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Influence of Tencel/Cotton Blends on Knitted Fabric Performance

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Influence of Tencel/Cotton Blends on Knitted Fabric Performance Alexandria Engineering Journal (2016) 55, 2439–2447 HOSTED BY Alexandria University Alexandria Engineering Journal www.elsevier.com/locate/aej www.sciencedirect.com ORIGINAL ARTICLE Influence of Tencel/cotton blends on knitted fabric performance Alaa Arafa Badr a,*, Ahmed Hassanin a, Mahmood Moursey b a Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, Alexandria University, Egypt b National Institute for Standards ‘‘NIS”, Egypt Received 11 May 2015; revised 24 February 2016; accepted 29 February 2016 Available online 6 August 2016 KEYWORDS Abstract The requirements in terms of wearing comfort with sportswear, underwear and outer- Tencel; wear are widely linked to the use of new fibers. Today, Tencel fiber is one of the most important Lyocell; developments in regenerated cellulosic fiber. However, the relation between Tencel fiber properties Tencel-LF; and fabric characteristics has not been enough studied in the literature especially the influence of Tencel-STD; fiber materials on mechanical, Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) and absorption properties. Bamboo; Therefore, in this study, knitted fabric samples were manufactured with eight different yarns with Micro-modal two fabric types (single jersey and single jersey with Lycra). 30/1-Ne yarns from natural and regen- erated cellulosic fibers: 50% Tencel-LF/50% cotton, 67% Tencel-LF/33% cotton, 67% Tencel- STD/33% cotton, 70% bamboo/30% cotton, 100% bamboo, 100% Modal, 100% Micro-Modal and 100% cotton were employed. Then, all the produced fabrics were subjected to five cycles laun- dering and then flat dried. The results show that 67% Tencel-LF/33% cotton has more flexural rigidity and withdrawing handle force than 67% Tencel-STD/33% cotton fabric, while 67% Tencel-STD/33% cotton has a merit of durability during bursting test. Blending Egyptian cotton fibers with bamboo and Tencel as in 70/30% bamboo/cotton and 50/50% Tencel-LF/cotton improve UPF of the produced fabric. Ó 2016 Faculty of Engineering, Alexandria University. Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). 1. Introduction The natural and regenerated cellulose fibers maintain their reputation, where it provides apparels the best softness, Regenerated cellulose fibers are increasingly used in apparel strength and good appearance. production driven by the continuous improvement of their Cellulose fibers are included in the group of high comfort inherent qualities and introduction of new brands in the mar- fibers. One of the essential developments in new regenerated ” ket like TENCEL. This study aimed at studying and compar- cellulosic fiber technology is ‘‘TENCEL Fibre Process which ing Tencel fibers to other regenerated cellulosic fibers and their is the recorded trademark of Courtaulds Fibres Ltd. Company blends with cotton. that uses N-methyl-morphine-N-oxide (NMMO) that is used to dissolve cellulose. The generic name for Tencel is Lyocell [1]. The versatility of this fiber produces outstanding fabrics for * Corresponding author. both men’s and women’s casual and tailored wear, as well as Peer review under responsibility of Faculty of Engineering, Alexandria women lingerie. Furthermore, the reason for its current emer- University. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.aej.2016.02.031 1110-0168 Ó 2016 Faculty of Engineering, Alexandria University. Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). 2440 A.A. Badr et al. gence on the market is that Lyocell fiber has the advantage of Swelling of the porous regions of the fiber breaks the hydro- being used in a less contaminant spinning process than the one gen bonds connecting the crystalline units and forces them for conventional viscose [2–5]. away from each other. Mechanical action causes the external Lyocell is produced from wood pulp using a solvent spin- crystalline regions to break and peel away from the foremost ning process. More than 99% of the solvent is recycled within fiber. These peelings are called fibrils. The fibrillation effect the process, making the fiber production really environmen- can be applied to benefit from generating fabrics of good- tally accountable. The standard fiber produced is 1.4 dtex, looking appearance and attractive handle ‘‘peach skin effect” 38 mm, but it can be produced in a range of linear densities [10,11]. and staple lengths. The fiber has a smooth surface and a round Dziworska et al. [12] and Ibbett and Hsieh [2] studied the cross section, giving high luster in the raw state [6]. effect of liquid swelling on the structural rearrangement of The Tencel fiber has a circular cross-section and it has a Lyocell twill fabrics using different techniques. Fabrics with smooth surface as a result of its spinning process, where the Tencel fiber wefts were distinguished by superior crease resis- cellulosic