo, 23. T: 0577 872982. B&B The indoor and outdoor swimming pools are ancient washtubs where it is possible back to 1933, when the Florentine Maggio Musicale the event that launched the career of Florentine & Comfort Zone, again linked to the hotel (but Il Fosso Bianco, Via San Filippo, 22. T: 392 (and the bathrooms of some of the rooms) to bathe freely, while there are indoor and was established (see entry), but the theatre itself politician Matteo Renzi. www.stazione-leopolda. closed on Tuesdays). www.firenzenumbernine.com. dates back to the second half of the 19th century. 3449596. Bagni San Filippo (Siena). use water from a nearby thermal spring outdoor baths, wellbeing treatments and a com. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. T: 055 212622. Via dei Conti, 9. T: 055 293777. Map F3 www.operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16. T: 055 27791. originating on Mount Amiata. splendid resort at Fonteverde, sheltered by Map A1 Map B2 Four Seasons SPA Bagno Vignoni Castello di Velona Resort Thermal SPA & a magical garden with views of Visarno Arena A Four Seasons standard spa right in the heart of Teatro Verdi This tiny ancient stone village has one Winery, www.castellodivelona.it. Località La Mount Amiata. It is located inside the Ippodromo Visarno Florence. Ten body treatment cabins, a spa suite, The largest "Italian-style" theatre in Tuscany is unique and unforgettable characteristic: Velona, Montalcino (Siena). T: 0577 839002. Fonteverde. www.fonteverdespa.com. racecourse, located in Florence in the Parco delle plus open-air pool. Exclusive treatments like the located in Florence, in the historic district of Santa Cascine. Surrounded by greenery and with seating Chianti massage and Tuscan cypress scrub are at its centre is Piazza delle Sorgenti, an Località Terme, 1 - San Casciano dei Bagni Croce, and hosts all genres of performance. for 60,000, the area is the favourite venue for major just the start of your wellness journey. Treatments ancient pool measuring 49x29 metres (not Grotta Giusti (Siena). T: 0578 57241. Inaugurated in 1854, since 2000 it has been owned by open-air events. Active since 2015, it has already for teens and children also available. The super- for bathing) where the spar waters are The spectacular Grotta Giusti, on the the Orchestra of Tuscany, which is based there. www. hosted, among others, concerts by David Gilmour, modern fitness centre is located in the quiet of teatroverdifirenze.it. Via Ghibellina, 99. T: 055 212320. collected, gushing out at a temperature of outskirts of Montecatini, is a natural cave Saturnia - Cascate del Mulino Massive Attack, Einsturzende Neubauten, Sting the Gherardesca Garden. www.fourseasons.com. Map H4 52 °C and shrouding the village in evocative that winds its way among stalactites and Among the most beautiful free thermal and Duran Duran, but also the 2015 and 2016 Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 26261. Map L1 steam during the cold months. stalagmites to a stretch of crystal clear baths in the world, the Cascate del Mulino Golden Beauty & SPA Albergo Le Terme, www.albergoleterme.it. water, the temperatures of which vary are small natural pools supplied by small This extremely stylish facility in the historic centre Piazza delle Sorgenti, 13. Bagno Vignoni di from 27°C to 34°C. Above all mud therapy waterfalls that form a unique, unrepeatable of Florence offers a Turkish bath, emotional showers, hydromassage, sauna and treatment San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 887150. and balneotherapy are practised there in environment. Next to them, the Terme di zone plus expert care and advice. Part of the 5-star Spa Resort Hotel Adler Thermae. baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the Saturnia complex has spring water pools, Golden Tower hotel, but also open to outside a wellbeing centre and a 5-star resort. guests as the beauty centre annex every day from Cascate del Mulino, www.cascate-del- midday till 8pm. www.goldentowerhotel.it. Piazza Strozzi, 11. T: 055 287860. Map F4 mulino.info. Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort, www.termedisaturnia.it. Il Villino SPA Località Follonata, Saturnia - Manciano A historic villa, completely renovated in 2014, the new Hotel Ville sull’Arno 5-star luxury boutique (Grosseto). T: 0564 600111. resort is very popular with Florentines. The Villino is a unique spa, studded with original details, Terme di Petriolo luxury materials, and hand-made decorations by The thermal baths are sited on a natural Florentine craftsmen, offering a wide range of spring in the Valley dell’Ombrone, along the treatments, from hydromassage to the ice cascade. www.planetariahotels.com. Lungarno C. Colombo, course of the River Farma. The waters, rich 1/3/5. T: 055 670971. Off Map in salts, gush out at a temperature of 43 °C

Ponte Vecchio Suites & SPA and are traditionally used to treat various This 4-star boutique hotel, recently renovated, has pathologies of the respiratory tracts. www. a spa reserved for the exclusive use of the guests termedipetriolo.it. Strada Provinciale di of each suite. www.pontevecchiosuites.com. Petriolo, Monticiano (Siena). Via De’ Belfredelli, 9. T: 0552 17379. Map E5 Petriolo Spa Resort, www.atahotels.it/ TEATRO DEL SALE San Firenze Suites & SPA hotel/petriolo-spa-resort. Località Bagni di Inaugurated in 2003, the Teatro is a cultural club, a place for socialization, relax and The 4-star San Firenze Suites & SPA in the city Petriolo, Frazione Pari, Civitella Paganico centre, has an internal spa for private use, expressly Bagno Vignoni entertainment. Here you can savour the best of local and Tuscan flavours by the Cibreo (Grosseto). T: 0577 1606059. designed for couples. Open winter and summer. cuisine. www.teatrodelsale.com www.sanfirenzesuites.com. Piazza di San Firenze, 3/A. T: 0552 85009. Map G4

