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The Watchdog , 8.i CI i I' , .. THE WATCHDOG Volume 2, No. 3 Summer, 1994 Guarding your interests.... You might say we took the dog for a walk. In fact, at the ference for people (makers, users, collectors, sellers, scholars, invitation of Mr. Glenn Le Beouf of Civil War Specialities, etc.) with expertise about or interest in the material culture of - Inc., we set up a tent promoting The Watchdog at the Wilder- the Civil War period. At this session knowledgeable folks could ness reenactment in May. Along with selling back issues, discuss the details of how things were made (well, OK, argue new subscriptions and renewals, we put up a display of items and yell if they want to), and maybe we could begin to arrive discussed in recent editions -both good and bad. The project at some conclusions about some of the accuracy or "authen- was very successful. We signed on lots of new subscribers ticity," issues that are of concern to Civil War living history and nearly sold out of all of our back issues. Most gratifying, enthusiasts. We would host the conference here in Kentucky, though, was meeting with so many friends of The Watchdog. either in Frankfort or at the Shaker Village at Pleasant Hill Now we can put smiling, enthusiastic faces with more of the next winter. There would be a fee, but we would try to keep names on our subscription rolls. Your expressions of support costs down, and, as usual, make no profit. If you think you and helpful suggestions were most sincerely appreciated. might be interested in coming to this session (which one wag Our tent was located in the merchants' area, and we weren't has already dubbed "the threadcounters' convention"), please sure how we would be received there. As it turned out, only take a moment to contact us. If there is enough interest to one merchant had any serious criticism of our publication. proceed, we will advise our readers of our plans in the autumn He thought it unfair that we recommend products and ven- edition of The Watchdog. dors, saying that to do so shows bias on our part. Well, we One update from our last issue: the address for Naugatuck never said anything about being impartial -historically ac- Novelty Co. (suppliers of Enfield snap caps) is: 29 1 Newton curate, yes, but not necessarily unbiased. If someone is mak- Rd., Northfield, CT 06778. ing a good product, we will call reenactors' attention to that product. To just tell how something ought to be made and not SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION tell readers where to find accurate reproductions when they The Wotchdog(1SSN 1067-2729)Is pubjished qusrterly by are available would be pretty pointless. Granted, we cannot The Watchdog, Inc., a non;profit corporation is the Com- review every product offered by every merchant, but no rea- monwealth of Kentucky. Stabscriptions me $7.00 annnally. sonable person would expect us to do that. We will carry on To subscribe, send name and address with check or money telling you where to find "the good stuff' as best we can. order to: me Wdtlchdog sometihe contributor to The Watchdog and constant guard- P.0, Box 4582 ian (one might say "watchdog") of l iving history vocabulary, Framkfmt, KY 4a604-4582 Mr. Tom Shaw of Minnesota, wrote to correct the use of the THE WAKHDIDG Accepts no advertising;. Contribntws and term "kersey blue" in our last edition's article about canteens. writers receive no comae~tionfor their adcles. AIL orofits Mr. Shaw pointed out that "kersey" refers to a type of fabric, are donated annually to battlefeld preservation organizations. the color of which varied. "Sky blue" is the appropriate, color;- Contributors are solely responsible for the accuracy of the re- descriptive term that should have been used. Mr. Shaw has search adfor the opinions expressed in their articles, offered us an article about kersey fabric, and we look forward Copyright 1W4+ All rights reserved. to publishing it. He was critical also of the use of the term "Model" to designate 19th century equipment types -a 20th Susan Lpms Hughes, Editor century practice inappropriate to our period of interest, which Tom Fupte, Associate Editor we will attempt to avoid henceforeth in The Watchdog. Gaff Walden, Adate We have an idea about which we would like to hear from Mike Cundrtgham, Asmiate Miter our readers. We thought The Watchdog might sponsor acon- A CHECKLIST FOR FEDERAL ISSUE TROUSERS Michael R. Cunningham, Ph.D The construction details of Federal regulation issue trou- to 314" at the vent. The waistband piece was cut 1 114" longer sers are difficult to discern from museum displays, because than the pants, with the extra length folded inward to reinforce uniform coats