CITY GUIDE ®

AUGUST 2018 FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

INSIDE: HOW TO GET 10% OFF YOUR SHOPPING Exclusively for foreign COVER IMAGE BY individual customers

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

® WELCOME TO FLORENCE Florence August 2018 whereMAGAZINE Florence florence.whereitalia.com HIGH-QUALITY ITALIAN EXPERIENCE WHERE ITALIA SRL Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 If you are reading this magazine, you are very V A SI E S T E S E FOCUS SIGHTSEEING [email protected] 10 50 florence.whereitalia.com likely to be a “High-Quality Traveler”. This is CASTELLO PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF because you are using quality tourist information SESTO the guide Andrea Jarach ([email protected]) to guide you on your stay in Florence. FIORENTINO SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO EDITORIAL V I A (PROEDI MEDIA GROUP) 2 SHOPPING S A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E This is because Where® is only found in the best S VI VIA XXV APRILE

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V IA F R A N C E S C O B A R A C C A E S E N G O L O B A I V Parco Pettini Burresi TOSCANA G. GIORGINI ([email protected])CE V. GUINIZZELLI VIA RIGUCCIO GALLUZZI

VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA VIA FAENTINA VIA PALA NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI VIA AND VIA DELL'ARCOVATA FLORENCE CITY GUIDE V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V AI V S. Antonio V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V PIETRO . F. COLA ® REA CO da Padova al Romito Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI LEOPOLDO TI S PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT D'ORO RSALI T O R OI E M A N U E L EI TIBB V. VANNUCCI VIA PIERO CIRONI 50 SIGHTSEEING Centro Commerciale San Donato ERT V. F. G AI N N I V I A . G . F A B B R O N I In Italy we are talking about approximately 12 million travellers each VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio MANAGER Paola Grilli ([email protected]) VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DELLE FORBICI Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI G. BARTOLINI & MUSEUMS Villa Fabbricotti ContentsVIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R VIA TRIESTE AUGUST 2018 FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM TERZOLLE V I A G . B A R B E R A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA INI V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA CACCIO T PIAZZA MUGNONE year, around 20% of the total. Some of these High-Quality Travelers VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA B R O N GIAMPIETRO E VIA BEZZECCA ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I I BOC VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI VIEUSSEUX T OFF V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I e San Martino a Montughi HOTEL RELATIONSNN MANAGERV V I A L A V. F. CARACCIOLO Maria Granata The ‘Gong’ exhibition I A D I N O C O VIA GAETANO MILANESI VIA SAN DONATO V V AI C G . U A S T I I A T Parco Liceo V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLE R E V. O. DA PORDENONE V I A T R I E S N IA GIOVA VIA CIRCONDARIA T O ([email protected])V Chiesa della B.V. M A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I M PA G N I spend more than €1,000 a day in this country, a huge market for LARGO Madre della at Forte di Belvedere:CESARE Orti del Parnaso Divina Provvidenza V IA M A R A G L IA N O CANTÙ 4 TOP IN TOWNMUGNONE 20 WELCOME TO QUERCE V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO VIA ANTONIO STOPPANI NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I PIAZZA LUDOVICO ANTONIO VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI HOTEL INFORMATION SERVICES V Cristina Garbini AN DOMENICO those who are able to interpret their tastes and requirements. VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I MURATORItwenty monumental AENTI S Preziosissimo VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Enjoy the city, starting from Sangue I A FORTE DEI MARMIMUGNONE U G I A V I VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI Stazione Firenze Statuto Giardino V I A F PIAZZA V V. G. dell'Orticoltura FEB OXR A I A V I ([email protected]) VIALE FRANCESCO REDI VIA FRANCESCO BONAINI Villa il TOMMASO PIAZZA Ventaglio

VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C ALVA EDISON V. I. NIEVO VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA VIA BOLOGNESE DELLE CURE sculptures explore the O I L UIDO CAVALCANTI Chiesa della We have been doing this for almost a century now. Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT I N I VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA C its main landmark attractions. Discover one of the glamorous RFA NA C SEPC IVOR I VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI PIAZZA VIA V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I VNES AIRN EI N I V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI D EASLO TATV I U TO D I GIACOMO PIAZZA A L I ALL YOU VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N I A PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O XAMV XI A G GO I REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 V E CAN DO cosmos and investigateVITTORIA VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I A V IA M A R A G L IA N O DAV I ER LO M TO I G V Rely on us. For a high-quality Italian experience. VIA DELLE FORBICI U . IN THE CITY WHERE ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC NO. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 TO VIA A. GARBASSO L G resortVIA ANTON FRANCESCO in DONI Italy and a legendary PIAZZA VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI VIA DELLA CERNAIA A U SCA I VIA FILIPPO PACINI SE V. A. MEUCCI V GALILEO VIA ANTONIO COCCHI S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O T N DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH FERRARIS O MUGNONE VIA DEI CAIROLI VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica ELLI Parrocchiale Istituto Comprensivo Statale R I V the energy among V I A D E G INSIDE: HOW TO GET ONNA TOS VIA LEONARDO FIBONACCI H Sacro Cuore VIALE ALESSANDROV. VOLTAG. B. AMICI I I 10% OFF YOUR VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI L U C A G OI R D A N O A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI LARGO C .A V I V. MAD SHOPPING PONTE ROSSO

V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E V. A. NICOLODI PIETRO D Golf Club Parco Di Firenze Exclusively for foreign shopping destination. VIA XX SETTEMBRE PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA O COVER IMAGE BY HOT DATES V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E 6 E individual customers V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A CAPEI

Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena VIA A. BERTANI L AL N D VIA G. BANDI VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI the stars VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON V. G. INGHIRAMI PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI CO NULL C VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO V. A. PACINOTTI IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T This month’s round-up of art RE DI SAN EOXL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O PA MARTIRI N SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS S IACOPINO V. S. BOTTICELLI PIAZZA E A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI AlthoughV AI M A S A C C I the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in GIOVANNI G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCES VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA IA V IA C A S S IA ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO Giardino VIA D. MANTELL IO V AI the event of there being any errors,V AI L E Doversights E MI LI L E or omissions, we would like to FARDELLA della Fortezza VI A DU DI TORREARSA exhibitions, music and folklore. LUXURY TOP BRANDS P I V. G. MARCONI 24 V I A D E L C E R apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published A VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO 58 ESSENTIALS D’AO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA LUPI BONIF C A P P O N PRATELLINO VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE A VIA NINO BIX VIA CASTELFIDARDO COVER BY T E PIAZZA SSANDRIA STA E Chiesa di Sant'Agata in the next issue. V. VOLTURNOV Chiesa San Jacopino L AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CAIROLI I A L E VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO VIALE SPARTACO LAVAGNINI PIAZZA VASARI VIA SAN GALLO M V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O I SAVONAROLA Rinascente The best fashion designers ACIO A VIA G. PAISIELLO O N VIA POGGI VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI IL VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Information and tips V F Giardino VIA PIETRO MARONCELLI V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E VIA G. DOLFI V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O O P V S. CATERINA D'A Campo Di R I IN ITALY Where® is published in Milan, Venice and A A Marte V I A C A V O U R E VI V IA G U S T A V O M O D E N A Chiesa VIAPIO FEDI PIAZZA G VIA DELLE RUOTE PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E U Nostra Signora D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI I del Sacro Cuore Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI D for your high-end shopping. O Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI HISTORICAL GARDENS Florence by Where® Italia,VIA ROSOLIN in Rome by Tourist 10 Franchi to experience the best MONTIGNANO F M V IA V E N E Z IA Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. A O VIA BARTOLOMMEI Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFONSO LA MARMORA V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE A Media srl and in Naples byVIA DEI SETTEIES SANTI Comunicazione srl. VIA DELLA FORTEZZA BAMBINE E BAMBINI EGLI ARTISTI T VIA GIUSEPPE SIRTORI C PIAZZA Cimitero I O DI BESLAN V AI M A S A C C OI The green side of Florence, that FlorenceINDIPENDENZA has Chiesa di VIA PIER ANTONIO MICHELI della Misericordia Passerella dell'Isolotto S. Giovanni VIA D VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N dei Cavalieri VIA MASSA Giardino VL. T. MAMIANI V AI M A N N E L L I V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E VIA SAN GALLO VIA CITTADELLA VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I A D N O F L A V A I V Giardino DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI LG. PORTA to offerVIA DEL PRATELLO with a whole series of public di Valfonda FASHION OUTLETS P EI R C A P P O N I 34 LEOPOLDA Teatro dell’Opera EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS A Z N E A F A I V V IA G U E L F A Giardino V. MONTANELLI dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO Convento VIA GIAMBOLOGNA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco VIA G.LA PIRA WHERE® FLORENCE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI FIRENZE VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RATA Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPPONI V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA LO PORTA AL L VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO or private gardens, some very Several of the best shopping TA V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I LARGO PRATO WHERE® FLORENCE IS AVAILABLE IN FLORENCE’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS V IA T O R C IC O D A PIAZZA ACHILLE Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI San Barnaba SAN Giardino Della Gherardesca PIAZZA SAN MARCO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE VIA SAN GA VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA VIA DELL'ARCOLAIO SAN BARTOLOMEO VIA V AI M A S A C C OI Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I EM U I F A I V FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION AL GIGNORO V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI famous indeed, others jealouslyA R N O destinations not far fromPalazzo CorsiniFlorence. sul Prato Chiesa San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata VIALE MANFREDO FANTI VIA DEI FALCUCCI di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Chiesa Casa di Riposo degli Inglesi episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia PIAZZA BORGO PINTI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James MERCATO V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale V IA D E G L IA L F A N I Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the SANTISSIMA Museo Archeologico V AI L E M A L T A V.Z CENTRALE STAY IN TOUCH V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO VIA DE’GINORI ANNUNZIA VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO Stazione Ferroviaria guarded secrets. 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MORE AT PAGE 50 Top in town MAP PAGES 62-63 SAN MINIATO AL MONTE 1 4 2 11 The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10

MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by 6 3 8 13 Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11

SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12 SHUTTERSTOCK SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, PHOTOS © the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, DUOMO AND CUPOLA CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO square are the of Neptune and a series Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the of statues of Renaissance origin, representing fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used The symbol of wealth and power, the building Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13 in Florence was the largest Christian church Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main one of the most important sculptural cycles in the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. was inhabited by the Medici, then by the in the world. Today the religious building, the components of the complex of Santa Maria the world. The most famous is certainly At the end of the 16th century, however, Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, SANTO SPIRITO official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green Michelangelo’s (this is a copy, whereas when it became the “noble” zone of the city, by the Savoy family. The original architecture A point of reference of the Augustinian order. Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, the original is conserved in the Galleria the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the The church has given its name to the entire dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by dell’Accademia). 4 and they have been there uninterruptedly surname of its first owner. The building is located surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, to this day. 6 Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views GALLERIA DEGLI Gardens are one of the most important examples the church was the last great project by Filippo is a symbol known all over the world. 1 of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3 One of the most famous museums in the world CORRIDOIO VASARIANO of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8 Brunelleschi. 14 on account of its extraordinary collections of The is a raised walkway BATTISTERO ancient sculptures and paintings (from the connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. SAN LORENZO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is AND PALAZZO VECCHIO Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to This is the most famous and appreciated One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, characterised by an octagonal plan, lined This is the central square of Florence, the seat occupies the first and second floors of the large which is at the beginning of the second panoramic point in Florence, with its views according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, with a dome of eight segments, covered by of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing building erected between 1560 and 1580 corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches seen all over the world in million of postcards the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the based on a project by 5 along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, and reproductions. The design of the square Its current appearance, however, is the result of with white marble from Carrara and green Municipal ), the splendid finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital the last major reconstruction work that took marble from Prato, characteristics of the Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della PONTE VECCHIO 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle The official date of foundation of the current Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Medici and under the direction of the great period. 2 Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire 1000 paintings. 7 Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9 architect . 15

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ENTERTAINMENT

12 25 JUNE SEPTEMBER

MEET THE MUSES IN THE EVENING AT THE MUSEUM Until 25 September theatre, music, dance are the artistic forms enlivening Uffizi Live 2018, the festival of live performances promoted by the Uffizi Gallery and offered to the public during the evening opening hours (until 10 pm) on Tuesdays in summer. With a normal entrance ticket it will be possible to see live shows – from African traditional music to the Italian classical repertoire, from jazz to live electronics, from kabuki to contemporary dance – all with a sole common denominator: an original interaction with the art collections and spaces of the Uffizi, the true protagonists of the evenings.

Uffizi Live 2018 Every Tuesday until 25 September, 7-10pm Galleria degli Uffizi, Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 www.uffizi.it

Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

AUGUST

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THE POWER OF AN IMAGE ▼ The green spaces of Villa 21 7 14 16 Bardini host the “Icons” exhibition, a wide-ranging retrospective JUNE OCTOBER JUNE SEPTEMBER devoted to the work of Steve McCurry, one of the world’s greatest contemporary photographers, who with his portrait of Sharbat Gula, the Afghan girl from the refugee camp in Peshawar in Pakistan, created an absolute icon of photojournalism. “Icons” brings together over 100 photographs documenting the very best of the US artist’s output in 40 years of activity in India, Afghanistan, Burma, Japan, Cuba and Brazil.

Steve McCurry. Icons Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2. www.villabardini.it

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MOVIE THEATRE 25 11 IN THE WORLD ▲ After last summer’s great success, with JUNE AUGUST 24 events, all sold out, the new edition A WHOLE LIFE’S WORK of the Florentine film festival returns to ▲ From 1973, for 28 years, his “Große Kugelkaryatide”, known universally as “The Sphere”, was mirrored the incomparable location of Piazzale degli Uffizi (what other cinema on the surface of a stretch of water between the twin towers in World Trade Center Plaza, symbolizing can boast such an evocative movie theatre?). On offer this year will world peace. Perhaps Fritz Koenig’s best known work, it was found among the ruins of the terrorist be arthouse films in their original languages (subtitled in Italian or attack, damaged but not destroyed; it was returned to the WTC in 2017, a few months after its creator’s in English, as appropriate) alternating with more commercial films death. Among the most important sculptors of the twentieth century, Koenig is now being celebrated in Italian, and once again the formula of free entry until places run with a major monographic exhibition of a large number of his works in the magnificent green spaces out is confirmed. Consult the website or ask your concierge for the of the Boboli Gardens and in the rooms of the Uffizi: from his monumental bronze sculptures to his programme of screenings. drawings, also including, for the first time, the works from the last fourty years of his life. Apriti Cinema! Fritz Koenig 1924-2017. A Retrospective MAZAR-I-SHARIF, AFGHANISTAN, 1991. © STEVE MCCURRY Piazzale degli Uffizi - www.estatefiorentina.it Gli Uffizi, piazzale degli Uffizi - Giardino di Boboli, piazza de’ Pitti, 1- www.uffizi.it

FOLKLORE OPERA

THE FESTIVAL OF FESTIVALS “BEL CANTO” BETWEEN ► The Feast of San Lorenzo (St. Lawrence) in Florence THE AISLES is the popular festival par excellence, on account both Inspired by the performances of the renowned “Three Tenors”, of its historical aspect (the Basilica of San Lorenzo was 10 7 Luciano Pavarotti, Plácido Domingo and José Carreras, the trio the city’s first consecrated church, by St. Ambrose AUGUST AUGUST composed of Mattia Nebbiai, Claudio Sassetti and Leonardo in 393 AD), and of the city’s traditional bond with its Sgroi pays homage to the ‘bel canto’ with their interpretations co-patron saint. In antiquity the “Compagnia dei fornai fiorentini di San of some of the most famous arias from Italian melodrama, from La Traviata, Lorenzo” (Company of Florentine bakers of San Lorenzo) distributed Rigoletto and Tosca and others besides. Accompanied by a chamber ensemble blessed bread free of charge to citizens on this day, followed by a feast composed of mandolin, cello and piano, the tenors will also perform some of watermelons in the evening. Today in Piazza San Lorenzo bread has of the finest Neapolitan songs, such as “O sole mio”, “Funiculì Funiculà” and been replaced by lasagne with meat sauce, distributed free of charge “Torna a Surriento”. The concert is to be held in the Auditorium di Santo Stefano together with watermelons at the end of the day of celebrations. The al Ponte Vecchio, a desecrated church that is among the oldest in the city, event also envisages concerts in the church square and, in the morning, abounding in artworks and with acoustics beyond compare. the parade of the Corteo Storico della Repubblica Fiorentina through the streets of the city centre, with the participants in traditional costumes The Three Tenors in Florence - Tribute to Luciano Pavarotti and the presence of the city’s banner. 7 August, 8.30pm Auditorium , Piazza Santo Stefano, 5 Festa di San Lorenzo www.musictick.com Piazza San Lorenzo Photo: Stefano Scheda

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Chiara Zaccarelli Travel Editor Where® Italia

hen we visit a city like Florence, known above all for its works of art, monumental architecture istorical and historical and cultural heritage, we often H tend to forget the equally unique natural wealth that is concealed among the palaces and noble villas or inside prestigious hotels. gardens TheW city, in fact, boasts a whole series of public or private gardens, some very famous indeed, others jealously guarded secrets. Many of these conceal so many works of art within them that they could be Discovering the more pastoral, green side considered on a par with the museums themselves, others possess a variety of precious plants and citrus trees worthy of a botanical of Florence, but also lilacs, pinks, crimsons garden. Some are besieged by Florentines and tourists, especially in and ochres. Secret, public, private, English- the flowering season, but on warm August afternoons, when the or Italian-style gardens, place to take a summer colours slowly begin to fade into autumn tones, they will give you peace, tranquillity and some much sought-after cool shade. break and seek out a cool, shady place away from the warm August sun. THE GREAT CLASSICS Imposing, romantic, classical, Boboli is the quintessential garden BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI of Florence and its museum circuit, which also includes the Silver Museum, the Costume Gallery, the Porcelain Museum and the in the ticket price, is among the most visited state-owned sites in Italy. This imposing green space extends over 45 hectares and was created over the course of four centuries, behind Palazzo Pitti, of which it is an integral part, since it enables visitors to fully grasp the spirit of courtly life at the time of the Medici. Boboli is an enormous green lung where you can take a regenerating break between visits to one monument and the next, but at the same time it is an open-air museum in its own right, possessing countless sculptures, grottos and of great artistic value, including the very famous Buontalenti Grotto, one of the most bizarre architectural wonders of Florence (www.uffizi.it/giardino-boboli). In addition to all this, until 7 October, the Boboli Gardens and a number of rooms of the Uffizi welcome the sculptures and drawings of German artist Fritz Koenig, whose most famous work, “The Sphere”, originally sited at the World Trade Center in New York and damaged by the terrorist attack of 11 September 2001, has since become a symbol of peace and reconstruction (see page 8). Thus the green spaces of the famous garden become the privileged backdrop for the monumental bronze, stone and corten steel works by Koenig, considered one of the most important sculptors of the twentieth century (www.uffizi.it). As we said above, the entrance ticket to the Boboli Gardens is also valid for another marvellous Florentine green space: the Bardini Gardens, a location with a unique panoramic view of Florence occupying part of a hill surrounded by medieval walls. Over the centuries it has been transformed, age after age, changing from a space dedicated to agriculture to what today is an Italian-style

SHUTTERSTOCK garden including a Baroque flight of steps, four hectares of English- style woodland with exotic elements, an orchard and a wisteria bower. Within it is Villa Bardini, which took its place among those PHOTO © “Casini di Delizia” [Country Houses of Delight] that were widespread Panoramic view of the Boboli Gardens from Palazzo Pitti. Top right: little angel on top of the monkey fountain. in Florence between the 16th century and the first half of the 17th, created for rest and relaxation and surrounded by cultivated agricultural land, but also with ornamental purposes. The villa, on

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A PALETTE OF COLOURS A garden for all seasons. While in spring the Bardini Gardens and Rose and Iris Gardens are the most popular, in summer exhibitions and events “blossom” at Boboli and in the Gherardesca Gardens. In autumn, because of their foliage, all the trees dress up in warm colours ranging from yellow, through orange and red, to sienna, and to shades of plum and violet, transforming the city into a fascinating palette of colours.