64 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 65 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ALL CONTRIBUTIONS RELATED TO in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect MUSEUMS AND EVENTS ARE BY series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over one of the most important sculptural cycles in the 1000 paintings created between the 17th and 19th Elena Peverata world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s centuries and an important collection of self-portraits by great artists including Filippo Lippi, Rembrandt, Lifestyle & Culture David: the one on display in its original position is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria Velázquez, Delacroix and Ensor. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale Editor dell’Accademia (see "Museums"). Map F4-G4 degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 294883. Map E6-E5-F5-G5 Where® Italia Palazzo Vecchio Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat The symbol of wealth and power, the building of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest was inhabited by the Medici in the period of their synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is maximum splendour, then by the Habsburg-Lorraines one of the best known civic buildings in the world. and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The ATTRACTIONS Its imposing façade, abounding in history, the original architecture dates back to the 15th century charm of its magnificent courtyards and its precious and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The & MONUMENTS interiors (see "Museums") make it a site visited daily building is located Oltrarno (on the left bank of the Duomo and Cupola by hundreds of people. www.museicivicifiorentini. river), at the foot of Boboli Hill. It is from the latter that Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. the famous Boboli Gardens take their name; they are Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Map G4 one of the most important examples of Italian-style Today the religious building, whose official name is gardens in the world and are considered a genuine Ponte Vecchio “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms open-air museum on account of their admirable There has been a bridge at this point of the River of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St Paul’s architectural and landscaped layout and their Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, Cathedral in London. The most important artists of collection of sculptures, attracting approximately between floods and reconstructions, the official date the period participated in its creation (the bell tower 800 thousand visitors a year. Currently they are the of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as is by Giotto), while the famous multi-coloured marble site of four different museums: the Treasury of the 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted façade dates back to the 19th century. Brunelleschi’s Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery and the Royal greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art and the who used the river to dispose of their waste in a symbol known all over the world: it is possible to Museum of Fashion and Costume (see "Museums"). hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it climb to the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere (see became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths (See “Museums"). www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. "Museums"). www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. Map E6 there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this Battistero history, on prominent display on the bridge is a Piazzale Michelangelo Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with building that completes the considerably striking between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli its views seen all over the world in million of appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via postcards and reproductions. The design of the but its first official dating is at least in the 12th century. de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 square dates back to 1869, when Florence was It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous Corridoio Vasariano dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. artist, the square has bronze copies of some of The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting The outside is decorated with white marble from Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access to Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery (see period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe "Museums"); it then stretches along the Arno, over decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and del Poggi”, which start from piazza Poggi in the the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used neighbourhood of San Niccolò. Map I7 in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. San Miniato al Monte (See “Museums"). www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. FIRENZECARD A shimmering vision of elegance, the old Benedictine abbey has looked down on Florence from its Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 Campanile di Giotto heights for a thousand years, bestowing peace, wonder and a breathtaking view. By Elena Peverata 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of ar from the crowded city centre, on a has been wreathed in legends and mysteries place, come at 7 am (Mon-Sat) to take part in the the four main components of the complex of Santa high point with a magnificent romantic associated with its special symbology, such as morning lauds and mass, after which it is closed Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. Lined with view, stands one of the most beautiful the recurrence of the number 5 in the decor and until 9.30 am. www.sanminiatoalmonte.it white, red and green marble, like that adorning the F Cathedral, the majestic square-based bell tower, of Florence’s basilicas, San Miniato al Monte. structures, or the great zodiac wheel marble inlay designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing The delicate facade of geometric motifs in on the pavement in front of the central portal. no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you white and green marble, a sublime expression Also worth a visit is the Sacristy decorated with can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. of the Florentine Romanesque, is immediately a great fresco cycle on the Life of Saint Benedict www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. recognisable at the top of a tall monumental by Spinello Aretino (1387) and the tranquil T: 055 2302885. Map F3 staircase. Even more astonishing is the interior, monumental cemetery, the Porte Sante. Since Piazza della Signoria Firenzecard costs €72, allows access to 72 museums and is valid for 72 hours from where decorations in two-tone marble share 1018 a small community of Benedictine monks This is the central square of Florence, the seat of the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one the space alongside 14th-15th century frescoes, have lived in the adjacent monastery (not open to civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: is located at the centre of medieval Florence south the sumptuous gilded mosaic in the apse, and visitors) where they run a pharmacy in which you of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on the 13th-century inlaid pavement. At the end can find herbal remedies and pastry products Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over the Firenzecard circuit of the central nave is Michelozzo’s Renaissance made by the friars. the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio • Priority access to museums without needing to book Chapel of the Crucifix, in front of the crypt and You reach San Miniato al Monte by the road (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the • 72 hours available Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and raised presbytery. Ever since it was founded, climbing up from Piazzale Michelangelo. To www.firenzecard.it Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in 1013, the church of San Miniato al Monte immerse yourself in the near-mystic peace of the

66 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 67 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

