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Kampala Und Umgebung Uganda Praktische Reisetipps A–Z Ruanda Uganda: Land und Leute/Tierwelt Ostafrikas Ostkongo Uganda: Kampala und Umgebung Anhang Uganda: Der Südwesten und die Virunga-Vulkane Atlas Uganda: Der Westen und uga_011 Foto: cl Foto: uga_011 das Ruwenzori-Gebirge Uganda: Der Norden und Nordosten Uganda: Der Osten und Mt. Elgon Christoph Lübbert Uganda und Ruanda „Uganda is from end to end one beautiful garden … It is the pearl of Africa.“ (Uganda ist ein einziger schöner Garten … Es ist die Perle Afrikas.) Winston Churchill 1908 – „My African Journey“ Impressum Christoph Lübbert REISE KNOW-HOW Uganda und Ruanda erschienen im REISE KNOW-HOW Verlag Peter Rump GmbH Osnabrücker Str. 79, 33649 Bielefeld © Peter Rump 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010 5., neu bearbeitete und komplett aktualisierte Auflage Sept. 2012 Alle Rechte vorbehalten. Gestaltung: Umschlag: G. Pawlak, P. Rump (Layout); M. Luck (Realisierung) Inhalt: G. Pawlak (Layout); M. Luck (Realisierung) Karten: C. Raisin, Th. Buri, der Verlag Fotonachweis: Ch. Lübbert (cl); A.-L. Ndakoze (aln); S. Jorke (sj); A. Klotz (ak) Titelfoto: S. Jorke (Löwin im Queen Elizabeth NP, Region Ishasha) Lektorat: M. Luck Druck und Bindung: Wilhelm & Adam, Heusenstamm ISBN 978-3-8317-2234-1 PRINTED IN GERMANY Dieses Buch ist erhältlich in jeder Buchhandlung Wir freuen uns über Kritik, Kommentare Deutschlands, Österreichs, der Niederlande, Belgiens und Ver besserungsvorschläge, gern auch und der Schweiz. Bitte informieren Sie Ihren per E-Mail an [email protected]. Buchhändler über folgende Bezugsadressen: Alle Informationen in diesem Buch sind vom Autor mit größter Sorgfalt gesammelt und vom Deutschland Lektorat des Verlages gewissenhaft Prolit Verlagsauslieferung GmbH bearbeitet und überprüft worden. Siemensstr. 16, D-35461 Fernwald (Annerod) sowie alle Barsortimente Da inhalt liche und sachliche Fehler nicht Schweiz ausgeschlossen werden können, erklärt der Ver- AVA Verlagsauslieferung AG lag, dass alle Angaben im Sinne der Postfach 27, CH-8910 Affoltern a.A. Produkthaftung ohne Garantie erfolgen und dass Österreich Verlag wie Autor keinerlei Verantwortung und Mohr-Morawa Buchvertrieb GmbH Haftung für inhaltliche und sachliche Sulzengasse 2, A-1230 Wien Fehler über nehmen. Niederlande, Belgien Willems Adventure Die Nennung von Firmen und ihren Produkten www.willemsadventure.nl und ihre Reihenfolge sind als Beispiel ohne Wertung gegenüber anderen anzusehen. Wer im Buchhandel trotzdem kein Glück hat, Qualitäts- und Quantitätsangaben sind rein sub- bekommt unsere Bücher auch über unseren jektive Einschätzungen des Autors und Büchershop im Internet: dienen keinesfalls der Bewerbung von Firmen www.reise-know-how.de oder Produkten. Christoph Lübbert uga_004 Foto: cl Foto: uga_004 Uganda Ruanda REISE KNOW-HOW im Internet Ein ganz persönliches Vorwort 7 Schimpansen und zahlreichen anderen Ein ganz Primaten bis hin zu den an Menschen persönliches Vorwort gewöhnten Berggorillas im Bwindi Im- penetrable National Park und im Vul- kangebiet der Virungas. Wie aus einer Wer eine Reise nach Uganda oder gar verwunschenen Zeit erscheint die Fa- Ruanda plant, wird dafür von vielen belwelt