Cave of animals in the garden The Medici at Castello near Florence of royal villa in Castello Della Gherardesca Garden Path,Four Seasons Hotel Firenze

effort. The Torrigiani Gardens are located in are set splendidly in the park, and there is also the Oltrarno, not far from Palazzo Pitti, and with a Kaffeehaus and some areas used for events. their almost seven hectares they are among the Being the property of the Four Seasons Hotel, What is a “limonaia”? most beautiful and extensive private gardens the garden is not open to the public, apart in Europe. Famous also as a botanical garden, from on certain days of the year or for events. If When visiting Florence and its surrounding area you will undoubtedly happen upon one or more on account of their extraordinary variety of you are not lucky enough to be staying at this limonaie, lemon houses. But what is a limonaia exactly? It is the equivalent of what in France, and arboreal species and plants coming from marvellous location, but you would still like to in all the European courts, was known as an orangerie, in other words, a greenhouse for citrus various parts of the world, they also possess visit the park, you can treat yourself to lunch or fruit. Lemon houses were particularly widespread in on account of the Medici, who statues, fountains and temples, all with a precise dinner at the Il Palagio restaurant, located inside particularly loved citrus trees and cultivated them, both for their therapeutic value and for purely symbolic and esoteric meaning. Among the the hotel and awarded a Michelin star ornamental purposes. However, citrus trees struggle to grow in Tuscany because the winters most fascinating architectural elements of the (www.fourseasons.com/it/florence). are too harsh, so in the past during the coldest season they had to be put under cover, in special gardens is the Neo-Gothic tower, almost 22 The Orti Oricellari [Oricellari Gardens] are a spaces called “limonaie”. There was no villa in Tuscany during the Renaissance that did not metres high, with its unmistakable external spiral small hidden garden, situated near Santa Maria possess a limonaia. Today many of these ancient structures have been restored and are used as staircase, at the top of which stands a small Novella, the name of which derives from that places for meetings, cultural events and ceremonies, such as the limonaia at Villa Strozzi, others astronomic observatory. The tower, positioned of the Rucellai family, who had them built and have retained their original function as shelters for citrus trees, such as the ancient limonaia at the on an artificial hillock to increase its visual owned them for a number of centuries. They Villa Medicea di Castello, which today still protects an important collection of rare citrus trees impact, is a reference to the Torrigiani family, date back as far as the late 15th century, when from the elements, or in Boboli, midway between Palazzo Pitti and the outer edge of the garden, who had a tower surmounted by three stars they were built together with the building which today still conserves its Rococo façade, plasterwork and original doors and windows. on their coat of arms, and also contains many that Nannina de’ Medici, sister of Lorenzo concealed Masonic and esoteric symbols. The the Magnificent, and her husband Bernardo The limonaia at Palazzo Strozzi garden is private and still belongs to the two Rucellai, had constructed to house the Platonic Torrigiani families of Santa Cristina and Torrigiani Academy of Florence. The Academy was Malaspina, who still live there, so it can only be later attended by some of the greatest artists visited with the prior agreement of one of the and thinkers of the time, including Niccolò Bardini garden owners, who will personally accompany you for Machiavelli and Leo X. The heart of the the entire visit (www.giardinotorrigiani.it). current Orti Oricellari are the fountain, with its four levels, includes sixty rooms and halls and you hungry, then you’re in the right place, Today located inside the prestigious Four colossal statue of Polyphemus drinking from today hosts exhibitions and events. Here, until because inside the villa is the Michelin-starred Seasons Hotel Firenze, the Gherardesca a wineskin, and the Grotto degli Orti, with 16 September, you can visit the retrospective restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati, which also – Garden is known for its botanical rarities, statues and representing the winds “Steve McCurry. Icons” (see page 9), devoted obviously – provides magnificent views of the such as the first mandarin oranges to be and nymphs; it is visitable, but only by prior to the work of master photographer Steve city (www.laleggendadeifrati.it). cultivated in Florence and some precious appointment (for more info ask your concierge). McCurry, which gathers together over 100 of trees, now centuries-old, such as a maple of his photographs, created in 40 years of activity SECRET GARDENS considerable dimensions, a redwood, a giant OUTSIDE THE HISTORIC CENTRE (www.villabardini.it). You need to book in advance to be able to thuja and a splendid collection of azaleas. In A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Villa Medicea If all these exhibitions and gardens have made visit them, but it is undoubtedly worth the this case too, temples, statues and fountains di Castello is an ancient complex boasting,

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AROUND THE CORNER You just need 10 minutes by bus or train to take a break from the heat and the frenetic life of the city centre. Florence is surrounded by green hills, centuries-old parks and splendid gardens, genuine masterpieces bathed in nature, art and history. Here, walking amid the greenery surrounded by water features, fountains, grottos, trees hundreds of years old, coniferous woods and Mediterranean maquis, you will surely find that much sought-after coolness. #BoggiGentlemanStyle

The Grotto of Cupid at medicean Park of Pratolino in addition to a Medici villa, a splendid Italian- for trekking or Nordic walking enthusiasts. to ancient weapons and art objects and A GENTLEMAN style garden, second only to Boboli. Arranged But, like all Florentine gardens, Pratolino Park is surrounded by a large English-style park, with along three terraces, the park is situated in the also an open-air museum: although many of Hellenistic and Egyptian temples, grottos hillside area of Castello, within easy reach of the its original artworks have been removed over and water features. Here a series of allegorical centre city by bus or train. The two very famous the centuries, it still conserves others of great itineraries, embellished by decorative elements works by Botticelli, Primavera [Spring] and The interest, including the enormous Apennine such as columns, statues and zoomorphic KNOWS THE VALUE Birth of Venus, today housed in the Uffizi Gallery, Colossus by Giambologna, and then the Egyptian divinities, guide visitors through the were commissioned by Lorenzo de’ of Jupiter, the , the Fagianeria garden in an interweaving of mythological for this villa, which today hosts the prestigious [Pheasant House], the Grotto of Cupid and the symbologies. The Stibbert Garden is one of the Accademia della Crusca [literally the “Academy stables, all designed by Buontalenti few examples of an eclectic 19th-century park OF TIME. of Bran”], a school dedicated to the study of the (www.cittametropolitana.fi.it/parco- that have remained intact in Florence. No less Italian language, and is therefore not visitable. mediceo-di-pratolino). than 56 species and over 600 specimens are You can, however, visit the splendid gardens, On the hill of Montughi (reachable with present, including limes, pines, holm oaks, horse - Rule 36 - abounding in citrus trees and rare plants and the no. 4 bus from Firenze SMN railway station, chestnuts, palms and cypresses. The Limonaia decorated with ancient and Renaissance Gioia stop), is the Frederick Stibbert has been restructured and now hosts public sculptures. Not to be missed, along the central house-museum, an exhibition pole devoted and private events (www.museostibbert.it). axis of the Italian-style gardens at the rear of the villa, are the Fountain of Hercules and Antaeus and the extraordinary Grotto of the Animals, originally embellished by spectacular water features, in the perfect simulation of a natural cave in which sculptural groups of animals made of multi-coloured marble are assembled. (www.accademiadellacrusca.it). North of Florence, around 13 km away (there are a number of buses that can take you there, departing from the centre; ask your concierge), is the green oasis of Pratolino Park (also known as Villa Demidof) recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The splendid villa, which was built in the 16th century and completed the complex, unfortunately no boggi.com longer exists, but many attractions remain, in addition to the enchantment of a luxuriant nature, large green spaces, dense woodland and extensive meadows offering itineraries The Stibbert garden FIRENZE | Via della Vigna Nuova 27 | Tel. +39 055 219.179 14 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018

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► MARIOLUCA GIUSTI This brightly coloured dish intended as a tribute to the summer season is part of the GIFT ‘Aimone’ orange tableware collection. Made of melamine by Florentine design house Mario Luca Giusti, it represents GUIDE Italian taste and style par excellence. mariolucagiusti.it ▲ POMELLATO Take advantage of a stroll The chic, essential personality of the iconic ring by through Florence to treat Pomellato, the ‘Nudo’, lives again in this pendant characterized by a ‘nude’ stone available in a variety yourself to an accessory, a of colours, including citrine quartz, light blue topaz fragrance, a jewellery item and London blue topaz. www.pomellato.com ▲ IL BISONTE or some other alluring Crafted in linen and cowhide leather, this transformable woman’s travel shoulder ® stylish detail. Where is called ‘Caramella’. It can be hand- brings you the pick of the held or worn as a shoulder bag by simply best seasonal trends and ◄ AQUAZZURA adjusting its side straps. Other features Adorned with a shiny include a double slide zip fastening and an guarantees that you inner zipped pocket. www.ilbisonte.com metallic cuff on the upper, ► ROLEX won’t leave empty-handed! the ‘Rendez Vous’ Sandal 50 The ‘GMT-Master’ was made for is a classic sandal with an those who love travel: not only Giulia Minero eye-catching upgrade. because of the possibility of Lifestyle & News The pair is crafted in Italy displaying the time in different Editor from supple specchio time zones, but also because of ® Where Italia leather in a mix of shimmery its solidity and versatility. Here the silver and gleaming gold, version with black dial and case and sits on a mid block and bracelet made of Everose Gold, heel for all-day comfort. an exclusive 18ct pink gold alloy www.aquazzura.com patented by Rolex. www.rolex.com

▼ GUCCI ‘Guilty Absolute’ eau ◄ ASPESI de parfum is created From a fine Italian brand, with a particular blend timeless style for informal combining notes of clothing, characterized leather and gilded ▼ EMILIO PUCCI by the use of exclusive wood with natural These sunglasses for her, with a sophisticated, avant-garde fabrics, essences of Nootka eccentric shape, are part of the 2018 summer the 2018 beachwear cypress. The result is collection. One of those elegant Emilio Pucci collection was made a fragrance with very accessories with unusual applications that give an for him. Here, the dry woody notes, extra touch of glamour, yet without losing any of that ▲HAVAIANAS ‘Stromboli’ costume with accentuated by three meticulous craftsmanship. www.emiliopucci.com Is it true that you shouldn’t wear flip-flops floral print, elasticized different types of in the city? Absolutely not! The original and waist adjustable with patchouli and vetiver authentic flip-flops have evolved into this drawstring. oil with an earthy espadrille design. The sole is still made of www.aspesi.com depth. www.gucci.com rubber, but the upper is made of canvas. The 11 colours available will delight everyone as they are combined with any outfit you can think of. www.havaianas-store.com

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seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, where you can purchase Palio di Siena the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied fruit and pepper. From this privileged observatory, dotted with with cypresses and farmhouses and still And a few kilometres from Siena, another villas, museums, archaeological excavations, encapsulate the essence of the most authentic town declared a World Heritage Site by churches and convents, you can enjoy Tuscany; they are far removed from the tourist UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its beautiful views of Florence and the routes, rich in traces and remains of ancient characteristic medieval architecture. It is the Florentine countryside. civilisations, picturesque medieval towns and unmissable San Gimignano, situated in the If you love panoramas, another unmissable culinary festivals. heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking spot is the small town of Settignano. round this small town, the 13th/14th-century The very famous Chianti zone, renowned THE BEACHES appearance of which is still practically for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of Although the Medici city is deep inland, there unchanged, is almost like going back in time. cypresses, olive groves, towns and abbeys are in fact various beaches that can be easily San Gimignano is famous above all for its built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car reached both by car and by train. The closest, medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at from the centre of Florence. If you are lucky the preferred destination of chic Florentines, one time and today are just fifteen, including enough to be there between September and is Forte dei Marmi, located in north-western

SHUTTERSTOCK some in ruins and without their tops but still November you can witness two key events for Tuscany, with its long well-equipped beaches, visible as part of the urban fabric. the economy and culture of the territory: the dotted with venues frequented by VIPs, Tuscany’s soft rolling hills harvesting of grapes and olives. fashion boutiques and exclusive nightspots. PHOTO © Not just Florence NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move Castiglioncello is known as “the pearl Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of the Tyrrhenian” on account of its and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is of the Crete Senesi. Located in the area breathtaking landscapes. Very easy to reach easy, both on foot and on the numerous south-east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, by train directly from Florence, the beach If Florence offers tourists f you choose Florence as your base, The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also buses departing from the city centre. Over the result of the continuous erosion of the at Quercianella, again in the province an unrivalled cultural and the good news is that around an hour be easily reached from Florence in about an the years the hill of Fiesole has been the sea sediments. These bare, softly undulating of Livorno, is excellent for lovers of the away by train, bus or car you will find hour by train. Loved by tourists from all over source of inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, hills, with their characteristic grey-blue colour Mediterranean maquis and perfect for historical heritage, its UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy the world for its peculiar tilt, the Tower of Pisa noble families, writers and entrepreneurs. and almost lunar appearance, are dotted diving and snorkelling enthusiasts. surrounding area no less so. countryside, natural thermal springs (see is in reality the bell tower of the Cathedral, Here are some suggestions page 49), medieval towns and abbeys which stands in a unique monumental andI kilometres of coastline for bathers. context, declared a UNESCO World Heritage for trips outside the city that Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. Once you’ve are able to satisfy any need. CITIES OF ART completed your visit to this unbelievable If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the square, if you have a little time left, you can For more details ask right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range relax with a walk along the Arno to the historic your concierge. from the Tuscan regional capital there are centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the political architectural wonders that will catapult you fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing onto the into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. square is Palazzo della Carovana, with graffiti About an hour by train from Florence is by Giorgio Vasari, which today houses the Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating Scuola Normale Superiore, one of the most historic centres, surrounded by ancient prestigious universities in the world. 16th-century walls, today still practically fully With a brief trip by coach from Florence you intact and walkable in their entirely. You can reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a centres in Italy, which is also included on tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s Chiara Zaccarelli benches. The picturesque historic centre has nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is Travel Editor remained almost intact, including countless renowned for its unique shell shape, for its SHUTTERSTOCK Where® Italia medieval churches, which have earned Lucca architectural integrity, and because twice a the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio San Gimignano Pier footpath promenade, beach and Apuane mountains in Forte dei Marmi Versilia Renaissance squares and buildings and di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental PHOTOS © Roman amphitheatres. importance for the Sienese, which sees the

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WELCOME TO FORTE DEI MARMI CULTI HOUSE A small, charming space in the centre of Forte dei Marmi, that expresses the spirit of the company and hosts all the collections footwear for more than forty years now, of home fragrances, from home diffusers to sprays, scented and Giovanni del Forte, who manufactures candles and car . Characterised by the same iconic hand-made clogs for VIPs and royal families, elements as the Milanese boutiques, such as maple wood or Principe di Firenze, a tailor’s shop of furnishings, glass shelving, suffused lighting, the boutique is a yesteryear, with its age-old charm and real “fragrance house” whose mission is to promote the Living bundles of precious fabrics. The nights, on Culture conceived thirty years ago: an original concept that the other hand, pass quickly, in fashionable translates into a stylistic and olfactive coherence, stimulating nightspots such as Twiga or the historic La the senses in a heady mix of design, art and perfume. Capannina di Franceschi, an iconic venue www.culti.com from the 1960s, which has made a powerful Via Carducci, 43. T: 0584 1848084. contribution to building up the iconography of the Forte dei Marmi of the period and still today, with all its highs and lows, it still succeeds in exciting. ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ Florentine designer Angela Caputi also has a shop in Forte dei A holiday in Forte dei Marmi revolves around Marmi with her brand Giuggiù. Her imaginative plastic jewellery rituals that seem eternal: on Wednesdays, for is inspired by the US movies of the early 20th century and indeed instance, there is the legendary market, and is much loved across the ocean (to the extent that some of her you can find everything there. The Market pieces are exhibited in the Metropolitan Museum Art in New at Forte dei Marmi is a genuine open- York). The boutique in Forte dei Marmi remains consistent Twiga Beach Club Forte dei Marmi air boutique where you can buy precious with the holiday spirit of the location and is designed with total fabrics or ceramics for your seaside home, white interiors. Here, in addition to the jewellery, it is possible but also leather goods, hats made of fine to purchase a selection of clothing items and accessories that straw and cashmere cardigans, all strictly complete the brand’s collections. The bikes, the scent of maritime pines, the period, when it became one of the most Made in Italy. It goes without saying that focaccine, the Wednesday market, the long glamorous holiday resorts in Italy and was you cannot expect to find neighbourhood www.angelacaputi.com. Via Stagio Stagi, 50 A/B. pier stretching into the sea, the historic invaded by VIPs and famous personalities, market prices, but quality, as we know, has to T: 0584 80705. beach clubs with their striped umbrellas the Milanese and Tuscan upper middle class be paid for. And then there are the focaccine, and the Liberty-style villas hidden away and “holidaymakers” hoping to have a little which, together with the bomboloni (cream in the shade of the pinewood. This, and stardust sprinkled on themselves. buns) are the snacks that symbolise summers PRINCIPE DI FIRENZE so much more, is Forte dei Marmi, the in Versilia. You can buy them unfilled at The history of Principe di Firenze is inextricably linked with seaside resort in the province of Lucca Today “Il Forte”, as the regulars call it, not the historic Focacceria Valè, or Da Orlando, Tuscany, and particularly with Florence, where it was founded that takes its name from the fort located in without a touch of self-congratulatory where they sell the filled versions. in 1930. The point of purchase in Forte dei Marmi also the town centre and from the marbles of snobbery, retains its own refined, hazy aura. remains faithful to that calm elegance of British inspiration the nearby Apuan Alps. Located around an Here, in the summer months, the days pass Luckily there are plenty of opportunities to that is the essence of the Principe di Firenze collections that hour and a half by train from Florence, but lazily, between the beach (no less than 5 burn a few calories: travelling around Il Forte are much loved by a certain type of cultured, sophisticated also reachable by bus (ask your concierge), kilometres long) and the pinewood. Among by bike is de rigueur (they can be hired from traveller. The own-brand tailored creations, which are suited since the early 20th century it has fascinated the historic establishments are the Silvio, to every occasion of the day, alternate with proposals for Cicli Maggi) but alternatively, above all if you women, men and children by major Italian brands. Here you industrialists such as the Agnelli and Siemens Piero and Annetta beach clubs, but more have young children, you can rent can also find accessories, scented candles, silverware and families and intellectuals such as Thomas recently fashionable new entry international a rickshaw and have fun breezing objects for the home. Mann or Luchino Visconti, to name just a clubs such as Nikki Beach (the one in Saint along the promenade. But few, also becoming a point of reference Tropez, in other words) are also doing well. Forte dei Marmi is also www.principedifirenze.com for European high society. The major In the late afternoon, before an aperitif at culture: every year, Via Carducci 1/3. T: 0584 89369. tourism boom occurred in the post-war Almarosa, frequented by footballers and in the months stars of the entertainment world, you can of July and go shopping in the boutiques in the town August, inside FEDELI SWIM & WEAR centre. And if you linger a while to watch the the large sunset from the beach, don’t worry, because In recent years Fedeli Swim & Wear, a colourful collection Versiliana of men’s swimming costumes by the historic Fedeli the shops stay open here till late evening in maritime Cashmere clothing firm, has embarked upon a process of the summer months. pine park, the retail expansion into the most prestigious Italian holiday festival of the locations. It is almost de rigueur, therefore, to have a shop All the major brands, from Gucci to Prada same name in the centre of Forte dei Marmi. The space, which is bright to Dolce&Gabbana, have shops at Il Forte, takes place, and minimalistic, stretches over an area of 75 sq.m. and is but there is also no shortage of multi-brand which includes structured around tones of white, to make the vitamin colour shops, such as Boutique Fiacchini, that stand concerts, shades of the shirts, polo shirts, swimming costumes and out for their choice of international labels. theatre plays eyewear of Fedeli Swim & Wear stand out. But the real gems are the historic shops, such and events of as the one belonging to Antonio Artigiano, various kinds fedeliswimwear.com who has been creating hand-crafted (C.Z.) Gucci Via Idone, 3/C. T: 0584 784128.