San Miniato al Monte of “italic glories”. (See “Museums"). www. by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. (See Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, in via delle Porte santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 “Museums"). www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. miniated, dating from the 5th to the 19th century, Sante, stands the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, 2466105. Map H4 Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. in addition to papyruses and rare print editions. a medieval religious building situated at one of the Map F2 Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Closed Sat, Sun and Palazzo Pitti Museums Santa Maria Novella highest panoramic points in Florence. The most holidays. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici Library Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo spectacular access is gained via the monumental €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of MUSEUMS & flight of steps (which is not advisable, however, for 055 2937911. Map F2 reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation those with problems walking). The outside of the EXHIBITION SITES dates back to the end of the 13th century but work Cappella Brancacci church is decorated with green and white marble, on it continued for centuries, so the church, with Basilica di San Lorenzo The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del typical of Florentine Romanesque, while a 12th- its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a This is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, century mosaic decorates the central part of the harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance the oldest (see "Monuments&Attractions"), the house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is façade. The interior, which is unusual and of great styles. The church of Santa Maria Novella hosts current appearance of which is the result of the universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, radical renovation begun in 1418 by Giovanni di Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and original floors. www.sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio Bicci, founder of the Medici dynasty. The complex Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they Porte Sante, 34. T: 055 234 2731. Off Map and Paolo Uccello. (See “Museums"). www.smn.it. conserves key works by Brunelleschi, Donatello, were left unfinished and were eventually completed Michelangelo, miniated codices, sacred goldsmithery Mercato Centrale Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. Access and paintings from the 15th to the 20th century, and Built at the end of the 19th century in the period 055 219257. Map D2-E2 is permitted to the chapel by groups of a maximum is structured into the Basilica (with the Old Sacristy in which Florence was capital of Italy, the Central of 30 people and the stay time is 30 minutes. You Santo Spirito and the Treasure Museum), the Medici Chapels Market is a building of a certain architectural merit are advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa (which form a separate museum, see the relative located between piazza del Mercato Centrale and Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a indications) with the New Sacristy and the Museum, via dell’Ariento, via Sant’Antonino and via Panicale. Closed on Tues and 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 point of reference of the Augustinian order. The in the Laurentian Library (see entry). Open Mon-Sat The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, July, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price: Wed- church has given its name to the entire surrounding 10am-5pm. Sundays: from 1 March to 31 October the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Fri €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located 1.30pm-5.30pm. Closed: Sundays from 1 November Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. “Oltrarno”, that is, on the left bank of the river. to 29 February, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 10 and 2014, on the first floor of the historic covered market comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224- A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church 15 August, 8 and 25 December. Full ticket price: there has been a complex containing dozens of small 558-2382195. Map C5 was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi Basilica €6, Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www. restaurants, leisure activities and street food options, and conserves elegant and austere rationality in operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo Cappelle Medicee and this has now become a point of reference for its architectural plan. In the interior there is also a 9. T: 055 216634-214042. Map F2 Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines wooden crucifix carved by a young Michelangelo. museum, but their history is closely associated with and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del (See “Museums"). www.basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Basilica di Santa Croce that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they are Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 210030. Map D5 A splendid example of Tuscan Gothic (13th century), part (see entry). The museum consists of the New T: 055 2399798. Map F1 it owes its sober appearance, with wooden trusses Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards its San Lorenzo and terracotta floors, to the Franciscan order. The A palace for three dynasties, the Picture Gallery, established between Santa Croce sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Basilica, the cloisters, the Sacristy, the Pazzi Chapel Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built using this extraordinary building (see the 18th and 19th centuries by the Lorena Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of and the Museum of Opera are all part of the visitors’ and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Attractions&Monuments) is located in the family, includes the world’s largest Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by itinerary. Mention must be made in particular of the a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a Grand Dukes and their relatives are buried, and the Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth sepulchres of Michelangelo Buonarroti and Galileo Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The concentration of works by Raphael, as radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober Lorenese Crypt, which, in addition to the remains of century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches Galilei, the masterpieces by Giotto (Bardi and Peruzzi famous Boboli Gardens, which are the well as paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors the Lorena family, contains the funeral monument in the city. Its current appearance, however, is the Chapels, Baroncelli Polyptych), by Taddeo Gaddi to Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of to Cosimo the Elder, founder of the dynasty. park of the palace, a genuine open-air Caravaggio and Rubens. result of the last major reconstruction work that took (The Last Supper, The Tree of Life) by Donatello (The his great masterpieces here and the French writer The museum also holds a part of the Treasure of museum (see Museo Giardini di Boboli), place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici Annunciation, Crucifix, Saint Louis of Toulouse), by Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation the Basilica: sacred vestments and magnificent take their name from this hill. Palazzo Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Agnolo Gaddi (Alberti and Castellani Chapels) and that has been known since then as the “Stendhal shrines. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm; from 9 April Brunelleschi. Its bare stone façade was intended by Cimabue (the famous Crucifix). Open Mon-Sat Pitti currently contains four different Today the sumptuous environments that syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental to 4 November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th to receive a rich marble decoration designed by 9.30am-5.30pm; Sun and holidays 2pm-5.30pm. museums. were once the residence of the Lorena sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month, 1 January, Michelangelo, which unfortunately Closed 1 January, Easter, 13 June, 4 October, 25-26 Machiavelli and for this reason 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €8. www. family house paintings and sculptures, was never executed. The December. www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa was celebrated by the bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/medicee | Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground mostly Italian, from Neoclassicism to the interior is a masterpiece, Croce, 16 (visitors’ entrance: Largo Bargellini). T: 055 Italian romantic poet www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza Madonna also embellished 2466105. Map I5 floor and mezzanine) 1930s, with an important group of paintings Ugo Foscolo degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2 by sculptures Conserved in what were the summer by the Macchiaioli school. as a temple Biblioteca Marucelliana Cenacolo di Sant’Apollonia apartments of the Medici family are A precious archive of rare pieces established In around 1447 Andrea del Castagno frescoed the the precious “Treasures of the Medici”: Museum of Fashion and Costume between the 17th and 18th centuries by Abbot back wall of the refectory of the ancient Benedictine Marucelli, it conserves 500,000 volumes, manuscripts monastery of Sant’Apollonia (1339) with The Last vases made of semi-precious stones, (Palazzina della Meridiana) and prints. The ancient reading rooms, including the Supper, The Crucifixion, The Deposition and The rock crystals, ambers and ivories, the This museum possesses a stock of six magnificent and spectacular “Salone”, are visitable Resurrection. Other outstanding frescos by Andrea exceptional collection of Oriental thousand items, including ancient clothing, during opening hours or with a guided visit (by del Castagno and paintings from the monastery porcelains; there is also the silverware of theatrical costumes and fashion accessories booking in advance). Open Mon-Thurs 8.30am-6pm, are also on display in the museum. Open daily Fri 8.30am-4pm. Closed Sat-Sun, 1 and 6 January, 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed 1st, 3rd, 5th Saturday and the so-called “Treasure of Salzburg”, an from the 18th century to today, in addition Easter, 25 April, 1 May, 2 June, 24 June, 15 August and Sunday of the month e 1 January, 1 May, 15 August, important collection of jewels created to underwear, jewels and costume 2 weeks in the second half of August, 1 November, 25 December. Free entry. www.polomusealetoscana. between the 17th and 20th centuries, jewellery. Included among the costumes 8 and 25-26 December. www.maru.firenze.sbn.it. Via beniculturali.it. Via XXVII Aprile, 1. T: 055 2388608/610. and a significant section dedicated to are the 16th-century burial clothes of Cavour, 43-45. T: 055 2722200. Map G1 Off Map contemporary jewellery. Cosimo I de’ Medici, Eleonor of Toledo and Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi their son. Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of Palatine Gallery and Monumental Lorenzo (see entry), it is one of the finest examples private architecture of the Renaissance and a Apartments (noble floor) Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on of the architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned dynamic cultural centre that hosts international by Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the The 14 sumptuously furnished rooms of Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. FORTE DI BELVEDERE the wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present the Royal Apartments offer a fascinating Museum full ticket price: €16 (1 Mar/31 The Forte di Belvedere dominating the Boboli Gardens with the Pitti Palace, in a lunette by is gained by ascending the monumental staircase are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, blend of styles telling of the daily lives Oct)/€10 (1 Nov/28 Feb). www.uffizi.it/ designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo the café and the museum shop, which looks out Giusto Utens. The Flemish painter is remembered for the series of Medicean villas in lunette and tastes of the various periods and palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Ammannati in 1559. The stained-glass windows were onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, form that he painted for the third Grand Duke of Tuscany Ferdinando I, (1599–1602). created by Flemish craftsmen from designs by the performances, contemporary art installations and families that lived there. The “Quadreria”, T: 055 294883. Vasarian school. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and