des Ruwenzori-Gebirges, des- Menschen noch immer Kopfschütteln sen bis zu 5109 m hohen Gipfel von und Unverständnis ernten. Gerade der bizarren Gletscher- und Eisformationen Gene ration der heute über 50-Jährigen ummantelt werden. ist Uganda noch immer als das Land Idi Die einst reichen Tierbestände haben Amins in Erinnerung und weckt Asso- durch Krieg und Wilderei stark gelitten; ziationen an Bürgerkrieg, Massenmord, Letzteres ist noch immer ein nicht zu Vertreibung und andere Gräueltaten. übersehendes Thema. Uganda kann Übersehen wird dabei leicht, dass sich daher nicht mit den großen Tierherden das ostafrikanische Land seit 1986 auf Tansanias oder Kenias konkurrieren. einem für Afrika ungewöhnlichen Kon- Doch nirgendwo sonst in Afrika beste- solidierungskurs befindet und sich an- hen so gute Möglichkeiten zur Erkun- schickt, wieder eine „Perle Afrikas“ zu dung tropischer Berg- und Waldland- werden, als die es Winston Churchill in schaften und zur Beobachtung von Pri- seinen Reiseaufzeichnungen einst rühm- maten wie hier. Das Land gilt unter Or- te. Auf dem Weg dorthin sind jedoch nithologen als das Vogelparadies in immer wieder Rückschläge zu verzeich- Afrika. Aufgrund der politischen Wirren nen, Überfälle und Bombenanschläge der jüngeren Vergangenheit hat sich (wie während der Fußball-WM 2010), bislang – verständlicherweise – kein Konflikte im Osten des Nachbarlandes Massentourismus mit den bekannten DR Kongo sowie Demokratiedefizite negativen Folgen entwickeln können. im Inland. Dennoch: Uganda ist mehr Viele ursprüngliche Afrika-Erlebnisse als eine Reise wert. Die Infrastruktur ist sind sozusagen garantiert. Die meisten nun auch im bislang weniger touristi- Menschen strahlen Optimismus und schen Norden modern und einladend. Hoffnung aus, denn nach über zwan- Die Sicherheitslage gilt inzwischen als zig Jahren Terror, Krieg und Vertrei- ausgezeichnet. bung richtet jeder in Uganda den Blick Die Vielfalt und Einzigartigkeit der in die Zukunft, friedlich und lebensfroh. ugandischen Natur ist der Hauptanzie- Reisende erfahren eine zuvorkommen- hungspunkt des Landes. Das Spektrum de und freundliche Behandlung, Eng- reicht von den Tierherden der Savanne lisch wird beinahe überall sehr gut ge- des Queen Elizabeth National Park sprochen. über die Seen im Zentralafrikanischen Das benachbarte Ruanda wird gern Grabenbruch, die spektakulären Fälle an eine Ugandareise „angehängt“, lohnt des Nils, dichte tropische Wälder mit aber durchaus auch separat bereist zu 8 Ein ganz persönliches Vorwort werden. In Ruanda hat nach den Kriegs- Kongo in absehbarer Zukunft stabilisie- ereignissen und Massakern des Jahres ren wird. 1994 eine allgemeine Stabilisierung Christoph Lübbert hat sich 1996 aus stattgefunden. Das Land ist seit 1998 Begeisterung für die Naturschönheiten wieder uneingeschränkt bereisbar, und der Region und angesichts des Mangels der Besuch der Berggorillas im Volca- an ausführlicher und aktueller Literatur noes National Park, der lang jährigen zur Zu sammenstellung eines Reisefüh- Wirkungsstätte Dian Fosseys, ist pro- rers über Uganda, Ruanda und Ost- blemlos möglich. Daneben bietet Ruan- Kongo/Zaire entschlossen, der zu nächst da einen sich interessant entwickelnden in kleiner Auflage im