20 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 21 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM CLOTHING & Aspesi W The Guidelines M The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran H E O This directory, grouped by category, is a list of R . C ACCESSORIES Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant E T R R A V E L E establishments recommended by the editors of details and natural materials. His current collections Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Angela Caputi Giuggiù are still based on the original “no frills” philosophy The boutique offers an extraordinary selection and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold of clothing items for every type of woman. In without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. Women. at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the addition, hats, and other accessories from Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; coordinates on the street map (pages 62-63). all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. T: 055 287987.

and designer Angela Caputi chooses these articles Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from personally to combine with and complete her 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, elegant 287931. Map E4 the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open Mon-Sat on Sundays (except those located in central 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, Brunello Cucinelli Florence) and on Monday mornings. 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed Ask your concierge. up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian Anichini Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children generally included in the price of goods. Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder where skilled artisan hands create elegant items for Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the newborns, children and youngsters using the best TAX-FREE SHOPPING production of high-quality cashmere knitwear and Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible to vary » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to today boasts top-level production with total look the choice of fabrics, colours and details. A century- reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased men’s and women’s collections. Today it is seen as a old workshop of hand-crafting culture, located in and exported from the EU: before finalizing model enterprise all over the world for its support for 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www.anichini.net. Open a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant the dignity of work and craftsmanship, defining itself Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm- whether they are eligible for a tax refund. as “a humanistic company”. www.brunellocucinelli. 7.30pm. Via del Parione, 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: UnionPay Service Hotline: 055 285832. Map F3 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: [email protected]

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 9,000 merchants are located in Florence. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as the Rinascente department stores, The Mall, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to A new icon from Damiani provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. In the boutique in Via Tornabuoni, which was completely renovated a year ago, now is the time for DINING D.Icon “Pink Candy”, the summer’s most coveted ring. By Elena Binda Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as xactly a year ago, in summer 2017, design house’s summer collection, in which Among the obvious inspirations are “confetti”, a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include Damiani relaunched its presence the new D.Icon “Pink Candy” is the highlight, small traditional Italian sweets consisting the word “coperto”, a small surcharge E in the luxury Florentine street as it is one of the summer’s most fashionable of an almond coated in sugar. Each colour corresponding to the cost of the service and by presenting its boutique completely rings with incredibly wide appeal: youthful has a meaning: white for marriage, red for bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rethought and renovated. The two-storey and sophisticated, elegant and unusual. The graduation, and so on. And pink? It is used rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars Bianchi e Nardi new opening space, characterized by a highly spectacular rounded, easily recognizable shapes have to announce the birth of a woman. are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ The brand came about in this very place, in 1946. Back then it was just a small workshop, staircase, is located in the historical Palazzo already made D.Icon a cult collection for area is specifically offered. where two talented leather craftsmen produced bags made of precious leathers such as Gianfigliazzi in Via Tornabuoni, which dates jewellery lovers the world over. >> Damiani Boutique Firenze Set meals: prices are per person and usually crocodile, ostrich, python and lizard. Now that success has reached the third generation, refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). back to the 14th century. Over the years the collection, which includes Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r Bianchi and Nardi have opened their first single-brand store in the centre of Florence. € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / Among the elements of medieval origin, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings, has T: 055 290208 €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. Inaugurated during the most recent Pitti Uomo, the shop presents the entire new collection restored and appropriately highlighted, gradually added new colours: from classic www.damiani.com devoted to the elegant male universe: the soft matt crocodile doctor’s bag, which has now there are display cases, private rooms and black and white to the more fashionable SIGHTSEEING become iconic, takes its place alongside numerous other proposals in buckskin and ostrich, sales counters designed to offer the utmost “cappuccino” and “sugar paper” tones. The information provided on museums and prepared using increasingly eco-sustainable processes. monuments is verified as meticulously as confidentiality and comfort. So, last year Now, with D.Icon “Pink Candy”, a delicate possible. However, data such as telephone However, taking pride of place is the capsule collection for her in collaboration with Giannico, the boutique welcomed the general public pink tone is added to the range, and is numbers, opening hours, prices and the the brand by Milanese designer Nicolò Beretta that is really in the ascendant. A fantastic once again after the work was completed, available in the ring and pendant variants. accessibility of sites are all subject to change, top-handle, a micro-bag to wear as a necklace and a mini-bag to wear on the shoulder are reaffirming its presence in a location selected Ceramic meets gold and diamonds, in on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration the three unique pieces in this project, which came about to combine craftsmanship made work, museum loans or changes back in 1997. a piece that is both artisan and hi-tech, in Florence with an unprecedented, marvellously distinctive style. of management. Ask your concierge. Now, a year later, the space in Via Tornabuoni giving rise to a jewellery item with a bianchienardi1946.it. Via Vacchereccia, 15/r - Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 0750678. is the ideal setting for the presentation of the captivating new design. D.Icon “Pink Candy” ring

22 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 23 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Luxury Top Brands

ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat www.albertaferretti.com. Open daily 10am- 10am-7pm. Piazza della Signoria, 10. The extremely functional ‘Leisure’ bag by BRUNELLO 7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Fragrance & CUCINELLI made of light nylon with buffalo leather details. T: 055 212995. Map E4 Beauty Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun The ideal bag for sporting uses or short trips. 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 49. ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open T: 055 298181. Map F3 Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am- 7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am- Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. 2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm- Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. 7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 2670157. Map E4 T: 055 287931. Map E4 DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open Mon- MONCLER—www.moncler.com. BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. ‘Panthère’ by CARTIER with 18 carat yellow Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3 Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. gold case and crown with blue sapphire: Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. Map E3 T: 055 287931. Map E4 DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily both watch and jewellery at the same time. Sizing 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. T: 055 2669101. Map E3 daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. 75927010. Map F4 Women,s clothes 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. DOLCE&GABBANA— Map E3 Via della Vigna Nuova, 27. IT EUR US UK www.dolcegabbana.it HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Open Mon-Sat T: 055 219179. Map E3 PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 36 32 1 4 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Antinori, 6/r. 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. T: 055 287066. • 38 34 2 6 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40 36 4 8 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open Mon-Sat 53-67/r. T: 055 267471 Map E3 42 38 6 10 Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275. Map F4 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. 44 40 8 12 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open daily EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 2741013. 46 42 10 14 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 43-45. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Map E3 48 44 12 16 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. T: 055 9040100. Map E3 Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. Map E4 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. Open Map E3 — Women,s shoes daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Por Santa Maria, 70. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am- IT EUR US UK ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com T: 055 294909. Map F4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— 7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. 36 36 6 3 www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am- LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. T: 055 292123. Map E4 37 37 6.5 4 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16. 7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. 38 38 7.5 5 T: 055 285832. Map F3 T: 055 264254. Map E3 STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. 39 39 8.5 6 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- T: 055 2398688. Map E4 40 40 9 7 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. 7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via 41 41 9.5 8 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. T: 055 210856. Map F3 T: 055 2396786. Map E4 della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. T: 055 2670086. Map D3 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. Men,s clothes Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. Open daily Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am- Map E3 IT EUR US UK 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. 50 46 36 36 T: 055 293811. Map E4 7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Open T: 055 216227. Map F3 52 48 38 38 T: 055 212305 Map E3 Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. 54 50 40 40 CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open Mon-Sat TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. 56 52 42 42 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am- 58 54 44 44 Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. T: 055 219423. 7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. 60 56 46 46 T: 055 292347. Map E4 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). Map E3 T: 055 287761. Map F3 T: 055 2382883. Map F4 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Women. Men,s shoes MICHAEL KORS— GIORGIO ARMANI— Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. www.michaelkors.com. IT EUR US UK www.armani.com T: 055 293142. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am- 40 40 7.5 6 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- 7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. 41 41 8 7 2pm/3pm-7pm. NEW OPENING Via de’ T: 055 290284. Map F3 42 42 8.5 8 Tornabuoni, 83/r. T: 055 219041. 43 43 9 9 Map E3 MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 44 44 10.5 10 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. 45 45 11.5 11 GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat T: 055 215774. Map F4 46 46 12 12 Pink quilted nappa shoulder bag 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ GIORGIO ARMANI’s spring/summer 2018 runway show featured with Rockstud Spike chain by Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open Mon-Sat elegant outfits enhanced by fluid lines highlighted by chromatic VALENTINO GARAVANI. • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. 10.30am-7.30; Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. contrasts focusing on black and vibrant, bright lively colours. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open T: 055 2608931. Map F3

24 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 25 V A SI E S T E S E

CASTELLO SESTO FIORENTINO

SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A

S ILE A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E V APR S VI VIA XX

T A G. DUPRÈ E VIA DEL CHIUSO DEI PAZZI S E

I N A I L U I G O D L A N I G E R A I V V IA D E L L E PA N C H E

VIA ANDREA COSTA

VIA ANDREA COSTA

VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I VIA CARLO DEL GRECO Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

VIA PORTIGIANI Cattedrale di San Romolo BO SC ONI STRADA PROVINCIALE 54 DEI PIAZZA PIAZZA G.GARIBALDI MINO DA FIESOLE VIA MASSICINI V L. U C C H E S E

VIALE XI AGOSTO V VIA SANT’APPOLINARE

A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E I VIA S.CHIARA

A

V IA S A LV A D O R A L L E N D E F R À

VIALE SAN LUCA G VIALE GAETANO PIERACCINI I VIA GIULIO CACCINI O

AENTINA V A N N VIA F I

PONTE D A

F VIA DELLA BADIA DEI ROCCETTINI I NUOVO E VIA REGINALDO GIULIANI S VIA DELLE PANCHE O FIESOLE L ALLA E

D PIAZZA E Aeroporto T Amerigo VIA VECCHIA FIESOLANA T ENRICO O Vespucci PIGNONE

BADIA L MATTEI VIA MANTELLINI ' A N G E V AI P R A T E S E L I C PIZZERIA O V I A U G O C O R S I SAN DOMENICO V. DEL PONTE DI QUARACCHI Convento di San Domenico V. CUPOLA VIA MANTELLINI

VIABENEDETTO VIALE G. LUDER VIALE G.B. MORGAGNI

LLO STECCUTO VIA DE VIA FAENTINA VIALE ASTRONAUTI PIAZZA EUGENIO Stazione Firenze Rifredi VIA D EL PALAGIO DEGLI S PINI ARTOM DA MAIAN VIALE ASTRONAUTI VIA PANCIATICHI

VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI VIA RENATO FANTONI

VIA DELLE PANCHE I VIA D I CARRAIA VIALE XI AGOSTO V. ACCADEMIA CIMENTO O C C V I A A R T U R O F E R R A R I N V. S. STEFANO IN PANE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO U VIA DELL'OLMATELLO LG. DELLA T VIA D I CARRAIA LIBERAZIONE R V ANNI BOCCACCIO V I A P R A T E S E A I A V

M R E . G

I VIA GIO

N V. D. DEL GARBO VIA SETTEMBREI V

V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O G U I D O N I VIA ALMERICO DA SCHIO A

FACCIO LI L E VIALELUIGI GORI VIA MAGELLANO STID D V. CUPOLA VIA SAN DOMENICO V. ARI O

G TERZOLLE VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI I V. D .M IC H E L A C C I U VIA GUIDO BANTI L I V. F. BARACCA A N NI VIA CARLO DEL PRETE I UCCI MUGNONE

I VIA DI PERETOLA V. F. GEMINIANI Beata Vergine Maria Regina della Pace NTINA R PIAZZA Universtà VIA DEI CAPP VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA VIA VALDINIEVOLE Di Firenze AE O DALMAZIA VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO Ingegneria F PIAZZA VIALE GIOVAN BATTISTA MORGAGNI L V IA L E A L E S S A N D R O G U ID O N I VIA DEI VESPUCCI VALDELSA VIA

L V AI D IN O V O L I VIA SAN PIERO A QUARACCHI

A VIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II VIA BOLOGNESE V. GIARD. BIZZARRIA VIA VIRGILIO VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI RIFREDI . VIA CARLO DEL PRETE

A VIA O. VECCHI

V IA S A N D O M E N IC O TOSCANA VIA PISTOIESE . Palazzo di Giustizia di Firenze VIA DELLA TORRE DEGLI AGLI VIA DEL TERZOLLE V VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI V. M . M E R C AT I

VIA DEI CAPPUCCINI VIA DI MONTUGHI VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO IAZZUOLA TERZOLLE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIALE DELLA V. M A L P I G H I ELAL P VIA PISTOIESE PIAZZA Convento Frati Cappuccini D V. M AT T I O L I V. C U O C O VIA A P.TTA DEL TERZOLLE V. C I N O D VIA ORAZIO VECCHI Parco San Donato PIAZZA DELL'ELBA G. G. ARCHI VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI Chiesa Santa Maria Ausiliatrice Chiesa ASSAI San Francesco e Santa Chiara A V I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U CARACCIOLO F.V. P I S T O I A VIA PISTOIESE VIA SANDRO PERTINI VIA CARLO PISACANE Giardino V. B A R B E R I N O E L E I I Del Museo V. F. T. BARACCHINI Stibbert V. LUISA SANFELI

VIALE CORSICA VIA GUGLIELMO M V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

V IA F R A N C E S C O B A R A C C A E S E N G O L O B A I V Parco Pettini Burresi TOSCANA G. GIORGINI CE V. GUINIZZELLI VIA RIGUCCIO GALLUZZI

VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA VIA FAENTINA VIA PALA NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI VIA AND VIA DELL'ARCOVATA V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V AI V S. Antonio V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V da Padova al Romito PIETRO . F. COLA REA CO Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI LEOPOLDO TI S D'ORO RSALI T O R OI E M A N U E L EI TIBB V. VANNUCCI Centro Commerciale San Donato VIA PIERO CIRONI ERT V. F. G AI N N I V I A . G . F A B B R O N I VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio

VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DELLE FORBICI Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI G. BARTOLINI Villa Fabbricotti VIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R VIA TRIESTE TERZOLLE V I A G . B A R B E R A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA TINI PIAZZA MUGNONE VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA B R O N GIAMPIETRO VIA BEZZECCA ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi OFF V. F. CARACCIOLO V V I A L A VIA GAETANO MILANESI I A D I N O C O M P VIA SAN DONATO V I A T R E Parco Liceo V AI C G . U A S T I V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLE QUERCE Leonardo da Vinci V. O. DA PORDENONE VIA TRIESTE N IA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I Chiesa della B.V. M LARGO Madre della A G Divina Provvidenza CESARE Orti del Parnaso N I CO MUGNONE V IA M A R A G L IA N O CANTÙ

V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO VIA ANTONIO STOPPANI NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I PIAZZA LUDOVICO ANTONIO VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI V N D O M E N I VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I MURATORI SA Preziosissimo ANTI VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Sangue I A MUGNONE U G I A V I VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI Stazione Firenze Statuto Giardino V I A F A E N T I PIAZZA V V. G. dell'Orticoltura VIALE FRANCESCO REDI VIA FRANCESCO BONAINI FEB OXR A I A V I Villa il TOMMASO PIAZZA Ventaglio VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C ALVA EDISON V. I. NIEVO VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA VIA BOLOGNESE DELLE CURE C O I L Chiesa della UIDO CAVALC Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT I N I VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA RFA NA C SEPC IVOR I PIAZZA VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI VIA V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I VNES AIRN EI N I V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI D EASLO TATV I U TO D I GIACOMO PIAZZA A L I VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N I A PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O XAMV XI A G GO I V E VITTORIA VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I DAV I ER LO M TO I G A V IA M A R A G L IA N O V. TOSCANELLI VIA DELLE FORBICI U VIA A. GARBASSO G VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI PIAZZA VIA DELLA CERNAIA A VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI I U VIA FILIPPO PACINI SE V. A. MEUCCI V GALILEO VIA ANTONIO COCCHI S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O T MUGNONE FERRARIS VIA DEI CAIROLI O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Istituto Comprensivo Statale R I V V I A D E L G ONNA TOS VIA LEONARDO FIBONACCI H Sacro Cuore VIALE ALESSANDROV. VOLTAG. B. AMICI I I VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI L U C A G OI R D A N O A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI LARGO C .A V I V. MAD PONTE ROSSO

V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E V. A. NICOLODI PIETRO D Golf Club Parco Di Firenze V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A CAPEI E

Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena VIA A. BERTANI L AL N D VIA G. BANDI

VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON V. G. INGHIRAMI PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO V. A. PACINOTTI IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T RE DI SAN EOXL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O PA MARTIRI N S IACOPINO V. S. BOTTICELLI PIAZZA E A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI V AI M A S A C C I GIOVANNI G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA IA V IA C A S S IA SHOPPING ANTONELLISHOPPING V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO Giardino VIA D. MANTELLATE V AI V AI L E D E MI LI L E FARDELLA della Fortezza VI A DU DI TORREARSA P I V. G. MARCONI C E R V I A D E L A VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO VIA LUPI BONIF D’AO PRATELLINO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE C A P P O N VIA NINO BIXIO VIA CASTELFIDARDO as the common denominator. From the design to and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal PIAZZA using various styles. www.abacusfirenze.com. Open tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, Elena Mirò STA Stefano Ricci Chiesa di Sant'Agata V. VOLTURNOV Chiesa San Jacopino AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CAIROLI I A the wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamond- basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. Via photo albums, articles for theL E desk) in addition VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy VIALE SPARTACO LAVAGNINI PIAZZA Tailoring and Italian traditionVASARI “Made in Florence”, VIA SAN GALLO M I SAVONAROLA V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O setting, each piece is entirely hand worked. Open andACIO accessories for a total look that exudes class dei Macci, 50 (Santa Croce district). T: 345 3280318. to a line of classic leather accessories.A www. VIA G. PAISIELLO women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been with the purest male elegance as the watchword. O N VIA POGGI VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI IL VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V F daily 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. Via Porta and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat Map L4 ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open GiardinoMon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-VIA PIETRO MARONCELLI synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that VIA G. DOLFI These, in short, are the valuesV AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TAof G N O the company A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O O P V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V I Campo Di R A A S. CATERINA D'ALESSANDRIA Marte Rossa, 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pmV I A C A V O U R c/o Rinascente- 7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Via C. Cavour, 49/r. ET: 055 VI V IA G U S T A V O M O D E N A Chiesa VIAPIO FEDI PIAZZA G enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, VIA DELLE RUOTE founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E U Nostra Signora D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI Antico Setificio Fiorentino I D del Sacro Cuore Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. 6499151. MapStadio G1 O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI refined and ever new style. From dresses to which, now in its second generation, has become a Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI O Luisa Via Roma The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great VIA ROSOLIN Franchi MONTIGNANO Map F3 F Mouterwear, from trousers to accessories, to successful international group. From clothing (jackets, Chiesa dei Sette Santi MULTIBRANDV. C. STORE Founded in the early V IA V E N E Z IA VIA BARTOLOMMEI Giardino tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, Pitti Mosaici A O VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFONSO LA MARMORA V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI beachwear,N the brand expresses the pleasure ofVIALE FILIPPO STROZZI suits and high-fashion sports items, but also shirts N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisa Via Roma is a Société Anonyme thanks also to its famous warping machine based Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite A VIA DELLA FORTEZZA VIA DEI SETTE SANTI BAMBINE E BAMBINI EGLI ARTISTI T VIA GIUSEPPE SIRTORI dressingC a woman’s shape with style. www.elenamiro. landmark for lovers ofPIAZZA fashion and luxury the world An independent shop of North-European and ties) to jewellery,Cimitero from leatherwear to perfumes on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine I O DI BESLAN V AI M A S A C C OI INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIER ANTONIO MICHELI della Misericordia Passerella dell'Isolotto com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. over. A global powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 conceptionS. Giovanni inspired by the underground and theVIA DSR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N dei Cavalieri workshop has been producing some of the most tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and VIA MASSA Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 2657725. Map F3 Ricci represents Italian excellence all over the world, million visitors a month, its Florence store also offers atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoodsGiardino of VL. T. MAMIANI V AI M A N N E L L I sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E VIA SAN GALLO making production entirely hand-made by qualified VIA CITTADELLA a digitalized purchasing experience: instead of London, Berlin and New York (the name is a homage lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www. toV AI L E Pprovide A S Q U A L E P A O L I coverings for walls, framed items and GiovanniVIA LUIGI ALAMANNI Raspini V AI A D N O F L A V A I V Giardino DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI LG. PORTA di Valfonda VIA DEL PRATELLOdisplaying the garments, they have been replaced to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy Guggenheim, who Italian craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the In the beating heart of the fashion district, the P EI R C A P P O N I anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Mon-Fri furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style Teatro dell’Opera LEOPOLDA A Z N E A F A I V withV IA interactiveG U E L F A installations. Don’t miss the elegant founded an avant-gardeGiardino art gallery in New York values of the manufacturing tradition and the roots boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in V. MONTANELLI dei Semplici 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via L. Bartolini, 4. of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. calledConvento Société Anonyme in the 1920s). Located of the territory,VIA inGIAMBOLOGNA 2010 the firm acquired the Antico VIA PIO FEDI Valdichiana (between Siena, and Florence) is di San Marco VIA G.LA PIRA T: 055 213861. Map B3 entire made-to-measure residential projects all over VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RATA Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPPONI V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. in the literary artistic district of Sant’Ambrogio, Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized REPA the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat LO VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO PORTA AL L Galleria Romanelli V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. it offers labels of international renown and niche Frediano district that has produced precious fabrics LARGO V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE San Barnaba SAN MARCO since 1786 and todayV AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI still uses the original ancient The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down PIAZZA T: 055 9064116. Map F3 SAN GA brands, as well as its own men’s and women’s Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE VIA SANTA VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI 055 282127. Map E6 VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality,PIAZZA often VIA DELL'ARCOLAIO SAN BARTOLOMEO VIA V AI M A S A C C OI Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat precious sculpture artwork for six generations in B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited EM U I F A I V collection that is only sold in-store and online. www. AL GIGNORO Marina Rinaldi V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni-ViaVIA IACOPO dei NARDIPescioni, 1. one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of Richard Ginori 1735 Palazzo Corsini sul Prato edition - silverware, objects for the home, hand- societeanonyme.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm;Chiesa A R N O San Jacopo di Ripoli Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFREDO FANTI VIA DEI FALCUCCI di Firenze T: 055 210856. Map E3 Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, Tradition and excellence in the high-qualityVL. E. CIALDINI crafted white bronze creations, always having a style Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 3/f corner Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Chiesa Casa di Riposo degli Inglesi a meeting place for buyers and artists, where artistic manufacture of porcelain. The Richard episcopale americana of viaGalleria della dell’Accademia Mattonaia,PIAZZA 24/a/b/c/d. (Sant’Ambrogio BORGO PINTI that isdella midway Beata between minimalism and classicism ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI range of collections, featuringMERCATO both contemporary V IA D E G L IA L F A N I V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico sculptors and their students carry out their workV AI L E M A L T A CENTRALE SANTISSIMA Ginori “artistic factory”, of 18th-century origin, V.Z VIA DE’GINORI District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3 V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO Stazione Ferroviaria ANNUNZIA DEPARTMENT STORES VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA still produces accessories for the table and living V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella VIA DELL’ARIENTO Nelson Mandela Forum E P E M A Z Z I N I LI ORI Rinascente Work is done by commission on original sculptures, room and works of art in its Doccia Factory (20 km VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI OC IN Spedale degli Innocenti VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO V AI S O L F E R NI O SO degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A CD AME LAG RDPV OI ' N In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and DELLA STAZIONE A V I A C A V O U R from Florence) using ancient VIAworking MILAZZO techniques. VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI V AI M A S A C C OI Luxury shopping D E ’ to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli.com. Open COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB . L DEI NELLI VIALE GIUSEP Italian style and international trends. www. V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VIA V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E na da Palazzo ateri V I A R I C VIA DEI SERVI .C iena Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A C O L O N N A home and design items. For women, proposals Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, S Medici Riccardi O S da Museo I richardginori1735.com. Open Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . P. DI MADONNA C BORGO PINTI V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I V C PIAZZA VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci VIALE MANFREDO FANTI L’ISOLOTTO V. DEGLI AVELLI Basilica A V AI D E G L IA L F A N I VIALE BERNARDO SEGNI V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO of the best Italian and international brands range 70. T: 055 2396047. Map C4 L Thurs-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 12 noon-6.30pm. Via ei VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI

VIA DEL R. FIORENTINO R. DEL VIA di San Lorenzo SAN E VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ G O R I T VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI Basilica di LORENZO S VIA GIORDANI L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I Santa Maria Novella VIA D A from the classic to the contemporary and for men VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO C PIAZZA Rondinelli, 17/r. T: 055 210041. Map E2 V I A P I G N O N E L V I A D E ’ V A N N I Ponte della Vittoria VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI E’ E Leone Cei & Sons Teatro D Università VIALE EDMONDO DE AMICIS V I A VIA LIBERO ANDREOTTI VIA DEL SANSOVINO Santa C MASSIMO D'AZEGLIO VIA PANZANI ONTI degli Studi di Firenze from formal to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of PIAZZA V. S. LUCIALucia O Pucci VIA GIOVANNI BOVIO Z VIA PALESTRO VIA DELL'ALBERO Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in VIA MARSALA P. BATONI sul Prato Torchio (Il) VI A DELL’ALLORO OLI Chiesa reference for luxury shopping and for new brands, Polimoda Santa Maria V IA D E L L A S C A L A VIA DEL GIGLIO dressing tables, appliqués,Parrocchiale consuls, chairs and VIA ZANETTI AN LOREN CAS Maddalena dei Pazzi VIA ANTONIO SCIALOJA V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI PIAZZA Teatro exclusive products and the unveiling of innovations. Sacro Cuore Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting VIA FERDINANDO MARTINI V I A G I O V A N N I A N T O N I O S O G L I A N I VIA MONTEBELLO PIAZZA VIA DE’Niccolini MARTELLI armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique V I A R I TADDEO GADDI B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I SANTA ORGO S VIA DEL MEZZETTA V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O B VIA DEI SERVI tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products IA DE’ CONTI There is a Food Market on the fourth floor with VIA CIRO MENOTTI MARIA V VIA DEI BANCHI models from a rare and abundant archive. The VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI VIA BRONZINO NOVELLA LO FARINI gourmet products made in ItalyVIALE GIUSEPPE and MAZZINI a selection of with refined materials such as Florentine leather, V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E L A I V V AI M A N N E L L I LI Santa Maria della V. G . B . N I C C O L I N I production, entirely made in Florence, is destined VIAL. MAITANI INEL Battistero D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also V. DELLA CASA Pergola excellent international products, while the Terrace VIA GIAMBATTISTA VICO VIA DELLE VIABELLE DONNE di San Giovanni Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di V. DEL TREBBIO NA for private homes, hotels and private clubs all over VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA Santommaso Tempio Maggiore VIA BRONZINO DEI RON LUIGI CAR devising new artisan articles with contemporary Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo V. D'aquino VIA DEI PILASTRI A Israelitico with café-bar (T: 055 283612) offers a spectacular 360°PIAZZA VI Sinagoga VIA CAPO DI MONDO V. DEL GIGNORO Antinori VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI the world. The carving, gilding, burnishing and VIA DI MELEGNANO PINTI GUGLIELMO VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti V. CAMPANELLA materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. VIA DEL MEZZETTA VIALE ETRURIA L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A Chiesa FIESOLA panoramic view of the city’s main landmarks V. FRA' SARPI Chiesa dei V. DELL'ORIUOLO VIA SANT'EGIDIO di San A OBERDAN VIA DEL SOLE Santi Michele I VIA G. LEOPARDI VIA PIETRO COLLETTA lacquering work is performed rigorously by hand PIAZZA V VIA TITO SPERI Paolino V.CANONICA com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat e Gaetano VIA

VIA GIOVANNI ANTONIO DOSIO ECCHIETTI www.rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun V A AMI . A N Z O N I ROMA OSUE' CARDUCCI V I A L U C A L A N D U C C I DI SAN V V. I VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO A V I A P I S A N A V. DEI CORSI BONIZZI V. DEL CAMPIDOGLIO VIA DEI TOSINGHI following traditional procedures and using natural I VIA DELLE OCHE VIA DELLA SPADA DELLO B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I B O R G O VIA DEI PEPI G V 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055SALVI 2342862. IA 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. VIA DEL PORCELLANA VIA DI MEZZO MATTONAIA LUNGARNO AMERIGO VESPUCCI O V

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T O RO P. SAN VIA PIETRAPIANA of fabrics still produced on ancient looms or limited

REPUBBLICA P PIER VETTORI V. M Chiesa di San Pietro a Monticelli V I A P I S A N A E I PIER

CHI A R N O Palazzo L ARTIRI VIA DEI FEDERIGHI P. DEGLI MAGGIORE Loggia BORGO LA CROCE D JEWELLERY & WATCHES P. DEI V. GIORDANO BRUNO A D E I FINE ART Strozzi DEL POPOLO VIA ANTONIO SCIALOJA Chiesa STROZZI TRE RE ER del Pesce editions, or produced on request and based on VIA DELLA VIGNA NUOVA DE VIA DEL PURGATORIO VI VIA Di San Bartolomeo VIA DELL'ANCONELLA VIA DEGLI ANSELMI P. DEI SGC FIRENZE - PISA - LIVORNO PIAZZA IA

E I C VIA DELL'ULIVO PIAZZALE V PIAZZA PIER VIA PISANA a Monte Oliveto GOLDONI CIOMPI customers’ designs. Qualified consultancy service VIA DEI PARIONE VIA TAVOLINI I VIA ANTONIO DEL POLLAIOLO Loggia dell’ D VIA DANTE VIA DEI PANDOLFINI Abacus Porta alla Croce Alessandro Dari VIA DEL GUARLONE

V I A M A S O L I N O A Orsanmichele P. LORENZO V. V. DA BISTICCI ZIN DELLA V. DELL’INFERNO D Palazzo P. PIETRO

L DELLA LUNGARNO SODERINI Arte della Lana VIA VIA DEL PIAGGIONE Palazzo San Carlo GHIBERTI ANNIGONI provided on antiquesV I A S Cand I P I O N Eon A M Mthe I R A Treproduction O of GAZ Badia Borghese UNIQUE VIA LAMBERTI Housed in the 15th-centuryVIA DI SAN SALVI Palazzo FEDERIGA Porta San Frediano Palazzo Corsini delle dei Lombardi PIAZZA A BINDERY A workshopPIAZZA producing precious FRANCESCA V I A D I M O N T E O L I V E T O DEI CERCHI Fiorentina VIA GHIBELLINA Mercato di MONA al Parione Poste M I Museo Ponte E VIA FRA' PAOLO SARPI VIA S. ONOFRIO Sant'Ambrogio CESARE BECCARIA period items. www.leonecei.com. Headquarters &

VIA BORGO SAN FREDIANO LUNGARNO CORSINI VIA PELLICCERIA D del Bargello CAVALCAVIANasi-Quaratesi, DELL'AFFRICO the “Museum Shop” of master alla Carraia O R O N G I G L E D A I V

V. bindings. The raw materials, such as “Acid Free” V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O VIA FERDINANDO PAOLIERI V I A V I N C E N Z O G I O B E R T I Palazzo Bartolini Palazzo VIA PORTA ROSSA VIA DELLA CONDOTTA VIA VIGNA VECCHIA VI A VINCENZO CHIARUGI V I A P I S A N A Basilica di Salinbeni Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. VIA DEL PARIONCINO Teatro Verdi goldsmith Alessandro Dari has an area used to AM V. D. VENEZIANO Santa Trinita Davanzati Loggia del VIA GIUSEPPE VERDI paper, 100% cotton or leather Chiesawith vegetable PIAZZA L O V I PIAZZA O IT VIA DI MONTE OLIVETO Chiesa L VC.PANICO V. DEL LA BURELLA VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO VIA EL VIA PIERO DI COSIMO VIA Porcellino V. CALIMARUZZA DI SAN FIRENZE VIA DEI PEPI Cattolica Parrocchiale G R LI S. Frediano SO D PIAZZA I DE EL Santi V IA D E L F IC O V I A G H I B E L L I N A Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 LEON PIAZZA AS PIAZZA VIA DELL'ANGUILLARA S. Maria Degli Angeli exhibit his precious works and another used as an SO LE T Chiesa in Cestello Museo IC tanning or hand-dyed using ancient methods and I PARTE BAR Simone e Giuda VIA BENOZZO GOZZOLI L VIA TORTA R ERME DELLA SIGNORIA Palazzo DE’ NERLI M GUELFA O BATTISTA Parrocchiale Santissimo Salvatore O Complesso O V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O V I A D E L L A C H I M E R A RDA VIA VACCHERECCIA SS Gondi VIA DE 2396039. Map D3 Croci sso a Monticelli BORGO SAN FREDIANO Ferragamo IO di San Firenze I IA artistic workshop where jewellery and decorative F Chiesa VIA GIACOMO ZANELLA A V.D.B natural waxes, are all selected with care. All the PACCI D ALBERTI VIA PISANA D. CH LL'ANGUILLARA VIA DEIV. SANTI APOSTOLI R della VIA S. GIOVANNI LUNGARNO GUCCIARDINI V I A A R E T I N A BORGO DEI GRECI O Archivio di Stato Sacra Famiglia C VIA CA objects are developed, including one-off items and PIAZZA Palazzo Vecchio V. GIOVANNI DA VERRAZZANO phases are supervised in the workshop: from the VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO NTA MARI C Papiro (Il) Santi Apostoli A DEI SALTERELLI Loggia LUNGARNO DEGLI ACCIAIOLI A CH S BELLOSGUARDO IASSO DEI VIA DELLA NINNA T An teatro e Biagio dei Lanzi VIA CORNO PIAZZA DI V I A L E A L E A R D O A L E A R D I N V I A G H I B E L L I N A V I A G I O T T O themed collections. Some of his works are displayed VIA DEL LEONE

V I A M A S O D I B A N C O VIA LUDOVICO ARIOSTO E Romano folding of the sheets by hand to the delicate phase Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces

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’ VIA VINEGIA VIA DELL’ORTO Santa Trinita VIA DEL LEONE V BORGO ALLEGRI BORGO DELLA STELLA BORGOVIA SANTO DEI GEPPI SPIRITO V IA D IS A N G IU S E P P E ICI at the nearby Treasury of the Grand Dukes in Palazzo Palazzo ELL PIAZZA T of hand stitching, to the application of the cover D . objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine V I A P I S A N A Santo Stefano S V I A D I M O N T E O L I V E T O Gucciardini VI VIA DI SOFFIANO DEL CARMINE V.d. MAGALLOTTI al Ponte RU Torre degli Amidei PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA DEI NERI EI Palazzo della Missione Uzi VIA DEI MACCI VIA DELLE CASINE PIAZZA DEL PESCE VIA GIROLAMI DEL GRANO A D CHE Basilica di V I A A R E T I N A LU VI V IA P IE T R O T H O U A R VIA DOMENICO BURCHIELLO DE' FRESCOBALDI NGARNO NTO San Remigio BRA VIA DEI BENCI Santa Croce di Firenze VIA SANTA MONACA Chiesa VIA DELL'ORCAGNA V. GHERARDO STARNINA A Chiesa V I A F R A ' G I O V A N N I A N G E L I C O San Jacopo AR LLE V I A G I O V A N N I L A N Z A PIAZZALE DEGLI UFFIZI E Ponte Vecchio CH ELLANI Evangelica San Giuseppe D CHI IB A Palazzo USIERI VIA DE Metodista VIA DEL GHIRLANDAIO BORGO SAN IACOPOP.TTA DEGLI AST VI Cappella Pazzi VIA DELL'OLIVUZZO Macchiavelli VIA DELLO SPRONE C BE VIA DI CAMALDOLI VIA DEI SERRAGLI TERIA d. GU I N Chiesa di ANGIOLIERI OSCA ERI BORGO SANTA CROCE VIA ● M LIA Santa Maria del Carmine Cassetti Boutique V. OS VIA SANT’AGOSTINO VIA DEI SAPONAI VIA E VIA MAFFIA VIA DEI VAGELLAI VIA DI ROCCA TEDAL DA I V I A D E I M A L C O N T E N T I VIA DEL LEONE PIAZZA Parrocchiale S. Antonino A Bellariva MAG VIA ALESSIO BALDOVINETTI SIN VIA PIAGENTINA DEI GIUDICI NC Basilica di Santo Spirito VI A D EI BARBADORI C O R A V. DEI VELLUTINI Rolex PIAZZA VIA V. LUNGARNO GENERALE DIAZ MALENCHINI, A. S O D E I T I N T O R I C PIAZZA MENTANA VIA DI V.SCANDICCI DUCCIO BUONINSEGNA VIA DE BARDI E V I A A R N O L F O V VIA VIA TOSCANELLA Biblioteca Nazionale TORQUATO TASSO IA DEI VELLUTI VIALE DELLA GIOVINE ITALIA V I A A R E T I N A PIAZZA ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ V. SPRONE Giardini di Bellariva Centrale di Firenze DELL Santi Vito e Modesto SANTA FELICITA PIAZZA DI SANTA VIA DEI BE VIA DELLA CHIESA MARIA SOPR'ARNO IA VIA D'ARDIGLIONE A R N O PIAZZA V In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building V. M. MINGHETTI SANTO SPIRITO L U N G A R N O D E L L E G R A Z I E V I A T R I P O L I VIA DE' GUICCIARDINI Chiesa PIAZZA DEI V IA QUINTIN O SELLA VIA DELLA BELLARIVA VIA DEL CAMPUCCIO PIAZZA PIAVE San Felicita V I A CAVALLEGGERI SDRUCC. DEI PITT FRANCESCO DE SANCTIS V I A E N R I C O D E N I C O L A COSTA DEI MAGNO LUNG known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the D E B A R D I LUNGARNO DELLA ZECCA VECCHIA V IA D E L F IL A R E T E C O ARNO TORRIGIANI Torre della Zecca ST Ponte VIA GAETANO PILATI V. DEL MADONNONE A SAN Palazzo VIA MAGGIO VIA TOSCANELLA alle Grazie Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO I Guadagni VIA DEL CAMPOFIORE LUNGARNO PECORI GIRALDI V I A G N VIA MAZZETTA I O of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. R N GIO LI L U N G A R N O D E L T E M P I O CASELLINA V. DEI PRETI V. MARSILI V IA F A B R IZ IO D E A N D R E E VIA DI BELLOSGUARDO VIA DI S. FRANCESCO DI PAOLA VIA DEL PRESTO DI SAN MARTINO VIA VILLANI Ex monastero Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by TA S N S C A A R N O L.CRISTOFORO COLOMBO VIA GIANOVIA DELLA BELLA delle Convertite (1330) PIAZZA O R LUNGARNO CRISTOFORO COLOMBO VIA GE NERALE CARLO ALBERTO DALLA CHIESA C P U C PIAZZA international customers, are genuinely unique pieces O C S E C N A R F A C R A R T E P E L A I V C DEI PITTI I A L U N G A R N O S E R R I S T O R I O Chiesa di V I A DE’ R VIA DEL CAMPUCCIO San Felice D E B A R D I MOZZI of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique T in Piazza VIA DEI RENAI VIA DELLE CALDAIE Palazzo Pitti PIAZZA I E COSTA P GIUSEPPE Ponte it is also possiblePonte to purchase a selection of clothing items E L U N G A R N O C E L L I N I B E N V E N U T O San Niccolò Giovanni da Verrazzano L S POGGI I A Teatro Goldoni AN GIORGI V V I A R O M A N A S. Niccolò Sopr'Arno and accessories that complete the brand’s collections.

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VIA IPPOLITOVIA PINDEMONTE VIA DI BELVEDERE PIAZZALE VIA NICCOLO' DA UZZANO

Giardino di Boboli OLIN V I A D I V I L L A M A G N A

VIA ERTA CANINA ERTA VIA MICHELANGELO Giardino dell'Iris PONTE A VARLUNGO

SAN NICCOLO’VIADEIB WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 O I www.wheretraveler.com 26 VIA RICORBOLI V I A C O L U C C I O S A L U T A T I 27

PIAZZA V I A D E L L E N A Z I O N I U N I T E O N A I C S U R I D A I V VIA L V V. G. BANDE NERE DE . GAVINANA G.

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A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE UNIQUE IN FLORENCE SHOPPING OFFICINAOTTICA MANTOVANI PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA SMN centre, where qualified Rolex technicians are available The oldest pharmacy in Europe (1221), it is to look after the precious timepieces. www.cassetti. housed in a part of a Dominican convent it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 complex. Its products (perfumes, beauty 2741044. Map F5 products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets Tiffany & Co. and chocolates) are sold all over the world Located in the luxury shopping street par and represent a production par excellence excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is on account of their quality raw materials and Practical and stylish, this soft housed in one of the most beautiful Palazzi in centuries-old handicraft techniques. hammered calfskin the city. There is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion collections, such as ’Tiffany by CUOIERIA FIORENTINA, City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest www.smnovella.com 100% Made in Italy, has a large front diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, design Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. pocket with zip closing. creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. Pitti. www.alessandrodari.com. Open Mon-Sat Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Map C4 LEONE CEI & SONS 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via San Niccolò, Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4 Since 1902, an exceptional firm specialising in 115/r. T: 055 244747. Map G6 Ugo Poggi Dodo dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and It came about in Florence in the early 20th Angela Caputi Giuggiù The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by century as a producer of silverware, porcelain, armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or glassware and furnishings. After a century, now models from a rare and abundant archive. throughout the world. Sophisticated, original collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm in its third generation, today the brand proposes The production, entirely made in Florence, is creations made from unusual materials such as pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. a sophisticated production of luxury Florentine destined for private homes, hotels and private plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects www.dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun hand-crafted items for the home: from precious clubs all over the world. Qualified consultancy both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. crystal chandeliers to bone china crockery, to a service provided on antiques and on the have been used as accessories by famous television T: 055 2741573. Map E4 precious selection of antique silverware. No longer and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, just internally produced furnishing accessories, but reproduction of period items. Fani Gioielli capable of creating a look or dressing up any type also historic Italian and top quality international Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and brands. www.ugopoggifirenze.com. Open Mon Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com. Shop and 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, www.leonecei.com and luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of workshop: Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm- 26/r. T: 055 216741. Map E3 Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 2396039. 7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of • Boutique: Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm- prestigious jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Vacheron Constantin Boutique 7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex In the unique and exclusive setting that is Map F4 and Tudor retailer. www.fanishops.it. Open Mon Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via watchmaking design house in the world, founded GALLERIA ROMANELLI Annamaria Cammilli de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3 in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, also known for the tabernacle with a painting of the It has been handing down precious sculpture Massai Orafi it has been present with its creations in shop Madonna with Child and Saint John that marked artwork for six generations in Borgo San Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith windows and display cases all over the world for the presence of an ancient oratory of the Holy Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of Frediano. An artistic workshop, a meeting over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, Sepulchre, which came under the control of the Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of place for buyers and artists, where sculptors unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. www. the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made and their students carry out their work daily rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines EDITOR’S TIP 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5 www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; and others besides. A visit to Work is done by commission on original the workshop is a unique experience: on the top sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4 floor of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 LEATHER marble and restorations. years master goldsmiths have practised the ancient Cuoieria Fiorentina Aprosio fretworking, carving and engraving traditions typical From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and of the Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi. the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical www.raffaelloromanelli.com creates jewellery accessories and products for it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle of this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047. decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4 products are created with extreme care and top- and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open quality natural materials. A vast range of leather Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. Officine Panerai , travel bags and accessories (belts, T: 055 210127. Map E2 Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts , …), for him and for her, offering LA MÉNAGÈRE Cassetti 1926 a unique design and a strong identity that Spanish excellent value for money. Another strong point is A delightful concept store that includes a In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working the personalization of the products, organised to Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both with the idea of the “art workshop”. A space on the satisfy the tastes and requirements of customers, shop with design objects for the home, a fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a first floor is devoted to special sales and another is who can count Michelle Obama among their florist’s, in addition to a restaurant and a studio that develops innovative projects with its own reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the number. www.cuoieriafiorentina.it. Open Mon-Sat bistro. Located right in the city centre, in the artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am- historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Nicola, 11. T: 055 space that was once occupied by the first 7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and 6505091. Off Map Florentine household item shop, it combines Map F5 share his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. Gianni Chiarini industrial and recycled materials and design www.panerai.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression Damiani 11am-7pm. Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. objects for a contemporary result with a of ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a Map F2 romantic touch. long goldsmithing tradition which it has always contemporary bags and accessories, with an idea interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 of pure design. A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte brand, but at the same time sophisticated, which www.lamenagere.it spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: the has its roots in the heart of Florentine beauty. Via de’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three display giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and tables; the first floor has two rooms for reserved sales; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3 admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com. the second floor has a fully equipped customer care

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ASPESI AQUAZZURA DR. VRANJES See page 25. See this page. See this page.