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holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum exhibitions. Open exclusively on the occasion Innocents”. The museum itinerary combines the Museo di Santa Maria Novella Museo Nazionale del Bargello full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. Piazza f temporary exhibitions. Full ticket price: €3. documentary and historical-artistic heritage, and The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes This imposing building, built between the 13th Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Off Map www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. in its Gallery hosts precious artworks by Sandro the 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7 Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo monumental cloisters. The church contains the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between Fondazione Salvatore Romano di Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and extraordinary works such as Giotto’s Crucifix, 1574 and 1858 (the “Bargello” was the head of the The museum is housed in the ancient Cenacolo Galleria degli Uffizi Luca and Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, Grand Duke’s Guards). The Museum conserves (14th century) of the convent, built beside the church The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and On the terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone the Tornabuoni Chapel by Ghirlandaio and his a highly important collection of Renaissance of Santo Spirito, the ancient function of which is second floors of the large building erected between offers beautiful panoramic views. Open daily workshop and the Strozzi Chapel by Filippino sculptures, with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca recalled by the imposing fourteenth-century fresco 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; 10am-7pm. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Lippi. The cloisters present rare examples of the della Robbia, Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini by Andrea Orcagna that decorates its eastern wall, it is one of the most famous museums in the world www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza Santissima Florentine painting of the 14th and 15th centuries. and Giambologna, and prestigious collections of with fragments of a Last Supper at the bottom and on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1 The Ubriachi Chapel and ancient Refectory house “lesser arts” (bronzes, Majolica ware, jewellery, a superb Crucifixion at the top. The museum houses sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages a permanent exhibition of gold jewellery, sacred ivories, medals, fabrics and antique weaponry). works donated to the Municipality of Florence in to the modern age). The collections of paintings Museo del Bigallo furnishings and liturgical vestments, part of the Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. From 9 April to 4 1946 by collector and antiquarian Salvatore Romano, from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain The headquarters of two ancient benevolent church’s ancient Treasury, plus a series of paintings. a precious collection of sculptures, fragments of a number of absolute masterpieces of the art institutions, the Compagnia della Misericordia and Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm (from 1 April to 30 architectural decoration, detached frescos and of all time: from Giotto to Simone Martini, Piero the Compagnia del Bigallo, the so-called Loggia September); 9am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 furnishings of various origins and from periods della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, del Bigallo is a complex the construction of which March). Fridays throughout the year: open from between the ancient Roman Age and the 17th Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raphael, was begun in 1352. A precious record of the history 11am. Saturdays throughout the year 9am-5.30pm; century. Entry to the Cenacolo is gained directly Michelangelo, Caravaggio and Canaletto. There of Florence, the museum conserves wonderful Sundays and Holidays 1pm-5.30pm. Closed on 25 from Piazza Santo Spirito, to the left of the façade are also important collections by German, Dutch frescos from the 14th century, including the Virgin December. Full ticket price: €7.50. www.smn.it, of the church. The museum is contained entirely and Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt of Mercy (1342), presenting the first famous view ’Spinario’ (Boy with Thorn) is a Greek marble www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. within the vast setting of the Cenacolo. Open Mon and Rubens. The Museum also houses the famous of Florence and precious panels from the 14th and sculpture with added Carrara marble Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. and Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Department of Drawings and Prints and the Classical 15th centuries. Access only for pre-booked guided elements from the 1st century AD conserved T: 055 219257- 055 282187.Map E3 Closed 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 July, 15 Antiquities Collection. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am- visits (T: 055 288496): Mon-Sat 10am, 12 noon, 3pm; in the GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI. August, 25 December. Full ticket price: Brancacci 6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 Sun and holidays 10am and 12 noon. Free entry. Museo di Storia Naturale - "La Specola" Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. December. Museum full ticket price: €20 (1 Mar-31 www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza San Zoology Section www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Oct)/€12 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Map F3 Opened to the public in 1775, “La Specola” is one Piazza Santo Spirito, 29. T: 055 287043. Map D5 Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5 of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and the of Europe’s oldest science museums. It possesses Museo dell’Opera del Duomo convents themselves, which were abolished in the a collection of over 3.5 million animals (5,000 Forte di Belvedere Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze The Museum houses works designed and built Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of exhibited to the public) and the largest collection At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici The Galleria owes its vast popularity to for the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical in the world of 18th-century anatomical waxworks commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a the presence of a number of sculptures by Bell Tower and the Baptistery: it is a unique instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena illustrating the entire human body in every detail fortress on the top of Boboli Hill, to incorporate a Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but collection, with masterpieces by Arnolfo di families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on (visitable by booking in advance, T: 055 2756444). villa to be used as a “belvedere” by the Grand Duke’s above the famous David, transported here from Cambio, Ghiberti, Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum Open Tues-Sun 9.30am-6.30pm (1 Oct-31 May), court. Despite its strategic position, it was never Piazza della Signoria (where it was replaced by Antonio Pollaiolo, Verrocchio and Michelangelo, full ticket price: €8. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze. Tues-Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (1 Jun-30 Sept). Closed used for defensive purposes; however, a vault was a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed in the in addition to paintings, goldsmithery, liturgical beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 on Mondays and 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 created in the underground floors to house the state adjacent premises, which were originally two vestments, ancient work tools, models and 2388609/612. Map G2 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. treasury. The fort currently hosts top-level events and convents, are works coming from the Academy architectural projects. Open daily 9am-8pm. www.msn.unifi.it. Via Romana, 17. T: 055 2755100. Galleria Rinaldo Carnielo Closed: 1st Tuesday of the month, 1 January, Map H1 Conserved in the townhouse in Liberty style that Easter, 25 December. Single ticket for the Museum What do those was the home-studio of Rinaldo Carnielo (1853- and all the monuments of the Duomo (Dome, Museo Galileo 1910) are over three hundred sculptures by the Baptistery, Giotto’s Bell Tower): €18 (online). www. Housed in the historic Palazzo Castellani, its unique plates on the artist and a number of paintings by artists who were ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, collections include ancient scientific instruments his contemporaries, such as Silvestro Lega, Michele 9 (ticket office Piazza San Giovanni, 7). T: 055 datable between the 11th and 19th centuries, Gordigiani and Arturo Calosci. An exponent 2302885. Map G2 including all of Galileo Galilei’s original instruments. houses mean? of late 19th-century commemorative statuary, One group consists of the collection of instruments Florence has an intense relationship Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure Carnielo had close relations with the environment of the Medici dynasty, the other of the objects with its river: the Arno is part of the An elegant collection of works made of semi- of the Macchiaioli, of whom he was a friend and subsequently gathered together by the Grand precious stones and multi-coloured marble and city’s history, its geography, its image passionate collector. Museum temporarily closed Dukes of Lorraine. Open daily 9.30am-6pm, Tues scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, and its very identity. Unfortunately, over to the public. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. 9.30am-1pm. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone fi.it. Piazza Savonarola, 3. Off Map ticket price € 9. www.museogalileo.it. Piazza dei the centuries, Florence has not only samples. The works are displayed in chronological Giudici, 1. T: 055 265311. Map G5 experienced its life-giving energy, but also Gino Bartali Cycling Museum order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. its destructive power: the Arno, in fact, has The museum is located at Ponte a Ema, the locality Open Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays Museo Giardini di Boboli where the great cycling champion Gino Bartali and holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the burst its banks on a number of occasions, was born and began his competitive career. The degli Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1 marvellous Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who causing damage and fatalities. The plates building, completed in 2006, contains a store of were first responsible for designing their layout, Museo di Palazzo Vecchio that are to be found on numerous façades cycles from various periods, enabling visitors to creating the model of the Italian-style garden that For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, indicate the height reached by the river: recognise their technical evolution, the actual was to become an example for many European or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the these are the numbers and dates that museum, with displays of velocipedes, bicycles, courts. Populated by ancient and Renaissance city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the clothing and relics documenting the history of statues, adorned with grottos - including the Florence wanted to engrave on its walls Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over cycling and the feats of Gino Bartali and other famous Buontalenti Grotto - and large fountains, time it has undergone numerous enlargement and so as not to forget. In particular, on 4th champions, and finally collections of period such as those of Neptune and the Ocean, they transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine November 1966, Florence experienced newspapers, publications and films. Open Fri-Sat are a genuine open-air museum. The terraced routes are rooms and private environments the most serious flood in its recent 10am-1pm, Sun and holidays: 10pm-4pm. Closed area includes the Rococò pavilion known as the sumptuously decorated by some of the most 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. At history: it was a dramatic and frightening famous artists of the Florentine Renaissance, with Free entry. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina del episode, and the inhabitants’ memory of period furnishings and exceptional masterpieces Via Chiantigiana, 175 - Ponte a Ema (30 minutes Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum (see such as Judith and Holofernes by Donatello, The it is vivid. Looking around you, you will from Florence). T: 055 287043. Off Map entry). Open daily 8.15am-6.30pm (Apr-May-Sept), MUSEO DEGLI INNOCENTI Genius of Victory by Michelangelo and Verrocchio’s find numerous plates that commemorate 8.15am-4.30pm (Jan-Feb-Nov-Dec), 8.15am-9.30pm This new museum - which was the first orphanage in Europe (15th century) - opened to the Museo degli Innocenti Cherub. Open daily, from 1 April to 30 September: it, but you will have to raise your gaze, (Jun-Jul-Aug), 8.15am-5.30pm in March, 8.15am- The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale 9am-11pm; from 1 October to 31 March: 9am-7pm. public in 2016 and combines art, architecture and the history of Childhood all together. 6.30pm in October. Closed first and last Monday because the water reached heights of degli Innocenti, a masterpiece of Renaissance Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm: Closed Its museum itinerary is developed around the theme of welcoming. of the month. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full architecture designed by Brunelleschi. Opened on 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €10. between 4 and the 5 metres. The official ticket price: €10 (1 Mar-31 Oct)/€6 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned children, today www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della number of victims was thirty-five. www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. Map E6 it continues its function as the “Institute of the Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4