fibers undergo quick and high penetration of solvent tance in comparison with fabrics with cotton and viscose wefts. which leads to consistent coagulation. The special spinning Furthermore, fabrics with Lyocell weft fiber showed greater air method of Tencel from conventional viscose fiber causes the permeability in comparison with fabrics with cotton and vis- formation of very long exclusive crystalline arrangement of cose wefts. its cellulose units which are extremely greatly oriented in the Bamboo fiber is a kind of regenerated cellulose fiber, gen- longitudinal axis of the fiber [7]. erated from bamboo pulp. Bamboo fiber is famous as the These factors cause significant differences in fiber proper- natural, green and eco-friendly textile material. Bamboo fiber ties. Tencel fibers have a high degree of crystallinity and are has some distinctive properties such as natural anti-bacteria composed of elementary fibrils, oriented nearly parallel to the and breathable. Bamboo fibers are also important for clothes fiber axis. Between some of the fibrils are long thin voids. and other textile applications such as filters and medical When the fiber as a whole is hydrated, swelling occurs, which [13,14]. changes the void size shape and orientation. This leaves While some good studies have been made to investigate and spaces in the structure across ‘‘filled amorphous regions” evaluate the properties of Tencel fiber blended yarns, there is a with which the crystalline units are connected by hydrogen lack of in depth study on the performance of Tencel fabric bonding [6,8]. properties. Consequently, the aim of this present study was Lyocell fibers are characterized by their high strength in to produce knitted fabrics with better comfort properties by both dry and wet states. Standard Lyocell fibers, in compar- utilizing the excellent characteristics of Tencel fibers. For this ison with other cellulose fibers (viscose), have a higher break- aim, we focus to explore some mechanical, ultraviolet protec- ing strength, either wet or dry. In the wet state, Lyocell keeps tion and moisture transport behavior of these knitted fabrics. 85% of its dry strength and is the only man-made cellulosic fiber which is stronger than cotton at the wet state. Also, enor- 2. Material and methods mous differences exist between Lyocell and cotton in both thermal transmission and vapor permeability [1,5]. 2.1. Material Lyocell fibers absorb moisture and have a high modulus that causes small shrinkage in water. Like all cellulose fibers, In this study, 30/1, 50% Tencel LF/50% cotton, 67% Tencel Lyocell fiber absorbs water perfectly and gives hygienic prop- LF/33% cotton, 67% Tencel STD/33% cotton, 70% bam- erties to textile products. Tencel fabrics and garments exhibit boo/30% cotton, 100% bamboo, 100% Modal, 100% Micro superior stability when washed [1,5,6]. Modal and 100% Egyptian cotton yarns are used to knit single Additionally, fabrics in Tencel are characterized by their jersey and single jersey with Lycra knitted fabrics. The proper- silky handle, distinctive drape and fluidity. Tencel is an out- ties of the Egyptian cotton Giza 88 used in this research work standing alternative to cotton and plays an important position are given in Table 1. Also, the properties of the Tencel, Bam- in the textile market for fashion wear, bed linen, towels, etc. boo, Modal and Micro Modal fibers are cleared in Table 2. Tencel can be successfully used in the production of underwear Moreover, Table 3 shows the properties of the yarns applied and apparels. They can also be used in technical textiles, non- in this work. wovens and foils. Tencel fibers show huge advantages in adapt- ing to the requirements of the end product both when spun 2.2. Fabric manufacture alone and in different blends particularly with cotton. The additions of Tencel to cotton have also a positive impact on yarn mechanical properties especially tenacity and elongation, The single jersey and single jersey with Lycra samples were and on spinning stability [1,5,9]. produced on the same knitting machine with 24 gauge, Santoni Textile fabrics made of Lyocell staple fibers undergo con- S.P.A., SJ-B model, 18-in. diameter, 54 feeders and with total trolled fibrillation and defibrillation by specific finishing pro- number of needles equal to 1356. cesses. Fibrillation is one of the mainly essential physical The loop length was kept constant at 2.8 mm value for all properties of Tencel fiber. Lyocell fibers are distinguished by the knitted samples. Also, the yarn input tension was kept con- their specific ability to fibrillate in a wet state under the impact stant at a value equal to 5 CN. of external mechanical effects. Fibrillation means the detach- After that, all fabric samples were subjected to a repeated ment of fibrils along the fabric surface of individual fibers laundering process (five cycles) under AATCC standard and swollen in water, which is caused by mechanical aggression then flat-dried.
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