Il Bisonte La Ménagère The Merchant of Venice Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store of NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion around 1500 square metres that includes a shop with range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in design objects for the home, a florist, in addition to completed by products for personal care, for the Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city environment and accessories. The essences are hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, centre, in the space that was once occupied by the contained in packaging with designs inspired by the diaries, belts and other accessories epitomising first Florentine household item shop, it combines glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the In the heart of Florence, the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key industrial and recycled materials and design objects single-brand store provides a personalized layering just a few steps away focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. service. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned www.lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am. Via de’ Mon-Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed- from the historic treasures of the city, leather which has the advantage of improving with Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1 Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. T: 055 you will find Rinascente: the ideal place age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: 216559. Map E3 Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. Marioluca Giusti to find the best in fashion, accessories, T: 055 215722. Map E4 A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant Valli Tessuti Alta Moda design objects for the table and more besides, in a A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele beauty, home and design. style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most And don’t miss the top floor with the PASSION SHOPPING glass and melamine collections are enhanced every beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries AquaFlor year with new models with colour shades ranging a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to Terrazza bar & restaurant. A perfume shop with the charm of past times, from white to black to transparent, to brighter colours make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture such as fluo. Its products are particularly appreciated attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts of perfumes made using natural and rare raw by important international personalities such as the and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm- materials, personalisable through the choice of Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, 7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. 81/r. T: 055 282485. Map D3 fragrances. A studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - www. Its boutiques are characterized by total white walls Shoppers will find items of the best Italian more mouth-watering sweet and savoury >> Rinascente aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm- with niches where the accessories are exhibited, as in SHOES and international brands. A large area culinary delights, all distinct for choice www.rinascente.it 7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. T: 055 2343471. a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por Santa is devoted to women’s fashion which ingredients and exquisite packaging. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Map H5 Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, Aquazzura Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the includes a vast and prestigious range in both All products at the Food Market can be Piazza della Repubblica. Map F3 Dr. Vranjes Sun 11am-7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via della Vigna luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a classic fashions as well as the latest trends. packaged in one of our elegant Gift boxes. Home fragrances and elegant furnishing Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. T: 055 219113 typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with Special attention is also given to men’s wear Should you need some advice, you can accessories made by hand in Florence for more Map D3 modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura shoes than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, where shoppers can choose from formal make an appointment with one of our Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa and the headquarters of the Florentine home European royalty and fashion insiders around the attire to smart casual wear. personal shoppers that are at your disposal Maria Novella fragrance company founded and managed by globe. www.aquazzura.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in every day to help you put together a the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo- The constant arrival of new brands, unique fantastic food hamper. cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Map D4 Maria. In addition to the traditional production Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican commodities and the latest products convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has been of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the STATIONERY exclusive to Rinascente makes the store the On the top floor you can enjoy a spectacular brand has diversified its production with linen, open to the public for over four centuries (since 1612). focal point for your high-end shopping in view of the Duomo while having a drink at la cosmetics, perfumes and gift boxes, also giving Its products (perfumes, beauty products, medicinal Pineider a strong Florentine identity to the packaging, herbs, herbal teas, sweets and chocolates) are sold all Artisan savoir faire since 1774 in the universe of the city. Terrazza bar & restaurant: at lunch you can inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes.it. Open over the world in 75 single brand stores and represent paper, writing and leather goods. Tradition and enjoy a menu that includes pasta dishes of a production par excellence on account of their quality Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7pm. design are the distinctive features of this brand, The Food Market on the fourth floor is the day, the renowned pappa al pomodoro Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • Open raw materials and centuries-old handicraft techniques, which is unique worldwide: from the printing of Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via della with the aid of modern technologies. The frescoed precious and embossed paper to articles made of a space dedicated to the best Made in (tomato bread soup), Caprese salad, Niçoise Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3• Open Mon monumental environments - Sales Room, Green Room, fine leather, to elegant writing instruments. Italy gourmet food and a selection of the with tuna, boiled egg and Greek olives with 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm- Ancient Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned www.pineider.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. most sought-after international produce. cucumber, feta cheese and black olives, 7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: to their former splendour thanks to restoration work. Piazza de’ Rucellai, 4-7/r. T: 055 284656. The choicest pasta, delicious sauces, tasty raw meat and fish, sandwiches with fresh 055 241748. Map l3 www.smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della Map E3

Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2 SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE appetizers, luxurious chocolates and many ingredients and seasonal produce.

30 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 31

[ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

LUGANO best local food and wines are on offer. MENDRISIO Open daily 10am-8pm. BERGAMO BRESCIA • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana NOVARA TRIESTE Florence, in MILANO Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t TORINO FERRARA and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to PIACENZA MAR Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GENOVA Castel GuelfoADRIATICO BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfigher, Under Armour FORTE destinations and many others. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI MAR LIGURE LUCCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet PISA the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIA playground, the possibility of recharging your SAN GIMIGNANO? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of SIENA ?Outlet Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it PERUGIA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.ROMA Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives TIRRENO direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectNAPOLI bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door by Value Retail and one of The Bicester Village office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Shopping Collection® Villages: a place where • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. hospitalitySARDEGNA makes the shopping experience Valdichiana Outlet Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance memorable. The Village is located in the Emilia- With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footware) featuring your favourite brands Romagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, daily 10am-8pm. surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience unique hospitality at the core of the services and is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, with over 130 boutiques of the world’s leading savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year to 70% off ), including Versace, Armani, Missoni, round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located Calvin Klein, Diesel, Paul Smith and Michael Kors. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

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K DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM TUSCAN CUISINE seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, prices, combining traditional dishes based fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for 13 Gobbi Trattoria com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. In the heart of the old centre just steps away from the 2341100. Map L3 €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 Lungarno, the Trattoria 13 Gobbi occupies a historic 0750600. Map F1 building where it offers authentic reinterpretations Cibrèo Trattoria of the most genuine Tuscan recipes. Among the A few yards from the Cibrèo Ristorante (see listing), Latini (Il) specialities of the house, rigatoni (served in a if you turn the corner, you find the trattoria that Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted traditional stoneware tureen) and the inevitable the Florentines call “Cibrèino”. Here you will find in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, bistecca alla fiorentina. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/ a substantial Tuscan menu, not very different from there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, trattoria-13-gobbi. Via del Porcellana, 9/r. T: 055 that of the restaurant, but with an atmosphere and a as well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are 284015. Map D3 service that are more informal and at decidedly lower Florentine tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef cost. Remember that it is not possible to book in stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well Benedicta advance here, so take into account that you will have stocked with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which to wait a while before being seated to eat. €€. www. and non, as well as the big French labels. €€€. www. the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl cibreo.com/trattoria. Via de’ Macci, 122/r. Map L3 illatini.com Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, D3 inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan Da Burde cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and Locale Firenze based on locally sourced ingredients that changes the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient every two months depending on the season. Open livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. building where by just descending a few steps 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent you can travel - like in a time machine - from the October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. value for money, the atmosphere has remained that Renaissance to 13th-century Florence, to the wine €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich cellars that conserve Roman remains. It is possible to T:055 2645429. Map D2 in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails, Piedmontese wines but also French, including some accompanied by small snacks, or stay for dinner with Bordino Trattoria fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always 12/r. T: 055 9067188. Map H3 crowded with both locals and tourists because of its Fuor d’acqua quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are The cuisine of the Tuscan tradition also includes fish Lungarno23 traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly dishes. And in this restaurant in the historic centre you In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of can find the true taste of the sea thanks to the fish that this restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, arrives daily from Viareggio. The quality raw materials hamburgers, which are certified with the I.G.P. relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via are cooked in the essential way, as in the Catalana mark and come from small local farms. Forget the Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5 and paccheri alla Trabaccolara and the main courses image of fast food, because here the hamburger based on the day’s catch. €€€. www.fuordacqua.it. Via is accompanied by fresh ingredients, hand-made Cammillo Pisana, 37/r. T: 055 222299. Map A3 sesame seed bread, freshly fried potatoes and A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte browned onions. €€. www.lungarno23.it. Lungarno Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) IO Osteria Personale Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. Map G6 menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, L’Ortone pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, modern tavern that has a preference for the products district, opposite the charming street market, the Creative cuisine, breathtaking views the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, Michelin-starred dishes and designer desserts in a location as welcoming as a real home, with views of the Map E5 of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and something more adventurous you can’t go wrong Cibrèo Ristorante Ponte Vecchio. The Borgo San Jacopo restaurant offers a unique experience. By Chiara Zaccarelli seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. with the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto In Florence and in the area near the Market of Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4 onions. €€. www.lortone.it. Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating 87/r. T: 055 234 0804. Map L4 well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and La Ménagère n excellent offer of culinary delights, tradition and innovation, which uses unusual >> Borgo San Jacopo regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, Maccheroncino (Il) a wine list including over 1000 ingredients from every part of the world, c/o Hotel Lungarno fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design Those who don’t eat meat in Florence might Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the international labels and a charming without forgetting the traditions of his own Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661. encounter a few difficulties, but luckily there are also A of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable some excellent fish restaurants. Il Maccheroncino view of one of the most beautiful cities in the land. Among the tasting menus, “La mia www.borgosanjacopo.com world. What more could you ask of a restaurant? Toscana” [My Tuscany], regional flavours The Borgo San Jacopo, honoured in 2015 with interpreted by the chef, “Experience”, a a Michelin star, is a journey into fine Italian and juxtaposition of flavours and technic where L’ORTONE Tuscan cuisine. Set in an exceptional location, clients will be able to ‘experience’ the most L’Ortone is in Piazza Ghiberti, opposite the charming overlooking the Lungarno, with which it is in creative line of Peter Brunel’s cuisine and enjoy Sant’Ambrogio street market. The menu draws inspiration from close contact through a large glass window, a gastronomical journey. And finally, the new Tuscan cuisine (painstakingly revisited) and offers a wide choice the restaurant expresses all of Michelin-starred “Ortaggi” [Vegetables], an experiential journey of antipasti, first courses and grilled specialities, including of chef Peter Brunel’s love for the Italian territory to get to know some of the best loved families course the bistecca alla fiorentina. Opened in 2014, it has always and its outstanding products. Born in 1975 in of vegetables. relied on young but expert and professional staff. A good mix Val di Fassa, since 2014 Peter Brunel has been Alongside these proposals, each day the of elegance and sobriety. Open daily. executive chef, not only of the Borgo San seasonal à la carte menu appears (see the Jacopo, but also of two other restaurants of the “Risotto with red cabbage” in the photo), while Lungarno Collection group: The Fusion Bar & the dessert menu is provided by internationally www.lortone.it Restaurant and Bistrò Caffè dell’Oro. renowned pastry chef Loretta Fanella, with Piazza L. Ghiberti, 87/r. For the Borgo San Jacopo the chef favours her sculptured desserts that are pleasing to the T: 055 2340804. a refined and creative cuisine combining eye and the palate.

38 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 39 DINING DINING Top hotel restaurants

Tradition, innovation and creativity: Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, 16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most Se•Sto on Arno Where® highlights some culinary among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 destinations to whet your appetite made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also www.westinflorence.com in several top hotels in Florence. locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant offers international dishes. Local flavours and seasonal products for a By Jasmine Piazza occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it Ristorante La Loggia unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor moves poolside to the winter garden. c/o Belmond Villa San Michele of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by Relais Le Jardin www.belmond.com sweeping picture windows that make the most of c/o Hotel Regency This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the the unique position and breathtaking view over Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 visit just for its magnificent position looking over the city. www.regency-hotel.com Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities and classic Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge Italian dishes. Villa La Vedetta mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens c/o Villa La Vedetta onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa www.villalavedettahotel.com dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 Just moments away from the Piazzale such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking Hostaria Bibendum fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused highest quality. famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products Borgo San Jacopo sophisticated ambiance of the Sina Hotel , The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, c/o Hotel Lungarno an aristocratic 18th-century palace, recently renovated and Trattoria al . Ristorante La Chiostrina antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 and restored to its former splendour. c/o Bernini Palace fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and options too. www.borgosanjacopo.com Irene Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Hostaria Bibendum c/o Hotel Savoy hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are Winter Garden by Caino Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant c/o Helvetia & Bristol Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 One of the most elegant and sophisticated flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, egg, c/o The Saint Regis Florence is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 www.roccofortehotels.com restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan dishes. Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using www.starhotelscollezione.com Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle www.wintergardenbycaino.com fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century building with an extraordinary collection of art Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Peter Brunel, accompanied by collector wines palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred from a cantina of 900 labels. a penchant for local producers and ingredients. Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Flora & Fauno fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local Piccini and executive chef Michele Griglio. Their c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi and seasonal products. menu shines an innovative spotlight on the Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honey- wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from www.hotelvillesullarno.com lacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic Facing the river and immersed in the lovely with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with c/o JK Place Firenze Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 and lampredotto to more refined proposals offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country www.jkplace.com like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas Il Conventino a Marignolle Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically eyes and palate, in particular their original take on in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining tiramisù. the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. times sticking to tradition. wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, La Cucina del Salviatino Golden Restaurant vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes c/o Il Salviatino Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 seasonal products from the estate or the nearby www.salviatino.com www.goldentowerhotel.it countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump links to the local territory and the seasons, with a card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of Il Palagio prevalence of meat courses, though there is no the ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic Intimate and refined atmosphere, with high class Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero furnishings and fittings. www.ilpalagioristorante.it food miles. A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside Gourmet Restaurant and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant Le Bistrot c/o Sina Villa Medici whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional c/o Villa Cora Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 www.sinahotels.com ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine www.villacora.it Tuscan specialities in a fabulous setting. A mix with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park of culinary tradition and fancy comprising types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic reinventions of fine Tuscan cuisine, in the 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant Gourmet Restaurant

40 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 41 DINING DINING Michelin-starred restaurants

Bottega del Buon Caffè Il Palagio Ora d’Aria Borgo San Jacopo

In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with Winter Garden by Caino its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are seven other Florentine dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds c/o Hotel Saint Regis of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 Piazza Ognissanti, 1 restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. T: 055 27163770 By Sophia Bertoli www.wintergardenbycaino.com La Leggenda dei Frati Steeped in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the in Villa Bardini (Costa San Giorgio) Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Winter Garden by Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a Caino has come about from the creative liaison Borgo San Jacopo Enoteca Pinchiorri T: 055 0680545 between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef c/o Hotel Lungarno Via Ghibellina, 87 www.laleggendadeifrati.it Michele Griglio. Their menu brings the territory’s Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r T: 055 242757 Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa great cuisine back to the limelight in an innovative T: 055 281661 enotecapinchiorri.it San Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda way, with elements from every part of the globe, www.borgosanjacopo.com How do you manage to be honoured with dei Frati. A breathtaking view over Florence and ranging from classic Tuscan dishes for strong Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants on the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which refined proposals, such lobster tail on topinambour Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, in this case too draws its inspiration from the local and mandarin cream. Also the desserts, particularly In this case the winning recipe is one that blends it comes from the winning combination of prime tradition, with a propensity for quality meat (the the ’Diversamente Tiramisù’, are a joy for the eyes creativity, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet boiled sausages and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), and the taste buds. in sea water or Bresse rooster and octopus are without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary but also for vegetables picked directly from the Winter Garden by Caino an example of this), all washed down with wines tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an restaurant’s own vegetable and herb garden and chosen from a cellar of 900 labels. You can opt unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized for the hand-made bread using flour from ancient for the tasting menu (the potato-based one is labels, along with others that are little known but grains. unmissable) or à la carte. equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century Ora d’Aria Bottega del Buon Caffè Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a Via dei Georgofili 11/r Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r delight for the senses. T: 055 20016 9 T: 055 5535677 www.oradariaristorante.com www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Il Palagio An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. Zero food miles products gathered from the organic c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in Borgo Pinti, 99 he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s the Florentine countryside, meat reared by local T: 055 2626450 throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that farms and fresh fish. These are the strong points of www.ilpalagioristorante.it impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at the Bottega del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s shadow of the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef environment with tables both indoors and recipes but tending towards a more creative Antonello Sardi proposes a cuisine based on the use outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can of seasonal ingredients, with a predilection for herbs proposal that looks to the Italian and regional delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon and spices to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the tasting menus include gems such as amberjack of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and "tapas" formula allows you to try a selection of small served in three ways (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts home-made cappelletti with pigeon, butter and Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French La Leggenda dei Frati Enoteca Pinchiorri thyme. of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times labels and a highly select menu of beers.

42 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 43 DINING DINING

fagioli all’uccelletto, but also monkfish and squid. €€. private room guests can also dine on tatami. €€€€. touchflorence.com. Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. www.kokorestaurant.it. Piazza F. Ferrucci, 4/5 r. T: Map I3 055 6587428. Off Map The “fiorentina” Tuscani 3 (I) Momoyama Florentine foods termes One of Florence’s historic Japanese restaurants, If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and where alongside the classic sushi and sashimi there ’Lampre…’ what’s that? Florence has a multitude of culinary specialities of delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located are rolls with creative combinations, soups, raw meats and fish, chicken teriyaki, udon and other hot peasant origin that are still very popular in the city today. Some are so niche in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the dishes, in the tradition of the Rising Sun. Located as to be unknown outside Florence, let alone to foreigners. So we’ve decided typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections over the Arno in the cool San Frediano district, to put together a glossary of Florentine food terms to help you find your of Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare on weekdays at lunchtime it turns into a noodle way among the soups, animal parts you never thought you could eat and and hamburger made rigorously with Chianina bar. €€€€. www.ristorantemomoyama.it. Borgo S. distinctive eateries. By Chiara Zaccarelli Ribollita meat. €€. http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri Frediano, 10. T: 055 291840. Map D4 18/r.T: 055 285356. Map F4 Rooster Firenze cuisine” containing liver, chicken hearts, genuine dish, including the kids. So much Zeb NEW OPENING A new arrival in the Rooster crests, eggs, lemon juice and onion. Even so there’s even a popular children’s song all Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo family, which already boasts one American-style though presented like that it seems to be an about it. and the , Zeb - highlighted by bar in the city. The concept is that of the restaurant/ the Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional cocktail bar, just a few steps from Piazza della inauspicious mixture, it is famous for having Tuscan dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, Repubblica, serving classic American meals such been one of the favourite dishes of Caterina RIBOLLITA lampredotto, meat balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny as hamburgers, ribs and BBQ, using prime Tuscan de’ Medici, who attempted - unsuccessfully Another delicious country dish typical of Buca Mario place, the diners eat at the bar, like a delicatessen ingredients, preferably organically sourced. €. www. - to export it to France and it seems she was Florence and the whole of central Tuscany (actually, its former identity). There is a large roosterfirenze.com. Via Porta Rossa, 63/r. T:055 selection of Italian wines, with a special focus on 2645006. Map F4 so fond of it that it gave her indigestion a is ribollita, a soup made of stale bread, kale Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of small local producers. €€. www.zebgastronomia. number of times. and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or cannellini). the most iconic dishes in Florence com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 2342864. Map H6 PIZZA ’Ribollita’ literally means boiled several times. cuisine. But be careful: to recognize LAMPREDOTTO The name derives from the fact that in the the original and tell it apart from the CANTINE O’Munaciello hundreds of impostors, there are Housed in a 17th-century monastery in the historic This is Florentine street food par excellence. old days peasants used to make a large pot Antica Mescita San Niccolò a few tips you need to know. Santo Spirito quarter, it recreates the atmosphere But watch out, it’s not for weak stomachs. and serve it, heated up, over a number of Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD of a Naples street, complete with hanging washing Actually it’s a cow’s fourth stomach, known days, each time tastier than before. Romanesque crypt? In Florence you can, at the and masks typical of Neapolitan Commedia Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which also used dell’arte. Besides wood oven pizzas, here you can Lampredotto as the ’abomaso’, cooked in a herb broth and with unwritten rules that the visitor to serve as a customs post for wine originating most commonly served in a panino soaked try other traditional Campania dishes, with products needs to know to avoid falling foul from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is excellent and from small producers and consortiums situated in the broth or topped with the local parsley- of the restaurant owner, paying over predominately Tuscan and the food also reflects along the coast. Every Wednesday night there’s CANTUCCI based green sauce. Historically a poor man’s the odds and to make sure they get the season and the local territory, with dishes such live music (Neapolitan). €. www.munaciello.com. Via This is one of the best-known cake recipes dish, it is still very popular in Florence today the real thing. as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, bistecca Maffia 31/r. T: 055 287198. Map D5 in Tuscan cuisine. The finger-shaped almond thanks to the numerous open-air kiosks alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just a few. WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, 60/r. Pizza Man biscuits are made by slicing up a long roll known as “lampredottai”, doing a roaring from a specific cut of a young Chianina T: 055 2342836. Map H6 Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan of baked dough while still hot. The dough trade with Florentines as well as tourists who cow, a part of the loin near the backbone school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten- is made with flour, sugar, eggs, butter and can’t wait to try this speciality, accompanied which has a T-bone in the middle. Buca Lapi free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional It should be grilled at a very high This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special raw almonds, not toasted or shelled. Tuscans by the obligatory glass of wine. Crafted out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance temperature, so that a fine crust forms dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a fortified Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves traces of over €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. T: 055 rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this local wine called Vin Santo made from dried PAPPA COL POMODORO a century of history thanks to the meticulous 2480200. Map H4 dish depends on the cooking: the meat grapes. You can find them in any bakery or On the face of it this is just another variant restoration of the internal frescoes. Buca Lapi must be brown on the outside but red, is particularly popular with lovers of the real Pizzaiuolo (Il) local foods shop. of bread and tomatoes. But until you’ve tried soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan dishes are Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is this soup made of stale bread (unsalted), cooked through. This is the first vital rule: worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the CIBREO tomatoes, garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan a fiorentina must be eaten rare. boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via del pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality A dish for strong stomachs, Cibreo is a olive oil, salt and pepper, you’ll never guess Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3 in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. Pappa col pomodoro HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan typical main course of Florentine “poor how good it is. Everyone loves this tasty, thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 Buca Mario tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts kgs, although bigger steaks are easily For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via available. And here is another sore point. famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3 Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine is a small seafood bistro located outside the tourist San Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina casatrattoria.com/trattoria-marione. Via della Spada cuisine (although you can still request a private Pizzeria Spera circuits, in the Rifredi neighbourhood. Fish dishes traditions of the past, all about long cooking by weight. An average price to be sure of 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 room for up to ten people in classic 16th-century One of Florence’s favourite pizzeria’s even won the according to availability and typical products of the times and essentials, starting with the study of old getting the real thing is around 50 euros Florentine style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is world’s pizza championship a few years ago. This cuisine of Le Marche are prepared here with fresh Opera cooking texts found on the second-hand book a kilo. excellent, as is the ribollita or pappardelle with simple and intimate little place just outside the old and seasonal ingredients. €€. www.ilmaccheroncino. Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few stalls and based above all on homemade pasta and WITH. The traditional accompaniment is Maremma boar ragù. €€. www.bucamario.com. centre serves a light crispy pizza with a choice of it. Via Reginaldo Giuliani, 43/r. T: 388 7575928. Off steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera traditional soups, as well as pork products. €€. www. different types of bread dough and a full range of usually cannellini beans, washed down Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: 055 214179. Map D3 Map restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and badaliosteria.it. Via dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. quality toppings. €. www.pizzeriaspera.it. Via della the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. Map H6 with a glass of Chianti. Marione Trattoria Cernaia, 9/r. T: 055 495286. Off Map In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music WHERE. Here are four restaurants where INTERNATIONAL The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in background of the most important operas, you can Touch Bistrò Toscano Santarpia you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. & ETHNIC CUISINE the historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs In a room decorated with blue and brown hand- illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. taste the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine of the hotelier institute have made their dream a Koko painted tiles, the wood oven turns out pizzas made by barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, cellar deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm- reality by opening this bistro that favours the use com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) Sophisticated chic and fine Japanese cuisine off with choice, slow-rising flours, tomatoes from taglierini with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and 10.30pm; closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. of seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ the main tourist circuits. Besides the classic raw fish Vesuvius and mozzarella from Campania cheese Tuscan cured meats are among the most popular Via Maso Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2 market of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of ristorante-perseus-firenze). dishes (vast selection of tartare, carpacci, sushi and makers. All accompanied by craft beers or wines dishes. If you go at the weekend it is advisable the same name. The menu, which gives a touch of (C.Z.) sashimi) Koko’s particular speciality is teppanyaki – from small producers. €. www.santarpia.biz. Largo to book in advance, because there is usually a Osteria Badalì freshness to the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among various ingredients cooked on an iron griddle. In the Pietro Annigoni, 9/c.T: 055245829. Map L3 long queue of people waiting outside. €€. www. Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, other things, ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and