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Orsanmichele Santa Maria del Fiore A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria and religious functions are combined. Built as a del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated the world, are a single large open-air museum, Sunday 3 June:free admission for Christian worship. On the ground floor the a unique combination of art, faith and history Church houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by located in the city’s main square, the religious, to State Museums Orcagna. The originals of the numerous sculptures historical and artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo (works by famous Florentine artists from the 15th (Santa Maria del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the and 16th centuries) that adorned the niches outside Baptistery of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower (see all in on the four sides of the imposing stone cube are "Attractions&Monuments"), together with the Crypt conserved in the museum on the first floor. On the of Santa Reparata and the Museo dell’Opera del second floor you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Duomo (see entry) are all visitable with a single ticket Santa Maria del Fiore. Classical music concerts are that can be purchased online (full price €18), with prior held here. Church (ground floor): open daily 10am- booking necessary for the Dome. The visiting times of 4.50pm. Museum of Sculptures (first and second the monuments are different and vary depending on floor): open Mon (10am-4.50pm) and Sat (10am- the day. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del 12.30). Free entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali. Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 it/musei/3/orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 2388606. Map F4 Villa Bardini and Gardens The most beautiful view of Florence earned it the Palazzo Medici Riccardi name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a place rich Four centuries of the history of art, architecture and in history, art and culture, has become an exhibition collections in a single building, one of the most centre, which, along with temporary exhibitions, beautiful in Florence; built in the mid-15th century also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum (www. by Michelozzo at the wishes of the Medici, it is the museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great realist prototype of Renaissance civil architecture. Its jewel painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum (www. MUSEO NOVECENTO is the Magi Chapel, which you enter by climbing the fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being elegant seventeenth-century staircase. Open daily restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelin- In addition to a permanent collection, the museum devoted to the Italian art of the 20th 8.30am-7pm. Closed on Wednesdays. Via Cavour, 3. starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati (see century proposes exhibitions and special projects, becoming an innovative space for T: 055 2760340. Map F2 "Dining"), and surrounding it are four hectares of research and experimentation. www.museonovecento.it woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen garden Porcelain Museum and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on th Housed at the top of the Boboli Gardens, in the 18 - Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Bardini Gardens: open century Palazzina del Cavaliere at the centre of the daily 8.15am-4.30pm (Nov-Feb); 8.15am-5.30pm (Mar); November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th ferragamo.com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Rose Garden, are the collections of table porcelains 8.15am-6.30pm (Apr-May, Sept-Oct); 8.15am-7.30pm Botticelli Room, Galleria degli Uffizi Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month, 1 Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4 of the ruling houses that succeeded each other (Jun-Aug). Closed first and last Monday of the month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket at Pitti Palace, representing Italian and European Museo Stefano Bardini January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price €10 (with price: €9. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/ production: from the Manifattura di Doccia, founded A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Museum). www. musei/1/bargello. Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 by the Ginori family, to the porcelains of Sèvres and Every first Sunday of the month, more • Museo di Casa Martelli in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - Via dei Bardi, 1/r. 282902. Map G4 Meissen. For address, opening and closing times, than 450 museums and archaeological via Ferdinando Zannetti, 8 his private collection to Florence, where it was T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G7 see Museo Giardini di Boboli. Map F7 sites across Italy open their doors to the • Museo di Palazzo Davanzati Museo Novecento displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building (formerly The Museum is housed in the ancient Spedale di the church and convent of San Gregorio della Pace) public free of charge. Florence, like many via Porta Rossa, 13 San Paolo (13th century), which was later the Scuole that housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over other cities in the country, has joined • Museo di Orsanmichele Leopoldine (18th century). Dedicated to the Italian 2000 items there, including sculptures, paintings this initiative promoted by the Ministry via Arte della Lana, 1 art of the 20th century, it offers a selection of and objects of applied arts, from ancient art to of Cultural Heritage by offering free • Cenacolo di Andrea del Sarto a San Salvi around 300 works representing that unrepeatable that of the 18th century, with a major presence of artistic season that saw Florence at the centre of the works from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. admission to the museums listed below www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it international cultural scene. Structured in reverse Among its most significant works are St. Michael the on Sunday 3 June. via di San Salvi, 16 chronological (from the 1990s to the early 20th Archangel by Antonio del Pollaiolo, the Madonna of • Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze century), thematic and interdisciplinary order, the the Ropes by Donatello and Guercino’s Atlas. Open GALLERIE DEGLI UFFIZI www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it immersive museum itinerary includes multimedia Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Closed on 1 January, www.uffizi.it via Ricasoli, 58-60 workstations, sound devices and video rooms along Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket with the works themselves. From 1 October to 31 price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. • Gli Uffizi • Giardino della Villa di Castello March: open daily (except Thurs) 11am-7pm, Thurs Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427. piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it 11am-2pm. From 1 April to 30 September: Mon- Map G6 • Gabinetto dei Disegni via di Castello, 44 Tues-Wed-Sat-Sun 11am-8pm, Thurs 11am-2pm, e delle Stampe • MAF-Museo Archeologico Nazionale Fri 11am-11pm. Closed on 25 December. Full ticket Museo Stibbert price: €8.50. www.museonovecento.it. Piazza Santa One of the most fascinating and unusual places in via della Ninna, 5 di Firenze Maria Novella, 10. T: 055 286132/055 217158. Map Florence, it is a Neo-Gothic castle built by Frederick • Palazzo Pitti Museums (see page 69) museoarcheologiconazionaledifirenze. Stibbert (1838-1906) with exceptional collections, D3 Porcelain Museum, Tesoro dei Granduchi wordpress.com including weaponry, art objects and everyday items Museo Salvatore Ferragamo from European, Islamic and Far Eastern civilisations, Giardino di Boboli, Galleria Palatina and piazza S.S. Annunziata, 9 This is a museum devoted to the history of the particularly Japanese, portraits, but also great Royal Apartments, Museo della Moda • Parco di Villa Il Ventaglio Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, masterpieces by Botticelli, Crivelli, Bronzino, e del Costume, Galleria d’Arte Moderna www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every Suttermans and others. Eclectic taste characterises piazza Pitti, 1 via Giovanni Aldini, 10/12. year it organises exhibitions that investigate the the sumptuous private apartments and the park, relationship between fashion and art. The museum decorated with groves, pavilions, statues, artificial • Villa Medicea della Petraia is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which ruins and a small Egyptian temple. Open Mon-Tues- MUSEI DEL BARGELLO www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the Wed 10am-2pm; Fri-Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it via della Petraia, 40. headquarters for his company and his workshop Thursdays, 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 • Museo delle Cappelle Medicee • Villa Medicea di Cerreto Guidi and – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of December. Full ticket price €8. Visits are run every piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 Museo Storico della Caccia e del Territorio Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries. hour for accompanied, groups of 25 people. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, www.museostibbert.it. Via Stibbert, 26. • Museo Nazionale del Bargello www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www. T: 055 475520. Off Map via del Proconsolo, 4 via Ponti Medicei, 7 - Cerreto Guidi Cappella dei Magi, Palazzo Medici Riccardi