usually cover the most important features. Even the waist button. There was no top stitching on the waistband Montgomery C. Meigs' thirty eight official Quartermaster Gen- of issue trousers. Instead, the upper edge of the waistband eral photographs reveal little about trousers. Frederick Todd's was pressed down and secured by the cotton waist band lin- monumental study. Antericart Milirav Equipage 1851 - 1872, ing. The lining was wider than the wool waist band, and hand while correct on many details. was inaccurate on several trou- sewn top and bottom. ser features. Given the dearth of hard data, it was not surpris- 3. Vent. check that the vent is the proper depth, and has ing that an entire generation of reenactors marched to the sound provisions for adjustment. Both the rear of the waist band, of the guns in bogus britches. and a portion of the back seam, were split to form a vent. On With the onset of the 1990s, the underside of Federal uni- shallower vents, ranging from 1.75" to 2", the opening was forms began to receive some attention. The Mudsills' Paul adjustable using a string passing through a hole in either side McKee published an excellent study on issue trousers in The of the waistband. On vents that were 2.5" to 3.25" deep, an Cornpanv Wag in 199 1 . Also in 199 1, the Time-Life Echoes extra piece of material on the inside was added as reinforce- of Glory volume on Union equipment displayed 11 pairs of ment 1 " all around. Some issue trousers had a separate two issue trousers. Unfortunately, good information is not always piece belt, made of kersey 1 112" high, affixed 3" below the used. Three years later, the merchants' rows at major living waistband, which fastened with a patented two prong buckle. history events continue to be filled with racks of terrible trou- 4. Yoke. Check that the trousers have a high back and one sers, bad in cloth, color and cut. The following checklist is of the three proper yokes Federal issue trousers were cut to be designed to help you avoid getting fleeced the next time you about 3" higher in the rear than in the front. That height served are in the market for wool. to prevent the unsightly gap that otherwise formed in back 1. Cloth. Check that the wool is kersey twilled, heavy between the bottom of the shell jacket and the top of the trou- weight, and a greenish sky blue color. Issue trousers were sers when the soldier was mounted orsgatd. A large yoke --- --- -- - madSEithe siiiieh-eight woolused for overcoats between the waistband and the legs of the trousers provided and Veteran Reserve Corps jackets. The Quartermaster the extra height, although it required the use of suspenders for Manual of 1865 specified "2 yards 15 inches of 314 (.75 yards effective deployment. wide) sky blue woolen kersey, pure indigo dyed, free from Three types of yokes were used on issue trousers. Type 1 shoddy or flox, and the nap slightly raised, weighing 1 1 ounces was triangular in shape, with the base aligned with the rear per yard," seam, 4" in height. 'The point of the triangle on Type 1 may Kersey has a pronounced diagonal weave, .09" between touch the leg side seam, or it may stop about 1 " short. Type 2 ridges, but many mass produced reproduction trousers use was almost identical to Type I, except that the point of the cheaper wool, with a flat weave. Kersey was dyed with the triangle was cut off, and the yoke met the side of the leg with same indigo used for frock coats, and it was difficult to achieve a 1-2" seam. The third type of yoke did not extend to the leg consistency in the dilution. As a consequence, there was a seam. It consisted of two irregular rectangles on either side of great deal of variation from bolt to bolt but the color was the center seam. The effect of the two pieces was a pentagon consistently darker than baby blue and had a noticeable green- shape with the point at the vent. The insert was 6.5" high on ish cast. the center seam, 5.5" wide at the waistband, 4.5" high on the Requests for swatches were sent to 10 major uniform ven- leg side, and 6.5" wide at the bottom. The virtues of this type dors, and their variation in wool quality was remarkable. The of yoke were not clear, but they are found on trousers manu- better modern vendors have begun to approximate the color, factured by several contractors, including Anspach & Stanton. but they have not yet duplicated the weight and stiffness of 5. Fly. Check that the fly is narrow. The front of the left issue kersey. In comparison with the 8 issue examples avail- side of the fly was part of the pant leg, but was set off by a line able for inspection, County Cloth came closest to matching of stitching for the inner fly.
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