44 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 45 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM (more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, and French toast. Designer atmosphere. www. APERITIVI aperitifs and snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other dittaartigianale.it. Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce regional bites. Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte district). • T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. Chiaroscuro Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. (Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5 Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, T: 055 286258. Map F5 Florentines today are attracted by the original Foody Farm and genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and Three Sixty “The right food from the right places” is the motto aperitifs served in a popular bar-cafe furnished From May to September the Grand Hotel of this little restaurant where the quality and with a retro touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro. Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An it. Via del Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3 magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming original and genuine light lunch, with the option pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www. of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, Easy living grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa Maria including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2 and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am (little beach), its location is quite singular: this till midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce strictly summer-only bar is built right on the Zoe district. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r. river-bed of the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, Cocktails and apericena accompanied by hookah, T: 055 242327. Map H5 from where patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif in a bar with essential modern furnishings and with a stunning view of Ponte Vecchio, often with soft lighting. For years a favourite with the Odeon Bistrot live music. There is always a cooling breeze, a younger crowd, always a lively atmosphere in the Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful big plus in a sweltering Florence summer. www. trendy San Niccolò district. www.facebook.com/ little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Poggi. T: 055 zoebarfirenze. Via dei Renai, 13. T: 055 243111. columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from 2341112. Map I6 Map H6 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion BRUNCH cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, Ditta Artigianale 8/r. T: 055 215654. Map E4 surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com. a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving Procacci Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4 competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an institution, and not only in Florence, especially Il Locale best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened for its truffle-based specialities and impeccable Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, selection of wines. Combines a gourmet food located in a small street not far from the Duomo. serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) shop and wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere, Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate ranging from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3

Il Rifrullo In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. Art and science to entertain you www.ilrifrullo.com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6 A sombre, harmonious Renaissance building, two enormous slides, some plants and plenty of visitors: these are Moyo the ingredients of an extraordinary exhibition/experiment. By Elena Peverata Aperitifs and light dinner in a locale that offers international cuisine, cocktails and DJ set in a modern and stylish setting, a landmark of Florentine nightlife. www.moyo.it. T: 055 2479738. imilar to a small fortress in the heart >> 19 April-26 August. The Florence Stefano Mancuso, founder of the study of Via dei Benci, 23/r. Map H4 of the city, Palazzo Strozzi represents plant neurobiology. Harder to explain than to Experiment. A project by Carsten Höller and Rivalta Cafè the perfect example of the ideal noble try out, this bizarre alliance between art and Stefano Mancuso. Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza S Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue Renaissance dwelling; commissioned in science in fact uses visitors’ emotions to place Strozzi. Open daily 10am-8pm; Thursdays that combines modern furnishings and frescoed 1489 by rich merchant Filippo Strozzi, it is so them “in resonance” with a number of plants 10am-11pm. www.palazzostrozzi.org ceilings. The sight of the Arno at dusk always imposing as to rival Palazzo Medici with its that are part of the experiment. The visitors attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno dimensions. For a decade or so now it has slide down the 20-metre slope taking a bean Corsini 14/r. T: 055 289810. Map E4 been transformed into a dynamic cultural seedling with them, and this will be compared Rooftop Bar La Terrazza centre that hosts important exhibitions at with others that have not undergone the Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio international level. Currently the beautiful same exciting adventure. In the two screening furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of internal Renaissance courtyard, in which rooms, on the other hand, the fear or the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel. ADVERTORIALEngines and beautiful women concerts, performances and plays are enjoyment of visitors when watching horror com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4 The races on Tuscany’s most beautiful roads, the Concours d’Élégance in the Boboli usually organized, is being conspicuously or comedy films produce different volatile Gardens, the bravery of the drivers, the fascinating women, the roar of the engines and Se·Sto on Arno monopolized by a grandiose installation: chemical compounds that are transported The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs the pungent smell of petrol and the emergence of Italian fashion: this Florentine “Dolce two monumental slides allowing you to through two suction ducts onto the façade, every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large Vita” is told through The elegance of speed, the history of the automobile in Florence and descend from the open gallery on the second where they will be able (who knows?) to terrazze provide a 360° view over the marvels Tuscany between 1934 and 1965, in black and white, through 90 previously unpublished floor to the ground, which are an integral influence the growth of the climbing wisteria of Florence. www.westinflorence.com. Piazza photographs by the glorious Archivio Foto Locchi agency. Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3 and spectacular part of ‘The Florence plants. How strong can the empathy between The elegance of speed. 11 June - 16 September. Palazzo Pitti, Andito degli Angiolini, Experiment’ exhibition, a project by German plants and human beings be? There is time Signorvino Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. www.uffizi.it artist Carsten Höller and Italian scientist until 26 August to find out. This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines

46 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 47 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT

with delicious snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm Santa Croce, and hosts all genres of performance. Visarno Arena (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic venue in the Inaugurated in 1854, since 2000 it has been owned It is located inside the Ippodromo Visarno heart of Florence. www.procacci1885.it. Via de’ by the Orchestra of Tuscany, which is based there. racecourse, located in Florence in the Parco Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3 www.teatroverdifirenze.it. Via Ghibellina, 99. T: 055 delle Cascine. Surrounded by greenery and with SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY 212320. Map H4 seating for 60,000, the area is the favourite venue Teatro del Sale for major open-air events. Active since 2015, it A region rich in natural thermal springs, Tuscany offers nothing but an Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by Teatro Goldoni has already hosted, among others, concerts by Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand embarrassment of choice from among the numerous structures spread out across the David Gilmour, Massive Attack, Einsturzende patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity territory, particularly in the areas of Siena and Grosseto. In addition to the famous Neubauten, Sting and Duran Duran, but also the co-founder, president and artistic director Maria to Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre. 2015 and 2016 editions of World Refugees Day. and historic Montecatini and Chianciano, full-blown health towns, there are more Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly Oval-shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over www.visarnoarena.it. Parco delle Cascine (approx. “discreet” structures, often associated with resorts, offering a different experience of original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a four orders, the theatre experienced a period Bagni San Filippo two kilometres from the Central Station of Santa fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and of abandonment. After a lengthy restoration, relaxation and wellbeing. Here are some suggestions. (E.P.) Maria Novella). Off Map Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), it returned to its original pomp in 1998, with a dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed historical design by Italian director and actor Luca price of 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. Via Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria, WELLNESS Bagni San Filippo www.adler-thermae.com. Strada di Bagno metabolism of the blood vessels. dei Macci, 111/r. (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6 Bené SPA A small town not far from the slopes of Vignoni, 1. San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). Grotta Giusti, www.grottagiustispa.com. 2001492. Map I3 Teatro del Maggio This 5-star luxury Villa Cora spa is found on the Mount Amiata, famous for millennia for its T: 0577 889001. Via Grotta Giusti, 1411 - Monsummano ground floor of Villino Eugenia and connected The Teatro del Maggio is in the centre, beside sulphur waters, which were used by the Terme (). T: 0572 90771. CONCERT VENUES the old city walls, next to the historic Stazione to the main hotel complex by an underground Etruscans, and for the white calcareous Castello di Velona & THEATRES Leopolda (see listing). The garden that welcomes tunnel. It comprises a tepidarium, leisure area, visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after the small gym, sauna, hammam and three large deposits that form the small, spectacular An 11th-century fortress transformed into a San Casciano dei Bagni Teatro Comunale founder of the Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina private cabins for personalised treatments. The hot water falls (48 °C) of the Fosso Bianco. residential villa in the Renaissance, the castle Classified among the “Most Beautiful The Teatro Comunale di Firenze is the city’s crowning glories are two prestigious partnerships: and the Florentine Maggio Musicale. Symphony Unlike the well-being and spa treatment - now a 5-star resort - is located on a hill Towns of Italy”, San Casciano stands on largest theatre. Overall, it occupies approximately concerts and operas are performed in a tailored face treatment products by beauty guru centre, access to this area is free of charge. overlooking the greenery of the Val d’Orcia. a hill immersed in the Siena countryside. half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta contemporary space in a large wood-covered hall. Sarah Chapman; and the body range from the and via Solferino. The main theatre has seating www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. Gui, 1. historic Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Terme San Filippo, www.termesanfilippo. between Sant’Antimo and Montalcino. The Bagno Grande and the Bagno Bossolo for around 1800, but also part of the complex Off Map Maria Novella, founded in Florence in 1612. www. it. Via San Filippo, 23. T: 0577 872982. B&B The indoor and outdoor swimming pools are ancient washtubs where it is possible is a foyer called the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can villacora.it. Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 228790. Il Fosso Bianco, Via San Filippo, 22. T: 392 (and the bathrooms of some of the rooms) to bathe freely, while there are indoor and hold a little under 600 spectators. The name Stazione Leopolda Off Map “Comunale” [Municipal] dates back to 1933, when Inaugurated in 1848, it was Florence’s first railway 3449596. Bagni San Filippo (Siena). use water from a nearby thermal spring outdoor baths, wellbeing treatments and the Florentine Maggio Musicale was established station: it was decommissioned, and today has Firenze Number Nine originating on Mount Amiata. a splendid resort at Fonteverde, sheltered (see entry), but the theatre itself dates back become a sought-after venue for meetings, This 4-star spa presents itself as an “Urban Bagno Vignoni Castello di Velona Resort Thermal SPA & by a magical garden with views of Mount Wellness Hotel” that claims to be “the only city to the second half of the 19th century. www. conferences and various events. A versatile, This tiny ancient stone village has one Winery, www.castellodivelona.it. Località La Amiata. operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16. T: 055 27791. multifunctional space, it has its name associated centre spa under original 15th-century vaults.” unique and unforgettable characteristic: Velona, Montalcino (Siena). T: 0577 839002. Fonteverde. www.fonteverdespa.com. Map B2 with the recent history of Italy, being the venue of A 400-square metre spa offering a full range the event that launched the career of Florentine of treatments, open every day, also to outside at its centre is Piazza delle Sorgenti, an Località Terme, 1 - San Casciano dei Bagni Teatro Verdi politician Matteo Renzi. www.stazione-leopolda. guests, though the under 16’s are not admitted. ancient pool measuring 49x29 metres (not Grotta Giusti (Siena). T: 0578 57241. The largest "Italian-style" theatre in Tuscany Very well known, among Florentines too, is com. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. T: 055 212622. Map A1 for bathing) where the spar waters are The spectacular Grotta Giusti, on the is located in Florence, in the historic district of the Arya Beauty & Comfort Zone, again linked to the hotel (but closed on Tuesdays). www. collected, gushing out at a temperature of outskirts of Montecatini, is a natural cave Saturnia - Cascate del Mulino firenzenumbernine.com. Via dei Conti, 9. T: 055 52 °C and shrouding the village in evocative that winds its way among stalactites and Among the most beautiful free thermal 293777. Map F3 steam during the cold months. stalagmites to a stretch of crystal clear baths in the world, the Cascate del Mulino Four Seasons SPA Albergo Le Terme, www.albergoleterme.it. water, the temperatures of which vary are small natural pools supplied by small A Four Seasons standard spa right in the heart of Piazza delle Sorgenti, 13. Bagno Vignoni di from 27°C to 34°C. Above all mud therapy waterfalls that form a unique, unrepeatable Florence. Ten body treatment cabins, a spa suite, San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 887150. and balneotherapy are practised there in environment. Next to them, the Terme di plus open-air pool. Exclusive treatments like the Spa Resort Hotel Adler Thermae. baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the Saturnia complex has spring water pools, Chianti massage and Tuscan cypress scrub are just the start of your wellness journey. Treatments a wellbeing centre and a 5-star resort. for teens and children also available. The super- Cascate del Mulino, www.cascate-del- modern fitness centre is located in the quiet of mulino.info. Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf the Gherardesca Garden. www.fourseasons.com. Resort, www.termedisaturnia.it. Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 26261. Map L1 Località Follonata, Saturnia - Manciano Golden Beauty & SPA (Grosseto). T: 0564 600111. This extremely stylish facility in the historic centre of Florence offers a Turkish bath, emotional Terme di Petriolo showers, hydromassage, sauna and treatment zone plus expert care and advice. Part of the The thermal baths are sited on a natural 5-star Golden Tower hotel, but also open to spring in the Valley dell’Ombrone, along the outside guests as the beauty centre annex every course of the River Farma. The waters, rich day from midday till 8pm. www.goldentowerhotel. in salts, gush out at a temperature of 43 °C it. Piazza Strozzi, 11. T: 055 287860. Map F4 and are traditionally used to treat various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. www. Il Villino SPA termedipetriolo.it. Strada Provinciale di A historic villa, completely renovated in 2014, the new Hotel Ville sull’Arno 5-star luxury boutique Petriolo, Monticiano (Siena). resort is very popular with Florentines. The Villino Petriolo Spa Resort, www.atahotels.it/ THE FLORENTINE MAGGIO MUSICALE is a unique spa, studded with original details, hotel/petriolo-spa-resort. Località Bagni di The Maggio is Italy’s first musical festival and since 1933 it was offered high-quality luxury materials, and hand-made decorations Petriolo, Frazione Pari, Civitella Paganico by Florentine craftsmen, offering a wide range Bagno Vignoni operas, concerts, dance shows and theatre events. The orchestra and the festival now (Grosseto). T: 0577 1606059. of treatments, from hydromassage to the ice live under the artistic direction of Zubin Mehta. www.operadifirenze.it cascade. www.planetariahotels.com. Lungarno C. Colombo, 1/3/5. T: 055 670971. Off Map

48 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 49 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ALL CONTRIBUTIONS RELATED TO Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by MUSEUMS AND EVENTS ARE BY Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings Elena Peverata series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing created between the 17th and 19th centuries and an important collection of self-portraits by great artists Lifestyle & Culture one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s including Filippo Lippi, Rembrandt, Velázquez, Editor David: the one on display in its original position Delacroix and Ensor. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Where® Italia is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Uffizi, 6. T: 055 294883. Map E6-E5-F5-G5 Galleria dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4 Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli Palazzo Vecchio The symbol of wealth and power, the building Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat was inhabited by the Medici in the period of their of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest maximum splendour, then by the Habsburg- ATTRACTIONS synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its family. The original architecture dates back to the & MONUMENTS imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first Duomo and Cupola its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors owner. The building is located Oltrarno (on the Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people. left bank of the river), at the foot of Boboli Hill. It Florence was the largest Christian church in the www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della is from the latter that the famous Boboli Gardens world. Today the religious building, whose official Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 take their name; they are one of the most important name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is examples of Italian-style gardens in the world Ponte Vecchio third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in and are considered a genuine open-air museum There has been a bridge at this point of the River Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The on account of their admirable architectural and Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, most important artists of the period participated landscaped layout and their collection of sculptures, between floods and reconstructions, the official in its creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while attracting approximately 800 thousand visitors a date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is the famous multi-coloured marble façade dates year. Currently they are the site of four different given as 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge back to the 19th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste known all over the world: it is possible to climb to Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. www. and Costume. They are connected to Forte di when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5- Belvedere. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they 6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. have been there uninterruptedly to this day. To Map E6 Battistero celebrate this history, on prominent display on the Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del bridge is a bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest Piazzale Michelangelo Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the goldsmith of the Renaissance. Access is gained Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and building that completes the considerably striking to the bridge between via Por Santa Maria and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, Lungarno degli Archibusieri and between Borgo San views seen all over the world in million of postcards but its first official dating is at least in the 12th Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 and reproductions. The design of the square century. It is characterised by an octagonal plan, dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital Corridoio Vasariano lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access to passage the entrance to which is at the beginning characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then Cosmic measurements Romanesque period. It has three famous doors, lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, Monumental sculptures that explore the cosmos, trace out stellar maps and investigate the energy in sumptuously decorated, and an interior that, with the monumental flight of steps known as the its marble and mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the matter and among the stars: Forte di Belvedere reopens its doors for Eliseo Mattiacci. By Elena Peverata Pantheon. Used in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. FIRENZECARD it. Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 losed during the winter season, each Florence, a genuine terrace overlooking >> Gong. Eliseo Mattiacci at Forte di Belvedere summer Forte di Belvedere reopens the city. Set at the highest point on Boboli 2 June - 14 October Campanile di Giotto 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a as an important exhibition venue Hill, it was created at the end of the 16th Forte di Belvedere, Via di San Leonardo, 1 C manifestation of 14th-century Florentine Gothic for major contemporary artists. This year it century following the wishes of Grand Duke www.musefirenze.it architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of hosts a significant anthological exhibition Ferdinando I de’ Medici to demonstrate all the four main components of the complex of devoted to Eliseo Mattiacci (Cagli, 1940), one the Medicis’ power with its majesty and – a by Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that of the pioneers of the Italian avant-garde of no means secondary aspect – to guarantee adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square- the late 1960s, the inventor of cosmological a refuge in the event of revolts, as the final based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, iconographies and a new relationship stage of the Vasari Corridor connecting Ponte can be visited by climbing no less than 414 between art and nature, between people Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti with a suspended stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy and the environment. Twenty sculptures are walkway, Via Boboli, through a charming extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www. ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: distributed over the exterior of the Forte, interweaving of passages, apartments, 055 2302885. Map F3 Firenzecard costs €72, allows access to 72 museums and is valid for 72 hours from where the large steel works of cosmic- corridors, bridges and gardens. Today the the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one Piazza della Signoria astronomical inspiration are positioned around Forte’s vocation is to host top-level events of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: This is the central square of Florence, the seat of the spacious terraced gardens, and the interior and exhibitions in the summer period, making civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on of the Villa, including the fascinating Gong that good use of its spacious interiors and exteriors. is located at the centre of medieval Florence south the Firenzecard circuit gives the exhibition its title. During the weekend, the guided visit to the of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman • Priority access to museums without needing to book Forte di Belvedere – or more accurately exhibition, which also included the history of Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over • 72 hours available the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio Santa Maria in San Giorgio del Belvedere – is a this magnificent architecture, is definitely not www.firenzecard.it (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the very charming location with a fine view over to be missed.