72 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 73 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM Emergency AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 European Emergency Number – T: 112 (available at the end of 2018) 112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance (118), Fire Service (115), Police (113). Operators will also answer calls in English, French or German. If the caller does not know where he or she is, the operator will identify where the person making the call is physically located and will pass this information to the emergency services. OPEN PHARMACIES Farmacia Comunale 13 (inside S. M. Novella Station. T: 055 216761) open daily 24/24; Farmacia all’Insegna del Moro (Piazza San Giovanni, 20/R. T: 055 211343) open daily 8am-midnight. www.farmaciediturno.net PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP © ATAF requested by phone. TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it Florence, it is possible to travel on all the means of Getting around Florence TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it transport (both trams and buses) with no added cost by taking advantage of your train ticket for 24 ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and hours from the time of arrival and 24 hours before Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi departure to visit the city using public transport Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line (Toll Free drivers. on the network served by Ataf means of transport Number) T: 800 424500; from mobile (Toll Number): Fixed taxi fares to airports and the T1 tramway. T: 199 104245. From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): ATAF Point-Customer Care Railway Station €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for Airports Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices no. 8 and no. 9. night or holiday travel). Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Lost and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - (4 km from the 9am-12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Malpensa: €650 centre of Florence). The airport, to the North-West Via Veracini, 5 (int. 5). T: 055 334802. of Florence, lies between the “Firenze Nord” exit Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or The museum city Fixed taxi fares to some destinations in Tuscany from the freeway and Florence’s industrial area the tram: the ticket must be validated using the Pisa: €150 / Montecatini Terme: €90 / Siena: €120 / near Prato. Call centre T: 055 30615. machines on the bus. Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique Livorno: €160 / Forte dei Marmi: €180 / Arezzo: www.aeroporto.firenze.it Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. €140 / Lucca: €140 / Empoli: €55 / Pistoia: €65 / San • Connections to the airport concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. Can be used on buses, trams or trains. Gimignano: €100 / Volterra: €150 / Piombino: €300. VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). Fixed taxi fares to main Shopping Outlets S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every 90 minutes onboard ticket (€2, no change given). lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of allowed into the centre to load and unload attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the Boboli 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and The Mall: €65 / Barberino Designer Outlet Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s McArthurGlen: €65 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period your concierge, also so you can receive most bohemian neighbourhood. one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day F ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station (Via S. Trains ticket from 10pm to 3am (€4, by phoning T: 055 of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the indications of where the car parks are located For decades the Florentine naming system Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices (www. 5650555). Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces in the centre). has had a peculiarity that is gradually The most important railway station is Santa Maria ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip ticket: €10. Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della The T1 Tram connects S.M. Novella Station in remain. With less than four hundred thousand To find your way around the city, it is a good disappearing, but some traces of it can still WHERE TIP A new line Tramway 2, connecting Florence to Scandicci (www.gestramvia.com) Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed the airport with S.M. Novella Station, is activated inhabitants and covering an area of little more idea to keep well in mind that Florence is be found: the civic numbers, in fact, were Electric buses move around the historic centre and international trains arrive at and depart in June 2018. than a hundred square kilometres, Florence is developed along the two banks of the River divided between “black”, which denoted the from there. and also reach the pedestrian areas. There are AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) practically impossible to tour by car, and in fact Arno. All the roads that run alongside the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red Florence offers fast-track access to major cities four lines: C1-C2-C3-D. WHERE TIP Route C1 - (80 km from the centre of Florence). Call centre the centre is to a large extent prohibited to river, on both sides, are called “Lungarno” numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: is convenient for visiting the most important • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h T: 050 849300. www.pisa-airport.com museums in Florence. vehicle traffic. and it is only the second part of the name that Finally, some suggestion for improving your • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 The entire historic centre of Florence (which is We suggest, if possible, that you tour it on changes. Lungarno degli Archibugieri, for visit. The Tuscan regional capital is one of the Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min approximately the part located within the 19th- Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but you example, is right in the centre: it is there that cities with the highest tourist density on the century ring-roads or viali, which is a protected TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www. €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, can also count on quite an efficient public the Vasari Corridor passes and the Uffizi looks entire planet: wherever you wish to visit, book UNESCO heritage site) is a “Zona a Traffico Limitato” trenitalia.com. WHERE TIP Train+bike is a viable travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. (ZTL), or restricted traffic zone. Bicycles, electric transport network (which, however, is severely out over it. in advance (or have them book for you at your formula for sustainable mobility. It is possible to 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu vehicles, motorcycles and scooters are allowed to limited during the nighttime hours, so take The whole area on the other side of the hotel). You should also bear in mind that the put your bikes on Trenitalia regional trains. 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: enter. Access is granted, at any time, ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, WHERE TIP care after midnight). river, to the south, is called “Oltrarno” by serious overcrowding takes place around mid- to visitors who need to reach a hotel where they www.italotreno.it. WHERE TIP For travellers travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. Taxis and bikes can reach all the strategic the Florentines. It was originally outside the morning, so if you are an early bird then that have a booking in their car. with Italo departing from Florence or arriving in 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it points, whereas private cars are usually only historic centre, but today it contains important could give you a significant advantage. (E.B.)