schleswig-holstei- „Kultur-Tourismus“ und atemberauben- nischen Stein-Verlag erschien. Der Bür- de landschaftliche Reize zwischen den gerkrieg in Kongo/Zaire und diverse sanften Grassavannen des Akagera Na- Schreckensmeldungen aus Uganda und tional Park, dem tropischen Bergregen- Ruanda ließen den Tourismus in dieser wald Nyungwe mit Hunderten Vogelar- Region Afrikas bereits kurz nach Er- ten und interessanten Primaten sowie scheinen des Buches komplett einbre- dem Lake Kivu mit Erfolg versprechen- chen und verhinderten eine längerfristi- den neuen Tourismusattraktionen im ge Fortführung des Buchprojekts. Ende Westen des kleinen Landes. 2003 startete der zweite Versuch eines Die ruandische und auch ostkongole- umfassenden Reiseführers über Ugan- sische Region um den Lake Kivu mit ih- da und Ruanda, eingebettet in das Afri- rer wunderschönen Berg- und Seen- ka-Programm der renommierten Ver- landschaft hat bis heute mit den ver- lagsgruppe REISE KNOW-HOW. Vier Auf- heerenden Auswirkungen der Ge- lagen sind bislang auf dem Markt; der schehnisse von 1994 zu kämpfen, an anschwellende Besucherstrom und das die sich eine Serie von Bürgerkriegs- damit verbundene große Interesse an handlungen mit neuen humanitären dem praktischen und detailliert recher- Desastern und Flüchtlingsszenarien an- chierten Reiseführer zeigen eine begrü - geschlossen hatte. Gesellschaftlich, mo- ßenswerte Reisetendenz auch in diese ralisch und ökonomisch zerrüttet, kam Länder Ostafrikas. der einst blühende Tourismus gänzlich Sie halten jetzt das gemeinsam von zum Erliegen. Der kongolesische Virun- Christoph Lübbert und Mitarbeiterinnen ga National Park ist noch immer prak- im Frühjahr/Sommer 2012 komplett tisch kaum bereisbar, hingegen ist der überarbeitete Buch in Händen. Es wen- weniger bekannte Kahuzi-Biéga Natio- det sich in erster Linie an individuell nal Park mit seinen östlichen Flachland- Reisende, aber auch an Reisende, die gorillas wieder gut zu besuchen; ent- mit einem Reiseveranstalter eine Privat - ferntere Ziele im Kongobecken sind je- reise unternehmen sowie an Teilneh- doch noch immer nur unter unvorher- mer von Kleingruppenreisen. sehbaren Risiken zu erreichen. Es bleibt Der Schwerpunkt liegt eindeutig auf zu hoffen, dass sich die Situation im der faszinierenden Natur Ugandas und Ein ganz persönliches Vorwort 9 Ruandas, aber was wäre die Region oh- stadt Kampala vorgestellt (im Uhrzei- ne ihre freundlichen Bewohner? Natür- gersinn von Westen nach Osten). Das lich gibt es daher auch Neugier we - Kapitel „Unterwegs in Ruanda“ wid- ckende Informationen zu Mensch(en), met sich in ähnlicher Weise den touristi- Kunst und Kultur(en). schen Regionen dieses Landes ausge- Die Geschwindigkeit, mit der sich ge- hend von der Hauptstadt Kigali. rade Afrika entwickelt, verändert vieles Am Ende des Buches finden sich der von heute auf morgen. Wir bitten Sie Anhang (Literatur, Karten, Reise-Ge- daher herzlichst, Hinweise und Anre- sundheitsinformationen, Tiernamenslis - gungen sowie Verbesserungsvorschlä- te, Register) sowie ein 20-seitiger At- ge an den Verlag zu senden. las. Auf die Karten dort ebenso wie auf die sonstigen Karten im Buch wird in Im Sommer 2012 den Kopfzeilen und nach
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