50 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 51 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

“Rampe del Poggi”, which start from piazza Poggi Santa Croce order. The church has given its name to the santacroceopera.it. , 16 (visitors’ in the neighbourhood of San Niccolò. Map I7 Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo entrance: Largo Bargellini). T: 055 2466105. Map I5 and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, Santo Spirito”, located “Oltrarno”, that is, on San Miniato al Monte Biblioteca Marucelliana a point of reference of the Franciscan order: the left bank of the river. A jewel of Renaissance Palazzo Pitti Museums Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, in via delle A precious archive of rare pieces established a radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes architecture, the church was the last great project Porte Sante, stands the Abbey of San Miniato al between the 17th and 18th centuries by Abbot its sober appearance of wooden trusses and by Filippo Brunelleschi and conserves elegant and Monte, a medieval religious building situated at Marucelli, it conserves 500,000 volumes, terracotta floors to Franciscan charisma. Giotto austere rationality in its architectural plan. In the one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. manuscripts and prints. The ancient reading painted some of his great masterpieces here interior there is also a wooden crucifix carved by a The most spectacular access is gained via the rooms, including the magnificent and spectacular and the French writer Stendhal experienced that young Michelangelo. www.basilicasantospirito.it. monumental flight of steps (which is not advisable, “Salone”, are visitable during opening hours or profound artistic agitation that has been known Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 210030. Map D5 however, for those with problems walking). The with a guided visit (by booking in advance). Open since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The outside of the church is decorated with green and San Lorenzo Mon-Thurs 8.30am-6pm, Fri 8.30am-4pm. Closed basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Sat-Sun, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 25 April, 1 May, 2 Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli and for this while a 12th-century mosaic decorates the Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great June, 24 June, 15 August and 2 weeks in the second reason was celebrated by the Italian romantic poet central part of the façade. The interior, which basilicas” of Florence, founded, according half of August, 1 November, 8 and 25-26 December. Ugo Foscolo as a temple of “italic glories”. www. is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first www.maru.firenze.sbn.it. Via Cavour, 43-45. T: 055 santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 the city’s best conserved original floors. www. bishop of Milan, in the fourth century AD: it is 2722200. Map G1 2466105. Map H4 sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. T: therefore one of the oldest churches in the city. Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana 055 234 2731. Off Map Its current appearance, however, is the result Santa Maria Novella Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and of the last major reconstruction work that took Mercato Centrale Lorenzo (see entry), it is one of the finest examples Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Built at the end of the 19th century in the period of the architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned a point of reference of the Dominican order. Its Medici and under the direction of the great in which Florence was capital of Italy, the Central by Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at foundation dates back to the end of the 13th architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Its bare stone Market is a building of a certain architectural the wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry century but work on it continued for centuries, façade was intended to receive a rich marble merit located between piazza del Mercato is gained by ascending the monumental staircase so the church, with its elegant façade by Leon decoration designed by Michelangelo, which Centrale and via dell’Ariento, via Sant’Antonino designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of unfortunately was never executed. The interior and via Panicale. The project was entrusted to Ammannati in 1559. The stained-glass windows Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church of is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria were created by Flemish craftsmen from designs by Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of art by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by the Vasarian school. The Library conserves approx. by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first floor 11,000 Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www. Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2 of the historic covered market there has been a richly miniated, dating from the 5th to the 19th smn.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria complex containing dozens of small restaurants, century, in addition to papyruses and rare print Novella, 18. T: 055 219257. leisure activities and street food options, and this MUSEUMS & editions. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Closed Map D2-E2 has now become a point of reference for informal EXHIBITION SITES Sat, Sun and holidays. Full ticket price: Basilica + but good quality cuisine for both Florentines Santo Spirito Medici Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di A palace for three dynasties, the Picture Gallery, established between Basilica di San Lorenzo and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2 this extraordinary building (see the 18th and 19th centuries by the Lorena This is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great the oldest (see "Monuments&Attractions"), the Cappella Brancacci Attractions&Monuments) is located in the family, includes the world’s largest T: 055 2399798. Map F1 basilicas”, a point of reference of the Augustinian current appearance of which is the result of the The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The concentration of works by Raphael, as radical renovation begun in 1418 by Giovanni di Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, famous Boboli Gardens, which are the well as paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, house the , a masterpiece that is Bicci, founder of the Medici dynasty. The complex park of the palace, a genuine open-air Caravaggio and Rubens. conserves key works by Brunelleschi, Donatello, universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Michelangelo, miniated codices, sacred Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and museum (see Museo Giardini di Boboli), goldsmithery and paintings from the 15th to the Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they take their name from this hill. Palazzo Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) 20th century, and is structured into the Basilica were left unfinished and were eventually completed Pitti currently contains four different Today the sumptuous environments that by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. Access is (with the Old Sacristy and the Treasure Museum), museums. were once the residence of the Lorena the Medici (which form a separate permitted to the chapel by groups of a maximum of family house paintings and sculptures, museum, see the relative indications) with the 30 people and the stay time is 30 minutes. You are New Sacristy and the Museum, in the Laurentian advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon- Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground mostly Italian, from Neoclassicism to the Library (see entry). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Closed floor and mezzanine) 1930s, with an important group of paintings Sundays: from 1 March to 31 October 1.30pm- on Tues and 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 July, Conserved in what were the summer by the Macchiaioli school. 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri 5.30pm. Closed: Sundays from 1 November to apartments of the Medici family are 29 February, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 10 and 15 €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione August, 8 and 25 December. Full ticket price: Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. the precious “Treasures of the Medici”: Museum of Fashion and Costume Basilica €6, Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www. comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224- vases made of semi-precious stones, (Palazzina della Meridiana) operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San 558-2382195. Map C5 rock crystals, ambers and ivories, the This museum possesses a stock of six Lorenzo 9. T: 055 216634-214042. Map F2 Cappelle Medicee exceptional collection of Oriental thousand items, including ancient clothing, Basilica di Santa Croce Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state porcelains; there is also the silverware of theatrical costumes and fashion accessories A splendid example of Tuscan Gothic (13th museum, but their history is closely associated with the so-called “Treasure of Salzburg”, an from the 18th century to today, in addition that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they century), it owes its sober appearance, with important collection of jewels created to underwear, jewels and costume wooden trusses and terracotta floors, to the are part (see entry). The museum consists of the between the 17th and 20th centuries, jewellery. Included among the costumes Franciscan order. The Basilica, the cloisters, New Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards the Sacristy, the and the Museum its sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel and a significant section dedicated to are the 16th-century burial clothes of of Opera are all part of the visitors’ itinerary. of the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built contemporary jewellery. Cosimo I de’ Medici, Eleonor of Toledo and using semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where Mention must be made in particular of the their son. sepulchres of Michelangelo Buonarroti and the Medici Grand Dukes and their relatives are Palatine Gallery and Monumental , the masterpieces by Giotto (Bardi buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, which, in addition and Peruzzi Chapels, Baroncelli Polyptych), by to the remains of the Lorena family, contains the Apartments (noble floor) Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI Taddeo Gaddi (The Last Supper, The Tree of Life) funeral monument to Cosimo the Elder, founder The 14 sumptuously furnished rooms of Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. A new layout design for the museum’s large room 41 establishes new synergies between the by Donatello (The Annunciation, Crucifix, Saint of the dynasty. The museum also holds a part of the Royal Apartments offer a fascinating Museum full ticket price: €16 (1 Mar/31 the Treasure of the Basilica: sacred vestments and masterpieces created by Raphael and Michelangelo when they were both in Florence. The Louis of Toulouse), by Agnolo Gaddi (Alberti and blend of styles telling of the daily lives Oct)/€10 (1 Nov/28 Feb). www.uffizi.it/ Castellani Chapels) and by Cimabue (the famous magnificent shrines. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm; ‘Doni Tondo’ by Michelangelo, for example, is now positioned beside the portraits of his and tastes of the various periods and palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Crucifix). Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm; Sun from 9 April to 4 November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: clients, Maddalena and Agnolo Doni, painted by Raphael. www.uffizi.it and holidays 2pm-5.30pm. Closed 1 January, 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the families that lived there. The “Quadreria”, T: 055 294883. Easter, 13 June, 4 October, 25-26 December. www. month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket

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price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/ century fresco by Andrea Orcagna that decorates recognise their technical evolution, the actual city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. musei/2/medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana. its eastern wall, with fragments of a Last Supper museum, with displays of velocipedes, bicycles, Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: org. Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 at the bottom and a superb Crucifixion at the clothing and relics documenting the history of time it has undergone numerous enlargement and 055 219257- 055 282187.Map E3 282984. Map F2 top. The museum houses works donated to the cycling and the feats of Gino Bartali and other transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes Municipality of Florence in 1946 by collector and champions, and finally collections of period are rooms and private environments sumptuously Museo di Storia Naturale - "" Cenacolo di Sant’Apollonia antiquarian Salvatore Romano, a precious collection newspapers, publications and films. Open Fri-Sat decorated by some of the most famous artists of Zoology Section In around 1447 Andrea del Castagno frescoed the of sculptures, fragments of architectural decoration, 10am-1pm, Sun and holidays: 10pm-4pm. Closed the Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings Opened to the public in 1775, “La Specola” is one back wall of the refectory of the ancient Benedictine detached frescos and furnishings of various origins 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. and exceptional masterpieces such as Judith and of Europe’s oldest science museums. It possesses a monastery of Sant’Apollonia (1339) with The Last and from periods between the ancient Roman Free entry. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Holofernes by Donatello, The Genius of Victory collection of over 3.5 million animals (5,000 exhibited Supper, The Crucifixion, The Deposition and The Age and the 17th century. Entry to the Cenacolo Via Chiantigiana, 175 - Ponte a Ema (30 minutes from by Michelangelo and Verrocchio’s Cherub. Open to the public) and the largest collection in the world th Resurrection. Other outstanding frescos by Andrea is gained directly from Piazza Santo Spirito, to the Flemish Astronomical ring dial (ca. 1550) Florence). T: 055 287043. Off Map daily, from 1 April to 30 September: 9am-11pm; of 18 -century anatomical waxworks illustrating del Castagno and paintings from the monastery are the entire human body in every detail (visitable by left of the façade of the church. The museum is from the Medici collection hosted from 1 October to 31 March: 9am-7pm. Thursdays also on display in the museum. Open daily 8.15am- Museo degli Innocenti booking in advance, T: 055 2756444). Open Tues-Sun contained entirely within the vast setting of the at the . throughout the year: 9am-2pm: Closed on 25 1.50pm. Closed 1st, 3rd, 5th Saturday and Sunday Cenacolo. Open Mon and Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli December. Museum full ticket price: €10. www. 9.30am-6.30pm (1 Oct-31 May), Tues-Sun 10.30am- of the month e 1 January, 1 May, 15 August, 25 holidays: 1pm-5pm. Closed 1 January, 7 January, Innocenti, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della 5.30pm (1 Jun-30 Sept). Closed on Mondays and 1 December. Free entry. www.polomusealetoscana. Easter, 16 July, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 as a Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full beniculturali.it. Via XXVII Aprile, 1. T: 055 price: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore it is one of the most famous museums in the world refuge for abandoned children, today it continues ticket price €6. www.msn.unifi.it. Via Romana, 17. T: 2388608/610.Off Map Romano €7. on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The Museo di Santa Maria Novella 055 2755100. Map H1 www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages museum itinerary combines the documentary and The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental Museo Galileo Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of Piazza Santo Spirito, 29. T: 055 287043. Map D5 to the modern age). The collections of paintings Housed in the historic Palazzo Castellani, its unique from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain precious artworks by , Domenico cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works private architecture of the Renaissance and a Forte di Belvedere Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, collections include ancient scientific instruments dynamic cultural centre that hosts international a number of absolute masterpieces of the art datable between the 11th and 19th centuries, At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ of all time: from Giotto to Simone Martini, Piero Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the EDITOR’S TIP including all of Galileo Galilei’s original instruments. Medici commissioned della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Robbia. On the terrace the elegant by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present to design a fortress on the top of Boboli Hill, to Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present One group consists of the collection of instruments are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raphael, of the Medici dynasty, the other of the objects incorporate a villa to be used as a “belvedere” Michelangelo, Caravaggio and Canaletto. There views. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed 1 January, rare examples of the Florentine painting of the the café and the museum shop, which looks out by the Grand Duke’s court. Despite its strategic 25 December. www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza 14th and 15th centuries. The Ubriachi Chapel and subsequently gathered together by the Grand onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, are also important collections by German, Dutch Dukes of Lorraine. Open daily 9.30am-6pm, Tues position, it was never used for defensive purposes; and Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1 ancient Refectory house a permanent exhibition performances, contemporary art installations and however, a vault was created in the underground of gold jewellery, sacred furnishings and liturgical 9.30am-1pm. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and and Rubens. The Museum also houses the famous Museo del Bigallo ticket price € 9. www.museogalileo.it. Piazza dei floors to house the state treasury. The fort currently Department of Drawings and Prints and the Classical vestments, part of the church’s ancient Treasury, plus holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open The headquarters of two ancient benevolent a series of paintings. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm Giudici, 1. T: 055 265311. Map G5 full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. Piazza Antiquities Collection. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am- institutions, the Compagnia della Misericordia and exclusively on the occasion 6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 (from 1 April to 30 September); 9am-5.30pm (from 1 Museo Giardini di Boboli Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3 f temporary exhibitions. Full ticket price: €3. the Compagnia del Bigallo, the so-called Loggia October to 31 March). Fridays throughout the year: December. Museum full ticket price: €20 (1 Mar-31 del Bigallo is a complex the construction of which Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous Fondazione Salvatore Romano www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Oct)/€12 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli open from 11am. Saturdays throughout the year Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7 was begun in 1352. A precious record of the history 9am-5.30pm; Sundays and Holidays 1pm-5.30pm. The museum is housed in the ancient Cenacolo Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5 of Florence, the museum conserves wonderful responsible for designing their layout, creating (14th century) of the convent, built beside the Closed on 25 December. Full ticket price: €7.50. the model of the Italian-style garden that was to Galleria degli Uffizi Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze frescos from the 14th century, including the Virgin church of Santo Spirito, the ancient function of The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and of Mercy (1342), presenting the first famous view which is recalled by the imposing fourteenth- The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence second floors of the large building erected between of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the of Florence and precious panels from the 14th and Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous 15th centuries. Access only for pre-booked guided David, transported here from Piazza della Signoria visits (T: 055 288496): Mon-Sat 10am, 12 noon, 3pm; (where it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August Sun and holidays 10am and 12 noon. Free entry. 1873. Housed in the adjacent premises, which were www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza San originally two convents, are works coming from the Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Map F3 Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and Museo dell’Opera del Duomo the convents themselves, which were abolished in The Museum houses works designed and built for the Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Bell Hall of Models, the collection of Russian icons and Tower and the Baptistery: it is a unique collection, musical instruments of the courts of the Medici with masterpieces by Arnolfo di Cambio, Ghiberti, and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am- Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Antonio Pollaiolo, 6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, Verrocchio and Michelangelo, in addition to 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €8. www. paintings, goldsmithery, liturgical vestments, galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli ancient work tools, models and architectural , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2 projects. Open daily 9am-8pm. Closed: 1st Tuesday Galleria Rinaldo Carnielo of the month, 1 January, Easter, 25 December. Single Conserved in the townhouse in Liberty style that ticket for the Museum and all the monuments of the was the home-studio of Rinaldo Carnielo (1853-1910) Duomo (Dome, Baptistery, Giotto’s Bell Tower): €18 are over three hundred sculptures by the artist (online). www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del and a number of paintings by artists who were his Duomo, 9 (ticket office Piazza San Giovanni, 7). T: 055 contemporaries, such as Silvestro Lega, Michele 2302885. Map G2 Gordigiani and Arturo Calosci. An exponent of late Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure 19th-century commemorative statuary, Carnielo An elegant collection of works made of semi- had close relations with the environment of the precious stones and multi-coloured marble and An evening with Michelangelo Macchiaioli, of whom he was a friend and passionate scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, Every Tuesday and Thursday in summer, the Galleria dell’Accademia in Florence extends its collector. Museum temporarily closed to the public. instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone opening hours to 10pm, enabling you to stroll among its many masterpieces feeling cooler and www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza samples. The works are displayed in chronological Savonarola, 3. Off Map order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open more relaxed. This important museum owes its huge popularity to the presence of a number of MUSEO DEGLI INNOCENTI sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above all the famous David, an icon Gino Bartali Cycling Museum Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and This new museum - which was the first orphanage in Europe (15th century) - opened to the The museum is located at Ponte a Ema, the locality holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli of Florence, the symbol of male beauty and perfection. The one on display at the Accademia public in 2016 and combines art, architecture and the history of Childhood all together. where the great cycling champion Gino Bartali Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1 is the original work, and was moved here for its protection in 1873 from Piazza della Signoria, Its museum itinerary is developed around the theme of welcoming. was born and began his competitive career. The Museo di Palazzo Vecchio where it was replaced by a faithful copy. Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze. Open until 10pm, building, completed in 2006, contains a store of www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, until 25 September. Via Ricasoli 58/60. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it cycles from various periods, enabling visitors to or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the

54 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 55 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Museo Stefano Bardini adorned the niches outside on the four sides of A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant the imposing stone cube are conserved in the EXCLUSIVE FLORENCE MAP museum on the first floor. On the second floor you in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated Sunday 5 August: free admission ® his private collection to Florence, where it was can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria by Where Italia displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building (formerly del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. the church and convent of San Gregorio della Pace) Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. to State Museums Hand-drawn with Indian ink and watercolours, using the that housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over Museum of Sculptures (first and second floor): open 2000 items there, including sculptures, paintings Mon (10am-4.50pm) and Sat (10am-12.30). Free ‘bird’s eye view’ technique. Illustrator Mario Camerini is currently and objects of applied arts, from ancient art to entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/ working on reproducing remarkable maps of Italian cities. that of the 18th century, with a major presence of orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 works from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. 2388606. Map F4 Among its most significant works are St. Michael the Archangel by Antonio del Pollaiolo, the Madonna of Four centuries of the history of art, architecture and the Ropes by Donatello and Guercino’s Atlas. Open collections in a single building, one of the most Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Closed on 1 January, beautiful in Florence; built in the mid-15th century Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket by at the wishes of the Medici, it is the price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via prototype of Renaissance civil architecture. Its jewel dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427. is the , which you enter by climbing the Map G6 elegant seventeenth-century staircase. Open daily Museo Stibbert 8.30am-7pm. Closed on Wednesdays. Via Cavour, 3. One of the most fascinating and unusual places T: 055 2760340. Map F2 in Florence, it is a Neo-Gothic castle built by Porcelain Museum Frederick Stibbert (1838-1906) with exceptional Housed at the top of the Boboli Gardens, in the 18th- collections, including weaponry, art objects and century Palazzina del Cavaliere at the centre of the everyday items from European, Islamic and Far Rose Garden, are the collections of table porcelains Eastern civilisations, particularly Japanese, portraits, of the ruling houses that succeeded each other but also great masterpieces by Botticelli, Crivelli, at Pitti Palace, representing Italian and European Bronzino, Suttermans and others. Eclectic taste production: from the Manifattura di Doccia, founded characterises the sumptuous private apartments by the Ginori family, to the porcelains of Sèvres and and the park, decorated Meissen. For address, opening and closing times, with groves, pavilions, THE MAP CAN BE PURCHASED IN TWO FORMATS. see Museo Giardini di Boboli. Map F7 statues, artificial ruins 140X100cm or 70X100cm. €100 + courier costs and a small Egyptian Santa Maria del Fiore temple. Open Mon- The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria Botticelli Room, Galleria degli Uffizi [email protected] Tues-Wed 10am-2pm; del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout Fri-Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. the world, are a single large open-air museum, Closed on Thursdays, a unique combination of art, faith and history Every first Sunday of the month, more • Museo di Casa Martelli 1 January, Easter, located in the city’s main square, the religious, become an example for many European courts. than 450 museums and archaeological via Ferdinando Zannetti, 8 Museo Novecento 1 May, 15 August, historical and artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo Populated by ancient and Renaissance statues, The Museum is housed in the ancient Spedale 25 December. Full (Santa Maria del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, sites across Italy open their doors to the • Museo di adorned with grottos - including the famous di San Paolo (13th century), which was later the ticket price €8. Visits the Baptistery of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower public free of charge. Florence, like many via Porta Rossa, 13 Buontalenti Grotto - and large fountains, such as Scuole Leopoldine (18th century). Dedicated to the are run every hour (see all in "Attractions&Monuments"), together those of Neptune and the Ocean, they are a genuine other cities in the country, has joined • Museo di Orsanmichele Italian art of the 20th century, it offers a selection of for accompanied, with the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo open-air museum. The terraced area includes the this initiative promoted by the Ministry via Arte della Lana, 1 around 300 works representing that unrepeatable groups of 25 dell’Opera del Duomo (see entry) are all visitable Rococò pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus and the of Cultural Heritage by offering free • Cenacolo di Andrea del Sarto a San Salvi artistic season that saw Florence at the centre of the people. www. with a single ticket that can be purchased online Limonaia, the Lemon House. At the centre of the international cultural scene. Structured in reverse museostibbert.it. (full price €18), with prior booking necessary for admission to the museums listed below www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it Rose Garden is the Palazzina del Cavaliere, which chronological (from the 1990s to the early 20th Via Stibbert, 26. the Dome. The visiting times of the monuments on Sunday 5 August. via di San Salvi, 16 houses the Porcelain Museum (see entry). Open century), thematic and interdisciplinary order, the T: 055 475520. are different and vary depending on the day. www. daily 8.15am-6.30pm (Apr-May-Sept), 8.15am- • Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze immersive museum itinerary includes multimedia Off Map ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 4.30pm (Jan-Feb-Nov-Dec), 8.15am-9.30pm (Jun-Jul- GALLERIE DEGLI UFFIZI www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it workstations, sound devices and video rooms along 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 Aug), 8.15am-5.30pm in March, 8.15am-6.30pm in with the works themselves. From 1 October to 31 Orsanmichele www.uffizi.it via Ricasoli, 58-60 October. Closed first and last Monday of the month. March: open daily (except Thurs) 11am-7pm, Thurs A unique, Villa Bardini and Gardens • Gli Uffizi • Giardino della Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full ticket price: €10 extraordinary monument, The most beautiful view of Florence earned it 11am-2pm. From 1 April to 30 September: Mon- piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it (1 Mar-31 Oct)/€6 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazza Tues-Wed-Sat-Sun 11am-8pm, Thurs 11am-2pm, in which civil and religious the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. Map E6 Fri 11am-11pm. Closed on 25 December. Full ticket functions are combined. Built place rich in history, art and culture, has become • Gabinetto dei Disegni via di Castello, 44 price: €8.50. www.museonovecento.it. Piazza Santa as a granary, in the mid-14th an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary e delle Stampe • MAF-Museo Archeologico Nazionale Museo Nazionale del Bargello Maria Novella, 10. T: 055 286132/055 217158. century it was consecrated exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum This imposing building, built between the 13th and via della Ninna, 5 di Firenze Map D3 for Christian worship. On (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and the • Palazzo Pitti Museums museoarcheologiconazionaledifirenze. the ground floor the Church realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between 1574 Museo Salvatore Ferragamo houses a grandiose marble (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently Porcelain Museum, Tesoro dei Granduchi wordpress.com and 1858 (the “Bargello” was the head of the Grand This is a museum devoted to the history of the tabernacle by Orcagna. The being restructured). In addition, there is also a Giardino di Boboli, Galleria Palatina and piazza S.S. Annunziata, 9 Duke’s Guards). The Museum conserves a highly Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, originals of the numerous Michelin-starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda Royal Apartments, Museo della Moda • Parco di Villa Il Ventaglio important collection of Renaissance sculptures, Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every sculptures (works by dei Frati (see "Dining"), and surrounding it are four with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, e del Costume, Galleria d’Arte Moderna www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it year it organises exhibitions that investigate the famous Florentine hectares of woodland, an Italian-style garden and Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, piazza Pitti, 1 via Giovanni Aldini, 10/12. relationship between fashion and art. The museum artists from the a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun and prestigious collections of “lesser arts” (bronzes, is situated in (1289) – which 15th and 16th 10am-7pm. Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price • Villa Medicea della Petraia Majolica ware, jewellery, ivories, medals, fabrics was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the centuries) that €8. Bardini Gardens: open daily 8.15am-4.30pm MUSEI DEL BARGELLO www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it and antique weaponry). Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. headquarters for his company and his workshop (Nov-Feb); 8.15am-5.30pm (Mar); 8.15am-6.30pm From 9 April to 4 November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it via della Petraia, 40. – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of (Apr-May, Sept-Oct); 8.15am-7.30pm (Jun-Aug). 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the • Museo delle Cappelle Medicee • Villa Medicea di Cerreto Guidi and Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Closed first and last Monday of the month, 1 month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price €10 piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 Museo Storico della Caccia e del Territorio ticket price: €9. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali. The bronze statue of Perseus holding the head of 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www. (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Museum). • Museo Nazionale del Bargello www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it it/musei/1/bargello. Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 Medusa (Benvenuto Cellini, 1545-1554) is located at the ferragamo.com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - Via dei via del Proconsolo, 4 via Ponti Medicei, 7 - Cerreto Guidi 282902. Map G4 in PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA. Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4 Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G7