74 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 75 ESSENTIALS

Your personal travel assistant now in the Tourist Information best hotels in Florence! INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - www.firenzeturismo.it 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information and sales point for Firenzecard. 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. FREE FREE HOTSPOT T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free brochures and complaints service. Sales point for CALLS INTERNET WIFI Firenzecard. 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. HOTEL INFO CITY TICKETS & TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, & SERVICES GUIDE by EVENTS events, opening times of museums, how to move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. Via email ([email protected]) you can ask for information in any language, including Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic (answers within 24 hours). and the surrounding areas. It costs €72 and offers. It costs just €5, but you can only buy it if you TOURIST CARDS provides priority access to museums. have the Firenze Card. www.firenzecard.it. Firenzecard is a special tourist card valid for Firenzecard+ is the Plus version: you can travel by 72 hours providing you with admission to 72 all the city’s buses for 3 days and you have access Special Tours to many commercial partners with discounts and museums, villas and historical gardens in Florence CITY SIGHTSEEING® FIRENZE HOP ON HOP OFF Hallmark red double-decker bus. 7 days a week, UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE all year round. You can join the tour from any stop. Tickets on board, in hotels and from authorised agencies or on the Internet. Wi-fi on board. “Sightseeing Experience” Free App. 24-hour ticket > Prices: Adults €23 - reduced €12 – family €70. 48-hour ticket > Prices: Adults €28 - reduced €14 – family 84€. 72-hour ticket > Prices: Adults €33 - reduced €17. The public transport ticket is included in your ticket. 2 lines, over 40 stops. Commentary in 8 languages. Main departures > A Line: S.M. Novella Station. B Line: Piazzale Michelangelo. Combo tickets for top Florence attractions can be purchased at special prices. www.city-sightseeing.it/it/firenze SEGWAY - The trendiest, most environmentally friendly way to visit the city. Rental fare: 1 hour: €19. www.segwayfirenze.it LOOKALS - The new platform where travellers can choose from the best selection of tours and activities in Italy created by locals and tour guides, who can promote and sell their own itineraries, getting in touch with thousands of travellers from all over the world. www.lookals.com. Bike Sharing MOBIKE – This ’free floating’ bike-sharing system allows you to book a bike via the free Mobike App (App Store or Google Play), identify the position of the bike nearest to you and then leave it in any authorised parking area in the city or in a bike rack. Cost: €1 deposit, and €0.30 for every 30 minutes. For more information, visit www.mobike.com Useful information about cycling maps on www.becycle.comune.fi.it. www.manetmobile.com [email protected] 76 WHERE FLORENCE I JUNE 2018 V A SI E S T E S E

CASTELLO SESTO FIORENTINO

SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A

S A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E S VI VIA XXV APRILE

T A G. DUPRÈ E VIA DEL CHIUSO DEI PAZZI S E

I N A I L U I G O D L A N I G E R A I V V IA D E L L E PA N C H E

VIA ANDREA COSTA A COSTA VIA ANDRE

VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I V I A C A R L O D E L G R E C O Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

VIA PORTIGIANI Cattedrale di San Romolo SC ONI CI ALE 54 D EI BO STRADA PROVIN PIAZZA PIAZZA G.GARIBALDI MINO DA FIESOLE VIA MASSICINI V L. U C C H E S E

VIALE XI AGOSTO V VIA SANT’AP

A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E I VIA S.CHIARA

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V IA S A LV A D O R A L L E N D E F R À

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BADIA L MATTEI VIA MANTELLINI ' A N G E V AI P R A T E S E L I C PIZZERIA O V I A U G O C O R S I SAN DOMENICO V. DEL PONTE DI QUARACCHI Convento di San Domenico V. CUPOLA VIA MANTELLINI

VIABENEDETTO DA MAIANO VIALE G. LUDER VIALE G.B. MORGAGNI

LLO STECCUTO VIA DE VIA FAENTINA VIALE ASTRONAUTI PIAZZA EUGENIO Stazione Firenze Rifredi VIA D EL PALAGIO DEGLI S PINI ARTOM VIALE ASTRONAUTI VIA PANCIATICHI

VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI VIA RENATO FANTONI

VIA DELLE PANCHE I VIA D I CARRAIA VIALE XI AGOSTO V. ACCADEMIA CIMENTO C C V I A A R T U R O F E R R A R I N V. S. STEFANO IN PANE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO U VIA DELL'OLMATELLO LG. DELLA T VIA D I CARRAIA LIBERAZIONE R V ANNI BOCCACCIO V I A P R A T E S E A I A V

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V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O G U I D O N I VIA ALMERICO DA SCHIO A VIALELUIGI GORI VIA MAGELLANO L STID E FACCIO LI D V. CUPOLA VIA SAN DOMENICO V. ARI O

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L V AI D IN O V O L I VIA SAN PIERO A QUARACCHI

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V IA S A N D O M E N IC O TOSCANA VIA PISTOIESE . Palazzo di Giustizia di Firenze VIA DELLA TORRE DEGLI AGLI VIA DEL TERZOLLE V VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI V. M . M E R C AT I

VIA DEI CAPPUCCINI VIA DI MONTUGHI VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO TERZOLLE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIALE DELLA V. M A L P I G H I ELAL PIAZZUOLA VIA PISTOIESE PIAZZA Convento Frati Cappuccini D V. M AT T I O L I V. C U O C O VIA A P.TTA DEL TERZOLLE V. C I N O D A P I S T O I A VIA ORAZIO VECCHI Parco San Donato PIAZZA DELL'ELBA G. G. ARCHI VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI Chiesa Santa Maria Ausiliatrice Chiesa ASSAI San Francesco e Santa Chiara V I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I CARACCIOLO F.V. VIA PISTOIESE VIA SANDRO PERTINI VIA CARLO PISACANE Giardino V. B A R B E R I N O Del Museo V. F. T. BARACCHINI Stibbert V. LUISA SANFELI

VIALE CORSICA VIA GUGLIELMO M V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

V IA F R A N C E S C O B A R A C C A E S E N G O L O B A I V Parco Pettini Burresi TOSCANA G. GIORGINI CE V. GUINIZZELLI VIA RIGUCCIO GALLUZZI

VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DELLE FORBICI Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI G. BARTOLINI Villa Fabbricotti VIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R VIA TRIESTE TERZOLLE V I A G . B A R B E R A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA TINI PIAZZA MUGNONE VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA B R O N GIAMPIETRO VIA BEZZECCA ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi OFF V. F. CARACCIOLO V V I A L A VIA GAETANO MILANESI I A D I N O C O M PA G N I VIA SAN DONATO V I A T R E Parco Liceo V AI C G . U A S T I V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLE QUERCE Leonardo da Vinci V. O. DA PORDENONE VIA TRIESTE N IA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I Chiesa della B.V. M LARGO Madre della CESARE Orti del Parnaso Divina Provvidenza MUGNONE V IA M A R A G L IA N O CANTÙ

V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO VIA ANTONIO STOPPANI NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I PIAZZA LUDOVICO ANTONIO VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI V VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa MURATORI I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I Preziosissimo ANTI VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Sangue IA SAN DOMENICO MUGNONE U G I A V I VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI Stazione Firenze Statuto Giardino V I A F A E N T I PIAZZA V V. G. dell'Orticoltura VIALE FRANCESCO REDI VIA FRANCESCO BONAINI FEB OXR A I A V I Villa il TOMMASO PIAZZA Ventaglio VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C ALVA EDISON V. I. NIEVO VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA VIA BOLOGNESE DELLE CURE C O I L Chiesa della UIDO CAVALC Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT I N I VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA RFA NA C SEPC IVOR I PIAZZA VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI VIA V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I VNES AIRN EI N I V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI D EASLO TATV I U TO D I GIACOMO PIAZZA A L I VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N I A PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O XAMV XI A G GO I V E VITTORIA VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I DAV I ER LO M TO I G A V IA M A R A G L IA N O V. TOSCANELLI VIA DELLE FORBICI U VIA A. GARBASSO G VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI PIAZZA VIA DELLA CERNAIA A VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI I U VIA FILIPPO PACINI SE V. A. MEUCCI V GALILEO VIA ANTONIO COCCHI S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O T MUGNONE FERRARIS VIA DEI CAIROLI O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Istituto Comprensivo Statale R I V V I A D E L G ONNA TOS VIA LEONARDO FIBONACCI H Sacro Cuore VIALE ALESSANDROV. VOLTAG. B. AMICI I I VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI L U C A G OI R D A N O A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI LARGO C .A V I V. MAD PONTE ROSSO

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