56 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 57 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM Emergency AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 European Emergency Number – T: 112 (available at the end of 2018) 112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance (118), Fire Service (115), Police (113). Operators will also answer calls in English, French or German. If the caller does not know where he or she is, the operator will identify where the person making the call is physically located and will pass this information to the emergency services. OPEN PHARMACIES Farmacia Comunale 13 (inside S. M. Novella Station. T: 055 216761) open daily 24/24; Farmacia all’Insegna del Moro (Piazza San Giovanni, 20/R. T: 055 211343) open daily 8am-midnight. www.farmaciediturno.net PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP © ATAF requested by phone. TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it Florence, it is possible to travel on all the means of Getting around Florence TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it transport (both trams and buses) with no added cost by taking advantage of your train ticket for 24 ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and hours from the time of arrival and 24 hours before Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi departure to visit the city using public transport Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line (Toll Free drivers. on the network served by Ataf means of transport Number) T: 800 424500; from mobile (Toll Number): Fixed taxi fares to airports and the T1 tramway. T: 199 104245. From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): ATAF Point-Customer Care Railway Station €22 (plus supplements and extra fee for Airports Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices no. 8 and no. 9. night or holiday travel). Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Lost and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - (4 km from the 9am-12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. The museum city centre of Florence). The airport, to the North-West Malpensa: €650 Via Veracini, 5 (int. 5). T: 055 334802. of Florence, lies between the “Firenze Nord” exit Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or Fixed taxi fares to some destinations in Tuscany from the freeway and Florence’s industrial area the tram: the ticket must be validated using the Pisa: €150 / Montecatini Terme: €90 / Siena: €120 / near Prato. Call centre T: 055 30615. concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. machines on the bus. Livorno: €160 / Forte dei Marmi: €180 / Arezzo: www.aeroporto.firenze.it Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. €140 / Lucca: €140 / Empoli: €55 / Pistoia: €65 / San • Connections to the airport Can be used on buses, trams or trains. Gimignano: €100 / Volterra: €150 / : €300. VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of allowed into the centre to load and unload Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s Fixed taxi fares to main Shopping Outlets S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every 90 minutes onboard ticket (€2, no change given). alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask most bohemian neighbourhood. 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and The Mall: €65 / Barberino Designer Outlet Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be its medieval origins. your concierge, also so you can receive For decades the Florentine naming system McArthurGlen: €65 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for F purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord Yet the city’s period of maximum splendour indications of where the car parks are located has had a peculiarity that is gradually one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station (Via S. Trains ticket from 10pm to 3am (€4, by phoning T: 055 was undoubtedly the Renaissance, of which in the centre). disappearing, but some traces of it can still Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices (www. 5650555). countless masterpieces remain. To find your way around the city, it is a good be found: the civic numbers, in fact, were The most important railway station is Santa Maria ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip ticket: €10. Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della The T1 Tram connects S.M. Novella Station in With less than four hundred thousand idea to keep well in mind that Florence is divided between “black”, which denoted WHERE TIP A new line Tramway 2, connecting Florence to Scandicci (www.gestramvia.com) Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed the airport with S.M. Novella Station, is activated inhabitants and covering an area of little more developed along the two banks of the River he residences, and “red”, for businesses. Electric buses move around the historic centre and international trains arrive at and depart in June 2018. than a hundred square kilometres, Florence is Arno. All the roads that run alongside the Some red numbers still remain, so bear that from there. and also reach the pedestrian areas. There are AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) practically impossible to tour by car, and in fact river, on both sides, are called “Lungarno” in mind. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities four lines: C1-C2-C3-D. WHERE TIP Route C1 - (80 km from the centre of Florence). Call centre the centre is to a large extent prohibited to and it is only the second part of the name that Finally, some suggestion for improving your across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: is convenient for visiting the most important • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h T: 050 849300. www.pisa-airport.com museums in Florence. vehicle traffic. changes. Lungarno degli Archibugieri, for visit. The Tuscan regional capital is one of the • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 The entire historic centre of Florence (which is We suggest, if possible, that you tour it on example, is right in the centre: it is there that cities with the highest tourist density on the Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min approximately the part located within the 19th- Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but you the Vasari Corridor passes and the Uffizi looks entire planet: wherever you wish to visit, century ring-roads or viali, which is a protected TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www. €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, can also count on quite an efficient public out over it. book in advance (or have them book for you UNESCO heritage site) is a “Zona a Traffico Limitato” trenitalia.com. WHERE TIP Train+bike is a viable travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. (ZTL), or restricted traffic zone. Bicycles, electric transport network (which, however, is severely The whole area on the other side of the at your hotel). You should also bear in mind formula for sustainable mobility. It is possible to 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu vehicles, motorcycles and scooters are allowed to limited during the nighttime hours, so take river, to the south, is called “Oltrarno” by that the serious overcrowding takes place put your bikes on Trenitalia regional trains. 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: enter. Access is granted, at any time, ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, WHERE TIP care after midnight). the Florentines. It was originally outside the around mid-morning, so if you are an early to visitors who need to reach a hotel where they www.italotreno.it. WHERE TIP For travellers travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. Taxis and bikes can reach all the strategic historic centre, but today it contains important bird then that could give you a significant have a booking in their car. with Italo departing from Florence or arriving in 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it points, whereas private cars are usually only attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the Boboli advantage. (E.B.)

58 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 59 ESSENTIALS

Tourist Information INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - www.firenzeturismo.it 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information and sales point for Firenzecard. 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Firenzecard. 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, events, opening times of museums, how to move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. Via email ([email protected]) you can ask for information in any language, including Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic (answers within 24 hours). and the surrounding areas. It costs €72 and offers. It costs just €5, but you can only buy it if you TOURIST CARDS provides priority access to museums. have the Firenze Card. www.firenzecard.it. Firenzecard is a special tourist card valid for Firenzecard+ is the Plus version: you can travel by 72 hours providing you with admission to 72 all the city’s buses for 3 days and you have access Special Tours to many commercial partners with discounts and museums, villas and historical gardens in Florence CITY SIGHTSEEING® FIRENZE HOP ON HOP OFF Hallmark red double-decker bus. 7 days a week, UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE all year round. You can join the tour from any stop. Tickets on board, in hotels and from authorised agencies or on the Internet. Wi-fi on board. “Sightseeing Experience” Free App. 24-hour ticket > Prices: Adults €23 - reduced €12 – family €70. 48-hour ticket > Prices: Adults €28 - reduced €14 – family 84€. 72-hour ticket > Prices: Adults €33 - reduced €17. The public transport ticket is included in your ticket. 2 lines, over 40 stops. Commentary in 8 languages. Main departures > A Line: S.M. Novella Station. B Line: Piazzale Michelangelo. Combo tickets for top Florence attractions can be purchased at special prices. www.city-sightseeing.it/it/firenze SEGWAY - The trendiest, most environmentally friendly way to visit the city. Rental fare: 1 hour: €19. www.segwayfirenze.it LOOKALS - The new platform where travellers can choose from the best selection of tours and activities in Italy created by locals and tour guides, who can promote and sell their own itineraries, getting in touch with thousands of travellers from all over the world. www.lookals.com. Bike Sharing MOBIKE – This ’free floating’ bike-sharing system allows you to book a bike via the free Mobike App (App Store or Google Play), identify the position of the bike nearest to you and then leave it in any authorised parking area in the city or in a bike rack. Cost: €1 deposit, and €0.30 for every 30 minutes. For more information, visit www.mobike.com Useful information about cycling maps on www.becycle.comune.fi.it.

60 WHERE FLORENCE I AUGUST 2018 V A SI E S T E S E

CASTELLO SESTO FIORENTINO

SVINCOLO SESTO FIORENTINO V I A

S A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E E S VI VIA XXV APRILE

T A G. DUPRÈ E VIA DEL CHIUSO DEI PAZZI S E

I N A I L U I G O D L A N I G E R A I V V IA D E L L E PA N C H E

VIA ANDREA COSTA A COSTA VIA ANDRE

VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I V I A C A R L O D E L G R E C O Museo Bandini VIA MARINI

VIA PORTIGIANI Cattedrale di San Romolo SC ONI CI ALE 54 D EI BO STRADA PROVIN PIAZZA PIAZZA G.GARIBALDI MINO DA FIESOLE VIA MASSICINI V L. U C C H E S E

VIALE XI AGOSTO V VIA SANT’AP

A U T O S T R A D A F RI E N Z E -M A R E I VIA S.CHIARA

A POLINARE

V IA S A LV A D O R A L L E N D E F R À

VIALE SAN LUCA G VIALE GAETANO PIERACCINI I VIA GIULIO CACCINI O

AENTINA V A N N VIA F I

PONTE D A

F VIA DELLA BADIA DEI ROCCETTINI I NUOVO E VIA REGINALDO GIULIANI S VIA DELLE PANCHE O FIESOLE L ALLA E

D PIAZZA E Aeroporto T Amerigo VIA VECCHIA FIESOLANA T ENRICO O Vespucci PIGNONE

BADIA L MATTEI VIA MANTELLINI ' A N G E V AI P R A T E S E L I C PIZZERIA O V I A U G O C O R S I SAN DOMENICO V. DEL PONTE DI QUARACCHI Convento di San Domenico V. CUPOLA VIA MANTELLINI

VIABENEDETTO DA MAIANO VIALE G. LUDER VIALE G.B. MORGAGNI

LLO STECCUTO VIA DE VIA FAENTINA VIALE ASTRONAUTI PIAZZA EUGENIO Stazione Firenze Rifredi VIA D EL PALAGIO DEGLI S PINI ARTOM VIALE ASTRONAUTI VIA PANCIATICHI

VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI VIA RENATO FANTONI

VIA DELLE PANCHE I VIA D I CARRAIA VIALE XI AGOSTO V. ACCADEMIA CIMENTO C C V I A A R T U R O F E R R A R I N V. S. STEFANO IN PANE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO U VIA DELL'OLMATELLO LG. DELLA T VIA D I CARRAIA LIBERAZIONE R V ANNI BOCCACCIO V I A P R A T E S E A I A V

M R E . G

I VIA GIO

N V. D. DEL GARBO VIA SETTEMBREI V

V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O G U I D O N I VIA ALMERICO DA SCHIO A VIALELUIGI GORI VIA MAGELLANO L STID E FACCIO LI D V. CUPOLA VIA SAN DOMENICO V. ARI O

G TERZOLLE VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI VIA EUGENIO BARSANTI I V. D .M IC H E L A C C I U VIA GUIDO BANTI L I V. F. BARACCA A N NI VIA CARLO DEL PRETE I UCCI MUGNONE

I VIA DI PERETOLA V. F. GEMINIANI Beata Vergine Maria Regina della Pace R PIAZZA Universtà VIA DEI CAPP VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA VIA VALDINIEVOLE Di Firenze O DALMAZIA VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO Ingegneria PIAZZA VIALE GIOVAN BATTISTA MORGAGNI L V IA L E A L E S S A N D R O G U ID O N I VIA DEI VESPUCCI VALDELSA VIA FAENTINA

L V AI D IN O V O L I VIA SAN PIERO A QUARACCHI

A VIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II VIA BOLOGNESE V. GIARD. BIZZARRIA VIA VIRGILIO VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI RIFREDI . VIA CARLO DEL PRETE

A VIA O. VECCHI

V IA S A N D O M E N IC O TOSCANA VIA PISTOIESE . Palazzo di Giustizia di Firenze VIA DELLA TORRE DEGLI AGLI VIA DEL TERZOLLE V VIA TADDEO ALDEROTTI V. M . M E R C AT I

VIA DEI CAPPUCCINI VIA DI MONTUGHI VIADOTTO P.TE ALL'INDIANO TERZOLLE VIA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIALE DELLA V. M A L P I G H I ELAL PIAZZUOLA VIA PISTOIESE PIAZZA Convento Frati Cappuccini D V. M AT T I O L I V. C U O C O VIA A P.TTA DEL TERZOLLE V. C I N O D A P I S T O I A VIA ORAZIO VECCHI Parco San Donato PIAZZA DELL'ELBA G. G. ARCHI VIA FILIPPO CORRIDONI Chiesa Santa Maria Ausiliatrice Chiesa ASSAI San Francesco e Santa Chiara V I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I CARACCIOLO F.V. VIA PISTOIESE VIA SANDRO PERTINI VIA CARLO PISACANE Giardino V. B A R B E R I N O Del Museo V. F. T. BARACCHINI Stibbert V. LUISA SANFELI

VIALE CORSICA VIA GUGLIELMO M V AI D IN O V O L I PIAZZA UGO DI VIA DEL PONTE DI MEZZO V I A R O M A G N O S I PIAZZA

V IA F R A N C E S C O B A R A C C A E S E N G O L O B A I V Parco Pettini Burresi TOSCANA G. GIORGINI CE V. GUINIZZELLI VIA RIGUCCIO GALLUZZI

VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA VIA FAENTINA VIA PALA NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI VIA AND VIA DELL'ARCOVATA V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V AI V S. Antonio V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V da Padova al Romito PIETRO . F. COLA REA CO Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI LEOPOLDO TI S D'ORO RSALI T O R OI E M A N U E L EI TIBB V. VANNUCCI Centro Commerciale San Donato VIA PIERO CIRONI ERT V. F. G AI N N I V I A . G . F A B B R O N I VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio

VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DELLE FORBICI Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI G. BARTOLINI Villa Fabbricotti VIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R VIA TRIESTE TERZOLLE V I A G . B A R B E R A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA TINI PIAZZA MUGNONE VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA B R O N GIAMPIETRO VIA BEZZECCA ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi OFF V. F. CARACCIOLO V V I A L A VIA GAETANO MILANESI I A D I N O C O M PA G N I VIA SAN DONATO V I A T R E Parco Liceo V AI C G . U A S T I V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLE QUERCE Leonardo da Vinci V. O. DA PORDENONE VIA TRIESTE N IA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I Chiesa della B.V. M LARGO Madre della CESARE Orti del Parnaso Divina Provvidenza MUGNONE V IA M A R A G L IA N O CANTÙ

V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO VIA ANTONIO STOPPANI NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I PIAZZA LUDOVICO ANTONIO VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI V VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa MURATORI I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I Preziosissimo ANTI VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Sangue IA SAN DOMENICO MUGNONE U G I A V I VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI Stazione Firenze Statuto Giardino V I A F A E N T I PIAZZA V V. G. dell'Orticoltura VIALE FRANCESCO REDI VIA FRANCESCO BONAINI FEB OXR A I A V I Villa il TOMMASO PIAZZA Ventaglio VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C ALVA EDISON V. I. NIEVO VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA VIA BOLOGNESE DELLE CURE C O I L Chiesa della UIDO CAVALC Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT I N I VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA RFA NA C SEPC IVOR I PIAZZA VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI VIA V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I VNES AIRN EI N I V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI D EASLO TATV I U TO D I GIACOMO PIAZZA A L I VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N I A PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O XAMV XI A G GO I V E VITTORIA VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I DAV I ER LO M TO I G A V IA M A R A G L IA N O V. TOSCANELLI VIA DELLE FORBICI U VIA A. GARBASSO G VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI PIAZZA VIA DELLA CERNAIA A VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI I U VIA FILIPPO PACINI SE V. A. MEUCCI V GALILEO VIA ANTONIO COCCHI S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O T MUGNONE FERRARIS VIA DEI CAIROLI O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Istituto Comprensivo Statale R I V V I A D E L G ONNA TOS VIA LEONARDO FIBONACCI H Sacro Cuore VIALE ALESSANDROV. VOLTAG. B. AMICI I I VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI L U C A G OI R D A N O A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI LARGO C .A V I V. MAD PONTE ROSSO

V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E V. A. NICOLODI PIETRO D Golf Club Parco Di Firenze V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A CAPEI E

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VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON V. G. INGHIRAMI PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A NTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO V. A. PACINOTTI IGI SPO Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T RE DI SAN EOXL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O PA MARTIRI N S IACOPINO V. S. BOTTICELLI PIAZZA E A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI V AI M A S A C C I GIOVANNI G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA IA V IA C A S S IA ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO Giardino VIA D. MANTELLATE V AI V AI L E D E MI LI L E FARDELLA della Fortezza VI A DU DI TORREARSA P I V. G. MARCONI C E R V I A D E L A VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO VIA LUPI BONIF D’AO PRATELLINO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE C A P P O N VIA NINO BIXIO VIA CASTELFIDARDO

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L L Santa Maria a Ricorboli S S E VIA UGO FOSCOLO Chiesa di I C H E L VIA M A

San Salvatore al Monte N E L E

G VIA DELL’ERTA CANINA

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V I A R E I M S I C O I NLEONARDO Porta Romana VIA FRANCESCO BOCCHI L ONI

VIA UGO FOSCOLO M A E R B O S A

Chiese Parrocc. Corpus Domini VIA DEL BISARNO O

PIAZZALE VI

VIA ERTACANINA VIA DI PORTA ROMANA

O VIA UGUCCIONE DELLA FAGGIOLA E

Giardino della Scuderie Reali E Parco Della

V IA L E M A C H IA V E L L I Liceo Artistico L Cimitero Villa di VIA AUSTRIA Statale di Porta Romana I

Delle Porte Sante L Rusciano V. G. CAPONSACCHI PIAZZA L

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Parco della Carraia A VIA GRAN BRETAGNA ISLANDA

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Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte

V PIAZZA CARDINALE

VIA DEL BOBOLINO Palazzo dei Vescovi

ELIA DALLA COSTA VIA DEL BANDINO

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L VIA DELLE PORTE SANTE

Chiesa di San Piero in Palco A VIA UNIONE SOVIETICA

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VIA PORTOGALLO

V I A G I R A M O N T E RBOSA

V Parco della Rimembranza

A DI SAN LEONARDO L I L A I

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AV I VIA SENESE G A O BA EVN I ED ET OF R, N TI V I A E S

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VIALE MACHIAVELLI LLO V I A D I R I P O L I GA

VIASANTADI MARGHERITA AMONTICI

ARCETRI V. P. TACCA

A TORRE DEL PIAZZA

SCANDICCI Presidio Ospedaliero Firenze Centro Piero Palagi DI BADIA A RIPOLI O

VIA DELL E V I L A L I V AI S A N M A R C E L L NI O E L G A

VIA MARCO POLO

V AI B E N E D E T T O F O R T NI ,I

VIA DEl PARADISO

DUE STRADE

VIA MARCO POLO

V I A G I O V A N N I A G N E L L I

VIA GIOVANNI AGNELLI

VIA DI SANTA MARGHERITA A MONTICI

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